Salon Magazine, October 2018

C U T T I NG E DGE : T I P S FOR F R I NGE

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T H I N N I NG H A I R S OLU T ION S

C ON T E S SA 30 SE M I-F I NA L IST S

Higher Learning OCTOBER 2018

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All rights reserved. 2018

FROM SOFT TO BOLD.

CREATE GLOSSY REDS WITH SHADES EQ

Whether it’s soft burgundy, subtle strawberry, or Rocket Fire red, Shades EQ is your secret weapon for creating incredible glossy red shades. Our red and copper palette is now bigger and better than ever before—and for the first time includes shades formulated with the super potent R5 red dye—so you have the tools you need to slay with the full spectrum of spicy shades. #GLOSSITUP

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October 2018 34 F E AT U R E

Freedom to Educate Freestyle

We chatted with two top educators for their tips on becoming a successful freelance educator.

36 F E AT U R E

Through Thick and Thin

We tackle the top five thinning hair challenges, with expert tips on how to solve them.

38 F E AT U R E

Fringe Benefits

54 CONTE SSA 2 9 F I N A L I S T, CIVELLO S A L O N & S PA , T O RO N T O

Time to go out with a bang this season! Find out how a little fringe can go a long way—for your client’s look and your business.

40 F E AT U R E

“Education is extremely important, not only for hairstylists but also consumers. People want to know what they are putting in their hair.”

Master Craftsmanship

Ever wonder what it takes to compete on a global stage?

We spoke with Canada’s Raffaele Fiorante about his experience competing in Revlon Professional’s Style Masters competition.

42 I N S P I R AT I O N

Collections

Ulta Beauty Pro Team; Melissa Duguay; Danielle Keasling; Damien Rinaldo; Mark Woolley and the Electric Art Team; Ali Haller; Civello Salon & Spa; Natalia Petcu; Julie Vriesinga; Victoria Tsinokas

— CARMEN TAL, CO-FOUNDER OF MOROCCANOIL ON THE COVER: HAIR: DAMIEN RINALDO, BORIS THE CUTTERY, AUSTRALIA, MAKEUP: BELINDA ZOLLO, STYLING: ELLA MURPHY, PHOTO: ANDREW O’TOOLE salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 7

10

Editor’s Letter

12

66

Publisher’s Note

C O N T E S S A GA L L E RY

Eloise Chiew

Learn about the talent behind this impressive New Hairstylist finalist collection.

17 W H AT ’ S N E W

Hairlines

We’re embracing change this season with the latest care, styling and finishing product launches.

67 BUSINESS

50 MARK WO O L L E Y AND THE ELECTR IC A RT TE A M , U. K .

Educating the Client

While you may be all about your own professional development, it’s time to pay it forward. Find out how teaching your clients can help you reap major rewards.

68 P RO F I L E

Striking Gold

A candid conversation with Moroccanoil co-founder, Carmen Tal.

70 INTER IORS

This award-winning salon has created an experiential environment for its hairstylists and guests.

72 W H AT ’ S H A P P E N I N G

Events + Scoop

74 SA LON STOR IE S

Spreading the Love

44 CONTE SSA 29 F I N A L I S T, MELISSA D U G UAY; ECCENTR IC H A IR STUDIO, MONCTON, N.B.

8 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

Sharing stories from you— our readers—about the past 25 years.

CND, SHELLAC and VINYLUX are trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc. ©2018 Creative Nail Design, Inc. Nails by Tracey Lee.

NIGHT MOVES Light Up The Night.

Follow us @CNDCanada

cnd.com/find-distributor

Bellini

After Hours

Soirée Strut

CHOICE AWARDS

WINNER 2018

Kiss of Fire

READER’S Kiss of Fire

Kiss of Fire

CND™ SHELLAC™ & CND™ VINYLUX™. NEW SHIMMERING SHADES.

Editor’s Letter —

DEVOTED TO BEAUTY WHILE BEAUTY IS BEING CREATED.

Styling mid-length hair is hard; even harder when it’s your own hair. I know this because for the past couple of years, I have grown out my once-cropped cut to a mid-length lob that lands somewhere between my chin and shoulders. My quest for a well-styled look that I can do on my own (without doing much!) is never-ending—and I’m sure this sounds like many of your clients.

As it turns out, sharing hairstyling know-how is something that more salons are now offering their clients as an added service. In some salons, clients are even asked to bring their own blowdryers and styling tools to appointments. So, when I saw Contessa winner, Michelle Finlayson offering styling tips on CityLine, along with step-by-step tips on her Instagram feed, I knew she could help.

Navigating our cross-country distance and busy schedules, Michelle was all in for sharing a few of her tricks, and I crossed my fingers in hopes that— with enough practice—even I could recreate a version of a side twist and braid combination.

While you might think holding your best hairstyling secrets close will keep your clients coming back, these days sharing is key. In fact, Michelle says that even when she has only five minutes at the end of an appointment, she’ll offer up a style tip or two that a client can use when they’re at home. It’s all about offering simple solutions that clients can use to feel salon-beautiful and remind them why they should come back to you next time.

THE ORIGINAL THERMAL HIGHLIGHTING STRIPS SEE THEM IN ACTION! /KWICKWAY

Exclusive Canadian Distributor

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Anna Lee Boschetto Editor-in-Chief

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10 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 SalonMAG_KWverti2.indd 1

2018-09-11 9:54 AM

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

Tricks of the Trade

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Salon Magazine ISSN 1489-7059, VOLUME 27, ISSUE 8 SALONMAGAZINE.CA EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Anna Lee Boschetto annalee@salonmagazine.ca

Publisher’s Note —

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Stephanie Gallant stephanie@salonmagazine.ca EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH) Yasmin Grothé yasmin@salonmagazine.ca MANAGING EDITOR Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca DIGITAL EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lucy Mazzucco lucy@salonmagazine.ca COPY EDITOR Liz Bruckner

GROUP PUBLISHER Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca VICE-PRESIDENT STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS Greg Robins greg@salonmagazine.ca

The Contessa Effect

SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jordan Miandro jordan@salonmagazine.ca

As we lead up to the 30th anniversary of the Contessa Awards, it’s an exciting time for our team at Salon. This year, during our live judging, one of the judges shared with me how much he enjoyed the experience. Not only was the actual judging of the collections enjoyable, he said, but so was spending time with other beauty pros and getting to know new people.

When you think about it, the Contessa Awards create a ripple energy effect.

Psychology Today explains this phenomenon as “concentric circles of influence that may affect others for years, even generations,” and as we know in the day-to-day life of salon work, we can all use some inspiration. My advice as the gala night approaches?

Why not be part of this ripple effect and join in on the celebration? It’s the perfect opportunity to gather your salon team, dress up and get completely inspired.

One of my favourite things to hear from people who experience this event for the first time is that they had no idea how big and beautiful our industry is. And though I’m slightly biased, I truly believe there’s no better way to introduce new, young staff to a lifelong career in hairdressing, or to spark creativity in someone with a competitive spirit. Time and time again, I’ve also seen what can happen when beauty pros who work independently attend the Contessas, meet new people, see old friends, and really build their network.

This year, beyond our 30th anniversary, we have plenty more to celebrate. Twentythree winners will be announced at the gala dinner taking place on November 4 in Toronto at the Westin Harbour Castle Conference Centre, with our finalists’ gallery to be revealed earlier, during the cocktail party. And, of course, our notorious and much-loved Contessa after-party celebrations are slated to kick off once the awards ceremony wraps. Believe me when I say you don’t want to miss any of it!

So, what are you waiting for? Come join us for the full Contessa experience and create your own Contessa effect!

OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca

12 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca

Salon Magazine 183 Bathurst Street Suite 202, Toronto, ON, M5T 2R7 T. 416.869.3131 F. 416.869.3008

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Address Changes helpdesk@subscriptions.salon or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10 Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANACARREIRO

Laura Dunphy Publisher

PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

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Please recycle where Printed on recyclable paperPRINTED IN CANADA facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

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PURE CAVIAR. PURE STRENGTH.

Reduce breakage by up to 99%* for hair transformation after just one use.

www.alternahaircare.com

© Alterna Holdings Corp. *Based on a clinical study using the CAVIAR Anti-Aging Restructuring Bond Repair regimen vs untreated hair.

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Rocking the Runway!

D M IT O MIT

E

We went behind the scenes at Toronto Fashion Week to see some of the styles and trends that walked the runway this season. Get inspired to recreate some of the looks by visiting SalonMagazine.ca.

N

AD

ON

E

Contessa Turns 30!

The Contessa Awards is celebrating a milestone this year—its 30th anniversary! Want a chance to win two tickets to the awards, plus travel and hotel accommodations for the night? Matrix and Salon are giving this amazing prize to one lucky winner!

Visit SalonMagazine.ca to find out more!

A Trip Through the Archives Whether you’re looking to get inspired for your next hairstyle or photo shoot, you’ll be sure to find it in SalonMagazine.ca’s collection archives.

14 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: GEORGE PIMENTAL; MATRIX; HAIR: DEE PARKER ATTWOOD, MAKEUP: LIZ JENKINSON STYLING: DAN RYAN, PHOTO: KARLA MAJNARIC

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The new Professional edition Only at dysoncanada.ca/stylist #dysonprohair

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THICKER, FULLER HEALTHIER LOOKING HAIR ALL STARTS ON THE INSIDE.

©2018 Bosley, Inc. Beverly Hills, CA 90212 | All Rights Reserved. | Printed for Scientific Hair Research, LLC.

New Enhanced-Formula Vitality Supplements for Men & Women Bosley Professional Strength introduces two new specifically targeted supplement formulas. Precisely crafted for the individual and unique needs of men and women with ingredients targeted to support optimal scalp health and fuller, thicker, healthier-looking hair.

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COLOUR: KATE REID FOR KEVIN.MURPHY, HAIR & MAKEUP: LUCIE STAUFF, STYLING: OLIVIA FOULDS, PHOTO: LUIS MURPHY

➣

THE LATEST PRODUCT LAUNCHES, LINE EXTENSIONS AND STYLES TO SPARK YOUR CREATIVE ENERGY.

In the brand’s Candy Color Girls collection, Kevin.

Murphy’s Color.Me design director Kate Reid enhanced the models’ inner beauty by creating looks using techniques and tones personalized for each one. For this look, Reid enhanced new growth using zone toning.

“The major movement behind Candy Color Girls is towards beige tones with a fusion of pastel edges that helps to blend commercial fashion,” she says. “Today is all about refinement—it’s what sets you apart and makes expensivelooking hair colour.”

Want more? See the full collection at SalonMagazine.ca. salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 17

FOOD FOR H A IR

Redken Color Extend Vinegar Rinse

Photo Finish Find out how Fujifilm and the Technical University of Dresden collaborated with Goldwell on its latest hair colour innovation.

No, it’s not edible, but this new vinegar rinse is like food for your hair since it rebalances hair’s pH level while boosting colour vibrancy and shine.

And unlike regular vinegar, the Color Extend Vinegar Rinse has been designed for hair and scalp comfort.

Goldwell has unveiled its @Pure Pigments—six direct-dye colour additives that can be combined with Goldwell’s Topchic, Colorance and Nectaya for endless colour creations.

How? Goldwell worked with Fujifilm and the Technical University of Dresden to develop HD3 Technology, which features a new range of direct dye molecules, inspired by highdefinition photographic dyes. The technology creates multi-dimensional, long-lasting results with superior light reflection and shine (think of light travelling through a prism).

➣

Effortlessly Cool Get effortless texture with Sebastian Professional’s latest product lineup and collection.

➣

This texturizing trio includes a colour-safe shampoo, conditioner and texturizing spray to help simplify your client’s styling routine. “Busy fashionistas on-the-go can look as done or undone as they want—as perfectly messy as they need to be—without ever having to waste a second of their jampacked day on unnecessary styling. We couldn’t be prouder of these products.” — Shay Dempsey, artistic director for Sebastian Professional.

Triple Threat Three more reasons to love Schwarzkopf Professional’s BlondMe Blonde Lifting Shades.

What’s New?

Three new shades have been added to Schwarzkopf Professional’s BlondeMe Bond Enforcing Blonde Lifting range, expanding its selection to a total of six shades.

Benefits:

Offers up to five levels of lift and includes the brand’s integrating bonding technology to balance hair’s pH level, create new bonds and strengthen and protect existing ones. Plus, they offer long-lasting neutralization for superior blonde results.

18 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

PHOTOS: REDKEN, GOLDWELL, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL

Hairlines — NEWS

➣

Discover the power of Joico’s Color Intensity Pearl Pastel.

Take your pastel shades to the next level with this semi-permanent, pearlescent palette, including Rose Gold, Blush, Violet Pearl and Silver Ice.

Nourishes and protects hair (thanks to the brand’s Quadramine Complex!)

—

No developer needed

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Low commitment (lasts up to 10 shampoos!)

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Shades are intermixable

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Colour doesn’t bleed (ideal for colour melting!)

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Fades on tone

D O N ’ T S AY I T, S P R AY I T !

Embrace your artistic side with the new KMS StyleColor.

This temporary colour spray is available in five tones to be just as flexible with your hair colour as your makeup and wardrobe! From dusky blonde and frosted brown to vintage blush and iced concrete, StyleColor is visible on dark and light tones, is waterproof, and removable with shampoo.

Getting to the Root of It

1. It’s a Milestone!

If you haven’t noticed, we’re celebrating the Contessas’ 30th anniversary! Hint: It’s party time! And while every year is a celebration, this year is sure to be for the record books!

2. Get Your Swag On Not only does the Contessa Awards give you a reason to buy a new outfit or break out an oldie-but-a-goodie, we give each attendee a swag bag filled with products worth more than $500!

3. Find Out the Winners First Be amongst the audience that hears and sees the winners first, with all the raw emotion a Contessa award win brings: the laughs, the hugs, the tears, etc.

4. Meet Cool People We must say, the Contessas draw quite the crowd. From homegrown talent to international icons, if you’ve ever wanted to mingle with the biggest and best in the industry, there’s no place else to be. And, you can meet us—the Salon team—in person!

To buy tickets, visit SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa.

Don’t delay—prices go up on October 16!

What it is: This dynamic duo is designed to help men with fine or thinning hair improve its appearance.

What it Does: Fortifiying Shampoo—Used daily, this shampoo removes buildup, cleanses and conditions the scalp and helps increase hair’s volume.

20 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

Let’s face it: There are a lot more reasons to attend the annual Contessa Awards gala than not.

But we’ve rounded up our top five favourites for why you’ve just GOT to be there!

5. Party it Up! After the show is the after-party, and the Contessa Awards’ postbash is always a blast. Unwind and toast with us!

Improve hair from the inside out with American Crew’s Fortifying Shampoo and Scalp Treatment.

Fortifying Scalp Treatment—This fast-absorbing, leave-in treatment is formulated with keratin amino acids and vegetable proteins to thicken and strengthen hair beginning at the scalp, while improving flexibility and volume without weighing hair down.

5 Reasons Why You Don’t Want to Miss the Contessa 30 Gala!

WHEN USED TOGETHER, IT CAN REDUCE BREAKAGE BY UP TO 80 PER CENT!

PLUS, SALON IS PARTNERING WITH MATRIX TO GET YOU #CONTESSAREADY! ENTER FOR A CHANCE TO WIN A TRIP TO TORONTO TO ATTEND THE 30TH ANNUAL CONTESSA AWARDS (INCLUDING FLIGHT AND ACCOMMODATIONS!) FIND OUT MORE AT SALONMAGAZINE.CA!

PHOTOS: JOICO, KMS, AMERICAN CREW

Hairlines — NEWS

Two for One

—

ICONIC

EXTENSIONS

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N OW O FFERIN G GL TA P E S

LUXURY TAPE-IN HAIR EXTENSIONS

Introduce the luxury of Great Lengths to a broader client base with GL Tapes. For information on purchasing GL Tapes please contact info@greatlengthscanada.com or visit:

Call 1-800-461-9302 Ext. 306 / 307 W W W.GRE ATLEN GTHSC ANADA .CO M #greatlength scanada

Hairlines — NEWS

How to Learn, Grow Your Business and Get Rewarded!

With an exciting new relaunch, Redken has unveiled its new Club 5th Avenue (C5A) business development program. Now, the program includes even more benefits for its members.

I N S TA N T E F F E C T

Aloxxi InstaBoost Conditioning Color Masques Refresh or tone natural or previously coloured hair with one of these eight new masques. With fun, extra-pigmented colours like Aquamarine Dream, Copper Cabana and Fireball Red, the masques are intermixable and last 10 to 15 washes.

Expanding its tier levels, the points system ranges from seven points per dollar to 20 points per dollar, in which salons can earn from each of their Redken purchases. The good news: C5A is open to all salons that carry Redken—including salons that also carry other brands!

Along with customized education programs, free products, merchandising tools, and travel opportunities for educational development, C5A offers incentives like the Color Accelerator, which allows its members to earn 50 per cent more points on all colour purchases. “Our salon has always had a value system based on quality education for our stylists,” says Fady Assaad, owner of Hair Junkie salon in Ottawa. “Redken’s C5A program has always mirrored our values by providing quality education with the flexibility to assist with our salon’s needs.”

For more information, visit c5a.redken.ca.

POWERED BY: CDP Complex, which conditions, deposits and protects, along with sugar beet extract for nourishing, repairing, hydrating and enhancing shine, sunflower seed oil for UVA/ UVB protection and Calendula Officinalis extract for protection from blue light.

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TOOLBOX

“I’ve always liked the look of a metal dryer. When they showed up in salons in the ’80s and ’90s, they looked great but were really impractical; they were heavy, noisy and the housing got really hot. The SteelFX has really addressed those issues. It’s incredibly light, quiet, powerful and the housing stays cool, but the best part is how good you look holding it!”

— DON WYATT, NATIONAL DIRECTOR OF SHOWS AND EDUCATION FOR DANNYCO

22 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

— |

| Built-in ion generator

Offers up to 50 per cent faster drying

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Removable, noise-reducing filter cancels out up to 50 per cent more noise than other professional dryers

3 heat settings and 2 speed settings, including a cool shot button

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Includes a 9-foot power cord and removable concentrator nozzle

PHOTOS: ALOXXI, DANNYCO

BaBylissPRO SteelFX Stainless Steel Hairdryer

Ferrari-designed engine brushless motor lasts up to 10,000 hours (up to five times longer than other motors)

No. 1 GLOBALLY SELLING SALON BRAND FOR THICKER, FULLER-LOOKING HAIR* No. 1 GLOBALLY SELLING SALON BRAND FOR THICKER, FULLER-LOOKING HAIR* * Value Data Kline & Company THE N°11 SALON BRAND FOR THICKER, FULLER HAIR 2

* Value Data Kline & Company

No. 1

No. 1

GLOBALLY SELLING SALON BRAND FOR

GLOBALLY SELLING SALON BRAND FOR

THICKER, FULLER

THICKER, FULLER-LOOKING HAIR*

LOOKING HAIR*

*Value Data Kline & Company

* Value Data Kline & Company

NOW WITH NEW 3-PART SYSTEMS FOR THICKER, 2X FULLER* HAIR. SUPPORTED BY

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value data Kline & Company * vs. hair treated with a 24 h average amount of sebum

Distr. by THE WELLA CORPORATION, WOODLAND HILLS, CA 91367 1-800-935-5273 (USA) 1-800-267-1962 (Canada)

Man Made

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1922 by J.M. Keune is bringing back classic barbering with a twist.

10 haircare products including shampoos, conditioners and treatments

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Five stylers with a range of finishes from wet to matte

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Five hair colour shades specifically designed for men

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Three grooming products for superior shaving and beard maintenance

Paying homage to founder Jan Keune and his familyowned business, 1922 by J.M. Keune offers a curated range of professional, high-quality haircare, styling, grooming and colour essentials to give barbers and stylists everything they need to help men look their best.

The brand is holding a two-day cutting and styling seminar on October 21-22 at the Keune Advanced Academy in Atlanta. For more information, visit keuneeducation.com.

➣

Crown Jewels Shine bright like a diamond (or a ruby or sapphire) with Celeb Luxury’s Gem Lites Colorditioner with BondFix. Who doesn’t love a little sparkle? And when it comes to hair, getting colour to shine is #everything. Now, even clients experiencing dullness and breakage can maintain colour while improving hair’s condition. Celeb Luxury’s 10 Gem Lites Colorditioner shades offer a wide range of blonde, red and brown tones to help you offer a more personalized approach for prolonging colour’s longevity and vibrancy.

With the addition of the brand’s BondFix, the Colorditioners can help reverse hair’s degradation and improve its strength and manageability.

24 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

INGR EDIENT 101

ABBA Complete All-in-One LeaveIn Spray With vegan, plant-based ingredients, ABBA introduces its latest launch that will help hair feel and look good from the inside out.

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ProQuinoa Complex: Hydrolyzed quinoa, barley and soy breathe new life into damaged hair while locking in moisture and shielding hair from UV rays and environmental stressors.

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Abyssinian Oil: Packed with essential fatty acids to reduce breakage and provide thermal protection.

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Coconut Oil: Restores hair’s natural proteins while conditioning, hydrating and sealing the cuticle.

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Watermelon Seed Oil: Adds weightless moisture to help reduce frizz.

PHOTOS: KEUNE, HOTHEADS, RUSKPRO, KÉRASTASE, ABBA, CELEB LUXURY

Hairlines — NEWS

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Hairlines — NEWS

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Includes the brand’s CDEpHlex3 Technology to protect hair from damage and environmental stressors!

Go Pro

Power up with RUSKPRO’s highperformance collection.

Single Life

This 10-piece product lineup offers a complete haircare, styling and finishing range, from cleansing and hydrating hair, to repairing damage, to defining and enhancing texture.

Five Reasons to Love the New Hotheads Hair Extensions Single Sided Tape!

1 Creates softer blends with a lightweight feel and less visibility.

GO LONG

Kérastase Résistance Extentioniste

2 Perfect for fine-haired clients who want more volume and length.

3 Adds a pop of colour for clients who want to give a new shade a test-drive without the commitment.

4 Allows even more customization for your client’s specific hair needs.

5 Uses the Hotheads Signature Extension System (100 per cent Remy human hair and medical-grade adhesive).

Say so long to cropped tops and hello to longer lengths!

That’s right, this four-piece haircare system is designed to help clients mend damage so their hair can achieve—and sustain—a longer length.

| Bain (shampoo), Fondant (conditioner) and Masque include Kérastase’s Creatine R Complex, which reinforces the hair’s internal structure while providing recovery of the hair fibre.

| Serum Extensioniste is a scalp and hair serum with ceramides, including taurine—an amino acid that protects the hair follicle while balancing the scalp.

salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 25

D E C O BY D E S I G N

B R E A K I N G T H RO U G H

Hairlines — NAILS

ORLY’s GelFX Builder in a Bottle is a game-changer for nail enhancements.

CND Run wild this season with Field Fox, now available in CND Shellac Luxe.

Skip the traditional separate pots and brushes! This soak-off sculpting gel is applied just like a soft gel, yet it wears like a hard gel. The all-in-one, brush-on formula allows nails techs to quickly sculpt nails without the mess. And for clients, that means a more natural looking result, with flexible strength and no nail damage.

➣ S PA R K L E A N D S H I N E

Evo by Bio Sculpture’s Purple Collection celebrates nail techs.

Bio Sculpture Gel recently held a contest that gave nail techs the opportunity to name 12 of the brand’s shades. And two Canadians reigned supreme!

The Purple Collection features a vibrant range of six purple and pink hues, including Elegancia, a royal indigo named by Francine Ouellet of Edmundston, N.B., and Lory, a pink metallic glitter named by Lorraine Cormier of Ottawa. The collection celebrates the artistry of nails with its fun and feminine colours, which are great for making the most of what’s left of this year’s Ultra-Violet Pantone Color of the Year trend!

OPI Envy the Adventure from The Nutcracker and Four Realms line gives us #allthefeels.

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SpaRitual Get cozy this season with Here & Now, a decadent range of hues like Good Company.

Find out which celebrities showed up and showed out with their manicures, giving us some major #nailinspo for the season.

1 Jennifer Lopez For the 2018 MTV Video Music Awards, celebrity manicurist and OPI global ambassador Tom Bachik used the brand’s Alpine Snow, topped with Chrome Effects in Tin Man Can for an ultra-chromed out effect.

26 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

2 Rita Ora To complement her Jean Paul Gaultier gown, nail artist Naomi Yasuda created a swirldesign with negative space.

3 Blake Lively Celebrity “nail stylist” Elle created art-deco inspired nails with a hint of metallic for a Hollywood glam look.

Entity Get a Parisian chic look with Luxe La Femme, including deep mauve Glimmer En Vogue.

PHOTOS: ORLY, CND, OPI, MORGAN TAYLOR, SPARITUAL, ENTITY, INSTAGRAM.COM; BIO SCULPTURE, BETHANY FLIGHT; ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN

Morgan Taylor Let your client’s inner animal roar with Wild Safari’s shades like No Sudden Mauves.

DIPPING POWDERS HAVE BECOME INCREASINGLY POPULAR, ESPECIALLY WITH THE POWER OF SOCIAL MEDIA. FIND OUT HOW YOU CAN TURN THIS TREND INTO A REAL MONEYMAKER FOR YOUR SALON.

Take a Dip! What are Dipping Powders?

An alternative to traditional nail enhancements, dipping powders are acrylic powders used with a resin and activator instead of monomer. No monomer = no harsh odour!

While its removal is similar to gel polish, dipping powders don’t require curing with a lamp. “It’s in between your gel polish manicure and your hard gel enhancements,” says Bethany Flight, an educator for Artistic Nail Design based in Conception Bay South, Nfld. “It’s stronger than gel polish with the ability to create extensions, but can still be soaked off, unlike hard gels.”

What They Can Do for Clients The good news with dipping powders is that they can also be applied on natural nails. “It’s made to work on natural nails that are quite strong,” says Marie-Eve Roy, an OPI educator based in Sherbrooke, Que. “Sometimes, gel or acrylic may not work well with some clients. Thankfully, dipping powders can offer similar results as other nail enhancements.” OPI’s Powder Perfection offers 50 shades of dipping powders, including the brand’s most iconic shades.

Dipping powders can also be combined with gel polish to easily allow you to offer nail art. “We can apply the gel colour and apply clear dipping powder with two to three coats. Then, we can apply whatever gel shade the clients wants to have,” says Roy.

Hairlines — NAILS TECH

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EXPERT TIP IT’S IMPORTANT TO WORK EFFICIENTLY WITH DIPPING POWDERS, SAYS BETHANY FLIGHT, EDUCATOR FOR ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN. “HAVE YOUR DIP JAR OPEN AND READY TO GO. APPLY RESIN TO ONE NAIL AND DIP RIGHT AWAY. DON’T APPLY BASE TO ALL FIVE FINGERS BECAUSE YOUR RESIN WILL HAVE ALREADY BEGUN TO CURE AND WILL LEAVE YOU WITH PATCHY AND UNEVEN DIPS.”

“For me, it’s for the client that doesn’t want extra length or the commitment of hard gels, but still needs that little bit of extra strength. It also works well for a one-time client who wants nail extensions for an occasion,” adds Flight.

Artistic Nail Design’s The Perfect Dip Starter Kit has everything you need to get started on your dipping powder journey: Prep, Base Coat, Activator, Top Coat, Brush Restorer, Dip Dish, Clear Dip Powder and a complimentary colour of your choice.

Visit SalonMagazine.ca for more dipping powder tips and tutorials.

What They Can Do for You While it seems that some salons have moved away from offering traditional enhancements, dipping powders eliminate the pesky odour that has bothered nail techs and clients for ages!

They’re also great for building nail structure. “It can be built with a clear powder before you even start applying all over colour,” says Flight. “Once the nail is prepped and ready, instead of applying your base resin to the whole nail, apply a thin strip from the centre to the free edge with the narrow side of your brush, and dip in clear powder. Then, on top of that initial strip, use the wide flat side of your brush to make a wider section of base and dip in clear. What that’s going to do is leave the bulk of your powder at the centre of the nail where you want it, and once you begin applying your colour over the whole nail, it will leave it thin on the sides and around the cuticle, creating a perfect arch where you want it.”

Roy says she enjoys creating ombré nails with dipping powder. “You take some powder with your brush and apply it lightly with the brush, so the powder’s dust goes on the nails. Then you can do whatever you want with the colours.” salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 27

Hairlines — COLOUR

Setting the Tone Toners are a colourist’s best allies, ensuring the shade being created is spot-on. Here are some tips for the most important part of your colour service.

Picking the Right Shade “Depending on the desired colour, and the level of lift you want to achieve, there are two different ways to pick a toner,” says Lemay. “Violet tones help neutralize the yellow that typically stays in hair after a lightening service. But if you want to see more richness in the colour, pick a toner that’s less cool.” He adds that we’re going to be seeing a resurgence of warmer hair shades for 2019 (Read: Mahogany, copper and sand). And remember, you read it here in Salon first!

Additionally, Finlayson advises always toning with the same level as what you have lightened to.

“If your hair is a level eight blonde, you need a level eight toner. This ensures there is enough pigment in the toner to do its job.” For platinum shades, “Dissolve most of the yellow pigment like the inside of the banana (level 10). For a rich caramel shade, the colour of the outside of the banana (level nine) is perfect.”

The great thing about toning is that it can also be offered as a refresher service between full, 28 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

HOW MUCH TIME FOR PROCESSING? Toners are all a bit different, so make sure you always follow the brand’s instructions.

A good rule of thumb: Twenty minutes will give you the colour’s maximal effect, while five minutes will be barely noticeable.

A FEW TIPS —

For very light, cool blondes, always suggest a violet shampoo be used between colour services in the salon.

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Recommend clients not shampoo their hair for 48 hours after the toner. The effects will last longer.

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All blonde shades require a deepmoisture and repair treatment weekly or monthly to strengthen and repair hair for the next service.

pre-lightening appointments. “The average life of a toner is eight to 10 shampoos, so many clients will book an appointment every four weeks for a toner and a blowout or trim.” This keeps the colour looking fresh and beautiful, and is a good option for pre-booking and filling your appointments book.

The Importance of Toner When hair is pre-lightened, the pigments exposed are raw, warm and often undesirable. The hair is also known to become more porous and susceptible to damage. “Toner not only polishes the final colour and allows for cooler, softer and more expensivelooking blondes, but it also seals and conditions hair so it is less likely to absorb free-radicals and minerals in water that also cause blonde shades to become brassy,” says Finlayson.

According to Lemay, blondes are the “crystal” of hair colour and, as such, require a lot of time to fine-tune the exact shade desired. The bottom line: These shades can’t be created quickly, and that’s why subtle gradations of very light hair always look expensive and rich. Because, in fact, they are!

Toners are becoming so important that colourists sometimes do “pre-toning.”

“To achieve some of the silver, pink and purple shades that are so trendy now, we need to remove the yellow first (pre-tone), and then go back in with the desired fashion pastel,” says Finlayson.

Like everything else, hair colouring is constantly evolving to meet the needs of discerning clients.

PHOTOS: HAIR: HOOKER & YOUNG ART TEAM, U.K., PHOTO: MICHAEL YOUNG

But First, Some Clarification Is there a difference between toning and glossing?

According to Roch Lemay, a Davines master colourist at Salon Pure in Montreal, “There are a lot of interpretations, and it usually has to do with marketing,” he says. “Toners are a demi-permanent formula that deposit pigment on the cuticle without penetrating it, but they change the colour of hair that’s been previously lightened.”

Michelle Finlayson, Western Canada education supervisor for Schwarzkopf Professional, also sets the record straight: “Glossing is used to enhance the shine and condition of the hair at any level, and can polish and intensify colour, as well. It can also be done on virgin hair by using clear gloss without any colour pigment at all.” If you want to tone and gloss in one single step, Finlayson recommends Igora Vibrance liquid-to-gel demi-colour from Schwarzkopf Professional to do both.

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Hairlines — MEN’S

Curl Code

Let’s face it: Curls can be quite demanding for clients—and for you! But with curls making a comeback for fall, it’s time to embrace the kink and get men looking their best this season.

Talk Isn’t Cheap

“Hair can be curlier on one section of the head than it is on the other, so it can be very unpredictable,” says Hassan Nasser, a men’s hairstylist and owner of Avalon Hair Salon in Calgary.

“You should always do a thorough consultation and look through the hair to see where it’s curlier.”

“Most problems hairstylists face arise when they try to create a look that doesn’t work with the way a client’s hair naturally grows,” says Demo Pedulla, a Quebec-based barber and Reuzel “scumbassador”. “The best thing to do is see how the hair naturally grows and work with it. Try to get the curl to work into the style you’re looking to do, and not vice versa.”

30 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

A Cut Above

“Less is more. If a client is asking you to cut an inch or inch-and-a-half, you don’t want to cut that exact amount. Curly hair is very resilient; once you cut it, it bounces right back, and one inch can turn into three or four inches because it curls back up,” says Nasser. “Don’t cut curly hair when it’s 100 per cent wet.

Cut it damp, so when you cut it, you can see it react. But don’t cut it when it’s 100 per cent dry, either, because it can get frizzy.”

Keep it Simple with Style

“I ask clients if they want me to style it for them, or if they want me to style it as if I were them,” says Nasser. “I

always put something in the hair when it’s damp—before I blow-dry—and it’s usually a lotion to help unify the curls.”

“The difference between men with curly hair and women with curly hair is that a lot of men don’t like volume,” says Pedulla. “I like to keep it light and focus on the weight. I would go with more wash-and-wear, leave-in products for a more natural look.”

Ditch the Diffuser

While a diffuser can be helpful for hairstylists, many clients find it intimidating. “Men aren’t going to use a diffuser. It’s too much effort and takes too much time,” says Nasser.

“I recommend keeping it as basic as possible with men’s hair.”

PHOTOS: HAIR: CONTESSA 29 ENTRANT: RACHEL FORTINO, SALON ALESSANDRO, ST. CATHARINES, ONT., MAKEUP: SANDRA LOMEDICO, STYLING: RACHEL FORTINO, PHOTO: KALE FRIESEN; HAIR: TORI GILL, PARAGON STUDIO, AUSTRALIA, MAKEUP: SARAH MCFADDEN, STYLING: MELISSA NIXON, PHOTO: ANDREW O’TOOLE

HELP YOUR MALE CLIENTS TAME THEIR TEXTURE WITH THESE TOP EXPERTS’ CUTTING AND STYLING TIPS.

“CURLS AND WAVES ARE COMING BACK WITH MORE OF THE LATE ’60S, LONDON, MOD-TYPE, ROCKER STYLES. AND A LOT MORE LENGTH.” — DEMO PEDULLA, A QUEBEC-BASED BARBER AND REUZEL “SCUMBASSADOR”.

Offer a Treatment

“Chemical treatments like keratin smoothing treatments can help loosen the curl a bit and get rid of the frizz, which is what a lot of men have a problem with,” says Nasser. “Or if a guy has really curly hair, we can chemically straighten it so it’s looser. I don’t like to get rid of 100 per cent of the curl, so what we’ll do is use a chemical straightening product and won’t leave it in for the full amount of time. It just loosens the curl so it’s easier for them to work with. It allows them to have a more low-maintenance style.”

Long vs. Short PRO TIP: USE A BLOW-DRYER, BUT DON’T GO CRAZY WITH IT, SAYS NASSER, WHO RECOMMENDS PUTTING THE DRYER ON A LOWER SPEED SETTING, BUT WITH HIGH HEAT. HE ALSO ADVISES AGAINST OVER-DRYING CURLY HAIR SINCE THE STYLE CAN GET BIG AND FRIZZY. INSTEAD, ALLOW THE HAIR TO AIRDRY FOR A MORE NATURAL LOOK.

Product Knowledge

“When working with finer texture, I add Reuzel’s Grooming Tonic after washing the hair,” says Pedulla. “It acts as my primer to concentrate the curl in its own natural shape. Then, I use Reuzel’s white pomade, which is a matte clay. It gives hair a soft coating with a lot of texture for a natural look, which is great for curls.”

Nasser adds that “you don’t want to use anything too dry, since curly hair can be pretty dry to start with. I have super curly hair and I use American

Crew’s Cream Pomade. It doesn’t harden, there’s a little bit of shine, and it washes out really easily. Or American Crew’s Curl Control is great if your client doesn’t want to put too much effort into their hair but it will help control frizz and keep curls uniform.”

PRO TIP: THE KINKIER THE HAIR, THE MORE YOU WANT TO HYDRATE THE CURL, SAYS PEDULLA, WHO SUGGESTS USING A LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER BEFORE STYLING.

“For very kinky, tight curls, I stay away from anything too short,” says Pedulla.

“I would want to keep more of a fuller baseline, which would give more texture to the way hair flows. I would keep a bit more length, but that also depends on what the client is looking for. I always find a tighter curl works better when you have more length to it.”

“For longer hair, I would keep it nice and square and lean,” says Nasser.

“Longer hair is coming back, but with longer hair, clients don’t want to be spending too much time on it. They want to throw something in, let it dry and be gone, so it’s more low-maintenance, lived-in and natural.”

salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 31

Hairlines — EDITOR’S PICKS

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TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL C

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FREEDOM TO EDUCATE FREESTYLE More than ever before, hairstylists are exploring the benefits of going solo as educators in their own right.

BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO

Have a Game Plan When it came time for Josie Vilay to take the leap, the freelance educator and salon owner based in Winnipeg, mapped out her schedule for the whole year. Because her salon keeps her so busy, she needed to balance her time there with her time doing education for salons and brands.

“My advice is to start off with a yearlong plan and then, month to month, plan out where you’ll be, how many education sessions you want to do over the year, and at which times of the year,” says Vilay. “See how many you can make work in your schedule, your work schedule and whatever other commitment you need to consider.”

Find Your Tribe As a freelance educator, you don’t have to go it alone. In fact, looking for opportunities to team up with other educators on different projects is where the real learning will be for you.

34 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

“Reach out to someone you may have worked with before, possibly on stage, or at a photo shoot,” suggests Richard Mannah, Joico’s international guest artistic director. “You can always polish your presentation skills, and learn by watching someone with experience slightly different than yours.” At the same time, Mannah says that social media influencers can also be a great source of learning inspiration. “I can learn from influencers, see what they are doing and creating, and it keeps me sharp, too.”

For Vilay, social media helped her launch into becoming an educator. “With Instagram, I was able to show what I specialized in, whether that was cutting or colour or even colour correction,” she says. “Once other salons started seeing my specialty, I had hairstylists and salons reach out to me for training.” Vilay adds that she still loves taking classes and watching online seminars for new ideas she can incorporate into her teaching. “You always need to be looking for new techniques and keeping up to date—that’s part of being an educator.”

Get Real, For Real By now, we all know who is faking it when it comes to education. You have to be the real deal in order for anyone to take you seriously. That said, you can never have too many connections. “I love what I do, and with freelancing, it really is about building authentic relationships with people,” says Mannah.

While Mannah has said, there’s a sense of security when you are working with a brand, having the freedom to work

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK

It stands to reason that a good education is always in high demand, and because of this fact, a growing number of hairstylists are realizing their skills can be a valuable commodity to those wanting to learn a new technique. From basic education and training programs, to on-stage, classroom or on-camera gigs, as an educator, you have the potential to instantly have an audience.

Thinking about taking on opportunities to educate? While it won’t happen overnight, here’s how you can get on the right track and create an action plan to take you from behind the chair to standing in front of an audience.

Cheat Sheet with other non-competitive ones can open the door to more opportunities in time. “Thankfully, I started working with many different brands, so I was exposed to different mindsets, and was able to really build relationships out of the box.” Bottom line, it takes time to get your name established as an eductor, and maintaining good relationships early on in your career will pay off in the long run.

Make a Connection One of the biggest mistakes you can make as an educator is trying to give your students too much in one session.

One way to keep the pace at a level that’s better for you and those learning is to keep a conversation going. “Ask questions so that your audience has a chance to digest what you are say and they can interact with you,” says Vilay, who adds that this simple step gives you the time to regroup and stay on track.

Another way to refine your skills as an educator is to ask for feedback from the group. If an in-person question-andanswer session isn’t ideal, try leaving a box out to collect written comments after the session.

Three quick tips for cutting it as a freelance educator.

ONE Educate in your posts. For real: Hairstylists want you to teach them something. Keep the steps simple and easy to understand, and use cover photos that will stop them long enough to view the video.

TWO Listen up and speak up. Take a public speaking course so you’re more confident in what you’re saying. Then, listen to educators and take notes; you want to come off strong and know that what you are saying. Think of educators and influencers you’ve seen on stage and try to emulate their style.

THREE Keep trying. Don’t be afraid of making mistakes. It takes a lot of trial and error when creating content, but do it once and it will become easier and more natural each time that follows.

PRO TIP GET YOURSELF IN THE GAME! START BY CONTACTING A HAIR SCHOOL AND OFFER TO HELP WITH TRAINING. IT’S A GREAT WAY TO GET YOURSELF COMFORTABLE WITH PRESENTING IN FRONT OF A CROWD. salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 35

Through Thic

36 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

2.

Problem Breakage-related hair loss

1.

Problem Thinning around the hairline

Clients that often wear their hair in tight updos might begin experiencing thinning around their hairline, known as traction alopecia.

To discover more options for thinning hair, visit SalonMagazine.ca.

Breakage caused by excessive heat styling can result in thinning and hair loss, affecting its condition and growth.

Solution Nioxin ThermActiv Protector

Solution Bosley Professional Strength Hair Thickening Fibers

These keratin fibres can be used to cover thinning and low-density areas, such as the hairline. They are charged with static electricity for seamless blending with hair.

“This is my favourite trick for fuller-looking hair,” says Caroline. “It’s keratin-based, so it’s soft on the scalp.

You sprinkle them on low density areas and it gives the appearance of a full head of hair.”

This spray not only protects hair from thermal damage, but it adds volume, lift, body and shine—all of which are especially beneficial for thinning hair. “This product is fantastic for protecting hair from heat. One of the biggest things we see is that people are burning their hair with their curling irons or flat irons,” says Crosfield.

“And breakage is a really big part of hair loss for a lot of people. They don’t notice, but we look at that as a big factor that contributes to thinning hair.”

PHOTO: BOSLEY PROFESSIONAL, NIOXIN, THINKSTOCK

As hairstylists, you have the ability to get to know your clients on a personal level.

You develop a comfort level that allows them to open up to you about just about everything. That said, there’s one subject that might be off the table, even when it shouldn’t be: Thinning hair.

Whether it’s embarrassment, a lack of understanding or they simply don’t realize it, clients experiencing hair loss or thinning may have difficulty getting the discussion started.

“You have to approach it with caution. Go in with soft, open-ended questions like, ‘Is there anything you would like to see improving in the way that your hair looks?’” says Anthony Crosfield, an educator for Nioxin and co-owner of Union Salon in Vancouver. “Yes or no answers are not very beneficial in a consultation.

You need a bit of a history on what the client does to their hair on a daily basis.”

It’s also important to remember: “Clients are coming to us for solutions,” says Sara Caroline, a core educator for Bosley Professional Strength. “If you see a problem and they do not bring it up, it would be a disservice to not let them know.”

Are clients complaining about their hair, or lack thereof? Help them understand why their hair’s appearance is changing—and the solutions to improve the way it looks and feels.

ck and Thin 3.

Problem Dry scalp

For any type of hair loss, it’s important to get to the “root” of it by ensuring that the scalp is in a healthy state.

Solution Nioxin Night Density Rescue

This leave-in treatment helps reduce hair loss by restoring the scalp, thanks to Nioxydine24 technology that contains a blend of antioxidants that neutralize free radicals on the scalp.

It also helps improve hair density. “It goes on at night and helps put the scalp in a restorative state while you sleep,” says Crosfield. “It’s designed to help keep the scalp clean and healthy.”

4.

Problem Lack of hair growth

A multitude of factors in a client’s lifestyle, ranging from genetics and health to diet and stress, can contribute to a decrease in hair growth.

Lost and Found

Solution: Bosley Professional Strength Healthy Hair Vitality Supplements (for Men and Women)

These new supplements help transform hair from the inside out. With a powerful blend of vitamins, they encourage healthy hair growth, improve hair strength and nourish the scalp for healthier-looking results. “It has saved not only my clients’ hair, but mine as well,” shares Caroline. “It solves the issues from the inside.”

5.

Problem Low hair density

“Each Nioxin 3D Care System covers a particular kind of hair need. Introducing clients to this will give them confidence in your knowledge. You will be able to guide them to solutions that are tailored, through consultation, for each of them,” says Crosfield. “I like to say, ‘I may not be the answer, but I can help you find one.’”

Solution Nioxin Diamax Hair Thickening Xtrafusion

As we know, hair’s thickness can vary widely from client to client. For clients with finer-looking hair, this daily serum helps improve the density of hair and the thickness of existing strands for a fuller-looking

head of hair. “It gives you an instant result. Once you use it, you can feel the difference in the hair right away,” says Crosfield. “For a lot of people, getting an instant result sets the tone. They’ll have more confidence in the product.

What we also discovered is that it strengthens elasticity and stops breakage.” salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 37

FRINGE BENEFITS Middle parts have reigned for years but now it’s primetime for fringes. Learn why you should include this versatile accent in your fall haircuts.

It’s a fact: Trends come and go. And then come back again. “I always take a close look at people on the street when I’m travelling, because fashion and trends don’t start on a catwalk,” says Stephen Moody, director of North American education for Wella Professionals. “Right now, for anybody under 22, the center part is really old. In a way, it’s rebelling against the beach wave look with the middle part, which is what their big sister or mom wears all the time.”

Beyond being current, Moody says fringes are an amazing addition to virtually any haircut, and can be worn by many types of clients. “To me, they’re like makeup and can be used to highlight cheekbones or to make someone’s face wider of narrower. Hopefully they can help us regain some of the clients we’re lost.”

Bringing Clients Back

According to Moody, fringes are the most interesting haircut option that’s come up of late.

“There hasn’t really been anything new in the last 10 years. With ombré, balayage and beach waves, these trends have not been good for the hairstyling business. So, hopefully fringes can help us redefine our craft, and make us go back to being great at haircutting again.”

Yannick Brisebois, a L’Oréal Professionnel Canadian ambassador and co-owner of U Salon Boutique in Beloeil, Que., also feels that fringes are closing in on the “festival hair” trend—read: 38 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

“FOILING, SLICING HAIR AND ADDING TWO OR THREE COLOURS IN THE FRINGE REALLY PUTS A STAMP ON THE LOOK AND CONNECTS THE CUT AND THE WOMAN. IT’S TAILORMADE AND WHAT WILL SET YOUR SKILLS APART.” – STEPHEN MOODY, DIRECTOR OF NORTH AMERICAN EDUCATION FOR WELLA PROFESSIONALS

PHOTOS: HAIR: BILL TSIKNARIS, TSIKNARIS HAIR, AUSTRALIA, COLOUR: CHRIS TSIKNARIS, STYLING: LYDIA-JANE SAUNDERS, PHOTO: DAVID MANNAH; HAIR: NICOLE KAE, AUSTRALIA, MAKEUP: CHEREINE WADDELL, STYLING: EMMA COTTERILL; PHOTO: MILOS MLYNARIK

BY YASMIN GROTHÉ

Steps to the Perfect Fringe —

Identify the shape of the client’s face

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Determine the desired length of the fringe

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Cut a fine layer of hair that will become your guide (to avoid mistakes)

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Add texture only after blow-drying

Styling and Finishing Tips

CURTAIN FRINGES Reminiscent of the ’90s—a huge trend right now—curtain fringes suit any type of face. “They’re a great transition into a more feathered look. We’re going to be seeing a lot more wavy, layered hair, with rounded edges. It’s also a style that softens features and will bring a heady dose of chic to anybody’s look,” says Brisebois.

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It’s all about layering styling products

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Together, they create the proper finish

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“Always prep hair with foundation products, use construction products to create the movement, and then deconstruct with a finishing product. Each of them play an important part in creating a polished look,” says Brisebois.

Fringe Maintenance Super long locks and a simple middle part. “That whole trend had a very lived-in look that didn’t require a lot of upkeep. I think women want a bit more personal style now. The very young client has matured and maybe she’s thinking of starting a career where she’ll need a more polished look.”

“We’re going back to a phase where hairstylists will reclaim their role,” Brisebois adds. “Clients are looking for a new identity, and they will start seeking out our expertise to create a signature look. They need help and we’re one of the only professionals who can offer them that type of guidance.”

Making the Cut

Fringes bring definition to hair and are a great face-framing option. To find out if fringe is right

for your client, the key point is, the consultation.

“Ask lots of questions to make sure she is ready,” says Moody. “Particularly if it’s a short fringe that’s being discussed, which will require more maintenance.” And always cut it longer than the client wants to minimize any shock when adjusting to a new style.

“Making sure you understand how the hair grows, its direction, and factoring in any cowlicks should be your guide in recommending which type of fringe is best suited,” says Brisebois. Sometimes clients come in with a photo, but you need to really understand what it is they like and want in the shot.

Is it really the hair? Maybe it’s what the person is wearing. Or sometimes it can just be the lighting.

You really need to have an in-depth conversation and manage their expectations.

—

Clients should come in every three weeks for a refresher cut

—

Suggest dry shampoo to avoid the dreaded greasy, stringy fringe

—

Create custom looks by using hair colour

—

Boost your fringe clientele by offering trims at a flat rate, or better yet, complimentary to build loyalty

salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 39

Master Crafts How every hairstylist can take their skills to the next level.

BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO

Why More Canadian Hairstylists Need to Get Out There It’s easy to complain of boredom in the salon, but not so easy to get out there and do something about it. No one knows that better than Fiorante. “I would sit and complain that I was bored and I wasn’t making enough money. I was that hairstylist who would put off pushing myself, but you have to try,” he says. “In Canada, we are used to the same thing. Any time you can get outside of the country, you’ll be inspired by everything from a different culture.

There are never enough opportunities you can have to immerse yourself in a new culture.”

40 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

Why Vision is Important, But Not Always a Big Deal As a hairstylist for more than a decade, Fiorante knew he had to up his game if he wanted to continue to grow his creativity. “Working at Fiorio gave me the opportunity to see the 2016 Style Masters show for the first time and I was blown away,” he says. “So much so, that I came back with the thought that one day, I wanted to be on stage, and here I am two years later. I had a vision and decided to make it happen.”

Why You Don’t Need Perfection to Be Creative Fiorante says his looks are inspired partly by royalty and mythology from portraits he has seen. “I had these ideas in my head [and wanted to create], yet nothing was working. But I work well under pressure without thinking,” he says. “With the initial look, you can always perfect it after, but sometimes you need to just create the look and see how your ideas come to life.”

How a Family Atmosphere Builds You Up From his first time at the Style Masters event, Fiorante says he realized he was a part of something much bigger. “When I came back, I remember wanting to really be a part of the competition and I felt that every hairstylist needed to go and have that experience,” he says. “Seeing hairstylists like you on stage—it ignites something in you that gets you out of that feeling of being bored in a salon.”

How It Feels to Represent Your Country In a similar way that competitive athletes play for their country, or musicians take the stage in front of their hometown crowd, at the Style Masters event, country winners are representing with national pride. “Seeing myself in photos on the red carpet, it really made me speechless and grateful for the opportunity,’ he says. “For me it’s like watching the Grammys or the Oscars.

Sitting in the audience and seeing yourself as the Canadian winner—it’s that drive.”

PHOTOS: REVLON PROFESSIONAL, RAFFAELE FIORANTE

While some may argue that hair shows are losing steam, there’s nothing like adding a competition to get a hairstylist’s creativity to reach new heights. For Revlon Professional’s global Style Masters event in Barcelona, Spain, Canadian hairstylists felt the energy was electric and inspiring. We spoke with hairstylists (including Raffaele Fiorante, the Canadian Style Masters finalist) and found out what it means to represent your country on stage, meet hairstylists from around the world and above all, dream big!

manship “WHEN THEY WERE ANNOUNCING THE COUNTRY WINNERS, I SAW THE PHOTOS AND MY NAME AND I GOT GOOSEBUMPS,” SAYS FIORANTE. “GOING ON THE RED CARPET WITH MY TEAM FROM FIORIO AND REVLON PROFESSIONAL WAS SUCH A GREAT EXPERIENCE AND EVERYONE WAS SO KIND.”

AUDIENCE ENGAGEMENT No matter where your salon is located, here’s why hairstylists want be in the audience at an international hair show.

Team Spirit “The excitement that comes from meeting hairstylists from every part of the world and celebrating competitors is exciting.

Being able to interact with hairstylists from other countries is both inspiring and it makes my heart full.”

—Brenda Hermann, HairWizardry, Edmonton Trendspotting “Nothing can replace the excitement of being in the front row of such a massive hair and fashion event. It gives you the chance to exchange with other passionate and proud hairstylists from the industry, in cities around the world from where fashion and beauty takes its cues.”

—Marie-Christine Blondin, Atelier Tête Folle, Québec City

➣

Hairstyling Olympics “For the past four years it has been a thrill to attend the Style Masters event.

I’m always amazed by the work, the energy and the dedication provided from all the international hairstylists who are like watching athletes during the live competition.”

—Marie-Christine Blondin, Atelier Tête Folle, Québec City

Making time to enjoy the experience of being a part of an international hair show.

FIORANTE’S MOTTO Dream as big as you want, you just never know what can happen until you try. salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 41

Collections — EYE OF THE BEHOLDER

Combining the creative vision of a superstar team, this collection is the epitome of #hairinspo.

HAIR Ulta Beauty Pro Team, Chicago MAKEUP Deney Adam STYLING Carlton Jones PHOTOS Richard Monsieurs

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salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 43

Collections — SHAPESHIFTER

This Contessa 29 finalist showcases her versatility with a mix of sharp cuts, textured styles and a splash of colour.

44 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

Finalist, Contessa 29 Canadian Hairstylist of the Year: Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. MAKEUP Joelle Martin STYLING Melissa Duguay PHOTOS Denis Duquette salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 45

Collections — ICE QUEENS

Soft, textured styles are given the royal treatment in this ultra-feminine collection.

HAIR Danielle Keasling, Salon Karma, Bluffton, S.C., MAKEUP Deney Adam PHOTOS Richard Monsieurs

46 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 47

Collections — SOFT YET STRUCTURED

With a playful take on texture, this Australian award-winning collection adds an eccentric touch to elegant styles.

48 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

HAIR Damien Rinaldo, Boris the Cuttery, Australia MAKEUP Belinda Zollo STYLING Ella Murphy PHOTOS Andrew O'Toole salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 49

Collections — CREATIVE SPARK

This black-andwhite collection is brought to life with clean lines, soft texture and superior finishing.

HAIR Mark Woolley and the Electric Art Team, U.K. MAKEUP Maddie Austin STYLING Clare Frith PHOTOS Jack Eames

50 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 51

Collections — FRESH PERSPECTIVE

It’s no surprise that this student hairstylist’s collection of sleek styles and stenciled colour placement earned her a 2018 NAHA award.

52 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

HAIR Ali Haller, Aveda Institute Denver, Highlands Ranch, Co. MAKEUP Anne Skubis STYLING Heidi Gress PHOTOS Keith Bryce salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 53

Collections — GO BOLD OR GO HOME 54 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

Sharp cuts and textured styles are elevated by modern colour placement in this Canadian collection.

Finalist, Contesa 29 Canadian Salon Team: Civello Salon & Spa, Toronto MAKEUP Anna Conte STYLING Armand Digdoyo PHOTOS Peter Tamlin salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 55

Collections — THE UNDONE EFFECT

Airy, textured styles are brought to life with a range of vivid and pastel hues in this Canadian collection.

Finalist, Contessa 29 Master Colourist of the Year: Natalia Petcu, Zoom Hair Studio, New Westminster, B.C. MAKEUP Felicia Bromba PHOTOS Benjamin Kwan

56 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 57

Collections — RISQUÉ BUSINESS

This Canadian collection pushes the envelope with sleek lines, textured styles and out-ofthe-box colour placement.

58 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

Finalist, Contessa 29 Canadian Hairstylist of the Year: Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. MAKEUP Florencia Taylor STYLING Julie Vriesinga & Florencia Taylor PHOTOS Paula Tizzard

salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 59

Collections — CITY CHIC

Muted hues and windswept texture give this Canadian collection a modern edge.

60 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

Finalist, Contessa 29 Canadian Colourist of the Year: Victoria Tsinokas, Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby, Ont. MAKEUP Ashley Lovsin STYLING Michael Shire PHOTOS Kale Friesen salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 61

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PRESENTED BY

Contessa CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Karine Belanger, Karine Styliste, Montreal Karina Brasseur, Coupe Sculpture, Repentigny, Que. Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Marie-Josée Dupuis, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Jesse Ervin, Civello Salon, Toronto Michelle Finlayson, Freelance, Edmonton, Alta.

Sarah Hess, Pretty & Co., St. Catharines, Ont. Anica Iordache, Modmop Hairdressing, Ottawa Nancy Lapierre, Le 2013 Coiffure, Jonquière, Que. Joanna Libbey, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Sandro Macri, Salon Collage, Toronto Alain Pereque, Freelance, Montreal Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton, Alta.

Morgan Roy, Aveda Academy Salon, Toronto Rafael Scasserra, Xpression The Salon, Whitby, Ont. Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. CANADIAN SALON TEAM Bob + Paige Salon, Toronto Civello Salon & Spa, North York, Ont. Dragonfly Salon and Spa, St. Thomas, Ont. Edward Carriere Salon, Winnipeg Harmony Hair Care, Peterborough, Ont. INdustry Hair & Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont. James Dimitri Hair Atelier, Aurora, Ont. Medz Salon, Verdun, Que. Oblic Salon Spa Urbain, Montreal Salon Alessandro, St. Catharines, Ont. Salon Collage, Toronto Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge, Ont. Salon Pure, Montreal Sin7Salon, White Rock, B.C. Suki’s Salon, Vancouver Supernova Salon, North Vancouver The Headroom Salon & Spa, Paradise, Nfld.

Valentini Hair Design & Spa, Guelph, Ont. Valvano Salon, St. Catharines, Ont. Venere Salon, Oakville, Ont. ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST James Abu-Ulba, Spa Utopia & Salon, Langley, B.C. Rodrigo Araneda, OLab Coiffeurs, Montreal Adrian Carew, Hair 91 Inc., Toronto Anthony Crosfield, Union Salon, Vancouver Donna Dolphy, Donna Dolphy Hair, Toronto Marc Galati, Headlines Salon, Stouffville, Ont. Artine Ghazarian, Artine Hair, Edmonton, Alta.

64 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

Kelly Hunter, Salon Venator, Winnipeg Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Ludovic Leroy-Vigier, Rayko Coiffure, LaSalle, Que. Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver Anna Pacitto, Salon Pure, Montreal Alain Pereque, Freelance, Montreal Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Antoine Vadacchino, Salon Pure, Montreal MASTER COLOURIST Robin Bacon, Giovanni and Perri, Barrie, Ont. Nicolas Bergeron, Oblic Villeray, Montreal Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Krysten-Ashley Garrod, Studio Fontana, Toronto Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver Joan Novak, JoNo Hair, Whistler, B.C. Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer, Ont. Caroline Robitaille, Coiffure Caroline Robitaille, Repentigny, Que. Michael Shire, Holt Renfrew Salon and Spa, Toronto Marlo Steenman, The Glamour Box, St. Albert, Alta.

Jennifer Vermeer, Fascinature the Salon, Hamilton, Ont. SESSION HAIRSTYLIST Robin Bacon, Giovanni and Perri, Barrie, Ont. Darcie Chapman, The Black Swan Hair Co., Spruce Grove, Alta.

Mathieu Daigle, Atelier Mega Coiffure, Québec, Que. Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Marie-Josée Dupuis, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Erin Fernandes, ED Hair & Tattoo, London, Ont. Katie Grasdal, Darling Bridal, Edmonton, Alta.

Duyen Huynh, DH Studio, Scarborough, Ont. Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Amy Laing, Ponytails + Horseshoes Ltd., Edmonton, Alta.

Sandro Macri, Salon Collage, Toronto Kirsten McIntosh, Freelance, Oakville, Ont. Jag Moussa, JagHed Couture, Calgary Vu Nguyen, LURE Salon, Vancouver Mandy Rogers, Hunt & Gather Hair Company, Victoria, B.C. Cindy St. Pierre, Altimo Salons, Edmonton, Alta.

Sophie Tessier, Salon Larousse, Montreal Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. Heather Wenman, Studio H, London, Ont. Norm Wright, Taz Hair Co., Toronto INTERNATIONAL HAIRSTYLIST George Alderete, Colorboygeo LLC, Atlanta, Ga. David Barron, Barron’s London Salon, Atlanta, Ga. Chrystofer Benson, CBC Chrystofer Benson Collective, South Weber, Ut.

Robert Bushy, Sense: A Robert Bushy Salon, Madison, Wis. Lani Caslake, Flipped Hair, Croydon Hills, Australia Anthony Cole, Freelance, Long Beach, Calif.

Hermiz Daniel, Hermiz Salon, Melbourne, Australia Tracey Devine-Smith, Freelance, Surrey, U.K. Joe Habbaki, Toni & Guy, Armadale, Australia Hanan Ibrahim, Lahfete Hair Salon, Bass Hill, Australia Mark Leeson, Mark Leeson, Mansfield, U.K. Candice McKay, Wyatt Hairdressing and Barbering, Johannesburg, South Africa Charlotte Mensah, Charlotte Mensah Hair Lounge, London, U.K. Dmitri Papas, Papas and Pace, Brisbane, Australia Nikki Porter, Rubi Hair, Malvern, Australia Morgan Richards, Toni & Guy, McMahons Point, Australia Joey Scandizzo, Joey Scandizzo Salon, South Yarra Victoria, Australia Gary Taylor, Edward and Co, Brighouse, U.K. Sharon Tranter, Sharon Tranter, Newnan, Ga. Sam Villa, Sam Villa, Fleming Island, Fl. CANADIAN COLOURIST Erin Fernandes, ED Hair & Tattoo, London, Ont. Myriam Gravel, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Ann-Marie Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Simon James, Avant Garde Hair Studio, Vancouver Soyeon Jin, Pomp & Proper Salon, Vancouver Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Connor Lange, Bob + Paige Salon, Toronto April McDougald, Heart & Soul Hair Studio, Regina, Sask.

Marie-Eve Medza, Mëdz Salon, Verdun, Que. Joan Novak, JoNo Hair, Whistler, B.C. Vu Nguyen, LURE Salon, Vancouver Michelle Pargee, Freelance, Sechelt, B.C. Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer, Ont. Nicole Prentice, Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby, Ont. Dustin Schumann, Freelance, London, Ont. Michael Shire, Holt Renfrew Salon and Spa, Toronto Victoria Tsinokas, Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby, Ont. David Vendittelli, INdustry Hair & Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont. Jennifer Vermeer, Fascinature the Salon, Hamilton, Ont. Eryn Wall, The Headroom Salon & Spa, Paradise, Nfld.

ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST Danielle Barbey, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Darcie Chapman, The Black Swan Hair Co., Spruce Grove Hana Gohill, Social Cut & Shave, Calgary Jeff Louis, Elysium Hair Body Spirit, Edmonton Chelsea Mann, Chelsea Mann Hair Company, St. Albert Hassan Nasser, Avalon Salon, Calgary Simone Pettigrew, Darling Bridal, Edmonton

2019 Semi-Finalists!

Zunny Suderman, Zunny Hair, Calgary Sasha Thaxter, Sass Couture Salon, Airdrie Alannah Zilkowsky, Rock Paper Hair Designs, Sherwood Park ATLANTIC HAIRSTYLIST Alma Head, Alma’s Family Hair Salon, Sydney, N.S. Bailey Squires Hynes, The Hair Factory, St. John’s, Nfld.

Sharon Keller, Bounce! Hair Studio, Long Creek, P.E.I. Heidi Kenney, Heidi Kenney Hair Studio, Yarmouth, N.S. Ali Pike, The Seahorse Salon, St. John’s, Nfld.

Eryn Wall, The Headroom Salon & Spa, Paradise, Nfld.

BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST Sara Burke, Black2Blond, Vancouver Alisha Dryburgh, Topknot Beauty Room, Vancouver Ken Hung, Salon Era, Richmond Curtis Hunter, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Timothy Kuo, Salon Haze, Vancouver Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver Vu Nguyen, LURE Salon, Vancouver Michelle Pargee, Freelance, Sechelt Freddy Sim, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Loretta Tom, Salon Haze, Vancouver ONTARIO HAIRSTYLIST Johnny Cupello, JC Salons, Toronto Robynn Graham, Hair by Robynn, Innisfil Anica Iordache, Modmop Hairdressing, Ottawa Suzanne Martin, Three Small Rooms Hair Salon, Barrie Tracy Newton, Aveda Institute Toronto, Toronto Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer Stephanie Schewe, Salon Collage, Toronto Dustin Schumann, Freelance, London, Ont. Victoria Tsinokas, Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London QUEBEC HAIRSTYLIST Karina Brasseur, Coupe Sculpture, Repentigny Samuel Chabot, Coiffure Le Saint, Québec Étienne Cloutier, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec Mathieu Daigle, Atelier Mega Coiffure, Québec Vincent DiPlacido, Sadiva Coiffure, Laval Caroline Fournier, Rhenndo Coiffure, Chicoutimi Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard Mathieu Mainville, Freelance, Montreal Josée Renaud, Josée Renaud Coiffure, Québec Eric St-Jean, Lo Atelier, Laval SASKATCHEWAN/MANITOBA HAIRSTYLIST Tara Friedrich, Salon Haze, Regina Leah Gress, Chel SalonSpa, Saskatoon Uyen Huynh, Vanity Hair and Esthetics, Saskatoon Kelsie Kitzul, Chel SalonSpa, Saskatoon Jason Lachance, Pink Star Hair Design, Winnipeg Colleen Lamirande, Verde Salon, Winnipeg April McDougald, Heart & Soul Hair Studio, Regina Tiffany Rice, Urban Crush Salon, Winnipeg Lisa Schoor, Cutting Loose Hair Design, Winnipeg Alicia Soulier, Capelli Salon Studio Inc., Saskatoon

AVANT GARDE HAIRSTYLIST Jean-Sébastien Chalut, O Salon, Montreal Stephane Scotto Di Cesare, Freelance, Montreal Kim Garneau, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Jae Jeong, Avant Garde Hair Studio, Vancouver Ludovic Leroy-Vigier, Rayko Coiffure, LaSalle, Que. Jag Moussa, JagHed Couture, Calgary Lina Shamoun, Artline Salon, Kitchener, Ont. Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Norm Wright, Taz Hair Co., Toronto CANADIAN NAIL ARTIST Danielle Clark, Trabbit Nail Creations, Grand Forks, B.C. Rom Diaz, BSIDE Beauty, Toronto Anick Pouliot, Pose d Ongle Anick Pouliot, Levis, Que. Robyn Schwartz, Robyn Schwartz Nail Design, Charlottetown, P.E.I. MAKEUP ARTIST Gabrielle Brulotte, Freelance, Québec, Que. Marika D’Auteuil, MD Makeup, Montreal Heidi Fleming, Beauty by Heidi Amelia, Morden, N.S. Breanne Gershon, Glam Breanne, Medicine Hat, Alta.

Véronique Girard, Véronique Girard – Artiste Maquilleur, Jonquière, Que. Alexandre Lajoie, Miuz, Trois-Rivières, Que. Isabelle Pan, Vbeauty Studio, Richmond, B.C. Jakki Polyoka, Make Up by Jakki, Hamilton, Ont. Vincent Tang-Slomian, Vinny Artistry & Co., North York, Ont. Florencia Taylor, Freelance, London, Ont. MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST Ben Barkworth, JustB Salon, Toronto Eric Charpentier, Brossés, Montreal Yanick Chartrand-Kravitz, Brossés, Montreal Marie-Justine Deziel, Freelance, Montreal Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Christine Kelly, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. John Kinney, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Hassan Nasser, Avalon Salon, Calgary Paul Pereira, Solo Bace, Toronto Mark Santarossa, Ego Salon, Brampton, Ont. MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST Jenny Bell, Headlines Salon & Spa, Stouffville, Ont. Aubrey Bonnah-Vink, Avant Garde Hair Studio, Vancouver Johnny Cupello, JC Salons, Toronto Marie-Josée Dupuis, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Soyeon Jin, Pomp and Proper Salon, Vancouver Karly Menzies, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Dustin Schumann, Freelance, London, Ont. Freddy Sim, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Martha P. Stacey, Avant Garde Hair Studio, Vancouver Norm Wright, Taz Hair Co., Toronto NEW HAIRSTYLIST Eloise Chiew, Suki’s South Granville, Vancouver Dannelle Flemming, Felix and Ginger Salon, Alton, Ont.

Tori Frappier, Dragonfly Salon and Spa, St. Thomas, Ont. Robynn Graham, Hair by Robynn, Innisfil, Ont. Minseo Kim, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Catherine Niro, Salon Collage, Toronto Silvia Pensato, CRAFT Academy Salon, Vancouver Samara Shiach, CRAFT Academy Salon, Vancouver Dustin Schumann, Freelance, London, Ont. Monica Turingia, Stylers Hair Studio, Guelph, Ont. STUDENT-APPRENTICE HAIRSTYLIST Lucy Abate, Felix and Ginger Salon, Alton, Ont. Meaghan Boswell, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. Emma-Lynn Bouliane, Scissors Hair Studio, Ottawa Rachelle Dixon, Hair Power, Woodstock, Ont. Cherish Eaton, MC College, Edmonton, Alta.

TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST Annie Boucher, Coiffure Marc Bernier et CIE, Sainte-Julie, Que. Danielle Degraaf, Creative Images Hair Studio, Woodstock, Ont. Marie-Josée Dupuis, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Simon James, Avant Garde Hair Studio, Vancouver Tracy Newton, Aveda Institute Toronto, Toronto Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer, Ont. Dustin Schumann, Freelance, London, Ont. John Seo, The Cellar Salon, Toronto Isabel Wilson, Opus Salon & Spa, St. Thomas, Ont. SALON INTERIOR DESIGN Concrete Barbers, Fort Saskatchewan, Alta.

Concrete Blonde Hair & Body, Sherwood Park, Alta.

Dat Salon, Toronto Evolve Hair Studio, Toronto Jaja Spa, Toronto Karma Salon, Calgary Mast Hair, Edmonton Meraki Hair Studio, Calgary Studio So Lara, Guelph, Ont. The Shop Beauty Bar, Woodbridge, Ont. JOHN STEINBERG AWARD FOR COMMUNITY SERVICE Capucci Salon, Toronto Connect Hair Studio, Barrie, Ont. Jonni’s Styling Studio, Kamloops, B.C. Suki’s Hair Salon & Academy, Vancouver Taz Hair Co., Toronto The Green Hair Spa, Stratford, Ont. Tomax Hairworks, Etobicoke, Ont.

Finalists listed online mid-October and in the November/December issue. #FOMO? Subscribe to our newsletter to see them first at SalonMagazine.ca!

salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 65

GET THE LOOK

Kérastase V.I.P. Volume in Powder “It works well for backcombing and helps hold hair in place.”

Eloise Chiew For Eloise Chiew, the path to hairdressing wasn’t so clear-cut. With interests in art and working with her hands, she explored a culinary career in baking, specializing in wedding cakes, and learned skills that—unbeknownst to her—would help her in her hairstyling career. “Baking teaches you about proportion, structure and composition,” she says. “And understanding that helped me with my hairdressing, too. It all just builds upon it.”

Foot in the Door After realizing she had a passion for hair, Chiew enrolled in the apprenticeship program at Suki’s Academy in Vancouver. Upon graduating, she attended a class led by Vivienne Mackinder in New York. “It was incredible. Seeing the way she works; she’s very calm and intentional with everything she does. She likes to play with the hair and see how it moves. Nothing is set in stone.”

Whether it’s observing the work of a master stylist or teaching students, Chiew says there’s always something new to learn. “Education is everything,” she says. “Even if you can’t use something directly, it can always influence something you do in the future.”

66 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

Finding her Way Chiew has enjoyed participating in photo shoots and competitions, especially since working with Suki’s, a salon with several Contessa entrants.

As her first Contessa entry, Chiew says she drew inspiration from nature and hair’s movement in the wind. “I wanted to be a little more dramatic, so I did it in black and white, and focused on the silhouette and movement of the hair,” she explains. “I played with the hair to see what it wanted to do.”

For her fellow new hairstylists looking to get their start in competitive work, Chiew says it’s all about being proactive. “Just do it and learn how to be very organized. Look for contests and opportunities to do a photo shoot. Even if there aren’t opportunities, create your own photo shoots for your own portfolio.”

“It’s a chance to be creative, because we don’t really get a chance to do that type of work in the salon on a daily basis,” she adds.

“If you’re more of the creative type, you should find a way to [channel] that.”

Shu Uemura Sheer Lacquer Micro Fine Finishing Hair Spray “It’s great for hold and shine.”

L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art Constructor “It’s good for protecting hair against heat, and holds the style in place when styling with heat.”

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTOS: HAIR: ELOISE CHIEW, SUKI’S SOUTH GRANVILLE, VANCOUVER, MAKEUP: MIMI CHOI, STYLING: CLAUDIA DAPONTE, PHOTO: MARTIN BOUGIE; KÉRASTASE, SHU UEMURA, L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

Contessa Gallery — 2018 NEW HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR FINALIST

“I wanted to be a little more dramatic, and focused on the silhouette and movement of the hair.”

Business —

Educating The Client Why it’s crucial to empower your guests with product knowledge and technical information.

BY YASMIN GROTHÉ

If keeping up-to-date on the latest hairstyling and colouring techniques is important to you and your staff, it makes sense that it’s necessary intel for your clients, as well, since the information will not only help cement your relationship but also positions you as their to-go beauty guru.

As a hair expert, you should be perceived as the best and most reliable source of information when it comes to your client’s quest for style. And educating your clients plays a key role in creating that trust.

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK

Style Doctor

“In a hair salon, a proper consultation goes right down to the at-home maintenance products, so that the look you’ve created stays fresh as long as possible,” says Valérie Francisque, chief regional sales manager of eastern Canada for L’Oréal Professionnel and Kérastase. “This is what makes you look like the professional you are, and justifies the cost of the service. It’s also what creates a bond with your client and helps solidify your credibility.”

When your client is in the chair, try to keep the conversation on topic—hair, that is! “You should always keep in mind that your role is to inform and share your expertise with your client to build a strong relationship,” Francisque adds. This is also what will set you apart from more hairstylists in establishing your role as a hair professional and educator to your clients. “I always like to compare stylists to doctors. A client books an appointment with a professional hairstylist because there is trust and a level of proficiency that’s expected,” she says.

“The goal is to communicate the newest, most relevant information from the hair industry in a setting that creates an uplifting experience.”

Information Expert

Now that Google has widely democratized information, everybody has access to the latest news and trends in every possible field. So, it’s very

likely that the consumer sitting in your chair has already done her own research before stepping into the salon. “The role of the hairstylist is to validate that information or to set the record straight.

And this is where educating your client goes a long way, because it’s a language the client can now understand.”

In order to maintain the level of expertise your client expects from you, Francisque recommends scheduling as many classes as possible for yourself throughout the year. “There are so many technological advancements happening all the time, at every major brand, that you need to understand and communicate this information quickly and efficiently. It’s a question of staying relevant as a haircare professional,” she says.

Also, remember that by sharing your knowledge, you don’t need to “push products” as much, but instead you empower your client.

Tips to Educate Your Client According to François Ferland, regional education manager for KAO Canada in Quebec, hairstylists should share their knowledge with clients in order to:

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Position yourself as a responsible hair professional who is concerned about the quality of your work and its results

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Heighten your credibility and establish a relationship of trust with the client

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Help an informed client better understands the products he or she uses

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Communicate the correct information about key ingredients, and justify certain costs associated with professional products. If clients understand the technology and all the R & D behind the products, they will be more accepting of pricing.

salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 67

Find out how a hair colour blunder led to the discovery of an industry game-changer.

Carmen Tal, co-founder of Moroccanoil, shares her story as the brand celebrates its 10th anniversary!

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

68 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

manufacturing the product— which is known today as the Moroccanoil Treatment—and got distribution for North America. That’s how we started and the rest is history.

You owned a salon in Montreal? Tell us more about that.

Back then, I was a stay-athome mom. My children started school, so I had a lot of free time. My hairdresser decided to open a salon in our neighbourhood and needed some financial help.

I loved the idea. I’m not a hairdresser, but I loved going to the salon.

It was something new for me, but little did I know that it was preparing me for everything I know about the industry today. I think at the end of the day, there’s a reason for the things that happen to you—whether it

FUN FACT Tal still lives in Montreal part-time. “I’ve lived in Canada for 33 or 34 years. I’m more Canadian than I am Chilean now,” she says with a laugh. “We kept our house at the lake, so in the summer I go up north to the Laurentians. It’s just beautiful.”

was a good experience or a bad experience—to prepare you for something bigger.

The business relationship didn’t work out, so after three years I sold the salon to a hairdresser that really understood the industry inside out.

So, in a way, Moroccanoil is actually Canadian?

It was born in Canada—we started the business in Montreal. The last year that I owned the salon was when I discovered the Moroccanoil brand. I had already made up my mind that I was going to sell the salon, so the Moroccanoil Treatment came in at the right time. I had time to figure out how we were going to bring it to market.

PHOTOS: MOROCCANOIL; JASON CARTER RINALDI

What led to the creation of Moroccanoil?

I was the owner of a very small salon in Montreal at the time and unfortunately, one of the people working in the salon severely damaged my hair. I went to Israel and my sister-in-law took me to a salon. I refused to cut my hair, so the hairdresser introduced me to [argan oil]. I was wowed by it and decided to take two bottles of it with me to Montreal. I started using the product and noticed a dramatic difference in my hair. My hairdresser began using it, too. That’s when I figured that I had something incredible in my hands.

After six months of trying to convince my husband, Ofer Tal, that it would be a good business opportunity, he went to Israel and met with the people that were

➣

Profile —CARMEN TAL

Striking Gold

The Moroccanoil Treatment really became a gamechanger in the industry.

And, as the old adage goes, “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.” So, how does Moroccanoil manage to stay ahead of imitators?

When you are a pioneer—the first one in the category—you will always be that brand, no matter how many people come after you [with a similar] packaging, name, ingredient, concept. You will always be the first and I don’t think anybody can take that away from you.

Also, I think it’s a combination of things. One of the things we’ve done is maintained the integrity of the brand. I think people see that every time we launch a product, there’s a lot of integrity behind it.

Moroccanoil has a strong presence at Fashion Week.

Why is that important to you?

It’s super important.

Everything related to beauty relates to fashion—they go hand in hand. We have to continue collaborating with fashion brands. We’re not at all of the fashion weeks around the world, but we’re

Tal credits global brand ambassador (and fellow Montrealer) Antonio Corral Calero (pictured left) for being an instrumental part of the brand’s success.

Artistic director Kevin Hughes has taken the lead backstage at fashion week, showcasing his editorial hairstyling skill set.

in the big cities. Hopefully we grow a wider audience.

My background was in fashion before I started the Moroccanoil company.

When I moved to Canada from Chile, I couldn’t speak French or English very well, and the only way that I could work was in retail. So I was very lucky to find a fantastic job working at Ogilvy’s,

“AT THE END OF THE DAY, THERE’S A REASON FOR THE THINGS THAT HAPPEN TO YOU—WHETHER IT WAS A GOOD EXPERIENCE OR A BAD EXPERIENCE—TO PREPARE YOU FOR SOMETHING BIGGER.” WHAT ARE THE TWO HAIR PRODUCTS THAT EVEN CARMEN TAL CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT? VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA TO FIND OUT!

which was and still is a very prestigious store. I made a career in fashion retail, and my last job was with Liz Claiborne, where I was the manager and buyer for their only flagship store in Canada. It was an incredible opportunity for me.

With Moroccanoil celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, what are you most proud of?

A lot of things, but one of them is that we’ve changed the lives of a lot of people: hairdressers, consumers and businesspeople. We came into the market at a time when there was saturation in the industry. I think it was very refreshing for us to come in with a very tight group of products. And even to this day, people thank us for helping them build their businesses in times when people were struggling in the industry. salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 69

Interiors — STUDIO SO LARA

Brand New Creation Here’s what it takes to launch a salon to interior success.

As a hairstylist for the past 15 years, Lara Leckie had worked in a number of salon environments, so when she set out to open her own salon, she knew she wanted it to be different. It was so different, in fact, that she was regularly asked by clients how she could possibly improve on her flagship space. But, as with hair and fashion, interior design can be influenced by a myriad of factors.

Lit from Within For the Guelph location of So Lara, Leckie was inspired by salons she’d seen on a 2016 trip to Stockholm. “I saw very modern, ornate and dark interiors, which I thought would be a challenge to include in a salon, and it was,” she says.

To offset the dark walls, lighting played a major role, and a team of designers crafted ring lighting for each station around the mirror, which lit people from the mirror rather than overhead.

“We learned really quickly from our Kitchener location how important lighting is in a salon, too, so that really helped us customize each station.” Even 70 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

though the walls are black, Leckie loved the art gallery feel, and the design team infused plenty of brightness to the space with the addition of two-foot white crown molding and white baseboards to outline the perimeter of the salon.

The Importance of Distinction Along with running a successful salon, Leckie is also building a brand, which means she is keenly aware of the need to create locations with their own distinct atmosphere. With that said, she understands the need to keep common elements that unite, and you’ll notice an attention to these details the moment you step onto the rich herringbone flooring found in both locations. “We kept some design elements similar to connect the brand, including the artwork, which features the same statement piece in both locations, and smaller details, including the hardware on cabinetry.

When it came to designing a space that maximized colour and hairstyling, Leckie thought long and hard before

settling on a colour bar, which has become the hub of the salon. “We created a colour island that has a metal trough in the centre for canisters, and it gets everyone more involved in the process,” she says.

Creating an atmosphere where hairstylists work as a team is an important factor in making clients from all backgrounds comfortable when they walk into So Lara. So is the atmospheric distinction between the locations. “When I think of our Guelph location, I feel it attracts more of a hipster vibe,” says Leckie. With plenty of Torontonians making the move to Guelph, she says having the salon situated in an area with unique businesses, including local artisans, retailers and restaurants, affords it a cool city vibe. For Leckie, it’s all about the experience—for both her team of hairstylists and her clients from the moment they walk through the door.

PHOTOS: BENOIT VERMETTE

BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO

DETAILS Opened February 2018 DESIGN Fiore + Greco SPACE 1,400 square feet TEAM 14 hairstylists 2 assistants BRANDS Goldwell Kevin.Murphy Oribe WEBSITE studiosolara.ca

salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 71

Twice a year, the Canadian L’Oréal Professionnel Artists get together to showcase the latest styling and colour techniques they’ve perfected, and share them with their L’Oréal squad.

The latest training focused on upcoming hairstyling trends for fall and winter 2018-2019, barbering and more natural approaches to hair colour.

When and where: August 12-13, Montreal

72 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

PHOTOS:L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, OLIGO PROFESSIONNEL, SALON STAFF, CONAIR PROFESSIONAL

Events —

L’Oréal Portfolio Artistic Training

It’s a first for Montreal-based Oligo Professionnel. The brand now has an academy in Montreal (in partnership with a spa), where artists from Canada and the U.S., will come in to train and learn the Oligo Professionnel education curriculum.

When and where: August 20, Montreal

Education Central

Welcome Back!

John Costanza has returned to the Conair Corporation as general manager and vice president of the professional division. Previously the leader of the brand’s international markets in the professional group, Costanza departed the company in 2017. He was also the former general manager for L’Oréal USA and spent 15 years as the group vice president for Sally Beauty Holding Canada and BSG UK. In his new role with Conair, Costanza will be overseeing the P&L of the global division, leading and executing brand’s strategy and growth plans, including new product development.

Scoop —

Wella Professionals has built a new education studio in the heart of Toronto’s vibrant Liberty Village neighbourhood. The nearly 5,000 squarefoot space includes two classrooms and a theory room, combining practical hands-on learning with in-depth theoretical education. “We want our Toronto studio to be a platform for all professional hairstylists to learn and share amongst the Canadian hairstyling community,” says Sherman Wong, education leader for Wella Canada. For more information and to book classes, visit wellabooking.com/eventscanada.aspx.

Sa lon Ma ga z ine .ca

Oligo Professionnel Opens Academy

A FRESH NEW LOOK AT YOUR FINGERTIPS SalonMag salonmagazine

Salon_Magazine SalonMagazine salonmagazine.ca / October 2018 73

Salon Stories —

Spreading the Love Hairstylists share how Salon has inspired them in their professional journeys over the past 25 years.

I N S P I R AT I O N C E N T R A L

— YANNICK BRISEBOIS, A QUEBEC-BASED HAIRSTYLIST AND PORTFOLIO ARTIST FOR L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

C R E AT I V E E N E RG Y

“We can’t think of one salon that does not have a copy of Salon. If you want to see a copy, all you have to do is walk into our lunchroom. It stays new for about a week or so, and then the staff start cutting out inspiration pieces and taping them to the lockers. Each issue brings not only Canadian beauty to the forefront, but it also keeps us connected to the international hair world.”

— MARILISA SEARS, ARTISTIC DIRECTOR FOR MARC ANTHONY SALONS, TORONTO

74 salonmagazine.ca / October 2018

MEMORY LANE JOIN THE CELEBRATION BY SHARING YOUR FAVOURITE MEMORIES WITH US FROM THE PAST 25 YEARS. IF YOU HAVE ANY STORIES TO SHARE, PLEASE EMAIL ANNALEE@ SALONMAGAZINE.CA. Created by Kaitlin Till-Landry from the Noun Project

PHOTOS: SALON MAGAZINE AND CONTESSA AWARDS ARCHIVES

Congratulations to Salon on their 25th anniversary. It’s a true love story with the beauty industry for 25 years.

Special thanks for supporting the hairdressing industry and being the reference for hair trends in Canada.

Year after year, you support artists by showcasing their work to inspire others, and this is how you’ve created a sense of community, as well. Kudos!

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