Salon Magazine, October 2019

A R E YOU CU T T I NG I T ?

T I P S FOR W E T A N D DRY H A I RC U T T I NG

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C ON T E S SA 31 SE M I-F I NA L IST S !

Accelerate Your Education OCTOBER 2019

salonmagazine.ca

18 INTERMIXABLE SHADES. FOR ALL BASES. #GLOWLIKEAPRO | WWW.LOREALPROFESSIONNEL.CA | WWW.WHYLOREALPRO.CA

H EALTHY HAIR THAT GLOWS FROM WITHIN • BOOSTED IN COOL PIGMENTS FOR A NEUTRALIZED LOOK • 4x MORE TRANSPARENCY* AND +50% LIGHT REFLECTION** • IN-DEPTH PERMANENT TRANSFORMATION

*

vs L’Oréal Professionnel Hair Colour. ** vs non-treated hair.

CND, SHELLAC, VINYLUX, BRISA, RETENTION+, SOLAROIL and STICKEY are trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc. ©2019 Creative Nail Design, Inc.

Corset by The Blonds Modeled by Jan Arnold

FIRSTS

SOLARNAIL FIRST EVER patented cross-linked polymer resin by Dr. Nordstrom.

1981

BRAND OF

1978

BOOT CAMP TRAINING FIRST EVER science-based fact-driven higher level learning program for nails and for Education Ambassadors; from 3 days back then to 7 days today!

SOLAROIL™ FIRST EVER nail plasticizer with jojoba oil to keep nails flexible and cuticles hydrated.

1986

FIRST EVER systemic approach to spa pedicure; marine derived; CND owns the trademark for SpaPedicure.™

PARTNERED

NYC FASHION WEEK

1997

FIRST EVER selfadhering L&P polymer system with no roughing or primer for excellent adhesion to keratin.

Still the gold standard, after all these years!

1998

RETENTION+™ L&P

FIRST EVER brand to put nails on the fashion runways.

FIRST EVER CND sells to Revlon - the company that invented ‘matching lips and tips’ trend.

1995

SPAPEDICURE™

STICKEY™ BASE COAT FIRST EVER anchoring, anti-peeling base coat for traditional nail polish. Still wins awards today!

2010

+

CND™ SHELLAC™ FIRST EVER gel polish hybrid, creating the gel polish category and changing the industry forever.

2004 BRISA™ GEL FIRST EVER nonacrylate hard gel, with greater control and lower potential to allergic reaction.

CND™ VINYLUX™ FIRST EVER long-wear polish, creating another new category within the industry.

2013

THE FUTURE MUCH MORE TO COME...

W E N REPAIR+ PERMANENT CRÈME COLOR

UNLOCK HAIR’S YOUTH POTENTIAL Collagen-infused haircolor. For youthful-looking hair.

Experience 5 FLAWLESS FEATURES: • 100% gray coverage • Body & bounce* • Manageability and softness** • Up to 2X the shine*** • Helps prevent breakage****

BOND-BUILDING ARGININE A naturally occurring amino acid crucial to hair’s strength, Arginine helps to protect hair and reduce breakage in every single treatment. Reinforced locks also improve the signs of damage and aging.

* With K-PAK® Color Therapy™ Shampoo and Conditioner ** With K-PAK Color Therapy Shampoo and Conditioner on damaged hair *** vs. untreated damaged hair **** Combing breakage on damaged hair with K-PAK Color Therapy Shampoo and Conditioner vs. non-conditioning shampoo

JOICO.CA

2019 Joico® Laboratories, Imported by Piidea Canada, Mississauga, ON, L5N 6C3 HAIR & COLOR Larisa Love PHOTO Hama Sanders

©

SEVEN-TIME WINNER of "Best Hair Extension Brand"

Premium Quality.

Ethically Sourced.

100% Customizable.

WORLD LEADING HAIR EXTENSIONS

Open the door to empowerment, opportunity and creativity with Great Lengths Canada. Apply for Certification today.

VIS IT G RE AT L E NGTHSCANADA .CO M

CONGRATULATIONS TO ALL THE CONTESSA SEMI-FINALISTS!

1-800-461-9302 info@greatlengthscanada.com

P RO U D S P O N S O R O F T H E CO N T E S S A AWA R D S

@greatlengthscanada

#greatlengthscanada

September 2019

36 F E AT U R E

Making the Cut

Sharpen up your technical skills with our guide to wet and dry cutting.

38 F E AT U R E

What You Won’t Learn in Beauty School

Whether you’re a hairstylist or salon owner, these tips will help you master everything from communication skills to money management.

48

41

CONTE SSA 30 F I N A L I S T, CA N A D I A N H A IRSTYLIST OF THE Y E A R , MELISSA D U G UAY, E C C E N T R I C H A IR STUDIO, MONCTON, N.B.

I N S P I R AT I O N

Collections

The Fellowship for British Hairdressing Colour Project; Rachel Vitullo; Sabrina Fetterkind; Melissa Duguay

52 F E AT U R E

“Education is meant to be shared, so people learn and get better.”

Contessa 2020 SemiFinalists!

See who made the cut for the 31st annual Contessa Awards!

—JOAN NOVAK, A CONTESSA AWARD-WINNING HAIRSTYLIST BASED IN WHISTLER, B.C.

ON THE COVER: HAIR: THE FELLOWSHIP FOR BRITISH HAIRDRESSING COLOUR PROJECT 2019, LED BY PAUL DENNISON, U.K., MAKEUP: LUCY FLOWER, STYLING: STACEY JANE SHAW, PHOTO: RICHARD MILES salonmagazine.ca / October 2019 11

14

Editor’s Letter

16

54

Publisher’s Note

C O N T E S S A GA L L E RY

James Abu-Ulba

18

Find out where this Elite Master Hairstylist finalist finds his inspiration, and how he continues to learn.

L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L

SalonMagazine.ca

From hair inspo to how-tos to #ContessaAwards central, we have it all covered online!

21

44

55

R AC H E L V ITULLO, JOEY S CA N D I Z Z O SA LON, AU S T R A L I A

BUSINESS

Growing with Extensions

W H AT ’ S N E W

Hairlines

Learn how incorporating hair extensions into your salon can help increase your revenue and clientele.

Freshen up your product repertoire with the latest care, colour and styling launches.

56 P RO F I L E

Never Not Learning

Get to know Calgary-based hairstylist Wendy Bélanger, who’s always learning—even when she’s teaching.

58 INTER IORS

Calm and Cozy

Peek inside this minimalisticdesigned—yet truly welcoming—Toronto salon.

61 42 T H E F E L L OW S H I P FOR BR ITISH H A IR DR ESSING COLOUR P ROJ E C T 2 0 1 9, L E D BY PAU L D E N N I S O N , U . K .

W H AT ’ S H A P P E N I N G

Events + Scoop

66 SA LON STOR IE S

Find Your Classmates

Two hairstyling powerhouses get real about live vs. digital education.

12 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

INTRODUCING

OUR BEST RANGE FOR LONG LASTING CURL DEFINITION These new NUTRICURLS products provide your wavy and curly clients with the right level of nourishment for beautiful bouncy locks. The special NOURISH-IN Complex with wheat bran extract and jojoba oil helps to make the curls defined, soft and manageable, while reducing frizz.

Seal in nourishment and lock out the humidity with EIMI NUTRICURLS styling products. Make curls even more defined and fight frizz... for up to 72 hours! Finally a complete and tailored specialty line for your curly clients. © 2019 THE WELLA CORPORATION, CALABASAS, CA 91302 1-800-935-5273 (USA) 1-800-267-1962 (Canada)

Editor’s Letter — 255 Knights Armour

254 Mauve Regalia

253 Antique Granite

252 Starlit Cobblestone

251 Angelic Statue

FALL 2019 COLLECTION

BIOSCULPTURENAILS.COM | 1-877-424-6435 Follow us on FB @BioSculptureGelCanada and IG @EvoGelCanada

14 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

Here are two truths that may surprise you: We become the people we surround ourselves with, and education doesn’t always take place in a classroom.

In fact, the latter is likely to be happening right now in your salon. Take a look around and you may catch a glimpse of one hairstylist observing another’s work. That’s education at its best and when it’s most organic.

When I spoke with Wendy Bélanger for this issue’s profile, she explained that she’s found that the way to get the most out of her team is by zeroing in on learning opportunities. In fact, she encourages her team to maximize the rare downtime they do have, by practicing their craft with one another.

All of this education really happens at its optimal level with the right combination of hairstylists on your team. That means having a diverse staff mix wherein each individual contributes with different sets of skills. It’s acknowledging and capitalizing on the fact that everyone offers something that will truly set your salon apart.

Along with a jam-packed issue that will have you thinking about learning in new ways, you’ll also find our much-anticipated announcement of this year’s Contessa semi-finalists in these pages. In case you missed it, early bird tickets for the 31st annual Contessa Awards are now available—we can’t wait!

Anna Lee Boschetto Editor-in-Chief

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

Learning Everyday

C A R E - INF US ED C O LO R DEPO S ITING MAS KS Seven curated shades designed to refresh, enhance or play with your color…without commitment.

MoroccanoilProfessionals.com

Salon Magazine ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 28, ISSUE 8 SALONMAGAZINE.CA EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Anna Lee Boschetto annalee@salonmagazine.ca

Publisher’s Note —

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Stephanie Gallant stephanie@salonmagazine.ca EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH) Yasmin Grothé yasmin@salonmagazine.ca MANAGING EDITOR Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca DIGITAL EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lucy Mazzucco lucy@salonmagazine.ca CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner, Paul C

GROUP PUBLISHER Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jordan Miandro jordan@salonmagazine.ca PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca

School of Creativity

Laura Dunphy Publisher

16 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca

Salon Magazine 183 Bathurst Street Suite 202, Toronto, ON, M5T 2R7 T. 416.869.3131

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Address Changes helpdesk@subscriptions.salon or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10 Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.) Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANACARREIRO

I’m always fascinated by how hairstylists create amazing, avant-garde runway looks. And let’s be clear—I’m not just talking about chignons. I’m referring to those intricate, highly detailed styles that look like they take hours to create. From detailed woven braiding to variations of hair colour applications (think: hair painting), these are techniques not taught in beauty school.

In fact, I was so impressed with Australian (and now New York-based) hairstylist Richard Mannah’s Instagram feed, which is filled with styles created by intermixing safety pins with braids, that it literally stopped me in my tracks. Along with having the refined skill required for this innovative technique, it’s his creative thinking that really stands out. “No matter how experienced we become, practice is essential.

Being creative requires making time to learn new techniques. When I recently created infinity braids with metal bars for an edgy look, it came from practice,” says Richard Mannah.

At the core of every risk-taking stylist is a desire to learn and to master beauty school fundamentals. By experimenting with different techniques or creative ideas, you are, in effect, expanding your repertoire of work—even if you don’t get it right the first time. Not only will facing your weaknesses head-on help you grow in your abilities, you’ll also be opening the door to taking on new clients and making more money. Start paying more attention to the technicality and precision required to craft different cuts and colour techniques. I have often found that when I take the time to focus on the details, I develop a new appreciation for the effort that goes into executing a certain look.

Regardless of the type of work that fuels your passion and creativity, education and determination are the keys that can open doors for you (and your staff!), no matter what you’re looking to learn next. In this issue, we’ve loaded our pages with tips to inspire you to press forward into new territories of skill. The bottom line: If you’re not thinking about what you’re learning next, it’s time to reassess how you think!

OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca

This magazine is recyclable.

Please recycle where Printed on recyclable paperPRINTED IN CANADA facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail helpdesk@ subscriptions.salon. Our privacy officer is Adrian Holland.

This project has been made possible [in part] by the Government of Canada.

CND, SHELLAC and VINYLUX are trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc. ©2019 Creative Nail Design, Inc. Nail artist: Winnie Huang.

CRYSTAL ALCHEMY INSPIRED BY

S WA R OVS K I

®

C RYS TA L S

Follow us @CNDCanada

cnd.com/find-distributor

Rebellious Ruby

Divine Diamond

Sassy Sapphire

Powerful Hematite

Sassy Sapphire

Lovely Quartz

Sassy Sapphire

NEW PRECIOUS SHADES.

salonmagazine.ca ➣

Contessa The 31st annual Contessa Awards are one month away!

Questions about the gala?

Visit SalonMagazine.ca to purchase tickets and find out everything you need to know.

Work in Beauty Are you in search of a new job or new talent? Visit our job board on SalonMagazine.ca to post a job or browse our listings.

18 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

➣

JOBS

Hair Love Find out how to create this trendy half-pony and more hairstyles at SalonMagazine.ca.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: HAIR: SARAH LUND, KEVIN.MURPHY; HAIR & STYLING: HARLEY LOBASSO, MAKEUP: JENA VOE, PHOTOS: KALE FRIESEN; GETTY

With autumn in full swing, get inspired to play with colour by visiting our collection archive at SalonMagazine.ca.

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Fallen Leaves

T h e

S y n e r g y

o f

M u l t i p l e

I n n o v a t i o n s

TM

FALL’S FORECAST IS FILLED WITH COOL AND WARM NATURAL TONES, AND NEW PRODUCTS AND TOOLS TO KEEP YOU ON YOUR A-GAME.

PHOTO: SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

➣ For Schwarzkopf Professional’s Essential Looks collection for autumn/winter 2019, the brand spotlights three key hair trends with colour, high-shine and texture.

In the pictured look, classic brunette colour is elevated with on-trend warmer tones for a rich, multidimensional look.

To see the full collection, visit SalonMagazine.ca.

salonmagazine.ca / October 2019 21

➣

Colour Care

Hairlines — NEWS

Help clients boost their colour with Goldwell’s Dualsenses Color Revive.

Is that gorgeous colour you’ve created not getting the care it deserves?

Goldwell’s Dualsenses Color Revive is designed to refresh and boost colour in between salon visits. Color Revive Giving Conditioners are available in eight shades and are formulated for daily use or can be left on for up to five minutes for an intense colour refresh.

The line’s Color Revive Root Retouch Powders are available in five shades and are perfect for covering grey or root regrowth, while also working to absorb excess oil and sebum on hair.

➣

Smoke Zone

In case you haven’t heard, smoky blonde (aka. toasted marshmallow) is one of the season’s “it” shades. Help your clients get the look with the new #SmokeyBlonde shades from Wella Professionals Color Touch. Three new demi-permanent shades (7/86, 9/86, 9/96) have been added to the brand’s Rich Naturals collection. These iridescent shades are ammonia-free, and create shiny, multidimensional results. And thanks to their Light 2 Color Complex, they create lightness to emphasize hair’s natural highs and lows.

Down to Earth Get cool brown tones with Schwarzkopf’s Igora Earthy Clay and Ashy Cedar.

As temperatures cool down, hair colour does, too—at least for some clients. Create matte and cool brown looks with the new Igora Earthy Clay and Ashy Cedar shades from Schwarzkopf Professional. Available in the brand’s Igora Royal and Igora Vibrance, the permanent and demi-permanent shades offer versatility with long-lasting or low-commitment colour. Plus, they provide neutralization when lifting or highlighting darker bases. The new shades have been brought to life in Schwarzkopf Professional’s Essential Looks collection for autumn/winter 2019. Visit SalonMagazine.ca to see the collection.

22 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

PHOTO: GOLDWELL CANADA, WELLA PROFESSIONALS, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

Create fall’s must-have look with Wella Professionals Color Touch #SmokeyBlonde shades.

NEW A NEW CARE LINE INSPIRED BY OUR AWARD WINNING DARK OIL

THE

DARK OIL LINEUP

3X Smoother* hair with a lightweight finish A regimen to which rules don’t apply, inspired by our iconic styling oil, leveraging its unique benefits: mesmerizing fragrance and lightweight finish to give you smooth & shiny hair with natural body.

*Shampoo, Mask and Dark Oil vs non-conditioning Shampoo www.sebastianprofessional.com facebook.com/SebastianPro © 2019 THE WELLA CORPORATION, CALABASAS, CA 91302 1-800-935-5273 (USA) 1-800-267-1962 (Canada)

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Sheer Beauty

Hairlines — NEWS

SHINE ON

Discover the versatility of Oligo’s Calura Gloss.

Create natural, luminous colour with L’Oréal Professionnel’s Majirel GLOW. It’s official! The hair colour paradigm has shifted, and more clients are now opting for a natural look.

L’Oréal Professionnel’s Majirel GLOW is the brand’s first translucent permanent colour line designed to create a transparent yet luminous finish. With a palette of 18 shades (and one clear), Majirel GLOW simultaneously lifts and neutralizes to create shiny, lightreflecting hair that’s four times more transparent than traditional Majirel colour. Plus, it can be applied to natural and colour-treated hair with 30 per cent less greys, and is perfect for creating those effortlessly cool “French chic” vibes.

The brand’s breakthrough demipermanent liquid colour offers superior conditioning and shine, thanks to its formulation of hydrolyzed vegetable protein and acid fruit extract, plus alcohol-free water base. There’s zero-lift, so you can easily tone, gloss, enhance, blend or correct colour. Calura Gloss includes 58 intermixable shades that feature 24 toners, along with two developers available in gel or cream.

Bonus: It’s PPD free!

➣ Get thicker-looking hair with Alterna’s Clinical Densifying line.

This three-piece system is formulated with the brand’s signature caviar extract containing amino and Omega-3 Fatty acids, along with Red Clover Densifying Complex for creating fuller-looking hair. Designed to improve texture and thickness with daily use, the shampoo removes dirt, excess sebum and environmental residue that can clog the follicles, and the Leave-In Treatment and Styling Mousse help promote thicker-looking hair.

Pump Up the Volume Get red carpet-worthy results with Joico’s JoiFull line.

Let’s face it: With the holidays around the corner, clients will want to be at the top of their beauty game. JoiFull is a three-piece care and styling line designed to help them achieve full, bouncy, picture-perfect hair. The volumizing shampoo gently cleanses hair while adding lightweight body, and the conditioner nourishes and detangles hair. But the line’s crèmegelée hybrid styler is the hero product that adds lift to the hair while providing protection from humidity and thermal damage up to 450°F. 24 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

PHOTO: OLIGO PROFESSIONNEL, L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, ALTERNA, JOICO, SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL, HAIR: SALLY BROOKS, BROOKS & BROOKS, LONDON, U.K., MAKEUP: LAN NGUYEN-GREALIS, STYLING: ANN SHORE, PHOTO: JENNY HANDS, DANNYCO PROFESSIONAL

FULL BLOOM

Hairlines — NEWS

The Big Reveal!

Get ready to be inspired at L’Oréal Professionnel’s Exposed in Toronto.

Mark your calendars! On October 27th, L’Oréal Professionnel will bring together its Canadian ambassadors Crystal Brown, Mandy MacFadden and Paul Miller, international Le Collectif team member Min Kim, and British artists Brooks & Brooks (Sally Brooks and Jamie Brooks) to showcase cut, styling and colour trends, and to introduce the brand’s new Majirel GLOW.

NEW A DDITION

Sebastian Professional unveils its Dark Oil care and styling line.

Since its launch in 2016, Dark Oil has become one of Sebastian Professional’s signature and bestselling products. Now, the brand is building on that success with its Dark Oil care and styling collection. The four new products include a lightweight shampoo, conditioner, mask and fragrant mist—all formulated with a blend of oils, including argan and jojoba, for smoother hair. Even better, they each provide lightweight texture and shine with the brand’s signature Dark Oil scent!

To learn more and to purchase tickets, visit lpeducation.ca.

| T O O L B OX

Graphite Titanium by BaBylissPRO

| Dual technology (graphite and titanium) for smooth glide and superior heat

Contains ceramic, a natural source for far-infrared heat |

Ion generator emits millions of negative ions for smoother, shiny results

“These high-end thermal styling tools have new technology that makes sure they perform as good as they look. With the unique combination of graphite and titanium, these tools allow for less passes on the hair for styles that last all day.”

— DON WYATT, NATIONAL DIRECTOR OF SHOWS AND EDUCATION FOR DANNYCO PROFESSIONAL salonmagazine.ca / October 2019 25

➣ Hairlines — NEWS

A “Square” Solution Find out how one salon owner has streamlined his business with the new Square Terminal.

10 reasons to try Neuma’s neuBody & Mind.

Age-Defying Replenishing Oil —

Nourishes dry, dehydrated skin

—

Lightweight oil that’s fast, and easily absorbed

—

Penetrates deep into the skin without any residue

—

Protects skin from environmental stressors

—

Powered by bergamot for an aromatherapeutic experience

Age-Defying Restoring Crème —

Restores skin’s elasticity

—

Offers long-lasting hydration

—

Creates healthierlooking skin

—

Offers smooth results without any stickiness

—

Powered by frankincense and myrrh for an aromatherapeutic experience

26 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

Ring the Alarm!

Restore hair from the inside out with the 911 Quinoa series from Biotop Professional.

Give dry, damaged hair a new lease on life with this eight-piece collection that contains 10 per cent pure quinoa extracts.

Combined with a blend of essential oils and vitamin E, the line is designed to repair and protect damaged hair.

Since launching in Canada in 2018, Biotop Professional has taken the Canadian market by storm—with professional distribution from coast to coast!

PHOTO: SQUARE CANADA, BIOTOP PROFESSIONAL, NEUMA, SONY PICTURES PUBLICITY, WAHL PROFESSIONAL, DYSON CANADA

N U R T U R E D BY N AT U R E

This past summer, Salon was invited to the exclusive Canadian launch of the Square Terminal, a new, all-in one portable device that helps simplify payment processing. Not only does the Square Terminal have a more modern design when compared to many traditional payment terminals— it doesn’t come with excessive fees or long-term contracts, making it an ideal solution for small business owners. “It allows me to do everything. Clients can tap, swipe or insert their cards, and I can email, text or print their receipts.

It’s a real space-saver,” says Troy Mertz, owner of Republic of Hair in Toronto.

“Plus, since it’s portable, I can bring it over to a client and they can pay while sitting in their chair. It’s also great if you’re working out of a suite or on-set.”

Man Made

➣

Celebrity Connections Here’s how ColorProof’s CEO Jim Markham came to be involved in the Hollywood blockbuster, Once Upon a Time in Hollywood.

Hairlines — NEWS

Find out how the Wahl 1919 men’s hair and grooming line puts the professional first.

Celebrating its 100th anniversary this year, Wahl Professional is recognized for being a leader in men’s hair and grooming appliance tools. To commemorate the milestone, the brand has released its Wahl 1919 product line.

With 11 products designed for men’s haircare, styling, beard and skin, it's designed with barbers and hairstylists in mind. The biggest point of difference?

All products are in tube packaging (not pucks) to make handling, dispensing and application easier and faster.

THE BACKSTORY Jay Sebring was considered one of Hollywood’s OG celebrity hairstylists. Due to his untimely passing, Jim Markham took over Sebring’s company, which included salons and a product line. A hairstylist himself, Markham had originally moved from New Mexico to Hollywood to work with Sebring, then established his career styling celebrities from Paul Newman to Steve McQueen to Johnny Carson.

How did your involvement in the movie come about?

We were excited to hear about the film, especially when I heard Tarantino was involved. One of the things they wanted from me was my paraphernalia, including Sebring products, tools and brushes. I also helped them get the shears that Jay used, and I gave them a shot list of the clients that came to his salon.

What were some of the trends we see now that originated at that time?

Why is it important for hairstylists to hear the stories and the history from original celebrity hairstylists?

I think it’s important for stylists to know the beginning of Hollywood celebrity styling. Jay Sebring was big news—he was a fantastic hair cutter. His method of cutting the shape into the hair was really unique in how it framed the face. It would really create a superior look.

➣

In the ’70s we kept it full on the sides with a sideburn, and shorter on top. The perfect haircut for a man was one that didn’t have hard lines or blocking. We’ve now redeveloped the ’70s cut to keep it fuller on the sides, and our educators are teaching how to really give it a fresh look.

M O R E T O L OV E

Dyson unveils two new attachments for its Supersonic hair dryer.

There’s no doubt that since its release, the Supersonic Professional has been a game changer. And now, Dyson has launched two attachments to help make drying and styling hair even easier.

The Wide Tooth Comb is designed for curly hair to shape, lift and detangle hair via the comb’s larger teeth and flexible torsion bar.

The Gentle Air Dryer is designed to provide a fast and gentle drying experience for fine hair and sensitive scalps, thanks to its softer, more diffused airflow.

salonmagazine.ca / October 2019 27

Get to know some classic and emerging brands— founded by Canadians!

➣

FastFoils

Launched by well-known Quebec stylist and educator Ludovic Leroy, this eponymous brand is becoming an industry leader for hairdressers and colourists who want to perfect their skills. Ludovic Leroy tools allow you to gain precision in execution and to apply new techniques to satisfy even the most demanding clients.

➣

Chovain

28 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

➣

On-demand beauty services have finally arrived in Canada via Chovain. The new app is the brainchild of two entrepreneurs who moved to a different city and realized they didn’t know where to find an amazing hairstylist or awesome nail expert. So they created the vehicle to help locate them!

The Unicorn Palette

Redavid

Is your colouring routine a hot mess? This streamlined colouring tool helps you stay organized with six compartments, and features a compact design that’s a real space-saver. Bonus: It includes six brushes that conveniently attach to the side of each compartment.

With more than three decades of hairstyling experience, it’s safe to say that Leonardo Redavid knows hair. So much so that when it came to the creation of his namesake company, he looked to source the finest ingredients and skin-grade science for his products. The brand’s hero line, Orchid Oil, is a curl cure—ideal for hydrating curls and creating superior shine while protecting against frizz. Plus, all of Redavid’s products are made in Vancouver!

PHOTO: BRAVE & BEARDED, FASTFOILS, THE UNICORN PALETTE, REDAVID, LUDOVIC LEROY, REVLON PROFESSIONAL, PAGE 29 TEXT: YASMIN GROTHÉ

Montreal-based Brave & Bearded is expanding! The line, which was originally launched with a beard oil and beard balm, has grown to showcase shampoos, hair pomades and body washes.

According to Max Fortin, the brave and bearded guy behind the home-grown brand, there is no fluff to these products.

“Just ingredients that work all day!”

Ludovic Leroy ➣

Brave & Bearded

➣

For many busy hairstylists, saving time and earning more money are top of mind. Toronto-based salon owner, Ben Barkworth, had this in mind when he founded FastFoils. As colour services tend to go longer, this product reduces your processing time by up to 25 per cent, thanks to its unique black coating that provides superior heat transfer and distribution.

➣

Hairlines — CANADIAN

Made in Canada

➣ Hairlines — COLOUR

PIGMENT-RICH MASKS SHOULD BE PART OF YOUR COLOUR KIT TO ANSWER THE GROWING NEED FOR TEMPORARY AND HIGHLY CUSTOMIZABLE SHADES.

Magic Masks Now that pastel hair has become a true, modern classic, some clients are craving more intense and less traditional hues.

In fact, you are probably noticing that more clients want a hair colour as unique (and sometimes as temporary) as their personality. Enter the coloured mask.

“These deposit-only coloured masks, such as Nutri Color 3-in-1 from Revlon Professional, provide hair with incredible shine, while deeply conditioning at the same time. You use them to boost a fading colour, or to give your client a real preview of a shade they’re interested in without immediately committing to it,” says Jean-Sébastien Chalut, a global master artist for Revlon Professional.

Another way to include these masks in a colour service is when you want to show a client what her hair would look like with lowlights. Apply the product and leave on for three to 15 minutes under heat. The effect will last from three to five shampoos.

“What’s great about the entire Nutri Color line is that it’s been reformulated and now you can use it with heat," says Chalut. "It offers an entirely new colour option for clients who usually shy away from colour.”

Pigment-Rich Hues Although the idea of a conditioner to boost an existing shade is not entirely new, the most recent crop of these colour depositing masks bring with them a palette of rich new shades to tempt even the most traditional client to go bold for, say, a special event like a bachelorette party. The new Color Depositing Masks from Moroccanoil offer a jolt of intensity with shades like Aquamarine, Hibiscus, and Rose Gold, which provide a stunning effect.

And if you're worried about how they’ll hold up with shades of red, don’t be. These masks are also ideal for your client who

loves to sport reddish hair. By the way, this palette is making a big splash for fall 2019.

Also, keep in mind that Red Color Butter from Joico can be a quick colour refresher, top coat or treatment for dry, damaged redheads who tend to fade quickly. “It’s a moisturizing and strengthening treatment with a refreshing level of hair colour added for extra punch,” says Melissa Duguay, a Canadian platform artist for Joico.

Ultra-Customizable Because these coloured masks are formulated with direct pigments, they can be intermixed for endless, vibrant colour possibilities. Your imagination—and your client’s willingness— is your only limitation. “If you’re working on a level nine or 10, what you see in the mixing bowl is the result you will get. It’s really foolproof!” says Chalut.

In the case of pastels, or semi-permanent vintage shades, these masks also help refresh fading colour, which can be a game changer for clients who wash their hair everyday or are beach bound. And for situations where you’ve just created a fab pastel, know that you can customize a pigmented mask your client will use on a regular basis, at home, to ensure her colour stays fresh longer. “The client leaves with a unique product, made just for her,” says Chalut. “The beauty of these coloured masks is that they are very easy to create, thanks to the different shades that are available to the colourist.” salonmagazine.ca / October 2019 29

C ROW N J E W E L S

Hairlines — NAILS

CELEB NA IL LOOKS

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Rock ‘n’ Rolling

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Entity Redefine fall nail looks with Layered in Luxury from the Style Reimagined collection.

ORLY Fall “Into the Deep” with this charcoal grey shade from the Dreamscape collection.

Celebs ruled the 2019 MTV Video Music Awards red carpet with their sparkly, showstopping nail looks. Here's who made our cut.

4 The 2019 Song of the Year went to Old Town Road by Lil Nas X, who donned a mani featuring his rap moniker.

5 Rapper Cardi B showed off her “rich” extralong, coffin-shaped ombre gold chrome nails.

6 There’s only one Taylor Swift, and she sported an eye-catching purple glittery mani.

Bio Sculpture There’s nothing like Nights in Rome, featuring the shimmering shade, Starlit Cobblestone.

➣ SH EER PER FECTION

Take nails to the dark side with Beaula from Evo

by Bio Sculpture.

With Halloween just around the corner, more clients will want to embrace their dark sides, with deeper nail colours. Evo by Bio Sculpture’s Beaula is a transparent black shade that allows clients to experiment with darker hues without feeling like they’ve crossed into goth territory. Perfect for patterns and intricate linework, Beaula can help take your nail art game to the next level.

30 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

Stroke of Genius Speed up your services with the CND Shellac Superior Brush.

The brand’s new curve-hugging brush allows for a smoother, easier polish application since it effortlessly glides over the nail. Plus, with a wider design it holds more product on the brush, which cuts down on the amount of times you need to re-dip it into the polish bottle.

Sounds pretty superior to us!

OPI Get #allthefeels with Boys Be Thistle-ing at Me, a metallic purple shade.

CND We can’t keep our lips sealed about this deep purple shade, Secret Diary.

PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM, ENTITY, ORLY, BIO SCULPTURE CANADA, OPI, CND, CND CANADA, THINKSTOCK BY GETTY IMAGES, PAGE 31 TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN

1 Singer Lizzo was bold and beautiful on the red carpet with her glossy purple mani.

2 Don’t call it a comeback! Rapper Missy Elliott brought the glitz with Swarovski crystal-encrusted digits.

3 Singer Rosalia’s nails were dark and dazzling, featuring black crystals and studs with a hint of red underneath.

➣

Hairlines — NAILS

DISCOVER HOW SCULPTING GEL CAN HELP FIX AND CORRECT SOME OF THE MOST COMMON NAIL PROBLEMS.

Stand Corrected Though there’s been a trend for the last five years or so towards more natural nail services, nail enhancements are making a comeback. And while not every client can wear those extra-long, stiletto or coffin-shaped extensions, sculpting gel can be used for so much more. In fact, it can be a solution for everything from brittle-to-breakage-prone nails to correcting nail shape.

“Clients may think that [enhancements] damage the nail and that you have to give them a break every so often,” says Angélique Bricault, an educator for Bio Sculpture Canada based in Burlington, Ont. “If the products and techniques used respect the health and condition of the nail, ‘giving nails a break’ from nail services should never be required.”

Problem: Ridges “Bio Sculpture Base Gel is applied to the nail and the application is thick enough to fill in the ridges.

The entire process takes less than an hour and lasts approximately three weeks.”

– Angélique Bricault, educator for Bio Sculpture Canada

Bio Sculpture Base Gel PRO TIP It’s important to fill the ridges rather than file them down, since filing can cause thinning of the nail plate.

Problem: Ski-Jump Nails “If nails are sloping down or curving, we’ll file the sides and build the top with gel so you can’t see the issue anymore. We sculpt a brand new nail by putting a sticker or form on the natural nail, and instead of just gluing tips on, we tuck a form underneath the nail bed so it’s nice and smooth.” – Linda Ly, education ambassador for CND Canada Problem: Strengthening Weak/Brittle Nails “Brittle nails are prone to chipping at the free edge, so overlays will protect the nail from chipping.

Capping the free edge with gel will also make the application more durable.” – Angélique Bricault Problem: Short Nail Beds “For clients with short nail beds, we can create the illusion of elongated nails with enhancements by using a different colour that’s a blush or rosy tone.

We stretch out the free edge so nail beds will look longer. It also prevents clients from having chicletlooking nails.” – Linda Ly

“ENHANCEMENTS CAN LOOK SO REAL, MIMICKING THE LOOK OF A NATURAL NAIL.”

CND Brisa Sculpting Gel in Clear, Brisa Bond and Brisa Gloss

Bio Sculpture Medium or Hard Gel (for overlays) and Bio Sculpture Free Edge Gel

CND Brisa Sculpting Gel in Warm Pink Semi Sheer

–LINDA LY, A VANCOUVER-BASED EDUCATION AMBASSADOR FOR CND CANADA salonmagazine.ca / October 2019 31

Hairlines — MEN

➣

FOR THE MOST KICKASS CUTS FOR MEN, WHEN DO YOU CHOOSE THE CLIPPER, SHEARS OR RAZOR? HERE ARE THE ANSWERS YOU’VE BEEN LOOKING FOR.

Best Cutting Tools In the last few years, the clipper has come back. But in order to complete your men’s haircutting arsenal, it should also include shears and razors for meeting your clients’ #hairgoals.

The Ultra-Versatile Clipper According to Oliver Kult, a Canadian national brand ambassador for BaBylissPro, the clipper is his go-to. “It’s the most versatile tool for cutting men’s hair. I don’t really do scissor over comb a lot. I maximize the use of my cutting guides with the clipper, and I keep changing them as I go along.”

“With about 80 per cent of men’s haircuts being on the shorter side, I reach for my clippers first to map out the haircut and find the length my client is comfortable with,” says Paul Pereira, a Toronto-based men’s hairstylist and Schwarzkopf Professional educator.

“Then I’ll use shears for blending the top and sides.”

Clippers are also gaining momentum for women’s haircuts, thanks to the popularity of undercuts. “Using clippers gives you the precision you need for women’s undercuts. You can get a really tight line, especially when it’s dry,” says Pereira.

Surprisingly, according to Kult, the clipper is ideal, too, for thinning hair.

“Some guys generally think that having longer hair on the sides is going to camouflage the fact that the hair is thinning at the top. What you really want is to have very short hair on the sides and longer on the top. It gives the illusion of fuller hair.”

32 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

Shear Genius The goal for men’s hair is to create square shapes and bold lines that will give hair that masculine edge. “For this, the ideal shear is a long one. I really like an eight-inch scissor that will practically go around the head for creating a smooth, clean line,” says Kult. “As a barber, you need to have a clear idea of the type of haircut you want to create as soon as your client sits in your chair.”

Kult has three types of shears in his kit: four, six and eight inches “for different looks. I really like the four-inch shear to give a bit of texture and create the connection between different sections.”

The Razor for a Clean Finish The ultra-smooth finish is a popular trend, particularly for framing the face.

To create it, you need to invest in a highquality barbering razor.

While the razor has often been relegated to shaving the neckline, “we’re now creating a square line around the temples,” says Kult. “It’s called a sharp line up, and it’s a huge trend.” Instead of a natural hairline, the razor creates straight lines and sharp angles around the temples, forehead and sideburns.

“FOR A PERFECT HAIRCUT, YOU SHOULD ALWAYS WORK WITH CLIPPERS, SHEARS AND RAZORS, WITH SUPERB DETAILING. SO WHATEVER YOUR CLIENT’S HAIR TEXTURE IS, YOU HAVE EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO GET THE JOB DONE.” – OLIVER KULT, CANADIAN NATIONAL BRAND AMBASSADOR FOR BABYLISSPRO

CREATING YOUR BRAND USING SOCIAL MEDIA IS NOT AN EASY TASK. WHEN COMES TO CREATING EYECATCHING IMAGES AND ENGAGING VIDEOS, FIND OUT HOW THESE TWO PROS MAKE IT HAPPEN.

Hairlines — INFLUENCER CONNECTION

Influencer Connection

Edouard Martin Location Montreal IG @edouardclipperhand (18,000+ followers) Claim to Fame His urban, rock ‘n’ roll looks.

Tattoos and piercings not included!

PHOTO: DANNYCO PROFESSIONAL, EDOUARD MARTIN, KAITLIN WARD, PAGE 32 TEXT: YASMIN GROTHÉ

What are your tips for maximizing engagement on social platforms?

I organize a few photo shoots during the year and I improvise in the salon.

Even if it means I’m five minutes late for my next client, I take time to take a few photos of each client because I need to make sure I have an image of a hairstyle I’m proud of. My clients are used to that now; it’s part of the experience!

You have to connect with other accounts that have the same type of followers as you do. For example, hairstylists, barbers and colourists have to interact with people who are in the same business or interested in the industry. Interacting and appearing in the notifications of different people who follow the same hashtags as you do will make them curious. In turn, they will often respond to my pictures, and even start following me, after seeing the type of content I publish.

Kaitlin Ward Location Keswick, Ont. IG @kwhair_ (6,800+ followers) Claim to Fame Blonde specialist What is your best advice when it comes to content creation?

Creating content has become so much more important in our industry over the last few years. I’ve found it can be difficult to create posts that people actually want to read! You really need to think about what kind of posts you personally love to read. Ask yourself, “What does my scroll stopper look like?”

For me, trying to appeal to the hairstylist and the client can be tricky. I like to mix in a little history of my guests’ hair and what they’ve been experiencing, as well as tons of techniques and formulas to help other stylists achieve a similar look.

salonmagazine.ca / October 2019 33

Hairlines — EDITOR’S PICKS

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Freshly Picked

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JUST IN TIME FOR FALL, WE’VE ROUNDED UP OUR FAVOURITE STYLING PRODUCTS TO GET YOU SET FOR THE SEASON. 1 NEED A LIFT? Amika’s Thicc Volumizing Base is a styler and treatment hybrid that adds an instant boost of volume, body and thickness to hair. 2 STYLE EXTENSION Give your looks a refresh with DevaCurl’s DevaFresh Scalp & Curl Revitalizer, a lightweight spray that adds moisture, volume and definition for next-day curls. 3 THE OG Detangle the knottiest hair with Olivia Garden’s Detangler, designed for medium to thick hair. 4 CHANGE UP L’Oréal Professionnel’s Tecni.Art Texture Multi-Use Gel-toFoam adds light hold and volume without any stiffness. 5 SPARKLE AND SHINE Sexy Hair’s Bling it On is a glitter hairspray that’s perfect for adding some hair flair for Halloween and upcoming holiday events. 6 OOH LA LA Davines’ beloved Oi family just got bigger with the new Oi Hair Butter, containing roucou oil for strong, hydrated hair while preserving its colour and age.

34 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL C

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Making the C Three experts weigh in on the pros and cons of wet-cutting and drycutting. Plus, find out how utilizing both can take your haircuts to the next level.

Let’s face it: As one of the fundamentals they teach in hair school, cutting hair when it’s wet is pretty #basic. But with the rising demand for more textured hairstyles and fringes, there’s been a movement towards more dry-cutting techniques.

“When I first started [cutting hair] 40 years ago, there was no such thing as dry cutting. The French might have done it, but it wasn’t well recognized [around the world],” recalls Oscar Bond, an awardwinning hairstylist and lead educator for Hattori Hanzo Shears. “Now it’s done a complete 180. Now everyone wants a lot of texture, airiness and movement, so the hairstyles are more whimsical and fun. That doesn’t require wet haircutting and cutting hard lines, it takes dry hair and very broken lines to make that texture happen.”

“Dry cutting gives a fresh feel to the hair,” he adds. “You’re personalizing your work to each client’s head of hair. It makes us all a little more artistic and creative.”

Why Dry? While dry-cutting hair is great for creating more movement in the hair, there are even more benefits. “Some hairstylists cut dry because they want to see the shape of the haircut as they are cutting it,” says Morgan Roy, creative director for Civello Salon & Spa in Toronto. “Now, people are more informed, so when they’re cutting hair dry, they can cut off less, or true to length since the hair is not stretching the way it does when it’s wet.”

Making the First Cut Though chances are you’ve already been incorporating some dry-cutting techniques into your services, this movement towards dry-cutting has really changed the game. Roy says she’s even had clients request to have their hair cut dry, especially those that may be nervous about having length cut. “Once you know you’ve already been doing it, it will give you the confidence to go ahead and do a full haircut [dry],” she says.

“The key to cutting hair dry is making sure the client’s hair is an even texture all over.”

Cutting Curls Cutting curly hair can be tricky, depending on whether or not your curlyhaired clients embrace their natural texture. “Curly hair is a different fabric, so we must understand the limits and capabilities of fine and coarse curly hair,” says Sam Villa, global artistic ambassador for Redken. “The kinkier the curl, I’ll cut and dry freehand. It’s better off deconstructed; cut by visual look and feel based on the curvature of the curl.”

“THE HAIRCUT IS BACK! COLOUR HAS BEEN SO DOMINANT WITH BALAYAGE AND OMBRÉ, SO A LOT OF LENGTH HAS BEEN DESIRED. WHAT’S REALLY SPARKING THE HAIRCUT’S COMEBACK IS MORE PEOPLE GETTING THEIR HAIR LAYERED.” – SAM VILLA, GLOBAL ARTISTIC AMBASSADOR FOR REDKEN

36 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

PHOTOS: MORGAN ROY, HAIR: SAM VILLA ARTEAM, MAKEUP: NICOLE SCHIMEL, STYLING: BRITTANY HART, PHOTO: KATIE PARKER, HATTORI HANZO SHEARS, SAM VILLA

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

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Wet or Dry?

“IF YOU LOOK AT HAIR AS A FABRIC, IT REACTS DIFFERENTLY WHEN IT’S WET AND WHEN IT’S DRY. SO EVEN IF IT’S BENEFICIAL TO CUT SOMEONE’S HAIR WET INITIALLY, YOU ALWAYS WANT TO MAKE SURE IT LOOKS THE BEST WHEN IT’S DRY.” – MORGAN ROY, CREATIVE DIRECTOR FOR CIVELLO SALON & SPA, TORONTO

PRO-TIP WHEN BLOW-DRYING THE HAIR, VILLA SUGGESTS ASKING YOUR CLIENT TO PUT THEIR PHONE ON A TRIPOD SO YOU CAN RECORD A STYLING TUTORIAL FOR THEM AND CREATE A TRULY CUSTOMIZED EXPERIENCE.

PRO TIP CUTTING FRINGE WHEN IT’S DRY ALSO HELPS YOU DETERMINE IF THERE ARE ANY COWLICKS IN THE HAIR.

Go-To Tool: Hattori Hanzo HH1 The Kamikaze “Any shear that does dry hair will cut wet hair very easily. This is specifically a dry-cutting shear, so it glides through the hair.”

THE BOB “To enable precision cutting to work, the hair needed to be wet so you had more control over your sections and the lines you’re cutting. The end result is precise—precision edge.” – Sam Villa Go-To Tool: Sam Villa Signature Series 7-Inch Dry-Cutting Shear “A dry shear has more weight to it. It has more of a convex shape to it, and it’s normally a longer blade. Our seven-inch dry-cutting shear has a sword blade, which allowed us to place more weight into the action blade. I wanted to give the stylist the opportunity to pick up shears that are meant for dry-cutting because the edge is going to hold much longer.”

Combining Wet and Dry Combining wet and dry cutting techniques is quite common, especially when adding texture to more structured styles. As hairstylists, it’s important to be open to trying new things. “Hairdressers go where they are comfortable, but there’s danger in the comfort zone,” says Villa.

“They cannot rely on their favourite techniques because they don’t work on every fabric.”

Elevating the Experience First things first, cutting dry hair does not mean cutting dirty hair or cutting a client’s hair as soon as they walk into the salon. Now, clients are getting their hair shampooed and styled before hairdressers break out the shears. After all, you want the hair to be a clean, even canvas before you begin cutting.

Plus, you don’t want to sacrifice the salon experience for the client. “In the industry, we’ve moved into an experience economy,” says Villa. “Now, we’re creating a new experience for the client, and a new experience and sense of enthusiasm for the hairdresser.”

FRINGE “Years ago, fringe was just straight lines. Now there’s texture and shape. When fringe is dry, it looks different so you’re much safer cutting it dry. If anyone cuts a fringe wet, they are kind of foolish.” – Oscar Bond

The Shag Hands down, one of 2019’s trendiest cuts is the shag—from retro vibes to more modern interpretations.

“We’re seeing shags again because we’re moving from one extreme to the other. We were seeing a lot of bobs, so shag is fun because you’re seeing this shift of shape, and that’s stemming from mullets,” says Roy. “It’s a combination of dry and wet cutting. Wet when you want to remove a lot of hair or are building a new shape into the hair, and dry when refining the cut. It’s important to stand in front of person when cutting. Use a layering technique— cutting at front so that’s the shortest piece, and slowly working towards the back. Elevation is determined by how much layering you want.”

THE LOB “I’ll put my shape in there first wet, and then deconstruct it. It might be a double process, but I almost always build shape wet and then collapse them dry. That gives me that really nice strong shape to the style, then I texturize it but the shape is still there.” – Oscar Bond Go-To Tool: Hattori Hanzo HH6 The Kime “It’s a high-carbon shear. I do everything with it; wet hair, dry hair. It’s common to have a shear that does both.”

PRO TIP SINCE DRY CUTTING IS MORE ABRASIVE TO SHEARS (MEANING IT WILL DULL YOUR SHEARS FASTER THAN WET CUTTING) IT’S IMPORTANT TO INVEST IN HIGH-QUALITY SHEARS MADE OF CARBON OR STEEL. OR, IF YOU’RE DOING A LOT OF DRY CUTTING, INVEST IN A SEPARATE PAIR OF SHEARS THAT’S DESIGNED SPECIFICALLY FOR DRY HAIR.

salonmagazine.ca / October 2019 37

WHAT YOU WON’T LEARN IN BEAUTY SCHOOL From communicating with new clients to staying on budget as you build your business, here are easy ways to keep on learning, no matter where your salon is located.

BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO

38 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

Number Crunching

“Hairstylists don’t have time to read the numbers,” says Crystal Zakaluzny, a Mindbody consultant in Moosejaw, Sask. “Still, they need to rely on dashboards to see the appointments, keep track of revenue and you can have an idea of the types of appointments booked,” she says. “No matter what system you’re using in your salon, using weekly and monthly statistics is a learning opportunity for everyone on your team.”

As a business owner, you need to know more about your team’s performance and identify where they may need to focus their education. For example, if some hairstylists are having difficulty reaching retail targets it may be time to offer your team training in areas of sales, or customer service. Zakaluzny suggests dedicating an hour or two each week to learning more about retail and service statistics as a way to enhance the planning needs of your team’s education and training.

PHOTOS: GETTYIMAGES

Developing a clear vision for education in your salon is a key component to keeping your team creatively engaged.

“You have to share all the details of what you’re doing as you work on your client’s hair,” says James Abu-Ulba, owner of Spa Utopia & Salon in Surrey, B.C. “They will come back the next time because you shared everything, and it pushes us as professionals to keep experimenting and discovering new things we can share with them. This way, everyone is moving forward.”

Along with technical training, there are so many ways to elevate the skills you and your team need at every career stage. We connected with salon training professionals and asked for their best advice on how to stay ahead of the curve.

Build Your Network Education doesn’t always happen in a formal setting. Here are some tips for developing your skills in real life and beyond.

Money Matters

Regardless of whether you’re a new or would-be salon owner, you need to be up to speed on business finances, hiring staff and how to deal with payroll regulations. Government programs such as Community Futures are complimentary and offer education and training to small business owners on everything from loan application to dealing with staffing issues. In addition, some national banks offer online training resources to assist business owners by highlighting the best ways to manage your finances, allowing you to successfully navigate your business growth.

Learn to Listen

According to Robert Cromeans, global artistic director and education expert with John Paul Mitchell Systems, hairstylists could do well to boost their communication skills.

“Communication is so key, yet 85 per cent of salon guests will say that they don’t feel listened to by their stylist,” he says.

How to improve? Cromeans suggests hairstylists practice with one another, in order to develop a better understanding of what different people may be saying. In addition, he challenges hairstylists to create a list of questions that get their clients talking right from the consultation.

Tech It Out

As a business consultant, Zakaluzny can see firsthand the benefit of having at least one or two hairstylists on your team with a strong understanding of technology. From running email campaigns to using a booking program to send reminders to clients, having a designated team member with an indepth understanding of your salon’s software platforms will help ensure you’re making the most of everyone’s time.

BE INTERACTIVE Use digital apps that offer a community space where you can ask questions and contribute to the discussion. For example, Mindbody offers an app that allows hairstylists to learn about a bevvy of topics, including advertising for new stylists, and ways to market to your clients. “This kind of networking allows you to find creative solutions you might not think of on your own,” says Zakaluzny.

GO GLOBAL While your client base is on a local level, finding new and innovative ways to create a standout client experience can require looking beyond the boundaries of your neighbourhood. Zakaluzny says that by interacting with hairstylists on a global level, you’re avoiding feeling as though you’re competing, but rather working together to find create solutions that work in both areas of your business.

PERSONAL CONNECTION If you aren’t already, start attending conferences where you’ll be connected with like-minded individuals with similar business struggles. For salon owners, taking the time for education can be challenging, but making the most of the training and seminars offered at conferences is a great learning opportunity, and a wonderful way to get to know others in similar roles. It’s also an opportunity to ask tough questions about topics from finances to handling human resources issues.

salonmagazine.ca / October 2019 39

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Also, find a comprehensive list of Canadian manufacturers and distributors.

CO LLE CTIO NS

October

An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level. salonmagazine.ca / July/August 2018 41

Collections — DREAM TEAM

Muted pastels are brought to life in this stunning collection mentored by the award-winning Robert Eaton.

42 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

HAIR The Fellowship for British Hairdressing Colour Project 2019, led by Paul Dennison, U.K. MAKEUP Lucy Flower STYLING Stacey Jane Shaw PHOTOS Richard Miles salonmagazine.ca / October 2019 43

Collections — MIMIC

Colour placement is everything in this bold and mysterious Australian collection.

44 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

HAIR Rachel Vitullo, Joey Scandizzo Salon, Australia MAKEUP Bec Shannon STYLING Elaine Marshall PHOTOS Andrew O’Toole

salonmagazine.ca / October 2019 45

Collections — PRETTY COLOURFUL

Shorter cuts are transformed with soft, feminine hues in this Australian collection.

HAIR & COLOUR Sabrina Fetterkind, Biba, Australia MAKEUP Bernice Mansfield STYLING Vy PHOTOS Karla Majnaric

46 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

salonmagazine.ca / October 2019 47

Collections — MODUS OPERANDI

Colour melting is key in this Canadian collection showcasing high levels of technique and style.

HAIR Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. MAKEUP Heidi Fleming STYLING Melissa Duguay PHOTOS Denis Duquette

48 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

salonmagazine.ca / October 2019 49

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Contessa CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Nadia Abouwaked, Effusion, Montreal Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Vincent Diplacido, LoKal C. Coiffure, Laval, Que. Donna Dolphy, Donna Dolphy Hair, Toronto Marie-Josée Dupuis, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Janet Jackson, JouJou Hair Studio, Toronto Tracy Newton, Aveda Institute Toronto, Toronto Michelle Pargee, Freelance, Sechelt, B.C. Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer, Ont. Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton, Alta.

Mandy Rogers, Hunt & Gather Hair Company, Victoria, B.C. Morgan Roy, Aveda Academy Salon, Toronto Derrick Rutherford, Valentini Hair Design, Guelph, Ont. Karine Savard, Salon RDV par Patrick G. Nadeau, Outremont, Que. Maggie Semaan, Haus of Rtists by Maggie Semaan, Laval, Que. Kathy Simon, Mekka, Montreal Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. CANADIAN SALON TEAM Atelier Mega Coiffure, Québec, Que. Blyss Salon, Toronto Bob + Paige Salon, Toronto Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Deeva Hair, Kitchener, Ont. Harmony Hair Care, Peterborough, Ont. Industry Hair and Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont. Kroma Salon, King City, Ont. M Coiffure, Montreal Marc Bernier Coiffure, Ste-Julie, Que. Monokrome Salon, Montreal Opus Salon and Spa, St. Thomas, Ont. Salon Espace K, Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu, Que. Suki’s, Vancouver Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C. Taz Hair Co., Toronto The Seahorse Salon, St. John’s, Nfld.

Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby, Ont. Valvano Salon, St. Catharines, Ont. Vanity House, London, Ont.

52 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Martin Hillier, The Lounge Hair Studio, Vancouver Kelly Hunter, Salon Venator, Winnipeg Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Patrick G. Nadeau, RDV par Patrick G. Nadeau, Montreal Michelle Pargee, Freelance, Sechelt, B.C. Chloe Ste-Marie, Oblic Villeray, Montreal Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa MASTER COLOURIST Jenny Bell, Headlines Salon, Stouffville, Ont. Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Michelle Finlayson, Freelance, Edmonton, Alta.

Krysten-Ashley Garrod, Studio Fontana, Toronto Heidi Kenney, Heidi Kenney Hair Studio, Yarmouth, N.S. Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C. Joan Novak, JoNo Hair, Whistler, B.C. Audrey Adrine Petrosyan, Toni&Guy, Toronto Michael Shire, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Jennifer Vermeer, Fascinature the Salon, Hamilton, Ont. SESSION HAIRSTYLIST Aprille Bouchard, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Samuel Chabot, Coiffure Le Saint, Québec, Que. Stéphane Scotto Di Cesare, Freelance, Montreal Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Duyen Huynh, DH Studio, Scarborough, Ont. Anica Iordache, Modmop Hairdressing, Ottawa Kirsten McIntosh, Freelance, Oakville, Ont. Lauren Oxford, Mousy Browns, Edmonton, Alta.

Melissa Purcell, Tomax Hairworks, Georgetown, Ont. Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa INTERNATIONAL HAIRSTYLIST Tracey Devine-Smith, Glamour UAE, London, U.K. Dallan Flint, Haus of Flint, Draper, UT Mark Leeson, Mark Leeson, Mansfield, U.K. Candice Mckay, Wyatt Hairdressing and Barbering, Johannesburg, South Africa Uros Mikic, Kinky Curly Straight, Stepney, South Australia Nikki Porter, Rubi Hair Malvern, Malvern, Australia Rick Roberts, Rick Roberts Salon, East Yorkshire, U.K. Sally Rogerson, SR Education, Scottsdale, AZ Cristina Tatasciore, Flipped Hair, Melbourne, Australia Anne Veck, Anne Veck Salons, Oxford, U.K.

CANADIAN COLOURIST Robin Bacon, Giovanni and Perri, Barrie, Ont. Armineh Damanpak, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Danielle Degraaf, Creative Images Hair Studio, Woodstock, Ont. Ann-Marie Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer, Ont. Julio Rodriguez, Valentini Hair Design, Guelph, Ont. Maggie Semaan, Haus of Rtists by Maggie Semaan, Laval, Que. Mirella Sementilli Rota, Freelance, Woodbridge, Ont. Kathy Simon, Mekka, Montreal ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST Danielle Barbey, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Jenna Bosch, Plush Salon & Spa, Medicine Hat Darcie Chapman, The Black Swan Hair Co., Spruce Grove Jason Fournier, J.Fournier Hair Design, Calgary Hana Gohill, Social Cut & Shave, Calgary Shayne Harrison, SK Infinite Hair Design, Calgary Chelsea Mann, Chelsea Mann Hair Company, St. Albert Simone Pettigrew, Salon Social, Edmonton Zunny Suderman, Zunny Hair, Calgary Alannah Zilkowsky, Rock Paper Hair Designs, Sherwood Park ATLANTIC HAIRSTYLIST Alma Head, Alma’s Family Hair Salon, Sydney, N.S. Sharon Keller, Bounce! Hair Studio, Long Creek, P.E.I. Heidi Kenney, Heidi Kenney Hair Studio, Yarmouth, N.S. Ali Pike, The Seahorse Salon, St. John’s, Nfld.

Tara Tobin, The Hair Studio & Spa, St. John’s, Nfld.

BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST Armineh Damanpak, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Deva Funk, Zazou Salon and Academy, North Vancouver Ken Hung, Salon Era, Richmond Soyeon Jin, Pomp and Proper Salon, Vancouver Vu Nguyen, Lure Salon, Vancouver Michelle Pargee, Freelance, Sechelt Kerstin Pirzek, JP Mode Salon, Surrey Freddy Sim, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Stef Toews, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver ONTARIO HAIRSTYLIST Robin Bacon, Giovanni and Perri, Barrie Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Danielle Degraaf, Creative Images Hair Studio, Woodstock Donna Dolphy, Donna Dolphy Hair, Toronto Shareen Doucette, Deeva Hair, Kitchener Lauren Green, LgHairstyles, Aylmer Anica Iordache, Modmop Hairdressing, Ottawa Peter Potrus, Donato Salon + Spa, Mississauga Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London Isabel Wilson, Opus Salon and Spa, St. Thomas

2020 Semi-Finalists!

QUEBEC HAIRSTYLIST Karina Brasseur, Coupe Sculpture, Repentigny Jean-Sébastien Chalut, O Salon, Montreal Etienne Cloutier, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec Mathieu Daigle, Atelier Méga Coiffure, Québec Sonia Dallaire, Salon Espace C, Brossard Fanny Pilon, Lov Coiffure Beauté Mirabel, Mirabel Roxanne Pitre, Salon No:1 Coiffure, Québec Amelie Rainville, Les Muses Maitres Coiffeurs, Beloeil Sophie Tessier, Salon Larousse, Montreal Jason Williams, Salon Espace K, Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu SASKATCHEWAN/MANITOBA HAIRSTYLIST Jamie Dorge, Élan Hair Studio, Winnipeg Baillie Fyfe, Evoluir Hair Salon, Winnipeg Kelly Hunter, Salon Venator, Winnipeg Kelsie Kitzul, Chel SalonSpa, Saskatoon Jason Lachance, Urban Crush Salon, Winnipeg Colleen Lamirande, Verde Salon, Winnipeg Jaclynn Lewis, Salon Haze, Regina Ashley Ruecker, Salon Haze, Regina Lisa Schoor, Cutting Loose Hair Design, Winnipeg AVANT GARDE HAIRSTYLIST Stéphane Scotto Di Cesare, Freelance, Montreal Kim Garneau, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Yves Houde, Atelier Méga Coiffure, Québec, Que. Jae Jeong, Avant Garde Hair Salon, Vancouver Ludovic Leroy-Vigier, Rayko Coiffure, Lasalle, Que. Julio Rodriguez, Valentini Hair Design, Guelph, Ont. Lisa Schoor, Cutting Loose Hair Design, Winnipeg Ashley Sparkes, Salon H, Winnipeg James Valiant, Suki’s South Granville, Vancouver Norm Wright, Taz Hair Co., Toronto CANADIAN NAIL ARTIST Jessica Benner, InStyle Salon and Spa, Aylmer, Ont. Olga Khazova, European Standard by Olga Khazova, Medicine Hat, Alta.

Anick Pouliot, Pose d’ongles Anick Pouliot, Levis, Que. MAKEUP ARTIST Marika D’Auteuil, MD Makeup, Montreal Breanne Gershon, Glam Breanne, Medicine Hat, Alta.

Heidi Fleming, Beauty by Heidi Amelia, Morden, N.S. Véronique Girard, Véronique Girard – Artiste Maquilleur, Jonquière, Que. Abie Hagerty, Facesbyabie, Fingal, Ont. Yuri Ishii, Avant Garde Hair Studio, Vancouver Alexandre Lajoie, Miuz, Trois-Rivières, Que. Elle Munster, Elle Munster Makeup Artistry, Halifax, N.S. Sophie St-Laurent, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Katie Sullivan, KQS Studio, St. John’s, Nfld.

MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST Ben Barkworth, JustB Salon, Toronto Aran Beattie, Vanity House, London, Ont. Eric Charpentier, Apart Studio, Montreal Michael Dubuc, Salon Style M, Drummondville, Que. Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Thad Jayaseelan, Thaddeus, Mississauga, Ont. Jason Massa, Lexa Coiffure, Brossard, Que. Jamie Potts, Hair by David & Co., Toronto Freddy Sim, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Marilyn Vendittelli, Industry Hair and Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont. MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST Eva Abraha, Zinc Hair, Vancouver Jean-Sébastien Chalut, O Salon, Montreal Rachel Fortino, Salon Alessandro, St. Catharines, Ont. Hana Gohill, Social Cut & Shave, Calgary Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Jae Jeong, Avant Garde Hair Salon, Vancouver Soyeon Jin, Pomp and Proper Salon, Vancouver Freddy Sim, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Lauren Steele, Salon Haze, Regina, Sask.

Norm Wright, Taz Hair Co., Toronto NEW HAIRSTYLIST Brittney Clarke, Giovanni and Perri, Barrie, Ont. Angela Debono, Taz Hair Co., Etobicoke, Ont. Robynn Graham, Hair by Robynn, Innisfil, Ont. Hannah Hewitt, Axis Hair Salons, Vancouver Adèle Lavoie, Morini Coiffure Inc., Québec, Que. Frederick Levesque, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Laura Metansinine, Richardson Hair Design, Kemptville, Ont. Michelle Nahmad, Blushes, Ottawa Aislin O’Brien, The Hair Company, Newmarket, Ont. Melek Shefket, Donato Salon + Spa, Mississauga, Ont. STUDENT-APPRENTICE HAIRSTYLIST Meaghan Boswell, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. Alicia Cooper, Scissors Hair Studio - Byward Market, Ottawa Rachelle Dixon, Roots to Ends Hair Studios and Tranquility Day Spa, Ingersoll, Ont. Chelsea Dogan, Salon Cyan, London, Ont. Cherish Eaton, The Cutting Room, Edmonton, Alta.

Carlie Parkin, RedBloom Salon East Village, Calgary Tasha Pinheiro, Deeva Hair, Kitchener, Ont.

SALON INTERIOR DESIGN Butter Beauty Parlour, Calgary Carisme Coiffure Brossard, Brossard, Que. Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Hedkandi Salon, Calgary Mavn Hair, Edmonton, Alta.

Menz Den Barber Shop, Waterford, Ont. Pro Hair Group, Toronto Salon Scavo, Toronto The Manor Salon, Toronto JOHN STEINBERG AWARD FOR COMMUNITY SERVICE ÇaVaBien Hair Studio & Day Spa Ltd., Calgary Connect Hair Studio, Barrie, Ont. Hedkandi Salon, Calgary Jonni’s Styling Studio, Kamloops, B.C. Luc Mon Coiffeur, Montreal Tangles Hair Salon & Spa, Holland Landing, Ont. The Green Hair Spa, Stratford, Ont. The Manor Salon, Toronto

Finalists listed online mid-October and in our November/December issue.

Can’t wait? Subscribe to our newsletter for early access at SalonMagazine.ca!

TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST Eva Abraha, Zinc Hair, Vancouver Robin Bacon, Giovanni and Perri, Barrie, Ont. Aprille Bouchard, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Danielle Degraaf, Creative Images Hair Studio, Woodstock, Ont. Marie-Josée Dupuis, Coiffure CUT IN, Québec, Que. Dee Fortier, Deeva Hair, Kitchener, Ont. Lauren Green, LgHairstyles, Alymer, Ont. Sandro Macri, Salon Collage, Toronto Josee Renaud, Josee Renaud Coiffure, Québec, Que. Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont.

salonmagazine.ca / October 2019 53

James Abu-Ulba Being a hairdresser for more than 20 years, James Abu-Ulba is always looking forward, and drawing inspiration from everything, including hair shows and magazines.

“When I was younger hairstylist, I would wonder, ‘How do I take something I see in Salon magazine that’s inspirational and put it on somebody in my chair?,’” he says. “What I began to notice is that there was a hole in education.”

This thought led to the creation of Abu-Ulba’s education company, Method Education, which focuses on elevating the art of hairdressing— teaching editorial hair techniques and skills that can be applied behind the chair.

Bringing Art to Life For his 2019 Elite Master Hairstylist collection, in which he was a finalist, Abu-Ulba decided to push his own creative boundaries and created wigs for the first time. “This collection was called Ideja and it basically just means idea. I’ve never made a wig or had training to make a wig, but I just wanted to go at it,” he recalls. “Sometimes when you get trained to make something, mistakes are taught to you. Sometimes mistakes are good; I think that’s where the learning happens.”

Abu-Ulba used a range of hair clippings, braids and even carpet fibres to assemble the wigs, which took an average of eight to 10 hours each to complete. “I never want someone to look at my

54 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

work and say, ‘Oh, that’s James’,” he says. “I always want them to wonder whose it is, because that means I’m continuing to do different things.”

“If you look at [a photo or collection] and can name whose it is, they’ve been doing it for too long and they’re not experimenting as they should,” he adds.

“If we continue to do what we’ve always been doing, we’re going to continue creating the same thing.”

Lessons Learned When shooting collections, Abu-Ulba says his secret is to not rush the process. “I never shoot it all in one day. I’ll do that because I can see what I like and don’t like and make adjustments to it.” He also adds that not all models make the final cut.

As a member of the Davines Artistic Team, Abu-Ulba credits Angelo Seminara (the brand’s former artistic director) as one of his creative mentors. “He taught me to look at hair differently and to look for inspiration everywhere.”

For new hairstylists, Abu-Ulba says apprenticeships are the key to learning. “Hairstylists need to map out the first five years of their careers.

The first decisions they make once they get out of hair school and where they work typically dictates their entire lifespan in the industry. You really have to think beyond the first year. This is an industry that will give you what you give it.”

INSPIRED BY… Abu-Ulba was inspired by photographer Bjorn Tagemose, who’s famous for his work with musicians and celebrities, including Grace Jones. “In a lot of my collections, there’s a mood to them,” says AbuUlba. “I think if you base a collection off of a feeling, it’s a little easier to make a connection with people.”

PHOTOS: HAIR & WARDROBE STYLING: JAMES ABU-ULBA, MAKEUP: ASHLEY YOUNG, PHOTO: COBY PHOTOGRAPHY; BJORN TAGEMOSE COURTESY OF INSTAGRAM

Contessa Gallery — FINALIST, ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST

“I enter what I’m proud of.

I don’t think about what the judges want to see.”

Business —

Growing With Extensions Boost your business by banking on your extension services.

BY YASMIN GROTHÉ

Hair extensions typically have a high return on investment for any stylist or salon owner since, much like hair colour formulas, the actual cost of the extensions is far less than what you will charge to secure and style the extensions to your clients’ hair.

Bear in mind, though, that creating that flawless, full head of hair is a time-consuming process. While some extensions brands now offer faster application techniques, most versions—especially the tape-in variety—require maintenance and touch-ups in the salon, meaning that every five to eight weeks your client will have to visit to have you remove or reapply their extensions. Much like hair colour, it’s an ideal service in that it leads to continuous and consistent bookings, and is just one of the reasons that hair extensions are such a profitable salon service.

PHOTO: GREAT LENGTHS

Your Ideal Client

When offering a specialized service such as colour or extensions, you want to make sure your client is also playing a role in ensuring her hair is well maintained.

According to Dee Gaultier, master hair extension artist for Great Lengths Canada, an ideal client is one who is willing to comply with care instructions.

“This ensures complete success if the stylist has installed the extensions properly and has fully educated the client on how to care for her hair. If the client does her part in maintenance, including proper brushing, washing, product use, and respecting the amount of time the extensions should be worn, it eliminates the chance of wear, tear, and damage.”

Master hairstylist Nik Morel, an extensions specialist who works at Pure Salon in Montreal and with Hotheads, says the consultation is key

to ensuring your client knows what quality of extension she is getting, and how to maintain these products properly. “The biggest mistake you can make is to cheap out on the extensions, which will not give the best, most beautiful results. I always recommend clients wait until they have more of a budget if they’re looking into getting extensions.”

More Length or Volume?

From a business standpoint, what’s more profitable: lengthening hair for a few clients or adding volume for many clients? “Longer hair is definitely more profitable,” says Gaultier. “When longer hair is requested, more extensions must be applied to appear real, especially if the client’s hair is shorter to begin with.”

However, adding volume to a client’s hair is not to be discounted when it comes time to turn a good profit. “With tape-in extensions like Hotheads, I can give my clients more length and volume in a two-hour appointment. And with a single pack of extensions, I can add a lot of volume for more mature clients. This type of extensions has definitely opened the door to bringing in another type of client.”

You can charge $500 to add more volume, and you know that person is bound to come back and seek your services to either remove the extensions, or to add more hair once it starts thinning out— typically after six to eight weeks. “Extensions sales have allowed me to buy a cottage, so I guess that says a lot about the type of profit you’re potentially looking at with this type of service,” says Morel. salonmagazine.ca / October 2019 55

Profile­ —WENDY BÉLANGER

Never Not Learning Whether she’s teaching in a classroom or styling celebrities for red carpet events, Wendy Bélanger is always learning.

BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO

With more than 25 years of hairstyling experience, Wendy Bélanger has been teaching for two decades. “I love learning, teaching others and the biggest reward is seeing someone really understand a technique or grasp what you’re teaching.

It’s very moving,” she says.

As an international artist for Redken, the Calgary-based hairstylist has taken on a new role that continues to keep her focused on elevating her craft. “I want hairstylists to see what they do as a real career, with the ability to create a life from it.”

56 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

freedom?” This is what good education helps build; it helps show them that they need to be firing on all cylinders to be successful. We also have a lot of conversations about who they are as a person.

What does education mean to you? Is there a type that is more important?

Education isn’t only about learning a balayage technique. When I teach in salons I take a team through the experience of having a guest in their salon. We talk about the obstacles within that salon and then I walk a client through the experience from the greeting to the shampoo to a full consultation, and then I give them a haircut. Through this, the hairstylists

see exactly what a proper conversation looks like. They also learn a specific cutting technique based on a look that clients want, and the team can use it in the salon.

Is there something specific that hairstylists need additional or ongoing education in?

Overall, it’s the service experience that is missing. If you don’t how to present the cut and your client doesn’t understand how to maintain it when she’s home, your work in the salon doesn’t matter. When people leave the salon, they want to feel sexy and beautiful, which is why my younger staff need to practice their finishing techniques. If a woman isn’t set up for

PHOTO: DAVID DEAN

Why are you so passionate about education?

My whole salon is based on [this passion]. I have a staff of 12 and the idea is to train them to work in our salon after they complete their education.

I feel very lucky to get paid to make women feel beautiful, and we are teaching our clients how to do and be anything they want in their lives through the vehicle of doing hair.

Every month when I do professional development meetings with my team, I ask, “What’s your freedom? Are you working because you want to buy a house, for your family or because you want to travel?” Each meeting I ask, “How much closer are you to your

success when she leaves, she is not coming back. Hairstylists need to give them that help. You need to be able to make a woman feel amazing and then give her what she needs to be able to do that when she goes home. That’s my only agenda.

What do you think is a hairstylist’s biggest stumbling block?

People have a hard time admitting they aren’t good at something. Many times hairstylists will say they don’t like something but really it’s because they are bad at it. When you look at athletes, they always look at what they aren’t good at and that’s what they need to work on. That’s where we need change.

PHOTOS: WENDY BÉLANGER

Where are the learning opportunities at this stage in your career?

I was at an event with a young barber because I wanted to work on my fades, which I didn’t learn in hair school. The barber told me he was shaking because I was standing next to him, but I said, that’s what I was there to learn. The funny thing was, when he got to the top, he said he couldn’t cut it very well so I took the shears and showed him. We had this really cool exchange. Helping each other is what we should be doing!

Why do you think live education is so important?

The one thing with digital and video is you don’t get the “why” behind what the educator is doing. My assistant is excellent and she had watched a video I had done, but when I saw her cutting, I asked her to tell me why she was doing it that way. When she told me it was because I did it and that she liked the haircut, I thought, but you don’t know why you’re doing it, which makes the difference between a good and a great haircut. I walked her through what I was doing, explaining why at each step.

You don’t have the opportunity to ask questions with digital, and younger hairstylists don’t realize this is dangerous.

As a salon owner, I have an obligation to them and my company to set them up for success. I’ll tell them to watch the video, but we do education every other week so they can ask questions. salonmagazine.ca / October 2019 57

Interiors — BONE & CO

Calm and Cozy From its minimalist white walls and hints of greenery, to its signature spiral staircase, this Toronto-based salon provides a welcoming feel to anyone who enters it.

BY LUCY MAZZUCCO

Home Is Where the Heart Is When launching his business, Bone wanted to ensure that this salon would be a reflection of himself, give clients an overall feeling of peacefulness and relaxation, and combine it all with a dose of small town vibes.

Aiming for a contemporary design, Bone opted for a white and light grey colour scheme, and placed a focus on textures as opposed to colour, to keep things simple and clutter-free. “You want to imagine what it’s going to look like when there’s no one there, but the hardest part is to make it look good when everyone’s there,” he says.

58 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

Keeping Things Simple “I tried to keep it super simplistic, with details in the porcelain French-inspired floors and a focus on monochromatic colours and textures.”

From the wooden, textured shelves to the gold, black and emerald green accent colours, Bone says he also wanted to keep it very gender-neutral.

He also enforces an all-black dress code for his staff. “I know it’s cliché but it showcases the client and creates a difference between the client and employee,” he explains.

The Grass Is Always Greener “I placed great importance on greenery in the salon as it is a space with natural light to give it more life. This ties in with nature, yoga and the general feeling of being a breath of fresh air and ‘going back to your roots’,” he says.

“We also have a fig tree that’s still alive after months of being in the salon.”

The Main Attraction The statement spiral staircase, although not initially loved by Bone, grew to be a favourite after he realized the tie-in it had with his homey vibe.

“As the construction progressed, I fell more in love with it and found a way to work around it by repainting it and recovering the stairs. It truly makes it feel like a home because stairs are associated with homes and houses— spiral or not.”

PHOTOS: SIMKOVA STUDIOS

“My goal for this space was to make it feel peaceful and homey for both myself and my clients,” says Bone & Co. owner, Ryan Bone.

“I wanted it to feel really warm and welcoming. I’ve incorporated a lot of inspiration from yoga and other aspects of my life that I love and that help keep me sane.”

DETAILS Opened March 2019 DESIGN Amy Poole – Randolph the Third SPACE 1,100 square feet TEAM Work/Technical Stations: 7 Stylists, Business and Marketing Manager, Social Media and Marketing Consultant: 3

BRANDS L’Oréal Professionnel WEBSITE/ INSTAGRAM www.boneandco.ca @bone.and.co

salonmagazine.ca / October 2019 59

For many women, hair loss is one of the most devastating parts of a cancer diagnosis.

Help a woman with cancer by referring her to Look Good Feel BetterÂŽ. The two-hour workshop provides expert support and practical tools on managing the effects of cancer treatment including loss of brows and lashes, dry and sensitive skin, as well as sun care and make-up hygiene tips. It also icludes a demonstration on hair alternatives such as wigs and scarves, all in a safe and welcoming environment alongside other women facing many of the same challenges.

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Events —

Pumping Up the Volume with the Pulp Riot Squad!

Pulp Riot’s top artists and squad members gathered at the L’Oréal academy in Toronto for the launch of the brand’s latest styling line. The highenergy night was filled with music, graffiti art, and featured Canadian artists Michael Levine and Kelly O’Leary, along with Pulp Riot’s brand director, Angele Charette.

PHOTOS: PULP RIOT

When and where: August 12, Toronto

salonmagazine.ca / October 2019 61

Events —

Colour and Creativity Reimagined at the 2019 Beauty Envision Awards For the first time ever, Coty brought together its professional beauty brands—Wella Professionals, Sebastian Professional, Nioxin, Kadus Professional, ghd and OPI—for an actionpacked live competition and awards ceremony.

When and where: July 21 in Los Angeles

| The event also marked the debut of Coty Professional Beauty’s new senior VP, Sennen Pamich. Also among the attendees were the company’s Canadian team, including country manager, Marianne Medeiros.

62 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

Award-winning British hairdresser and Wella global artist, Darren Ambrose, showcased a range of street-style cuts and editorial styles in a graffiti, vintage and rock ‘n’ roll-inspired presentation.

PHOTOS: ADAM ADOLPHUS, SALON STAFF

—

| —

Canada took home three awards!

Editorial Hair winner Carly Purdy of Valvano Salon in St. Catharines, Ont., and Nail Art winner Amy Hwang of Kumi Nail Beauty Bar in Edmonton, Alta.

The Canadian Color Artist of the Year was awarded to Elena Bogdanets of Figaro Salon in Toronto, who will be advancing to the Wella Global Creative Retreat in Seville, Spain in 2020.

SLAVIC HAIR SINGLE DONOR CUTICLE DIRECTION CORRECT ETHICALLY SOURCED SILICONE FREE

HAND TIED • MACHINE WEFTS • TAPE-IN • CLIP-IN www.philocalyhair.com • @philocalyhair Sign up for a Stylist Account today at: hello@philocalyhair.com Education Available • Canadian owned and operated salonmagazine.ca / October 2019 63

A spectacular red carpet with a live model greeted guests in the historic building for the big unveiling of Calura Gloss.

Events —

—

The Canadian company was on fire with its latest launch: Calura Gloss! The two-day event drew hairstylists from across North America, and focused on showcasing the infinite possibilities of this new demi-permanent line. Plus, having lots of fun in and around the Montreal area!

When and where: August 11-13, Montreal

64 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

—

Big influencers from across North America flew to Montreal for three days of fun. And the Oligo Professionnel education team was ready to party after full days of training.

PHOTOS: SALON STAFF

Oligo Professionnel Launches Calura Gloss

Events —

Colour ambassador Crystal Brown explaining all the colour possibilities of the new Majirel GLOW line from L’Oréal Professionnel. |

L’Oréal Professionnel National Training

| Yasmin Grothé, our French Editor-in-Chief, with Édouard Martin and Lorenzo Hechter, the new generation of L’Oréal Professionnel ambassadors.

Twice a year, L’Oréal Professionnel’s Canadian artists come together to showcase their latest hairstyling and colour talents, and share them with the L’Oréal squad. The latest training focused on the launch of the new Majirel GLOW colour line, and up-and-coming trends inspired by the ’90s.

When and where: August 18-19, Montreal

LUMINATI BRINGS A CULTURE CREATED BY YOU!

BE A PART OF THE

AS A COMPANY WE DON’T JUST FOLLOW TRENDS, WE PUSH THE LIMITS OF COLOR PERFORMANCE AND ALWAYS CONSIDER BOTH SIDES OF THE CHAIR FROM THE ARTIST TO THE CLIENT.

WHERE COLOR MASTERS PLAY

T H E F I RST C L E A R T HE R M A L F IL M FO R HIG H L IF T AN D CO LO RIN G - P OW ER ED BY KW I CKWAY

EX C L U S IVE C A NA DIA N DIS TR IB U TO R

CONTESSA MASTER COLOURIST OF THE YEAR 2019 “GUCCI NANNA” Colour & Art Director - Joan Novak

Hairstylist - Renee Africa

KW_Luminati_HALF_2019.indd 1

/

Makeup - Melissa Jones

/

Photo - Kale Friesen

GO GREEN! REUSABLE UP TO 3 TIMES AND RECYCLABLE.

salonmagazine.ca / October 2019 65

2019-08-29 2:00 PM

From on-stage work to digital education, Electric London’s Mark Woolley and Joan Novak share their experience in education from different sides of the globe. Plus, what they admire most about working with one another, and why live education is still so important in today’s digital world.

How important is working with a global education team as you both do?

MARK WOOLLEY Firstly, it was a pleasure to have Joan come to England where we had a week to hang out together. Secondly, education should be shared so that people learn and get better. It’s an important thing that it’s shared, for the educator and those who are learning.

JOAN NOVAK When you’re teaching, you have an “aha” moment. When you are expressing it to people in a room, you have to think about what you’re teaching on a different level. And sometimes when you are expressing it to a room of people, you have someone in the room making a comment and you learn from that as well. I learn so much from teaching people; I get back as much as I give.

What has been the biggest lesson from students?

MW For me, it’s about sharing. Any creative is about developing ideas all the time. Today, it’s about sharing and if you can do that, it makes you better in the process. The biggest thing is sharing the ideas; as soon as you have an audience that understands them, they go away learning and you’ve improved yourself.

JN I agree. Everyone has a different way of approaching things, and sometimes if you have a group, you might get

66 salonmagazine.ca / October 2019

learn best when I’m standing beside someone doing it. A lot of us are visual learners, and having that hands-on experience helps.

someone who provides a point of view that you learn from, too. I’m 100 per cent on board with passing down the information we have learned on our journey. It’s so important.

What is the benefit to marrying digital with live education, and can you?

MW Digital education has its place.

You can watch a music video, but there is something about seeing music live.

And similarly, the great thing about live education is you can ask questions and get up-close and really see things.

JN For people who live in more remote areas, YouTube videos and Instagram can be a bit more useful. Speaking even on my own behalf, digital can be quite useful to me in keeping my finger on the pulse because I am in a bit of a remote area. But when it comes to learning, I

What does it take to be a good educator?

JN A good, easy-to-understand way of explaining things and being able to break it down. For me, it was just practice, over all the years. You learn what resonates with people and find out how to explain it in a different way. Sometimes you can tell [what’s not working] and you adjust.

MW You have to show you’re passionate about it. For some it means opening your own salons or being a session hairdresser. You want someone who has maybe won some awards, has some credentials, and [be able to trust that] there is quality in what they are teaching.

What keeps you motivated to teach?

MW For me, it is about building a community of hairdressers and making sure I’m improving all the time.

JN It’s constantly trying to move forward and be better. I look forward to new opportunities that are presented to me as I grow.

TEXT: ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO; PHOTOS: JOAN NOVAK

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