Salon Magazine, September 2007

Page 1

l salon MAGAZINE

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 365 Bloor St. E., Ste. 1902 Toronto, Ont., Canada M4W 3L4

THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY AND STYLE

Fall 2007 Trends

gender bender • vintage glam • less is more • tough luxe

plus the pros and cons of the chain game

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l salon MAGAZINE

Contents SEPTEMBER 07 W W W. S ALON 5 2 . CA

ON THE COVER Hair: Phil Smith Celestial City Collection Makeup: Karen Lockyer Wardrobe: Roberta Resta

ON THE COVER 41

FALL 2007 TREND REPORT

56

THE CHAIN GAME

Photography: Malcolm Willison Technique: “Adaptable and easy to wear, this delicate advancement of the popular bob will be the next big thing with clients and celebrities. This style is a very textured and choppy cut than previous bobs that have been big trends.” —Phil Smith

FEATURE Gender Bender, Vintage Glam, Less Is More and Tough Luxe

FEATURE Cutting through the salon chain stereotype

FEATURES 50

BOOMER COLOUR

58

A CUT ABOVE

60

UNDER THE BOARDWALK

64

ART MOVEMENT

L Oréal Professionnel introduces Color Suprême, the first anti-aging L’ hair colour

Canadian salons unite to fight youth poverty during Redken's first national cut-athon to benefit the One X One foundation

Jason Kearns reinvents the bun in a sultry vintage-inspired collection

Joico’s international artistic director, Damien Carney, creates sharp and versatile cuts for the fall 2007 HI:DEF collection

> CONTENTS CONTINUE ON PAGE 10

41

FALL 2007 TREND REPORT

8

salon > september 07

64

ART MOVEMENT Joico presents HI:DEF for fall 2007

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Perfection. Simply smooth style. Simply beautiful. Straighten or curl hair without worry. Protect hair from heat styling damage and colour fadeage.

Introducing SuperSmooth™

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Hot Iron Protection

Longer Lasting Hair Colour GUARANTEED!®


l salon MAGAZINE

REGULARS 14

EDITOR’S LETTER

16

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

18

HAIRLINES Planning for retirement p.18; Redken relaunches All Soft p.20; Tools of the month p.20; Lakmé releases the therapeutic power of k.therapy p.22; The Mane Event revamps its strategy for its 10th anniversary p.24; Schwarzkopf releases BC Time Restore p.24; The Terry Fox Foundation launches the Great Canadian Head Shave p.24; Solutions for foot woes from standing all day at work p.26; Salon International in London p.27; The beauties of the Cannes Film Festival p.28

30

MEN TTwo new men’s lines launched; Hair tattooing grows in popularity

34

SCENE The TIGI international creative team hits Toronto

36

CONTESSA GALLERY Suzanne Martin’s Contessa 18 collection

68

TANNING Encouraging clients to use professional lotions

72

ESTHETICS Sharon Sharpe-Titus launches SST Signature Series;

76

NAILS The latest nail files; The natural nail trend;; Competition tips

78

SALON52 - September line-up

79

PROFILE Andrea Claire Walmsley

83

INTERIORS Winnipeg’s ipeg’s City Looks Salon and Spa

86

HOT PRODUCTS

88

EVENTS

90

SCOOP

93

PRESS PASS

106

Makeup artist Cheryl Gushue at L’Oréal Fashion Week

LAST WORD by John Steinberg

34 SCENE

83 INTERIORS

86

HOT PRODUCTS

79 PROFILE

10

salon > september 07

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Make Damaged Ends Meet Now a trim isn’t the only solution stylists can offer clients with split ends. Introducing K-PAK Split End Mender.

“Split End Mender is a major advancement in hair repair,” says Anthony Morrison, winner of BRAVO’s Shear Genius, and Joico Artistic Team member. “It fuses split ends together with a strong bond that really lasts, and it also prevents new split ends from forming by strengthening and protecting delicate ends like only K-PAK technology can.”

K-PAK Split End Mender features: • An exclusive dual-polymer technology that deeply penetrates porous hair ends to create an ultra durable bond • A combination of K-PAK technologies—Quadramine Complex®, Keratin Silicone Complex and Hair Protection System— ensures maximum protection and reconstruction from the cuticle to the cortex, locks in moisture, seals the cuticle, and delivers smoothness to the hair

© 2007 Piidea Canada Ltd., Pointe Claire, QC JOICO.COM

HAIR Damien Carney COLOR Sue Pemberton PHOTO Hama Sanders

New!

JOICO.COM


10241 SM DPS_Summit_EN.qxd:Layout 1

7/26/07

1:27 PM

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THE REDKEN 5TH AV A EN REDKEN CANADA INTRODUCES

It’s not just A system... it’s THE system! Come see for yourself what over a thousand salon professionals have already discovered! The Summit brings the world of salon finance, salon culture and personal growth together like no other. From backroom politics to complex money issues, the Summit staff’s years of experience in the industry will help light the way toward renewed hope and prosperity. At the Redken Summit Salon Business College every thought we think, action we take, and word we speak, is made with only one intention in mind: To T serve the highest and greatest good in everyone we lead. We are so confident in our program that we offer you a money-back guarantee. If at the end of a program you are not 100% satisfied, see us and we promise to refund the difference personally. www.summitsalon.com

THE SUMMIT JOURNEY Y ur 5-day Summit journey is designed Yo to help you develop the skills to: Bring first and second year employees to a level of performance that greatly exceeds that of the average 5-10 year employee.

Drastically improve all facets of guest services. Implement a system to “grow your own” new employees and never again be held hostage. Breathe!

Empower your 5-10 year employees to break out of their rut, become high level team players and valuable mentors to your new employees.

CHANGE YOUR SALON, CHANGE YOUR CAREER, CHANGE YOUR LIFE!

Create a growth oriented, team environment where your employees take responsibility for passing THE SUMMIT SYSTEM on to new team members.

In addition, your SUMMIT experience will help you discover the answers to these key questions…

Manage your business with a much higher degree of knowledge and understanding based on “the truth” rather than emotion. Dramatically improve your profit margin. Experience significant increases in staff retention, morale, focus and commitment.

Once you’ve built a profitable company, do you have a plan to ensure that it continues to grow and thrive after you’re gone? Are you growing “buyers” or just more headaches? How do you want to finish your experience in the salon industry?


September 2007

NUE BUSINESS REPORT THE TH HE RE RED EDK DKE KEN EN SUM UMM UM MMI MIT SA S LON O BUS ON USI US SIN INE NES ESS SS COL O LEG OL E E EG

TESTIMONIALS Barb Morin & Jane Mayo, Wish Salon and Day Spa. Dartmouth, NS “As salon own w ers wn r we rs w re r aliz ize iz zed th t at our business s had re ss r ached a pla l te la t au. Alth t oug th ugh ug gh w we we w re r success s fu ss f l, l there r wa re w s a str tro tr rong n desir ire ir re to t move v fo ve f rwa w rd wa r to t gr gro row and impro r ve ro v ours r elve rs v s and our sta ve t ff ta ff. f. Hence, at the sug ugg ug gge gestion of our Redken dis i tr is tri ributo t r, to r we w s ent 5 inte sp t nse life te f chang fe ngi ng ging n da day ays ys at th t e Redk dke dk ken Summit Sa S lo l n Bus u in us i es ess ss Colleg ege eg ge. Since then, we w have v committe ve t d to te t month t ly th l tra tr raining n and have ng v implemente ve t d a gr te gro rowth ori r ente ri t d sy te sys yste t m that has ex exc xcite t d not only te l us ly but our sta t ff ta f as we w ll. So fa f r our gr gro rowth has allowe w d us to we t beg egi eg gin re r nova v tions and we va w have v alre ve r ady re d seen dr dy dra rastic chang nge ng ges in the gro gr rowth of our business s .” ss Robert Barbosa, Salon Escape. T ronto, ON To “Th T anks Th k to ks t Redken, I had the opportunity t ty t dis to i cove is v r the most ess ve s entia ss i l pro ia rog ro ogr gra ram fo f r t da to day ay’s ’ fa f st chang ngi ng ging n salon industr try tr ry: y: the Redken Summit Salon Business s Colleg ss ege eg ge. It w s an incre wa r dible ex re exp xperi r ence, fu ri f ll of gr gre reat info f rm fo r ation and va v luable to t ols l th ls t at all salon own w ers wn r wi rs w ll benefi f t gr fi gre reatly l fr ly fro rom. T ere Th r are re r alwa re way wa ays ys many n diff ny ffe ff fere r nt wa way ays ys to t

deve v lop yo ve y ur salon and make it gr gro row fa f ste t r, te r and this i pro is rog ro ogr gra ram wi w ll help l yo lp y u fi f nd them.” Nina Katehos, The Hair Gallery. Alliston, ON “Th T e Redken Summit Salon Business Th Colleg ege eg ge help l ed us to cre lp r ate more re r tools re l to ls measure r our re re r sults t and perfo ts f rm fo r ance. T anks Th k to this ks i pro is rog ro ogr gra ram, we w manag age ag ged to set go g als l fo ls f r our team and then re r ach t em pro th rop ro operl rly rl ly, y, ste tep te ep by b ste tep te ep. Th T e educational team wa w s fa f ntastic; they e were really ey l ly supportive v and it wa ve w s ve v ry r clear that they e ey w nted us to succeed in impro wa r ving our ro business.” T ny Ambrogio Jr., Hair Fantasy. To London, ON “Th T e Redken Summit Salon Business Th Colleg ege eg ge wa w s a fa f bulous ex exp xperience. I we w nt to other similar pro rog ro ogr gra rams befo f re fo r , but they e ey w re we r ve v ry r incomplete; it is i one thing to hear advi v ce, but it is vi i another thing n entire ng r ly re l to be able to put it into pra r ctice! Th ra T anks k ks t th to t is i pro rog ro ogr gra ram, wi w th t my m te t am, we w manag age ag ged to ge g t more r re re r sults t in 4 months than we ts w had in the pre r vious 5 ye re y ars r , with more rs r re than 20% gr gro rowth.”

Doriane Dalati, Vice-President, General Manager. Redken Canada. “Redk dke dk ken Summit Salon Bus u ines us ess es ss Co C lleg ege eg ge is i T E mos TH o t benefi os f cia fi i l bus ia u ines us ess es ss XX Ray a and ay Salon gr gro rowt wth th op opp pport r unity rt t to ty t hit Ca C nada d . I da have v atte ve t nde te d d numero de r us ro u bus u ines us ess es ss pro rog ro ogr gra rams in my m 15 ye y ars r in th rs t is i indus u tr us try ry and noth t ing th n ng comes e eve es v n clos ve o e to os t th t is i . It is i de des esig ign gned fo f r seri r ous ri u bus us u ines us ess es ss entr tre tr rep epre r neurs r wh rs w o wa w nt seri r ous ri u gr us gro rowt wth th.”

2007 Remaining Sessions Halifax, Nova Scotia October 14-18 (register before September 14th) Investment: $2,500 ($US) Max. attendees: 12 salons (24 people)/program Additional employees: $1,000 extra ($US)

To see if your salon qualifies to attend THE SUMMIT, call 1-800-718-5949 for a pre-enrollment interview.


EDITOR’S LETTER

FOR KIDS, CLIENTS AND YOU!

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salon > september 07

Stephen Puddister Editor-in-Chief

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PHOTO BABAK

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find September is a great time to reflect and be thankful for the frenzy of what was the summer holidays and to start planning what I will do throughout the fall months—my favourite time of the year. I love to make peach salsa and pesto and share it with my friends. It makes me feel good. October 21, 2007, marks the 10th anniversary of the The Mane Event, a cut-athon-style fundraiser founded by Toronto hairstylist Steve Roy. The Mane Event raises much-needed funds for the Teresa Group, a non-profit organization supporting over 670 children in Toronto affected by HIV and AIDS. Why am I talking about this? Hairstylists in the Toronto area can help the Teresa Group raise $30,000 this year for desperately needed programs that ensure children affected by HIV and AIDS receive proper nutrition and the emotional support they deserve. If you are a hairstylist in the GTA, please see the story on page 24 to see how you can help with this very important cause. You don’t even have to be a salon owner to get involved. If everyone donates the cost of just one haircut, you can make one big difference. I encourage you to do it for the kids! I promise it will make you feel good. Also in this issue, Morella Aguirre and Tina Christopoulos bring you our annual fall trend report—for hair, makeup and nails. Be sure to check page 41 for the latest predictions and trends to try on your clients this season. They will love your suggestions. Pam Fulford has done an in-depth probe into the chain salon business and found there are more pros than cons to this beauty business model. You might be surprised to learn that there are many benefits to joining a chain with support tools for a strong career path, job satisfaction and a creative, successful future. See her story on page 56. And speaking of successful futures, it’s never too late to plan for retirement. Do you have a plan in place to ensure you are financially secure when you want to call it quits? How many of you have given an exit strategy some serious thought? Be sure to read I’m Outta Here on page 18 for some helpful tips. That’s good for you, too!


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PUBLISHER’S NOTE ISSN 1197-1495 volume 16 issue 11

www. s a lo n 5 2 . ca

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Stephen Puddister > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | stephen@beautynet.com ART DIRECTOR

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Morella Aguirre > 416.869.3131 ext.105 | morella@beautynet.com

CONTESSA UNPLUGGED

Francie Wyland SENIOR STAFF WRITER

Pam Fulford

EDITORIAL INTERNS

Christina Caicedo ART ASSISTANT / PRODUCTION DESIGNER

ravelling to beauty shows and events on both sides of the border during the first half of the year, I pick up a lot of information through networking and plenty of conversation. I

keep my ears and eyes open for trends relating not only to the aesthetic but also to business. There’s plenty of talk about the labour shortage in our industry, attracting good people, chair rentals, distribution changes, new and old manufacturers, show formats, education–and the list of topics goes on. I’m often impressed at how many people care about our industry and want to make a difference. One of them is Robert Lobetta, Sebastian’s creative director. Morella Aguirre, our associate editor, and I had a chance to sit with Robert at the Chicago Midwest Show this past March. When chatting with Robert, you may not know where the conversation will go, but you can be assured it will be fascinating. We talked about the future of our industry, and I could hear his passion and concerns, much like those I had been feeling. This conversation was the seed of an idea that I brought back to our offices and shared with our team. Imagine having an opportunity for beauty professionals to come together to talk, listen, debate and interact with some of the sharpest minds our industry has to offer. To be able to put a few visionary topics out there and get a dialogue going—how cool would that be? After bouncing the idea off some industry associates and after many phone calls, we had it in the can. Contessa Unplugged was created. Salon Magazine will host this twohour think tank gathering in Toronto, November 5, 2007—the day after the Contessa Awards Gala. Robert Lobetta, Ray Civello (president & CEO of Collega International), and Anna Pacitto-Merlo (co-owner of 10 salons, including the Pure Group, and a beauty school in the Montreal area) will be our guests for a two-hour banter. Check out the ad on page 78 and go to www.salon52.ca for more info. I invite you to join us for this fun, thought-provoking session. It’s a double whammy weekend. Get your Contessa creative fix on Sunday night, then immerse your mind and share your views on Monday with Contessa Unplugged. No jacket required.

Laura Dunphy Publisher

16

COPY EDITOR

salon > september 07

Guillermo Ohno > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | guillermo@beautynet.com CONTRIBUTORS

Malumir R. Beavis, Kim Hughes, Chantel Simmons, John Steinberg, Chris Tsintziras, Colette Wright SENIOR VICE-PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com SENIOR ACCOUNTS MANAGER

Samantha Anobile > 416.869.3131 ext. 109 | samantha@beautynet.com PRODUCTION MANAGER

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com ASSISTANT TO THE PUBLISHER

Cindy Mahabir > 416.869.3131 ext. 119 | cindy@beautynet.com ACCOUNT REPRESENTATIVE

Brandon Stout > 416.869.3131 ext.220 | brandon@beautynet.com CIRCULATION MANAGER

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca ACCOUNTANT

Galina Andrianova > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | galina@beautynet.com PRESIDENT

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com VICE-PRESIDENT & WEST COAST EDITOR

Greg Robins > 604.929.1700 | greg@beautynet.com SUBSCRIPTION RATES FOR CANADA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 GST included 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 GST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location FOR US 1 year (8 issues) $50USD ADDRE SS CH AN GE S Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca

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365 Bloor St. E. Suite 1902 Toronto, ON M4W 3L4 T. 416.869.3131 | F. 416.869.3008 HAIR BILL ROWLEY PHOTO BABAK

T

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR/MANAGING EDITOR (FRENCH) Tina Christopoulos > 514.341.0621 | tina@beautynet.com

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Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, PO Box 357, Beeton ON L0G 1A0 Canada

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HAIRLINES

“H

I’m Outta Here! The reality of retirement is worth planning for for. By Pam Fulford

18

salon > september 07

According to Stephen Smith, owner and manager of Yorkminster Insurance Brokers in Port Hope, Ontario, planning for retirement should start as soon as a new business is stable and not in need of constant capital infusion. Smith has some tips: 1. Develop assets outside the business for better diversification. 2. RRSPs may not be the best option if taxable income is not very high. 3. Real estate investment can be a tax-friendly income stream. “Owning the business’s building could be a good purchase. That way, on sale of the business and not the building, rent could be a good revenue stream,” says Smith. “On the other hand, owning other real estate provides better diversification of your assets. 4. “Selling the salon to employees can be a great idea for both parties,” adds Smith. This option requires clear communication between you and the employees so that transfer of controlling interest happens only when the vendor is ready to step aside and actually retire. “This would help with the transfer of good will to new management and help maintain the loyal client base, ensuring continued success for the new owners.” 5. Ensure your advisor has proper financial and retirement planning accreditation. S

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PHOTO COURTESY GYM GROOMING

airdressers are artists,” states Martin Hillier, co-owner of The Lounge Hair Studio in Vancouver. “They don’t think about finances.” But when Hillier’s partner, Lance Blanchette, a former bank manager, joined the business, he brought the financial aspect into perspective for the salon and staff. “It is a youthful industry,” says Hillier. “Retirement isn’t something that many stylists think of. But we encourage our stylists to make their money work for them—saving, making RRSP contributions, buying into property if possible. We bring investment companies in to speak to the staff about their financial future.” In terms of the salon itself, selling the business would be an excellent retirement option—though far in the future, insists Hillier. “We have worked hard on our reputation, we own our building and the salon functions extremely well. If we wanted to sell, everything would still be in place for a new owner. You have to build up something that someone else wants.” David Hillis, owner of David Hillis Salon and Spa in Toronto, looks back to when he opened his salon and thinks about what he could have done differently. “I wouldn’t have named the salon after myself,” he laughs. “It becomes associated with one person and could make it more difficult to sell in the long run. I would consider franchising—that’s where the real money is to be made.” “Educate yourself,” continues Hillis, who reads books like “It’s a youthful Secrets of the Millionaire Mind industry. and Speed Wealth, both by T. Harv Retirement isn’t Eker. “Choose a successful mentor something many in the industry, someone whose success you’d like to emulate. stylists think of of.” And get the best advice—just remember to direct them to what you want, not vice versa.” While Hillis considers himself an artist first and foremost, he knows he has to “take care of business,” both for his future and retirement.


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COLORS THAT ARE SUMPTUOUS, SOPHISTICATED, AND MAGNIFICENTLY MODERN. Nail Lacquers shown, top to bottom: Cosmo-Not Tonight Honey!, Krème de la Kremlin*,

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If color chart has been removed, contact your Authorized OPI Distributor to receive yours.

Contains no DBP, Toluene, or Formaldehyde. Model is wearing faux fur.

Call 800.341.9999 or visit www.opi.com ©2007 OPI Products Inc.


HAIRLINES

The Gold Standard Redken raises the bar with the relaunch of All Soft

T

HE REDKEN ALL SOFT LINE has been worth its weight in gold since its inception, so when its relaunch was recently announced we had to wonder, “What exactly did they improve?” We got our answer. Once upon a time All Soft was about intense softness and deep conditioning. Now it’s about softness, conditioning and shine. Two new products have also been added, a leave-in cream, Velvet Whip, and a finishing treatment, Gold Glimmer. The secret to All Soft’s new formulation is Redken’s exclusive Silk-Luxe Complex, a softening and shine agent formulated with a new key ingredient, gold camelina. Incorporated into every product, Silk-Luxe works within the hair shaft as well as on the cuticle, creating touchable softness and visible shine. To celebrate the rebirth of All Soft, Redken partnered with Madame Jo designer Joelle Eugenie (pictured left) to create a limited-edition All Soft pashmina, a free gift with purchase of the new All Soft product kit. Go to www.salon52.ca for an exclusive short doc on Madame Jo and the creation of the All Soft pashmina. While you’re there, be sure to watch All Soft hard at work in a candid behind-the-scenes video taken at one of the latest Redken photo shoots.—MA

TOOL TIME

FEATURES > Dermatologist-tested hair extensions remover > Works with UV light to swell bonds, which then easily slip off. The removed hair extension retains 100 per cent of its hair hair. > Cuts down removal time by 75 per cent > Comfortable, single-hand operation and ergonomic design For more, visit www.truehairext.com

20

salon > september 07

NAME New Great Lengths 3200 Thermal Application Machine FEATURES > Smaller, sleeker and more portable than previous models > Only 3 pounds > Comes with an aluminum case, making it ideal for out-ofsalon work For more, visit www.greatlengths.net

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TOP LEFT PHOTO COURTESY REDKEN

NAME True Hair Extensions True Remover



HAIRLINES

That Spa Feeling

Lakmé releases the therapeutic power of k.therapy

d

irect from Lakmé Cosmetics in Spain and available to salons in Canada this month is the new k.therapy line, a functional family of treatments for pesky hair and scalp problems. Combining natural botanical ingredients and properties of the waters from the Zermatt glacier, k.therapy is composed of five sub-lines, each dealing with a specific hair/scalp issue. So no matter the problem, you can help your clients find comfort and well-being with this therapeutic line both at the salon and at home. K.Therapy Active. For hair loss and hair loss prevention, the Active sub-line includes a shock

PHOTOS COURTESY LAKMÉ COSMETICS

concentrate to stimulate the scalp and restore density. In addition to Procapil, a molecule proven to fight hair loss, ingredients include geranium and orange blossom. K.Therapy Peeling. For dandruff issues there’s the Peeling sub-line. Featuring a gel treatment that deals with intense and resistant dandruff, the line contains shampoos for both oily and dry hair. Key ingredients include rosemary and sandalwood extracts. K.Therapy Purifying. For clients with excess sebum production, turn to the Purifying subline for oily hair. Formulated with the astringent properties of bamboo and burdock extract, it contains a purifying mask and a balancing shampoo ideal for both in-salon and at-home use. K.therapy Repair. The Repair sub-line deals with naturally dry or over-processed hair. It is composed of shampoo and conditioner, a hydrating, non-greasy mask, a repair concentrate for twice-weekly use and a repair gel for sealing the hair fibre. Contains babassu and macadamia oils for their moisturizing and lubricating properties. K.Therapy Sensitive. Clients prone to scalp sensitivities will enjoy the hypoallergenic Sensitive sub-line with cotton peptides, aloe vera, bisabolol (the active component of camomile extract), and menthol, all of which have calming and soothing properties. Aside from the relaxing shampoo and balm, the line contains relaxing night drops for an immediate soothing effect.—SP

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HAIRLINES

One Cut. One Donation.

Now in it’s 10th year, the Mane Event revamps its strategy

T

EN YEARS AGO, TORONTO-BASED HAIRSTYLIST STEVE ROY (pictured right) founded the Mane Event, a charitable cut-athon-style fundraiser for children affected by HIV and AIDS. A decade later—and after having raised $170,000 for the Teresa Group, Canada’s oldest communitybased charitable organization serving HIV- and AIDS-affected kids—the Mane Event is still going strong. This year, the objective is to raise $30,000, an impressive goal that organizers hope to achieve one cut at a time. Traditionally a one-day cut-athon, the Mane Event will now become a month-long project in hopes of making participation easier and more accessible to salons and hairstylists. Here’s how it will work: The Mane Event’s prime fundraising day will be Sunday, October 21, 2007. As in previous years, salons will open their doors on this day to offer haircuts, with profits going to the Teresa Group. This will be complemented by a month-long One Cut, One Donation initiative where stylists can donate the price of one haircut to the Mane Event during the month of October. It’s an easy and effective alternative for those wishing to participate in this worthy event. To learn more about the Mane Event and the One Cut, One Donation initiative, visit www.salon52.ca or call 416.596.7703.—MA

About Time!

I

n the battle against the effects of aging, Schwarzkopf has released BC Time Restore, the newest addition to the Bonacure line. The four-product sub-line contains innovative formulations fortified with Q10-technology to meet the specific needs of mature hair. Coenzyme Q10 is proven to restore youthful glow to skin, and now Schwarzkopf Professional has discovered a way to use its potent capabilities on hair, too. It penetrates deep at the root of every hair, reactivating keratin production and promoting healthy regrowth. The line contains a shampoo, conditioner, the Reinforcing Q10 Treatment to restructure and support hair and the Q10 Satin Spray to add volume and shine. —SP

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The Great Canadian Head Shave The Terry Fox Foundation launches a new event On Friday, September 14, 2007 the Terry Fox Foundation will present Terry Fox at Work Day, a national workplace-based fundraiser for cancer research. The day’s premier event is the first-annual Great Canadian Head Shave, a huge head-shaving extravaganza and an awesome opportunity for salons and hairstylists to give back. Shavers, participating workplaces and funds are welcome. Go to www.terryfoxrun.org for more.—MA

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MEMORIZE YOUR SHADE P R E CI S E.

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L U S C I O U S LY

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HAIRLINES

Take a Stand

Standing all day has wreaked havoc on your feet. Put your best foot forward by taking these steps to remedy your foot woe woes By Chantel Simmons

Whether you’re washing, cutting, colouring or styling, you’re likely on your feet all day. While your heels may look hot, your feet may not. Here’s how to pay attention to your feet.

BUNIONS What it looks like: An enlargement of the big toe joint and the drifting of the big toe toward the other toes. The cause: While you might think bunions are hereditary, Toronto-based podiatrist Dr. Hartley Miltchin says most bunions are formed by walking and standing incorrectly. “If there’s an imbalance in the way you walk, it causes the feet to roll in toward the big toe joint,” he says. “The extra weight and stress cause the joint to deform. It’s not just a bump growing on the foot – the big toe starts to drive toward the other toes.” The solution: 20-minute minimal-incision office surgery. Performed under local anesthesia, this treatment involves creating three 1/8-inch incisions in the problem area. Then the bone is realigned. You can walk out of the office afterward. Risks and recovery: No stitches, screws, pins or wires are necessary, and the risk of infection is minimal. Post-surgery, you’ll have to wear a surgical shoe for six weeks, but no crutches are needed to walk. You can resume normal activities within a few days. After six weeks the bandages are removed. Cost: $4,500.

H A M M E R TO E S What it looks like: A toe permanently bent in the middle, often overlapping with another toe. A hammer toe can cause a corn to form on the top of the toe. The cause: Flat feet or high arches, bunions or wearing insensible (yet sexy) shoes can all cause hammer toes. The solution: Try wearing fitted, low-heeled or running shoes, or inserting non-medicated pads into shoes, which may relieve pressure. If these options don’t correct the problem, minimal-incision surgery may be an option. As in correcting bunions, small incisions are made into the troublesome toe and it is realigned. Risks and recovery: As with bunions, you’ll need to wear a surgical shoe for six weeks afterward. You’ll have stitches, screws, pins or wires but will be able to walk aftterward. Risk of infection is minimized since incisions are tiny. Cost: $1,200 per toe.

CORNS What it looks like: Corns are small, yellowish bumps that appear on toes. The cause: Corns are often caused by pressure and friction (if you’re squeezing your feet into too-small shoes). The rubbed skin thickens to protect the toe, eventually forming a corn. Corns may form on hammer (bent) toes. The solution: Wear shoes that leave enough space above your toes so they don’t rub against the shoe. Once a day, soak your feet in warm water and apply baby oil to the corn. With a pumice stone, gently slough off the top few layers of the corn. Then apply a corn pad. If these methods don’t work, minimal incision surgery can remove the corns. The treatment works the same way as with bunions and hammer toes and the risks and recovery are similar. Cost: About $1,200 per toe.

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HEEL PAIN What it looks like: If you have chronic heel pain, you'll feel it whenever you stand after you’ve been sitting (or sleeping). Left untreated, the pain can become constant, even when sitting. Cause: Heel pain is caused by overpronation (when the foot rolls inward). As a result, the fascia bands in the feet must stretch, which pulls the heel bone, causing swelling and pain and eventually a heel spur. The solution: Minor heel pain may be treated with heel taping, cortisone injections, anti-inflammatories, laser treatment, ultrasound, radial soundwave therapy (RST) or prescription orthotics. If these solutions fail, endoscopic plantar fasciotomy may be an option. A microscopic camera is inserted into the heel area, detaching a portion of the fascia from the heel bone where it’s pulling. Usually, you’ll just require five or six stitches. Risks and recovery: You can wear your regular shoes again in a few days and exercise after six weeks. Common risks are infection, numbness or delayed healing and aching in the heel area. Since introducing RST to Canada in 2002, Dr. Miltchin has found it, as well as more conservative treatments, have worked on almost 100 per cent of patients. Cost (of RST): $600 for first foot; $900 for both feet (at the same time). S For more information on Dr. Miltchin or to schedule a comprehensive consultation at Accent on Feet, call 416-635-8637, 1-866-535-8637 or visit www.accentonfeet.com Chantel Simmons is the editor-in-chief of Elevate magazine, covering anti-aging, enhancement and wellness.

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C

Pink Power

anadian hair extension manufacturer NeoExtensions is joining in the fight against breast cancer with a unique charitable product, the NeoPink Highlight. A 14-inch, pale pink synthetic clip-in sold for about $1.50 at salons, the NeoPink Higlight is designed to raise funds and awareness and empower those affected by breast cancer. One hundred per cent of profits from the NeoPink Highlight will be donated to the Weekend to End Cancer, a national organization that schedules walking circuits in major city centres, raises funds and donates them to hospitals researching cancer. Toronto’s End Cancer Walk will take place September 7 to 9. Salons raising over $2,000 from sales of the NeoPink Highlight will be invited to participate in the walk. For more info visit www.neoextensions.net or www.endcancer.ca.—MA

������ ������������� ��������������������������������� ���������������������������������� ������������������������� ������������������������������� ����������������

British Bash Salon International is tops for fall OCTOBER 13 TO 15 IS A GREAT TIME TO HIT LONDON for a beauty bash like no other. Fantastic live shows and education with the likes of current British Hairdresser of the Year Andrew Barton and the Saks artistic team, along with teams like Mahogany, Rush and Vidal Sassoon are a must-see. The amazing Tim Hartley is on the roster again this year, as is the Inspirational Youth presented by TIGI. The time to book is now. Visit the Salon International website (www.salonexhibitions.co.uk) for ticket info and call your travel agent to book flights and hotel.—SP

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september 07 < salon

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HAIRLINES

I

The beauties of Cannes

t’s the world’s only festival that has paparazzi donning black-tie attire. The historical Cannes Film Festival is synonymous with glamour, prestige and, above all, ultimate celebrity visibility. So it’s no wonder that our favourite stars walked the red carpet looking stunningly chic to celebrate Cannes’s 60th anniversary. These dazzling beauties set the summer makeup trends with the help of the L’Oréal Paris team—the event’s official makeup artists for the 10th year in a row.—TC

Angelina Jolie There is nothing more flattering than a naturally stunning complexion and long, cascading waves. This lady always shows that a little does go a long way.

Eva Mendes Soft and fuzzy was the mood for these peachy cheeks. Eva Mendes was radiant in goldentoned peach blush and well-defined eyes.

Kerry Washington PHOTOS COURTESY L’ORÉAL PARIS

An abundance of soft curls framed Kerry Washington’s pretty face but didn’t distract from her long, full lashes and ashy grey eye shadow that made her eyes pop.

Kylie Minogue Kylie Minogue’s classic bun with side-swept bangs and regal pose were worthy of a modern-day princess.

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GALERIE CONTESSA

Rédigé par Stephen Puddister

Muse britannique M Finaliste aux prix Contessa de 2007 et Maitre-coiffeur d’élite aux prix Contessa de 2006, Suzanne Martin base sa collection sur l’Angleterre.

J

e crois que mes racines britanniques

influencent ma perspective des coiffures gagnantes! Ma famille habite dans le comté de Cumbria, en Angleterre, et je profite du temps que j’y passe. Il y a beaucoup de concours et de nouvelles idées dans les défilés de coiffure au Royaume-Uni. Je reviens toujours la tête remplie d’idées. Ma collection s’inspire des prix British Hairstylist of the Year de 2006 : jolie, féminine et très facile à porter. Mon amour de l’Angleterre et de sa mode m’étourdit! Quand j’ai vu les coiffures des prix British Hairstylist of the Year, elles m’ont semblé tout à fait dé-li-cieuses! Ce que les femmes veulent vraiment? Elles veulent être jolies. Quand on est coiffeur, il faut décider si on vise les coiffures modernes, folles ou jolies et portables. Je tends généralement vers les lignes nettes et les bouquets de boucles douces. En juin dernier, lors de la séance de photo pour cette collection, il semblait clair que la coupe au carré était d’actualité, ainsi que le blond platine. Les vêtements choisis étaient blancs crémeux, ornés de dentelle, très féminins; des couches de jolis vêtements montrant la texture de la dentelle, du satin et des cotons transparents. qu’elle a rendu doux et net.

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Ma fille Miranda s’est occupée du maquillage,

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MEN

Tattoo You

Some call it hair tattooing, others call it hair etching and others simply call it razoring. Regardless, the popularity of this highly personalized service has grown drastically over the past year, achieving mainstream success in most urban centres. “Hair tattooing is design work in the hair using patterns, pictures, lines, etc.,” says Simon Shaw, European artistic director for the clipper company Wahl. “It’s been around for years, probably emerging around the early 80s from backstreet barbers as part of breakdancing and skateboarding culture. I put its recent rise in popularity to the fact that it’s so different than traditional hairstyling. Top sport personalities, particularly footballers (soccer players), can often be seen nowadays with these types of haircuts,” explains Shaw. Kat Marcus, a member of the Canadian Wahl artistic team and self-titled Mr. Manager at Toronto’s Blood Sweat & Shears hair design and tattoo studio, says she first trained to do hair etching at a salon specializing in African hair. “Kids were always getting calligraphy done, getting words etched on their hair. Now it’s catching on outside the black community.” The time it takes to complete a hair tattoo varies depending on the intricacy of the design. “Anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour,” says Shaw. However, at Blood Sweat & Shears Marcus finds the most-requested designs are not very complicated. “Most people just want a couple of lines, and that can be done very quickly.” To create sharp lines, Wahl artists use small, precision blade trimmers like the Wahl Mag and the Wahl Sterling 2 because of their size, ergonomic design and sharpness. The company has also recently introduced two high-precision attachments for the ChroMini and the BravMini that are ideal for crisp linear shapes. Larger tools like the Wahl Chromado are generally used to shade in values and build lighter and darker areas within a design. “We run a clipper design course through the Wahl Academy to give insight into this type of hairstyling,” explains Shaw. “It’s one of only a few of its kind, so we’re getting all kinds of hairstylists participating—from juniors right up to salon owners and platform artists.” In Canada, hair tattooing will the Wahl’s primary educational focus for the next year, so classes will be readily available. And if you’re looking to practise, Marcus suggests doing some pro bono work. “Put up a sign at your salon saying you’re looking for models.” Other hair etching tips from Marcus include being mindful of your posture (back straight, legs shoulder-width apart, knees slightly bent), working on your hand control and drawing in your design prior to cutting or trimming if you’re just starting out. Finally, there’s the question of pricing. How much should you charge? And should this be an add-on service or included with the price of a cut? In England, says Simon Shaw, some stylists are charging top dollar for intricate designs. “You can charge up to £40 an hour for this type of service,” he says—that’s about $85 CAD. For Marcus’s hipster clientele in downtown T.O., she plays it by ear, assessing each client based on complexity of design and giving one rate for both cut and etching. At the end of the day, stylists offering etchings are giving their clients something unique, a personalized and artistic signature that will set that cut apart from others. A sound businessman as well as a talented artist, Shaw concludes: “It’s certainly worth investing in this service. It’s something different than what your competitors are likely offering.”—MA

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PHOTOS COURTESY WAHL PROFESSIONAL

Back-street breakdance style goes mainstream urban


MIX IT UP!

NEW!

Art Elements MIX

©2007 DAVEXLABS LLC

Hi-Def Wax. Rugged Texture. Flicked-Out Styles.

HEALING IS THE FOUNDATION FOR BEAUTIFUL HAIR | For Your Nearest Distributor, Call 800-423- 0307 | lanza.com


SCENE

TIGI

P R E S E N T S

BY STEPHEN PUDDISTER | PHOTOS MICHAEL BANASIAK

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Back on Canadian soil after a nine-year hiatus, Anthony Mascolo and the TIGI international creative team, including Zak Mascolo, Nick Irwin and James Morrison, wowed a crowd of over 300 at Toronto’s Liberty Grand on June 12, 2007. The team presented several variations of collections past and offered a peek at the upcoming TIGI World Release, an annual TIGI gathering taking place in Las Vegas this month. But the evening’s main event was the introduction of TIGI P. Colour, the company’s much-anticipated new line of permanent hair colour. Check out www.salon52.ca this month for candid backstage shots, more runway coverage and an exclusive interview with Anthony Mascolo discussing celebrity obsession, pricing and the future of the industry. S

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C O N T E S S A G A L L E RY

Edited by Stephen Puddister

British Muse

Contessa 18 finalist and 2006 Contessa Elite Master winner Suzanne Martin looks to Britain for inspiration

I

believe my British heritage affects the

way I see award-winning style. My family lives in the Lake District of Cumbria, England, and I like to take advantage of my time there by attending hair shows and competitions. I always come home with a head full of new ideas. My great love of England and its fashion never fails to inspire me. My collection evolved from the British Hairdressing Awards 2006. The collections I saw

there were so pretty, feminine and

wearable—they just looked so delicious to me. Moreover, they made me wonder, what do women really want from their hairstyle? I concluded that most women want to look pretty in what they’re wearing. As a stylist creating a photographic collection, one has to decide whether to portray edgy hair, crazy hair or very wearable, pretty hair. I generally lean towards the wearable—with lots of clean lines and soft, bundled curls. Last June, when I shot these photos, it was clear that the bob was revisiting us and that platinum hair colour was peeking in big time. Because I wanted to focus on the hair, I decided on a sepia-style treatment that would emphasize the model’s hair colour. Clothing choices were peachy, creamy whites that were strappy, girly and feminine. Lots of little pieces, layering and different textures like lace, satin and shear cottons. My daughter Miranda Fox did the makeup. As with the other elements, we kept it soft and clean.

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â–ź

Hair: Suzanne Martin, Three Small Rooms, Barrie, Ontario Makeup: Miranda Fox Wardrobe: Laura Dimarcantonio Photos: Babak

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C O N T E S S A G A L L E RY

Silver Fox Among other British muses, Martin looked to the style of Academy Award-winning actress Helen Mirren (pictured right) for inspiration. Martin creates the silver fox look on a strong-fringed, layered bob (left).

Inspiration Suzanne Martin’s Contessa

18 storyboard

Finishing Touch HELEN MIRREN, KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY

Martin added polish to her models’ hair using L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.art finishing products.

Golden Girl Makeup artist Miranda Fox designed soft, golden looks using Cargo cosmetics. Warm tones, clean contouring, lots of lashes and glossy lips were all on the agenda. S

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state of an art

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Upcoming Great Lengths Education Seminars MONTREAL • September 9-10 | VANCOUVER • October 14-15

TORONTO • September 23-24, October 28-29, November 18-19, December 2-3 *In-house seminars available by special arrangement. Learn more about joining the Great Lengths Certified Salon Network today by calling HSC International at 1-800-461-9302 or write to us at info@hscinternational.com.


2007 Fall Trend Report Edited by Morella Aguirre and Tina Christopoulos

f

RUNWAY PHOTO MARK MCNEILLY

rom modern minimalism to romantic vintage, this season’s hair, fashion, makeup and nail trends offer diverse visions for fall 2007. Here, we break down autumn’s hottest looks.

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Hair: Antoinette Beenders, global creative director of Aveda Makeup: Attracta, Wardrobe: Karl Plewka, Photos: Zanna

Gender Bender

T

his season’s nod to la garçonne incorporates tailored menswear, powerful but clean faces and circular tomboy cuts. Think Annie Lennox in her Eurythmics days: strong, androgynous and dramatic. Aveda’s global creative director, Antoinette Beenders, masterfully carves out boy-meetsgirl haircuts in the Cirque de Femme and Short Cuts collections, while Pink Tartan offers a feminine take on masculine staples at the line’s fall showing. And don’t forget to load up your tomboy with shadowy eyeliners and dark and captivating nail colours.

RUNWAY PHOTOS MARK MCNEILLY

Selections from Aveda’s fall/winter 2007 Face Colour collection and Spa Ritual’s fall 07 Intuitive collection.

Pink Tartan fall/winter 2007 collection

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coming soon . . . the new bain de terre nature’s prescription for beautiful hair

©2007 Piidea Canada Ltd., Bain de Terre Division, Pointe-Claire QC


Hair: JPMS Master Associate Pamela Peretti and JPMS Senior Associate Lizanne Laurin Makeup: Billy B, Wardrobe: Emma Trask, Photos: Spicer

Vintage Glam

G

lamour goes vintage with retro shapes reminiscent of old Hollywood charm. The overall look is sensual, ladylike and sophisticated. Paul Mitchell artists Pamela Peretti and Lizanne Laurin offer an updated take on classic long hairstyling with volumized updos and swirling pin curls. In his latest collection, David Dixon reworks vintage blazers, dresses and suits to portray a dressedup, elegant and sexy woman. Look to Essie’s Glamour Girl fall 07 collection or the newest products from Glominerals cosmetics for coordinating nail and makeup colours.

RUNWAY PHOTOS MARK MCNEILLY

Selections from Essie’s Glamour Girl fall 07 collection and Glominerals’ latest makeup collection.

David Dixon fall/winter 2007 collection

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Rapport Tendances Automne 2007 Préparé par Morella Aguirre et Tina Christopoulos

D

PHOTO DE DÉFILÉ PAR MARK MCNEILLY

u minimalisme moderne à l’élégance classique, la coiffure, la mode, le maquillage et les ongles offrent des perspectives diverses sur l’automne 2007. Voici les looks de l’heure.

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septembre 07 < s a l o n

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FOR CUTTING OUT

CHILD POVERTY

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Hair: RUSH London artistic team, Photos: courtesy Goldwell

Tough Luxe

L

RUNWAY PHOTOS MARK MCNEILLY

uxury gets tough this season with hard-line, biker-inspired looks. Seasoned cutting techniques and high-shine finishes balance the bad-girl attitude with a healthy shot of designer chic. Known for its work with leather detailing and accessories, Canadian label Rudsak showcases its trademark style with a black-on-black colour palette. Across the pond, Britain’s RUSH London team works with luminous, high-shine hair and smooth geometric shapes in its new Switch Collection. Dark tones from the Russian Collection by OPI top off this hard-hitting trend. S

Selections from the Russian Collection by OPI

Rudsak fall/winter 2007 collection

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THE LATEST INNOVATION IN PROFESSIONAL MAKEUP

1-800-667-2566 UNCOVERED 21.09.07


“I want to play with white and colour.”

ColourBoom L’Oréal Professionnel introduces Color Suprême, the first line of anti-aging hair colour By Morella Aguirre

Brought to you in partnership with L’Oréal Professionnel 50

salon > september 07

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l

“I don’t want to see a single white hair.”

’Oréal Professionnel’s new Color Suprême is the first true anti-aging permanent hair colour. Designed to cover high percentages of white hair, add volume, density and luminosity, the 18-shade Color Suprême line is poised to create a new and specialized colour category at the salon, a category that caters to the most influential consumer group in the country: the baby boomer market.

The Boomer Paradox

Canadian women between 25 and 34 years of age visit the salon about 4.3 times a year. Those between 35 and 44 visit about 5.5 times a year. The next major age bracket—45- to 54- year-olds—average about 6.3 salon appointments a year. This rises to 10.3 yearly visits for women 55 to 64. Finally, women 65 and older find themselves at their salon an impressive 16.2 times a year. So you get the picture: as women mature, they treat themselves to the salon experience more often. Part of the baby boomer generation, women born between 1946 and 1966 therefore represent an important clientele base for salons. And in many ways, they’re ideal salon customers—they’re loyal, have more disposable income and like spending on products and services that make them feel and look their best. But now get this: research demonstrates that even though salon visits increase as a woman matures, she makes less and less use of hair colour services, particularly after she reaches the age of 60. This is what L’Oréal Professionnel is calling the boomer paradox, and it’s a major reason behind the development of Color Suprême, the first permanent hair colour line designed specifically with the baby boomer in mind. “Our information and statistics come from a study conducted by a market research firm for L’Oréal Canada. It’s quite extensive, surveying 6,865 women throughout the country and covering the whole hair colour market—salon colour and home colour,” says Dominic Tremblay, brand director for L’Oréal Professionnel.

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“I want to add some texture to my white hair.”

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“Color Suprême is the first brand of permanent hair colour to answer the needs of baby boomers. It’s a specialized product that brings a unique colour option to women with at least 80 per cent white hair and, most importantly, adds volume. With Color Suprême, stylists and colourists can make sure female boomers do not stop using colour as they might with traditional permanent colouring products.” In other words, Color Suprême delivers results and colour options to the boomer client—a very lucrative and dependable niche colour market whose needs have been largely overlooked. Its technology targets the visible signs of aging while allowing women to achieve new colour effects and play with their hair as a fashion accessory.

Suprême Fundamentals

Hair changes with age. It loses its colour due to a decline in melanin production, its density and elasticity diminish because of slower cellular renewal, and it becomes dull and fragile from hormonal fluctuations. The result is white hair lacking density and shine. Color Suprême’s unique two-tier system works specifically on these challenges. Its dual action not only adds colour and luminosity to white hair, but also intensifies volume as it conditions.

Colour Class “Color Suprême deposits a specific balance of pigments that guarantee 100 per cent coverage exclusively to white hair,” says Colin Ford, education and events director for L’Oréal Professionnel. “Until now the technologies available for grey coverage have been opaque colours that result in a helmet-like effect. But natural hair is multi-tonal, so what we’ve done is formulate each shade in the Color Suprême line with more than one tone, ensuring a luminous, double reflect. Women get the amount of coverage they desire as well as natural-looking, flattering highlights.” Moreover, Color Suprême eliminates guesswork. It’s a no-mix hair colour requiring no addition of a natural or golden natural fundamental shade—the traditional way of getting extra coverage on white hair, which often leads to that dreaded helmet effect. “Simply select the chosen shade, mix with 20-volume Maji Crème developer and the result will perfectly match the swatch,” explains Ford. “Your client will receive exactly what she has chosen in a short 30-minute development time.” The 18 shades that make up the line are mostly light blonde tones, since these are colours more in demand with the boomer market and tend to flatter aging facial features. However, dark shades are available. Women wishing to wear their hair silver are also ideal Color Suprême clients.

The Anti-Aging Element Aside from the natural coverage and luminosity it provides, Color Suprême also delivers unique anti-aging properties, very cleverly targeting the loss of volume and elasticity that comes about as hair ages. A key ingredient—a patented molecule called Densilum-R—is included in Color Suprême’s formulation. This tiny particle is made up of a trio of active ingredients: Ionène G, Incell and softening waxes. These components serve to strengthen hair’s structure on its surface and in its cuticle and cortex. “Ionène G protects the integrity of hair at the cortex level and diminishes surface irregularities,” explains Ford. “Incell reinforces hair’s natural defences against daily aggressions by strengthening the intercellular ciment in the cuticle layer. The softening waxes smooth the hair and improve surface qualities. The result is an increase in volume and density.” Permanent colour made specifically to cover white hair and add density to hair that’s lost its body is a totally new thing, making Color Suprême a true innovation and the first real anti-aging permanent colour. And, really, why just cover white or just add volume when you can do both?

Service Time

Introducing Color Suprême at your salon is quite simple. First of all Color Suprême involves a simple and efficient colouring process. “There’s no guesswork,” reiterates Ford. “And even if a client has been using traditional colour, by the time she’s due for a retouch her colour will have faded somewhat. In a case like this, you would choose a Color Suprême shade close to the colour she’s wearing, apply on the regrowth and take through the ends for the final five minutes of development time.” In fact, creative and technical flexibility are important pillars of the Color Suprême philosophy. “We’ve developed four signature Color Suprême services,” says Ford. “They’re creative ways to use the product just as we would with any other colour service, using partial, block colouring, hightlights and lowlights.”

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The four services—Suprême Touch, Suprême Balance, Total Suprême and Suprême Lights—were developed with the understanding that not every client desires the same look and that many women crave styles that allow for the appearance of natural white hair. A service like Suprême Touch for example, allows the wearer to play with colour and white. Suprême Balance goes a step further and is ideal for women wishing to add texture and contrast to their white hair. Total Suprême and Suprême Lights offer complete coverage, with Total Suprême working mostly with lighter shades and Suprême Lights colouring with darker, contrasting hues but offering a few light strands–avoiding a hardening of facial features. Obviously, each service needs to be tailored to the individual client. And doing this may likely involve using Color Suprême on areas of the head with a high concentration of white hair and a traditional permanent colour on areas with low concentration of white. According to Ford, “many women have a high percentage of white hair in the front of the head and naturally pigmented hair through the rest. With these women, stylists can use Color Suprême on the 80 to 100 per cent white hair in front, and another colour, like Majirel or Richesse, in the back.” As always, a good consultation is key. “Baby boomers demand a lot of information and take their time to evaluate their choices,” reminds Tremblay. Ford adds: “Still, most mature women are conscious of their aging skin and know they need to use specific skin products for their age.” So take your time and talk to boomers about Color Suprême. Explain the benefits and the potential of the product and the services. Your consultation will not fall on deaf ears.

“I want to keep a dark colour without hardening my features.”

Photos speak a thousand words. For this reason, L’Oréal Professionnel produced four Color Suprême model photos, each showcasing a signature Color Suprême service. Gracing the pages here, the Color Suprême models are beautiful, mature women who defy the aging woman stereotype. Other material introducing Color Suprême at the salon includes a swatch book with detachable swatches, banners, an official guide and consultation cards to help colourists diagnose percentages of white hair. Finally, a mother/daughter referral program has been created to promote clientele growth. Based on the refer-a-friend principle, the program encourages daughters to send their mothers a postcard encouraging them to try a Color Suprême service. “To refer a friend to a salon is always effective. But to refer your mom is even more effective, because mothers trust their daughters completely,” states Tremblay. “Every mother trying a Color Suprême service will be treated to a free Série Expert masque treatment in salon. And daughters will receive the same special treatment.” S

To learn more about incorporating Color Supr Suprême at your salon, visit www.lorealprofessionnel.com.

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PHOTOS COURTESY L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

Promo Material


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By Pam Fulford

The Chain Game

T

Cutting through the salon chain stereotype

here’s a perception out there that salon chains are not a cool place to work. But according to Peter Mahoney, president of the well-respected chain The Head Shoppe, the reality is quite different. “Lack of artistic licence in chains is just a myth,” he says. “Stylists think there’s more freedom at an independent salon, but that’s not necessarily true.” In fact, Mahoney believes salon chains offer a lot of opportunity. “An employee can come in as a junior stylist and end up owning his or her own franchise,” he says, pointing to The Head Shoppe’s 90 per cent employee retention rate as an indication that they’re doing something right. Other successful chains also emphasize employee satisfaction. “Success is based on how happy our people are—they must be well-trained and respected,” states Milajne Soligo, vice-president of The Megahair Family. “Growing our staff and offering them possibilities in all aspects of the business is our biggest focus.” And as for the cool factor, Chatters Canada chief operating officer Jason Volk sees it as a non-factor. “Our salons are designed to be hot, hip and well-merchandised. They appeal to both clients and stylists,” he says. Keeping goals firmly in mind is a key factor in the success of a salon chain. As Mahoney puts it, “The salon chain model is a business first and a salon second.” To this end, these salon groups have strong, organized systems in place: marketing, computing, inventory, cost control, etc. They understand their market and work with it. For example, Mahoney is very clear that “price is significant for consumers who patronize chains. So generally, chains are more comparable to Holiday Inns rather than boutique hotels.” A systematic and organized approach is therefore extremely important. “We standardize everything,” says Soligo. “Staff is trained on the proper way to greet clients, managers are given sales targets—everything is covered in the training manual. Nothing is arbitrary.” While chains are profit-driven, they recognize that a happy staff promotes success, as it creates a more positive experience for the clientele. Perks for chain staff typically include medical and health benefits, contributions to RRSP’s, bonuses, travel opportunities and education. In addition, ongoing assessment and feedback are part of everyday life, and there are opportunities for extras like competitions and wellness classes. Mahoney points out that salary is not the top priority for stylists. “In a recent survey, respect was listed as number one, closely followed by the desire to be part of a team.” Chains also benefit from a huge advantage that only size can bring. “I sometimes say that we’re in the real estate business,” says Volk. “Chatters employs three full-time staff just to scout locations for our salons.” Because of their financial clout, chains have a great deal of leverage when negotiating

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for leases. They are established tenants who research and collect facts and figures before making a move. “We talk to would-be neighbours, look at traffic patterns, research the best time to open a new salon,” continues Volk. “And a big-box store in a mall is much more likely to share this kind of information with a chain than with an independent.” Unlike many independents, salon chains also put incredible emphasis on retail sales. “It’s so important,” says Soligo. “The client must be able to replicate the style at home. It solidifies the salon experience.” And check out this statistic from Mahoney: stylists with the highest retail sales have the highest client retention rate. “In our salons, retail sales account for 21 percent of our business,” he says. “And staff can make up to 20 per cent commission. So a stylist selling $500 a week can make $100 extra.” In terms of the independent versus chain salon debate, there are distinct advantages to both. “Independents thrive on a European-type street feel, which can be very successful but not easy to multiply,” says Volk. Adds Mahoney, “The advantage of being independent is having the owner on site. Their key to success is what that owner does. But do they have a plan, are they strategizing, do they have anyone to talk to if there’s a problem?” Mahoney, who has a master’s in finance and achieved success through The Head Shoppe, ironically prefers to think of chains as a group of independent salons. He is a very successful consultant for independents, offering business programs through his Salon Consultants International group in conjunction with Summit Salon Business College. “It provides independents with the management skills to run a successful business,” he says. “You don’t have to be part of a chain to benefit from these lessons.” S

For future opportunities, here is a shortlist of salon chains in Canada.

• • • • • • • • • • • •

Chatters, www.chatters.ca Hennessey Salon + Spa, www.hennesseysalonspa.com The Megahair Family, www.megahairfamily.com The HeadShoppe, www.headshoppe.ca Fantastic Sams, www.fantasticsams.com First Choice Haircutters, www.firstchoice.com Magicuts, www.magicutssalons.com Trade Secrets, www.tradesecrets.ca Premier Salons, www.premiersalons.com Topcuts, www.topcuts.com Frenzy, L’Attitudes, Natural Solutions, Nino D’Arena, NRG and Tonyc, 905.947.8141 Supercuts, www.supercuts.com

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By Tina Christopoulos

Clockwise: At the Toronto Redken Exchange, Terry Ritcey, Joelle Adler, Grammy Award-nominated UK soul artist Joss Stone and Doriane Dalati. Canadian singer-songwriter Chantal Kreviazuk with her sons arrives to get her hair cut. Chantal Kreviazuk with Canadian Idol Eva Avila and Joelle Adler.

A Cut Above

Canadian salons unite to fight youth poverty during Redken’s first national cut-athon to benefit the One X One foundation

I

n a great show of solidarity among the hairstyling community, almost 200 salons across the country participated in Redken’s first annual national cut-athon on June 3, 2007. All the proceeds and donations from cuts and in-salon services provided that Sunday were donated to One X One, a non-profit foundation committed to supporting, preserving and improving the life of children in Canada and around the world. Feedback, images and letters expressing how gratifying an experience it was for salons poured into the Redken offices in the following weeks. Here are some images from a few of the participating salons. S

Stylists supporting the cause at Exit Salon in Toronto

The team at The Gate House in Oshawa, Ontario

The Carte Blanche team in Montreal

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At FADS Salon and Spa in Ottawa, National Chief of the Assembly of First Nations Phil Fontaine was one of the first public figures to show his commitment to this cause by getting his signature ponytail cut off.

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U Under the Boardwalk Jason Kearns reinvents the bun in a sultry, vintage-inspired collection Te x t b y M o r e l l a A q u i r r e

B

uns have been a staple of long hairstyling for centuries.

“Look back in history, down to Renaissance art and the bun was a major feature. It really is one of the oldest hairstyles,” explains Jason Kearns, creator of the Buns Collection. Throughout its long life, the bun has become a symbol of women, representing female characters like the dancer, the politician, the sophisticated lady and even the spinster or the librarian. Now Kearns is breathing new life into this timeless updo by fusing it with 40s-inspired retro glamour. “I wanted to skip the whole pin-up girl cliché—to me that’s just too obvious. I like to show an idea in a different way and make it my own,” says Kearns. Taking two years to complete, the Buns Collection does just that: it gives the imaginative styling of buns.

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viewer a sense of vintage glamour while depicting a modern placement and

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Collection: The Buns Collection Hair, art direction and concept: Jason Kearns Makeup: Hanoch Wardrobe: Lorraine Langlois Model: Next Canada Photos: Richard Dubois

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“Calm and silence, light and elementary geometries, materials and symbols generate an elegant simplicity, with the aim of countering the frenetic pace of today’s world.” Claudio Silvestrin

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Joico presents HI:DEF for fall 2007 Text by Morella Aguirre

Art Movement H

ighly defined precision cutting is mixed with a dizzying assault of colour in Joico’s latest visual offering, a four-model collection titled HI:DEF. Studying the movable sculptures of Alexander Calder, the American artist who

invented the mobile, Joico international artistic director Damien Carney creates sharp and versatile cuts that appear different from all angles and come to life as they move. The brilliant colouring concept comes care of Vero K-PAK international artistic colour director Sue Pemberton, who looked to the work of abstract expressionist painters like Jackson Pollack and Willem de Kooning for ideas and inspiration. Working with the notion of organized chaos Carney’s cutting techniques to shape intense but loose line and colour patterns.

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and forming shape through the use of vivid colour blocks, Pemberton works in unity with

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Collection: HI:DEF, Joico fall/winter 2007 Hair: Damien Carney Colour: Sue Pemberton Photos: Hama Sanders

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TA N N I N G Te x t b y Tina Christopoulos

Fair Trade Encourage your clients to buy professional lotions with Uvalux’s Go Pro promotion

T

anning lotions are a big part of your business and your client’s result. Are you asking your clients what lotion they use when they visit your salon? Are they getting the tan they expect? If they’re using non-professional products, chances are they’re not. Let your clients know:

NON-PROFESSIONAL LOTIONS: • Prevent their darkest tan • Do not protect their skin while tanning

PROFESSIONAL LOTIONS: • Allow them to tan faster, stay dark longer and get a darker tan

������������������������������� ������������������������������������ ��� ������������������������������� ������������������������������������������������� ���������������������������������������������� ������������������������������ �

In an effort to reduce the quantity of mass-market, outdoor products being used by customers in tanning salons, Uvalux Tanning & Support has launched the “Go Pro” promotion. “Tanning salons are losing lotion sales to non-professional, low-grade alternatives. As a result, tanners are receiving poor results. This reflects badly on the tanning salon business and the tanning industry as a whole,” says Nik Van Haeren, president of Uvalux. The program is cost-effective and helps the tanning salon provide customers with a professional-grade lotion alternative. The approach is simple. Ask your clients what lotion they’re using. If it’s a nonprofessional product, ask if they’re willing to trade it in for a free

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P R E S S PA S S bottle of Caribbean Gold—Miss Me in return. All you have to do then is send back the returned bottles to Uvalux and receive new bottles of Miss Me from Uvalux for free. In addition, Uvalux provides you with free marketing support material in the form of catchy “Wanted” ads, including 11 x 17 mini-posters and tent cards.

Figure 8 Supre introduces Ocho Increasing your clients’ tan and their knowledge of the Spanish language at the same time (ocho means eight in Spanish) is Supre’s Ocho Max 8 Smooth Bronzer. Its unique combination of potent dark tanning elements and streakfree, self-tanning bronzers creates a smooth, deep tan for that sexy, hot tamale look. S

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ESTHETICS

INSPIRED BEAUTY Canadian entrepreneur puts cachet into professional cosmetics By Pam Fulford

A

ccording to Sharon Sharpe-Titus, inspiration is more likely to come from years of experience than from a bolt of lightning. The creator of SST Signature Series cosmetics, she thinks of the development of her new professional-only makeup as the result of what she’s done and accomplished. Her impressive resumé includes years as a model, makeup artist, hair stylist and educator for a major cosmetic line. In addition, she and her husband own the distribution firm ESP Salon Sales based in Saskatoon. “I wanted to work with makeup that was more cutting-edge,” admits Sharpe-Titus. “But none of the major players were coming to the table. It was time to control my own destiny.” What she wanted were cosmetics that were naturally based and easy to apply. In addition, her years as an amateur artist had given her a finely honed sense of rich colour. After extensive research, she had a very clear idea of what she wanted, but taking the next step was more difficult. “I realized I couldn’t do this all on my own, so I hired two makeup design and consulting firms—one in New York and one in Italy—to help me out.” Sharpe-Titus would meet with them over everything from colour to formulas to packaging. “However, I still had the final say.” The result is a range of cosmetics for the face (foundations, powders, bronzers), lips (lipsticks, polishes) and eyes (shadows, pencils, mascara). Products are fragrance-free, with the exception of naturally occurring scents like vanilla and mint. Harsh chemicals have been taken out, powders are talc-free and no parabens (a preservative) are used. The emphasis is on natural ingredients—Vitamins A, C and E along with green tea extract and jojoba oil—with hyaluronic acid to smooth skin and micronized tourmaline for luminescence. “The biggest compliment we’ve had so far is that both the consulting firms I hired would like to represent the line, one in the United States and one in Europe,” says Sharpe-Titus. The SST Signature Series will be launched at the Allied Beauty Association Show in Regina on September 23. To find out more, contact ESP Salon Sales at 800.667.2566. S

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T

By Morella Aguirre

he look was rocker geisha,” says makeup artist Cheryl Gushue of her work at the Sex Drugs and Rock n Roll 2007 fall fashion show. “Not a literal translation of the traditional geisha, of course, but a modern, stylized version. Graphically it worked great on stage, because the look was prominent from far away.” Held at the Phoenix nightclub in downtown Toronto as part of L’Oréal Fashion Week, the SDnR fall show embodied the line’s gritty and sexy trademark style. Think torn denim, metal hardware detailing, graffitistyle printing and body-conscious cuts. Combined with this street rocker vibe was a geisha feel, a style element

concept. So I researched, created suitable looks for both genders and made the final decision with the designers,” explains Gushue. Taking about about 20 minutes for the girls and 15 minutes for the guys, Gushue’s work had a rock-star-in-concert feeling that focused on a heavy, black-lined eye. “One female look had the eyes outlined in black and a graphic red brow. The other had even heavier eye makeup and vibrant red geishastyle lips. The look for the guys was simpler and mainly the lines on their eyes were bolder.” Sufficient to say, the show oozed personality. From the venue to the

largely interpreted though makeup. “The designers had an idea of what they wanted. They needed two distinct looks to bring to life a rival gang

garments, shoes and makeup, the SDnR team presented a coherent concept and locked it into a complete head-to-toe look. S

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PHOTOS MORELLA AGUIRRE

Makeup artist Cheryl Gushue creates her own brand of Asian fusion at L’Oréal Fashion Week


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NAILS

Edited by Morella Aguirre

Style File CND has released the File & Buffer Sampler, an all-in-one file kit containing 12 of its most in demand buffers and files for both natural and enhanced nails. The reusable storage case is ideal for the on-the-go nail tech. Visit www.cnd.com.

For the retail-minded salon, Flowery Beauty Products has released File Catty nail file compacts, travel nail files in protective carry cases.

For in salon use, Flowery’s new D-Files, individually wrapped disposable files, add peace of mind by promoting healthy sanitation. Visit www.floweryprofessional.com.

TREND: pristine natural tips Cuccio NaturalĂŠ Nail Whitening Paste with micro-crystals for cleansing and brightening of natural nail beds.

Seche First Aid Nail Whitening kit for natural nails, featuring the Seche Bright nail whitening treatment. For more info on these products go to www.salon52.ca.

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POWERTIP POWER Looking to score big at the next competition? LCN national education director Cheri Brochu shares 4 tips for success.

1.

NAILS CHERI BROCHU TOP PHOTO BY KIMBERLY BRENNER, CONTESSA 18 DEMO PHOTOS BY LINA TRAN

2.

3.

Keep the free edge thin and with a symmetrical arch.

Enhancement product should be thin around the cuticle; Cuticles should be product-free.

Your enhancement should create a semi C-curve from the sidethin around the cuticle, gradually inclining to the stress point and then declining to the free edge. Under the free edge, the extension should follow your model’s natural nail growth.

4. Ensure the free edge on all nails is consistent in colour, smile line and length. S

WAHL CANADA • 80 ORFUS ROAD • TORONTO, ON M6A 1M1 TEL: (416) 787-4500 • FAX: (416) 787-0551 w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

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> Ne w d is c u s s io n s o n e mp lo ye e - ow n e r

On celebrity obsession, personal creativity and

r e la t io n s , w a g e s a n d t h e h is t o r y

the future of the industry

o f t h e s a lo n

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salon > september 07

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PHOTO COURTESY JOICO, HI:DEF COLLECTION

ON LINE EX C L U S I V E

MORE w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a


PROFILE

Feast or famine

By Kim Hughes

MAKEUP AND NAILS ANDREA CLAIRE WALMSLEY PHOTOS MARIO MIOTTI

Session work offers Andrea Claire Walmsley flexibility for a better home life and a broader spectrum of creativity.

A

f fter just a few minutes of spirited conversation with Andrea Claire Walmsley, you get a powerful hunch as to why she is one of the industry’s most celebrated and in-demand makeup artists and session stylists. Sure, she’s got the platinum-plated credentials and a portfolio to die for—past clients include Revlon, L’Oréal Paris, FACEatelier, Schwarzkopf Professional, Ports International, Fashion Television, Levi’s, Procter & Gamble and Alfred Sung Bridal, to name some. Her editorial work, meanwhile, has appeared everywhere (Weddingbells, Chatelaine, and Hong Kong Marie Claire, anyone?) plus she’s wrangled the looks of stars like Sarah Polley, Sarah Slean and Alanis Morissette.

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PROFILE

“The great thing about session work is that it’s never the same thing twice.” A confirmed trend-spotter, Walmsley also cops to an insatiable hunger for knowledge, gorging on Vogue magazines from around the globe. And she’s versed enough in lighting and lens types to know how looks created on the platform will appear on film. “Key point: back-lighting shows all flyaway strays,” she says. “And lacquering it is not the answer.” Yet despite all that, smart money says what gives Walmsley the edge is her chairside manner. When egos are clashing, budgets are spiking and models are suffering meltdowns, the plain-spoken Walmsley is the voice of reason and a crucial source of humour in the eye of the storm. It’s evident in casual conversation and you just know it’s there on the job, as well. If Walmsley could bottle and sell that, she’d be a richer woman by far. Not that she’s complaining about her lot. Indeed, at this very moment, Walmsley is probably unpacking suitcases and settling into her new digs in Singapore. Singapore? “Yup,” Walmsley laughs brightly, explaining that her new husband of four months (a lawyer with Dell Computers) accepted a three-year relocation to the burgeoning Southeast Asia city, so Walmsley and daughters Sage, 13, and Blaire, 10, are tagging along. Of course, with her reputation, Walmsley won’t be idle for long. “From what I hear, Singapore is the next booming fashion market likely to influence the rest of the world, so I’m very excited and lucky to have this opportunity. “The great thing about session work is that it’s never the same thing twice,” she explains, noting that it was during her tenure at Civello Salon & Spa in the early 90s that the notion of stepping out on her own took root. “It’s not 9-to-5. My daughters are obviously a big priority in my life, and it’s nice to have that flexibility to work varying hours. “Plus, every day I’m collaborating with a different creative team. It’s more creative than a salon. I mean, session work sometimes has limits, too, like lifestyle shoots, but there is a broader spectrum. I love seeing a team effort project in print or film. “The best advice I can give to those hoping to do this kind of work is to really stay on top of the craft. Research it and know it. Notice trends in fashion and hair. I know the Internet makes the world seem flat, but it does seem as though Europeans are ahead of Canadians in terms of trends. “There’s also a great book by Crystal A. Wright called The Hair, Makeup & Styling Career Guide that really covers the industry and has a ton of great information. The other advice is to budget. This work is feast or famine, so you really have to be careful with spending. And that cliché about being nice to people on the way up? Yeah, that’s good advice, too.” Though Walmsley’s daughters will be able to boast of a more exotic upbringing than Mom’s youth in snoozy Kitchener-Waterloo—where an early and abiding fascination with makeup foretold her current career—she admits both kids are enamoured of her craft (Blaire especially). Oh, and that two-season gig Walmsley scored with Canadian Idol (the Kalan and Melissa runs, for those keeping tabs)? That was playground gold. As someone who’s tried every product on the market—and is constantly tapped to test-drive new stuff—Walmsley admits she has considered launching her own product line but insists that’s not any kind of priority. And if push comes to shove, her desertisland must-have? “Elnett Hairspray by L’Oréal Paris, in a distinctive gold can. I don’t think you can even buy it in Canada. I’ve never found it. But that stuff has amazing hold. And you can brush out. Plus,” she laughs, “it has that great old-lady smell.” S

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40 Years in Canada

In celebration of our 85th Anniversary, with over 40 years in Canada, we are passing on special savings on most Takara Belmont Equipment. Contact your local Takara Belmont Distributor before years end, and take advantage of the savings!

Takara Company, Canada, Ltd. 2076 South Sheridan Way Mississauga ON L5J 2M4

1.800.268.5351

tel. 905.822.2755 fax. 905.822.6203

www.takarabelmont.ca



INTERIORS

Harmony & Balance City Looks Salon and Spa

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hen Winnipeg’s Charleswood Centre mall decided to do a major reconstruction, opportunity fell into Catherine Hanson’s lap. “I was given the chance to expand and start the interior from scratch.” An avid enthusiast of feng shui, Hanson made design choices based on creating harmony and balance. Throughout her City Looks Salon and Spa, there is a circular theme in the style of lighting and furniture design. “No hard edges means a better flow of energy,” claims Hanson. “Even the floors have meandering circular designs.” ▼

PHOTOS JENNIFER PRICE

by Colette Wright

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INTERIORS

Name of Salon: City Looks Salon and Spa Address: Charleswood Centre, 11-3900 Grant Avenue, Winnipeg, MB, R3R 3C2 Owners: Catherine and Rick Hanson plus 4 shareholders Opened: October 1996, renovated March 2005 Size: 6,300 sq. ft. | Number of Staff: 45 Breakdown: 14 cutting stations; 6 colour chairs; 8 pedicure thrones; 8 manicure chairs; 6 treatment rooms: 1 wet room; kitchen Interior Designer: Grant Design Group Lighting Design: Robinson Lighting Furniture & Equipment: Belvedere Welonda Retail Hair: Redken Retail Spa: Eminence Organic Skin Care, Zoya Nail Care, Gehwol and Footlogix Phone: 204.896.3177 Hours of Operation: Monday to Friday 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Saturdays 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. Website: www.citylooks.ca

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While the ambience of the salon is vibrant, full of funky lime greens and deep pastel pinks, the spa appears more like a luxurious hotel, with velvet drapery, plush sitting areas and decor touches such as old-fashioned lamps, a gas fireplace and a fish aquarium that used to be part of a dentist’s office. Soft golds, sun-dried-tomato reds and avocado greens enhance the sense of tranquility. And with a built-in ceiling to absorb sound, Hanson says it’s an official quiet zone. In the salon, the high industrial ceiling has been painted white to give the feeling of more space. While Hanson says the warehouse-like touch is trendy, she had her lighting designer create three large circular lights framed in lime green to hang over the retail area. While these diffused lights soften the packaging on products, they attract the eyes of passersby at night when the salon is closed Two rows of eco-friendly lamps hang over the cutting and colour stations from the front of the salon to the back, where the “lather room” (backwash sinks) is located. According to Hanson, clutter is an enemy of feng shui. Shelves have been built into the sides of station mirrors to store products and equipment. In the retail area, a hot spot for generating revenue, frosted glass shelves are mounted to disguise dust. And to keep the floor shiny and clean, the front desk and makeup counter are movable pods. Hanson admits she was particular about the style of furniture she wanted in the spa. “A long boardroom-like table to do natural manicures is perfect for larger groups, and in between the pedicure thrones ceiling-to-floor curtains allow for privacy but can be pushed back for socializing. For gel manicures, a downdraft vent has been built directly into the table to decrease the fumes. And if clients fancy travelling around the world, no need to jet-set. City Looks showcases four treatment rooms designed and decorated to look like India, Japan, Hawaii and France. S

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6

HOT PRODUCTS by Malumir R. Beavis

HOTPICKS 4

2 5

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BENEATH THE SURFACE American International Industries’ Gena Skin Spa is the complete Professional Microdermabrasion System for the face, hands, body and feet. The kit includes a resurfacing tool, microdermabrasion Crystal Crème, foot files, body, hand and facial sponges and a rechargeable adapter. The resurfacing tool has two speeds to accommodate normal and sensitive skin. For info visit www.aiibeauty.com.

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FRESH RESCUE Re-energize dull hair with Paul Mitchell’s Tea Tree Hair and Scalp Treatment. Tea tree oil, peppermint and lavender exfoliate the scalp and invigorate the senses while soy proteins and shea butter replenish moisture. For info visit www. paulmitchell.com.

SCENTURAL Farouk introduces two new fragrances, BioSilk Homme and Femme. Both sensual perfumes contain silk to provide fade-resistant aroma. BioSilk Femme contains refreshing citrus and velvety bottom notes of musk, vanilla, and cedar wood. BioSilk Homme is lush with florals and tantalizing bottom notes of amber, musk and woods. For info visit www.farouk.com.

ART OF VOLUME L’Oréal Professionnel’s tecni.art line boasts three new mousses of various hold factors to pump up fall’s billowing, sexy locks. Aero Volume has a lightweight finish, Full Volume creates extra volume with an increased hold factor, and Full Volume Extra provides an additional boost with firm hold. For info visit www. lorealprofessionnel. com.

HAUTE HYBRID For extreme style with flexibility, try Goldwell’s new Profiler mousse wax. The mousse wax combines the best of both worlds by creating long-lasting, lightweight movement and mouldable texture. The hybrid formula leaves styles gleaming and durable, with no dulling buildup. For more info visit www.goldwell.com.

LEADING LOCKS Create sexy, voluptuous locks with TIGI Bed Head’s new Superstar line. Sulfate-free shampoo, conditioner, volumizing hairspray and leave-in conditioner work together to create dramatic buoyancy and megawatt shine that lasts all day for divaworthy style. For info visit www.tigihaircare.com. S

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PHOTO MICHAEL GRAYDON

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EVENTS

SHOWS International Congress of Esthetics & Spa Long Beach; September 8—10, 2007; Long Beach Convention Center; Long Beach, California Info: www.lneonline.com ABA Regina, September 23—24, 2007; Regina Exhibition Park; Regina, Saskatchewan Info: www.abacanada.com International Esthetics, Cosmetics & Spa Conference Orlando, Sept 29—Oct 1, 2007; Orange County Convention Center; Orlando, Florida Info: www.iecsc.com ABA Calgary, Sept 30—Oct 1, 2007 Calgary Exhibition & Stampede Park; Calgary, Alberta; Info: www.abacanada.com Esthétique Spa International Montréal, Sept 30—Oct 1 Montréal Convention Centre; Montréal, Quebec www.spa-show.com

Premiere Birmingham Sept 30—Oct 1, 2007 Birmingham Jefferson Convention Center Birmingham, Alabama Info: www.premiereshows.com ITA Tanning World Expo October 11—14, 2007 Gaylord Opryland Resort & Convention Center Nashville, Tennessee Info: www.theita.com Salon International October 13—15, 2007 ExCeL Docklands London, England Info: www.salonexhibitions.co.uk Mid-American Beauty Classic 2007, October 14—15 Greater Columbus Convention Center; Columbus, Ohio Info: www. premiereshows.com

���� ��������� ��������� ����������� ������ We want you to join our team for many reasons. Mostly, because to you, it’s not a job. It’s an opportunity to put your passion into practice. To develop your skills and to grow your talent in a professional, friendly and caring environment. Join an exclusive group of hairstylists who started their careers by making the best choice of all - to be a part of the First Choice Haircutters team. To find out more, visit the careers section on www.firstchoice.com

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HAIR CLASSES GOLDWELL PRESENTS: Trilogy, SOS ‘Special Occasion Styling’ and Trend Texture. Courses available in Toronto and Vancouver. For dates and info call 877.670.6767. KMS PRESENTS: Women’s Foundations and Advanced Customized Cutting Workshop. Courses available in Toronto and Vancouver. For dates and info call 877.670.6767. AVEDA PRESENTS: Behind the Scenes, Full Spectrum Systems/ Solutions Reds/Greys/ Blondes, Discover Aveda Hair Care and Vision of Excellence: Frontline Training Introduction. Courses available across Canada. For dates and info call 800.689.1066 ext.7892. CHI PRESENTS: Portfolio Collection, Transformation, Collection Colour/Foil, Texture/ Smooth and Portfolio Collection— Cutting. For dates and info call 800.361.6607. GREAT LENGTHS PRESENTS: On-going educational programs. Info: www.greatlenghts.net L’ORÉAL PRESENTS: All About Highlights, Colour Change, Keys to Colour, Tress It Up and Creative Cut and Colour. For dates and info call 800.361.1861. MATRIX TORONTO ACADEMY PRESENTS: Wheel into Chemistry, Ebony to Ivory, C.R.A.F.T. Cutting, Trend Collection: Passsion, Creative Curls, C.R.A.F.T. Styling, The Fine Art of Colour Design, Stay Sharp and Salon XL. For dates and info call 888.422.6879. REDKEN PRESENTS: Urban Underground September 10—11; Toronto, ON Info: 866.9.REDKEN

SCHWARZKOPF PRESENTS: Fit for Highlighting, Law of Colour, Corrective Colour, Essential Looks, Colour Placement Techniques, Creative Colouring and Master Class. Courses available across Canada. For dates and info call 905.625.7200, or call your local Schwarzkopf distributor. TIGI PRESENTS: Make-up LL/Hands-On and AIT 3-4. Courses available across Canada. For dates and info call 800.361.6607. Urban Beauty Systems Presents: Educational Programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions. Insalon classes also available; Info: 866.731.4327

NAIL CLASSES LCN Presents: On-going educational programs including Level I and II Artificial Nails, Electric File training, Fast French Fills Workshop, Light Cured Nail Art Workshop, Manicure, Level I and II Pedicure and Classic Pedique. Visit www.lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings. North American School of Podology Presents:Level 2 – NASP Infection Control. Courses available across Canada. For dates and info call 416.742.4319. Creative Nail Design Presents: Brisa Master Class. For dates and info call 888.241.3330. Star Nail Presents: Ongoing Educational Programs; For dates and info call 800.661.9997.

ESTHETICS CLASSES LCN Presents: On-going educational programs including Waxing/Tinting, Makeup Artistry, Permanent Makeup and PermaLash/Tinting Workshop. Visit www.lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings. S w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a


all@star

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SEPTEMBER - OCTOBER ’07 SPECIALS

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Permanent French Edging technique together with our Natural Nail Kapping system creates the perfect long-lasting French Manicure

FREE! © 2002 Star Nail - for Permanent French Manicure

Ultimate Lyte’s exclusive uv chemistry creates strong, durable nails that never cloud or yellow—guaranteed, and because Ultimate Lyte is odourless and produces 90% less filing dust than traditional acrylics, you and your clients can enjoy a healthier and safer salon environment.

Permanent French Edging... ••strengthens natural nails • 3 different french looks • lasts up to 3 weeks • no chipping or peeling

Permanent French Edging Kit contains: 1/2 oz. Bright White Edging, 1/2 oz. Light Pink Edging, 1/2 oz. Shimmer Edging, 1/2 oz. UV Gel Seal, Dappen Dish, Edging Brush, Instructions.

Purchase a Natural Nail Kapping Kit for $79.95 and receive a Permanent French Edging Kit FREE (a $24.95 value free!) #865-N-Deal salon: $79.95 (value $104.90)

REQUIRES UV LAMP - NOT INCLUDED. KIT CONTAINS: 2 oz. Ultimate Lyte Monomer, 1/2 oz. White Silica Powder, 1/2 oz. Clear Silica Powder, 1/2 oz. Pink Silica Powder, Ultimate Sculptor Kolinsky Brush, Primer Pen, 20 pk. French Look Ultra White Tips, 25 Rectangular Nail Forms plus Professional Systems Technique tape and instruction booklet.

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© 2007 Star Nail Canada Star Nail is a registered Canadian trademark of 407245 Alberta Ltd.


SCOOP

2 for 2

Joico and Willow Breast Cancer Support Canada are teaming up for October Breast Cancer Awareness Month. Beginning this month and while quantities last, Joico will donate $2 from every purchase of Pink Vanilla Whipped Body Butter to Willow Breast Cancer Support Canada. For more, visit www.joico.com.

Run with Scissors, Canada! Paul Mitchell superstar Robert Cromeans is bringing the Run with Scissors tour to Canada. At the Fallsview Casino Resort in Niagara Falls, Ontario, September 16 and 17, the JPMS team will deliver hands-on training in the latest techniques, trends and business-building. Call 888.325.5788 for tickets.

Sweet Surrender Proving that compassion and style are not mutually exclusive, five-yearold Arianna Verrilli recently donated 11 inches of hair to A Child’s Voice Foundation’s Angel Hair for Kids program. Now sporting a fashionable graduated bob by Salon Verve’s Lenny Ferri, Arianna feels proud of her decision and is loving her new look.

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New Distributor

Green World

Baz Beauty Solutions is the exclusive distributor of L’anza Healing HairCare and Healing HairColor for the Ottawa area and parts of Eastern and Northern Ontario. For more info visit www.lanza.com.

Brian Phillips, owner of Toronto’s World Salon, was recently presented with a Certificate of Recognition from Ontario’s chief energy conservation officer. The certificate was awarded because of Phillips’s outstanding commitment to energy conservation at World Salon since 1998.

A Kids’ Cut On Canada Day weekend, Joseph Bozzo, formerly of Pat and Joseph Hair Design, arranged the Multicultural Cutathon at the CHIN International Picnic to raise money for Sick Kids Hospital. The event was a great success, with volunteers like Mrs. B and her team from Barberino’s Hairstyling School, Frank Tripodi (pictured left) from Phases Hair Studio, Scruples Salon & Spa, Signatures Hair Design and many other beauty pros from across the GTA. The event raised $5000 for Sick Kids. S

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S H O W

P RO G R A M

Keep your competitive edge in the constantly evolving beauty industry. Learn trend-setting techniques and ideas guaranteed to keep you at the forefront of international trends from some of the world’s best educators on these dates:

2007 FALL BEAUTY SHOWS Regina Regina Exhibition Park NEW LOCATION Calgary Calgary Exhibition & Stampede Park Moncton Moncton Coliseum & Agrena

Sept. 23 & 24 Sept. 30 & Oct. 1 Oct. 21 & 22

Give your clients the very best treatment. Attend the Allied Beauty Association Show in your province this f so you can deliver trends and product information fall inf that will keep k your clients on the cutting edge of fashion f and keep k you at the top of your game! Ask your distributor for details or call 1-800-268-6644 for f more inf information or visit our website at www.abacanada.com www

Design: Artisan Design,Windsor, Ontario Hair and Make-up: Mak Heather Wenma W n Photography: Paula Tizzard Model: Rhetta

S H O W S B E A U T Y E D U C A T I O N A L L E A D I N G

Each year y more than 48,000 stylists, aestheticians and nail technicians hnicians head to Canada’s Largest Hair and Aesthetics Show for f two information inf packed days that are guaranteed guar to deliver the latest beauty news and influences worldwide.

C A N A D A ’ S

ALL YOUR PROFESSIONAL NEEDS UNDER THE SAME ROOF HAIR, NAILS & AESTHETICS

FALL 2007

If it’s beautiful, if it’s it’ modern, and if it’s it’ beauty NEWS, you’ll find f it on one of the stages at The 2007 Allied Beauty Association Beauty Shows.

F A L L

DISCOVER THE LA LATEST BEAUTY TRENDS AND MEET THE EXPER WHO EXPERTS CREA THEM CREATE

2 0 0 7

C A N A DA ’ S L A R G E S T H A I R & A E S T H E T I C E X H I B I T I O N & E D U C AT I O N A L E V E N T


P R E S S PA S S

LIVE AT THE PALACE

PHOTOS BABAK

The Goldwell North American guest artists team rocked the Mayan Riviera April 25 to 29, launching the Trend Zoom Reclaim Collection with seamless execution, precision, style and colourful inspiration at the Aventura Palace Spa in Cancun, Mexico. The energetic team of professionals covered all the bases in presenting Industrial Soul and Nomadic Freedom, the two trend worlds of the Reclaim Collection. Also presenting was the team from Rush London, which inspired the crowd with its Switch Collection. About 1,200 hairstylists attended the event, and Canada was well represented by about 100 attendees, including KPSS Canada president Brian Ahrens and several members of his team.

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P R E S S PA S S

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MMVA PARTIES

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The MuchMusic Video Awards took place Sunday, June 17, and hair people were on board to share in the action. The event’s official pre-party was held at Toronto’s Level nightclub. Partiers schmoozed on the club’s rooftop patio while VIP guests got a chance to stroll around an exclusive gift room where they were treated to cool and coveted swag courtesy of companies like Redken and Converse. Once the hardware was given out at MuchMusic headquarters, many award show attendees headed to the Rosewater Supper Club for a glam after-party. Sponsored in part by Joico, the red-carpet event hosted musical celebrities including Sam Roberts, K-OS, Finger Eleven, Billy Talent and Sum 41. The premium swag bag was Joico’s own K-Pak gift bag, which, in addition to other sponsors’ items, contained I.C.E K-Pak products.

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P R E S S PA S S

SKP SUPPORTS THE PARTY On June 21, Rethink Breast Cancer hosted The Party, an outdoor street-festival-style event in support of breast cancer research and awareness. With a laid-back neighbourhood feel, The Party had live music, cool merchandise, plenty of cotton candy, complementary hairdos care of Schwarzkopf Professional and Now Salon, and much more. Hosted in an outdoor courtyard in Toronto’s west end, the event was a huge hit with guests, all in support of a great cause.

CONGRATS HAARTEK Toronto’s Haartek Salon recently marked two decades in business in the trendy Yorkville neighbourhood. The team at Haartek recently celebrated its big birthday with a fabulous anniversary bash.

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A D V E R T O R I A L

$82.00 CAD


P R E S S PA S S

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THE 10TH ANNUAL AMORE SHOW On June 3, the 10th annual Amore Hair & Fashion Show produced by Avola College of Hairstyling & Esthetics rocked out at Revival bar in Little Italy, Toronto. Stylists from Avola College, Salon G & A, Capelli Hairstylists, Michael’s Health and Beauty Spa, Salon Collage, Salon Shampoo, Michael Kluthe Salon, Images Salon & Spa and Venere Salon and Spa presented their own dramatic impressions of this year’s theme, “The Girl Next Door.”

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DAVINES WORLD STYLE CONTEST Part of its World Style Contest—a global competition to find the best feminine image that represents its brand—Italian company Davines and Metro Beauty Supply hosted the Toronto branch of the contest at Rockwood nightclublounge in Toronto on June 24. Ten semifinalists were chosen. These stylists will compete in a photo-based semifinalist round. The finals will take place during the World Wide Hair Tour 2007 in Barcelona, Spain.

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A.I.I. China Glaze pg 59 .....................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.aiibeauty.com A.I.I. GiGi pg 85 ..................................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.aiibeauty.com

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Bain de Terre pg 43 ...........................................800-267-4676

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Belmonda Beauty Academy pg 98 ....................866-647-4100 ........................ www.belmonda.com

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Breckles Insurance pg 100 ...............................888-203-8122 ........................ www.breckles.com Canadian Micro Pigmentation pg 87 ................888-737-6268 ........................ www.cdnmicropigmentation.com

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Chatters Canada pg 69 .....................................888-944-5055 ........................ www.chatters.ca

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Contessa 19 pg 70-71 .......................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca

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A.I.I. Woody’s pg 95 ...........................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.aiibeauty.com ABA pg 92 ......................................................................................................... www.abacanada.com

Contessa Unplugged pg 55 ...............................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca Cosmetics Based on Nature pg 94 ...................877-283-7546 ........................ www.cosmeticsbasedonnature.com Dennis Bernard pg 97 .......................................800-541-5456 ........................ www.DennisBernard.com

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Essie Fall Collection pg 57 ...............................800-232-1155 ........................ www.essie.com

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CND pg 15 .........................................................800-833-NAIL ....................... www.cnd.com

ExtensionLocs pg 102 ...................................................................................... www.extesionlocs.com Farouk CHI pg 29 ..............................................800-237-9175 ........................ www.farouk.com Farouk CHI nails pg 17 .....................................800-237-9175 ........................ www.farouk.com First Choice Haircutters pg 88......................................................................... www.firstchoice.com

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Fudge Paint Box pg 21 ......................................888-383-4387 ........................ www.fudge.com

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Great Lengths pg 40 .........................................800-461-9302 ........................ www.hscinternational.com

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International Beauty Sevices pg 76 ..................800-642-3818

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ISO Option pg 108 .............................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.isohair.ca Joico K-Pak Split End Mender pg 11 ................800-267-4676 ........................ www.joico.com KQC X-Heat Irons pg 102 ................................................................................. www.kqcbeauty.com L’ANZA Art Elements Mix pg 33 ........................800-423-0307 ........................ www.lanza.com L’Oréal Professionnel Color Suprême pg 2-3...800-361-1861 ........................ www.lorealprofessionnel.ca

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La Biosthetique Paris pg 45 .............................800-661-1424 ........................ www.labiosthetique.com

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Lakmé k.therapy repair pg 31 ......................................................................... www.lakme.com

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Lanvain pg 63 ....................................................800-361-2586 ........................ www.lanvain.com LCN Monteil pg 73 ............................................888-422-6677 ........................ www.lcn.ca LKM Beauty International pg 100 .....................877-764-4547 ........................ www.lkmbeauty.com Matrix Logics pg 14...........................................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com Matrix SoColor & Color Sync pg 4-5.................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com Matrix Prizms.Plus pg 39 .................................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com Matrix Shade Memory pg 25 .............................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com Megahair Family Salons pg 101 ...................................................................... www.megahairfamily.com OPI Russian Collection pg 19 ...........................800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com Paul Mitchell pg 23 ...........................................800-793-8790 ........................ www.paulmitchell.com PureOlogy Serious Colour Care pg 9 ................800-331-1502 ........................ www.pureology.com Redken All Soft pg 6-7 ......................................866-9REDKEN....................... www.redken.ca Redken ONEXONE pg 47 ...................................866-9REDKEN....................... www.redken.ca Redken Summit Salon pg 12-13 .......................800-718-5949 ........................ www.summitsalon.com Salon52 pg 78....................................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca SST Signature Series pg 49 ..............................800-667-2566 Star Nail pg 89 ..................................................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com Star Nail Cuccio Naturalé pg 75 .......................877-852-STAR ....................... www.cuccio.com Takara Belmont pg 81.......................................800-268-5351 ........................ www.takarabelmont.ca Torlen pg 90-91 .................................................888.438.9257 ......................... www.visotrading.com Trade Secrets, Glamour Secrets pg 27 ............888-264-7444 ........................ www.tradesecrets.ca Ultra Manicure pg 96 ........................................800-328-3006 ........................ www.dencoultra.com

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Uvalux Tanning Beds pg 107.............................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com

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Wahl Hair Tattoos pg 77 ....................................866-787-9245 ........................ www.wahl.com

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Urban Beauty Systems pg 68 ...........................866-731-4327 ........................ www.urbanbeautysystems.com

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L’ORÉAL PRESENTS A BLONDE EVENING On Wednesday, June 6, L’Oréal Professionnel hosted A Blonde Evening, a two-venue event to relaunch the Majiblond hair colour line. About 150 guests gathered at Toronto’s L’Oréal Academy for a little wine, a little schmoozing and the launch of the new Majiblond line. Attendees then headed to T.O.’s Harbourfront Centre and were treated to a presentation of The Spiegel Show a spicy cabaret show that was part of the Luminato art festival.

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P R E S S PA S S

JOIFUL COLOUR On March 23, the team from Piidea Canada rolled into Vancouver with their colour quest, line delineation seminar educating their distributor representatives from West Coast Beauty, Nova Beauty and Salon Centre Yukon on the Joico and ISO colour lines, Vero K-PAK and i.color. Salon Magazine was invited to join the seminar.

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LA BIOSTHETIQUE IN GERMANY

This spring, La Biosthetique Paris took its Canadian team to its headquarters in Germany for five inspiring days of education. The trip included extensive training on La Biosthetique’s prescriptive hair care products.

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KMS SOUL TOUR As part of its North American lineup, the KMS Soul Tour stopped at Toronto’s Pantages Hotel and Spa on Sunday, June 10. The creative forces behind KMS California were on hand to share the KMS lifestyle and mindset during the intimate evening presentation.

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105


LAST WORD

THAT MAKES SCENTS

I

attended a cocktail party recently. Besides some interesting clothes, I also noticed fragrances wafting around, from both men and women. This got me thinking. No matter how highly we recommend an excellent product to a client, one we really believe in, the client immediately takes off the top and smells it. It doesn’t matter how good the product is, if they don’t like the fragrance—hasta la vista, baby. The love affair with fragrance has developed into a multi-billion-dollar international industry. But fragrance has been popular throughout human history. The Chinese used it 5,500 years ago, and recent archeological excavations in Cyprus revealed an enormous perfume factory that existed in the Bronze Age. Ancient civilizations believed perfume elevated the body to a high degree of purity, making it more godlike. They burned aromatic woods, resins and incense as part of mystic and religious ceremonies. Later they got a bit more down-to-earth and used perfume to make the body more perfect before finally getting down and dirty, using perfume as an important part of decadent orgies. Scent was one of the most treasured possessions of ancient Egyptians. They took at least one scented bath a week, and were the first to anoint their bodies. Curiously, they used cinnamon and honey. They must have smelt like a bakery— although cinnamon does have aphrodisiac qualities. High-ranking Persian men used perfume after bathing. They favoured pheromone stimulants to boost their confidence and attract the ladies. They dressed their beards with civet, from the glands of the catlike Asian animal of the same name, and placed the archetypal musk on other parts of their body, to put it delicately. The ancient Greeks loved perfume. Perfume shops were regular meeting places for citizens before their daily bath. The Greeks mixed heavy oils with powdered fragrances and invented the first liquid perfumes. These heavy liquid fragrances were the only consumer choice for a long time. Enter the medieval Iranian genius Avicenna, who wrote no fewer than 99 books and also found the

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time to revolutionize the scent trade. He used steam distillation to extract the essential oils from roses. Rosewater took off, and is still highly valued today for its lovely scent and light astringent properties. The upper-class Romans also loved fragrance, to the extreme. Not content with taking scented baths three times a day, they also perfumed their dogs and horses. And it didn’t end there. They released perfume-covered birds to spread scents during special festivities. Makes modern-day air fresheners seem really boring in comparison. Later on in Western Europe, alas, for centuries the well-to-do used perfume to mask the fact that they didn’t bathe. Perfume sellers were first recorded in Paris in 1190. Despite contributions from Hungary and Italy, France reigned supreme as Europe’s centre of perfume manufacture. The Brits didn’t really catch on until the 16th century. During the reign of Queen Elizabeth I, who could not tolerate bad smells, all public places she visited had to be scented. We owe the enterprising Corsican-born François Coty a debt of gratitude for stylish packaging. In Paris in the early 1900s, Coty presented his perfume in crystal bottles made by French art deco jeweller and glassmaker René Lalique. Still, things didn’t go well for Coty until one day, the story goes, a bottle of his perfume fell on the floor and broke. Such was the intoxicating smell of the rose perfume that 500 bottles flew out of the store in a matter of days. Coty had a philosophy: “Give a woman the best product you can compound, present it in a perfect container (beautifully simple, but of impeccable taste), charge a reasonable price for it and a great business will arise such as the world has never seen.” Since he became one of the wealthiest men in France, I’d say it’s a policy worth emulating. S John Steinberg is the owner of Toronto’s John Steinberg & Associates. He’s currently celebrating 47 years in the beauty business and continues to be one of Canada’s premier style makers. Check out: www.johnsteinberghair.com www. .

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PHOTO BARRIE WENTZELL

by John Steinberg


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