Salon Magazine, September 2008

l salon magazine

the business of beauty and style

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

two visions of

africa

from edwin johnston & damien carney

plus 2008

fall trend report

september 08 $5 www.salon52.ca

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Discover Re:nual Serum The Secret to Aging Graylessly This revolutionary anti-aging breakthrough from Shiseido Laboratories has been proven to reduce the growth of new gray hair by up to 50%.*

*Over a 5-month period, according to Shiseido user surveys.

PROVEN RESULTS

BEFORE

Hair Care for Ageless Beauty renuagedefy.com

AFTER 32 Weeks

AvedA Soil to Bottle™ ingredient Sourcing:

orgAnic BrAziliAn BABASSu ORIGINS: The story of the babassu nut lies in the fertile lands of Maranhão in Northeastern Brazil. It is also held in the unbreakable spirit of the quebradeiras de coco or, “nut-breakers”—the women who, together with their communities, harvest and process babassu nut oil, a rich and versatile ingredient used for cooking oil and cleansing.

P r o d u c t: Smooth Infusion Shampoo and Conditioner BeneFitS: When used together, Smooth Infusion Shampoo and Conditioner smooth and soften hair up to 60 per cent.

BraZil

Aveda’s babassu-derived cleansing system, made with certified organic babassu oil and a guar bean-derived conditioner, softens hair while reducing frizz and unwanted wave.

Tamanu oil restores hair’s moisture balance, while Aveda’s unique Plant Infusion—a blend derived from organic aloe, maize and guar bean—creates a smooth surface on each strand of hair. Finally, Aveda’s hydrolyzed wheat protein complex forms a protective barrier on the cuticle to help shield hair from surface damage.

aveda SOil tO BOttle™ ingredient SOurcing Organic argan: From Morocco

Organic SandalwOOd:

Organic rOSe geraniuM:

Organic rOSe:

From australia

From South africa

From Bulgaria

Celebrating 30 Year s of Aveda Supporting Organic Agriculture & Community Farms

I N G R E D I E N T: Organic babassu SPain

BULgaria

BENEFITS: Maranhão‘s traditional communities of babassu women are among the thousands of individuals whose livelihoods depend on babassu nut oil production. Tragically, their way of life was brutally threatened in the 1970s, when ranchers and gunmen stripped away their rights to gather babassu nuts and burnt vast sections of forest for cattle ranching. However, they could not silence the babassu women. Creating a grassroots collective in protest, the women defended their land and culture by blocking armed gunmen and loggers from their homes.

Joining with environmental groups, the women successfully lobbied for local and federal laws prohibiting the clear-cutting of palm forests. Today, the Free Nut Law protects their right to access and harvest babassu nuts.

Awed by their integrity and craft, Aveda partnered with the babassu women in 1993.

Since then, Aveda has helped finance a babassu processing facility, a soap-making facility, and a paper press. With Aveda’s support, the babassu women have also created a living pharmacy project to produce local plant-based medicines curing 90 per cent of the diseases in their communities.

With Aveda’s guidance, babassu women can now market certified organic babassu nuts, which brings an added financial benefit to the nutbreakers while it also furthers Aveda’s mission to source certified organic ingredients.

Today, as the value of babassu oil soars, Maranhão communities receive fair revenue for their hard work.

MOrOccO

SOUTH aFrica

Organic Lavender:

Organic ciSTUS :

Organic UrUKUM:

From Bulgaria

From Spain

From Brazil

Watch the Story of Brazilian Babassu at www.salon52.ca

aUSTraL

l salon magazine

Contents SePTeMBer 08 w w w. s a lon 5 2 . ca

ON THE COVER Hair: Edwin Johnston The Cutting Room Nanaimo, B.C. Canadian Artistic Director for KMS California Makeup: Raquel Atienza Photography: Babak Technique: Model's own hair was brushed forward with a Mason Pearson brush.

Bobby pins were placed in a halo pattern from ear to ear and used to anchor a hair piece pinned on top. Oster clippers shaped the desired look. Hair was styled with KMS California Dry Wax and finished with KMS California Max Hold Spray.

ONTHE COVER 47

2008 fall Trend rePorT

53

TWo VISIonS of afrIca

Feature This season’s latest in hair, fashion, nails and makeup

Feature Damien carney and Edwin Johnston’s afro-inspired collections

fEaTuREs 62

red alerT

64

HauTe coIffure

68

BoHeMIan rHaPSody

62 red alert

Matrix makes wind-swept look sleek

l’oréal Professionnel introduces Texture Expert

la Biosthetique strays from cultural conformity

> CONteNtS CONtINue ON PaGe 14

47

treNd rePOrt

68 BOHeMIaN rHaPSOdY

10

salon > september 08

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I am the fastest growing segment of the population. My hair is my main beauty asset.

So I‘m getting older, it doesn‘t mean

that I want it to show. I think with the experience of a mature woman, but I want my hair to feel and look as good as it did 20 years ago.

I‘ve got the money, keep me looking beautiful.

I am YOUR client.

“I travel more than any other demographic and I am wearing IGORA Royal Absolutes 5-50.”

“I am part of a generation that controls 77% of Canadian wealth and I am wearing IGORA Royal Absolutes 4-60 and 5-60.”

Together. A passion for hair

“Nearly 1 of 3 Canadians has celebrated their 50th birthday, and I am one of them.

I am wearing IGORA Royal Absolutes 7-70.”

The NEEDS of mature hair, 100% COVERED. IGORA Royal Absolutes & BC Time Restore.

ABSOLUTE must.

• • • • •

100% color intensity with radiant results.

100% coverage without having to mix with a natural shade.* NEW! BIOTIN-S anti-age technology to improve hair structure.

15 fashion shades in gold, red, copper, brown and violet.

BC Time Restore care range for at home maintenance.

*INNOVATION by Schwarzkopf Professional, since 2002.

Log on to: www.zoomermag.com to see as 3 clients ‚ share the color of their lives with their stylist.

www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca

l salon magazine

regulars

14

16

Editor’s LEttEr

18

PubLishEr’s NotE

20

hairLiNEs La Biosthetique introduces new line for long hair p.20; Matrix re-launches Sleek.Look p.22; Salon International interview series p.22; Rihanna’s reinvented pixie cut p.23; Sexy Hair reaches a milestone p.23; The latest salon tools p.24; ABA hosts makeover challenge p.24; Redken launches Real Control p.26; Nick Arrojo designs for Belvedere USA p.26; Farouk introduces CHI Olive Nutrient Therapy p.28; Global Business Awards round-up p.28; Pink products for Breast Cancer Awareness month p.30; Lakmé’s new K.style line p.32; The cost of mannequin heads p.32

36

coLour Artego colours with an environmental twist; Schwarzkopf

38

mEN

40

coNtEssa GaLLErY Olivier Miotto speaks about Glam Salon

44

scENE The reinvention of Sebastian Professional

52

saLoN52 September lineup

72

NaiLs Star Nail introduces its first eco-conscious line;

74

EsthEtics

75

taNNiNG Why things are looking up

76

ProfiLE Tony Masciangelo

79 82

iNtEriors Michael Kluthe Salon

86

EVENts

88 89 98

scooP

re-launches enhanced-formula Igora Royal Absolutes The top five cosmetic surgeries for men

Boutique’s Contessa 19 collection

40

CONTESSA GALLERY

79 iNTERiORS

More eco-friendly goods Targeted skin treatments an natural exfoliators for the spa

hot Products

PrEss Pass

82

76 PROFiLE

HOT PRODUCTS

Last word by John Steinberg

salon > september 08

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DAMAG E-FR E E TEXTU R E

NOW UP TO

80% LESS ODOR SAME BEST OPTION FOR FABULOUS WAVES!

NEW! LOOK AND FRAGRANCE

8TH CONSECUTIVE WIN! BEHINDTHECHAIR.COM

explore your options www.isohair.com ©2008 Innovative Styling Options Inc., Division of Piidea Canada Ltd., Pointe Claire, QC H9R 5N3

EDITOR’S lETTER

A

Finding Balance

PHOTO BABAK

s I write this letter I am about to run out the door for a 10-day getaway. And I need it. These days we all work much harder than we ever thought we would. For us in the magazine business, computers were supposed to make our lives easier, and in many ways they have. But in other ways they have made us more accessible to our work than ever before. But part of that is okay, too, because I can take my computer along on this trip and get some work done while still being able to get away from the office. I am trying to find a balance between work and play.

Along the vein of balance, your clients come to you for advice regularly on finding the right balance of how to wear their hair, makeup, nails, etc. for their lifestyle. This month, Salon Magazine’s managing editor, Morella Aguirre, helps you sort out the season’s trends in these areas according to what she saw on the fashion runways for fall/winter 2008. See her seasonal trend report on page 47. Along with September come many of the new fall launches from professional beauty manufacturers. These represent the latest technological advancements in beauty products for your clients. Be sure to check out the newest from L’Oréal Professionnel, La Biosthetique, Lakme, Matrix, OPI, CND, Redken, RVB, Schwarzkopf, Star Nail, Sebastian and SST Cosmetics Inc., to name a few.

We are now in the throes of the judging process for the 20th Annual Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards—the Contessas. And along with that goes the planning for the show this year. With the big anniversary milestone, we are trying to balance the celebration of the past 20 years with this year’s winners and of course the future, as Contessa moves from being a teenager to a mature woman of 20. Again this year, we will be hosting the 2nd Annual Contessa Unplugged session to round out the weekend. We have Vivienne Mackinder, Edwin Johnston and Damien Carney on the slate for a discussion on the creative process—not to be missed. Contessa Unplugged takes place on Monday, November 3.

To be sure you take advantage of everything that the Contessas offer, you can book your tickets starting from September 15. Call Candice at 416.869.3131, ext 108 to reserve your place.

Having said all that, don’t forget to take time for yourself. Here’s to finding your balance.

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salon > september 08

Stephen Puddister Editor-in-Chief

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 17 issue 11

www. s a lo n 5 2 . ca

Editor-in-chiEf

Stephen Puddister > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | stephen@beautynet.com group Art dirEctor

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com MAnAging Editor

Morella Aguirre > 416.869.3131 ext.105 | morella@beautynet.com AssociAtE Art dirEctor

Guillermo Ohno > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | guillermo@beautynet.com

Laura Dunphy Publisher salon > september 08

EditoriAl AssistAnt

Anupa Mistry > 416.869.3131 ext.112 | anupa@beautynet.com copy Editor

Fran Schechter sEnior stAff writEr

Pam Fulford

hat a whirlwind summer for business travel! Amazingly, unlike what most would assume, things don’t really quiet down in the industry during the hot summer months. There’s always a beehive of activity as everyone prepares to deliver the best products for the big fall season to salons.

It’s a part of our industry that beauty pros often don’t see—the trade and commerce side and nitty-gritty inner workings. In fact, it’s my fascination with these behind-the-scenes elements that lured me away from behind the chair years ago. I wanted to learn about the business of beauty.

My curiosity continues even today. Like clockwork every July I make my annual pilgrimage to Cosmoprof in Las Vegas, one of North America’s largest industry trade shows. It’s at this massive gathering where new products are revealed, hands are shaken and deals are made. Companies from all over the world participate, allowing our own Canadian distributors to hit the show floor and have access to products from all corners of the world. These are the products that your sales consultant will be bringing into your salons over the next year.

As media, our team and I also meet with manufacturers and learn about their latest innovations. This year, one of my favourite get-togethers was with Jan Arnold, founder of CND. Continuing to inspire and motivate even us media types, meeting with Jan is so much fun, as she never fails to share tales of her travels to markets like Russia and give the inside scoop on CND’s work at the top fashion shows in Paris and New York.

Another summer event is the Allied Beauty Association’s Annual General Meeting, where ABA members come together to discuss business issues related to our industry. Many beauty pros think of the ABA as the organization that puts on some of Canada’s biggest hair shows. However, the organization does so much more. It actively deals with governmental issues like package labelling, ingredients and diversion. Basically, it’s our industry’s representative for government-related issues.

Also, back in June, I attended the Global Salon Business Awards. What a stellar event, gathering salons from all over the world, not only to receive awards, but to network and attend a business seminar hosted by the B.E.S.T Foundation at UCLA’s Anderson School of Management. Canadians continue to show well, too. A big congratulations to Chatters, Picaso Studios, CaVaBien and Zennkai—all winners at this year’s awards.

18

Tina Christopoulos > 514.341.0621 | tina@beautynet.com

contributors

Kim Hughes, Kerry Freek, Chris Tsintziras, Colette Wright publishEr/prEsidEnt

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com sEnior Accounts MAnAgEr

Samantha Anobile > 416.869.3131 ext. 109 | samantha@beautynet.com production MAnAgEr

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com AssistAnt to thE publishEr

Cindy Mahabir > 416.869.3131 ext. 119 | cindy@beautynet.com Account rEprEsEntAtivE

Brandon Stout > 416.869.3131 ext.220 | brandon@beautynet.com

circulAtion MAnAgEr

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca

AccountAnt

Galina Andrianova > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | galina@beautynet.com chAirMAn

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com vicE-prEsidEnt & wEst coAst Editor

Greg Robins > 604.929.1700 | greg@beautynet.com

subscription rAtEs for cAnAdA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 GSt included 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 GSt included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location for us 1 year (8 issues) $50USD AddrE ss ch A n gE s Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca

Fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

Phone: 905.729.1288

Po Box 357, Beeton oN, l0G 1a0 Canada sA l on MAg AZ in E

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W

SuMMER DAyS

Editor-in-chiEf (frEnch)

641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada ltd.)

return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, Po Box 357, Beeton oN l0G 1a0 Canada

national Magazine Awards Gold

Silver

Top Five

2008 2003 2002 1998 1995

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Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

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From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

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OPI FALL/WINTER 2008 COLOR CHART

CONTAINS NO DBP, TOLUENE, OR FORMALDEHYDE

EDITION G (OPI ITEM NO. DC F09)

EDITION C (OPI ITEM NO. DC F04)

EDITION A+ (OPI ITEM NO. DC F02) Nail Lacquers shown, top to bottom:

Louvre Me Louvre Me Not, Parlez-vous OPI?, You Don't Know Jacques!, Tickle My France-y, Bastille My Heart, I'm Fondue of You, A Oui Bit of Red, We'll Always Have Paris, Eiffel for This Color, Baguette Me Not*, Crêpes Suzi-ette*, Yes…I Can-Can!* *Suzi’s Picks, also available in coordinating Lip Colour and Lip Liner Nail Lacquers feature OPI’s exclusive ProWide™ Brush.

If color chart has been removed, contact your Authorized OPI Distributor to receive yours.

Call 800.341.9999 or visit www.opi.com © 2008 OPI Products Inc.

hairlines

Longer, Stronger, Faster Get hair growing up to 32 per cent faster with la Biosthetique’s new line for long hair

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salon > september 08

A

great percentage of your female clients will always want a luxurious head of long healthy-looking locks. These are the ladies who are so committed to lengthy manes that they come in religiously every couple of months asking for nothing but a trim.

La Biosthetique is catering to this client group with the launch of Cheveux Longs, a line of products and treatments for long hairstyles.

Taking 18 months to develop, the Cheveux Longs line features a lotion called Ergines Actives that accelerates hair growth. A leavein energy treatment for the scalp, it contains active ingredients to stimulate cell activity for faster growth of hair.

“In independent external testing, the cell division rate increased by 98.3 per cent in comparison to a placebo solution,” says Philip Jung, marketing and business development manager for La Biosthetique.

“The growth of the hair length increased by up to 32 per cent.”

The line has a Vital Crème Shampoo for delicate hair in need of care and a Volume Crème Shampoo for fine or lifeless hair to strengthen and protect against environmental damage. There is an Instant Detangler serum for smoothing and restructuring and a fast conditioning Volume Care Hair Treatment for light body and vitality. Rounding out the line are two Intensive Care Conditioners to aid in moisture retention. To finish, the line has a Care Styling Lotion for more body and resilience. For more on this line go to www.labiosthetique.de and www.salon52.ca.—SP

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UPCOMING GREAT LENGTHS® EDUCATION SEMINARS TORONTO September 21-22 October 26-27 November 16-17 December 7-8 HALIFAX September 14-15 VANCOUVER October 26-27 QUEBEC November 9-10 *In-house seminars available by special arrangement. Learn more about joining the Great Lengths® Certified Salon Network today by calling Great Lengths Canada at 1-800-461-9302 or write to us at info@greatlengthscanada.com.

First in Hair Technology and Innovation What makes a salon professional want to become a Great Lengths® hair extension artist?

Why are Great Lengths® artists beaming with pride?

What drives their passion? What fuels their loyalty?

First and foremost, it is and always has been “The quality of the hair”.

Call 800.461.9302 or visit greatlengthscanada.com for certification opportunities nearest you

hairlines

S

Super Sleek

Matrix re-launches Sleek.Look with new formulation

leek.Look has long been a long-time salon favourite for hairstylists and clients wanting to achieve that supersmooth, straight look. In fact, the line’s heat damage protector, Iron Smoother, is one the biggest sellers in the Matrix brand.

So in an effort to keep its position as a leading brand with consumers, Matrix has reformulated and expanded the Sleek.Look line. Hitting salons this month and formulated with the trade-marked 24 Smooth Multi-Mend Technology, the bigger and better Sleek.Look series includes ingredients like ceramide, apricot oil and shea butter.

“This time around, the Sleek.

Look line has a new star product, the Miracle Reconstructor, a once-a-week

repairing and protective treatment,” says Nancy Picard, education coordinator for Matrix Canada. “It has an extra boost of vital ingredients to go deep within hair, repair and seal split ends.

Also new to the line is the Blow Down Lite Lotion for fine to normal hair and the Blow Down Extreme Lotion for coarse or thick hair— products that decrease blow-drying time and increase protection from high-heat appliances.

Sleek.Look also includes a shampoo for all hair types and two types of conditioners, one for fine hair and one for coarse hair. The line is still rounded out with the Iron Smoother and the Sealing Serum, which have a new look and packaging.—SP

London CaLLs Salon52.ca features the “My Salon International” interview series Going to Salon International is like going to hair theatre at its best.

To give you a little more insight into this world-class show, www.salon52.ca is running a series of interviews called My Salon International, where top names in the beauty biz like Antoinette Beenders, Tim Hartley, Patrick Cameron and Sacha MascoloTarbuck discuss their experience at the London-based event.

This year’s show is from October 18 to 20. Both Hartley and Cameron will be among the elite roster of live presenters. For more information on tickets, check out the Salon International website at www.salonexhibitions.co.uk.—SP

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salon > september 08

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Rihanna re-invents

r

ihanna has transformed from pop princess to sexy starlet with a recent string of short-to-shorter crops. This summer, while promoting her re-released record Good Girl Gone Bad: Reloaded, the 20-year-old singer skipped the extensions and brought along a coterie of cuts, starting with the angled bob to her latest, a semiandrogynous crop cut. Along with an edgy sense of style, her jet-black hair—super-short in back with long, piecey bangs in front—has cemented the Barbadian beauty as a bona fide style icon.–AM

Rihanna keystone pRess agency

Big Red Deal Sexy Hair, the California company that recently recruited pop group Girlicious as its 2008-2009 ambassador, is celebrating an accomplishment: 10 million “big red cans” of Big Sexy Hair Spray & Play hair spray sold!—AM

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september 08 < salon

23

hairlines

tool time Name Wahl Skull & Crossbones Hair Dryer

Features: 1,750 watts with 6 heat settings, 2 speed settings and a patented anti-burning concentrator nozzle • Advanced, built-in tourmaline technology minimizes drying time and reduces static • Low noise professional AC motor (long life - 1,500 hours) • Cold shot provides cold airflow instantly • Light-weight • Ergonomic handle and 3 metre professional cord • Removable metal filter

website www.wahlpro.com

Name Raincry Brush Collection

1

website www.raincry.com

raincry nature series includes the natural Boar Bristle Brush Features: • Contains 100 per cent root boar bristles—the strongest and best quality portion of the bristle • Reduces hair breakage

1

2

Raincry Ceramic Smoothing series Includes the Ceramic Smoothing Brush Features: • Combines the function of a straightening iron and brush • Ceramic Heat Dispersion Technology allows brush to hold and distribute heat longer • Reduces blow drying time by half • 100 per cent boar bristles help reduce breakage and split ends • Eliminates frizz; adds volume

2 3 3

Raincry Care Series Includes the Detangling Paddle Brush Features: • Designed to care for scalp and hair • Gently removes tangles without breaking hair • Massages and exfoliates scalp • Metal-bristle model can be used on wet or dry hair and is ideal for coarse hair • Also available with natural boar bristles

Camera Ready

Chrissie Rejman, Candy Signorini, Makeup Artist, Model, Van Hong (Contestant), Randy Chan (Vp BC Division ABA), at the Vancouver competition.

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salon > september 08

Calgary ABA hosts makeover challenge The Allied Beauty Association is set to present Calgary’s 2nd Annual ABA “Ordinary to Extraordinary” Makeover Competition.

With only 25 entries accepted, this live contest is open to all licensed Canadian hairstylists over the age of 18.

The winner will have a chance to do a live makeover on Citytv’s CityLine in Toronto. He or she will also receive $500 from the ABA, return airfare from Calgary to Toronto and hotel accommodations.

The competition takes place on Sunday, October 5, 2008, with Salon Magazine’s Stephen Puddister as the event’s emcee. Judges for the competition will be Citytv's CityLine’s producer/director team of Chrissie Rejman and Candy Signorini.

For full details go to www.abacanada.com or call: 800.268.6644. Go ahead, take the plunge, break out of the box!—MA

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WE BELIEVE IN NATURE

Nature is inspiring, creative and sexy with a style all her own.

Part artist, part innovator, nature has already given us everything we could ever need to take care of ourselves. For over 10 years weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been sharing natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wisdom by creating products that respect the health of our environment and the people using them. yours truly, eufora 800-6-eufora | www.eufora.net

hairlines

Reality Check Redken launches line to deal with highmaintenance hair

y

ou all have clients with difficult, unruly, highmaintenance hair. in fact, they represent about 18 per cent of North american women, according to redken’s research.

For this particular group of clients, redken has created a new line of products called real Control, available to salons this month.

“We don’t realize how many clients we have today who fit within this line of care,” says terry ritcey, director of education for redken Canada. “as everyone knows, Canada is a melting pot of ethnicities, and many have hair that we would classify as highmaintenance. it could be extremely thick, coarse, unruly or hard to manage,” he says. then, “with chemical services like colouring and perms and mechanical services like blow-drying and flat ironing, they wreak havoc on their hair,” says

ritcey. “that’s the client base this line is designed to help.” real Control is a full range of six texture-transforming products, with more to come in the future. Currently there is a shampoo and conditioner that provide nourishment, smooth and repair, while gently cleansing and conditioning the hair. they help with detangling even the coarsest hair, leaving it soft, strong and shiny.

For more on this line, go to www.salon52.ca.—sp

Designer guy When 80-year-old salon furniture pioneer, Belvedere usa, decided to design its next styling chair, it turned to hairstyling star Nick arrojo.

Designed by arrojo and manufactured by Belvedere, the simple yet elegant chair embodies comfort, style and functionality. “i wanted the design to be simple, because simple design is timeless design, and that’s how our salon is designed, too—simple, modern, elegant,” says arrojo. he adds: “Belvedere has great heritage in the industry, is synonymous with quality hairdressing products and has been an innovative business leader for many years. i knew i was partnering with a top-notch company, and i’m delighted that we worked together on this fantastic new chair.” go to www.belvedere.com for more.—Kerry Freek

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salon > september 08

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top photo jupiterimages

Nick Arrojo designs new styling chair with Belvedere USA

hairlines

G

Organics Plus Technology Farouk introduces their CHI Olive Nutrient Therapy

o green,” says Danielle Couture. The regional sales manager for Farouk Systems Group and CHI, Couture sums up the company’s philosophy in general and their newest product in particular. “The CHI Organics Olive Nutrient Therapy line combines olive ingredients, vitamins, herbs and essential oils that are beneficial to the hair and non-destructive to the environment.”

The new line balances ancient health and beauty treatments— in use for over 5,000 years—with the newest advances in technology. “Farouk has long been aware of the benefits of olives,” says Couture. “Olive oil restores the moisture to both dry hair and skin.” This provides conditioning and protection from intense heat, plus it has antioxidant and antibacterial properties that are vital to the hair and skin.

In addition to olive oil, Olive Nutrient Therapy is enhanced by 12 key organic nutrients such as basil, chamomile, geranium, peppermint. These organic ingredients, grown without herbicides, add a natural and pure appeal to this line. Lemongrass oil adds the benefit of aromatherapy to each product.

“This line is perfect for salons,” adds Couture. “Not only is it a plus for the clients because of the natural, organic quality of the products and how it treats their hair, but it benefits the stylists. It creates a healthier ammonia-free environment, which is what Farouk is aiming for.”

Paraben- and sulfate-free, the range of products includes Olive Nutrient Shampoo, Olive Nutrient Conditioner, Olive Nutrient Treatment Paste, Olive Silk Oil, Olive Nutrient Glaze and Olive Nutrient Spritz.

“It’s time for manufacturers of beauty products to take responsibility for their planet,” stated Couture. “If we’re going to save the earth, we have to act on every level. And that includes both inside the salon—for our clients and stylists--and outside in the environment. That is the goal for Farouk.”—PF

............................. Congratulations To Canada’s Big Winners!....................................

Salon Entrepreneur of the Year, Multi-unit: Chatters Salon

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Salon Entrepreneur of the Year, Single unit: Zennkai Salons

Client Philosophy /Marketing & Promotion: Picaso Studios Inc.

Salon Leadership: CaVaBien Hair Studio & Day Spa Ltd.

Salon Stars Shine

Oscar-Style 2008 GSBAs Go Down In Hollywood

Hollywood was the setting from June 7 to 9, as the 2008 Global Salon Business Awards honoured salon owners from 22 countries.

The awards gala, hosted by Leeza Gibbons, celebrated star salon owners excelling in leadership, financial stability, client philosophy, employee satisfaction and marketing and promotion.

The Global Salon Business Awards are produced by The B.E.S.T. (Business Education for Salons Today) Foundation, a non-profit organization whose mission is to support the continued development of the global salon industry through advancement, recognition and growth.—SP

salon > september 08

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another quality product from

©2008 HairArt. All Rights Reserved.

THE NEW ESSENTIALS INTRODUCING THE H3000 COLLECTION BY HAIRART™ One of HairArt’s top professional irons has inspired a new line of salon essentials. The H3000 Collection launches with the silicon plated Deluxe Iron designed to style, straighten, smooth, and add shine. A variety of must have tools will soon be available to complete your new favorite collection. The possibilities are endless and beautiful.

www.hairartproducts.com Ten percent of net proceeds will benefit the

H3000 COLLECTION

Deluxe Iron

|

Wet & Dry Iron

|

Mini Iron

|

Hair Dryer

|

Diffuser

|

Brushes

hairlines

Pink Power Breast cancer month promos Pink Partners

For a full year, FHI Heat plans to donate $1 from each sale of pink-hued styling tools to Pink-Link, a grassroots non-profit organization providing online support to breast cancer survivors. For more, visit www.fhiheat.com and www.pink-link.org.

Heart Felt

For a second year, OPI is releasing its Pink of Hearts lacquer to support breast cancer awareness. In Canada, OPI will donate $5,000 to Rethink Breast Cancer. For info, check out www.opi.com and www.rethinkbreastcancer.com.

Awesome Blossom

With the sale of each Schwarzkopf SEAH Blossom Spritz Conditioning Spray, SKP will donate $2 to Rethink Breast Cancer.

Go to www.schwarzkopfprofessional.ca and www. rethinkbreastcancer.com.

Helping Hand

Throughout October, $4 from the sale of each limited-edition Aveda Hand Relief cream will be donated to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation.

Visit www.aveda.com and www.bcrfcure.org.

Iron Maiden

With proceeds from the sale of its limitededition pink CHI iron—a gift with purchase promo that includes a pink carry bag—CHI will donate $10,000 to Willow Breast Cancer Support Canada. Go to www.farouk. com and www.willow.org.

Art en Rose

A portion of proceeds from HairArt’s new H3000 Deluxe Flat Iron will be donated to the National Breast Cancer Foundation. To learn more, go to www.hairartproducts.com and www.nationalbreastcancer.org.—MA For more breast cancer awareness products go to www.salon52.ca

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Your Best Choice 1.800.557.3223 BC AB SK MB

LCN.ca

1.888.859.3434 CENTRAL & EAST

hairlines

Heads Up As the price of hair rises, so does the price of mannequin heads

Style Ikon

Lakmé Cosmetics introduces K.style For Spanish hair care company Lakmé, not having a comprehensive finishing line to complement its hair spa, scalp therapy and colour products felt a little like unfinished business. Today, the brand is rounding out its portfolio with the introduction of K.style, a full range of styling and finishing products.

In keeping with the Lakmé’s ideology of high-quality, nutritive hair care, K.style promises to maintain and protect hair’s integrity with gentle and therapeutic formulations. The key ingredient in the line is a grape seed antioxidant complex, a defensive compound combining grape seed extracts and vitamin E. Lakmé’s High Affinity System allows active ingredients to penetrate deep into hair fibre, working in conjunction with antioxidants to protect hair from environmental and heat damage.

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Though the line has all these restorative traits, K.style is all about creating long-lasting, Barcelonaclubland-inspired hair. It promises tamed curls, marathon textures and effects, gravity-defying volume and a sense of control in even the most humid of climates. In other words, K.style is for those demanding total control and high-style looks, but with a good dose of damage control.

K.style consists of five series: Fix Plus, a range of three extreme-hold stylers; Smooth & Shine, four polishing and finishing agents; Style Control, a sixproduct mid-range hold series; Thick & Volume, consisting of a volume boosting lotion and mousse; and the Hottest line, an eight-product sub-line containing a full range of stylers and offering both matte and glossy finishes.—MA

M

annequin heads, one of the most useful tools for training hairstyling students, are becoming an additional cost to beauty schools. And according to most experts, it’s all about the hair.

“Mannequin heads use real hair from India and China,” says Stephen Chung, president of the distributor NP Group.

“In the past, young women in these countries sold their hair to earn money because they had few other sources of income.

However, economics are shifting, and different opportunities for work are now available to these women. Growing and selling their hair is not their first option.”

Dino Cairo, from the distributor Pivot Point Canada, agrees.

“The problem is definitely about the human hair used—it is an actual commodity in certain countries. The matter is one of supply and demand. The supply is decreasing while the demand is increasing.” He points to the explosion in the hair extension business, which has created a huge demand for human hair that never existed before.

Not only has the demand increased, but the supply diminished. “Women in these countries want to look attractive,” says Chung. “They are interested in hair and makeup and want to look fashionable. They no longer want to grow their hair for years and sell it.” There are alternatives to working with human hair. According to Cairo, one option is a 30 per cent bio-fibre mix with 70 per cent human hair. “Unfortunately working with human hair provides the best results for students,” he adds.

“Schools are now having to sit back and re-evaluate their curriculum, how to do more cuts on one mannequin and work in mock applications.”

What are the solutions? “There is no way to predict what the future holds,” says Cairo. “The distributors and schools are not the only ones affected. The manufacturers of these mannequin heads right now are shouldering a significant part of the cost increase.”—PF

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colour

Art meets ego

A

Artego colours with an environmental twist

rtego, an Italian-made colour line, has been in the Canadian market for about two years. “The name represents a balance between the colourist, his or her artistic skills and the environmentally friendly technology used in the line,” says Lynn Zuzek, artistic director for Artego Canada.

“The Artego It’s Color system is formulated with 30 per cent less ammonia than most colour lines,” adds Zuzek. “This translates to less irritation for clients and colourists alike— and it’s better for the environment.”

Containing 104 permanent and 57 demipermanent shades, the line has many colours formulated for brunettes, since dark hair is prevalent in the line’s home country. It includes a violet black, which allows stylists to colour at a level one black with a glowing sheen. It also boasts a bronze series—a copper-blue-based range that neutralizes orange tones in brown pigment and creates beautiful bronze tones on hair.

All of the developers are infused with milk

proteins, calendula for soothing the skin and Scots pine, which is used in homeopathic remedies for asthmatics. Artego’s colour tubes come in large, more eco-conscious 5.1 oz. packages (instead of the typical 1.5 to 3 oz tubes). Lightener comes in a refillable, onetime-purchase 2.2 lb tin container. Bags of lightener refills can be purchased to replenish the tin.

Zuzek, who has been using Artego for about a year, spends five days a week on the road teaching technical classes for the line. On Saturdays she’s back in the salon applying the colour to her own clients’ hair. She says this gives her that hands-on understanding of the colour’s performance.

“Artego contains a double-density translucent molecule,” she explains, “which means you can apply shades from scalp to ends on the most porous hair and the result is seamless. No dark ends, no overtone.”

For more information call Artego Canada at 888.735.4247 or visit www.salon52.ca.—SP

Absolutely anti-age Schwarzkopf re-launches enhanced-formula Igora Royal Absolutes

a

s your clients age, their desire to maintain a youthful image increases. Especially with the boomer generation, this has created a demand and need for more and more anti-aging products.

“Igora Royal Absolutes continues to deliver 100 per cent white hair coverage without having to add a natural shade,” says Amanda Capobianco, brand manager for Schwarzkopf Professional’s Igora colour line. New to the Igora Royal Absolutes is the addition of the Biotin-S Anti-Age Technology. This unique complex of vitamin B7 (biotin) and silica strengthens and restores by filling in the gaps in the hair’s structure to ensure perfect hair pigment coverage.

“The range has been created to suit any age and delivers brilliant colour intensity to restore hair that may have lost its vitality over the years,” adds Capobianco. “The microfine concentrated colour pigments offer perfectly predictable colour results on all levels of white hair.”

But most of all, the good news is that Igora Royal Absolutes is now available in 15 highfashion shades, making it a perfect shade range for your clients who are concerned with anti-aging. As of this month, the line now has four new gold shades, two new auburn shades and one new copper shade in addition to its original line of eight reds and browns.—SP

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men

make men Over The top 5 cosmetic surgeries for men

By Chantel Simmons

T

hinking about a fall tuneup? A little nip around the nipple, a tuck around the tush? Here’s a rundown of the top five surgeries* North American men had last year. Love handles, be gone!

> LiposucTion What it is: This procedure removes fatty tissue from your problem areas, such as tummy, chest, thighs, arms or even neck and chin.

How it’s done: Typically performed under general anesthesia, liposuction takes three forms. In tumescent lipo, the doctor makes a small incision in the skin, then inserts a thin tube that breaks down and suctions out fatty tissue. In ultrasoundassisted liposuction, sound waves dislodge fat cells, which are then removed.

This process reduces blood loss and bruising. It’s most effective in areas where the tissue is fibrous, such as the male breast. Power-assisted liposuction uses special equipment to give the suction device the power necessary to remove fat, rather than using the physician’s personal force and energy.

Cost: $3,000 to $10,000.

> EyELid surgEry

> nosE Job What it is: Whether the problem due to injury or genes, a nose can be surgically corrected to alter the size, shape and alignment.

How it’s done: Depending on the characteristics of your nose, your doctor will choose either the open or closed method of surgery. In the open method, an incision is made across the skin between the nostrils. This allows the surgeon to see the internal structure of your nose better. While this may allow the surgeon to operate with greater precision and ease, there will be more swelling, and it will take longer to recover. In the closed method, used for less difficult cases, no external incision is made.

Cost: $6,000 to $9,200.

> MaLE brEasT rEducTion What it is: Excess breast tissue—usually caused by a combination of diet, heredity and aging—can be removed to give a firmer, flatter chest.

How it’s done: The surgery can be performed in two ways: a small incision may be made under the nipple and excess tissue surgically excised, or

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liposuction is performed through a similar incision at the edge of the nipple. Ultrasonic lipo has proved particularly effective in this procedure.

To get the best results, liposuction and excision are often combined.

Cost: $2,500 to $6,000.

> Hair TranspLanT What it is: For men or women sensitive about their hair loss, transplants can help restore hair growth and self-esteem. A hair transplant physician should be consulted to recommend the best course of treatment.

How it’s done: Hair is removed from the donor area and isolated into single- or two-haired grafts, which are then planted close together to provide a more natural look. You may have a single treatment or choose to revisit, depending on the amount of donor hair that you have left.

Cost: $3,000 to $14,000 per session. S *Source: American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery.

Chantel Simmons is the editor-in-chief of Elevate magazine, covering antiaging, enhancement and wellness.

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jupiterimages

What it is: Blepharoplasty removes fatty tissue and tightens sagging skin around the eye. This popular procedure can be performed on your upper eyelids, lower eyelids or both during the same appointment.

How it’s done: An incision is made on your upper eyelid, hidden in the crease. On your lower eyelid, the incision is made just below your lash line. Skin is then separated from the underlying tissue and muscle, and excess fat and skin are trimmed or removed.

Cost: Upper lid: $3,500; lower lid: $3,500; combination: $6,000.

R

c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry

Deliciously Divine Olivier Miotto speaks about Glam Salon Boutique’s Contessa 19 Salon Team collection Edited by Tina Christopoulos

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e wanted to show a cosmopolitan

collection featuring wearable styles that are still elegant. Generally, we get our inspiration from different elements that surround us, like music, magazines, designers, different cities we visit and the people we see on the street. We like to stay in touch with what’s going on in the different capitals of the world, like London, Paris, NYC and Berlin, where there’s a constant renewal of ideas and trends. All these elements have really defined our look and helped us stay up-to-date and contemporary.

For this collection, we were really inspired by street style. We wanted to create a very urban, everyday look, a timeless collection with a modern twist. We called it Divine because it speaks to ultra-feminine, urban, sophisticated women who pride themselves on being on trend. We based our Hair: Olivier Miotto, Didier Cousin, Alexandre Hatami, Sabrina Simeone Colour: Genevieve Pichet, Shirley Jehanne Makeup: Julie Chabot, Jessica Manzo.

Wardrobe: Chantal Bessette.

Assistants: Annabelle Giraud, Bachir Merdouck.

Photos: Genevieve Charbonneau

cuts on classic techniques reminiscent of different eras, such as the classic Vidal Sassoon bob or old Hollywood styles of the 50s, but redefined them to fit the modern day. This process really brought us closer together. Once we were all on the same page with our vision, we were united by our creativity, passion and eagerness to create impeccable work.

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“This is a longer bob with lots of layers that we messed up.

We wanted to create an undone look, similar to what you saw in the 80s, inspired by the Jacques Dessange look.”

t

“We wanted to focus on famous hairstyles that defined certain eras. This one depicts the roaring 20s. We reinvented Vidal Sassoon’s classic bob.”

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c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry

“This look was inspired by the 50s, and that whole old Hollywood glamour, very Rita Hayworth.”

The Classics

Inspiration

Glam Salon Boutique’s Contessa

19 storyboard

Luxe Tux The wardrobe was inspired by a very masculine tuxedo look, with neckties and butterfly knots. “We wanted minimalist evening wear.

The pieces are all vintage accessories that have been customized to fit each of the girls.”

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Tool Box Colouring with shades from Wella, the Glam team used Sebastien and Kérastase styling products for the finishing touches. Kérastase Lumière Nutri-Sculp and Nacre Nutri-Sculp were used to add a luminous effect to hair. S

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Runway photos Michael Banasiak, Rita haywoRth keystone pRess agency

Glam Salon reinterpreted classic Hollywood glamour and looked to screen legends like Rita Hayworth for raw inspiration.

SCENE

IconIc RebIRth The reinvention of Sebastian Professional

By Stephen Puddister

O

PHOTOS COURTESY SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL

n April 23 Salon Magazine was among a lucky select group of industry insiders to be invited to EyeBeam—one of New York’s coolest venues—for a sneak preview of the new Sebastian Professional line hitting salons this month.

Originally introduced in the 1970s, Sebastian is a pioneer in innovative styling tools, creating a huge brand portfolio that includes names like Originals, Laminates/ Laminates Sheer, Body Double, Xtah, Evokativ and the salon cosmetics line Trucco.

FORM Attitude-lAden stylers inspired by the way true style can transform even the most basic silhouette into something fierce, this eight-product line holds, moulds and sculpts hair.

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“The re-launch of an iconic brand like Sebastian Professional is a great example of our commitment to bring breakthrough technologies to the professional channel. It will drive total category growth through new forms and service ideas, and translate into growth for the total professional care industry,” said Kevin Otero, general manager, Procter & Gamble (P&G) Professional Care, North America, owners of Sebastian Professional. As part of this rebirth, P&G conducted exhaustive stylist and consumer testing, initiating over 10,000 conversations and product trials that led to a true co-creation of a professional brand.

The new Sebastian Professional is a powerful collection of over 30 products developed via harnessing P&G’s more than 250 years in hair care and styling and global beauty resources. By combining Sebastian Professional’s heritage heroes with new and exciting innovation, the products are designed to offer versatility and inspiration to stylists.

The new brand architecture reflects a more focused approach to care, styling and treatment services.

For more details on the new Sebastian Professional line go to www.salon52.ca. S

FOUNDATION

FLOW

Style-Building From the root

treatment couture

three shampoo and conditioner treatments that go back to the basics of style: prepping hair through cleansing and rebuilding.

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Six treatment-stylers create hair hair that’s easy on the hands and eyes. thicken, defrizz and soften tresses before styling.

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2008 Fall Trend Report Edited by Morella Aguirre

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t

Runway photos Michael Banasiak

ccording to Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top designers, fall/ winter 2008 is all about town versus country. Lines like Comrags and Gsus fell for landscape-insprired hues and fuzzy fur trims.

Meanwhile, city folks like Pink Tartan, Joeffer Coac and David Dixon were caught up designing for club-going goth girls and chic city women. Finally, there were those who just couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t decide and, like Paul Hardy, sent girls down the runway in a mix of furs, feathers and hardcore attitude.

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Fall Fashion

S

ummerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s flowery colour palette changes to a chic, autumn-inspired mix of rust, copper, mustard and red for fall 2008. Labels like Comrags and Gsus represented the look on Canadian runways, while John Paul Mitchell Systems reflects the trend with the introduction of eight new Copper Series shades. Avedaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fall face colours add the perfect finishing touch with rustic and bronzy tones.

Collection: Paul Mitchell the color Copper Series imagery; Hair: Linda Yodice and Scott Cole; Photos: courtesy John Paul Mitchell Systems

Aveda fall 2008 face colours; (clockwise from top left) Blending brush, Uruku face bronzer in Brazilian Sun and Uruku cheeklip cream in Solara

Comrags

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Gsus

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I

n classic Canadian style, fur reigned on the runways this season with labels like Gsus, Comrags, Andy Thé-Anh and Paul Hardy all giving a stylish nod to furry textures. Swapping fuzz for haute couture curls, L’Oréal’s Texture Expert international collection offers luxurious, soft and tactile-rich styles. Complete this lavish look with neutrals from CND’s fall colour storyboard, Neutrals of the Nights. t

Lush Fuzz

Collection: L’Oréal Professionnel Texture Expert imagery; Hair: L’Oréal Professionnel International Artistic Team; Photos: courtesy L’Oréal Professionnel CND’s Neutrals of the Night fall/winter colour palette; (L-R) Serenity, Burgundy Foil and Crowned

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Witchcraft A

dash of lace and a few feather trims update moody, black-on-black ensembles at Pink Tartan, Paul Hardy and Joeffer Coac. Schwarzkopf’s Gothic Romance trend from its autumn/winter 2008 Essential Looks The Eclectic Collection interprets the goth girl mood with sleek ebony locks and mesmerizing navy blue highlights. OPI’s latest La Collection de France offers a dark and dreary palette for tips and lips.

Collection: Gothic Romance from The Eclectic Collection, Schwarzkopf Essential Looks autumn/winter 2008; Creative direction: Steve Hogan; Creative direction, hair: Tyler Johnston; Photos: Schwarzkopf Professional

OPI’s La Collection de France; (L-R) You Don’t Know Jacques!, Louvre Me Louvre Me Not and Parlez Vous OPI?

Paul Hardy 50

Pink Tartan

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Joeffer Coac

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Designer Jewels R

ichly concentrated jewel tones were present at this season’s Andy Thé-Anh, David Dixon, Pink Tartan and Joeffer Coac shows. Goldwell’s new Elumen Yellow pure tone helps create complementing, colour-intense looks on hair, and SST’s latest sparkling colours for eyes and lips round out the jewel box look with an array of gem-like shades. S

Collection: Goldwell Elumen Yellow imagery; Hair: Goldwell Artistic Team; Photos: courtesy Goldwell

SST fall 2008 collection; (L-R) Diamond Dusk eye shadow in Cool Diamonds, Berry Rich lip colour and liquid liner

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Joeffer Coac

Pink Tartan

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CHECK IT ONLINE

se p t e m b e r ’08

Who made the cut?

Be the first to see the Contess 20 semifinalists list by subscribing to the salon52 newsletter ONLINE vIdEO EXCLUSIvES

>

B re a king int o e dit o ri al s tyl i ng.

T ips from Tony Ma s ci angel o.

COMPLETE COLLECTIONS >

INDIVIDUALITY

> L’ORéAL PROFESSIONNEL TEXTURE EXPERT CANADA

> LA BIOSTHETIQUE DIGITAL BOHEMIAN

> dAMIEN CARNEY AFRIQUE

> EdWIN JOHNSTON MANNEQUIN NOIR

Tour Mic ha e l K lut he’s re nov a t e d sa lon.

NEW PROdUCT FEATURES

>

Se ba st ia n Profe ssional re la unc h

> >

R e dke n R e a l Cont rol Ma t r ix Sle e k.Look

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COLLECTIONS > NEWS+EVENTS > FEATURES+PROFILES > JOBS > VIDEOS > CONTESSA 52

salon > september 08

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Photo courtesy La Biosthetique

> MATRIX

damien carney & edwin johnston’s

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E

Africa

merging from two distinct parts of the world, Britain’s Damien Carney and Nanaimo, B.C.’s Edwin Johnston each found their latest muse in one exotic place: the strong and diverse silhouettes of the people, landscape and wildlife of Africa. Even though their inspiration was derived from the same source, Carney’s Afrique and Johnston’s Mannequin Noir remain two wildly different collections. t

left/right photos hair damien carney, photo hama sanders centre photo hair edwin johnston, photo babak

visioNs of

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African Art Influenced by the visual culture of Africa, Damien Carney creates Afrique

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Te x t b y S t e p h e n P u d d i s t e r

W

t

hen Damien Carney, Joicoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s international artistic director, last visited Africa, he found inspiration in Eliot Elisofonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s photographic depiction of African art and culture in the book La Sculpture Africaine. Carney decided to create his own visual interpretation of this magestic continent. The result is a gorgeous collection titled Afrique.

Photographing it over a year ago with long time creative partners Sue Pemberton and Hama Sanders, Carney recently released his Afrique collection to international acclaim.

Like the sculptures that inspired them, the photos focus on human form, sculputural shapes and visual abstraction. Through the use of natural textures and hairpieces, Carney weaves an intricate web of shapes, lines, curves and colours.

Combining bold makeup and wardrobe, he gives Afrique a very sensual feeling that is hauntingly true to its namesake.

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African Art

Collection:: Afrique Hair: Damien Carney, www.damiencarney.com Colour: Sue Pemberton, www.suepemberton.com Makeup: Walter Obal Photos: Hama Sanders www.hamasanders.com

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S

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QUALITY THAT INSPIRES CREATIVITY

A LEADER IN WORLD CLASS STYLING TOOLS FOR OVER 5 DECADES , DANNYCO IS YOUR TRUSTED SOURCE FOR HIGH TECH CURLING IRONS.

www.dannyco.com

“I have designed a resolutely modern but equally glamorous and sexy collection for Maletti.

A zen and ultra sophisticated ambiance” Didier Gomez, Paris, 2006

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Destination

AfricA Under Edwin Johnston’s umbrella tree Te x t b y A n u p a M i s t r y

p

t

roviding shade for restless wanderers against the sweltering heat of the Serengeti, the umbrella tree, with its oblong, hazy foliage stands solitary on the sparse plains of western Africa. it’s this regal and lone silhouette that inspired Edwin Johnston of The cutting room in Nanaimo, B.c. to create the Mannequin Noir collection.

“I loved the texture where I brushed her hair out and it just separated. It was totally unique.”

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Working with both natural hair and afro extensions, Johnston used clippers to sculpt geometric shapes with softened edges that recall the wizened, flat-topped trees synonymous with the savannah. “It was all about the hair,” says Johnston, Canadian artistic director for KMS California. “No clothing, just strong body shapes with exaggerated hair styles.”

The collection, which uses natural hair pigments and relies on cloud-like shaping to make a statement, is full of gravitydefying, earthy inspiration.

“Living on Vancouver Island, I don’t often come into contact with black hair,” Johnston says. “I think it’s very important for people to try different things and experiment with different looks.”

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“I’m a big fan of asymmetry. I love when it still looks balanced. It’s funny how it can be severe and strong and balanced all at the same time.”—EJ

Collection: Mannequin Noir Hair: Edwin Johnston Makeup: Raquel Atienza Models: Elmer Olsen Model Management Photos: Babak S

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red alert

Matrix makes wind-swept look sleek

I

Collection: Individuality Hair: Matrix Global Design Team Wardrobe: Aris Geogiadis Photos: courtesy Matrix

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Te x t b y A n u p a M i s t r y

ndividuality, the latest trend collection from Matrix, exudes a feeling of wind-swept movement.

Playing on the idea of a unique look that can be made over in multiple ways, the Matrix creative team explores bold lines that can be worn for maximum impact or infused with softness. Bold bangs, long waves and angled curls are sleek, subtly flared and spiked with redâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;sometimes a simple shot, other times a liberal dose. Texture is all about opposing forces: flat goes big, smooth meets spikes, and sleek unfurls curl.

The entire collection, which could easily inspire office-to-evening style, comprises six trends with their own posse of switch-ups. For all six trends, go to www.salon52.ca. S

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Hair: Guylaine Martel

Disco’n’age “More and more clients are becoming concerned with the well-being of their hair.

With Texture Expert, we can address these concerns, since it offers infinite creativity and the benefits of a treatment.”

—Guylaine Martel

Haute Coiffure Inspired by haute couture, L’Oréal Professionnel introduces Texture Expert styling line Te x t b y T i n a C h r i s t o p o u l o s

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aute couture has long been considered the top tier of fashion design, coveted by the world’s most discerning style mavens. Using the best in tailoring, fabrics and fashion, one-of-a-kind creations are customized to fit the client’s unique personality and desires.

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Hair: Daniel Fiorio

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Inspired by this concept, which started in Paris, L’Oréal Professionnel is launching a line of products under the name of Texture Expert.

These products offer stylists the tools to transform specific hair textures. No longer limited by the styling possibilities of the texture itself, stylists can customize their creations according to every client’s texture.

“We are really excited about this line because it truly grasps the essence of what L’Oréal Professionnel is all about,” says Minh-Dan Tran, marketing manager for L’Oréal Professionnel. “It reinforces our expertise in technology by being able to treat the hair while offering the ideal tools to stylists to make their job easier. It’s also in complete alignment with our Paris origins through the haute couture aspect.”

Comprised of three hair-texture-specific sublines, Texture Expert caters to fine/limp, medium/ thick or coarse/rebellious hair, with a collection of five styling products for the first two hair categories and four products for the third. There’s also a finishing collection of three products with varying degrees of control. One is for building a base of volume and structural support, the second is for creating lasting form, construction and strong control, and the third offers superior control that will achieve haute couture effects.

Photographed by Leda & St-Jacques, here we bring you a collection of images created by L’Oréal Professionnel’s Canadian artistic team to showcase some of the styling possibilities of Texture Expert. For more details on the product line, go to www.salon52.ca.

“With Texture Expert hair feels like the most luxurious fabric.”

—Daniel Fiorio

Hair: Daniel Benoit

“With these products, hair looks healthy and shines no matter what.”

—Daniel Benoit

Products from the coarse/rebellious collection. w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

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Hair: Louis Hechter

Hair: Heather Wenman

”I am so proud to have my name associated with one of the most premier lines L‘Oréal has ever launched.”

—Louis Hechter

”A complete set of styling aids for artists who know Collection: Individuality how to dress today’sHair: hair.”Matrix Global Design Team Wardrobe: Aris Geogiadis —Heather Wenman Photos: courtesy Matrix

Hair: Frank Cini

”Texture Expert allows us to create a myriad of high fashion styles in reduced time and with unprecedented conditioning.”

—Frank Cini S

Hair: Anna Pacitto-Merlo

“At first touch, you immediately feel the high quality of the products.”

—Anna Pacitto-Merlo

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Skin Radiance with

SiMPly WhiTe

The Skin Glows With New Light...

Simply White is a complete and functional System for dull complexion and hyper-pigmentation.

Featuring the latest generation of Depigmenting Agents: • Sepihwhite • Biowhite • Bearberry • Magnesium Phosphate (Vitamin C) • Tego Cosmo C250 • Glycolic acid • Plus Transcutol a true molecular carrier for penetration of active ingredients Simple White reduces and lightens skin blotches. The Result?

RadianT, eVen, SMooTh Skin Visible effects from the first application Professional Facial and home Care Products Call to arrange a personalized demonstration

Canada Exclusive Importer 1.800.263.4333 | Shop Online: www.intercosmetics.ca Distributor inquiries welcome: sales@intercosmetics.ca

www.rvb.eu

Bohemian Rhapsody La Biosthetique strays from cultural conformity

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Text by Anupa Mistry

n the fringes of the establishment are

Urban

the bohemians. These wayfaring artists and intellectuals who stand in opposition

to the bourgeois and embody an alternative and unconventional cool are La Biosthetiqueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s muses for its Digital Bohemian collection. Ranging from androgynous to graphic, the four trends that make up the collection draw on sleek, Art Deco-type lines that represent urban life outside the mainstream and fit in with fallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sophisticated and sombre colour palette.

GeBo, Urban, MidGap and PopDandy are angular and purposely imperfect. The cuts have texture that appears shattered and slightly jagged without abandoning maturity. Block colouring is used to express utility and a slight severity, while gold, beige and violet tints temper that rigour with a playful edge.

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GeBo

Collection: Digital Bohemian, La Biosthetique fall/winter 2008 GeBo trend: cut by Jรถrg Zimmer; colour

by Maurizio Randazzo Urban trend: cut by Stephane Gallien; colour by Marc Riese MidGap trend: Cut by Jรถrg Zimmer; colour by Maurizio Rand Wardrobe: Dawn Cleis Photos: Pierluigi Macor S

MidGap

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september 08 < salon

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gold sponsors s i lve r sponsors

CELEBRATING TWO

DECADES

OF

BEAUTY

HAIR EDWIN JOHNSTON COLOUR FIONA JOHNSTON MAKEUP KRISTEN COUTU PHOTO BABAK CONTESSA 19

CONTESSA gala noV. 2 nd 2008 Sheraton Centre Toronto Hotel THE

CANADIAN

HAIRSTYLIST

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AWA R D S

TiCkeTS on Sale noW! Early bird special and Contessa gala + Contessa Unplugged combo tickets available. Go to www.salon52.ca.

F o r t i c k e t s a l e s call 416.869.3131 ext. 108 G o t o w w w. s a l o n 5 2 . c a f o r m o r e i n f o r m a t i o n

nails

Eco STAr Star Nail introduces its first eco-conscious line

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et’s face it: offering your nail enhancement clients a green alternative is not easy. What’s more, most eco-minded ladies tend to believe that going au naturelle is the only way to keep a healthy world, mind and body. Although the days of overexposure to harsh chemicals are long gone in the nail industry, your typical organiceating, reusable-bag-carrying ecoholic would still rather avoid wearing gel or acrylic enhancements altogether.

Star Nail is looking to narrow the gap between eco- and healthconscious clients and the nail enhancement sector with its first ecominded nail kit, the new Eco Nail Systems. Including products for both the natural nail and for creating nail enhancements, Eco Nail includes Eco Calcium Gel (to strengthen nail natural nails), Eco Gel Overlay (to reduce breakage), Eco Powder and Gel System (for a clear gel finish with the strength of a powder) and Eco Powder and Liquid System (for traditional enhancements).

So what’s so eco about the Eco Nail line? It features a completely odour free formula—making your salon environment gentler on a client’s sense of smell—and recyclable, eco-friendly packaging.

This means that even if hardcore earth junkies are unlikely to accept this line as being totally green, Eco Nail is a great step towards a healthier salon/spa environment. It proves that nail manufacturers are in tune with market trends and with the need to protect the earth.

And it’s a great alternative for any nail tech who’s ever heard a client say, “Wow, that smell really hit me when I walked in.”

Green Thinking Looking for more eco-friendly goods?

Here are a few of the latest.

Made with 83 per cent organic and vegan ingredients, SpaRituals new moisturizing lotions are part of the brand’s Chakra Care System of relaxation. Available in three formulations, one featuring eucalyptus, one with geranium and one with frankincense. Visit www.sparitual.com.

SpaRitual’s new Inspired collection features deep, shimmering lacquers for fall/winter 2008. As usual, all SpaRitual polishes are vegan, free of DBP, toluene and formaldehyde and packaged in an earth-friendly way. Visit www.sparitual.com.

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By Morella Aguirre

All Season Nails’ new biodegradable slippers are made with a foam material designed to completely break down.

Soft and flexible, they give all the hygienic benefits of a disposable without the eco-guilt.

However, since most products thrown in the trash end up in landfills where they cannot biodegrade easily, it’s still best to toss these puppies in the recycle bin. Go to www. allseaonnails.com. S

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Salon: $119.90 for 2 Butter Towers & Get a Free Banner

Enhancing The Scentual Spa Experience In Canada 800.661.9997 780.465.2131 www.cuccio.com

ESTHETICS

Zone Solution

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n a very savvy initiative, licensed Dermalogica skin therapists across the country have been booking clients for Dermalogica’s MicroZone Treatments: 20 minute problem-zapping sessions that quickly target, reduce and speed recovery of everything from zone-specific breakouts to all-over dehydration or stubborn congestion.

Clients can book treatments like Flash Exfoliation (giving the skin a refreshed glow), Eye Treatments (erasing dark circles, de-puffing, firming or reducing fine lines) and Occasional Breakouts, to name a few.

This concept combines a short time frame with targeted skin treatment, making it perfect for clients who are committed to skin care but have limited time for services. In other words, estheticians can probably expect to treat MicroZone clients often and send them home with appropriate care products. A great combination for any esthetics business.—SP

Scandinavian Soak & Scrub

The latest additions to caring for clients’ feet, hands and body from Nordic Care are the Herbal Soak and Sea Salt Scrub. With a blend of moisturizing vitamins, rich oils and marine-based curative botanicals, the Herbal Soak can be used for full body bath, feet or hand services. Lactic acid helps loosen dead skin cells while moisturizing.

The Sea Salt Scrub has a blend of Scandinavian extracts and natural sea salts that warm and exfoliate rough, dry skin on hands and feet. Extracts of thyme leaf, lovage leaf (from the parsley family), caraway seed and elderberry are just some of the ingredients that help cleanse and restore the skin. Both products can be used alone or in conjunction with each other. For more info on the complete line, go to www.salon52.ca. —SP

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One and Only The new One Care line from Italian beauty company RVB offers easy to use and versatile products for in-salon and at-home care.

Employing natural active ingredients with targeted results, the line is ideal for cleansing, regenerating and treating problem skin.

Featured here, the 2-in-1 Milk & Toner is a multi-purpose makeup remover for face, eyes and lips. It removes all traces of makeup in a single step, toning the skin and adding a glow.

Available through Intercosmetics. Go to www.intercosmetics.ca or www.salon52.ca for more info.—MA

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ta n n i n g

Tanning Trends Why things are looking up

jupiterimages

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recent survey conducted online by Smart Tan for international salons, including those in Canada, indicated that nearly 75 per cent of tanning businesses met or exceeded their expectations in the first months of this year.

This upsurge in business appears to have a few causes. “Previously, tanning was all about appearance. Our industry was focused on the 18-to-25 year-old age group,” says Steve Gilroy, director of Smart Tan Canada. “But now we also have an entirely different group—an older group—who are concerned about vitamin D.” According to Gilroy, vitamin D testing has increased by 10 times because people are seeing the vital health benefits it provides.

According to Nik VanHaeren from Uvalux Canada, customers are tanning more responsibly and educating themselves on the pros and cons. “Countries with sunnier climates have fewer flu bugs and lower rates of colon cancer.”

Vitamin D has also been linked with reducing the risk of breast cancer and named as a preventative for multiple sclerosis. Canada has one of the highest rates of MS in the world. “I think people are seeing tanning as a combination of health and appearance benefits,” says VanHaeren.

Gilroy agrees. “What was always perceived as a beauty industry is now shifting towards a therapeutic industry. For every death caused by skin cancer, there are 59 caused by vitamin D deficiency. This problem increases dramatically north of the 39th parallel.”

VanHaeren also points out that economic factors are affecting the tanning business. “People don’t want to spend money on expensive holidays, so they are having a ‘staycation.’ And if they’re going to stay at home, tanning is definitely an affordable luxury.”

The general improvement many tanning businesses have seen also reflects owners who are using the information on vitamin D to their advantage. “They are learning as much as possible,” says VanHaeren, “and educating their staff, who are in turn educating their clients. This keeps people coming back.”—PF

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PROFILE

Canadian Idol Tony Masciangelo is one of Canada’s top editorial stylists, but how did he land his premier status? Alison McGill gets up close and personal with the superstar.

How do you balance your demanding career?

“I’ve spent most of my career working on photo sets, all of it behind the chair, and I wouldn’t change that—it’s what keeps me fresh and grounded.

Every day I’m behind the chair, I get to practise and evolve my style.

The salon is my mothership. It has everything I need and it’s a place where I feel very at home.”

huge art lover and have been known to draw inspiration for hair from shapes in paintings I love. I read and I travel a lot and find lots of inspiration from the places I go.”

You’re not just a hairstylist, but a makeup artist, too. When did you start doing makeup?

“It’s something I’ve basically always done. When I started shooting, I realized I had a total vision for my pictures and doing my own makeup made sense. It became an integral part of my branding because it set me apart from other artists. Today magazines want people who can do both because it saves time and money.”

Define your style.

“Typically, I’m the go-to-guy for soft, structured hair, rock ’n’ roll looks and gorgeous, milky skin!”

Favourite place you’ve travelled to?

“Paris. I am addicted to macaroons from Ladurée and I love shopping around the Passage de l’Industrie area because it’s packed with hair

What inspires you?

“I look at magazines, but I never rely on them to stoke my creativity. If it’s in print, it’s been done, and I always strive to deliver a unique vision. I’m a www.salon52.ca.

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supply stores where you can pick up some amazing things.”

What was your first big editorial break?

“It was a story for Chatelaine with Canadian model Lorca Moore. I was on top of the world the day I got the call!”

Beauty musts while on set?

“For hair, L’Oréal Elnette Supreme Hold hairspray, Davines Volume Mousse and my Mason Pearson brush. For makeup, my secret moisturizer, Giorgio Armani foundation and volumizing mascara.”

Any advice for stylists wanting to be the next Tony Masciangelo?

“It’s all about the hustle. You’ve got to be savvy about branding yourself and be a service-oriented, hard-working professional. It’s that simple. When things start happening, consider joining an agency that will manage and promote you. Agents are the people magazines typically deal with to find their shoot talent.” S

Tony talks about his career path and offers tips for up-and-coming stylists looking to break into editorial styling. Only on www.salon52.ca.

See it on Sept. 6, 2008 .

This page: Masciangelo by adaM leveTT, coco Rochas by Michael williaMs opposiTe page: Top lefT by Max abadian, all oTheRs by chRis nicholls

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aria, Lisa Cant, Heather Marks and Liisa Winkler are just a few of the supermodels you’ll find in Tony Masciangelo’s portfolio; ladies he’s primped and preened for magazines including Flare, FASHION, FQ, Elle Canada, Weddingbells and Vanity Fair. “Having these girls in my book is one of the most rewarding things about my job,” Tony smiles.

“Being on set with amazing models, photographers and magazine editors definitely has its glam moments, but it’s certainly not all glamour. It’s unbelievably intense work, and to be successful, you need to do it because you absolutely love it.”

When I met with the Toronto-based Masciangelo (who’s represented by the artist agency Plutino Group) to chat about his career, he’d just returned from back-to-back trips to Dublin and Lake Louise, working on jobs for Harry Rosen and Flare,

respectively. He tells me both gigs were brilliant, the photos fabulous, but also that life on the road can be tiring, especially when you’re in the throes of opening a new business. An 18-year industry veteran, Masciangelo will open The Alcorn Salon, his first venture into salon ownership (he co-owns The Alcorn with Darren Z. and Jed Puznak, who’s also his life partner) in late September. “We are so excited,” Tony says. “The Alcorn is all about good hair, enjoyed in a luxe, low-key environment.”

So what makes this style star tick?

He spills his secrets in this candid Q&A.

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presents

CONTESSA

Unplugged Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s talk about

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INTERIORS

t

After 53 years as a stylist, Michael Kluthe concerns himself with design and dĂŠcor that makes clients feel comfortable. He must be doing something right because his average weekly booking rate is 700 clients. It's no wonder hair industry types call him a Toronto institution.

Urban Edge

photos alex legault contessa 19

by Colette Wright

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INTERIORS Name of Salon: Address: Owners: Opened: Size: Number of Staff: Breakdown: Interior Designer: Furniture & Equipment: Management Software: Retail Hair: Retail Spa: Phone: Hours of Operation:

Web Site:

S

tand on the corner of Yonge Street and St. Clair Avenue in uptown Toronto and you can’t help notice the number of ladies walking into Michael Kluthe. The women-only salon, which opened in 1967 in an 1,800-square-feet space, has drastically grown in size and popularity since its original opening. It’s now 6,500 square feet, and owner and namesake Michael Kluthe attributes his success to outstanding customer service. A 2008 Contessa Awards finalist for salon interior design, Kluthe says many salons invest a lot of money into design and décor. “Looking good can make a client feel special, but the way you design a salon can also affect how your business functions.”

Sandra Fiore, president of Lanvain Design International (Ontario), was asked to update the design with modern touches. “Whatever I suggested or changed, it had to be easy to clean and maintain and had to improve service,” she explains.

At the front entrance, a glass partition wall was installed behind the new white quartz (man-made stone) reception desk with enough space for one person to sit and take calls. “This allows the other reception staff to give their undivided attention to clients arriving and leaving,” Fiore explains. Kluthe adds that this is an example of how design can enhance service.

Retail shelves beside the reception were updated with sandblasted glass to disguise dust and fingerprints. A similar type of glass was placed in front of colour stations to hold beverages.

While most salons have an open concept layout, Michael Kluthe is departmentalized. To the left of reception, there are three change rooms for clients.

The shampoo room holds a row of white back wash sinks with black reclining chairs. A colour-coded smock system helps the army of staff stay organized: clients wearing grey smocks are escorted to one of two styling rooms while those wearing black ones are directed to colour.

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Michael Kluthe 1428 Yonge St., Toronto M4T 1Y5 Michael Kluthe 1967/Design update 2007 6,500 sq. ft.

48 21 cutting stations; 14 colour chairs; 5 cabins in beauty centre Sandra Fiore, Lanvain Design International Maletti & Belvedere Milano Software Michael Kluthe, Schwarzkopf Orlane, Yonka, Acca Kappa & OPI 416.925.6306 Monday 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.; Tuesday/Wednesday 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.; Thursday 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.; Friday 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m; Saturday 9:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. www.michaelkluthe.com

The colour area can see up to 80 clients in one day. On either side of this area are wooden units with a built-in seating bench in front and drawers holding supplies behind. And there’s enough space underneath for storing trolleys.

There are also two mixing rooms—one for colour and another for bleach. In the bleaching room, an exhaust fan helps decrease the amount of fumes.

In the larger styling room, Kluthe brought in a complete cosmetic showcase.

Fiore updated the cutting stations by installing white handle-less push-and-popout drawers for a sleek, modern look. White floor tiles were replaced by hardwood laminate with a vinyl finish. “If something spills, a quick wipe prevents staining, making it easier to maintain,” Kluthe explains.

New lighting tracks outline the edges of each room. Natural light shining through the front and back windows is a main light source, but Fiore added modernized fluorescents, colour corrected for a salon environment.

Dimmed lights line the long beauty centre (spa) hallway. You won't find rows of pedicure thrones or clients in conversation at manicure tables here. Instead, clients get their own treatment room called a cabin. “It's personalized service without the socialization element you find now at many salon spas," Kluthe says. S

Take a walk with Michael Kluthe through his Toronto salon, only on www.salon52.ca. www.salon52.ca

Check it out Sept. 20, 2008.

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Proving Itself

10,000 Times a Day Hot Tools’ 1043 dryer… chosen by a 10,000-salon chain as their backbar dryer.

The reason is its high heat, tourmaline and ion-loaded airflow which softens, shines and dries hair faster. It’s also lightweight and quiet.

Perfect for 10,000 salons… and for you.

Hot Tools 1043.

See your Hot Tools distributor or call 1-800-487-8769

© 2008 Helen of Troy. All rights reserved. (PR2107)

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HOT PRODUCTS

hotpicks

by Anupa Mistry

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5

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Wild finger CND’s Scentsations Wildflower & Chamomile wash and lotion, recently re-lauched in CND’s new image, are a soothing and anti-inflammatory tag team that drives away impurities embedded in the skin and delivers a smooth shot of moisture. The key ingredient in this fragrant duo is relaxing chamomile essential oil, which will help calm clients’ skin and senses. For more info, visit www.cnd.com.

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TiMe on your Side Super-light and infused with healing aloe vera, Cuccio Lyte is a nourishing body butter that helps to fight the signs of aging (think wrinkles and fine lines) on hands and feet.

Non-greasy but loaded with moisture-packed vitamins and extracts, the lotion time-lapses the release of emollients so dry skin stays hydrated up to 24 hours after finishing a salon treatment.

For more info, visit www.cuccio.com.

Miracle Worker The newly re-launched Schwarzkopf Color Save range is all about increased performance. Color Shield technology helps protect against UV rays, and a new addition, Moringa oleifera from the West African miracle tree, reinforces and fortifies hair’s structure. Color Save also provides options for a milder treatment with a new sulfate-free shampoo.

For more info, visit www. schwarzkopf-professional.ca.

docTor’S orderS Get hair back into shape with Health Factor, the latest addition to TIGI’s swank S-Factor line. Created to boost tired scalps and repair damage caused by chemical and environmental stresses, the yucca- and nettle-infused range consists of a shampoo, conditioner, one-shot moisture therapy protectants and a take-home set of shea butter-loaded balance boosters. For more info, visit www.tigi.com.

Spray alive Eufora continues to deliver the goods for coloured and chemically treated hair. Its latest offering, Curl’N Spray Revitalizer, is a biodegradable formula that shakes up lifeless curls when you’re on the go. Combining the company’s renowned certified organic aloe vera gel with sweet lychee berry extract, it packs a humidity-fighting punch for curls that are defined and soft. For more info, visit www.eufora.net.

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photos chris tsintziras

1

HOT PRODUCTS

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man up Create defined, mediumhold styles for men with short-to -medium-length hair using FixMen by Quantum’s Handy Man Crafting Clay.

Kaolin and bentonite clays pull product residue away from the scalp without overdrying, while a special blend of build-up-free waxes allows the hair to be reworked over and over again for maximum style versatility. Perfect for the lowmaintenance man. For more info, call 800.267.4676.

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meadow ready New to Bain de Terre’s style remedy collection is the texturizing, green meadowscented Define ‘n Shine Sweet Honey Pomade. A twist stick is perfect for the purse and makes it easy to get spot definition and piecey seperation without the mess.

Honey extract not only smells great, but attracts water molecules to nourish and renew hair, helping to smooth flyaways. For more info, visit www.baindeterre.com.

rough and tumble Redken for Men’s mineralsalt-infused texture putty provides top control for guys wanting immediate chunky and edgy definition with a matte, just-rolled-out-of-bed finish. The creamy formula smooths easily into hair and dries crunch-free without greasiness. The result?

Oversized pieces with enough flexibility and control for easy restyling with zero clumping.

For more info, visit www.redken.com.

body builder Paul Mitchell’s unisex Tea Tree Styling Gel helps inject dull, limp hair with body and shine. A blend of natural ingredients like lavender, aloe and, of course, tea tree oil tames unruly flyaways and encourages thickening, leaving hair manageable and fresh-smelling. Purchases of Tea Tree products go toward offsetting carbon emissions from its production and distribution. For more info, visit www.paulmitchell.com.

ancient inspiration To celebrate 30 years of botanical beauty, Aveda has re-launched its original Clove Shampoo, created in 1978.

Organic clove, coffee and aloe mingle to gently cleanse and bring out golden tones in brown hair. The classic, earthy-scented wash was originally inspired by ancient Indian Ayurvedic practices that promote holistic mind, body and soul healing. For more info, visit www.aveda.com. S

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COSMETIC TATTOOING TRAINING ACADEMY Earn between $400 to $500 per hour.

Pay from $129*per month to earn it. *(includes training & equipment, based on 60 month term OAC)

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5 day academic curriculum Four instructors to eight students Discounted student product packages Models supplied for all procedures by school Permanent make-up, areola, color correction Color theory direct from pigment manufacturer Nouveau Contour computerized tattoo machines Preferred rates at partnership hotels for out of town students

Contact us for further information.

Micro-Pigmentation Centre, Inc. 5155 Spectrum Way, Building 24 Mississauga, Ontario, Canada L4W 5A1

905 625 5155 888 737 6268 MicroPigmentationCentre.com info@MicroPigmentationCentre.com

events

SEPTEMBER 2008 SHOWS ITA TANNING WORLD EXPO

SASKATOON ABA

September 18—21, 2008 Gaylord Opryland Resort & Convention Center, Nashville, TN Info: www.theita.com

September 28—29, 2008 Prairielands Exhibition Park, Saskatoon Info: www.abacanada.com

HAIRCOLOR USA INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS & SPA LONG BEACH September 20—22, 2008 Long Beach Convention Center, Long Beach, CA Info: www.longbeach.skincareshows.com

HAIRAPALOOZA MONTREAL September 21, 2008, Chalut Info: 450-438-4153

September 6—8, 2008 Hyatt Regency Miami, Miami, FL Info: www.haircolorusaevent.com

HAIR & TREND RELEASE & PROFESSIONALPRODUCT EXPO September 7, 2008 Georgia Freight Depot, Atlanta, GA Info: 770-734-0023

AVEDA CONGRESS HAIR SHOW MID-AMERICAN BEAUTY CLASSIC 2008 September 21—22, 2008

September 13—15, 2008, Minneapolis Info: www.onefashionplace.net

Greater Columbus Convention Center, Columbus, OH Info: www.premiereshows.com

For all classes and educational listings, go to www.salon52.ca.

HAIR CLASSES AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CHI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.361.6607 GLOBAL BEST BEAUTY EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988 GOLDWELL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS including trend zoom seminars; Info: 877.670.6767 GREAT LENGTHS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: www.greatlengths.net KMS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 877.670.6767 L’ORéAL PROFESSIONNEL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Classes include Absolute LP, Colour Keys, Colour on Colour, Essential Texture and the new H3 Academy Info: 800.361.1861 MATRIX EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 888.422.6879 REDKEN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.9.REDKEN SCHWARZKOPF EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 905.625.7200 or

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contact your local Schwarzkopf distributor TIGI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.361.6607 URBAN BEAUTY SYSTEMS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions; In-salon classes available Info: 866.731.4327

NAIL AND ESTHETICS CLASSES AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CND EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: contact your local CND distributor LCN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Visit www.lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings STAR NAIL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.661.9997

See all class listings and full event coverage on www.salon52.ca. w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

all@star

deals

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Quality • Value • Innovation

SEPTEMBER - OCTOBER ’08 SPECIALS

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Fashion Statement

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Introducing Star’s NEW Runway Collection Colour Gel Kit

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SCOOP

Calgary Style

Michael Rizzuto (left) and Lawrence Sarmenta (above), stylists at The Angles Group and The Curious Group in Calgary, have been named Canadian representatives to Sam Brocato’s international design team.

Numero Juno As winners of Schwarzkopf Professional’s OSiS competition, staff from Pixie Chix Salon in Calgary attended the exclusive after-party for this year’s Juno Awards. Three salons in Calgary took on the challenge to sell the most OSiS products over a four-week period. Pixie Chix Salon took first place, followed by Edgeworxx Studio & Esthetics and Salon 240. Go to www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca.

the latest moves SaleS Diva Fran Bigelow has joined Milano Software as VP of sales.

Bringing 14 years of expertise to the role, Bigelow has made it her mission to build a strong sales team and ensure the ongoing success of Milano’s clients. For more information, check out www.milanosoftware.com.

Matrix Man Matrix has announced that Andrey Ognev is its new national director of sales. Formerly working abroad for various industries in Asia and Europe, Ognev brings four years of experience as L’Oréal Professionnel’s Regional Sales Manager for Ontario. Go to www.matrixbeautiful.com.

MaDaM JuDge Cecilia Johnston Leatherberry, creator of the Hair Arts and Sciences Master Judging Program, has retired after dedicating years to raising Canadian competition standards. Leatherberry’s judging program is now owned and operated by the Allied Beauty Association.

For the latest up-to-date news go to www.salon52.ca

salon52.ca Inge Patton (formerly Inge Hatheway) has sold her Alberta Salon Sales Division of Esthetics Plus to long-time employee Stacey Johnson. Based in Edmonton, Esthetics Plus sells professional nail and esthetic products and is the manufacturer’s rep for Image Skin Care/Canada. For info, call 888.422.6677 or visit www.estheticsplus.ca.

Patton remains CEO of LCN Canada, manufacturer’s rep for LCN and Bubalina products in Western Canada. Go to www.lcn. ca or call 800.557.3223 for more.

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salon > september 08

SALON MAGAZINE ONLINE

COLLECTIONS NEWS+EVENTS VIDEOS F E AT U R E S + P R O F I L E S JOBS CONTESSA

oops

In the July/August 2008 issue of Salon Magazine (p. 32) we regretfully misnamed Matthew Schubert from Hennessey Salon and Spa in Calgary as Michael Shubert. We apologize for this error. w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

P R E S S PA S S

LuminAto 2008 Toronto’s Luminato Festival of Arts and Creativity took place from June 5 to 14, with L’Oréal on board again as a creative partner.

To cap off the festival in Toronto, Redken 5th Avenue NYC and Maybelline New York hosted Lofty Ideas: Colours of New York, an event inviting the public to a makeshift loft in Toronto’s historic Distillery District for a live arts event.

Showcasing local graffiti art star Miss EGR, the night also featured break-dancers and several fashion shows revealing the latest looks in hair, makeup and fashion.

Changing gears from breakers to ballerinas, L’Oréal Professionnel hosted a ballet-themed cocktail party raising almost $10,000 for the National Ballet School. Ballerina models sported six signature chignon styles created for Luminato by L’Oréal Professionnel artists.

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september 08 < salon

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P R E S S PA S S

Joico WEbSitE LAunch On June 28, Joico Canada held a premiere screening of its new artistdedicated website, www.joicoartistscanada.com. It was held at The Hazelton Hotel’s private Silver Screening Room in Toronto and several of the site’s featured artists came out to celebrate the launch, including Dyson, Kevyn Martel, Karen Miller and Marc Galati. Joico’s director of education and artist development, Gina Coburn-Steele, was also on hand for the occasion.

nAhA 19 The 19th annual North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA) took place on July 13 at the Mandalay Bay in Las Vegas. A special congratulation to Canadian winners Alain Pereque of Montreal’s Pure, Master Hairstylist of the Year, and Toronto’s John Donato, Editorial Stylist of the Year. Martin Parsons was also honoured for lifetime achievement.

To see full coverage of the NAHAs, go to www.salon52.ca.

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salon > september 08

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USING 3ALON -AGAZINE to advertisers

by phone

on the web

3UBSCRIBE

TO 3ALON -AGAZINE

\ A.I.I. China Glaze pg 34-35 ............................800-621-9585 ........................ www.chinaglaze.com

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A.I.I. IBD pg 83 .................................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.ibdbeauty.com

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ABA Fall 2008 Shows pg 99 ..............................800-268-6644 ........................ www.abacanada.com Action Bag Company pg 94 ...............................866-675-3016 ........................ www.actionbag.com/salonmagazine Artego pg 86 ......................................................888-735-4247 ........................ www.pivotpointcanada.ca

-534 "% 4/ 3!-% ,/#!4)/. '34 ).#,5$%$

â?? YEAR 5 3 SUBSCRIPTION ISSUES 53$

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â?? 0LEASE NOTE MY CHANGE OF ADDRESS AND OR DETAILS BELOW FOR MY 3ALON -AGAZINE SUBSCRIPTION

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Canadian Micro Pigmentation pg 85 ................888-737-6268 ........................ www.cdnmicropigmentation.com Contessa 20 pg 70-71 .......................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca Contessa Unplugged pg 78 ...............................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca Dannyco pg 57 ...................................................800-363-0707 ........................ www.dannyco.com Dream Catchers by Paris Hilton pg 33 .............800-200-HAIR ....................... www.dreamcatchers-canada.com Eufora pg 25 ......................................................800-6EUFORA ....................... www.eufora.net

DATE ?????????????????????????????????

3)'. $!4% 4/ #/.&)2- 9/5 7!.4 4/ 2%#%)6% ! 35"3#2)04)/. 4/ 3!,/. -!'!:).%

3!,/. /7.%23 -534 #/-0,%4% 3%#4)/. "

â?? ) VE ENCLOSED A CHEQUE PAYABLE TO 3ALON #OMMUNICATIONS )NC "ILL MY â?? 6)3! #ARD â?? !-%8 #ARD ?????????????????????????????????????????????? #!2$ .5-"%2 ?????????????????????????????????????????????? %80)29 $!4%

Farouk Biosilk pg 17 .........................................800-237-9175 ........................ www.farouk.com

?????????????????????????????????????????????? #!2$(/,$%2 3 .!-%

Farouk CHI Digital Tools pg 37 .........................800-237-9175 ........................ www.farouk.com

â?? -R â?? -S 'IVEN .AME S ????????????????????????????????????

Great Lengths pg 21 .........................................800-461-9302 ........................ www.greatlengthshair.ca

3URNAME ???????????????????????????????????????

Hairart H3000 Collection pg 29 ........................888-424-7278 ........................ www.hairartproducts.com

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Hot Tools Tourmaline Tools pg 81 ....................800-487-8769 Intercosmetics RVB Simply White pg 67 ..........800-263-4333 ........................ www.intercosmetics.ca

"USINESS .AME ???????????????????????????????????? !DDRESS ???????????????????????????3UITE ????????? #ITY #ITY ????????????????????

0ROV ??? 0# ?????????????

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International Beauty Services pg 93.................800-642-3818

0HONE ?????????????????????????????????????????

ISO Options pg 15..............................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.isohair.com

%MAIL ??????????????????????????????????????????

Joico Design Collection pg 100.........................800-267-4676 ........................ www.joico.com

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Joico re:nu pg 4-5 .............................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.renuagedefy.com Kaaral Pink Up pg 27 ....................................................................................... www.kaaral.com Kenchii pg 46 ....................................................877-553-6244 ........................ www.kenchii.com Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Oreal Professionnel pg 6-7 ............................800-361-8017 ....................... www.lorealprofessionnel.ca Lanvain Didier Gomez pg 58 .............................800-361-2586 ........................ www.lanvain.com LCN pg 31..........................................................888-422-6677 ........................ www.lcn.ca MC College pg 86 ............................................................................................. www.mccollege.ca Milano Computer Systems pg 95......................800-667-1596 ........................ www.milanosystems.com NeoExtensions pg 75 ....................................................................................... www.neoextensions.net OPI La Collection de France pg 19...................800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com Redken Real Control pg 2-3 .............................866-9REDKEN....................... www.redken.ca Salon52 pg 52....................................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca Schwarzkopf Club SKP pg 16 ...........................800-463-3081 ........................ www.clubskp.com Schwarzkopf Igora Royal pg 11-13 ...................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Shark Fin Shears pg 30 ....................................888-544-7254 ........................ www.sharkfinshears.com Star Nail pg 87 ..................................................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com Star Nail Cuccio NaturalĂŠ pg 73 .......................877-852-STAR ....................... www.cuccio.com Torlen Professional pg 43 .................................888-438-9254 ........................ www.torlenpro.com Ultra Manicure pg 92 ........................................800-328-3006 ........................ www.dencoultra.com w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

â?? 0LEASE EMAIL THE WEEKLY SALON NEWSLETTER FOR FREE â?? 0LEASE SEND ME PERIODIC OFFERS FROM RELATED COMPANIES 3%#4)/. " (OW WOULD YOU CLASSIFY THIS LOCATION â?? 3ALON â?? 3PA â?? 3CHOOL â?? -ANUFACTURER â?? $ISTRIBUTOR â?? &RANCHISE â?? &REELANCE â?? (OME "ASED â?? /NE OF MULTIPLE LOCATIONS WITH THE SAME OWNER â?? /THER SPECIFY ??????????????????????

OF %MPLOYEES ????

7HAT SERVICES ARE PROVIDED â?? (AIR #ARE â?? 3KIN #ARE â?? .AIL #ARE â?? (AIR 2EMOVAL â?? 3PA 4REATMENTS â?? 4ANNING â?? /THER SPECIFY ?????????????????????? ???????????????????????????????????

7HAT DO YOU DO â?? #O OWNER â?? /WNER â?? -ANAGER â?? (AIRSTYLIST â?? .AIL 4ECHNICIAN â?? %LECTROLOGIST â?? #OLOURIST â?? %STHETICIAN â?? ,ASER 4ECHNICIAN â?? /THER SPECIFY ?????????????????????? ??????????????????????????????????? &!8 &/2- 4/ -!), &/2- 4/ 3!,/. -!'!:).% 0/ "/8 "%%4/. /. , ' !

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september 08 < salon

91

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salon > september 08

ChAttERS StyliSt ConnECtion Stylists from Chatters salons across Canada converged at the Sheraton Cavalier in Calgary in early June for the Chatters Canada and Redken Stylist Connection event. Peter Downie from Vernon, B.C., was the nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s big winner, taking home trophies for Stylist of the Year, Regional Winner for British Columbia North and Stylist Choice. w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

P r e s s PA s s

MMVA PArties At a pre-Much Music Video Awards (MMVA) party, Redken 5th Avenue NYC was on hand to style some of Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hottest rock â&#x20AC;&#x2122;nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; roll stars. Redken artists worked with Econoline Crush, Corey Lee of Instant Star and a host of others.

Later on that night, Schwarzkopf was on board as a sponsor of Revolver Filmsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; MMVA Afterparty. Held at the Rosewater Supper Club, the party featured celebrity swag bags that included tantalizing Schwarzkopf products. Fresh from winning four awards, members of Hedley provided a heavy dose of star power, while Finger Eleven and k-os were also spotted making rounds. Check out more party photos at www.salon52.ca.

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MAtRix colouRS in cRoAtiA From June 8 to 13, Matrix stylists from 14 countries descended on Croatia for the hair care and colour giant’s World Tour. Among the Canadian contingent was Franco Della Grazia of Montreal’s Franco & Co, who represented Matrix’s International Design Team as its international guest artist.

94

salon > september 08

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Amore Show 2008 On June 1, Avola College held its annual end-of-year bash, the Amore 2008 Hair & Fashion Show at This Is London nightclub in Toronto. Hosted by comedian Frank Spadone, the show featured work from Avola College, Salon G&A, Capucci Salon Spa, JC Salons, Michael’s Hair Body Mind, Epoca Salon, Framar Salon, In Salon, Woody Michleb Hair Salon, Capelli Hairstylists and Venere Salon and Spa. Sponsored by L’Oréal Professionnel, Pash, Michael Communications Media Group and Z103.5, the show donated proceeds to the Hospital for Sick Children Foundation.

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september 08< salon

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Milano annual ExchangE Milano Software, sponsor of the 2009 Contessa Business Excellence Award, held its annual Exchange on June 8 and 9 in Toronto. Over 160 clients from across Canada and the U.S. came for the two-day affair, which offered educational sessions on making the most of your software program.

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The Ontario Council of Technology Education (OCTE), an organization of teachers of technology-related subjects in Ontario, held its annual conference at Nottawasaga resort north of Toronto May 8 to 10. Highlights included demonstrations by Pivot Point Canada, Redken, NP Group, BSG, Matrix, Dannyco and the Aveda Institute. During the event, Grazina Connell from NP Group presented the Ontario Cosmetology Teacher of the Year Award to Lorraine Coughlin of Timothy Eaton Business and Technical Institute.

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97

21:

LAST WORD

If the Shoe Fits John Steinberg talks fashion versus comfort

98

salon > september 08

their shoes. For the past few years I’ve opted for casual slip-on shoes for their comfort quotient, but of course they still have to be fashionable.

Standing Comfort, an American shoe company that sells sensible but unappealing footwear online, has the following to say about the importance of being well shod when standing for long hours:

• Properly designed footwear keeps your muscles in balance and helps strengthen the ligaments in your feet, legs and back

• With good support for your feet, you tire less easily • Stable footwear prevents the ankles from rotating in or out, •

keeping the body aligned and comfortable A healthy, aligned body promotes a healthy, happy attitude

Fortunately, there’s another way to take the strain off your feet and other body parts. At the beginning of this decade I started noticing younger hairdressers sitting on stools to cut hair. This surprised me, since I was raised on the tradition of the masterful hairdresser who stands above the client. But being the sort of chap who believes in taking a lesson from the young, I decided to try it myself.

While I still prefer standing up for excessive layering and for cutting long hair (where I also ask the client to stand so I’m working on proportion at a good eye level) I must say that I strongly recommend being seated to cut a bob, or the classic men's scissorsover-comb short back and sides It’s all about eye-level, allowing for greater precision—not to mention avoiding chronic body pain later on in life and still wearing shoes built for fashion. S John Steinberg is at John Steinberg and Associates in Toronto. He is currently celebrating 49 years in the beauty business. Check out www.johnsteinbergthelectures.com.

w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

JUPITERIMAGES

W

hat hairdresser doesn’t love shoes? As a willing slave to fashion, I have certainly had my fair share of the cobbler’s last (the form on which a shoe is constructed).

In London in the early 1960s I wore winklepickers, a style with a very long sharp-pointed toe, worn in Britain by male and female rock ’n’ roll types. The name “winklepickers” came about because in England a sharp pointed object was used to pick a winkle, a kind of small sea snail, out of its shell so you could eat it. (And we thought the French were weird for eating land snails! But I digress…) The stylists I worked with and admired took this fashion very seriously, going to a special shoemaker to have their winklepickers made to measure, with extended points. Alas, a lowly assistant, I had to make do with ordinary shop-bought ones.

During the mid-1970s, when glam rock reigned supreme, I stood for eight to 10 hours a day cutting hair in my platform shoes.

They say you have to suffer to be beautiful, but this was just plain ridiculous. The end of every workday yielded aching legs, shoulders and back.

You’d think I’d know better, since as a child I have a clear memory of being taken to a Bata shoe shop in Hendon, northwest London, to buy shoes that fit me properly. We went to that particular shop because it had a large box-like X-ray machine to put your feet into, to see exactly how your toes fit inside the shoes you’d tried on. Years later, in 1995, when I attended the opening of Toronto’s wonderful Bata Shoe Museum (the only shoe museum in North America), I told Mr. Bata of my childhood experience. “That was one of the last shops that had that,” he replied. Pity.

You never truly know someone until you have walked a mile in their shoes. I think this old saying should be adapted for hairdressers: You never truly know someone until you have stood for hours in

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