Salon Magazine, September 2010

Page 1

l salon magazine

the business of beauty and style

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

Hair, colour, nails, backstage access and more!

the style

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report september 10 $5 salon52.ca

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REVOL

ARE YOU PART OF THE HAIRCOLOUR RE “I’ve been in this industry for over 25 years and INOA is the first haircolour that truly drives traffic! We have been able to attract new clients by offering them an incredible product. To encourage our existing clients to try INOA risk free, we offer them their first INOA haircolour at our regular price. They love the experience so much that they are pleased to pay the extra to achieve the amazing colour results only attainable with INOA!” Shelley Lester with L’Oréal Professionnel

since 1992 Scissorworks & Co, Calgary, AB “With INOA, the cosmetic results of the hair are incredible! But most importantly, it perfectly covers grey hair, even up to 100%. When my clients return, their haircolour has not faded or washed out. I’m not using anything else but INOA–it’s fabulous!”

Larry Gray with L’Oréal Professionnel since 1990 Suki’s, Vancouver, BC “I love INOA’s intense, but natural-looking, pigmentation! INOA preservation of the hair’s natural state, great longevity of colour, and incredible softness. I love working with INOA.”

Jacques Tétreault with L’Oréal Professionnel since 2002 Création Coiffure, Boucherville, QC

JOIN THE INOA REVOLUTION TODAY! Call your L’Oréal Professionnel business consultant or visit www.inoa.ca.

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OLUTIONARIES

R REVOLUTION YET?

“L’Oréal Professionnel’s marketing efforts for INOA have really had an impact in our salon. There’s simply no need for us to convince our clients to switch to INOA, even if the service is slightly more expensive. Often, the client is asking for INOA. I am proud to offer my clients the professional difference!”

Pierre Henright with L’Oréal Professionnel since March 2010 Zeut Coiffure, Hull, QC “INOA found its way into our hairdressers’ hearts. Our team is excited about this innovative, odourless haircolour. Our hairdressers are passionate about INOA and you can see the enthusiasm in their eyes! A great service and a wonderful product have made INOA a success in our salon!”

Karine & Nathalie Morin with L’Oréal Professionnel since 2008 Le Salon Sugar, Blainville & Laval, QC “With INOA, L’Oréal Professionnel is putting our salon front and centre in the eyes of consumers. You don’t know how many new clients have called us asking for INOA. Not only do these clients love the INOA concept, but they are so satisfied with the result that we are certain that they will never use their old haircolour again! INOA is growing my business and securing a loyal clientele!”

Réjean Roy & Marie-France Vigneault with L’Oréal Professionnel since March 2010 Confidence Centre De Beauté, Sherbrooke, QC

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Š 2010 Wella Canada Inc., Mississauga, ON. L5R 3M3 1-800-267-1962 All Rights Reserved.

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LEGENDARY STYLING IN A RE-SHAPEABLE FORM Multi-blend hold bends any movement into shape with long-lasting hold and humidity protection all in one

DEMAND IT FOR YOUR CLIENTS

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UNVEILING...

THE FIRST IRON THAT

RECONSTRUC AS YOU STYLE

For the first time, you don’t have to choose between the style you want and the healthy hair you deserve. By infusing hair with NEW ReconstRx VaporFuel, the ReconstRx VaporIron delivers all the healthy benefits of the World’s #1 Hair Reconstructor as you style, leaving hair unbelievably shiny, smooth and healthy.

PROVEN TO REPAIR & PROTECT HAIR AS YOU STYLE Actual images of hair after styling with:

vs. Leading Professional Flat Iron

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UCTS

©2010 Joico® Laboratories, a division of Piidea Canada Ltd., Pointe-Claire, QC H9R 5N3

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WWW.JOICO.COM

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*bAsEd on A quArtEr-sizE dosE, 10.1 oz. bottLE, And $29.50 sALon rEtAiL PricE.

1-877-pureology

pureology.com

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Concentrated formulas shampoos up to

80

*

“pureology protects my guest’s investment. not only do i feel confident in knowing the performance of pureology will compliment and protect my color work, i love knowing that the investment my guests make in purchasing pureology is protected by knowing how long a bottle will last. it’s a win win for both of us!” - Wendy Belanger, Creative Director of Influence Salon, Calgary ANTIFADE COMPLEX . 100% VEGAN INGREDIENTS . ORGANIC BOTANICALS . ZERO SULFATE

OTHER LEADING SHAMPOO

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PS

IE

DE M

I C R O CA

MICRO CA

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ES

S TECHNO ULE LO PS

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This hair care features the Microcapsules Technology, a revolutionary system that provides your hair with precisely the nutrients it needs—no more, no less. As the hair is dried, either naturally or with a hair dryer, the microcapsules disintegrate and release a dosed selection of essential nutrients. Thanks to Alcove’s customized revitalization, hydration and protection process, the result is beautiful, soft and healthier hair.

T E C HNOL O

G

300 ML/9 FL OZ

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Customized nutrition for your hair

“Alcove” immediately calls to mind intimacy, harmony and wellbeing. It represents a place where we feel comfortable and protected. These are the same characteristics that inspired Oligo Professionnel in its creation of an innovative hair protection concept based on microencapsulation technology. An alcove is often rounded, its curves evoking femininity. And like such a haven, Alcove is a line of trusted products, that offers infinitely enriching benefits.

A single product line that meets every need.

3 SHAMPOOS AND 3 CONDITIONERS: DAILY

Formulated with Protection Microcapsules

HYDRATING

Formulated with Hydrating Microcapsules

REPAIR

Formulated with Repair Microcapsules

ALCOVE SHAMPOOS ARE SULFATE FREE, SALT FREE AND PARABEN FREE. Rich lather cleans hair thoroughly; Helps colour last longer; Gentle natural formula promotes healthier hair and scalp. PROFESSIONNEL

www.oligoprofessionnel.com PROFESSIONNEL

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great hair. bad skin? Sure, your clients always leave your salon with incredible hair. Can you say the same about their skin? If your skin care business is out of control, or if you’re thinking of expanding into skin care, Dermalogica will help. For over 25 years, we’ve helped the world’s top salons become truly full service, dramatically increasing client satisfaction and boosting profits. A marriage made in heaven? Your clients – and your bottom line – we think so. Receive our free Guide to Skin Care Success, plus a gift of our most popular products, by calling 1.888.618.1886 or visiting dermalogica.ca/tradegift and quoting this code: salonmag

The skin care brand that stylists can’t live without! follow us on twitter at: twitter.com/DermalogicaCDN find us on facebook at: facebook.com/Dermalogica

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See Sheer, luminous, unbelievably brilliant color. Feel Soft, silky, unbelievably conditioned hair and scalp. Experience An unbelievably delicious tropical vanilla fragrance.

Let us i.Luminate you at ISOhair.com. Š2010 Innovative Styling Options, Inc., a division of Piidea Canada Ltd., Pointe-Claire, QC H9R 5N3 HAIR AND COLOR: Addam Moreno and Darby Shields PHOTO: Kevin Rolly

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1-800-267-4676

2/2/10 11:49:17 AM


SALON

GREENT GREE T DO

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YO

C UR

LE

AN

CL

IP

N PI

GS

!

3

GO DIGITAL! Going paperless for receipts, gift cer tificates and appointment cards is a great way to reduce waste. Statistics have shown that paper usage has increased by 40% in recent years. So, now it‘s even more impor tant to go online and off paper!

1

{

CLIPPINGS Did you know leftover hair clipup crude oil spills? For more information on how you can get involved visit matteroftrust.org

2

95% ESSENSIT Y‘S complete range of Care & Styling products contain up to 95% naturally derived ingredients including Aloe Vera, Gogi Berr y and Eucalyptus. Offer your clients superb per formance —powered by nature. how ti o n o n in fo r m a , v is it n lo a F o r m o re s ur re e n y o g n a c u yo n s .c a c le s a lo g re e n c ir

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}

KEEP AIR CONDITIONERS AT 26.5 °C

pings can be used to help clean

4

KEEP YOUR COOL To conser ve energy, keep air conditioners at 26.5ºC even in the summer months, and keep those doors closed to avoid cooling off the street!

8/4/10 3:00:48 PM

5


NTIPS TIPS PS

CONSUMERS ARE DEMANDING IT, SALONS ARE EMBRACING IT,

AND NATURE IS INSPIRING IT! THERE IS AN UNMISTAK ABLE SHIFT TOWARDS GREEN HAPPENING IN SALONS ACROSS CANADA. HERE ARE JUST A FEW WAYS THAT YOU CAN GREEN

YOUR SALON AND BE A PART

OF THE MOVEMENT! WRITTEN BY CHRISTINA WATTS

{ } REDUCE THE AMOUNT OF WATER YOU CONSUME BY 50-70%.

6

WATER

Low flow showerheads and taps can reduce the amount of water you consume by around 50-70%. Look into them to save money

TI

C INGR

RG

7

E

ENCES

HE

O

DI

S

to biodegrade!

d

R

PU YNT T RES

plastics and foils that can take 400 years

er

NTA I N COE DUCED S

ENTS

salon for recycling colour tubes, papers,

AN IC

SS

Set up labeled bins throughout the •

5

RECYCLING

E

ESSENSIT Y Clients are looking for more natural hair products but are not willing to compromise on per formance. ESSENSIT Y answers this demand as all colour products are free from ammonia, fragrance, silicones, paraffin/mineral oils and parabens. Discover the hair colour revolution from ESSENSIT Y and offer your clients 100% per formance with 0% compromise.

and the environment.

FOR MOR E I N FO ON ES S E N S IT Y CON ACT 1- 800 - 463 - 3081 OR V I S IT SCHWA R Z KOPF- PROFES S ION A L .CA

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74

Vivienne Mackinder

september.10

From long and tousled locks to the more structured side part and chignon, this season is all about texture and volume

54

HITTING THE NAIL

64

Redken celebrates 50 years of breakthrough education and innovation

shape shifter

When Sebastian’s iconic hairspray turns 25, it’s reason to celebrate!

66

man on a mission

56

BACKSTAGE PASS

72

hair collections

60

READY-TO-WEAR

20

Top hairstylists divulge what goes on behind-thescenes at fashion week and what it takes to thrive as a session stylist

the business of beauty and style

fEatures 62 HAPPY HALF CENTURY!

From Ruffian’s reverse half-moon mani to the continued dominance of Minx overlays, nails are taking centre stage as a fashion statement. Use new shades to create custom styles for your trendiest clients

magazine

John Paul DeJoria shares his views on success and philanthropy after 30 years of stardom

Hair, colour, nails, backstage access and more!

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

49 the style report 50 FALL SPEAKS VOLUMES

l salon the style

report september 10 $5 salon52.ca

Hair: Joey Scandizzo, Rokk Ebony Salon, Melbourne, Australia Colour: Marie Uva Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Styling: Letitia Dare Photo: Andrew O’Toole

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Looks from Schwarzkopf Professional, Vivienne Mackinder, Matrix, Damien Carney and Joey Scandizzo

Clip this page of wearable fashion show style for handy chairside inspiration

salon > september 10

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“Fabulous Color is Always in Style.”

LITTLE BROWN DRESS

The Fall Collection

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718.726.5000

SEW PSYCHED

MERINO COOL

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CONTAINS NO FORMALDEHYDE, DBP OR TOLUENE

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44

SHELF LIFE Six must-have products your clients will love

50

Fall Hair Trends

REGULARS 24 EDITOR’S LETTER 26 PUBLISHER’S NOTE 28 SALON52.CA This month on salon52.ca

33

72

Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks

68

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70

COLOUR

84

CONTESSA GALLERY

86

NAILS

88

ESTHETICS

90

INTERIORS

92 95

SCOOP

106

LAST WORD

HAIRLINES Fulfill your clients’ need for fashionably smooth locks with these new products p.33; Time to buy your Contessa tickets p.34; The latest products to give your client’s hair hydration p.34; New formulations and packaging: look for your favourites to be re-launched this fall p.36; Eufora launches a line of men’s hair and skin care p.36; New dry products make style longer-lasting p.36; Bringing you the latest crop of hair competition winners and finalists p.38; Kadori Hair introduces a line of stylish gear p.40; Kaaral makes two new additions to its Pink Up line p.40; Bain de Terre provides a new option for fine, coloured hair p.40; Tips on retailing high-end products p.42; Shelf Life offers up six new products your clients will love p.44

PROFILE

Renowned celebrity and session stylist Oribe tells all

This season’s top three hair colour trends + the latest launches

Rasa Jurenas chats about her C21 Master Colourist collection

Keep your regular mani-pedi clients coming back with fresh ideas, new treatments and tons of service

A look at the latest skin-care innovations that cater to all

The comforts of home with a flair for French provincial sets the tone for fashionable coifs at Toronto’s Oskar on Scollard

EVENTS Coverage of Cosmoprof, Redken’s ONEXONE cut-a-thons and more

by John Steinberg

salon52.ca

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2010 2001 198 6

2006

19 9 9

WHEN 5 MINUTES CAN TURN BACK THE CLOCK TO A YOUNGER YOU … ...THAT‘S REAL

COLOUR PERFECTION. MEN ReSHADE – THE MOST MASCULINE WAY TO REDUCE GREY. Artfully and discreetly blend away grey hair in just 5 minutes with Men ReShade, the breakthrough haircolour featuring Hybrid Foam Technology. Guaranteed natural-looking, cool-tone results with no visible re-growth! It’s as quick and easy as shampooing! GOLDWELL that enables stylists to achieve absolute colour perfection and build their salon business. For more information please contact your GOLDWELL Sales Consultant or call 1-800-387-3873.

DEDIC AT ED TO C OLOUR P ERF ECT ION.

www.goldwell-northamerica.com

Men ReShade is another tool by

For availability of Goldwell Haircare Products across Canada call KPSS Canada Ltd. Client Services: 1-877-670-6767

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EDITOR’S LETTER

TREND RELEASE Essential Looks 2:2010 Sunday, October 24th, 2010 Doors Open: 6:30PM. Essential Looks 2:2010 begins at 7:00PM Hair Stylist Competition to follow

2 HAIR STYLIST COMPETITIONS:

Kool Haus, 132 Queens Quay East, Toronto

Cocktails DJ spinning a beat

rior to becoming a magazine editor, I worked as a fashion model for several years and had the opportunity to be involved in Toronto Fashion Week on a few occasions. My favourite part of this experience was not the actual runway shows, but the frenzy of events that took place backstage. After all, this is where the real excitement happens! I would be in awe of the hairstylists, makeup artists and designers who rushed around pinning hair, touching up lip gloss or altering gowns right up until show time in order to ensure their creative vision was perfect. This year, I attended Fashion Week as a spectator for the first time and, naturally, the best part of seeing the shows was scoping out the latest hair trends for fall. I was amazed at the versatility of style, texture and colours that are reinvented season after season. I especially took note of how well the hair worked in sync with the clothing. After talking to several hairstylists for this issue, I learned that understanding fashion and editorial hairstyling is truly a craft. We rounded up a few veteran fashion show hairstylists to bring you a firsthand glimpse at what it’s like to work backstage, while still balancing life in the salon on p. 56. These are two very different worlds indeed! The editors here at Salon Magazine spent hours poring over dozens of runway shots for our Style Report on p. 50, and it certainly got us talking about how looks have changed and then come back again over the years. If there is one thing we all agree on—hair is one fashion accessory that will never go out of style!

New Talent & Professional

Event is open to all stylists and general public. Must be 16 years or older to attend. If you have any questions please contact your Schwarzkopf Sales Representative or Schwarzkopf Professional at 905.366.8894 All ticket holders will receive a swag bag of products at the door. No refunds allowed.

In partnership with:

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©Essential Looks 2: 2010

Emily Gravelle Editor

PHOTO BABAK, HAIR AND MAKEUP CHERYL GUSHUE

P

Keeping Up Appearances

Media Partners:

salon52.ca

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A MESSAGE FROM CND TO OUR CUSTOMERS We have been listening, and we know that you and your clients love Shellac™, but now that you’re hooked, you can’t find any, and you’re not happy. We deeply regret and apologize for this situation and the inconvenience it has caused you. Let us explain how this happened: • In our 30-year history, we’ve introduced many blockbuster products. The response to them was nowhere near the response to Shellac. • Initial production – twice our largest previous product launch – was gone in three weeks. We realized we had created an industry-changing product innovation but we never anticipated such immediate, overwhelming demand. We quickly understood that this global phenomenon was creating an urgent problem for you and your clients. Your needs are our top concern, and right now, priority #1 is to get you back in business with Shellac. We have already begun to take these actions: • Drastically increasing production • Air shipping lamps from our overseas factory to our distribution center • Simplifying packaging to speed up production time • Focusing on fulfilling current demand before scheduling any new launches. We greatly appreciate your business and thank you for your continued patience and loyalty. With gratitude, John Heffner

President & CEO

Jan Arnold Co-founder & Style Director

760.599.2900 800.833.NAIL cnd.com cnd.com/shellacSM ©2009Nail Creative Nail Design, Inc. ©2010 Creative Design, Inc.

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 19 issue 11

s a lo n 5 2 . ca

Editor

Emily Gravelle > 416.869.3131 ext.102 | emily@beautynet.com group ART DIRECTor

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com editor-in-chief (FRENCH)

Yasmin Grothé > 514.553.4404 | yasmin@beautynet.com managing Editor

Melissa Brazier > 416.869.3131 ext.119 | melissa@beautynet.com associate editor

Anupa Mistry > 416.869.3131 ext.112 | anupa@beautynet.com designer

Elizabeth DiSilvestre > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | elizabeth@beautynet.com

senior staff writer

Pam Fulford

What’s Fashionable?

copy Editor

Allan Britnell Contributors

John Steinberg, Chris Tsintziras, Colette Wright

I

publisher/PRESIDENT

Laura Dunphy Publisher

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com Director of Sales & Business Development

Jade Bateman > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | jade@beautynet.com U.S.A. SALES REPRESENTATIVE

Samantha Anobile > 310.926.9288 | samanthaanobile1@gmail.com Sales Associate

Alice Ardal > 416.869.3131 ext. 220 | alice@beautynet.com production manager

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com operations manager

Karren Han > 416.869.3131 ext. 118 | karren@beautynet.com circulation manager

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca Finance

Aylin Aykul > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | accountant@beautynet.com BUSINESS ADMINISTRATOR

Candice Besselaar > 416.869.3131 ext.108 | candice@beautynet.com cHAIRMAN

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com vice-president & West coast editor

Greg Robins > 604.561.4971 | greg@beautynet.com

Subscription rates For Canada 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 HST included 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 HST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location for US 1 year (8 issues) $50 USD a ddr ess c ha n ge s Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca

Fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

PO Box 357, Beeton, ON L0G 1A0 Canada

Phone: 905.729.1288

S AL ON M AG AZ IN E 365 Bloor St. E. Suite 1902 Toronto, ON, M4W 3L4

T. 416.869.3131 | F. 416.869.3008

641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.) Hair Bill Rowley Photo BABAK

recently got a new iPad and upon delivery all of our staff hovered around it “ohhing” and “ahhing” like it was a newborn baby. I can’t help but wonder how the launch of this new technology will impact the salon world? That same week, I was speaking with Joseph Gossen from Star Bédard in Montreal, who razzed me for having a Blackberry instead of an iPhone saying, “I thought you were cool!” I laughed … but at the same time I thought, is he right? iPhones and (predictably) iPads are the most fashionable accessories today. Not just in terms of being trendy, they carry a lot of caché. They function as a delivery tool for the ultimate phenomena—social media like Facebook, Twitter and blogging. It’s changing behavior and communications, and is a major influencer of consumer purchases. But, actually, it’s all about interactivity. And, that’s where the salon industry comes in. We all know the main driver of clientele is word of mouth and now we have the ultimate tool! Bryan Gaum a friend of salon52 on Facebook adds, “An iPad is a great tool for salons, especially those who have salon software programs that run on a Mac platform (a.k.a. salon transcripts). It’s also great for teaching clients how to book online, eliminating clutter from magazines and it’s an amazing portable visual for showing clients styles.” Here are a few other market trends we’re seeing picking up speed. Express services are an area that continues to grow. Nail bars with fast gel services, half hour blow-out services, 10-minute colour and express facials. Many clients want quick services and don’t want to be tied up in a salon all afternoon. On the flip side is the boutique experience. I feel clients will spend more time and money, however, they want a personalized service and an “experience” when they visit a salon. It’s somewhat of a high and low concept; the consumer has a Louis Vuitton bag alongside a cheapy H&M skirt. You can see the yin and yang of today’s trends—the speed of Facebook for interactivity versus a day at the spa. Consumers want both. Check out the salon52 Facebook page and share your thoughts with me.

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, PO Box 357, Beeton, ON, L0G 1A0 Canada

National Magazine Awards Gold

Silver

2008 2003 2002 1998 1995

2009 2003 2001 1997 1996

Top Five

2009 2008 2002/2001 2000/1999 1996

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

Printed on recyclable p

This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

printed in cana d a

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

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north american

EXPERIENCE LIVE THE NATIONAL TREND VISION AWARD 2010 CELEBRATE CANADIAN TALENT AND GET INSPIRED BY TOP INTERNATIONAL ARTISTS!

FEATURING NICK ARROJO

Wella International Top Stylist and 2 time Winner of Stylist Choice Award Platform/Educator of the Year Special Appearances: • Fabio Sementilli – North American Creative Director • Sebastian Core Team – “Celebrating Shaper 25th Anniversary” • Nioxin Design Team • The Doves

NEW DATE: October 4th, 2010 LOCATION: Musik Nightclub, Toronto WINNERS WILL COMPETE IN PARIS, FRANCE

FOR TICKET INFORMATION, CALL 1-800-267-1962

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salon52.ca what’s on

september 10

collections > SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL ESSENTIAL LOOKS, MODERN TOUCH > VIVIENNE MACKINDER - CUBISM > MATRIX - PURE ALERT > JOEY SCANDIZZO - AUSTRALIAN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR FINALIST COLLECTION

contessas! Come and witness the coronation of Canada’s top hairstylists at the 22nd Canadian Hairstylist of the Year awards!

FOR FULL COLLECTION CREDITS SEE PG 72. PHOTOS: STEVE EMMETT

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, ESSENTIAL LOOKS, MODERN TIMES.

collections > news+events > contessas > features > videos > blog > contests + more

FASHION MEETS FUNCTION Looking to amp up your toolbox? Enter for a chance to win a high-performance straightener with a stylish graphic pattern courtesy of Kadori Hair. Contest runs on salon52.ca from Aug. 13 to Sept. 10, 2010.

On Sunday, Nov. 14, beauty professionals from across the country will walk the red carpet at Contessa 22, hosted at the Sheraton Centre Hotel in Toronto. Tickets go on sale Sept. 7. To purchase, call 416.869.3131 ext. 108 or email contessas@beautynet.com

s52 blog Check out salon52.ca/blog for the latest news and photos from guest blogger Fabio Sementilli, and hair gossip, celebrity style, photos and the lowdown on salon politics. 28

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talk to us!

WE WANT TO HEAR WHAT YOU HAVE TO SAY!

Straight to your inbox! See the latest collections, find out about our newest contests and giveaways, and keep up with beauty news by signing up for our FREE weekly e-newsletter! Go to salon52.ca/subscribe and sign-up today. salon52.ca

8/5/10 1:44:29 PM


Why is Matrix the number 1 professional brand in Canadian salons? Matrix was created by a hairdresser for hairdressers. We endeavour each day to maintain the values of our founder, Arnie Miller, which are: having close ties with salons and inspiring education. We also offer performing products at accessible prices. In the next few pages, you will discover the true faces behind Matrix. These individuals share with you a profound love for the industry and its creativity. It is an honor to belong to this big family. Your passion and talent inspire me each and every day. Sincerely,

Vincent Lemieux General Manager Matrix Canada

“ I look for the day when every hairdresser will be able to proudly say; ‘I’m a hairdresser’ ” ARNIE MILLER Founder of Matrix

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04/08/10 12:10PM PM 8/4/10 3:02:09


BACKSTAGE WITH MATRIX SALES TEAM

From left to right: Sylvia Koza, Allison O’Dowd, Veronique Lacerte, Andrey Ognev, Meena Zurmati, Amber Fraser and Joanne Plut

As the Matrix Sales team, we spend each day conveying our passion and excitement for our brand to salons and stylists across Canada. With innovative product launches and exciting promotions, Matrix is the most accessible and fun salon brand. Matrix has enabled us to grow personally and professionally, and we are truly thankful for that opportunity! We get to travel from British Columbia to Newfoundland and always meet passionate members of our Matrix community who truly share our values and love for the brand.

MATRIX IN EDMONTON MATRIX EDUCATION TEAM

“Think, believe, dream, dare” this is what Matrix has empowered us to do as professionals in this industry. Through education, we have gained the knowledge and passion to bring salon professionals to a new dimension and help bring their skills and creativity to the next level. We want to move the people who move the product. From left to right: V. Natalia Pedraza, Nancy Asselin, Nancy Picard, Roch Lemay, Sandra MacKenzie, Lana Nicholson and Shelley Arsenault

Matrix is #1, the greatest of all North American hair care brands and rising superstar around the globe. It has inspired me and countless others to think, dream, believe and most of all dare. I am proud to be a part of the culture that recognised hairdresser’s powerful relationships with people and the amazing work they do in salons every day. Matrix encourages hairdressers to stand up and say “I cosmetically and psychologically transform self images and destinies of my fellow human beings, I am a hairdresser”. Wow what an amazing brand, Matrix is not simply satisfied with moving product but rather moving the people that move the product. This is evident each time the Matrix team shares their talent and passion at a show or in a class. Thank you Arnie, Dr. Lew, and every member of the Matrix family. Graham Kenny - International Beauty Services Manager (Edmonton, Alberta) Sales Team from left to right: Stella Chamberlain, Marilyn Cormier, Debrah Boerefyn, Graham Kenny, Shellie Lang and Rachel Cornish.

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Mag-Ju


H MATRIX IN THE MARITIMES

From left to right: Nikki Gidney Heidi Kenney - Senior Colorist Artistic Educator

Matrix was created by Arnie Miller to offer quality and affordable products. My philosophy: loyalty, dedication and support, coupled by an AMAZING team of Matrix Educators. Imagine a team so focused on your growth as a stylist. Our educators are ready, trained and available to help you learn, grow and succeed in your industry! My local Matrix educator, Heidi Kenney, has been with me since day one. Her success is my success. Our promise is to support our Matrix Stylists - BE ALL THAT YOU CAN BE! We also have Club Matrix, designed to give our salons points for every dollar they spend; giving back to support stylist & salon business development. I am so proud to represent Matrix, the number ONE line in Canada! Nikki Gidney - District Sales Consultant (Maritime Beauty Supply)

MATRIX IN QUEBEC

MATRIX IN ONTARIO

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12:10 PM

“I was introduced to Matrix approximately 6 years ago. I soon realized Matrix is a brand I can relate to. It has enhanced my lifestyle with fun, excitement, and professionalism. I have traveled the world and established new friendships because of the Matrix products. I am passionate about this great brand and I feel proud to be part of the Matrix team. Thank you Matrix! Ralph Balestra - District Sales Consultant Beauty Systems Group (Mississauga & Etobicoke) From left to right: Cheri Medica - Director of Marca College Dixie Campus Ralph Balestra

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From left to right: Ralph Balestra Jerry Rinaldi - Owner of Salon Crave Dino Nosella - Owner of Salon Crave

I have been working with Matrix since 1986. They have great products and offer performing results. If you compare quality versus price, in my opinion they are the best in the market. I am passionate and loyal to Matrix, because they offer technical support, especially in color; we work as a team and the individuals at Matrix are great, dedicated people to work with. Gaetan Bourdon - Owner of Star Bédard From left to right: France and Gaetan Bourdon Owners of Star Bédard

04/08/10 12:11PM PM 8/4/10 3:02:31


Imagine… A brand committed to your success. A full range of salon-only, professional products and services. A global network empowering you with pride, confidence, optimism and energy. IMAGINE 100% SUCCESS. ACHIEVE YOUR DREAMS.

WHAT DO MATRIX CONSUMERS HAVE TO SAY: My hair is naturally super curly and dry, so for the past 6 months that I’ve been using Matrix Essentials Curl.life. I see a big difference with the manageability of my hair. When I straighten my hair I like to use the Biolage Thermal Active cream, it makes my hair soft and protects it from the heat of the styling tools. Most of the salons I have tried have been using Matrix products. Everytime, I’ve been satisfied with my cut, color and overall experience. When a salon uses Matrix, it reassures me that I will get great results! Julie Boisvert Montreal, Quebec

I was first introduced to Matrix products by a friend, she recommended I use Biolage Volumathérapie. My hair is limp so I like to use products that give my hair fullness and lift. I love using the Volumizing Shampoo and Mousse because it leaves my hair feeling fresh, full and soft. Everytime I go to the salon I always pick up a bottle of my favorite Biolage shampoo! It’s so affordable and always gives amazing results! Maricela Sorto Mississauga, Ontario

JOIN OUR

CLUB MATRIX

REWARDS PROGRAM TODAY!

Earn points for your purchases and exchange them for exclusive rewards.

IMAGINE ALL YOU CAN BE Contact your local MATRIX distributor: Beauté Star Bédard Québec 1-800-361-1978 (Montréal) 1-800-463-2824 (Québec City) Beauty Systems Group Cosmo Prof British Columbia Southern Alberta Saskatchewan Manitoba Ontario 1-888-241-3330

East Coast Beauty Newfoundland 1-800-563-1900 International Beauty Services Northern Alberta 1-780-454-3388 Maritime Beauty Supply Nova Scotia New Brunswick Prince Edward Island 902-429-8510

Questions? Call us toll-free at 1-888-422-6879. Visit us online at matrix.com

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04/08/10 12:11PM PM 8/4/10 3:02:51


hairlines

news

Straight Talk hair: tigi international creative team anthony mascolo, nick irwin & akos bodi, makeup: jose bass & amy barrington, styling: jiv d, photo: kristin vicari

Fulfill clients’ need for fashionably smooth locks this fall with these new products

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ondon designer Christopher Kane has partnered with Tigi for the Catwalk Sleek Mystique Straight collection. Inspired by the idea that straight hair never goes out of style, the collection features the Prep it, Work It, Perfect It building system for long-lasting results. The six-product line includes Glossing Shampoo, Calming Conditioner, Fast Fixx Style Prep leave-in conditioner, Blow Out Balm, Haute Iron Spray, and Look-Lock Hairspray, all infused with fragrances like dragon fruit, lychees, jasmine and spices. The keratin craze also continues with Rusk’s newest addition to its Deepshine marine mineral-enriched products. Deepshine Smooth Keratin Care, which contains a shampoo, conditioner and treatment, is formulated

with natural keratin, vitamins and marine botanicals to restore flexibility, lock in moisture and provide thermal protection—perfect for clients who have had chemical or colour treatments. Biáge Silkening Technologies Pro Collagen Rx is a new professional product to help clients achieve silky smooth hair. An alternative to other keratin-based treatments designed to achieve pin-straight results, Silkening Technologies uses a special gel blend of keratin and collagen—instead of heavy silicone-based emollients—making it easy to apply, allowing for superior penetration of a higher concentration of active ingredients, and reducing post-application blow drying and flat ironing time.

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8/5/10 1:47:40 PM


hairlines

news

Contessa Celebrates Hair Royalty

O

Get Wet

The latest crop of products to hydrate clients with dry, damaged, dull hair

Goldwell Colorglow [iq] Regenerative Hairmasques These intense treatments contain three active ingredients—farmin, lipids and argan oil—to restore hair’s natural water repellent property and give colour back its definition, depth and radiance. Info: goldwell-northamerica.com

Shu Uemura Essence Absolue The key ingredient in this nourishing treatment for dry hair is camellia oil, which is sourced from the camellia japonica, a centenarian tree, which withstands even the harshest snowfalls. A smoothing emollient, one drop of this leave-in oil detangles and controls frizz and gives intense nutrition resulting in silky, shiny hair. Info: shuuemuraartofhair.com

Pureology Hydrate Light and HydraWhip Condition For clients with coloured, dry hair that is on the finer side, these two lightweight options provide added moisture without letting hair fall flat. These products are both formulated with Advanced Hydrating MicroEmulsion Technology, jojoba and shea butters, sage and rosemary, which will deeply moisturize dry hair to restore shine and strength. Info: pureology.com

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Teknia by Lakmé Designed for all types of dry hair, this new range has got your clients covered with 11 different product families. With everything from natural-based shampoos, conditioners and treatments, this line hydrates according to the characteristics of each specific hair type. In addition, to meet the needs of fiery haired colour clients, Lakmé is introducing Ultra Red and Ultra Copper. Info: lakme.com

Davines Authentic Nourishing Oil Not only is this new product a 99 per cent organic formulation, but it’s versatile and can be used on the hair, face and body. Carthame oil provides protection against environmental damage and a blend of natural essential oils offers aroma therapeutic benefits. Clients can apply this product to the ends of hair for added hydration, smooth onto skin for a nourishing glow or massage into hands to soften cuticles. Info: davines.com

top photo: contessa 21, Diana Dagher, Capucci Salon & Spa, Toronto, Makeup: Amalie Russel, Photo: Renata Kaveh

n Sunday Nov. 14, 2010, join Salon Magazine for the Contessas, the most glamorous beauty gala in Canada! This red carpet event, already in its 22 nd year, will go live at the Sheraton Centre Hotel in Toronto (123 Queen Street West). Tickets go on sale Sept. 7. This year’s theme is Queens, so dress regally to impress! For tickets, call 416.869.3131 ext. 108 or email contessas@beautynet.com

salon52.ca

8/5/10 1:49:31 PM


OPI FALL/WINTER 2010 COLOR CHART

EDITION C (OPI ITEM NO. DC H03)

EDITION A (OPI ITEM NO. DC H01)

EDITION COF (OPI ITEM NO. DC H08) LACQUERS FROM TOP TO BOTTOM:

Color So Hot It Berns, Just a Little Rösti at This, From A to Z-urich, Glitzerland, I’m Suzi & I’m a Chocoholic, Diva of Geneva, The Color to Watch, Lucerne-tainly Look Marvelous, Yodel Me on My Cell, Ski Teal We Drop, Cuckoo for this Color, William Tell Me About OPI

If color chart has been removed, contact your Authorized OPI Distributor to receive yours. Nail Lacquers feature OPI’s exclusive ProWide™ Brush (Patent Pending). CONTAINS NO DBP, TOLUENE, OR FORMALDEHYDE Call 800.341.9999 ©2010 OPI Products Inc.

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8/4/10 3:10:29 PM


hairlines

news

Dry Spell

Fresh Take

It’s official—dry shampoos and conditioners are all the rage

New formulations and packaging: look for your favourites re-launched this fall

Reflecting the lightness and lift carried in its Voluma line of tressboosters, Matrix has repackaged the products with soft aqua colours making them easier for clients to find and select their favourites, each visit. Info: matrix.com L’Oréal Professionnel is renewing its Vitamino Color line of hue-preserving products and adding the new Delicate Care SKU, which gently cleanses hair with colour that is prone to fading. Also relaunching and adding to its line-up is LP’s stylesavvy tecni.art line of products. Each tool in the group is now colour-coded according to its specific function—fix, volume, liss, gloss and curl. New to the volume category are the Root Lift Spray-Mousse and Volume Inflator spray. Metallic Gloss wax and Crystal Gloss shine-spray will help you boost radiance. Info: lorealprofessionnel.ca

Male Bonding Offering male clients the total package, the new Eufora for Men line features eco hair, scalp and skin care products that are free of petrolatum, sulphates, parabens and artificial colorants and fragrances. The star lineup includes Exceptional Shave, Complete Shampoo, Revitalizing Treatment, Thickening Elixir, Defining Wax, Texture Putty and Grooming Cream. In addition to this launch, Eufora has also introduced a new Men’s Team that features a select group of highcalibre educators chosen to lead seminars in men’s haircutting, styling and business. For more info visit eufora.net.

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1. Redken Powder Life 01 Launching in October, this spray transforms hair’s surface, creating a matte finish with amazing fullness. Info: redken.ca 2. Kenra Platinum Dry Shampoo Saves time and extends hair colour and blowouts by reducing the need to shampoo as frequently. Info: kenra.com 3. Rockaholic Dirty Secret Dry Conditioner Works hand in hand with Tigi’s Dirty Secret Dry Shampoo to instantly restyle and tame second-day hair. Info: tigihaircare.com 4. Biosilk Dry Clean Shampoo Absorbs oil and eliminates odor while infusing tresses with texture and body. Info: farouk.com 5. Unite 7 Seconds Dry Shampoo Aids in preserving hair colour, removes excess oil and increases volume with no visible powder left in the hair. Info: unitehair.com

top photo courtesy Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks. For full collection credits see p.72

Style savvy brand OSiS+ by Schwarzkopf Professional is relaunching this month with nine new products to beef up your styling arsenal. Separated into three different categories—Sleek, Curl and Volume— these products, from ultra-strong cream mousse Hold Miracle to bold styling glue Rock Hard to the first cream wax FlexWax, will help you out of any finishing rut. Info: schwarzkopf-professional.ca

salon52.ca

8/5/10 1:51:54 PM


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Find it in your salon this Holiday Season

An Exquisite Blend of 3 Natural Oils in 1 Beauty Ritual ICON SALON SYSTEMS BC

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8/4/10 3:07:23 PM


HAIRLINES

news

The Champions

Winners and finalists of the latest hair competitions

Matrix Destination Fame 2010

Michelle Surgeson of Midnapore Hairstyling, Calgary, AB

Annie Bilodeau, Nathalie Genest of Escomptes Coiffe, Loretteville, QC

Heidi Kenney of Heidi Kenney Hair Studio, Yarmouth, NS

Essensity Inspired by Nature Contest

edom Hair Inc., Emily Beck of Fre n, PEI tow tte arlo Ch

FIRST PRIZE for Canada: Emily Beck of Freedom Hair Inc., Charlottetown, P.E.I.

SECONDARY PRIZE for Central Canada: Sofia Pereira of Byblos Salon, Ottawa, Ontario

SECONDARY PRIZE for Western Canada: Candice Yue of Van Tech, Vancouver, BC

SECONDARY PRIZE for Eastern Canada: Conor Cafiso of Mat & Co. Coiffure, Montreal, QC

Winners receive a professional photo shoot to recreate their look with a Matrix mentor, makeup artist and image stylist. Photos will be featured in the Matrix 2011 calendar and magazine.

Paula Smith of Lounge Salon, Welland, ON

ISO I-Star Competition

First prize recipient receives a professional photo shoot to recreate the look for a double-page feature in Salon Magazine, and $500 donated to an environmental charity. Secondary prize winners receive $1,000 (retail value) worth of Essensity products.

The winner of this contest receives an all expenses paid trip aboard the Education on Vacation Cruise and a feature on the cover of the ISO Buyer ’s Guide.

Robert Lockhart of Salon Di Quinzio, Halifax, NS

Goldwell Color Zoom Challenge ations to Congratul or Zoom ol C the three ho will be finalists w a at ting Canad represen om l Color Zo ba lo G e th s n that take io tit pe Com ris, France Pa in e plac , 2010. on Oct. 10

Creative category: Michelle Pargee of Milicia Salon Spa, Langley, BC

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Partner category: Katrina Dielman of The Cutting Room, Nanaimo, BC

New talent category: Jonathan Thurrott of Spirit Spa, Halifax, NS salon52.ca

8/5/10 1:53:19 PM


HAIRLINES

news

Joico/ISO “Shoot to Win” Artistic Team Competition n Winners receive a trip to Toronto to create a photo collection that will be entered in the North American Hairstyling Awards with top photographer Babak, along with mentoring by Joico International Creative Director Damien Carney.

rr of a: Eve Pa ISO Canad Gatineau, QC , alon 53 Karat S

Canada Wins Big at NAHA

O

ver 2,400 people attended the North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA) gala ceremony on July 18, 2010 at Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino in Las Vegas. The show this year was also seen around the world via web livestreaming through hairdesignertv.com. Special honorees for NAHA 2010 included Frederic Holzberger, inducted into the Hall of Leaders, and Lifetime Achievement Award

EVENT PHOTOS COURTESY PRO BEAUTY ASSOCIATION

ontreal, QC Salon Pure, M

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Joico Canada: Chad Taylor of Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver, BC

recipient Beth Minardi. Canadians especially cleaned up with Alain Pereque and Antoine Vadacchino from Quebec’s Salon Pure taking home Contemporary Classic and Fashion Forward, respectively. Plus the team from Salon Pure also won Salon Team of the Year. Tony Ricci of Ricci Hair Co. in Edmonton took home the most coveted award, Hairstylist of the Year. Congratulations to all!

Alain Pereque

Antoine Vadacchino

Salon Pure team

www

Ricci Hair Co., Tony Ricci of Edmonton, AB

• For a full list of NAHA winners and event coverage check out salon52.ca.

september 10 < salon

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8/5/10 2:59:10 PM


hairlines

toolbox

Pattern Maker

Kadori Hair introduces high performance straighteners with fashionable prints

Super fast infra red heating system reaches a maximum temperature of 430° F, which is shown on an easy to read digital LCD temperature display.

WIN IT! Enter for a chance to win one of five Kadori Hair irons at salon52.ca. Contest runs Aug. 13 to Sept. 10, 2010.

Ultra lightweight, flexible ceramic tourmaline plates with negative ion technology give smooth results every time.

The rounded barrel with 360° swivel cord allows for versatile styling whether its wavy, curly or straight looks. Plus, universal voltage means you can style anywhere in the world.

For more info head to kadorihair.com.

hairlines

news

In the pink!

K

aaral’s Pink Up line has expanded with new Sweet ‘N Glow moisturizing shampoo and conditioner for all hair types, prepping it to receive the benefits of the entire Pink Up styling collection. A delicate formula that is ideal for daily washings and also colour safe. Info: kaaral.com

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Natural Volume

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he new Bain de Terre Day Lily collection offers a shampoo, conditioner and root lifter with dual benefits: protect colour-treated hair and add up to 40 per cent more volume. The key ingredient in the line, hemerocallis, is a natural antioxidant that has been used for centuries in traditional Chinese medicine. With delicate citrus notes of pear and rose, it’s a pleasure for all the senses. Info: baindeterre.com

salon52.ca

8/5/10 2:13:34 PM


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5/28/102:22:02 11:13 PM AM 6/9/10


hairlines

business

The Hard Sell

W

ith an influx of high-end, “prestige” products in the salon retail sector, knowing how to move those products off of your shelves is invaluable. Brands such as Oribe, Shu Uemura, Unite and Seah that contain premium ingredients and patented technology can retail for anywhere from $20 and up—but price isn’t the main inhibitor to raking in productderived profit in the salon, says two long-time marketing experts for major manufacturers. “Our industry totally underestimates that clients are very willing to pay for a product that will enhance their lives in some way,” explains Marianne Medeiros, director of marketing and education for Schwarzkopf Professional. “I don’t know that customers are that aversive to price,” maintains Minh-Dan Tran, marketing manager at L’Oréal Professionnel. “But knowing the products and presenting them with confidence is extremely important when you are retailing anything—from mass-market to high-end.” The difference lies in the target market, explains Medeiros using SKP’s luxury Seah brand as an example. “I think mass market consumers will indulge and splurge from time-to-time, but I don’t think picking up high-end products is part of their weekly shopping regimen,” she says. “For the typical Seah client, you’re marketing to their needs—value-add, gift with purchase and price point are not necessarily as important.” She adds Seah is positioned as a spatype treatment and is a luxury that people gravitate toward. “Yes, it is an indulgence, but for the right market it’s something that they ascribe to in their day-to-day lives. It’s just the life they lead and the luxuries they’ve become accustomed to.” Tran takes a similar approach when discussing LP’s prestige

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brands Kérastase and Pureology, as well as new addition Shu Uemura. “If a salon owner expressed interest in incorporating a prestige line I’d have a discussion with them about the type of clientele that comes into their salon, the needs expressed by that clientele and the services they offer or want to offer,” he says. But Tran also emphasizes that education is just as important as branding. “You have to know the products, you can’t solely rely on the manufacturer. If your product performs and you can talk about it intelligently, more often than not, you’ll find that customers are willing to purchase.” Like LP’s top-line brands, Seah salons are chosen based on a variety of criteria from target-achievement to client demographics. They also appoint Seah ambassadors within that salon—go-to employees, made up of stylists and front-line staff that demonstrate interest in the product and have retail savvy. This person receives the bulk of Seah training and educates their colleagues, explains Medeiros. Tran, who says LP will be introducing sampling to their salons this fall, extends this emphasis on education and service saying, “High- end products have to be accompanied by education. Customers are looking for expertise and recommendations: If you’re paying $150 for colour, you want to protect that investment.” In the end, Tran and Medeiros maintain that if you don’t offer, they won’t buy. Medeiros says, “If the brand is positioned in the right salon, clients will pay. And the worst is that they’ll say, ‘No, not today, thanks.’” Citing a recent LP study Tran adds, “Seventy per cent of clients walk out without a recommendation. But 70 per cent of that percentage would’ve bought the product if they were offered.”

text: anupa mistry, photo: istock

Retailing high-end products isn’t as difficult as you’d think

salon52.ca

8/4/10 1:18:59 PM


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hairlines

shelf life

Six new products your clients will love 1

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Beach Babes Trend reports predict beach waves are moving right into fall. Create a windswept effect by misting d:fi Beach Bum evenly over hair. Formulated with sea salt, cactus extract and sugar cane, your clients will love how this cocktail creates flexible hold and matte volume. Info: dfihair.com

3

Stamp it Out A new take on nail art design, LCN introduces its Stamping Polish Line. This kit comes complete with five high pigment polishes, eight stamping forms, the stamp, scraper and form support. Let creativity reign with 56 different design options! Info: lcn.ca

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Custom Care Take your mani-pedis to the next level with Orly’s Instant Artist Starter Kit. With 24 shades, detailer brush, striper brush and dotter duo tool, you can get creative and offer clients a customized look they will definitely spread the word about. Info: orlybeauty.com

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Clip Art Use clippers freely without being tied to a cord by investing in Ermila Bellissima special edition wireless clipper sets. Available in three colours (silver, lavender and mint green) and mini and full-size versions. Info: wahlglobal.com S

3 44

Fine Textured Give your client’s blowout some extra oomph with Redken’s new Velvet Gelatine 07. This light, airy gel melts into hair for volume, texture, shine and a velour-like finish. Plus, protect your client’s hair from humidity and resulting frizz. Info: redken.ca

Photo: Chris Tsintziras Text: Melissa Brazier

1

Styling Arsenal New launches from La Biosthetique include a Molding Spray for flexible styling and a Volume Mousse for long-lasting, extra strong hold. The spray is ideal for dry styling and protects hair from dehydration, while the mousse leaves hair smooth and gives hold that lasts up to 48 hours. Info: labiosthetique.com

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www • For more of the latest products check out salon52.ca salon52.ca

8/5/10 2:15:09 PM


R2.GLSept2010.qxd:GLJuly06-final.qxd

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Page 1

Take your Earning Potential to new heights by joining the Great Lengths® network of Certified Extension Artists

Join us on facebook & twitter! facebook.greatlengthscanada.com twitter.com/glcanada

When it comes to Hair Extension systems, Great Lengths® is • MOST recognized worldwide • MOST often asked for by name • MOST respected by professionals • MOST advanced technology • MOST consistent quality • MOST dependable results Call us for a Future of Unlimited Income Growth and Creativity – we’re here to show you how! Mention reference code 2900 and with your paid registration RECEIVE A FREE GIFT!

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UPCOMING GREAT LENGTHS® EDUCATION SEMINARS TORONTO • Sept 19–20 | Oct 17–18 | Nov 21–22 | Dec 5–6 – CLASSIC 3200 Nov 7–8 | Dec 12–13 – COLD FUSION 5000 MONTREAL • Oct 3–4 | Nov 7–8 – COLD FUSION 5000 Oct 24–25 | Nov 28–29 – CLASSIC 3200 QUEBEC • Sept 12–13 – CLASSIC 3200 CALGARY • Sept 12–13 – CLASSIC 3200 VANCOUVER • Sept 19–20 – COLD FUSION 5000 Nov 21–22 – CLASSIC 3200 *In-house seminars available by special arrangement. Learn more about joining the Great Lengths® Certified Salon Network today by calling Great Lengths® Canada at 1-800-461-9302 or write to us at info@greatlengthscanada.com.

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From one stylist to another

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Before

After

istening to your client may be the most important part of your job as a stylist. We need to understand not only what our clients want, but what they don’t want. When I hear them say that they don’t want frizz, I hand them a brochure on Global Keratin. Clients don’t want stick-straight hair. They want body and movement, but they want their hair to be manageable and controllable in humidity. Our clients are asking for these types of treatments, and it’s our job to tell them about the benefits of the Global Keratin Hair Taming System. Global Keratin is different from other products because it contains the active ingredient Juvexin—the only protein scientifically proven to protect and restore hair back to its youthful state. The after-care products from Global Keratin Hair Taming System also contain Juvexin, so as you wash your hair you are actually redepositing

A formula for every hair-type! Light Wave:

for clients who want to keep their natural wave but wish to eliminate frizz and cut their styling time in half

Curly:

for those who want a sleeker look to their hair while making it soft, shiny, smooth and frizz free

that protein back into your hair for long-term protection. The treatment lasts about three to five months and my clients book their next appointments before they walk out of the salon. I’m booked a year in advance for the Global Keratin service! My advice to any other stylist looking to offer Global Keratin in their salon is to make sure you do a great consultation. You’ll find that many of your clients have a need and desire for the Global Keratin service and that price is not an objection. I have had clients say that they finally have the hair they should have been born with. I’ve had a client with extremely unruly hair that was so overwhelmed by the results that it brought her to tears If you ask me, it makes people’s dreams come true. —Leslie Correa, Salon Owner & Global Keratin Specialist Please call TBBS for more information about our Look & Learn and Certification Classes being held on: • Mon Sep 13th • Mon Oct 18th • Mon Nov 15th • Mon Dec 6th Contact your distributor today to schedule a visit from a Global Keratin Professional.

Resistant:

designed for clients who have unruly hair and are looking to get it perfectly straight. 416-787-1211 • 800-387-2962 • www.tbbs.ca

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Pink Tartan

Loose side-braids, intricate chignons and big texturized ponytails are among this season’s top runway looks. We present the latest in hair and nail fashion, as well as bring you backstage for a first-hand glimpse into the life of a session stylist.

â–ź

PHOTOS: RYAN FRANCOZ

The Style Report

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f/w 2010-11 style report

By Yasmin Grothé

Fall Speaks Volumes Catwalks are bringing back hair with a lot more presence. From long and tousled locks to the more structured side part and chignon, this season is all about texture and volume

A side ponytail is created from disheveled and unkempt “bed head hair,” echoing a strong retro vibe seen throughout the collection.

Toronto Fashion Week - Andy Thê-Ahn

r Rodarte Aveda fo

Chic and controlled, hair is parted to the side and held in place with gel, in an ode to the more refined side of the 70s. Aveda for Theallet

A cluster of tight coils are held in place at the base of the nape creating a romantic and elegant look for Fall 2010.

Aveda for Rodarte Hair is blow-dried off the face, combed Aveda for Rodarte back from the hairline to the occipital and held in place with poetic, decorative clips.

Aveda for Sirlano

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To achieve the Hitchcock heroine look, hair is upswept and gelled on the sides, then loosely piled on the top. Black shades optional.

Natural tresses are loosely tied to the side and gently fall on the shoulders, as the crown is delicately teased out.

TOP RIGHT AND BOTTOM THREE PHOTOS COURTESY AVEDA; TOP LEFT PHOTO RYAN FRANCOZ; TOP MIDDLE PHOTO ANDY BAUER

Tigi for Lacoste

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Super-long extensions are texturized and backcombed to add dramatic volume, while the front displays a slightly playful pompadour.

rs nd of Outside essional for Ba Sebastian Prof Montreal Fashion Week - Nadya Toto This über controlled chignon takes centre stage on the catwalk to balance an asymetrical silhouette.

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A low-slung ponytail subtly nods to 70s style, without losing itself to the past when hair was more controlled. ▼

TOP PHOTO: RYAN FRANCOZ, BOTTOM LEFT PHOTO JIMMY HAMELIN; BOTTOM RIGHT PHOTO STEPHANIE SELISKAR

TOP RIGHT AND BOTTOM THREE PHOTOS COURTESY AVEDA; TOP LEFT PHOTO RYAN FRANCOZ; TOP MIDDLE PHOTO ANDY BAUER

Toronto Fashion Week - Joe Fresh

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f/w 2010-11 style report Montreal Fashion Week - Marie St. Pierre

Australia Fashion Week - Lucette

TOP LEFT PHOTO JIMMY HAMELIN; TOP RIGHT PHOTO SIX6PHOTOGRAPHY; BOTTOM PHOTOS COURTESY AVEDA

Classic hair worn down with lots of body and movement through the mid-lengths and ends is made fresh with a swooping fringe pinned just above the ear.

This look channels tribal in a subdued, elegant fashion with coiled sections of hair piled high on the head.

Short hair gets the chunky and spiked treatment with well-defined sections and a side fringe.

llet Aveda for Thea

â–ź

Aveda for Jason Wu

A romantic, no-fuss bun is gently held in place with a simple string. The must: shiny, straight hair.

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salon52.ca

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BE GENEROUS, GIVE FROM YOUR HEART… Redken Salons & extend a helping hand to children living in poverty. HERE IN CANADA, ONE MILLION CHILDREN, OR NEARLY ONE IN SIX, LIVE IN POVERTY, WHEN ONLY A FEW DOLLARS CAN FEED A CHILD FOR A DAY! Once again in 2010 we are asking for your generous support. Redken’s vision is for all people to learn better, earn better and live a better life. We are committed to help raise money through multiple Cut-A-Thons across the country. All the proceeds will go to feed hungry children right here in Canada.

BE PART OF IT! SEPTEMBER 27th TO OCTOBER 1st IS THE INTERNATIONAL CUT-A-THON WEEK FOR REDKEN SALONS AROUND THE WORLD!

HOW CAN YOU HELP? Sign your salon up today!

Call: 1.866.9.REDKEN or go to Redken.ca to register. Thank you for helping to feed our children.

50 YEARS INSPIRING THE PROFESSIONAL EDGE

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f/w 2010-11 style report

By Anupa Mistry

Hitting the Nail From Ruffian’s reverse half-moon mani to the continued dominance of Minx overlays, nails are taking centre stage as a fashion statement. Use these new shades to create custom styles for your trendiest clients Get an easy denim-look mani using CND’s latest limited edition Colour & Effects duo. Layer Urban Oasis, a spruce crème, under Teal Sparkle, which provides a bluish green effect.

OPI traveled to

Switzerland for its seasonal selection, which features eclectic touches like gold Glitzerland, ambiguous Ski Teal We Drop and ruby From A to Z-urich.

SpaRitual

reminds us that all you need is love—in any colour! A World of Compassion is a glossy periwinkle and Unconditional Love illuminates like burning rust.

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China Glaze goes retro this fall with Vintage Vixen, a 12-shade collection featuring autumnal metallics and like burnt orange Goin’ My Way? and buttery Classic Camel.

New York City is the inspiration for CHI’s fall colours. Tip the deep cranberry of Crazy Cab Ride on Broadway with frosty white Snow Angels in Central Park.

Essie has four

fashion-referencing shades for fall: deep red Sew Psyched, mossy Merino Cool, grey lavender Limited Addiction and choclatey Little Brown Dress.

MODEL PHOTO COURTESY CND

Week Fashion

New York Ruffian, CND for

salon52.ca

8/4/10 1:40:50 PM


Sunset Boulevard

BC AB SK MB 1.800.557.3223

After Party

Red Carpet

Walk of Fame

CENTRAL & EAST 1.888.859.3434 LCN.ca

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f/w 2010-11 style report

Backstage Pass Top hairstylists divulge what goes on behind-thescenes at fashion week and what it takes to thrive as a session stylist By Emily Gravelle

A

s models walk flawlessly down the runway, it’s almost impossible to imagine the long hours of preparation and the team of beauty professionals whose hair and makeup tricks complete the glamourous looks. Working backstage as a hairstylist is certainly different than salon life. Collaboration on a desired look between the designer and the beauty team starts weeks in advance, while models begin having their hair teased or blown-out at least six hours before they strut their stuff down the runway. Daniel Fiorio of Salon Daniel has been the lead hairstylist for Toronto designer David Dixon for several years. He says in order to be successful in the fashion circuit one has to understand what session styling is all about. “Everyone is trained to cut and colour, but stylists who want to work on big fashion shows really need to absorb what is currently happening on the runways and understand every detail,” says Fiorio. Fellow stylist Brennen DeMelo of Brennen DeMelo Studios and artistic ambassador for major manufacturers L'Oréal Professionnel and Rowenta Beauty, has worked backstage at countless Toronto Fashion Week shows and agrees. “You have to be able to differentiate between fashion hair and salon hair. Often hair can be overdone for the runway and look really stiff. You need to be able to understand that kind of styling,” says DeMelo.

Achieving this knowledge begins with understanding the many degrees of texture in order to pull off a successful runway look. This has always been the case for Damien Carney, who has been an accomplished hairstylist for over 20 years. His first show ever was for Paul Smith in Paris where he learned a major lesson in hair surfaces. “It was interesting to see how certain textures could look stale and others look incredibly new,” says Carney. “It’s not just hair on the

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photos Ryan Francoz

Starting Point

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Week, Toronto Fashion n xo David Di

Miami Fashion Week, Unite Unveiled

head, it’s hair that compliments makeup, wardrobe and the direction of that particular show.” For Chad Taylor from Moods Hair Salon in Vancouver, getting his start was all about being in the right place at the right time. “The first runway show I worked on was for the label Heatherette. I was working with MTV in Vancouver while doing a competition when I met them,” says Taylor. “They asked me to work with them on their next runway show and that was a really exciting opportunity.” Since then Taylor has worked on over 150 shows in both New York and Paris. New York-based hairstylist Nicholas Pagano partnered with fashion hair brand Unite over two years ago and has had the opportunity to work

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backstage at both Miami and New York Fashion Week. “When the model hair test begins, that’s when you realize doing a great style is not enough. You have to provide an entire package because there are a lot of people giving opinions and the hairstylist is the one to create balance,” he says. This past season, he was the team leader at Miami Fashion Week where he had to decide which Unite products would work best to create the hairstyles, as well as prepare the team for the day of the event. “The shows in Miami were intense because all the designers shared models,” says Pagano. “The difficult part was creating a hairstyle that would work for each designer and successfully change the entire look within three minutes.”

Opposite page: top: Daniel Fiorio at Toronto Fashion Week, left: Barbie by David Dixon, Toronto Fashion Week. This page clockwise from top left: Nicholas Pagano at Miami Fashion Week, actress Olivia Munn styled by Damien Carney for Details magazine, Damien Carney and model on stage.

TOP LEFT TWO PHOTOS AND BOTTOM LEFT PHOTO COURTESY UNITE; BOTTOM MIDDLE PHOTO RYAN FRANCOZ; TOP AND BOTTOM RIGHT PHOTO COURTESY DAMIEN CARNEY.

“In general you’re a magician. You can make any hair tell the story; you have to work with fine hair, short hair and rarely are you presented with the ideal hair.” —Damien Carney

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Possessing the Power

Of course, no amount of planning can prepare for some of the hiccups that can take place backstage. It’s often a scene of chaos where models, makeup artists, designers and hairstylists are all rushing to be on cue. Three seasons ago, DeMelo was set to style the hair of Canadian top model Taryn Davidson who would open a show in Toronto—only she was in the middle of playing a hockey game when beauty preparations were taking place. “Her agent Elmer Olsen pulled me aside and explained that this model loves playing hockey and wouldn’t be arriving until 10 minutes before the show started,” says DeMelo. “Well, she didn’t arrive backstage until three minutes before the show and there was a crowd of hair and makeup artists waiting for her.” As DeMelo worked his magic on the hair, three artists applied the makeup. Just over 180 seconds later Davidson was ready to step out onto the runway. “I was literally running to the stage with her and pinning her hair right up until the last second and in the end she looked absolutely flawless,” he says. Carney remembers working on a show where the lead stylist showed up late. “The styling team continued to work on the hair because the show must go on, but the designer still freaked out,” says Carney. “Stress and tension took over, but at the end of the day it all worked out.”

Working backstage at a major fashion event certainly has its rewards, but it takes a visionary artist to successfully convey the mood and feel set forth by the designer. “In general you’re a magician. You can make any hair tell the story; you have to work with fine hair, short hair and rarely are you presented with the ideal hair,” says Carney. “You have to be skilled in many areas in order to bring the vision to life. I’m known for texture and editorial edge, but I can also do polished, simple, natural looks, too.” Narges Ehsani, esthetician at Tips Nail Bar and Toronto Fashion Week makeup artist has watched the show grow over the past few years and begin to obtain international recognition. Her main piece of advice for those wanting to get involved is it’s crucial to be passionate. “It’s all very hard work. The days are long, tiring and it can be stressful at times. But it’s worth it,” she says. DeMelo is working with his agent in New York to set up shows for New York Fashion Week. “It’s tricky for Canadian artists to really break down those barriers, but I’m ready for the next big thing in my career,” he says. “Even if I have to go there and assist backstage, I don’t mind because that is how I started here in Toronto. Working your way up to the top is a strategy that keeps you driven, motivated and doing good work.”

Clockwise from bottom left: Chad Taylor backstage at fashion week, Brennan DeMelo at Toronto Fashion Week, Backstage at Toronto Fashion Week, Narges Ehsani at Toronto Fashion Week.

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t

Behind the Curtain

Middle and top two photos Ryan Francoz; bottom left photo courtesy Chad Taylor.

f/w 2010-11 style report

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Mia is wearing Unconditional Love.

A world of COMPASSION crème

eNDleSS POSSIbIlItIeS crème

HeAltH, WeAltH & HAPPINeSS transitional shimmer

DreAMS beCOMINg reAlIty crème

lIvINg IN tHe MOMeNt crème

UNCONDItIONAl lOve foil

ThE IMAgINE COllECTION AvAilAble AuguSt 1, 2010

SPArituAl vegAn nAil lAcquerS And elixirS Are free of dbP, toluene, formAldehyde And formAldehyde reSin

SPA RITUAL .COM

877.S PA RIT UAL

Distributions France Lecuyer QC 514.272.0222 West coast beauty BC 604.321.2700 MaritiMe beauty suppLy NB, NS, PEI 902.429.8510 aLternative beauty services ON 905.670.0611 suMMit saLon services AB, SK, MB 403.252.6201 internationaL beauty services AB, SK, MB 780.454.3388 icon saLon systeMs BC 604.591.2339 concept Jp QC 450.687.2595

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Ready-to-wear

tear it out!

Runway looks too over-the-top for your everyday clients? Clip this page of wearable fashion show style for handy chairside inspiration By Anupa Mistry

40%

Greta Constantine

The team from Hair 2 Inc., led by Adrian Carew, crafted this sleek look featuring a hairband of hair to complement the futuristic collection.

id Dixon Barbie by Dav

Comrags

Proving that curly-haired clients can still get runwayinspired style, the Comrags hair team put together this asymmetric curly crop.

A volumized crown and shiny lengths, crafted by the team at Salon Daniel, add a Mod touch to David Dixon’s Barbies.

Bustle

Pink Tartan

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The warm weather braid trend continues into fall but, with added length, is moodier and more romantic.

Backstage at Bustle, boys were given a dapper, modern English treatment by the Toronto Fashion Week hair team. S

PHOTOS (EXCLUDING TOP LEFT) RYAN FRANCOZ

of salon52.ca visitors picked this as their favourite look for fall.

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f/w 2010-11 style report

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why Kevin? KEVIN.MURPHY products are paraben- and sulphatefree, made from renewable and sustainable resources where ever possible and use pure and natural ingredients. The hands-on education is interactive with a focus on executing the red carpet and editorial looks that your clients want. Learn tricks of the trade from worldrenowned session artists.

what’s new with Kevin?

where’s Kevin?

Luxury.Wash & Luxury.Rinse (New Formula)

Aug 30 - Sept 3rd: Melbourne Spring Fashion Week Sept 18 - 20th: 2-day kevin.murphy educational retreat featuring the entire global kevin.murphy artistic team. Blue Mountain, Collingwood, ON

The reinvented LUXURY.RINSE and LUXURY.WASH are a richer, smoother, ultra rich shampoo and conditioner with ingredients specifically suited for the needs of thick, coarse hair. Improves shine and elasticity, leaving hair moisturized, manageable, supple and frizz-free. Suphate and Paraben free.

Sept 26 - 27th: Saskatoon ABA Show: David Glover for Kevin Murphy See Kevin demonstrating his skills on CityLine and in podcasts at fashionmagazine.com

Available at these distributors Ontario

kevinmurphy.com.au

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Alberta, Saskatchewan & Manitoba

800-387-2962

800-642-3818

British Columbia

800-661-2707

8/5/10 7:58:24 PM


style st

rs

Happy Half Century! Redken celebrates 50 years of breakthrough education and innovation

1960s Actress Paula Kent took $3,000 earned from a beer commercial and partnered up with her stylist and friend Jheri Redding to form hair care manufacturer Redken.

1970s Paula Kent secures UK legend Vidal Sassoon to travel around the US on behalf of the brand. In 1974, Redken would also host its first educational symposium with over 500 salon professionals in attendance, an annual tradition that carries on today internationally.

1980s In 1983, Redken introduced Shades EQ Equalizing Color Gloss and continued to expand the Extreme hair care collection products.

2000s

In 1993, Kent sold her company to L’Oréal. Redken moved to New York in 1996, added “5th Avenue NYC “ to its name and solidified its position as a creative company at the forefront of fashion.

The millennium brought new product innovations and a partnership between Redken and session stylist Guido Paulo— creative consultant working fashion weeks worldwide.

1990s

n 1960, American actress Paula Kent and her personal hairstylist and friend Jheri Redding combined their names and partnered up to create what would become internationally renowned hair care company Redken. The three products that started it all were a shampoo that didn’t lather named Amino Pon, a concentrated protein solution named PPT S77 and a wave set you had to add water to. Based on the science of protein and pH, Redken’s focus was to educate stylists on the formulations behind the products, so they in turn could teach clients and retail products within the salon, a revolutionary idea at the time. Kent says, “The Redken salons knew more, they knew about the structure of the hair and how the products were working, and that made them better.” She also always upheld that Redken should remain a professional-only line. Enduring 20 some odd lawsuits, Kent always had a no-nonense, cut-them-offimmediately policy when it came to diverters. Terry Ritcey, who has worked with the brand since 1980 and been the national education director for the past eight years, describes the continuing philosophy: “When you successfully grow people, you can successfully grow your brand. It’s helping hairstylists see their business as a business.” This almost familial connection with the hairstyling community through annual educational symposiums and direct involvement of manufacturer and distributors alike developed into a cult following and gave birth to the term “Redkenites.” No one exemplifies this idea of growing alongside the brand more than Ann Mincey. Starting out as a receptionist at a friend’s Redken salon, she unassumingly climbed the corporate ladder all the way up to VP of global communications. Mincey, who started wellness seminars with Redken in 1977, says, “The whole message has been about taking care of yourself first and having that energy, capacity and endurance to pass it along to your world.” Today, Redken remains in salons and only continues to grow. For a full lesson in Redken’s history see the timeline shown at left.

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PHOTOS COURTESY REDKEN

I

By Melissa Brazier

salon52.ca

8/4/10 1:43:11 PM


I N T R O D U C I N G

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8/4/10 3:08:33 PM


style st

rs SHAPING THE FUTURE Canadian Sebastian anniversary show hairsylists discuss their favourite Shaper moment

SHAPER MOMENT: SCENT

Shape Shifter

Name: Jason Fournier, Texture Salon: Metro Urban Hair Studio, Calgary, AB “One of my first impressions of the hair industry was Shaper hairspray. Just the smell of it takes me back 20 years to the beginning of my career. It reminds me of those memorable moments doing New York Fashion Week where Sebastian was a sponsor.”

When Sebastian’s iconic Shaper hairspray turns 25, it’s reason to celebrate!

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SHAPER MOMENT: SIGHT Name: Cam Patey, Voluminous Salon: Studio MW, Montreal, QC “For me, Shaper has always been my staple. It’s something that I see and immediately throw into my kit and it’s with me where ever I go. You can ask any hairstylist or client and they know what Shaper is.”

SHAPER MOMENT: SOUND Name: Daniel Di Tomasso, Voluminous Salon: Mane Society, Bolton and Maple, ON “An amazing moment for me was making hair out of a balloon five years ago during the Robert Lobetta Tour at the Kodak Theater in L.A. The only spray that would work was Shaper when we popped the balloon and the hair remained in shape.”

PHOTOS: JORDAN STRAUSS, GETTY IMAGES.

Above: Janine Jarman mingles with a party guest. Right: Limited edition Shaper Hairspray Collection.

streets of NYC. By 10 p.m. things really heated up when the team of Sebastian hairstylists, models and DJ Z-Trip then made their grand entrance for a high-energy hair show that was broken into three segments: texture, voluminous and vibrancy. Janine Jarman, recognizable from TV series Shear Genius, styled hair during one of the segments. “Shaper was the can of hairspray that you could actually turn upside down. Women started flipping their hair over and spraying it and this really made people look differently at the whole way hairspray was used,” she said. Fellow Shear Genius alumni, Amy Michleb from Kenchii, was invited as a special party guest. “I was in total awe of the finer details such as circus acts that took place between the crowds during the event,” says Michleb. The Sounds played a few of their hits for the crowd and the party kept on going until the wee hours of the night. “This is a celebration unlike anything I've ever seen before,” said one of the party guests. "Here’s to another 25 years!”

I

t’s become a staple item over past quarter century, and today, the new generation of Shaper hairsprays—Re-Shaper, Shaper Zero Gravity and Shaper Fierce—is celebrating its past, present and future with advanced technologies and forumlations. To commemorate the 25th birthday of Shaper hairspray, hundreds of people gathered at the Pa r a m o u n t S tu d i o s Ba ck l o t i n L . A . t h i s past June for a bash like no other. Part ygoers mingled and watched live art and hair demonstrations on a giant movie set that resembled the

By Emily Gravelle

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rs

Man on a Mission

John Paul DeJoria shares his views on success and philanthropy after 30 years of stardom

S

Top: DeJoria and the Dalai Lama, middle:Young DeJoria with his mother and brother, bottom: DeJoria with Brad Pitt and Nelson Mandela at Mineseeker Foundation in 2004

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By Emily Gravelle

i tt i n g d o w n i n a room with John Paul DeJoria is like coming face to face with hair royalty. Having achieved the utmost success through his company John Paul Mitchell Systems (JPMS) and landing the number 212 spot on Forbes magazine’s most recent World Billionaire list doesn’t stop this man from continually taking giant strides to make the beauty industry—and the world—a better place. Thirty years ago two friends had a vision and $700 in their pockets. DeJoria and hairstylist Paul Mitchell wanted to found a company for hair care professionals and educators that would provide successful tools and a revolutionary new

AWAPUHI The latest line from John Paul Mitchell Systems comes in the form of eight luxury products called Awapuhi. The main ingredient comes from the Awapuhi ginger plant, which moisturizes skin and hair. JPMS established a sustainable solar-powered Awapuhi farm in Hawaii nearly 30 years ago. The extraction method of the plant allows the most lipid-rich part of the root to bind to the hair shaft. Awapuhi also contains a blend of Keratriplex that penetrates, repairs and seals damaged hair. Derived from New Zealand sheep’s wool, KeraTriplex is almost identical to the protein found in human hair.

styling method: hair sculpting. Fast forward to 2010 where the brand has annual salon retail sales approaching $900 million and produces over 90 products. DeJoria is quick to share his motto: “success u n s h a r e d i s f a i l u r e .” H i s countless philanthropic efforts have had a huge impact on the brand and various regions around the world. In 2004, DeJoria joined Brad Pitt and Nelson Mandela to become a patron of the Mineseeker Foundation. In 2005, he cut off his signature ponytail on the Leeza at Night show to raise $50,000 for the Red Cross Tsunami Relief Effort. “Our entire Tea Tree product line is carbon neutral and we plant more trees in North America

than all the carbon we use in [producing] the entire line,” adds DeJoria. When not focusing on his work, DeJoria steers the company according to its original vision. Regardless of hugely profitable offers from public corporations to purchase JPMS, he refuses to sell the company because of his initial vow to stand by t h e p r o fe s s i o n a l b e a u t y i n d u s t r y. S i n c e n o p u b l i c corporation can guarantee it will market the products exclusively through salons, for DeJoria selling is simply not an option. “I own the majority of the company and put it in a trust that lasts 360 years,” says DeJoria. “JPMS will be in the hair care industry forever.” S

PHOTOS COURTESY JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS

style st

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www.chinaglaze.com Model is wearing “Riveter Rouge”

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PROFILE

THIS PAGE: PHOTO PETER ARNEL. OPPOSITE PAGE: TOP RIGHT PHOTO COURTESY W MAGAZINE, PHOTO CRAIG MCDEAN; ALL OTHER PHOTOS COURTESY ORIBE HAIR CARE.

Power Play

Renowned celebrity and editorial stylist Oribe tells all By Melissa Brazier

Q: What was your first big break in the industry?

A: It was 1976, and I started working with GQ magazine. They would send me in as a replacement when someone would get sick or couldn’t make it. I remember getting to work with Francesco Scavullo that way. I could style up to four top girls in one day—and that was big. Q: Who were you most star-struck to meet for the first time?

A: Way Bandy. He was the biggest makeup artist in the world; he was just amazing. I remember he came up to me at Studio 54 and told me I had a great nose (laughs).

Q: How have you grown as a hairstylist over your 30-year career?

A: When you’re constantly working and you truly love what you are doing, you discover new ways of innovating and pushing yourself.

Q: What's your wildest party story? A: From 1988 to 1993 (laughs). Q:

What's your philosophy or motto as a hairstylist?

A: I always try to make a woman look beautiful, sexy, extravagant and a little exaggerated. I love the oddness in things. The one weird thing about a person’s hair is what makes it great. In every one of my hairdos there’s always one hair out of place…unless I am deliberately going for perfection. Q: Tell us a few of your most memorable moments working with celebrity clientele.

A: One of my favourite celebrity moments was when I worked with Sophia Loren at the Ritz Hotel in Paris in the mid 90s. It was so amazing

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just to meet her and to give her my signature style. I gave her lots of hair and she loved it. I also loved working with Virna Lisi, the Italian movie star, for Vogue Italia. There’s a great picture of the two of us, where I’m holding a big can of hair spray. I also loved working with Barbra Streisand for Vanity Fair.

Q: Can you tell us about your first project with famous photographer Richard Avedon? A: It took me awhile to really get some great breaks. I had been in New York for three years, and one day Richard Avedon was looking for a new look for Self magazine. They called me because they wanted someone young and fresh, and I guess I was young and fresh back then, so I got the job.

Q: What's your bestkept hairstyling trick or secret?

A: No secrets,

especially since Oribe

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Hair Care came out. I’m completely exposed. I’m like the masked magician who comes on TV and tells you all the tricks. I learned a great lesson from a wonderful agent, Omar. He said, “The more you share, the more you grow.” My dad also told me to never say no… never say you can’t do something. He said that somehow, by trying really hard and having confidence, it will come out your way. A lot of my work is about just trying it my way. It’s about that confidence.

Q: What are the top four lessons you’ve learned over the past 30 years in this industry?

A: Stay true to yourself. Stay humble. Stay interested. And, above all, stay passionate. Q: What is your proudest accomplishment and why? A: There have been many, many highlights.

Certainly something I am most recently extremely proud of is the Oribe Hair Care line. In a sense, it’s my 30 years of experience in a bottle.

Q: What made you decide to start your own product line?

A: Through the years you learn to mix products. I’ve always been a product snob. I learned to combine things in my own way and always wanted to have the opportunity to work with chemists to find the right balance. The opportunity came up with the right partners and it was the right time in my life. Q: What are your future plans?

A: The future for me is all about Oribe Hair Care. My aspirations for the line are to continue developing and making products that are modern but with a nod to the old

world. Products that will take us through the next decade with style and make it easier for hairstylists. I also want to meet more hairstylists. I’m enjoying being exposed to so many types of wonderful people. On the editorial front, I’m doing my best work now, so I want to continue working and trying new things, creating new styles and just evolving with fashion. Clockwise from top left: Oribe with Diana Ross; Oribe styling Vendela Kirsebom; Oribe styling Rosario Dawson; Charlize Theron cover for W magazine June 2008 styled by Oribe and shot by Craig McDean; the new Oribe Hair Care line; Oribe with photographer Steven Meisel and makeup artist Francois Nars; Oribe with model Laetitia Casta; Oribe working on set of his Intercoiffure Miami shoot; Oribe working on stage at a show in Las Vegas this past April. S

www

• Go to salon52.ca for a behind-thescenes glimpse of Oribe’s shoot and stage presentation at Intercoiffure Miami.

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COLOUR

TRUE COLOURS

This season’s top three hair colour trends + the latest launches

S

RICH REDS

POWER PIGMENTS as seen on...

LYDIA HEARST ON THE COVER OF VIXEN MAGAZINE

THE RUNWAY OF CYNTHIA ROWLEY F/W 2010-11 SHOW

trend defined... Primary colours like blue, green and yellow have been making peek-a-boo appearances on the international hair trend scene. Moving away from the 80s punk movement of all over pure pigment colour, for 2010 it’s all about strategic placement and unique colour combinations.

colour cocktail... At the Cynthia Rowley F/W 2010-11 show a textured ponytail was accented with the striking contrast of artificial coloured hair extensions blended seamlessly for a modern twist. A team of Wella Professionals stylists led by Eva Scrivo custom coloured the extensions using Koleston Perfect Special Mix shades, which replicated the rich, artificial jewel tones of the collection like emerald, amethyst, lapis, bright turquoise and navy.

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as seen on...

AUSTRALIAN SUPERMODEL TIAH ECKHARDT IN NO. MAGAZINE ISSUE 10

THE RUNWAY OF CHRISTIAN CHENAIL F/W 2010-11 SHOW

trend defined... The trend for reds this season has two extremes ranging from a bright yet soft copper hue to a deep, pure red. Think Jessica Rabbit meets Ginger of Gilligan’s Island. No matter what route your client wants to go, the key for both of these looks is dimension with multitonal hues throughout. Have fun and mix it up!

colour cocktail... Michelle Oliver, technical advisor for Schwarzkopf Professional, says both of these looks can be achieved by using the new Igora Color Gloss. To achieve the deep, rich red hue she suggests Color Gloss 6-8 (dark blonde red) partly intermixed with 7-7 (medium blonde copper) to help create a more rustic red tone. If your client prefers stop-traffic reds then explore the creative options by also mixing in Color Gloss Red Spark. The classic ginger tone, on the other hand, could be achieved by using Color Gloss 7-7 (medium blonde copper) and 8-5 (light blonde gold) together to create a softer copper tone. For a much more intense result try adding Color Gloss Orange Glow to the mix.

LEFT TO RIGHT PHOTOS COURTSEY: VIXENMAGAZINE.NO, PHOTO ELIAS WESSEL, TALENT LYDIA HEARST, STYLIST STORM PEDERSEN, ART DIRECTION SOPHY HOLLAND, DIGITAL TECH PASCAL CHARLES PETIT, HAIR CHARLEY BROWN, MAKEUP YADIM, MANICURIST KRIS KISS, PHOTO ASSISTANT HEINRICH ZIMMERMANN, STYLING ASSISTANT ADRIAN DIAZ; WELLA PROFESSIONALS; PHOTO HOLLY BLAKE, STYLING PAUL BUI, MAKEUP CHARLIE KIELTY, HAIR MATTHEW WEBB, TALENT TIAH ECKHARDT, CLOTHING CHRISTOPHER KANE; JIMMY HAMELIN; KEYSTONEPRESS AGENCY

By Melissa Brazier

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PURE BLONDES

WHATS NEW?

as seen on... Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect Special Blondes

THE RUNWAY OF PRABAL GURUNG F/W 2010-11 SHOW

THE RUNWAY OF THE BLONDS F/W 2010-11 SHOW

trend defined... Blondes are taking the purest form these days. The trend for this colour family ranges from high-lift cooler hues to a warmer, more golden effect. The essential lesson here: blonde is back.

colour cocktail... Rodica Hristu, North American Goldwell guest artist, suggests for the icy blonde look, a combination of Goldwell’s 12BS and/or 12BM and New Blonding Cream-Ash with 12 per cent developer to give the strongest, clearest lift and tone all in one step. For the warmer blondes if only four levels of lift are required, Hristu suggests the warm shades from 11 series HiLift Blonde. If five levels of lift are necessary, choose one of the recommended warm shades from 12 series Ultra HiLift Blonde. Anything above five levels of lift requires the use of high performance pre-lighteners like Silk Lift or Oxycur Platin for a two-step procedure followed by a Colorance overlay or a Topchic glaze. For extra lift, vibrancy and reflection, consider the addition of Blonding Cream. salon52.ca

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Did you know that more than 50 per cent of all colour services are in the blonde arena? Introducing an expansive palette of blonde shades that offer high-lift and gentle conditioning for smooth results. This permanent crème colour contains Triluxiv Plus technology, which delivers clear blonde hues and the ultimate in protection through its 38 per cent lipid formulation. Alongside these five new shades, Wella is also introducing a colour brush with longer, softer bristles specially designed for the three new Special Blonde services—Blonde Impact, Blonde Impression and Blonde Infusion. Info: wellausa.com

Schwarzkopf Professional Igora Color Gloss For clients who want to experiment with colour but don’t want to commit, this new semi-permanent crème gel formula can be the perfect service offering. With 19 shades to choose from (natural, fashion and catwalk), this colour service lasts up to 15 washes and gives up to 40 per cent white blending. Use colour straight from the tube (sans developer) and let the Chroma-ColorTechnology get to work restoring hair’s softness, vibrancy and shine. Info: schwarzkopf-professional.ca S

YOU TOLD US! WHAT HUES DO YOU PREDICT YOUR CLIENTS WILL LEAN TOWARDS THIS FALL?

Jan-Marie Arteca (@jarteca) “...cool browns, multi-tonal brunettes, red heads and sandy blondes.” Misty DiCiccio “Lots of warm colours like reds and sandy blondes. And, probably lots of low-lights.” september 10 < salon

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Collection: Modern Times, Essential Looks 2010, Part Two Creative director: Steve Hogan Creative direction, hair: Tom Kroboth, Tyler Johnston Hair assistants: Sascha Rhon, Paul Donovan Creative direction, colour: Lesley Lawson Colour expert: Kay Brady Makeup: Alexandra Byrne Makeup assistant: Isabel Peters Styling: Seraphine de Lima Photos: Simon Emmett Photo assistants: Mark Pavey, Tobias Unger

www • Check out an exclusive Q&A with Tom Kroboth, global ambassador for Schwarzkopf Professional, as he talks in more detail about the new collection.

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S

Time Out Refresh your fall inspiration with Essential Looks’ Modern Times collection

easonal change brings with it a renewed interest in fashion, and Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks capitalizes on the interest in editorial and commercial looks for fall with the Modern Times collection. Creative director Steve Hogan says the twice-yearly Essential Looks collection is “our enduring commitment to placing fashion-driven skills directly into the hands of hair professionals around the world.”

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Text by Anupa Mistry The “wearable shapes and beautiful shapes and tones” in Modern Times reflect four moods: ladylike Elegant Simplicity, clean and neutral Minimal Modernist, organic and masculine Road Warriors, and retro romantic Love Story. Tom Kroboth, Essential Looks global ambassador attributes the varied collection to “a high-energy vibe running through both fashion and hair right now, with quirky and sensual looks that translate across haute couture and more wearable styles.” S

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Collection: Cubism Hair: Vivienne Mackinder, founder of HairdesignerTV.com (HDTV) Assistant: Rosemary Tejeda, HDTV artistic team member Makeup: Sonomi Styling: David Widjaja Photos: Hama Sanders

www • View a step by step video of Vivienne Mackinder’s latest collection on salon52.ca.

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Square Off

Cubism inspires the latest avant garde presentation from Vivienne Mackinder

I

Text by Anupa Mistry

was not able to cut these bold shapes on professional models,” explains Vivienne Mackinder of the trade secret behind her latest collection, Cubism. “So I put on my editorial hat and made wigs that looked like real hair.” The result of this project is a graphic collection inspired by the 20 th century Cubism art movement, featuring bold, abstract lines and angles. Borrowing the philosophy of complimentary opposites helped Mackinder create a collection that is both comfortably high-fashion and uniquely conceptual and individual. S

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Express Yourself Matrix’s newest trend collection is about showing off shapes and shades

f

Text by Anupa Mistry

or Pure Alert, the Matrix Global Design Team took cues from colour and design in their purest form. Bold reds, golden blondes and robust browns help update iconic shapes, along with new angles and layers. Long hair and short hair are given equal treatment—elevating multiple lengths to “I want that” status—and face-framing fringes, feathery pixies and chunky angles help expand your style arsenal. S

Hair: Matrix Design Team Photos: Courtesy Matrix

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Collection: The Hard Way Hair: Damien Carney for www.damiencarney.com Makeup: Miriam Vukich Stylist: Nikko Kefalas Photos: Hama Sanders

Edge of Darkness

Master conceptualist Damien Carney creates a rebellious collection Text by Anupa Mistry

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J

oico’s top creative, British stylist Damien Carney, knows how to execute a vision from top to bottom. From an impeccable wardrobe, to perfectly done hair, Carney’s collections are a complete visual aid to inspiring hairstylists and The Hard Way is no exception. Voluminous, rounded shapes are perched on top of the head in some looks, while dreamy, windswept tendrils fall out of a loose updo in others. Pairing edgy jewelry with tough leather styling, the collection is anything but conventional in its execution of contrastingly soft hairstyling. S

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12315 Humber Cosmetic Cluster:Layout 1 08/09/09 4:10 PM Page 1

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COSMETIC MANAGEMENT ESTHETICIAN/SPA MANAGEMENT or FASHION Cosmetic Management 2-Year, Accelerated Diploma (12 months) Study retailing, merchandising, marketing and sales to gain the skills you need in this expansive market. Graduate knowing current market trends in cosmetics, fragrances, beauty and skin care.

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Fashion 2-Year Diploma Program Be equipped in buying, production, marketing and management. Study apparel, accessories and the cosmetics industry. Students in this program have the option to move into Humber’s Fashion Management degree program.

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Complex Geometry

Hair: Joey Scandizzo, Rokk Ebony Salon, Melbourne, Australia Colour: Marie Uva Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Styling: Letitia Dare Photos: Andrew O’Toole

Aussie Hairdresser of the Year finalist Joey Scandizzo plays with curves and lines

i

Text by Anupa Mistry

n his latest collection, Australian hairstylist Joey Scandizzo plays with extreme geometry; from multi-linear crops to lengthy curvature. Shot as black and white by Andrew O’Toole, the starkness helps bring the eye to Scandizzo’s precision and technique, no doubt informed by Sassoon’s algorithmic approach. S

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Queens

GOLD S P O N S O R S

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PHOTOS: KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY, I STOCK, THINKSTOCK

Contess a presents:

S I LVE R S P O N SO R S

8/5/10 2:39:24 PM


Contessa 22 THE CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR AWARDS NOVEMBER 14TH, 2010

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c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry

Rock Candy Rasa Jurenas chats about her C21 Master Colourist collection

A

By Rasa Jurenas as told to Melissa Brazier

s soon as I heard that there was going to be a new colour category I began to come up with a concept. This collection is very mythical, youthful and vibrant; a mixture of cotton candy and rock’n’roll. The first piece to fall into place was the cords from the electric guitar. I loved how I could wrap it around the body and neck and make it look dimensional and bold. I started off using a smokey grey background, but when I started to use vibrant colours in the hair and black props and clothing, I thought to boost the overall look with splashes of pink. For this collection I created a colour palette that ranged from a cool tone on tone blonde with a star panel of strawberry wash to a mystical brown dimension with copper, violet and gold tones throughout. It was all about being creative and thinking of unique shapes and patterns in the hair. I do these collections to challenge myself and to see what I can come up with next. S

Collection: Contessa 21, Rock Candy Hair: Rasa Jurenas Makeup: Rasa Jurenas & Stevie Tanguay Styling: Rasa Jurenas Photos: Paula Tizzard

you told us! Why do you enter hair competitions?

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“To inspire a young team, as well as increase client perception of skill, interest and confidence.” —@Getmoregorgeous

"Early in my career I was coaxed to enter two competitions. I won both of them. I will be frank, it feels great inside. But, how you celebrate is really the judgment."

—Andre Lane, Play it by Hair salon52.ca

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PBA is Proud to Introduce ISSE Midwest!

By the Industry, For the Industry

March 26 – 28, 2011 Donald E. Stephens Convention Center Rosemont, IL Valuable Education Quality Manufacturers Professional Atmosphere Competitions for salon and nail professionals The ISSE Commitment

facebook.com/pbaisse Visit probeauty.org/isse to learn more or call 800.468.2274. Hair by

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finalist Laurie Haney

8/4/10 3:08:41 PM


nails

Selling Point W

hether you’re practicing nail bar mixology—customizing polishes and naming them after clients like Tips Nail Bar in Toronto—or scooping up new and hot services like Minx or CND’s Shellac, it’s important to keep your bread-and-butter clients interested. “People keep coming back because they like the service the salon offers,” says Tami Chu, co-owner of Tami-Beauté des ongles in Montreal. But just because they like your service, doesn’t mean you can take their regular business for granted. “In my culture, when you have a guest in your home you make them feel wanted,” says Amy Nguyen, owner of year-old Vancouver salon Socialite Nails—whether it’s through offering a sympathetic ear, remembering kid’s names or offering just the right service. “One of my strongest selling points is that I don’t offer acrylic at all. I don’t have to worry about those fumes,” says Nguyen. “It’s targeting a specific client and providing a spa experience without the spa rules and prices.” Chu remembers favourite colours and suggests products the client can use at home “to enhance

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the service received in the salon.” She also stays on top of the latest products and colour collections, letting clients know about new items instead of shelving and forgetting. Nguyen also suggests you wear the colours yourself, and send out e-mail newsletters to let clients know the collections are in. Targeting your upselling approach leads to a more personalized experience. “When I upsell my waxing, I sell my staff, saying things like ‘she’s known for her Brazilians,’ or ‘she’s quick and professional,’” Nguyen explains. “And if we’re talking retail, I might get them to try on a pair of Haviana flip-flops with Swarovski crystals to show off their pedicure.” But Nguyen’s boudoir photo shoots are her biggest investment in preventing client boredom. “I’ve partnered with a local photographer who specializes in pin-up style photos. We do hair, makeup, mani-pedis, have wine and appetizers and the client gets a private photoshoot as traditional or racy as she wants,” she explains. “We’re not just making clients look pretty—we’re encouraging them to embrace their strength so there’s substance to the service.” S

photo courtesy cnd

Keep your regular mani-pedi clients coming back with fresh ideas, new treatments and tons of service By Anupa Mistry

salon52.ca

8/4/10 1:53:21 PM


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5/31/10 AM 6/9/10 10:54:54 2:20:30 PM


esthetics

By Melissa Brazier

Suit Your Needs A look at the latest skin-care innovations for a variety of skin types

For the mature client… The effects of stress, pollution, climatic extremes, medical procedures and even diet can reflect on your client’s skin. Over 50 per cent of people consider their skin “sensitive.” Hearing your clients’ needs loud and clear, Dermalogica has introduced the new UltraCalming System to help manage sensitized and inflamed skin. Free of known sensitizers like artificial fragrances and dyes, the retail line consists of a reformulated UltraCalming Cleanser, Mist (toner), Barrier Repair, and two new products: Serum Concentrate and Relief Masque. They all feature the patented UltraCalming Complex, which contains red hogweed root extract, oat kernel extracts, ginger extract and bisabolol. All of these

active ingredients work together to lessen itchiness, redness and inflammation. There are also two professionalonly products available. The first is the UltraCalming Complex, which contains an amped up version of what’s in the retail products, with concentrated amounts of yeast extract, hyaluronic acid, panthenol and caffeine to soothe highly reactive skin. Plus this treatment continues to work even after your client has left. The second is the UltraCalming Clinical Colloidal Oatmeal masque, which contains pharmaceutical grade colloidal oatmeal to help boost the immune function of ultra-sensitive skin. Info: dermalogica.ca

For the eco-conscious client… Green. Natural. Holistic? RVB is taking the “green” trend to the next level with a new line of skin-care products aptly named Holistic Beauty. Based on the principles of Tibetan medicine—beauty is only possible when the body is balanced—the line encompasses the five traditional elements of fire, water, earth, air and ether. Getting to the root cause of skin problems, these treatments aim to re-balance, re-energize and re-educate cells to function properly. This new line is also free of parabens, siloxanes, genetically modified plant extracts, petroleum and

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La Biosthetique has introduced a line of cell-active anti-aging hair and skin care to help your clients stay rejuvenated longer. Dermosthetique is geared toward clients age 35 and up and includes a range of five new products for hair—Shampoo Actif F and N, Fluide Volume, Elixir Revitalisant and Therapie Anti-Chute—and five new products for skin—Traitement Protecteur and Regenerant, Serum Hydratant and Revitalisant and Therapie Anti-Rides. The plant-derived active ingredients in the formulation are phyto cell extract and glyco cell extract. The former works to protect and keep “mother cells” vital for longer, which are the cells responsible for the reproduction of skin and hair follicle cells. The latter is extracted from bearberry, algae and Indian wood padouk and helps to protect against glycolisation or saccharification of the tissue, which means skin and scalp maintain elasticity. Info: labiosthetique.com

animal products, silicones, formaldehyde, propylene glycol and isothiazolinone derivatives. But, just because it doesn’t contain these potentially harmful ingredients doesn’t mean your clients will have to sacrifice performance. Active ingredients are carefully selected and derived from areas with controlled self-sown vegetation and harvested only at their vital cycle for peak performance. Divided into four categories—BioEssential, BioHydra, BioCalm, BioAge and BioPurity—there’s something for every skin type on your client roster. Info: intercosmetics.ca S

model photo: thinkstock

For the sensitized client…

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INTERIORS

Cozy Charm The comforts of home with a flair for French provincial sets the tone for fashionable coifs

ust a few steps down Scollard Street in Bloor-Yorkville, Toronto’s mostcelebrated neighbourhood of style and culture, you’ll find colourist and salon owner Oskar Varela of Oskar on Scollard. As a finalist in the Contessa 21 Salon Interior Design category, Varela says he knew one day he’d own a salon, but didn’t want to use the typically trendy white, metallic and industrial type designs. Together with his wife, professional chef Tanya Da Silva, buying the property was simple because the space prior to owning it was a salon. With its plumbing and electrical circuitry in tact, Varela also saved a bundle by keeping the laminate hardwood floor. And, to create the image of a home away from home, interior designer Dvira Ovadia came aboard. Recognized for her talent in condominium/ nightclub designs, but having never really worked on a salon, she took Da Silva to auctions and home designer haunts to find classic pieces of furniture. Da Silva laughs, “it’s amazing what other items you can find on Craigslist.” The furniture in the lounge has been repainted and reupholstered giving it a romantic feel. Rather than track lighting, chandeliers hang over the cutting stations providing lots of light and giving a feminine touch that the majority of clients— professional women—love. Soothing and textured teal coloured wallpaper makes it easy to wipe off spills or stains, while lavish gold coloured drapes that hang from ceiling to floor keep the design open concept. Varela says, “we can pull the drapes across a ceiling track between the shampoo and cutting area if a client desires privacy.” The stylist stations were built with comfort and functionality in mind. At each station the wall juts out and in behind are glass shelves to hold (and hide) tools and equipment. Also unique is that two chairs are situated per station allowing twice the amount of space between staff and an extra seat if a client brings someone with them. In keeping with the homey feel of the salon, each station has an old-fashioned table with two deep drawers to hold stylists’ belongings and minimize clutter. Varela sums it up best: “I wanted the salon to feel like a home; a warm place where one could forget their daily stress and relax.” S

Blueprint

About us Info:

Oskar on Scollard Hair Studio, 68 Scollard Street, Lower West, Toronto, ON, 647.346.3306, oskaronscollard.com

Owner:

Oskar Varela

Opened:

April 28, 2009

Salon Breakdown:

Designer: Furniture & Equipment:

1300 sq. ft., eight staff, ten cut/colour stations Dvira Ovadia Takara Belmont/Bethel International

Retail Hair Product Lines: Kevin.Murphy,Schwarkzkopf Professional, Moroccanoil Software:

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PHOTO LISA PETROLE

J

By Colette Wright

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SCOOP

ON Tour! Wella Professionals’ High-Definition Tour will be returning to Toronto on Oct. 4 to host the National Trend Vision Award for 2010. From all across the country, the seven finalists in the Color category and nine finalists in the New Talent category will vie for the opportunity to compete at the International Trend Vision Award in Paris from Nov. 6 to 7. For more info check out wellausa.com. Photo: Hair: Eugene Souleiman and Josh Wood, Photo: Courtesy Wella Professionals

You’re Hired! Shiri Sarfati has been appointed Vice President of SarkliRepêchage, Ltd. Sarfati will oversee all aspects of the Repêchage brand and new business opportunities for the company. Farouk Systems has announced Basim Shami as the new president of the company. In his new position, he is working alongside CEO, Rami Shami, who oversees operations. In this role, Basim will be responsible for sales, marketing, shows and education of the CHI and BioSilk brands.

Celeb Spottings Redken was present at this year’s Much Music Video Awards pre-party to keep guests and a few celebs in tip top style. The team from Ego Salon coiffed Karl Wolf, Blueprint Crew, Eva Avila, Rex Goodie from Stereo and many more! Photo courtesy Redken

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Our Condolences

Lili Jakel (centre), internationally recognized head colourist at Michael Kluthe salon in Toronto, passed away at the age of 75 on July 19. Born in Germany, Jakel was a well-known figure in Canada and abroad. She established the first departmentalized colour department in Canada, had a loyal clientele, worked on editorial makeovers for top publications and was a long-time member of Intercoiffure. She also won many colour awards: Order de la Chevaliere and Cheena O’Seara New Concept Award, as well as Haircolor USA Colorist of the Hair on the Avenue, located in World, World Creative Artist, and the Contessa Toronto’s Yorkville neighbourhood, Lifetime Achievement Award. Please see our Oct. has expanded to add a Shu Uemura issue for a more in-depth profile. concept space. With this new New Territory addition, co-owners Luis Pacheco George W. Schaeffer, founder and Anthony Ingraldi are focusing of OPI, has acquired the on the Shu Uemura scalp ceremony Aloxxi Professional Hair Care treatment that utilizes a blend of brand from Alberto Culver. essential oils designed to cleanse Aloxxi products feature and invigorate the scalp and hair. botanical-based pigments The expansion is a response to the from Italy and include permanent, tone-on-tone, growing demands of their clientele non-ammonia, and no-lift plant dye formulations, for products that perform while as well as a range of back bar products. Call maintaining the integrity of the hair. 877.512.7131 for more info. Photo Mike and Chantal Ingram

A Helping Hand Pureology and Green Cross Canada are behind the creation and implementation of bio-sand filters—a simple and cost effective water purification technology. With Pureology Canada’s support, Green Cross is building and distributing these household filters helping supply the daily water needs of at least 10 people. Pureology also encouraged salons and industry partners to sign up for a PureGreen membership, at a cost of $75 for the year to fully benefit the Haiti project.

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Salon 12/09 Magazine Internationally Known Magazine 12/09 Salon Sean Hanna, who will be presenting Brand Aid as part of Salon International’s business program, says: “Salon International is a wonderful place to meet up with contacts from all around the UK and other parts of the world. It is an opportunity to stay in touch with the newest (sometimes Salon Magazine 12-09:Salon Magazine 07/07 wackiest) ideas, the latest cuts and styles, furniture, ‘it’ solutions and, of course, up to the moment business education.”

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Richard Ashcroft, who will be appearing alongside his team from Saco at the Salon Seminars, says: “Salon International really is education focused and provides many opportunities to see the latest work by many of the world’s top stylists.” Don’t miss Toni&Guy, Sassoon Academy, Paul Mitchell presents Robert Cromeans and Davines presents Tim Hartley showcase their latest collections in the new Salon Live theatre in the Captial Suite. .For more info check out salonexhibitions.co.uk.

Fashion First

Fairfield, California’s Anna Nelson, winner of CND’s first online nail style competition, experienced star treatment at New York Fall Fashion Week, including front row seats at the hottest shows, elite backstage access, and private showroom shopping. During her stay, Anna attended the runway shows with CND co-founder and style director Jan Arnold. She apprenticed with talented CND nail professionals Roxanne Valinoti, Angi Wingle, and Kristina Estabrooks backstage at Diego Binetti, Twinkle and The Blonds. Arnold was particularly impressed by Nelson’s unique drip technique that involves meticulously layering CND Effects to Colour to create dimension and texture on the nail. Photos courtesy CND.

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BUY YOUR TICKETS ON-LINE Purchase ABA show tickets on line at www.abacanada.com, all major credit cards accepted. You will then pick up your ticket at the show registration booth, look for a sign that says “ON-LINE TICKET PURCHASE” Ask your distributor for details or call 1-800-268-6644 for more information or visit our website at www.abacanada.com STAY CONNECTED! CONNECTED! RECEIVE RECEIVETHE THE LATEST LATEST NEWS, NEWS,AND AND MORE! MORE! STAY Become aa fan fan at at Facebook.com/Allied Facebook.com/Allied Beauty BeautyAssociation Association or or follow follow us us on on twitter.com/ABACanada twitter.com/ABACanada Become Design:Artisan Design,Windsor, Ontario Hair: Sassoon Creative Team led by Mark Hayes, International Creative Director Make-Up: Daniel Kolaric Photo Styling:Tabitha Owen Photographer: Colin Roy

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EVENTS

Cosmoprof North America 2010 Over 700 exhibiting companies and 25,000 attendees came to the sold-out Cosmoprof North America event from July 18 to 20. This year, anti-aging, customizable beauty and green products were among the predominant themes in the hair and skin-care categories, while nail manufacturers showed off the latest colours for the coming season. Barista Bath and Body, a brand new natural line of coffee-inspired bath and skincare products, made its debut at Cosmoprof and received the 2010 Discover Beauty Award. Educational seminars included a full range of keynote speakers and relevant topics such as the changing consumer perception of luxury and well-being, networking between entrepreneurs and indie brands, as well as increasing revenue with social networking. SELECT PHOTOS COURTESY PRO BEAUTY ASSOCIATION

Premiere Orlando From June 4 to 6, beauty professionals flocked to the Premiere Orlando show. This year’s theme was “The Education You Need To Succeed” and the show featured over 180 hair classes, 75 nail classes, 50 business seminars and 80 skin-care sessions co-hosted with the Premiere DaySpa Conference. Mainstage guests this year included, Robert Cromeans, Anthony Mascolo, Nicholas French, Angus Mitchell, Beth Minardi, Sam Villa, Martin Parson, Tabatha Coffey and more. PHOTOS COURTESY PREMIERE SHOW GROUP

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EVENTS

Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks Launch Industry insiders gathered at Toronto’s Nyood restaurant to get a breakdown of Schwarzkopf Professional’s newest Essential Looks collection titled Modern Times. On hand from the Essential Looks team to present and re-create the styles on stage were Kathy Simon, North American Esssential Looks ambassador, Susan Boccia, national trainer for SKP and all the way from Germany Tom Kroboth, global ambassador.

A Really Cool Hair Show Over 200 beauty pros jammed into the Rocky Mountain Station in Vancouver on April 18 to witness an day of education and product demos hosted by West Coast Beauty Supplies. Opening artist included the effusive Philip Wilson, International creative director of FHI Heat. Demos were held by Joico, ISO, FHI Heat, Kevin.Murphy, American Crew, Davines, OPI, SpaRitual, Kasho, Hair Extensions, Lakmé and Salon Supplies.

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Surrey, BC Salons Hold ONEXONE Cut-a-Thon Surrey, BC salons Alberto & Co., Alberto’s Unisex Hair Design and Avanti Hair Studio held a cut-a-thon that raised just under $4,000 for the ONEXONE charity. Attended by over 200 people, 23 stylists from the salons provided haircuts for both kids and adults. A barbeque, raffle and police dog show also provided entertainment for the crowd.

Edges Salon & Spa ONEXONE Cut-a-Thon Calgary’s Edges Salon and Spa held an outdoor cut-a-thon on June 27. Funds raised from the event went to benefit ONEXONE and its local partner, the Calgary Community Kitchen’s Tummy Tamers program. Hundreds of people from the community came out to this kickoff event for Redken’s annual charity campaign. Among the guests was ONEXONE founder and Diesel Canada president, Joelle Adler. Along with haircuts, there was a BBQ, raffle, entertainment and appearances by local sports and music celebrities and firefighters. PHOTOS COURTESY REDKEN salon52.ca

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EVENTS

Tigi Bed Head Styleshots Party

CCCA Team Canada Tryouts

Tigi threw a party at Eve nightclub in Las Vegas for the launch of their Bed Head Styleshots. The line of shampoos and conditioners include Epic Volume for height, Hi-Def for curls and Extreme Straight for smoothness. During the launch, the brand also took time to recognize the strong efforts of their North American distributors, including BSG and Metro Beauty.

The Canadian Cosmetology Association (CCCA) held a search for the best stylists nationwide on June 19 and 20. The CCCA is the official delegate to the Organization Mondial Coiffure (OMC), the world hairstyling organization hosting a championship competition in Paris Nov 6 to 8, 2010. Members of Canada’s master judging program scored the 19 competitors in three different categories: trend cutting, blow dry, and long hair styling. For a full list of winners visit salon52.ca.

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Unite Ontario Launch On June 27, Unite made its official debut in Ontario at an event hosted by Unite chairman and CEO, Andrew Dale and executive vice president, Jared Trombetta and Venus Beauty Supplies. Dale and Trombetta spoke about the brand’s commitment to fashion, popularity among celebrities and how shampoos and conditioners that are free of sulphates, parabens, salt and gluten are generating interest within the industry and consumers. The evening concluded with a live cutting demonstration by Unite stylists Abraham and Renee Africa.

Marca College Color Trophy Students congregated at the L’Oréal Academy to compete in the Marca College Color Trophy. Sixty-six students from all three campuses competed at the semi-finals on June 17 and ten finalists were chosen to move to the finals on July 8. Rhoda Rose Perez came in first, with second and third place going to Kimberly Chipchar and Jasmine Seo. Perez won the grand prize of a free shoot to enter into the Student/Apprentice category at this year’s Contessas. PHOTOS: Krista Martinez

INNOVATIVE SALON DESIGN

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CUSTOM FURNITURE

As the innovative leader in salon, spa, and barber shop furnishings and equipment, Takara Belmont has inspired Canadian Salons for 45 years.

Our versatile team takes you from concept to completion; providing spatial planning, salon and spa equipment, custom furniture and construction drawings to make your space truly remarkable.

TO DAY TOMORROW ALWAYS www.takarabelmont.ca 1-800-268-5351 Takara Company, Canada, Ltd.

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EVENTS

Matrix Mobile Salon at Luminato

L'Oréal Professionnel Luminato Braid Benefit

During Toronto’s Luminato festival, Matrix’s mobile salon rolled into town to introduce beauty addicts to Design Pulse. Roch Lemay, education and events director for Matrix, was on site along with team members Sandra Mackenzie, Nancy Picard and Christina Piciacchia. Matrix’s new guest artist Rodrigo Araneda and existing team member Maurizio Dente greeted curious guests, introducing them to products and inviting them to experience the line. Plus, over 30,000 samples were handed out.

On June 12, L’Oréal Professionnel hosts its own installation inspired by braids as part of this year’s Luminato festival in Toronto. Over 1,000 people visited the Braiding Booth to get their hair braided and twisted by LP hair artists and woven with red and white ribbons. The Braid Benefit was in support of LP’s Hairdressers Against AIDS program so all of the donations received went to the Canadian AIDS Society. Photos courtesy L'Oréal Professionnel

Permanent Make-Up Training Academy Salon owners increase your bill out income without increasing your fixed overhead. Cosmetic Tattooing: 6 day academic curriculum 100 hour course – class/home study Text books / Manuals Marketing overview Four instructors to eight students

Tattoo Removal: Only available to permanent makeup & tattoo professionals Certification training course required (1 day) Please visit our website to view our classes in action and hear what our grads have to say.

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Kaaral Educational Summit Thunder Bay

Grand Re-opening of Saje Salon.Spa.Wellness

Europa Beauty Supplies, Forma Beauty Supplies and Kaaral held an educational seminar May 15 and 16 in Thunder Bay. The sold out event had stylists participating in a hands on cut and colour class presented by Rudy D’Amico, international educator for Kaaral. D’Amico broke down everything from the basics to the latest trends. Special guests at the show included Silvano Vitulli, president and founder of Kaaral, and Paul Smith, distributor for Kaaral USA.

Saje Salon.Spa.Wellness of Appleton, ON, hosted its 10th anniversary and expansion celebration on June 5 in its garden courtyard for clients and friends. Louise Beaulieu and Saje staff wowed guests with a model transformation inspired by the peacock and lotus flower from Asia. In honour of this milestone and to show appreciation to its loyal clientele, Saje also launched a new Color Club Members card as well as a Preferred Guest Membership card.

Co-Creator & Sponsor of the Salon Business Excellence Award salon52.ca

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NAHA

North American Hair Styling Awards

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Subscribe

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❏ 1 year subscription (8 issues) to anywhere in Canada $40.00 (GST INCLUDED)

ABA Fall 2010 Show  pg 94.................................800-268-6644......................... www.abacanada.com

❏ Save $60.00 with 3 copies of every issue for you and your colleagues. 1 year subscription (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 (CANADIAN ORDERS ONLY,

China Glaze Vixen  pg 67....................................800-621-9585......................... www.chinaglaze.com

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Contessa 22  pg 82-83........................................800-720-6665......................... www.salon52.ca

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Canadian Micro Pigmentation  pg 100...............888-737-6268......................... www.micropigmentationcentre.com

CND Shellac  pg 25............................................877-CND-NAIL....................... www.cnd.com

Essie Autumn Collection  pg 21.........................800-232-1155......................... www.essie.com

Esthetics Plus  pg 89..........................................888-422-6677......................... www.epbeauty.ca Gelish Gel Polish  pg 77.....................................800-661-6245......................... www.douglasdistribution.com Gigi All Purpose Honee  pg 107.........................800-621-9585......................... www.gigispa.com Global Keratin System  pg 46-47....................................................................... www.globalkeratin.com Goldwell Men ReShade  pg 23...........................800-387-3873......................... www.goldwell-northamerica.com

______________________________________________

Great Lengths  pg 45..........................................800-461-9302......................... www.greatlengthscanada.com

______________________________________________ CARDHOLDER’S NAME

Hairapalooza  pg 24............................................800-463-3081......................... www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca

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Hot Tools Pink Titanium  pg 81..........................800-487-8432......................... www.hottools.com

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Humber College The Business School  pg 79.................................................. www.business.humber.ca

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IBD Beauty Gelac  pg 65....................................800-621-9585......................... www.ibdbeauty.com

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Business Name____________________________________ Address ___________________________Suite _________ City ____________________ Prov ___ PC _____________ Phone _________________________________________ Email__________________________________________ Website ________________________________________

❏ Please email the weekly salon52 newsletter for free ❏ Please send me periodic offers from related companies SECTION B How would you classify this location? ❏ Salon ❏ Spa ❏ School ❏ Manufacturer ❏ Distributor ❏ Franchise ❏ Freelance ❏ Home Based ❏ One of multiple locations with the same owner ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ # of Employees ____ What services are provided? ❏ Hair Care ❏ Skin Care ❏ Nail Care ❏ Hair Removal ❏ Spa Treatments ❏ Tanning ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ What do you do? ❏ Co-owner ❏ Owner ❏ Manager ❏ Hairstylist ❏ Nail Technician ❏ Electrologist ❏ Colourist ❏ Esthetician ❏ Laser Technician ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ se198

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ISO i.Luminate Color  pg 16-17..........................800-267-4676......................... www.isohair.com ISSE 2011 Midwest  pg 85...................................800-468-2274......................... www.probeauty.org Joico Reconstrx  pg 8-9.....................................800-267-4676......................... www.joico.com Kevin Murphy Luxury.Wash  pg 61.....................800-387-2962......................... www.kevinmurphy.com.au L’Oreal Professionnel INOA  pg 2-3...................800-361-8017......................... www.inoa.ca LCN Walk of Fame Collection  pg 55.................800-557-3223......................... www.lcn.ca Matrix Imagine All You Can Be  pg 29-32..........888-422-6879......................... www.matrix.com May Cosmetics Thermo Builder  pg 103.......................................................... www.monplatin.ca Milano Software  pg 101.....................................800-667-1596......................... www.milanosystems.com Mixed Chicks  pg 98............................................877-888-0480......................... www.mixedchicks.net Oligo Professionnel Alcove  pg 12-13................877-837-6426......................... www.oligoprofessionnel.com OPI Swiss Collection  pg 35...............................800-341-9999......................... www.opi.com Orofluido Golden Treasure  pg 37......................800-387-7980......................... www.orofluido.com Pivot Point  pg 103..............................................888-735-4247......................... www.pivotpointcanada.ca Pureology Antifade Complex  pg 10-11.............800-361-1861......................... www.pureology.com Redken OneXOne  pg 53.....................................866-9REDKEN........................ www.redken.ca Rowenta Beauty  pg 43...................................................................................... www.rowentabeauty.ca Schwarzkopf Essensity  pg 18-19.......................800-463-3081......................... www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Schwarzkopf OSiS  pg 4-5..................................800-463-3081......................... www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Sebastian Re-Shaper  pg 6-7............................800-267-1962......................... www.sebastianprofessional.com Soma Hair Technology  pg 48.............................866-843-2257......................... www.somahair.ca SpaRitual The Imagine Collection  pg 59..........877-SPA-RITUAL................... www.sparitual.com Star Nail Canada  pg 87......................................877-852-STAR........................ www.starnailcanada.com

FAX FORM TO: (905) 729-4432

Takara Belmont  pg 99........................................800-268-5351......................... www.takarabelmont.ca

MAIL FORM TO: SALON MAGAZINE PO BOX 357, BEETON, ON L0G 1A0

TIGI Catwalk  pg 41............................................800-259-8596......................... www.catwalkbytigi.com

or subscribe online at www.salon52.ca

Wella Trend Vision  pg 27...................................800-41-WELLA....................... www.wellausa.com

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Vero K-Pak Color  pg 108...................................800-267-4676......................... www.joico.com

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EVENTS

SEPTEMBER 2010 CAPITAL BEAUTY EXPO September 12, 2010 Lansdowne Park Ottawa, ON Info: capitalbeautyexpo.com HAIRAPALOOZA WINNIPEG September 12, 2010 Location TBA Winnipeg, MB Info: schwarzkopf-professional.ca HAIRAPALOOA MONTREAL September 19, 2010 Location TBA Montreal, QC Info: schwarzkopf-professional.ca CANTIN September 19, 2010 Centre des Congres Quebec City, QC Info: cantinbeaute.com ABA SASKATOON September 26–27, 2010 Prairielands Exhibition Park Saskatoon, SK Info: abacanada.com

HAIR CLASSES AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892

KMS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 877.670.6767 L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Classes include Absolute LP, Colour Keys, Colour on Colour, Essential Texture and the new H3 Academy Info: 800.361.1861 MATRIX EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 888.422.6879 REDKEN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.9.REDKEN SKP EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 905.625.7200 or contact your local Schwarzkopf distributor TIGI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.259.8596

Natural Silk Therapy Black Caviar Collection

For further inquires on current distribution: Head Office (Canada): phone: 905.482.4399, 416.834.4729 fax: 289.597.0224 www.monplatin.com maycosmetics@yahoo.ca

URBAN BEAUTY SYSTEMS Educational Programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions; In-salon classes available; Info: 866.731.4327

NAIL & ESTHETICS CLASSES AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892

CHI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 888.251.8466

CND EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: contact your local CND distributor

GLOBAL BEST BEAUTY EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988

LCN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings

GOLDWELL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS including Trend Zoom seminars Info: 877.670.6767

Create the Difference

STAR NAIL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.661.9997

GREAT LENGTHS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: greatlengthscanada.com

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do with it. Both James Dean and my hero Winston Churchill were only 5 ft. 8 in. and they never let it hold them back. That same friend learned from two image experts at a seminar that half of our visual impact comes from our looks, and the other half from our energy. So maybe you don’t have symmetrical facial features, but you can always work up a great attitude. My idols when it comes to presenting a marvelous image are the masters of cool, Humphrey Bogart and Fred Astaire, and the mistresses of style, Ingrid Bergman and Audrey Hepburn. Bogey and Bergman’s great 1942 classic film, Casablanca, still inspires Casablanca theme parties. It’s not surprising. Forbes magazine has named the designer of Bogey’s tux one of America's top five tailors. And the designer of the Casablanca gowns later won three Oscars for Best Costume Design. But no film stars have ever matched the breathtaking poise and elegance of Fred Astaire and Audrey Hepburn. They were paired together for 1957’s Funny Face. No wonder the film’s two designers, Hubert de Givenchy and Edith Head, bagged the Oscar for Best Costume Design. Like it or not, your image is a communication tool, as important as everything else in your toolkit. It just makes sense to present yourself like a prospect, and not like a suspect. S

TOP PHOTO: KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY, STEINBERG PHOTO BARRIE WENTZELL

have attended an uncountable number of hair shows over the years, and because I love my chosen profession, I enjoy them all. But in May, I went to the biggest hair show I’ve ever experienced. The Premiere Hair Show in Orlando, Florida, is the largest beauty industry event in the United States. With an impressive talent roster that includes Canadians, it attracts more than 46,000 people from 15 countries. My favourite presentation was given by Redken spokesperson Ann Mincey, the former vice president of global communications for Redken. Her talk, called The Business of Beauty—The Client Experience, posed a very important question. Given the fact that people make value judgments about others within four seconds of meeting them, on what basis are those judgments made? Here’s what the statistics show: words used: six per cent, voice tone: 37 per cent, physical appearance: 57 per cent. Consider that for a moment. It means that when you present yourself to a client—or a prospective client—your physical appearance has more influence over the way they feel about you than anything else combined. There’s actually an Appearance Research Institute in the United States. Its director, Gordon Patzer, has written a book called Looks: Why They Matter More Than You Ever Imagined. In the book, Patzer states: “Almost from the moment of birth, each of us is judged—silently, unconsciously, and nearly instantly—on the basis of our height (or lack of it), our weight and bulk, the shape and symmetry of our facial features, the length and style of our hair, our mode of dress, our grooming—everything that goes into the mix of qualities known as ‘physical attractiveness.’ ” My mother would have appreciated this book. She often said, “Clothes maketh the man.” She insisted on good grooming— clean fingernails, polished shoes and neatly pressed clothes. Thank you, Mum. Of course there’s nothing you can do about your height, but as a friend of mine says, it’s not what you’ve got—it’s what you

John Steinberg, of John Steinberg and Associates, is part of Canada’s hair elite. He is currently celebrating 50 years in the beauty business. Check out johnsteinbergthelectures.com.

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