Salon Magazine, September 2011 by Salon Communications Inc.

l salon magazine

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

the business of canadian beauty and style

Must-have products, backstage at Fashion Week, plus all the latest in hair, makeup and nails for fall

Trend Report september 11 $5 salon52.ca

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HAIR Damien Carney COLOR Sue Pemberton PHOTO Hama Sanders

The FIRST of its kind: a luxury hair treatment clinically proven to INSTANTLY correct years of damage and protect against future damage.

Featuring patent-pending Keratin Peptide Complex™ to dramatically transform dry, damaged hair.

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the versatile style-care hybrid team of Potion 9 cream and the lightweight spray Potion 9 Lite. they create an endless universe of style – from sleek to voluminous, soft to textured. choose your look, and style to infinity.

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THE BIGGEST LAUNCH IN HISTORY NEW!

Why wait? It’s time to react 5 compact & complete ranges of products Simple, easy to retail Latest technology & ground-breaking performance Only the must haves

Total Results has brought new life to my retail area. The launch of the product line has created a buzz, not just because it’s new, but because of its remarkable quality at the remarkable price point! My clients responded through excellent sales, positive feedback and most importantly repeat purchases. What more can I ask for? Darek Wierzbicki Matrix Global Design Team Artist Owner, Studio 237, Belleville, ON Pilot Salon for Total Results

To order, please contact your Matrix sales representative:

Beauté Star Bédard 1-800-361-1978 QC

Beauty Systems Group 1-888-241-3330 BC, S. AB, SK, MB, ON

International Beauty Services 1-780-454-3388 North AB

East Coast Beauty 1-800-563-1900 NFLD

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BRING BACK RETAIL BUSINESS

A With Eva’s tousled look, you’d never know that every hair is shaped exactly how she wants it. New FREESHAPE hot flex spray creates unlimited style transformations that last up until the next wash.

FOR PROFESSIONAL STYLISTS AND THEIR CLIENTS.

SMART VINTAGE DARLING PREP SCHOOL PRINCESS A N D W HO

ARE YOU? w w w.kmscali fornia.com

For availability of KMS California products across Canada call KPSS Canada Ltd. Client Services: 1-877-670-6767

S California in Johnston Director, KM Name: Edw tic is rt A l na n: Internatio anada Occupatio le. Colombia, C out the peop aimo, British an N : n o it ti t; is also ab ar e Loca th t ou ab umbia It’s not only r British Col Philosophy: -time winne ur Fo d, , ar ar w Ye A the ontessa Hairstylist of ed Awards: C ar, Canadian Year and nam Ye e e th th of of t t lis lis ty rs ai H Hairsty ic e. ss azin mporary Cla rdresser Mag NAHA Conte Canadian Hai by t lis ty S al 2009 Editori

THERE IS NO LIMIT AS TO WHERE OR HOW YOU CAN BE INSPIRED

NO LIMITS

ABOUT ME

I take inspiration from many forms. Art, culture, design, fashion and nature have all provided me with various degrees of inspiration. To look at an object or a place and see it in a slightly different way than anyone else allows you to tap into your personal creativity. I believe it’s like anything in life: wherever you keep your focus, is where you get your results. So staying on your game and consistently looking for ideas is a great way to see the world around you differently. Get out from behind the chair, take a trip, go for a walk, visit an art gallery and do something to awaken the artist inside you. You’ll be glad you did and so will your clients.

STYLE IS SOMETHING VERY INDIVIDUAL. AFTER ALL, I OWN A SALON – NOT A COPY SHOP My inspiration is watching people be who they are; taking my skills and bringing out the beauty inside them. The ugly kid living inside of me motivates me to seek beauty wherever I look, whether I’m behind the chair or anywhere my travels take me. The amazing experiences I’ve had in my twenty one years as a hair stylist, six years of owning my salon, and working with my family at KMS California inspire me to push the limits, in sharing knowledge and striving for client satisfaction both in and out of the salon.

Name: Micha el Crispel Occupatio n: Artistic Te am Trainer, Location: KMS Californ Toronto, Ont ia ario, Canada Philosophy: Your happines s is my succ Credits: E ess. ditorial includ es E lle, Self, Flar Canadian Hai e, Modern S rdresser, Beh alon, ind the Chair. CTV, Global. Television in cludes

the sassoon creative team, u.k.

sEptEmbEr.11

l salon MAGAZINE

THE BUSINESS OF CANADIAN BEAUTY AND STYLE

fEaturEs

t rEnd tracking Bring the fall’s hottest looks into your salon. From hair to nails, here are the latest styles for your clients, straight from 2011’s best catwalks

diary

Backstage at LG Toronto Fashion Week

56 58

of a fashion WEEk stylist

lights, camEra, glamour! Behind the scenes at L’Oréal Professionnel’s latest photo shoot

runWay survival

hair collEctions

The latest styles from Charlie Price, Sassoon Creative Team, Simone Lee, John Steinberg & Associates, Mahogany Creative Team, Dee Parker, Angelo Seminara, L’Oréal Professionnel’s SocialLights and Canadian Style Masters’ winner Tim Kuo

inspiration in amstErdam Style Masters hits the European city, showing off hair from around the globe

london calling Aveda teams from around the world present their creative best

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

Must-have products, backstage at Fashion Week, plus all the latest in hair, makeup and nails for fall

Trend Report SEPTEMBER 11 $5 SALON52.CA

the belle collection hair: mahogany creative team, u.k. makeup: maddie austin styling: chloe holland photo: Jack Eames

Fashion show hairstylists dish out their secret "it" products and tools for backstage

salon > september 11

salon52.ca

Join UNITE’s Global Artistic Team for an amazing educational experience.

FEATURING ARTISTIC DIRECTORS FROM: UNITED STATES/NETHERLANDS/UNITED KINGDOM For more information or to reserve tickets call 888.95.UNITE x114 or visit www.uniteglobalsession.com UNITE® PROFESSIONAL SALON SYSTEM UNITEHAIR.COM

Trend Tracking

REGULARS 22

EDITOR’S LETTER

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

SALON52.CA

SocialLights

This month on salon52.ca

82 84

HAIRLINES Miracle Makers p. 33; Bright Lights, Big City p. 34; Uniting the Canadian Beauty Industry p. 34; Go Canada! p. 36; Designer Dress p. 36; Staff Fave: Hairsprays p. 36; TLC for Tired Hair p. 38; Blonde Bombshell p. 38; Building on Beauty p. 38; Help for Thinning Strands p. 38; Buckle Up p. 39; Cool Fall Nights p. 39; Snap, Crackle, Pop p. 39; Next Generation Nails p. 39; Toolbox: Blades of Steel p. 40; Colour Trophy Victors p. 40; Business: Dealing with Divas p. 42; Six new product picks p. 44

COLOUR

86 88

CONTESSA GALLERY

Simon Chercuitte of Saco in Montreal shares his Contessa 22 collection for Quebec Hairstylist of the Year

PROFILE

Salon owner and educator Rocky Vitelli shares his comeback after addiction

NAILS Learn how to recreate four hot new celebrity nail looks

ESTHETICS Spa services for clients battling cancer

INTERIORS

SCOOP

EVENTS

Achieving fall’s rich, bodacious brunette shades

Narcisse Aqua Spa & Coiffure, Montreal

Coverage of Premiere Orlando, Wella Trend Vision Workshop, L’Oreal Professionnel X-tenso Moisturist launch, Oribe Backstage Las Vegas, Luminato and more

Angelo Seminara

salon > september 11

106

LAST WORD by John Steinberg

33 HAIRLINES Essie’s 2011 fall collection, Brand New Bag

salon52.ca

CHARLIE PRICE Denver, CO, USA Awarded International Hairstylist of the Year in 2007 and member of the Style Masters Team

THE COLOMER GROUP

Professional styling to reinvent yourself everyday Revlon Professional brand introduces you to Style Masters: a new professional styling range created in collaboration with some of the best hairstylists in the world. Now you can take home the professional touch of your hairdresser. Reinterprete your cut, creating any look. Natural? Sophisticated? retro? With Style Masters your hairstyle adapts to your lifestyle. Ask your hairdresser for the best advice and reinvent yourself everyday.

EDITOR’S LETTER

Distributor Inquiries Welcome 22

salon > september 11

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, MAKEUP: LANAGMAKEUP.COM

Feed Your Passion

still remember the very first photo shoot I went to during my first job in publishing. I was thrilled to watch it all take place, from completing the makeup and the hair to staging the photos and reviewing the final choices. It was similar to how I felt when I was backstage at both Toronto’s fall/winter 2011 Fashion Week and Alternative Arts and Fashion Week. It’s fun to sit in the audience and watch a runway show, but it’s even better to spend the day behind the scenes, watching cool styles be created—and in a limited amount of time, to boot. Heidi Hurtarte, co-owner of Lift Salon & Spa in Toronto, was one of the Redken artists backstage at Alternative Fashion Week. She says it’s more creative than day-to-day life in the salon and that’s why she does it. “This is not like work, this is fun for me,” she says. Breaking out of the box and allowing yourself to satisfy your creativity and passion outside of the salon will only make your work better when you’re back behind the chair. You can find opportunities everywhere, whether it’s through working backstage at events like Fashion Week, doing editorial work or entering photo competitions like the Contessa Awards. Don’t discount yourself by saying you’re not ready. Just because you’re not creating styles for the Paris runway or the pages of Vogue, doesn’t mean you can’t find a local alternative as your outlet. Create a collection, even if you don’t end up doing anything more than adding it to your portfolio. If you don’t have the cash, work with people—makeup artists, photographers, nail techs and models— who are starting out in their careers. Everyone works together for free and gets images to add to their portfolios. Or look at your local newspapers and city magazines and contact them about doing hair, makeup or nails for their photo shoots, especially with back-to-school stories and the holidays on the horizon. And if doing hair live is your thing, you could volunteer for a local charity fashion show. Once you start looking, you’ll find the opportunities—and maybe even a new lease on life when it comes to your career!

Melissa Hill Editor Find me on Facebook at Facebook.com/salon52 or email me at Melissa@beautynet.com. salon52.ca

Stylist Phillip Wilson, and his weapon of choice.

At FHI Heat®, we make tools that empower stylists to reveal their creativity. The revolutionary KORE™ line of professional tools stays true to this mission by delivering innovative products and inspirational education. KORE celebrates the creativity and passion that fuels stylists to pursue their craft. Visit FHIHEAT.com to learn more about KORE™

SCAN LEARN ENGAGE

FOLLOW US ON: ©Joico® Laboratories, a division of Piidea Canada Ltd., Pointe-Claire, QC H9R 5N3 Printed in Canada HAIR Damien Carney COLOR Sue Pemberton PHOTO Hama Sanders

JOICO.COM

SET

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 20 issue 11

s a lo n 5 2 . ca

Editor

Melissa Hill > 416.869.3131 ext.102 | melissa@beautynet.com group Art dirECtor

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com Editor-in-ChiEf (frEnCh)

Yasmin Grothé > 514.553.4404 | yasmin@beautynet.com AssoCiAtE Editor

Noelle Stapinsky > 416.869.3131 ext.119 | noelle@beautynet.com onlinE Editor

Marlene Rego > 416.869.3131 ext.112 | marlene@beautynet.com dEsignEr

Elizabeth DiSilvestre > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | elizabeth@beautynet.com sEnior stAff writEr

Pam Fulford

There’s an app for that!

Jennifer D. Foster Contributors

Alexandra Innes, Alexandra Rule, Chris Tsintziras publishEr/prEsidEnt

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com dirECtor of sAlEs & businEss dEvElopMEnt

Jade Bateman > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | jade@beautynet.com sEnior ACCounts MAnAgEr

Samantha Anobile > 310.926.9288 | samantha@beautynet.com sAlEs AssoCiAtE

Megan Jeffery > 416.869.3131 ext. 220 | megan@beautynet.com produCtion MAnAgEr

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com opErAtions MAnAgEr

Karren Han > 416.869.3131 ext. 118 | karren@beautynet.com CirCulAtion MAnAgEr

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca finAnCE

Aylin Aykul > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | accountant@beautynet.com businEss AdMinistrAtor

Candice Besselaar > 416.869.3131 ext.108 | candice@beautynet.com ChAirMAn

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com viCE-prEsidEnt & wEst CoAst Editor

Greg Robins > 604.561.4971 | greg@beautynet.com

subsCription rAtEs for CAnAdA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 + tax 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 HST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location for us 1 year (8 issues) $50 USd PHOTO: ALvARO GOvEiA, MAkEUP: LANAGMAkEUP.COM

little history trip—Salon Magazine launched its first website, Beautynet, in 1997. It was a pretty big leap, as only major companies had websites at the time. I was so proud to work with a company that was so progressive. Salon Magazine quickly established itself as an online forerunner. Although Beautynet was successful, the professional beauty industry as a whole was slow to embrace the Internet. Fastforward to 2011, and we’re in a whole new world. The web is an every day part of the beauty pro’s life. Salon Magazine’s award-winning website and weekly e-newsletter reach thousands of readers. Many salons have computers with Internet access, but even this is becoming yesterday’s news, as social media has taken over. Today’s beauty professionals are using Facebook and Twitter to run promotions, interact with clients and fill appointments during slow periods in the salon. And for the next game changer in the beauty industry? It’s the smartphone. Landlines are becoming obsolete as mobile phones are used exclusively. The smartphone is also changing how we interact. Recently, when one of my co-workers had a manicure at Tips Nail Bar, owner Leanne Colley whipped out her iPhone to snap a photo of the cool mani and post it on her blog. Now that’s using technology! And anyone can do it. Everyone has his or her own little computer stuck in a back pocket, with access 24-7. The key to accessing the massive online world through the smartphone is with apps. We’ve all seen the ads from Apple. Whether you’re looking for a street map, a restaurant or simply want to play a game, you can find an application in the App Store to help you do it. And with 23,148 apps being downloaded every minute, it’s a technology that is not going away. That’s why we're so thrilled to introduce the Salon Magazine app. Now with a tap on your iPhone, you’ll have instant access to thousands of fabulous collections and up-to-the minute information on industry news and events. You can even share what you find on Facebook and Twitter with a simple click. So go to the iTunes store now to download your free Salon Magazine app. Check it out and let us know how you like it!

Copy Editor

AddrE ss C hA n gE s Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca

Fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

Phone: 905.729.1288

PO Box 357, Beeton, ON L0G 1A0 Canada sA l on MAg AZ in E

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Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation department, Salon Magazine, PO Box 357, Beeton, ON, L0G 1A0 Canada

national Magazine Awards Gold

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Top Five

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Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

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This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

Laura Dunphy Publisher

salon > september 11

printed in C A N A d A

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

salon52.ca

SAY GOOD-BYE SCAN. WATCH. LEARN.

cnd.com

september 11

collections > news+events > contessas > features > videos > blog > contests + more

s52 collections > SIMONE LEE > ANGELO SEMINARA > L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL > MAHOGANY CREATIVE TEAM > CHARLIE PRICE > SASSOON CREATIVE TEAM > JOHN STEINBERG & ASSOCIATES > TIM KUO

Quiz: GUESS THE CELEB MANICURE!

Ten celebs posted pics of their famous nails on Twitter. Can you tell who’s behind the twitpic? Head to salon52.ca/celebnails to play along!

Straight to your inbox! See the latest collections, find out about our newest contests and giveaways, and keep up with beauty news by signing up for our FREE weekly e-newsletter! Go to salon52.ca/subscribe and sign up today.

talk to us!

WE WANT TO HEAR WHAT YOU HAVE TO SAY!

salon > september 11

MODEL PHOTO: THE BELLE COLLECTION, HAIR: MAHOGANY, CREATIVE TEAM, U.K., MAKEUP: MADDIE AUSTIN, STYLNG: CHLOE HOLLAND, PHOTO: JACK EAMES, TWITTER IMAGES: COURTESY OF TWITTER

salon52.ca what’s on

salon52.ca

• On Like Polish

UV3 Technology • Wears Like Gel • Off In Minutes (Really!) patent pending

SAY HELLO TO CND SHELLAC.

Now in 30 gorgeous shades. Layer them to create dozens more! SCAN. WATCH. LEARN.

cnd.com

Born from the same philosophy as skin care and inspired by natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best, the KEVIN. MURPHY range is an indulgence of runway looks and natural aromatherapy catered for every hair type. The products are made from renewable and sustainable resources whenever possible, using pure essential oils, plant extracts and natural antioxidants. All KEVIN.MURPHY hair products are sulphate and paraben free.

NEW FROM KEVIN.MURPHY Restore and revive locks with YOUNG.AGAIN. The weightless leave-in treatment oil counteracts the oxidation and aging process caused by styling tools and colour. It smoothes and provides heat protection and aids in the restoration of elasticity

LIQUID LUXURIES SALON SYSTEMS ONTARIO & MARITIMES 800-387-2962 INTERNATIONAL BEAUTY SERVICES ALBERTA, SASKATCHEWAN & MANITOBA 800-642-3818 WEST COAST BEAUTY BRITISH COLUMBIA 800-661-2707

KEVIN.MURPHY www.kevinmurphy.com.au

hairlines

news

Miracle Makers

photos courtesy of matrix

salon52.ca

atrix Canada has officially launched its new Total Results product line, available in five ranges designed for different hair types. Each range— Moisture, Colour Care, Sleek, Amplify and Curl—features a power product with unique technology to enhance and provide dramatic results. The five Total Miracle products are Moisture Cure 2-Phase Treatment for dry hair, Miracle Treat 12 Lotion Spray for colour-treated hair, Silk Wonder smoothing oil to tame unruly tresses, Wonder Boost Root Lifter for fine hair and Super Defrizzer Gel to control curls without the crunch. “The Silk Wonder oil, infused with shea butter and olive oil, repairs the hair and resists frizz up to 24 hours,” says Nancy Picard, Matrix Canada education manager for Quebec. The full Total Results line includes shampoos, conditioners, stylers and treatments. Retail prices are around $10 per product, giving clients affordable access to salon professional products and offering stylists a retail line for their budget-minded customers. The new line also has a salon-exclusive treatment called Prosolutionist. “It’s part of the colour-treated range that offers deep nourishing treatments,” says Picard.

september 11 < salon

HAIRLINES

news

Bright Lights, Big City

Uniting the Canadian Beauty Industry Ready to flex your muscle as a beauty professional? A new association promises to unite beauty professionals across Canada, creating one strong voice to advocate and raise the level of professionalism in the industry. The Cosmetology Allied Beauty Association (CABA) will offer business programs, insurance and benefits programs and an opportunity for cosmetologists to interact. "It's time for our professional beauty industry to gain the respect it deserves amongst other professional trades,” says John Costanza from Beauty Systems Group. “CABA, as an extension of the ABA (Allied Beauty Association), will have a mission to create one voice across the nation, representing all beauty professionals.”

salon > september 11

Salon industry leaders, including Leopold Bissonnette, Anna Pacitto, John Donato and Kelly Kalmbach, were part of the committee formed to help establish guidelines. Ian Marc Smith, from Imagine Salon & Spa in Nova Scotia, and Shelley Murphy, of L'Oréal Professionnel, will be acting as CABA spokespeople. "As a salon owner and stylist, and having been the president of our provincial Cosmetology Association, I am thrilled to see the formation of CABA,” says Smith. “The opportunity to develop Canadian trends in hair, skin and nails will be invaluable to us as a country and on a global basis. The association will allow professionals to share with like-minded members and impact decisions on a federal level.”

PHOTO: CONTESSA 22, ALINA SULAIMAN, TAO SALON, VANCOUVER, BC, MAKEUP: JENA JACQUOT, PHOTO: TOBIAS SCHUCH

his year's annual Contessa gala honouring the best in Canada's professional beauty industry will be held in Toronto on October 30. Join us for the most glamourous beauty gala of the year as we announce the winners in 23 categories, including Canadian Hairstylist of the Year! The event will be at the Sheraton Centre Hotel (123 Queen Street West) and this year's theme is Cities After Dark. Tickets go on sale September 6, 2011. For tickets, call 416-869-3131, x. 108 or email contessas@beautynet.com.

salon52.ca

OPI FALL/WINTER 2011 COLOR CHART

36-PC DISPLAY

12-PC DISPLAY

90-PC DISPLAY LACQUERS FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: Are We There Yet?, I Eat Mainely Lobster, My Address is “Hollywood,” Color to Diner For, Honk If You Love OPI, Road House Blues, Suzi Takes the Wheel, French Quarter for Your Thoughts, Uh-Oh Roll Down the Window, A-taupe the Space Needle, Get in the Expresso Lane, I Brake for Manicures

If color chart has been removed, contact your Authorized OPI Distributor to receive yours.

HAIRLINES

news

Go, Canada!

stafffave

Congratulations to the Canadian finalists for this year’s Goldwell Color Zoom. They'll be competing in the International Color Zoom competition, which will be held in Miami's South Beach on October 16.

Candice Besselaar Business Administrator

This month I can’t live without… Hairsprays!

Partner finalist, Chelsea Sutherland, The Hair Factory, St. John’s, Nfld.

New Talent finalist Alison Bradbury, The Hair Force, Mt. Pearl, Nfld.

Go to Salon52.ca after the awards for a full list of winners. Creative finalist Jennifer Knocton, Spirit Spa, Halifax

Designer Dress

Think fast! You’re in the studio, ready to shoot your latest work. One tiny problem: the clothing stylist bailed. If you happen to be Tony “MacGyver” Jorge, the answer is simple. Grab two copies of Salon Magazine, some tape and a stapler, and fashion together a very cool (and eco-friendly!) dress. “I thought, ‘The shoot must go on,' and I figured I'd make something,” says Jorge. “I created the wardrobe in about 20 minutes." The result? A shot we’re fairly crazy over!

salon > september 11

s someone who uses a lot of hairspray every day, I like to have several on hand. Luckily, there are so many options right now—and different types for nearly any style you can dream up. Here are four current favourites. The Joico Design Collection spray smells great and has a flexible but strong hold. The Revlon Professional Style Masters Modular holds all day, but is still soft. Redken's Forceful 23 eliminates the fly-aways in updos, but can still be brushed out at the end of the day. Schwarzkopf Professional’s OSiS+ Session Spray lasts all day, keeping every hair in place, even in strong winds.

Hair and Photos: Tony Jorge Makeup: Stephanie Bulmer

What's your favourite hairspray? Go to Facebook.com/Salon52 and tell us for a chance to win one of these four sprays. salon52.ca

HAIRLINES

product launches

TLC for Tired Hair

oico’s new RevitaLuxe Bio Advanced Restorative Treatment is the perfect solution for summer-stressed strands. It repairs and restores damaged hair instantly by reconstructing the hair from the inside out, plus offers cumulative benefits with regular use. RevitaLuxe is ideal for a home treatment or can also be used in-salon, pre- or post-chemical service. Find out more at joico.com.

Blonde Bombshell Pureology’s new Perfect for Platinum product range is specially designed to care for high-lift, highlighted and colourtreated blondes. Targeting hair that has been lifted four or more levels, the line helps strands with increased porosity, weakened fibres and reduced shine. The products use keravis to plump keratin gaps and increase strength. The new line includes Reconstruct and Repair Concentrate Treatment, an emergency repairing treatment and Miracle Filler, which protects bleached hair from mechanical damage and stress. For more, go to Pureology.com.

Building on Beauty

Orofluido has expanded its product line, producing a new range that complements its star product, Beauty Elixir. The line now includes a shampoo, conditioner, shine spray and hair mask. The balanced blend of oils draws on ancient beauty rituals and is a refreshing treat for all hair types. For more, go to orofluido.com.

Help for Thinning Strands

Coming Soon…

Nioxin has redesigned its range of Scalp and Hair Care Systems to better help clients with thin-looking hair. The six new threepart systems—comprised of cleanser, scalp therapy and treatment available in different formulas—deliver thicker, denser-looking hair in 30 days. Nioxin is also offering increased stylist education, including information on the causes of thin-looking hair, the science behind the products and coaching on how to effectively broach the topic with clients. For more information, visit nioxin.com.

KMS California has repackaged and relaunched its product line, available this fall. The new streamlined range is inspired by the colourful diversity of people and their distinct expressions of style. Look for more in our October issue.

salon > september 11

salon52.ca

hairlines

nail launches

Buckle Up

he newly launched Touring America Collection by OPI has it all, from pearl grey to luminous orange, combining comfortable glamour and wearable elegance in 12 new season-ready shades. The theme of the collection is highlighted with names including My Address is Hollywood, a vivid rose, and Get in the Expresso Lane, an amped-up dark brown. Fun fact: The theme and palette of colours were inspired by the rich cultural heritage and Americana seen on a road trip taken by OPI artistic director Suzi Weiss-Fischmann.

Cool Fall Nights

E Snap, Crackle, Pop

ruNway photo Courtesy oF opi

ssie has launched its 2011 fall collection, Brand New Bag, consisting of six creamy shades reminiscent of autumn. The lineup recalls the graceful styles of the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;40s and â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;50s, and was inspired by the simple elegance and clean lines of postSecond World War fashion. It combines classic sophistication and contemporary cool to produce a selection of shades including Carry On, a magnetic mulberry merlot and Case Study, a rich camel beige.

salon52.ca

Next Generation Nails

China Glaze has added six new shades to its popular collection of Crackle Glaze polishes. The Metals collection pairs metallics with the shatter effect of crackle. Colours include honeyed Tarnished Gold, shimmering Platinum Pieces and pale-pink Haute Metal.

LCN has launched its new X-Tame UV Colour Polish. The non-solvent and non-acetone based system is a durable, healthier choice for techs and clients, and comes in a range of high-quality colours. The starter kit includes six shades, a clear base and a clear topcoat.

september 11 < salon

HAIRLINES

toolbox

Blades of Steel When it comes to precision cutting, having the right tools in hand makes all the difference.

UNITE Pro-System 58 scissors are made with a blend of 440 C silver label steel and Kieski steel.

With a crane handle, the ProSystems 58 are made for the right-handed stylist. Hand-finished for perfect balance and weight distribution, these shears are made in Japan by the same steelmakers who craft samurai swords.

This razor can be used in either hand and on either side, producing clean, even cuts.

news

Colour Trophy Victors

ongratulations to this year’s L’Oréal Professionnel Colour Trophy winners! The theme was primitive beauty, linking the trend of fashion and hair with a raw edge. From Blainville, Que.-based Le Salon Sugar, Gretta Kalaidjian won the first place L’Oréal Colour Trophy, as well as Best Photo Entry, Editor’s Choice and Regional Gold for Quebec. The second place L’Oréal Trophy went to Oblic Salon Spa Urbain in Montreal for hairstylist Isabelle Lachance and colourist Vanessa Opale Bégin’s entry. This salon also won the People’s Choice award and the Next Generation award— which was for a look styled by Genevieve Dubois and colourist Tommy Tremblay. And the third place L’Oréal Trophy was awarded to Mont-Saint-Hilaire, Que.-based Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs’

Annick Laviolette and colourist Caroline Landry. For the Men’s Colour category, Loyal Hair Therapy from British Columbia took the top honour with a chic style by Loyal Wooldridge and colourist Sheldon Doege. This prestigious annual awards show—hosted at Montreal’s Palais des Congrès— featured some of Canada’s top names sharing the stage with Christophe Gaillet, a renowned hairstylist, L’Oréal ambassador for the past 20 years and a founding member of La Haute Coiffure Française.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

HAIRLINES

Dannyco TWO-INONE razor features a double-usage blade.

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salon > september 11

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HAIRLINES

business

Dealing with Divas Feeling held hostage by a brilliant but difficult employee? Here’s how to tackle the setback—without pulling out any hair!

Tips for a Great Team Optimal screening. When hiring, focus on questions that pertain to teamwork and customer experience. Corporate culture. What image do you want your salon to project? Are all staff members on board with this vision? Follow through. Don't just talk about addressing certain issues, take action. Otherwise, you lose control and respect. Direct action. Plain and simple work best. But always remember to be polite and professional.

Spotting the diva:

• Has a passive-aggressive attitude • Displays top-dog syndrome • Makes others feel insecure • Requires multiple assistants – at all times!

salon > september 11

high-octane creativity. But make no mistake— whoever it is, the bottom line is that the diva must be managed. And pronto! If you don’t act fast, the damage can undermine years of good management. Smooth operator Experts all seem to agree that before doing something drastic you might later regret, it’s usually best to sit down with the challenging party and try to find out where the exasperating attitude is coming from. Years of experience have taught Mahoney that, “this type of behaviour usually stems from insecurity and fear. Find out what this employee’s goals are. Is it more money or more artistic freedom she is looking for? Is this person a natural leader? If she is and feels stifled because nobody lets her be responsible, she will develop acrimonious behaviour, which will, in turn, hurt team morale and, ultimately, your business.” The key: Focus on something important for your stylist and work on helping her or him achieve that goal. A good, open conversation will help dissipate tension and can make both your business and your staff grow. Now that’s a win-win situation! “Nobody wants to lose good employees. Particularly in the salon world, where great staff is hard to find,” says Latucca. Take the time to go over the issues at hand, not just in the backroom over a 15-minute break, but, rather, at lunch or dinner. And definitely off salon premises. Another setting often does wonders to help ease tensions. But when everything fails, is termination an option? If you know you’ve done your best to open up, to reinforce positive behaviour and the situation continues to deteriorate, maybe it’s time to say goodbye, both for the benefit of the business and staff morale. It’s called tough love. And, no, it’s not easy.

TEXT: YASMIN GROTHÉ, PHOTO: THINKSTOCK

e’ve all seen it, time and time again. A sometimes stellar member of your team suddenly develops an attitude. She’s aloof and arrogant. Staff morale is down, and the situation is explosive. But exactly how damaging can this be to your business? According to Peter Mahoney, president of SCI Inc., one of the most respected salon consulting companies in North America, “It hurts everybody because the energy in the salon is not the best. Clients want to go back to your salon because they feel good in that environment. When you have one person running the show, it’s not good for business.” Catherine Latucca, who has been managing upscale salons for more than 20 years and is the present owner of La Coupe, an iconic salon that has been in business since the ‘60s in Montreal, is adamant. “You have to take a good, hard look at the mission and corporate culture of your salon,” she says. Understanding who you are as a business is key to knowing how much pull and push you should be willing to take." What’s more, says Latucca, “the client is the main reason we exist as a salon, and we have to ensure they get the very best experience every time they come in for a service, despite any internal issues which might exist at staff level.” Some tend to think the most challenging employee is the one with the big ego, the great artistic vision and the high ambitions. Not so. Mahoney says that less than five per cent of difficult staff fits this description. What’s even more unsettling is the fact that the diva may come in many shapes and forms. Basically, they’re hard to pinpoint from the get-go. He may not even be your best stylist. She may have decades of experience, or just be the new kid on the block who has gained praise from clients who like her fresh, infectious energy and

salon52.ca

INTRODUCING SUPERGLUE FROM AMERICAN CREW

With its extreme hold and shine, Superglue lets you create looks never before possible. The highest pompadours. The most gravity-defying sweeps. And looks that are anything but dull. If your clients want styles that get noticed, and if you want to create looks that stand as art, Superglue is your ticket to the edge. Ask your sales representative for American Crew Superglue. FOR INQUIRIES PLEASE CALL 1.800.387.7980

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shelf life

Six new products your clients will love 3

hit the beach Get the look of loose, carefree curls and texture with Kevin.Murphy’s Hair. Resort.Spray. The fragrant volumizing formula uses honey, citrus and tangerine to create sexy surfer looks. Info: kevinmurphy.com.au

get a grip Sculpt, define and add shine to manly coifs with American Crew Superglue. Apply this gel generously to towel-dried hair before having your way with it. Info: americancrew.com

1 4

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Squeaky clean Body Drench Green Tea + Bamboo Moisturizing Body Scrub exfoliates while gently cleansing away impurities. Info: bodydrench.com

Straight talk Alcove’s Smoothing Lotion uses Oligo Professionnel’s exclusive microcapsule technology. It smoothes curls, tames frizz and controls waves for a longlasting straight look that’s humidity-resistant. Info: oligoprofessionnel.com

Soak it in This vegan, multi-purpose hand, body and foot bath conditioner by SpaRitual uses jasmine essential oil for a calm, soothing soak for manicures, pedicures and even at home, for a nice relaxing bath. Info: sparitual.com S

Photo: Chris tsintziras text: noelle staPinsky

clean livin’ Mixed Chicks Sulfate Free Shampoo for chemically treated hair mildly cleanses without stripping natural oils, using a mix of aloe and oils from olives, avocados and sweet almonds. Info: mixedchicks.net

To find out how you can win the products from this page, go to Facebook.com/salon52.

salon > september 11

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fall

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• news • events • collections • contessas • video • news • events • collections • contessas • video •

Same amazing magazine. Now in your pocket. Get the brand new Salon Magazine app for your iPhone for free! Browse the latest collections and keep up with industry news. Check event listings, watch videos plus get the latest Contessa details–all at your ﬁngertips. Share what you discover on your Facebook or Twitter account. Now available on iTunes. *Non iPhone users can now view a mobile friendly version of our website too!

• news • events • collections • contessas • video • news • events • collections • contessas • video •

Collections

PHOTOS: CONTESSA 22 WINNERS. FOR FULL CREDITS SEE PAGE 102.

Tony Ricci

Lina Shamoun

Robert Barbosa

TRENDS

Oliver Miotto

Michelle Pargee

Sylvain Beller...

Gian Paulo Co...

Uyen Huynh

Christopher De...

• news • events • collections • contessas • video • news • events • collections • contessas • video •

n Runway

Report The beauty beat of the season:

Trend Tracking

Bring this fall’s hottest looks into your salon. From hair to nails, here are the latest styles for your clients, straight from 2011’s best catwalks.

• A new palette of browns • Bolder brows • Colourful, textured nails used as accessories

• Feathers as hair accents • Spidery lashes

Tempting Tresses Starting off the fall lineup, chunky and chic or thinner and feathered braids are the readyto-go hair of the season. “To add a feeling of ‘tribal-coolness’ we plaited a braid on each side of the head, then gathered the bottom half of the hair along with the braids to create a long ponytail with a bungee band,” says Nick Irwin with the TIGI Creative team at London Fashion Week. Butch/Femme Short, sleek hairstyles ruled

salon > september 11

the runway in Milan. Quiffs were all the rage at Dolce & Gabbana, where Redken's Guido Palau pinned up a French twist, leaving out small wisps of hair, which he coated with styling wax to create "mock" sideburns. Not for the faint of heart… "Handsome beauty" is how Wella global creative director Eugene Souleiman dubbed the new look. The Big Tease Fall’s '60s-inspired bouffants mean the return of hairspray. Big time. The look is either

total glam–Hitchcock heroine– or more nonchalant and dishevelled. Think 3 am hair after a wild party on the town. Sam McKnight added coloured streaks to his ratted-out hair rolls at Fendi. Uptown Updos The Mad Men saga continues on the catwalk with '60s flashbacks reminiscent of a more formal and elegant era. At Toronto Fashion Week, a threetiered, superbly executed updo– complete with a dainty bow of hair on a bouffant crown–

perfectly embodies the mood. “The Jason Wu hair for this season is elegantly chic—like a piece of art. The ends of the hair are coated in 24-karat gold leaf and shaped like a feather, echoing the gold accents and feathers from the collection.” - Odile Gilbert for Aveda Feeling Gilt In step with the 24-karat gold facial of this year, hair takes on a decidedly luxe tangent for fall, particularly at New York Fashion week.

photos: Ryan FRancoz, mensweaR photo couRtesy oF Revlon, gold gilt photo couRtesey oF aveda

Ladylike (or Not)

salon52.ca

For the Boys Deconstruct and Disconnect “Just like for women, men’s hair tends to be structured, yet disconnected, giving it a messy, wavy look," says Joshua Gambrell, a Eufora stylist from Lotus Salon in New York City. Jorge João, Redken artist and owner of KOI Hair Studio in Brampton, Ont. agrees. “We’re seeing tapered and short, but with length on top. Long fringes and sweeps that are

versatile and can be worn up, but also down. There’s a lot of disconnection with a rockabilly, James Dean inspiration.” The Guy Pony While a ponytail for women continues to be popular, the guy pony is even hotter. “Last season, everyone looked like they just walked out of a sawmill, wearing plaid shirts, beards and messy hair. This season, they’re clean-shaven

and the hair is neat," says Gambrell. Retro Style “The men’s shorter hair trend is still pulling influence from Mad Men. But this fall’s take on it has the hair on top getting longer and the sides getting shorter," says Gambrell. "It’s an exaggeration of what we’ve seen in the past. The sides are shaved, but it does have clean lines. Men can use pomade to slick it back when

they’re wearing a suit or going to work. If they’re in a rock band on the weekend, they can wear it messy, with a lot of texture."

“At Christian Dior, we saw a type of wet look with a distinct part. Hair seems to be going from one extreme to the other, either a style like this or dry, textured, disconnection.” - Jorge João

Face Framers “The strong brow is making a comeback, almost an androgynous look,” says Melanie White, Contessa Makeup Artist of the Year 2011. “And you’ll see your usual fall palette of coppers, avocado, violet and khakis.” The Eyes Have It White predicts that there will be neutral lips with a bit of gloss—a flashback to the '60s—with

salon52.ca

more attention put on the eyes, which will be glossy, as well. Free for All “There are no rules this season in terms of a bold eye with soft lips or bold lips and soft eyes. Anything goes,” says Eryn Shannon, a Push The Talent makeup artist who worked backstage at Jeremy Laing, Alexander Wang, Alice + Olivia, Creatures of the Wind and Donna Karan this year.

Bold is Beautiful According to Shannon, the hottest fall trend is a bold lip with colours ranging from red to deep purple. “Deep '90s grunge-inspired plum lips, neutral monochromatic brown tones for eyes, lips and cheeks, and metallic shades of silver and gold will be the hot colours this fall," she says. Or try a deep berry-stained lip with gilded metallic eyes and skin. "As long as you balance the look and

stick to the same colour family— such as all cool tones or all warm tones—it will work,” she says. Finger Painting Both makeup artists agree on finger application. “Working with the warmth of your fingers with cream-based products will help achieve this season’s looks. The makeup should look like a stain,” says Shannon. t

photos: Ryan FRancoz, top Right photo couRtesy oF Redken

Fall Faces

september 11 < salon

Head to Toe “One of the big trends I saw was that designers went for length because they wanted to create drama. They went for texture and multi-dimensional colour. It was rare that we did one solid colour on a short nail. Minimalism is completely dead. Over-the-top, lavish adornment is what’s coming for fall,” says CND founder Jan Arnold.

copper shimmer over it to knock it down a bit with some grit. Here, there’s a little dash of gold and a sharp shape.”

Jan Arnold’s favourite runway looks:

Ruffian “An asphalt base with lavender shimmer over it turns it into violet metallic. They wanted to bring out the masculine side in nails.”

Urban Armour “Joan of Arc nails and the embellisments in jewellery are very medieval. We put

Neutrals “The neutral trend that started in 2011 will continue throughout 2012, adding shades of taupe and khaki to the current favourites in nude, tan and grey.”

salon > september 11

Pop of Colour “Coral shades in pink and orange hues have been huge for spring, and we’ll continue to see this shade through fall. Red will also appear in 2012 as an accent shade to add a bright pop of richly-pigmented colour; try Color to Diner for from OPI’s Touring America collection for fall/winter 2011.” -Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, executive VP and artistic director for OPI “Essie’s going back to classics for fall, with six new shades that take their inspiration from handbags. Everything old is new again. Leather purses and jackets translate into very luxurious and creamy tones. There’s a lot of lace on the runway, and I saw tuxedo dressing as well. In terms of colour, we’re seeing burnt sienna, and plum shades.” - Stephanie Nguyen, marketing co-ordinator for Essie S

photos courtesy of cnd, opi, star nail

Red Hot and Metallic “Nail art has become a very popular accessory on the runways. Fall is going to bring reds back—red is an endless colour—it goes with any type of nail art and makes for a sultry, bold statement. Also metallics are really in this fall. Glamming up your nails for the winter season is a great way to accessorize. A simple little addition of nail art on a ring finger really makes the nails pop! Or even painting the nails all one colour and the ring finger a brighter contrasting colour really is a fun and fashionable way to make the nails stylish!” -Arica Carpenter, PR and Marketing for Star Nail International/ Cuccio Naturale

Smoky “Hazy look, kind of inspired by the '70s. With nails today you really want to think through how you’re using them to complement the total look.”

salon52.ca

SCRUNCH ME PREP ME,TEASE ME INTRODUCING NEW

FIXATIONS PLAYFUL STYLING PRODUCTS FOR THE ULTIMATE, DELECTABLE TEXTURE EXPERIENCE

■ Runway

Report

Diary of a Fashion Week Stylist A behind-the-scenes look at LG Toronto Fashion Week

By Melissa Hill • Photography by Ryan Francoz Dee Dagher’s Workstation

each year, ■ For two weeks at

a stylist Dee Dagher, elo Studio em D Brennen a Rowenta in Toronto and , gives up her st ti platform ar LG s backstage at chair and head ike nl U k. ee W n Toronto Fashio shows, where other fashion their own hair designers hire g gners showin si stylists, all de e m sa e th k with in Toronto wor el D ic Er t is styl team, led by cked stylists are pi Monaco. The o, ac on M by Del each season e last th d ke or w s and Dagher ha s. several season

12:10 pm

11:15 am

10:30 am

■ At the beginning of the day, Del Monaco gathers stylists for the daily briefing. He runs through the plans for the day's shows and each stylist has the looks recorded in a briefing book for reference.

12:35 pm

12:43 pm ■ Del Monaco finishes his demo, and

Dagher moves back to her station to wait for her model. Runway work is hurry up and wait.

salon > september 11

■ The first style is a sleek ponytail with a few, rough flyaways around the face. Dagher quickly finishes her model for the first show, which begins at 1 pm, then waits for the models for the next show.

■ Still no models; they’re all in makeup. Del Monaco moves on to show the look for SHAN—a big beachy style, perfect for the swimwear designs. It's all created with roller sets; no irons here.

■ Before styling for

the next show, LABEL, everyone gathers around Del Monaco while he demonstrates the look: a combination of texture, twists and braids.

1:02 pm

■ While her SHAN model's rollers set, Dagher finally gets a model for the LABEL show. The model's makeup isn't done, so the makeup artist continues to work while Dagher starts on the hair.

salon52.ca

1:04 pm

1:33 pm n Dagher doesn’t

1:30 pm

need to worry about overloading on product and brushing it out later, since it's this model's last show of the day.

n Dagher’s not finished with

the LABEL look, but her model is called away for a quick runthrough. The stylists all take the opportunity for a five-minute lunch break.

n Dagher’s roommate and fellow stylist, Veronika Sorek, dishes on a favourite snack backstage: all-dressed chips. Another stylist Shawna Neggers claims, “All we do is eat junk." On cue, stage manager Eric brings around the snack bin.

1:40 pm

n Models are back and ready to be finished. The stylists speed up with a sense of urgency to get the models completed for the 2 pm show.

1:36 pm

1:44 pm

headed model, gets a quick thumbsup from Del Monaco and sends the model off to get dressed for the show.

1:50 pm

n Another model for the SHAN show arrives in Dagher’s chair, ready for a roller set. Sorek and Neggers pitch in to help.

n A model for the Chloe comme Paris show lands in Dagher’s chair next. Hair has a wet-look and is parted down the middle and loosely tied in back. 2:25 pm

n Dagher finishes with her red-

n Backstage is humming with activity and a little bit of underlying urgency. Dagher is worried about her model's roller set, since she came in with hair flat-ironed stick straight. Dagher uses extra spray and decides to leave the rollers in until the last minute. Her model heads to makeup, while Dagher grabs a break.

3:57 pm

3:02 pm n Hair for the Chloe show is done. For the next hour, Dagher and the rest of the stylists sit and hang out with not a lot to do.

n Del Monaco gathers the stylists for a

discussion about the 6 pm Korhani show, which will have the most detailed looks of the day.

4:24 pm 4:51 pm

show are wearing carpets fashioned into a range of styles including '50s poodle skirts and tribal capes. This model’s long locks will be formed into an exaggerated bouffant for a tribal look.

salon52.ca

n The bouffant is done

and approved. She's ready for her next model, who will get the same style. Lots of backcombing and hairspray required to get the right shape. t

n Models for the Korhani

september 11 < salon

6:12 pm 5:55 pm

5:09 pm

■ Another stylist

meeting with Del Monaco. He demonstrates the high topknot required for Pink Tartan’s show: a vertical ballerina’s bun sitting on top of the head, parallel with the ears.

■ Second bouffant done and approved.

■ Dagher spots fashion photographer friend, Renata Kabeh, backstage. They worked last summer doing model testing and discovered this girl at a bus stop. Eight months later, that girl, Paris (above and right), is in Toronto, walking in her first fashion week shows during a break from high school classes back home in Winnipeg. 6:45 pm

7:04 pm

■ Dagher is still working on her model's topknot, recreating it for the third time. The stylist for the designer, who is giving approvals for this show instead of Del Monaco, keeps asking for it to be higher.

■ Dagher’s model from the Korhani show returns.

She’s also walking in the 7:30 pm Pink Tartan show, and her backcombed bouffant has to be brushed out and pulled into a topknot. It's sprayed with water before styling so it can then be quickly blown out into loose, soft waves for her third show of the day, Joe Fresh at 8:30 pm.

■ After a

fourth try and a knot that looks nearly identical to the first one she created, Dagher gets the ok.

■ More

modifications are made to the updo.

7:50 pm ■ Dagher gets it approved and

heads out for a short break. After so much activity, the backstage area is winding down for the night.

salon > september 11

7:21 pm

9:05 pm

7:16 pm 8:30 pm ■ One last model and Dagher’s day is wrapped. She completes the male model’s style for the BUSTLE show and then waits for Del Monaco’s final de-brief.

7:38 pm

■ A model for the Joe Fresh show sits down

next. The look is straight hair, with a slight kink mid-way down the shaft. ■ With Joe Fresh models taking to the runway fashionably late and the styles for the last show completed, Dagher cleans up her area. In the main hall, Toronto's beautiful people buzz on cocktails and settle in for the last shows, while the stylists and makeup artists slip out the back door, ready to begin again tomorrow. S

salon52.ca

Ana is wearing SpaRitual Nail Lacquer in Sacred Ground.

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What is a #SocialLight? A true #SocialLight knows glamorous parties come and go, but party photos live forever. They say a photo is worth a thousand words–and now, a few tweets, blog posts and Likes, too.

• facebook.com/LOrealProCanada • lorealprosociallights.blogspot.com • youtube.com/LOrealProCa • Check out pg. 74 for the finished looks

Lights, Camera, Glamour! Behind the scenes in Montreal for L’Oréal Professionnel’s latest shoot

potted: six smashing party looks created to highlight six different girls for their VIP night out about town. From coquette to boho-bourgeois, hair is alive with texture, movement and gorgeous, vibrant colour. Pop princess or studded vixen? It’s all about glam and red-carpet parties! Salon Magazine was invited to the set for a look behind the scenes at the making of SocialLights, L’Oréal Professionnel’s newest collection. The Gossip Girl-worthy images were created and shot by the team in a grandiose Montreal mansion that has also served as the backdrop for countless photo and video shoots in the last decade, as well as the acclaimed film The Aviator by Martin Scorsese. According to marketing director Minh Dan Tran, “This is the first ever Canadian holiday collection from L’Oréal Professionnel, and we are very proud to give it a lot of clout with a multiplatform marketing campaign, including in-salon merchandising and an important social media aspect. We wanted to build this collection with a big dose of fun, fashion and glamour.” The hair was created by stylists Colin Ford and Patrick Nadeau. Ford is director of education and events for the company, while Nadeau is an ambassador for the brand and a member of the creative team at Montreal's Orbite salon. The concept for the collection is giving women the tools they need, including the products sold in salons, and the know-how to create their very own celebrity look for the party season. Retail holiday boxes include a SocialLights lookbook detailing step-by-step hairstyling instructions to recreate the six styles from the collection, as well as makeup tips, online videos (accessible via QR codes) and a behind-thescenes video on YouTube. S

salon > september 11

photos courtesy of L’oréaL professionneL

By Yasmin Grothé

salon52.ca

■ Runway

Report

Runway Survival

Fashion show hairstylists dish out their secret "it" products and tools for backstage

By Noelle Stapinsky

Stylist ■ Bruno Racine, artistic director of Ottawa Fashion Week

Show(s) Ottawa Fashion Week

“I use all of Rowenta Beauty’s tools, especially the 2 in 1 Ceramic Ionic Curling Iron. Its heat and versatility allow me to create and change models’ looks quickly. This is important, as backstage can get very hectic.”

International Fashion Weeks – 15 seasons in NYC and eight seasons in Paris.

■ Chad Taylor, Joico stylist and educator

■ Grace Tartaglia, Cityline hair expert

Must Have

“Mason Pearson brush - amazing for blow-drying and finishing. A staple backstage on every show!”

"Fall 2011 runways' most coveted hair trend was the luxurious, luminous hair most visible in the Louis Vuitton collection by Marc Jacobs. The best asset to the rich textures and golden colours of Vuitton bags, shoes and clothes is the shiny hair for which treatment oils, such as Orofluido Beauty Elixir and its accompanying hair-care product range, are a must."

Louis Vuitton by Marc Jacobs

■ Paul Pereira, Lead stylist for the Lucian Matis national 2011, David Dixon 2011, trainer for Betsey Johnson 2010 and Chanel. Schwarzkopf Canada

“A curling iron! Used in a modern way to put texture in an undone feel to the hair. And OSiS Dust It is a must. Working with long hair and needing the look to last, Dust It allows me to get texture, volume and longevity.”

■ Jennifer MacDougall, international portfolio artist for L’Oréal Professionnel

L’Oréal Professionnel Infinium 3 spray for setting the hair to ensure a brushable hold and L’Oréal Professionnel Texture Expert Mousse Volupte, that was applied to dry hair and blow dried in to add support and volume.

■ Morgan Roy, Aveda Canadian creative team ■ DJ Riggs, TIGI artist

A variety of major runway shows in NYC including L.A.M.B by Gwen Stefani and Rachel Roy.

Aveda’s Control Force. It has a really firm hold, but it brushes out. If you don’t want to use a bobby pin or hair elastic, you can get hold from the hairspray. Also, a Mason Pearson brush. You won’t know the difference until you own one. It just combs hair differently.

New York Fashion Week

Erin Fetherston, Milly, Yigal Azrouel, Lake and Stars, Halston, Diesel, Richard Chai

I can’t live without my YS Park brush, it’s a modern version of the Mason Pearson; the grooves in the handle of the brush makes control and dexterity easy, even with product on your hands. TIGI Catwalk Root Boost is one of my go-to products because it is a multifaceted product that allows you to create texture, hold, and volume depending on the desired look.

■ Jan Rudolph, Atlantic Fashion Week Redken Canada artist

■ Joshua Gambrell, Eufora artist

NAHM – Collaboration between Ally Hilfiger and Nary Manivong

salon > september 11

“I love Redken Fabricate 03 because it's just the right amount of control to work and rework runway styles. It's such a nice fine mist that you can use as much or as little as you like, it's great heat protection, lightweight, remains brushable and is never sticky. To achieve the looks, I used a one-inch Marcel iron for looser curls or waves, or a 3/4inch for curlier styles. It rolls well in my hand and is easy to control so I can do a great set.”

“I won’t touch hair without my pure boar bristle Mason Pearson brush. It’s great for working on models with fine- to medium-textured hair. Also, the Eufora Elevate finishing spray is amazing. It’s not a wet spray; it’s workable with hold, and you can layer it.”

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Bodacious Brunettes Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to mute the light and bright colours of summer with a selection of beautiful brown autumn hues By Noelle Stapinsky

salon > september 11

photoS CLoCKWISE L-R: CoURtESY oF WELLA, REDKEN, ALLoXI

colour

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eady to warm up your clients' hair colour for fall? Here's the recipe for this year's hottest shade: stock up on your favourite semi and demi lines and start thinking in the realm of levels three to natural six. Redken Canada’s director of education Terry Ritcey says that while bold reds are still a major trend, this fall rich brunettes will be taking centre stage. Permanent colour lines with a 20-volume developer are still stylists’ go-to for maximum grey coverage. But for other clients seeking the new natural, luminous brunette shades, straight deposit with semi- and demipermanent lines will do the trick. “Often, the act of pulling permanent hair colour through to the ends with ammonia-based hair colours tends to make hair fade more quickly and it looks dry and hollow,” says Ritcey. “One of the things we recommend at Redken is to use a demi-permanent colour. Our Shades EQ--which is also now available in a creme--doesn’t contain ammonia. And if you’re going from a lighter to a darker shade, we always recommend a demi over a permanent. It still contains oxidative dye molecules, gives the same type of deposit, but minimizes the fading that can occur.” One of Redken’s best tips for making a level four or five really pop is to add an overlay with Shades EQ Yellow Kicker. Being the lightest and brightest in the colour spectrum, yellow provides maximum reflection. “If you use the Yellow Kicker as an overlay, it makes that brown literally dance on the head,” says Ritcey. Mia Liguori McHugh, co-president and creative director for Scruples, agrees, "I think brunettes that reflect light are the most beautiful. I like to start with a level four from our Natural Warm series and add a bit of yellow intensifier to it. Anything gold reflects light and appears shiny and healthy." For clients that are a little colour shy, Frank DiCintio, Wella platform artist and educator, says, “You have to salon52.ca

When choosing a shade, DiCintio looks at his client’s eyes. “The outer layer of the iris of the eye will give you an indication of whether they should be cool or warm.” plant the seed of changing a client's colour early. Start talking to them about it in the summer, and when the fall season hits, start putting some ribbons of darker pieces in their hair to get them acquainted with what the darker shade will look like.” Wella’s 2011 Trend Vision Glamazon and Polaris looks feature two interesting techniques for brunettes and darker shades. The Glamazon look is inspired by nature—using rich mochas and dark chocolates as a base colour that melts to a golden honey shade at the ends, to mimic what nature naturally does to the hair. The Polaris look is more striking with sharp angles and edgy style, but the colour is subtle, to add a soft elegant shimmer. Colourists also hear complaints from clients about their colour fading and revealing unwanted red undertones. Aloxxi Colour artist, Marco Pelusi, based in West Hollywood, suggests bumping the colour down a level for the new growth area. “If I want to get a level 6N—natural, medium brown—I might mix in a bit of the 5N into the base formula for the new growth. I’d rather achieve a little more coverage on the base and allow it to last a little longer.” And rather than emulsifying or pulling the colour through, Pelusi says, “Occasionally, reformulate for the midlengths and the ends, especially if their roots have a tendency to lighten with wear. If you do the same formula all over, you might get hot roots and the ends will be dull.” To add more dimension to your brunettes—and as an added service— when touching up a client's re-growth, offer to add another shade to his or her hair by applying a few foils. S september 11 < salon

salon > september 11

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Collection: Tribe II Hair: The Sassoon Creative Team, led by International Creative Director Mark Hayes Makeup: Daniel Koleric Styling: Tabitha Owen Photos: Colin Roy

Street Style New images from Sassoon throw off the reigns of homogeneity

his is the second in a trilogy of collections celebrating the birth of a new contemporary cool, with style coming fresh from the street and challenging the monopoly of the catwalks. “Home,” left, offers up a childlike innocence with an asymmetrical channel cut, layering combined with geometric outlines. The short, sharp gamine cuts of “Beat," top right, are complemented with monochromatic tones of velvet brown and pure white, while Young Fogeys, above, looks backward to more forward, showing off classic barbering techniques with foppish textures and sensible partings. S

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september 11 < salon

Moxie & Movement An Australian stylist brings a daring new collection to life

salon > september 11

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sing a new styling and colouring device called Theadlox, stylist Simone Lee has created a collection of new fashion-forward looks. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Verveâ&#x20AC;? is the artistic inspiration for this collection and through the build up of textural elements and form change within the hair, comes liveliness and animation. The futuristic styling, along with magnitude and movement, flows throughout the series, the result being fascinating new looks. S

Collection: Verve Artistic direction: Simone Lee Hair: Simone Lee, Tyler Reid Hair, Perth, Australia Makeup: Ady Orupe Styling: Lauren Boyle and Ady Orupe Photos: Aaron Mcpolin

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september 11 < salon

PAST

PRESENT

Photo: Walter Chin

PAST

Photo: The Rainbow Room

salon > september 11

Photo: Chris Vassolos

PRESENT

Photo: Chris Vassolos

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PAST

PRESENT

Photo: Chris Vassolos

Photo: Barrie Wentsel

Two Decades in the Making

PAST

A retrospective reinterpreted after a long history in beauty Hair by John Steinberg & Associates

Photo: Bruce of Crescendo

PRESENT

Photo: Chris Vassolos

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o celebrate 20 years in business on King Street West in Toronto, John Steinberg & Associates owner, John Steinberg, and senior stylist, Chanel Croker, came up with an appropriately creative plan. Croker combed through five portfolios of work spanning Steinberg’s decades in the industry to choose nine images that staff at the salon then reinterpreted with a fresh, modern spin. “It’s not just a retrospective of John, but of the business continuing forward. It's taking notes from the past and moving to the future,” says Croker. “Anyone in art or fashion knows that everything is cyclical, and if you don’t understand the history, you won’t be able to create something new.” S

september 11 < salon

Simply Beautiful U.K.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mahogany pulls together iconic looks for fall

salon > september 11

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mbracing classic precision-cutting techniques, natural shades and original dressing and finishing, this new collection from the Mahogany Creative Team creates an aura of aspirational beauty. “These images define the Mahogany ethos of simplicity and beauty. We took iconic shapes and textures as our starting point and amplified the looks and finishes to breathe modernity into each one,” says Neil Atkinson, senior creative director and manager of Mahogany London. “The mood, makeup and styling of the images have clarity and confidence at their core. We have blended a professional point of interest with a look that will instantly engage clients.” S

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The Belle Collection Hair: Mahogany Creative Team, U.K. Makeup: Maddie Austin Stylng: Chloe Holland Photos: Jack Eames

september 11 < salon

Hair: Charlie Price Makeup: Katelyn Simkins Styling: Marcko Cruz Photos: Babak

salon > september 11

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Cyan Sights ■

NAHA People's Choice winner Charlie Price goes blue

he prevalence of the colour blue in high fashion and the current obsession with the '80s brought together this "rock video mash-up" of styles. The hair has a futuristic feel that plays with different shapes from different time periods. Price created a high-tech showgirl with black and blue hair, as well as a modern 18th-century courtesan, a redheaded ‘50s bouffant with an edge and an icy ‘60s shape piled with dusty chignons. S

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september 11 < salon

Red-Carpet Ready New glam collection preps hair for partyworthy style

“T

he SocialLights collection was created to showcase a hybrid of holiday sparkle lights seen through the lens of social media and peppered with our current obsession with celebrities and royalty,” says Adrian Corsin product manager for L'Oréal Professionnel. “In the photos, the hair shows texture and movement. It’s less posed. We wanted it to look as if the girls had just shot the pictures themselves and uploaded them to Facebook and Twitter.” For an exclusive look behind the scenes at the shoot, go to p. 56. S

Hair: Colin Ford and Patrick Nadeau Makeup: Sophie Bastien Styling: Andrew Ly and Melissa Matos Photos: Donat Boulerice

salon > september 11

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X•TAME

Find a Distributor at: www.LCN.ca

Triple Threat Hair: Tim Kuo Markus J Hair Makeup: Timothy Hung Styling: Carlie Wong Photos: Patryk Widejko

The winner of the Canadian Style Masters competition creates three unique looks

ook closely and you'll see that these three styles were all created on the same model. It was a challenge put forth by Revlon Professional Style Masters, and Vancouver stylist Tim Kuo wowed the judges with his images to win a trip to Amsterdam for the international Style Masters event. "I wanted to create a sleek look that was geometric, one with texture and controlled frizz and one that was curled, to show off the three different textures," says Kuo. "I kept it feminine, soft and glamourous, and tried to be consumer friendly, but a bit over the top." For photos from the Style Masters event in Amsterdam, go to p. 94. S

salon > september 11

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Holiday in St. Tropez

Australian stylist Dee Parker creates looks inspired by the glamour and glitz

elivering strong cuts and progressive session styling, Melbourne-based stylist Dee Parker has created versatile twists on traditional classics, while embracing the sexy European vibe. Edgy looks use glamour as the common factor to merge the collection images together, for a perfect array of styles for the stylish streets of St. Tropez. S

Hair: Dee Parker, Salon: Wieselmann,Makeup: Sue Marshall Styling: Anita Fitzgerald, Photos: Amber Toms

salon > september 11

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Celebrating a 90 year milestone in Japan and 45 years of manufacturing in Canada, we are determined to further enhance the quality of life for every person using Takara Belmont equipment with innovative Japanese technology, superior products and services around the globe.

This is our Legacy Model

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Takara Company, Canada, Ltd., Mississauga ON 1.800.268.5351 www.takarabelmont.ca

Fresh Air A cool, clean collection from a two-time British Hairdresser of the Year

Collection: Náttúra, Hair: Angelo Seminara Colour: Edoardo Paludo, Makeup: Denise Rabor Styling: Leticia Dare, Photos: Andrew O’Toole

s the new art director for Davines, Angelo Seminara has created a collection of images coupling his refined taste and his love for nature with Davines’ philosophy of sustainable beauty. The diaphanous, simple images are a tribute to nature in Iceland. The seasons there offer colours that are pure and clean, and he uses this to tell the story of a woman who is strong, very beautiful, ethereal and timeless. S

salon > september 11

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c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry

Form Follows Function Quebec Hairstylist of the Year finalist Simon Chercuitte shares his collection from the 22nd Annual Contessas

hen wardrobe stylist Andrew Lee brought in clothing for Simon Chercuitte’s Contessa shoot, Chercuitte knew exactly which clothing he was going to use. Not only did he fall in love with the ensembles seen here, he also used them as inspiration for the hair. “The material was just very fun,” says Chercuitte. “From there, we wanted to put together shapes for the hair that complemented the women themselves. My favourite is the one with the fringe. There is something about the straightness of it and the eyes that catches you.” Chercuitte also used images from this collection for his 2011 North American Hairstyling Awards entry, which won a NAHA in the Contemporary Classic category. S

Contessa 22, Finalist, Quebec Hairstylist of the Year, Collection: Air, Hair: Simon Chercuitte, Makeup: Sevan Tatoulian, Styling: Andrew Lee, Photos: Ara Sassoonian 82

salon > september 11

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By Alexandra Innes

ocky Vitelli makes artistry look easy. With 21 years of creativity in the beauty industry, his accomplished career includes owning his own salon, numerous Canadian hairstyling awards and recent stints as a stylist for the Miss USA and Miss Universe pageants, as well as for Extra, Entertainment Tonight and Access Hollywood during Oscars Week. The Toronto-based Vitelli has dug deep within to reach the heights he enjoys today. In the past, his life may have looked successful from the outside, but on the inside, it was anything but. Vitelli started young in hairstyling, at age 18. Although he occasionally dabbled in drinking and drugs while partying, it wasn’t until he was 30, and became separated from his then-wife, that drugs and heavy drinking became a welcome escape from the pressure and stress of what he saw as failure. It is a problem that

salon > september 11

New Lease on Life

dogs more people in the beauty industry than you would think. “When you were high you didn’t care about being hurt. But then when you come down, that hurt is always there,” he says. “Feeling the failure, the feeling of letting down family.” Over time, he became a functioning addict, carefully hiding his use from those in his personal and professional life. “In our industry we have this problem. And people think that it’s cool—sex, drugs and rockand-roll,” Vitelli says. “But deep down inside you know that it’s not the right thing. I find that when people get to that point they can't get out, because by then the addiction’s so strong.” But Vitelli did get out, though not before a six-day emergency stay in the hospital alerted his family to his situation. Together, they decided on long-term treatment, and Vitelli embarked on six months of cognitive

behaviour-based rehabilitation. He made the most of his time there, which included reading selfdevelopment books by writers such as Robin Sharma. He came to realize that as well as stopping his substance and alcohol abuse, he needed to find out who he really was. He emerged ready to start a brand new life, armed with a growing ability to analyze and control his mind’s negativity, rather than being controlled by it. Today, after five years of sobriety, he is now more successful than ever. In 2007, Vitelli became a guest stage artist for Farouk Systems. This led to a position on the Farouk Systems’ Global Artistic Board and an opportunity to help create the recent spring 2011 Exposed Collection. Seen worldwide, the collection used CHI hair colour to create interesting, multi-functional patterns, with the colour showing differently, depending on how the

hair is parted. In 2009, Vitelli and a co-owner opened the Mane Society Salon and Spa in Maple, Ont., where he enjoys inspiring young hairstylists and seeing their growth. In June this year, with Farouk, Vitelli styled hair for the Miss USA pageant in Las Vegas. This month, following a hair show for Farouk Systems in Sao Paulo, Brazil, he applies his expertise to the Miss Universe pageant. He also became a father in May, when his wife, Samantha Ritchie, gave birth to a baby girl they named Rocquel, after her proud dad. Vitelli credits gratitude as a major factor in his success. “It's a way of thinking, a way of being grateful for the things that God has given us,” he says. “The minute I became that person, where I had a lot of gratitude for life in general, is when I became a better hairstylist and received more opportunities.” S

photos clockwise l-R: couRtesy Rocky vitelli, babak, elizabeth yong, elizabeth yong, Rocky vitelli

Facing an all-toocommon problem in the industry, a stylist digs deep to find fresh success

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MARK YOUR CALENDARS THIS FALL FOR THE BIGGEST AND BEST BEAUTY TRADE SHOW IN YOUR REGION

SOME GREAT REASONS TO STOP BY THIS FALL: STAY EDUCATED on some of the hottest looks and treand of the upcoming season. GET GREAT DEALS in the marketplace on some of the newest products in the industry to ensure you’re always using top quality tools and products. SHOW YOUR STUFF or watch the excitement unfold at the fierce competitions. Cheer for some of your favorite competitors as they blow the crowd away. DANCE THE NIGHT AWAY at the annual ABA after party!

VISIT THE ABA SHOW IN YOUR REGION THIS YEAR ON ONE OF THESE DATES: Regina

Evraz Place

Calgary

Calgary Stampede Park

Moncton

Coliseum & Agrena Complex Featuring Tabatha Coffey

BUY YOUR TICKETS ONLINE Don’t forget you can purchase ABA show tickets online at www.abacanada.com, all major credit cards accepted. You will then pick up your ticket at the show registration booth, look for a sign that says “ONLINE TICKET PURCHASE”.

September 25 & 26 October 2 & 3 October 23 & 24

STAY CONNECTED! RECEIVE THE LATEST NEWS & MORE! Become a fan of the show at Facebook.com/Allied Beauty Association or follow us on twitter.com/ABACanada

Ask your distributor for details or call 1-800-268-6644 for more information or visit our website at www.abacanada.com Design: Artisan Design,Windsor, Ontario Hair and Concept: Heather Wenman of STUDIO H Makeup: Giancarlo Intini Photographer: Babak

NAILS

Glitter Ball If you noticed Rihanna sporting glittery red nails on the cover of Cosmopolitan recently, credit goes to Kimmie Kyees, who pressed very fine Martha Stewart glitter onto gel polish to get the look. Apply the glitter when nails are still tacky, after they've been cured. The reflective finish is often mistaken for Minx, says Kyees, who learned this technique from a CND nail artist at a Long Beach, Calif., trade show. “I always go to nail shows because you never know what little tip you’re going to pick up.” The look was recreated here by the Jolie Beauty Bar team by pressing MAC pigment over gel polish to get a similar effect.

Be Vein For Katy Perry’s E.T. video, Kyees came up with a creative concept to give Perry alien-like nails. She applied strings of black sewing thread to wet ivory polish to mimic veins branching out from the cuticles. The technique may be simple yet the look is other-worldy and can easily be applied to a shorter nail for everyday wear.

Celebrity Nail Secrets t’s safe to say nail art has replaced handbags as the current “must-have” accessory for celebs. With all eyes on famous digits, the first fingertips to sport a stiletto tip or a Minx manicure are, of course, household names. Just ask Kimmie Kyees, the Los Angeles-based celebrity nail artist responsible for some of the mostwatched nails in the world—those of Rihanna and Katy Perry. “I constantly have to come up with new ideas. If

By Marlene Rego

they’ve seen it on another celebrity, they’re definitely not going to wear it,” she says. Stars are always looking for the newest nail fad to make a statement, and clients want to look like stars. The talented team at Toronto’s Jolie Beauty Bar, led by master nail artist and two-time Contessa Nail Enhancement Artist of the Year Jessica Ellison, created the four looks seen here and showed us how to adapt the cutting-edge styles for your salon.

Half-Moon Hands The famous may be fickle, but this trend still has legs, thanks to its many incarnations. “I still do a lot of half-moons,” says Kyees, who gave Rihanna halfmoons for her performance on American Idol. Burlesque queen Dita Von Teese is also a big fan of the half-moon and is regularly photographed with a swipe of gold over elegant ruby red talons. Ellison says, “I think it’s a really cool way of wearing nail art without being too out there. And with an empty moon you don’t have to worry about it growing out.” She recreated this popular look using Artistic Gloss gel polish cured under an LED lamp for 30 seconds in between coats.

salon > september 11

Oh-So Ombré Lauren Conrad and Drew Barrymore are both fans of this look. With this trend, polish gradually goes from light to dark in the same tone. Ellison says rocking ombré is a simple way to liven up a manicure. Ellison started with a soft blue and used her fingertip to blend teal and navy across the tip before curing. S

POP QUIZ! GO TO SALON52.CA TO PLAY GUESS THE CELEBRITY NAILS

PHOTOS: NOELLE STAPINSKY EXCEPT DITA VON TEESE KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY, TOP RIGHT: KRISTIAN DOWLING/PICTUREGROUP

How to recreate four red carpet-worthy manicures

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esthetics

Prescribed Beauty Spa services for women battling cancer

salon > september 11

Safe vs. unsafe So what products are safe for those undergoing cancer treatments? Hyaluronic acid, peptides (chains of amino-acids), plant-derived stem cells and fruit enzymes. It’s about putting hydration back in the skin. Stem cells will repair the DNA in the skin. They’re gentle and safe for all skin types and are very nourishing. What’s unsafe? The skin is very thin and sensitive so staying away from harsh things like AHAs and BHAs is a must. Mild exfoliation services that use fruit enzymes are okay. Fruit enzymes are a better alternative to glycolic and salicylic acids. “Often what we’re teaching when we are dealing with these compromised skins is staying away from products with parabens, because they’re chemical preservatives and often the skin reacts to chemical agents, period,” she warns.

Challenges “With patients going through chemo or radiation, skin is very compromised from the chemicals that they’re being treated with, and there are a lot of ingredients and products that you cannot use,” notes Johnson. Esthetics Plus’ course is a continuing education class, where an existing skincare therapist or esthetician can take the course and obtain more knowledge on what to do with these patients, including what’s safe and what’s not safe, to customize during treatments. “A lack of knowledge is why estheticians shy away from this service a little bit. There’s so much more to keep learning. It needs to be encouraged,” says Johnson.

How to market it “It’s a touchy subject,” says Johnson. You don’t want to alienate clients, especially if they’re looking to be discreet. They need to disclose any issues but it might not be something they want to discuss with the receptionist. In your spa menu, specify which services are ideal for compromised skin, whether it’s rosacea or other complications. “Our treatment menu at Derma Lounge identifies each service and who is an ideal candidate, so we will list chemo patients and radiation patients,” explains Johnson. Including which treatments are safe makes good marketing sense. S

model photo: thinkstock

"When you have cancer patients, there are a lot of ingredients and products that you cannot use on them. A lack of knowledge is why estheticians shy away from these services a little bit. There’s so much more to keep learning. It needs to be encouraged."

hemotherapy can take an unwelcome toll on women battling serious illnesses. These clients need a boost not only for their well-being, but also because cancer drugs and radiation wreak havoc on the skin. Estheticians are beginning to specialize in services that cater to their specific needs, and it’s a fairly large demographic. Esthetics Plus in Edmonton offers a class for this purpose. Stacey Johnson, a medial esthetician, started teaching the course in January. The curriculum focuses on ingredients to avoid and how to identify what’s safe. “Outlining treatments that are safe for them is important so they can still have a spa day. It’s a way to feel pampered and get a boost for a day or week that’s really rough,” Johnson explains.

By Marlene Rego

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Photos: alex legault, mccall

salon > september 11

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Narcisse Aqua Spa An airy, tranquil environment combining expert hair care with top-of-the-line esthetic treatments creates the perfect urban oasis.

T 1

By Yasmin Grothé

ucked away in a quiet corner of a sprawling luxury mall in Montreal, Narcisse Aqua spa et coiffure offers clients state-of-the-art facilities for a pampering experience from head to toe. Designed by Lanvain, the 3,500-sq.ft. space highlights the hair experience by positioning the hairstyling stations with their individual oversized mirrors close to the windows. The spa, which takes up half of the space, sits at the back of the salon to help enhance the quiet, relaxing experience. It offers an array of specialized treatments: Finnish sauna, Norwegian steam bath with essential oils, multiple jet Arctic shower, saltwater thermal waterfalls with chromotherapy (colour therapy) and a luxury relaxation room. One perk: a non-recycled saltwater filtration system, which eliminates impurities to provide optimal results. The salon also offers a long menu of esthetic services. S

1. A combination of spotlights and decorative fixtures with contemporary lampshades provide an efficient, yet chic, lighting system. 2. The retail rack is sharp and minimal, making it easy to access the products. What’s more, it’s even visible from the outside window. 3. Clean, uncluttered and all white, the technical area has video screens embedded under the mirrored wall to keep in sync with the sleek, sophisticated vibe of the salon. 4. River stones beautifully cover the wall in the room with saltwater thermal waterfalls.

The Specs Opened in 2009

Details

• 3 sinks • 8 hairstyling stations

Brands Goldwell, KMS California, L’Oréal Professionnel, Moroccanoil, Patrice Beauté, René Furtherer

Website Narcisse.ca

5. At each hairstyling station, storage for products and hot tools is behind the chair, so the client can sit directly in front of a large-scale mirror.

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september 11 < salon

SCOOP

Industry Moves Schwarzkopf Professional has announced that George Broder, general manager for schwarzkopf Professional Canada, has been selected to take over responsibility for the us division. He has relocated to Los Angeles for the role. Marianne Medeiros, head of marketing for schwarzkopf Professional Canada, has been promoted to the general manager position. Congratulations to both! Philip Anthony Capobianco has been appointed the new creative and technical manager for Colomer Canada. An award-winning stylist, Capobianco has been in the salon industry for more than 20 years and is experienced in all aspects of education. Celebrity hairstylist, educator and salon owner Nick Arrojo has announced a new partnership with Goldwell. He will be using the line exclusively at his new york City salon and academy, and has been invited to create a stage presentation for Goldwell’s 2011 Color Zoom in Miami. Gregg Emery has been named the new president of Farouk Systems. emery joined the company in 2009 as executive vice-president of sales and Promotions. In his new position, he will oversee sales, marketing, shows and education.

From the Heart Congratulations to salon owner rocco Campanaro of Axcess salon & spa in richmond Hill, ont., who raised $1,635 for the ride for Heart fundraiser and rode the 75-km route in three hours. Kudos to the staff of saje salon.spa in Appleton, ont.! With support from clients and the local community, and in conjunction with shu uemura, the salon raised $4,100 for relief efforts in Japan.

Get Glowing two of Canada’s market leaders for indoor tanning have announced their upcoming merger. uvalux tanning & support and Cantan sun systems plan to combine to “provide the best industry knowledge and support to help salon owners grow their business,” says uvalux president nik van Haeren. President of Cantan, Frank Ingham, will assist during the transition and remain with the team as a consultant.

CorrECtioN on p. 66 in the July/August issue, the correct phone number to reach Brian Courville of Lanvain should have been listed as 800-361-2586.

salon > september 11

FuturE FoCuS the newly formed Alternative Hair russia recently presented its inaugural visionary Award in st. Petersburg to Moscow stylist dmitriy Ageev. tony rizzo, founder of the Alternative Hair organization, was on hand for the ceremony, which raised 9,000 euros for Children with Leukaemia. the finalist’s presentation showcased the work of 25 stylists from across the country.

photo: thinkstock

CND president and Ceo John Heffner has stepped down after 14 years at the company in order to spend more time with family and explore new dreams. He will serve as a consultant for one year. Cnd’s management team will now report directly to Sennen Pamich, president of Colomer usA and executive vice-president, Americas and Africa.

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Inspiration in Amsterdam Style Masters hits the European city, showing off hair from around the globe By Melissa Hill

salon > september 11

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF REVLON PROFESSIONAL STYLE MASTERS

group of more than 3,000 got their creative juices flowing at an event to celebrate the success of Revlon Professionalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Style Masters. In addition to inspiring the audience with great new hair collections, the night was also the culmination of a competition, which began in December 2010 to find a new Style Masters ambassador. Tim Kuo, from Markus J Salon in Vancouver, was the winner of the Canadian Style Masters competition, and one of 11 Canadians who went to Amsterdam for the show and awards. International Style Masters Team member from Japan, Fumio Kawashima, and his stylists, led by Hidehko Ito, opened the show. Revlon Professional presented its Marrakech and New Hollywood collections, followed by American Crewâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s New Folk. For the finale of the show, the international Style Master winner, Lala Khachatryan from Russia, was announced. Khachatryan changed careers only three years ago to become a hair stylist and has found quick success. Hairstylists from 14 countries participated in the contest. To enter the Style Masters competition, each stylist had to create three distinct looks on the same model using Style Masters products. The global winner was chosen by the International Style Masters Team, comprised of top-level artists Kawashima, Gun-Britt Zeller from Denmark, Robert Masciave from the United Kingdom, Charlie Price and David Raccuglia from the United States, and X-Presion from Spain. The team, along with visionary artist Robert Lobetta, designed the styles for a high-level photo shoot campaign to represent the line. The Style Masters complete line consists of 17 styling products with textures and consistencies to achieve any desired effect. To see the winning images from Canadian Tim Kuo, go to p. 76. S

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London Calling

Aveda teams from around the world present their creative best veda brought out the top talent for this year's Aveda Master Jam 2011, hosted at London’s Old Billingsgate venue. More than 1,000 hairstylists flooded the venue to take in presentations by teams from Europe, Canada and the United States, as well as a grand finale by Aveda’s senior vice-president of creative, Antoinette Beenders. The event kicked off with an energetic hip-hop dance troop and an interactive "Macarena"-type dance to a Lady Gaga song to get the crowd pumped up. The European team applied stencils to spray colour on their models’ hair to create three-dimensional texture, while the American team displayed precision cuts with angular fronts and longer, disconnected backs. Toronto-based Ray Civello led the Canadian team, which created big, blonde Afro-style wigs with cool cutout shapes. Each model had a tiny light inside her mouth as she walked the runway, which had a video backdrop displaying classroom-style messages. For the finale, Beenders presented an earth, water and fire theme. Her show began with a breathtaking Cirque du Soleil-style intro featuring a model draped in a 40-footlong white fabric that appeared to move like waves on the runway. Her looks were punk-inspired yet ethereal, featuring short crops, gelled looks and long straight hair with crimped panels for added texture. Head online to www.salon52.ca for more on Aveda Master Jam. S

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september 11 < salon

photoS courteSy of AvedA mASter jAm

By Noelle Stapinsky

EVENTS

Wella Trend Vision Workshop Who: Wella artists Frank DiCintio and Sandro Zamparini, Wella’s capability training manager Renee Frechette, and 12 participating hairstylists from across Ontario. What: A two-day seminar that included an introduction to the inspiration behind Wella’s four trends—Polaris, Glamazon, Passionista, Lumina—and a day spent creating the individual looks for their entries and having the models shot by professional photographer, Edward Kowal. When & Where: May 1 and 2 at Wella Canada Inc., in Mississauga, Ont. Highlights: Many of the participating stylists had one of the four trends in mind when they arrived at the workshop, but many admitted that when they saw their model they were inspired toward a different trend.

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salon > september 11

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Premiere Orlando Who: Canadians Martin Parsons, Mirella Rota and Rocky Vitelli. Plus, Nicholas French, Ted Gibson, Patrick McIvor, Angus Mitchell, Robert Cromeans and more. What: One of America’s largest beauty events of the year, the Premiere Orlando show attracts more than 60,000 hairstylists. When & Where: June 4 to 6, Orlando, Fla. at the Orange County Convention Center. Highlights: CND lived up to the “creative” in its name with a flash mob in the main lobby. CND swapped the lyrics of Aretha Franklin’s “Respect” for its own nail-worthy lyrics. “All I’m asking is for a little Shellac...” Go to salon52.ca for a link to the video. Wella and Nioxin also held a simultaneous webcast. Salons were able to pose questions, and Fabio Sementilli was on hand backstage to answer. Soundbite: Canadian Aveda guest star Tristan Morrison practises with his shears two to three hours every week, so they always feel like an extension of his hand. “Professional basketball players never stop practising their free throws, so why should stylists?”

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september 11 < salon

EVENTS

L’Oréal Professionnel Launches Smoothing Alternative Who: Colin Ford, L’Oréal Professionnel’s director of education and events, and L’Oréal Professionnel educators. What: L’Oréal invited media to experience X-tenso Moisturist. It’s a safe, formaldehyde-free hair smoothing formula that promises straight strands for eight weeks. The relaunch uses unique technology that works from within the hair to smooth out frizzies and flyaways. When & Where: May 31 at the L’Oréal Academy in Toronto.

Where Will you be When night falls? gala: october 30th, 2011 the Sheraton centre, 123 Queen WeSt, toronto, on early bird ticketS aS of September 6th $150 until Sept. 30th $165 until oct. 14th $190 until conteSSa night call 416.869.3131 ext. 108 viSit Salon52.ca photoS: conteSSa 22

salon > september 11

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Matrix Mobile Salon at Luminato What & Who: At Matrix’s mobile hair station, the crowd was treated to free blowouts and styling from five Marca College students. They also received Design Pulse products to take home, plus a glamour shot of their hot new looks. When & Where: June 10 to 19, downtown Toronto. Highlights: Just steps away from a crowd of thousands at the Much Music Video Awards, Matrix artists and five Marca College students had their hands full with hundreds of festival attendees and passersby who wanted a glam ‘do. More than 3,000 samples of Design Pulse products were handed out in two days.

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L’Oréal Professionnel’s Luminato Colour Contest What & Who: Beauty junkies stopped by L’Oréal Professionnel’s busy tent for free colour consultations and styling by pros from Taz Hair Co., Salon Daniel & Spa, Brennen Demelo Studio, Capelli, Hair & Aesthetics, Flaunt Boutique, Hair Dynamix, Industry Hairdressing and Mosaic Hair Group. Each visitor scored a swag bag of L’Oréal Professionnel products and a mini blow-dryer. When & Where: June 10 to 19, downtown Toronto. Highlights: Each visitor was given a Colour Passport to enter a contest to win colour treatments from the participating salons for one year. Post-styling, visitors had an after-photo taken and uploaded to L’Oréal’s Facebook—a genius move to increase the online following. salon52.ca

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EVENTS

Oribe Backstage Las Vegas Who: Celebrity hairstylist Oribe took over the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino, transforming it into his own personal pop-up atelier and show space for two days of inspiration and education. What: The hair workshop and avant-garde runway show included 750 salon owners, artistic directors and industry professionals from across North America, plus 300 models on the runway. Quote: “Of all the shows I’ve ever done, this is the one that defines me. If anyone in the future were to reference my style, this is where they’d look. I put a lot of myself into the show. It was a representation of what I love and how wild and extreme education can be,” says Oribe, cofounder and creative director of Oribe Hair Care.

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salon > september 11

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Salon Magazine 08/11 Toronto Alternative Arts Ad Size and Fashion Week 3.75”W x 10” H

What: A multi-arts event featuring 200 national and international fashion designers, visual artists, band and performers. Who: Stylists from Redken, including four from Toronto’s Lift Salon and Spa, provided hair styling for all of the runway shows. Each night featured a different hairstyling theme, based on Redken creative consultant Guido’s fall collection. Fashion designers could choose the night’s theme style or their own style for the shows. Quote: “This is my second year here, but I’ve done Fashion Weeks for 15 years,” says Heidi Hurtarte, co-owner of Lift Salon and Spa. “You have to be ready for whatever comes and go with the flow. It’s more fun and creative than a day in the salon, and we’ll do anything to help artists, especially for a show that’s local and Canadian.”

Photo coutesy L’Oréal Professionnel

L’Oréal Professionnel • PureOlogy Kevin Murphy • Cadiveu • Alterna • Tressa Lakme • SpaRitual • OPI • Babe • FHI Heat Ego • Kasho • Dannyco

Phases New Location Who: Frank Tripodi, an award-winning hairstylist, international educator and owner of Phases salon, and his salon team. What: After 20 successful years at its Vaughan, Ont., location, Phases has re-opened in its new home on Yonge Street in Toronto’s North York neighbourhood. When: July 14 Highlights: Citytv interviewed Tripodi to spotlight the new salon, while a DJ spun tunes out in front of the salon. Staff, customers, friends and media mingled and admired the newly designed stations and colour unit — all cleverly designed to be ergonomic for the stylist. Tripodi also announced that he has officially patented his Enviro Cut, a dry-cutting technique that saves time, energy and cost to the client. salon52.ca

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Allied Beauty Association pg 85 .......................800-268-6644 ........................ www.abacanada.com American Crew Superglue pg 43 .....................800-387-7980 Artego pg 100 ....................................................888-735-4247 ........................ www.myartego.ca China Glaze Crackle Metals pg 81 ...................800-621-9585 ........................ www.chinaglaze.com China Glaze Metro pg 59 ..................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.chinaglaze.com CND Shellac pg 29 ...........................................877-CND-NAIL ...................... www.cnd.com CND Shellac pg 31 ...........................................877-CND-NAIL ...................... www.cnd.com Contessa 23 pg 60-61 .......................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca Elevate Magazine pg 103 ..................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.elevatemagazine.com Essie Fall 2011 pg 45 .......................................800-232-1155 ........................ www.essie.com Eufora Details pg 37.........................................800-6EUFORA ....................... www.eufora.net FHI Heat Kore pg 23 .........................................877-344-4328 ........................ www.fhiheat.com George Barber & Beauty Supplies pg 100........866-594-4692 ........................ www.georgebarberandbeauty.com Gigi All Purpose Honee pg 107 ........................800-621-9585 ........................ www.gigspa.com Hot Tools Titan 2100 pg 93 ...............................800-487-8432 ........................ www.hottools.com ISO i.Color Brights pg 108 ...............................800-267-4676 ........................ www.isohair.com

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Business ❏ PleaseName send____________________________________ me periodic offers from related companies

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Inverness Hair Gems pg 87..............................877-212-9322 Joico Smooth Cure pg 24-25 ...........................877-426-2590 ........................ www.joico.com Keratherapy pg 77 ............................................877-267-9111 ........................ www.keratherapy.com Kevin.Murphy Young.Again pg 32 ................................................................... www.kevinmurphy.com.au L’Oreal Professionnel Absolut Repair pg 2-3 ..800-361-8017 ........................ www.lorealprofessionnel.ca LCN Canada Fall in Love pg 83 ........................800-557-3223 ........................ www.lcn.ca LCN Canada X-Tame pg 75 ..............................800-557-3223 ........................ www.lcn.ca Matrix Total Results pg 10-11 .........................888-935-1885 ........................ www.matrix.com Mixed Chicks Haircare pg 97 ............................877-888-0480 ........................ www.mixedchicks.net Oligo Professional Alcove pg 41.......................877-837-6426 ........................ www.oligoprofessionnel.com OPI Touring America Collection pg 35 .............800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com Revlon Professional Style Masters pg 21 ........800-387-7980 Rowenta Beauty The Versa Style pg 57 .......................................................... www.rowentabeauty.ca Salon Magazine App pg 46-47 ..........................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca Schwarzkopf Bonacure pg 14-15 ....................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Schwarzkopf Essensity pg 12-13 .....................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Schwarzkopf Igora 50th Anniversary pg 4-5 ...800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Schwarzkopf Igora Vibrance pg 26-27.............800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Sebastian Potion 9 pg 8-9 .................................800-41-Wella ........................ www.sebastianprofessional.com/harley Soma Hair Technology pg 22 ............................866-843-2257 ........................ www.somahair.ca SpaRitual Wilde Collection pg 55 ....................877-SPA-RITUAL .................. www.sparitual.com Star Nail Canada pg 89 .....................................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com Takara Belmont 90th Anniversary pg 79 .........800-268-5351 ........................ www.takarabelmont.ca The Nail Depot Gel Polish pg 96 ......................800-668-2256 ........................ www.naildepot.ca TIGI Bed Head pg 51 ........................................800-259-8596 ........................ www.bedhead.com Unite Global Session pg 19 ..............................888-95-UNITE ....................... www.unitehair.com Zerran Canada pg 101 ......................................800-862-1447 ........................ www.zerrancanada.com Credits from page 46-47: Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton, AB, Makeup: Sevan Tatoulian, Photo: Ara Sassoonian Olivier Miotto, Glam Salon Boutique, Montreal, QC, Makeup: Jessica Manzo & Julie Chabot, Photos: Carl Lessard Gian Paolo Colombo, Hairafter Salon & Spa, Toronto, ON, Makeup: Giancarlo Intini, Photos: Richard Dubois Lina Shamoun, Artline Salon, Kitchener, ON, Makeup: Giancarlo Intini, Photos: Richard Dubois Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC, Makeup: Amber-Rae Derton, Photos: Greg Swales Uyen Huynh, Quinn’s World Salon, Saskatoon, SK, Makeup: Uyen Huynh, Photos: Gina Yesnik Robert Barbosa, Salon Escape, Toronto, ON, Makeup: Boriana Karan, Photos: Marek Szkudlarek Sylvain Bellerose, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC, Makeup: Amber-Rae Derton, Photos: Greg Swales Christopher Deagle, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver, BC, Makeup: Jon Hennessey, Photos: Philip Jarmain

3/7/09 5:04:36 PM

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EVENTS

FREE BEAuTY nEws! Want the inside scoop on cosmetic enhancement, beauty tips and contests? Get Elevate Magazine’s e-newsletter sent straight to your inbox for the latest: anti-aging secrets cosmetic before+afters must-have beauty products exclusive giveaways doctor directories

September 2011 CApILeX

September 11, 2011 Centre des Congres de Quebec Quebec City, Que. Info: 800-463-4721 CANtIN beAUte

September 18, 2011 Centre des Congres de Quebec Quebec City, Que. Info: cantinbeaute.com CApItAL beAUtY eXpO

September 18–19, 2011 Lansdowne Park Ottawa Info: capitalbeautyexpo.com StAr beDArD

September 18–19, 2011 Palais de Congres Montreal Info: starbedard.com AbA reGINA

September 25–26, 2011 Regina Exhibition Park Regina Info: abacanada.com

HAIr CLASSeS AveDA eDUCAtIONAL prOGrAmS Info: 800.689.1066, ext. 7892 CHI eDUCAtIONAL prOGrAmS Info: 888.251.8466 GLObAL beSt beAUtY eDUCAtIONAL prOGrAmS Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988 GOLDweLL eDUCAtIONAL prOGrAmS Including Trend Zoom seminars Info: 877.670.6767

GreAt LeNGtHS eDUCAtIONAL prOGrAmS Info: greatlengthscanada.com KmS eDUCAtIONAL prOGrAmS Info: 877.670.6767 L’OréAL prOfeSSIONNeL eDUCAtIONAL prOGrAmS Classes include Absolute LP, Colour on Colour, Essential Texture and the new H3 Academy Info: 800.361.1861 mAtrIX eDUCAtIONAL prOGrAmS Info: 888.422.6879

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reDKeN eDUCAtIONAL prOGrAmS Info: 866.9.REDKEN

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tIGI eDUCAtIONAL prOGrAmS Info: 800.259.8596 UrbAN beAUtY SYStemS Educational Programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions; In-salon classes available Info: 866.731.4327

NAIL AND eStHetICS CLASSeS AveDA eDUCAtIONAL prOGrAmS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CND eDUCAtIONAL prOGrAmS Info: contact your local CND distributor LCN eDUCAtIONAL prOGrAmS Info: lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings

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Natural Silk Therapy Black Caviar Collection For further inquires on current distribution: Head Office (Canada): phone: 905.482.4399 • fax: 905.856.0901 www.monplatin.com • maycosmetics@yahoo.ca 104

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LAST WORD

TRENDSETTERS—

n a recent trip to London, England, I took a stroll along Carnaby Street for nostalgic reasons. I felt rather upset. Gone are the tiny boutiques, where bands like The Who, The Small Faces and The Rolling Stones shopped for their eye-popping gear. That kind of imaginative clothing could only be found in the independent fashion boutiques, with names like I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet and Kleptomania, which used to line Carnaby Street. The Carnaby Street style of “swinging London” stormed into North American and international awareness with the April 15, 1966, publication of Time magazine—with a front cover, no less. "Perhaps nothing illustrates the new swinging London better than narrow, three-block-long Carnaby Street, which is crammed with a cluster of 'the gear' boutiques where the girls and boys buy each other clothing," the Time article gushed. It was true, though. But, alas, no more. Originality and creativity have been supplanted by garish chain stores. Ah well, at least I have wonderful images in my mind of the years between 1961 and 1967, when I took regular shopping visits to that wonderful street. Back in those days, being trendy was fun! A trendsetter is defined as a person who starts a fashion trend. A groundbreaker, in other words. That certainly rings true for the young man who got Carnaby Street started and became its most influential retailer, John Stephen, a grocer's son from Glasgow, Scotland. Stephen got started in 1952 in an ultra-conservative environment. His first London job as an 18-year-old teenager found him working in the military department of Moss Bros., the epitome of conformist, establishment menswear. In an 180-degree turnabout, Stephen then went to work for a mail-order retail outlet in Carnaby Street — then an undesirable and almost deserted back alley full of abandoned warehouses. This shop imported the tight black sweaters of the Parisian Existentialists and also stocked yellow, purple and scarlet shirts. Very daring for the square-jawed, square-shouldered and square-minded 1950s.

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Stephen learned that unconventional clothes could sell — and for a good price. In 1957, he opened his own shop in the same area, and when it burned down, he moved to Carnaby Street, where he made up his designs quickly and inexpensively in a workshop at the back of the boutique. By 1961, he had four shops on the street. And he made a fortune. At 20, he bought himself the first of several Rolls-Royces—the first RollsRoyce sale ever to someone so young. Apparently, the police stopped him regularly to ask: “Is this your father’s car?” “Young John Stephen — he’s 28 but looks more like 17 — practically owns Carnaby Street,” the Evening Telegraph reported in 1965. By 1967, Stephen owned nine Carnaby Street boutiques. Stephen produced many firsts: mini kilts for men, elephant-cord lowslung trousers, double-breasted velvet jackets, Aertex T-shirts and kaftans with flared trousers made from curtain fabric. He was also the first to import Levi's from America. The only time his fashion sense failed him was in 1970. He produced a suit made from silver. It left the midriff bare, and came with radiation insurance of up to 1,500 guineas (approximately $245,000). Everyone would be wearing them by 2000, he assured the press. Oh well, nobody’s perfect. But, indisputably, John Stephen brought fashion front and centre for men, at a time when it was non-existent. All hail the trendsetters, say I. S

John Steinberg, of John Steinberg & Associates, is part of Canada’s hair elite. He has been in the beauty business for 52 years. Check out johnsteinbergthelectures.com.

TOP PHOTO: THINKSTOCK, STEINBERG PHOTO: BARRIE WENTZELL

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