Salon Magazine, September 2012 by Salon Communications Inc.

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

The coolest hair, nails and textures your clients will be asking for this season

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Fall Forecast

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GiVE YOUr cLiEnt HiGH-GLOSS cOLOr PErFEctiOn. 2X shinier, perfectly even… even on chemically treated hair.

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MAKE A LOOK • MAKE THE CUT • TAKE YOUR REPUTATION GLOBAL You know you’re a great stylist. But can you compete with the best? American Crew Face Off is about more than a hair cut. More than a professional style. It’s about attitude. This is your chance to go head-to-head with the world’s most talented stylists for a chance to win your very own American Crew photo shoot, have backstage access to the 2013 global American Crew show in Europe, and capture press coverage around the world. Get all the details, upload your photos and take on the world at americancrew.com/faceoff

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12-06-05 4:50 PM

THE PAYOFF TOP STYLISTS

Enter American Crew Face Off, and you’ll get your style in front of the industry’s biggest, most influential names. Then in November, each country will announce its top stylists to the media. Make this cut, and you’ll make headlines too.

FINALISTS

Be named the best stylist from your country, and you’ll head to L.A. for a three-day trip including: - A photo shoot with: An internationally renowned photographer Models and assistants Wardrobe and makeup - A finalist plaque for display at your station - A professionally retouched poster featuring your look - Mention in the 2013 Style Selector - A celebratory award dinner where you’ll get a first look at everything American Crew has in store for 2013

AMERICAN CREW FACE OFF CHAMPION

At the award dinner in California, we’ll announce the first ever global American Crew Face Off Champion. The champion will win: - The ultimate recognition of their talent when their look is revealed at the award dinner - Backstage access to the 2013 global American Crew show in Europe - A spread in American Crew’s 2013 Style Selector - A full set of our Men’s Corner furniture collection for their salon FOR INQUIRES PLEASE CALL 1.800.387.7980 © 2012 AMERICAN CREW. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @AMERICANCREW

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LIKE US ON FACEBOOK AT FACEBOOK.COM/AMERICANCREW

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september.12

The coolest hair, nails and textures your clients will be asking for this season

live from the catwalk

Predictions from the world's top stylists for fall 2012

hot tips on the runway

curls, crimps and waves, oh my!

Talking texture with top stylists in the category

From subtle to spicy, here are five autumn nail trends

salon > september 12

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Salon Magazine readerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s choice awards Congratulations to the winners!

collections

The latest styles from Vivienne Mackinder, Hester Wernert-Rijn, Katie Mulcahy, Jason Kearns, the Sassoon Salon and Academy and Tim Kuo

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

fEatures

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Fall Forecast

september 12 $5 salonmagazine.ca

12-07-31 4:15 PM

Hair: Katie Mulcahy, Lisa Shepherd Salons, Birmingham, U.K. Makeup: Maddie Austin and Caroline Piasecki Styling: Harriet Cotterill Photo: Jack Eames

salonmagazine.ca

12-08-02 2:02 PM

IT’S TIME: BE PART OF THE NEXT GENERATION OF HAIRCOLOR AFTER ONLY FOUR MONTHS, OVER 60,000 STYLISTS ACROSS NORTH AMERICA ARE USING CHROMATICS IN THEIR SALONS. FIND OUT WHY THEY ARE PART OF IT! “I did Chromatics Color on a client who had 100% white hair. The result was so beautiful and the client found the no-odor experience very pleasant.” Karen Weir, Salon 56 Newfoundland

“I used Chromatics as a toner after doing a color correction, and the hair was so soft and manageable! Even after using a lightener with 40 volume, the hair felt so much stronger!” Daniella Pacheco, Forever Young Hair Studio Day Spa Ontario “We've been coloring up a storm with Chromatics since we introduced it in our salon – and we LOVE it!!! The clients are impressed with the stunning high-shine results. We're hooked!”

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12-08-01 12:05 PM

Katie Mulcahy

REGULARS 18

EDITOR’S LETTER

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

SALONMAGAZINE.CA

Hester Wernert-Rijn

74 78

This month on salonmagazine.ca

HAIRLINES Go Glossy p. 25; Hair Support p. 26; New Keratin Formula p. 26; Next Generation p. 26; A Better Blonde p. 28; Canada's Best Beauty Talent Winner p. 28; Sebastian What's Next Tour: Toronto p.28; Canada at Goldwell Color Zoom p. 30; Calling Super Style Heroes p. 30; Salon International 2012 Preview p. 30; Contessa Tickets On Sale! p. 32; Ready for Eyelash Tinting? p. 32; Total Look Winner p. 32; Toolbox: Total Texture p. 34; Scruples' Glacial Collection p. 34; Business: Troubleshooting Guide p. 36; Shelf Life p. 38

PROFILE

CONTESSA GALLERY

COLOUR

NAILS How to keep clients' nails happy after the soak-off

ESTHETICS Four dos and don'ts for spray-tanning perfection

INTERIORS Woody and Amy Michleb on their Whitby, Ont. location

SCOOP

EVENTS

LAST LOOK

Vidal Sassoon: An industry remembers the man who changed everything

Anna Pacitto gives a nod to Canadian fashion

Problems getting the right colour result? Check your water.

NAILS Autumn Nails

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salonmagazine.ca

12-08-02 2:02 PM

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Fall Faves

If you love us, lIke us! Be the first to hear about giveaways on facebook.com/elevatemagazine facebook.com/ElevateMagazine twitter.com/elevatemagazine elevatemagazine.com

salon > september 12

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Melissa Hill Editor-in-Chief

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, MAKEUP: LANAGMAKEUP.COM

ack in 1989, I was among the legions of girls getting a perm. I vividly recall the smell of perm solution and the springy, short curls that resulted. By the late ’90s, though, the perm was a mostly distant memory, in favour of the shiny, perfectly straight locks that only a flat iron could give. But now that texture is back in a big way, what of the perm? It’s definitely being revisited by companies which have launched new formulations and techniques. Goodbye icky smells and one-size-fits-all curls. The new perms mimic the trend toward looser, boho waves and hair that moves—and, overall, give more natural-looking results. We talk texture in this issue—one of my favourite topics— starting on p. 46. Texture is a runway story, as well. It’s one of the trends that cropped up again and again for fall. You can see what other styles are sure to be in demand starting on p. 40. Finally, back in the May/June issue, we talked to Tom Porter of Malibu C for a sidebar on how water characteristics in Canada might be affecting your colour services and results. We got a great response, so we went back to the source for much more in this issue’s Colour story, “When Water and Colour Collide,” on p. 72. Let us know what you think! Email, call or find us at SalonMagazine.ca, Facebook or Twitter. Happy fall and happy trend-spotting!

Find me on Facebook at Facebook.com/salon52 or email me at Melissa@salonmagazine.ca.

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12-08-02 2:03 PM

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 21 issue 11

s a lo n m a ga z i n e . ca

Editor-in-chief

Melissa Hill > 416.869.3131 ext.102 | melissa@salonmagazine.ca group ART DIRECTor

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@salonmagazine.ca editor-in-chief (FRENCH)

Yasmin Grothé > 514.553.4404 | yasmin@salonmagazine.ca assistant Editor

Valerie Lam > 416.869.3131 ext.119 | valerie@salonmagazine.ca online editor

Jillian Wood > 416.869.3131 ext.112 | jillian@salonmagazine.ca designer

Elizabeth DiSilvestre > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | elizabeth@salonmagazine.ca Assistant to the Chairman

Pam Fulford

Shiny and New

fter struggling for months with the decision, I finally decided to switch from a BlackBerry to an iPhone. Once I had this hot little phone in my hands, I was really looking forward to playing with it. I couldn’t wait until the weekend to explore all the new apps and options. Initially I thought, “How silly to be excited about a phone! Really?” I suppose it was the novelty. Sort of like buying a fabulous pair of shoes and not being able to wait to wear them out and about! It’s a little rush, a thrill. Let's face it. Everyone likes new things. It’s a break from the day-today drudgery and boredom. Maybe this is why we often hear the term “fresh.” And nowadays, “fresh” is really the new “new.” Consumerism is built around this concept. I’m not sure which came first—consumers’ interest in purchasing or savvy marketers creating the desire for new. Whichever it is, the age-old desire for novelty has major allure. And if there's one place where a new experience can be easily offered, it’s in the salon. However, I’ve often heard from industry business experts that one of the main reasons why a client leaves his or her hairstylist or esthetician is because there’s nothing new being offered. What a missed opportunity! Encouraging a client to change it up has many benefits. Think how many of your client’s friends will exclaim, “You've got a new look! New hairstylist?” Your client is a walking billboard and guaranteed to be more loyal to you when his or her friends see the difference. Plus, most likely, you’ve added some new services in the process—whether it’s a new cut or colour—and these services add up to big bucks for the whole salon. Look at the explosion of nail services with the multitude of new gel and gel-fusion nail services. The options are endless, and consumers are loving it. The restaurant business got it right—they offer specials every day to entice their regular customers to come in more often. If you have had your clientele for a long time, I urge you to re-evaluate your consultation techniques. When was the last time you changed the look or service for clients? Assuming clients don't want change or making weak suggestions is dangerous to your business. Be confident! You’re the expert—be proactive. Give them plenty of options to let them know that they are top-of-mind in your eyes. They will walk out of the salon with a little extra kick in their step.

Jennifer D. Foster Contributor

Chris Tsintziras group publisher

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@salonmagazine.ca Associate Publisher/Sales Director

Jade Bateman > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | jade@salonmagazine.ca U.S.A. SALES REPRESENTATIVE

Samantha Anobile > 310.926.9288 | samanthaanobile1@gmail.com account executive

Megan Jeffery > 416.869.3131 ext. 220 | megan@salonmagazine.ca production manager

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@salonmagazine.ca operations manager

Karren Han > 416.869.3131 ext. 118 | karren@salonmagazine.ca circulation manager

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.1288 | F. 905.729.0227 | salon@mysubscription.ca Finance

Aylin Aykul > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | accountant@salonmagazine.ca BUSINESS ADMINISTRATOR

Candice Besselaar > 416.869.3131 ext.108 | candice@salonmagazine.ca cHAIRMAN

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@salonmagazine.ca vice-president & West coast editor

Greg Robins > 604.561.4971 | greg@salonmagazine.ca

Photo: alvaro goveia, makeup: LanaGmakeup.com

copy Editor

Subscription rates For Canada 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 + tax 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 HST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location for US 1 year (8 issues) $50 USD addr ess ch a n ge s Email: salon @ mysubscription.ca

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Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, PO Box 357, Beeton, ON, L0G 1A0 Canada

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The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

Laura Dunphy Publisher

salon > september 12

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printed in cana d a

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

salonmagazine.ca

12-08-01 3:18 PM

THANK YOU!

Dear Canadian Stylist American Crew is honored to be your brand of choice!

Thank you for voting American Crew as the best Men’s brand in Salon Magazine Reader’s Choice Award!

WHERE THERE’S MAN THERE’S CREW!

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LIKE US ON FACEBOOK AT FACEBOOK.COM/AMERICANCREW

12-08-01 12:04 PM

Hair: Janer Stewart at Angels for Clynol, Makeup: Maddie Austin, Photo: Tom Leslie

Check out SalonMagazine.ca this fall for the latest runway reports, catwalk-inspired beauty trends and a behind-the-scenes peak at some of the top looks created by the best stylists in the business.

What’s Trending Ted Gibson did it! Hair is officially a category on the ballot for the Oscars! Many thanks go out to Ted for making sure hairstylists are recognized for their work in film! However, his campaign isn’t over yet, as he’s hoping hair will be a category of its own some day.

Follow us on Twitter to hear about breaking beauty news and contests first! @Salon_Magazine: @tedgibson did it!!! Hair is on the @OscarsAwards ballot!!! ow.ly/bUyKq Congrats & Thank You! Xoxo @tedgibson: love the fact that Hair is on the ballot but... Needs its own @theacademy xo

“Like” it or not When our editor took a trip to B.C., she couldn’t help asking you to fill in the blank on our Facebook page: Hey West Coasters! My musthave product to help clients deal with a rainy July in Vancouver is ____________! Matthew Conrad SKP miracle oil leave in conditioner. love it. Kelly-Jo Romard Aveda’s Antihumectant Pomade! I might not be a west-coaster, but it gets lots humid on the east coast too! Christopher Bradford an umbrella, by bumble and bumble...the BUMBRELLA Sonia Provost Styliste sexy hair - weather proof Terrianne Clare Kevin Murphy - Hair Resort spray Jeffery Alexander Klassen WINE, and joico humidity blocker!

Online Exclusive Collections See collections from Janer Stewart, Sarah Ellson, Antonio Palladino and more during September! Last month, we asked:

What is the hottest trend for fall?

40 of votes

said Retro bouffants Tons of volume 36% Braids 24% photos courtesy ted gibson, thinkstock, crestock

talk to us! 22

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we want to hear what you have to say!

Follow us on Twitter, Facebook and Pinterest to stay in the loop. Don’t forget to use the #Contessa hashtag! salonmagazine.ca

12-08-01 2:09 PM

health | wellness treatments

Malibu MakeOver® Month Especially now, every client needs a Malibu MakeOver. Elite stylists worldwide are using this two‑step, gluten‑free wellness treatment performed exclusively in the salon to transform tone, texture, vibrancy and strength of hair affected by summer stress. Is the Malibu MakeOver on your menu?

Make every client fresh for fall.

100% vegan

www.MalibuC.com/prof | 800.622.7332

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crystal gel natural wellness treatment miracle repair hair reconstructor

12-08-01 12:04 PM

KEVIN.MURPHY KEVINMURPHY.COM.AU

UN.DRESSED UN.DRESSED is a stretchy, elastic paste that gives the hair a disheveled messy texture. UN.DRESSED contains Bees Wax for definition, Shea Butter for just the right amount of pliability, and Candelilla. UN.DRESSED has a weightless finish and a matte texture with a unique fresh and spicy fragrance.

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12-08-01 12:04 PM

HAIRLINES NEWS

Go Glossy MODEL PHOTO COURTESY OF MATRIX, PRODUCT PHOTOS: CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

Healthy, shiny hair is always on-trend and oil-based lines are making it easier than ever to achieve

salonmagazine.ca

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Matrix’s new ExquisiteOil uses moringa oil, which is plucked from the groves in the Himalayas, then cold-pressed and extracted. The plentiful antioxidant properties are packed into the ExquisiteOil line, which is comprised of Micro-Oil Shampoo to cleanse and replenish, Oil Crème Conditioner to detanlge without weighing hair down and Replenishing Treatment, a versatile serum that can be used as a smoothing and restorative treatment with the rest of the line or on its own to boost hair’s lustre and health. Schwarzkopf Professional’s BC Oil Miracle extends the success of the original Oil Miracle, which is enriched with argan oil for ultimate nourishment. Using micro-emulsion technology, the new formulations allow for the maximum benefit of argan oil, without weighing hair down. Oil Miracle Shampoo leaves hair touchably soft, and Liquid Oil Conditioner offers extra moisture and frizz control, while Gold Shimmer Conditioner can be massaged into hair for radiant shine and regneration.

september 12 < salon

12-08-01 12:46 PM

hairlines news

Hair Support

ike any trusted professional, clients wouldn’t expect any less than the truth from you, even when that means helping them with thinning hair. How to broach this sensitive topic? Start by asking open-ended questions, such as, “How do you feel about the health of your hair?” This gives clients an opening if they want to discuss the topic. Then make sure you have plenty of retail support on-hand—like these four new products— to address their concerns.

Aveda Invati Scalp Revitalizer An invigorating blend of Ayurvedic herbs, including tumeric and ginseng, helps energize and rehabilitate the scalp.

New Keratin Formula Revlon Professional reformulates Equave Instant Beauty line

or stronger, healthier hair, Equave Instant Beauty gets a boost with newly added keratin in the Hydro Detangling Shampoo, Hydro Nutritive Detangling Conditioner, Volumizing Detangling Conditioner and Blonde Detangling Conditioner. The result? Thicker, softer, supple hair that shines with vitality.

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Bosley Professional Strength Hair-Thickening Fibers Available in a range of colours, fibres can be applied with the Bosley Pro brush and finished with Non-Aerosol Hairspray and FiberHold Spray for weightless hold.

Next Generation Cuccio reinvents UV-gel colour technology

alling it “fourth-generation” technology, Cuccio Colour Veneer is a pure pigment UV-gel that is 100 per cent paint-free. Veneer won’t discolour, solidify, evaporate or harden over time, and the new formula gives hard yet flexible cured results. The conditioning soakoff promises to leave nails healthier. The new line comes in 24 colours, so clients can select from a variety of fashionable shades.

photos: CHRIS TSINTZIRAS, courtesy of cuccio

DS Laboratories Spectral.F7 & DNC-N Spectral.F7 is the first thinning-hair treatment that uses astressin-B, a peptide to prevent hair loss caused by stress. Spectral.DNC-N is a daily treatment that helps absorb and retain topical applications of thinning-hair products.

Sure Thik Fibers This product rebuilds hair with fibres made from real hair and instantly offers thicker-looking hair. The fibers are hypoallergenic, chemicalfree and will cling to existing hair and scalp upon application.

salonmagazine.ca

12-08-02 2:04 PM

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12-08-01 12:03 PM

HAIRLINES NEWS

A Better Blonde Joico launches Ultra High-Lift to help stylists create the ultimate bright shades

lient demand is huge for beautiful, cool, neutral blondes—the shades rocked by Carrie Underwood, Gwyneth Paltrow, Reese Witherspoon and a host of other o ther Hollywood blondes! Joico has responded with the launch of Vero K-Pak Color Ultra High-Lift, four new ultra-blonde, high-lift colours. With ultimate tonal control, no unwanted warm tones and lift between three and four levels, the formula does it all in one step.

fter entering on a whim when a client suggested it, Caylee Wasilenko, owner of Hype Hair Studio in Vancouver, has won big! She competed in the online web series Canada’s Best Beauty Talent, facing off against other top hairstylists from around the country. After being declared best in hair, her final match-up was against best-in-makeup winner, Marcia Garnes. Wasilenko was declared the overall winner after crafting two very different hairstyles on identical twin models. “To

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win was really exciting,” says Wasilenko. “It could have gone either way and I was really thrilled when they called my name.” As part of her prize, she’ll receive a trip to Paris, spreads in Flare, LOULOU and Hello! Canada and a beauty blog on Chatelaine. com. The added publicity for her salon and the business it has brought has been an added bonus. “I’m thankful for all the support I had throughout it all,” she says. To hear more from Caylee and other contestants, go to SalonMagazine.ca.

Sebastian’s What's Next Tour will be stopping in Toronto!

on't miss this event! On September 23 and 24, Sebastian will hold its next stop of the What’s Next Tour, an education event with the Sebastian Design Team exploring new looks from the End-to-End Shine collection. Happening at the trendy Artscape Wychwood Barns in Toronto, it's Canada's only stop on the North American tour. Guests will also be treated to a hair show, music, cocktails and lots of mingling with stylists from 20 VIP salons. Reserve your spot by contacting your sales rep or go to SebastianWhatsNextTour.com.

PHOTOS: CRESTOCK, COURTESY OF JOICO, L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

Top Talent

Caylee Wasilenko takes home the award for Canada’s Best Beauty Talent

salonmagazine.ca

12-08-01 12:47 PM

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join us: facebook.com/greatlengthscanada follow us: twitter.com/glcanada

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12-08-01 12:03 PM

hairlines news

Canada to represent at 2012 Goldwell Color Zoom

Congratulations to the Canadian finalists in Goldwell's Color Zoom competition!

T Creative Colorist Michael Shire Holt Renfrew Salon, Toronto

Partner Colorist Michelle Pargee Milica Salon Spa, Langley, B.C.

hese three hairstylists were selected from among 15 Canadian semi-finalists from British Columbia, Ontario, Quebec and Newfoundland. The finalists will compete in the Global Color Zoom live competition in London, England on October 14, 2012! Good luck!

New Talent Colorist Tammy Hanson Violet Hair Lounge, Nanaimo, B.C.

Salon International 2012 Preview

’Oréal Professionel and

Charlie Le Mindu are partners in crime to combat dull hair. Horizon Fix gives lift at the roots for plenty of oomph, while Bad Mud cream clay texturizes and Super Dust instantly mattifies hair with volume and durability. Le Mindu, a visionary hairstylist from Berlin, designed the look of the three new products, inspired by classic comic books.

salon > september 12

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photos courtesy of goldwell’s color zoom, product photo: chris tsintziras

TecniArt Super Style Heroes Come Calling

alon International, the U.K.‘s professional beauty mecca, will showcase top-of-the-line hair talent and unveil the latest styles and trends, October 13 to 15 in London. Highlights of this year’s lineup include educational seminars led by Colin Greaney and Antony Licata from Mahogany, Richard Ashforth of Saco with a special on-stage guest, and runway adaptations from é SALON’s Emiliano Vitale. The Salon Live theatre will be on-fire with stage demonstrations and shows from the Sassoon Academy, Patrick Cameron, TIGI and the official hair care sponsor to London Fashion Week, Toni & Guy. To top it off, the final international competition segment of Goldwell Color Zoom will be at Salon International, where winners will be announced and 2013 Color Zoom trends revealed.

salonmagazine.ca

12-08-02 2:04 PM

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HAIRLINES NEWS

Get Tickets to the Hottest Hair Show in Town Contessa early-bird tickets now on sale!

ow that you’ve entered this year’s Contessa Awards with your stellar collection of images, be sure that you and your VIP guests will be there to watch you win! Tickets for the gala are on sale now at an early-bird price of $150. Tickets include cocktail party, sit-down dinner, gala event and after party. Buy now before prices increase on October 12. Call 416-869-3131 ext. 108 to reserve.

Are you ready for eyelash tinting? New approval from Health Canada could mean a new revenue source for the salon

yelash services have been big business over the last several years and, now, get ready to add a new one to your menu: eyelash tinting. Since the 1930s, the use of coal tar dyes for products intended for the area of the eye has been prohibited and beauty professionals stayed away. But now, new synthetic coal tar dyes pose a significantly lower health risk and can be used safely by a professional who has been certified. CBON, Inc., importers of a RefectoCil, an eyelash and eyebrow tinting product popular in Europe, has developed a Health Canadacompliant training program for eyelash- and eyebrow-tinting. The training program covers the science of tinting, the proper procedure for application, protecting client safety, infection control and creating custom looks. For more information on the course and the products, go to www.cboncanada.com.

salon > september 12

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PHOTOS: CONTESSA 23, WINNER, ELITE MASTER, HAIR: GUYLAINE MARTEL, MAKEUP: ANNE-MARIE GIASSON, STYLING: PASCAL & JÉRÉMIE CONCEPT INC., PHOTO: ALAIN COMTOIS, BOTTOM RIGHT PHOTO: DAVID GRANDY PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF REFECTOCIL

Casa Dante Hair Studio Wins First Place in Total Look Competition

A Team Win

arnival of Beauty, the annual beauty show sponsored by Maritime Beauty, recently crowned Halifax salon Casa Dante Hair Studio—a first-time competitor in the category—as the winner of the Total Look makeover. Salon teams were asked to transform a model from “modest to magnificent.” According to salon owner, Dante Di Mattia, “Our team had to think about what was suitable to the model—her head shape, her skin colour, her facial features. We aimed to find a look for her that is wearable and modern. Congratulations to Chelsey Wheeler (makeup artist), and hairstylists Janine Abele, Holly Fredericks,and Virginia Micolucci!

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12-08-02 2:04 PM

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hairlines toolbox

Total Texture

Van Hong, Salon Blue owner and CityLine makeover artist shares his best tips for these easy-to-use stylers KQC iStick Clipless Curling Iron • Available in two cone-shaped barrel sizes from 1” to ½” and 1.25” to 0.6”

You’ll love… Of the curl shape, Hong says, “It’s almost like using a crimper, but the shape is uniquely different from a S-shape or finger wave.”

• Tourmaline and ceramicblended barrel

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You’ll love… Create open-ended curls with this clampfree iron. “It’s really versatile because you can make looser curls by wrapping hair around the base, or tighter curls by wrapping around the narrower tip. Or use the whole length of the iron for a soft, gradual curl.” says Hong.

• Ceramic and tourmaline waver emits far-infrared heat and ions for soft, shiny results • Large cool tip and ergonomic handle for maximum control • Heats up to 450°F in 60 seconds

How to Use It… “For traditional curls, take vertical sections and wrap the hair around the tool. For more soft, wavy curls that have a fingerwave effect, take horizontal panels of hair,” says Hong. The high heat of the tool will hold the curl throughout the day.

tools he’s used, simply clamp on hair for three seconds, release and move on to the next section. “For volume and root lift, angle the waver off-base, up and away from the scalp. For a beachier look, start at mid-shaft and work downward to the tip,” he suggests.

how to... Scruples’ New Glacial Collection

nspired by the icy cool tones found in glaciers, Charlie Price is the force behind this new collection of crisp cuts, vibrant colour accents and classic styling. The timeless 1920s bob is perfect for fall and has been refeshed with shades of rich plum, magenta and cobalt blue. Starting with a natural level 3 base, here is Price’s formula:

• Base Colour: True Integrity Opalescent Colour Crème Colour System Ash Black (1A)

• Prelighten: Power Blonde Lightening Powder • Dimension 1: Illusionist Brilliant Crème Highlights Crème Colour System Crimson (4RV)

• Dimension 2: Urban Shock Color Craze Purple with Blue • Dimension 3: Urban Shock Color Craze Pink To see the complete collection, as well as Price's colour formulas for each look, go to SalonMagazine.ca.

salon > september 12

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product photos: CHRIS TSINTZIRAS, bottom photo courtesy of scruples

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hairlines business

Business Troubleshooting Guide Salon business expert Paul Pagliaro offers decision-making tips for the top challenges that salons are facing

Is your salon being run by a team that supports your business goals, makes your customers feel welcomed and valued, and willing to improve?

“Ensure that collective staff goals support your business goals. If you want to generate a certain profit, each stylist should have a target so that the sum of those targets meets the business objective,” says Paul Pagliaro, president of Milano Software. “Once you’ve established each person’s goals, track them in real-time. For example, if an employee has a retail goal of $80 for the day, and he's worked half the day and made $25, then he'll be able to adjust the rest of his day to hit the target. And it's better to know that during the day than at the end of the day when it's too late.”

Client Service How is your salon “The key to great customer service is to do something that's providing the different,” says Pagliaro. “For example, give a small dessert to best customer your clients or give them a hand massage while they are having experience? a hair service. No one else does that, and you're giving them an experience that they will talk about,” he says. Another method is to communicate with your clients on a regular basis. “Send an e-blast with messages that are relevant, but be sure to show a clear benefit or promotion, and call to action."”

Retailing Where are the missed opportunities to increase revenue with retail sales?

“Retail revenue generates four times the profit of service revenue,” says Pagliaro. “Yet the industry average is to sell 8 per cent in retail revenue. The way to improve this is to make sure you carry the right retail lines for your client demographics.” Is argan oil the hottest retailer in your salon? Or maybe it's dry shampoo. “Reorder your hotselling items on a regular basis. It's about selling more of the same product and more frequently, not necessarily refilling stock when a certain bottle reaches a minimum inventory level,” says Pagliaro.

Financial Management Do you know where your money is going?

tip 36

Does your salon have an overarching business goal to feed your path to success? It should, says Pagliaro. “It’s key for the salon owner to develop an

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“It's critical for salon owners to prepare a budget three months before the next financial period. That way, they have a good idea of what they want to accomplish, which allows them to track and measure the company's progress,” says Pagliaro. And knowing the full financial picture means knowing how much revenue is generated, where the expenses are, and the proportions of each of those expenses to the total cost. It's also important to track your salon's budget, and capture real-time data against your long-term goals.

overarching objective and develop a five-year plan," he says. “If you visualize where you’ll be in five years, then you’ll have a better chance of meeting those goals and

Self-check How well is your communication with your staff? Are you meeting on a weekly basis about reaching your goals? As an owner, are you open to feedback as well?

Self-check When was the last time you asked your customers about their visit? Ask new customers for feedback as well, because they are more critical than loyal customers, who tend to overlook a few mistakes. Self-check You know you need to improve on retail if retail sales attribute to less than 8 per cent of total revenue. Do you have the right products on your shelf? Are they being sold at the right time? Is your staff trained to up-sell?

Self-check Is rent more than 10 to 12 per cent of total expenses, and payroll more than 42 to 45 per cent? If cash flow is a challenge, financial management might be a good area to improve on.

text: valerie lam

People Management

focus not only on what’s going on in your business, but what’s going on in the industry, social media, and other things that might affect your business.” salonmagazine.ca

12-08-02 2:04 PM

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hairlines shelf life

4 Natural Beauty Nourished by Nature is the new argan oil by Red-E To Go. Infused with a botanical blend, it’s perfect for clients who crave a high-gloss, healthy shine. Info: dwa.ca

Street Smarts TIGI Bed Head’s limited edition Masterpiece, for serious hold, and Hard Head, for conditioning and control, are part of the Urban Canvas line, which spotlights the art of graffiti artists. Info: tigihaircare.com

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Bold Streak Introduce clients to creative colours without the commitment with Eufora’s Creative Streak Collection, available in three colours that wash out. Info: eufora.net

Shine On Luminous Hairspray by MoroccanOil offers a strong finish to any look, with a shiny, weightless hold that protects against frizz and humidity. Info: moroccanoil.com

High Hopes Shu Uemura’s Volume Maker is a sleek, retractable, precision hair powder brush that pinpoints root lift and refreshes volume exactly where it’s needed. Info: shuuemuraartofhair.com

with Joico Structure Dust Matte Hair Powder, which can be sprinkled onto damp or dry hair at the roots, or massaged onto hair ends for extra definition. Info: structurehair.co.uk S

6 38

salon > september 12

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Photo: Chris Tsintziras, Text: valerie lam

Matte King Create volume and texture

For product use tips for Creative Streak and Volume Maker, go to SalonMagazine.ca. salonmagazine.ca

12-08-02 2:04 PM

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Live from the Catwalk

Predictions from the world’s top stylists for fall 2012

By Yasmin Grothé

BRAIDS Playing around with the great staples of fashion shows–plaits, ponytails, French twist–Odile Gilbert offers a resolutely modern interpretation where disparate elements meet and combine. And rather than resembling a mishmash, the details all come together fantastically well, for long hair and short hair alike. The foundation is highly structured–“Get your separations right!” says Odile to her team –whereas the ends are either pasted to the nape or worked with the iron, depending on the length.

“I used L’Oréal Professionnel tecni.art Fix Design to create the retro twist because it sets perfectly and mattifies the lengths when dried. It keeps the hair in place, and you can still brush it.” – Seb Bascle, stylist Paris Fashion Week 40

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF AVEDA, JIMMY HAMELIN (MONTREAL FASHION WEEK), L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, ROWENTA BEAUTY, TORONTO FASHION WEEK

or fall 2012, hair is all about revival and evolution. Even the simple braid is elevated to superstar status, a delicate trellis designed to create form and texture. Hairstylists also channel bouncy blowouts, the iconic '60s ponytail, and bigger--yet well-tamed--shapes. Wearable texture, natural ease and feminine appeal are all part of the equation.

salonmagazine.ca

12-08-02 4:00 PM

“The whole look is really beautiful and exquisite. The hair is simple, and center-parted with a loose knot. It’s based on the idea of the Madonna and religious iconography. It’s a ‘small head’ with a modern touch.” – Guido, Redken creative consultant, Milan Fashion Week

EMBELLISHMENTS

▼

For fall 2012, hair is ultra-feminine and fresh. Cascades of loose curls, ornamented headbands and feathered headpieces stole the show on many catwalks around the globe. In many collections, the inspiration is retro-goes-contemporary. To create the feather headpiece look, bring the lengths to the forehead and smooth them with a brush into a turban, using an elastic tie at the roots. Roll on the second elastic a couple of centimetres higher to give it height.

“It’s a post-war mood, but with a very modern vibe, thanks to the current rolled-up fringe and high ponytail. ” – Denis Binet, head hairstylist, Montreal Fashion Week

salonmagazine.ca

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september 12 < salon

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“Designers take the top-knot to a different level, adding mega texture using the Rowenta Beauty Professional Flat Iron and firm hold hairspray.” – Dee Dagher, lead stylist for Rowenta Beauty, World MasterCard Fashion Week, Toronto

VOLUME Big hair makes a striking comeback for fall but, fear not, control is on everyone’s mind. The idea here is to create volume and texture by backcombing and using a combination of spray, volumizing powders and mousse. It’s all about shape. The new generation of mousses gives body and shape, making the hair easier to sculpt without over-fixing. “Almost like shape memory tools that help the hairstylist,” says Anthony Turner, who created some of the hairstyles during Paris Fashion Week. S

“This was a fun 1960s movie-inspired look but ultimately with a modern neatness. Instead of the hair being tight to the head, we create more volume.” – Jorge Joao, head hairstylist, World MasterCard Fashion Week, Toronto 42

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See more photos from the fall runways and watch Wella global creative director, Eugene Souleiman, share his tips and tricks for creating gorgeous hair on the runway at SalonMagazine.ca/Videos. salonmagazine.ca

12-08-02 2:17 PM

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12-06-05 3:37 PM

Hot Tips on the Runway From subtle and sophisticated to spicy and surprising, here are five nail trends spotted for fall By Valerie Lam

The New French Say goodbye to the traditional white cap of a French manicure, and make way for innovation. Don’t be afraid to pair the pale pink nail with a surprising hue or texture, like metallics or lace, to show off the tips.

Lollipop Shades Nails are a canvas where anything is possible. “Quirky, cool and bohemian manicures swirl a palette of colours that flare from brilliant coral and yellow to smoldering dark navy,” says CND co-founder and style director Jan Arnold.

Matte about Minimal Understated colours complement the fall wardrobe. “The varied palette of colors adds another accent to the list of special touches–think beadwork, paneling, fur and embroidery–that appeared on the runways during New York Fashion Week,” says Suzi WeissFischmann, OPI executive VP and artistic director of the Germany collection.

Dark and Moody Dial into this season’s moody palette. To play up the dark side, Elle, the Essie celebrity manicurist for Phillip Lim, simulated shadows on a noir nail by accenting the edges, making the nails looks like comic book pop art.

Metallica At Pamela Love, the ombre design graduated an earthy brown into an extraterrestrial gold toward the nail tip. S

PHOTOS: TOP ROW: CND AT JOY CIOCI, OPI AT BCBG, SECOND ROW: CND AT NICOLE MILLER, ESSIE AT PHILLIP LIM, BOTTOM ROW: ESSIE AT PAMELA LOVE

salon > september 12

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Curls, Crimps and Waves, Oh My! By Melissa Hill

cross the fall runways, casually cool texture ruled. It’s hair that says, “I just rolled out of bed, ran my fingers through my hair and ran out the door.” Whether it was a ponytail, a twist or a bouffant, runway stylists used texture to make the looks fresh for 2012. It’s a trend that’s playing out in salons across the nation as well. “Clients just want to see movement really, whether it’s waves, curl or their natural texture,” says Jorge Joao, owner of KOI Hair Studio is Brampton, Ont. and winner of the Contessa for Texture last year.

Texture Type “Clients are asking for all kinds of texture in my salon,” says Victor Ruso of Soho Salon and Spa in Etobicoke, Ont. “Curls, crimping, rick rack, whatever suits the

look they’re after. There was so much smooth going on for so long, people got bored with that and were looking for something different.” In Vancouver, Dana Lyseng, owner and creative director of Supernova Salon, has been cutting texture into straight hair using a razor with a result that’s “edgy, shattered and a little chaotic.” On the other end of the spectrum are her clients looking for loose, wavy, glamorous hair achieved through the use of hot tools or big, beautiful blowouts with a round brush. “Teaching is important,” says Lyseng. “When a client is getting her hair done like that, I spend almost all of the blow-dry time telling them which products to use, when to put it in, how to section, how to hold the curling iron.”

Teaching Clients Thomas Cameron, stylist at Taz Salon,

sees clients that want to save time, enhance their natural texture and (finally) get away from the flat iron. “I put the brush in their hand and see how they’re doing their hair and then I try to work with it,” he says. Joao also finds teaching his clients how to complete their looks integral when dealing with texture. “We show them a quick way with an iron, working in six large vertical sections with a spiral wrap,” he says. “It gives lift and movement and a natural, lived-in effect. They want natural movement, but don’t want to spend two hours in front of the mirror.” If anything, Ruso says texture is getting bigger and fuller as clients get more comfortable with the look. The return of ‘80s fashion also might have something to do with the tendency toward big hair.

Types of Texture From short, choppy styles to long beachy waves, movement and perfectly imperfect looks are the name of the game. victoria beckham

salon > september 12

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drew barrymore

photos: crestock, product photos: chris tsintziras, courtesy of wella, redken

What does texture look like this season? Are perms really back? What do clients want? We posed these questions and more to four Contessa 2012 Texture finalists to find out.

Zooey Deschanel

salonmagazine.ca

12-08-02 2:10 PM

Texture Favourites

Contessa Texture stylists tell us their choice products for creating the right look

The New Perm With all the focus on beachy waves and curls, the industry is again taking a look at perms. But this is not the service that stylists remember from the ‘80s and early ‘90s. New permanents have steered clear of the ammonia- and thiobased formulas of old. The Arrojo American Wave system uses an ionic waving lotion and soft tool rods to create a natural-looking wave pattern and the service can create a variety of textures, from loose waves to full-blown curls. “It’s great for anyone who wants to add volume and fullness or any kind of wave and curl pattern,” says Nick Arrojo, founder and owner of Arrojo products. Another technique that also promises a variety of texture styles is the Digital Perm, which originated in Japan, launched in the U.K. last year and is possibly coming to Canada this fall. It uses digitally controlled, thermal heating and the results can last up to six months. Though, according to the stylists interviewed, there are only a few clients who have taken the leap of permanent texture—yet. “Clients are asking me about it, but no one is committing to it yet,” says Ruso. That may change as the service becomes mainstream once again. One thing is for sure: the tendency toward undone looks and the embracing of natural texture—combined with stylists cutting for ease of styling—has resulted in more good hair days, says Joao. And that’s certainly good news for everyone. S

NICOLE KIDMAN

salonmagazine.ca

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september 12 < salon

12-08-02 2:09 PM

s a l o n m a g a z i n e r e a d e r ’ s c h o i c e awa r d s

photo: chris tsintziras

Congratulations to the Winners!

Serum/Oil Moroccanoil Men’s Brand American Crew Permanent Colour Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Royal Deep Conditioner/Reconstructor Joico K-Pak RevitaLuxe 48

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Dry Shampoo Redken Powder Refresh 01 Hairspray Eufora Elevate Finishing Spray Polish/Lacquer Brand OPI Nail System CND Shellac Hair Extension Brand Great Lengths salonmagazine.ca

12-08-02 2:01 PM

For the first time in Canada, beauty professionals were invited to vote for their favourite professional products. The votes have been tallied and now the winners are in! Thank you to all of the readers who voted and congratulations to the 2012 Salon Magazine Readerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Choice Award winners!

Shampoo & Conditioner Duo Paul Mitchell Awapuhi Wild Ginger Shampoo and Keratin Cream Rinse Hair Loss or Thinning Hair Nioxin 3-Part System Kit Appliance Brand Babyliss salonmagazine.ca

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12-08-02 2:00 PM

profile

Vidal Sassoon An industry remembers the man who changed everything

On meeting Vidal for the first time… “I first met Vidal in 1977, as a 17-year-old assistant. Vidal was visiting the U.K. and had requested to meet the London apprentices. We assembled after work and

salon > september 12

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Vidal, instead of using the platform that had been prepared for him, chose to sit in our midst. I have never forgotten how he opened his address; he looked around the room, smiled and said, ‘At last, now I get to talk to the important people.’ Having the figurehead of the company take such care and consideration with the most junior members of the company made each of us feel extraordinarily proud and was my first experience of the incredible charisma that Vidal possessed. He was a great teacher, a supportive mentor and the technical master. He was the consummate professional and I absorbed everything I could.” On working together… “On one occasion on live TV, Vidal teased me goodnaturedly about my Essex accent, saying, ‘You know Mark, it took me 10 years to

lose my cockney accent,’ to which, I replied, ‘Vidal, it took me 10 years to learn it.'" On what made him a legend... “Early in his career, for nine years, Vidal experimented with new cuts and techniques, searching for simple, elegant styles. By 1963, he had pioneered the Bob and Five-Point Cut, which made him famous and gave him the title ‘the founder of modern hairdressing.’ His process involved thinking of hairstyling as an extension of someone’s total appearance: bone structure, facial expressions and geometry of shape. He was a ball of creative energy, searching for something to set his work apart from the rest. He said, ‘I just couldn’t continue working with the look of the day, I wanted to create a new look, something that reflected what was going on around me.’ The

photos courtesy sassoon family; next page: getty images

hen Vidal Sassoon died on May 9, 2012 at the age of 84, the professional beauty industry lost its icon—a man whose influence reverberates worldwide, across three generations of hairstylists and their clients. Mark Hayes worked for Sassoon from the time he was 17 years old and as the current Sassoon International creative director, he is tasked with carrying on the education and hairstyling legacy Vidal Sassoon left behind. Here, he remembers the man who changed everything.

salonmagazine.ca

12-08-01 2:06 PM

THANK YOU! Schwarzkopf Professional would like to thank the readers of Salon Magazine for choosing IGORA ROYAL as the best Permanent Hair Color and OSiS DUST IT as the best Styling Product for 2012!

WINNER NER

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Together. A passion for hair

12-08-01 12:01 PM

profile watershed moment came when he collaborated with close friend and client, British fashion designer, Mary Quant. As Mary launched her new collection at British Fashion Week, Vidal and his team cut the hair of the models into asymmetrical bob shapes that were totally revolutionary and caused an overnight—and international— sensation. The era of the Sassoon geometrics had begun. His ‘wash-and-wear hair’ changed personal style forever.” On the legacy Vidal has left behind… “Our industry lost a visionary and creative genius, and the world has lost an amazing human being. All of us at Sassoon will miss him dearly, and will honour his memory by upholding the standards that he lived by and continuing the work he loved so much. The Sassoon organization has 31 salons and 14 academies around the world, with 500,000 salon appointments booked and 180,000 hair professionals taught annually. Exponentially, Vidal’s legacy grows each year and continues to redefine the global message of hair design. The world rarely encounters someone who had the profound impact that Vidal has had, and everyone in the industry is indebted to Vidal’s courage and single-minded vision. I feel that you could speak to any stylist, colourist, creative director—anyone in the industry, really—and they will have a story about how Vidal influenced their career in some way. He left a lasting impression that will be felt for many generations to come.” S

Sassoon shows off two contrasting examples of his work after a teaching session in London in 1975.

Tributes to Vidal Sassoon "He defined an industry and even changed how we thought about ourselves! I often say it's not about being remembered, it's about never being forgotten. On behalf of the beauty industry worldwide, you, my friend, will NEVER be forgotten!” Robert Cromeans “I saw Vidal Sassoon and Tim Hartley on a morning show when I was a teenager, showing a haircut that was very versatile, and I thought ‘that’s how I want to do hair.’ That’s the reason I joined Sassoon— because of his work. He took hairdressing to the next level.” Lorraine McAndrew, creative director, Sassoon Toronto “I thank him for sharing with us all his passion for love! That is what drives me to be inspired and step out of the box. Vidal Sassoon changed the perspective on the art of hair and I thank him for teaching me that!” Palma Anshilevich, The HairSpot, Toronto “Vidal was a lifelong inspiration, mentor and friend. Vidal was not only instrumental in revolutionizing and commercializing hair in the West but he kept intact hair as an art form. I am proud to say that Vidal watched and coached my father and myself to master the art of hair with grace, generosity and touch of genius.” Angus Mitchell, co-owner, John Paul Mitchell Systems

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“Vidal was to me the definition of what it meant to be a great hairdresser. He was who I wanted to be. But there was more to him than all the fantastic haircuts he developed. He was a true inspiration and he loved hairdressing and hairdressers more than anything.” Edwin Johnston, The Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. "At a point in history when women were entering the workforce with a stronger determination and drive for independence, Vidal Sassoon was greatly influential. I can say that if it wasn't for his work and determination, the women's movement of the day may not have advanced as far as it did. If you ever need to be inspired, his message transcends the decades.” Mervin Harper, via Facebook.com/Salon52

The legend begins. In 1965, Vogue journalist Grace Coddington models the famous five-point cut created by Sassoon.

“None of us would be doing what we do, the way we do it, if it were not for him. He inspired us all.” Sam Hilts, via Facebook.com/Salon52 “In the '70s, Vidal Sassoon was the ONLY place to go if you were out there, ahead of the curve. My girlfriend had the blunt bangs, angular haircut, one side way shorter than the other, which was all unheard of back then!” Karen Fagan, via Facebook.com/Salon52

Always the consummate teacher, Sassoon shares his techniques with stylists in 1970.

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With With some some of the of the industry’s industry’s most most renowned renowned andand influential influential artistic artistic teams teams taking taking to the to the stage, stage, thisthis year’s year’s lineline up up of awe-inspiring of awe-inspiring catwalk catwalk shows shows andand intimate intimate educational educational sessions sessions are are suresure to take to take youryour breath breath away. away. TakeTake the the opportunity opportunity to be to amazed, be amazed, inspired inspired andand educated educated by these by these industry industry greats greats at one at one of the of the many many Salon Salon LiveLive andand Salon Salon Seminar Seminar sessions sessions on offer. on offer. Avoid disappointment – Book your Avoid disappointment – Book your tickets now! tickets now!

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13-15 13-15 OCTOBER, OCTOBER, EXCEEXLCLONDON EL LONDON (0)20 (0)7744 UK 0844 UK 0844 894894 2000 2000 I Int’l I Int’l +44+44 20 7744 2000 2000 I salonexhibitions.co.uk I salonexhibitions.co.uk Tickets can Tickets be booked can be online booked or byonline telephone. or by telephone. Advance ticket Advance pricesticket are only pricesavailable are onlyonavailable bookingsonmade bookings by Friday made12byOctober Friday at 12 October 9pm BSTatvia9pm these BSTmethods. via theseTickets methods. purchased Tickets purchased after this time afterwill thisbetime charged will bethecharged full rate.the full rate.

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salon > september 12

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Hair: Vivienne Mackinder, Hamptons, N.Y. Colour: Sue Pemberton Makeup: David Maderich for M.A.C Cosmetics Styling: David Widjaja Photos: Julia Pogodina

Kool Kids on the Block Vivienne Mackinder’s new collection is a flamboyant feather in the cap

nspiration sometimes comes when you’re not looking for it. The exquisite plumage of roosters and chickens—Vivienne Mackinder’s husband’s latest passion—inspired the vibrant colours and shapes in the Kool Kids collection. Sue Pemberton’s colour choices and Japanese cult-like street culture also play an influence, resulting in a stand-out collection that was a nominee this year for the NAHA Editorial Stylist Award. S

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Double Dutch Prize

Hester Wernert-Rijn transforms wefts into a winning collection

ndividual. Stunning. Evocative. Amsterdam hairstylist, Hester WernertRijn, started with metres of hair wefts from Balmain Hair and crafted them into hair designs with movement and stage presence. For the second time, Wernert-Rijn took home the Hairdresser of the Year award with this show-stopping collection at the Duth Coiffure Award Gala. S

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salonmagzine.ca

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Hair: Hester Wernert-Rijn, Mogeen, Amsterdam Makeup: Kathinka Gernant Styling: Venus Waterman Photos: Duy Quoc Vo

salonmagzine.ca

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salon > september 12

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salonmagazine.ca

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Hair: Katie Mulcahy, Lisa Shepherd Salons, Birmingham, U.K. Makeup: Maddie Austin and Caroline Piasecki Styling: Harriet Cotterill Photos: Jack Eames

Sweet Innocence Soft and gentle, Katie Mulcahyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection goes easy on the eye

his beautiful collection from Katie Mulcahy was a finalist for the British Hairdresser of the Year Awards in the Midlands category. The breezy, textured styles and muted, tone-on-tone shades are the perfect combination for easing from hot summer into cool, crisp fall. S

salonmagazine.ca

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Jason Kearns debuts his newest collection, Once in a Blue Moon

Maverick Moonlight I

“

wanted to use blue hair and make it look as real as possible,” says Kearns. “It's literally a maverick's version of a blue moon. The hair was frizzed, braided and fishtailed before putting it all together. Sometimes hair design can look more complicated than it actually is.” Kearns also built the set, inspired by an old painting in a book and the fabric used within the painting. S

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salonmagzine.ca

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Hair: Jason Kearns Kearns & Co Hair, Toronto Makeup: Hanoch Drori Wardrobe and Styling: Lucian Matis, Ivana Musura, Joan Balder Photos: Richard Dubois

salonmagzine.ca

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Hair: Mark Hayes and the Creative Team, Sassoon Salon and Academy, Toronto Colour: The Colour Creative Team Makeup: Daniel Koleric Styling: Lucie Perrier Photos: Colin Roy

faded glory

Elegiac, the midseason Academy collection by Sassoon, captures Romanticism as it falls

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salonmagazine.ca

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ilitary ardour gives way to a beautiful decay as the Napoleonic Empire falls. Inspired by this era of transition, the Elegiac collection features hair from the deepest, darkest mahogany, graduating through burnt reds and bright copper into sheer shapes that are gilded in soft rose and antique gold. The result is a melancholic nostalgia for a buried kingdom now remembered in whispers. S

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september 12 < salon

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Hair: Tim Kuo, Markus J, Vancouver Makeup: Timothy Hung Styling: Annie Yang Photo: Patryk Widejko

Tim Kuo’s Style Masters collection steals the stage

Smooth & Sculpted

or Tim Kuo’s 2012 Revlon Professional Style Masters competition collection, he took a different approach than last year’s winning images. “I went with more structure and shape, and I sculpted the hair, playing with texture. I wanted to show the versatility of the products and how, with a single head of hair, you can create such different styles,” he says. It was a winning combination for the second time, as he again became the country winner for Canada. Kuo was also chosen to be one of the seven country winners to compete live in Budapest at the International Style Masters event (for more, see p. 85). S

To see the rest of the images from Kuo's winning collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca.

salon > september 12

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salonmagzine.ca

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c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry

Maximum Impact Anna Pacitto gives a nod to Canadian fashion

or her Elite Master Contessa 23 collection, Anna Pacitto of Pure Salon in Montreal focused on just one source of inspiration. “We stylists look to so many sources, like designers and fashion, for inspiration. I saw Marie Saint Pierre’s collection and I knew I wanted to fuse that kind of fashion sense in the hair,” says Pacitto. “It’s very rare that I’m inspired by only one energy, one atmosphere, but this was the case.” Drawn to the minimalism and coils of Marie Saint Pierre’s designs, Pacitto brought the coils into her own minimalist hair collection. S Hair: Anna Pacitto, Colourists: Martin Alarie and Louis Charland, Makeup: Richard St. Laurent and Sevan Tatoulian, Styling: Pascal et Jérémie Concept, Clothing Designer: Marie Saint Pierre, Photos: Ara Sassoonian

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salonmagazine.ca

12-08-01 12:49 PM

EDUCATION COMPETITIONS CE HOURS

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Purchase Your Tickets Now! probeauty.org/issemw 866.229.2386 Tickets also available at: Hair by 2011 NAHA Finalist Charlie Price

EXPERIENCE THE BEAUTY SHOW FOR PROFESSIONALS New dates for 2012!

November 4 - 5, 2012

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colour

When Water and Colour Collide

o matter how long you’ve been a colourist, you probably still dread the moment when a client comes back with a complaint. From colour fade to inaccurate shades to muddy blondes, it’s not necessarily you— or your colour manufacturer—at fault. Instead, it might be the very water in which your client is showering every day at home. Hard water—meaning water laden with high levels of minerals—is problematic for stylists, particularly in Canada where water is generally harder than in the United States. According to Tom Porter, CEO and founder of Malibu C, there are three primary water issues: minerals present in hard water, the pH of the water and chlorine in the water. Calcium and magnesium are the most affecting minerals when colouring. “The bottom line is: what’s in the water at home affects what happens in the salon,” says Porter. Porter uses this visual to explain the challenge

Service Tip Porter views the water challenges as both a hairstylist’s responsibility and opportunity. While it’s your responsibility to do the best you can for your clients, it’s also an opportunity to create an additional item on your service menu. Try adding a hair treatment like Malibu Makeover to offer to clients—especially in the month of September, when hair is coming off a season full of stressors like sun, wind and salt water.

Is Your Colour Affected? Challenge: Hard water Problems: Hair that moves in sections, blondes that get muddy, lack of vibrance and shine, fast-fading colour and colours that don’t match the swatch. Where you might find it: Brandon, Man., Calgary, Kitchener, Ont., Prince Edward Island, Toronto, Yorkton, Sask. Where you probably won’t: Inverness, N.S., Quebec City, Vancouver, Wetaskiwin, Alta. Do you agree? Sound-off at SalonMagazine.ca! Data according to Tom Porter's research and water samples.

Decoding Your Water (parts per million)

Soft Water

20 parts per million (ppm)

salon > september 12

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Go to MalibuC.com/WaterTest to enter your postal code and check out the specific results for your area.

100 - 150 ppm Hard Water

40 - 90 ppm Mildly Hard Water

0 - 40 ppm

colourists face: “Imagine each strand of hair with an invisible wall of tiny rocks around it.” Each day, the problem gets worse and worse, as a client stands relaxing under the shower for three to five minutes because the heat opens the cuticle, allowing more minerals in. Then, when he or she comes to the salon, the stylist is trying to colour over a layer of rocks. This leads to colour fade, muddy blondes and lack of vibrance, among other problems. The most resistant hair is usually found at the top of the head and in the crown, because that is where the water in the shower is hitting the head. The solution? Remove the minerals prior to colour application. A hair treatment like Malibu C Crystal Gel Normalizer, applied with heat, provides a fresh canvas for colour application. Porter is quick to point out, however, that it’s not about good water or bad water. “Some of the best water to drink is the worst water for hair, so it’s more about the challenges presented for hair colour by the type of water in the community,” he says. S

100

120

150 ppm+ Significantly Hard Water 140

photos: middle: contessa 23 finalist, ontario hairstylist, hair: eva molenda, makeup: angie min, photo: doug mcmillan, thinkstock

If you’ve had problems getting the right colour results, the solution may not be a different brand of colour. Check your water instead. By Melissa Hill

160

salonmagazine.ca

12-08-02 1:50 PM

COLOUR SYSTEM

UNIQUE WORLDWIDE Removable without acetone

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nails

Focusing on Nail Health How to keep clients’ nails happy after the soak-off

By Valerie Lam

t’s inevitable that the day will come when a client wants her long-lasting gel nails removed, even temporarily. Kim Tanner, president of Kim Tanner and Associates, predicts that with the popularity of gel and UV-cured polish, there will be an accompanying rise in popularity for natural nail strengtheners and hardening systems. “Most clients who are on board with the UV gel polish are natural nail customers. They love their natural nails and don’t want to do anything to deter growth or damage them.” To keep clients happy and ready for their next nail service, there are two things you’ll want to see in their nails. “After the gel product is removed, it’s not just hardness you want in the nail, but elasticity,” says Tanner. “Elasticity makes the nail more flexible so it won’t break when they’re growing out. In the Canadian climate when nails can get too hard, they can easily snap off. Nail strength is a combination of elasticity and hardness.” “Having natural nail care is in conjunction with applying an artificial surface,” says Linda Wood, national nail brand sales manager at American International Industries. “It’s much like a building: if you have a poor foundation, the building will not stand. An artificial coating, even if it’s just a polish coating, depends on the quality of the natural nail.” According to Judith Fairn, Canadian sales manager at Nail Tek, there are four types of nails: strong and healthy nails; soft nails that show some peeling; dry, brittle

nails with thick ridges; and resistant nails that really ask for a turbo-boost. A nail tech can learn to diagnose the nail condition of the client in order to customize a graduated nail-care program for her. Especially for “Healthy gel nails are clients transitioning out of gel nails, the much like a building: the nail tech should be artificial surface depends watchful, keeping track of the changes on the foundation of the in the natural nail, in natural nail,” says Judith order to customize nail Fairn on the role of care services. Skin care is also a natural nails. factor when removing gel products. Most soak-off solutions contain a high concentration of acetone, which begins to affect the skin around the nail. “Star Nail has reformulated a safer and nourishing removal system that conditions the nail,” says Tanner. Emollients are added to the soak-off system, which helps to gently remove the gel from the nail bed and moisturizes the skin. “A good test to check the moisture content of a soak-off is to rub a dab between fingers, and if the skin feels dry there is too much alcohol in the solution,” suggests Elaine Watson, VP of marketing and sales and global education director at Star Nail International. S

Five Tips for Proper Removal 1

Avoid intense scraping on the natural nail by waiting the full period of time when clients’ nails are in the soak-off solution. To help, use a timer.

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Take a file and buff the top surface of the artificial coating before soaking off. This creates pores in the product, so that the soak-off can penetrate the coating faster.

If clients are soaking nails in a bowl, cover the hands and bowl with a towel to avoid any fumes from rising.

4 Place marbles in the bowl with soakoff solution. The banging of the marbles against clients' nails will loosen the gel.

photo: thinkstock

Kim Tanner shares her best practices for nail techs:

5 Send clients home with cuticle oil for use in between appointments.

salonmagazine.ca

12-08-01 2:06 PM

Just so easy to match

Up to 84 Just Gel Polish colors and counting. Now with matching mini nail lacquers in 54 shades. Find the perfect match for your favorite Just Gel Polish. Meet our new nail lacquers ready to go for quick touchups or pedicures. Be a matchmaker. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just so easy with so many Just Gel Polish colors and nail lacquers. Model is wearing Just So Lovely

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www.ibdbeauty.com

12-08-01 12:00 PM

NAILS

Autumn Nails

Get your salon ready to transform clients’ tips with the changing season

OPI adds two scarlet-toned glimmering colours to the Diamond Dust-Infused Designer Series.

Free-spirited and multi-faceted, China Glaze’s new Luster Chrome collection offers unconventional, intense and captivating hues.

Help reinforce clients’ natural nails with LCN’s 7-in-1 Wonder Nail Recovery, which acts to fill, strengthen, smooth, brighten and harden nails that are sensitive, thin and brittle.

Give clients sparkly nail art designs with the Rhinestone Box from It’s So Easy, which contains 450 acrylic rhinestones in four different shapes.

Restrained glamour saturates Essie’s new collection, Stylenomics, which is inspired by the modern working woman.

PHOTOS: CHRIS TSINTZIRAS, COURTESY OF CND, GELISH, LCN TEXT: VALERIE LAM

For the client looking for a pop of colour, try CND Additives. Experimental pigments can be layered over a Shellac manicure or blended with a sculpting powder or gel.

SpaRitual offers six colours in the new Rock collection. Each shade is infused with rhyolite, a volcanic granite for truly hard nails. S

The new eight-colour collection, House of Gelish by Gelish, stalks the catwalk with each hue interpreting a fashion classic and complementing the fall wardrobe.

salon > september 12

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salonmagazine.ca

12-08-02 1:49 PM

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12-08-02 5:19 PM

ESTHETICS

The YearRound Tan Four dos and don’ts for spraytanning perfection. By Valerie Lam

➺Don’t...

overspray. “The key to not overspraying is to create a natural flesh tone,” says Brandon Cardinal, VP of sales and marketing at Norvell Sunless and Norvell University. “We train people to do one wet saturated coat, and that way the natural flesh tones will remain after the spray tan: the darker parts of your body are going to be darker, and the lighter parts will remain lighter.” Cardinal also reminds techs that the DHA in the tan product won’t fully absorb into amino acids until approximately 24 hours later, so the way clients look right after an application will not be as dark as a day later.

➺Do...

➺Don’t...

ignore the overspray area. “I see a lot of places that have a dirty, dingy atmosphere,” says Cardinal. “If you don’t take care of the overspray area, it’ll look unprofessional. Make sure the salon space has adequate filtration. All the overspray needs to be filtered out and taken out of the room. Use reduction fans and offer nose filters and eye protection to promote a safe tanning environment.”

➺Do...

refresh your tan solutions. “The quality of colour on the skin has a lot to do with the solution sprayed,” says Cardinal. “A solution that is 90 days old won’t last as long and maintain the colour like a fresh solution.” He recommends applying the freshest solution possible on clients, and avoiding ordering a quantity that cannot be used in less than 90 days. S

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The Spray Technician’s Checklist Before the tan • Screening devices. “We recommend protective eyewear, nose plugs and a lip balm to seal the lips, which are sensitive to UV rays,” says Ron Routly, VP of Sales and Marketing at Uvalux Tanning and Support. • Allergy spot test. “Test clients by using a very small amount of product on the inside forearm. If they’re susceptible to any allergic reaction from cosmetics, then they should consult a doctor before they go in,” says Routly. • Exfoliate and moisturize well. “Exfoliate the body as much as possible to get an even tan, especially on tougher parts of the skin, like knees and elbows,” says Routly. “Ask clients to

moisturize before the tan with a product that does not contain organic oils, which can cause discolouration,” says Czartoryski. After the tan • Wait to shower. “Remind clients not to shower, swim or engage in an activity where they would sweat until the next day. It typically is an overnight process for the DHA to colourize and take full effect,” says Routly. • Retail sunless products. “Don’t be afraid to sell sunless products. Just because a customer buys a lotion, he or she can’t go home and apply a full body tan on his or her own. These products are normally for face, legs and in between appointments to maintain the tan,” says Cardinal.

PHOTO: THINKSTOCK

mind the fingers and toes. Tamara Czartoryski, director of communications at Fake Bake, suggests, “Have clients hold out their hand as though they are reaching to pick something up from the ground, and spray this loosely-held grip for natural coverage. Finally, use baby wipes to clean up the nails, removing residue from the product.”

salonmagazine.ca

12-08-01 2:05 PM

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interiors

1 2

salon > september 12

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salonmagazine.ca

12-08-01 2:07 PM

4 1. Since the Whitby location is connected to a fitness centre, clients can wind down with an energizing beverage, including protein shakes, coffee, juices and slushies. Instead of hiring a full-time receptionist, stylists and staff are encouraged to help each other out, which helps build support for one another. 2. The Kérastase ritual area is a bit removed from the buzz of the salon, where clients receive treatments and scalp massages. 3. Woody and Amy created their own private label, Woody Michleb, which offers 26 products. The salon also carries Kérastase and Wella, Nioxin and Sebastian products.

Photos: Jennifer Trauzzi

4. Everything must be neat and tidy. According to Amy, it doesn't reflect well on the salon if brushes and blow dryers are strewn across stations, and the mess is still visible after the salon has closed. The plexirods are lined with LED lights, which give off a pleasant glow. White chairs indicate the styling station, and the black cylindrical seats are where chemical treatments are done.

Details

Staff

Owners: Woody and Amy Michleb

6 Hairstylists 2 Estheticians 1 Receptionist, on as-needed basis

Location: Whitby, Ont. Space: 2,100-sq.ft.

salonmagazine.ca

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Website woodymichleb.com Brands Woody Michleb Kérastase Wella Nioxin Sebastian

Clean and Serene

Woody and Amy Michleb share the details behind their latest salon and spa location

“

By Valerie Lam

hite, white, white, always white,” says Amy Michleb of her husband Woody Michleb’s design concept across all four locations. The duo has been partners in life and hair, and can practically finish each other's sentences. “It creates really good lighting when you’re working on clients and brings out the colour,” adds Woody. “We use a lot of natural light from the windows. It’s very clean.” It’s not only the sunshine that beams through the Whitby, Ont. location, but also the essence of the Woody Michleb brand. “I think the location reflects the kind of clientele you end up getting, and the energy that fills that space,” says Amy. “We have to keep our brand very close to the target audience we want to draw, clients aged 35 to 50 who like to look and feel good, which also leads up to something also mature and very clean. The couple is also aware of the competition and changing scene in the industry. “Everything’s accessible at the touch of our fingertips, and you’ve got girls on the Internet teaching clients how to do their hair at home. As a salon owner, you have to step up and do something original,” says Amy. “If you’re like every salon that’s been around for the past 50 years, you’re not giving the client something to come in for. You have to provide them with an experience, and I suppose that’s more important than the haircut nowadays...” S

september 12 < salon

12-08-02 1:47 PM

SCOOP

Congratulations! John Paul Mitchell Systems has announced that Jason Yates will take over the role of VP of marketing. Yates will oversee marketing and play a key role in product development for the company. Previously a hairstylist and platform artist, Yates has more than 20 years of experience in the professional beauty industry. Keune Haircosmetics has named Yves Henrichon, a veteran hairstylist in the industry for more than 35 years, as regional sales manager in Canada. As part of the Keune Haircosmetics team, Henrichon will be working with the company’s distributors to focus on expanding the team and the Keune brand across Canada.

”H

SAVE THE DATES!

BEFORE, THERE WAS HAIRCOLOUR.

NOW, THERE IS INOA.

SKP’s Hairapalooza Montreal is taking place September 30 at Marche Bonsecours, sponsored by Chalut and Salon Magazine! Three on-stage cutting competitions will take place: Professional, New Talent and for the first time, 3D Men’s. Contact: 450-438-4153. The Canadian Esthetic Professional Conference is coming to Toronto for two days, offering networking and eight certificate courses for advanced foot care, eyelash tinting and perming and more. Held on September 16 & 17, admission is free and registration is required at www.estheticconference.com.

App Alert: Kevin.Murphy

INTERNATIONAL

For clients and salons who love Kevin.Murphy, keep updated with the newly available app for iPad and Android tablets. See the latest collections, download new product releases, preview holiday specials, watch hair how-tos and more.

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Order Desk 1-800-642-3818 L’Oréal Professionnel • PureOlogy • Matrix • Logics Alterna • Kevin Murphy • DS Laboratories • Lakmé Tressa • Babe • Dannyco • Ego • Kasho • One Styling Bioelements • OPI • SpaRitual 82

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SKP Opens New Canadian Headquarters The Schwarzkopf office in Mississauga, Ont. is not only shiny and new, it’s also built to last with the faintest ecological footprint. Designed and built under the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED), the new office means improved building performance in sustainable site planning, water efficiency, energy and atmosphere, material and resources, indoor environmental quality and innovation, and design process for the developer and tenant. S

photoS COURTESY OF KEUNE HAIRCOSMETICS, JPMS, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

Photo coutesy L’Oréal Professionnel

salonmagazine.ca

12-08-02 1:42 PM

Online hairdressing training and education from the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best hairdressers

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o 1 year subscription (8 issues) to anywhere in Canada $40.00 (gst included)

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o Save $60.00 with 3 copies of every issue for you and your colleagues. 1 year subscription (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 (canadian orders only,

American Crew pg 21.........................................800-387-7980......................... www.americancrew.com

must be to same location. gst included)

o 1 year U.S. subscription (8 issues) $50.00 USD o Please note my change of address and/or details below for my Salon Magazine subscription.

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American Crew Face Off pg 10-11....................800-387-7980......................... www.americancrew.com/faceoff Beautynet.com pg 93.........................................800-720-6665......................... www.beautynet.com China Glaze Bohemian Lusture pg 37..............800-621-9585......................... www.chinaglaze.com Clean & Easy Pomegranate pg 99....................800-621-9585......................... www.cleanandeasyspa.com

signature

CND Shellac pg 12-13......................................800-387-7980......................... www.cnd.com/cndshellaclayering

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sign & date to confirm you want to receive a subscription to salon magazine

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o I’ve enclosed a cheque payable to: Salon Communications Inc. Bill my o VISA Card o AMEX Card ______________________________________________ card number

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Cuccio Naturalé pg 53.......................................800-762-6245......................... www.cosmoprofbeauty.com Dashing Diva Design FX pg 39..........................866-665-3482 ........................ www.dashingdivapro.com Dashing Diva French Wrap Manicure pg 79.....866-665-3482 ........................ www.dashingdivapro.com Elevate pg 18......................................................800-720-6665......................... www.elevatemagazine.com

expiry date

Essential Looks Hairapalooza pg 86................800-463-3081......................... www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca

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Essie Fall Collection 2012 pg 33.......................877-309-8619......................... www.essie.com

o Mr. o Ms. Given Name(s) ____________________________________ Surname _______________________________________ Title ___________________________________________

Eufora Beautifying Elixirs pg 27.......................800-6EUFORA........................ www.beautifyingelixirs.com Goldwell Nectaya pg 19....................................800-387-3873......................... www.goldwell-northamerica.com Great Lengths pg 29..........................................800-268-2242......................... www.greatlengthscanada.com

Business Name____________________________________

Hot Tools Keratin Iron pg 43.............................800-487-8432......................... www.hottools.com

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Phone _________________________________________ Email__________________________________________ Website ________________________________________

o Please email the weekly salon52 newsletter for free o Please send me periodic offers from related companies Section B How would you classify this location? o Salon o Spa o School o Manufacturer o Distributor o Franchise o Freelance o Home Based o One of multiple locations with the same owner o Other (specify) ______________________

ISSE 2012 Midwest pg 51..................................800-468-2274......................... www.probeauty.org/issemw Joico Vero K-Pak Colour pg 100.......................877-426-2590......................... www.joico.com Kevin.Murphy Un.Dressed pg 24......................800-387-2962......................... www.kevinmurphy.com.au L’Oréal Professionnel pg 10-11.........................800-361-8017......................... www.lorealprofessionnel.ca LCN Colour System pg 73.................................888-859-3434......................... www.lcn.ca Malibu C pg 23...................................................800-622-7332......................... www.malibuc.com/prof Matrix Gloss Sync pg 2-3..................................888-935-1885......................... www.matrixcanada.ca Mixed Chicks pg 89............................................877-888-0480......................... www.mixedchicks.net MyHairdressers.com pg 83............................................................................... www.myhairdressers.com

# of Employees ____

Nail Harmony Artistic Colour Gloss pg 67....................................................... www.artisticnaildesign.com

What services are provided? o Hair Care o Skin Care o Nail Care o Hair Removal o Spa Treatments o Tanning o Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________

Nail Harmony House of Gelish pg 45.............................................................. www.gelish.com

What do you do? o Co-owner o Owner o Manager o Hairstylist o Nail Technician o Electrologist o Colourist o Esthetician o Laser Technician o Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ se214

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salon > september 12

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OPI Germany Collection pg 35..........................800-341-9999......................... www.opi.com Pivot Point pg 94................................................888-735-4247......................... www.pivotpointcanada.ca Redken Chromatics pg 15.................................866-973-3536......................... www.redken.ca Salon International 2012 pg 54-55................................................................... www.salonexhibitions.co.uk Schwarzkopf Igora Royal pg 4-5.......................800-463-3081......................... www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Schwarzkopf Igora Royal & OSiS pg 51............800-463-3081......................... www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Sebastian Professional Shine pg 6-7................800-267-1962......................... www.sebastianprofessional.com/shine SpaRitual In Pink Collection pg 31...................877-SPA-RITUAL................... www.sparitual.com Structure Dust Matte pg 17..............................877-426-2590......................... www.structurehair.co.uk Uans Crema pg 91............................................800-461-8267......................... www.uans.com/crema Uvalux Spray Tanning pg 77..............................800-661-6292......................... www.uvalux.com salonmagazine.ca

12-08-02 12-07-31 6:06 4:18 PM

EVENTS

Revlon Professional Style Masters Takes Over Budapest WHO: Twenty-two Canadian stylists, salon owners and distributors joined nearly 3,000 international beauty industry professionals at the Revlon Professional Style Masters gala. Canadian stylist Tim Kuo was one of seven stylists who competed for the title of Global Style Master. The winners from Canada, France, Germany, Italy, Poland, Russia and Spain presented their styles live on stage at the end of the night. WHAT: In addition to seeing the work of the stylists who compete in the Style Masters competition, the night was also full of international celebration for what hairstylists do best. Gun-Britt Zeller presented Clandestine, a collection of tight, ‘50s-inspired cuts. Charlie Price brought his Cinematic collection to life with video, a singer and pianist and glamourous movie-inspired hair. American Crew presented four segments of men’s styles, including modern-day cowboys and a take on their Mattematic collection. WHEN & WHERE: April 28 – May 1 in Budapest, Hungary PHOTOS: ANTHONY CROSS AND MELISSA HILL

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12-08-01 12:50 PM

EVENTS

Hairvolution WHO: Education from Goldwell special guest Nick Arrojo and his team, Goldwell creative team members Michelle Pargee, Timothy Switzer, Rodica Hristu, Dale Seeman, Sylvain Bellerose and KMS California creative team members Edwin Johnston and Michael Crispel. WHAT: Highlights include Switzer and Hristuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s introduction of Nectaya, a new ammonia-free colour from the TopChic family. Johnston and Crispel mixed cutting education with retail tips, specifically the importance of asking the right questions. Motivational speaker and stylist Charles Marcus shared business savvy, and Nick Arrojo demonstrated that working hard and sticking to it will yield results. WHEN & WHERE: June 17 -- 18 in Niagara Falls, Ont. PHOTOS COURTESY OF GOLDWELL AND SALON MAGAZINE STAFF

For video from Hairvolution West, including interviews with the stylists, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Videos.

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salonmagazine.ca

12-08-02 1:38 PM

TODAY’S LOOKS | TOMORROW’S TRENDS

ALLIED BEAUTY ASSOCIATION

Doors open at 8:00 am for Tabatha Coffey

12 0 2

A 1st , B A ber rk y r cto Pa a g l h & O ede a C t p m 0 a 3 St r e b ary m te alg p e C S

Meet Tabatha Coffey at the Calgary ABA Buy your tickets online at www.abacanada.com Calgary Ad - revised.indd 1 087.se.s12.aba.1.indd 87

12-07-24 10:58 AM 12-08-01 11:59 AM

EVENTS

Fashion on Fire at Studio H WHAT: Heather Wenman, owner of Studio H, hosted Fashion on Fire, a celebration of the salon’s fifth anniversary as well as a fundraiser for Merrymount Children's Centre. L’Oréal Professionnel and several local sponsors, circus performers, agile gymnasts, and silent and live auctions were all part of the lineup of five fashion shows that marked each year of business. To top it off, some of London’s most handsome firefighters were also on hand to look after the fashionable crowd. WHEN & WHERE: May 26 in London, Ont. PHOTOS COURTESY OF STUDIO H AND L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

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salonmagazine.ca

12-08-01 3:23 PM

Toni & Guy for Label.M WHO: Toni & Guy education manager for North America, Anthony Edge, and international artistic directors Efie Davis and Francesco Fontana. WHAT: Two hours of onstage education and inspiration with the Toni & Guy team for Label.M. With styles modified from fashion runways, the looks mixed editorial with commercial. HIGHLIGHT: At the end of the show, Edge presented Label.Mâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s international award for newcomer distributor to John Donato and his company, Artist Choice, which hosted the afternoon show. The award recognized their success with the Label.M line. WHEN & WHERE: June 11 in Toronto PHOTOS: MELISSA HILL

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september 12 < salon

12-08-01 3:23 PM

EVENTS

Redken Lights a Spark in Montreal WHAT: Redken Fusion 2012, a mix of education, inspiration and networking for 1,100 Redken salons, stylists and distributors. WHO: Educators at the event included Redken Education artistic director, Sam Villa, Sean Godard, Marilyn Rose, Jorge Joao, Chris Moody, Lauren Hagen, Kristi Valenzuela and Peter Mahoney. Attendees gathered on Sunday night for a kickoff party, featuring a 45-minute runway show of some of the hottest looks created by a team of top Redken artists, and the guest educators. The following two days were chock-full of education on hair colour, cutting, styling, business and career management. On Monday night, everyone gathered for a Mardi Gras-themed celebration, with cocktails and a sit-down dinner. WHEN & WHERE: May 26 -- 28 in Montreal. See more pictures on our Facebook page! Facebook.com/Salon52 PHOTOS COURTESY OF REDKEN

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salonmagazine.ca

12-08-02 3:02 PM

still unbeatable and still without argan oil

Aveda Born to Style Contest Finds Winning Canadian Hair Talent WHAT: For the first time, the Aveda Institute held a contest across Canada to uncover aspiring hairstylists with raw talent, bold creativity and passion. Entrants from high schools across Canada were asked to submit a video on why they were born to style. Finalists were invited to create looks for a judged runway, held between two locations in Toronto and Winnipeg. The Born to Style show in Winnipeg was also held in tandem with the grand opening of the new Aveda Institute flagship location, which is a school and retail store. WHO: Congratulations to the winners, who won full tuition scholarships to the Aveda Institute of their choice! Kristin Brezden, Vancouver -- Aveda Institute Vancouver Meladee Gammelsetter, Toronto â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Aveda Institute Toronto Elsa Hailemariam, Calgary -- Aveda Institute Calgary Jessie Lacina, Toronto -- Aveda Institute Toronto Robyn Thompson, Okotoks, Alta. -- Aveda Institute Winnipeg WHEN & WHERE: May 14 in Winnipeg and May 16 in Toronto PHOTOS COURTESY OF AVEDA

Crema by UANSÂŽ THE ORIGINAL

try for yourself at uans.com/crema 1-800-461-8267

salonmagazine.ca

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september 12 < salon

12-08-02 3:12 PM

EVENTS

Canadian Finalists at Wella Trend Vision 2012 WHAT: Wella Professionals 2012 Trend Vision Canada WHO: Five industry pros judged the 15 semi-finalists to determine seven finalists in each category, as listed below. At the end of July, finalists will move on to Los Angeles and the North American Trend Vision competition. In October, the winner from each category will be heading to Madrid to compete for Canada in the International Trend Vision. Best of luck to all! Colour: Philip Ferreira, Axis Hair Salon Jessica Gauvin, ART.KOI.FUR Caroline Lavoie, Kavero Coiffure Virginia Micolucci, Casa Dante Suzanne Pack, Texture Hair Salon Michelle Porowski, Onare Salon Mujda Sultani, Hair Xtacy

Young Talent: Stephanie Bilas, Valentino’s Grande Salon Remi Cardin, Ode Salon Styliste Jade Francoeur, MIUZ Equipe Creative Kimberly Hoang, Bliss Hair by Design Mathieu Hubert, Propagande Coiffure Thea Serbec, Valentino’s Grande Salon Sabrina Tremblay, Toque & Cie

WHEN & WHERE: Semi-finalist judging June 25 in Toronto PHOTOS: MELISSA HILL

Premiere Orlando Packs in Professional Education WHO: More than 52,000 beauty professionals gathered over three days of classes, inspiring stage performances and instruction at this year’s Premiere Orlando. WHAT: The main stage included hair artistry by platform artists Takashi Kitamura at John Paul Mitchell Systems, celebrity stylist Ted Gibson, Heath Grout and the TIGI SoHo Academy Team, Chrystofer Benson from Matrix, Nick Arrojo, Sam Villa, and CND’s Jan Arnold and the Blonds. Top companies lit up the hair colour stage with presenters from Redken 5th Avenue NYC, Scruples, TIGI Colour, Matrix and All-Nutrient. WHEN & WHERE: June 2 - 4 in Orlando, Fla. PHOTOS COURTESY OF PREMIERE ORLANDO

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salonmagazine.ca

12-08-02 1:34 PM

Share your work

Showcase your talent on Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hottest community for hairstylists, makeup and nail artists. Upload your photos, be eligible to be featured as the Pic of the Day or be entered in the monthly contest. Plus, be featured in Salon Magazine or â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;dresser, the the hothot newnew magmag for iPad. featured in Salon Magazine or Styles & Stylist, for iPad.

Head over to www.beautynet.com today Sign up to the new free community of beauty professionals Browse, create and share

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Beautynet 12-08-01 11:59 AM

EVENTS

SEPTEMBER 2012 CAPILEX, INSPIRATION 2012 September 9 Centre des Congres de Quebec Quebec City Info: capilexbeaute.ca INSPIRING CHAMPIONS CHAMP CAMP September 9 – 11 Toronto Info: inspiringchampions.com CANTIN BEAUT é September 14 – 16 Centre des Congres de Quebec Quebec City Info: cantinbeaute.com CANADIAN ESTHETIC PROFESSIONAL CONFERENCE September 16 – 17 Double Tree by Hilton Toronto, ON Info: estheticconference.com STAR BEDARD September 23 – 24 Palais de Congres Montreal Info: starbedard.com

SALON PROFE S SIONAL S

HELPING WOMEN FACE CANCER HEAD ON Your gift of $10 will provide a CHEMO CAP for a woman with cancer.

Aveda Educational Programs Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892

AGNES, CANCER SURVIVOR

“While I was going through my cancer treatment, I was determined to face cancer head on. And thanks to Look Good Feel Better I got the help I needed.”

This fundraiser in partnership with and

CALGARY ABA September 30 – October 1 Calgary Stampede Park Calgary Info: abacanada.com

Hair CLASSES

Donate now at lookgoodfeelbetter.ca

Free 2-hour cosmetic and hair workshops for women with cancer.

HAIRAPALOOZA MONTREAL September 30 Marche Bonsecours Montreal Info: 450-438-4153 x2239

Great Lengths Educational Programs Info: greatlengthscanada.com KMS Educational Programs Info: 877.670.6767 L’Oréal Professionnel Educational Programs Classes include Absolute LP, Colour on Colour, Essential Texture and the H3 Academy Info: 800.361.1861 Matrix Educational Programs Info: 888.422.6879 Redken Educational Programs Info: 866.9.REDKEN SKP Educational Programs Info: 905.625.7200 or contact your local Schwarzkopf distributor TIGI Educational Programs Info: 800.259.8596 Urban Beauty Systems Educational programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions; in-salon classes available Info: 866.731.4327

Nail and Esthetics CLASSES Aveda Educational Programs Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892

cHI Educational Programs Info: 888.251.8466

CND Educational Programs Info: contact your local CND distributor

global best beauty Educational Programs Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988

LCN Educational Programs Info: lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings

Goldwell Educational Programs Including Trend Zoom seminars Info: 877.670.6767

Star Nail Educational Programs Info: 800.661.9997 S

LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER IS A PROGRAM OF THE CANADIAN COSMETIC, TOILETRY AND FRAGRANCE ASSOCIATION FOUNDATION | REG CHARITY #13374 0316 RR0001

salon > september 12

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12-08-02 1:33 PM

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monthly, except for February, June, August and December by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 21 Issue 11 salonmagazine.ca

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last look

Talking About Texture “I’ve always had a passion for it. I like to manipulate hair and make it do things it doesn’t want to do. It’s a whole new set of boundaries. It was nice to jump into that category and compete with other people’s imaginations and see where you can take it.”

59% spend $26 or more a month on products for their curly hair.

People with textured hair buy on average three hair-care products a month versus those with straight hair, who buy on average one hair care product a month. —From Texture Trends report by TextureMedia, www.texturemediainc.com “I’d like to say that curls are enjoying a renaissance; after all, for fall fashion week, designers like Rebecca Minkoff and Nicholas K were featuring something they called “next-day hair”: disheveled, slightly frizzy curls that one stylist described as “hair that looks like you’ve been living in the woods for three days.” Finally, my time had come!” —Judith Newman, talking about curls in The New York Times

—Jorge Joao, 2012 Contessa Multicultural Hairstylist of the Year winner on entering the category.

This year, for the first time, there was an entire runway event during New York Fashion Week, called Texture on the Runway. Exploring different kinds of textured styles, it featured looks created by stylists from Matrix, Nick Arrojo and Minardi Luxury Color Care, among others. Look for it again next year during the fall runway shows!

Curls are like cashmere. You want to put your hands in them. I’ve been totally re-inspired to go curly.” —Actress Erika Christensen, from NaturallyCurly.com

salon > september 12

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photos, top: Hair: Jorge Joao, contessa 23, winner, MULTICULTURAL hairstylist, makeup: MeAghan Bell-Gregory, Photo: Randell Rowe; courtestY of aveda, celebrity photo: Keystone press agency

Fashionable Locks

Even once they find the “Holy Grail” of products that work for them, 46% of curly-haired people still continue to try new products.

salonmagazine.ca

12-08-01 3:29 PM

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