Salon Magazine, September 2017

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september 17 SALONMAGAZINE.CA

Features 54

On the Dark Side

56

Blonde Diversity

58

Colouring Outside the Lines

With the fall season just around the corner, we speak with the experts about three ways to refresh brunette colour.

A guide to helping your clients find their right shade of blonde.

We take you behind the scenes of our exclusive cover photo shoot with Redken.

60

Collections

88

Art & Style

90

Redken; Toni & Guy; Darren Ambrose; Ella & Jade; Scott Sloan; Hermiz Daniel; Blushes; Anica Iordache; Florencia Taylor

On the heels of Revlon’s Style Masters competition in Brussels, Belgium, we caught up with Canadian finalist Stephane Scotto di Cesare to discuss competing on the global stage.

Up for the Challenge

70 HERMIZ DANIEL, JOEY SCANDIZZO SALON, AUSTRALIA

After competing in the American Crew All-Star Challenge for the second consecutive year, Canadian finalist Hassan Nasser shares what he learned from this year’s competition.

ON THE COVER: Hair: Jorge Joao, Catherine Allard & Marie-Ève Faucher, Redken Canada Makeup: Marie-Laure Larrieu & Joëlle Boucher Styling: Marie Sophie Tétrault Photo: Alain Comtois

22

s e p t e m b e r .1 7

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deepshine direct ®

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68 SCOTT SLOAN, SLOANS, AUSTRALIA

72 NATIONAL HONOURS: CANADIAN NAHA WINNERS

26

Editor’s Letter

28

Publisher’s Note

30

SalonMagazine.ca

33

Hairlines

80

Contessa Gallery

82

Profile

84

Maximizing Colour Services

Get set for the fall season with the latest care, colour and styling products, plus our nail polish picks.

Thelma Bento, Contessa 28 Finalist, Ontario Hairstylist of the Year

A Master in her Own Right: Rodica Hristu

Make the most of your colour services with four tips to increase your revenue.

86

Interiors

92

Events + Scoop

98

Best Nine

86 LUDIK COIFFURE, BELOEIL, QUE.

This month at SalonMagazine.ca

Playful Vocation: Ludik Coiffure, Beloeil, Que.

48 66

FROM CATWALK TO SIDEWALK

ELLA & JADE HAIR TEAM, AUSTRALIA

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s e p t e m b e r .1 7

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s t s i i t m r i a ak e e p s s art t s k t loo y r eig h e w v t e , h role a lig , y e n a tm r f ec e n. p o tio l wit h m l y ba t u be a

EIMI THE GLOBAL LANGUAGE OF STYLING #SOPHIEXWELLA #SPEAKEIMI ©2017 the wella corporation ALL rIGHTS rESErvEd

EDITOR’S LETTER

F

Colourful Perspective rom nature to fashion to hair, colour plays a defining role in how many of us view the world. When it comes to hair colour, it can go a long way to defining your personality.

High quality ingredients in our

Having naturally dark brown hair, I’ve never thought of myself as

MENONLY ONLY

blonde. While I’ve been highlighting my hair on the regular since

product range provides daily nurturing and shape to all types of hair while maintaining the hair’s health, restoring its natural look and preserving its structure.

become a shifting perspective, even for me.

the mid-’90s, I’ve still maintained my brunette status. In my mind, blondes are more platinum than golden but that has definitely In fact, the range of blondes now spans a spectrum so extensive it’s nearly undefined. I’ve realized this change in blonde status for a few years, but it wasn’t until I spoke with the colourists in“Blonde Diversity” (page 56), that I fully realized how versatile this hue had become. And it also means that blondes will likely always remain the

Jojoba extract Thanks to its special texture which corresponds with the natural moisture of the scalp, this unique natural extract reinforces hair with moisture and shine, while protecting it from weather damages.

Black Caviar extract Provides long-term softness to hair while nurturing it with essential components. The black caviar extract contains an abundance of essential fats and proteins, as well as minerals (phosphor and potassium), vitamins A, D, B2 and B12, iron, selenium, magnesium, micro-elements and amino acids.

most requested in-salon colour service.

Whether you love icy blonde, rich brunette, vivid reds or bold neons—each palette is a way of expressing your individuality. In every way, our hair colour often sets the tone for how others view us and how we define ourselves. It’s not everyone who has a career that can instantly change lives in a matter of hours, but hairstylists and colourists have that ability—to create a transformation that can have a pivotal effect on someone’s life.

For many reasons, September has always been a time of year that sparks a fresh start in me, and many of you probably feel the same. From feeling the cool crispness in the air to wrapping up in the warmth of fall fabrics, to the vibrant, rich hues that surround us as change. Many of your clients are also likely looking for a chance to refresh, restart and begin again. Whatever end of the shade spectrum your clients find themselves leaning toward, in this issue you’ll find the colour inspiration, expert advice and pro tips needed to give them a creative, customized colour that’s perfect for them.

Anna Lee Boschetto Editor-in-Chief Find me on Facebook at SalonMag, on Twitter and Instagram @SalonMagazine or email me at Annalee@SalonMagazine.ca.

26

s e p t e m b e r .1 7

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

the leaves change colours, the first glimpses of fall naturally inspire

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F E E D YO U R C O LO R

H ave mo re f u n th a n eve r wi th o u r i m p rove d 3 in 1 co c kt a il wh i c h of fe rs yo u i n f in ite poss i bi l i ti es i n CO LO R , CAR E a n d S H I N E .

www.revlonprofessional.com @RevlonProCanada

PUBLISHER’S NOTE ISSN 1197-1495 volume 26 issue 11 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Anna Lee Boschetto

416.869.3131 ext.102

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR

Stephanie Gallant

416.869.3131 ext.113

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH)

Yasmin Grothé

s a l onm a ga z i ne . c a

514.553.4404

annalee@salonmagazine.ca

stephanie@salonmagazine.ca

yasmin@salonmagazine.ca

ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Veronica Boodhan 416.869.3131 ext.119 DIGITAL EDITOR

Lucy Mazzucco 416.869.3131 ext.122

veronica@salonmagazine.ca

lucy@salonmagazine.ca

COPY EDITOR

Liz Bruckner

Let’s Come Together and Celebrate

GROUP PUBLISHER

Laura Dunphy

416.869.3131 ext.110

laura@salonmagazine.ca

VICE-PRESIDENT STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS

Greg Robins 604.561.4971 greg@salonmagazine.ca PRODUCTION MANAGER

Alan Swinton 416.869.3131 ext.111

A

OFFICE MANAGER

number of years ago, a television personality called the

Nicole Lippay 416.869.3131 ext.114

Contessas “the Oscars of the beauty industry” and the

production@salonmagazine.ca nicole@salonmagazine.ca

OPERATIONS MANAGER (ON LEAVE)

Karren Han

phrase stuck. When I watch the red carpet coverage at the

CIRCULATION MANAGER

Oscars, what Hollywood’s hottest stars seem to enjoy most is having

Adrian Holland

an opportunity to see a lot of their friends whom they just don’t see

helpdesk@subscriptions.salon

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

Tom Arkell 416.869.3131 ext.220 tom@salonmagazine.ca

throughout the year, and the Contessas are very much like that. Whether they are finalists or not, hairstylists, nail and makeup artists cheer each

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other on. Distributors and manufacturers, competitors or not, are there socializing with longtime friends from across the country.

Every year you clearly feel the camaraderie and closeness, so much so that those from outside the beauty industry often marvel at how

A D D RE SS CH A NGE S

Email: helpdesk@subscriptions.salon or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

friendly everyone is. Whether you want to be inspired by the amazing collections or get to know the top talent in the industry, the Contessa

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Awards is a night that will help you build your network. And it’s also a fantastic way for you to gather your own salon team, get dressed up

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and enjoy the party.

As we are ramping up for this year’s Contessa Awards, in this issue

641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.)

we are talking all about colour, which continues to be the fastest growing category of salon business. Our editors have packed this

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2

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issue with plenty of stories that will help you maximize business, along with curating some of the best collections that showcase

Printed on recy

gorgeous colour. We are also thrilled to have partnered with Redken artists, Jorge Joao and Catherine Allard. It was a collaborative shoot that brought together our creative visions and you’ll find the behind the scenes from our shoot in Montreal on page 54.

Now that it’s September, it’s time to rally together your salon gang and take advantage of the Contessa early bird ticket sales and get your party dress ready for the big night on November 12 in Toronto.

Laura Dunphy Publisher

28

s e p t e m b e r .1 7

National Magazine Awards PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

Canada for an exclusive cover photo shoot with international Redken

GOLD

SILVER

TOP FIVE

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2009 2008 2002/2001 2000/1999 1996

This magazine is recyclable.

Please recycle where facilites exist.

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the joi of healthy color NEW REPAIR+ PERMANENT CRÈME COLOR

NATURAL RED GOLD CELEBRATE THE FIERY GLOW OF FALL WITH A BRAND-NEW COLLECTION OF GINGERY HUES INFUSED WITH A GOLDEN GLEAM • Natural Red Golds have a natural base to prevent fading to pink • Up to 2X shinier hair* • 100% replenished and restrengthened hair** • Nourishes and protects hair, sealing in moisture, softness and shine for up to 30 shampoos** * Vs. untreated hair. ** Based on laboratory testing of damaged hair.

JOICOCANADA.COM

©Joico Laboratories® HAIR Mandy Kinn & Dana Erwin COLOR Mark Mileti PHOTO Hama Sanders

online at

won our “So You Think You Can Style?” Mermaid Hair photo competition. Visit SalonMagazine.ca to learn about the inspiration for creating this winning look!

COLOURFULLY INSPIRED Craving some creative colour inspo? Touting one of the largest archives of collections online, we’re sure to have what you’re looking for. Visit SalonMagazine.ca/collections and get your fill of inspiration from the world’s top stylists.

MORE THAN JUST A HAIR SHOW Hair show season is upon us with all the biggest brands gathering their international families to celebrate top

GET YOUR TICKETS HERE! Tickets to our famed and glam CONTESSA GALA

NOV 12, 2017

CONTE S

NOV 12SA GALA , 2017

Contessa Awards gala go on sale this month! Sign up to our newsletter at SalonMagazine.ca for early access

30

s e p t e m b e r .1 7

end of the year. While the stage shows are exciting, Ramsey Sayah (aka Dear Hairdresser) shares the biggest reason he loves travelling to this big show every year.

Head to SalonMagazine.ca to see his story.

and first dibs to the best seats in the house. This is one event you don’t want to miss!

SalonMag

talent and showcase upcoming trends from now to the

Salon_Magazine

salonmagazine

See all of the complete collections in this issue at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections!

SalonMagazine

PHOTOS: ASHLEY HODGES FOR JAMIE STEVENS, MAKEUP: GEMMA KIMMINGS, STYLING: MASH MOMBELLI PHOTO: BARRY JEFFERY; SO YOU THINK YOU CAN STYLE WINNER DUSTIN SCHUMANN, LONDON, ONT., MAKEUP: DOM MONTES, PHOTO: DOUG MCMILLAN; PHOTO: WELLA PROFESSIONALS

FANTASTICAL COLOUR Congratulations to Dustin Schumann of London, Ont. who

Salon Magazine

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

FOR A SECOND YEAR IN A ROW, WE ARE VOTED #1 PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR: GOLDWELL TOPCHIC IN-SALON SMOOTHING SYSTEM: GOLDWELL KERASILK

©2017 Bosley, Inc. Beverly Hills, CA 90212 | All Rights Reserved. | Printed for Scientific Hair Research, LLC.

#supercuts |

Vickie V., Stylist and Manager Silverlake Supercuts | Los Angeles, CA facebook.com/SupercutsHollywoodBlvdAndSunset/# supercuts.com

“This is my ‘wonder’ product and I use it on anyone with thinning hair! Follicle Energizer helps protect and repair the hair follicles which can support healthier hair growth. My clients tell me that their hair has never looked or felt better, which gives them a renewed sense of confidence. I love being able to help them feel better about themselves.”

BOSLEY PRO TOP 10

bosleypro.com | 800.BOSLEY1

HEALTHY HAIR Follicle Energizer What it does:

Advanced leave-on scalp serum helps to protect and repair, while supporting healthier hair in areas of low-density.

• Adenosine Triphosphate acts as a stimulating scalp activator • Biotinyl-GHK protects and repairs in areas of low density to help create a healthier scalp environment • Apple Stem Cell Extract helps to promote healthy hair growth • Copper Gluconate helps support a healthier scalp and skin

HAIRLINES NEWS

NEW AND IMPROVED Revlon Professional relaunches its Nutri Color Crème with two new shades.

As clients get ready to change up their colour this season, Revlon Professional has relaunched

All Clean Purify hair with the new Redken Clean Maniac Collection.

Nutri Color Crème with updated formulas containing Nutricolor

The Clean Maniac Clean-Touch

Synergy Complex, providing colour,

Shampoo and Conditioner are

shine and care all in one. The new

powered with micellar technology

Nutri Color Crème contains ionic

(a hero product in skincare), which

pigments for intense, vibrant

provides hair with the ultimate in

colours, provitamin B5 (panthenol)

cleansing. The collection also contains

for moisturizing and nourishment,

the brand’s first neutralizing scent to

a conditioning system blend of

prolong that fresh hair feeling all day

ingredients for the hair cuticle and

long—even in the hustle-and-bustle

the new addition of grapeseed oil

of city environments. The face of the

for its antioxidants that neutralize

collection is supermodel Cat McNeil

hair from free radicals. In addition

who, since starting her career at

to its ball and tube formats, the

age 14, has appeared in Vogue and

colour line is now also available

walked the runways for major fashion

in backbar sizes for ease of use. For more

houses worldwide.

versatile colour options, the range is also intermixable with the brand’s Revlonissimo

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: REVLON PROFESSIONAL, REDKEN CANADA, WELLA PROFESSIONALS

Colorsmetique and Young Color Excel.

Keep It Cool WELLA PROFESSIONALS UNVEILS ITS NEW KOLESTON PERFECT COOL COLLECTION. From rose gold and violet to ash grey and chocolate brown, more clients are embracing the cool side of the colour spectrum. To cater to your clients’ cool colour needs, Wella Professionals has released its new Cool Collection

by Koleston Perfect; four permanent shades that include cool tones, such as pearl, ash, violet and cendre. Drawing inspiration from nature, the Cool Collection takes some of the year’s trendiest colours and translates them into wearable shades for a versatile range of clientele. The Koleston Perfect colour line contains up to 25 per cent conditioning agents and lipids for gentle care.

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

s e p t e m b e r .1 7

33

HAIRLINES NEWS

Firm Up

CHASING THE SUN

Get flexible definition with

Joico expands its LumiShine colour lineup with the Natural Red Gold Series.

Adding to the brand’s best-selling permanent colour crème line, Series includes five shades that provide natural base tones with luminous warm red tones with

With so many professional men’s hair products on the market, it can be difficult it all. The new Firm Hold Styling Cream by American Crew helps you create a wide range of styles with

gold reflections and complete

pliable hold and flexible

grey coverage. Created with

definition. The moisturizing

Joico’s Argiplex technology, the

formula contains panthenol,

NRG series results in hair that

copolymer and castor oil

is re-strengthened, with twice

for preventing damage,

as much shine for long-lasting,

thickening hair and improving

vibrant colour.

shine while providing long-

GOOD AS GOLD

lasting hold and body for a low-shine finish.

Congratulations to the three Canadian colourists who were named the national gold finalists for Color Zoom 2017. This photo-based hair competition required entrants to submit a hairstyle inspired by Goldwell’s In-Flux collection. The three Canadian gold finalists will be travelling to Barcelona in October to compete in the international

This six-piece care and

competition. Wishing them the best of luck on the global stage!

styling collection is created with the Flexi-Alg Complex,

Creative Colourist

a breakthrough technology

Vu Nguyen, Lure, Vancouver

with Carrageenan extract red seaweed for delivering up to 70 per cent more elasticity while sealing in moisture for healthy-

Partner Colourist Kara Gilbertson, The Attic Hair Studio, Vancouver

looking, frizz-free results that

New Talent Colourist

last up to 48 hours.

Mary Armstrong, Renaissance Salon & Estetica, St. Catharines, Ont.

34

s e p t e m b e r .1 7

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: AMERICAN CREW, JOICO, COLOR ZOOM, SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL

Unleash curls with the new Sebastian Professional Twisted Collection.

Hold Styling Cream.

to find one product to do

the Natural Red Gold (NRG)

Let Loose

the new American Crew Firm

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

A SOLUTION FOR EVERY COLOR CLIENT

Experience our extensive range of rich, luminous hair colors—from natural tones to unparalleled grey coverage, high-lift blondes to vibrant fashion shades.

Conditioning formulas, rich with silk protein and coconut oil, respect the integrity of every strand, allowing you to create your best work. High-quality products created exclusively for you, the salon professional, from a color-strong family-owned brand for nearly 100 years.

Distributed throughout Canada by Modern Beauty Supplies KEUNE.COM/NA

@KEUNENAMERICA

HAIRLINES NEWS

Better Blonde

THINK

5 Reasons to Love Matrix’s Biolage R.A.W. Styling

green

Keune adds four new products to its Ultimate Blonde lightening range.

Keune has expanded its Ultimate Blonde lightening range to help you

After the overwhelmingly successful launch of Biolage

create the ideal blonde colour for all

R.A.W. last year, Matrix is expanding the best-selling line

your clients. The brand’s new Ultimate

with the addition of five styling products. Designed to

Power Blonde Lifting Powder contains

target specific styling concerns, Matrix has unmasked

a low-ammonia formula of conditioning

many of the ingredients found in traditional styling

silk and strengthening wheat protein

products and is utilizing ingredients that are 97 to 99

to provide up to eight levels of

per cent naturally derived, with no artificial colorants,

lightening. Using a lower percentage

fragrances, parabens or silicones.

developer, the powder provides gentle lift with a faster processing time. The three new Ultimate Blonde toners help you create trendy, multi-dimensional colour, from light golden ash blonde to light pearl violet blonde to light pearl mahogany blonde.

1

The Frizz Control Styling Spray is a lightweight mist

formulated with lavender oil and provides up to 24 hours of frizz control while maintaining a natural sheen, that protects hair from damage and increases shine.

2

The Texturizing Styling Spray is made

M A S Q U E

O N

Prolong colour with the Malibu C Concentr8 Colour Masque.

With a highly concentrated colour lock complex for maximum deposit and fade protection, Malibu C’s Concentr8 Colour Masque is a dual-action colour delivery system. Customize the masque directly with a personalized Malibu C Concentr8 Colour solution for a conditioning cocktail designed to deeply penetrate hair from roots to ends for stronger hair, while preserving vibrant colour and protecting against fading.

with matcha green tea and offers up to

24 hours of weightless texture and volume for a freshly clean feeling.

3

The Bodifying Styling Jelly contains lemon, which

provides up to 24 hours of natural-looking, voluminous body, lift and shine without any stiffness.

4

me the freedom to create a premium conditioning treatment that can be customized for every guest. The colourlock technology delivers extended longevity for my colour clients, which is definitely a bonus, and guests rave about the smell of the masque, which is coconut malibu fusion.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: KEUNE, MATRIX, MALIBU C PROFESSIONAL

The Smoothing Styling Milk hydrates

“The Concentr8 Colour Masque gives

hair with its formula of oat extracts

and honey for softer and up to five times smoother hair, without a coated feel.

5

The Curl Defining Styling Butter contains cocoa

butter for up to 24 hours of frizz control without weighing hair down, while providing curly hair with soft definition and shape

— Ashley Irwin, a Canadian certified

control for a natural finish.

wellness educator and master colourist for Malibu C Professional

36

s e p t e m b e r .1 7

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CND, CREATIVE PLAY and the logo are trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc. ©2017 Creative Nail Design, Inc. Nail Design by Lauren Wireman. CND.COM

COMING

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65+ COLOURS 14+ DAY WEAR 3 SIMPLE STEPS 1 UNIQUE YOU

HAIRLINES NEWS

PLAY ON ADD A QUICK POP OF COLOUR WITH THE RUSK DEEPSHINE COLOR TOUCH UP POPFX COLORS. For clients interested in trying pops of those vibrant social media trends, RUSK Deepshine Color Touch Up PopFX Colors

bare ESSENTIALS

are temporary colour powders that are

Give undone hair the royal treatment with the new Paul Mitchell Invisiblewear.

and advanced marine therapy for optimal

easy to apply. To use, swipe brush into colour powder and apply on dry hair, then lock in with hairspray. Made with argan oil glide and colour deposit, the powders are water-resistant and rub-proof. The refillable

This 10-piece line of care and styling products has been designed to

dual compact also includes a mirror so

help you master all of your undone styles. Formulated with velvet

touch-ups are no problem, making it great

flower for softer hair, the line’s shampoo and conditioner cleanses

for creating highlights and lowlights at

and detangles hair while prepping texture and building volume.

home or on the go. They can be reapplied

The Boomerang Restyling Mist detangles and revives second-day

as often as needed and easily rinsed out

hair, and the Memory Shaper provides hair with undone definition.

with shampoo.

The Volume Whip gives hair lightweight, long-lasting volume with crunch-free hold and humidity resistance. Absorb oil, refresh hair and extend blowouts with the line’s Blonde Dry Shampoo and Brunette Dry Shampoo. The Undone Texture Hairspray gives hair natural volume with touchable hold, and the Orbit Hairspray is a fine-mist finishing spray for taming flyaways and providing a natural hold. For additional volume, the Invisiblewear Pump Me Up texture powder spray gives flat hair an instant boost. The versatile product lineup makes it easy to add to your clients’ service ticket, helping them extend and replicate their salon style at home.

TOOLBOX

“This lightweight yet powerful dryer cuts my drying time in half while leaving my clients’ hair in premium condition. I especially love that I can even tackle coarse hair within minutes. In an industry where time is money, the BaBylissPRO Rapido is a

3 snap-on concentrator nozzles for precise drying results

Removable noise-reducing filter for more than 50 per cent quieter operation

total game changer for me.”

— ANDREA SAMPSON, NATIONAL DIRECTOR OF EDUCATION AND SHOWS FOR DANNYCO PROFESSIONAL

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2 speed and 3 heat settings, including a cool shot button

Lightweight—weighs less than 1 pound (40 per cent lighter than most dryers)

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PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS, RUSK, DANNYCO PROFESSIONAL

Dannyco Professional BaBylissPRO Rapido High Performance Hairdryer

Ferrari-designed engine with built-in ion generator for up to 50 per cent faster drying

MALIBU MAKEOVER DETOX ®

EVERY CLIENT NEEDS THIS HAIR REHAB SERVICE!

STEP 1

STEP 2

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HAIRLINES NEWS

Bounce Back SEXY HAIR REVAMPS ITS CURLY SEXY HAIR COLLECTION. The six-piece product line was designed for all types of curly hair creating weightless volume and definition. The Curly Sexy Hair Curl Enhancing Shampoo and Conditioner are newly formulated with sea algae for strengthening and cacay oil containing vitamin E and omegas 3 and 6 for hydration. The Curly Sexy hair Curl

7

REASONS TO PURCHASE A CONTESSA TICKET...

RIGHT NOW!

1 EARLY BIRD GETS

THE WORM —The Contessa

ticket is a hot commodity, but we enjoy rewarding those who are eager to attend and get their tickets early. So, gather your team and purchase your Contessa tickets by October 11 to receive a special, discounted price.

Power styling foam is best for wavy hair, helping

2 CHOOSE YOUR OWN SEATS —Did you know

shape and define curls while providing humidity

you can select your own seats/tables online? We’ve

protection. The Curly Sexy Hair Curl Control is a

made it easier than ever to sit where you want with our

medium control styling gel that can be used on

online seating chart. Remember, first come, first serve

damp hair, or diffused or air-dried hair for soft,

(some restrictions apply).

bouncy curls. The Curly Sexy Hair Ultra Curl is a lightweight crème-gel ideal for coily hair,

3 DRESS TO IMPRESS —Our ultra-glam Contessa

since it provides firm control on even the most

gala kicks off with a fun cocktail party. Get decked out

unmanageable hair, and increases shine.

in your finest attire and enjoy a couple of drinks while mingling with some of the industry’s top talent.

4 WINNER, WINNER (PLUS DINNER!) — Not only does a Contessa ticket gain you entry into the biggest night of the year, where you’ll be among the first

Kadus Professional adds five new red shades to its colour portfolio.

In the last year there has been a resurgence in the industry with more and more clients requesting “red hot” shades. Expand your colour portfolio with Kadus Professional’s five new red shades, which include the brand’s technology that contains more than 500 trillion Vitaflection microspheres (1000-times

course dinner (with wine!). Indulge in a delicious meal while sharing laughs with family, friends and colleagues.

5 AVOID FOMO —If you’re worried about the fear of missing out (FOMO) you should be because if you haven’t heard by now, the Contessa Awards is the best night of the year. It’s time to get inspired by spectacular stage presentations and support the success of your peers.

6 SO MUCH SWAG —Whether you walk away from the night a winner or not, we don’t let you

smaller than a hair fibre) that evenly penetrate

leave empty-handed. Each attendee receives a swag

hair for seamless, locked-in colour and long-

bag filled with products (valued at more than $500!)

lasting results. The two permanent (8CC

generously donated by our sponsors. Who doesn’t love

and CR) shades are comprised of a lipid-

free stuff, right?

based formula that offers 100 per cent grey coverage and vibrant results. The ammoniafree, demi-permanent (CR, 6CR and 7CR)

7 PARTY ON —The night doesn’t end after the last award has been given out. We continue the celebration

shades infuse hair with shine-intensive

at Brassaii nightclub, where we all party like winners.

pigments for up to 50 per cent grey coverage.

Your Contessa ticket gets you free admission into the

The five new red shades bring the brand’s

after-party, so don’t miss out!

total colour portfolio to 54 shades.

Visit SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa for more information.

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PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: SEXY HAIR, KADUS PROFESSIONAL

RED ALERT

to find out all the winners, but you’ll also receive a three-

Relaxed, lived-in looks are easier than ever with the new Invisiblewear collection.

TM

HAIRLINES NAILS

Giddy Up! China Glaze has collaborated with Hasbro and created the My Little Pony x China Glaze collection, just in time for My Little Pony: The

IRON HOT

Movie’s October release. This limited edition collection of shades, such as pastel pink Sweet as Pinkie Pie and red-orange Applejack of My Eye, is sure to add a colourful pop to your clients’ mani-pedis, brightening up their fall wardrobes. With the childhood classic making a comeback, it’s also a great time to offer special themed nail services for mothers and daughters looking to sport matching

Create marbled nails with the Iron Ladies collection from Evo by Bio Sculpture.

Featuring four opulent shades that use the Evo Magnet, a slim iron that provides the finishing touch on a pre-cured nail—a reflective

nails this season. My Little Pony: The

line and a unique, marbled effect. Simply hold the iron over the nail

Movie opens in theatres on October 6.

for five to 10 seconds for a customized result. “It’s a very quick and easy way to create a stunning nail art-type effect without a great deal of time,” says Erica Nieuwenhuis, vice-president of Bio Sculpture Canada. “It also lends itself to the novice nail artist. The sky is the limit with respect to the designs that can be created by using one or more magnets at the same time, when pulling or holding them in different orientations.” These designs can be uniquely customized for each client, so no two sets are alike. These colours can also be layered over other Evo Colours to create even more variations, Nieuwenhuis adds, and can be used without using

ABSOLUTELY APLOMB

ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN Take nails from zero to 100 with Artistic Nail Design’s Fueled & Furious collection with shades such as smoky grey Grease Monkey.

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OPI

ORLY

MORGAN TAYLOR

ESSIE

CND

Take nails on an Icelandic adventure with OPI Iceland collection of earthinspired tones like dark blue Less is Norse.

Help clients indulge in the decadent shades in ORLY’s Velvet Dream collection, with shades like cranberry crème Black Cherry.

Morgan Taylor’s Matadora collection includes Spanishinspired shades like mauve nude Mauve Your Feet.

Give nails a ’90s throwback-inspired look with the latest trend collection from essie, including shades like metallic purple Girly Grunge.

Captivate your clients with the CND Nightspell collection, featuring a range of deep and shimmery shades like purple Lilac Eclipse.

TEXT:VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: CHINA GLAZE © 2017 HASBRO, BIO SCULPTURE CANADA, CND CANADA, ESSIE, MORGAN TAYLOR, ORLY, OPI, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN

the magnet for a shimmery effect that lasts up to three weeks.

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HAIRLINES NAILS

Sheer Perfection How to recreate this season’s must-have nail look for every client.

A

t Fashion Week for autumn/winter 2017, we saw a rainbow of colours—ranging from bold neons to subtle pastels. But one of the most popular runway nail trends seen around the world

was more minimalistic: the nude nail. We spoke with the experts about techniques and polishes needed to nail the “au naturel” look in the salon.

LESS IS MORE While nude nails aren’t new, they have soared in popularity—seen all over the runways, including at Ryan Lo’s show at London Fashion Week.

OPI Powder Perfection in Tiramisu for Two

Nude nails were embellished with gold framing around the cuticle and adored with chains for a whimsical effect. While chains aren’t likely to be popular (or practical) for your salon clientele, nude nail accents are

OPI Infinate Shine in Bubble Bath

an easy way to elevate your nail services. “You can do any bare colour nail with accents. Art on the side—a stroke of a different colour on the side of nails for a sleek, simple, romantic look,” says Liliya Leheta, an education ambassador for CND. For clients who prefer a simpler look, look to OPI’s Infinite Shine

CND RidgeFx

Lacquer in Bubble Bash, which was used at Stella McCartney’s show at Paris Fashion Week. “Going simple and natural is kind of nice since we’ve been going vibrant for so long,” says Daphne Voth Hoggans, an OPI educator from Edmonton. Voth Hoggans says for the McCartney show, it was just one coat for more of a camouflage, contouring look that’s very natural looking, topped with the Infinite Shine Gloss [top coat] for high shine.”

CND VINYLUX Project Echo Rosebud, Nude Knickers and Satin Pajamas

Depending on how opaque your client’s desired polish is, Leheta recommends using CND’s RidgeFX, which was also used at the Simone Rocha show at London Fashion Week to mimic the look of natural-looking nails. “It’s a thicker base coat that fills in any ridges on the nails,” says Leheta, who also suggests using RidgeFX as a base coat for nude polish. “I see a lot of people with damaged nails. With coat creates a very nice base for the colour.”

THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX For clients who may not want to bare it all, CND has launched Project

oil content in their nails, so gel colour doesn’t seem to be working well

Echo, an expansion of its Vinylux line that includes three shades

for them. Powder Perfection gives them the same colours as the long-

created to match some of Shellac’s most popular nude shades—Nude

wear, but also the durability and strength for longer nails,” explains Voth

Knickers, Satin Pajamas and Rosebud. “The colours match with any

Hoggans. “You have the colour options and are able to offer them in

skin tone, and what I like about them is that they are full coverage.

different types of products suited to the customer.”

That’s what a lot of people are looking for right now,” says Leheta.

OPI recently launched its Powder Perfection line of 29 nail powders,

The bottom line: There’s a nude shade for everyone. “Everybody’s nail beds have different tones,” says Voth Hoggans. “Some are more pink

including four nude shades. “It’s great for customers that love gel

and some are more olive, so if you use the same nude tone it may not

colour and want high-shine, but may have a longer nail length or higher

look as flattering.”

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TEXT:VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTOS: OPI, CND CANADA

nude polish, you can see all the imperfections of the natural nail. This

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Can you handle the heat?

Discover the revolutionary permanent shine exothermic hair colour

By Oligo Professionnel oligopro.com

HAIRLINES MEN’S

ROCK THEIR WORLD Keeping a youthful look is top priority for men in their 40s and 50s who have started to see some grey hair peeking out.

Here’s how to get it right for your guys.

H

air colour now accounts for the majority of salon services. Of course, this increase is largely due to female clients who have a dazzling array of striking colour effects to choose from, men are

responsible for growing a market segment in terms of colour. Here’s how to capitalize on this trend.

THE RIGHT SHADE “You don’t want the colour to be too dark, or it will look fake,” says Eve Champagne, a national educator for Redken. To counteract that not-soglam Elvis impersonator look, she recommends working with a 10-minute process colour, such as Camo from Redken, which is available in six shades that effectively cover grey while creating a bit of that sexy salt-andpepper look.

“You need to be cautious with darker shades of brown,” echoes Ramsey Sayah, owner of Texture Hair Salon in Ottawa. To avoid seeing red or copper tones, Sayah suggests a 10-volume developer to cover greys, and applying it with a wide-toothed comb for even more natural results. It’s also important to look at the colour in natural light. “It may look perfect at

Your go-to products

is in nature,” says Sayah.

WHITE IS RIGHT Covering hair that’s more than 50 per cent grey has its advantages. “If

CAMO FROM REDKEN

you use a permanent series, such as Koleston Perfect or hypoallergenic

Camo from Redken offers a “personalized camo effect”, according to Eve Champagne, a national educator for Redken. “Two shades of highlights are available: Natural, with a blueviolet base to neutralize orange and yellow tones, as well as Ash, with a greenish base to offset warm, reddish tones.”

Innosence, both from Wella Professionals, with a 10-volume developer it helps create a temporary shade that slowly washes out. That’s something clients who want to change their look often will appreciate,” notes Sayah.

Another factor to consider is that the paler the hair, the more colour will penetrate it, since there is no pigment to start with.

PASTEL PUNCH It’s not just women falling for paler pastel shades, says Sayah. “It’s a growing demographic because it’s become much more acceptable to do FLASH BACK FROM PAUL MITCHELL PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR Formulated without ammonia, Flash Back from Paul Mitchell Professional Hair Color covers greys in 10 minutes or less. The range offers three shades: Cool Natural, Natural and Warm Natural in three levels (dark, medium or light), for a natural-looking effect.

something different.”

“One of my clients is a creative, young professional who likes to play around with paler shades and changes them every month.It’s always stimulating to work with this type of client,” he says. To create a perfect pastel shade, Sayah recommends using Instamatic Color Touch from Wella Professionals with a pastel developer since it’s not only formulated for more delicate hues, but it will also have longevity. And no matter how grey your client’s hair, keep in mind that if you want to create a pastel shade, you’ll need to pre-lighten it.

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TEXT:YASMIN GROTHÉ; PHOTOS: HAIR: UROS MIKIC, KINKY CURLY STRAIGHT, AUSTRALIA; MAKEUP: MAJA SUSNJARA, STYLING: NINA SUSNJARA, PHOTO: ZIGA MIHELCIC, REDKEN CANADA, PAUL MITCHELL PROFESSIONAL

your station, but it might start showing some reddish tones once the client

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HAIRLINES TREND REPORT

FROM CATWALK TO SIDEWALK Get inspired by runway hair trends from autumn/winter 2017 fashion weeks around the world, and find out the must-have products for perfecting the looks.

THE TREND: ’80S FLAIR THE FIX: WELLA PROFESSIONALS EIMI SUGAR LIFT

THE TREND: DEWY DIMENSION THE FIX: MOROCCANOIL SMOOTHING LOTION

For autumn/winter 2017, Wella Professionals’

At the Marchesa show at NYFW, Moroccanoil’s

creative director Eugene Souleiman drew

global ambassador Antonio Corral Calero created a

inspiration from the 1980s for his looks

variety of chignons and knots, but with a modern

in New York and London. At the Preen

twist—incorporating the trendy wet finish into

by Thornton Bregazzi show in London,

the looks. Hair was side-swept with a deep side

Souleiman used the brand’s EIMI Sugar

part, while keeping a few strands sleek against the

Lift spray to give hair grip. The result: Soft

forehead for a modern touch, using Moroccanoil’s

texture styled asymmetrically for an undone

Smoothing Lotion for added dimension.

yet romantic finish to complement the designer’s modern, feminine collection.

Bows, flowers, headbands—when it came to hair embellishments, autumn/winter fashion weeks brought out them all. Our favourite has to be from Christian Siriano’s show at NYFW. Anthony Cole, lead

In a departure from the signature

international stylist for Sebastian Professional, used copper wiring

sleek, barbered looks seen in the

to elevate the show’s fishtail braids. Cole used the brand’s Craft Clay

brand’s Master of Men’s Grooming

(heated up in the palms before applying) on pre-braided hair for grip to

program, American Crew recreated

hold onto the style through the wire.

some of the longer, undone looks from its new Americana collection for shows at Toronto Men’s Fashion Week (TOM*).

Complementing the show’s rock ‘n’ roll feel, American Crew All-Star Educator Matula Liounis used the brand’s Heavy Hold Pomade for extra shine on looks that have been “grown out, so it’s longer, looser and more casual.”

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TEXT:VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTOS: WELLA PROFESSIONALS, MOROCCANOIL, SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL, AMERICAN CREW

THE TREND: LENGTHY LOCKS THE FIX: AMERICAN CREW HEAVY HOLD POMADE

THE TREND: BOLD ACCENTS THE FIX: SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL CRAFT CLAY

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NEW NEW

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HAIRLINES TREND REPORT THE TREND: GEODE THE FIX: JOICO’S COLOR INTENSITY Hot on the trails of unicorn hair (OK, we also call it siren or rainbow) instead of focusing on magic, the Geode hair colour trend takes its cues from the mineral world of rocks lined with crystals.Think dazzling amethyst, comforting rosequartz, or the beautiful gradient blue hues of an agate. Geode displays beautifully hidden under solid shades of blonde, chestnut or brunette hair.

An interpretation of the geode colour trend by Jessica Stotts of Workshop Salon in Vancouver.

A subtle brunette palette takes a spin on the wild side with a wave of metallic browns (for more on the new crop of brunettes, go to page 56 for our fall colour techniques for browns).

For this look, turn to ashy tones that will give The metallic brown trend has gone global— featured in Australian hairstylist Paloma Rose Garcia’s latest collection.

you that coveted metal, cool shade. Actually, ash colours are an essential part of the whole metallic trend.

Visit SalonMagazine.ca for more autumn/ winter runway hair trends and products.

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TEXT:YASMIN GROTHÉ; PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: JOICO, JESSICA STOTTS, PRAVANA, HAIR: PALOMA ROSE GARCIA, MAKEUP: ISABELLA SCHIMID, STYLING: ELAINE MARSHALL, PHOTO: ANDREW O’TOOLE

THE TREND: METALLIC BROWNS THE FIX: PRAVANA COLORLUSH

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WHY GREAT LENGTHS? ...because your clients deserve the very best.

Join the most elite group of hair extension artists in the world.

Visit our website to view the 2017 Canada-wide educational seminar schedule.

www.greatlengthscanada.com 2017 CO LLEC TI O N BY A N GELO S EMIN A R A

#poweredbygreatlengths

HAIRLINES NEWS

EDITOR’S PICKS From lightweight volume and reflective shine to damage relief and refreshed style, we’ve rounded up the musthave products of the season.

1.

2.

6.

3.

1. POOF PROOF Pump up volume without the weight with Schwarzkopf Professional’s Osis+ Session Label Powder Cloud spray, an ultra-fine mist made with lava rock for a natural matte finish. schwarzkopf-professional.ca

3. LIVED-IN LOCKS Add light, flexible hold to all your undone styles with Kevin.Murphy Bedroom.Hair spray. kevinmurphy.com.au

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5.

4. LIGHT AND BRIGHT Get weightless shine with Wella Professionals’ Oil Reflections Light Luminous Reflective Oil, made with camellia seed oil for creating pearlescent reflections in fine to normal hair. wella.com

5. TAKE CARE Boost hair’s volume while protecting against heat damage with Keune’s Absolute Volume Mousse, one of nine new products added to the brand’s relaunched care collection. keune.com

6. ON THE MEND Treat dry, brittle hair with Moroccanoil’s Mending Infusion, a lotion-serum hybrid finishing product with a nourishing blend of ingredients for healthier results. moroccanoil.com

TEXT:VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTO: PAUL C

2. SCENT-SATIONAL Infuse your styles with the fresh scent of freesia lily nuances with the Goldwell Kerasilk Beautifying Hair Perfume (available in four fragrances). ca.goldwell.com

4.

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Š2017 kadus professional all rights reserved

wash

wash

1

30

resist the fade

long-lasting Vibrant color results. eVen after 30 washes.*

Our dye molecules are 1000x smaller than a hair fiber, allowing for deep penetration in every hair strand, and long-lasting color! that’s Kadus smart technology.

Take the challenge. #KadusRedsTortureTest *Based on consecutive wash test. does not take into account environmental conditions such as heat or sunlight.

On the Dark Side With more clients embracing darker shades this season, we break down three ways for you to refresh your brunette colour.

By Veronica Boodhan

TIGER’S EYE WHAT IT IS: Trending on social media this year, Tiger’s Eye is inspired by the gemstone and includes a combination of a dark brown base colour with lighter tones like gold, caramel or bronze.

WHY CLIENTS WILL LOVE IT: For clients who may want to ease into a transition from light to dark or who aren’t ready to take the full plunge into brunette, Tiger’s Eye can be a great way to get them on board. “When you look at the gemstone and what the trend is based on, we see almost a level four or five at the root, something that looks like a level seven gold and hints of a level 10 to brighten it up. For a warm melting of colour, you can do tone-on-tone—picking up bigger sections of hair and toning them down a level of each other. Tiger’s Eye is a great option for transitioning blonde clients who want to go a bit deeper and to warm up colour this fall with warmer tones— similar to a hair painting or ombré technique for a soft melting of colour.” — Krysten-Ashley Garrod, national artist for Goldwell Canada GO-TO COLOUR LINE: GOLDWELL COLORANCE “Using 8gb, 9gb and 10gb in Goldwell’s Colorance line, and using all three tones and just picking up some bigger sections. It’s demi-permanent, so longevity-wise it’s not going to completely alter their colour and it’s something we change up in their next visit.”

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SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

DRAPING WHAT IT IS: Similar to contouring, draping uses hair colour to shape and accentuate the face using a soft blend of tones. It’s an easy technique for colourists to provide brunette clients with refreshed yet multi-dimensional colour.

WHY CLIENTS WILL LOVE IT: Draping adds texture and depth to your clients’ hair colour and is low-maintenance. “Brunettes don’t want to PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: KRYSTEN-ASHLEY GARROD, L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, WELLA PROFESSIONALS, GOLDWELL CANADA

be blonde, they just want to have some variation in their hair. Draping offers the opportunity to have some texture in the hair without looking highlighted. It’s about using a placement technique within your chosen colour palette. Starting with a deeper root, we see mixes of different tones of brown that layer on top of one another. With draping, you’re working in diagonal sections and layering the colours in a much more soft and subtle way. As the hair moves, you get some exposure of the tones.” — Crystal Brown, colour ambassador for L’Oréal Professionnel GO-TO COLOUR LINE: L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL DIA RICHESSE “For draping, I do a lot of open-air, freehand techniques. If they have some existing depth in their hair, I would likely put some lightening into their hair and illuminate it a little bit. I would follow that up with an application of deposit-only colour, like DIA Richesse. It depends on what base you’re starting on, but unless I’m covering white hair, it’s very rare, that I make a brunette with anything other than DIA Richesse.”

COLOUR GLOSS WHAT IT IS: This easy add-on colour service is great for accentuating brunette colour and prolonging its radiance.

WHY CLIENTS WILL LOVE IT: With colder temperatures on the way, hair can lose its shine. While clear glosses tend to be a go-to for many colourists, colour glosses not only help keep hair shiny and healthy looking, but also add subtle nuances of colour for extra dimension. “When I work on brunette hair, I don’t like everything to be one tonality or one colour as I think brunette hair can look monochromatic very quickly. With a lot of brunettes doing grey coverage, you really need to bring the shine and warmth back for a full-body feeling of the hair. Lots of times I just gloss with a colour like gold or copper or chestnut or cherry, just so you’re not asking the brunette to be different.

And when the light hits the hair, that top surface is much more reflective, the cuticle is protected and you’re going to get beautiful reflection of colour.”

— Dana Lyseng, top stylist and platform artist for Wella Professionals GO-TO COLOUR LINE: WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOR TOUCH RELIGHTS “It’s a lovely line that doesn’t come in levels of depth-only tonalities. So, I can top coat with whatever will make my client’s hair look more beautiful. If the hair is really lacking shine, you can top gloss it with gold and get a shinier finish. The colour will actually look better if you gloss it with a colour, as opposed to a clear option.”

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BLON DE D I V E R S I T Y

From icy platinum to golden honey, the range of blondes is expansive. We spoke with the experts to find out how you can ensure you’re helping your clients get the right hue of blonde, along with the secrets for achieving longer-lasting colour.

By Anna Lee Boschetto

Tonal Consideration As with any hair colour, when choosing the right shade of blonde for your clients, it all begins with the consultation.

“Consultation is key. Sometimes blonde may take more than one appointment so it’s important to give your clients the expectations of the cost and time involved,” says Rossa Jurenas, Schwarzkopf Professional’s North American creative colour director. Next, remember that while skin tone is important, Jurenas says looking at the colour of your client’s on a person’s tan or makeup, which is why I’ll always look at their eyes,” she explains.“When I see gold flecks, I’ll go for a warmer blonde, but with flecks of grey I choose ash platinum and pearl tones.”

Matrix colour ambassador Heidi Kenney agrees that the right blonde always begins with eye colour. She also finds that more and more clients are opting for neutral shades of blonde.

“A lot of clients initially think they want violet tones in their blonde hair, but it doesn’t always work,” she says. “But sand, wheat and clear beige all give that beach look to the hair, which is really what they want.”

Defining Role of Texture When it comes to creating the right blonde for straight hair, Kenney says the key is in the blending technique. “When you’re doing a balayage technique on hair that is straight and has little movement, you need to make sure there are no harsh brush lines,” she says. Using a combination of backcombing, weaving and balayage, Kenney says she is able to give her straight-haired clients a perfect diffusion with seamless results each time.

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HAIR: GARY HOOKER & MICHAEL YOUNG, MAKEUP: MEGUMI, STYLING: CLARE FRITH, PHOTOS: JACK EAMES

eyes should be priority. “Skin tone can change depending

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For curly hair, the secret is in taking the right sections of hair. “Look at the natural curl pattern and where you see spirals popping out,” she explains.

“I always take wide or medium sections of hair to lighten, tone to maintain the elasticity and integrity of the hair.” Kenney also advises colourists to remember the hair’s structure and curl patterns, so using a gentle, non-ammonia product that has a lower pH helps maintain the integrity of the hair. Also, keep in mind that if curly-haired clients wear their hair straight, focusing on the facial area and framing it with lightness is a good option, adding more internal lightness, she says.

No matter where you’re starting, “maintaining the integrity of the hair means you have to take fine sections,” says George Alderete, colour director for Keune. “You can begin with highlights and go lighter at the next appointment, but take your time with colour. It’s about having a rhythm of light, medium and dark, even with blondes, and using smaller sections contributes to creating this overall effect.” Alderete also says it’s important to remember that colour is like makeup, and contouring is key. “When you’re taking someone from a dark brown to blonde, the roots will be showing in a few weeks. Even though it’s a more lived-in colour at this point, it will still look good, provided it is done right.”

New Dimension of Blondes “Globally, people who are blonde or have an element of that colour in their hair have a distinct identity,” explains Jurenas. “For a long time it was difficult to create a blonde for everyone, but now the technology is allowing for that.” With bonding products including Schwarzkopf Professional’s Fibreplex, a technology now found in the BlondMe colour range, Jurenas says it’s even easier to create different variations of the hue, from cool icy to rose gold tones.

Alderete also adds creating that custom blonde is a matter of adding dimension to the hair with low lights and an intermediate colour. “Adding low lights guarantees that your clients’ colour will stay warmer rather than becoming brassy, which will help her retain her colour longer,” he says. “Everyone wants to be blonde, even someone who we wouldn't recommend but we can customize a colour that will suit anyone,” says Kenney, adding that blonde colour services are a large percentage of a salon’s colour business, if not the largest, making this service integral to a salon’s success.

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BEHIND THE SCENES

COLOURING OUTSIDE THE LINES s h o o t w i t h R edken C anada, w e headed t o M o n t r e al t o C ont essa phot ogr apher A l ai n

C o mt o is ’ s t u d i o.

Terry Ritcey, director of education for Redken Canada, guided the creative concept of androgenous street style, with international Redken artists Jorge Joao and Catherine Allard creating a series of four distinct looks. Here’s how the creative team planned and created these urban chic styles with a raw, edgy appeal.

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PERFECTION! Catherine Allard crafted the hair colour for each model, from a subtle silver/grey to vivid pinks and reds using Redken HDResolution, and worked alongside Jorge Joao as he polishes a very wide, solid fringe over shaved temples; a modern take on the classic bob.

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PHOTOS: SALON MAGAZINE STAFF

SOFT AND HARD After precision cutting the hair to an extremely short length on the sides and leaving it longer on the top, Jorge Joao added softness and movement by creating wispy waves. “It brings a feminine touch to a haircut that's a bit extreme,” he says. To make everything stay in place, he used Fashion Work 12 from Redken, a fast-drying, fine mist spray formulated for coloured hair.

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o r S a lo n M agaz i ne’s excl usi ve cover

DARK ROSE To create darker roots and give hair a cutting-edge metallic effect while still keeping an androgynous look, Catherine Allard worked with the City Beats colour palette on a level nine hair. “I wanted rose gold without it being over-the-top girly, to keep in line with the concept of the photo shoot.”

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hotheadshairextensions

Hair: Jorge Joao Hair Colour: Catherine Allard and Marie-Ève Faucher Makeup: Marie-Laure Larrieu and Joëlle Boucher Styling: Marie Sophie Tétrault Photos: Alain Comtois

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High impact metallic hues add a dose of glam to these raw, street-inspired looks.

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Hair: The Toni & Guy Australian Artistic Team Makeup: Chereine Waddell Styling: Jana Bartolo Photos: Elizabeth Kinnaird

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This Australian collection channels futuristic vibes with blunt cuts and vibrant colour.

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Hair: Darren Ambrose, D & J Ambrose Hair Salon, U.K. Makeup: Mary Jane Frost Photos: Jenny Hands

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Textured styles and rich colour add a modern edge to this British collection.

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Hair: Ella & Jade team, Australia Makeup: Courtney Shepherd Styling: Broaderlines Photos: Dan Knott

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Sharp lines are softened by airy texture and neutral colours in this Australian collection.

U n c o nventional Beauty SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

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and

SU BSTA NCE

Multi-tonal colour combined with fashion-forward styles are showcased in this chic Australian collection.

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Hair: Scott Sloan, Sloans, Australia Colour: Isobel Allan Makeup: Maddie Austin Styling: Clare Frith Photos: Jack Eames

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Hair: Hermiz Daniel, Joey Scandizzo Salon, Australia Colour: Kyra Williams Makeup: Janice Wu Styling: Elaine Marshall Photos: Karla Majnaric

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Shape Shifting This Australian collection elevates traditional cuts with unconventional styling and multi-dimensional colour.

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PEOPLE’S CHOICE Hair: Silas & Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Colour: Dorothy Tsang & Courtney Noel Makeup: Lan Nguyen-Grealis Styling: Jared Green Photos: John Rawson

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NATIO NAL HO N O U R S

Canadians win big on the national stage— taking home three awards from the North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA).

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HAIRCUTTING Hair & Styling: Anica Iordache, ModMop Hairdressing, Ottawa Makeup: Ekaterina Ulyanoff Photos: Ara Sassoonian

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MAKEUP ARTIST Florencia Taylor, Florencia Taylor Makeup, London, Ont. Hair: Julie Vriesinga Styling: Julie Vriesinga & Florencia Taylor Photo: Paula Tizzard

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CONTESSA 28 FINALIST ONTARIO HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR

Thelma Bento has been a hairstylist for more than 14 years and is the owner of Taz Hair Co. in London, Ont.

1

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL DIA RICHESSE

“It’s an ammonia-free line and I just love the shine you get in the hair. It has grapeseed oil in the colour so it really moisturizes the hair and makes it look flawless.”

THELMA BENTO Vogue Italia because “they tend to be ahead

has excelled at bringing her hair vision

of the game a little bit, so I always like to see

to life. For her Contessa 2017 Ontario

what’s trending over there, take it home and

Hairstylist of the Year finalist collection, London-

translate it into what I think is going to work.”

based Bento combined structured styles with

UP FOR THE CHALLENGE

soft texture and colour for looks that are both fashion-forward and true to her style.

According to Bento, the Contessa Awards have helped her embrace both her competitive and

WARRIOR PRINCESS

creative sides. “Competing keeps me driven and

“When I was shooting this collection, I was

motivated, and not stagnant,” she says. “I love

really inspired by braids and cornrows. I wanted

my day-to-day salon work, but [when competing]

the models to be fierce, so I chose to incorporate

I get to be creative and get to work my brain

a bit more texture and movement in the looks.

a little differently than it works every single

I wanted them to be like warriors, but have

day. There are no borders with it—I get to do

softness in the hair; hair that’s flowy with

whatever I want.”

movement, and with soft, pastel tones in the bob

With one Contessa award already under her

with the curls. I used soft highlights, balayage

belt, Bento continues to see competition as an

and hand-painting techniques,” says Bento. “I try

opportunity for growth. “It keeps me working

to change the game a little bit and think outside

towards my goals,” she says. “I own my own

the box—do things my way and not worry about

salon here in London, Ont., so I want to keep

what anyone else is doing.”

my team motivated, too, and keep them striving

Like many hairstylists, Bento uses mood

for more. For me, it’s not the competition part,

boards to plan all of her shoots—gathering

it’s [realizing] I’m in the top five in Canada.

inspirational images online, from Instagram and

That’s so amazing.”

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2

“I love using this to create nextday hair. It’s great for creating texture and grit.”

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L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL TECNI.ART SUPER DUST VOLUME AND TEXTURE POWDER “This creates and maintains texture, which makes the hair easier to work with.”

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L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL INFINIUM STRONG HAIRSPRAY “This was used to set the braids in place and smooth out any flyaways. It’s a very lightweight hairspray that provides strong hold without weighing down the hair, and adds maximum shine to the hair.”

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN; CREDITS HAIR: THELMA BENTO, TAZ HAIR CO, LONDON, MAKEUP: KATIE FOSTER; STYLING: THELMA BENTO; PHOTO: PAULA TIZZARD

A

s a past Contessa winner, Thelma Bento

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL WILD STYLERS BY TECNI.ART CRÊPAGE DE CHIGNON

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The Opposite You

COLLECTION

DIsTrIbuTED by

SALON PROFILE

A Master in her Own Right When it comes to creating colour, Rodica Hristu wears many hats. As Goldwell’s North American artistic director, international creative team member and Color Zoom ’17 master for Canada, Hristu has showcased her innovative colour techniques around the world. We chatted about her many accomplishments, what she attributes to her success and her tips for achieving flawless colour.

By Veronica Boodhan

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alon Magazine: You assisted in creating Goldwell’s In-Flux collection, which is the focus of this year’s Color Zoom competition.

Tell us about that experience.

Rodica Hristu: It’s a very special collection to me. I was responsible for supporting the winning team and designing the colour story—the concept, application methods, colours and shapes. The collection is all about power and strength. I’m part of the international judging panel, so I’ve seen all of this year’s Color Zoom entries. I [didn’t] get to judge Canada, but the Canadian images are amazing. I’m very proud because I can see inspiration from In-Flux in every single image. Being a Canadian and a global master colourist involved in creating that collection, it just gave me huge satisfaction and pride.

Above: On set of Goldwell’s In-Flux collection; Below: At her salon in Toronto, Hritsu loves experimenting with the latest colour trends.

SM: What is the best colour tip or advice you can share?

RH: Consultation is really important; making sure you choose the right combination of shades. Don’t be shy about it and don’t be scared. If a client wants red, they want red. They know what they want, so have fun doing it. Life is short. People are being more daring and showing their wild sides.

SM: Do you have a secret product weapon that is a must-have when colouring hair?

RH: I have a love affair with Elumen. It’s the most creative tool for a colourist.

It takes a colourist to a different level. It adds artistry to our craft. There’s no other colour like it.

SM: What has it been like being a woman in the male-dominated hair industry?

RH: For me, nothing is too hard. Everything can be achieved, you just have to I’m not a competitive person with other people; I’m just competitive with myself.

I think the hardest thing for me in my career is to make myself happy.

Everybody knows the industry is male dominated but I don’t let that bother me. It’s been tough, but also so rewarding, because I’m not competing with anyone but myself.

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PHOTOS GOLDWELL CANADA

work hard at it.

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SM: Do you have a mentor in the industry?

RH: I admire a lot of people in the industry. For me, there’s no territorial hair colour. No matter what, our influence is still the same way. Hairstylists, colourists—we all speak the same language.

SM: What has been the secret to your success?

RH: I’m real. I don’t say or do things to impress people, and I’m not afraid to make mistakes. My strength is that I always finish what I start and I’m not afraid to do it, and if it goes wrong—and things go wrong sometimes—I know I can fix it or I will do my best to fix it. I’m always looking for a challenge. Also, I love people and I’m not a jealous person. I’m an educator at heart. I work behind the chair and feel like my purpose is to not only create and be part of the international creative team, but to support my fellow educators and help them achieve their own goals; to get to where I am.

I’ve been all over the world and I’ve seen a lot of artists, colourists and stylists and I still believe Canada is number one.

SM: You’ve been actively involved with Kao’s breast cancer fundraising initiatives. Why has that been an important cause for you?

RH: Everything that involves cancer, I’m involved with as

much as I can. I was diagnosed two years ago with breast cancer but I didn’t let that stop me. I never missed one day of work. I did radiation for five weeks and had three surgeries and I worked through it. I want to make sure people aren’t scared of the word ‘cancer.’ I will never stop or feel sorry for myself. I encourage every woman who is diagnosed, if it’s possible, to be strong and fight it. Keep your mind straight and positive and anything is possible.

SM: You’ve accomplished so much already. What’s next for you?

RH: I’m going to take a break for a year or so. I want

to put Canada and Canadian artists on the global map. I would also like to work on a few other global projects. I’m a workaholic and I feel that, on a personal level, working on global projects is immortalizing my work; putting my work in print. My mom is so happy when she has something with my name, my face, my work—either on social media Hritsu’s creative use of colour pushed the boundaries for an edgy appeal in Goldwell’s Red collection.

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

or in a magazine. She is so proud it brings her to tears. So maybe a global project is next, along with my hope that someday I will get to do Justin Bieber’s hair. Avril Lavigne is one of my clients and I’m very proud of that. I just want to add another Canadian artist or another name there, so maybe when I’m 60 I can look back and say, ‘Wow, they were the best in the world and I did their hair.’

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SALON BUSINESS

Maximizing Colour Services Colour services are a major part of a salon’s business. Here are four easy ways to ensure you’re making the most of yours.

By Anna Lee Boschetto

F

rom small towns to urban centres, salon clients are looking for more from their colourist. It can translate to more business for your salon if you play your cards right, and are

able to step up your game quickly. “People are really interested in using colour to express their style,” says Joan Novak, owner of JoNo Hair in Whistler B.C. “Our market is interesting, more people are into pastels being added into balayage, and rainbow hair is being requested.” For some salons, making the most of this surge of individual expression may not always be easy, but Novak says from start to finish that will keep clients new and old coming

TREATMENT SERVICES

through your door.

Offering value-added services has been something Loretta Tom, a

COLOUR TESTING

Vancouver-based hairstylist at Salon Haze, is a big fan of doing.

“I’ve found that quick add-on treatments, either to prep the hair

Some clients may be interested in trying bolder hues, but hesitate

before a colour service or treat it after, have really helped add to my

because of the cost of a permanent change. “For clients who don’t

colour business,” she says.

want a permanent colour change, we’ll mix in demi-permanent

It might seem like a small thing, but adding an in-salon treatment

colour to give them an idea of what a permanent change may look

that helps maintain the integrity and health of hair before or

like,” says Novak. Once a client is comfortable with their new look,

after the colour service appointment can often get clients back to

Novak has found they’ll return in about four to six weeks wanting

your salon sooner for that additional treatment. “We often do the

to make the change, which translates to a more cost-effective

initial services as an added value to promote the treatment and it

approach for clients as well as an additional service for your salon.

definitely works,” says Novak.

PLANNING AHEAD

BRINGING IT HOME

While it’s wonderful that you’re able to give your clients what

When it comes to maintaining colour, you know your clients

they want when they’re in your chair, you need to be thinking

need a good homecare regimen, which can also help increase

about their next appointment if you want to grow you business.

your business. “Everyone getting a colour service wants to be

“I’m always planning ahead, which I think has proven really

able to get that amazing salon feeling every day,” says Tom.

successful for building and retaining clients,” says Novak.

When you’re providing an in-salon treatment, Tom says talking

“Having a vision and talking about what you are thinking about

about the products you’re using, along with the complimentary

for them next time, whether that’s three or six months ahead,

homecare ones, is a great way to plant the seed for purchasing

makes it exciting for everyone.”

products at the end of their service.

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PHOTO:THINKSTOCK

it’s all a matter of offering the best and most consistent service

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SALON INTERIORS

PLAYFUL VOCATION Turns out the secret to successful business for this salon owner is simply having a little fun.

BY YASMIN GROTHÉ

A

seasoned stylist discovers she’s an entrepreneur at heart after 30 years in the industry, and opens Ludik, a salon where business has been booming since its inception in 2015.

A NEW CHAPTER “When my mom was in hospice care, I decided being generous should be a way of life,” says Kellie-Ann Philbin, whose salon located in Beloeil, near Montreal. “People come to a salon to feel beautiful, to have fun. And this is what I wanted to create when I opened Ludik [a play on the French word ludique, which means playful].”

“Since barbering was starting to become hugely popular at that time, I wanted to tap into the men’s market. I commissioned an in-depth marketing study and underwent a personality assessment to see if I really had what it took to become an entrepreneur because, essentially, I was starting from scratch. Philbin says she approached this part of her business with a “build it and they will come” motto.

FINANCE 101 According to Philbin, it’s a misconception to think salon owners have more difficulty than other professionals in obtaining credit and loans from financial institutions. ‘If you have a solid business plan, the funds will come. It’s very important to do your homework and surround yourself with experts in their field to help you, like lawyers and notaries who can draft sound contracts.

At Ludik, Philbin says stylists are all under salary. “That way I can provide them with a guaranteed income, which is good for their own credit, and helps foster team spirit. Clients are very sensitive to this; everyone loves being pampered by staff who can take care of their every need, particularly in a high-end salon.”

CREATING THE SPACE Before teaming up with Montreal-based Lanvain Design for the salon, Philbin carefully curated mood boards to fine-tune the functionality and style of her future workspace. “I wanted something upscale, but without any bling. That’s why I went with an industrial-chic style.”

With a refined palette of nutty browns, splashes of shiny glass and metal accents, Ludik perfectly creates an after-work relaxation space for a busy clientele of professionals. Eco-sustainability is also key, and that’s why almost everything, including hair clippings, metal colour tubes and even chemicals, is recycled with the support of Green Circle Salons. “The only way to plan for our future is to take care of our environment,” says Philibin.

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PHOTOS: CONTESSA 28 FINALIST, SALON INTERIOR DESIGN OF THE YEAR, LUDIK COIFFURE, PHOTOS: MAXIME THIBODEAU

Details Inaugurated in 2015 Design Kellie-Ann Philbin and Lanvain Design Space 2,000 square feet 8 styling stations 4 barber chairs

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&Style

Art

With competitions getting more and more, well, competitive, even seasoned international hairstylists like Stéphane Scotto Di Cesare find it challenging.

Here’s how Revlon Professional’s Canadian brand ambassador took his game to the next level—and continues to work it on the international stage.

By Anna Lee Boschetto KEEPING IN FOCUS For Stéphane Scotto Di Cesare, competitions like Revlon’s Style Masters are a way for him to stay on top of his game.

“International competitions help keep my name out there as a hairstylist, and for the most part I’m really competing with myself,” he says.

When it came to this year’s competition, Scotto Di Cesare decided to work with a contrast of elements that pushed him to the edge of his craft. “My direction was inspired by haute

couture, with a mix of organic embroidery,” he says. As with any photo competition, he says the use of lighting and shadows was also essential in creating the moody atmosphere and tone he was aiming to create.

IN HIS TRAVELS As an international freelance hairstylist, Scotto Di Cesare is constantly inspired by new destinations—especially ones like Ireland, where nature is at the forefront. “When I travel, I tend to observe everything around me. I’m always contemplating and it’s something I do on a regular basis without even being conscious of it.” Along with nature, Scotto Di Cesare says he also looks for inspiration from historic architecture, often found

SECRET TO SUCCESS For Scotto Di Cesare, the process of competitions is one part research, one part of teamwork. “Researching the collection, drawings and trials—it’s all part of moving the project forward with my team,” he explains. “I could never succeed on my own; other artists always help push me further in my vision.”

Gleaning knowledge from both your research and others around you are also necessities for new competitors, Scotto Di Cesare says. “Research the winning looks from past years to really understand what judges are looking for.”

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Stéphane Scotto Di Cesare on set of his Style Masters collection.

PHOTOS: STÉPHANE SCOTTO DI CESARE

in cities such as Florence, Italy.

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Up for the Challenge Returning to this year’s American Crew All-Star Challenge, Canadian finalist Hassan Nasser continues to grow from the international experience.

By Anna Lee Boschetto LIVE, SHOOT AND LEARN “You learn from every previous year,” says Nasser. “This year was my third time entering and you need to have the whole package from the model to the cut to the photo.” That formula was key in getting him to the finals, and it’s what he knew he needed to replicate for his live shoot in Brussels, Belgium.

Working with David Racculgia for a second time has also given Nasser a perspective that’s more focused on giving more movement to the hair, allowing it to be a bit more Working under the pressure of a tight timeframe, Hassan Nasser has found competing has helped him streamline his skills.

undone and having the ability to make decisions quickly in the moment when he’s on set. “David shoots fast and tells you to jump in. The whole set up is pretty amazing,”

BENEFITS OF GOING GLOBAL Being a Canadian finalist for the All-Star Challenge is recognition and credibility that Nasser says helps increase his credibility with his clients. “People are appreciating your

Not knowing the model he will work on for this international competition means Hassan Nasser needs to be ready for anything with the right tools in his kit.

1 2 3

CUTTING EDGE “My clippers are cordless, so I can use them wherever. I also have a trimmer and two sets of shears.”

BRUSHING UP “I always have a bunch of different combs and my denman brushes as my styling tools. You really need both depending on the texture of the hair.”

work, and business is building when people see and hear what I’m doing. It generates more publicity.”

When it comes to competing internationally, Nasser believes you just have to be confident in your own work, and once you begin to compete you won’t want to stop. “I’m looking at entering the Contessa Awards this year and next year’s NAHAs. You get a bit of fire under your feet and you don’t want to stop.”

INSPIRED BY THE COMPETITION Along with the competition, Nasser takes added inspiration from seeing the work of his competitors. “You see these crazy haircuts and models and you want to try it,” he says.

PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

From the show prep backstage to the live competition,

“Before I blow-dry, I use American Crew Alternator, then I’ll use the

seeing hairstylists creating different looks, working in

Defining Paste for a more matte finish or the pomade for more shine,” he

different areas, you can’t help but want to do more yourself.

says, adding that the two can be mixed together. Nasser finishes off with the

“The competition and the whole global show really opens

brand’s Grooming Spray to hold the style in place.

your mind to different things.”

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PHOTOS: HASSAN NASSER

WHAT’S IN HIS KIT?

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SALON EVENTS

Congratulations to Canada’s gold winners, John Carreiro of Carreiro The Studio in Victoria, B.C. (Color Vision), Daniel Grieco of Salon Gaboa in Maple, Ont. (Creative Vision) and Sandra Du of Texture Hair Salon in Ottawa (Student). Carreiro and Grieco will be representing Canada at Wella’s International TrendVision Awards in October in London, England.

In addition to the live competition and awards, the evening showcased artistic presentations from Akin Konizi and the HOB Creative Team, who presented the Academy London, and the Sassoon Academy’s creative team, Mark Hayes, Traci Sakosits and Richie Rivera who showcased their new collection, EQUAL.

Industry icon and Sebastian Professional’s creative visionary Robert Lobetta presented The Encounter alongside the brand’s artistic director Shay Dempsey, Marylle Koken and Claudio Lazo.

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Wella Professionals’ North American TrendVision Awards Celebrating the most flourishing creativity in hair design, the North American TrendVision Awards (NATVA) by Wella Professionals brought together hairstylists and colourists from Canada, the U.S. and Puerto Rico. The 50 finalists competed for gold national titles in the Color Vision, Creative Vision and Student categories.

WHEN & WHERE July 23 in Los Angeles Josh Wagner, Sonya Dove, Omar Antonio and Anthony Cole showcased a segment called M.A.A.N. (Masculinity, Androgyny, Alternative, Non-Conformity).

PHOTOS COURTESY OF WELLA PROFESSIONALS

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SALON EVENTS

Matrix Destination 2017 Matrix’s global business ambassador Tabatha Coffey and international ambassador Jamie Stevens touched down in Toronto for a two-day hair training event. Coffey shared business tips and opened up about her own journey from young apprentice to international business expert and Stevens participated in a hair battle with Matrix Canada’s global artistic director Alex Chabot, showcased hair trends and taught a look-and-learn cutting and styling class.

WHEN & WHERE June 26 and 27 in Toronto

PHOTOS COURTESY OF MATRIX

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SALON EVENTS

L’Oréal Professionnel Hair Fashion Night 2017 More than 50 L’Oréal Professionnel hairstylists participated in Hair Fashion Night 2017, connecting with more than 3,000 attendees and providing complimentary 20-minute hairstyling sessions showcasing the brand’s “It Looks” for spring/summer 2017. This year’s event was bigger and better than ever and celebrated in 35 countries around the world. “Stylists get the opportunity to market themselves,” says Heather Wenman, Canadian ambassador and media artist for L’Oréal Professionnel. “They’re introducing themselves to new clients and building their brand. It’s really important for stylists to get out there and work in the community at events like this. Whether they’re a junior or senior stylist, it’s winwin—they gain so much.”

WHEN & WHERE June 15 in Toronto

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Discover why you should attend our new and exclusive anti-aging & beauty EVENTS! SIMPLER NAVIGATION gets you the latest anti-aging, beauty and plastic surgery news faster!

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Get the FACTS about cosmetic procedures with the improved PROCEDURE DIRECTORY. Locate a doctor for your next treatment in the FIND A DOCTOR section.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

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SALON SCOOP

FRESH FACE Wella Professionals has named actress Sophie Turner as its new global brand ambassador. Best known from her role as Sansa Stark on the hit TV series, Game of Thrones, Turner has more than five million Instagram followers and has been recognized for her red-carpet style, which has landed her on numerous best dressed lists. She appeared in Wella’s summer/fall campaign for the brand’s Eimi styling line, working with Wella global artists Sonya Dove and Christian Wood. Turner will also help launch the brand’s latest products, appear in additional global marketing and campaigns and continue to wear styles created with Eimi products at red carpet events. Turner says she is honoured with her new role and praises Wella Professionals for empowering women through hairstyling. Laura Simpson, chief marketing officer for Coty Professional Beauty, says Turner helps represent a generation of women who enjoy expressing themselves through hair colour.

PHOTO COURTESY OF WELLA PROFESSIONALS

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SALON BEST 9

#BestNine Colour Crushes September’s issue is all about colour and as always, we have way more hair love than we can possibly share on this page. Courtesy of the ‘Gram, here are nine of our #colourcrushes.

Melted metallics for the ultimate fall colour #hairgoals (@phildoeshair)

NAHA reflections with this stunning electric blue lob (@hairbyfranco)

#Ontrend street style in cool girl ballet pink (@seangodard)

Daydreaming of rose gold plaits (@hairbybiancarose)

#HairStenciling for an elevated and elegant finish (@janine_ker_hair)

High contrast with a pastel pop (@matt_waldron)

Handpainted pastel peekaboo rainbow roots (@michaellevinesalons)

Modern classic cut with a street style twist (@toastiestyles) PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM

The teaser to a stunning colour collection (@johnspantonhair)

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She’s got 99 problems but her brows ain’t one.

Even customers wearing the most original outfits want their looks to be individual and type-matching. When creating these looks the style of brows and lashes is as important as the hair colour. With Brow Styling by RefectoCil even the wildest, most creative looks can be perfected.

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