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Creativity with Colour SEPTEMBER 2019
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NATURAL PRODUCTS NOT LIVING UP TO YOUR EXPECTATIONS?
TRY NEW NATURE + SCIENCE A no compromise alternative to our cult favorite haircare ranges, All Soft, Extreme and Color Extend. New Redken Nature + Science is a collection of shampoos and conditioners, made with high performance, naturally derived* ingredients, that provides softness, strength and color vibrancy with a clean feel and bounce. VEGAN • SULFATE-FREE • SILICONE-FREE PARABEN-FREE • 100% NATURAL ORIGIN FRAGRANCE *We consider an ingredient to be naturally derived if it’s unchanged from its natural state or has undergone processing yet still retains greater than 50% of its molecular structure from the original source. Vegan = No animal derived ingredients or by-products
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37 F E AT U R E
Behind-the-Scenes
Get an inside look from our exclusive cover shoot with Moroccanoil.
38 F E AT U R E
Colour Reimagined
48 CONTE SSA 30 F I N A L I S T, CA N A D I A N COLOUR IST OF THE YEA R , RO S S A J U R E N A S , S T U D I O RO S S A , T I L L S O N B U RG , O N T.
Whether it’s blondes, brunettes or reds, it’s time to change things up this season! Find out how to take your colour to the next level— literally.
44 F E AT U R E
Anatomy of a Colourist
Get expert tips and advice for making the most out of your colour services.
46
“For fall, we’re still seeing tons of fun colour, honey blondes, subtler caramel balayage and dusty pinks.”
I N S P I R AT I O N
Collections
Kevin Hughes for Moroccanoil; Rossa Jurenas; Justin Pace; David Vendittelli
—KEVIN HUGHES, ARTISTIC DIRECTOR FOR MOROCCANOIL ON THE COVER: HAIR: KEVIN HUGHES FOR MOROCCANOIL, ASSISTANT: EMMANUELLE CAMPOLIETI, MAKEUP: WENDY RORONG, STYLING: MARK JOHN TRIPP, PHOTO: RENATA KAVEH PHOTOGRAPHED IN TORONTO EXCLUSIVELY FOR SALON salonmagazine.ca / September 2019 15
18
Editor’s Letter
46 KEVIN HUGHES FOR M O RO C CA N O I L
20
56
Publisher’s Note
C O N T E S S A GA L L E RY
Erin Fernandes
22
Find out what inspired this Canadian Colourist finalist’s multidimensional collection.
L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L
SalonMagazine.ca
Ready, set, click! Find out what’s new and exciting online.
58 P RO F I L E
Hollywood’s Hottest Hairstylist
25
Get to know Chris Appleton—the “it” hairstylist behind some of Hollywood’s iconic hair looks.
W H AT ’ S N E W
Hairlines
Are you caring for and finishing your colourful styles? Get the deets on the latest product launches and line extensions.
60 INTER IORS
Luxe Lines
This Quebec-based salon offers a luxurious experience as soon as you walk in.
62 BUSINESS
Pricing Your Colour Corrections
48 F I N A L I S T, CONTE SSA 30, CA N A D I A N COLOUR IST OF T H E Y E A R , DAV I D V ENDITTELLI, I N D U S T RY H A I R & ESTHETICS, S T. CAT H A R I N E S , O N T.
Colour corrections are big business! From the smallest corrections to the most transformative, these experts share their pricing tips for making sure you’re earning your worth.
63 W H AT ’ S H A P P E N I N G
Events + Scoop
66 SA LON STOR IE S
Colour for the Next Generation
Two colleagues and friends get #unfiltered in this colourful conversation.
16 salonmagazine.ca / September 2019
Editor’s Letter —
blonde|silver shampoo Cool and refresh any hair color shade, especially blonde, gray and fashion silver tones with SOMA Blonde|Silver Shampoo! Adds vibrancy and diminishes brassiness and warmth.
SOMA Hair Technology 1.866.843.2257 | www.somahaircare.com 18 salonmagazine.ca / September 2019
In the world of business, you’re only as good as your team. As I write, our team is not only putting the final edits on this issue, but your Contessa Awards entries are pouring in as the entry deadline rapidly approaches. Needless to say, every person (and every moment) counts in a major way. When it came time for the cover shoot for this issue, we were all pretty excited about the ideas Kevin Hughes and the Moroccanoil team had. For Hughes, it’s all not only about getting everyone to see the overall creative direction from their own perspective, but also about how each individual— from the makeup artist to the photographer— enhances the final images by contributing their own unique skills and expertise. And let the record show that when we received the photos, it was clear that the team had each brought their top skills, producing a beautifully unified collaboration. As for this issue, there’s a whole lot to be excited about when it comes to hair colour. With techniques rapidly changing (thank you, Instagram!) our editorial team created a feature (p.38) based some of the hottest trends your clients will be asking for, if they aren’t already. Plus, we are zoning in on Contessa Awards planning, which is always one of the most exciting parts of our jobs. It all brings us closer together as a team, and as an industry. Because, truly—it’s all about that collaborative effort!
Anna Lee Boschetto Editor-in-Chief
PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO
Collaborative Efforts
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Salon Magazine ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 28, ISSUE 7 SALONMAGAZINE.CA EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Anna Lee Boschetto annalee@salonmagazine.ca
Publisher’s Note —
ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Stephanie Gallant stephanie@salonmagazine.ca EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH) Yasmin Grothé yasmin@salonmagazine.ca MANAGING EDITOR Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca DIGITAL EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lucy Mazzucco lucy@salonmagazine.ca CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner, Paul C
GROUP PUBLISHER Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jordan Miandro jordan@salonmagazine.ca PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca
The Business of Colour
Laura Dunphy Publisher
20 salonmagazine.ca / September 2019
CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca
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PHOTOGRAPH BY ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANACARREIRO
Ask nearly anyone in the industry with experience in cutting and colouring, and I can almost guarantee they’ll affirm that colour is the most dominate in-salon service. Yes, root touch-ups and highlights continue to be perennially popular with clients, but in recent years, it’s trends like balayage and ombre that have propelled this category to #nextlevel status. It’s these new colour services—and specifically the products and techniques needed to master them—that are constantly pushing colourists and the industry forward. Take the blonde category for instance: Manufacturers are making some of the best chemical advances to-date with bonding products, and high-lift blondes have become a game changer, and the results are enabling colourists to really push the boundaries. Another case in point is the unicorn category, which, as fad-like as it initially seemed, shows no signs of waning. (In fact, it’s exposed some pretty incredible Instagram stars!) And let’s not forget the breakthroughs we’ve seen with lower-ammonia products and how the demand for more natural-looking colour has changed the colouring category. Needless to say colour has never been more diverse! The best part of all this growth? Not only is there an opportunity for incredible creative freedom, more than ever before, clients are prepared to pay for your expertise. Of course, says celebrity colourist Chris Appleton, that’s assuming that you’re clear about the price tag for these stunning hues. As the man behind some of today’s most beautiful in celebrity hair colour, he says with certainty that the skill and techniques required to create those amazing shades are very specific and mastering them is well worth your time. To aspiring colourists everywhere: You don’t have to be an expert on every new technique but do what you love and learn everything about being the best at it. Once you do those things, watch how your clientele explode in one colour category or another. The bottom line: There’s really no better time to live in colour!
OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca
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CND, SHELLAC and XPRESS5 are trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc. ©2019 Creative Nail Design, Inc. Nail artist: Tracey Lee.
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Colour your most cherished moments.
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NEW SUPERIOR BRUSH
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NEW MEMORABLE SHADES.
salonmagazine.ca ➣
Free Falling
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So You Think You Can Style?
Contessas The 31st annual Contessa Awards are just around the corner! Find out everything you need to know about the gala at SalonMagazine.ca. 22 salonmagazine.ca / September 2019
Game of Love We’re still “burning up” over Sophie Turner’s wedding look. Find out how to recreate her beautiful bridal waves at SalonMagazine.ca.
Congratulations to Dustin Schumann from London, Ont. on winning our “Beautiful Braids” contest! Find out what inspired this winning look over at SalonMagazine.ca.
PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: HAIR: DUSTIN SCHUMANN, MAKEUP: JANET ENTWISTLE, PHOTO: PAULA TIZZARD; CORBIN GURKIN; HAIR: NATHAN CHERRINGTON, MAKEUP: KYLIE O’TOOLE, STYLING: MELISSA NIXON, PHOTOS: ANDREW O’TOOLE
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Goodbye summer, hello fall! Get inspired with our collection archive at SalonMagazine.ca.
THE GOLDFX COLLECTION
POWER. LUXURY. PERFORMANCE.
experience the power of
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RISE UP THIS FALL WITH THE LATEST LAUNCHES IN CARE, COLOUR AND STYLING— PLUS A PREVIEW OF HAIR AND NAIL TRENDS.
PHOTO: HAIR: ASHLEY LINDSAY, VALENTINO'S GRANDE SALON, WHITBY, ONT.
➣ Congratulations to Goldwell’s 2019 Color Zoom national gold winners! These three talented Canadian colourists will be advancing to Global Zoom, the brand’s annual international competition taking place in September in Vienna. We wish them the best of luck on the global stage! Creative Colorist: Ashley Lindsay, Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby, Ont. New Talent: Shelby Tait, Chelsea Laine Salon and Colour Bar, New Glasgow, N.S. Partner Colorist: Marilyn Vendittelli, Industry Hair & Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont. salonmagazine.ca / September 2019 25
➣
Keeping it Real
Hairlines — NEWS
Get natural-looking, multidimensional colour with Schwarzkopf Professional’s new tbh – true beautiful honest. Let’s face it: Many clients are obsessing over the “undone” look. And while there are tons of styling products designed to help achieve this, what about colour? Schwarzkopf Professional has entered the chat with tbh – true beautiful honest, a new permanent colour line that combines your clients’ demand for authenticity with tones to help them express their individuality. Designed to respect and enhance the natural highs and lows in hair, tbh provides multidimensional results for a natural glow, and is available in 26 natural, cool and warm shades.
CONTAINS 50 PER CENT LESS AMMONIA THAN TRADITIONAL PERMANENT COLOUR.
➣ F I N D YO U R B A L A N C E
Nourish hair from the inside out with Biolage’s R.A.W. Scalp Care.
Mask On Get nourishing colour with Moroccanoil’s Color Depositing Masks. Whether you’re applying pastel or vibrant tones, the seven new Color Depositing Masks from Moroccanoil include the brand’s signature ArganID, an oil-infused technology that supplies hair with a deep-conditioning, temporary colour experience. The shades include Champagne, Platinum, Hibiscus, Aquamarine, Rose Gold, Bordeaux and Cocoa. Did You Know? The tubes are produced from 50 per cent post-consumer recycled plastic. Sustainability is a huge focus for Moroccanoil, and the brand has recently hired Bryan Zimmerman as their sustainability manager to help integrate sustainable initiatives into their products, services and operations. 26 salonmagazine.ca / September 2019
Rebalance Scalp Oil This pre-shampoo oil contains cedarwood, fennel, lemongrass and peppermint to soothe irritation while moisturizing and refreshing the scalp. Antidandruff Shampoo This exfoliating shampoo is vegan and contains 70 per cent ingredients of natural origin, such as willow bark and rosemary, which gently help purify the scalp. Rebalance Conditioner This moisturizing conditioner is also vegan and helps balance the scalp with 99 per cent ingredients of natural origin—including its fragrance!
PHOTO: SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, BIOLAGE, MOROCCANOIL
As hairstylists, we know that a healthy scalp is the key to healthy hair, but why do scalps get so little love? It’s time to change that with Biolage’s R.A.W. Scalp Care, a professional, anti-dandruff line that’s designed to balance and purify the scalp, and is suitable for all scalp types.
➣ M O R E T O L OV E
Hairlines — NEWS
Introducing the next generation of Goldwell’s beloved Elumen. After being first-to-market with its ammoniafree, direct-dye colour system, Goldwell is now expanding the Elumen family! Introducing Elumen Play, a semi-permanent line of eight intermixable shades that range from pastels to hot pink to ocean blue—all fade true to tone!—along with the new Elumen Play Eraser that helps simplify the colour removal process! For classic Elumen, there are now two new natural shades for direct-dye grey coverage, plus the addition of pastel fashion shades in blue, rosé and mint. To complement both lines, Elumen Care contains colour protection care and support products, each designed to complete the Elumen experience.
R E I N T RO D U C I N G …
Neutralize your tones with Wella Professionals’ Blondor Permanent Liquid Toners. Just because summer has drifted away doesn’t mean your clients’ colour should! Help them neutralize unwanted tones with five intermixable permanent liquid toners. Available in Lightest Pearl, Lightest Natural, Medium Beige, Pale Silver and Pale Platinum, the toners deliver true-totone results, and can be used for pastel toning, base-breaking and blending services. Plus, the Blondor Brass Kicker additive offers an extra boost to get rid of stubborn underlying pigments—perfect for those clients who want to stay blonde all year long. 28 salonmagazine.ca / September 2019
This newly relaunched ammonia-free range contains 54 Tone-on-Tone shades, along with four Playful Tones designed to match other shades in Revlonissimo’s colour portfolio. Now containing the brand’s Care Complex (with cotton extract to protect the hair fibre), the colour’s texture is creamier, and even includes a new fragrance. With Color Excel’s new 000 Clear, you can create customizable results—even for those that want to skip colour altogether. After all, for many clients, “shine is the new colour!”
PHOTO: GOLDWELL, REVLON PROFESSIONAL, WELLA PROFESSIONALS, AMERICAN CREW, JOICO
➣
Watch Your Tone
Meet the new and improved Color Excel by Revlonissimo.
➣
Double Duty
Hairlines — NEWS
Complete your men’s grooming services with American Crew’s 2-in-1 Skin Moisturizer & Beard Conditioner, and Moustache Wax. While the men’s grooming category is on fire, we know that most male clients are looking for ways to simplify their regimen. That’s why multi-use products are perfect to recommend! American Crew’s new 2-in-1 Skin Moisturizer & Beard Conditioner is a lightweight lotion that moisturizes skin while softening beard and facial hair. For men with a ’stache, the new Moustache Wax is the brand’s first product designed specifically to meet their needs by delivering strong, long-lasting hold while simultaneously nourishing facial hair.
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Care and Conserve
Protect blondes from brass and damage with Joico’s Blonde Life Violet Shampoo and Conditioner. This “ultra-violet” power couple contains a light violet hue that cools brass while also brightening blonde tones. Featuring the brand’s Smartrelease Technology, the shampoo and conditioner contain a unique liposome delivery system that continuously releases rose hip oil, arginine and keratin to strengthen, repair and protect hair from the inside out.
Get Your Contessa Tickets! In case you haven’t heard: The 31st annual Contessa Awards are coming, and you won’t want to miss them! Tickets go on sale September 9th! What’s New? Every year, the Contessa Awards are filled with surprises! We can’t reveal too much yet, but expect to be inspired by two amazing stage presentations from two of the industry’s top brands! Plus, our Contessa host, Bill Rowley, is sure to have a thing or two up his sleeve that will have you laughing out loud. What Does a Ticket Include? Access to the cocktail reception, a delicious sit-down dinner (including wine!), awards ceremony, afterparty, plus a swag bag valued at more than $500! How Do I Buy a Ticket? Tickets are only available online at SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa and go on sale on September 9th. Buy your ticket now before prices increase on October 23rd! CONTESSA AWARDS GALA NOVEMBER 10, 2019 salonmagazine.ca / September 2019 29
Hairlines — NEWS
Create intense colour this season with staino by evo fab pro. This intermixable colour line includes a range of 10 vibrant, direct dye shades and one clear for bold colour that lasts up to 50 (yes, 50!) washes, thanks to its ultra-high pigment concentration. With hues ranging from neon yellow and flame to cobalt and ultramarine, the bold shades fade true to tone, and contain a nourishing conditioner base for sealing the cuticle and creating shiny, frizz-free results. PRO TIP ADD STAINO TO A FAB PRO CONDITIONER BASE TO HELP CLIENTS MAINTAIN THEIR INTENSE COLOUR AT HOME.
Preserve and Protect Get long-lasting colour for up to 60 washes with Pravana’s Color Protect. The shampoo and conditioner contain silk amino acids, antioxidants and UV colour protectors to strengthen hair, maintain colour vibrancy and improve manageability while also reducing fading and preventing residual oxidation.
T O O L B OX
Amika The Autopilot Rotating Curler —
Ceramic barrel emits negative ions for smoother, frizzfree results
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Combines a clip, wand and marcel for a three-in-one styling tool
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Available in sizes 25mm and 35mm
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360-degree rotating dial ring with locking function
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Dual voltage (110-240V) for international use
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Bye-Bye Basic! Rethink your blondes and brunettes with The New Naturals from Paul Mitchell’s the Color XG. As salons get ready to fill their chairs for the fall season, it’s time to think outside the box and create multidimensional colour that’s anything but ordinary. Meet The New Naturals from Paul Mitchell the Color XG. With 10 new permanent shades in the brown ash, brown gold and violet gold tonal families, you can create truly customizable results with subtle reflections. Plus, the shades are intermixable with the rest of the Color XG colour portfolio, so your shade-creating options are near infinite. 30 salonmagazine.ca / September 2019
“This curler combines the ease of a wand or standard clipped curler with the professional finish and versatility of a Marcel curler. You’ll breeze through those beachy and glam waves as the Autopilot rotating curler maneuvers so effortlessly in your hands. It’s stylist friendly and client-proof—the best of both worlds.”
– NAEEMAH LAFOND, GLOBAL ARTISTIC DIRECTOR FOR AMIKA
PHOTO: EVO, AMIKA, OPI, CND, INSTAGRAM, LCN, MORGAN TAYLOR, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS, PRAVANA
Stand-Out Style
FIRED UP!
Hairlines — NAILS
VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA TO SEE THE FIRST TWO VIDEOS IN THE SERIES.
OPI Break out the bagpipes with Suzi Needs a Loch-Smith from the Scotland collection.
Polish Power
4 0 A N D FA B U L O U S !
CND celebrates its 40th anniversary with a partnership with Swarovski.
OPI challenges men to #MANiUP in its latest initiative. Artistic Nail Design Add a little mystique with Wrapped in Mystery, including A Jewel In Disguise.
Morgan Taylor Inspired by Marilyn Monroe, Forever Marilyn includes feminine shades like Classic Red Lips.
CND Glow bright with Day Candle, a vibrant orange shade from Treasured Moments.
In this age of inclusivity and empowerment, the brand has invited men to share their stories in its #MANiUp video series. Inspired by the trending story of a father who defended his son’s choice to wear nail polish, OPI has collaborated with the Creators Network to develop a series of conversational videos that bring to light the stereotypes that have prevented men of all ages and sexual orientations from expressing themselves with nail colour.
For four decades CND has been a leader in beauty, with nail product innovations, cuttingedge technology and signature collaborations. To commemorate their 40th (ruby) anniversary, the brand has announced its partnership with Swarovski. With crystals being a hot commodity in nail art, CND will be working with Swarovski for all of their 40th anniversary events, as well as releasing a special Ruby crystal mix pre-pack exclusively available to nail professionals. CND is also releasing a limited-edition version of their bestselling CND Shellac shade, Ruby Ritz, making the red-hot look accessible for all clientele.
CELEB NA IL LOOKS
1
2
3
Fashionable Nails Nails were on point on the catwalk. Here are a few of our favourites from fashion weeks around the world.
LCN Add a burst of colour with the Superlicious collection of vibrant shades such as Do You Like my Red Blossom.
1 For Hilary MacMillan’s show at Toronto Fashion Week, CND education ambassador John Nguyen combined moody and earth tones for an ’80s-inspired mani. 2 Mei Kawajiri used OPI’s Tokyo collection to create a 3D pearl nail design to mimic the jewelry in Adeam’s show at New York Fashion Week.
3 At Milan Fashion Week, Miss Pop created a confetti-and-glitter design on clear nail extensions to complement designer Jeremy Scott’s whimsical vision for the Moschino show.
salonmagazine.ca / September 2019 31
Hairlines — INFLUENCER CONNECTION
Influencer Connection THESE TWO COLOUR POWERHOUSES HAVE NOT ONLY BUILT THEIR OWN BRANDS, THEY'VE CULTIVATED IMPRESSIVE AND INFLUENTIAL FOLLOWINGS. GET TO KNOW THEM AT SALONMAGAZINE.CA.
Hot Hashtags
Discover these top and trending hair-related hashtags. And don’t forget to add these to your next post and increase your chances of getting seen on the ’gram!
#hair 188M+ posts #hairstyle 58M+ posts #haircut 37M+ posts #haircolor 27M+ posts #hairstylist 25M+ posts
Sarmad Najem Vancouver IG @hairbysarmad (Followers 434K) Claim to Fame Award-winning colourist, balayage expert and Schwarzkopf Professional artistic team member
It’s important to make your social media posts genuine and engaging. I do all my filming on my iPhone as I work in the salon. People like to see the process and they can visualize themselves being involved. Consistent posts that engage people will grow your following. Social media has changed the hair business in many ways. It’s so easy to show your work to a worldwide audience, connect with other professionals and attract clientele. It’s an exciting, creative and constantly evolving medium that’s connected me with people from all over the world. I’d encourage all young hair artists to get involved and share their passion with the world.
32 salonmagazine.ca / September 2019
Amber Joy
#salon 14M+ posts
Winnipeg IG @hairbyamberjoy (Followers: 36K) Claim to Fame Salon owner, foilayage expert and educator
#ombre 14M+ posts
What inspires you as a colourist?
Every person’s hair is a different canvas. I love the opportunity to create something customized for them. I think that’s what keeps me motivated and creative as a colourist—no two heads are the same. I’m really enjoying that ashy grey tones are moving out, and I’m loving that those warmer tones are coming back in. I’m playing a lot with blending; bronze, creamy vanilla blondes—kind of more natural tones and things that are shiny and reflective.
#hairdresser 12M+ posts #highlights 10M+ posts
PHOTO: SARMAD NAJEM; AMBER JOY
What tips do you have for hairstylists looking to grow their social media followings?
#balayage 18M+ posts
Engineered for professionals. Pulse-width modulation Air Multiplier™ technology
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Annular element construction Annular double-stack heating element allows a compact barrel without compromising heat generation.
The volume of the air drawn in is amplified by three times, producing a high-pressure, high-velocity jet of air.
Professional concentrator Wider and thinner for precision styling, with cool grip edges.
LED indicators Clearly shows selected settings and filter cleaning prompt.
Protects hair from extreme heat damage
Airflow exit Aperture design reduces air rush noise. Constructed from liquid crystal polymer to ensure thermal stability.
Intelligent heat control measures air temperature 20 times a second. Precise settings 3 speed settings and 4 heat settings, including cool shot.
Negative ions
Fast drying Dyson digital motor V9 spins at up to 110,000rpm.
Charged particles in the air reduce static in the hair.
Acoustically tuned One inaudible frequency. Quiet Mark accredited. Vibration sound reduction mount A rubber isolation mount prevents the motor from vibrating against the inside of the handle, reducing the transfer of noise between the motor and the case.
Light in the hand The 1 inch diameter motor is uniquely positioned in the handle, for balance. Filter built for salons Magnetic, removable and washable, with filter cleaning brush.
3.3 metre cable For freer movement.
Professional edition for stylists Visit dysoncanada.ca/stylist to learn more Call 1-855-395-5536 to purchase #dysonprohair
For autumn/winter 2019, hair at Fashion Week was far from “perfect,” with loose, undone and wet looks taking over the catwalk. Get the details for recreating these looks in-salon with the hero products and tools you’ll want on hand.
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Hairlines — TREND REPORT
Fresh Off the Runway
Retro Glam Wella Professionals EIMI Extra Volume Mousse
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Knotty Ballerina
Aveda Phomollient Styling Foam Creating a modern rendition of the classic ballerina bun for Brandon Maxwell’s NYFW show, hairstylist Bob Recine applied Aveda’s Phomollient Styling Foam on dry hair, brushing it through to smooth out before blow-drying. Hair was tied into a low ponytail before being split into small sections with pieces twisted up and pinned into place.
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For designer Khaite’s debut show at NYFW, Eugene Souleiman (Wella Professionals’ global creative director of care & styling, and ghd fashion ambassador) merged influences from the Victorian era and the 1970s to create easy-going hairstyles that embraced the models’ natural texture. Applying Wella’s EIMI Extra Volume Mousse at the top of the head, Souleiman combed it through the roots and styled hair off the face for a rougher, more textured look.
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Wild Waves Drawing inspiration from Jerry Hall and disco—with a hint of “gangster”— the hair for The Blonds’ show at NYFW was a splashy mix of Hollywood glam and androgyny that complemented the designer’s eccentric aesthetic. Moroccanoil’s artistic director Kevin Hughes used the brand’s Luminous Hairspray to lock in the sideswept wavy look, which was created for the show’s models and celebrity guests including Paris Hilton.
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Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Strong
Ethereal Angel Redken Velvet Gelatine 07 Cushioning Blow Dry Gel Hair accessories are huge for fall and winter! At Mani Jassal’s show at Toronto Fashion Week (TFW), international Redken artist Jorge Joao used the brand’s Velvet Gelatine 07 Cushioning Blow Dry Gel to boost hair’s body while adding a natural sheen. Hair was curled and braided into a three-strand braid before adding a crown headband, along with more hair accessories throughout the braid. PRO TIP: Joao suggests criss-crossing bobby pins to help secure accessories in place.
Redken Brews Outplay Texture Pomade
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PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM, AVEDA CANADA, COTY, JASON CARTER RINALDI, MOROCCANOIL, RENATA KAVEH, REDKEN CANADA, TK, ORIBE, DYSON CANADA
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Rock Rebel
Wet Wave Oribe Gel Serum and Dyson Supersonic Professional
For Christopher Bates’ show at TFW, Joao applied Redken Brews Outplay Texture Pomade before and after blow-drying for a loosely controlled result. PRO TIP: Joao recommends heating a small round brush before blow-drying hair.
While designer Helmut Lang’s collection for autumn/winter 2019 is all about structure, the hair by Holli Smith and team at NYFW was all about finger-waves and slicked-back styles—for women and men! Using Oribe’s Gel Serum to keep hair pulled away from the face, the finger waves were dried in place with the Dyson Supersonic Professional (and diffuser). salonmagazine.ca / September 2019 35
Hairlines — EDITOR’S PICKS
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AMP UP YOUR STYLES WITH THE CARE AND STYLING PRODUCTS YOU’LL WANT TO ADD TO YOUR KIT THIS SEASON. 1 CREATE FULLER-LOOKING HAIR with Bosley Professional Strength Bos-Volumize Style+ Blow Dry & Styling Gel, a weightless, alcohol-free gel with heat protection. 2 PUMP UP THE VOLUME with Design.Me’s Puff.Me Dry Texturizing Spray, a lightweight spray containing UV protection. 3 LOCK YOUR LOOKS in place with Alterna’s Caviar Anti-Aging High Hold Finishing Spray, a fast-drying, strong spray that contains humidity protection and matte shine. 4 ADD SOME COLOUR to your styles with KMS Style Color, a spray-on temporary colour now available in Inked Blue, Nude Peach and Velvet Berry. 5 REFRESH CURLS with Wella Professionals’ Nutricurls line, featuring Fresh Up, a 72-hour anti-frizz spray that adds definition and shine. 6 BOOST HAIR’S HYDRATION without the weight with Aveda’s Sap Moss Shampoo and Conditioner, formulated with botanical ingredients including moisture-rich larch tree sap extract and Icelandic moss.
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TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL C
Fall Forward 2
ON THE COVER From fashion runways to editorial photo shoots, Kevin Hughes, Moroccanoil’s artistic director, is always looking for inspiration for his next project. Here’s how he channels his creativity while he is on set— and how he inspires his team to do the same. BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO
Instant Gratification
“As a hairstylist, I love that you can change someone’s hair colour in an instant, and then change the colour again, regularly. The new Moroccanoil Color Depositing Masks are incredible moisturizing hair masks that let you play with colour without the commitment. I think hairstylists will have so much fun being able to give clients the option to “try on” colour, without the commitment, because you can mix and match, melt the colours into each other or create a multidimensional hue with the shade of your choice. For clients who want a lighter tone, you can even mix shades together or dilute shades of choice with a Moroccanoil conditioner.”
Positive Vibes
PHOTO : SALON STAFF
Now Trending
“For colour, we are still seeing tons of fun options. For fall in particular, we are seeing honey blondes, subtler caramel balayage and dusty pinks. For hairstyling, we’re seeing women adding fringe in every length—from curtain bangs to ’70s fringe to baby doll. I think women are keeping their layers but are getting invisible layers, which are less visible, yet still offer the movement and volume that women love. I also think “broken waves” are really hot right now, because they look more like a crimped wave rather than something beachy. They have a bit of a French Girl vibe.”
In the Moment
“With Moroccanoil launching Color Depositing Masks, I wanted to feature how beautiful the colours are, and how we could incorporate several of the shades at once. That led me to colourblocking the wardrobe, backdrop, accessories and, most importantly, the hair. I have so many inspiration photos in my files with incredible punches of colour, and I love how the incredible light the photographer captured in these photos combines with so much colour—I find myself so drawn to it.”
“When I’m on set, my team and I try to not take ourselves too seriously. We’re there doing what we all love and getting to create art together; it doesn’t feel like work at all. Before we shoot, I love creating the mood boards and coming up with ideas that become the focus of the photos—from makeup to wardrobe to lighting—and then watching it all come to life. Another great component of the experience is getting to do really fun things with hair that aren’t part of my average day-to-day regimen.”
In His Kit
“My product must-haves are the Moroccanoil Treatment, which is the foundation for styling, Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Strong, because it gives me perfect hold that I can restyle over and over again, and my new favourite is Moroccanoil Mending Infusion, which reduces the appearance of split ends while making hair look super healthy. It’s also great for any flyaways at the top of the head.” salonmagazine.ca / September 2019 37
Shattering Sh Find out how “glass hair” can help boost your brunette colour this season.
says Dana Lyseng, a Contessa awardwinning hairstylist and Wella top artist based in North Vancouver. “A lot of clients find their hair to be thirsty and dehydrated, so the glass hair trend is going to appeal to them because the hair looks and feels amazing.” Creating Dimension Though glass hair is quite a departure from the balayage and foilayage looks that have taken over social media, there are still many ways to make it multidimensional.
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Many of us remember the #iconic hair moment when Kim Kardashian first sported the pin-straight, ultra-shiny glass-hair look created by celebrity hairstylist Chris Appleton. “The idea [of glass hair] was just to make the hair really, really shiny,” said Chris Appleton at his Wow Factor show in Toronto this past June. “I kind of evolved it [with extensions]. I wanted it to look perfect—so you can’t see any lines. A lot of people thought it was a wig, but it was extensions. It was about the application, the head shape and making it look flawless. We still do that kind of look now.” And while the glass-hair look continues to be hot today, it’s taken on new life with wavy and curly hair— making this insta-famous trend more accessible for the everyday client. “Light reflects off of straight hair so easily. That’s why we can easily create a glass look with a straight finish. But to create that with curly and wavy hair, we need to mimic that through our colour, product and finishing choices,” says Stephanie Russell, a colourist and curly hair expert based in St. John’s, Nfld. Since the colder autumn temperatures can make hair look duller than usual, it’s important to create that high-impact shine, especially in darker tones— straight and curly textures—to prevent the hair from looking flat. “Going darker in the fall and winter is going to nourish the hair. Even if it’s just a level, you’re still putting nourishment back in the hair since you’re not lightening, lifting or toning,”
“With the glass hair trend, I thought ‘I did that.’ That was cool; that was a really nice moment.” — Chris Appleton
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES, COLOR WOW, REDKEN, WELLA PROFESSIONALS
BY VERONICA BOODHAN
ine
Hero Products
“EVEN IF YOU CREATE A MORE MONOCHROMATIC COLOUR, THERE’S GOING TO BE SLIGHT REFLECTIONS IN THE HAIR. COLOUR TODAY IS DESIGNED TO BE MULTIDIMENSIONAL—TO HAVE HIGHS AND LOWS. THAT’S THE MODERN MOVEMENT OF HAIR COLOUR.” –DANA LYSENG, A WELLA PROFESSIONALS TOP ARTIST BASED IN NORTH VANCOUVER
“Glass hair is a fresh trend because it’s evolved based on less dimension. Now you’re seeing a lot more women with hair that’s above shoulder-length to control the dimension,” says Lyseng. “When hair is super shiny and reflecting light, you’ll see dimension.” She recommends using a non-lifting colour, such as Wella’s Relights, as a topcoat. “I like to topcoat all of my colours because you want to protect that cuticle,” says Lyseng. “I think what scares some hairstylists about top-coating and glossing is that they think they are either going to alter the colour or slowly gather depth that will bother them, or will look deep on the ends.” To preserve the health of the hair, which is important for the shiny, glass look, Russell recommends staying within two to three levels of their colour. “It always looks best with a little more depth in the root area and transitioning to slightly lighter in the ends,” she says. For clients with shine as their number one concern, you want to stay within warmer tones as opposed to matte or flatter colours since warmer colours reflect more shine.” Russell, who is a Redken artist, recommends the brand’s Color Gels Lacquers paired with Shades EQ for extra shine.
PRO TIP USING DEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR IS A GREAT OPTION FOR CLIENTS THAT MAY WANT TO GO BACK TO HAVING LIGHTNESS IN THE HAIR. IT’S GENTLER, LESS TIMECONSUMING AND HELPS AVOID PRICEY COLOUR CORRECTIONS.
Avoiding the F Word Whether you’re working with straight or curly texture, it’s all about controlling frizz. “It can be harder for curly hair to look glassy because of the natural movement of the hair, but you still want to be doing colour work and treatments on the hair,” says Lyseng. “But I think it’s all about styling—properly nourishing the hair to dry without frizz.” Russell recommends using brushes with natural bristles and a high-heat blow dryer to create the best shine, and when working with curly texture, airdrying the hair as much as possible and using gel-based products is key. For clients hoping to extend that glassy look for an extra day, both Lyseng and Russell recommend avoiding the use of dry shampoo since they are designed to soak up excess oil and shine. ➤
PREP Color Wow Dream Coat This lightweight spray is applied to damp hair before blow-drying to shield hair from humidity. PRO TIP SECTION HAIR AND MAKE SURE THE HAIR IS SATURATED BEFORE BLOWDRYING.
STYLE (Straight Hair) Redken Frizz Dismiss Rebel Tame Leave-In Cream “For straight glass hair looks, you’ll have to use a flat iron. This is amazing for a smooth, sleek finish, and it has heat protection.” PRO TIP TO AVOID WEIGHING HAIR DOWN, USE CREAM-BASED PRODUCTS IN THICKER HAIR AND OPT FOR LIGHTER PRODUCTS IN FINER HAIR.
STYLE (Curly Hair) Redken Frizz Dismiss Instant Deflate Oil-In-Serum “It’s a beautiful serum for controlling frizz and can be applied to wet or dry hair.” PRO TIP THE CURLIER THE HAIR, THE WETTER IT NEEDS TO BE WHEN APPLYING THE PRODUCT TO BEST CONTROL FRIZZ.
FINISH Color Wow Pop & Lock High Gloss Shellac This high-gloss serum can be used to prep or finish the hair, and is perfect for transforming tighter curls into looser, glossy waves. PRO TIP USE ONE TO TWO PUMPS WHEN FINISHING THE HAIR TO CREATE AN EXTRA SHINY, FRIZZFREE RESULT.
Wella EIMI Glam Mist “It’s an aerosol so it has a hairspray feel, but it gives hair shine without making it feel heavy. It’s great for finishing the hair.” PRO TIP YOU CAN FLAT-IRON HAIR AFTER APPLYING THE SPRAY TO HELP ABSORB INTO THE HAIR. THE KEY IS TO USE A LOWER HEAT SETTING.
salonmagazine.ca / September 2019 39
Toasting the of Blondes With summer rounding into fall, blondes are going smokier, richer and–dare we say it–toasted. BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO
Popularity Contest When it comes to this smoky marshmallow side of blondes, Diana Vivilecchia (@dvcolour on Instagram), owner of Vivid Salon in Mississauga, Ont. says it’s all about the dimension. “It came to a point where everyone wanted really light, and now they want more depth because it gives you a softened look around the face, from your forehead to your lips,” she says. “Depending on how highlighted the person’s hair has been, our approach is to take more a blended approach to create that toasted blonde,” says Darek Wierzbicki, owner of 237 Salon in Belleville, Ont. Although there is still a lot of lightening happening to the hair, Vivilecchia says clients can now go longer in between visits, which can be a
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good thing for maintaining healthy hair. “I pre-book all clients, but I do push my clients to go a little longer between visits because that time frame helps reinforce the integrity of their hair,” she says. “Sometimes, they will come in sooner and I will try to guide them a little and I’ll do a few highlights so that they feel that it’s lighter, but [my goal is always to] maintain hair health.” Tonal Quality According to Wierzbicki, the secret to this look is getting the placement correct from the beginning. “We balayage for refresher light, more around the face because that is where the client sees it first,” he says. For the toasted blondes, “we pre-lighten the hair then blend around the face, so that you get that toasted or smoky blonde that is very popular right now.” For Vivilecchia, the key is working in stages. “In my consultation, I let them know they won’t see a change in that first visit and they are paying for a work in progress,” she says. When you’re creating a blend like this smoky marshmallow look, seeing the difference and the end result will take time depending on many variables in the process of achieving your client’s hair goals.
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The bright vibrancy of blonde is an undeniable classic and a hair colour many of your clients are likely coveting. Interestingly, that’s all about to change with a new, softer, subtler and some might even say “toastier” shade hitting salons this season. We spoke with colourists to find out more about this natural shift, why it’s happening and how you can translate this into even more business in your salon.
With her toasted blonde and loose waves, Guiliana Rancic is just one example of celebrity inspiration that clients may be asking for this season.
New Shade Challenge for Change “I think the biggest challenge is getting to that clean blonde, and actually getting the lift and the blend,” she says. When it comes to the blend it’s all based on your technique, which takes a lot of practice. “From the soft regrowth that is intertwined with the colour you create, to flowing the blend evenly with really soft transitions from down to the lightest, smokiest area, but still leaving enough darkness in there to give the shadowing, this takes work and practice,” says Vivilecchia. A trick she employs for achieving this toasty marshmallow look is working in very small sections to create enough depth without over-lightening the hair, while Wierzbicki’s colour placement advice is to use mid-lights. “We put mid-lights in between because they accentuate the blonde and enhance it,” he says.
PHOTOS: ERIC LEVIN AND ALICIA FIERO; HAIR: DAREN BORTHWICK FOR HAIR EXPO AUSTRALIA 2019, MAKEUP: LINDA JEFFERYES, STYLING: RACHEL WAYMAN, PHOTO: GEORGES ANTONI
SEE THE LIGHT
When it comes to creating blonde perfection, Oligo Professionnel Blacklight Balayage Clay Lightener is one of Diana Vivilecchia’s top picks.
Vivilecchia also recommends using the texture of the hair you’re working on as a guide for determining the size of your sections, and the darkness is what will add the depth. “Keep in mind you want to have enough negative space, leaving the darkness in there to allow the lightness of hair,” she says. “For thinner hair you leave more darkness and the thicker hair, less darkness.” ➤
salonmagazine.ca / September 2019 41
Vintage Red Move over fiery, saturated reds—softer tones are stronger than ever. Learn how to make these tones fresh for fall.
If you haven’t already guessed, crazy, high-intensity reds are slowly morphing into more subdued coppery tones and dusty rosés, making your need to master these colour palettes paramount. “Younger women want hair colour that’s more transparent and shows additional light, and they’re also concerned with keeping the health of their hair a priority,” says Patrick G. Nadeau, an Essential Looks trainer for Schwarzkopf Professional Canada, and a hairstylist for Paris Fashion Week. As in fashion, where trends are ever-changing, so too is the case with cuts and colour. And just when you may have thought that ash, purple-y blondes were having a moment, the focus has shifted (again) to colour that’s more lived-in and luminous. “With the introduction of Living Coral, the 2019 Pantone Color of the year, it brought us into a slightly subdued direction of colour,” says Connor Lange, a Goldwell master colourist at Bob + Paige Salon in Toronto. “Though there’s still a saturated appearance, Living Coral has influenced the reds we’re seeing for the fall season.”
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PHOTOS: COLOUR: KRISTIE KESIC FOR HAIR EXPO AUSTRALIA 2019, HAIR: ELLE SCHOEMAKER & TEGAN BOZIER, MAKEUP: GEMMA ELAINE, STYLING: JESS COLLINS, PHOTO: ANNISS AND BARTON; HAIR: THE FELLOWSHIP FOR BRITISH HAIRDRESSING COLOUR PROJECT 2019, MAKEUP: LUCY FLOWER, STYLING: STACEY JANE SHAW, PHOTO: RICHARD MILES; HAIR: MELODY & MICHAEL LOWENSTEIN, ROSS MICHAELS SALON, U.S.
BY YASMIN GROTHÉ
Love Red At Home For at-home use that will add a splash of colour on a level 8 and higher, Nadeau recommends Schwarzkopf Professional’s BlondMe Blush Wash in Strawberry to his clients. The toning wash combines BlondMe’s Bonding Technology with a great colour deposit to provide an instant shade boost. “It’s almost like a semi-permanent colour, and it can even be diluted with the Bonacure shampoo for a flash effect that will last up to 20 shampoos.”
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From darker tones to paler, more subtle ones, the new reds are sure to win over your clients.
Creating The Perfect Canvas To create these new, fabulous and dreamy red-infused colours, you first need to bring the hair to the desired level, of course. “For lived-in pastels, it really comes down to the canvas you’re putting them on,” says Lange. What was once a full bleach and tone using pastel shades root to end, is now becoming more of a highlight to maintain some depth at the base. “Work with the hair’s natural pigment when lightening it, even if that means achieving a level four that has a copper tone,” says Nadeau, who sometimes uses the Dusted Rouge range of colours from Schwarzkopf Professional to create warmer balayages. “You don’t need to lift hair as much if you want a lived-in shade of reds, but you will want to go further than orange because, if not, you’ll end up more with a peach.” These new on-trend vintage reds are cooler shades, “so you can also add a touch of violet on a base that’s warmer, to achieve the desired effect.” Lange favours a different approach: “For these projects, I often reach for Goldwell Elumen for the durability, incredible shine and repair effect it has on the hair. By borrowing some depth from deeper ash shades, using just a couple millilitres, you are able to take a pastel shade and give it a smoky tonality.” But both experts agree on the fact that “you need to make sure all warmth is eliminated from the hair prior to applying the pastels.”
Secrets to a Perfect Application Traditionally when it came to rose gold, mixing a rose and a gold shade in one formula would create an off-brown tone, so you would use fine slices back to back, alternating a rose and a gold formula to create the illusion of one single colour. But in order to make these special shades come alive with luminosity, Goldwell partnered with Fuji Film to create @Pure Pigments. “These are high-definition direct dyes that don’t intermix. Instead, they layer themselves within the hair shaft so that when the hair moves you’re actually seeing the different tones you added,” says Lange. “So, for rose gold we are able to add drops of Pure Yellow or Pure Orange and Pure Red @Pure Pigments to a soft blonde shade, and each pigment will live separately within the hair and morph, depending on how light is hitting the hair.” Nadeau adds: “I’m a big fan of nudes and beiges; colours that have that pearly, dusty finish, which is what we’re seeing now. And to get this lived-in, vintage effect, your best bet is to use a clear to dilute the stronger shades. You start by lightening the hair to come down to its natural pigment, and then you correct it by adding diluted reds and pinks.
Kick-ass faded red formulas from Pravana
By Melody & Michael Lowenstein @rossmichaelssalon — Toner: Pravana Chromasilk express tones 10% violet & 90% rose gold mixed 1 to 1 ½ with Pravana Chromasilk zerolift developer By Neal Malek (@nealmhair) — Pre-lighten with Pure Light Power Lightener + 20 Volume Crème Developer using a “teasy lights” technique —
Tone with equal parts Vivids Sunstone and Vivids Rose Quartz
salonmagazine.ca / September 2019 43
ANATOMY OF A COLOURIST There are some lessons that can’t be taught in school. We went to top colourists from across the nation to find out the characteristics master colourists share. Get ready to step up your colour game!
“Always have a clear plan before you start, and remember that the easiest way to save time is to be efficient in your application. For example, that means applying your base colour and accent highlights at the same time rather than rinsing and re-applying them in a second process.”—Lindie Blackwell, Gravity Salon, Barrie, Ont. “Use low developers with curly hair because it’s so naturally delicate and dry as it is. In between, after I rinse hair, I use an anti-porosity treatment, which has a lot of hyaluronic acid, which keeps hair moisturized. If you don’t, it becomes a battle of frizz.” —Marlo Steenman, Edmonton, Alta. “Taking care of the colour afterwards is the important part, especially for reds. Really emphasizing that it is the warranty for your hair colour; you want to make sure your clients have the necessary information and products needed to retain the work you have done.”—Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B.
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“When you do a full head of lightening, always measure, and you must mix a small batch of lightener. The lightener loses its power by the time you have done your last strand.”—Marlo Steenman, Edmonton, Alta. “Clients are paying for what they can see, so if you are doing a hidden panel, make sure it’s high and wide enough so it’s visible to them.”—Michael Levine, A Michael Levine Salon, Vancouver
BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO
Before And After
Best Advice
Make The Time
“Empathy is a key word that I think about all the time. When you’re doing a consultation, remember to stay within every client’s time frame for that day. If she says her day is very busy, do not plan a long technique. Time efficiency is so important in the colour world; clients want it to be top-notch, so focus your techniques on the area around their face.”—Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. “When you are doing something more complicated or fun, make sure there is impact when your client looks in the mirror. I call it a headphone section: Everything in front of the headphones has to be perfect. Put your energy and time there first whenever possible.” —Michael Levine, A Michael Levine Salon, Vancouver “Diagonal foiling is always going to be a time-saver since you are using more space in one application.”—Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B.
“Less is more! Choose one area or anchor point on the head to showcase a design element or texture of the cut. Blending is key when making the overall look appear more high-fashion—especially when using bright colours.”—Lindie Blackwell, Gravity Salon, Barrie, Ont. “Overthinking is the biggest mistake you can make as a colourist. We sometimes overthink a concept and complicate it unnecessarily. Trust that pit-of-yourstomach feeling, as listening to it is how you often come up with the best results.”—Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont.
Collections — UNMASKING INDIVIDUALITY
Bright hues and warm blondes collide in this collection that is all kinds of bold style.
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HAIR Kevin Hughes for Moroccanoil ASSISTANT Emmanuelle Campolieti MAKEUP Wendy Rorong STYLING Mark John Tripp PHOTOS Renata Kaveh salonmagazine.ca / September 2019 47
Collections — COLLISION
From rainbow tones to moodier hues, this Canadian collection’s colour techniques are nothing short of show-stopping.
Contessa 30 Finalist, Canadian Colourist of the Year, Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. MAKEUP Joanne Gair STYLING Nikko Kefalas PHOTOS Damien Carney
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Collections — STAINED GLASS
High-saturated tones add a rich element to this Hair Expo Australia finalist’s collection.
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HAIR Justin Pace, Dmitri Papas & Papas + Pace Artistic Team COLOUR Justin Pace, Papas + Pace, Australia MAKEUP Lan Nguyen STYLING Jamie Russell PHOTOS John Rawson salonmagazine.ca / September 2019 51
Collections — MAGICAL IRIDESCENCE
This Canadian collection pushes the envelope with subdued yet striking colour effects that convey true mastery of hair colour artistry.
Finalist, Contessa 30, Canadian Colourist of the Year, David Vendittelli, Industry Hair & Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont. HAIR Marilyn Vendittelli MAKEUP Meaghan Gregory PHOTOS Kale Friesen
52 salonmagazine.ca / September 2019
salonmagazine.ca / September 2019 53
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Contessa Gallery — ERIN FERNANDES
“On a day-to-day basis, we’re doing what our clients want. That said, I want to make myself happy, too, so to have a creative outlet is fantastic.”
➣ Being in the industry for more than 20 years, Erin Fernandes continues to push her creative boundaries. Co-owner of London-based ED Hair & Tattoo, Fernandes has entered the Contessas since 2005 and says she tends to take a more old-school approach to planning her photo shoots. “I still remember those little photo slides and tend to do a lot of magazine purchasing and Internet searches for inspiration,” she says. “I ended up taking photos and screenshots to use for my mood board.” For her 2019 Canadian Colourist collection, Fernandes worked with direct dyes opting for a muted pastel palette. The fact that muted pastels are a big hair colour trend for 2019? She says that’s purely coincidental. “I’ve worked with a lot of bright, out-there colours in the past and I wanted to push myself into a different direction,” she says. “Honestly, I think because of the age bracket that I’m in, I just do what I love and what I’m attracted to.” Fernandes decided on yellow as her anchor colour approximately six months before her shoot date, and combined reds and purples with oranges, yellows, pinks and greys. But choosing her colour combos was no easy feat. “I took collections of 56 salonmagazine.ca / September 2019
hair and coloured them all with every colour I purchased. I prefer to mix colours until I’m happy with the results,” she says. “Then I group [the hair] together and keep them together for a month, intermittently going back to it, re-evaluating how it looks and seeing if it’s still pleasing to me.” “Shooting for colour is different than anything else,” she adds. “You really want the colour to be shiny and reflective, and obviously be the first thing you see since that’s the heart of the colour collection.” One risk she decided to take was with the blackand-white geometric-patterned backgrounds, in which she credits her photographer, Natasha Gerschon, for executing. “In the past, I’ve tried choosing things that would get me in [as a finalist.] But this time, I wanted to do it for me. I wanted to let all the rules and structure go away, as far as the background, because I really loved its juxtaposition,” she says. “It draws you in, it’s unexpected, and after sending Natasha a couple of images [I was inspired by], I developed a vision and wanted to have fun and take a risk.”
GET THE LOOK Fernandes used a combination of Joico Color Intensity Metallic shades and Pravana Vivids to create her muted yet multidimensional looks.
TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTOS: HAIR & STYLING: ERIN FERNANDES, EDHAIR & TATTOO, LONDON,ONT., MAKEUP: LOREEN SAWATZKY, PHOTO: NATASHA GERSCHON; INSTAGRAM
Erin Fernandes
Part of Fernandes’ inspiration came from Montreal-based hairstylist Rodrigo Araneda’s NAHA awardwinning collection.
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Profile —CHRIS APPLETON
Hollywood’s Hottest Hairstylist From Ariana Grande to the Kardashians and beyond, Chris Appleton is the man who has created some of the most coveted celebrity styles in the last decade. Find out how the award-winning hairstylist makes the magic happen.
BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO
What is your biggest challenge when you’re working with such high-profile clients? When you create these looks or styles, they aren’t going home to their mom and dad or their husband. They are going out the world. With power of social media, you are up for hearing everyone’s opinions and criticism. But that shouldn’t scare you or prevent you from doing something different, like creating moments and looks. Sometimes the challenge is having a television or hearing someone’s take on what you do on social media. But the flipside is that social media is a powerful tool, and I enjoy seeing what other people are doing, too. For someone who is starting out, how do you push past that sense of fear? I am my own worst critic. If I wasn’t comfortable with something, I’m very hard on myself, and I will look at what I can change to make it better. Really though, all you can do is be aware.
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waves, others more gel. Some were too close to the head and looked tight. Some were too volumized. It was very stressful, I think that it always is, most of the time there’s a lot of prep work. When it comes to trust, and trying something new with your clients, what has been your secret? Knowing what a client is comfortable with, and then pushing them towards that direction to keep evolving. As a creative person, when you have a portfolio of looks that you have created, that gives you the confidence you need to gain a client’s trust. Like with any relationship, it takes time and having the confidence to do something different yet know when to not push people too far. None of my clients are at a standstill, they want a look that creates a vibe.
PHOTOS: CHRIS APPLETON
On The Kardashians They are the most supportive, kind and patient people to be around. They have changed how we see and deliver information to clients, customers and the professional hairstylist. With celebrities, hair and makeup, and how they got their look used to be a big secret. Now, through social media, they have opened up and shown, ‘this is how we do extensions,’ and ‘this is my makeup.’ It really has given people access.
Do you have a favourite look or style you have created? I really loved Kim [Kardashian’s] Met Ball look this year. That classic look can be hard to pull off because it was really gelled and slick. My goal was to create volume with it. It needed to look like it was almost dripping wet but with some volume, like she had just stepped out of the water. I felt like the hair was really what she was taking a chance on so I felt there was a bit of pressure on me. The Met Ball is big! The year before, she had a golden goddess luxurious look so we didn’t think we could top that but I think we did. Everyone really loved the look, it felt like a moment in history that will be referenced. How do you keep calm when you have to execute a difficult hairstyle, like this year’s Met Ball look for Kim? I was so nervous. There were a lot of different trials, I kept trying it on so many different ways. Some were more finger
How do you see the next turn for hair? It has been the natural evolution of hair and beauty, which is celebrated in so many different ways. And it’s an exciting time, and it is changing all the time. It used to be the bouffant in the ’60s, the ’80s is the perm, and there was always a new thing. On social media there is a new vibe every day and we are constantly pushing people to shock the world. When I was younger, it was only Madonna who was doing it—she was someone telling a story [with her hair and style] and I was always so fascinated that she got to do that. Who did you look up to as a young hairstylist? When I was training, Vidal Sassoon really inspired me. He was very precise and pushed boundaries with the bob. It was very much about pushing boundaries and that was a shock back in the day. Then, after my first cover for a hairdressing magazine, I got a note from Vidal Sassoon saying that he liked my work. Getting that note is one of the reasons that I’m really keen on education. Just a few words can really inspired people and change their careers, and their whole lives, really.
salonmagazine.ca / September 2019 59
Interiors — HAUS OF RTISTS
Haus Of Rtists, the very first fullservice Balmain Hair Couture salon in Eastern Canada, offers a stunning luxe experience.
BY YASMIN GROTHÉ
Incredibly passionate about the art of hairdressing, Maggie Semaan is also a social media powerhouse with more than 50,000 followers on Instagram. Previously co-owner of another prestige salon (Nüva Beauty & Spa), she is now flying solo having opened the very first Balmain Hair Couture salon in Quebec. “I fell in love with the brand at first sight! It is the first and only haircare line that is rooted in a Paris fashion house, and this is what makes it a luxury hair couture line!” Semaan says.
around the globe. So it makes perfect sense that her professional space would be designed with all the elements you’d expect in a lavish and luxurious salon. To dress up the location with amazing style, Semaan herself imagined the interior design of the salon, while the furnishings were all custom made. Extremely minimalist and raw with cement flooring and walls, the space is elevated to top-notch design with an ultra-chic palette of black and gold with touches of exotic woods to warm it up.
Industrial Chic Ultra-fashionable and known even in the Middle-East, (she jets there several times a year to create incredible balayages for private clients), Semaan has perfectly distilled what her high-end clients crave, whether they’re based in Canada or
Style is Everything Because this is the second salon she’s owned, Semaan understood well which aspects of the business were key when it came time to plan a striking, eye-catching look for the interior layout. That’s why she chose materials that capture
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contemporary trends in design, paired with minimalist architecture, concrete, subtle touches of bronze, and matte black and wood detailing. In fact, the whole look of the salon is perfectly in line with what architectural design publications currently showcase as trending. “I went in the direction I did because I wanted to instantly appeal to my clients, who love being surrounded by beautifully designed objects and who want to stay current on the very latest style and décor trends,” says Semaan. “This upscale clientele loves luxury, and that’s why I wanted to open the very first Balmain Hair Couture in the Montreal region.”
PHOTOS : ARA SASSOONIAN
Luxe Lines
DETAILS
TEAM
November 2018
7 stylists and colourists
DESIGN
BRANDS
Antonio Pizzano from 5th Element Design
Balmain Couleur Couture Kevin.Murphy
SPACE 1,200 square feet
INSTAGRAM @house_of_rtists
salonmagazine.ca / September 2019 61
Business —
Pricing your Colour Corrections
How Many Bowls?
In this era of balayage, colour corrections are often complex technical procedures. Here’s how to price them accordingly—and get paid your worth.
BY YASMIN GROTHÉ
Blame it on the Balayage
“Before the balayage craze, colour corrections were easier to figure out because they were pretty straightforward,” says Ramsey Sayah, owner of Texture Hair Salon in Ottawa, L’Oréal Professionnel portfolio artist and brand ambassador. “Now we’re sometimes highlighting and doing a balayage at the same time, so everything is ultracustomized for the client. It takes a lot of time, a lot of extra colour, and it’s not an easy process.” Yes, balayage is big business! “Creating this soft, natural look is often time-consuming and ends up including a colour correction “because we’re dealing with more coloured hair and don’t often know the colour history of each client,” says Marc Riese, creative director for La Biosthetique Canada. “Instagram shows clients
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what’s possible with colour, but leaves out the fact that we, as stylists, often need multiple steps to achieve those looks.” Essentially, colour corrections have been elevated, and with that shift comes the certainty you’re going to be spending more time figuring out what your client wants and achieving that coveted look with the right colour mixes and application method. “It’s an opportunity to make more money, and the price of the ticket needs to be adjusted. You’re now also using more products to protect the hair so that it’s left in even better condition after you do a colour correction,” says Sayah.
Consultation Is Key
Before deciding on technique or pricing, the consultation is the absolute cornerstone of a successful colour correction. “I personally prefer to show photos of my own work, to demonstrate what I can do with their hair, and also to help build their confidence in my ability,” says Riese. “Colour corrections always need to allow room for some adjustments, based on what the hair situation reveals, and the result achieved during the process.”
According to Sayah, the consultation needs to be very descriptive and as exact as possible, so that the client knows what to expect. Sometimes the average client can be very surprised at the pricing, so make sure you’re very detailed about it to avoid issues later on. “That’s how we protect ourselves. The client has to verbally commit to paying the quoted price. We sometimes have a disclaimer agreement—a waiver that’s been drafted by our lawyer—that we make them sign, that releases us from being sued.”
Instead of pricing colour correction services by the job or by the hour, consider how many bowls of colour you are using. “Add up all these items and explain to your client what’s involved during the consultation and give them a rough estimate,” explains Sayah. Also remember to measure hair density. If you’re using more than one bowl, price for two. “As soon as you change something in your colour, you need to price it, and that includes sinkside treatments to correct hair damage from a previous colour job.”
Budget Breakdown Riese’s approach to budget conscious clients is the following: If a client has a fixed budget but still wants a colour correction, he first offers an achievable goal within that range. He then offers a quote on what the cost will entail for further steps in the future. Some of the essential questions you need to ask: — How would you describe your hair? — How do you usually style your hair? — What don’t you like about your current hair colour? — Do you see a stylist in the salon on a regular basis?
“IT’S AN OPPORTUNITY TO MAKE MORE MONEY, AND THE PRICE OF THE TICKET NEEDS TO BE ADJUSTED.” — RAMSEY SAYAH, OWNER OF TEXTURE HAIR SALON, L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PORTFOLIO ARTIST AND BRAND AMBASSADOR
Celebrity hairstylist Chris Appleton travelled to Toronto for The Wow Factor, presented by Venus Beauty Supplies. Known for his work with celebrities such as Kim Kardashian, Jennifer Lopez, Ariana Grande and Katy Perry, Appleton showcased his signature techniques including “glass hair” and “snatched pony.”
Events —
Chris Appleton in Toronto!
PHOTOS: CHIS APPLETON
When & Where: June 2, Toronto
salonmagazine.ca / September 2019 63
Events —
Shooting to Win with American Crew’s David Raccuglia In celebration of American Crew’s 25th anniversary, the brand held a two-day event with founder, David Raccuglia. With a presentation about American Crew’s history, imagery and product innovations, Raccuglia also shared his expertise on getting the perfect men’s hair shot. As a photographer himself, he led four lucky teams in a one-onone photoshoot.
Shaking Things Up at Schwarzkopf’s National Sales Conference Celebrating the brand’s top distributors and sales consultants, Schwarzkopf Professional held a two-day event, kicking off with a cocktail reception and dinner. The next day, attendees received a sneak peek of the brand’s latest product innovations, including tbh - true beautiful honest colour, along with tips for maximizing business and social media. When & Where: May 26-27, Toronto 64 salonmagazine.ca / September 2019
PHOTOS:SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, SALON STAFF, MOROCCANOIL, REVLON PROFESSIONAL, ABA CANADA
When & Where: June 25-26, Toronto
Moving Up
Scoop —
Moroccanoil has promoted Jay Elarar to chief executive officer. In his new role, Elarar will be optimizing the brand’s global operations and lead new product innovation strategies. Working with Moroccanoil’s co-founder Carmen Tal, he will also help lead their environmental initiatives. In addition, Elarar will be expanding Moroccanoil’s education with the launch of their new academy in Manhattan next year. Tiffanie Pitimada has been promoted to director of education, North America, for Revlon Professional. In her new role, she will be responsible for leading education and show-related programs, projects and training, while continuing to build the brand’s education team. Pitimada will report to Brian Ahrens, general manager for Revlon Professional.
New Role
The Allied Beauty Association of Canada (ABA Canada) has appointed Sandra Fiore, owner of Fiore + Greco Design, as its new chairperson. Fiore has been a member of ABA Canada’s board of directors since 2015.
Are you creative, confident and experienced? Do you want to work with a team that encourages self expression? We want stylists like you. • Full employer benefits • Employer RRSP contributions
• Career growth opportunities • Stylist education
• Referral bonuses Visit us:
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salonmagazine.ca / September 2019 65
A Whole New World ERYN WALL (Owner of The Headroom Salon, St. John’s, Nfld.) Something I often notice is that the younger generation demands more from the beauty industry now because they are so knowledgeable and know what they want. It’s a totally different world. They want to see transparency and authenticity in products. They want to know they’re getting the best product for their hair, and for hair colour they often want it to be as gentle and natural as it can be. Another thing I’m seeing is that they want their hair done, but to look natural; effortless, like you didn’t do anything to the hair, but you actually have to do a decent amount of work to get to that “natural,” undone look. EMILY BAKER-MURPHY (Hairstylist at Cavana Spa and Salon, Orillia, Ont.) A lot of younger clients are coming in knowing exactly what they want because of Instagram. There are so many things that clients see online, so sometimes they are coming in and think they know how to colour hair—it’s crazy! Sometimes they will even question you, because they are seeing how things are done on Instagram.
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Filtering Through it All EW Trends are constantly changing because of social media, from colours looking more saturated or less saturated, to textures that are created with colour, to trying to recreate the colours that are created on Instagram with filters. We have to work with our clients and not make [social media] seem like a bad thing, because it’s the way of the world right now. You have to roll with it all. EBM You’re absolutely right, we have to roll with it all. And it’s true about filters; we have to educate clients on that— telling them that we’re going to try to achieve a look or style the best way we can, but informing them when photos have a filter in place and doing a more thorough consultation.
In addition to working together for more than 10 years, Eryn Wall and Emily Baker-Murphy share an east-coast connection—both of their families are from Newfoundland.
Weighing the Options EW Consultation is everything, and honesty is key. Making sure that they understand that going from black to fashion grey isn’t going to happen overnight—and maybe it won’t happen without having to cut off some hair. You really have to make sure they understand the process. When they see something on social media, they may see a ‘before’ and ‘after’, but there’s no time frame [included in the post]. Making sure they understand that it is a process and will take some time is vital. We all want instant gratification, and when that’s the case, I offer extensions! Even my under-30 clientele are finding the money—either from parents or they are spending a whole lot more of their disposable income on their beauty regimen. I feel like [cost] isn’t a question anymore. They have no problem with spending the money on these services. I’m shocked at how many young people will splurge on the bigger services. Instant gratification and willingness to spend money on themselves, to achieve what they want to feel good. Eryn Wall and Emily Baker-Murphy are top artists for Wella and also work with Great Lengths Extensions.
PHOTOS: EMILY BAKER-MURPHY
These two longtime friends, colleagues and colourists get candid about what the next generation really expect from their hair colour services.
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Salon Stories —
Colour for the Next Generation
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