Salon Magazine, September 2020 by Salon Communications Inc.

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 8799 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, Ont., M8Z 1K2

C OR R E C T I V E C OL OU R S OLU T ION S

PE R K S OF R E TA I L I NG C OL OU R PROT E C T ION GU I DE FOR BL ON DI NG S E RV ICE S

In Living Colour SEPTEMBER 2020

salonmagazine.ca

2020 NEW HAIR COLOUR

WE HAVE CHANGED EVERYTHING, BUT THE ICONIC FORMULA MA

UD PRO LY

IN C A NA

THE ICONIC CRÈME DE BEAUTÉ SINCE 1978 FOR INFINITE CREATIVITY AND IMPECCABLE COVERAGE: • • • • • •

Creamy non-dripping texture. Highly concentrated in Ionène G. Hair is 45% more conditioned after color*. Perfect coverage. Mistake-proof usage. 100% recycled plastic cap & local color made in Canada

*Instrumental testing.

LEARN MORE AT @LOREALPROEDUCATIONCANADA PURCHASE NOW ON L’ORÉAL PARTNER SHOP

MORE STRENGTH

T O T H E N AT U R A L N A I L*

NEW! OPI GEL COLOR STAY STRONG BASE COAT Infused with calcium and vitamin complex, Nails feel strengthened during gel use. AVAILABLE SEPTEMBER, 2020 Contact your local professional distributor for details.

#STAYONSTAYSTRONG

opi.com

September 2020

30 F E AT U R E

The Price of Going Blonde

No matter what shade of blonde you’re trying to achieve, lightening services can be a process— for you and your clients. We got the scoop on how to make the transition as smooth as possible.

33 F E AT U R E

Challenge Accepted

SOPH I E GI BSON A N D J O N AT H A N T U R N E R , H O O K E R & YO U N G , U . K .

“Less is always more. Hair is very forgiving and you’re going to get the best result if you don’t overthink or overdo it. A little goes a long way.”

Are you up for any colour dilemma this season? We break down the common colour correction concerns and share the expert tips to help you tackle them with ease.

37 F E AT U R E

Collections

Robert Eaton; Sophie Gibson and Jonathan Turner; Nicole Pede; Mirella Sementilli Rota; Angelo Seminara for Goldwell; Bruno Marc; Marc Antoni Artistic Team; Martin Hillier; Shaun Hall

— RODICA HRISTU, OWNER OF PROHAIR GROUP IN TORONTO AND INTERNATIONAL ARTISTIC TEAM MEMBER FOR GOLDWELL

ON THE COVER: HAIR: SHAUN HALL, MARK LEESON, U.K. MAKEUP: CLARE READ, WARDROBE STYLING: M&R, PHOTO: RICHARD MILES salonmagazine.ca / September 2020 7

Editor’s Letter

B US IN ES S

Protecting Your Colour—at All Costs

Are clients growing tired of their faded colour? Learn five easy ways to up your retail game with colour protection products.

Publisher’s Note

14 L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L

SalonMagazine.ca

Like what you see? Make sure to check out our website for expanded print stories, Contessa Awards updates and the latest industry news.

PRO FILE

The Man Behind the Magic

Find out how former makeup artist-turned-hairstylist extraordinaire Frederic Aspiras got his start and became Lady Gaga’s go-to hairstylist.

15 W H AT ’ S N E W

Hairlines

Read about the latest in product launches, styling tips and trends to set your styles apart this season.

B RU N O M A RC , M A RC A N T O N I , U.K.

62 IN TERIO RS

Clean Cut

Learn how Toronto-based salon owner Gianfranco Scavo gave his space the ultimate makeover with a contemporary yet timeless design.

M A RTIN HILLIER , THE LOUNGE H A IR S T U D I O , VA N C O U V E R

66 #S ALO N S TRO N G

Power of Perseverance

As salons continue to work through the COVID-19 pandemic pitfalls, we’re sharing your inspiring stories and words of encouragement for the salon community.

8 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

INTRODUCING THE COLOR TOUCH

BELLINI COLLECTION 4 NEW DEMI-PERMANENT SHADES OFFERING A COMBINATION OF NEW MODERN RED SHADES FOR PERFECTLY TONED HAIR AND SUBTLE ROSE SHADES WITH LUMINOUS SHINE

8/41

Light Blonde Red Ash

10/34

Lightest Blonde Golden Red

8/35

Light Golden Mahogany Blonde

9/75

Very Light Brunette Mahogany Blonde

•

Editor’s Letter —

FADE LINE FINISH DISINFECT

*oil after disinfecting

Putting together our “Colour Issue” is always a fun process. A lot of planning goes into the stories we write and images we publish, but it’s especially true in this annual edition, largely because hair colour is the foundation of what salon professionals do. Between our last issue and this one, it’s been especially important for us to highlight what colour and styling look like on a range of ethnicities. There’s no denying what’s going on in the world right now, and the overall lack of diversity in the beauty industry is a reality we hope to help change. As a leader in Canadian professional beauty, we’re aware of Salon’s vital role in paving the way. As a woman of colour myself, there are countless examples I can speak to when it comes to feeling excluded. But I have to say that I haven’t experienced that in this industry, where people of all ethnicities, ages, genders, sexual orientations, upbringings, etc., are free to express themselves in creative ways. And while I’m thankful for that reality, I believe there’s always an opportunity to do more. And that’s why we’re aiming to make significant and ongoing strides towards change. Now and in every edition of Salon, our goal is to make an obvious move toward featuring a variety of inspirational voices, images and creative work. We know there’s a vast array of talent in this industry, and that it’s incredibly important to include different perspectives. Trust that as a magazine, we’re listening and learning. I hope you are, too.

WAHLPRO.COM

Veronica Boodhan Editor-in-Chief

10 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

PHOTOGRAPH BY DOUG MCMILLAN, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANA CARREIRO

A Colourful Perspective

GO BEYOND GREAT HAIR COLOR Hair color that turns heads. Extraordinary brilliance and shine that can only be achieved through Elumenation by Goldwell. From the intense vibrancy of Elumen to the multi-layer, customizable effects of @Pure Pigments, to the premixed, easy to use Topchic @Elumenated Shades, our mastery of direct dye technology gives you infinite ways to create color that goes beyond your expectations.

Salon Magazine ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 29, ISSUE 5 SALONMAGAZINE.CA EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca

Publisher’s Note —

ART DIRECTOR (ACTING) Barbara Burrows ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR (ON LEAVE) Stephanie Gallant ASSISTANT EDITOR Sami Chazonoff sami@salonmagazine.ca SOCIAL MEDIA SPECIALIST Emily Arkell emily@salonmagazine.ca CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner, Karoun Chahinian

GROUP PUBLISHER Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jordan Miandro jordan@salonmagazine.ca PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca

Silver Lining

p.s. I’m sending huge accolades to all the amazing salon managers and receptionists who’ve done an outstanding job of organizing and booking hundreds of clients to be seen by standout beauty pros. We know it’s been quite the juggling act, but the true reward is seeing a happy client walking out the door!

Laura Dunphy Publisher

12 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca

Salon Magazine 183 Bathurst Street Suite 202, Toronto, ON, M5T 2R7 T. 416.869.3131

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Address Changes helpdesk@subscriptions.salon or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10 Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.) Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANACARREIRO

Since the beginning of summer, salons have been working overtime to accommodate a multitude of colour and cut services. It stands to reason that many have had significant challenges in dealing with major regrowth, brassy tones, and home colour disasters. The surprise factor in all of this? The COVID-19 pandemic is making colourists even better at what they do. In every situation, there’s a silver lining if you look for it. During the salon shutdown, we heard time and time again that people desperately missed their hairstylists. So much so that professional hair colour is now flying out of distributor warehouses. One theory on the why behind this phenomenon is this: Because people have been locked down for so long and, as a result, have cut back on their spending, they’ve decided that investing in a good colour and hair service is an indulgence they’re willing to pay for. From a professional’s point of view, this trend is a truly wonderful thing. Norm Wright, a Toronto-based veteran colourist and Contessa winner, puts it this way: “I’ve never been so happy to be back in the salon. I didn’t realize how much I would miss it. Our clients have been so loyal; they waited all these months for me to do their hair. We’ve always made it a point to share with our clients about the amount of education and training we all do at the salon to give them the best in service, and I guess it has paid off.” Clearly, making the investment in education and learning the best in colour techniques has never been more beneficial to business. It’s the salons that share this sentiment and actively practice it that tend to survive during difficult times.

OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca

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Please recycle where Printed on recyclable paperPRINTED IN CANADA facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail helpdesk@ subscriptions.salon. Our privacy officer is Adrian Holland. This project has been made possible [in part] by the Government of Canada.

W E N

K-PAK COLOR THERAPY ®

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GLISTEN UP, GORGEOUS!

Luster Lock Glossing Oil

Your new lust-have for gorgeous color vibrancy and swoon-worthy shine is here! • Doubles your color vibrancy*

• 2X stronger hair†

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*vs. untreated hair **After 18 washes † Against combing breakage on damaged hair vs. a non-conditioning shampoo

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JOICO.CA ©

2020 Joico® Laboratories, Imported by Piidea Canada, Mississauga, ON, L5N 6C3 HAIR Larisa Love PHOTO Hama Sanders

salonmagazine.ca ➣

Creating Art We love seeing and celebrating creativity! That’s why we do our best to highlight local and international artists who work tirelessly to push our industry forward. Check out our collections archive for some serious hair inspiration.

➣

That’s right—it’s time to show us what you’ve got in our online, photo-based hairstyling competition. This time, we want to see your best colour looks! Stay tuned for more contest details by visiting our website.

Job Board

Looking for work or in search of new talent? We’ve made it easy with our job board. Visit SalonMagazine.ca to find new jobs or to post a free listing.

SO YOU THI NK YOU CAN COLOUR? PHOTO CONTEST

14 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

It’s Back!

PHOTOS: HAIR: PAULA HIBBARD, FREELANCE, AUSTRALIA, MAKEUP: RACHAEL MONTGOMERY, WARDROBE STYLING: JOSIE MCMANUS, PHOTO: DAVID MANNAH

This year’s Contessa Awards are fast approaching! We’ve made some big changes to the competition and show this year, so find out everything you need to know (and more!) at SalonMagazine.ca.

COLOUR OUTSIDE THE LINES WITH THE LATEST CARE, COLOUR AND STYLING LAUNCHES. PLUS, TRENDS FROM AUTUMN/ WINTER FASHION WEEK.

PHOTO: COLOUR: GEORGE ALDERETE, FREELANCE, ATLANTA, GA., HAIR: JILL LEITZ, MAKEUP: ORLANDO MARIN, PHOTO: JOHN RAWSON

â&#x17E;£ Inspired by the majestic aura of the Northern Lights, the Electro collection by American colourist George Alderete features bold, saturated colours that are reminiscent of the famous natural phenomenon. Juxtaposed with strong cuts and edgy styling, the powerful collection showcases female empowerment for a no-nonsense attitude and badass vibe. To view more photos from this collection, visit SalonMagazine.ca.

salonmagazine.ca / March 2020 15

➣ Help clients embrace their natural tones with Schwarzkopf Professional’s growing tbh—true beautiful honest colour range. Since launching last year, tbh— true beautiful honest permanent colour has been making waves with hairstylists and colourists, thanks to its range of natural and muted tones. They’ve recently added four new warm shades (9-04N, 8-04N, 7-04N, 6-04N) to their Natural Beige portfolio and one new cool shade (4-06) to the Natural Chocolate collection. With the line embracing the positive message of selfacceptance and enhancing (rather than concealing) natural highs and lows in the hair, the shades provide multidimensional coverage while delivering the same natural-looking shine that the line is known for.

➣

Get commitment-free colour with Liquid Demi by Pulp Riot.

➣ BLONDE BOND

Lighten and protect hair with BlondorPlex by Wella Professionals. The brand’s beloved Blondor lightening powder just got an upgrade! The new BlondorPlex includes Bond Builder Technology to reconstruct and protect bonds during colour services while also providing up to seven levels of lift. It also includes anti-yellow molecules to prevent orange or yellow undertones. As with the original Blondor, the powder is dust-free and can be used to create multi-blonde, anti-yellow results with up to 97 per cent less breakage when followed with Wellaplex N°2 Bond Stabilizer.

16 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

No Strings Attached

Whether it’s to experiment with hair colour or use for a toning or glossing service, Pulp Riot’s new demi-permanent liquid colour line features 30 ammoniafree shades, along with an innovative no-lift, acidic formulation that doesn’t shift natural hair colour. Plus, the shades are formulated with a conditioning complex, including quinoa, vitamin E and rosemary, along with grapeseed, avocado and sunflower oils for brilliant shine and translucent reflection. As an added bonus, the new line can be used to support the brand’s Faction8 permanent colour line, which features the same numbering system for an easy, user-friendly experience.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL CANADA, L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, GOLDWELL CANADA, MATRIX CANADA, PULP RIOT, WELLA PROFESSIONALS

Hairlines — NEWS

Au Naturel

FIRST, USE BLOND STUDIO TO BALAYAGE HAIR WITH ONE OF THE BRAND’S FIVE TECHNIQUES (FREE-WEAVE, GRADUAL LIGHTENING, SHADOW BLEND, BACKCOMB SLICING AND SEAMLESS). THEN, GLOSS HAIR WITH THE DIA LIGHT (WHICH NOW INCLUDES FOUR NEW TONE-ON-TONE SHADES!) TO HELP NEUTRALIZE AND BALANCE HAIR FOR SHINY, CONDITIONED RESULTS.

➣

Prepare for Lift Off Get up to eight levels of lift while protecting hair with L’Oréal Professionnel’s Blond Studio 8 Bonder Inside. Since lightening can be the most damaging type of colour service, you should be doing everything you can to protect hair’s integrity. To simplify the process of adding a bonder to your lightener or colour, L’Oréal Professionnel is introducing Blond Studio 8 Bonder Inside. As its name implies, the lightening powder features a citric acid and glycine powered bonding complex to protect and strengthen hair. Plus, it’s both efficient and effective—providing up to eight levels of lift without the need for any extra mixing or time added to your service. In fact, you can save up to 15 minutes per service (when compared to using a separate bonding additive)!

Hairlines — NEWS

FRENCH BALAYAGE THINK BALAYAGE IS ONLY FOR BLONDES? THINK AGAIN! L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL HAS UNVEILED FRENCH BALAYAGE, A TWO-STEP BLENDED SERVICE FOR CREATING A CUSTOMIZABLE BALAYAGE LOOK ON ANYONE (INCLUDING DARK BRUNETTES!). THE RESULT IS HAIR THAT’S NEUTRALIZED AND GLOSSY WITH A HINT OF SIGNATURE FRENCH FLAIR.

Radiant Results Transform your colour services with Goldwell’s Elumenation Cool Chic. When it comes to beautiful, saturated colour, shine is everything. Help your clients achieve their ultimate hair dreams with Goldwell’s Elumenation, which helps add brilliance and shine to every tone. With cooler hues in high demand, Goldwell has unveiled new shades and services to take your styles to the next level.

TONE UP

Blend and tone with Color Sync Acidic Brunette Toners from Matrix. These new toners feature acidic technology for deposit-only, multidimensional toning without any base shifting. Available in four shades—Matte, Ash, Neutral and Mocha—they help neutralize brassy and unwanted tones while enhancing brunette colour. With options for levels two to six, they’re ideal for refreshing colour, toning balayage or creating a root shadow or smudge.

Topchic includes three new @Elumenated shades (9N@Pk, 7BP@Pk, 6NN@CV) inspired by Sakura Pink, Rich Tea and Coco De Mer.

Colorance has three new five-minute express toning services with @Elumenated shades (Lavender, Beige Mint and Rosé), which are a quick add-on following a lightening or high-lift service. The services are inspired by the brand’s Lilatech, Neo Mint and Sakura Pink.

@Pure Pigments now includes Cool Pink (inspired by Cassis) to provide customizable results with highdefinition, direct dye additives that transform oxidative hair colour for incredible vibrancy and multidimensional shine.

Finally, to help gently remove unwanted colour, Goldwell is introducing System Hair Color Remover. This new odour-free product features the CanvasReset System, which integrates the brand’s BondPro+ to protect hair, and conditioning PQ 10 to penetrate it while also removing oxidative colour. salonmagazine.ca / September 2020 17

Joico’s Color Balance and Color Infuse get a makeover.

Contessa Goes Virtual! Find out why you won’t want to miss this year’s event. You’re officially invited to the party of the year: The 2021 Contessa Awards! For the first time in the show’s history, the cocktail party and gala will be held online and streamed LIVE on Sunday, November 8, 2020. We know it’s been a tough year for many, so it’s time to let loose and have some fun! We encourage you to gather your teams, friends and family and host your own Contessa watch party in the comfort of your salon or home and connect with the hair community from across Canada and around the world. Along with the usual fanfare of inspiring collections and presentations, there will be 24 awards given out to some of Canada’s leading and emerging professionals. Plus, with hairstylist and TV personality Bill Rowley returning as our host, you never know what surprises await! Stay informed by visiting SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa.

18 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

Bring On the Colour

Get more predictable results with Crema XG by John Paul Mitchell Systems. The brand’s colour portfolio continues to grow with the addition of Crema XG, a demipermanent line with more than 40 ammoniafree shades that match perfectly with Paul Mitchell’s permanent line, Color XG. The new vegan cream colour is formulated with their DyeSmart System to ensure maximum colour penetration, and a signature blend of cottonseed oil and rice milk conditions hair for healthy, shiny results.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: JOICO CANADA, PRAVANA, GOLDWELL CANADA, SEXY HAIR, JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS

When it comes to maintaining hair colour, protection is key. That’s why recommending the right products is paramount. Joico’s Color Balance Purple and Color Balance Blue have been reformulated to keep blondes and brunettes looking their best. Thanks to its supercharged pigments, Color Balance Purple neutralizes brassy, yellow tones for cooler blondes, while Color Balance Blue eliminates brassy, orange tones in lightened brunettes. To keep your reds on point, Color Infuse Red revives colour for more radiant results. Keeping colour fresh for up to 12 washes, all three lines feature Joico’s SmartRelease liposome delivery system, which protects hair from the damaging stressors of daily styling, resulting in hair that’s twice as strong after only one treatment.

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Hairlines — NEWS

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NEW AND IMPROVED

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Care and Protect Is your client’s hair in need of some serious TLC? Pravana’s new and improved Intense Therapy includes Cleanse, Condition and Treat, a triple threat of care products that include the brand’s Reunite Mending Technology, which works to repair damaged hair and reduce breakage by up to 98 per cent. Since blonde hair can be extra fragile, protecting colour while reducing breakage is top priority. Pravana’s The Perfect Blonde Seal & Protect Leave-In and Treat neutralize unwanted yellow tones and improve damage for shinier, smoother results. Seal & Protect Leave-In is applied to damp hair after shampooing and conditioning to improve manageability and provide thermal protection for temperatures up to 450°F. Treat is a weekly treatment masque that contains coconut oil for extra moisture and shine.

➣ BIG DEA L

Get red-carpet-ready hair with Sexy Hair’s Big High Standards. While large, in-person events are rare these days, it doesn’t mean your client wants her hair to look any less glam. Transform your blowouts with Sexy Hair’s Big High Standards, a lightweight, volumizing spray infused with collagen, proteins, amino acids and peptides to help you achieve bouncy, voluminous styles. The spray also helps strengthen hair, repair damage, reduce breakage and improve hair’s elasticity.

FUN FACT THE BOTTLE IS MADE WITH 95 PER CENT POST-CONSUMER RECYCLED RESIN.

SAVE THE DATE:

Kao Salon Virtual Experience Find out how this annual event is being virtually transformed.

Hairlines — NEWS

Hydrate and strengthen hair with Pravana’s latest Intense Therapy and The Perfect Blonde products.

As more events are going the virtual route this year, Kao has announced that their annual Kao Salon Global Experience will now be the Kao Salon Virtual Experience. Scheduled to take place on October 18th and 19th, the event will be hosted online and will include an inspiring and creative showcase of hair colour and styling trends, education and more. “We wanted to try and figure out how to capture the essence of what people would see at the [live] event but have it be in a virtual space,” says John Moroney, creative director for Kao Salon Division. Kao also recently announced that British awardwinning hairstylist Angelo Seminara has joined Goldwell as their new global ambassador. In his new role, Seminara will be working with Kao’s research and development team on new product innovations as well as the Goldwell team on collections and shows, including the Kao Salon Virtual Experience, where he will be presenting a special segment to mark his official debut with the brand. For our Q&A with Angelo Seminara and John Moroney, visit SalonMagazine.ca.

salonmagazine.ca / September 2020 19

Hairlines — NEWS

Transformative Treatment Create a customizable experience with Oribe’s Renewal Remedies. With the ongoing demand for bespoke product recommendations and treatments from clients, Oribe has unveiled Renewal Remedies, the brand’s first in-salon exclusive system featuring a range of customizable hair treatments. Addressing common hair concerns, such as colour retention, smoothness and strength, the system enables hairstylists to create custom blends that provide intense hydration and improve all texture types. To use: Select the Foundation that works with your client’s hair type (Fine to Medium or Medium to Coarse). Then, choose the Amplifier based on their hair concerns (Smoothing, Strengthening or Color Retention). The products will help reinforce hair’s inner structure while repairing and shielding the outer layer to lock in moisture while smoothing the cuticle. The result: Visibly improved hair after just one treatment.

T O O L B OX

Amika Hair Blow Dryer Brush Combined round brush and blow dryer helps reduce styling time

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Oval, tourmaline-coated barrel emits negative ions that seal the hair cuticle and far-infrared heat preserves hair’s natural moisture

Lose the Lather

Help your curly-haired clients with lightened or highlighted curls get rid of brass with this new non-lathering shampoo. Created with blue lotus flower, which helps boost colour longevity and toning, it’s also formulated with Smart Porosity Toning Technology, which helps equalize porosity for more uniform results. As an added bonus, the refreshing aquatic scent will leave hair smelling fresh, and the nourishing ingredients will keep curls hydrated, shiny, bouncy and vibrant.

20 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

“This easy-to-use brush dries hair surprisingly fast and the result is shiny and long-lasting style. Both professional stylists and clients—who might not be used to blow-drying their hair—can get salon-like results. It’s super user-friendly and lightweight.”

Three adjustable heat and speed settings that can be used on all hair types and on wet or dry hair

— STÉPHANIE CHOQUETTE, LEAD PRO EDUCATOR FOR AMIKA AND OWNER OF MESH COIFFURE IN MONTREAL

Nine-foot cord with 360° swivel for easy and convenient styling

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: ORIBE, AMIKA, DEVACURL

Two types of bristles: Long nylon balltip to detangle and shorter bristles to finish hair

Transform brassy hair to cooler, more neutral tones with DevaCurl’s No-Poo Blue Anti-Brass Zero Lather Curl Cleanser.

Hairlines — NEWS

Dream Care ➣ Help clients recharge hair while they sleep with Kérastase’s Blond Absolu Serum Cicanuit. Let’s face it: It makes complete sense that some of the most effective skincare products are applied at night, since that’s when our bodies are in their most restorative state. With this in mind, Kérastase has introduced Blond Absolu Serum Cicanuit, the first overnight recovery serum powered by hyaluronic acid to deeply penetrate, plump and moisturize hair for a renewed appearance. Designed to give lightened hair the intense hydrating and reparative care it needs, the dry serum also contains Edelweiss flower to boost hair’s strength and moisture levels while minimizing damage.

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Double Duty

Take your client’s at-home care routine to the next level with Olaplex’s No. 0 Intensive Bond Building Hair Treatment. Inspired by the brand’s signature in-salon bond-building products, this at-home treatment strengthens and repairs hair while giving clients added protection against chemical, thermal, mechanical and environmental damage. The No. 0 Intensive Bond Building Hair Treatment contains the highest concentration of the brand’s patented Bis Aminopropyl Diglycol Diamaleate molecule, which is found in its other retail products. For best results, it should be used underneath the No.3 Hair Perfector for 10 minutes before rinsing.

22 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

The brand’s new All-InOne Leave-In Conditioner is a hairstylist’s dream for nourishing hair before cutting or styling, while the Volumizing Mist will help create a fuller look without a sticky finish. Both products are infused with rich argan oil, and the mist is formulated with dead sea salt and rice amino acids to fortify the hair. An added bonus: The leave-in conditioner provides up to 72 hours of softness, while the mist delivers up to 72 hours of volume and lift. A match made in healthy hair heaven!

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: KÉRASTASE CANADA, TOM NEWTON, MOROCCANOIL, OLAPLEX

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Better Bonding

Moroccanoil’s newest products will have you and your clients swooning.

RAPIDLY GENERATES

EXTREME COLD

TEMPERATURES TO 0 ยบC / 32 ยบF

HYDRATES SHINES the

ColdBrush cryotherapy for hair

DANNYCO.COM

SMOOTHES

R I PE R EDS

Hairlines — NAILS

CELEB NA IL LOOKS

CND We can’t get enough of the Autumn Addict collection, featuring the decadently delicious Cherry Apple.

Artistic Nail Design The race is on with Yield for No One, a cream red shade from Detour Allure.

Gelish In the Disney Villains collection, being bad never looked so good with Just One Bite. 8

Social Media Slay

Celebrities and influencers alike are embracing the season’s creative and colourful nail looks. Here are some of our favourites! 1 Actress Jessica Alba is ready for the outdoors as she sports the perfect nude nail topped with fern art. 2 Jennifer Lopez’s nails pop in this neon yellow look by celebrity nail artist Tom Bachik. 3 Nail artist Chaun P. gave Kylie Jenner a creative manicure that features playful shapes, colours and patterns. 4 Model Delilah Belle’s nails were glowing at fall/winter NYFW, where she modelled for The Blonds. Her long, shimmering nails by the CND design team featured shades of red, green, and lots of gold.

24 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

5 Boo’d Up singer Ella Mai is “Moo’d Up” with her nails featuring a fun yet tasteful cowhide print. 6 Model Lori Harvey sported a twist on the classic French mani with this look by Chaun P., featuring pink triangle French tips. 7 Singer Dua Lipa’s ladybug-inspired polka dot nails by Mei Kawajiri use the perfect balance of colour and shape to bring depth to this playful look. 8 Singer Lizzo shines—literally—with these star-covered metallic nails by Eri Ishizu. 9 Anastasia Karanikolaou (aka. @StassieBaby) took nail art to new heights with this colourful ombre look by Chaun P. featuring fluffy white clouds.

ORLY Life’s a trip with Red Rock, a red burgundy crème from the Desert Muse collection.

OPI The Muses of Milan collection’s Complimentary Wine is the deep luscious red you need this season.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: INSTAGRAM, CND, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, GELISH, ORLY, OPI

➣ FIND OUT HOW TO TAKE THE CLASSIC FRENCH MANI TO THE NEXT LEVEL.

The French manicure is making a comeback! As seen on fashion runways, red carpets and all over our social feeds, it’s taking a more modern approach. Now with different colour combinations, finishes and accessories, nail artists are taking this classic look and adding their own creative touches. “We’ve been forecasting a big uplift in French manicures with a twist,” says Samantha Silvius, an educator for OPI, who’s based in Leamington, Ont. “One of the ways we anticipate seeing the style is with colour incorporated into the French, along with combining trends.”

TEXT: KAROUN CHAHINIAN, PHOTO: INSTAGRAM

Mastering the Technique Through pops of colour, different textures and designs, the modern French is projected to continue throughout the year, says Tamara Di Lullo, owner of the Montreal-based nail salon, Candy Nail Bar. Not sure how to start? “YouTube and Instagram are so

“MANY EXPERIENCED TECHS WILL OPT FOR A VARIATION OF A FRENCH AS A BASE FOR OUR WORK BECAUSE OUR CLIENTS ESPECIALLY THOSE WHO LOVE AND INVEST IN NAIL ART WANT TO ROCK THOSE NAILS AS LONG AS POSSIBLE.” – TAMARA DI LULLO, OWNER OF CANDY NAIL BAR, MONTREAL

Hairlines — NAILS INSPO

The Modern French Manicure readily available to learn great French techniques and are oh-so-satisfying to watch, but to learn how to do a proper liquid-and-powder or pink-and-white sculpted French, it takes practice,” she says, adding that as a CND education ambassador, she’s always keeping on top of her own education. Once you have your technique down and have figured out what works best for you (for some it’s free-handing, while others may choose to use a stencil for precision), you can transform just about any nail look into a French. “It’s just a matter of moving your design up towards the free edge and leaving more negative space on the lower two thirds of the nail,” says Di Lullo. “Many experienced techs like myself will opt for a variation of a French as a base for our work because our clients—especially those who love and invest in nail art—want to rock those nails as long as possible.” PRO TIP A combination of precision and creativity, the modern French can require more time and additional addons (such as foils, rhinestones, etc.), which is good for business and allows nail techs to use the trend as an upsell.

Get Creative Once you’ve honed the basics, it’s time to shake things up! Silvius often draws inspiration from her Instagram feed, but always makes it her mission to keep her work as original as possible. Case in point: She combines different textures in her looks, such as glitter, gems or even pearls on the tips for an extra pop of glam. She also recommends combining different finishes. “Having a matte black nail with a shiny French tip is really edgy,” she says. “It looks really sleek and is such a cool way to amplify the whole look, if your client’s taste allows it.” Di Lullo enjoys graffiti art and hand painting, so with this nail trend, she enjoys creating more asymmetrical or two-toned looks, adding more hand-painted elements on top to push herself out of the box. The bottom line: The modern French trend gives the artist the freedom to take the basic structure of a French manicure and interpret it in a different way. Some techs opt for a thin line, while others may play up the thickness, or flip it entirely and place the line right by the cuticle. salonmagazine.ca / September 2020 25

Hairlines — MEN

➣ LEARN HOW 10-MINUTE (OR LESS) COLOUR SERVICES CAN BE YOUR SECRET WEAPON FOR MALE CLIENTELE.

For men easing into the world of hair colour, quick five- to 10-minute options are the perfect foray into insalon services. With more and more options available, it’s easier than ever for hairstylists to begin offering these quick fixes to clients. We spoke with the experts about why male clients often have unique wants and needs when it comes to colour. “A lot of male clients are still wary about spending any more time or money on their hair because of their own personal insecurities or social stigmas,” says Anthony Zaccaria, an Ontario-based hairstylist and technical advisor for Kenra Professional. “But if it’s going to make them feel good about themselves, why wouldn’t they do it?” The Pitch When it comes to consulting with male clients, it’s sometimes best not to approach the idea head-on, but to give them the opportunity to bring up their concerns or needs. “Usually while I’m cutting their hair, I’ll hear them talking about their white hair and that’s when I’ll recommend a product and ask if they 26 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

would like to try it,” says MJ Deziel, a Montreal-based hairstylist, and artist and educator for Redken. “I try to be as efficient as possible, and focus on the point that it’s a low-commitment [colour].” Zaccaria encourages his clients to take a leap into colour by giving them a preview of the service—taking three to five minutes to blend out the greys with a demi-permanent colour. “It gives them a taste of what they could look like,” he says, adding that almost all clients will want to follow through with the full service. “Then you’ve got them.” What about the clients convinced they are capable of achieving the same results at home? “Whenever my current or prospective clients use [box colour], they’re doing me a favour because they wind up back in my chair,” he says. “I get to do 10-minute colour solely to fix the colour that they messed up.” For many male clients, it’s important to emphasize that this type of colour is a quick add-on service that won’t keep them in the chair for hours, since many are accustomed to express cuts services. This type of quick colour is a great way

to have them branch out a little, but still stay within their comfort zone. The Maintenance When it comes to the longevity of these types of products, Deziel says most of them will usually last up to a month and fade very naturally after every wash. She always recommends that her clients invest in the proper protective shampoos and conditioners to maintain the colour and tone for as long as possible. Deziel also encourages her clients to come back to the salon for touchups, which clients can pre-book or she can recommend when they return for their next haircut. She says that approximately 90 per cent of her clients happily return for the service. It’s not uncommon for some to like the result so much that they inquire about permanent colour options. These kinds of quick colour products can often be the gateways to other long-term products and services. Either way, it brings business into your salon, retains a new client and can even boost your retail sales. Wins all around!

TEXT: KAROUN CHAHINIAN, PHOTO: GETTY STOCK

Quick Colour

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Hairlines — TREND REPORT

Runway Report: Autumn/Winter 2020 Check out this season’s hairstyling trends and standout looks from New York, London, Paris and Milan fashion weeks.

High-Gloss Waves Moroccanoil Glimmer Shine Moroccanoil’s artistic director Kevin Hughes opted for classic finger waves for The Blonds’ show at NYFW. With an #allglameverything collection that featured crystals, feathers, prints and more, Hughes upped the shine factor with the help of Moroccanoil’s Glimmer Shine spray, which set the styles for a sleek and shiny finish.

28 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

➣

Redken Triple Pure 32 Hairspray It was all about ’70s bohemian vibes at Chloe’s show at Paris Fashion Week. Redken’s global creative director, Guido Palau, created soft, feminine looks, including loose curls and soft knots. He layered Redken’s Triple Pure 32 Hairspray at the roots and around the hairline to keep the hair off the face, and kept the ends undone to create a more natural look.

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE): CAROLINE FISS, MOROCCANOIL, INSTAGRAM, REDKEN CANADA, WELLA PROFESSIONALS, L’OREAL PROFÉSSIONNEL, AMIKA, ISAIAH COLON

➣

Romantic Curls

A Colourful Surprise

➣

Braided Bands

Fashion Weeks were filled with colour—and we’re not talking about the clothes!

Wella EIMI Extra Volume

At Christian Siriano’s show at NYFW, celebrity hairstylist Justine Marjan added bold streaks to her Harley Quinn-inspired ponytails.

Editorial hairstylist Sam McKnight created neon roots for Dries van Noten’s show at Paris Fashion Week that are reminiscent of Billie Eilish’s infamous limegreen roots.

At Milan Fashion Week, lead hairstylist Jawara added eye-catching stencils to the models’ sleek and straight hair at the Emilio Pucci show.

For Erdem at London Fashion Week, Anthony Turner silverized some of the models for a masculine-meetsfeminine look, featuring a sleek, low side part and s-wave.

VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA FOR MORE HOW-TOS FROM AUTUMN/WINTER 2020 FASHION WEEK!

Dynamic duo Josh Wood and Guido Palau had us “seeing red” at Alexander McQueen’s show at Paris Fashion Week, where models sported updos with vibrant red streaks that were layered and crisscrossed throughout the head.

➣

At Dion Lee’s show at NYFW, Eugene Souleiman, global creative director of care and styling for Wella Professionals, took a more minimalistic approach with centreparted looks that featured two braids at the front hairline. Creating a headband effect, the delicate braids added a soft, feminine touch to the models’ natural, loose waves.

Sleek Parts L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil (Original)

➣

Structured Shapes Amika Vandal Volume Powder Spray At the Christopher John Rogers show at NYFW, models sported a range of over-the-top coifs that were impeccably finished. Amika’s global artistic director, Naeemah Lafond, created dramatic volume using wigs and hair pieces with the brand’s Vandal powder spray at the roots for a lightweight result.

At London Fashion Week, hairstylist Anthony Turner juxtaposed the voluminous fashion in JW Anderson’s show with sleek, side-parted styles. The looks were placed flat and close to the head, with Turner using L’Oréal Professionnel’s awardwinning Mythic Oil to add a luxurious finish.

salonmagazine.ca / Septmber 2020 29

THE PRICE OF GOING BLONDE BY KAROUN CHAHINIAN They say that blondes have more fun. What they don’t mention is that the lightening process can be pretty painful at times—even for the most experienced colourists! It can take hours and even multiple sessions—scheduled over weeks, and sometimes months—to achieve that perfect lift. To help make the process as easy as possible, we spoke with four industry experts and compiled their best tips and tricks for achieving the right tones.

Platinum

Cool-toned platinum blonde hair is always in high-demand, but be warned: If done incorrectly, the lightening

30 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

process can result in breakage, uneven levelling, or yellow undertones. Here are a few tips to get the most neutral and even results. 1. Have a Plan As you likely know, clients who are levels one to six will require a more thorough consultation to make sure they have reasonable expectations regarding application and processing time, along with the cost and their end result. “Having everything in writing helps hairstylists avoid being in situations where clients are unhappy with the process and their final look,” says Dana Lyseng, owner of Supernova Salon in North Vancouver and a Top Stylist for Wella Professionals. She adds that in some cases, especially for more dramatic transformations, a written contract may be necessary and should cover everything from colour goals, to time commitment and estimated costs, which can differ from stylist to stylist. Ramsey Sayah, owner of Texture Hair Salon in Ottawa and an artist for L’Oréal Professionnel, says he prefers to work with a client for four hours at a time—and over a few appointments—rather than dedicate a whole day to one client. One of the main benefits to this approach? There’s less of a chance there will be the need for many follow-ups.

EXPERT TIP: IN TERMS OF PRICING, A COMMON PRICING STRUCTURE IS THE SUM OF LABOUR/TIME AND PRODUCT COSTS.

2. Test It Out Since hair can sometimes have unexpected reactions to developers and colour, it’s important to do a strand test before fully diving in. Sayah will often cut off a small strand of his prospective client’s hair to lighten on his own time. By doing this, it helps him see how long it would take to lift to their desired level— and to determine if it’s even possible. “That’s when you can give them a proper price breakdown to set the expectation—you’ll have a much more loyal client after that and the whole process will just be smoother,” says Sayah, adding that for clients with high expectations (often stemming from looks seen on a celebrity or on social media) a test run is a good way to bring them back to reality. 3. Slow and Steady Many stylists think that the best way to achieve a high level of lift in a short period of time is to use a developer with a very high volume. However, doing so can lead to more damage, patchiness and warm undertones, which would then need to be corrected. Josie Vilay, owner of Winnipeg-based Hairology Studio and a member of the

PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES

The blonding process can be quite an investment—for both clients and colourists. From golden to platinum, these tips will help you make the transition easier.

“As a colourist, it would always be my first choice to do [a service] all at once,” says Lyseng. “My thought is, let’s just sit down for 10 hours and get this done, but not everybody can dedicate that amount of time and not everybody wants to pay that price all at once. You have to plan for what works for the client, but they have to also understand that it’s not magic. Even though you can make your hair six levels darker in 20 minutes, I can’t always make it six levels lighter in 20 minutes.”

Product Picks

Schwarzkopf Professional artistic team, says that some colourists are shocked that she uses a lower developer, between seven to 13 volume, but never higher than a 20 volume. “When using a lower developer, you’re letting it sit for a longer time, which helps the cuticle break a little slower,” she says. “That allows everything to process a little bit more evenly.” 4. Know When to Say No When you’re working with a harsh band or overly damaged hair, don’t let a client pressure you to lighten it anyway. If you think it will only cause more damage or breakage, especially if you’re working within the band area—or as Vilay calls it: The danger zone—trust your judgment and just say no. “I recently went through this experience and told my client to grow out her natural hair and I’d reassess later on,” she says, adding that this client had gone from brown to box-dye black and now wanted to go platinum. “Between her platinum and box colour and her virgin hair, I knew I couldn’t lighten the band because it would definitely break. Sometimes people aren’t meant to be blonde.”

Ash

To achieve the perfect ashy blonde (which tends to have more of a grey hue), the most important factors to consider are toning and proper colour distribution. Here’s how to get it right. 1. Tone Up You first need to have a neutral base before going in with a darker toner. Vilay

Wella Blondor Base Breaker Use as an express base-breaking service to neutralize unwanted warmth on natural and pre-lightened hair.

L’Oréal Professionnel Blond Studio Sunkissed Lightening Oil An ammonia-free alternative for creating luminous, natural-looking blonde colour.

recommends lightening the hair (using a lower developer) to one level higher than your target so that once you add in your darker toner, it’s exactly what you and your client envisioned. “You need that extra level to deposit ash,” she says. For example, if you want to reach a level eight ash, she advises first lifting it to a level nine before adding in your neutralizing toner. 2. Break the Base For clients who want an ashy look but don’t need to lighten their hair (or aren’t able to because their root growth isn’t enough), a naturallooking fix is to “break the base.” This involves lifting their roots one or one-and-a-half levels before toning the ends to give them a cooler and more neutral finish. It’s also a great solution for clients who want a lowermaintenance colour because it will naturally grow out similar to a balayage. Vilay also recommends root smudging for clients who don’t want to commit to root touchups every few months. “For root smudging, you’d only want to go two levels darker so you don’t have a band to deal with during your next touch-up,” she says. 3. Sectioning If you want even results, it’s important to make sure your sections are thin and that you’re providing enough tension when foiling. In doing this, you’re

Schwarzkopf BlondMe Bond Enforcing Premium Clay Lightener Ideal for balayage to keep hair protected while achieving up to seven levels of lift.

Revlon Professional Blonderful 5’ Soft Lightener Get a softer transition between the base and highlights with this lightening cream.

making sure that the lightener or colour is properly saturated on all strands. “When stylists use less tension, their application looks sloppier,” says Vilay. “Hair will be out of place and some sections will be thicker than others. That will result in certain patches lifting higher than others and won’t end with a clean and even look.”

Honey

There’s been a recent resurgence of warmer shades like honey blonde. It’s important to note, however, that there’s a fine line between honey and brassy, so here’s how to achieve it. ➤ salonmagazine.ca / September 2020 31

Power of Purple

1. Consultation is Everything Though working with warmer blondes like honey or golden may seem more straightforward—especially in comparison to platinum—consultations are still just as vital. Depending on your clients’ tastes, complexion and overall vision, you need to figure out the best tone within the honey range that would suit them. If it’s going to take multiple appointments to achieve it, you also need to discuss which wearable transition shade they would be happiest with.

If you’re still concerned about brassiness (even after lifting the pigment), opt for a purple toner to neutralize any extra warmth. Filiatrault recommends the Revlonissimo Colorsmetique Iridescent range. “I find that the violet in the shade really helps to make sure that you have that rich warmth without a brassy finish,” she says.

“I REALLY LIKE THAT WARMER TONES ARE BACK AND ON TREND BECAUSE NOT EVERYONE CAN PULL OFF A PLATINUM LOOK.” – VICKY FILIATRAULT, TECHNICAL MANAGER AND EDUCATOR FOR REVLON PROFESSIONAL

EXPERT TIP: FOR DARKER BASES THAT CAN’T BE FULLY LIGHTENED IN ONE SESSION, VILAY RECOMMENDS TONING IT WARMER TO MAKE IT EASIER TO LIFT THE SECOND TIME AROUND, WHILE STILL ENSURING IT’S WEARABLE FOR YOUR CLIENT BETWEEN APPOINTMENTS.

2. Neutralize Warm Undertones Just because you’re working with a warmer blonde shade doesn’t mean you want warm undertones. While you don’t need to lift off as much pigment as you would for a platinum look, neutralizing underlying yellow tones will give you a cleaner canvas to work with, and therefore more control when depositing colour. “I don’t want a lot of yellow underlying pigment because that will give me more of a brassy warmth,” says Lyseng. “[When creating honey blonde tones], I’m really looking more for that polished warmth.” 3. Zone Toning When it’s time to tone hair, Vicky Filiatrault, a technical manager and educator for Revlon Professional, says she comes across many colourists using one toner from root to end. Her advice? Break it up into zones to ensure the final look is balanced, even, and has some depth. “It’s really about analyzing the hair and figuring out where your toner needs to sit the longest, or if you should just use different shades through the roots, mid-shaft and ends,” she says. Keep in mind that if the ends are more porous, the toner will develop fastest there.

32 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

Golden

From Blake Lively to Reese Witherspoon, golden blonde hair can be absolutely stunning and luminescent if done right. Here are a few things to keep in mind when creating these looks. 1. Avoid Over-Lightening When trying to achieve a true golden blonde, be careful not to over-lighten the hair and remove all of its warmth. Focus on neutralizing any yellow undertones, and if your client already has a naturally gold undertone, use that to your advantage and amplify it, says Lyseng. “I’ll use Wella’s Illumina to achieve a warmer look because it gives me a little bit of a base break. I can mix it with a developer that allows it to be strictly a deposit, or have a little or more lift, depending on what the hair needs.”

2. Get Even When it comes to producing evenly distributed colour results, Lyseng says these two factors are crucial: The volume of your developer and your application technique. For developers, she recommends starting with a lower volume and moving up as you finish each quadrant of hair to make sure that your lightener is processing evenly. This will help prevent certain sections from processing quicker than others, and will keep hair from looking brassy if you use a developer that’s too high. Once it’s time to apply the lightener, Lyseng recommends modifying your application depending on the section of hair you’re working with. One example she recalls was with a client who wanted her warm ginger hair to be corrected and lightened to a rich golden blonde. Lyseng sectioned the hair and first started with babylights, which she used a weaving technique for, while bringing the lightener all the way to the scalp. For the next two sections, she used a slicing technique and only applied the lightener to the demarcation line, using a soft feathering technique to avoid any strong, noticeable lines.

PHOTO: HAIR: KERRIE DIMATTIA, DIMATTIA & CO HAIRDRESSING, AUSTRALIA, MAKEUP: SHARON FALLON & CANDICE CHEVALLEY, WARDROBE STYLING: KATIE SUTTON, PHOTO: PIXIE BELLA PHOTOGRAPHY

Challenge Accepted

Do colour corrections make you want to pull your hair out? We spoke with the experts for tips on tackling common colour dilemmas.

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

34 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

to manage their expectations. Alex Chabot, owner of Montreal-based Nzo Salon, says while it’s not uncommon for clients to have unrealistic expectations (thanks a lot, Instagram!), it’s your job as the professional to put things into perspective. “They need to know how many months it can take, how many appointments, how much per appointment, et cetera,” he says. “If you start with this conversation, the client may change their mind because it’s not in their budget or they wouldn’t be happy with the result because it wouldn’t be what they expected.”

To remove excess colour, Chabot likes to use Matrix SoColor Cult’s Colour Eraser, which is gentle and can be done in one application before lightening the hair.

Box Colour For clients using box colour, especially during the last few months, removing excess colour buildup and creating a clean canvas can be a significant amount of work. The key to addressing this is to thoroughly analyze the hair, which goes far beyond what meets the eye. Tried and Tested Even the most experienced professionals won’t rely solely on what their client tells them about their hair. While you

PHOTOS: GETTY STOCK

With the beginning of a new season upon us, it’s no surprise that many people may be seeking a colour change. Add to that the fact that it’s been months since some of your clients have returned to the salon, and chances are a colour correction will be needed to get their hair back on track. While consultations have always been important, they’re now more vital. “I think 15 minutes of my time is nothing compared to what it does for me, in terms of booking, and when it comes to ensuring that I can actually proceed with a service,” says Rodica Hristu, owner of ProHair Group in Toronto and an international artistic team member for Goldwell. “I need that consultation as much as the client does to make sure I have a better understanding of their hair’s condition and what the possibilities are.” While a consultation can help you get a better understanding of your client’s hair, it’s also an opportunity

“Go slow and make sure you have a beautiful colour at the end of each stage so that the client can walk out of the salon with a smile on their face, whether or not you achieved the target.”

QUICK TRICK ”If you’re short on time, Chabot suggests doing a freehand balayage to help give the client a quick, noticeable result. “For a brunette that wants to be lighter, I would do a freehand balayage while the regrowth is on her scalp, just to get rid of the excess colour and darkness so she feels like she’s a bit lighter. Sometimes clients will immediately love the result because it’s lighter, but it’s a good start and you have a cleaner palette to work with.”

might think you can diagnose many hair problems on your own, it’s important to be sure about what’s in their hair so you can be confident in your course of action. “With any box colour client, I always do a strand test,” says Armineh Damanpak, a Contessawinning hairstylist at Moods Hair Salon in Vancouver and an educator for Joico. “Because of the metals in some box colour, it can automatically react with any lightener and that’s when you can get the smoking of the foils. A strand test is number one for me because it alleviates so much pressure.” “With scheduling and trying to get the client in, coloured and finished in time, I don’t think hairstylists are doing strand tests enough,” Hristu adds. “It’s like doing an X-ray to see what’s inside the hair. If the results are promising, you can plan the rest of the colour correction. If it’s not looking good, you can easily colour [the strand] back and prepare the hair for another appointment six months down the road.” Damanpak says a common mistake that many hairstylists make is to automatically assume that lightening hair is the answer, when that’s not always the case. “People tend to think colour correction is a huge job, and that they have to go in and lighten the hair as much as possible to have a clean canvas to start on,” she says. “But sometimes that can make it so much harder. You can

—RODICA HRISTU, A TORONTO-BASED SALON OWNER AND INTERNATIONAL ARTISTIC TEAM MEMBER FOR GOLDWELL

often keep the integrity of the hair intact by just changing your formulas and using different shades to counteract bands or deposits. You don’t need to over-process hair to create a blank canvas.

2 Banding

Whether a client is going from dark to light or vice versa, banding can be a huge issue. While it’s most noticeable on lightened hair, it’s important to address no matter what colour your client’s hair is. “A lot of people have issues with banding and being able to tackle it using the right formulas and products,” says Damanpak. “Even if you can’t see the banding, once you go in with your lightener you’re exposing that. For me, it’s actually easier to tackle with lighter hair because you can push the yellow tones to a lighter level. With darker hair, you need to lift a lot more and use stronger products.” As for techniques, Chabot says he likes to foil the hair because of the natural heat that’s conducted in the hair. “You don’t need to close [the foils or papers],

just put a sheet in between each slice of hair. It’s going to retain heat and you’ll have more of an even result from the regrowth to the ends,” he says. “Start with the darker pieces at the mid-shaft, since most of the buildup will be in the middle of the hair. The regrowth area will lift easily because there’s more of the client’s natural colour and the ends are more porous so they will lift easier. Applying to the mid-shaft first makes sure there’s enough processing time and the result will be even.”

3 Porosity

For clients with damaged or porous hair, learning that the colour result they want might not be possible can be devastating. Since colour can damage the hair—no matter how careful you are—it’s important to make sure you’re addressing your client’s porosity accordingly. “Porous hair will always absorb the coolest tones first and you can end up with a patchy result,” says Hristu. “Stylists can be over-controlling when ➤ salonmagazine.ca / September 2020 35

QUICK TRICK For hair that’s very damaged, Damanpak says she will sometimes lighten it at the sink while it’s wet. “It’s more lubricated so it already has a barrier and is not going to deposit as much as it would on dry hair. Plus, the lightener won’t be as strong since it will [dilute] the strength and in turn, be less damaging.”

trying to lift hair and sometimes want to achieve one result with one formula— regardless of how many colours or levels of porosity there are—in an effort to save time. But you can’t expect one formula to get you one even result—you have to address each strand, patch and section.” “Before colouring hair, you really want to even out the porosity as much as possible, so it makes it a lot easier to deposit colour without getting groups of cool tones or pockets where colour is completely rejected,” adds Damanpak. She suggests using Joico’s Defy Damage system, which includes ProSeries 1, a bond-protecting, colour optimizer spray that’s applied to hair prior to the colour service to help protect it while evening out porosity. Type vs. Texture When working with different hair types and textures, remember that both features have a huge impact on what can

be achieved during a colour correction. “The actual porosity, type and texture of hair can make it quite hard to transition to a different colour,” says Chabot. “For example, with very curly or thick hair, colour can have the tendency to damage more, while fine hair can lift easier and have better elasticity and porosity longterm because of its smaller fibre. That means the amount of colour and excess buildup is less, and most of the time it

For clients with porous hair, Hristu suggests using a bond builder with Goldwell’s Elumen hair colour, which helps acidify the hair (balancing out its natural pH) to transform it so it’s back to (almost) virgin hair.

“It’s a business opportunity that more hairstylists should embrace rather than be scared of, because if you achieve what your client wants and provide a beautiful, healthy result, they will be a loyal customer for years.” —ALEX CHABOT, A MONTREAL-BASED SALON OWNER AND EDUCATOR FOR MATRIX 36 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

washes out fast so it’s easier to remove colour and apply something different.” When it comes to working with ethnic textures, Damanpak says there can be significant differences. “With stronger Asian hair, I have more leeway with it and can push it a little bit more. While Middle Eastern hair seems like it would be really strong, it actually gets damaged quite a bit quicker than you would imagine. These are some of the things I’ve noticed, but it really depends on the person,” she says. “It’s about understanding your client’s texture and knowing how it will react or behave before you do anything.” “I always try to incorporate the client’s texture into the colour,” says Hristu. “Everybody wants the same look but not everybody can wear it; helping the client understand that someone with very curly hair can’t have the smooth balayage we’re seeing on social media is important. There are looks that are going to look good on her textured hair and will suit her much better.”

CO LLE CTIO NS

September

An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level.

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; CHROMATIC

With rich tones and textured styles, this expertly crafted, award-winning British collection is nothing short of spectacular.

38 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

HAIR Robert Eaton, Russell Eaton Hair, U.K. MAKEUP Lucy Flower WARDROBE STYLING Clare Frith PHOTOS Richard Miles salonmagazine.ca / September 2020 39

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; SCHOOL YEARBOOK

Drawing inspiration from school yearbook photos, this British award-winning collection features bold hues with retro vibes.

HAIR Sophie Gibson and Jonathan Turner, Hooker & Young, U.K. MAKEUP Kristen B WARDROBE STYLING Clare Frith PHOTOS Michael Young

40 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

salonmagazine.ca / September 2020 41

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; WANDERLUST

Sharp cuts featuring vibrant bursts of colour are showcased in this Canadian collection.

CONTESSA 2020 FINALIST, CANADIAN COLOURIST Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer, Ont. MAKEUP & NAILS Jessica Brenner WARDROBE STYLING Nicole Pede PHOTOS Paula Tizzard

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Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; SHINE

With its creative cuts and standout styles, juxtaposed with the contrast of light and dark colours, this Canadian collection is truly a knockout.

CONTESSA 2020 FINALIST, CANADIAN COLOURIST Mirella Sementilli Rota, Freelance, Woodbridge, Ont. MAKEUP Taryn Evans WARDROBE STYLING Laura DiMarcantonio PHOTOS Natasha Gerschon

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Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; NOCTURNAL

With its striking colours and unique designs, Angelo Seminara's debut collection for Goldwell is a mysterious masterpiece.

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HAIR Angelo Seminara for Goldwell MAKEUP Laura Dominique WARDROBE STYLING Niccolo Torelli PHOTOS Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; KALEIDOSCOPE

Soft shapes combined with rich, beautiful colour take this ultra-feminine collection to the next level.

HAIR Bruno Marc at Marc Antoni, U.K. MAKEUP Katie Moore WARDROBE STYLING Bernard Connolly PHOTOS Jamie Blanshard

48 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; AMALGAMATION

With textured cuts and airy styles, this British collection encapsulates colour, shape and form to showcase creative colouring and styling.

HAIR Marc Antoni Artistic Team, U.K. MAKEUP Katie Moore WARDROBE STYLING Bruno Marc PHOTOS Jamie Blanchard

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Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; TOMORROW IS ANOTHER DAY

This Canadian collection celebrates the beauty of hair textures with glamorous, ultra-feminine styles.

52 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

HAIR Martin Hillier, The Lounge Hair Studio, Vancouver MAKEUP Zabrina Matiru WARDROBE STYLING Vincent Lee PHOTOS Liz Dungate MODELS Kelsy Maya & Dalia Ananga, Wild Management salonmagazine.ca / September 2020 53

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; LUX

From bold silhouettes to an eye-catching palette of multidimensional colours, this British collection is truly a work of art. HAIR Shaun Hall, Mark Leeson, U.K. MAKEUP Clare Read WARDROBE STYLING M&R PHOTOS Richard Miles

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You’re Invited!

• #Contessa2021 • #ContessaAwards

CONTESSA AWARDS 2021 the

*virtual* party of the year

DAT E

N OV EM B ER 8, 2020

More details at SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa

Patrick G. Nadeau With nearly 20 years of experience, Patrick G. Nadeau is no stranger to the world of hairstyling. Nominated for the Elite Master Hairstylist category last year, he finally took the leap to enter the Contessa Awards for the very first time. “I’ve always wanted to enter but the biggest challenge for me is to find the time,” says Nadeau, who is a salon owner and usually travels six times a year for fashion week. “Now, I wish I would have entered the Contessas sooner in my career.” Breaking the Rules For his collection, Nadeau explored the theme of DIY Youth Punk culture, which is unapologetic expression mixed with rock ’n’ roll chic. “I was trying to make the models look like the main performers of an underground band,” he says. “I was the lead singer of an emergent band in the late ’90s and spent most of my days with musicians. That’s when I first realized that hair plays a key role in the making of an icon.” Nadeau made the bold choice to include women and men in his

58 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

collection, which can be difficult when trying to create cohesive looks. “We’re seeing it more and more. We’re moving into a new world with more neutrality and less gender separation,” he says, adding that his Montreal-based salon (RDV par Patrick G. Nadeau) also embraces gender neutrality by offering genderless pricing. “Having the opportunity to include people with every hair type—some more feminine or masculine—is something that’s more current. It can be a bit of a challenge, but challenges are what make you grow when you create a collection.” Wig Hair, Don’t Care For all of the looks, Nadeau worked with wigs, which took more than two months to create. The key to making them look natural? Nadeau says preparation is everything. “The prep under the wig is as important as the actual wig. You see so many pictures of models wearing wigs and it looks like they have a television on their head. It’s really important to prep the hair so the wig sits naturally.

That means placing a proper wig wrap underneath and making sure you can collapse every single hair so there’s no volume underneath.” One of the standout styles features a model sporting a wet look and finger waves on chartreuse yellow hair, which Nadeau, who is an Essential Looks Trainer for Schwarzkopf Professional, created using Igora ColorWorx, mixing green and yellow shades. He also used tbh - true beautiful honest colour for a muted result and finished with G Force Gel to create the dewy look. “It was really important for me to create looks that were different from the shapes we see in the hair industry. Trying to push the envelope—to do something unexpected that stands out from the rest and is closer to fashion artistry,” he says. “There’s also a focus on texture and structure; every look is multidimensional.” While things have slowly gotten back to normal for Nadeau, he says he’s continuing to work on his portfolio and shoot more projects. “With the COVID situation, there’s a way to find models that just want some cool hair,” he says. “With ring lights and your phone, you can create really good photos at almost no cost.”

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTO: HAIR: PATRICK G. NADEAU, RDV PAR PATRICK G. NADEAU, MONTREAL, MAKEUP: ANN-MARIE TREMBLAY, WARDROBE STYLING: CAMY-ROSE MARCHAND, PHOTO: NEIL MOTA

Contessa Gallery — 2020 FINALIST, ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST

“Challenges are what make you grow when you create a collection.”

Are you doing everything you can to help clients maintain their colour at home? Find out five easy ways to make selling take-home colour protection products your secret weapon this season.

When it comes to your post-lockdown colour services, there’s so much to consider. Whether it’s faded colour and longer regrowth from being overdue for an appointment, or damage and buildup from box dyes, hair colour has truly become the new wild west. Now more than ever, retraining your clients to develop new colour-helping habits is key. Whether they’re a returning client or a first-timer, we spoke with the experts for tips on making the sale. “Retailing continues to be a missed opportunity in the salon, with a very low percentage of recommendations being made,” says Terry Ritcey, director of education and events for Redken Canada. “Stylists have lots of reasons and excuses, for example: It takes too long, I didn’t have time, et cetera. The reality is that when clients have just made a major investment—whether it’s colour, highlights, or any technique in the hair—takehome or continued care is their insurance policy.” PRO TIP: RITCEY SUGGESTS GIVING CLIENTS A PERSONALIZED TUTORIAL, BY PLACING THEIR PHONE ON A TRIPOD AND TEACHING THEM HOW TO USE THE PRODUCTS AS YOU’RE STYLING THEIR HAIR.

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTOS: GETTY

“It’s not a strategy, it’s more of a prescription,” says Stephanie Karellas, owner and creative director of Kroma Salon in King City, Ont. “We tell them what they need, not what they should have. It’s what their hair needs to sustain its health and colour. When you’re doing your job properly, you’re also taking the time to educate the client.”

“If it’s not part of your client’s budget today, give them a paper with a prescription of recommended products. Even if they don’t buy them directly from you, at least you know it’s guaranteeing your colour work. In turn, they will be much happier and return to you.” — TERRY RITCEY, DIRECTOR OF EDUCATION AND EVENTS FOR REDKEN CANADA

1. PLANTING THE SEED “If the proper consultation is given to a guest before you touch their hair, the step prior to rebooking them for their next appointment is the recommendation, need and understanding for take-home care. Clients will leave happier because their hair colour will look better, with longer life between visits and less fading.”

Business —

Protecting Your Colour– At All Costs 2. SEEING IS BELIEVING “Once we find out what they’re looking for, it’s about utilizing the product while executing the service, and showing them as you’re using it. It’s really effective. You’re not only showing them how to use it but at the end of the service, they’re seeing the result and when they’re happy, they’ll want to replicate it at home.” — STEPHANIE KARELLAS

— TERRY RITCEY

3. SPEAK UP “The biggest reason why retail is not sold in the salon is this: The stylists are not talking about it. If they make retail part of a conversation, it’s telling, not selling. It’s just as important as getting the payment for the service. It’s the trade-off of very important information.”

4. CONFIDENCE IS KEY “I always try to put myself in the shoes of the consumer. People buy things that work, so if I feel strongly about how amazing a product is, I know I’ll be comfortable talking about it. It’s important to make sure you’re offering quality service. Once you have that down, you’re not really afraid to offer high-quality products because they go hand in hand with the type of service you’re offering.” — STEPHANIE KARELLAS

— TERRY RITCEY

5. KNOW YOUR STUFF “Gone are the days when we just have a bottle of colour care shampoo. You can get more specific with better solutions to address your clients’ concerns. It’s important to know and understand your options because it doesn’t matter if it’s the most professional colour—all colour fades. Providing options for longer colour between visits with less fading will result in happier clients that return with colour that looks better.”

PRO TIP: WHILE SOME CLIENTS MAY HAVE A SET BUDGET FOR THEIR SERVICE, KARELLAS SAYS IT’S IMPORTANT TO NEVER ASSUME WHAT PEOPLE CAN AFFORD, AND TO NOT SHY AWAY FROM OFFERING TAKE-HOME RECOMMENDATIONS.

— TERRY RITCEY

salonmagazine.ca / September 2020 59

With a jet-setting career and client list that most dream of, Frederic Aspiras turned his career as a makeup artist into becoming Lady Gaga’s hairstylist of choice.

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

How did you get your start? I moved from San Francisco [to L.A.] after declining a huge job offer with a makeup company. It was everything I thought I wanted but I felt I needed to push myself and follow my dreams. It was a huge risk! I started from the bottom doing shoots—half of the time for free—to build my portfolio. I had to freelance at department store makeup counters. This went on for almost four years until one day I got a call out of the blue from Kent Belden (who is still my agent to this day) whom I knew from doing small jobs here and there. He said Paris Hilton was attending the Kids’ Choice Awards and needed someone to do makeup and hair. At that time, not a lot of people were doing both hair and makeup, but having grown up learning everything about beauty, from hair, makeup, nails, skin, et cetera, I was well prepared for this moment. I showed up at her house and the rest is history. She took me on to do four TV shows, we filmed around the world and did numerous campaigns. It was one of the best times in my life. Your mother was a hairstylist. How did she inspire you to pursue hairstyling as a career? I guess you can say a mother’s intuition is always right! As a child, my mother, Suzie Nguyen, saw something in me that I didn’t know of myself. I loved the arts, fashion and beauty, and because my sister was a teen model, I would go with her on castings and shoots and get a firsthand glimpse of that world. I would help her with her makeup and hair, and 60 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

Her work and business ethics were unparalleled and have made me want to be just like her. As a single mother, business owner, and immigrant from Vietnam, she believed in hard work and smart wits. She always had high hopes for her children and made sure that when I told her I was going to pursue a career in beauty, that I was fully prepared. I’d say she did a fine job! You’ve become quite known for your work with wigs. What do you most enjoy about working with them? In 1994, when I started doing hair professionally, there weren’t a lot of professionals using extensions, let alone wigs. Growing up in San Francisco in the ’90s was an explosion of culture: I had such a diverse group of core friends, a lot of whom were artists and performers like me and I would do their hair and makeup using every colour in the rainbow, along with various types of wigs and extensions. I found that by stepping out of my comfort zone and using other tools, a look became more exciting and really showed my point of view. Wigs and extensions took the fantasy and made it reality. I always have wigs and extensions in my kit.

What are the top three things Frederic Aspiras must have in his styling kit? Find out at SalonMagazine.ca.

my mother would ask who did it. When she found out it was me, at the early age of 13, I started to work at her salon on weekends. I started by helping her with chores and watching her as she worked on her clients. This went on for many years until I became my own stylist. It was at her salon that I truly became myself and was allowed to create. She inspired me to lead with compassion and integrity when working with clients.

Of course, we have to ask about Lady Gaga! How did you start working with her and what has most surprised you about her or your partnership? One day, after returning home from another long international trip, I got a phone call from my agent asking me if I would like to work with an upcoming artist named Lady Gaga. [At the time], I had just watched her “bleed” all over herself on TV and, like everyone else, was intrigued as to who this person was. She needed someone to go with her on a short two-month theatre tour to promote her album, The Fame. I honestly had doubts—not because of working with her, but I didn’t want to start another journey with another

PHOTOS: JOICO

Profile — FREDERIC ASPIRAS

The Man Behind the Magic

discipline and the work you put in. Having a celebrity as a client brings out your true work ethics and perseverance. Having someone like Gaga challenge me artistically is a gift. Being able to showcase my creativity is the result of years of work and trust that she and I have built. What would people be surprised to learn about you? I am a complete nerd when it comes to the history of fashion and trends. I just love knowing when and how things were made and when they were used. You could say I’m a walking historian of pop culture and fashion. Also, I am very passionate about animal welfare. It’s been a mission of mine for a long time to help support animal shelters and their cause. Aspiras has worked with Lady Gaga for more than 10 years, and is responsible for creating some of her most memorable hair looks. This year he worked on her music videos for “Stupid Love” and “Rain on Me”.

client when I already had so much work. But something inside me told me to go for it, so I accepted the offer. It was going to be a short two-month gig going across the country but one thing led to another. Fast-forward 11 years and who could have known she would become one of the world’s most respected and beloved artists? She’s a wonderful human being, first and foremost, and our partnership is more like a friendship, with much respect for what we both bring to the other’s life. She’s always had a way of bringing out the best in everyone she works with, so in the beginning it wasn’t as easy as it looks now. I definitely and ultimately had to prove myself. She gave me freedom to create and make things for her, but with that, a lot of self-doubt and ego can take over. I’ve learned over the years to trust myself and become my own leader. In all, she has made me a better person than I was the first day I met her—not only with my art but as a human being.

Earlier this year, you worked on her music videos, including “Stupid Love.” Tell us about your vision for her hair (in terms of the colour and overall look) and how you brought it to life. For Gaga’s hair colour, I was inspired by the concept of the music and the vibe of the album. I wanted the pink hair to have a special metallic, chrome finish and unique glow. I created dimensions within the hair colour by placing multiple shades of lavender, purple and bright pink throughout the interior of the hair and strategically on top of the hair. It was important that it have a lot of shine and silky movement. I wanted it to move like water and make splashes of pink when she danced or moved. What has been your secret to building such a great relationship with a celebrity while also being able to showcase your creativity as a hairstylist? There is no secret. Building a great relationship with anyone starts with

You’re a celebrity guest artist with Joico. Tell us about your role and what you most enjoy about working with them. Partnering up with Joico this past year has been the most rewarding experience. The camaraderie and support within the team is remarkable. When I approached [the brand] about using their products, it was an immediate match, as I have been a fan for a while. I work with a lot of blondes and Joico is the best when it comes to the health of hair—especially for blondes. And now that they have perfected protection for chemical treatment services, I am free to create colours and styles with the peace of mind that the integrity of the hair will be protected. What are some of the hair colour and styling trends you’re seeing this year? Any predictions for 2021? Since the music video for “Stupid Love” has finally come out, Gaga and I have been teasing the pink hair for a while before the release, so it’s nice to see that colour be popular again. I enjoy seeing a lot of very avant-garde colouring and tones. Hopefully for 2021, more stylists will really express their art with more diverse colour palettes. I want to see new tones being introduced to the mainstream. salonmagazine.ca / September 2020 61

Interiors — SALON SCAVO

Clean Cut Find out how this veteran Toronto-based salon owner has reinvented his space with a fresh redesign. BY KAROUN CHAHINIAN

Salon owner and hairstylist Gianfranco Scavo has been a staple in Toronto’s Yonge and St. Clair neighbourhood for more than 40 years. Last fall, he was excited to launch his newly renovated and renamed space: Salon Scavo. “We wanted to create a contemporary yet timeless design,” says Scavo. “I like a very tight and clean look, so that’s where I drew my inspiration from.” Going the Distance It’s been less than a year since the relaunch of the salon, which was a finalist for Salon Interior Design at the 2020 Contessa Awards. But Scavo could have never predicted that he would have to make additional design changes because of the COVID-19 pandemic. To help keep his staff and clients as safe as possible, Scavo decided to install plexiglass throughout the space. “While our salon is already quite big and we’re able to space everyone out quite nicely, 62 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

we wanted to ensure everyone was fully protected,” he says. “Our biggest investment was creating little glass barriers between the shampoo stations and at the reception area.” Cool It Down Scavo’s original salon featured a lot of cherry wood and warmer accents, but with the redesign, he wanted to embrace a more modern and sharp-cut aesthetic. He incorporated cooler tones and materials like marble, green-tinted glass and steel, but made sure to focus on keeping the space bright and airy by incorporating lots of natural and artificial light. Another way he brought his contemporary vision to life was through the use of unique statement walls throughout the salon. For example, the washing area features a geometric black wall made up of diamond-shaped pieces. The reception area is set apart with a

glass waterfall feature directly behind it, while his drying station features a more “organic” wall with panels of bleached wood to add warmth back into the space. “It really tied in well and softened up that whole area, because we didn’t

WITH HIS CLIENTS' SAFETY TOP OF MIND, SCAVO ADDED PLEXIGLASS BARRIERS BETWEEN HIS SHAMPOO STATIONS.

DETAILS Opened in November 2019 SPACE 3,600 square feet TEAM 16 BRANDS Revlon Professional UNITE DESIGNER Pat Candeloro FURNITURE AND CONTRACTING Fiore + Greco Design Inc. Geometric Design Woodworking INSTAGRAM @salonscavotoronto WEBSITE salonscavo.com

PHOTOS: JOHN XU, SALON SCAVO

a 75-inch flat screen that plays a loop of different fashion shows and presentations from around the world.

want the space to become too cold or unwelcoming,” he says. “You have to create a serene environment for your workers and clients.” Scavo’s favourite part of the salon? The double-sided “fashion wall” with

Fully Loaded Scavo customized his styling stations to include LED lighting and built-in storage, so the stylists’ daily routines are as efficient as possible. “All the wiring and tools are kept inside the floating stations,” he says. “It was important for me to have everything clean and off

the floor, for appearance and to make it easier on my team.” Scavo also made the decision to invest in high-quality chairs. The ones at the cutting stations are all purposely luxurious and grand, and are made with great back support, while the chairs at the sinks are fully adjustable to the client’s height. “They cost a fortune, but are definitely worth the investment,” he says. “You don't see chairs like that too often.” salonmagazine.ca / September 2020 63

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The winners of Wella’s Beauty Envision Awards were announced on Sunday, August 9th via Facebook Live. Hosted by Carole Protat, senior director of brand education for Wella, the virtual announcement named the North American winners of the brand’s annual photo-based competition. Congratulations to Valvano Salon of St. Catharines, Ont., who took home the title of Salon Team and Lauren Wilde of St. Albert, Alta, the winner of the Canadian Color Artist of the Year!

In case you missed it, global investment firm KKR recently acquired a majority stake in Coty, in a deal valued at an estimated $4.3 billion. Coty continues to retain 40 per cent of its professional brands, including Wella, Sebastian Professional, Nioxin, Clairol Professional, ghd and OPI.

New Beginnings Joico has recently appointed Melisa Gill as their new general manager. Gill is an experienced executive who relocated from Canada to the U.S. in 2016, working as the brand’s vice president of global marketing and new product development. She has formerly worked at L’Oréal and Piidea Canada. Gill has replaced Sara Jones, a professional beauty industry veteran, who served as Joico’s SVP and general manager.

Moving On Up Erica Nieuwenhuis has been named a global technical ambassador for Bio Sculpture International. With more than 20 years of experience, the president and CEO of Bio Sculpture Canada will now be involved in creating effective communication to enhance education, promote safe practices and create increased awareness about nail health to empower technicians with all the tools they need to succeed.

Scoop —

Acquisition News

Sa lon Ma ga z ine .ca

Events —

2020 Beauty Envision Awards

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salonmagazine.ca / September 2020 65

#SalonStrong —

Power of Perseverance WITH SALONS BACK UP-AND-RUNNING ACROSS THE COUNTRY, HAIRSTYLISTS ARE ADAPTING TO THEIR NEW WAY OF DOING BUSINESS. AS YOU CONTINUE TO SHARE YOUR WORDS OF ENCOURAGEMENT FOR THE HAIR COMMUNITY, REMEMBER: WE’RE IN THIS TOGETHER. TAG US ON INSTAGRAM FOR A CHANCE TO BE FEATURED!

Amber Joy, Owner of Amber Joy & Co., Winnipeg The “new normal” as we now know it definitely posed some challenges in the beginning. There were many new steps and procedures to follow, rescheduling to be done, and restructuring in terms of how our appointments were booked. Once we tackled these obstacles, we surprisingly adjusted to everything quite well. Now more than ever, it is vital to communicate the changes to your salon procedures and policies with your clients and staff so they know what to expect. We no longer can provide the same type of salon experience that we once did, but what we can do is ensure that everyone feels safe, informed, and taken care of in a positive way during their service. Staying open-minded and going with the flow is the best way to ensure a smooth transition for everyone. For me and my team, we just try to keep a positive attitude about the situation and are grateful to be back to work. The physical, mental and emotional burnout is real, though, so I recommend not overbooking yourself, and making sure to prioritize self-care outside of work. Staëlle Coulombe, Staëlle Colorful-Coloriste, Quebec City

@ericchairstylist Things may never go back to normal. You may need to create a new normal. And that’s OKAY.

66 salonmagazine.ca / September 2020

@michaellevinehair Wear a mask, wear a shield! Respect your community!

@peter_potrus Back to work with extra protection against COVID-19!

@sherman_wong Keep cutting, keep cutting

PHOTOS: AMBER JOY, STAËLLE COULOMBE, INSTAGRAM

2020 has been a very special year and has taught us to slow down our hectic pace of life—to rethink the basics, take the time to offer our clients a moment of relaxation, and maybe even a suggestion for a new look to underline these changes. I appreciate being able to take more time with my clients—to be less booked to the minute. Obviously, it is sometimes difficult not to talk about COVID-19 and I always try to find other topics of conversation, but if that turns out to be impossible, to turn it into a positive conversation. I talk about the good that happened: spending more time with family, decorating the house, the new garden that’s growing too many cucumbers, the new recipes tried during confinement, etc. The important thing when communicating with our clients is to keep a positive note at all times, both on social media and during their appointment. There is always a positive side to every situation—you just have to find and focus on it!

Sm N Te ar ow ch tR wi no ele th l o as gy e ™ !

COLOR BALANCE PURPLE

BRASS ATTACK

s e d n o Bl Attacks brass for cool, bright, 2X stronger* hair in just one treatment. Supercharged pigments instantly neutralize brassy and yellow tones to keep BLONDES cool through 12 washes. Plus, Joico’s SmartRelease™ liposome delivery system helps protect hair from the damaging effects of daily styling.

JOICO.CA 2020 Joico® Laboratories, Imported by Piidea Canada, Mississauga, ON, L5N 6C3 HAIR Olivia Smalley PHOTO Hama Sanders

#colorbalancepurple *Against combing breakage on damaged hair vs. a non-conditioning shampoo; when using Color Balance Purple Shampoo and Conditioner together