Salon Magazine, September/October 2023

HOW TO HANDLE UNSATISFIED COLOUR CLIENTS

Bursting with Colour

SOURCE

NEW! BLOW DRY SHAPING LOTION

The perfect combination of heat protection, weightless hydration and shape memory.

With one use hair is 3x more moisturized* with 72 hours of shape memory**

NEW! ACIDIC BONDING CONCENTR ATE

5-MIN

POWERED

POWERFUL, CLEAN, EVEN LIFT

POWER 9 BONDER INSIDE

OUR MOST POWERFUL LIGHTENER WITH UP TO 9 LEVELS OF LIFT

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BREAK THROUGH RED, ORANGE & YELLOW UNDERTONES

FOR ALL HAIR TYPES & TEXTURES

PROMOTES BOND INTEGRITY DURING A LIGHTENING SERVICE

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*With Power 9 Bonder Inside, SEQ Bonder Inside, and Acidic Bonding Concentrate System

INDULGE IN EVERY SHADE

NEW CHOCOLATE COLLECTION

Care-infused formulas help reduce damage for luxurious color, guilt-free.

30

FEATURE

Cleaner Canvas

Looking for ways to improve your foiling and hair painting skills? Check out these expert tips that will help you “brush up” on your techniques.

35

FEATURE

Boosting Your Colour Biz

From corrections and blonding to root touch-ups and more, these insights can help you build business with your colour services.

39

INSPIRATION

Collections

Julie Vriesinga; Chelsea Sutherland; Ken Hung; Antoinette Beenders & X-presion Creativos for Aveda; Alfredo Valero

52

CONTESSA GALLERY

Danielle Degraaf

Learn about this smalltown hairstylist’s journey to becoming a Contessa finalist. Plus, find out what inspired the bright colours, placement and cuts in her collection.

“The disconnect that a lot of new colourists are facing is that they overpromise and underdeliver because the consultation wasn’t there.”

— HEATHER HALL,

COLOURIST FOR L’ORÉAL

12

Editor’s Letter

14

LET’S GET DIGITAL SalonMagazine.ca

From staying up to date on industry and Contessa news to garnering inspiration from our extensive collection archive and hair how-tos, discover what’s new on our website.

17

WHAT’S NEW Hairlines

Learn about the latest product launches in colour, haircare, styling, nails and more. Plus, get expert tips for adding disconnection to your cuts and see a roundup of hair trends from Fall/Winter Fashion Weeks.

44

54 BUSINESS Making Amends

It’s never easy when a client is unhappy with their hair colour results. Learn how to best resolve (and prevent) these situations with expert tips.

56 PROFILE Paying It Forward

Get to know Ricardo Santiago and discover how he made the move from barber to a flourishing and in-demand hairstylist and colourist.

58

INTERIORS

Picture Perfect

Take a peek inside this Quebec-based hairstylist’s salon and learn how his passion for construction and love of hair helped him build his dream salon.

48

64 Events + Scoop

66

SALON STORIES

Colour Confidential

No matter how much you try to avoid them, mistakes happen! From identifying what went wrong to learning how to fix issues, read about mishaps Canadian colourists have experienced in the salon.

ALFREDO VALERO, BLADES HAIR STUDIO, SPAIN

CHELSEA SUTHERLAND, CHELSEA LAINE SALON AND COLOUR BAR, NEW GLASGOW, N.S.

M I R ACLE HA I R R ESC U E Le ave -In Tre a tme n t NE W ©2023 The Wella Company

SHINIER HAIR AFTER EACH USE

*Wella

12X SMOOTHER HAIR Company is a member in the International Collaboration on Cosmetics Safety.

Work Hard, Play Hard

From its cooler weather to its cozier fashion vibes, fall is one of my favourite seasons. It’s also the time of year that many clients choose to undergo significant hair changes. It seems only fitting that this issue be dedicated to hair colour, with ways to help you enhance your techniques for blonding, colour corrections and more.

In “Cleaner Canvas” (page 30), we gathered expert tips to help you reduce mess (and stress), increase efficiency and take your painting and foiling game to the next level. We also checked in with colourists for their suggestions on increasing revenue with colour corrections, root touch-ups and more in “Boosting Your Colour Biz” (page 35). And because we know that things can sometimes go sideways despite your best efforts, in “Making Amends” (page 54), we break down some of the best ways to communicate with and help unsatisfied clients.

And in Contessa Awards news, the months of September and October are huge! Our entry deadline is September 6th, so don’t miss your chance to submit your collection(s) for a chance to win. Semi-finalists will be announced in our weekly newsletter on September 24th, so be sure to subscribe if you haven’t already to be among the first to receive the news. And have you heard? Sassoon Academy Toronto is our education sponsor this year and will be generously offering our winners a complimentary education voucher!

We can’t wait to celebrate the 35th anniversary of the Contessa Awards at our annual gala in Toronto, and we want to see you and your crew there! Tickets go on sale starting September 27th and we have an exciting show planned to mark this special occasion that you’ll want to be part of.

As for the much-anticipated Contessa finalists list? Stay tuned in early October for this exciting drop. You won’t want to miss it!

Salon Magazine

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca

ART DIRECTOR Barbara Burrows

DIGITAL SPECIALIST Shanice Romelus shanice@salonmagazine.ca

CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner, Claire Latham, Lucy Mazzucco

SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Marc Gadbois marc@salonmagazine.ca

SALES & EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lauren Farrugia lauren@salonmagazine.ca

PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca

OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca

CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER & PUBLISHER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca

Salon Magazine 806-150 Eglinton

Veronica Boodhan Editorial Director

This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilites exist. Printed on recyclable paper

PRINTED IN CANADA

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131 or e-mail helpdesk@subscriptions.salon. Our privacy officer is Adrian Holland.

This project has been made possible [in part] by the Government of Canada.

INNOVATIVE. POWERFUL. RESPONSIBLE. THE NEW TOPCHIC ZERO.

Goldwell introduces the incredibly caring, ammonia-free addition to Topchic. Topchic Zero stays true to its iconic heritage while giving you more options for your color services. The vegan formula* offers incredibly natural, reliable grey coverage –up to 100% – while providing natural looking, even color results with up to 2x more shine**. Discover more at goldwell.com

Scan to learn more about Topchic Zero.

*Free from animal-derived ingredients. **Vs untreated hair.

Contessa Countdown

With the entry deadline on September 6th and tickets on sale starting September 27th, you won’t want to miss being part of this year’s celebrations! Stay tuned to our website for more info.

Inspiration Awaits

Ignite your creative spirit with editorial hair looks from around the globe in our collection archive.

LEVEL UP

Learn how to recreate some of the hottest looks of the year for your clients with our how-tos and step-by-steps from industry pros.

Find Your Match

Whether you’re a beauty pro looking for a new place to work or a salon owner looking to grow your team, use our job board to help you in your search.

Be in the know on the latest news and announcements by subscribing to our weekly newsletter. Sign up now and be among the first to see the Contessa semi-finalists list!

Viva Magenta!

Congratulations to Julio Rodriguez of Valentini Hair Design in Guelph, Ont. on winning our “So You Think You Can Colour?” Viva Magenta contest! Find out how he created this show-stopping look.

For his Heroine collection, New Zealand-based hairstylist Danny Pato was inspired by bursts of colour powders and ink-in-water art created by Alberto Seveso, as well as iconic pop culture heroines that refer to mythological women with great strength or ability. From creative placements and pops of colour to texture styling and bold fashion choices, Pato wanted to celebrate and emphasize the queen, goddess and warrior from different mediums including manga, video games, comic books and superhero films. This daring and eye-catching collection is sure to inspire you to play with colours, textures and styles this season!

PHOTO: HAIR:TK

COZY UP TO A NEW ROUTINE THIS FALL WITH THE LATEST PRODUCT LAUNCHES IN COLOUR, STYLING, CARE AND MORE.

Hair Repair

Help your clients reverse hair damage with Ultimate Repair Hair

Rescue from Wella Professionals.

With more and more clients looking for quick and easy hair fixes to get them through their busy days, Wella Professionals has unveiled its Ultimate Repair Hair Rescue, a transformative new treatment for smooth, strong and shiny hair. In just 90 seconds, the leave-in spray replicates the reparative powers of skin and helps repair all hair types and textures from the inside out. Formulated with alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) to rebuild bonds inside the hair and omega-9 to replenish the outside, Ultimate Repair Hair Rescue offers 99 per cent less breakage and 12 times smoother hair with extra shine. Plus, it even helps detangle while offering long-lasting results.

Autumn Hues

Customize your colours and maximize shine with the new LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color shades from Joico.

Ideal for toning pre-lightened hair, colour corrections, colour personalization and glossing, LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Colors are now available in a three-shade series made from an ammonia-free, pH-balanced and drip-free formula. Helping deliver up to two times the shine while replenishing hair, the shade families include Natural Beige (NB)—6NB, 7NB and 9NB—that are ideal for creating natural-looking beige hues or neutralizing warmth; Gold (G)—7G and 9G—offer golden-blonde and honey-blonde results; and Warm Copper (WC)—5WC, 6WC and 7WC—for rich and vibrant red tones.

Bonding and Beyond

Get up to nine levels of

lift

while protecting hair bonds with Redken’s Power 9 Bonder Inside.

Ideal for all hair types and textures, this new powder lightener breaks through red, orange and yellow undertones while providing a powerful, clean and even lift. The all-in-one bonder and lightener enables you to lighten and protect in one step with pre-mixed bonding technology that helps increase elasticity and shine for smooth hair after lightening services. It also preserves the integrity of fibres and helps reduce breakage throughout the process. The lightener can be used for on- and off-scalp applications on all levels, but it’s recommended for levels two to five when you’re looking to achieve maximum lift. It’s also fragrance-free and available in packaging made from 96 per cent recycled plastic (excluding the cap).

PHOTO: JOICO, WELLA PROFESSIONALS, REDKEN

STRENGTHENER RX x

CARE. CONDITION. COAT.™

A nourishing and strengthening nail coating that adds protection while thickening and smoothing the nail surface. Breathable Formula & Vegan.

INCLUDES CELERY SEED EXTRACT, TSUBAKI OIL (CAMELLIA FLOWER SEED OIL) AND ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS SUCH AS OMEGA-6, OMEGA 9, VITAMINS A, B, E AND ZINC.

Blown Away

Transform your clients’ hair with Biolage’s Hydra Source Blow Dry Shaping Lotion.

Formulated with aloe and hyaluronic acid and free of parabens, silicones, and mineral oils, Hydra Source Blow Dry Shaping Lotion from Biolage will not only help protect your clients’ hair from heat up to 450°F, but it also reduces drying time. Ideal for all hair types, it’s designed to leave hair feeling soft and silky without any sticky residue.

Better Blonding ➣

TOPCHIC ZERO IS EASY TO MIX WITH GOLDWELL SYSTEM DEVELOPER LOTIONS, IS COMPATIBLE WITH THE BRAND’S @PURE PIGMENTS, AND MATCHES SELECT SHADES OF TOPCHIC AND COLORANCE!

CONSCIOUS COLOUR

Be mindful without compromising with Goldwell’s Topchic Zero.

Goldwell is expanding its colour portfolio with the introduction of Topchic Zero. This new ammonia-free colour is available in 27 shades across eight tonal families and o ers up to 100 per cent grey coverage with smooth results and up to two times more shine. Its vegan formula contains 94 per cent naturally derived ingredients that include acai oil and white tea essence, which are known to help with hair breakage and conditioning. In addition, it features fruit, citrus and earthy fragrance notes, has a 98 per cent biodegradable formula, and its packaging is made from up to 100 per cent recycled materials!

Take your blonde clients to the next level with reformulated products from Schwarzkopf Professional’s BLONDME line.

With more than 60 per cent of the average salon’s colour revenue derived from blonding services, you need to ensure you have all the right products on hand for your blonde clients’ individual hair wants and needs.

Schwarzkopf Professional is reintroducing its beloved BLONDME system with reformulations of the brand’s Premium Lightener 9+, Clay Lightener and Bleach & Tone, as well as the colouration portfolio featuring Pastel Toning, Deep Toning, Blonde Lifting and Lift & Blend. The new-and-improved products are now integrated with Anti-Metal Bond Protection Technology, which helps capture and neutralize metal ions found in hair. The new technology also helps to create a protective layer around bonds to shield hair while minimizing breakage.

BLONDME’s in-salon lighteners and colour products, along with its at-home care range, include 3D Bond Creation Technology with a dual bond system that not only protects the bonds during chemical processes, but also helps create new bonds for stronger results. The line is available in revamped packaging that features an improved assortment structure and premium recyclable packaging.

PHOTO: BIOLAGE,, GOLDWELL, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

BELIEVE IN WHAT HAIR

CAN BE POWERED BY SILK+ TECHNOLOGY FOR STRONGER, MORE BEAUTIFUL HAIR.

KERASILK, built on 40 years of innovation, 100% vegan and enhanced by Biomimetic Silk, will make you believe in the transformative power of hair care.

Bombshell Blondes

Condition and lock in brightness and strength with Olaplex’s No.5P Blonde Enhancer Toning Conditioner.

Formulated with the brand’s Bond Building Technology to help maintain strong and healthy-looking hair, No.5P Blonde Enhancer Toning Conditioner is ideal for blonde clients who are looking to avoid brassy, dry and dull hair. Helping to improve brightness and balance tones, the product includes microfine pigments that reach the gaps that can be left by larger pigments. Plus, the root-to-tip formula allows for weightless and nourishing hydration while helping to detangle and soften strands. Olaplex’s No.5P Blonde Enhancer Toning Conditioner can be used at home as a stand-alone option for subtle toning or after the brand’s No.4P Blonde Enhancer Toning Shampoo to help lock in brightness.

Give It Your Best Shot!

What you need to know about entering (and voting) for the Contessa Freestyle category.

It’s time to show us what you’ve got for the Contessa Freestyle award! This one-photo category is open to bonafide hairstylists and colourists working in Canada and is completely free to enter!

Lift O

Achieve up to nine levels of lift with less breakage with Matrix’s High Riser Pre-Bonded Lightener.

Formulated with citric acid, glycine and the brand’s highest concentration of bonder, the High Riser Pre-Bonded Lightener helps provide both a quick initial lift and a controlled remaining lift for faster lightening and clean results. Helping protect bonds to keep the hair fibres strong with 79 per cent less breakage, it’s ideal for all hair textures and patterns (including natural or colour-treated) and can help you take even the darkest of bases to platinum in just one service.

Twice as Nice

Nourish hair from roots to ends with Kerasilk’s new Exfoliating Scalp Pre-Wash and Curl Balm.

After a summer of sun exposure, heat styling and other hair damage, hit the reset button with Kerasilk’s latest line extensions. The Exfoliating Scalp Pre-Wash is designed for all hair types and is infused with biomimetic silk, ectoin and jojoba beads to gently cleanse the scalp to remove excess oil, sebum, product buildup and dead skin cells.

Kerasilk’s Curl Balm is enriched with biomimetic silk and carnauba wax to help moisturize and define curls while reducing frizz by up to 96 per cent. Plus, it provides 72 hours of humidity protection for bouncier, longer-lasting results.

TO ENTER: Download our o cial Contessa 2024 overlay, which can be found on our website. Post your photo on Instagram using the hashtags #ContessaFreestyle2024 and #ContessaAwards in your caption to enter.

Hurry! The entry deadline is September 6, 2023, so don’t miss out on your chance to win!

Reminder: Freestyle entries cannot be entered into any other Contessa category. Photos that were previously entered into the Contessa Awards are not permitted.

The Contessa Freestyle finalists (and winner) are determined by public vote, which means that YOU can have a say in who takes home the title! Cast your votes online between October 2nd to 16th for a chance to win two tickets to the Contessa Awards gala in Toronto on Sunday, November 12, 2023! For more information, visit SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa.

TO STAY UPDATED ON ALL CONTESSA ANNOUNCEMENTS (AND BE THE FIRST TO RECEIVE THE SEMI-FINALISTS LIST), SCAN THE BARCODE BELOW TO SIGN UP FOR OUR WEEKLY NEWSLETTER:

PHOTO: OLAPLEX, MATRIX, KERASILK

OWN THE NIGHT

OWN THE LOOK

PENETRAITT

OVERNIGHT REPAIRING SERUM WITH HYALURONIC ACID

Making a Splash

Be part of history at Moroccanoil’s first-ever The Collective!

Get ready for the ultimate education experience as Moroccanoil hosts its first-ever The Collective in Las Vegas from September 10th to 12th. Held at Resorts World Las Vegas, the three-day education event will bring together hairstylists and colourists from all over the globe for a jampacked schedule filled with artistic and business sessions, presentations, celebrations and more. The lineup includes classes and seminars on a wide range of topics such as textured hair, blonding, razor cutting, bridal and more, each led by the brand’s artists and ambassadors including Greg Gilmore, Jessica Scott Santo, Canada’s own Lisa Dinh and others. Plus, the event will feature Moroccanoil’s Global Hair Competition, where finalists will present their collections on stage for an opportunity to win cash prizes, education vouchers and more, as well as the chance to work with the brand’s backstage team at the 2024 Eurovision Song Contest.

Elevate Your Blonde

Achieve light and radiant blonde results with Evo’s Fabuloso Platinum Blonde Toning Mist. The newest addition to the brand’s Platinum Blonde range, this new super-lightweight leave-in spray is designed to gently tone and maintain the brightness of blonde, grey or lightened hair. Its ultra-fine mist effortlessly detangles, moisturizes and adds a touch of shine while protecting against UV and heat damage.

GOING FOR GOLD

The Canadian winners and finalists for the 2023 Global Creative Awards!

Kao Salon Division’s annual photo-based competition has named its 2023 gold, silver and bronze national winners for its technical categories (Creative Colorist, New Talent Colorist and Creative Haircutter) and the finalists in its creative categories (Avant Garde, Editorial Colorist, Men’s Hairstylist and Salon Team).

The global winners will be announced at the Kao Salon Global Experience, which will be held on September 24th in Chicago, where the gold winners from each participating country will be competing in a live competition.

Congratulations to all and best of luck!

New Talent Colorist of the Year

Gold: Samantha Dixon, INdustry Hair & Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont.

Silver: Mary Armstrong, Prism Hair Company, St. Catharines, Ont.

Bronze: Sydney Cuschieri, INdustry Hair and Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont.

FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT MOROCCANOILPROFESSIONALS.COM

Dream On ➣

Help clients rejuvenate their hair as they sleep with Sebastian Professional’s Penetraitt Overnight Repairing Serum.

Featuring a lightweight, no-rinse formula, this eighthour serum helps restore clients’ hair overnight for smoother strands that are more manageable and ready to style. It’s formulated with skincare-inspired ingredients including hyaluronic acid, which acts like a sponge to enable hair to hold moisture while creating a barrier around the cuticle for moisturization and plumpness. Niacinamide is also included to help increase body, sheen and suppleness.

Creative Colorist of the Year

Gold Winner: Tina Casciato, Renaissance Salon and Estetica, St. Catharines, Ont.

Silver: Chelsea Dogan, Salon Cyan, London, Ont.

Bronze: David Vendittelli, INdustry Hair & Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont.

Creative Haircutter of the Year

Gold Winner: Marilyn Vendittelli, INdustry Hair & Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont.

Silver: James Valiant, Sukis, Vancouver, B.C.

Bronze: Denise Meikle, Salon Origins Vancouver, B.C.

Finalists: Editorial Colorist

Mary Armstrong, Prism Hair Company, St. Catharines, Ont.

Men’s Hairstylist

Marilyn Vendittelli, INdustry Hair & Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont.

Salon Team

INdustry Hair & Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont.

Renaissance Salon and Estetica, St. Catharines, Ont. Salon Cyan, London, Ont. Sukis, Vancouver, B.C.

PHOTO: MOROCCANOIL, EVO, KAO, SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL

ODORLESS SCULPTING LIQUID

DESIGN. TRANSFORM. ENHANCE. CND™ Odorless Sculpting Liquid minimizes the odors associated with traditional acrylics for a more pleasant salon experience.

Highly adaptable sculpting liquid perfect for Nail Pro’s of all experience levels. No EMA or MMA odor. Superior workability. Easy to control product and placement.

Bio Sculpture

Get your clients ready for hayrides and Halloween with Golden Hour, a deep brown-yellow shade from the African Sunset Collection.

Runway Ready

We’ve rounded up some show-stopping nail looks from autumn/winter Fashion Weeks to inspire you (and your clients) this season.

1 Nail artist Juan Alvear used CND products to create an edgy look for The Blonds show at New York Fashion Week (NYFW), featuring long, black, coffin-shaped nails embellished with crystals.

2 Also for The Blonds NYFW show, Alvear stuck with the coffin shape but elevated it with a two-toned pink look with transparent tips.

3 For the Patricia Bonaldi show at NYFW, celebrity nail artist Gina Edwards created a classic French manicure with a pop of deep burgundy that’s perfect for fall.

SPOTLIGHT

Next-Level Nails

4 Celebrity manicurist Marietta Mack created a whimsical look for the Tia Adeola at NYFW with transparent coffin-shaped tips adorned with pearls and blue gems.

5 Also at the Adeola show, Mack took the pearl embellishments to the next level with an eclectic take on the classic French manicure, featuring extra-long white tips with 3D floral accents.

6 At Vivienne Westwood at Paris Fashion Week, nail artist Mei Kawajiri created a deepgrey look that showcased hand-painted brush strokes.

CND has given its Brisa Gel System a makeover with new-and-improved formulas for Brisa Gel and Brisa Gloss, along with the additions of the all-new Brisa Base Coat and Brisa Glass. The easy-to-use system helps provide strength, shape and length so you can help your clients achieve their dream nail looks!

The new Brisa Base Coat is a light-curing bonding agent that forms a bond to anchor the Sculpting Gel to your client’s natural nails. It’s recommended as the first step in the new Brisa system since it provides a strong adhesion, is easily applied and comes in a thick formula. Brisa Glass is a hard sculpting gel for enhancements that o ers the same benefits as Brisa Gel except for its crystal-clear clarity.

CND is also introducing Odorless Sculpting Liquid, which has been added to the brand’s Liquid and Powder System. Formulated to help create strong enhancements while providing a balance of adhesion and flexibility, the liquid is ideal for lift-prone clients, is EMA- and MMA odour-free and is used with the brand’s Perfect Color Powders.

OPI

Inspired by astrology, the Big Zodiac Energy Collection features #Virgoals, a bronze-pearl shade that’s perfect for those who are celebrating a birthday this season.

CND

Complement your clients’ fall fashion choices with Silky Sienna, a pumpkin-orange shade from the Upcycle Chic collection.

Gelish

With crisp fall days ahead, cozy up with Golden Hour Glow, a goldenyellow pearl shade from The Change of Pace Collection.

Artistic Nail Design

Help your clients embrace their wanderlust with Wander with Me, a yellow mustard shade from the Away We Go collection.

FROM SOFT PASTELS AND NUDE TONES TO RICH, DECADENT SHADES, SOLID NAIL COLOURS ARE HAVING A MOMENT. GET EXPERT TIPS ON HOW TO ELEVATE YOUR SERVICES TO HELP KEEP YOUR CLIENTS’ MANICURES GOING STRONG ALL SEASON.

Less is More

From celebrities to influencers, there’s been a steady influx of solid nail colours as the “quiet luxury” trend continues to dominate with shades like ballet pinks and nudes to white and blueberry milk nails seen on celebrities such as Sofia Richie Grainge, Dua Lipa and Sabrina Carpenter. Naturally, these effortless looks can be challenging for nail artists and techs who are looking to boost and maintain business while continuing to be creative in the salon.

PRO TIP CAPTIVATE YOUR CLIENTS FROM THE MOMENT THEY ENTER YOUR SPACE WITH AN ENTICING DISPLAY OF TRENDING POLISH COLOURS THAT ARE ARRANGED IN A WELL-ORGANIZED ARRAY OF SHADES.

“The reality is that people who are into solidcoloured manicures versus nail art are very different,” says Tamara Di Lullo, a CND education ambassador and owner of Candy Nail Bar in Montreal. “These colours are nothing new, so the question is how to customize and tailor these trends to your clientele.”

Rock-Solid Business

Since some clients believe they can only find the trendiest nail shades from traditional nail lacquers, it’s crucial for nail artists and techs to educate their clients about the differences in products and services.

“Gels are a majority of my services,” says Chelsea Baart, an OPI global artist and educator based in Victoria, B.C. “They can help build business, regardless of trends.”

In addition to the fact that gel polishes last

longer, they can help increase your service ticket, which is win-win for both you and your client.

“There’s a variety of looks that can be created with gels,” says Baart. “The fact that they can be worn on top of natural nails and enhancements, colours and topcoats means that you can use gels to upsell to each and every client.”

While nail art has often been a go-to for artists and techs to upsell, for solid nail colours Di Lullo says it comes down to building loyalty with your clients. “Once there’s regrowth, those clients will be the first to come back on time and rebook their appointment in advance. They usually have a shorter interval between the timing of their appointments—every two to three weeks— because they don’t want to see that regrowth on their hands.”

To help encourage clients to step outside their comfort zones, Di Lullo suggests giving them a proper consultation instead of simply asking them to choose a colour they’re interested in. “I ask clients what they’re into and if there’s a special event that they’re going to,” she says. “Everybody has a colour that they gravitate to, but I also try to get clients to think a little bit outside the box.”

Getting Creative

From a creative standpoint, it can sometimes be a bit of a letdown when a client opts for a solid colour. However, this is an opportunity for nail artists and techs to use their expertise to take a solid shade to the next level while still giving clients what they’re looking for.

“My all-time favourite way to zhuzh up a solid colour is to add a small metallic shade, either as a micro-French or cuff at the cuticle line,” says Baart.

“Creating 3D effects on top of your topcoat adds interest and that’s something we’re seeing a lot,” adds Di Lullo. “Also, adding texture or a bit of sparkle onto solid colours. You can incorporate it into your gel polish or add it to the tacky layer when curing. These are all things we can do to help nails really pop.”

“PEOPLE WHO LIKE SOLIDCOLOURED MANICURES ARE THE TYPE OF CLIENTS WHO WILL COME BACK REPETITIVELY.”

— TAMARA DI LULLO, CND EDUCATION AMBASSADOR AND OWNER OF CANDY NAIL BAR, MONTREAL

Fall Forecast

TAKE A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD AS WE RECAP SOME OF THE BEST HAIRSTYLES FROM FALL/WINTER 2023 FASHION WEEKS. PLUS, GET THE SCOOP ON THE PRODUCTS AND TOOLS YOU’LL NEED TO RECREATE THE LOOKS.

High Volume

Oribe Maximista Thickening Spray

For their show-stopping collection at New York Fashion Week (NYFW), The Blonds worked with Oribe lead stylist, Kien Hoang. Garnering inspiration from ’50s and ’60s couture with extra volume and retro influences, Hoang used Oribe’s Maximista Thickening Spray to prep hair for maximum lift.

Wet Look

Dyson Corrale Hair Straightener

At the Altuzarra show at NYFW, Dyson global ambassador Jawara took the wet look to the next level by creating two glossy styles: a side-part wet look and a flat twist.

To achieve the first, he drenched the hair with a combination of water, sea salt spray and thickening mousse. Then, he combed it with a paddle brush before creating finger waves and using the Dyson Corrale Hair Straightener to create loose waves and texture through the ends.

Sleek and Strong

Wella Professionals Ultimate Repair Hair Serum

With the trend of slicked-back hair still going strong, celebrity hairstylist Guido Palau worked with Wella Professionals to create the sleek and straight styles for KHAITE at NYFW. The looks made a powerful statement when paired with the fashion designer’s strong, feminine collection. Palau used the new Wella Professionals Ultimate Repair Miracle Hair Rescue treatment, which helps tame flyaways while also repairing damage.

E ortless Party Girl Texture

Redken Quick Blowout Spray

For those who adore the Y2K era, Redken global artist Richard Kavanagh perfectly encapsulated the essence of the early 2000s at Australian Fashion Week for the Michael Lo Sordo show. The goal was to create a low maintenance yet alluring look that’s reminiscent of Kate Moss and her effortlessly cool vibe. Kavanagh used Redken’s Quick Blowout Spray and a round brush to achieve the desired effect, adding subtle bends with a large curling iron to perfect the texture with subtle volume and shape.

Poised Pony

ghd Duet Styler 2-in-1 Hot Air Styler

At Paris Fashion Week, hairstylist Anthony Turner and his team crafted a sleek and chic ponytail for the Victoria Beckham show. Beckham aimed to create a sense of effortless elegance that harmonized flawlessly with her collection’s proportions, so Turner and his team sought a hairstyle that would resonate with the everyday person. With this in mind, they crafted a low pony using the ghd Duet Styler 2-in-1 Hot Air Styler, which works on wet and dry hair to smooth strands before flat ironing.

WITH THE ONGOING DEMAND FOR UNDERCUTS AND DISCONNECTED STYLES, BRUSH UP ON YOUR HAIRCUTTING SKILLS WITH SOME EXPERT TIPS AND TRICKS FOR ADDING DISCONNECTION TO HAIRCUTS FOR A WIDE RANGE OF CLIENTELE.

The Art of Disconnection

While ’90s vibes have certainly made their way into several of the latest hair trends, undercuts and disconnected haircuts are yet another example of how nostalgia has played a big role in their increasing popularity.

From models at fashion weeks around the world to celebrities on red carpets to influencers on social media, more and more clients are requesting these cuttingedge looks in the salon.

According to Dani Niven, a STMNT Grooming Goods educator, short hair specialist and owner of Rebel X in Calgary, Alta., there’s been a shift this season from long, feminine hair to bowl cuts and shaggy mullets, which have been pushing traditional boundaries and encouraging clients to embrace their individuality.

“I’ve had so many people come to me and cut off all their hair just to feel more themselves and more at home in their own bodies,” she says. “I’m loving bowl cuts. They can be very bold, disconnected haircuts. I like the blunt ones a lot because the lines are just so drastic, especially with a heavy fringe.”

While the shag, wolf cut and modern mullet were huge trends last year, we’re continuing to see variations of them now with an emphasis on adding texture (layers) and disconnection to haircuts. For shorter hair, textured crops are another trend this season.

“We’re seeing a lot of heavy, short textures using either point cutting or razor cutting,” says Joseph Anthony Iannicello, an American Crew educator and owner of In the Chair Hair Studio

in Windsor, Ont. “From there, people are creating their own twist on it with different hairlines, whether it’s a wispy fringe or a detailed lineup in the front.”

Making the Cut

When it comes to perfecting a disconnected style like an undercut, Niven says it’s important not to go above and beyond the shape (or “walls”) of the head or the parietal ridge.

“If you’re doing an undercut in the back, you don’t want to go above the occipital bone,” she says. “Just do your best to complement the head shape when thinking about giving somebody an undercut or just a side shave—anything like that. There are very tasteful ways to do it that will make your undercut stand out compared to someone who just

sections off a chunk from the side and shaves it right up.”

Since adding any sort of disconnection to your haircuts is very technical, Iannicello says it’s important to begin by fully saturating a client’s hair before sectioning.

“The sections can vary depending on what style haircut you’re doing,” he says. “Anything from vertical sections to horseshoe sections to cross-graduation sections. There’s a whole bunch of different sections you can do, but that’s the main part in organizing yourself to accomplish the haircut you’re going for.

Go With the Flow

Although it’s all about using the right technique and tools, Niven says it’s also important to pay attention to the patterns of the hair.

“When you’re adding a little bit of a disconnection somewhere, you really need to understand how the hair is going to lay,” she says. “For example, if you want to do a mullet where it’s very disconnected on the side but you want to have it hang down nicely without poofing out, you might have to bring the clippers up a little higher so it can lay nicely. It’s just about examining your client’s hair, the pattern, the way it flows naturally and working with that.”

While a thorough consultation is key to any haircut, Iannicello says that

communication is even more crucial when adding disconnection to haircuts to ensure hairstylists and their clients have a mutual understanding.

“Always listen to your clients and communicate clearly,” he says. “That way, you can ensure they’re satisfied with what you did and what you’re currently doing, so you’re both on the same page.”

Think Outside the Box

While some hairstylists may still find themselves bound by the limits of traditional haircutting norms, Niven says that now is the time to push through those boundaries.

“Once you have a good knowledge base, you can understand how to create your own version of that,” she says. “You’ll understand how to break rules more if you know the initial foundations.”

While disconnection can help add

PRO TIP

WHILE CUTTING THE HAIR ONCE IT’S DRY CAN HELP YOU REFINE THE SHAPE AND DISCONNECTION, IT’S IMPORTANT TO WORK WITH FRESHLY WASHED HAIR TO GET A FEEL FOR ITS PATTERNS AND HOW IT NATURALLY LAYS.

customization to your clients’ cuts, Iannicello says it can also help bring business back into the salon.

“When you’re creating haircuts that are not symmetrical, they don’t grow out as uniform and symmetrical, which results in the client coming back more often to maintain the shape that they have for that hairstyle,” he says. “So, two, three or four weeks go by and that hairstyle is slowly growing out. They’re losing that shape and the disconnection that we achieved with their haircut. So, they’re kind of forced to come back sooner or let it grow out naturally.”

“When it grows out, it’s not going to have the same effect,” adds Niven. “For example, it’s going to push out the hair that’s laying over top of it. Let your client know that they’re going to have to come back every two weeks or so to get their disconnection touched up, which in turn, generates extra money in your pocket.”

“With hair nowadays, there are just less and less boundaries or boxes that people are in. Clients can be whoever they want to be and have haircuts that make them feel more like themselves.”

— DANI NIVEN, STMNT GROOMING GOODS EDUCATOR, SHORT HAIR SPECIALIST AND OWNER OF REBEL X, CALGARY, ALTA.

Cleaner

Canvas

Painting and foiling can be a messy and time-consuming process. We gathered some expert tips and tricks on how to refine your techniques to help save time while simplifying and elevating your lightening and colour services.

BY LAUREN FARRUGIA

From highlights and babylights to balayage and blonding, foiling and painting are critical to the results many of your clients are looking for. Whether you’re a seasoned hair colourist or you’re just starting out, there are so many tips and techniques that can not only help you in your lightening and colour process, but can also increase your efficiency behind the chair.

“I know stylists who are amazing with hair painting but have a difficult time with foiling,” says Karine Bélanger, a Montreal-based salon owner and Matrix educator. “And I know others who are great with foiling but don’t know how to hair paint. The results and techniques are different, as is the way each stylist works, but it’s important to know how to master both. Not only will it enable you

to offer your clients more, but you can also let your imagination take over and create the looks that you want to create.”

Cue the Consultation

As simple as it may sound, asking the

right questions during the consultation can really help you determine the right course of action when it comes to your foiling and painting techniques.

“Before I start anything, I need to know where the client parts their hair,”

says Lisa Dinh, owner of Lisa Dinh Hair Studio in Toronto and a global colour ambassador for Moroccanoil. “This is a big indicator of what foiling placement or hair colouring technique I’m going to use. I also like to ask about lifestyle because I want to know what level of maintenance my client is looking for. I want to make sure they’re aware of what’s required from them and see if they’re willing to come in as often as required. Those two factors will help me decide what placement and techniques to use.”

“During the consultation, I ask my clients how they normally style their hair and what they currently love about their hair because it gives me the opportunity to ask if the change they’re looking for is big or subtle,” says Heather Hall, a Vancouver-based stylist and portfolio colourist for L’Oréal Professionnel. “Then, I have to decide and let the client know if the change is something I can deliver. I really try to build that clear roadmap with my clients so they can know what to expect.”

Foiling Failures

Before trying new foiling techniques, it’s important to understand why (and how) some of the most common mistakes, such as swelling, slipping, lines of demarcation and bleeding, can happen.

“Oftentimes when we foil, we can experience some unwanted results,” says Eva Chamberland, a Quebecbased colourist and Pravana educator. “Leaking can happen due to product buildup or overheating, so I always have a separate bowl beside me. If the lightener leaks, I’ll add demi colour to that area.”

“Lines of demarcation can also occur,” she adds. “So, after I’ve finished the lightening process, I’ll use a demi colour at the roots and use it to do a root tap, which can help eliminate the lines.”

To help prevent demarcation altogether, it’s all in the planning and sectioning, says Josie Vilay, owner of

Hairology in Winnipeg and a member of Schwarzkopf Professional’s digital artist team. “My advice for avoiding things like bleeding and lines of demarcation is to take thin sections,” she says. “When you take thick sections, you end up overdirecting the hair, which can cause

PRO TIP

DINH SAYS SHE PREFERS TO SANDWICH THE FOILS TOGETHER INSTEAD OF FOLDING THEM. THIS ALLOWS HER TO ACHIEVE CLEAN SECTIONS AND HELPS SAVE TIME BECAUSE SHE DOESN’T HAVE TO FOLD EVERY FOIL SHE PLACES.

the foil to droop down and lead to things like bleeding or lines of demarcation. Taking thin sections can help you avoid those issues.”

Going back to the basics of foiling can also help you avoid any unwanted results. Clean sections and even saturation are two ways to ensure mistakes are prevented. In addition, using a scale when measuring product and making sure your product is mixed properly are key steps that shouldn’t be overlooked.

“CLEANLINESS, SATURATION AND SECTIONING ARE SO IMPORTANT.

THESE THINGS ARE GOING TO MAKE YOUR FOILING FASTER AND HELP YOU BE MORE EFFICIENT BECAUSE YOU DON’T HAVE TO GO BACK AND FIX MISTAKES.”

— JOSIE VILAY, OWNER OF HAIROLOGY, WINNIPEG

Peachy Placement

Earlier this year, Josie Vilay went to Germany to create her own look—The Peach Balayage—for Schwarzkopf Professional’s 2023 Essential Looks Spring/ Summer Collection. “My goal was to keep the hairline bright because it was the most flattering on the face. I then took diagonal panels in the back of the hair and alternated between di erent BLONDME toners [including Ice, Sand, and Peach Sorbet] to give the look dimension,” she says. “I use this diagonal panel technique often for clients who are looking for a lot of dimension. It’s also a great technique for clients who love the big blowout look because it helps add lightness and depth. The colours lay on top of each other and it creates a nice pop.”

Foiling with Finesse

Whether you prefer to start at the nape of the neck versus the hairline or you’re looking to achieve a lived-in look, there are many different techniques that can simplify and improve your skills.

“When I’m doing foils, I always ask if the client is looking for a softer,

dimensional highlight or if they want a highlight that looks like it grew from the scalp,” says Hall. “If they want a softer look, I like to feather the lightener in the first eighth of an inch of the top of the foil, and if they want a highlight that looks like it grew out of the scalp, I like to push the lightener ever so slightly

PRO

with my brush, as if I was shimmying it up to just before the top of the foil, close to the scalp.”

Vilay says it’s also important to consider the client’s head shape. “If a client has a rounder head, you have to work in thin sections at the back so that the foils don’t slip down,” she

says. “Also, looking at the hair type and texture will determine the width of your sections. When I’m working on a client with thick or curly hair, I have to work in thin sections to ensure I’m getting the best lift possible.”

In today’s market, more and more clients are looking to save money and many don’t want to spend as much time in the salon as they did pre-pandemic. Considering foil placement may help you reduce the amount of time a client spends in the chair while still delivering a high-impact service.

“I’ve been offering what I call an express service,” says Dinh. “I use 15 foils or less and it’s something I’ve been teaching to my team as well as in my classes. It’s a great way to save time while still achieving the client’s desired look.”

“For this service, I always focus the foils on the hairline,” she adds. “You really want to pay attention to the area you can see. I often do three foils under the nape because when the client ties their hair up, this is what you see. I also do three foils around the hairline, specifically around the face, and then I do three on the top of the hair. This way, you’re covering a lot of area without a lot of foils and it’s much more manageable than a full-head service.”

Dinh also says she opts for a weaving method at the top of the head, which allows her to achieve a blended and dimensional look. She switches to a slicing method at the bottom, which provides a bolder pop of colour.

For Bélanger, she prefers to work in triangular sections. “This allows you to

keep deepness where you want it and you can position it depending on how the client’s hair will grow, the density and how you want it to look,” she says. “I also love to keep a small shadow root because if you don’t, when the grow-out starts, it shows so fast and it won’t look blended. If you keep a shadow root— even if it’s small—it will all blend very nicely.”

“I also recommend being careful at the top of the head where clients may have cowlicks,” she adds. “I always check with my hands first by taking sections of hair and putting my hand under it so I can see how the hair falls. This way, I won’t have a spot without highlights. This is a great way to make sure everything is even and balanced.”

Chamberland adds that foil placement is key. “The placement is so important because if you’re adding foils in the right places, you don’t need to use as much of

them,” she says. “Of course, the pattern will differ based on the desired results, but I focus the foils around the face and the nape. It creates a halo section all around. When clients come in for foils, they usually want to be bright in those areas so when they put their hair up, the lightness can be seen. In the middle of the hair, I do a zig-zag pattern so I’m able to get the blend I’m looking for.”

Going Beyond the Brush

Hand-painting can be a great alternative to foiling when you’re looking to achieve specific looks, such as warmer tones and balayage, as it can help you create more dimension or add pops of pastel or fashion colours into blonde shades. It’s also a great option for clients looking to achieve a lower level of lift since there are many techniques and methods to help ensure things go smoothly while avoiding any unwanted results. ➤

“A THOROUGH CONSULTATION IS THE KEY TO UNDERSTANDING WHAT YOUR CLIENT’S NEEDS ARE AND WILL ALLOW YOU TO CHOOSE WHICH TECHNIQUES YOU WANT TO USE TOGETHER.”

— KARINE BÉLANGER, SALON OWNER AND COLOURIST, MONTREAL

PRO TIP

CHAMBERLAND SAYS THAT BACKCOMBING HAIR WHILE FOILING IS NON-NEGOTIABLE SINCE IT HELPS ACHIEVE A FLUID AND GRADUAL BLEND.

“If your sections are too thin, the lightener will go through the section and end up on hair that you don’t want lightener on,” says Bélanger. “To prevent this, it’s important to remember to only fully saturate the ends of the hair. You can also use cotton between your sections just to be sure.”

When it comes to hair painting, Bélanger says she often sees colourists struggling with their lift, which may be attributed to an insufficient amount of product being applied. In these situations, ensuring that you have enough saturation and are using the correct type of lightener (with the right ratio) can help.

“A common mistake I see is stylists mixing the lightener the same way they would if they were foiling,” adds Hall. “The foiling mixture will be a little bit thinner than the painting mixture and they try to paint it on in a balayage pattern, which can allow the lightener to bleed through.”

“When it comes to painting, precision

and a softer hand are key,” says Dinh. “You want to create softness with colour through feathering, and feathering requires you to have soft strokes with the colour. If you’re not using soft strokes and if you don’t have precision with those strokes, you can end up with demarcation. I would also recommend avoiding overpainting because you need pockets of depth for those painted parts to really pop.”

Another thing to keep in mind when it comes to hair painting is that you can use it in the salon to upsell your clients as add-ons to their services.

“When you have a client who wants to have lightness in their hair but you don’t have the time for foils, hand painting is a great option,” says Bélanger. “For example, if I have a client that booked a root touch-up, but she saw and liked a picture on my Instagram of highlights, I can paint some lightener on the surface without using foils. It will be so fast, your client will get what she wants, and you can charge a bit more for it too.”

Foiling Favourites

Helping you lift hair at least 25 per cent faster while eliminating the need to use higher levels of developer (which can damage hair), this eight-inch wide, two-pound roll of foils are the industry’s biggest and widest foils that can be cut to your desired length!

One of the colour trends that’s been taking over social media is the Scandinavian hairline, which is achieved when lightener is applied to the baby hairs on a client’s hairline. While the look is gaining popularity, Vilay cautions that it isn’t right for everyone. “The trend is good for clients that like a bold and bright look in the front of the hair,” she says. “For clients with darker hair, their grow-out won’t be so graceful so it’s a good option for people with a naturally lighter base. I take the baby hairs around the hairline and lighten them with a low developer to avoid any damage, and then I like to incorporate some blonde foils on the hairline too, so it blends everything together.”

With constantly changing trends and ever-evolving techniques, investing in education and pushing yourself to practice whenever you can will help improve your confidence and skill set.

“Of course, you can’t be perfect at everything,” says Bélanger. “As long as you keep practising and stay current on education, you can really improve your technique. The more you do something, the easier it becomes and the faster you get at it because you don’t have that hesitation. Practice makes perfect.”

Framar Star Struck Silver – Pop Up

One of the brand’s bestselling foils, the Star Struck Silver Pop Up foils come with 500 sheets of 5 x 11” pre-cut and pre-folded foils. Best of all, their embossed texture prevents them from slipping!

FastFoils 8’’, 2 lbs Roll

BOOSTING YOUR COLOUR BIZ

Whether it’s blondes looking to embrace their dark sides, brunettes hoping to add some lightness and brightness, or reds looking to enhance and maintain their tones, fall inspires a full gamut of colour services. We checked in with the experts for their tips on maximizing your time and e orts to build business with colour corrections, blonding, root touch-ups and more.

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

As you prepare to be booked and busy for the fall season, now is the time to start thinking about creative ways to make the most of your colour services. And while it may be easy to shift into an old and familiar routine as you try to balance a steady flow of clients, it’s important not to lose sight of the business opportunities that this bustling season presents.

“A lot more people want low-maintenance colour,” says Zeina El-Sherif, a stylist and colour specialist at Curious Salon in Calgary and a field education trainer for Wella Professionals. “Clients are going from solid colours into something more lived-in and blended, so they aren’t coming back into the salon as often, which means we need more clients to make up for them.

Every client has the potential to give you more service dollars, even if it’s not today. Planting seeds for tomorrow gives them something to think about.”

“It’s about thinking of other services you can offer to keep your clients returning every six to eight weeks,” adds Kelly Hallett, a hair colour specialist and national artist for Goldwell who’s based in Kingston, Ont. “Whenever I talk to a client, I’ll ask about the maintenance they’re looking for and the other services in between that are going to grow business while still making the client feel very comfortable.”

PRO TIP MANY EXPERTS RECOMMEND CHARGING HOURLY FOR COLOUR CORRECTIONS TO ENSURE THAT YOUR CLIENT IS PAYING BASED ON YOUR TIME. HOWEVER, IT’S ALSO IMPORTANT TO FACTOR IN THE COSTS OF PRODUCTS USED. CONSIDER PRICING A BIT HIGHER AND IF IT TAKES LESS TIME OR FEWER PRODUCTS ARE USED, A LOWER FEE CAN BE A NICE SURPRISE FOR YOUR CLIENT AT THE END OF THEIR VISIT.

Colour Corrections

While colour corrections are often considered to be timeconsuming and exhaustive processes, they can be huge revenue generators that can build business into the salon across multiple visits.

“What I like about colour corrections is that they get your brain working,” says El-Sherif. “The process is challenging and puts you to the test. There’s so much colour theory and every hairdressing skill comes through, from your communication skills during the consultation to the technical skills in your application.”

“For many, colour corrections are a big challenge, but they often give the most spectacular results if the hairstylist takes the time necessary,” adds Jeannyfer

Bernier, a Joico artist and owner of Blush Le Salon in Chicoutimi, Que. “Of course, magic doesn’t exist so it’s important to inform our clients of the process and the time it can take. When you do this and execute the work with meticulousness, a colour correction client becomes a satisfied customer and, very often, a regular one.”

Although people often equate colour corrections with do-it-yourself box dyes or bad work, corrective colour isn’t always about turning a negative into a positive.

“Any time I work with a client who’s coloured their own hair or even has any kind of permanent colour in there, I always consider it corrective

work,” says Chris Weber Mirlach, co-founder of Vanilla Loft in North Vancouver and an ambassador for Redken. “Especially if we’re trying to get to a different colour or create a different look. However, I think people need to understand that corrective work doesn’t always mean the hair is messed up or a disaster. Even if a client has beautiful highlights and is looking for a totally different colour, it may also require a colour correction.”

While we know that consultations are key to just about every service, they’re even more important for colour corrections as they help you understand your client’s hair history and

expectations. Plus, they can help identify opportunities for additional services.

“You definitely want to use consultations as a chance to build a relationship with the client,” says Weber Mirlach. “I ask them for their last five years of hair history. We also talk about budget because, for me, it’s important to be clear and to know how quickly they want to get somewhere–especially if you have to do a correction over two or three visits to get to the goal colour.”

“You also want to plan ahead,” he adds. “I like to do my initial consultation and then talk about the next year, any goals they have and where they want to be with their colour so it’s not

just a one-time visit.”

While it can be difficult for clients to accept that their hair colour dreams may be further away than they originally had hoped, it’s important to help them enjoy the journey while creating a defined course of action to get them there.

“Some clients are so focused on the end goal, but I always tell them to enjoy the process in between,” says El-Sherif. “They’re going to have a number of different looks and because they’re paying for them all, let’s make it fun. Since the colour can get too warm for some people in between visits, you can definitely ask them to come back in for maintenance toners.”

Blonding

While colour corrections often include blonding, there’s a high demand for adding lightness and brightness to both blondes and brunettes, from bold money pieces to more blended balayages.

“We’ve had a lot of the high contrast looks, but I think now we’re going back to a more of a ’90s vibe with what I call the ‘supermodel blonde,’ which uses very soft, sun-

kissed colours,” says Weber Mirlach. “It’s not super high contrast, but more muted with very warm tones and colours. A lot of clients are also asking for more of a blended money piece or a full head of highlights without too much dark underneath.”

“The trend of the moment for every level of blonde is to create a soft and bright multidimensional colour,” adds Bernier. “Choose a gentle depth effect at the roots as well as a slight sweep inside. The goal is to offer a look that will age well. Sweeping [or hand painting] will always be my favourite technique for glamorous and nuanced results.”

Of course, a client’s hair

condition should be top of mind for all colour services but it’s especially critical with blonding and the use of lighteners. While the level of lift achieved in one visit can vary depending on the client’s starting level, hair history, condition and end goal, it’s better to underpromise and overdeliver.

“You always want to set yourself up for success,” says Hallett. “I always care about the integrity of the hair, so first and foremost, you have to look at the hair type and see what condition it’s in. If it’s not in the right condition, now is not the time to do a colour change. Get the hair condition back first with some treatments and then get the client to where they want to be in the long term. I think by explaining this process to the client—so it’s not about what you’re not doing today but more about what their hair won’t allow and why—and what you’re going to do to help, they’ll understand that you’re dedicated to achieving the result they want.”

“A BLONDING SERVICE DOESN’T ALWAYS MEAN THAT SOMEBODY HAS TO BE A LIGHT BLONDE. FOR BRUNETTES, YOU CAN STRATEGICALLY PLACE FOILS OR LIGHTEN THEM TO A LIGHTER BROWN, WHICH DOESN’T TAKE A LOT OF TIME AND BRINGS IN SERVICE DOLLARS.”

— ZEINA EL-SHERIF, STYLIST AND COLOUR SPECIALIST, CURIOUS SALON, CALGARY

— KELLY HALLETT, HAIR COLOUR SPECIALIST AND NATIONAL ARTIST FOR GOLDWELL, KINGSTON, ONT.

“It’s about not committing to any guaranteed results,” she adds. “It’s going to be a journey and realistically, two to three levels of lift [during one visit] is a guide of where you can go. From there, anything extra is a plus.”

Root Touch-Ups

There’s no denying that root touch-ups are one of the fundamentals that keeps clients coming back to the salon regularly, but with a bit of creativity, you can use this service to transition clients to a new look or routine.

“I’m noticing more clients want to step away from root touch-ups and are embracing more of their grey hair,” says Weber Mirlach. “I’m all about grey blending, which is a big trend right now.”

“Clients don’t want to see that hard line of demarcation anymore,” adds Hallett. “We’re seeing a stretched regrowth that amalgamates into other shades and tones, using the round of the head to create a different shadow root at the hairline. So maybe

at the top portion of the head, you’re at one or one-anda-half inches, and as you’re working down the head, you’re almost extending that root to sometimes four to five inches long. It’s kind of a stretched regrowth so you can have more colour popping in through the top and less at the ends. You can also reverse it so it’s a four-inch shadow regrowth at the top round of the head, followed by some diffused colour into

the mid-lengths and ends. It’s customized and since you’re using the round of the head to create it, it’s seamless placement.”

With the trend of warm tones extending into all hair colours, there’s an opportunity to customize clients’ hair colour to their skin tone and face shape for a more personalized approach. This, in turn, helps build loyalty and boosts client retention.

PRO TIP REGARDLESS OF THE LEVEL OF EXPERIENCE YOU HAVE, A STRAND TEST IS ALWAYS HELPFUL IN DETERMINING NOT ONLY WHAT’S IN YOUR CLIENT’S HAIR, BUT ALSO HOW IT REACTS TO LIGHTENER AND/OR COLOUR. AND WHILE IT REQUIRES A BIT MORE OF YOUR TIME INITIALLY, IT CAN HELP SAVE YOU TIME IN THE LONG RUN.

“I’ve always been a big believer in looking at a client’s face shape and where we’re placing our colour, and determining why we’re placing our colour based on that face shape,” says Hallett. “It’s no different than with makeup and contouring; we can apply those same theories into hair colour. We know that blondes tend to widen, darks are contouring and that reds take emphasis off the face entirely, so face shape is important.”

“IF YOU’RE NOT TAKING THE TIME TO UNDERSTAND WHAT THE CLIENT IS LOOKING FOR, YOU’RE ALREADY MISSING THE MARK.”

CO LLE CTIO NS

September+October

An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level.

Combining chic cuts with masterful colour placement, this Canadian collection is a total knockout.

CONTESSA 2023 FINALIST, CANADIAN COLOURIST Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. MAKEUP Florencia Taylor WARDROBE STYLING Julie Vriesinga PHOTOS Paula Tizzard

This Canadian collection showcases hair colour prowess with exquisite shade combinations that are nothing short of spectacular.

CONTESSA 2023 FINALIST, MASTER COLOURIST Chelsea Sutherland, Chelsea Laine Salon and Colour Bar, New Glasgow, N.S. MAKEUP Armin Wong PHOTOS Denis Duquette

CONTESSA 2023 FINALIST, CANADIAN COLOURIST Ken Hung, Salon Era, Richmond, B.C. MAKEUP Karla Cruz WARDROBE STYLING Marchel Eang PHOTOS Simon Chu

Showcasing a range of colour-blocking techniques, this Canadian collection inspires you to think outside the box.

Inspired by the futuristic works of a Japanese fashion designer, this captivating colour collection by Antoinette Beenders and X-presion Creativos is truly a work of art.

HAIR Antoinette Beenders & Xpresion Creativos for Aveda MAKEUP Lolita Makeup WARDROBE STYLING Belen Antolin PHOTOS Miguel Reveriego

This Spanish collection fuses eclectic influences from ’70s punk and British fashion with modern digital technology and artificial intelligence for a striking range of looks.

HAIR & WARDROBE STYLING Alfredo Valero, Blades Hair Studio, Spain MAKEUP Blades Hair Studio team PHOTOS David Arnal

The Celebration of the Year!

#ContessaAwards #Contessa2024

Danielle Degraaf

While some stylists develop a passion for it later in life, Danielle Degraaf knew she wanted to work with hair at an early age. “Everyone knew I was going to be a hairstylist since I was two years old,” she says. “I was always playing with people’s hair and I always loved to do my parents’ and siblings’ hair. It’s all I’ve ever done and all I’ve really wanted to do.”

Craving Creativity

Degraaf’s recent Canadian Colourist finalist collection wasn’t her first time entering the Contessa Awards. She says that competing allows her to have a creative outlet. “I’ve always followed a lot of editorial hairstylists on social media because that creative side of the industry has always appealed to me,” she says. “I heard about the Contessas through Salon’s Instagram, and I thought that it was within my scope of skills

and it would give me the chance to be creative, which is why I first decided to enter.”

Working in Woodstock, Ont., which has a population of under 50,000, Degraaf says it can be difficult to push the envelope when working behind the chair. “As a hairstylist who works in a small town, I’m doing the same hair every day and I crave a creative outlet,” she adds. “Hair is my creative outlet; I don’t have a lot of other ways that I’m able to express my creativity and since I don’t get a lot of creative control when I’m working with clients, competing is my way to do that.”

Playing with Colour

For her collection, Degraaf was inspired to try something different by creating something that was reminiscent of looks you would see in a fashion magazine.

“I wanted to challenge myself with this collection because it was my fourth year entering,” she says. “I knew I wanted to have a crisp white background and not a lot of distraction in the wardrobe or makeup. I just wanted a collection that was hyper-focused on the hair, and the idea of pairing the simple background with fluorescent colours was kind of obvious to me.”

Basing her first look off her favourite colour, Degraaf’s collection started with the idea of creating an orange-hair look. “I melted colours that sit on one side of the colour wheel,” she says. “I did a mix of a lot of oranges, pinky-oranges and yellow-oranges, and I just created a seamless blend of those colours with pops of yellow throughout.”

Sticking with the colour wheel, she decided to include a green look and focus on using shades that were complementary instead of contrasting, she says. “For the last look, I found inspiration from another stylist named Suzanne Strum. I liked the paintbrush effect of the colours on the blonde bob and I thought it would be a great way to tie the other two looks together.”

Staying Focused

After entering the Contessa Awards for the fourth time, Degraaf says competing has become something she often thinks about and would encourage others to try.

“Competing allows you to view hair in a different way,” she says. “Even when I think about the education I pursue, I look for classes that will benefit me in a collection or a shoot. These classes also translate to the work you do behind the chair because they allow you to think outside the box.”

“If anyone is craving that creative outlet, the Contessas are so obtainable,” she adds. “You can be from the smallest town in the smallest city in Canada and you can become a finalist or a winner,” she says. “Creating collections is also a great way to get really amazing photos of what you can do, and to learn and make connections in the industry.”

“[The Contessas] revamp your excitement for hair and what you do every day behind the chair.”

Making Amends

From corrections gone wrong to unsatisfying results, most beauty pros have encountered a scenario in which a client is unhappy with their colour service. We checked in with two experts for tips on handling these uncomfortable yet inevitable situations.

As many hairstylists and colourists can attest, colour corrections can be a double-edged sword. While they can lead to incredible transformations, more complex corrections often require more than one visit and can sometimes result in unsatisfied clients.

“One of the biggest mistakes is to take [the client’s dissatisfaction] personally and try to avoid the situation or put the mistake on them, the product or some other reason,” says Myriam Lajoie, co-owner of Uma Beauté in Montreal and a technical advisor for Oligo Professionnel. “I’ve heard all sorts of excuses and find it sad when I meet new clients who share the reason that was given to them when trying to have their colour fixed.”

Be Transparent

While communication and honesty are important in every service, they’re especially critical when it comes to helping a client understand the colour process.

“One of the biggest complaints is that the hairstylist didn’t achieve the client’s hair goal,” says Lajoie. “Understanding what a client wants is not always easy,

and often, we’re not speaking the same language when it comes to colours and techniques.”

Anthony Zaccaria, a Toronto-based hairstylist and brand educator for Kenra Professional, says one of the reasons clients may have unrealistic expectations is because they turn to the wrong places for inspiration.

“They look at YouTube and social media to find the exact colour they want, but each client has different undertones,” he says. “Sometimes, it takes a lot of repair. It’s often not a one-time shot.”

It can be incredibly difficult (and frustrating) when clients see a new hair

colour on their favourite celebrity and can’t understand why they can’t achieve the same look. In order for clients to be on the same page as the hairstylist, it’s important to communicate effectively and discuss a realistic plan of action.

“You have to make sure they know that their undertones [may prevent them from achieving the colour they want right away],” he says, adding that for some clients, the entire process could take four or five sessions. “To get to that colour or step, explain what you need to do to get them there and what it’s going to cost. You’ll know [based on their reaction] if they’re ready.”

MAZZUCCO, PHOTO: ABOBE STOCK

Show Appreciation

When a client decides to proceed with a costly and time-consuming colour correction, it’s important to show that you value their business.

“You can’t just step away from the client and say, ‘OK, I’ll be gone for 20 minutes,’” says Zaccaria. “You’re concentrating strictly on that one client. Colour corrections could start at $300 to $1,500 (or more), depending on the colour itself and what you do without jeopardizing the integrity of the hair.”

“Some hairstylists may just turn

around and lighten the hair right away and then put a colour on,” he adds. “That may seem like an easy fix, but depending on the client’s hair, it can create more damage.” In addition, some clients may not be dissatisfied with colour results but with the salon experience itself. With the increasing costs of products and services, it’s creating more competition for salons and emphasizes the importance of client retention.

“Depending on the client, I don’t think they leave the salon because of pricing,” says Zaccaria. “It’s how you treat them. I have clients who have been with me for well over 30 years. Some of them could decide to leave for financial reasons, but when you get close to the client, you can find out where their pocketbook is. So, instead of asking them to come back every four weeks, you can suggest every six weeks, which saves them money.”

Be Proactive

With the rise of social media and “cancel” culture, properly addressing the concerns of unsatisfied clients is more important than ever. Instead of being defensive or reactive, take the time to reach out to your client directly, listen to their concerns and find a happy compromise.

“Be careful when it comes to haters on social media,” says Lajoie. “Some people will try to make you drown for a little mistake. I think the best thing you can do if someone tries to expose you on their social media or if they leave a bad review on yours, is to calm the situation by asking them to reach out to you directly so you can find a solution to the problem.”

“Do not argue with them and don’t feed the drama,” she adds. “Be respectful and professional. People will see by themselves that you’re willing to help and be part of the solution. You will not lose your clientele or new clients for one bad review. How you handle or react to it will say more about you and your business than the actual review.”

“AN UNSATISFIED CLIENT DOESN’T MAKE YOU A BAD HAIRSTYLIST; WE’RE ALL HUMANS WITH DIFFERENT EYES AND DIFFERENT TASTES. MAKE THE CORRECTION YOU NEED TO, BE PROUD OF YOURSELF AND KEEP GOING.”

—MYRIAM LAJOIE, CO-OWNER OF UMA BEAUTÉ, MONTREAL

Paying It Forward

While he’s now educating and teaching the next generation of talent, barber-turned-hairstylist Ricardo Santiago looks back on how he discovered his passion for the industry through assisting and apprenticing, and shares why he’s so focused on learning throughout his career.

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

I understand that you started in the industry as a barber before you decided to pursue hair school. What motivated you to add hairstyling to your repertoire?

When I first started barbering, I was in high school and did it more for fun. I continued it through college and when I was in the army. My brother was also a barber, so we started barbering together. It wasn’t until after I completed my service with the army that he told me he wanted to get his [hairstyling] license. So, we went to cosmetology school and barber school together.

I remember one of my teachers telling me that I needed to be doing women’s hair. I disagreed at first but she was insistent. Once I got a taste for it, I went to a beautiful salon in downtown Sarasota, which is where I grew up, and the owner was looking for an assistant. I was interviewed on the spot and started working there the next week. The salon was full of stylists who were also educators. When I saw that and the obvious potential for earning more income than in a barbershop, I immediately knew that this was my field. With hair colour, there’s so much more involved with science, chemistry and colour theory. Being more of an academic, those things were very enticing to me and they helped my passion grow and evolve.

How did your experience assisting in a salon help you in your career path?

Genuinely, I think that if I didn’t start at that salon and in that capacity, I don’t think I would be where I am. Or even

still doing this in the capacity that I am because I learned so much in such a short period of time. I was still in hair school when I worked there, which was for about six months. Six months after that, I continued assisting and apprenticing with my license until I felt comfortable enough to start taking on clients. I appreciated the opportunity to work under so many talented stylists and have them all impart their knowledge to me.

When it came to my experience in the salon with the owner, Richard Day, I remember being inspired by his emphasis on education, self-worth and value. It completely changed my viewpoint and since then, whenever I have someone who’s getting started or just coming out of school, I suggest they go assist and do an apprenticeship where they can build up those skills behind the chair while working with someone who’s willing to share their knowledge. You need mentorship to help develop your skills.

In addition to hairstyling, you also do hair colour. Why was it important to you to become a well-rounded stylist who can offer both?

Being able to provide a variety of services has allowed me to care for clients from all different areas. Whether it’s in blonding, reds or as a cutting specialist, being able to not have to put myself in a box has opened more doors.

As far as my growth, something that’s been really important has been having the support of my wife. Between her help on the service side of things, as

well in creating and building our social media, I’ve been able to showcase a variety of skill sets. Whether someone wants a fun rainbow colour, perfect platinum or a sleek bob, my wife’s help has made it so I usually stay, on average, at least four to six months booked out. We also have a good two- to three-page waitlist of people for cancellations.

In terms of colour trends, it seems that we’ve been seeing a bit of a departure from some of those highermaintenance colours lately. Would you agree? What other trends have you been noticing?

Yes, 100 per cent. I think that was another big thing that came out of the pandemic. People had to go so long without getting their hair done and they realized they don’t need it as often as they thought. It caused a transition into a lower-maintenance lifestyle that I don’t think is going anywhere. Of course, your platinum and grey-coverage clients are always going to be your highermaintenance clients. But they still tend to have a rooted grow out, highlights and babylights, so those aren’t going anywhere anytime soon. We’re also seeing people embrace warmer tones.

Since low-maintenance styles are here to stay, I think that’s something we should embrace, too. I charge more for them because if clients are coming in less frequently and I’m giving them something that’s going to last for a while, it’s going to cost more. You have to put in the effort and it takes some work to do it. Some stylists have pushed back because they think they’ll lose money. If you’re charging more and working less while making just as much or more than before by spacing your clients to open more slots for new ones, they’re paying more than what they were when you were doing high-maintenance colour every four to six weeks. That means you’re working smarter, not harder.

PHOTOS: JOICO, RICARDO SANTIAGO

Are there any words of wisdom or advice you’ve carried with you along the way?

There are two big things, one of which I got from [the salon I assisted at] and the other I kind of learned myself along the way.

The first one is that education is so important; it’s the key to your success and it’s never-ending. Seeing Richard Day, who was in his 70s, bring me into the salon and want to take classes with me highlighted how important constant learning opportunities are.

The second is something I learned from having a background in business and knowing how important service is. I think, especially over recent years, we’ve seen a shift through social media where a lot of people are using it to post their negative reactions and feedback from

going to a salon. A lot of that could be avoided if they had a great service experience, even if their result didn’t meet their expectations. If the service is there, they’re much more willing to not put that salon on blast. One of my favourite quotes is from Dwayne Johnson, “It’s nice to be important, but it’s more important to be nice.” I always share that with my young stylists and remind them that if you take care of your clients, they’ll take care of you.

I think people forget that you can be a business owner but still be a person and have that connection with your clients as well. They’re more likely to refer you 1,000 times over when they have that versus if they just have good hair. You can go to most places and get good hair, but you can’t always get the service and experience with it.

You’ve been working with Joico as their global education expert. Tell us about that and what you most enjoy about working with them.

The number one thing is the people. I love everyone that I work with and it feels like we’re family. With my military background, everything is very teamoriented and camaraderie is huge. Whether I’m in the U.S. or Canada or wherever they send me, I know that the people I’m going to be surrounded by are always quality people who are very talented. They’re very supportive of their team and artists. They put education and stylists first. When the pandemic hit, we were one of the first ones to jump on digital and throw everything into it to make sure that everyone had a resource for education while they weren’t able to work. It was an approach that I really admired.

What’s next for you? Anything you’re working on that you can share with us?

I’ve been working on coming up with my own course curriculums that focus specifically on the fundamentals because I feel like we’ve seen a lot of people working on these really cool techniques with trends that are a little bit more elaborate. But what I think gets overlooked and missed is that there are a lot of stylists who also want to learn how to master them. There are a lot of steps along the way and skills that need to be built before successful execution, so my whole thing is to take it back to the beginning and make sure people can really nail those foundational things.

Picture Perfect

BY LAUREN FARRUGIA

For Quebec-based hairstylist Kevins-Kyle Lambert, building his dream salon, Studios Kevins Kyle, allowed him to combine his two loves: hair and construction. “When I was 18 years old, I was working in construction and we were doing a job for a barbershop,” he says. “I was watching the clients coming out of the shop with amazing hair and I was watching the stylists who looked so cool and I couldn’t stop thinking about it. I decided to take my chances and go to school for hair and from there things just started to move very fast for me.”

Taking the Leap

From working in a salon and doing hair in his house to hiring an assistant and growing a full team of stylists, Lambert knew it was the perfect time to build his dream space.

“The lease of our previous location was ending and I knew I wanted to buy the next space because I thought it would be a safer investment,” he says. “We started construction during COVID and it was a scary time because everything was closed, but I knew that I wanted to do it. When you’re sure about something and

passionate about it you need to push through it.”

Trust Yourself

Lambert says he originally planned on working closely with a designer, but finding one who understood his wants, needs and his vision proved to be difficult.

Instead, he opted to work with his husband to create the plan, build the salon and even choose the decor.

“I’m a hairstylist and an artist, and my husband is so good at decor, so we’re really proud of what we created,” he says. “Some designers don’t know what we need

Take a look inside this Quebec-based salon that offers its guests a luxurious and comfortable experience.

as hairstylists. I wanted a luxury hair salon and I knew people would be paying good money, so I wanted to create a beautiful and fancy space, but also a functional and comfortable space, for my staff, clients and myself.”

“I was there every day,” he adds. “That was the

most difficult part [about the designing process]. I was managing my staff, doing clients and working on the renovation, so at one point I had to tell my clients that I couldn’t do their hair anymore. I told my employees that they wouldn’t have a boss for a

while because I had to forget about the present and focus on the future in order for us to have a future. My team is so important to me and I felt like I owed it to them to create the perfect salon. My clients understood because they were in good hands and it really was a lot of teamwork.”

Dream Design

Inspired by his family’s trips to Greece and his love for Las Vegas, Lambert wanted to create a salon that combined both aesthetics.

“I was in Greece and was so inspired and in love with how everything was designed,” he says. “The space was originally supposed to be more colourful, but I changed my mind and wanted to add more textures than colours, and I decided to mix soft pinks, greens and neutral

DETAILS

Opened in 2022

SIZE

2,500 square feet

TEAM

13

colours with a lot of gold.”

“I also wanted my clients to feel like they were walking into a chic boutique hotel in Las Vegas,” he adds. “I wanted to give them the experience of feeling like they weren’t in Quebec and give them an escape from their daily lives.”

In addition to creating a luxurious design, Lambert prioritized function and even looked to his team to find out what they needed from the space. “One of my young hairstylists showed us something he saw on social media, and it allows us to dispense our towels like tissues, so we don’t have to fold or roll them. It’s a

really simple and affordable way to make our lives a little easier,” he says. “We also have a custom-made sink that we only use for an in-salon treatment and we also have a spot built into the other sinks for our toner that allows us to place the bowl in the sink so it makes it easier to apply.”

For furniture, Lambert worked with Lanvain, who he credits with supplying the space with beautiful, high-quality pieces.

When combining his vision with his experience, Lambert created a salon with an eclectic and refined vibe that he couldn’t be happier with. “The last

night before it opened, I stayed for two hours so I could walk, look around and cry,” he says. “I was so exhausted but so proud. Remembering that I started off in construction and saw that small barbershop, which gave me the vision of what I wanted to be, and [realizing that] I made it to this point was surreal and I was just so proud. I have three kids and I want them to see that when you have a goal and you don’t stop believing in yourself, you can make it happen.”

BRANDS

Kérastase

L’Oréal Professionnel

Pureology

Shu Uemura

WEBSITE kevinskyle.com

SOCIAL @kevinskyle_lestudio

DISCOVER MORE–RIGHT AT YOUR FINGERTIPS

Kicking off the main stage on Sunday was the one and only Guy Tang, who showcased #mydentity’s Liquid Demi hair colour and emphasized the importance of heat protection to help protect colour and prevent damage.

A Recap of Premiere Orlando 2023!

Thousands of hairstylists, colourists and beauty pros travelled south for Premiere Orlando, the largest annual beauty trade show held in the United States. Hosted at the Orange County Convention Center, the event featured stage presentations, product demos and educational seminars by some of the top professional beauty brands in North America.

When & Where: June 4-5, Orlando

Among the stage presentations and demos were class seminars led by some of the industry’s top artists, including Naeemah Lafond, who taught a class that showcased “the art of big hair” and demonstrations on how to work with wigs to create big, bold and voluminous hair for photo shoots and runways.

On the show floor, Moroccanoil’s ambassadors Canada’s own Lisa Dinh, took the stage for live colour and styling demos using the brand’s Color Rhapsody and Color Calypso hair colour.

We also got the chance to chat with David and Alexis Thurston about their new brand, Danger Jones, and caught up with John Moroney from Olaplex about his new role as vice president of global education and customer experience.

Los Angeles-based Matthew Collins (who’s originally from Vancouver) was at the Dyson booth to showcase styling techniques using the brand’s Supersonic Professional dryer and Corrale hair straightener.

Barbers gathered at the Barber Stage to watch onstage demos and live presentations by some of the industry’s top artists, including Sofie Pok (aka. Staygold) and B.C.-based barber and Victory Barber & Brand founder, Matty Conrad.

Inside Chatters Hair Salon’s Fairview Mall Grand Opening

Chatters Hair Salon held a grand-opening celebration to mark its newest Ontario location inside Fairview Mall.

When & Where: May 31, Toronto

To mark the occasion, the Chatters Hair Salon team invited influencers and media to explore the new location and enjoy an elevated guest experience. All attendees had the opportunity to receive complimentary blowout and hairstyling services while enjoying refreshments.

Among the attendees was Brianne Arpa, senior manager of marketing & branding for Chatters (pictured right). According to the brand, this opening is extra special since the company’s first new concept salon design in Toronto that’s easily accessible via the TTC subway line.

Designed by Sandra Fiore of Fiore Design Group, this space was inspired by Fiore’s design for their flagship store at Trinity Commons in Brampton. Both locations include a gender-neutral salon menu and offer a welcoming and inclusive experience for everyone.

With a $4 million expansion, the new state-of-the-art cosmetology school includes a campus that will offer students education, a sustainable career path and a wellness experience with phase two of the renovations including a local café, rooftop patio and yoga studio.

A Look at the New Aveda Institute Winnipeg

The Aveda Institute held a grand opening for its new downtown location on 276 Portage Avenue.

When & Where: June 5, Winnipeg

The institute has begun offering 2023 start dates in May, July and September and will be offering six start dates next year.

With more than 2,000 graduates, the Aveda Institute Winnipeg offers students a hands-on experience, 1,400 hours of education with the industry’s top educators, as well as the chance to work with guests one day per week. Plus, the academy is the first cosmetology school in the region to offer a curriculum that includes all hair textures!

Making Moves

Joico has named Jeannetta Walker-Rodgers as its new global technical director. The Chicago-based hairstylist, master colourist and texture expert has more than 20 years of experience in the hair industry, a passion for education, and is dedicated to teaching hairstylists around the world how to improve their technical skills in areas including colour formulation, techniques, haircare and styling. Through this new position, Walker-Rodgers hopes to continue to be an example for women and BIPOC beauty industry workers by showing them they can reach their goals in the industry.

Colour Confidential

No matter how much of a novice or veteran you are as a colourist, mistakes can happen! And, at the end of the day, they often provide valuable learning opportunities that help you grow behind the chair. Check out these candid stories from Canadian colourists to learn about their mishaps, how they fixed their mistakes and what they learned from them.

Julio Rodriguez @juliocolor

“I have a long-standing client of many years and platinum white-blonde is her colour of choice. She decided after our consultation that she wanted to go back to highlights for a change. I know from my many years of servicing that my platinum clients tend to be very cautious, so I recommended we do a full head of highlights with a demi-permanent. After the service was complete, she went to my partner, Derrick Rutherford, for her cut and finish. While drying her hair, he heard her concerns about it not looking as blonde and bright as before, and that it appeared too warm. Derrick called me over to let me know she was not liking the new colour and said, “You’re the expert, fix it!” [I didn’t say what I wanted to say back]. Instead, I stayed cool, calm, collected and professional, went back to my colour room and proceeded with a Malibu C treatment and new colour application of ammonia-free lightener. And just like that, we were back to platinum! What I learned from this experience was that even if you do your consultations, sometimes you just need to trust your gut and prepare for what you need to do to correct a mishap. Know your products inside and out and never let them see you sweat.”

— Julio Rodriguez, Valentini Hair Design, Guelph, Ont.

Bx Pfeiffer @bxpfeiffer

“After trying to grow my hair out naturally for about three months, I decided (again) that I wanted to stay blonde. I asked my coworker to lighten my roots and was pretty sure that with a lot of [treatments] and a bit of magic, we could not only evenly lighten my outgrown roots, but also lighten the ends just one more time. Well, we learned two lessons that day! First, my roots lighten beautifully even after three months and second, I learned that my mid-shaft was not able to handle one more lightening process. I lost about 40 per cent of my hair due to breakage! After having a mild breakdown, I learned that even with great haircare, there is a limit and I’m grateful it was my own head and not a client’s. We’re hair caretakers and ‘take care’ is what we should do.”

— Bx Pfeiffer, Fade n Dye, Roberts Creek, B.C.

Ashley Ruecker @hairbyashleyruecker

“Proper consultations are key to a successful colour appointment but as hairstylists, mistakes are sometimes inevitable. A mistake I’ve made more than once is rinsing the highlights a little too soon. What makes a great stylist is learning from these situations and having the proper tools and techniques to turn your [‘uh oh’] moments into your ‘aha’ moments. One of the things I utilize for correcting is my permanent toner. Sometimes you just need a little extra lift and the ammonia in permanent colour is going to give you that half a level of lift you may need for the perfect blonde! If you’re ever in a situation where you’re unsure about what to do, don’t panic! Figure out where you went wrong and don’t be afraid to ask for support from your fellow stylists.”

— Ashley Ruecker, Salon Haze, Regina, Sask.