Salon Magazine, Summer 2020 by Salon Communications Inc.

P OW E R I NG T H ROUGH T H E PA N DE M IC

C U R LY HAIR GU I DE

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 8799. 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, Ont., M8Z 1K2

E X PR E S S C OL OU R S E RV IC E S

READERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S CHOICE AWARDS

WINNERS

The New Normal SUMMER 2020

salonmagazine.ca

GO LONGER WITH 81% LESS BREAKAGE* NEW EXTREME LENGTH SYSTEM WITH BIOTIN

• FORTIFIES HAIR FROM ROOT TO TIP FOR 5X STRONGER HAIR** • REDUCES THE LOOK OF SPLIT ENDS BY 78%** • LEAVES HAIR FEELING SOFT, SHINY AND HEALTHY FORMULATED WITH:

BIOTIN

CASTOR OIL***

SOY PROTEIN****

*System as tested vs. non conditioning shampoo **System vs. non conditioning shampoo ***Castor oil only in conditioner formula ****Soy protein only in leave-in treatment formula

RESULTS YOU CAN SEE IN AS LITTLE AS 3 MONTHS

BEFORE

AFTER 3 MONTHS OF EXTREME LENGTH WITH BIOTIN

BEFORE

AFTER

THANK YOU FOR VOTING

GOLDWELL KERASILK SMOOTHING SYSTEM #1 IN-SALON SMOOTHING SYSTEM

FOR THE 6TH YEAR IN A ROW!

For more information: goldwell.com | Customer Service: 1-877-670-6767

THANK YOU FOR VOTING

KMS HAIRPLAY MOLDING PASTE

#1 STYLING PRODUCT

For more information: kmshair.ca | Customer Service: 1-877-670-6767

NEW!

— FEATURING DRAMA AT LA SCALA

Inspiration starts at your fingertips. Let the colors of Milan be your muse with the Muse of Milan Collection by OPI. AVAILABLE AUGUST 1 ST, 2020 Shop these NEW shades in GelColor, Infinite Shine, Nail Lacquer, and Powder Perfection* *in limited shades

opi.com • #OPI MUSEOFMILAN • #COLOR IS THE ANSWER

Summer 2020

34 F E AT U R E

Lessons Learned

Learn how salon owners and hairstylists across the country are powering through the pandemic.

37 F E AT U R E

And the Winners Are... The results are in! Find out who earned the top spots in our 9th annual Reader’s Choice Awards.

41 F E AT U R E

Your Ultimate Guide for Curly Hair

J O S E P H I ’A N S O N A ND LISA GR A H A M , M A R K LEESON, U.K.

“Conversations between stylists and guests are even more relevant now… We’re hearing a lot of stories coming out of COVID on how people have persevered through it.”

With more clients eager to rock their natural texture this summer, sharpen up your cutting and styling skills with our expert-approved tips and tricks.

—ROBERTO SINOPOLI, OWNER OF VERDE SALON, WINNIPEG ON THE COVER: PHOTO: ALEX VOLOT salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020 9

Editor’s Letter

I N S P I R AT I O N

Collections

Joseph I’Anson and Lisa Graham; Schwarzkopf Professional U.K.; Desmond Murray; Charlie Price; Joseph Ferraro; Rossa Jurenas

Publisher’s Note

L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L

SalonMagazine.ca

Craving even more content? Make sure to visit our website for expanded print stories, along with the latest industry news, Contessa updates, editorial hair collections and so much more.

P RO F I L E

Making It Through the Storm

From months of closures to reopening with new protocols, we spoke with three salon owners from across Canada about how they stepped up in creative ways to start a meaningful conversation.

19 W H AT ’ S N E W

Hairlines

Dive into summer with new product launches and tips for offering quick colour services. Plus, find out how barbershops and nail salons are adapting to the pandemic.

CONTE SSA 2 0 2 0 F I N A L I S T, ELITE MASTER H A I R S T Y L I S T: RO S S A J U R E N A S , S T U D I O RO S S A , T I L L S O N B U RG , O N T.

63 BUSINESS

The Cost of COVID-19

For those who may be struggling to catch up with unpaid bills or added expenses due to COVID, here are a few financial tips to help get you back on track.

64 INTER IORS

Down to Earth

Learn how this salon owner utilized his love for design to create a balanced, contemporary and COVIDfriendly space in Old Montreal.

66 # S A L O N S T RO N G

Better Together

To help boost positivity and support for our community, we’re sharing your heartwarming stories and social media posts in a new section we’ve named Salon Strong.

D E S M O N D M U R R AY, AT H E R T O N C OX , U . K .

10 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

K-PAK TO THE RESCUE

MEET OUR DAMAGED-HAIR HERO • Repairs years of visible damage* • Instantly 2X stronger hair** • Improves elasticity and manageability

#iconichair * When used with K-PAK RevitaLuxe **Against combing breakage on damaged hair vs. a non-conditioning shampoo

JOICO.CA ©

2020 Joico® Laboratories, Imported by Piidea Canada, Mississauga, ON, L5N 6C3 HAIR Larisa Love PHOTO Hama Sanders

Editor’s Letter —

What a year 2020 has been so far. It’s ironic how a year that many of us thought would be about seeing things clearly has proven to be quite blurry. As the COVID-19 pandemic has impacted us all in various ways, I’ve been talking with salon owners and hairstylists from across the country to hear more about the impact on salons and the beauty industry. There are many mixed emotions, but there’s also so much encouragement and optimism out there. And even if you or your business are not feeling it yet, keep your head up. When chatting with Beverly Robertson, a salon owner based in Calgary, for Lessons Learned (pg. 34), she says she compares having to close and reopen her salon to “starting all over again.” But hitting the reset button hasn’t necessarily been a bad thing. In fact, some beauty pros are even taking this opportunity to re-evaluate their priorities. As Claude Comeau from Spirit Spa in Halifax told me, it was after returning to work following months of time off that it’s become clear: Many people are now looking for more of a work-life balance. As we all figure out a way to navigate this new normal, remember that we’re in this together! All of us at Salon are here to support you through these uncertain times, which is why we’re debuting a new section called #SalonStrong (pg. 66) to keep these meaningful conversations going. And just remember in times of adversity, when the going gets tough, the tough get going. You’ve got this!

Veronica Boodhan Editor-in-Chief

12 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

PHOTOGRAPH BY DOUG MCMILLAN, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANA CARREIRO

When the Going Gets Tough…

NEW color

strength now togeth er

Our best color care line, for up to 8 weeks color protection* & stronger hair from root to tip.** *when using Structure+ Mask **when using Structure+ Mask vs. no treatment ÂŠ2020 The Wella Corporation wella.com/colormotion

Salon Magazine ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 29, ISSUE 4 SALONMAGAZINE.CA EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca

Publisher’s Note —

ART DIRECTOR (ACTING) Barbara Burrows ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR (ON LEAVE) Stephanie Gallant ASSISTANT EDITOR Karoun Chahinian karoun@salonmagazine.ca SOCIAL MEDIA SPECIALIST Joecy Zhang joecy@salonmagazine.ca CONTRIBUTOR Liz Bruckner

GROUP PUBLISHER Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jordan Miandro jordan@salonmagazine.ca PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca

Light at the End of the Tunnel

Laura Dunphy Publisher

14 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca

Salon Magazine 183 Bathurst Street Suite 202, Toronto, ON, M5T 2R7 T. 416.869.3131

Subscription Rates For Canada 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 + tax 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 HST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location US 1 year (8 issues) $50 USD

Address Changes helpdesk@subscriptions.salon or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10 Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.) Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANACARREIRO

Despite the fact that many events around the world have been postponed due to the COVID-19 pandemic, we’ve decided to continue with the 2021 Contessa Awards this year. I’ve had many heartfelt conversations with hairstylists over the last few months about how much the Contessas mean to them, and many have urged us not to postpone it because, in their words, it’s given them something to look forward to. With that said, we understand that as you’re returning to work and facing a busy schedule for the next few weeks to months, a photo shoot is not top of mind right now. That’s why we’ve made changes to our competition, making it more accessible than ever before. This year, entrants can re-enter collections they’ve submitted within the last two years. We’re calling this your Second Chance opportunity, and there are more details about this on our website. The Contessas are so much more than an awards event. After more than 30 years, they’ve become a beacon to so many Canadian hairstylists. The event unites the industry and creates wonderful comraderie and connection—things we need now more than ever! Anna Pacitto, one of Canada’s preeminent salon owners and award-winning competitors, recently stated, “Competition simply makes you a better hairdresser. When you are aspiring to win, you work that much harder. It takes you from being an ordinary hairdresser to an extraordinary hairdresser.” In a year that’s challenged us all, we can’t help but feel so thankful to you—the thousands of beauty pros who have supported the Contessas throughout the years and have held all that the event embodies close to your hearts. We do it for you!

OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca

This magazine is recyclable.

Please recycle where Printed on recyclable paperPRINTED IN CANADA facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail helpdesk@ subscriptions.salon. Our privacy officer is Adrian Holland. This project has been made possible [in part] by the Government of Canada.

salonmagazine.ca ➣

Get Creative Hairstyling really is an art, and we always jump at the chance to showcase your beautiful work! If you’re looking for some creative inspiration, make sure to check out our collection archive.

Thank you to everyone who participated in our COVID-19 surveys! From price increases and limiting services to the longterm impacts of the pandemic, find out what beauty pros across Canada had to say at SalonMagazine.ca.

Job Board Now that everyone’s back in business, are you in search of a new job or are you looking to hire? Visit SalonMagazine.ca to browse our job board or to post a free listing.

16 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

The deadline for Contessa 2021 is quickly approaching, and we can’t wait to see your entries! Stay up-to-date on all things Contessa, including rule changes and new categories.

PHOTOS: PHOTO: HAIR & MAKEUP: HAIRKRONE, WARDROBE STYLING: VISORI FASHIONART, PHOTO: DAVID ARNAL

And the Survey Says!

# PROUDLY VOTED OR VOTIN OU F GU Y K S AN

PERMANENT COLOR IN CANADA!

READER’S CHOICE AWARDS

WINNER 2020

YEAR S IN A ROW

WINNER Permanent Colour

Koleston Perfect

WINNER Men's Brand

SEB MAN

WINNER Appliance

ghd Platinum+ Styler

WINNER Polish / Lacquer

OPI Nail Lacquer

WINNER

Long-Wear

Hair Loss or Thinning Brand

OPI Infinite Shine

Nioxin

BLONDORPLEX

MULTI BLONDE LIGHTENING POWDER

No compromise on lift. Up to 97% less breakage*

➣

PHOTO: HAIR: JEPPE GREGERSEN AND GARY INGHAM, AVEDA SALONS & SPAS, U.K., MAKEUP: DANNI SMITH, WARDROBE STYLING: GARY INGHAM, PHOTO: RICHARD MILES

AS YOU’RE GETTING BACK TO WORK, BRIGHTEN YOUR ROUTINES WITH THE LATEST CARE, COLOUR AND STYLING PRODUCTS.

On the heels of virtual Pride celebrations around the world, gender fluidity is being embraced more than ever before. Hairstylists Jeppe Gregersen and Gary Ingham from Aveda Salons & Spas in London, U.K., explored the wide spectrum of gender and beauty in their colourful collection, Binary/ Non-Binary, which features a bold fusion of playful hues and edgy cuts. From vibrant pinks and yellows to stark blacks and platinum blondes, this edgy collection is meant to deconstruct the regressive notion that hairstyles and hair colour are gendered. “Hair is hair. And beauty is beautiful.” To view more photos from this collection, visit SalonMagazine.ca.

➣

Colour outside the lines with Schwarzkopf Professional’s Chroma ID.

Shine On Educate your clients about UVA hair damage with L’Oréal Professionnel’s Serie Expert Solar Sublime. Think UVA protection is just for skin? Think again! Harsh sun rays can be just as damaging to the hair fibres and scalp. Help clients stay protected this season with this three-piece system, including an after-sun shampoo, nourishing masque and conditioner spray. The shampoo helps wash away any pollutants while simultaneously refreshing and rehydrating hair. The deep-conditioning masque regenerates hair fibres’ natural protective layer, and the conditioner spray is a lightweight, leave-in mist with Mexoryl S.O., which provides instant protection for hair during sun exposure.

20 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

Spray and Go Find out why Oligo’s Blacklight Dry Shampoo is a saving grace for blonde clients. For your clients who are looking to extend their style an extra day or two, this vegan dry shampoo contains activated rice starch that instantly absorbs oil to actively enhance your client’s volume, leaving hair feeling fresh and clean. Plus, because there’s zero residue, it’s perfect for blondes that want to maintain their hair’s natural shine.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, JOICO, REDKEN, WELLA PROFESSIONALS, OLIGO PROFESSIONNEL, L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

Let clients show their true colours with this 100 per cent customizable colour system. Formulated with a bonding and low salt technology for intense care and better colour deposition, Chroma ID is a semi-permanent colour line that’s designed to be mixed and matched for unlimited shade combinations that can last up to 15 washes. The formula includes keratin and panthenol to improve hair quality and is available in four types of colour bonding masks: bold and expressive shades, low-commitment colours, colour boosting hues to maintain vibrancy at-home, as well two clear masks available in both in-salon or retail formats to help reduce colour intensity and create pastel hues.

➣

Hairlines — NEWS

Get Creative

Gloss Like a Boss

DID YOU KNOW? THERE’S A TREND OF SKINCARE INGREDIENTS, SUCH AS HYALURONIC ACID AND VITAMIN E, THAT ARE BEING INCORPORATED INTO HAIRCARE PRODUCTS. DUBBED AS “SKINNIFICATION,” IT’S A NEW BUZZWORD TO WATCH FOR OVER THE NEXT FEW MONTHS!

➣

Beautiful colour can get lost on dull and damaged hair. It’s time to revive your client’s locks with this nourishing formula made with African manketti oil, keratin, argan oil and a SmartRealease technology that works to repair, protect and strengthen hair. Plus, it also increases vibrancy, shine and minimizes frizz.

Hairlines — NEWS

Add the ultimate finishing touch to freshly coloured styles with Joico’s K-PAK Colour Therapy Glossing Oil.

➣ Smoke Show Get cool and opaque grey coverage with Wella’s Koleston Perfect Intense Natural Cool collection.

➣

Take your grey coverage to the next level with four new tones: 55/02, 66/02, 77/02 and 88/02, which offer 100 per cent opaque coverage of greys while still offering a natural, seamless finish. This unique formula combats unwanted warmth and features Wella’s Pure Balance Technology that leaves hair with a brilliant shine, and is perfect for root shadowing, colour melting and colour layering.

Go Long Help your clients put a stop to split ends with Redken’s new Extreme products. Now that salons have finally reopened, your clients are likely in need of some major TLC. From DIY colour damage to grown-out hair with split ends, give them the royal treatment with Redken’s new Extreme Length and Extreme Bleach Recovery. The Extreme Length haircare line includes a shampoo, conditioner and leave-in treatment that are packed with Biotin, soy protein and castor oil to prevent breakage and repair split ends. It’s perfect for clients who want to achieve stronger and healthier hair growth. The Extreme Bleach Recovery line is the key to preventing damage or dryness when lightening hair. It includes a shampoo, lamellar water and leave-in treatment. Inspired by Korean skincare, this line is packed with Centella Asiatica (CICA), a medicinal Asian herb known for its protective and healing qualities.

salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020 21

Hairlines — NEWS

➣

Beach, Please! Take your undone styles to the next level with Sexy Hair’s latest Texture products. While many of us are staying grounded for the next little while, the California-inspired Texture Sexy Hair line is sure to make your clients want to move closer to a coast and live out their ultimate beach hair dreams. Formulated with almond oil, avocado oil, gold, cotton seed extract and tapioca starch, the line’s newest additions include Sunny Vibes Texturizing Spray Gel, which provides definition and up to 72 hours of humidity resistance. Its Shoreline Texturizing Conditioner perfectly pairs with their existing shampoo and adds a boost of manageability and shine.

It’s Time to Freestyle!

Purple Rain Find out why Moroccanoil’s Blonde Perfecting Shampoo will be your (and your clients’) secret weapon this season. As the temperatures rise, help your blondes neutralize brassiness with this tone-correcting formula that features Moroccanoil’s signature argan oil. As it helps seal the cuticle and add extra shine to hair, it also corrects harsh tones in blonde, lightened and grey hair. The deep violet cleanser is free of sulfates, phosphates and parabens, and is formulated to enhance depth and revive dullness.

Learn everything you need to know about the newest Contessa Awards category: Freestyle! It’s a fact: There’s always that one photo during a photo shoot that perfectly embodies your creative vision, or just happens to be your absolute favourite. Now, it’s time to show it off in the newest Contessa category: Freestyle. With no rules on creativity, this category was created for you to let loose and show off your best work. ENTRIES OPEN ON AUGUST 1ST! 1. Download our official Contessa Freestyle overlay on SalonMagazine.ca. NOTE: Your entry MUST include the Contessa Freestyle overlay or it will not be counted as an entry! 2. Post the photo on your Instagram page using the hashtag #ContessaFreestyle. NOTE: Only one entry per person is permitted, and the photo cannot be entered into any other Contessa category. 3. And the best news of all… there is no entry fee! DEADLINE: September 9, 2020 For more information, visit SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa.

22 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: SEXY HAIR, INTERNATIONAL BEAUTY SERVICES & SUPPLIES, #MYDENTITY, AMIKA, MOROCCANOIL

➣

Luxuriously Custom

Boost of Protection Strengthen hair with #Mydentity’s #MyHero Collagen Powder & Protective Booster. Since so many clients have been stuck at home for the past few months, it’s likely that some of them have damaged their hair with box colour and other DIY hacks. To help restore and protect their strands, #Mydentity has launched #MyHero Collagen Powder & Protective Booster, the latest addition to the brand’s Intense Restorative System. The coloursafe product is made with collagen and amino acids to deeply condition the hair and add a layer of protection. Simply mix the powder into your colour or lightening formula, prep hair with the brand’s dual-action Cleanser, followed by their Collagen Repair cuticle sealer and hairsoftening treatment, then condition with their Internal Collagen Reconstructor and External Collagen Reconstructor.

hairlines — NEWS

A client’s hair colour should be just as unique as they are. With that in mind, it’s no wonder Balmain decided to embrace the rising demand for customization with Couleurs Couture, a colour line that allows stylists to mix and match shades for endless possibilities. With a low-ammonia formula, the colour offers 100 per cent grey coverage, and is enriched with silk protein, argan elixir and flaxseed oil for long-lasting colour and shine. Plus, it helps to revitalize the hair by reconstructing damage for even, smoother results. The colour collection is available in permanent, demi, tone on tone, superlighteners and toners.

➣

Give your clients the VIP treatment with Balmain’s intermixable Couleurs Couture.

➣

No Fade

Long live beautiful colour with Amika’s Fadeblock PreShampoo Color Seal. Say goodbye to short-lived colour with this pre-wash treatment that’s formulated with red wine extract, sea buckthorn berry, and an amino acid complex to form a protective barrier around the hair cuticle. When used as an in-salon pre-colour service, it locks in moisture, prevents fading, boosts elasticity, and helps provide even colour distribution, especially on more porous ends. salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020 23

Getting Personal Hairlines — NEWS

Help your clients achieve their individual haircare goals with the customizable Keune You haircare line. Whether it’s for their hair or skin, clients love customizable options for their specific wants and needs. Now you can give them a more personalized haircare experience with Keune You, which features 10 intermixable elixirs that target care and colour maintenance. Stylists are able to choose up to six to create the ultimate all-in-one solution for clients. With more than 100 possible combinations, the elixirs target volume, smoothness, colour, nutrition, shine and more, and can be added to a shampoo, conditioner or both! As an added bonus, you can even customize the luxurious boxes with each client’s name and elixir recipe.

Working Overtime

➣

Dry shampoo may seem like a simple, quick hair fix, but everyone has different expectations when it comes to performance. With that in mind, UNITE has created U:Dry, a new dry shampoo range that features three special formulas for all hair types (including colour and chemically-treated hair and extensions), oil levels and wash schedules. Each formula is lightweight and residue-free, which means no more extra buildup!

LIGHTEN UP

Diluting colour no longer means dulling it, thanks to Pravana’s Clear-Dilute. Unleash your inner artist and start creating perfectly personalized tones with this lightening formula that helps you dilute your vivid or natural tones without losing any richness or vibrancy. For colourists wanting to expand their current colour palettes, this clear gel formula is the perfect way to achieve endless shade variations. To use: Start with the Clear-Dilute formula and add in drops of the Pravana VIVIDS shades you’re going to be working with, and apply on dry and clean hair. Allow it to process for 20 to 30 minutes and rinse.

24 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

U:Dry Clear is an invisible formula that works perfectly as a quick, on-the-go solution for oil, limp hair, while also offering a quick volume boost.

U:Dry High is ideal for finer-haired clients who want to keep grease in check while pumping up their volume on day-two (and beyond) hair.

U:Dry Plus+ is designed for those in need of a more heavy-duty and highly absorbent solution for oily hair—even after an intense workout.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: KEUNE, JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS, OLIVIA GARDEN, UNITE, PRAVANA

3 reasons why UNITE’s U: Dry trio may be the upgrade your styles have been looking for.

➣

Perfect Blonde

Close Bond Repair and protect hair with Olaplex’s No. 7 Bonding Oil.

Who says going blonde has to be a long, drawnout (and often damaging) experience? With Paul Mitchell’s new and improved Synchrolift line, you can actually hydrate your clients’ hair while lightening it! The Synchrolift+ Ultra-Quick Blue Power Lightener features a new dust-free powder that helps you achieve up to nine levels of lift. Plus, it’s now infused with shea for a softer and healthier finish. They’ve also launched the Synchrolift Soft Cream Lightener, which can help you lift up to seven levels, and can be used for lightening both on or off the scalp.

Designed to hydrate and repair all hair types, this highlyconcentrated, reparative bonding oil helps increase shine and colour vibrancy while also minimizing pesky frizz and flyaways. The all-in-one solution also provides UV and heat protection, and helps shorten hair’s drying time without leaving behind any greasy residue.

hairlines — NEWS

Make your clients’ blonde dreams a reality with Paul Mitchell’s new Synchrolift.

Olivia Garden OG Essentials

➣

T O O L B OX

To help eliminate any extra stress that beauty professionals may be experiencing while reopening their salons, Olivia Garden has launched a specially-designed line of personal protective equipment (PPE) and supplies.

FABRIC FACE MASK: A cotton face mask

CLEAN BAGS:

FACE SHIELDS:

DISPOSABLE CAPE:

that features adjustable ear loops and a sleeve to insert a disposable mask as an extra filter.

After disinfecting tools, fabrics or apparel, safely store them in this 100 per cent recyclable, self-sealing bag.

Help protect your team with this anti-fog face shield, made with a custom black band design and adjustable buckle.

A waterproof, chemicalresistant and eco-friendly one-time-use cape.

“The OG Essentials aims to help customers and stylists feel at ease when being back in the salon. It also serves as a visual representation to the customer on how seriously the stylist is taking sanitation.”

— ANNE MAZA, CO-OWNER OF OLIVIA GARDEN salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020 25

SPOTLIGHT

P U R P L E P OW E R

Longwear Care Full coverage and long-lasting nail colour just got even easier! CND Shellac Wear Extender Base Coat is formulated to help extend the wear of gel polish for up to three weeks and improve nail appearance by smoothing out any imperfections and ridges—without any damage! Plus, the base coat’s curvehugging brush is designed to naturally adapt to nails’ rounded shape for an easy and effortless application.

Turn it Up! Gelish and Morgan Taylor team up with MTV for their summer collection. Make sure your client’s nails don’t miss a beat this season with Switch On Color by Gelish and Morgan Taylor, the brand’s latest nail polish collaboration with MTV. Inspired by the pop-culture icon’s history as a leader in music and self-expression, the six-piece line includes bold shades, such as Total Request Red and Electric Remix, which are perfect for summer and feature an ultra-shimmery finish.

OPI It’s all positive vibes with Feeling Optiprismic, an iridescent violet from the Hidden Prism collection.

CND Take a ride on the bold side with the Nauti Nautical collection, featuring vibrant purple It’s Now Oar Never.

Entity Strut your stuff with Oh So Fab, a purple crème from the Hot Off the Runway collection.

THINK GR EEN

Protecting the World Reduce excess waste with Green Circle Salons’ new PPE Recovery Initiative. While we all understand the importance of personal protective equipment (PPE) to help keep you, your team and your clients safe during the COVID-19 pandemic, there’s no denying how much extra waste that disposable masks, gloves and capes are generating in the process. With this in mind, Green Circle Salons has launched a new program, the PPE Recovery Initiative, which helps salon owners separate any non-recyclable and contaminated waste, and helps them dispose of it separately, reducing the risk of contaminating other recyclable materials. “With the PPE Recovery Initiative, we can ensure that people are kept safe as they return to work, without a single new item entering the landfill,” says Shane Price, founder and CEO of Green Circle Salons. This initiative provides salons with safe disposal kits, along with educational materials on how to offset the financial costs related to PPE. Instructions on how to safely dispose of these products are included, as is business marketing support to help staff and owners communicate with their clients about how their business is an environmental leader with this program.

26 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

Artistic Nail Design Sorbae All Day from the Cool As It Gets collection will be your new summer fave.

LeChat Nails Dive into summer with Juicy Vibes, featuring the stunning periwinkle Lilac Lux.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: CND, OPI, ENTITY, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, LECHAT NAILS, GELISH AND MORGAN TAYLOR

Hairlines — NAILS

Help your nail services stand the test of time with CND Shellac’s Wear Extender Base Coat.

CENTRAL BEAUTY SUPPLY SOUTH WESTERN ONTARIO www.centralbeautysupply.ca

VENUS BEAUTY SUPPLIES GREATER TORONTO AREA www.venusbeauty.com

E.S.P. SALON SALES MANITOBA, ALBERTA, SASKATCHEWAN www.espsalonsales.com

ICON SALON SYSTEMS BRITISH COLUMBIA www.iconbc.com

O’KEEFE AGENCIES NEWFOUNDLAND www.okeefeagencies.com

FIND OUT W H Y THE SE F O U R T I M E - SAV I N G S E RV I C E S W I L L B E YO U R SAV I N G G R AC E THIS SEASON.

Express Your Colour Services As salons across the country continue to recover from the effects of the pandemic, being time-efficient is more important than ever—especially when it comes to colour services. These expert tips will help you speed up your appointments and make the most of your overbooked schedule. Express Balayage While it’s popular in any season, balayage is ideal in the summer months for clients who want a more lived-in, lowmaintenance look. Since this hair-painting technique has a more natural and seamlessly blended finish—along with a softer grow-out—it’s perfect for stylists who are juggling a lot of clients these days. In order to cope with her salon’s busy schedule, Farhana Premji (@xo.farhana.balayage), a balayage expert and owner of Calgary-based The Beige Label Salon, offers an express balayage service. The service can be completed in half the time by using a quicker application method and one singlegloss from root to end (rather than their usual double-glossing process and separate gloss at the roots). “It’s just a quicker option, but it doesn’t replace our full balayage service,” she says. “It helps to brighten them up around their face and surface hairs on top, to hold them over until September or October when we can hopefully give them the full treatment.” PRO TIP PREMJI ADVISES STYLISTS TO TAKE THE TIME TO PROPERLY COMMUNICATE WITH CLIENTS WHEN BOOKING, TO HELP MANAGE THEIR EXPECTATIONS AND ENSURE THEM THAT THE QUALITY OF THEIR SERVICE WILL NOT BE AFFECTED.

28 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

Since reopening her salon, Premji and her staff are focusing on client retention, and are trying to get as many clients back in their chairs as soon as possible by booking two services per appointment. “When you’re doing longer, three- to four-hour services and you have hundreds of clients to accommodate, you have to shift the way that you’re booking,” she says. “We encourage clients to tell us what their most urgent need is and [once we take care of it in the first appointment,] we then book them in for a longer service in a few weeks or months when we have the time and resources.” Money Piece The need for rich, multidimensional colour is always in high demand. For clients who are requesting a major highlight refresh, stylists can focus on the “money piece” (the front section of the hair) to revive their colour. This easy, faceframing effect will add a pop of brightness to enhance their facial features. Remember that how thick or thin you decide to go with sectioning the hair will impact the overall look, and the effect can be completed using foils or freehand painting. “You want to focus most of your work in the front because that’s the first thing your client is going to notice when they look in the mirror,” says Melissa Duguay (@melzduguay), a Contessa award-winning hairstylist and Joico guest artist based in Moncton, N.B. She adds that she personally uses a pivoting foiling technique by focusing the most colour in the front area, and then uses the client’s part as a focal point to pivot away from towards the back of the head, creating a gradient effect.

TEXT: KAROUN CHAHINIAN, PHOTOS: GETTYSTOCK, INSTAGRAM

Hairlines — COLOUR

➣

PRO TIP FOR CLIENTS WHO HAVE A DARKER REGROWTH BUT WANT THEIR COLOUR TO BE BRIGHTENED UP FOR SUMMER, PREMJI SUGGESTS A ROOT SMUDGE (AKA. REVERSE BALAYAGE) WITH A DEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR OR TONER, WHICH WILL HELP FADE THE HARSH DEMARCATION LINE.

Balayage @xo.farhana.balayage Mone y Piec e @xo.f arhan a.bala y

age

VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA FOR MORE TIME-SAVING COLOUR AND STYLING HACKS!

Ro o @h t Tou o n e c hya n U p s dch rom e

If you don’t have time to freshen up your client’s full head of highlights, focusing on the money piece and blending that section out is an easy and efficient way to renew their colour. PRO TIP THE AMOUNT OF IMPACT YOU WANT TO MAKE WITH YOUR HIGHLIGHTS WILL DEPEND ON HOW THICK OR THIN YOUR LIGHTENER SLICES ARE. IF YOU’RE GOING FOR A QUICK AND EASY APPLICATION, DUGUAY RECOMMENDS THICKER, WELL-BLENDED SLICES, WHILE A MORE NATURAL LOOK WOULD INVOLVE THINNER SLICES.

Root Touch-Ups Since many of your clients likely haven’t had their hair coloured in months, they’ll be in urgent need of touch-ups for their greys and regrowth. Duguay says a large percentage of her clients come in for root touch-ups and grey coverage, so she prioritizes her clients’ regrowth area so they can leave the salon happy, but also schedules them to come back in for a full service. “These clients just want those hairs to be covered and aren’t looking for a specific technique or service. This is great, because it’s an easy in and out, and just focuses on the necessities,” she says. “The second appointment is more detail-focused. It gives you the chance to add some more flare or to change up their look entirely.” In terms of pricing, Duguay adds that her salon (Eccentric Hair Studio) is now charging clients by the hour rather than by appointment, to help keep appointments tighter and on schedule. Toning and Glossing After months without any colour touch-ups, some clients may just want a quick refresh to brighten everything up. Enter: Toners and glosses. For blondes battling brass or brunettes dealing with dullness, Premji says a quick toning service can have a huge

Glossing @hairdotcom

impact to help bring colour back to life while also rehydrating the hair. For clients with grown-out and faded hair, but who like the tone of their ends, Duguay says her salon has been offering a lot of colour matching. Instead of doing a full recolour, they’ll match the client’s roots with the rest of their hair and then boost the overall tone with a quick gloss. “It’s such a quick way to refresh hair and give it some colour and shine again,” she says, adding that clients will leave satisfied and stylists are happy, too, since it’s a simple and fast solution. PRO TIP DUGUAY RECOMMENDS GIVING YOUR CLIENT’S FADED HAIR A BOOST WITH A CLEAR GLAZE (A SHINE-ENHANCING TOP COAT THAT DOESN’T PENETRATE THE HAIR FOLLICLE AS DEEP AS A GLOSS), WHICH WILL ALSO HELP TAME FLYAWAYS AND FRIZZ BY DEEP-CONDITIONING THE HAIR. salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020 29

WITH HEALTH AND SAFETY MORE TOP OF MIND THAN EVER, FIND OUT HOW BARBERS ACROSS CANADA ARE BEING IMPACTED BY THE NEW COVID-19 GUIDELINES.

The New Age of Barbering From adhering to new health and safety regulations to physical distancing guidelines, we spoke with two barbers to find out how they’re adjusting to the new normal. Personal Space With many businesses making face masks mandatory for clients, one of the first questions from many is, how will they affect shaving and other grooming services? Martin Rivard, the owner of the Barber & Co. chain of shops in British Columbia and Ontario, says his Vancouver shops are allowed to continue offering beard and other facial grooming services, as long as barbers wear personal protective equipment (PPE). “For any beard or hot shave services, you require another layer of [facial] protection,” says Rivard. “We’ve been using face shields and goggles.” On the opposite coast, Mark Peyton, the owner of Sailor Bup’s Barbershop in Dartmouth, N.S., has been forced to temporarily halt all facial grooming services, which includes shaves, facial massages and beard trims, due to provincial regulations. “All of these changes and adjustments were initially difficult, but are totally worth it to be able to reopen my doors and accept clients again.” 30 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

EXPERT TIP: RIVARD SAYS IT’S IDEAL FOR BARBERS TO HAVE DOUBLE OR TRIPLE SETS OF TOOLS SO THEY WON’T NEED TO SANITIZE THEIR CLIPPERS AND RAZORS BETWEEN EVERY APPOINTMENT.

Safety First Sanitization is not a new concept for barbers, but what’s now changed is the frequency of when spaces and tools need to be cleaned and disinfected. For Rivard, his team sanitizes their entire shop (including floors, windows, door knobs, light switches, etc.) once a day, while barbers are required to disinfect their entire station and tools between every client. One setback they are now experiencing is with the amount of time spent cleaning rather than cutting and styling. Rivard says 30-minute quick services are now 45 minutes when including disinfecting and waiting time. While this may not seem significantly longer, these extra minutes add up throughout the day as time (and revenue) lost. With this in mind, he decided to implement a small price increase of five dollars for haircuts and shaves. As for Peyton, he says he’s grateful for the extra few minutes between clients because it gives him and his team a chance to take a small break before their next service. “Of course, we’re making a little less money because we’re not taking in as many people every day, but I would rather [spend extra time] to put out a good haircut. At the end of the day, those haircuts are business cards walking out the door,” he says.

A Shift in Culture Since it’s a financially difficult time for many, owners have been doing their best to avoid cutting their staff’s hours. For some employees, this may mean working shorter hours on more days or longer hours on less days. For Peyton, he was so focused on not cutting hours that he decided to change the overall layout of his shops to accommodate his team. His Dartmouth shop now has a large divider wall in the middle with two chairs on each side. To allow four barbers to work at the same time, they created a new station near the waiting area and have added another station inside a now-emptied office. With barbershops known to be very welcoming—the gatherings of staff and clients has long been considered part of the appeal—the experience is now drastically different. New regulations have forced owners to make additional changes, such as no longer accepting walk-ins and maintaining extra distance between clients. “I’ve formed friendships with my clients, so I’m used to greeting them with a hug or handshake,” says Peyton. “I worry that this distance is taking the connection out of my work. These people are coming in and supporting my career—the last thing I’d want them to feel is like a dollar sign.”

TEXT: KAROUN CHAHINIAN, PHOTO: GETTY STOCK

Hairlines — MEN

➣

for voting #1 again! for voting #1 again! # again! for voting voting BIO SCULPTURE #1 1 again! VOTED #1 NAIL TREATMENT/ th for the 6 year in a row STRENGTHENER # for the 6th year in a row VOTED 1 th for the 6 NAIL year in a row ENHANCEMENT

for the 6th year in a row

ETHOS VITAMIN DOSE A natural nail treatment suitable for all VITAMIN nailETHOS types, formulated to rejuvenateDOSE the nail matrix A natural nail treatment suitable for all VITAMIN nailETHOS types, formulated to rejuvenateDOSE the nail matrix A natural nail treatment suitable for all nail types, formulated to rejuvenate the nail matrix

BIOSCULPTURE SCULPTURE BASE BIO BASE GEL GEL universal base base gel gel suitable suitable for for all all nail types and AA universal BIO SCULPTURE nail enhancements, enhancements, formulated free freeBASE of harmful harmfulGEL ingredients nail formulated of ingredients A universal base gel suitable for all nail types and SCULPTURE nail BIO enhancements, formulated freeBASE of harmfulGEL ingredients A universal base gel suitable for all nail types and nail enhancements, formulated free of harmful ingredients

Choose BIO SCULPTURE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the trusted Leader in Nail Care since 1988

➣

Hairlines — NAIL TECH

WITH SO MUCH CHANGE HAPPENING IN SALONS, FIND OUT HOW TO MAXIMIZE YOUR BUSINESS WITHOUT COMPROMISING YOUR SERVICES.

Back to Basics Nail Art Since nail art is a significant source of revenue for many salons, timing is everything—especially now, when more of it is required to disinfect stations and tools. Jessica Vero, a Vancouver-based nail technician, salon owner and educator for Gelish, says her salon originally began adding an extra half-hour to all appointments to accommodate the new guidelines. “At first, we were overly cautious and booking huge gaps between clients,” she says. “We’re getting better with our timing and realize we don’t need as much time; an extra 15 minutes per client is enough.” With the high number of clients waiting to get their nails done, many salons are trying to accommodate as many clients as possible. Vero says she is continuing to offer all nail art services—even the more time-consuming ones. “Nail art is a good part of my income, so I found that I would rather see fewer clients and work with one for two hours instead of two people for an hour each,” she says. “The more people you see, the more risk you have.” Enhancements Nail enhancement services, including extensions and dips, are slightly more controversial in light of COVID-19. Since these services tend to generate more dust—which can potentially spread the virus throughout the salon—some businesses have decided to temporarily limit these services, or change the way in which they are provided. “It’s better to be as safe as possible. We cannot risk having an outbreak in our salon, so until we know exactly how the virus is spread, we must be overly careful,” says Vero. “I still offer enhancement services at my salon, but now I hand file instead of using an electric file to keep dust to a minimum. I also wear a disposable apron that I replace after every client.”

32 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

EXPERT TIP TO REDUCE THE NUMBER OF TOOLS AND ITEMS THAT REQUIRE DISINFECTING, VERO SUGGESTS NO LONGER USING CLIPS TO HOLD COTTON PADS IN PLACE WHEN REMOVING GEL POLISH. INSTEAD, SHE SWITCHED TO USING FOILS, WHICH, AS A GREEN CIRCLE SALON, SHE’S ABLE TO SAFELY RECYCLE.

While dip services were a significant part of her business, Vero has made the decision to eliminate them—at least for the time being. “A dip manicure needs to be removed every time, so it requires extra time and creates additional dust,” she says, adding that while she historically always used individual containers for each dip client (to dispose of any excess powder), she advises salons that reuse or share powder from client to client avoid this, especially in light of COVID-19, to prevent cross-contamination. For salons that heavily rely on nail enhancement services for their business, Sarah Melanson, a nail technician and senior educator for Bio Sculpture Canada who’s based in the Maritimes, says nail techs should be creating and maintaining a clean and safe environment for clients. “Our main focus should be to prevent person-to-person spread via direct contact. All technicians should be taking measures to protect themselves and their clients at all times,” she says. “If your system [produces] high dust or odour, you should have proper ventilation in your salon as well as a dust extraction system.” Pricing Some salons have either increased their service prices or implemented a new fee per service to help with the additional costs of sanitization products and personal protective equipment (PPE). “Price increases are always something that nail techs struggle with,” says Melanson. “But now is a good time to raise yours

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE): GETTY STOCK, BIO SCULPTURE CANADA, CND CANADA, GELISH

As businesses ramp up their disinfecting protocols to adhere to the new COVID-19 guidelines, nail salons have had to reassess the way they offer services. We spoke with nail owners and educators to discuss tips on how to continue to deliver a safe yet enjoyable service for your clients.

“PRICE INCREASES ARE ALWAYS SOMETHING THAT NAIL TECHS STRUGGLE WITH, BUT NOW IS A GOOD TIME TO RAISE YOURS IN ORDER TO ASSIST IN OFFSETTING THE NEW PPE COSTS AND STANDARDS TO OPERATE. MANY TECHNICIANS HAVE ADDED NEW COURSES AND CERTIFICATES TO THEIR RÉSUMÉ DURING COVID-19, AND THESE NEW SKILLS WARRANT A PRICE INCREASE.” — SARAH MELANSON, NAIL TECHNICIAN AND SENIOR EDUCATOR FOR BIO SCULPTURE CANADA

in order to assist in offsetting the new PPE costs and standards to operate. Most technicians have added new courses and certificates to their résumé during COVID-19, and these new skills warrant a price increase.”

HERO PRODUCTS Find out why you’ll want to have these on hand to help save some time this season.

Gelish Polygel This no dust, no fuss hybrid system combines the best of acrylic and hard gel for a lightweight, durable and odourless enhancement experience.

CND Solar Speed Spray The less contact, the better! This spray is perfect for setting manicures, and is packed with nutrients including vitamin E and sweet almond oil.

Bio Sculpture Ethos Kiwi Scrub Bring rough, dry nails back to life—without excessive filing— thanks to this scrub packed vitamins C and E, to exfoliate and moisturize. Plus, the handy droplet is ideal for an easy, touch-free application.

While Vero admits she hasn’t increased her prices yet, she’s open to it. “I’m seeing the costs add up for the amount of PPE used for each service,” she says. “Clients know that things are going to be more expensive. They’re more aware now of how much we’re spending on masks and gloves. We’re also using a lot more single-use products like files and aprons.” EXPERT TIP WITH THE EXCEPTION OF PEDICURES, NAIL LACQUER SERVICES ARE BEING DISCOURAGED DUE TO THE EXTRA DRYING TIME THEY REQUIRE. TO HELP PROMOTE MORE GEL-POLISH SERVICES, VERO CHARGES THE SAME PRICE FOR GEL POLISH AND LACQUER MANICURES.

New Reality As nail techs are getting accustomed to wearing the extra PPE, more salons are encouraging them to take breaks between clients to avoid feeling overly heated or dehydrated. “It’s important to remember that this ‘new norm’ means technicians are now seeing fewer clients, and may need to work longer hours to accommodate their full clientele,” says Melanson. “Remember to take proper breaks, stretch, get fresh air and nourishment, and to keep your mental health in check.” For clients, the experience at a nail salon can be vastly different. In addition to extra sanitizing procedures and PPE, steps that were once routine, such as touching polish bottles or nail swatches, are likely no longer an option. “We’re not so much modifying the service, but the experience,” says Vero. “Clients can be shocked to find out they can’t have a magazine during their pedicure, or are not being served beverages. We’ve had to cut back on some of those things.” To help make the nail salon experience as welcoming and enjoyable as possible, she suggests adding extra time for pedicure scrubs or hand/foot massages. “Clients are expecting a more clinical, basic service but we try to spend a few more minutes whenever we can.” salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020 33

LESSONS LEARNED As salons reopen across the country, we chatted with salon owners and hairstylists to find out how they’re adjusting to the “new normal” and making the most of it.

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

Salons have just endured the ultimate test. From closures and layoffs, to a reopening plan with stringent new health and safety guidelines, many are still adapting to this new way of life. Yet some have managed to persevere through it all and take away some valuable life and economic lessons. We asked salon owners and hairstylists across Canada to share what they’ve learned from the pandemic thus far, and how some of new guidelines are affecting their business for the better.

Time = Money While hairstylists are accustomed to staying within specific time frames to work their magic, let’s face it: Some are known for running longer with their appointments. But factor in social distancing guidelines that limit the number of clients allowed inside the salon at any given time with the extra time needed for the new cleaning protocols, and it’s more important than ever to be mindful of the clock. “We minimized our shifts to six hours [from the previously typical] eight- to 10-hour shifts. But based on our report from last year, we actually made more money [in our first week back] than we did in the same week last year, because

34 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

we’ve had to be really smart with our bookings.” — Liz Ogilvie, Hair Junkie, Ottawa “[Historically], we always gave stylists more than enough time to work on their client and not feel rushed. But now, when one stylist is finishing their shift and the next stylist is starting, they each have to work more strategically to finish on time so that the next client isn’t left waiting.” — Marek Whitechurch, MonoKrome Salon, Montreal “Appointments are very structured because you’re so timed now, which I think is good because we’re condensing any spacing between appointments. It’s not hard; it’s just different. Our stylists are working shorter hours on more days, but we left our Sundays

open for any longer colour appointments, just in case they’re not sure how long to schedule or to do any major colour corrections. — Beverly Robertson, The Beverly, Calgary

Experience Counts With so much change happening right now, managing your clients’ expectations is important. Since salons are forced to limit services or offerings, it’s emphasized the importance of communication with your clients and going the extra mile to make sure

“AS A BUSINESS OWNER, IT’S IMPORTANT TO HAVE RENT YOU CAN AFFORD, TO ONLY ORDER WHAT YOU NEED TO NOT HAVE A TON OF EXTRA INVENTORY. MORE BUSINESSES ARE REALIZING THAT THEY CAN SAVE MONEY AND GET THE SAME RESULTS BY HAVING PEOPLE DO THINGS REMOTELY.” –BEVERLY ROBERTSON, THE BEVERLY, CALGARY

you’re continuing to offer them a positive experience.

PHOTO: GETTY

“We have to stay consistent. A lot of our clients come to us for self-care and to decompress. When we’re checking clients in, we’re asking them how they are and letting them know we’re excited to see them. For our shampoos, we’re focusing more on head massages— spending more time so the clients can relax and not feel rushed. It also helps them feel less anxiety.” — Liz Ogilvie, Hair Junkie, Ottawa “We already feel bad about not being able to offer clients drinks or the at-home vibe we’re used to offering, so we’re trying to do as much as we can within the service to make them feel as welcome and comfortable as possible. We don’t want them to feel

of stories coming out of COVID on how people have persevered through it, and hairstylists are often the people clients will tell them to. These stories can be hard to have to hear sometimes, but on the flip side, it’s also great to be part of the healing process for our guests.” — Roberto Sinopoli, Verde Salon, Winnipeg

Consultations

“It’s a completely different way of meeting a client for the first time and we’ve found that clients aren’t using their hands the same way [when they’re speaking]. For example, they’re not grabbing their hair if they don’t want it cut off, or touching their fringe or problem areas. In light of this and to make the discussion process more comfortable, we’re still offering FaceTime consultations, and they’ve been really well received. You still have to do a consultation when the client comes in, but because you’ve already discussed with them via video, it’s a lot shorter.” — Beverly Robertson, The Beverly, Calgary

Safety Matters

With face masks becoming strongly suggested (if not mandatory) across the country, they’ve not only changed the way we interact with one another, they’ve added a layer of difficulty to the consultation process. Here’s how some salons are finding ways to overcome the challenges associated with wearing them.

“Our in-salon consultations have shortened quite a bit since we’re doing a lot more over the phone, but the conversations between stylists and guests are even more relevant now. Hairstylists are a great outlet for people when it comes to mental support and wellbeing. We’re hearing a lot

As many businesses have had to step up their cleaning protocols, a lot more time and effort is being spent on making sure they’re creating a safe environment for clients and staff. While it’s not new for salons to regularly clean and disinfect tools, find out why some say the recent added measures have not necessarily been a detrimental change. ➤

like the service is rushed; we want them to feel like they’re getting the service they expected.” — Marek Whitechurch, MonoKrome Salon, Montreal

salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020 35

“This is stuff we learned in hair school and did when we first [graduated]. We were always adamant about cleaning, but not to the degree we are now. I don’t think it’s a bad thing—I think it should have always been this way and maybe this is going to reteach people how to be careful.” — Claude Comeau, Spirit Spa, Halifax “The sanitation and cleaning processes may look like overkill right now compared to how loose things were before, but you have to take a step back and ask yourself why would you change it— the safety of our guests and our staff is key. COVID-19 has really changed a lot of our processes, which are going to stick even after all of this is over.” — Roberto Sinopoli, Verde Salon, Winnipeg

“LONG TERM, I THINK PEOPLE ARE GOING TO BE A LOT MORE PREPARED FOR A SECOND WAVE. WE MAY NOT HAVE ALL THE ANSWERS, BUT WE’LL BE IN THE MINDSET WHERE WE CAN TAKE ON MORE CHALLENGES THAN WE COULD HAVE IN THE PAST.” –ROBERTO SINOPOLI, VERDE SALON, WINNIPEG

FOR MORE REOPENING STORIES FROM SALON OWNERS AND HAIRSTYLISTS ACROSS CANADA, VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA.

“If clients aren’t comfortable browsing around, they can go on their phone and look at our store online and purchase. The products are then available for them to pick up at the front.” — Liz Ogilvie, Hair Junkie, Ottawa

Retail Therapy Many salons have either removed their retail or added signage to discourage clients from touching products (which, in turn, would require disinfecting). While retail sales may have been challenging for some businesses pre-pandemic, they don’t have to stay that way. “A lot of our retail is now happening when the guest is in the chair. A lot more conversations and education is happening, which makes it even more comfortable for guests to ask questions about products.” — Roberto Sinopoli, Verde Salon, Winnipeg 36 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

“We’re trying to ensure our schedules will continue to be busy, while also trying to get in as many clients as we can, and that means spacing out our services and creating a good balance of haircuts and colour services. This way, you’re going to maintain the busyness, without having a huge gap of waiting and having clients all be ready again at the same time. We’re trying to stagger things now so that future bookings will be a little more spread out. So far it’s worked out really well.” — Claude Comeau, Spirit Spa, Halifax

Pre-Bookings Getting your clients to prebook has (or should have) always been a priority, but it’s even more important now as you’re managing your appointment books for the weeks and months ahead. “We’ve been doing all of our pre-booking for their next appointment at the chair with a tablet, and our pre-booking numbers have gone up significantly; they’ve doubled, if not more.” — Roberto Sinopoli, Verde Salon, Winnipeg

Work-Life Balance After having months of time off, it’s given many people the rare, much-needed opportunity to reflect and prioritize a more balanced work/life schedule. “Our staff are working no more than eight hours a day. We took a conservative route in getting more guests in the

door, but are not pushing it. The last thing we need on top of all of the stress of returning back to work after COVID is to get burnt out.” — Roberto Sinopoli, Verde Salon, Winnipeg “We had three months at home to spend with our families and loved ones, and just do things we love doing that we didn’t have time for before. Now we can ask ourselves, ‘Do I want to go back to working full-steam like I was before, or do I want a little home life, too?’ We can slow it down a little bit and not feel like we have to be there 24/7 to make everybody happy. People are going to adapt, and it’s going to be fine.” — Claude Comeau, Spirit Spa, Halifax “With their hours [per day] cut down, stylists can now have more breaks. When their client’s colour is processing, the stylist can take a break to go outside or to the break room. They’ll have more time to breathe, relax, or get something to eat. A short 20-minute break to get some fresh air can really help a person both physically and mentally.” — Katia Jananji, MonoKrome Salon, Montreal

And the Winners Are… A big thank you to all our loyal readers for raising your voices and participating in our 9th annual Reader’s Choice Awards! From brands to products to tools, see who claimed this year’s top spots. BY KAROUN CHAHINIAN

t LIGHTENING SYSTEM: Schwarzkopf Professional BlondMe

s GREEN BRAND: Pureology SERUM/OIL: L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil

HAIR EXTENSION BRAND: Great Lengths

s NAIL ENHANCEMENT: Bio Sculpture Base Gel

salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020 37

▼ STYLING PRODUCT: KMS Hairplay Molding Paste

▼ NAIL TREATMENT/STRENGTHENER: Bio Sculpture ETHOS Vitamin Dose

▲ CUTTING/STYLING TOOL: Kasho Shears

▼ IN-SALON SMOOTHING SYSTEM: Goldwell Kerasilk Smoothing System

▼ BONDING SYSTEM: Joico Defy Damage

▲ BREAKOUT

PRODUCT: Schwarzkopf Professional tbh – true beautiful honest Permanent Color Creme

38 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

ENT

▼ P

sio rofes

AN ERM

rfec n Pe lesto o K als

ella P R: W

O COL

▼ MEN’S STYLING PRODUCT: American Crew Matte Clay

ray

g Sp

APPLIANCE: GHD Platinum+ ▼

rib Y: O PRA

in xturiz ry Te

▼ POLISH/LACQUER: OPI Nail lacquer

AIR ▲ H

▼ CURL/ TEXTURE ENHANCER: L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art Transformer Lotion

UR: nce OLO ra NT C gora Vib E N RMA ssional I E P rofe EMI ▲ D arzkopf P w h c S

▲ DEEP CONDITIONER OR RECONSTRUCTOR: Joico K-PAK Color Therapy Luster Lock

salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020 39

▼ SHAMPOO AND

CONDITIONER DUO: Oribe Gold Lust Shampoo & Conditioner

▼ MEN’S BRAND: Seb Man

▼ LONG-WEAR POLISH: OPI Infinite Shine

▼ DRY SHAMPOO: Amika Perk Up Dry Shampoo

▼ SOAK-OFF GEL: CND Shellac

▲ HAIR LOSS OR THINNING BRAND: Nioxin

40 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

PHOTO: COLOUR: STEVIE CORTHINE, STEVIE ENGLISH HAIR, AUSTRALIA, HAIR: KOBI BOKSHISH, MAKEUP: PABLO MORGADE, WARDROBE STYLING: JOSIE MCMANUS, PHOTO: DAVID MANNAH

Your Ultimate Guide for Curly Hair

Sun’s out, curls out! With more clients rocking their natural texture this summer, it’s time to freshen up your curly cutting and styling skills. BY KAROUN CHAHINIAN

VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA FOR TIPS ON HOW TO COLOUR CURLY HAIR.

HAIRCUTTING:

Jackson, who prides herself on working with all hair types, says it’s crucial to customize your technique for each client. When she works with looser curl patterns, she often prefers to first cut the hair wet and then once again after it’s dried, so she’s able to fine-tune the details and do any extra clean-up later on, if necessary. For clients who walk into her salon with hair that’s already styled in its natural state, she will sometimes take the opportunity to cut their hair while it’s dry to avoid any surprises. “This helps give me a guideline as to how much I’m cutting,” says Jackson. “That way, I know that whatever I cut, when I go back in I know not to cut more than I’ve already started cutting.” When it comes to shaping the hair, Antonio Quintieri, a top stylist with Wella Professionals and a curly hair specialist, says he initially PRO TIP: cuts hair wet, and applies Damtew recommends working some product to add more with more watery, lubricant types of tension and grip when products when dealing with finer and looser waves and curls to not weigh cutting. Then, he goes in them down, but if your client has with a razor or shears to coarser hair, it’s better to work whether the hair is fine-tune any details. with a creamier product to add coarse or fine, and “You really have to analyze more weight and hydration. any damage (frizz, where the movement is in dryness, etc.). You need the curl to cut it properly,” he to take the time to analyze explains. “And I like to scoop away their curl type and pattern. with a pair of shears or a razor on the Remember: There isn’t a one-size-fits-all inside of that “s” formation of the curl. formula when it comes to working with You’re always cutting on the inside of the textured hair! shape to not disturb the curl and let it fall When deciding on the shape you’ll naturally.” Quintieri adds that this is an create, it’s also important to consider the important technique when working with client’s facial features and what length more delicate and visible sections like and layer style would compliment them. bangs or outer layers.

type

Now that summer’s in full swing, you’ll likely notice more clients are looking to embrace their natural texture. And this can be good news for salons, as more are looking to cut down (or eliminate) their blow-drying time. From cutting to finishing, we’re breaking down the curl types and asked curl specialists for their must-have tips and tricks to keep you from spiralling out of control this season. Consultations As you’ve heard time and time again, a proper consultation is key, especially when it’s your first time working with a client’s hair. “I choose how I approach hair types based on the actual curl pattern sitting in front of me,” says Janet Jackson, a Toronto-based hairstylist and owner of JouJou Hair Studio. “The first thing you need to know or identify is their curl pattern or texture, so I have that conversation first, before I actually touch their curls.” Details to look out for: How tight, loose or defined the curls are, 42 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

Waves and Looser Curls (Type 2: A-C) Here’s what you need to know if your client has looser waves and longer curls— forming more of an s-shape, rather than a fully-defined ringlet.

STYLING:

Since every client has their own unique hair needs, it’s important to first ask yours what they’re looking for and are in need of (for example, frizz control or

type

“As their hair doctor (as I like to call us), are you prescribing them products they’re going to have to really work in, or are you whipping up a cocktail that they’ll be able to quickly mix in their hair and let airdry as they’re running out the door? You have to understand the type of client that you’re working with, and that will determine the products and routine you suggest.” —YENE DAMTEW, DEVACURL EXPERT CURL COUNCIL MEMBER AND SALON OWNER

Curly (Type 3: A-C) These types of curls are slighly tighter and can come in many shapes and sizes. From looser ringlets to tight corkscrews, here are a few helpful techniques.

how to deal with how that curl is going to revert back and sit when you cut it is super important in knowing how to deal with cutting textured hair.” STYLING:

CUTTING:

volume). Then, help them create an easy and realistic product routine that they’ll be able to follow at home. “I always start off the conversation with, ‘What’s your current routine? What works for you? What products do you use?’ and other questions to further understand their lifestyle and how much time they have to put into their haircare routine,” says Yene Damtew, a member of DevaCurl’s expert curl council and salon owner based in Washington, D.C. “Based on that, I will teach them about the necessary products to target their hair goals, and show them how to properly apply them.”

When working with tighter curls, Damtew prefers dry cutting because that’s when hair is in its natural shape. That said, you need to consider the hair’s moisture level since that can affect the curl’s “springfactor,” which is how much the hair shrinks and springs up when you pull the curl down and let it go. “The springfactor is going to differ, so you have to leave a little wiggle room,” she says. “I do the majority of my shaping dry, and then perfect and refine my cut after it’s been moisturized and I’ve gone through the curl transformation process. But I suggest altering your technique depending on the curl’s density and tightness.” This shrinking effect is why it can take clients more time to grow out their hair (and it’s also the reason haircuts can sometimes be a not-so-pleasant experience!) “It can be scary if you’re cutting a tight curl and you end up with a result that’s significantly shorter than you expected,” says Quintieri. “Learning

Consult with your client about the type of finish (defined or undefined) and help them select the right products for their hair type. Start by applying the curl cream, gel or mousse with your fingers or a fine-toothed comb (smaller sections are key to ensure it’s evenly distributed). Then, scrunch the hair up for volume or work the product through the hair in a downward direction. To finish, work with a diffuser on low or medium heat, and lower air settings (low and slow ensures less frizz). Some stylists also prefer air-drying, but it’s all about the client’s preference. Use a finishing oil to seal their curls and add a touch of shine while also smoothing any flyaways and frizz. Tighter Curls and Coils (Type 4: A-C) When working with the tightest coils and ringlets, it’s important to remember that these can be both defined and undefined—depending on the client’s natural growth pattern and styling routine. Make sure to keep these factors in mind. salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020 43

Must-Have Products Curly Hair Solutions Dry Oil Elixir Packed with Omega 3, 6 and 9, this hydrating oil is perfect for finishing your client’s curls with brilliant shine.

DevaCurl Melt into Moisture Bring curls back to life with this hydrating and smoothing treatment packed with matcha butter, sweet almond oil and beet root extract. Wella Nutricurls Curlixir Balm This nourishing, leave-in balm offers the perfect amount of hold, definition and bounce to waves and curls.

type

figure out how to manipulate their hair so when it’s all cut and finished, all the different curl patterns look uniform,” she says, adding that this why some stylists like to blow-out the hair first or will make sure to evenly stretch the curls out when cutting different sections. STYLING:

CUTTING:

When working with an extremely tight curl pattern, Jackson says she sometimes blows out the hair first to be able to have more control, but the inclusion of this step ultimately depends on the client’s lifestyle and how often they wear their hair straight. “This is helpful when you need a bit more control,” she says. “Sometimes, the curl is so tight that there’s no accuracy when cutting it.” As a veteran hairstylist, one common mistake that Jackson notices is overtexturization. “A lot of hairstylists want to thin the hair out, whether it’s at the root or at the ends, and that’s a big no-no,” she says. “If you do it at the ends you’ll create more frizz, and if you do it at 44 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

the root the curl pattern will look frizzy.” Another important factor to consider is that curly clients can often have multiple curl patterns. Generally, you’ll see looser textures on the top of the head, tighter curls near the crown and then the loosest curls by the nape of the neck. With that in mind, Damtew emphasizes the importance of cutting with tension and stretching the curls out in order to make sure your cut is even. “You have to

Not all curly clients are going to want ultra-defined ringlets. Others may want to keep their curls lighter, undefined and more voluminous. Choose your products and techniques based on the style they want to achieve, and remember that when working with coarser and thicker 4-range hair, moisture is key. Help clients rehydrate their curls with thicker, creamier products. Similar to working with Type 3 curls, make sure to evenly apply the product throughout—every hair needs to be coated. Once you dry the hair, don’t forget about finishing! Use a curl oil to add an extra dose of shine and moisture, which will also minimize frizz. Regardless of the products or techniques you use, remember that your client should be able to go home and redo the look themselves. “As their hair doctor (as I like to call [us]), are you prescribing them products they’re going to have to really work in, or are you whipping up a cocktail that they’ll be able to quickly mix in their hair and let air-dry as they’re running out the door? You have to understand the type of client that you’re working with, and that will determine the products and routine you suggest.”

CO LLE CTIO NS

Summer

An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level.

Collections — OPULENCE

This striking collection plays between light and darkness with its use of loose textures, sharp cuts and vibrant tones.

HAIR Joseph I’Anson and Lisa Graham, Mark Leeson, U.K. MAKEUP Nikki Wolf WARDROBE STYLING M&R PHOTOS Richard Miles

46 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020 47

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; INSPIRE

With a creative interpretation of trends for spring/summer 2020, the Schwarzkopf Professional U.K. team combines sleek and airy textures with edgy cuts and colours in this powerful, ultra-feminine collection.

HAIR Schwarzkopf Professional U.K., led by creative director Tyler Johnston MAKEUP Claire Evans WARDROBE STYLING Clare Frith PHOTOS Chris Bulezuik

48 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020 49

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; PARISIAN COUTURE

The contemporary and haute style of Parisian fashion was put under a spotlight in this artistic collection that features bold shapes and textures.

50 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

HAIR Desmond Murray, Atherton Cox, U.K. MAKEUP Jo Sugar WARDROBE STYLING Deanne Lewis PHOTOS FPA

salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020 51

Collections — MOONDUST

This futuristic collection deﬁes gravity with its creative use of light and texture.

HAIR & WARDROBE STYLING Charlie Price, Beauty Underground, Denver, U.S. MAKEUP Nicholas Warne & Whitney Franklin PHOTOS Jake Thompson

52 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020 53

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; EVOCATIVE

Vibrant colour and volume fuse beautifully in this playful collection.

HAIR Joseph Ferraro, Joseph Ferraro, U.K. MAKEUP Maddie Austin WARDROBE STYLING Desiree Lederer PHOTOS Jamie Blanshard

54 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

Collections — TECHNICOLOUR DREAMS

Get ready for high shine and vibrant tones with this bold, sci-ﬁ inspired collection.

CONTESSA 2020 FINALIST, ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. MAKEUP Rachel Hunter WARDROBE STYLING Adrien Arnieri PHOTOS Ivan Otis

56 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020 57

CONTESSA 2020 WINNER, MASTER COLOURIST, MICHAEL SHIRE, TAZ HAIR CO., TORONTO

Unleash your creativity! N OW O PEN FO R ENTR I ES!

PRESENTED BY

D E A D LI N E S E P TE M B E R 9 |

EN T ER M O R E A N D S AV E 1 5%

S A L O N M A G A Z I N E.C A/C O N T E S S A

#ContessaAwards

Profile —

Making It Through the Storm As we continue to learn from (and adapt to) the reality of living life in a pandemic, we spoke with salon owners about their creative approaches to starting conversations with their teams, clients and community.

Shawna Russell owner of Filomena Salon & Spa, Coquitlam, B.C. Since salons in British Columbia were among the first to reopen, Shawna Russell played an integral role in helping lead the industry through so much uncertainty with an informative video she created and shared on her Instagram page (@hairbyshawna_russell). Offering a virtual tour of her revamped salon space— in which she removed six chairs in order to adhere to social distancing guidelines— the video features Russell sporting personal protective equipment (a face mask and face shield) in preparation for her salon’s reopening. “I think a lot of stylists were super nervous about how much time it would take [to clean their salon stations] 60 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

in between clients, and were also worried about being able to breathe [while wearing their PPE],” she says. “I got a great response from the video, and tried to do updates every couple of days just to let people know what was going on.” With a staff of 15 stylists,

Russell had to balance many emotions and concerns surrounding COVID-19. “It was important for us to be a cohesive team and all on the same page,” she says. “[During the closure] we all updated our certifications with Barbicide. Our team is super strong and like a family, so when you’re away from each other for so long, you really miss those work relationships. We now appreciate them even more because we’re having to lean more on each other for everyone’s health and safety.” In addition to prescreening clients with health-related questions, the team decided to conduct temperature checks as another layer of protection. “Before the

pandemic, I might have let a client keep their appointment if they weren’t feeling well, which would have put me at risk of getting sick. Now, I have a zero-tolerance policy, which I will be keeping—even after COVID,” says Russell. “As hairstylists, I think we’re standing up for ourselves more, and clients are pretty understanding of that.” Since her salon has now been reopened for more than a month, Russell says things are slowly getting back to normal. “It’s been different— that’s for sure. But it’s been awesome to be back with the team,” she says. “I feel like clients appreciate us a little more right now.” While the salon is fully booked for at least another month (Russell is booked until October!), the pandemic has taught her and her team the importance of balance. “Stylists need to take some personal time. Even though we just had all of this time off, [my advice is] don’t overwork yourself,” she says. “Before, I was doing 11-, 12- and 13-hour days and would feel overwhelmed and like I was going to crash. You want to fit everybody in but take your time, try not to get overwhelmed and pace yourself.”

PHOTOS: SHAWNA RUSSELL, INSTAGRAM, PAULINA TRUONG

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

Luis Pacheco

Medulla & Co, Toronto In Ontario, many salons were closed for more than three months. While there was a lot of initial uncertainty regarding how long the closures would last, no one could have guessed it would be late June before many would begin reopening their doors. During their salon’s closure, Pacheco (@luiscolourist) and his team decided to make a powerful statement on Instagram with their video, #WaitforUs, in which they asked people to wait for their hairstylists and avoid the urge to colour or cut their hair at home. “Being away from the salon, you can feel disconnected,” he says, “so I wanted to connect us as a team virtually and send a message to our clients that let them know we understood it was a scary time for everyone. The message was, ‘You’re thinking about us and we’re thinking about you, too.’” The idea began when clients started reaching out to inquire about purchasing professional colour kits. While some salons offered these during their closures, the Medulla & Co. team decided against it, opting to band together in a video as a way to help ease their clients’ concerns while also supporting the professional hair community. “We’re in a situation where we’ve lost a lot of control. Our ability to control the things that we do and the way we look has significantly changed and that can cause people to go into panic mode, which is what I saw happening,” he says. “We wanted to look

after our clients as much as we could, and help them not feel abandoned during this time of crisis. It’s so important that we all stand in solidarity.” To create the video, 20 members of his team submitted clips sharing heartfelt messages and words of encouragement that Pacheco edited together to create one cohesive and unified message. “From a visual perspective, I wanted it all to mesh together. I sent them all a guideline but told them to feel free to put in their own identity, which made it really difficult to edit. For so many of them, I could have used their whole monologue,” he says. “Putting it together was the emotional part. It all worked because I saw my team come together in a time when we needed to come together. I was so proud of them.”

Paulina and Samantha Truong

as offering private at-home or in-salon services during the pandemic’s stay-athome orders. Making a bold statement on their Instagram page (@bluegeminihairstudio), the team posted two graphics: Why We Don’t Send Clients Hair Colour? and Why We Don’t Do Private Service in Salon or at Home? “We wanted to stand behind our profession,” says Samantha. “When [the pandemic] is over, you will have to work extra hard to rebuild your business and not just try to get clients back in the door. You have to protect the industry.” After seeing a slew of salons across North America offering root touch-up kits, it motivated the Truongs to begin promoting root touch-

ups sprays as an alternative. “We understand that clients were anxious to get their roots done but we want those clients to come back to the salon [for these services],” says Paulina. As for the post about not offering private at-home or insalon services, the motivation came from their team. After receiving messages and requests from clients to offer these services, the salon didn’t think twice about posting in support of their team’s and clients’ health. “We were proud that our stylists stepped up to say no,” says Samantha. “They didn’t want to risk [the health of] clients, themselves and their families. It defeats the purpose of why salons closed in the first place.” While their salon has now reopened, it’s still not quite business as usual. “It’s probably going to take a good half a year to reorganize the flow of the salon again,” says Samantha. Paulina adds that it’s a good opportunity for their team to think about how they want to run the business differently and look at ways to improve it. “We always want to do better, so it’s going to give us an opportunity to evolve. A situation like this can teach you patience and help you come back to the salon with a fresh perspective.”

Blue Gemini Hair Studio, Edmonton, Alta.

After hearing concerns about COVID-19 from their team and clients, sibling powerhouse Paulina and Samantha Truong decided to close their salon a week before the provincial mandate. Being ahead of the curve, the Truongs took to social media to stand up for the hair community and speak out against selling professional colour kits to clients, as well salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020 61

G et the late s t in du s tr y news

B u il d a reward ing c a re e r

SalonMagazine.ca An d , of cou rse , se e s tu n n ing co lle c ti o ns! Find the te ch ni c al a dvi ce you crave

DISCOVER MOREâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;RIGHT AT YOUR FINGERTIPS SalonMag

Salon_Magazine

salonmagazine

SalonMagazine salonmagazine.ca / June 2018

Business —

The Cost of COVID-19

As salons reopen, many businesses are continuing to face financial hardship. We asked experts to share their tips for managing debt and expenses amidst these uncertain times.

Derrick Rutherford is the CEO and creative director of Valentini’s Hair Design in Guelph, Ont, and founder of The Rutherford Way, which provides prescriptive business and stylist coaching services for salons across Canada.

Cut Back “The past three months were a time to go through all our expenses and see where we could cut costs, and we would have never had the time before! For example, with products I’m going to look into options for buying in bulk to help reduce costs. We also changed our merchant terminal to save on fees.” —Lisa Dinh

Know Your Costs

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTOS: LISA DINH, DERRICK RUTHERFORD; ICONS: GETTY

“This was every salon’s opportunity to work out their costs per hour. We have a template, where you fill in all the blanks, divide by how many hours you’re open, and divide it by the number of stylists. With every stylist working, the cost per hour can go down. Work out your true cost per hour and add on what percentage of profit the salon needs, and how much everyone makes an hour so you can go in and restructure your pricing.” —Derrick Rutherford

Have a Plan “My plan is to go through our schedules and figure out how much we would make for each month; it helps me organize how I can cut down our debt. I made a spreadsheet of all our expenses and debt; I put it on paper so I could visually see what our debt is. For example, all salon owners are going to have to pay GST and HST, so I put it on paper so I can see it and slowly work on reducing the total—hopefully by the end of this year.” —Lisa Dinh

Maximize Your Money “If you’re a salon owner who applied for the $40,000 business loan that’s interest-free for two years, it’s a good idea to use it to pay off what you can on lines of credit or credit cards you may have. The interest you’re saving on a credit card, which can be as high as 19.99 per cent or $300-$400 per month, can be used toward paying off the loan. Plus, you only have to pay back $30,000—the first $10,000 is forgivable.” —Derrick Rutherford

Save, Save, Save “To try and get back on track, I’m opening another bank account where I can put some money to save for payment deferrals. Since there are so many expenses and bills, it would be smart to allocate money to certain categories. For example, GST and HST—all salon owners are behind on those payments. Even though the government has deferred it, we still have to pay it back. Moving forward, I’m going to take all of the services in a day, calculate how much taxes are on them and transfer that money into the separate account. That way I can slowly pay it off and not touch it. I know we’re all in this position where we’re going to be struggling to pay back these bills, but I think it’s smart to categorize and open an account to separate the money so we’re not spending it on other areas of the business. —Lisa Dinh Lisa Dinh is the owner of the Toronto-based salon, Lisa Dinh Hair Studio. She offers business consulting and hair colour education for salon owners and hairstylists.

“Every salon owner should be saving all of their extra money in case a second wave hits. It’s important for us to not only think about paying off everything we need to now, but to also have a financial security blanket in place for the future.” —LISA DINH

salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020 63

Discover how this hairstylist and salon owner found the perfect balance between nature and contemporary design in his Old Montreal salon.

BY KAROUN CHAHINIAN

Privé opened in 2015 and is the brainchild of David D’Amours, an editorial hairstylist and salon owner who has become known for his work with French-Canadian celebrities such as Celine Dion, Marie-Mai Bouchard and Charlotte Cardin. “I wanted to incorporate a very Scandinavian and contemporary design to my space,” says D’Amours. “I needed that sense of balance. It’s not very feminine, it’s not masculine. It’s neutral and welcoming.” COVID-Friendly Design With a passion for design, D’Amours spent countless hours planning every 64 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

detail of his salon. But nothing could prepare him for how much he would have to re-transform his space in light of the COVID-19 pandemic. “I made sure to initially take care of myself and reset,” he says. “But once I did, I knew I needed to start taking care of my baby—my salon. It was my mission for clients to be able to come back relaxed and stressfree because we’d be fully prepared.” Luckily for D’Amours, his 4,000 square-foot space makes social distancing measures easy to implement, but to ensure that all clients and stylists are safe at all times, he created custom plexiglass walls in between the shampooing stations, along with mobile

plexiglass walls that can be moved around the salon on busier days. “I knew I wanted to design them with wheels so we could easily create our own private sections within the salon,” he says. “If one stylist is doing extensions while another is doing a blowdry two metres down, it’s an easy solution.” In order to not clash with his sleek design, D’Amours opted for a modern and minimalistic look with the use of stainless steel. Throughout the salon, they’ve set up hand sanitizing stations, but D’Amours felt it was important to also add a sink by the reception area so clients are able to wash their hands.

PHOTOS: ADRIEN WILLIAMS, DAVID D’AMOURS

Interiors — PRIVÉ

Down to Earth

D’AMOURS ADDED PLEXIGLASS WALLS BETWEEN EACH SINK AS ADDED SAFETY FOR HIS CLIENTS.

DETAILS Opened in 2015 SPACE 4,000 square-feet STATIONS 25 TEAM 25 BRANDS Kérastase L’Oréal Professionnel Shu Uemura DESIGNER Blazys Gerard INSTAGRAM @privepardaviddamours WEBSITE privepardaviddamours.com

“With a sink, clients will be able to come in and immediately feel clean and refreshed,” he says. Lights, Camera, Action With his editorial experience, D’Amours has a firm understanding of how important proper lighting is when it comes to hair. With that in mind, he made it imperative to install “beauty lights” at every station to ensure the hair looks as beautiful as possible—in the eyes of the client and the stylist. “I would often see clients who wouldn’t want to look at themselves in the mirror because of how harsh the lights would shine down on them,” he

says. “The customer needs to feel that they have good lighting. I think it makes a big difference.” With the increase of social media marketing in salons, D’Amours adds that proper lighting can completely elevate their digital presence. The two-panel “beauty lights” are also not too harsh and offer the best colour balance by not being overly cool or warm. Colour balance was important to him because stylists need to see the exact tones they’re working with, whether they’re styling or colouring. According to D’Amours, who is also the Canadian editorial director for Kérastase, proper lighting increases the quality of any stylist's work and these lights are often used by professional makeup artists. Additionally, D’Amours set up each styling station to have space in the back to safely store styling tools. This feature was also imperative to keep his space slick, clean and hazard-free. Warm and Welcome Being based in Old Montreal inspired D’Amours to incorporate more natural and raw elements into the salon’s design, with his choice of colours, natural elements and furnishings. When he first walked into the space, he noticed the natural stone walls and

instantly felt welcomed. He knew he didn’t want to cover them, but showcase them instead through the use of other nature-inspired touches like wood, cool-toned marble and a neutral colour scheme. “I wanted to give homage to nature— the space feels very deep and has a lot of charisma, which was very important to me,” he says. “We feel very safe and connected here.” Comfort was a big style motivator for D’Amours. He even named his salon Privé (private) because his mission was for his customers to walk into his space and almost feel separated from everything else going on—like an oasis. He even incorporated this idea through his design—for example, with the delicate white cage wall between the entrance and styling area. “I wanted to create an illusion of privacy rather than a fully open space,” he says. D’Amours worked with interior design company Blazys Gerard to bring his vision to life and hand-picked most of his furnishings from various retailers, including Quebecbased Element de Base and CB2 in Toronto. “I wanted it to look very sleek and that’s why it was also important to have these different elements of nature to bring everything together and also add more warmth to balance that modern edge,” he says. “I’m so proud of it. After five years, it’s just getting better and better.” salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020 65

#SalonStrong —

Better Together WE KNOW TIMES HAVE BEEN HARD, BUT HEARING YOUR ONGOING SUCCESS STORIES HAS BEEN NOTHING SHORT OF INSPIRING. IN THIS NEW SECTION #SALONSTRONG, WE’RE SHARING YOUR STORIES AND POSTS TO HELP UPLIFT AND ENCOURAGE OUR COMMUNITY. TAG US ON INSTAGRAM FOR A CHANCE TO BE FEATURED!

Anna Pacitto, co-owner of Pure Salon, Montreal In general, it has been difficult, weird, and emotionally and physically draining, yet GREAT all at the same time. Our numbers so far have been good, and most of our team members are so charged with positive energy and so willing to help in making this work, that everyone is producing beautiful results. They are focused and giving it all they’ve got! It’s not easy for the team to work with all these new measures, and knowing we have huge bills to pay. That said, I feel that so much positivity has come out of this situation. This is a wake-up call for the world. I feel confident that we are all realizing that we all need to make changes to the way we live, view the world and care for our planet now for the benefit of future generations. Our plan is to maintain some of these changes (strict sanitation rituals, organized and more effective scheduling, and more regular advanced training) even after COVID ends. Let’s all take this seriously, and collectively we’ll make a difference.

James Abu-Ulba, artistic director for Spa Utopia & Salon, Vancouver

@leroy_ludovic_officiel Accept the change. A new reality is in front of us. And we have choice to accept it or not. But accepting it and living fully with it becomes a more powerful weapon than anything because we humans have the ability to adapt. And accepting novelty opens doors for many projects. Are you ready? 66 salonmagazine.ca / Summer 2020

@josievilay They say it takes 18+ days to develop a habit. Going into day 3 and I’m getting use to the new normal & all the cleaning in between already. P.S.S. Lift your face shield up to let a little air in once in a while, aka between mixing new lightener to help de-fog your mask

@robinbacon Hey friends! I got masks made and they were too big. I tried one of these hair ponytail hooks and it worked perfectly to keep the mask secure and not crush my face and take the tension off my ears!!! Hope this tip helps

@chattershairsalon Vogue that PPE girl Our stylists are so pumped to get back to their passion in style! Here’s @cindyduplantis showing off her new gear

PHOTOS: ANNA PACITTO, JAMES ABU-ULBA, INSTAGRAM

When things were still very uncertain, we wanted our staff to know exactly what we were preparing for the “back to work” plan. Easing staff anxiety was a huge consideration, as was working with an individual’s comfort on returning to work. Then and now, we believe that giving your team members grace is key, as is acknowledging that this can be very scary for some people. Work with each person’s comfort level and support them through this process. Team members should also do the same with their employers. Working together is so important as this is everyone’s first time through something like this. Remember: We are allowed to do what we love again. Keep that at the forefront and know that the masks, new policies and procedures are just a heightened level of experience. Much love to all owners and hairdressers. We got this!

y b d e Vot

! u o Y READER’S CHOICE AWARDS

WINNER 2020

2020 BEST BONDING SYSTEM DEFY DAMAGE

• 80% less breakage* • 5X stronger hair* • Increased & more even lift** • Evens porosity for better color deposit • Maintains over 90% of color vibrancy*** *Against combing breakage on damaged hair during heat styling; when using Defy Damage Shampoo and ProSeries 2 vs. a non-conditioning shampoo **When lightening ***After 10 shampoos; when using Defy Damage Shampoo and ProSeries

2020 BEST DEEP CONDITIONER

K-PAK COLOR THERAPY LUSTER LOCK TREATMENT • Deeply repairs and nourishes color-treated hair • Locks in color vibrancy • Instantly adds shine

READER’S CHOICE AWARDS

WINNER 2020

JOICO.CA

2020 Joico® Laboratories, imported by Piidea Canada, Mississauga, ON, L5N 6C3