Food Lifestyle Magazine Spring 2024

spring

This season's best places to eat, stay, shop and visit in the South West

Hello

You're probably thinking this looks rather like Food Magazine, and you'd be right! What you're holding is a rebirth of the magazine for a new era ...

When we launched Food Magazine 20 years ago it was the first local food magazine in the UK. Now, 200 issues later, it's evolved into Food Lifestyle to feed the interests of those who, like us, not only enjoy good food but also delight in outdoor adventures, wellness experiences, beautiful interiors, fine wines, arts and crafts, and finding off‑the‑beaten‑track joys.

With sustainability, authenticity and independence at its core, Food Lifestyle reveals the best experiences to be had in the South West each season – it's a food‑lifestyle bible for the discerning.

Our aim is to help you find the coolest places to stay, eat, shop and visit, and sort the creative, beautiful and unusual from the mass‑market experiences. You can also visit food‑mag.co.uk for town and area guides, curated weekends away, day‑trip ideas and quality shopping.

To make sure you don't miss anything, get the magazine delivered to your door via our subscription service (see page 19) and sign up to the weekly email newsletter.

‘A food‑lifestyle bible for the discerning’

We've also invigorated the places you can pick up the magazine – see some of our stockists on page 98. And drop us a line at ideas@saltmedia.co.uk if you think your store, hotel, holiday cottage business or restaurant should stock the magazine. If you'd like to see your business featured in Food Lifestyle, do contact the commercial team (details on page 9).

I'd love to hear your thoughts on this evolution; email us at ideas@saltmedia.co.uk or drop us a message on social.

Jo Rees Editorial director and founder, Salt Media

FEATURES REGULARS

20. Queen of Glastronomy

Rising star chef Ayesha Kalaji shares her story and favourite haunts in Glastonbury

28. Ruralcool revolution

Rosanna Rothery explores the phenomenon and finds out how they're doing it at Coombeshead Farm

34. Tastemakers: Emma Gibbons

The north Devon pop artist on Barbie, collaboration and coastal living

50. Five of the best Lifestyle stores in the South West and spa breaks in Cornwall

66. Trencherman's Tutorial

Leading chefs on the perfect way to poach an egg

70. Meet the chef: Ben Tunnicliffe

Meet the man cooking soulful food in a 300‑year‑old Newlyn pub

72. Kasae Fraser

Find out what the MasterChef: The Professionals finalist is up to at Flute in Bath

74. Weekenders: east Devon

Curated spring breaks around Axminster, Honiton and Exmouth

84. The Full Works: Watergate Bay Hotel

How to squeeze every last drop of deliciousness from 24 hours at the South West's coolest surf hotel

9. Meet the team

10. Ten things to do this season

Subscribe

Subscribe to Food Lifestyle and never miss an issue. Turn to page 19.

41. Eating out

We visit Nancarrow Farm, The Queen's Arms, Tintagel Brewery Bar & Bistro, and Harbour House

57. Notes from a Michelin kitchen

59. Weekend cooking

65. Tasting notes with Susy Atkins

97. Food Lifestyle directory

98. Stockists

89 Win!

Enter our competitions for your chance to win: a getaway at The Greenbank Hotel in Falmouth, worth £300 (p89); a collection of goodies from Trevethan Distillery and Navas, worth £183 (p91); a rural stay at The Collective at Woolsery, worth £375 (p93); and a luxury hamper from Trewithen Dairy, worth £50 (p94).

Br o w ni e s and pa n ca k e s

an d h ot c ho co l ate s

and

Everything’s better WITH

C REAM TE AS and

‘Zhuzh up your wardrobe with Hollywoodvintage style at Deadly is the Female in Frome, Somerset’

‘Switch Italian aperitifs for a South West equivalent: Koneva Cornish Aperitif from Trevethan Distillery is great.’

Claire Fegan

‘Now's the time to visit the Isles of Scilly when it's quiet but the natural landscape is bursting into life.’

Tamsin Powell

‘Upgrade your G&T with a Thunderflower English Orchard gin, distilled in Teignmouth. It's just won a World Gin Award for its apple, citrus and warming spice flavours.’

Lara Watson

‘Book an at‑home cookery course with St Ives Cookery School (chef Jeffrey Robinson's new project). The bricks‑and‑mortar school opens in summer.’

Abi Manning

Outi Pieski brings her fine threads to Tate St Ives this spring

Image: Document Photography

10 Things

to do this season

Your bucket list of South West events and culture from March to May

1. SEE SOME ART Feed your soul with a visual feast. In Cornwall, the Eden Project (edenproject. com) is delving into the cultural ceremonies surrounding food production and harvest. Acts of Gathering features pieces by international artists, from corn dollies and painted murals to repurposed plastic containers (until April 14 – Eden admission fee applies). At Tate St Ives (tate.org.uk) Sámi native Outi Pieski explores identity, culture and environment through traditional craft practices (February 10 to May 6). And on April 16, Dorchester Corn Exchange (dorchesterarts.org.uk) presents a 90‑minute film exploring the work of master portrait artist John Singer Sargent, whose practices at the turn of the 20th century have influenced modern art, culture and fashion. ››

2. FORAGE FOR NETTLES ‘Nettles, those spiky green plants that often cause a prickly surprise, are not just pesky weeds; they're a treasure trove of nutrients and culinary versatility,’ says Totally Wild UK's (totallywilduk.co.uk) James Wood. ‘Now is the time to gather them, and you'll find some particularly massive leaves and luscious shoots in the South West.’

Nettles can be transformed into a variety of delicious and nutritious dishes. Blanch in boiling water for a few minutes to neutralise the sting and soften the leaves, then add to soups, salads, pesto and even stir‑fry dishes. Nettles can also be dried and powdered for tea or added to smoothies. Identify nettles by their triangular leaves, with serrated edges and prominent veins, arranged in an alternate pattern on the stem. The most distinguishing feature, of course, is the presence of stinging hairs. Wear gloves and look for young nettles with tender stems.

Find James's recipe for nettle soup at food‑mag.co.uk.

3. JOIN THE COFFEE CREW Our sister publication the Indy Coffee Guide's latest roundup of the best speciality coffee shops in the south of England has just launched. Get the new guide and merch, including this straight‑talking tee, at indycoffeeguide.co.uk.

4. CRAFT WITH SEAWEED Try your hand at collecting and prepping seaweed for use in art prints, beauty products and food recipes. Fowey and Lyme Regis‑based artists and stylists, Julia Bird and Melanie Molesworth (molesworthandbird.com), show us how with a DIY face mask to try at food‑mag.co.uk. ››

Photograph from Seaweed by Julia Bird and Melanie Molesworth, published by Pavilion

Image: Polly Wreford

Mark Hix

CMAT

Gentleman’s Dub Club

&

Darts

co.uk) near Exeter for Easter indulgence with a difference. The chocolatiers source ethically farmed cacao from small co‑operatives across the globe, then roast and process it, by hand, into luscious bars and truffles.

GO TO A FESTIVAL Join Jack Savoretti, Morcheeba, Courtney Pine, Dee Dee Bridgewater and 20,000 music lovers at Cheltenham Jazz Festival (May 1‑6, cheltenhamfestivals.com/jazz), or soak up the family‑friendly vibe of Shindig at Somerset's Dillington Estate (May 23‑26, shindigfestival. co.uk), which celebrates its tenth birthday with a dress‑up theme of Magical Creatures. In Cornwall, Healey's Cyder Farm hosts the adults‑only Rattler Fest (April 19‑21, rattler‑fest.co.uk) with headliners Scouting For Girls, East 17 and funny guys Dick & Dom. ››

6.

5. DO EASTER CHOC IN STYLE Head to Cow

Cacao at

Farm (dartsfarm.

Image: Matt Austin

PREMIUM BBQ SEASONINGS

Flavour-forward spice mixes and meat rubs to supercharge your spring barbecues.

instagram @cut to the smoke | cuttothesmoke.co.uk

Wiltshire, TV chef Max

and publican Ethan Davids (above) are on a mission to revive the great British boozer. Visit their latest opening, The Wellington Arms (thewellingtonarms.com) in Marlborough, for pickled eggs, ales served in handle glasses and plenty of nostalgia.

For an uber‑luxe stay, bookmark Number One Bruton (numberonebruton.com), which will have five additional rooms when renovations on the newly acquired pub next door finish in summer. Stay over after visiting its new restaurant –opening this spring – at the former Osip site.

Fans of Freddy Bird's cooking at Little French in Bristol should check out his new venture in Clifton, 1 York Place (1yorkplace.co.uk), which opened at the end of 2023.

Dive into spring fork‑first at The Greenbank Hotel (below) in Falmouth (greenbank‑hotel. co.uk) on March 27 and 28, when head chef Bobby Southworth will deliver seasonal dishes at his famed Taste of Cornwall suppers. ››

7. TRY SOMETHING NEW In

Halley

Image: PixelRain

8. LIVE LIKE A BIRD Take to the secluded coastline of south Devon in search of Wildcomfort (wildcomfort.co.uk) this spring and discover a very different nature‑led escape. The collection of sustainable birdhouse cabins, in private woodland, overlook Start Bay and are just a few minutes' walk from Blackpool Sands beach.

9. TAKE A WINE TOUR Experience the English wine revolution up close at Swanaford Estate (swanaford.com) in Devon's Teign Valley. The ten‑acre vineyard, six miles from Exeter, produces superb sparkling and still wines from grapes grown on its south‑east‑facing slopes.

The 90‑minute Tour + Tasting Experiences (£14.50 per person) run on Wednesdays at 2pm, Fridays at 5.30pm and Saturdays at 11.30am, when visitors are taken on a walk through the vineyard before trying four of Swanaford's wines in the tasting barn. Head to the website to book a tour – kids and dogs are welcome too.

Images: Rebecca Douglas Photography

10. GET FOOD LIFESTYLE DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR Each season, Food Lifestyle reveals the best of the South West for discerning readers in the region and beyond. Every recommendation is a guaranteed good one as our team of writers live in the South West and know what's great.

Treat yourself to the ultimate insider's guide and become one of our gang of in‑the‑know subscribers – or treat someone special to a gift that'll deliver a year's worth of adventures.

The four seasonal issues cover spring, summer (out mid May), autumn (mid August) and Christmas (mid October).

An annual subscription of four magazines delivered to the door costs £25. Order your subscription now at food‑mag.co.uk and don't miss a thing.

You can also subscribe to the weekly Food Lifestyle email newsletter at food‑mag.co.uk and get new finds delivered to your inbox.

Queen of Glastronomy

Ayesha Kalaji only launched her first restaurant a few years ago, yet has already received more recognition than most chefs achieve in their entire career. Kathryn Lewis caught up with the unconventional chef to chat culture, MasterChef and cooking for fairies

Images: Neil Juggins and Kate Field

Part of the exodus of London chefs who fled to the South West during the pandemic, Ayesha Kalaji is killing it in the countryside. Since opening Queen of Cups in Glastonbury in 2021, she's been awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand and been shortlisted for two accolades: as Best Newcomer in the Estrella Damm Top 50 Gastropubs gongs and as a Best Chef finalist in the Food Reader Awards. Her appearance on MasterChef: The Professionals at the end of 2023 drew nationwide attention to her unique blend of Middle Eastern flavours and French techniques. With a new following and raised profile, the purple‑haired chef is ready to prove there's more to Middle Eastern cooking than Ottolenghi.

Growing up in rural North Wales, Ayesha used cooking as a means of connecting with her Middle Eastern heritage. While Anglesey didn't have a large Arab community at that time, summers were spent in Jordan where aunts and grandmothers would teach her traditional recipes and share the dishes of their family forebears. Yet, despite food being an important part of her upbringing and culture, it wasn't until much later that she decided to pursue cooking as a career.

‘I was studying Middle Eastern Politics, Language and History in London but was hugely dissatisfied with my degree,’ says Ayesha. ‘Not sure what to do in terms of a career, I went home for Christmas and it was as Mum and I were following a Leiths recipe to prepare the turkey that she suggested I apply to its cookery school.’ ››

This pivotal moment was at the start of the 2010s, when TV's cooking landscape was shifting and female chefs such as Gizzi Erskine began breaking the mould. ‘Gizzi was glamorous, cool and hanging out with The Libertines. I thought: maybe this is for me?,’ says Ayesha.

During her training at Leiths, Ayesha did a stint at The Palomar in Soho, and it was there that she went to work after graduating from the prestigious culinary school. She stayed in London for another decade, working her way through the ranks at Middle‑Eastern‑style restaurants such as The Good Egg and Bubala, which had another common theme: strong female role models.

It was the opportunity to collaborate with another brilliant woman, close friend and hospitality pro Mary‑Elizabeth O'Neill, that lured Ayesha from London to rural Somerset. Mary‑Elizabeth had left London to open a B&B in the fiercely independent town of Glastonbury but was struggling to recommend evening dining options to her guests. When the chance to run a 17th‑century coaching inn in the centre of town came up, she knew exactly who to call.

‘It was a whirlwind,’ says Ayesha. ‘I viewed the pub in February, quit my job in March, moved to Glastonbury in April and opened Queen of Cups in May.’

‘It's amazing to see so many badass women killing it in the kitchen’

‘When I was starting out, there were definitely a few male colleagues who were dismissive of my abilities because I was a woman. One said I'd never be more than a glorified salad chef,’ she says. ‘After experiencing my fair share of sexism, I was drawn to work under female head chefs and I've been lucky enough to cook alongside some of the greats such as Juliette O'Sullivan and Helen Graham.’

Ayesha describes female‑led kitchens as generally calmer and less ego‑driven: ‘Because we've all had that struggle, there's a sisterhood among female chefs. The industry has changed so much in the past ten years and it's amazing to see so many badass women killing it in the kitchen.’

She was more than ready for the new challenge: ‘I'd lost my love for London. I'd had a recipe published in The Guardian, but it was credited to the restaurant instead of me. As soon as I saw the pub in Glastonbury I knew it was one of those opportunities you have to grab with both hands.’

Ayesha's upbringing in North Wales set her up for country life in the South West, although she didn't realise quite how rural Glastonbury would turn out to be. The location of this first solo venue has given her access to the kind of seasonal ingredients and producers London chefs only dream of. Her signature style combining Middle Eastern inspiration with local ingredients and French flourish is only possible thanks to the relationships she and her team have developed with the area's producers.

‘The South West is a chef's paradise; the quality of local produce is astounding. The provenance is unlike anything I ever experienced in London,’ she says. ‘I work with five local farmers who text me each week to let me know what's available. My butcher is five doors down and I can point to where the cows graze from my window. I also have a network of local foragers who supply mushrooms I would have spent an arm and a leg on in London.’ ››

As well as being synonymous with one of the world's biggest music festivals, Glastonbury is also known for its eclectic inhabitants – something Ayesha has fully embraced. In fact, Queen of Cups' first booking was a group of druids, and attendees of the town's annual Faery Ball and biannual Goddess Conference head to the pub for

‘The day I stop being surprised by any of it is the day

The restaurant quickly built a dedicated following of locals and visitors, as well as national media attention, so it was only going to be a matter of time before Ayesha popped up on the radar of the ' team. She appeared on the show in autumn 2023, making it to the quarter finals and receiving fantastic feedback

‘The day I stop being surprised by any of it is the day I've spent too long here’

‘It was such a great experience – it still hasn't quite sunk in that it actually happened,’ she says. ‘The feedback from the public has been overwhelmingly positive. Of course, there have been some unkind comments, but from the start I made a concerted effort to stay away from social media to protect my mental health.’ Queen of Cups has been packed out since she appeared on the show, with lots of customers popping their heads into the open kitchen to congratulate Ayesha. So, what's next for the rising star?

‘Queen of Cups will always be my baby, but taking part in the competition made me crave more – I want to write cookbooks, make TV programmes and show people there's more to Middle Eastern food than kebabs, falafel and hummus,’ she says.

Nothing too ambitious then. Yet, given the almost overnight success of her first project and the quality of her cooking, there's no reason to doubt Ayesha's got it in her. ››

Ayesha's Glastonbury

The chef's favourite insider finds

The King Arthur

If I have an evening off, I'll go to The King Arthur to catch live music and see what's on tap. They have about 20 different lines so there's always an interesting local ale or cider to try. You meet the most amazing people there; I've been drawn into conversations with total strangers that last for hours. The pub quiz is great too.

The Crown Hotel

For something to eat in town, I'll head to the newly refurbished Crown Hotel. Head chef Dan Domprasong crafts incredible Thai food such as spicy Asian sausage with pickled ginger and tamarind sauce. It's also a great spot for breakfast.

Stephens Butchers

I love Louis and the team at Stephens Butchers. Nothing is too weird for them: last week they sourced llama meat (for llama shawarma, obviously) and Louis is pretty sure he can track down camel for me next. Don't leave without picking up one of their incredible steak pies or sausage rolls.

Curtain Pole Interiors

The fabrics and wallpapers are gorgeous at this design shop. The team recently re‑covered the cushions at the restaurant and they're stunning. I often visit just to ogle the sumptuous wallpapers – I've got my eye on a gold and white winged‑lynx print.

Fingers and Thumbs

In The Gauntlet shopping centre there's a lovely jeweller called Mel who owns Fingers and Thumbs with his partner Marie. He's an absolute wizard and has managed to work miracles on some items I thought were beyond repair.

Ruralcoolrevolution

Coombeshead Farm near Launceston is at the forefront of a restaurant trend connecting diners to a more sustainable way of life – and without a 1970s Laura Ashley smock in sight. Rosanna Rothery got a taste of the phenomenon

Image: Guy Harrop

Cottagecore has taken over the internet with its aesthetic depicting rural life as a series of romantic vignettes to be experienced while sporting tiered skirts and a crocheted shawl. However, deep in the South West countryside, a sibling movement has emerged with a similar vibe but which is rooted in food and dining.

Unlike the escapist daydream of cottagecore that fetishises country living, ruralcool is less about wafting through a potager in linen and more about donning wellies for a stomp through a working farm to meet the animals whose relations you'll be eating for dinner.

Examples of the phenomenon include the newly Michelin starred Crocadon (crocadon.farm) in St Mellion in Cornwall, a 120‑acre regenerative farm that lets guests feast on an unusual tasting menu amid the cosy informality of a converted

cowshed. Another Cornish member of the tribe is Nancarrow Farm (nancarrowfarm.co.uk) in St Allen, a restaurant on an organic farm. Just over the border in Devon is The Farmers Arms at Woolsery (woolsery.com), a dining pub with suites and cottages which harvests ingredients from its regenerative farm.

However, the forerunner of the movement has been Coombeshead Farm (coombesheadfarm.co.uk)

near Launceston in Cornwall. When it opened in 2016, the restored dairy farm – a joint venture between chefs Tom Adams and April Bloomfield –was one of the first of a new generation of British chef‑run farm restaurants.

Originally, the Coombeshead experience was about communal dining in its 18th‑century farmhouse, feeding guests produce from the farm. Then the dream got bigger and evolved to include a restaurant, a bakery (which now supplies sourdough to some of the best restaurants in the UK), an orchard, farmshop, self‑catered cottage and four cosy guestrooms in a converted grain store.

Clockwise from left Tom Adams at Coombeshead Farm; Dan Cox of Crocadon; dessert from farm grown produce at The Farmers Arms in Woolsery

Image: Matt Austin

Image: Rebecca Dickson

Images: Guy Harrop and Charles McKay

However, dinner and B&B on the 66‑acre estate doesn't just involve feasting on exquisite homegrown produce in a rural environment; it also fulfils any secret rustic‑romantico fantasies you may be harbouring.

Fantasy made flesh

On arrival, a quick tour of the farmstead is enough to convince you you've arrived in a pastoral paradise: encounter snuffling Mangalitza and Middle White pigs, inhale the aroma of loaves bronzing in the bakery, feast your eyes on rolling meadows and lust after rows of homemade ferments, pickles and preserves.

Its rural vibe harks back to simpler times when people were more in tune with nature, and emphasis was put on traditional skills such as farming, foraging, baking and fermenting. The ‘cool’ bit hails from a young and enthusiastic team who relish putting a modern twist on the kind of recipes, skills and crafts with which their great grannies would have been familiar.

Contemporary artists' handiwork, including beautiful pottery and bespoke prints, is also part of the appeal. Guests can even try their hand at some of these skills in workshops which include breadmaking, butchery, printmaking, drawing and painting.

A feast for the senses

Dinner at Coombeshead is served in a converted barn where sheepskin rugs, dark wood, earthenware pots and traditional farmhouse crockery are so tantalisingly tactile you'd be forgiven for running your fingertips over every surface.

The set menu (adapted for vegetarians and vegans) is an exquisite education for the palate. Each forkful bursts with flavours of the farm and vegetables and herbs, grown in the polytunnel, run the gamut of tastes from astringent and spicy to sweet and tart.

Meat is reared and butchered on site before being utilised in dishes such as Mangalitza cheek with artichoke cream, radicchio and bacon. The rare breed takes 18 months to mature so builds up flavour, each cut giving diners the unusual opportunity to experience pork as it used to be (a creamy red meat, not a white meat).

Puddings showcase joint skills of gardener and chef and include the likes of a gloriously tangy jostaberry sorbet with crème fraîche and grape granita. ››

Left Pickles, sourdough and prepared food at Coombeshead Farm

Spirit of rustic loveliness

Each detail at Coombeshead turns an overnight stay in the farmhouse or one of the Grain Store rooms into the charming utopia of your daydreams. Thoughtful touches, such as dried flowers picked in the grounds and a welcome tipple of homemade earl‑grey gin, do a great job of getting visitors in the spirit of rustic loveliness. Add a sporadic phone signal (you might get a bar in the front field or near the circle of trees in the garden) and it's a rare chance to disengage from the relentless dopamine trap of digital media in favour of simplicity, nature and cosiness.

Breakfast is a sensational event, and not to be skipped. Alongside homemade goodies (yogurt, Ashcombe cheese, muesli, granola, seasonal preserves, black bee honey, kombucha, apple

juice and sourdough) are fresh‑from‑the‑kitchen surprises. Hot‑smoked beef sausage, streaky bacon, buttery brioche laden with jostaberry preserve, malt loaf, and kale and cheese galette would set up any ploughman for a day in the fields.

Follow the morning's feast with a jaunt to experience the real romance of food reared and grown in a Cornish valley: Romney sheep, Red Devon cattle, black bees, guineafowl and broods of chickens scratching about in the woods. A walk to Lewannick for a pint in The Archer Arms or a short drive to The Springer Spaniel in Treburley for lunch takes this rustic reverie next level.

Don't leave Coombeshead without taking home a piece of the action. Sourdough and a malt loaf from the bakery, plus homemade pickles, preserves, candles and kombuchas from the farm shop are reminders of timeless simplicities.

Above Bedrooms at Coombeshead Farm

Images: Frankie Thomas

Take a ruralcool roadtrip

Crocadon, St Mellion, Cornwall

Dishes are presented with theatre at this Michelin starred restaurant, including a detailed explanation of how each ingredient made its journey from farm plot to plate. Dinner at Crocadon stimulates the brain as much as the palate, while unusual crops – Asturian tree cabbage, douglas fir, crosnes and strawberry myrtle – challenge notions of the range of edibles that can be grown on a Cornish farm. Ex‑L'Enclume chef Dan Cox cooks with rare and heritage‑breed cattle and sheep and favours traditional skills such as fermenting, pickling and curing to use up gluts of produce.

Nancarrow Farm, St Allen, Cornwall

Visit this picturesque working farm to feast on its produce in a beautiful barn. It doesn't operate as a normal restaurant; instead guests can book one of the regular farm suppers or even hold an event in the barn. A series of simple rustic buildings and wagons are also available for the night and come with a seriously good breakfast. Read our review on page 42.

The Farmers Arms, Woolsery, Devon

The Farmers Arms is part of The Collective at Woolsery, a curation of authentic rural projects which includes the dining pub where head chef Ian Webber fashions modern British dishes from own grown and reared native plants and heritage breeds. The pub is flanked by a regenerative farm, quirky village store, gourmet fish and chip shop, plus guest rooms, suites and cottages. Enter our competition on page 93 to win dinner and a stay.

Clockwise from left Delicious morsels at Crocadon; Ian Webber of The Farmers Arms foraging for ingredients; social event at Nancarrow Farm

Image: Matt Austin

TASTEMAKERS

Emma Gibbons

She's the glittering queen of pop art whose work has been snapped up by a host of celebs including Barbie's Margot Robbie. Rosanna Rothery quizzed the artist on her life in the South West

Images: Guy Harrop

For pop artist Emma Gibbons, all that glitters seems to be turning into gold. The mixed media artist is fast becoming a name in the contemporary art world for her shimmering artworks made from pill capsules, glitter and precious materials. Her bling‑tastic pieces adorn the homes of celebs such as Zoe Ball, Danny Dyer and Dawn French.

Emma's artwork became seriously cool in 2023 thanks to her solo show BARBIECORE at ME London. The exhibition was featured in the likes of Harper's BAZAAR and Hello! and followed the sale, in 2022, of Bad Barbie (a vintage profile of Barbie complete with swooshy ponytail) to Hollywood actress Margot Robbie.

At her studio in Barnstaple, north Devon, Emma's exuberance is expressed in trademark fruity‑coloured lollies and Chanel perfume bottles plenished with glimmering capsules. She also makes gleaming resin cakes and framed feelgood slogans. The work, on the surface, strikes you as riotously colourful and cheeky, yet beneath the glossy exterior it opens a more serious dialogue about consumerism, addiction and excess.

Emma's creative journey began with an art degree at London College of Printing and an MA at Camberwell College of Art which prepared her for various roles within the art world, including a seven‑year stint with Damien Hirst. It was while

working for Hirst that she developed her current fascination with pill capsules which she says serve as miniature vehicles for colour and texture and have a fascinating 3D quality that vibrates with modernity. She combines them with resin, glitter and precious jewels to become a medium for her creations.

You come from a Cornish family with links to pirates – how has that affected your work?

I have always been obsessed with pirates, treasure and finding things, and that magpie tendency for miniature shiny things is reflected in my work. As a child I'd dig around in the garden hoping to find precious gems and jewels. Even when I studied painting, I would bury crystals within the pictures.

More recently I read Elizabeth Gilbert's book Big Magic which talks about the jewels buried within you and how creativity allows you to excavate them. That's a really beautiful concept.

How did it feel having Margot Robbie buy your artwork?

Seeing my art resonating with people for many different reasons is really fantastic. Having celebrity clients is the icing on the cake and it was absolutely marvellous that Margot Robbie bought my Bad Barbie ››

‘Pop respondartists to the culture around them – whether that's a Barbie movie or Covid’

What was it like working for Damien Hirst at his studio in Ilfracombe?

Very inspiring. Sometimes you'd take a moment and catch yourself, and think, Wow, this has come out of one person's imagination Back then I didn't think I wanted to be a full‑time artist. I was happy working behind the scenes but then my daughter came along and I needed something that would fit with my new lifestyle. My art became my side hustle and then it developed into a full‑time career.

What does spring hold in store for you?

I'll be making more lollies. I always feel rejuvenated with the first whiff of spring. Work changes with the seasons and in spring people buy the more saccharine pieces; in winter they tend to buy the darker pieces.

What is the secret to artistic success?

It's about playing to your strengths. During my years working in galleries and selling work I realised what people want. They're on the lookout for something extra that's not run‑of‑the‑mill, something that pushes the boundaries. Unless you have that quality, your work will just sit there on the gallery wall. People may enjoy looking at it but getting them to buy it is a whole different kettle of fish.

I went to prestigious art colleges but I never felt I was the best at drawing and painting. It was only during my foundation degree that I realised it's possible to make things by assembling random materials.

What does your perfect weekend look like?

It would have to be at Watergate Bay Hotel [read our review on page 84], a place where luxury meets the wilderness. You're in this atmospheric location where you can go for windy walks but you're also just a stone's throw from a spa, pool, great food and the comfiest beds imaginable. It's fantastic to leave work behind and be somewhere windswept and rugged, yet enjoy the kind of service you'd get in London.

Where do you like to shop?

I do like going to London, but here in the South West, Exeter with its little markets and galleries is fabulous. There's always a lovely atmosphere on Cathedral Green.

What's next?

When I first made the transition to being a full‑time artist I would've been over the moon at my current level of success. However, when you arrive at what you thought would be the pinnacle of your dreams, you set your sights on the next thing.

As a creative person you always want to manifest new ideas. I think the world is ready for artwork that challenges and isn't conventional; artists like Damien Hirst have laid that path.

Pop artists respond to the culture around them – whether that's a Barbie movie or Covid – so it's about keeping your ear to the ground and responding to the next big thing.

Eating out

The Food Lifestyle team dine at some of the South West's most interesting restaurants to reveal where's worth a visit

Nancarrow Farm

Forming connections between people, place and produce, this is a cream of the crop find for farm‑to‑table dining, discovers Selena Young

What's the draw? While dining trends come and go, field‑to‑fork feasting in a remote candlelit barn remains an alluring concept – yet few places have the experience nailed like Nancarrow.

Behind each bespoke farm supper, private dining event and Sunday lunch in the beamed barn are a team who create menus around what's grown and reared on the surrounding organic farmland. Herbs and brassicas from the no‑dig kitchen garden; chillies, lemons and salad from the reclaimed greenhouse; and pasture bred meat from the farm are put to delicious use in simple yet flavour‑packed seasonal dishes.

Also on‑site are a micro bakery, butchery, larder, orchards and even an Exeter Retort kiln used to produce charcoal for the wood‑fired kitchen.

Who's cooking? Jack Bristow (pictured left) is Nancarrow's head chef and can be spied at work in the open kitchen. He climbed the culinary ladder at Fifteen Cornwall and Paul Ainsworth at No6 before moving to this bucolic setting in 2015. His flare for plot‑to‑plate cooking can be traced further back to his time working as a butcher at Philip Warren and his experience growing up on a working farm.

What to order? Each event has a set menu crafted from whatever's currently ripe and ready to eat.

First course on our line‑up was crown prince squash agnolotti with brown butter, crisp sage and a generous dusting of parmesan. Each silken parcel glided across

the palate and unravelled to reveal tender sweet‑smoky squash, perfectly offset by sharp cheese.

For the main event, we back‑and‑forthed an assortment of plates including dry‑aged beef rump with pickled shallot and parsley; pomme puree, purple sprouting broccoli, salsa verde and bottarga; and braised beef shin with jerusalem artichoke and ale‑roasted onions.

Velvety cuts of steak from the farm's Red Devon cattle are dry aged for 50 days to deepen their flavour. The bones and trim are then used to dress the beef in a rich luxurious sauce – as if wrapped in a cashmere throw. With ingredients so fresh and flavours so nuanced, we found ourselves chewing each mouthful slowly to savour the experience.

Other highlights included Wildfarmed sourdough smothered in smoked butter, and a dynamite pud of frozen‑stout mousse with caramelised apple and crunchy almonds.

Need to know Avoid having to traverse the wiggly roads around Nancarrow late at night by bedding down in one of the rustic‑luxe farmhouse rooms or shepherd's huts. Also, keep an eye on Nancarrow socials for news of a ten‑year anniversary celebration happening this spring.

Nancarrow Farm

St Allen, near Truro, Cornwall, TR4 9DG nancarrowfarm.co.uk

The Queen's Arms

Foodies will love this village retreat which has classic pub appeal with added lustre, writes

Rosanna Rothery

Image: Tory McTernan

What’s the draw? Candles flicker on tables, logs crackle in the hearth, flagstone floors are characterful beneath the feet and dried‑flower chandeliers create a lacework of preserved beauty on high. A stunning portrait called The Forgotten Lady appears to survey this rustic scene with a serene smile. No doubt the romantic woman in flowing robes thoroughly approves – and not just of the tasteful country decor but of each splendid dish winging its way out of the kitchen.

Who's cooking? The Queen's Arms has been at the heart of Corton Denham village life since Georgian times but, thanks to a takeover by an enterprising local family with foodie credentials, discerning diners congregate in droves at this pub on the Dorset‑Somerset border.

Owner Doune Mackenzie‑Francis studied at the Ballymaloe Cookery School before working as a private cook and then as a marketing manager at Leiths School of Food and Wine. During her eight years at Leiths she garnered tips and tricks from the likes of Yotam Ottolenghi, Tom Kerridge and Lorraine Pascale.

Heading up her kitchen is head chef Rich Townsend whose immaculate dishes turn heads for their knockout flavour combos. Strong links with local farmers and producers ensure the majority of the ingredients hail from nearby fields.

What to order? It's easy to choose elevated pub classics (fried‑chicken burger or fish and chips) but the artistry shown in Rich's showstoppers is too good to miss. Our lobster ravioli starter tasted of the sea and was accompanied by a fennel and blood‑orange salad in a rich briny bisque. Exmoor venison to follow was exceptionally tender and lent piquancy by its pickled walnut sauce, sweetness from grilled pear and crispy texture from cavolo nero.

A salt‑baked celeriac veggie dish was as hearty, tender and satisfying as any carnivore's contender and included confit shallot, kale, king oyster mushrooms and a green peppercorn sauce.

A croissant bread and butter pudding provided a taste of childhood with the grown‑up twists of cinnamon apples, gelato, and amaretto crème anglaise.

Need to know This smart dining pub has it all for a rural retreat: summer terrace, seasonal cocktail menu, homemade ginger beers and lemonades, ten attractively designed bedrooms (five above the pub, three in a coach house and two in a private cottage), colourful textiles, 100 Acres toiletries and a spoilt‑for‑choice breakfast menu.

The Queen's Arms

Corton Denham, Sherborne, Dorset, DT9 4LR

BreweryTintagelBar & Bistro

World‑class ale is not the only reason to visit Tintagel Brewery; it's also the location for a magical dining experience, discovers Lara Watson

Image: Frankie Thomas

What's the draw? Award‑winning cuisine served in stylish surroundings among the clifftop fields of north Cornwall. The bistro makes the most of the brewed‑on‑site ales and local ingredients such as Cornish fish and wagyu beef reared next door.

Who's cooking? Fine‑dining newcomers, Simon Hobbs (front of house) and George Buckley (head chef) serve modern European dishes with plucky creativity. At just 24 years old, the pair are among the youngest in the country to be awarded an AA rosette. Leading chefs Nathan Outlaw and Gordon Ramsay have already swung by to check out what they're up to.

What to order? We visited to experience the five‑course seasonal tasting menu. It's comprised of dishes that appear on the à la carte – which also features local and gourmet twists on trad fare such as wagyu steak and Caliburn ale pie.

Leave any preconceptions of a “brewery restaurant” at the door; this bar and bistro takes the experience next level via exceptional cooking and superlative ingredients. The brewery's beers pepper the menus via dark‑ale breads and silky stout ice cream.

Our dinner started with breads served with homemade cranberry and honey butter, and a trio of amuse bouches that included a zesty smoked‑salmon parfait topped with king prawn, a slow‑confit rabbit terrine, and herby Mediterranean bruschetta.

For starters we took Simon's recommendation and dived into a dish of ChalkStream rainbow trout. Cured in Cornish sea salt, sugar, citrus and Sea Horse gin – distilled at nearby Tregida Farm – it was a delicately flavoured forkful, cut with the pleasing acidity of kumquat.

Dishes are sensibly sized, not overly rich, and delivered with good pacing and attentive service. Our main course – duck breast with soy glaze, hazelnuts, salsify and orange reduction was as tender as it was flavourful.

The signature dessert – ‘chocolate and stout’ – combined chocolate delice with brown butter and stout crumb, blackberry gel and the brewery's Caliburn ice cream. An extensive wine list (try the velvety Cornish red from Knightor Winery near St Austell), creative cocktails and own‑brewed ales are all on hand to pair with the edibles, but it would be remiss not to experience the tasting flight of all seven Tintagel Brewery ales.

Need to know Keep a lookout for spring supper evenings, when customers can sit outdoors and enjoy panoramic views over Bodmin Moor and the coast while sharing tapas‑style plates.

Tintagel Brewery Bar & Bistro

Condolden Farm, Tintagel, Cornwall, PL34 0HJ tintagelbrewerybarandbistro.co.uk

Harbour House

Rosanna Rothery discovers a flaming delicious pub menu in a Cornish harbourside pub

What’s the draw? Superb seafood from the River Fal, an in‑house bakery, stonking cocktail list and a chef who is passionate about flame‑driven flavour. These are just some of the epicurean enticements putting the newly refurbed Harbour House firmly on Cornwall's food map.

A short ferry ride from Falmouth, the Flushing pub is the latest project for seasoned restaurateurs Tamara Costin and William Speed (they also own Beachhouse in South Milton and Schoolhouse in Mothecombe). This new venture is growing an enviable reputation for great food, yet the pair have also managed to retain its rustic village‑pub vibe.

If you're lucky enough to get a table next to the open kitchen you can watch the flame‑filled action taking place, although a window seat overlooking the waters in which your hot‑smoked seafood was recently caught is hard to beat.

Who's cooking? Andrew Tuck, former head chef at St Kew Inn, who has featured on BBC Two's Great British Menu and Rick Stein's Cornwall. His creativity, flair and love of open‑fire cooking are put to great use in Harbour House's reimagined coastal menu, where he uses super‑fresh produce from the surrounding land and sea (we're talking metres not miles).

What to order? Our pickled gurnard starter was exquisitely subtle in flavour and complemented by the sharpness of local rhubarb and the earthy sweetness of hazelnuts. We also loved a charred‑leek dish doused in smoky baba ganoush.

For mains we opted for delicate red mullet, fresh from a dayboat, which was offset with 'nduja, foraged purslane and the briny beauty of Salty Fingers.

By contrast, a meaty 40oz 60‑day sirloin on the bone (smoked in a wood‑fired oven and finished over embers) was smothered in rich XO butter and accompanied by buttered greens with pangritata made with beef fat.

Andrew even brought flames to the fore in puddings such as burnt‑toffee tart and smoked pannacotta with poached rhubarb.

Need to know To experience Andrew's unbridled creativity but without the full sit‑down experience, perch at the bar where a knowledgeable front‑of‑house team serve small dishes such as briny Fal native oysters three ways: raw with cider shallots, in ginger‑beer granita and in a crispy buttermilk with fermented chilli mayo.

There are plenty of local sips to explore (as well as special‑occasion secret cellar wines) as you tuck into bar snacks and house‑baked breads served with apple‑smoked butter.

Harbour House

Trefusis Road, Flushing, Cornwall, TR11 5TY

harbourhouseflushing.com

5 OF THE BEST

Lifestyle stores

Kathryn Lewis

Lust over gorgeous homewares, browse curated kitchen collections and glean interiors inspiration at these must‑visit lifestyle stores, says

Nkuku Totnes

Those with an eye for interior design will be familiar with ethical lifestyle brand Nkuku (nkuku.com), but few know the online emporium also has a store and cafe in south Devon. Nkuku's hub near Totnes is where the design‑minded gather to browse contemporary homewares before pausing to sip coffee while considering floor plans and pattern pairing.

Many products in the catalogue are inspired by founders Ali and Alex Cooke's travels; the couple (pictured) established the business in order to work with and support artisans they'd met around the world.

Alice in Scandiland

Lostwithiel

The Alice in Scandiland (aliceinscandiland.com) concept started in 2015 as a blog exploring interiors and family life, for which its founder Alice Collyer won a string of awards and an international following. In March 2018 she started online sales of the vintage homewares she was writing about, and by August had opened this bricks‑and‑mortar shop in Lostwithiel.

The store is a mirage of neutral linens, oatmeal ceramics and natural wood – the kind of place you pop into for a browse and leave with plans to redesign your whole house. The online store features an extended wonderland of products, curated into seasonal collections.

Sunshine & Snow

Bideford

It's hard to miss Sunshine & Snow's (sunshineand snowshop.com) lifestyle store, coffee bar and events space on Bideford's Mill Street. The multicoloured shopfront and floor‑to‑ceiling windows provide a glimpse of the eclectic products within and make it nigh on impossible to pass without stopping for a peek.

Founded by India Snow in 2018, the store is a curation of her favourite ethical and sustainable finds from around the world. From floaty linen beach dresses to recycled‑cotton throws, discover a menagerie of aspirational items you may not need but will certainly want. ››

St Kew Farmshop & Cafe

Wadebridge

This unassuming pit stop near Wadebridge is a delightful find on the Atlantic Highway. A cafe, local‑produce shop and lifestyle store, St Kew Farmshop (stkewfarmshop.co.uk) is crammed full of gorgeous products while also serving speciality coffee and delicious homemade fodder.

Take a tote to fill with fresh veg from local growers, Cornish wine, funky prints, leafy houseplants, natural candles and lust‑worthy ceramics. Then round off your visit with breakfast or lunch in the courtyard or the cosy cafe space and feast on the likes of Basque cassoulet and Goan veggie curry.

Ryder & Hope Lyme Regis

Curved floor‑to‑ceiling windows revealing statement furniture, intricate fabrics and lush greenery preview the cornucopia of beautiful homewares within Ryder & Hope's (ryderandhope. com) Lyme Regis store.

It's wonderful to feel and see the wares in real life but everything in the shop is also available to buy online on the Ryder & Hope website, alongside an extended range of web‑exclusive textiles, kitchenware, prints and crafts. The shop's Dorset setting means there's a nautical vibe to items such as yellow and white striped cushions with retro frills, Hammam beach towels and seaweed‑pressing kits.

Image: Matt Austin

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5 OF THE BEST

Spa breaks in Cornwall

Coastal serenity and rejuvenation await at these tranquil spa spots, says Melissa Stewart

Scarlet Hotel

Mawgan Porth

Scarlet Hotel's (scarlethotel.co.uk) grown‑ups‑only eco bolthole, overlooking Mawgan Porth Beach, entices spa‑goers who like to be in tune with nature. With its signature clifftop hot tub, rustic cedar‑wood sauna and natural outdoor pool, its coastal‑luxe vibe blows worries away on the salty sea air.

Chase an invigorating hike or surf with an Ayurveda spa treatment (inspired by the Indian system which promotes balance between body, mind and spirit) and round off the experience in the relaxation room, swinging in a cocoon pod suspended from the ceiling.

Photograph: Elliott White

The Cornwall Hotel & Spa

St Austell

A verdant walled garden envelops The Cornwall Hotel & Spa (thecornwall.com) to create a serene space in which to relax and unwind. Floor‑to‑ceiling curved bi‑fold doors open during summer months and transform the indoor pool into an outdoor oasis steeped in nature.

From cranial massages to pampering pedicures, head‑to‑toe treatments are available and delivered using natural Caudalie skincare products. Make a day of it by following a morning's relaxation with afternoon tea in the hotel's elegant 19th‑century drawing room or explore the 43 acres of parkland in which the hotel sits – there are tree‑lined trails and formal gardens to explore.

Fowey Hall

Fowey

A family‑friendly spa break may sound like an oxymoron, but Fowey Hall (luxuryfamilyhotels.co.uk), rising above the chic yachty town, delivers R&R even on a multi‑generational trip. Youngsters from the age of three can enjoy Little Ishga spa treatments using seaweed‑based products, while parents can melt away the day's stresses with a pampering massage.

A splash in the hotel's 12‑metre indoor pool is guaranteed to help release pent‑up energy and build an appetite for a post‑spa lunch or supper. In summer months, take the fun outdoors with a dip in the heated outside pool with its exceptional views over the coast. ››

Image: Mark Bolton

Headland Hotel

Newquay

This prominent Victorian hotel (headlandhotel.co.uk) overlooking Newquay's Fistral Beach has been given a fresh lease of life with the creation of The AquaClub, a multimillion‑pound swimming and wellbeing complex. Swimmers can notch up laps in the 25‑metre pool before easing tired muscles in the hydrotherapy tub. For a sundowner dip with stellar views across the Atlantic, head to the Sunset Spa Pool – poolside cocktails are a must.

Whatever your current state of mind, The Headland Spa offers a treatment to help soothe and recalibrate. Induce sleep with a Mindful Dreams relaxation session, rejuvenate tired skin with an Intense Salt Scrub or reconnect via a couples massage.

St Michaels Resort Falmouth

With its huge hydrothermal pool, 21 massage stations, herbal finnish sauna and Cornish Sea Salt steam room, St Michaels' (stmichaelsresort.com) multi‑sensory sanctuary is a great place to unwind.

Just opposite Gyllyngvase Beach in Falmouth, it enables guests to combine beach activities and coastal walks with leisurely spa time.

Book one of the new Spa Garden Lodges – each has its own private terrace and outdoor copper bathtub – and enjoy complimentary access to the spa's Hydrothermal Experience.

Image: Elliott White

Notes from a Michelin kitchen

Chef Scott Paton shares how he prepares for spring at his restaurant Àclèaf at Boringdon Hall, near Plymouth

It's been a full year since we received our first Michelin star and we've been building on our ethos of ‘high‑quality produce with consistency’ to ensure our offering continues to improve. As spring starts we'll be tweaking our menus and adding subtle, thoughtful theatre to the dining room, although exactly what we're going to do is a well‑guarded secret – for now.

For me, the most wonderful thing about Àclèaf is how everyone collaborates when we develop new dishes. It lets creativity and ambition thrive, which is crucial to the running and success of the restaurant.

As we shared in our Àclèaf cookbook, seasonality is at the heart of everything: it determines the produce we use, the dishes we create and the flavour profiles we tap into.

I'm really looking forward to the produce spring brings; it's an especially exciting time of year as ingredients come into season. Local lamb, turbot, asparagus, and brassicas like broccoli and kale, combined with citrussy and sunshiney flavours, are just a sneak peek of some elements we'll combine.

‘Exactly what we're going to do is a well‑guarded secret’

We promise our guests an unforgettable gastronomic journey via a four‑course menu of visually striking dishes which celebrate the highest quality seasonal ingredients (sourced locally wherever possible). So visit to share in our excitement for the fine food on offer this season. I look forward to welcoming you.

acleaf.co.uk

Image: Matthew Hawkey

Weekend

cooking

This season we're celebrating seasonal cooking and eating with Cornish chef Emily Scott, who's shares her favourite recipes for the season

Barbecued butterflied leg of lamb with lemon, garlic and thyme

‘This is a wonderful way to cook lamb,’ says Emily. ‘The zesty marinade is perfect for spring and works best if left to marinate overnight’

‘Ask your butcher to butterfly the lamb. Splitting the joint will allow it to cook more quickly and evenly’

Serves 6

Leg of lamb 2‑2.5kg, butterflied

Cornish Sea Salt and freshly ground black pepper to season

For the marinade

Lemons 3, zest and juice

Dijon mustard 1 tbsp

Garlic 4 cloves, peeled and crushed

Runny honey 3 tbsp

Olive oil 2‑3 tbsp

Thyme 2 small bunches, stalks removed

To serve

Tzatziki

Lemon wedges

Green salad

1 For the marinade: combine all the ingredients in a large bowl. Add the lamb and cover with the marinade. Put in the fridge and leave to marinate for at least 3 hours or overnight if possible.

2 Bring the lamb back to room temperature before cooking. Remove from the marinade and season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.

3 Fire up the barbecue. When hot enough, cook the lamb over the coals for 45 minutes, turning it from time to time.

4 Transfer the lamb to a board and leave it to rest for 15 minutes before slicing. Serve with a dollop of tzatziki, a squirt of lemon and a green salad.

Blue cheese, spring onion, leek, crème fraîche and thyme tart

‘Soft, pale and delicious Helford Blue is one of my favourite cheeses. I always have it on my cheeseboard and its creamy texture works beautifully in this tart,’ says Emily

Serves 8

For the pastry:

Plain flour 250g, plus extra for dusting

Unsalted butter 100g

Cornish Sea Salt a pinch

Free‑range egg yolks 2

Milk 2‑3 tbsp

For the filling

Unsalted butter 50g

Leeks 225g, trimmed, washed and sliced

Spring onions 4, trimmed and sliced

Thyme leaves 2 tbsp, plus extra to garnish

Crѐme fraîche 100g

Double cream 100ml

Free‑range eggs 2, plus 1 extra yolk

Blue cheese 150g

Cornish Sea Salt and freshly ground black pepper to season

1 For the pastry: put the flour, butter, sea salt and egg yolks in a food processor and pulse to combine. Add the milk until the mixture comes together as a dough. Cover with clingfilm and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

2 On a lightly floured surface, roll out the pastry to approximately 1cm thick. Line a 22cm fluted loose‑bottom tin with the pastry and chill it in the fridge for 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 200C / gas 6.

3 Blind bake the pastry case for 25‑30 minutes until golden. Trim off any excess pastry.

4 For the filling: melt the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat. Add the leeks, spring onions and thyme, and cook gently for 8–10 minutes until softened.

5 Whisk the crème fraîche, cream, eggs and egg yolk together in a bowl and season with salt and pepper.

6 Arrange the leek and spring onion mixture over the base of the tart, crumble the blue cheese on top, then pour the cream mixture over. Bake for 25–30 minutes until golden and firm in the centre.

7 Leave the tart to rest for 10 minutes before slicing. Serve with an extra sprinkle of thyme leaves.

‘Always cook alliums slowly to bring out their natural sweetness’

From Time & Tide by Emily Scott (Hardie Grant, £28)

Photography: Kristin Perers

Time & Tide is Emily's second cookbook, and brings together the things that inspire her cooking – from the salt‑scented Cornish air to the textures of the plants that crowd the coast path.

Published by Hardie Grant (RRP £28), it's available from geni.us/ timeandtide – or try your luck at winning a copy by entering our competition.

Question In which county does Emily live?

To enter visit food‑mag.co.uk/win

EVineyards to visit in spring

Drinks pro Susy shares her must‑visit vineyards this season; get in early before the crowds descend

nglish wine tourism has never been more popular. Where many vineyards once only opened their doors to the public during English Wine Week (starts third Saturday in June), many now offer tasting experiences on‑site throughout the season. Things really

Langham Wine Estate, Dorset

North east of Dorchester is the impressive Langham Estate, renowned for its very fine Champagne‑method sparkling wines. You can taste there, take a guided tour around the vineyard or pitch up at an event in the haybarn – Fizz Fridays are especially popular (so book in advance). Open from March 1.

Susy's top drop

Langham Blanc de Noirs

Sparkling Pinot Noir 2019

for English Wine Week

get going in spring, and it's a great time to visit before the crowds gather later. Book a tour or tasting, dine at the vineyard or simply grab a glass to sip while sitting close to where the fruit was grown. Here are three of my favourites to drop in on this season.

Sandridge Barton, Devon

This is the new home of Sharpham Wine – it moved to this site in Stoke Gabriel near Totnes two years ago. It's a large vineyard where you could while away a few hours. Next to the winery where premium wines (still and sparkling) are made there's also a great restaurant, Circa, plus a tasting room, wine and cheese shop, vineyard tours and even holiday cottages. Open daily from March‑December.

Susy's top drop

Sandridge Barton Classic Cuvée 2020

Trevibban Mill Cornish Vineyard and Orchards, Cornwall

Only three miles from Padstow, Trevibban has a wonderfully spacious and airy tasting room with great views – one to hole up in and sample the fine wines, ciders and juices produced there. They also make chocolate to die for and have an on‑site restaurant, Barnaby's, owned by the Prawn on the Lawn team. The tasting room is open from March 1.

Susy's top drop

Trevibban Mill

Black Ram Red 2021

Perfect poachies

Trencherman's Guide chefs share their how‑tos on some classic kitchen conundrums. Turns out there's more than one way to poach an egg …

TRENCHERMAN'S TUTORIAL

Rick Toogood

Prawn on the Lawn, Padstow

EGGS The fresher the better otherwise they disintegrate into a mess. We use St Ewe eggs at home and at the restaurant.

PREP I don't mess around – the cheffiness goes out the window at home. Occasionally I used to break the egg into a cup to lower it into the water gently, but that was before our three kids came along – now it's all about doing it quickly!

TECHNIQUE Boil water with a splash of vinegar, then turn down to a strong simmer – I find boiling water catapults the eggs around and breaks them up. Carefully drop in two or three eggs at water level, using a spoon to keep them separated. I never use timings; I wait until the whites are solid and the yolk gives a little bit of resistance when nudged with a spoon. Remove straight into a sieve to get rid of excess water – watery eggs on toast is the worst thing ever.

SERVE Toasted Coombeshead sourdough topped with butter, the eggs and crispy Szechuan oil.

Andrew Swann

The Castle at Taunton, Somerset

EGGS We use medium, free range eggs from Fenton Farm which is just down the road from the hotel. They have really golden yolks.

PREP Eggs must be at room temperature and not from the fridge – so you can achieve the teardrop effect.

TECHNIQUE We use old‑school methods. Boil a litre of water with two tablespoons of white wine vinegar, then drop in up to three eggs and turn the water down to a simmer. I never swirl the water; since it's boiling when you drop the eggs in, the teardrop shape naturally occurs as the egg drops down through the water and the white surrounds the yolk. Cook for three to four minutes then use a slotted spoon to scoop the eggs out and onto a jay cloth to drain.

SERVE I like them with harissa‑crushed avocado, hollandaise and smoked salmon, on a slab of breakfast sourdough from Dough bakery in Taunton. ››

Mark Budd

Bovey Castle Hotel and Spa, Dartmoor

EGGS Start with quality free‑range eggs, as local as possible. I always use large.

PREP Crack an egg into half a cup of white wine vinegar.

TECHNIQUE In a pan of very gently simmering water, spin the water into a cyclone with a spoon, then empty the cup into the middle. Leave for roughly three minutes then remove and drain on a tea towel. Home cooks who have a steamer that can be set to a temperature can try this restaurant‑style method: cook the eggs in the shell for an hour at 63.5C. It produces eggs that are the perfect shape and haven't had any vinegar on them. Trim with scissors for an extra‑neat finish.

SERVE Two poached eggs on brown toast with a flat breakfast mushroom.

Scott Paton

Àclèaf, Boringdon Hall Hotel and Spa, Plymouth

EGGS We use St Ewe large, rich‑yolk eggs. You want reassurance that your eggs come from a chicken that's had a free‑range life; if a chicken is stressed when laying, the egg won't have a thick albumen (white) and will break down too quickly.

PREP We use espresso cups – add a tablespoon of white wine vinegar into each then crack the eggs in. Let them sit for 20 seconds so the albumen starts to set.

TECHNIQUE Bring water to the boil, then simmer. Whisk a rapid whirlpool then drop the eggs straight into the centre. Simmer for 110 seconds. If you have a large pan and you can get all the eggs in and out within ten seconds, you can use this method for up to six eggs.

SERVE A slice of Coombeshead Farm sourdough with butter and the eggs seasoned with salt and a little black pepper.

Image: Matthew Hawkey

The Trencherman's Guide

The 32‑year‑old dining guide that reveals 106 of the best restaurants from Cornwall to the Cotswolds has been described by Rick Stein as ‘a guide with teeth’. The guide has its own awards, voted for by readers, which celebrate exceptional cooking talent in the region. This year's Trencherman's Awards will take place on April 29 at Bovey Castle Hotel and Spa, where Mark, Rick, Scott and Andrew will create a multi‑course feast for guests.

Ben Tunnicliffe

The chef behind Cornwall's Tolcarne Inn is all about down‑to‑earth food served with heart, discovers Kirstie Newton

Ben Tunnicliffe has enjoyed an impressive pedigree in the Cornish food scene –including previously holding a Michelin star at The Abbey in Penzance – but he's found it's in the humble surroundings of the tucked‑away Tolcarne Inn that he's happiest.

‘I don't care about Michelin stars and being number one on a list,’ he insists. ‘I just want to bring a smile to people's faces.’

It's a modest ambition for a man who is into his third decade in the industry, during which time he also launched the food offering at Scarlet Hotel.

In 2012, ready to be his own boss again, Ben sought a location where his cooking could take centre stage, and he found it near Newlyn's fishing port and market at Tolcarne Inn (tolcarneinn.co.uk). It has proved to be the ideal spot for a menu dominated by the fruits of Cornish waters.

‘When I opened, it was the only fish restaurant in Newlyn,’ he says. ‘But I didn't want the pomp and ceremony of fine dining. This isn't pretentious or flash – it's food on a plate, in a very simple 300 year old granite pub.’

By his own admission, Bournemouth‑born Ben fell into cheffing by accident. ‘I got no qualifications at school and it was a case of doing

retakes. Then someone said, “You were good at home economics – go to college and do that”. I'm still doing it at 53, so I must be half decent.’

Self‑promotion doesn't come naturally. ‘If I'm under the radar, it's because I don't really do social media,’ he says. ‘I just get on and do what I do, and if you know it's there, you know.’

Yet, despite a distinct lack of social media presence or even signage from the main road, plenty of people do know. You might get lucky off‑season with a last‑minute table, but if you rock up without a booking at Tolcarne Inn between April and October, it's likely to be a different story.

The pub may be just down the road from where the fish is landed at Newlyn but what's available each day depends entirely on the weather. In such an environment, a chef needs to be prepared, agile and intuitive. ‘I have to work with what there is,’ he says. ‘Yesterday's menu included sea bass with fennel and salsify, lemongrass and dill cream sauce and was based on what I had in the kitchen.’

Spring is a welcome arrival following lean times. Pushed for a favourite ingredient, Ben plumps for asparagus as the epitome of the season. ‘It's around for five or six weeks and then it's gone.’

‘The beauty of what I do is that it brings joy to people’

He recommends serving it simply with olive oil, lemon and parmesan; or with tartare crushed potatoes – preferably Cornish earlies – and a chive beurre blanc. For a real treat, visit Tolcarne Inn for a dish of the delicately flavoured spears with turbot, home‑smoked shrimp and preserved lemons.

Ben's just negotiated a new lease on the pub, and is hoping to extend the dining room to include a sea view, and convert the upstairs space into ensuite accommodation. But the chef's most ardent passion is to continue to be ‘emotionally charged’ when customers express their pleasure with a dish. He doesn't often read reviews, but was moved to tears upon discovering glowing endorsements online. ‘I took a screenshot and sent it to the kitchen team, with my thanks,’ he admits, lump in throat.

‘The beauty of what I do is that it brings joy to people. Someone comes in feeling miserable, they have a lovely plate of food and it changes their day. To be able to do that is priceless.’

tolcarneinn.co.uk

Kasae Fraser

When the Aussie chef got to the finals of MasterChef: The Professionals last autumn, her cooking and personality made her a fan favourite. At

Flute in Bath, where she's head chef, Kasae's created a seafood cafe that's all about the good times.

Jo Rees got the low down

Image: Betty Bhandari

What have you created at Flute?

Simple food done well: seafood and fizz which is elegant in its simplicity. We take a lot of inspiration from Cornwall – our fish comes from Wing of St Mawes and we work closely with them.

The original idea for Flute was to create a Champagne and oyster bar, but we didn't want it to feel too fancy so we created a seafood cafe – it's more accessible.

‘Then we did it and I was like, ‘Oh my God! That's something cool!’

We have fun with it and change the menu a lot so guests have a new experience every time they visit. We never want it to be stuffy, you know? We love it to be fun and interactive, even if it's just our team filleting a whole fish on the bone for the guest at the table. People aren't used to that so it gives an elevated experience.

Tell us about your crowd-pleasing dishes. Guests love the pint of prawns paired with a pint of Guinness. The hake kiev is also really fun: it's got a rich buttery sauce that we insert into the fish and we serve it on a watercress coulis that provides pepperiness. One of my chefs suggested it to me and I thought, ‘Okay, we'll see how that goes,’ and then we did it and I was like, ‘Oh my God! That's something cool!’

You've been in the UK for three years. How has your background influenced your cooking in Bath?

My last job in Australia was by the beach at a new restaurant winery that was heavily focused on fish. I also worked in Sweden at a restaurant with an emphasis on fish, and at a fish restaurant in New Zealand, so I've definitely brought those experiences to Flute.

What have you developed for the spring menu?

I'd never had kedgeree until I moved here and when I did I thought it would be really good in arancini. So I've created little arancini using a classic kedgeree base and serve them with cured egg yolk on top. It's a fun interpretation. We're also going to have more whole fish on the menu which is great for sharing. The cold seafood platter is also coming in spring.

How has being on MasterChef: The Professionals influenced you?

The thing I got most out of it was confidence in my own cooking: to say ‘this is what I like and what I want to do’, and to put that on the menu.

Being on MasterChef was challenging though, especially cooking for the chef's table. There's no other scenario where I would get to cook for all of those chefs in one room. It was terrifying – but a definite highlight.

East Devon

Need to top up the air in your tyres after a long winter? Jo Rees' five curated spring weekends in East Devon will leave you replenished

The gourmet getaway

STAY AT Hugh Fearnley‑Whittingstall's River Cottage (rivercottage.net). This isn't just somewhere to learn how to craft artisan food; it's also a stylish spot for a night away as the Farmhouse, Gardener's Cottage and Cabin are all available for bed and breakfast.

ON-SITE JOLLIES River Cottage runs a wide range of cookery courses, has a Kitchen & Store serving breakfast, brunch and coffee, and also hosts seasonal dining events such as foragers' lunches.

BEST ROOM IN THE HOUSE The iconic Farmhouse takes top honours.

NEARBY EATS AND ENTS Visit Castlewood Vineyard (castlewoodvineyard.co.uk) for a tour and tasting, and Lyme Regis for excellent dining. For casual eats at Lyme's seafront, The Whole Hog (thewholehog.co.uk) – a hole in the wall serving doughnuts, speciality coffee and hog roast baps – is hard to resist, or find further quality coffee and carbs at Town Mill Bakery (townmillbakery.co.uk). ››

Clockwise from left View to River Cottage; Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall

Image: Matt Austin

Coast and countryside

STAY AT Glebe House (glebehousedevon. co.uk) near Colyton which is a country‑home magazine fantasy incarnate. Even if you can't live in such curated rural loveliness every day it's possible to play at it during a weekend at Glebe.

The Georgian house is surrounded by 15 acres that include a mature garden and kitchen garden with a polytunnel producing ingredients for the on‑site restaurant.

ON-SITE JOLLIES Laze on the lawn, take a dip in the outdoor pool or play a game of tennis. Inside, comfy sitting rooms with fireplaces offer the opportunity to meet other guests; quiet corners provide a chance to escape from them.

BEST ROOM IN THE HOUSE Each of the seven bedrooms captures the spirit of the English countryside as enjoyed by those with generous means and oodles of good taste. Introverts will like the self‑contained cabin.

NEARBY EATS AND ENTS Head to High Grange (highgrangedevon.com), 20 minutes away, for a communal feast night where dinner is cooked outdoors over fire. An £85 ticket includes a cocktail and five seasonal courses (upcoming dates include March 22, April 12 and May 3).

Glebe is three miles from the coast where walks on the shore and sea swimming are an excellent way to spend a spring day. Those staying at the guesthouse can also access a range of exclusive experiences such as pasta and breadmaking workshops, a private tour of Castlewood Vineyard, and a mackerel fishing trip culminating in a twilight beach dinner. ››

Clockwise from left Sitting room at Glebe House; alfresco feasting at High Grange

Where town mice play country mice

STAY AT The Pig – at Combe (thepighotel. com) near Honiton. This member of the litter may be housed in an Elizabethan manor but it's decidedly informal; turn up for dinner in shorts and no one will lose their monocle over it.

The Pig's luxe bar (serving cocktails garnished with pickings from the infusion garden) is the perfect place to kick off an evening. Dinner is casual and crafted using local produce supplemented by ingredients from the kitchen gardens. Those wanting to slough off formality entirely will enjoy pigging out on wood‑fired pizza in the garden.

ON-SITE JOLLIES Smooth away the rough edges at The Potting Shed treatment rooms where VOYA organic seaweed products are used.

BEST ROOM IN THE HOUSE Hard to call. The Laundry with its super‑king four‑poster bed and circular copper bath has wow factor, but the rural‑chic cottages are gorgeous. Find extra privacy in a Stream Wagon, a quarter of a mile from the main house. Don't worry about having to stumble back after dinner; you'll be Land Rover ed to your door.

NEARBY EATS AND ENTS A couple of miles away is Heron Farm (heron farm. co.uk), the vineyard, farm shop and farm featured on Grand Designs. Also nearby is Otter Valley Dairy (ottervalleydairy. co.uk) with its cafe, shop and small‑batch gelato scoops in seasonal flavours such as sea buckthorn. ››

Clockwise from above Heron Farm courtyard; dining room at The Pig – at Combe

Image: Guy Harrop

Image: Girl Behind The Lens

For estuarine adventurers

STAY AT a Lympstone Manor shepherd hut (lympstonemanor.co.uk). Michael Caines' country house hotel near Exmouth is known for its luxe guestrooms with gold bathtubs, gin trays and proximity to the manor's Michelin‑starred restaurant. However, hidden in the garden is a collection of shepherd huts where guests can get close to nature while enjoying the comforts of a log burner, rolltop bath, firepit, wood‑fired hot tub and outdoor shower.

ON-SITE JOLLIES The huts are a short stroll from the main house, heated outdoor pool and Pool House casual restaurant. Play a game of tennis or croquet or tick the boxes on both culture and viticulture by strolling through the sculpture trail and vineyard.

BEST ROOM IN THE HOUSE Every hut includes a king‑size bed, open‑plan lounge and kitchenette, but Beehive has extra space and includes a gold rolltop bath, additional single bed and fold‑down top bunk for kids, plus a snug with a log fire and TV.

NEARBY EATS AND ENTS Head to Darts Farm (dartsfarm.co.uk) in Topsham for exceptional food shopping and casual dining including gourmet fish and chips, wood‑fired pizzas and an ice creamery. The town is also home to the Salutation Inn (salutationtopsham.co.uk) which deals in top‑notch cooking from talented chef patron Tom Williams‑Hawkes in a dining room and glass atrium. For a unique fishy feast take a water taxi to the floating River Exe Café (riverexecafe.com).

Pashley bikes are available for guests to borrow from Lympstone Manor and the energetic can cycle to Exmouth to visit Caines' cafe Mickeys Beach Bar & Restaurant (mickeysbeach.co.uk). Next door is a watersports centre with all the kit for kite surfing, paddleboarding or kayaking on the estuary. After an afternoon on the water, dinner at Saveur (saveursrestaurant.com) –Exmouth's neighbourhood restaurant with Parisian vibes – is charming. ››

Clockwise from left Outdoor tub at Lympstone Manor shepherd hut; Mickeys Beach Bar & Restaurant; dining at the Salutation Inn

Image: Nick Hook

Glamping getaway

STAY AT Cuckoo Down Farm (cuckoodownfarm. co.uk). This glampsite in countryside near Ottery St Mary is a great find for a family camping trip which doesn't involve sleeping on the floor or sharing a loo with strangers. The four large safari tents and secluded yurt each have their own shower, loo, wood‑fired hot tub and campfire.

ON-SITE JOLLIES The tents are stocked with books and board games but you'll undoubtedly spend most of your time outdoors exploring the three‑acre oak wood and paddling in the stream. Come evening, light the fire and barbecue, heat the hot tub and lie back to identify the constellations that are so visible in this spot near the Sidmouth Dark Skies Zone. A decent bottle of red from Christopher Piper Wines (christopherpiperwines.co.uk) in nearby Ottery is a must.

BEST ROOM IN THE HOUSE We like the safari tents with their covered verandas and spacious living areas.

NEARBY EATS AND ENTS Sidmouth's Donkey Sanctuary (thedonkeysanctuary.org.uk) is a short drive away and bolsters the pleasures of donkey petting with a cheery cafe. Crealy Theme Park (crealy.co.uk) is also nearby and a guaranteed hit with kids.

Clockwise from top right Sidmouth's Donkey Sanctuary; safari tent at Cuckoo Down Farm

Image: Alex Walton

VEGAN BRUNCH CAFE

OPEN EVERYDAY

sacredgrounds.co @sacredgroundsvegancafe McCoy’s Arcade, Fore St, Exeter EX4 3AN

We visit the South West's coolest places to stay and discover how to squeeze every last drop of delight from the experience. In this issue, Jo Rees does 24 hours at north Cornwall's contemporary surf hotel

Watergate Bay Hotel

It's a myth you have to be a die‑hard, year‑round surfer to join the tribe at Watergate Bay Hotel. Sure, you'll find a few salty‑haired twentysomethings warming up with a post‑surf coffee, but the hotel hosts a greater number of affluent millennials who've escaped the city, young kids in tow, to grab some waves between a family lunch at The Beach Hut and taking their littlies to the pool. And you'll find tonnes of still‑got‑it couples (like us) enjoying a blast of sea air and salt‑water therapy.

Twenty‑four hours at this beachside hotel doesn't sound like much when you factor in its three restaurants, coffee cabin and street‑food hut, pool, cardio room, treatments, sauna, hot tub and watersports centre, but we were up for the challenge.

Photographs: Lewis Harrison Pinder, Russell Inman, Megan Hemsworth, Kate Whitaker, Holly Donnelly

Staying in one of the hotel's beach lofts was a good start. Seven boho‑chic suites have been created in the building that once housed Jamie Oliver's Fifteen Cornwall and hang right over the sands. It felt like a home from home: our king‑size bed exactly where we'd once sipped a cocktail at the restaurant's marble bar; our freestanding tub where we'd previously scoffed lunch at a window table.

The lofts are designed in an effortlessly casual style, a vibe extended to the shared pantry where loft guests can help themselves to snacks all day – and, at breakfast, warm croissants, Da Bara Bakery cinnamon buns (yass!), fruit and yogurt.

Although the room rate includes cooked breakfasts in The Living Space dining room in the main hotel, we were happy to reward our early morning gym and yoga sessions by chilling in our seascape lounge, watching dawn patrollers haul their boards to the water while we sipped Origin coffee and inadvertently showered ourselves in cinnamon sugar.

Of course, it would be remiss to visit this surf spot and not get in the water. Happily, guests don't have to take their own board and wetsuit or sort hire: the beach loft's host does all that – and will even arrange lessons for beginners. There's also an outdoor shower and board rack exclusively for loft dwellers, so everything's easy peasy. Even in winter – or when the surf's scary‑feet‑high – guests can find aquatic pleasures at Watergate. A half‑glazed indoor pool provides the sensation of swimming outside, while the alfresco hot tub is always toasty below neck level – however chilly the weather. There's even a sea‑facing finnish sauna.

After a stomp across the sand, we hit The Beach Hut for contemporary Cornish cuisine with a dash of Indian flair (care of a group of chefs from the Indian sub‑continent). We stuffed ourselves with pimped salads, focaccia and truffly parmesan fries, then let the masseuses in the Swim Club do their sorcery with our knots. ››

Need to know

Must pack Swimsuit

If you do one thing

Dinner at Zacry's on the sea wall Insider tip There are great out of season rates on family rooms

Thoroughly unwound, we hit the newest attraction at Watergate Bay Hotel: Zacry's on the sea wall. The restaurant, which opened at the end of 2023, is the brainchild of exec chef Neil Haydock and housed in the building that was once home to Emily Scott's restaurant.

Neil has captured the essence of modern Cornwall in his contemporary treatment of seasonal local ingredients. The cooking has all the hallmarks of fine dining: some dishes so complicated they take two and a half days to make, yet their lightness (many are plant‑based), modern presentation, and the buzzy casual‑restaurant vibe in which they're served moves this into different territory.

The signature dish is a crapaudine beetroot with toasted buckwheat and pickled walnut emulsion whose sweet and smoky umami notes reveal the humble root to have been a supermodel in dowdy dress.

The other standout dish was a dessert of caramelised white chocolate feuilletine. When the diners next to us shared with the maître d' that it was the best dessert they'd ever eaten, they laid a gauntlet. Indeed, the unembellished presentation of this cream‑coloured puck could lead the uninitiated to plump for a more zhuzhed‑up dessert, but that would be a mistake. Fair to say we're still talking about how good it was.

Watergate Bay Hotel

On the beach, Watergate Bay, Cornwall, TR8 4AA watergatebay.co.uk

A self-catering agency with a hotel mindset. A sister brand to Watergate Bay Hotel, Beach Retreats offers 250 properties across Cornwall; all located within easy walking distance to the finest beaches.

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Take your cookery to the next level

If you want to improve your cookery skills the Ashburton Cookery School is the best place to start. With a range of over 50 cookery courses aimed at home cooks of all levels, you are sure to find a course to enhance your skills and enjoyment of cookery.

Our award-winning courses are taught by experienced chefs using only the best ingredients sourced from local producers.

Master a specific skill such as Knife Skills, Patisserie and Sauces, or learn to cook a favourite cuisine on courses such as Italian, Mexican, French, Indian and Thai. We even have a range of qualifications at our prestiguous Chefs Academy where you can train to cook professionally.

View our full range of courses on our website and see how you can take your cookery and home entertaining to the next level.

Est. 1992

Win a gourmet getaway at The Greenbank in Falmouth

Fall in love with Cornwall, as it wakes from its winter slumber, from the comfort of The Greenbank Hotel in Falmouth.

The hotel on the harbour is offering a fabulous Cornish Spring Getaway package from April 1 to June 5, 2024. From £159 for a room for two, soak up all the perks of the four‑star hotel. Tuck into award‑winning food at the Water's Edge restaurant, indulge in a sumptuous Cornish cream tea, relax with cocktail in hand in the lounge, or head downstairs to The Working Boat for smooth brews

and harbour views. We have one such stay to give away …

PRIZE An overnight stay for two people in a harbour view room with a Cornish cream tea on arrival, a delicious three‑course dinner in the Water's Edge restaurant and breakfast the next morning to fuel you up for the day ahead. Worth £300.

QUESTION: How many stars does The Greenbank Hotel have?

greenbank‑hotel.co.uk

To enter, visit food‑mag.co.uk/win

See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is May 15, 2024.

Image: Jake Timms

GET A TASTE OF

Nestled with views of the donkeys in an area of outstanding beauty, take sanctuary with our new fresh, local, seasonal menu

Open every day of the year from 9am

thedonkeysanctuary.org.uk/the-kitchen SIDMOUTH, EX10 0NU

Win a bundle of goodies from Trevethan Gin and Navas

As the days lengthen, the prospect of a refreshing gin and tonic becomes ever more enticing. The two halves of that delectable combination are reflected in this prize, a collaboration between two of Cornwall's premier drinks companies.

Trevethan Distillery's original 1929 gin is bold in flavour with subtle citrus and floral notes, using a blend of botanicals: juniper, coriander, cassia, angelica, cardamom, orange peel, lemon peel and vanilla. The pièce de résistance is Cornish gorse and elderflower, handpicked on the Pentillie Estate, which also provides the softest water from a natural spring.

The concept of a Cornish tonic water to match the Duchy's increasing array of craft gins was borne out of a conversation in a cosy pub in Mousehole in winter 2018. Navas takes water filtered naturally through the granite of Bodmin

Moor and combines it with botanicals grown in the biomes of the Eden Project (a percentage of every sale is donated to Eden's mission).

PRIZE A bottle of each of Trevethan's four gins: Original Dry, Chauffeur's Reserve, Grapefruit & Lychee and Honey Oak, worth £161. Plus, a Navas mixed taster case containing two of each of the following: original tonic, light tonic, garden tonic (rosemary and thyme), ginger ale, ginger beer and soda water, worth £22.

QUESTION In what year was Trevethan's Original Dry Gin created?

trevethandistillery.com navasdrinks.com

Image: Guy Harrop

Exploring the culinary magic of Tewkesbury Park’s award-winning executive chef...

Whilst Tewkesbury Park is renowned for its breathtaking views, award-winning 18-hole golf course and stunning interiors channelling a country house feel, it has also now become a true food destination, thanks to the brilliance of Anuj Thakur and his brigade.

Anuj’s unique food concept blends his Indian heritage with modern British cuisine that he likes to refer to as ‘untraditionally British’, with an unwavering focus on seasonality and locally sourced produce.

Amongst the must-try delights is Anuj’s signature Himalayan goat curry – or the salt-cured Cornish cod with braised leek, coconut and tamarind sauce.

Reflecting Tewkesbury Park’s status as a true food destination, the team have launched a new tasting menu for 2024, with five courses of culinary delights and accompanying hand-picked wine flight. Their hugely popular Sunday Brunch also makes its triumphant return this March.

Win a rural stay at The Collective at Woolsery

One of a new breed of rural retreats where stuffy decor and ceremonial service have been ditched in favour of funky interiors and innovative dining, The Collective at Woolsery is a dreamy place to unfurl in spring.

In one of the wildest stretches of countryside in the South West – between Hartland and Westward Ho!, where tractors dictate the speed limit – The Collective is a small group of hospitality venues from tech entrepreneurs Michael and Xochi Birch.

The Farmers Arms has gained nationwide attention for its produce‑led menus stocked with ingredients from its own Birch Farm. An assortment of cottages, rooms and suites provide accommodation

for those travelling to sample executive chef Ian Webber's cooking or to visit for a longer gourmet getaway.

Each room reflects the character of the historic building in which it's located. The Old Smithy cottage, for example, blends its original features with a neutral colour palette and contemporary touches, while the suites above the village shop exude 1940s glamour.

PRIZE A one‑night stay for two in a Shop Room, three‑course dinner for two at The Farmers Arms and a tour of Birch Farm (worth £375).

QUESTION What is the name of The Farmers Arms' executive chef?

woolsery.com

To enter, visit food‑mag.co.uk/win

See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is May 15, 2024.

Image: Matt Austin

Win a taste of spring from Trewithen Dairy

Spring marks a special time in the farming community as everything bursts into life. To celebrate the start of the season, the team at Trewithen Dairy are giving away a Luxury Cornish Cream Tea hamper.

Trewithen Dairy has always been owned and run by farmers, and The Clarke family have owned Greymare Farm in the Glynn Valley near Bodmin since 1976. In the early days, the Clarkes had their own herd, with Bill and Rachel bottling the milk once the children were in bed and delivering it early the next morning. They made the clotted cream themselves, potting it by hand.

Customers loved it, and by 2001 the milk bottling and cream‑making side of the business had become so successful that the family sold their herd and moved into full‑time production, using other

local farmers' milk and adding butter and yogurt to their portfolio of products.

Trewithen Dairy prides itself on its award winning products – especially its Clotted Cream and the newly released Barista Milk.

PRIZE A Trewithen Dairy Luxury Cornish Cream Tea hamper, worth £50, which includes: a pot of Boddington's strawberry jam, a pot of Trewithen Dairy clotted cream, a packet of Buttermilk Clotted Cream Fudge, a bottle of Champagne, a Box of Cornish Tea Smugglers Brew teabags, and four scones (plain or gluten free).

QUESTION What is the Clarke family farm called? trewithendairy.co.uk

To enter, visit food‑mag.co.uk/win See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is May 15, 2024.

Heating

to

of greenhouse gases. And if you live in a listed or period property you’ll know the financial

too. But

advanced secondary glazing, draught-proofing and loft insulation can help, reducing heat loss by up to 40% in a detached property and 50% in a mid-terrace. We’ve

The Oyster & Fish House

Dorset seafood guru Mark Hix serves dishes that put beautifully fresh local fish front and centre at this Lyme Regis restaurant, complete with panoramic views of the Jurassic Coast. Open Tuesday evening to Sunday lunchtime.

theoysterandfishhouse.co.uk

Salutation Inn

A smart restaurant with rooms in the centre of Topsham, run by the Williams‑Hawkes family and team. Serving light lunches, afternoon tea, tasting menus and seasonal event menus crafted from local ingredients of provenance.

salutationtopsham.co.uk

Flory Restaurant

An elegant and welcoming restaurant in Bodmin set across three floors, serving European inspired dishes that utilise quality Cornish ingredients. Open for brunch, lunch, dinner and Sunday lunch. Parking in Priory car park.

floryrestaurant.co.uk

Food Lifestyle directory

Marshford Organic Foods

Primrose Herd

Best known for their award‑ winning Cornish pork, this Truro butchery now stocks the full gamut of premium West Country meats, including free range duck and chicken, and the finest lamb and beef from traditional farms.

primroseherd.co.uk

The Fish Shed St Ives

Fresh, local and sustainable seafood on the beach in St Ives, Cornwall. The Fish Shed St Ives offers contemporary, bold and inventive food flavours with a unique cocktail menu and wine list to match.

thefishshedstives.co.uk

Black Bee Honey

Black Bee Honey is a collective of beekeepers, and certified B Corp, producing 100 per cent British, single origin honey. Two per cent of turnover is used to create wildflower meadows.

blackbeehoney.com

Visit Marshford's farm shop in Northam, north Devon, for a fabulous array of fresh organic veggies, salads and herbs (many of which are homegrown).

Local fish, meat, eggs, bread, dairy products (including a selection of interesting cheeses) and a wide variety of groceries (all environmentally friendly and organic) are also available from the store, while veg boxes and produce can be delivered.

Visit the shop or order online for collection and local deliveries.

marshford.co.uk

Stockists

These are just a few of the exceptional places you can pick up a copy of Food Lifestyle. Find the full list at food mag.co.uk

Bath

Always Sunday Town + House

Beckford Bottle Shop

Chandos Deli

Colonna & Small's

Cortado Café

No.15 by GuestHouse Hotels

Picnic Coffee

Robun

The Fine Cheese Co.

The Thoughtful Bakery

Cornwall

Appleton's Bar & Restaurant

Da Bara Bakery St Mawes

Electric Bakery

Fee's Food

Fistral Beach Hotel and Spa

Great Cornish Food Store

Hooked on the Rocks

Kota

Mr Scorse Gourmet

Deli and Wines

Padstow Farm Shop

Porthminster Beach Café

St Kew Farmshop & Café

St Michaels Resort

St Moritz Hotel

Strong Aldofo's

The Alverton Hotel

The Godolphin

The Greenbank Hotel

The Headland

Hotel, Cottages & Spa

The Idle Rocks Hotel

The Rising Sun, Truro

The Square at Porthleven

Tinkture

Trevaskis Farm

Trevisker's Kitchen

Trudgian Farm Shop

Watergate Bay Hotel

Devon

Ashburton Cookery School

Ashburton Deli

Ben's Farm Shop

Boringdon Hall Hotel

Bovey Castle

Darts Farm

Gidleigh Park

Glebe House

Harbour Beach Club

Johns of Appledore

Lewtrenchard Manor

Lympstone Manor

Marshford Organic Foods

Rangemoors

River Cottage

Riverford Field Kitchen

The Bull Inn

The Cheese Larder

The Horse

The Lilac Bakery

The Lost Kitchen

Waitrose Okehampton

Dorset

Acorn Inn

Crab House Cafe

Langham Wine Estate

Lilac Restaurant & Wine Bar

Majestic Wine, Dorchester

RISE Market & Bakery

Seaside Boarding House

Soulshine

Summer Lodge Hotel

SWIM

The Club House

The Oyster and Fish House

The Three Horseshoes

The Queens Arms

Tom's Lyme Regis

Town Mill Bakery

Waitrose Bridport

Gloucestershire

Arc Espresso Bar + Deli

Daylesford Organic Farm

Ritual Coffee

Roasters Bar & Kitchen

Scandinavian Coffee Pod

Tewkesbury Park

The Cheeseworks

The Slaughter's Country Inn

Vinotopia

Somerset Brown & Forrest

Chandos Deli

Dunster Living

FARA

Farrington's Farm

Flourish Food Hall

Lord Poulett Arms

MAKE

Number One Bruton

Teals

The Barrington Boar

The Bath Priory

The Cotley Inn

The Talbot Inn

White Row Farm Shop

Wiltshire

Little Rituals

Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa

Majestic Wine, Devizes

Majestic Wine, Marlborough

The Bath Arms

The Beckford Arms

The Bradley Hare