Food Magazine March / April 2023

Nestled in 28 private acres over-looking the Exe estuary and set amongst the tranquil beauty of Devon, Lympstone Manor offers both luxury and more casual break experiences. Explore the hotel’s very own vineyard, outdoor swimming pool and tennis courts all set alongside the Pool House Restaurant and Bar. Alternatively, relax in your choice of luxurious rooms, suites or shepherd huts and indulge yourself with Michael Caines’ Michelin starred cuisine and a world-class wine cellar

Published February 2023 food-mag.co.uk

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PUBLISHER

Salt Media ideas@saltmedia.co.uk 01271 859299 saltmedia.co.uk

Supper clubs aren't a new phenomenon, but after two years of caution over group gatherings the sociable feasts have made a comeback.

EDITOR

Kathryn Lewis

EDITORIAL

Abi Manning

Melissa Morris

Rosanna Rothery

Melissa Stewart

Selena Young

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Jo Rees

ADVERTISING

Nick Cooper

Claire Fegan 01271 859182

PUBLISHING

Charlotte Cummins

Tamsin Powell

ACCOUNTS

Richard Bailey

PHOTOGRAPHY

Mat Austin, Mat Arney/Hailer Media, Daffodil PR, Rebecca Dickson, Jake Eastham, Rachel Hoile, Jim Holden, Steven Joyce, Remco Merbis, Anna Bowkis Photography, Lateef Photography, Madeline Rose Photography, Paul Wilkinson Photography, James Ram, Michael Ruggier

COVER

Steven Joyce for Barnaby's

THANKS

Thanks to our clients for supporting the magazine that supports the South West's food and hospitality industry.

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While every effort has been made to ensure that adverts, details and articles appear correctly, Food cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the contents of this publication. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of its publisher or editor.

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As an opportunity to meet like-minded people and eat fantastic food in unconventional settings, these communal suppers are currently among the most exciting food and drink experiences to be had in the South West. Turn to page 16 to read Rosanna's roundup of the best feasts taking place in 2023.

Our cover star this month is a rather ravishing collection of dishes from the team at Barnaby's at Trevibban Mill in Cornwall. The restaurant is one of Melissa's picks in her staycation guide to Padstow (page 22), which reveals the must-visit places to eat, drink, shop and stay in the celeb-chef playground.

Also in this issue, the team share their insider hacks to help you save money while

supporting independent food and drink businesses. Flick to page 8 to find 20 ways to show your fave indies some love while navigating the cost-of-living crisis. As usual, we've been eating out across the region and are happy to spill the beans on our experiences. I was lucky enough to score a table at Crocadon's opening weekend – turn to page 28 to get the low-down on the farm-to-table restaurant from ex-L'Enclume chef Dan Cox.

We've also got a duo of competitions to ease you into festival season, including tickets to both Porthleven Food Festival and English Riviera Food and Music Festival up for grabs. And, finally, barbecue fans should go straight to page 55 for an opportunity to win a Morso Grill worth over £700.

Enjoy the issue.

Kathryn Lewis

Follow us on Instagram @foodmagazinesw

March & April

6 THE HIT LIST

Latest foodie news and events.

8 20 WAYS ... ... to eat well in a cost-of-living crisis.

16

SOCIAL FEASTING

The return of the supper club.

22 STAYCATION GUIDE

Where to eat, drink, stay and shop in Padstow.

28 REVIEWS

Eating out across the region.

40

WEEKEND COOKING

Seasonal recipes from leading chefs and producers.

53 WIN

The chance to bag tickets to two food and drink festivals, plus a Morso Grill worth over £700.

The Hit List

The latest foodie news and events for your calendar

GUEST CHEFS AT HOLM

This spring, Holm in South Petherton, Somerset, will host a series of dinners in collaboration with celebrated chefs from across the South West. The line-up includes Gill Meller (pictured) on March 1, Harriet Mansell on March 29, Ana Ortiz on April 19 and a finale supper with Sam Lomas on May 17. Tickets cost £85.

2

DINNER PARTY WITH POLIZZI

Take a seat at the table with esteemed hotelier Alex Polizzi at Hotel Endsleigh on March 2.

The glamorous Devon hotel is part of The Polizzi Collection, a family-run trio of hotels which also includes Hotel Tresanton in St Mawes, Cornwall, and The Star in Alfriston, East Sussex. Alex is best known for turning around the fortunes of ailing hotel businesses via her hit TV show The Hotel Inspector. The event includes a threecourse dinner, welcome drinks, canapés and coffee. Tickets cost £85.

3|

CALLING ALL WINE ENTHUSIASTS

Throughout March and April, South West Wine School will host its Wine & Spirit Education Trust courses at Darts Farm near Topsham, Devon.

The internationally recognised qualifications are open to curious wine lovers as well as those working within the hospitality and drinks industries. The one-day Level 1 course takes place on March 3 (£210), the three-day Level 2 course begins on April 21 (£495) and the new six-day Level 3 course starts on March 13 (£875).

4| EASTER BAKING SESH

Rather than tucking into shop-bought hot cross buns and babka this Easter, learn how to craft your own seasonal bakes at Riverford Field Kitchen's workshops on March 20 and 21.

Guest chef Andy Tyrrell will lead the sessions at the Buckfastleigh restaurant and teach beginner bakers everything from enriching and kneading to proving and shaping skills. Tickets cost £150.

5

PING'S POP-UP

Get stuck into four Malaysian-inspired dishes at Ping Coombes' pop-up supper club in Bath. The MasterChef champion will cook a surprise menu at The Moorfields dining pub on March 22 and 23, and April 26 and 27. Tickets cost £55.

6

KITCHEN EXPERIMENTS

Fancy learning to cook something outside your usual repertoire? Very Vietnamese, Oodles of Noodles, Ethiopian Cooking and Korean Kitchen are just a few of the culinary classes taking place at Natural Cookery School in Nailsworth, Gloucestershire, this March and April.

The courses are run by experienced chef Erin Baker and are a hands-on combination of demos, tips, cooking and, of course, tasting.

7

BREAKING BREAD

Meet like-minded foodies at The Lost Gardens of Heligan's seasonal supper in Cornwall on March 24. The regular Lost Suppers are a great opportunity to dine on predominantly veggie dishes crafted from uber-local ingredients while chatting with friends –and strangers – by candlelight. Tickets cost £60.

8

CORNWALL COOKOUT

Porthleven Food Festival returns for more foodie antics on April 21-23.

The harbourside festival will be bustling with food stalls, live music and feasting nights, plus sizzling cookery demos in the Chefs' Theatre hosted by Great British Menu chef Jude Kereama. Culinary heavyweights on the line-up include Josh Eggleton, Mick Smith and Elly Wentworth.

The event is free to attend, but for full access to all of the gastronomic goings-on we'd recommend booking a Weekend Gourmet ticket (£35). Head to page 53 for your chance to win two tickets.

9

SEASHORE SUPPER

Get to grips with coastal foraging and alfresco cooking at Fore Adventure's Kayak, Fish, Forage & Feast experience at Studland Bay on April 29.

The fun starts with a sea kayaking and fishing trip around Dorset's beautiful coastline, before foraging for sea vegetables and seaweed at nearby creeks and islands. Attendees will learn how to cook their haul and then feast on their finds in wild countryside. Tickets cost £140.

ways to eat well in a cost-of-living crisis

The current economic climate is reducing everyone's disposable income and making life extremely challenging for independent food and drink businesses. Want to support them while also saving cash? We've found 20 ways to do both

The Oyster & Fish House

MAKE THE MOST OF SET MENUS

Many high‑end South West restaurants offer fantastic‑value set menus on weekdays. One such venue is Salumi Bar & Eatery in Plymouth, which has introduced a monthly prix fixe menu (Monday to Friday) where diners surrender choice but don't have to compromise on quality.

‘We're keen to offer something that gives our customers a reason to dine out, despite the current economic climate. There are some real showstopper dishes on a menu that's full of nostalgia and comfort,’ says Salumi chef owner Dave Jenkins. 2

BUY DIRECT

Cutting out the middleman saves money. Most small‑scale producers, from farmers to winemakers and coffee roasters, have webshops through which customers can buy goods direct.

Look for free‑delivery offers as additional postage costs can eat up any product savings. To hit the minimum spend for free delivery, consider buddying up with a friend and combining your orders.

3

REDEFINE THE LONG WEEKEND

Fridays and Saturdays are the most expensive nights for South West hotel stays. However, Sunday nights are often much cheaper than Fridays so shifting your weekend along a day can result in a significant saving. 4

REFER A FRIEND

The food and drink subscription services that took off in the lockdowns have become part of the everyday landscape and many run refer‑a‑friend schemes where both parties benefit.

Check out Riverford Organic (£15 credit per person), The Dorset Meat Company (10 per cent off next order per person), The Spicery (£5 credit for original customer, 10 per cent off orders over £20 for the friend) and Field & Flower (25 per cent off for original customer, 20 per cent off for the friend).

‘Shifting your weekend along a day can result in a significant saving’

Coffee Co.

‘Where else would you find lunch at a Michelin-starred restaurant for £29.50? ’

The Masons Arms

Roastworks

GIFT A DINING EXPERIENCE

Instead of buying a material birthday present that just adds to the growing pile of “stuff”, gift loved ones a dining experience at a restaurant on their bucket list.

9

GET CUP SMART

Can't compromise on your morning flat white on the way to the office? Cut waste and save cash by packing a reusable. Most independent coffee shops reward customers with a discount when they present a reusable cup. You can get a sturdy one for around £15 (we like KeepCup's colourful range) and will quickly make up the expenditure through savings.

UP

Most indies offer vouchers that can be purchased and printed from their websites, so the recipient will have something to open. Chances are you'll be their plus one so it's a win‑win. 6 BULK

No, we're not suggesting you get a Costco card. Lots of indie producers sell their products in bulk online: Roastworks Coffee Co. in Devon retails 1kg bags of The Truth and The Espresso blends (£25 each) – a £5 saving on buying five 200g bags (£6 per bag).

Camel Valley Vineyard in Cornwall offers a ten per cent discount on 12 or more bottles, while Bristol Beer Factory sells 36‑pint bag‑in‑box versions of its core range which saves around £45 on the same quantity in cans. Can't manage the volume? Split the order with a friend.

7

MAKE LUNCH THE NEW DINNER

Many restaurants run excellent value lunchtime menus. Chef Mark Dodson, who received the Award for Special Contribution at the Trencherman's Awards 2022, offers just such a deal at The Masons Arms in Devon. Where else would you find a three‑course lunch at a Michelin‑starred restaurant for £29.50? At The Ethicurean in Somerset, lunchtime guests can sample head chef Mark McCabe's hyper‑seasonal multi‑course experience for £75 per person – the evening version costs £150.

8

GO OFF‑PEAK

The cost of a staycation in the South West is hugely dependent on the time of year, with peak season and school holidays the most pricey. However, early spring and late autumn are much cheaper and still fantastic times to holiday in the region: the beaches are quiet, the coast path uncrowded and restaurant tables easy to book at short notice. Independent hotels will also have more variability in pricing as they can respond quickly to booking trends.

BE NEWSLETTER SAVVY

Be the first to hear about staycation deals, set menus and product sales by joining the mailing list of independent food and drink businesses. Many producers with webshops also offer an introductory ten per cent discount code when you sign up.

The Food Magazine newsletter is a great source of insider information, and regularly features the best last‑minute hotel deals and seasonal foodie events – sign up at food‑mag.co.uk/newsletter. For special offers and events at South West fine dining restaurants, visit the Trencherman's Guide website: trenchermans‑guide.com

SHOP AT FARM SHOPS AND MARKETS

Buying organic fruit and veg at local farmers' markets and farm shops is often cheaper than at the supermarket. Many farms in the South West are organic in all but certification (the process is expensive so many don't do it) so ask about their growing practices. You'll also benefit from fresher produce and a reduced carbon footprint thanks to fewer food miles.

ORDER THE HOUSE RED

The era of being too embarrassed to choose the cheapest bottle of wine is over. A good restaurant won't have dud options on the menu and will have picked something decent for its house wines. Plus, everyone knows the second cheapest bottle has the highest markup.

ZERO IN ON ZERO WASTE

Replenish storecupboard essentials for a fraction of the price of the supermarket by shopping at zero‑waste stores. Fill Kilner jars with dry goods such as oats, nuts, flours, grains, rice and pasta and you'll be surprised by the savings. The most notable are on spices and dried herbs, which can be refilled for pennies. 14

BUY YESTERDAY'S SOURDOUGH

With sourdough loaves coming in at around £4 it's a contemporary luxury. However, lots of independent bakeries sell the previous day's bread at a greatly reduced price. Get to the bakery early for your pick of the pack, slice it at home, freeze (it freezes brilliantly) and then toast on demand. Slicing a fresh loaf in half and freezing half as above will also give your loaf longevity.

15

BE CONTAINER SAVVY

Some indie producers reward customers who return packaging, which is then either reused or recycled by the producer.

Trewithen Dairy has 150 self‑serve machines across the South West, from which customers can refill milk bottles (paid for on the first use) at a reduced rate.

In Gloucestershire, Rave Coffee has installed a refill station at its Cirencester coffee shop so customers can replenish their stock of just‑roasted beans at a discounted price. Take your own container and get a further 50p off.

16

GET APP HAPPY

There are lots of apps offering discounts on chain restaurants but you can also use your phone to save money at indie eateries. Jurassic Feast is a fantastic portal for diners who want to support small and save money at restaurants on Dorset's south coast. The monthly membership costs £2.99 and gives subscribers access to offers at restaurants such as Robin Wylde, Mark Hix's The Oyster & Fish House and Millside. Its Just Visiting plan (£4.99) provides holidaymakers with access for two weeks.

Foodstuff in Bristol is an independent alternative to food delivery giants like JustEat. It works exclusively with independent venues, pays riders a living wage and promises zero‑emission delivery. As well as delivering food, the app offers special discounts at hero restaurants such as Flour & Ash, Salt & Malt and Danny's Burgers.

17

EMBRACE OBSCURE CUTS

There's no denying that sourcing high‑welfare chicken breasts or rib‑eye steaks from the local butcher will be more expensive than factory‑farmed supermarket versions. However, independent butchers offer a wider variety of obscure cuts which are much more affordable.

Thrifty beef cuts like cheek, brisket and shin are packed with flavour and incredible when cooked low and slow. Lamb shoulder is a more affordable alternative to leg, or try grilled chump or slow‑cooked breast. If you don't have a local butcher, online retailers such as Pipers Farm and Coombe Farm Organic sell a wide variety of cuts – they also offer meat boxes which are good value if you have the freezer space.

18

BRING BACK THE DOGGY BAG

There's no shame in asking to take home leftovers if you've over ordered – what you don't eat at dinner can be tomorrow's lunch. Restaurants across the South West are actively encouraging customers to take food home: Queen of Cups in Glastonbury has stocked up on biodegradable containers and reports many customers packing dips and cold mezze to take home – with an additional side of bread to be picked up with the bill.

19

GRAB A MAGIC BAG

Apps like Too Good To Go are a way to bag a bargain while also paying indie venues a small amount for food that would otherwise go to waste. Magic Bags – a surprise assortment of goodies from the day, such as cakes, pastries and sandwiches – are the most popular option and normally cost around £3.

You'll need to pick up purchases at a time specified by the venue – usually around closing time.

20

DON'T WASTE GOOD WINE

Wine preservation systems are used by restaurants to give wine longevity – a bottle can be kept open for a few days in excellent condition. Until now these systems have been for commercial use only but Eto's patented preservation system brings the same benefits to the domestic market. The slick contraption is pricey at £139, but you'll soon make your money back if you're guilty of wasting expensive wine by not drinking it soon enough.

‘There's no shame in asking to take your leftovers home if you over order’

Millside

at Nancarrow Farm

The Food Reader Awards are back and voting is open!

It's time to get behind your favourite restaurants, dining pubs, foodie hotels, cocktail bars, chefs, drinks, farm shops and more in the Food Reader Awards 2023. The first round of voting is open until March 14 and you can nominate any independent food and drink business in the South West.

The second round of voting will open on March 17 and closes on March 31. The winners will be crowned at a celebration supper and ceremony at Nancarrow Farm in Cornwall on May 15.

Social feasting

Sharing‑style feasts are popping up in all kinds of cool places, from a Victorian walled garden to a converted cowshed. Rosanna Rothery discovers some magical settings where you can join the social dining set

The Ethicurean Somerset

Multiple courses, music and storytelling combine in the ceremonial feasts at The Ethicurean, an idyllic Victorian walled garden in Somerset. It's a suitably bucolic setting when you're celebrating the rich folklore of the British Isles with seasonal events such as mid‑winter wassail, St George's Day, the summer solstice and Apple Day.

Feasts centre around the bounty of the garden, plus produce from the surrounding countryside, fashioned into dishes such as sourdough with house ferment and whipped ewe's curd, and ember‑baked crown prince squash with toasted pumpkin seeds and salt‑pickled damson tapenade.

Fruity harvests from trees and bushes are crafted into desserts such as apple, blackcurrant and spruce‑needle pudding and post‑dinner delights like sweetcorn fudge, and blackberry and meadowsweet pastilles.

‘There's a palpable excitement about gorging on produce at peak deliciousness,’ says founder and director Matthew Pennington. ‘Our feasts allow for valuable time to catch up socially, and storytelling, laughter and setting the world to rights is the encouraged etiquette.’

Guests all arrive at the same time for drinks before storyteller Martin Maudsley and musician Fiona Barrow introduce the evening's theme with songs and tales. The feast that follows includes interludes of storytelling to tie in with the dishes being served. Audience participation is encouraged: two of the guests may be invited to play a part in the festivities by hiding something unique in a pair of puddings, thus randomly bestowing honours on fellow diners.

The remainder of the evening is spent in the torchlit orchard or garden with a secret ceremony which only guests can witness, or fireside where they can fall into conversation and while away the night.

Matthew sums up: ‘At The Ethicurean, we feast in a bountiful garden, cultivating close friendships centred around food and pleasure‑seeking, finding life's purest joys in the unique richness of human encounters ‑ exactly as Epicurus wisely philosophised.’

‘Storytelling, laughter and setting the world to rights is the encouraged etiquette’

Wild Artichokes Devon

A pothole‑riddled lane on a small industrial estate in Kingsbridge is not where you'd expect to find an epicentre of extravagant feasting. Yet, as soon as guests step over the threshold at Wild Artichokes, they get the sense of being part of an exclusive secret dining club.

The venue is run by two dynamic foodies: chef, cookbook author and The Guardian columnist Jane Baxter (The Carved Angel and Riverford Field Kitchen) and Sam Miller (Riverford Field Kitchen) who has had a stellar career in the hospitality industry.

Guests are seated next to new faces who usually become new friends by the end of the meal.

‘Time and time again we witness a natural ease develop round the table with guests bonding over shared experiences and laughing with a shared sense of humour,’ says Sam. ‘It often results in hugs, swapping of email addresses and a promise to reunite in the future.’

The set seasonal menu is designed for sharing and comprises half a dozen starters which include the likes of smoked salmon okonomiyaki, one main course such as partridge served with an array of vegetable dishes, and a trio of puddings.

‘Over the years, many of our customers have become our friends,’ says Sam. ‘It's almost as if an ownership and a pride in being part of the WA family starts to emerge, and they come to eat “with us” rather than just going out.

‘There's something so special about the love and appreciation we feel from diners at the end of a busy night, which means a lot to our small, finely tuned and hard‑working team. I think it's why we do it.’

‘We witness a natural ease develop round the table with guests bonding over shared experiences’

Knightor Winery Cornwall

A feast night in a winery sounds tempting, especially to the ears of those who seek delicious drops to elevate their food. The team at Knightor are already known for producing exclusive Cornish wines but now they're showcasing their creativity in the kitchen too. A full line‑up of communal suppers is scheduled for 2023, pairing world cuisines with some of the county's finest tipples.

The winery is set amid four acres of orchards above St Austell Bay on the south Cornish coast, and the social feasting takes place on long candlelit tables in the threshing barn or, in warmer weather, the courtyard. Plans are also afoot to serve guests at tables set among the vines.

‘Dishes arrive on sharing platters, encouraging everyone to get stuck in,’ says Knightor's Gemma Kettle. ‘Relaxed, informal and sociable dining allows guests to have fun as well as to meet and start conversations with people who share a common enthusiasm.

‘Our ethos has always been about the serious enjoyment of wine and food as the two go hand in hand. Gathering people together – friends and strangers alike – to experience this pleasure and create new memories is hugely important to us.’

Previous feast nights have included Cuban and Scandi‑style spreads, and frivolities often end with after‑dinner live music. Upcoming events include a winemakers' dinner, a jazz night and a mixology night.

‘Plans are afoot to serve guests at tables set among the vines’

Rusty Pig Devon

Feasting at Rusty Pig in Ottery St Mary involves a blind menu, a guessing game and plenty of communal fun. Known for championing ethical, seasonal and locally sourced produce, the indie restaurant has a Feasting House downstairs which is solely dedicated to social dining. Guests arrive for drinks (particularly popular is the Rusty Pig Fizz pressed from grapes grown at vineyards in the next village) and, once everyone is seated, the chefs send out the first course. Supper consists of tasting courses based around the likes of game, whole roast goose, locally reared Dexter beef, pork, and line‑caught fish from the Devon coast. Everyone is fed the same menu, allowing guests to discuss each dish. At the end of the feast, chef owner Robin Rea addresses the assembled diners to chat about each course: what it was, how it was cooked and where the produce was sourced.

‘This way of dining makes us a zero‑waste restaurant and it also means our guests get to try ingredients they might not usually order,’ says Robin.

‘They enjoy the surprise element and say they like the fact they don't have to make difficult choices. It's fun for them to decipher what's in each dish and it's sometimes quite remarkable what some people think they've just eaten.’

‘It's quite remarkable what some people think they've just eaten’

The Sitwell Supper Club Exmoor

A sociable supper in an Exmoor barn hosted by William Sitwell (The Telegraph food writer, ex Waitrose Food editor, and broadcaster) in the company of a legion of locals makes for a delicious and rustic experience. Regular feasts at the food critic's family farm near Wiveliscombe allow 70 guests the opportunity to sample the cooking of an ever‑changing line‑up of top chefs who've been lured to cook for a night in deepest rural Somerset.

‘The Sitwell Supper Club is unique in bringing great chefs to west Somerset,’ says William. ‘In the last few months we've had the likes of Atul Kochhar, Anna Haugh and Adam Handling.’ In summer guests eat at one long table in a converted cowshed, while in winter events are housed in a cosy marquee.

‘People come from far and wide but we are especially popular with locals who have met and made great friends at our table,’ he says. ‘These days it's a wonderful way to socialise so, aside from fabulous food and wine, the supper club is about something we all need: enjoyment and laughter.’

Suppers are planned across the year, with chefs and dates announced six weeks in advance. Shelina Permalloo's Mauritian feast is scheduled for April 28 while other chefs mooted to be making their way to the moor this year are Tommy Heaney, Mark Hix and Richard Corrigan.

‘chefs lured to cook for a night in deepest rural somerset’

Padstow

Perfect for those who like to plan a holiday around bucket‑list dining experiences, the challenge in Padstow is squeezing everything in. Local Melissa Morris reveals a handful of non‑negotiable highlights

Paul Ainsworth at No6

Where to stay

Most of the stone cottages crammed into the narrow streets at the heart of this historic harbour town offer somewhere to rest your head, with a wealth of self‑catering and B&B options for those who like the freedom and flexibility of a DIY stay.

However, if you want to completely immerse yourself in the highest echelons of Padstow's gourmet elite, hero chefs Paul Ainsworth and Rick Stein both offer luxury lodgings located a stone's throw from their restaurants.

Paul's 18th‑century Padstow Townhouse has six individually styled suites, which share a kitchen pantry with honesty bar stocked with indulgent goodies. Those seeking slumber courtesy of the Stein crew are spoilt for choice, with options ranging from sumptuous rooms above the iconic Seafood Restaurant in the centre of town to holiday cottages and shepherd's huts in the countryside.

Also in town, perched on the hillside looking out over the Camel Estuary, is the award‑winning Padstow Harbour Hotel. Its 58 rooms are littered with luxe little treats, such as Bramley toiletries and decanters filled with complimentary gin and sherry, and most reveal stunning harbour views.

Those who want the best of both worlds (easy access to a wealth of restaurants and the peace and quiet of a rural coastal escape) will find it at THE PIG at Harlyn Bay. A mere five‑minute drive from Padstow but on a picturesque stretch of coastline, it's a perfect base for staycationers who want to punctuate walks on the coast path with bucket‑list dining experiences. There's also a highly rated restaurant within the hotel.

THE PIG at Harlyn Bay

Rick Stein's St Edmunds House

A weekend in Padstow wouldn't be complete without sampling the wares of at least one celebrity chef. Both Ainsworth and Stein offer fine dining and casual restaurant experiences in the town and slightly further afield (see The Mariners in Rock and The Cornish Arms at St Merryn).

Rick was Padstow's original culinary kingpin and a visit to his and Jill's flagship venue The Seafood Restaurant, which has presided over the harbour since 1975, is a must. Booking is essential in peak periods, but it's worth forward‑planning to tuck into a tower of sumptuous seafood and sample classic Stein dishes such as Singapore chilli crab and Indonesian seafood curry. For a more informal Stein experience, check out St Petroc's Bistro (which also houses a collection of chic bedrooms).

Hot on Rick's heels was Paul Ainsworth, the Michelin‑starred Ramsay graduate who's also built an empire of epochal dining experiences in Padstow. Paul Ainsworth at No6 is where the chef's team create intricate nine‑course tasting menus using the finest local ingredients, while Caffè Rojano is its more casual counterpart centred around Spanish and Italian small plates.

If you visit in summer, keep an eye out for pop‑up feasts in the Padstow Kitchen Garden polytunnels (featuring own‑reared and homegrown produce) and supper clubs at Atlantic Coast Express, a hidden gem on the Camel Trail which is accessible only by bike or on foot.

The perennially popular Prawn on the Lawn serves scrumptious small plates and fresh seafood at its town‑centre site. You can combine its award‑winning food with fine Cornish wines at its new pop‑up venue, Barnaby's at Trevibban Mill, which launches in May.

Families should make a beeline for Greens of Padstow for its mini‑golf fun and use of wholesome local produce. Adults can savour the delicious food and captivating views while little ones burn off excess energy on the golf course. Whatever time of year you plan to eat your way around Padstow, make sure to book tables in advance as the staycation hotspot is always busy in summer, while some venues close in winter.

Barnaby's

Greens of Padstow

Barnaby's

In beautiful Lyme Regis, follow the signs and the River Lym to the Town Mill, opposite sits an exciting new concept brought to you by the Millside. The place to be…

Where to drink

It's not just lunch and dinner that the Stein clan have sorted: your morning caffeine hit is also covered courtesy of Stein's Coffee Shop. A collaboration between Rick's son Charlie and Origin Coffee Roasters founder Tom Sobey, it's a great spot to sink a locally roasted flat white. In this coastal town where 'open' signs are seasonal, the year‑round aroma of espresso can usually be traced to Cherry Trees, the humble harbourside cafe with legendary home‑baked cakes that make it a mecca for locals as well as tourists.

When the sun is over the yardarm, Padstow's many pubs fling open their doors. Nestled among them are several noteworthy specialist bars: Cornish gin giant Tarquin's has a school and shop (with the emphasis on school, sampling and shopping rather than settling in and relaxing) and 17 Duke Street, a bar and bottle shop which serves premium spirits, Champagne and wines. For cocktails, head to the cosy enclave of Ruby's Bar (another member of the Stein collective) or, if you're celebrating, push the boat out and book Ainsworth's exclusive reservation‑only cocktail bar, Ci Ci's. If beer is more your bag, Padstow Brewing Co. has a couple of tasting venues in town where you can enjoy guided tasting sessions, special events or simply a ‘pint of Padstow’

Wine and cider buffs should schedule some time for a trip to Trevibban Mill where they can tour the vineyard and orchards, taste the award‑winning produce and pick up bottles to sample at home.

Where to shop

Padstow has a refreshingly independent shopping scene, so leave time for mooching and plenty of room in your suitcase.

First port of call for self‑catering new arrivals should be Padstow Farm Shop, which stocks free‑range and pesticide‑free produce from the family‑owned Tregirls Farm and other local suppliers. Top up with fresh seafood and deli delights courtesy of Rick Stein's fishmongers and deli in town. Then swing by BinTwo, just off the harbour, for a superb selection of expertly sourced wine.

Once the shelves of your holiday‑cottage kitchen are crammed, you can focus on more leisurely pursuits like browsing books in the comforting cocoon of Padstow Bookseller, gazing at the beautiful handmade glass of local artist Jo Downs and pondering paintings in Padstow Gallery.

A gaggle of well‑known clothing brands have a presence in the town but dotted among them are indie treasures like Fusion, Maxari and Aloft, whose look is laid‑back, layered and perfectly Padstow.

Ci Ci's

Aloft

REVIEWS

Crocadon

St Mellion, Saltash, Cornwall, PL12 6RL

WHAT'S THE DRAW?

Putting together a feature earlier this year on where chefs plan to eat out in 2023, the name that came up more than any other was Crocadon. Many of the South West's best chefs were following Dan Cox's regenerative farming project on the Cornwall/Devon border and eagerly anticipating the opening of its restaurant.

The ex‑L'Enclume chef took on the 120‑acre farm in St Mellion in 2017. With an ambition ‘to celebrate the connection between food and agriculture’, Dan worked on restoring the health of the soil, introduced rare and heritage‑breed cattle and sheep, and even established an on‑site microbrewery and pottery.

The restaurant, housed in a converted cattle barn, finally opened in February 2023 and via innovative evening tasting menus (Thursday to Saturday) and Sunday feasting lunches is serving almost exclusively homegrown and home‑reared produce on own‑thrown pottery.

WHO'S COOKING?

Prior to taking on Crocadon Farm, Roux Scholarship winner Dan worked for the Simon Rogan Group. While some of his seven years in the Lake District were spent in the kitchen of three‑Michelin‑starred L'Enclume, he also helped Simon establish the biodynamic Our Farm, where he learnt many of the regenerative farming techniques he's continued in Cornwall.

WHAT TO ORDER?

The evening tasting menu is available in short and long formats but, if you've made the trip to this rural hideaway, it's worth committing to the full experience.

From the 14 dishes we sampled, highlights included lion's mane mushroom served two ways (raw, and lacquered with barbecue sauce and cooked over fire until meaty and umami); tiny cups of beer‑infused pastry filled with smoked cultured cream and sweet dehydrated carrot; a silky smooth chicken flan topped with crisp skin; and hand‑dived Start Point scallops in a honey and fermented dragon chilli sauce, served with delicate slices of pickled squash and a squash puree.

Each dish was artfully composed to contrast bitter, sweet and acidic flavours, with everything on the plate serving a purpose. Dan and team preserve as much of the farm's harvest as possible, so many dishes feature pickled, fermented and cured ingredients. If you shy away from bold contrasting flavours this may not be your bag. However, if you're thrilled by genuinely interesting dining experiences that make you stop and think about each component and how it made the journey from soil to plate, you're going to love it.

FOOD'S TIP

Book somewhere to stay nearby so you can lean into the drinks pairings. The team source an exciting selection of natural and biodynamic wines and ciders from small‑scale producers such as Ripe (which makes its wild‑fermented cider at Crocadon Farm). Non‑alcoholic options are available too.

crocadon.farm

Genuinely intriguing dishes that prompt you to stop and think about each component make the opening of this much‑anticipated restaurant worth the wait, says Kathryn Lewis

The Farmers Arms

From the food and customer service to the furnishings and quirky art the quality of everything at this village pub is knockout, yet delivered in a wonderfully unstuffy way, discovers Rosanna Rothery

Woolsery, near Bideford, north Devon, EX39 5QS

WHAT'S THE DRAW?

Imagine your dream dining pub: a dynamic and creative chef crafting sublime dishes, its own farm supplying homegrown and reared (plus foraged) produce, interiors that ooze humour and style, and luxurious accommodation that mashes nostalgia and vintage glam with modern‑day luxe.

A stay at The Farmers Arms (part of The Collective at Woolsery, a curation of village enterprises created by tech entrepreneurs Michael and Xochi Birch) is a heady mixture of all of the above, and run by a team passionate about delivering it in style.

The full experience – which includes making the most of the botanical cocktails and unusual wines – should involve incorporating a stay in one of The Collective's newly renovated cottages, rooms or suites. The accommodation is mostly retro in vibe but ranges from modern country and 1940s chic to the open‑plan luxe of a former smithy.

We spent a night at Hillside Cottage, a four‑bedroom property which delivers a deluxe take on traditional country living. A large garden (still being landscaped when we visited in January) will offer alfresco eating and lounging opportunities, while two log burners allow guests to snuggle up by the fire with a glass of wine. An ancient well in the dining area makes for a fascinating feature, but don't worry, it's covered with glass so there's no risk of falling in after sampling the pub's collection of local ales.

WHO'S COOKING?

Executive chef Ian Webber, formerly head chef of Michelin‑starred Gidleigh Park, is a visionary with an endless stream of ideas about how to fashion forgotten or neglected native plants and herbs into flavourful fare. His delicious dishes are also centred around the rare heritage breeds reared on the pub's own Birch Farm, where pigs and sheep are butchered on‑site into traditional cuts of meat, sausages and air‑dried charcuterie.

WHAT TO ORDER?

Dining highlights included prime cut and braised shoulder of Birch Farm hogget (Ian utilises the whole carcass so you'll get different cuts each time you visit) offset with a vinaigrette made with fermented and pickled local ransom, blanched nettles and a lemon geranium vinegar. Accompanying confit parsnips (baked on salt then cooked in lamb fat) had been slow cooked to perfection and were complemented with creamed spinach and kale. Boulangère potatoes with shallots and rosemary, house‑made spiced lamb sausage and crisped parsnip skins added superb layers of flavour and texture.

Our vegetarian dish showcased equal artistry: a medley of squash was given gusto by the freshest garden and hedgerow herbs and served with farm tomatoes and White Lake Fetish cheese. Sourdough croutons, a winter savory and squash ketchup, and a crunchy pumpkin and sunflower‑seed cracker transformed it into the most scrumptious of dishes.

A dreamy finale came courtesy of mugwort jelly layered between white‑chocolate cream, lemon geranium custard and Tahitian vanilla sorbet. It's a daring chef who uses such an unusual herb in a trifle, but it resulted in creamy contentment in a glass.

FOOD'S TIP

Those with a spirit of adventure should keep an eye out for the unique dining experiences and rural workshops coming soon to Birch Farm.

woolsery.com

Watergate Bay Hotel

Moroccan interiors, Mediterranean ingredients and Californian surf culture add international appeal to this iconic Cornish hotel, writes

Kathryn Lewis

Watergate Bay, Cornwall, TR8 4AA

WHAT TO ORDER?

WHAT'S THE DRAW?

Waking up to the best ocean views in Cornwall –possibly even the country. Many of the rooms at Watergate Bay Hotel overlook the popular surf spot after which it's named, yet the seascapes from its beach lofts are nothing short of incredible.

The seven spacious suites, located near the main hotel building and mere feet from the sand, make the most of their unrivalled location with vast windows that open so guests can feel the sea spray on their skin.

Each is individual in style yet harmoniously in tune with the general Moroccan‑surf‑shack‑chic vibe. Alongside gorgeous fabrics and statement furnishings, each suite is kitted out with contemporary mod cons such as a huge Apple TV – although unlikely to be watched while surfers in the swell provide rolling entertainment. A shared pantry stocked with complimentary filter coffee, speciality teas, fresh fruit, cakes and olives, as well as chilled wine, beer and spirits (paid for via an honesty box), mean loft guests don't have to venture far for drinks and snacks with which to toast the glorious sunsets.

WHO'S COOKING?

Executive chef Neil Haydock has overseen the hotel's three restaurants – Zacry's, The Living Space and The Beach Hut – for over a decade. Prior to his appointment, he worked at Michelin‑rated restaurants in London and South Africa, and was executive chef of Jamie Oliver's Fifteen Cornwall when it launched in 2005.

The most formal of the three dining experiences, Zacry's still bears the breezy beachside ambience that flows through the hotel, but wears it with a spritz more glamour.

Though rooted in Cornwall, its menu takes inspiration from coastal cuisines around the world. There's a strong showing of flavours from the Mediterranean and India, with a peppering of non‑native ingredients like papaya, shimeji mushrooms and sea agretti.

We started with octopus, its coiling tentacle lightly charred and presented on a deliciously rich and sweet morcilla‑laced tomato sauce. Tiny crisp squares of potato contributed crunch to contrast the meat's springy texture, while a drizzle of chlorophyll‑green persillade dressing added vibrancy.

A section of the menu is reserved for plant‑based dishes, from which we sampled the naturally sweet roasted parsnips with blue‑cheese crumb, tart apple matchsticks and tangy zhoug dressing.

For mains, a generous pork T‑bone steak was crowned with a giant shard of crackling and fresh herb‑forward fennel salsa, its side of 'nduja maccheroni a triple threat of creamy, cheesy and spicy.

Monkfish in a light Indian‑spiced batter was equally comforting. A tomato‑forward bhuna sauce and fresh papaya slaw provided beautifully light pairings for the meaty fish.

FOOD'S TIP

From the end of April, a new Emily Scott Getaway will give gourmets the opportunity to stay at the iconic hotel and dine at chef Emily Scott's restaurant overlooking the beach. The two‑night break starts from £278 per person (based on two sharing) and includes a six‑course seafood feast.

watergatebay.co.uk

Lo Rapitenc

From the first bite of crisp croquetas de jamón to the last slurp of raisin‑rich sherry, the authentic Spanish fare at this Frome indie encourages diners to slow down and savour the moment, discovers Selena Young 21 Cheap Street, Frome, Somerset, BA11 1BN

WHAT'S THE DRAW?

Lo Rapitenc owner Marc Brunet added a taste of Catalonia to Frome's indie restaurant collective when he opened this deli, store and eatery in 2021.

Coming from a long line of fishermen, Marc was raised in the foodie town of La Ràpita and its influence is honoured in his Somerset take on Spain's famously relaxed style of dining. Many of the dishes are inspired by those once served in his grandfather's waterfront tapas bar.

In keeping with the laid‑back nature of tapas, the delivery of Lo Rapitenc's numerous small plates is carefully paced so each can be savoured without distraction. And when one plate is cleared another appears as if by magic, the steady stream of dishes complemented by wine and sherry pairings.

The restaurant is accompanied by a shop and deli bar that's packed with cured meats, cheeses, specialities from Spain and artisan produce from nearby.

WHO'S COOKING?

Marc runs the deli and restaurant and oversees the kitchen and menus, while head chef Henry Osmond mans the pass.

Henry utilises the bounty of specialist Spanish and British ingredients at his fingertips, interweaving them with vegetables from Frome suppliers, meat from neighbouring butchers and fish that's been landed at Brixham.

WHAT TO ORDER?

A short but perfectly formed menu of hot and cold tapas dishes includes plenty of Spanish staples that diners will know (patatas bravas, padrón peppers and tortilla), but there are unexpected thrills to be enjoyed by those adventurous enough to order dishes they can't pronounce confidently.

The familiar crunch and ooze of croquetas de jamón serrano eased us into lunch and was followed by a flavour‑bomb of boquerones and pan rallado (anchovies pickled in olive oil and lemon juice, served in a halo of crunchy breadcrumbs).

Hot on its heels came cauliflower ajoblanco, a cold dish of cauliflower buried beneath a garlicky manchego sauce and sprinkled with flaked almonds and basil. A twist on the classic pan con tomate saw wedges of toasted sourdough slathered in sobrasada (like 'nduja but infinitely more luscious) and a drizzle of honey.

The big hit, however, was the arroz negro with gambas and saffron aioli. A favourite dish of Marc's from childhood, it comprised plump blistered prawns on a bed of black rice with finely sliced onion and garlic, finished with a silky saffron aioli. The sweet prawns paired beautifully with the salty and intensely earthy notes of the squid‑oil fried rice.

FOOD'S TIP

Live nearby? Don't miss the opportunity to get involved in one of Lo Rapitenc's regular sherry tasting nights (hosted by an expert), or to visit the team at their Spanish street food stall at The Frome Independent. lorapitencspanishfood.com

FOR EASTER LUNCH

Rally the troops for a seasonal feast this Easter. From rural Somerset finds to Cornish coastal gems, we've handpicked five of the South West's best pubs for a seriously good Easter lunch

1The Barrington Boar, Ilminster

Sunday roast is a ritual at this contemporary dining pub in rural Somerset.

While some chefs see Sunday service as the final hurdle before a day off, for The Barrington Boar's chef‑owner Alasdair Clifford it's a highlight of the working week. Just like the polished dishes he turns out Monday to Saturday, Sunday roasts are meticulously planned to showcase the best seasonal ingredients.

This Easter, Alasdair plans to feature lamb, wild garlic and rhubarb on the menu. Indulgent trimmings such as beef‑dripping roasties, cloud‑skimming yorkshires, glazed carrots and creamy cauliflower cheese are a year‑round tradition that will also feature.

thebarringtonboar.co.uk

2

The Three Horseshoes, Burton Bradstock

Sunday lunchers will be dizzy with the choice of dishes on offer at The Three Horseshoes this Easter. A lengthy list of slow roasted, ethically reared meats – including Dorset lamb, Jurassic Coast pork, local chicken and Fossil Farm beef sirloin – is guaranteed to make any meat lover swoon.

A tempting pumpkin and cranberry nut roast caters to veggie and vegan visitors, and there's also the option of ditching the roast altogether in favour of the à la carte menu. Fish fans may be swayed by the likes of pan‑fried hake with minted green beans and peas, new potatoes and beurre blanc sauce, or the Indonesian seafood curry swimming with sea bream, tiger prawns and clams.

threehorseshoesburtonbradstock.co.uk

3

The Queen's Arms, near Sherborne

Gather the gang for an extended Easter celebration at this family‑run pub with rooms. Located in rolling countryside on the Dorset/Somerset border, it's perfectly positioned for a long morning walk to rouse the appetite for Sunday lunch (necessary if you've indulged in a sumptuous supper in the restaurant the night before).

Slow‑roasted leg of lamb will be the star of the Easter menu this year, and served with mint salsa verde, duck‑fat potatoes, honey‑roasted root veg, cauliflower cheese and locally grown spring greens. Rounding off a long and lazy lunch with dessert is non‑negotiable – choose from the likes of pistachio cake with white chocolate and mascarpone ganache and raspberry sorbet, and cinnamon parfait with poached pear, blackberries and honeycomb.

thequeensarms.com

4 Emily Scott Food, Newquay

Keen foodies will know this contemporary seafood restaurant overlooking Watergate Bay is not a pub. However, on Sundays it goes by its alter ego: Mimi's Sunday Table. Named after chef founder Emily Scott (Mimi to close friends and family), the Sunday service is less tasting‑menu‑for‑two and more gathering friends and family round the table to share good food, wine and conversation.

The rustic three‑course line‑up is inspired by Emily's time cooking in France, so don't expect a traditional British Sunday lunch. Dishes such as mussels with leeks, cider and clotted cream, and Cornish duck with white beans, garlic and rosemary are served family style, with everyone encouraged to dig in and share. A vegetarian menu is available on request.

emilyscottfood.com

5 The Cornish Arms, Tavistock

Recently achieving number 12 in the Estrella Top 50 Gastropubs awards, The Cornish Arms has a stellar reputation for elevated pub dining. Sunday lunch is particularly popular, thanks to an irresistibly indulgent bill including the likes of roast saddleback pork with maple‑smoked belly, apple sauce and crackling.

Don't let the enticing mains encourage you to skip starters; seasonal small plates such as pheasant scotch egg with blue cheese and beer‑pickled onion, and raviolo of game ragu with aged parmesan, roasted shallot purée, bone marrow and parsley sauce are not to be missed.

thecornisharmstavistock.co.uk

The Rising Sun at Knapp, Somerset

Ian Webber of The Farmers Arms, Chris Cleghorn of The Olive Tree, Adam Handling of Ugly Butterfly and Michael Caines of Lympstone Manor

Nigel Bloxham of Crab House Cafe and Mark Hix of The Oyster & Fish House, Dorset

The Harbour Beach Club, Devon

Elly Wentworth of The Angel ‑ Taste of Devon

WEEKEND COOKING

Recipes from the South West's leading chefs and producers

Pan‑roasted cod with gnocchi, samphire, baby gem, and anchovy beurre noisette

Recipe by Ollie Wyatt, head chef at The Alverton in Truro

Serves 2

Vegetable oil

Cod loins 2, 160g each, skinned and seasoned with

salt and pepper

Banana shallot 2, peeled and finely diced

Gnocchi 230g

Samphire 120g

Baby gem leaves 2, torn

For the anchovy beurre noisette:

Butter 100g

Anchovies 2‑4, depending on preference

Parsley 4 tsp, chopped

Lemon 1, juice

Salt and white pepper

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C / gas 4. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil.

2 Put an oven‑proof frying pan over a medium heat and add a splash of vegetable oil. Place the cod in the pan skin‑side down and fry for 2 minutes. Transfer to the oven and cook for a further 3 minutes until the fish is opaque. Once the fish is cooked, remove it from the oven and leave to rest in a warm place.

3 While the fish is cooking, put the gnocchi in the pan of boiling water. Once the gnocchi float to the top, take the pan off the heat and drain.

4 Put the frying pan used for the cod back on the heat. Add the shallots and gnocchi and sauté for 1 minute, then add the samphire and baby gem leaves.

5 For the anchovy beurre noisette: put a pan over a medium‑high heat. Add the butter and cook until it's a nutty brown colour, then stir in the anchovies and lemon juice.

6 To serve: divide the gnocchi into two pasta bowls, pour the beurre noisette over the gnocchi and place a piece of cod on top.

thealverton.co.uk

‘I sometimes swap the gnocchi for Cornish potatoes or tagliatelle, and replace the cod with hake or pollock’ says Ollie

THE DRINKS CURATOR

Drinks pro Susy Atkins reveals her seasonal pick of the pack

Casual

cafe recipes to make at home

HERON FARM TRADITIONAL METHOD BRUT 2018

Heron Farm, close to Honiton in east Devon, not only draws visitors for its family‑friendly cafe and restaurant but also for tastings of its fine fizz.

Made from estate‑grown grapes, mainly the Seyval Blanc variety, Heron Farm's brut is bottle aged in the Champagne method. Expect mouth‑watering lime and crisp green‑apple notes in a dry, hugely refreshing style that heralds spring. Hurrah!

£28

heron-farm.co.uk

out now

Easy‑to‑make dishes from some of the UK’s best cafes

£20. Order now at

indycoffee.guide

Hot cross buns

Recipe by the team at Matthews Cotswold Flour near Chipping Norton

Makes 12

Cotswold Churchill strong white flour 375g, plus 75g for piping

Salt 9g

Fresh yeast 25g

Butter 60g, softened

Whole milk 160ml

Mixed spice 1 tbsp

Mixed dried fruit 80g, soaked in orange juice for 2 hours

Mixed peel 25g

Apricot jam 1 tbsp

1 Using a stand mixer on a medium speed, combine the flour, salt, yeast, butter, milk and mixed spice until smooth.

2 Remove the mixed fruit from the orange juice and give it a good squeeze to remove any excess liquid before adding it to the dough along with the mixed peel. Mix for 5 minutes at a medium speed then rest the dough for 5 minutes.

3 Split the dough into 12 x 50g balls and place on a large baking tray lined with parchment, making sure there is a good amount of space between each ball. Cover with clingfilm and leave the dough to prove for at least 1½ hours at room temperature.

4 While the dough is proving, make a paste by mixing 75g of flour with 5 tbsp of cold water until smooth. Preheat the oven to 200°C / gas 6.

5 Once proved, pipe a cross on each ball using the flour and water mixture. Place in the oven and bake for 20‑25 minutes until golden brown.

6 While the buns are baking, heat the jam with a little water. When the buns are cooked, remove the buns from the oven and brush with the warm apricot jam. Leave to cool.

7 Serve toasted with lashings of salted butter.

cotswoldflour.com

Wild garlic

Scott Paton, head chef of Àclèaf in Plymouth, reveals his seasonal hero ingredient and shares a few tips on how to prepare it at home

There's so much more to wild garlic than simply making pesto. The allium grows abundantly across the South West and can be found both in woodlands, where it carpets the ground in early spring, and in green city spaces.

It's a brilliant entry-level forager's find, but you're missing a trick if your whole harvest is destined to share a blender with pine nuts and parmesan.

SOURCE A series of unseasonably warm winters has nudged the wild garlic season forward into February (traditionally mid‑March was the time to start picking). From the last week of the month, you should find it growing in shady damp areas of woodland and under tree cover.

PREP Different parts of the wild‑garlic plant can be eaten at different stages of its life cycle. Pick the leaves when they first appear, then the flowers and finally, once the flowers have wilted, the seed capers. Aim to find plants away from paths and wash thoroughly in cold (ideally, iced) water.

SERVE A simple way to utilise the plant's distinctive flavour is to create wild‑garlic oil.

To make it, pick the leaves down to their stalks and blanch the leaves in boiling water for ten seconds before transferring to iced water. Gently wring the leaves to remove as much water as possible and then blitz in a blender with good quality olive oil for several minutes until smooth. Then pass the liquid through a sieve, lined with very fine muslin, into a bottle.

The fragrant and vibrant oil can be drizzled over soups such as leek and potato or stirred into shop‑bought mayonnaise to elevate sandwiches. It can also be frozen in an ice cube tray so you can add a pop of flavour to dishes throughout the year.

Wild garlic naturally complements many other early spring ingredients so it's a joy to work with at Àclèaf. This year I'm using the stalks in a bordelaise sauce, which accompanies Highland wagyu, Roscoff onion and bay velouté.

acleaf.co.uk

Scott's hero ingredients

Start your culinary journey with us �

The Ashburton Chefs Academy is one of the UK’s leading private culinary schools and has trained hundreds of aspiring chefs to cook with skill, creativity and passion.

Chefs like Jane Dunn, who graduated from our fulltime, intensive Diploma in Culinary Arts programme before launching her career in food. Today she

has over 1.5 million followers on social media, has released two best selling ‘Jane’s Patisserie’ cook books and is now sharing her love for baking to millions on television.

Whether you want to become an accomplished chef, start a food business or launch a career in food, your journey starts in Ashburton.

Jane Dunn

Jane’s Patisserie

Best Selling Author, Blogger & TV Chef

Oysters

PRISING OPEN THE MYTHS

WHAT'S THE BEST WAY TO EAT AN OYSTER?

I change my mind on this all the time but currently my favourite way is with a dash of hot sauce and a squirt of lemon or lime juice. Then, instead of just swallowing them whole, chew three or four times to get all the flavour.

ARE OYSTERS ALIVE WHEN YOU EAT THEM?

They're alive until you open them, then they're gone. That's why you should never eat an oyster if the shell is already open.

WHAT'S THE SECRET TO EATING AN OYSTER WITH FINESSE?

Don't go for an oyster that's too big, and tip your head back so you don't drip it down your front. If the oysters are very fresh – like ours, which are farmed on the beach by the restaurant – they'll often have a fair bit of water in them, so you might want to tip a little of that away first.

WHY ARE OYSTERS A LUXURY ITEM WHEN THEY WERE ONCE THE FOOD OF THE WORKING CLASS?

Native oysters used to be very prolific so they were cheap, but in the 20th century overfishing and disease almost wiped them out. Most oyster farmers in the UK now grow Pacific oysters, which are carefully farmed to avoid the spread of this population into the wild, so are now expensive and sought after.

PERFECT OYSTER/DRINK PAIRING?

I like a dry white like a Picpoul or a Muscadet, or even a dry Manzanilla sherry. Stout is the traditional accompaniment and was originally brewed to wash down putrid oysters so the poor could get the benefit of their protein.

DO OYSTERS TASTE OF THEIR TERROIR?

Absolutely. They filter up to 18 litres of water an hour and the flavour of that water affects the flavour of the oyster. The water also changes throughout the year depending on the weather: more rainwater reduces the salinity of the sea which makes oysters sweeter.

WHAT'S THE LIKELIHOOD OF FINDING A PEARL?

Very unlikely: Pacific oysters are different from the ones farmed to make pearls, although it does happen – I've found three or four in my time.

ARE OYSTERS REALLY AN APHRODISIAC?

They're nature's Viagra! Some say it's because of the zinc [important for reproductive health], but maybe they're just seen as romantic.

AND THE RULE ABOUT ONLY EATING OYSTERS IN MONTHS WITH AN 'R' IN THEM?

They used to say you shouldn't eat oysters in the summer months but that was because that was when native oysters were spawning and fattening up. Now we seed them all year round so that isn't an issue.

crabhousecafe.co.uk

Jo Rees gets the low-down on the celebrated bivalves from Dorset's own pearly king, Nigel Bloxham of Crab House Cafe in Wyke Regis

Want to incorporate more wild food into your cooking?

Neal Chainey of Found & Fine in Dorchester shares tips on how to enhance your dishes with foraged ingredients

EASY-PEASY CANAPÉS

Wood sorrel is a beautifully fresh plant found throughout the year on the floors of pine forests. For a simple canapé idea, pair it with Portland crab and apple salad and serve in homemade pastry cups. The leaves, flowers and (fresh) stems are all edible.

ELF-ISH TOAST

Vibrant scarlet elf cups (pictured top left) can be found on decaying sticks and in damp woodland spots. These ruby‑red gems are utterly delicious – try pan frying them in garlic butter and chives, then serve on a thick slice of toasted sourdough.

WILD SALADS

Take a caprese salad next level with a drizzle of homemade wild‑garlic oil. It's super easy to rustle up: blend a couple of handfuls of fresh wild‑garlic leaves (washed, blanched and cooled) with 400ml of vegetable oil. It's a fab base for salad dressings.

In the Found & Fine kitchen, we prefer to use local ingredients when possible. For our caprese salad we choose Buffalicious mozzarella from Somerset and tomatoes from Dorset's The Edible Acre. We garnish it with last season's preserved wild‑garlic capers – the capers can be picked as soon as the petals begin to drop. Brine them for a week in salted water (50:50), before pickling in equal parts water, vinegar and sugar ready for next year's feasting.

foundnfine.co.uk

Neal and Catriona Chainey run Found & Fine, a Dorchester-based private catering company which specialises in bringing a touch of the wild to private feasting events.

THE ACORN INN

The Acorn Inn is a beautiful 16th century public house situated in the charming village of Evershot.Be welcomed by our warm & friendly team to stay in one of our 10 individually decorated bedrooms. Join us for lunch, dinner & drinks in our award winning restaurant or bar where we serve fresh local produce, signature gins, real cask ales & an extensive wine list.

5

dishes TO TRY BEFORE YOU DIE

Risotto with white truffle at Enoteca Pinchiorri

One of the best meals I've ever had was at Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence. I loved how chef Annie Féolde blended the three‑star style of cooking with the simplicity of Italian cuisine.

The experience was outstanding: not just the elegance of Annie's cooking but also the wine pairings, which were absolutely brilliant. For me, food without wine is only half the story and at Enoteca Pinchiorri they did the whole ensemble with style. It's hard to choose a single standout dish but the risotto with Italian white truffle was amazing.

Bouillabaisse in Marseille

Another dish to try before you die is a bouillabaisse in the South of France. Provence has an incredible tradition of creating really good bouillabaisse. While there are many different versions to be found, if you can experience a good one on the coast it's a must.

Gordon Ramsay's tarte tatin

It's tough to choose a dessert, but my favourite –other than apple crumble – is a good tarte tatin with a fantastic vanilla ice cream. It's not a recipe chefs make in restaurants much anymore, but one of the best I've ever had was at my friend Gordon Ramsay's restaurant Aubergine in London.

Tasting menu at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons

A visit to Raymond Blanc's Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons in Oxfordshire should be on everyone's bucket list. I remember my first experience there as a young chef: I had the tartare salmon with cucumber and caviar, the charlotte of aubergine with lamb, and the café crème soufflé.

In many ways there wouldn't be a Lympstone Manor without it because it's what inspired me to cook at that level.

Fried snapper with chilli

In total contrast, my final dish ties into my love of Thai food. I had this in a restaurant outside Brisbane where the cooking is, of course, very Asian, given its location. In the past I didn't cope well with the heat of chilli but that fish – with its salt, lime and chilli – was delicious and extremely memorable.

lympstonemanor.co.uk

Michael Caines, chef patron of Lympstone Manor in Devon, reveals his gourmet must-dos

Bouillabaisse Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons

Ultimate Weekend Tickets to Porthleven Food Festival

Porthleven Food Festival is a firm favourite on the culinary calendar thanks to its all-star Chefs' Theatre line-up, delicious street food, family-friendly activities, live music and entertainment.

The annual event takes place in early spring this year (April 21-23) and, when the first chef takes to the stage on the Friday, it will signal the start of the South West's thriving festival season.

For three days, Porthleven Harbour turns into a foodie wonderland as the picturesque site brims with stalls selling artisan food and drink, and street-food vans serving delicious dishes.

Keen cooks can look forward to watching a plethora of demos presented by Trencherman's Guide chef Jude Kereama in the Chefs' Theatre. The line-up of cooking talent includes Adam Handling of Ugly Butterfly at Carbis Bay, Elly Wentworth of The Angel – Taste of Devon in Dartmouth and James Knappett of Kitchen Table in London.

New to the festival for 2023 are three-course Feast Nights in the Net Loft. Hosted by festival chef-patron Jude, Rupert Cooper of Philleigh Way Cookery School and guest chefs, each night promises an exciting menu of the finest seasonal and local ingredients.

Entry to Porthleven Food Festival is free but there are ticketed events after dark, including the Evening Sessions (featuring live music and street food) and the new Feast Nights. Tickets to the feasts are limited, so make sure to secure your spot before they sell out.

THE PRIZE Two Ultimate Weekend Tickets, including access to Evening Sessions, the Sunday Feast Night at the Net Loft and guaranteed seating in the Chefs' Theatre.

THE QUESTION Which Porthleven restaurateur is the festival's chef patron?

To enter, visit food‑mag.co.uk/win

See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is April 30, 2023.

porthlevenfoodfestival.com

a Morso Grill Forno II

Scandinavians know a thing or two about embracing the great outdoors, whatever the weather, which is why this Danishengineered cast iron oven was designed for year-round alfresco feasting.

It may look like a pizza oven, but this clever bit of kit is no one-trick pony. Fuelled by wood and featuring a removable grill, it can be used to bake, roast, grill and smoke all manner of ingredients – from robust cuts of meat for winter suppers to fresh seafood for summer socials. It can also be used as a firepit to keep guests warm when the temperature drops but the party's still going strong.

The current trend for cooking over flame shows no sign of slowing, and chefs across the region are adding wood-fired grills to their kitchen set-up. The Morso Grill Forno II enables budding fire cooks to experiment with different techniques at home, adding additional layers of flavour to fresh ingredients via smoke and flame.

A core piece in Rangemoors' collection of Morso outdoor stoves, the Grill Forno II is one of its most popular thanks to its sleek design and versatility. Its compact size means it can be moved and stored away when not in use.

Want to see one in action before you buy? Visit a Rangemoors showroom in Exeter or Winkleigh, Devon. And, if you enter our competition, you might be the lucky winner of a Morso Grill Forno II of your own this spring.

THE PRIZE A Morso Grill Forno II, worth £764.

THE QUESTION In which country was the Morso Grill Forno II designed?

To enter, visit food‑mag.co.uk/win

See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is April 30, 2023.

rangemoors.co.uk

English Riviera Food and Music Festival tickets

The South West is home to some of the UK's most iconic festivals and the new family-friendly English Riviera Food and Music Festival looks set to be up there with the best.

Over the late May bank holiday weekend (May 26-29), Torre Abbey Meadows in Torquay will host an eclectic line-up of music acts and showcase the culinary skills of some of the UK's top chefs. Topping the live music bill are UB40, Razorlight, Scouting For Girls, The Feeling, Rebecca Ferguson, Fleur East, Ben Haenow and The Overtones, with more acts to be announced.

Jude Kereama of Kota in Porthleven and James Tanner of Barbican Kitchen in Plymouth will be representing the South West on the chefs' stage. They'll be joined by a line-up that includes Lesley Waters, Paul Rankin, Nick Nairn, Theo Randall and Ed Baines, who'll be rustling up some of their favourite dishes and sharing kitchen tips and tricks. Festivalgoers with burning culinary questions will get the chance to quiz them during the Q&A sessions.

When not watching the action on stage, visitors can stroll around the festival site to sample delicious street food from a range of creative vendors and pick up quality produce in the daily market village. There'll also be plenty of interactive fun and games for little ones to get stuck into.

Weekend and day tickets are available, priced from £46.50 for adults and £12.50 for children (aged 5-16). Family tickets are also on sale and provide entry for two adults and two children, starting from £109.50.

THE PRIZE Two sets of family weekend tickets. Each ticket includes entry for two adults and two children on all four days of the event.

THE QUESTION In which Devon seaside town will the festival take place?

To enter, visit food‑mag.co.uk/win

See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is April 30, 2023.

rivierafoodmusicfest.co.uk

DAN BROWN

The head chef of The Cotley Inn in Somerset reveals the song that gets the kitchen team going on a Sunday morning and a recent restaurant experience that wowed him

WHICH KITCHEN ITEM COULDN'T YOU LIVE WITHOUT?

My team – I couldn't do the job without them. My bespoke set of knives is also pretty important; for my 30th birthday earlier this year a friend made me a knife, which was really special.

WHAT DO YOU LISTEN TO IN THE KITCHEN?

From rap and hip hop to 80s ballads, there's nothing we won't listen to. It's an eclectic mix but, without fail, Sunday Morning by Maroon 5 will be blasting as we set up for service on a Sunday.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT TO DATE?

Achieving a string of awards and accolades at The Cotley Inn over the past year, including being named Pub of the Year by Visit England.

An early career highlight was cooking with my former head chef Mat Follas (of The Wild Garlic in Beaminster) and Russell Brown (of Sienna in Dorset) at a private charity dinner hosted by thecriticalcouple. I was only 18 and it was a money's-noobject event, attended by highly respected chefs like Alyn Williams and James Knappett.

YOUR MOST-READ RECIPE BOOK?

My most battered book from over ten years of use is Sex & Drugs & Sausage Rolls by Graham Garrett. It's the one I reach for when I need inspiration and it continues to influence a lot of my dishes.

FAVOURITE PLACE TO EAT OUT?

I try not to go back to the same place twice because there are so many restaurants I want to visit.

I recently enjoyed a trip to One Fish Street in St Ives, Cornwall. The tasting menu featured amazingly fresh fish and I liked the drinks pairings, which branched out from wine to explore cocktails. It was one of those restaurant experiences where you say ‘wow’ as you leave.

BEST STAYCATION SPOT?

Anywhere in Somerset, Devon or Cornwall. The food in the South West is incredible and the produce unbeatable. Outside the UK, I love Barcelona for its constantly changing food scene.

GUILTY FOOD PLEASURE?

Portuguese custard tarts. I went to Portugal last year and ate a minimum of six a day. I wouldn't dare make them myself in case I ruined the high opinion I hold of them.

DESERT ISLAND MEAL?

Thai red curry with sticky rice – and a few bao buns on the side for good measure. To drink, it would be an Amaretto Sour.

cotleyinnwambrook.co.uk

Range Cooking The home of

Whether you’re cooking a sumptuous roast for the family or creating a special culinary treat for friends, we have the perfect cooker for you. Cookers that will bring out the very best in your cooking and will add a delicious focal point to any home. For expert advice and to explore one of largest collections of appliances in the South West, visit Rangemoors.

Main image: Lacanche Citeaux.