Food Magazine November / December 2022

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Issue 193 November/December 2022 Read more at food-mag.co.uk FREE Take me home 5 OF THE BEST Ethical Christmas turkeys WIN The ultimate Trencherman's experience STAYCATION GUIDE Where to eat, shop and stay in Bridport and West Bay Ditch tradition this Christmas selfish 'Tis the season to be

Christmas at the Manor

CHRISTMAS AT LYMPSTONE MANOR

suites and
and
11-acre
and the
and
New
packages or join us for
01395 20 20 40 WWW.LYMPSTONEMANOR.CO.UK COURTLANDS LANE, EXMOUTH EX8 3NZ Discover our House Membership
Discover Lympstone Manor, a 5-star hotel featuring 27 luxurious rooms,
shepherd huts. World-renowned Michelin starred cuisine from Michael Caines, 28-acres of grounds
gardens,
vineyard
newly opened heated outdoor pool, pool house, tennis courts
croquet lawn. From Christmas day dining, boxing day lunch, to our three night Christmas and
Year
some festive fun at our annual Christmas with Caines on the 7th December.

THANKS

Thanks to our clients for supporting the magazine that supports the South West's food and hospitality industry.

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Christmas offers the chance to spend time with friends and family, and for many of us it's also a much needed break from the busy day‑to‑day.

In reality, however, cooking for a crowd, scheduling a packed timetable of far‑flung relatives and entertaining neighbours can be even more stressful than going to work. So, if you're dreading this year's festive food shop, the family debates and the never ending dishwasher cycles, we have a rebellious solution: the selfish Christmas.

From page 8, we've handpicked a series of alternative places to spend Christmas Day. From an art deco hotel on a tidal island off the Devon coast to a futuristic treehouse in the Dorset forest, each promises a truly peaceful escape from tradition.

For those who love nothing more than cramming as many family members as possible around the table, we've also got seasonal recipes to please your throng of

merrymakers, such as a fabulously festive wreath dessert from Trewithen Dairy (page 34). And don't miss Morrish & Banham's Christmas lunch wine pairings (page 49).

Serious gourmets should head straight to food‑mag.co.uk to enter our epic competition which celebrates the 30th edition of the Trencherman's Guide (page 25). The incredible prize includes an indulgent lunch at Lympstone Manor and a bundle of goodies from Trencherman's partners Salcombe Distilling Co, Sharp's Brewery, Frobishers, Noble Isle, and Hallgarten & Novum Wines.

Wishing you a lovely Christmas –however you choose to spend it.

Kathryn Lewis

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'Tis the season to be selfish, page 8

Season’s Greetings from all at

November & December 6 THE HIT LIST Latest foodie news and events. 8 'TIS THE SEASON TO BE SELFISH Ditch tradition and treat yourself to an alternative festive escape. 16 STAYCATION GUIDE Where to eat, drink, stay and shop in Bridport and West Bay. 22 TRENCHERMAN'S TURNS 30 Michael Caines on the success of the South West's longstanding dining guide. 26 REVIEWS Eating out across the region. 34 WEEKEND COOKING Seasonal recipes from leading chefs, cookery tutors and producers. 52 WIN Three foodie getaways and a case of Camel Valley Pilsner are up for grabs. 16 22 34 8 5 / ISSUE 193
1 2 3 4 7 6 / ISSUE 193

The Hit List

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CORNISH CHRISTMAS JOY

Padstow Christmas Festival takes place in the heart of the Cornish town from December 1‑4 and will welcome some of the UK's leading chefs such as Nathan Outlaw, Paul Ainsworth and Rick Stein.

Headline sponsor Sharp's Brewery has a host of activities planned for the long weekend, including running its illuminating Silent Bistro experience. In addition, Sharp's beer sommelier Ed Hughes (pictured) will perform a demo at the Chef's Theatre on the Saturday and the team will sell Christmas gifts from the Sharp's Brewery stand. Day tickets cost £7.

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FIRESIDE FESTIVE FEASTING

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CHELTENHAM SUPPER CLUB

The Cotswolds' roaming restaurant The Scenic Supper will settle in Cheltenham this winter for an eight‑week residency at Ritual Coffee Roasters.

From November 8 to December 31 (Wednesdays to Saturdays), head chef Samuel Idoine will craft hyper‑seasonal evening menus in the contemporary industrial space. Booking is recommended and requires a £15 deposit per person.

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BRIOCHE LIKE A BOSS

Join bread guru Andy Tyrrell at Riverford Field Kitchen in Devon on November 22 for a baking workshop with a Christmas twist. Budding bakers attending the full‑day course will learn how to make delicious goodies such as orange and cranberry brioche, traditional stollen and festive focaccia. Tickets cost £150 and include lunch cooked by Riverford Field Kitchen chefs.

3 | CHRISTMAS WINE TASTING

Morrish & Banham's duo of Dorset bottle shops will host their annual Christmas Wine Tastings on November 24 (Duke's auction house in Dorchester) and 25 (Electric Palace in Bridport).

The walk‑around tastings will feature over 100 wines and provide the perfect opportunity to pick your Christmas lunch pairings. Tickets cost £10.

Get the gang together for a festive feast cooked over fire at High Grange in east Devon. From December 8‑10, Luke and Sara Vandore‑Mackay will host a series of sociable suppers at their woodland kitchen. The events start with cocktails and nibbles by an open fire, before guests head into the rustic shippen to indulge in a five‑course feast cooked by Luke. Tickets cost £85.

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COCKTAILS, CURRY AND CAROLS

The team at Roth Bar & Grill in Bruton are shaking up the classic carol concert this year by throwing Cocktails, Curry and Carols parties.

The events, which take place on December 16 and 17, will kick off with arrival drinks before guests dive into a sharing‑style Indian feast. The real fun starts when house pianist Huw starts cracking out the Christmas classics – and yes, everyone is expected to join in. Tickets cost £40.

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MAKE THE JOURNEY

Gourmets take note: Cheltenham has a new fine‑dining destination. Restaurant Journey on Bath Road opened its doors at the end of October and is delivering an immersive tasting‑menu experience.

Head chef and owner Jeff Lewis blends his experience at Michelin‑rated restaurants (such as Ynyshir in Wales and The Fat Duck in Bray) with his travels across Asia to create exciting 12‑course menus.

7 / THE HIT LIST
The latest foodie news and events for your calendar

'Tis the season to be selfish

Everyone should indulge in a selfish Christmas at least once – one where you bunk off the big family dinner, hang up the oven gloves and spend the holiday doing something that brings you joy. Tempted to ditch tradition this year? Explore these alternative festive escapes in the South West

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Mallinson's Woodland Retreat Dorset

Book one of the spectacular treehouses at this rural Dorset retreat and you could spend Christmas Day walking in the forest, soaking in an outdoor hot tub and devouring homemade pizza straight from the wood‑fired oven.

The three treehouses (Dazzle, Pinwheel and The Woodman's) were handbuilt by founder Guy Mallinson and his team of woodcraftsmen, and have featured on Grand Designs and George Clarke's Amazing Spaces. Each is designed to blend into its natural setting while also creating a sumptuous space where guests can indulge in contemporary comfort.

The distinctive camouflage that decorates Dazzle (pictured above) was inspired by the patterns used to disguise ships during the first world war. Inside, the theme continues with a gangplank walkway, rooftop funnels, yacht‑deck flooring and a central glass spine which allows light to spill in. If the treehouses are beyond your budget, there are also yurts, shepherd's huts and bell tents tucked away in the same magical woodland.

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Burgh Island Hotel Devon

If the rollercoaster ride that is the 2020s has you craving a retreat into the past, spending Christmas at an art deco hotel on a tidal island off the south Devon coast might be just the tonic.

Originally built in 1929 and more recently restored to reflect its 1930s heyday, Burgh Island Hotel is the epitome of glamour and hospitality. Depending on the tides, you'll be picked up from the mainland by sea tractor and escorted across the causeway to the grand building nestled in the north side of the island. Guests start their experience in the stunning glass‑domed bar with a glass of Champagne before being shown to their suites.

The most coveted place to stay at Burgh is Agatha's Beach House, a self‑contained lodge built into the cliff under the main building, which was originally commissioned as a writing retreat for Agatha Christie (who was so inspired by the setting that she set two novels on Devon islands). With a wood burner, king‑size bed and sweeping sea views, it's the ultimate romantic retreat. Guests spending Christmas on the island (the three‑night stay commences on December 24) are invited to the hotel's famous Boxing Day Ball, where attendees don flapper dresses and black tie for an evening of fine food, drinks and high jinks.

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Bedruthan Hotel & Spa Cornwall

For many, the Christmas break is an opportunity to relax and unwind after a hectic year of work. If you're looking to fully unfurl from 12 months hunched over a desk, then spending four days at a Nordic‑inspired spa by the coast is possibly the best way to do it.

It's said that a bracing beach walk is the best way to blow away the cobwebs, but we'd argue that spending an afternoon in Bedruthan's back‑to‑nature spa is even more effective. There are seven stages to its Sensory Garden Spa experience, and they range from the comfort of the sauna to the spine‑tingling thrill of being drenched in ice‑cold water. Plunging between hot and cold while surrounded by fragrant herbs and rejuvenating sea air is guaranteed to revive the senses.

The Grown‑Up Christmas Break (available as a three‑ or four‑night stay) includes full use of the other spa facilities as well as the Sensory Garden Spa experience. Festive guests will be well fed too: the package includes a three‑course wine‑matched dinner on Christmas Eve, the full works on Christmas Day (including a clementine‑fizz breakfast) and a three‑course farewell supper on Boxing Day.

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Aller Dorset

Those who fantasise about going off‑grid for Christmas – but aren't cut out for truly roughing it – will find all the mod cons and luxury touches they require at this duo of decked‑out shepherd's huts in rural Dorset. When Ant and Cat Earp decided to add self‑contained accommodation to their family farm, they wanted to create something a bit different to the standard rustic‑chic shepherd's hut offering. Clear your mind of cramped bunting‑adorned conversions: Links and Littledown (named after the fields they overlook) are spacious, light‑filled lodgings dressed in gorgeous furnishings and kitted out with everything you need for a comfortable stay.

Toast Christmas morning with a glass of local Langham sparkling wine (included in the welcome hamper) and an exhilarating dip in the spring‑fed lake. Then, while lunch is cooking, revive fingers and toes in the steamy alfresco tub.

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The Slaughters Country Inn Gloucestershire

Crackling logs in the fireplace, blackened‑beam ceilings and cosy leather armchairs: Christmas at this Cotswolds inn is the stuff of festive fairy tales. So, if you're craving the traditional Christmas experience – but without the in‑laws, washing up or pressure to entertain – let the team at The Slaughters Country Inn take the reins.

The three‑night retreat kicks off on Christmas Eve when guests will be welcomed with warm mince pies and steaming mugs of mulled wine by the fire before a glam three‑course dinner with live music.

Lunch the following day is an elevated affair, with a Prosecco reception followed by five fabulous courses crafted from local seasonal ingredients.

Boxing Day is celebrated with another three‑course feast.

Guests will find some of the Cotswolds' best walks on their doorstep, so afternoons can be spent wandering through the countryside, making room for the next decadent dining experience.

13 / 'TIS THE SEASON TO BE SELFISH
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Swanaford Estate Devon

If you usually spend more time selecting the Christmas Day wine pairings than the food you'll be eating, you'll love the idea of spending the festive break on a vineyard. Swanaford Estate near Dartmoor has three beautifully restored cottages hidden within its 50‑acre site, and those staying in Barnfield Cottage (available this Christmas) will enjoy views over the vines.

The 17th‑century thatched cottage has two lovely country‑style bedrooms and a spacious kitchen in which to cook Christmas lunch, should you wish. Whether you stick with turkey or ditch tradition, a bottle of Swanaford's Classic Cuvée is the only way to kick off the celebrations.

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Staycation guide

Bridport and West Bay

The lively market town and its neighbouring harbour are found on one of Britain's best stretches of coastline. Together they offer the best of both worlds for staycationers seeking coast and culture in Dorset

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Where to stay

It's a flat 30‑minute stroll from Bridport to West Bay (there's a bus if you're not up for the walk) so, wherever you decide to base yourself, it's easy to flit between the two. There aren't a huge number of overnight options in the immediate area but Bridport's The Bridge House is in the heart of town and perfect if you want everything on your doorstep.

The grade II‑listed Georgian townhouse has ten bedrooms which have been dressed with beautiful fabrics and treasures from local antique dealers. From early spring until late summer, its Potting Shed Kitchen & Bar (in the garden) hosts pop‑up dinners from Wednesdays to Fridays, as well as brunch at the weekend.

A ten‑minute drive along the Jurassic Coast from West Bay is The Seaside Boarding House in Burton Bradstock. Each of the hotel's nine bedrooms is within sight and sound of the sea, making it a fabulous find for those who yearn to fall asleep to the rhythmic crashing of waves on the shore. There are no televisions in the rooms, so you can connect with nature while disconnecting from the outside world.

Motor ten minutes in the other direction from West Bay and you'll reach Seatown and its beachside pub Anchor Inn. Serving patrons for over 160 years, it's a popular stop on the South West Coast Path where you can pause to sink a local real ale and dine on the deck. It also houses three boutique bedrooms above the bar which have been modernised to reflect the maritime setting.

Further away, but worth the journey for serious eats, is The Ollerod in Beaminster. The 14th‑century restaurant with rooms has long held a reputation for top‑drawer food, and new executive chef David Vill continues that legacy. Book one of the nine gorgeous guestrooms and finish a day of exploration with a cocktail in the bar and a stirring supper in the conservatory dining room.

The Seaside Boarding House
The Ollerod 17 / STAYCATION GUIDE
Anchor Inn

Where to eat

Those who need a morning caffeine hit before they can function should make Soulshine their primary stop in Bridport. On first impression the cafe, restaurant and deli appears to be tiny, but wander through the retail space and you'll find a roomy dining area and garden in which to savour an own‑roasted coffee. It's worth extending your visit to sample the breakfast menu of wholesome homemade dishes like shakshuka served with house sourdough dripping in butter. The sociable vibe continues after dark when tables are crammed with small plates of local produce such as cured trout with fermented gooseberries, slow‑cooked lamb with red wine and white beans, and split‑pea hummus with seeds and pickles.

If you want to start your Dorset adventure by the beach, Rise in West Bay is another all‑day destination. On crisp, clear winter days, wrap up warm and sit on the terrace to tuck into antipodean brunch dishes such as the Aussie breakfast (smashed avo, lime, coriander, salsa macha, poached eggs and toast) with views of the harbour.

Also in West Bay and offering waterside dining (this time by its pebble beach) is Watch House Cafe. The lunch menu includes the kind of nostalgic seaside fare – crab sandwiches, steamed mussels, fish and chips – that's hard to refuse when there's a briny breeze blowing. However, it also deals in wood‑fired pizzas with alluring toppings such as king prawns, peppers, sweet chilli sauce and coriander. If a post‑feed hike is needed to make room for dinner, follow the South West Coast Path over the cliffs to Burton Bradstock where you'll find sister venue Hive Beach Cafe (perfect for a turning‑point pit‑stop).

For evening eats with a side of theatre, alight at West Bay's Station Road to dine in a reclaimed first world war railway carriage. The Station Kitchen doesn't leave its platform, yet stepping aboard this tiny restaurant is rather like taking a trip back in time. The fabulously eclectic decor, which blends 1930s glamour with splashes of neon and statement wallpapers, is a fun setting for head chef Chris Chatfield's creative cooking. Go all out with the seven‑course tasting menu or pick and choose from the relaxed dining line‑up.

Back in Bridport, a table at Dorshi is the town's hottest ticket. Venture down an unassuming alleyway to discover some of the best Asian food in Dorset, crafted from the region's finest ingredients. Open for dining Wednesdays to Saturdays (the bar operates seven‑days a week – more on that later), its menu is split into 'dumplings' and 'not dumplings'. We recommend ordering from both lists and brushing up on your chopsticks skills in preparation.

Soulshine
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Rise
20 / ISSUE 193 BOOK FOR LUNCH OR DINNER 01460 234476 Bishopswood, Chard, Somerset, TA20 3RS candlelight-inn.co.uk I N D E P E N D E N T S H O P S A T D A R T I N G T O N L O C A L F O O D S P E C I A L I S T S O N E M I L E O U T S I D E T O T N E S I N C L U D I N G A C U R A T E D R A N G E O F S U S T A I N A B L E W I N E S , O R G A N I C B E E R S , D E L I C O U N T E R + M O R E D A R T I N G T O N E S T A T E , T O T N E S , D E V O N T Q 9 6 T Q dartington.org/cider press O p e n d a i l y : 1 0 a m 5 p m

Where to drink

You don't have to be an overnight guest at The Bridge House to enjoy the spoils of its Dark Bear Bar. Run by the award‑winning Dark Bear collective, this decadent drinking den is one of the best spots in town for a pre‑dinner cocktail. It also houses a dedicated rum bar featuring over 200 varieties.

If you're into interesting cocktails you'll definitely want to hit up the drinks menu at Dorshi. Yes, the main focus here is the food, but the team are also pretty serious about serving innovative cocktails, great wines and darn drinkable beers. Try the herbaceous Little Green Slushy (mezcal, crushed ice, coriander and lime) or the indulgent Short, Dark and Handsome (cold brew coffee and Amaro Montenegro).

For one of the best collections of craft ales and beers (and good wines) in Dorset, head to The Pursuit of Hoppiness in the centre of Bridport. Inside, you'll find an exciting assortment of local tipples and craft beers from further afield.

Where to shop

From 8am until mid‑afternoon on Wednesdays and Saturdays, Bridport Market takes over three of the town's main roads. Coincide your visit so you can browse street stalls that sell everything from doorknobs and jewellery to toy cars and retro prints.

If rummaging for bargains at the market ignites an untapped interest in vintage treasures, make tracks to Customs House Emporium for round two. You'll need to be eagle‑eyed to uncover any significant finds but sifting through the rails of flamboyant coats, denim dungarees and silk scarfs is all part of the fun.

Booked an Airbnb? Stock its cupboards with delicious local produce, booze and baked goods from Rise Market & Bakery. Located in a modest spot between a fuel station and an auto centre on a roundabout, the indie store is easy to miss but worth seeking out for homemade sourdough, Furleigh Estate fizz and Dorset charcuterie and cheese.

Those planning a picky spread of local delights for their casual dinner should add a consignment from Chesil Smokery to their plans. The smokery supplies some of the region's best restaurants (including Mark Hix's The Oyster & Fish House in Lyme Regis), and you can order goodies such as hot‑smoked salmon, smoked haddock and smoked mackerel to pick up from its Bridport HQ.

A smorgasbord supper calls for a top‑notch bottle of wine and that can be found at Morrish & Banham in Bridport. The wine merchant has shops in both Bridport and Dorchester, where customers in search of a recommendation receive expert direction from co‑founder Mark Banham and team.

Dorshi
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Rise Market & Bakery

Trencherman's turns 30

For three decades, the Trencherman's Guide has directed discerning foodies to the South West's most notable dining experiences. To mark the launch of the 30th edition, we talk to its chairman Michael Caines MBE about the region's thriving dining scene

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‘It's become a popular way for gourmets to plan restaurant-centred mini breaks in the South West’

For 30 years, the Trencherman's Guide has tracked the careers of some of the region's most notable chefs – from Michael Caines and Nathan Outlaw to Mark Hix and Elly Wentworth.

The 30th edition of the guide, which has just been published, features an incredible range of top‑quality restaurants which span from Cornwall to the Cotswolds. Casual dining spots such as Porthminster Beach Cafe rub shoulders with manor houses such as Lucknam Park, while top‑notch rural dining pubs such as Sign of the Angel sit alongside small but chic restaurants with rooms such as Kota. Because the guide highlights and includes numerous places where guests can eat extremely well and also stay the night, it's become a popular way for gourmets to plan restaurant‑centred mini breaks in the South West.

Since its initial launch in 1992 by Kit Chapman of The Castle at Taunton and Paul Henderson (formerly of Gidleigh Park in Devon), the Trencherman's Guide has documented the development of the unique food and dining culture of the South West of England. During the guide's 30‑year history, it's chronicled restaurants as they've launched and closed, and marked food trends as they've bubbled up and popped. It's also charted established restaurants as they've passed from one generation of remarkable chefs to the next.

Michael Caines, chef patron of Michelin‑starred Lympstone Manor in Devon, is chairman of the guide and the person who, in 2010, brought in South West publishers Salt Media to look after the publication.

Understandably, he's proud of the longevity of the little book that's described by Rick Stein as ‘a guide with teeth’, and says:

‘This 30th edition is a fantastic opportunity to look back at the progress that's been made in the South West dining scene over the past 30 years.’

When the first Trencherman's Guide was published, just 25 restaurants hit the scoring criteria required to be a Trencherman's member and feature in the publication. The new 30th edition features 116, including a strong contingent of restaurants that are new to the collection.

Restaurants are invited into the guide on meeting strict scoring criteria based on AA, The Good Food Guide and Michelin Guide ratings, along with grading visits by Trencherman's writers.

‘The criteria haven't changed, so this 30th edition demonstrates the rise in the quality and breadth of discerning restaurants in the region,’ says Michael.

‘I think what's driven the success of the South West as one of UK's leading areas for restaurants and hospitality (and why people like to visit) is our connection with the produce grown and reared here. Our wonderful larder is one of the elements that differentiates us from other areas in the UK.

‘We also have a fantastic food community and a wealth of talent – both chefs and service staff. And when you combine those with the natural beauty of the place, it's no coincidence the South West hospitality scene is buzzing.’

Trencherman's Guide 30 is available, priced £9.99, from the Trencherman's website and at member restaurants.

trenchermans‑guide.com

Turn the page for details on how to win the ultimate Trencherman's experience.

23 / TRENCHERMAN'S TURNS 30
Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, Colerne, SN14 8AZ Tel: +44 (0)1225 742777 | reservations@lucknampark.co.uk

Win

the ultimate Trencherman's experience

To celebrate the release of the 30th Trencherman's Guide, we've teamed up with chairman Michael Caines and some of the book's partners to treat one lucky reader to the ultimate Trencherman's experience.

The winner (and their plus one) will get to dine at Michael's Michelin‑starred restaurant at Lympstone Manor near Exmouth, where they'll be treated to an exquisite four‑course lunch.

They'll also receive a bundle of luxury products from Trencherman's Guide partners, including a case of Sharp's Brewery beers (featuring its very special Camel Valley Pilsner), a gift‑boxed bottle of Salcombe Gin Voyager Series 'Daring' (a collaboration with chef Paul Ainsworth), a hamper of fruity Frobishers goodies (including 12 bottles of cordials, juices, presses and fusions), six bottles of Ondarre Gran Reserva Rioja and six bottles of J. de Villebois Sauvignon Blanc from Strictly Wines – courtesy of Hallgarten & Novum Wines – and The Greenhouse Gala Gift Set from Noble Isle.

THE PRIZE A four‑course lunch for two at Lympstone Manor, plus a case of Sharp's beers, bottle of Salcombe Gin Voyager Series 'Daring', hamper of Frobishers juices, 12 bottles of wine from Hallgarten & Novum Wines and Noble Isle's The Greenhouse Gala Gift Set.

THE QUESTION In which year was the first Trencherman's Guide published?

To enter, visit food‑mag.co.uk/win See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is December 31, 2022.

25 / TRENCHERMAN'S TURNS 30
Trencherman's Guide is supported by

REVIEWS

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Thornbury Castle

Eat and drink at Henry VIII's grand country pile like you have a meeting with the executioner in the morning, says Kathryn Lewis

Castle Street, Thornbury, Gloucestershire, BS35 1HH

WHAT'S THE DRAW?

The chance to live like Henry VIII for an evening – but with better food and fewer beheadings.

Thornbury Castle was once the property of King Henry (he acquired it on bumping off its owner, the third Duke of Buckingham, for treason), yet the cut‑throat monarch made just a single visit.

After the death of Henry's son, Edward VI, the castle and grounds were left to rot until the 19th century when renovation began. The restoration continued – on and off – until the 1960s when it was transformed into a hotel and restaurant.

Today, Thornbury Castle fully leans into its Tudor heritage, and the guestrooms, lounges and dining rooms are dressed as if royalty might drop by at any moment. You certainly don't have to be a history buff to be seduced by the setting as its magic will assuredly bewitch any contemporary traveller.

WHO'S COOKING?

Carl Cleghorn (brother of Michelin‑starred chef Chris Cleghorn of Olive Tree Restaurant in Bath) took over as executive chef in 2020. Carl brought with him experience of cooking at some of the country's top hotels and manor houses, and his classic cooking style perfectly suits the castle's opulent dining rooms.

The ambitious chef has a kitchen garden brimming with vegetables, herbs and fruits at his fingertips, which he supplements with the finest meat and fish the South West has to offer. He uses this uber‑seasonal produce to craft fine‑dining dishes that amalgamate traditional techniques with forward‑thinking flavour combinations.

WHAT TO ORDER?

Evening diners can decide between à la carte and six‑course tasting menus, but those who opt to pick and choose from the three course line‑up needn't worry that they will miss out on any culinary theatre.

Whichever route is taken, dinner begins with drinks and canapés in a palatial lounge – complete with roaring fire and portraits of beady‑eyed royals – before diners are shown to their table in one of two wood‑panelled dining rooms.

We started with a raviolo of jet‑black ruched pasta loaded with Loch Duart salmon and crevette, topped with salty orbs of roe and served in a coral‑coloured shellfish bisque. A second starter of rich foie gras torchon was balanced by the sweetness of apricot, almond and brioche.

The mains that followed were in line with the refined MO: a fillet of Cornish stone bass (with crisp skin and springy flesh) was served with the unconventional yet complementary accompaniments of squash and parmesan, while a trio of Wiltshire pork displayed the versatility of the ingredient through three distinctive cuts. Don't let the restrained portion sizes trick you into thinking you'll definitely have room for dessert: homemade bread and the amuse bouche served between canapés and first course make it essential to proceed mindfully if you don't want to miss out on Carl's grand finale. It would be treason not to save space for the single‑origin dark chocolate fondant lavished with salted caramel and praline.

FOOD'S TIP

For the real royal experience, splash out on a night in the Henry VIII suite. The octagonal room with four‑poster bed was where Henry stayed with his second wife Anne Boleyn when they visited in 1535.

thornburycastle.co.uk

27 / REVIEWS

Talland Bay Hotel

Imagine falling down the rabbit hole and landing somewhere quite extraordinary in south‑east Cornwall. Intrigued? Read on, says Rosanna Rothery Porthallow, Cornwall, PL13 2JB

WHAT'S THE DRAW?

It's easy to be awestruck when you first catch sight of the truly gasp‑worthy coastal vista at this boutique hotel. Swathes of lush sub‑tropical gardens appear to drop away (think grass infinity‑pool) to reveal the iridescent blue of the brine below, framed by wooded cliffs. Tucked away on the South West Coast Path, between the historic fishing village of Polperro and the bustling port of Looe, Talland Bay Hotel feels like an undiscovered and unspoilt secret. A far cry from the coastal‑chic hues and nautical motifs typically found in swanky Cornish hideaways, the extended 16th‑century house exudes a magical wonderland vibe.

The hotel and grounds brim with eye‑catching artwork. Kooky curios include a wooden grandfather clock with a face, a metal man with a lampshade for a head, giant budgies carved on a log bench, fairy folk flitting around toadstools and some rather cheeky (quite literally) chiselled wall sculptures.

If the description sounds tacky it's not meant to. This is a hotel that oozes seclusion, glamour and quality in every last detail, yet it's all served with a good dose of humour and dash of fun.

WHO'S COOKING?

A small but perfectly formed team (including head chef Glen Merriott, his sous chef and brother Jack and pastry chef Alisha Varney) ensure the food is as stand‑out as the setting. Glen's flourishes of imagination are to be found in inspirational and delicious seven‑course menus crafted from seasonal Cornish fare.

WHAT TO ORDER?

The scrumptious canapés that accompanied our pre‑dinner drinks in the bar ensured we were feeling giddy about the gastronomy even before reaching the table. Once in the dining room, an amuse bouche of white parmesan velouté with cheese croutons, and pain de campagne with whipped Marmite butter further prepared the palate for the exciting line‑up to come.

Commercial versions of smoked salmon can often taste identical, but our home‑cured jewel‑pink starter in a pistachio and pink pepper crumb was distinctive. The dish dazzled with the zesty contrast of pickled radish and whipped lime yogurt.

Nothing lifts flagging spirits at this time of year like slow‑roasted meat, and our loin of venison with Mangalitsa black pudding, wild mushrooms and fondant potatoes was suitably earthy and comforting. The sweet tang of a pear and apple puree and caramelised shallot elevated the dish into the realms of the sublime.

Each course delivered a triple whammy of taste, texture and surprise, which extended to the pre‑dessert of Champagne jelly with syllabub and frosted grapes, and the fabulous finale of dark chocolate trifle with pecan financier, miso caramel, bitter citrus jelly and chocolate sorbet.

FOOD'S TIP

If utter privacy, Lewis Carroll‑style eccentricity, superb cooking and captivating sea views float your boat then take advantage of Talland Bay Hotel's range of accommodation which includes sea‑view rooms, garden cottages and a self‑catering bungalow. It's incredibly dog‑friendly too, should you want to spoil Fido rotten. tallandbayhotel.co.uk

28 / ISSUE 193
29 / REVIEWS

Tried & Tested

Dartmoor Whisky Tasting Experience

Nick Cooper visits Bovey Tracey to sniff, slurp and swig Devon whiskies at the county's first single‑malt distillery

30 / ISSUE 193

WHAT IS IT?

The opportunity to immerse yourself in a whisky tasting experience at a distillery, without having to travel all the way to Scotland.

Housed in Bovey Tracey's old town hall, Dartmoor Whisky Distillery was Devon's first single‑malt whisky distillery. It's an atmospheric spot for a tutored tasting with owner Greg Millar, where visitors get to sniff, sip and slurp their way through a variety of Greg's whiskies in the presence of the hand‑beaten copper still from which they dripped.

WHY?

The dark arts of whisky distilling are swathed in myth and mystery, so this is an opportunity to see the process first‑hand and to winkle out the facts from the fiction. Tasting different honey‑hued spirits side by side provides a helpful understanding of how ageing techniques affect the end product. Greg guides his guests through the intricacies of three whisky expressions: those aged in American oak bourbon, French oak Bordeaux and Spanish sherry barrels, and even dispenses a shot of his Dartmoor Gin for good measure.

Whether you know your mash bill from your sherry bomb or are a complete novice when it comes to swirling a dram in a tumbler in front of an open fire, you'll find plenty to enjoy.

THE LOW‑DOWN

The fact that Dartmoor's climate and soil are similar to Scotland's famed Speyside region gave Greg the confidence to set up the distillery on the moor. His entertaining presentation reveals the relevance of this terroir, the alchemy of local barley and Dartmoor water, and the significance of the shape of his French ex‑cognac still.

COST

The tasting experience is £15 per person and available on Saturdays. Booking is essential. Gift vouchers also available.

RECOMMEND TO A FRIEND?

Certainly – or, better still, a group of friends. The distillery can hold a maximum of 40 people per session, so it's a tempting idea for a group get‑together or even a Christmas do. Just make sure you're not down to drive the minibus.

dartmoorwhiskydistillery.co.uk

‘The dark arts of whisky distilling are swathed in myth and mystery’
31 / TRIED & TESTED
Greg Millar at his distillery

5 of the best ETHICAL CHRISTMAS TURKEYS

With so much to organise for the big day, it's tempting to take the easy option and pick up a supermarket centrepiece. However, for unrivalled flavour and minimal food miles, it's worth putting in an ounce of extra effort and sourcing a sustainably reared turkey from one of these South West producers

1 Nempnett Pastures

The team at this small family‑run farm near Bristol have turned traditional British turkey farming on its head.

With a focus on creating food that enhances the environment instead of depleting it, sixth‑generation farmer George Ford raises his birds exclusively on pasture. He's even created a mobile structure on which the birds can roost at night (in the wild they'd roost in trees), and uses guard dogs to keep them safe from nocturnal predators.

The Nempnett turkeys are fed a natural cereal diet, which the birds supplement with insects foraged from the native pastures they explore each day. ‘It brings me such joy to see the birds moved to fresh pasture so regularly,’ says George.

‘The grass growth from all the turkey manure is phenomenal and produces quality feed for our grass-fed beef herd. The pasture-raised turkeys form part of our circular farming model which naturally fertilises our land, while producing a product of exceptional quality.’

nempnettpastures.co.uk

2 The Dorset Meat Company

The Dorset Meat Company has built a solid reputation for its ethically reared and grass‑fed meat – and it applies the same sustainable principles to its Christmas turkeys.

Founders Nick and Jane Somper source their turkeys from award‑winning producer KellyBronze. The free‑range birds are grown slowly and are allowed to roam freely on the estate, grazing on forage (as well as corn and soya) which yields naturally flavoursome meat.

Those who order their Christmas Day centrepiece from The Dorset Meat Company will receive it packaged in a KellyBronze presentation box containing a complimentary meat thermometer and cooking instructions.

thedorsetmeatcompany.co.uk

32 / ISSUE 193

3 Treway Farm

Treway Farm near St Austell specialises in grass‑fed longhorn cattle, however, in the run up to Christmas, farmers Kate and Will Martin also rear Cornish turkeys and geese. Kate and Will are passionate about regenerative farming and have trees and herbal leys in their pasture to increase diversity, which benefit their animals as well as the environment. Their Great Taste award‑winning Bronze turkeys are game hung and hand finished, and come with giblets (for homemade gravy), fresh herbs, cooking instructions and a pop‑up timer.

trewayfarm.co.uk

4

Wonnacott Farm

This Devon farm is one of a small handful of registered‑organic poultry breeders in the UK. The family team at Wonnacott have reared turkeys for 22 years and also reserve space on their land to grow organic cereals to feed their birds.

The flock of Norfolk Blacks live free‑range in the orchard and surrounding fields, and spend their days gobbling up acorns, nettles, windfall apples and blackberries.

Wonnacott's turkey can be pre‑ordered and collected from the farm in Lewdown or from collection spots in Exeter, Okehampton and Tavistock.

wonnacottfarm.co.uk

5 Pipers Farm

Five small‑scale farms across Devon and Somerset supply online butcher Pipers Farm with its ‘properly free range’ Bronze turkeys. The birds get to live in environments that range from rugged moorland to a cider orchard, and thrive in their rural outdoor settings.

Pipers' turkeys are fed a natural diet fortified with grass, nettles, insects, fodder, beet and apples and allowed to mature slowly. They live significantly longer than many other free‑range and organic birds, which means the meat develops a rich flavour and good texture. Each turkey is dry plucked – by hand – before being hung for 12 days.

pipersfarm.com

5
33 / 5 OF THE BEST

WEEKEND COOKING

Recipes from the South West's leading chefs and producers

34 / ISSUE 193

Festive meringue wreath with clotted cream, spiced apples and salted caramel

Recipe from the team at Trewithen Dairy in Lostwithiel, Cornwall

Serves 6

For the meringues: Free‑range egg whites 6 large Caster sugar 350g

For the spiced apples: Trewithen Dairy Salted Butter 40g Light brown soft sugar 50g Mixed spice 2 tsp Tart apples (we use Granny Smith) 2, cored and thinly sliced

For the salted caramel: Light brown soft sugar 175g Trewithen Dairy Cornish Clotted Cream 200g Trewithen Dairy Salted Butter 50g Sea salt fl akes 1 tsp

To assemble: Trewithen Dairy Cornish Clotted Cream 200g Fudge 50g, crumbled Icing sugar 10g, for sifting Fresh mint leaves to garnish

1 For the meringues: preheat the oven to 140°C / gas 1. Line a large baking tray with baking parchment.

2 Using a stand mixer, whisk the egg whites until soft peaks form. Add the sugar, 1 spoonful at a time, and continue to whisk until the mixture is thick, glossy and holds stiff peaks.

3 Transfer the meringue mixture to a piping bag, snip off the tip and pipe small meringues onto the lined tray, pulling the bag away to make neat peaks.

4 Bake in the centre of the oven for 1 hour or until completely cooked – the bottoms should sound hollow when tapped. Once cooked, turn off the oven, leave the door slightly ajar and allow the meringues to cool completely on the tray.

5 For the spiced apples: melt the butter in a heavy‑based pan over a low to medium heat. Stir in the sugar and mixed spice then, once the sugar has melted, add the apple slices and cover with the sauce. Reduce the heat and allow the apples to cook gently until soft but holding their shape. Set aside.

6 For the salted caramel sauce: combine all of the ingredients in a small saucepan and stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Turn up the heat a little and simmer until it becomes thick and glossy. Set aside.

7 To assemble the wreath: place a ramekin of salted caramel sauce and a ramekin of clotted cream on a large platter. Arrange the meringues into a wreath shape. Fill in the gaps with spiced apples and crumbled fudge pieces. Sift icing sugar over the top and garnish with mint leaves.

The team at Trewithen have also shared their recipe for red onion tarte tatin, fi nd it  at food‑mag.co.uk

trewithendairy.co.uk

‘You can make the mini meringues a couple of days in advance and construct the wreath on the day of serving’
35 / WEEKEND COOKING

Rupert has also shared his recipe for ultimate beans on toast, fi nd it  at food‑mag.co.uk

36 / ISSUE 193

Smoked mackerel rarebit

Serves 4

Butter 50g, plus extra for toast Flour 50g Milk 100ml, warm Strong beer 150ml, warm Mature cheddar 250g, grated English mustard 2 tsp Worcestershire sauce 2 tbsp Smoked mackerel fillets 200g, skinned and flaked Black pepper to season Good bread 4 thick slices Rocket a handful, chopped Chutney to garnish

1 In a small saucepan, melt the butter and then stir in the flour to make a roux. Cook through for a couple of minutes, stirring regularly to prevent the roux from burning.

2 Slowly stir in the warm milk and then the beer until you have a smooth thick sauce.

3 Add the cheese to the sauce and stir until it has melted and a thick paste has formed. Stir in the mustard and worcestershire sauce, then the flaked mackerel. Season with black pepper.

4 Lightly toast and butter the bread and place on a baking tray. Top the slices with the mackerel mixture and cook under a hot grill for a few minutes until golden brown and bubbling.

5 Garnish with rocket and your choice of chutney. philleighway.co.uk

‘These topped toasts are the ultimate winter comfort food and a super simple midweek meal,’ says Rupert 37 / WEEKEND COOKING

Spiced roast pork with swede and winter salad

Recipe from the team at Teals near Yeovil, Somerset

Serves 4

For the spiced salt: Sichuan pepper 1 tbsp Fennel seeds 1 tbsp Black pepper 1 tbsp Star anise 1 Sea salt 2 tbsp

For the pork and swede: Pork belly 1kg, skin scored and ribs attached Rapeseed oil Swede 1 medium, bottom cut off so it stands flat Salt

For the winter salad: Chicory 3‑4 heads, leaves separated Watercress 1 large bunch, roughly chopped Hazelnuts a handful, lightly toasted and roughly chopped Rapeseed oil 200ml Cider vinegar 60ml Dijon mustard 1 tbsp Honey 1 tbsp Salt a pinch

Black pepper a crack

For the sweet and sour gravy: Medium‑dry Somerset cider 350ml Quince jelly a spoonful Sherry vinegar a splash

1 Preheat the oven to 210°C / gas 8.

2 For the spiced salt: crush the spices in a pestle and mortar then mix with the sea salt.

3 For the pork and swede: rub the spiced salt and a little rapeseed oil into the pork skin and across the sides.

4 Lay 3 sheets of foil on top of each other. Rub a little oil over the swede and sprinkle liberally with salt. Place the swede in the centre of the foil and wrap, twisting the top closed.

5 Place the pork and swede in separate casserole dishes and put in the oven.

6 After 20 minutes, reduce the heat to 160°C / gas 3. Pour a glass of water into the dish containing the pork (avoid pouring the water directly onto the pork) and cook for 2½ hours. Check intermittently, adding more water if necessary to stop the dish from scorching.

7 Remove the pork and swede from the oven and allow the pork to rest for 30 minutes. Reserve the fat for the gravy. Unwrap the swede and keep it warm while you make the salad and gravy.

8 For the winter salad: combine the chicory, watercress and hazelnuts in a bowl. In another bowl, make the vinaigrette by combining the remaining ingredients.

9 For the gravy: pour a small amount of pork fat into a pan over a medium heat, add the cider and then reduce to cook off the alcohol. Add a spoonful of quince jelly and a splash of sherry vinegar.

10 To carve the pork: turn the pork upside down, then carefully carve slices between the bones using a sharp knife, cutting through the crackling last (this makes it much easier).

11 To serve: cut the swede into quarters, then plate a quarter per person alongside a serving of pork. Dress the salad with the vinaigrette and plate. Finish each dish with a good glug of sweet and sour gravy.

teals.co.uk

38 / ISSUE 193
39 / WEEKEND COOKING

The Trencherman’s Awards return!

Show your favourite restaurants, dining pubs and foodie hotels some love by voting for them in the Trencherman's Awards 2023 Voting opens on December 1 at trenchermans-guide.com The Trencherman's Awards are supported by

‘For the traditional gnocchi shape, place a fork on the counter and, using your thumb, slide each ball down the tines of the fork. The gnocchi will turn under your thumb until it has grooves the whole way round,’ says Tracey

Butternut squash gnocchi with sage pesto and squash puree

Serves 4

For the gnocchi: Russet potatoes 500g, peeled, baked and cooled Salt 1 tsp

Olive oil 2 tbsp, plus extra for frying Plain flour 285g Vegan spread

For the sage pesto: Pine nuts 100g Garlic 2 cloves, peeled and crushed Vegan hard cheese 50g, grated Extra virgin olive oil 100ml Sage leaves 120g Lemon ½, juice Salt ½ tsp

For the puree: Butternut squash 1, halved lengthways and deseeded Olive oil

Salt and pepper to season

1 For the gnocchi: press the potatoes through a potato ricer into a large bowl and add the salt, oil and flour. Combine the ingredients by hand, gently kneading the mixture into a ball.

2 Keeping the dough covered so it doesn't dry out, form individual gnocchi balls (around 1 tsp of dough) using your hands. If the dough is sticky, toss each ball in flour.

3 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Add the gnocchi and cook for about 4 minutes, or until the gnocchi float to the top. Remove the gnocchi with a slotted spoon.

4 For the sage pesto: in a frying pan, dry toast the pine nuts until golden.

5 Put the toasted pine nuts, garlic, cheese and oil in a food processor and blitz until roughly chopped. Add the sage leaves, lemon juice and salt, then blitz until you reach your preferred consistency.

6 For the puree: preheat the oven to 200°C / gas 6. Roast one half of the butternut squash for 20‑30 minutes until soft. Once slightly cooled, remove the skin and blend until smooth. Season to taste.

7 Peel the other half of the squash and dice into 1cm cubes. Coat in a little oil, salt and pepper and roast in the oven for 15‑20 minutes.

8 To assemble: melt a knob of vegan spread and 1 tsp of olive oil in a pan over a medium heat. Add the gnocchi and fry for 2–3 minutes until slightly golden. Add the sage pesto and cook for 1 minute.

9 To plate: place the pureed squash on a plate and top with gnocchi. Sprinkle with the roasted squash and serve.

thedonkeysanctuary.co.uk

41 / WEEKEND COOKING
Recipe by Tracey head chef of The Kitchen at The Donkey Sanctuary in Sidmouth, Devon
WINSLADE MANOR Our Chef Director Matt Mason creates super seasonal Elegant Dining menus that showcases locally sourced, top quality ingredients and supports local suppliers. Book today at www.winslademanor.com or call 01392 640644
AT

№11

Pheasant

Not enough people eat pheasant, which is a great shame because it's delicious, great value and a sustainable meat.

As the cost of living continues to rise, the game bird is a brilliant swap for chicken: you  can get a free‑range, organic pheasant for around £4, which is at least half the price of the chicken equivalent. They're abundant in  the South West, so it's also an easy way to reduce food miles.

SOURCE Pheasant comes into season around mid‑October, but it's best to wait to source one until after the first frost as, by then, the birds will have fattened up for winter. You should be able to buy them at your local butchers or good farm shops. Some butchers hang the birds, which results in a gamier meat, but I prefer a less powerful flavour so I cook them fresh.

When I worked at The Jack in the Green near Exeter, after service the local gamekeepers would drop in around 100 pheasants which we'd swap for a good few glasses of whisky. We'd prepare them that evening and have them on the menu the next day.

PREP Ask your butcher to prepare the pheasant as plucking feathers can get messy.

For first timers, I wouldn't recommend cooking a whole bird as it's tricky to stop the meat drying out. Instead, ask for the breasts, thighs (deboned) and any trimmings.

SERVE Pick up some delicious local sausages while at the butchers and use them to stuff the thighs – you can also use the trimmings. Poach the stuffed thighs and then serve them with the pan‑fried breast (see below) and a whisky and mustard sauce.

Fry the breasts in a hot pan with some butter and aim for a very slight blush in the centre –this should only take a minute or so on each side as they're generally quite small. It's most important to leave them to rest for a while before serving.

I'll be doing something similar at Àclèaf this winter. I'll flatten out the breast like a schnitzel, layer it with the thigh meat, homemade pheasant sausage and oats. I'll roll that up and then poach and roast it. It'll be served with lentils flavoured with pancetta, pheasant bones and fresh herbs.

acleaf.co.uk

Scott's hero ingredients
43 / SCOTT'S HERO INGREDIENTS
Scott Paton, head chef of Àclèaf in Plymouth, reveals his seasonal hero ingredient and shares a few tips on how to prepare it at home
44 / ISSUE 193 AA Award-winning family-run restaurant in the heart of Lyme Regis with an emphasis on local seafood and fish 01297 445999 www.themillside.co.uk 1 Mill Lane, Lyme Regis, DT7 3PU

The pro's patisserie secrets

Creating patisserie is an art form, one that requires combining technical know‑how and attention to detail with an astute knowledge of flavour pairings and the ability to master intricate techniques such as glazing, lamination, chocolate and sugar work. In a busy kitchen, a skilled pastry chef deftly zones out the hubbub and in on the detail.

It's a skill that Darryl Collins, the new executive pastry chef at The Alverton and The Greenbank hotels in Cornwall, has mastered over a 25‑year career.

‘You need to know your grams and micrograms and be precise in everything you do,’ he says. ‘Once you've been doing it a while, you can start to create your own recipes and come up with mousses, cakes and other masterpieces.’

It was in 2018, while working at Resorts World Birmingham, that Darryl felt confident enough to apply for Bake Off: The Professionals alongside his sous chef Bharat Chandegra.

‘It was extremely difficult, but I learnt a lot from the experience, such as how to do sugar work and chocolate sculptures. It was really tough – in total about eight weeks of pain!’ he says.

The hard work almost paid off. After nearly being eliminated in the first episode, the duo rallied and made it to the final. Sadly, in a memorable Bake Off moment, Darryl's sugar sculpture showpiece collapsed 15 minutes before the end.

‘In my eyes, we would've won had my sugar sculpture not fallen on the floor, but these things are sent to try us,’ he reflects.

He's not bitter about it, however, citing the experience as one of the most rewarding of his career to date: ‘It's less of a competition and more of a survival thing. And I made some life-long friends.’

In his new role at The Alverton and The Greenbank, Darryl will be ramping up the hotels' pastry offerings and developing the chefs' skills in the fine art of patisserie. ‘Our plan is to continue elevating our pastry and afternoon teas. I've got an artistic mind. I like pastry because you are free to do what you want, as long as you're creative, and it shows in my desserts.’

Perfect your patisserie

Darryl's top tips for aspiring pastry pros

Read the recipe, at least twice This will help prevent tears of frustration when you don't follow a step properly and things go wrong.

Be creative

Try recipes and techniques outside your comfort zone – you'll be surprised what you can achieve.

Be social

Social media is a great way of gleaning creative inspiration and learning how to bake.

thealverton.co.uk
From the pressure‑cooker experience of taking part in  Bake Off: The Professionals to crafting creative confections at a duo of luxury hotels in Cornwall, pastry chef Darryl Collins has form. He reveals his trade secrets
45 / SUPPORTED CONTENT

THE DRINKS CURATOR

Drinks pro Susy Atkins reveals her seasonal pick of the pack

5breweries to visit

A brewery outing is the perfect treat for the beer lover in your life. Louise Treseder of Driftwood Spars in Cornwall shares some of her South West faves you can visit

COLWITH FARM AVAL DOR

CHRISTMAS PUDDING VODKA

Based on Colwith Farm's award‑winning Cornish potato vodka, this festive spirit is an absolute winner. Not cloyingly over‑sweet but with layer after layer of clove, cinnamon, orange, caramel and even a hint of chocolate, it's richly textured and finishes fresh and slightly peppery. Drink it on the rocks, fireside.

£37.99

colwithfarmdistillery.co.uk

CHEDDAR ALES, SOMERSET

Delicious gluten‑free cask and keg beer is brewed on the slopes of the Mendip Hills. There's a tap room on‑site and tours are available on various dates throughout the year.

JAMES STREET BREWERY, BATH

At the heart of The Bath Brew House is the gleaming James Street Brewery where you can watch brewers crafting unique cask ales. Brewery tours and experience days can be booked on the website.

DRIFTWOOD SPARS BREWERY, CORNWALL

Our own gluten‑free brewery located in Cornwall's stunning Trevaunance Cove offers tours, brew days and tutored tastings by appointment. Its sister pub, The Driftwood Spars, is the place to sample the Classic and Cove ranges.

OTTER BREWERY, DEVON

High in the heart of the Blackdown Hills, this family‑run brewery has been producing cask beer for more than 25 years. If you fancy booking a group brewery tour, drop them an email.

CERNE ABBAS BREWERY, DORSET

At Cerne Abbas Brewery, cask beer is brewed using green‑sand filtered water and Maris Otter barley that's grown organically in the Cerne Valley. There's a tap room and beer garden on‑site and events run throughout the year.

driftwoodsparsbrewery.com

46 / ISSUE 193

Dark and Stormy

Makes 1

Dark rum 50ml Lime ½, juice Frobishers Ginger and Juniper Spectacular Sparkler 1 bottle

Optional garnish: Mint a sprig Lime a slice

1 Fill a highball glass with ice then add the rum.

2 Squeeze in the juice of the lime and top with Frobishers Ginger and Juniper Spectacular Sparkler.

3 Garnish with a sprig of mint or a slice of lime.

frobishers.com

Recipe from Charlotte Stainforth of Frobishers in Exeter
47 / WEEKEND COOKING
‘This is a super simple recipe so garnish imaginatively, but remember less is often more,’ says Charlotte

Eat sustainably, live sustainably

We all want to live sustainably. Sometimes it can seem a bit daunting, but we don’t have to change the world – just the parts that need changing.

Heating our homes is a major contributing factor to the production of greenhouse gases. And if you live in a listed or period property you’ll know the financial costs, too. But our advanced secondary glazing, draught-proofing and loft insulation can help, reducing heat loss by up to 40% in a detached property and 50% in a mid-terrace.

We’ve insulated 650 homes, saving 13,000 tonnes of CO² and helping our customers save up to 50% on their heating bills. But there’s lots more to do.

Imagine, a warmer home costing less to heat and emitting fewer greenhouse gases. That’s positive change.

Call to request an estimate or FREE survey

Bath 01225 683255 | Bideford 01237 429826 | Bristol 0117 287 2799 | Newbury 01635 904088 info@mitchellanddickinson.co.uk | mitchellanddickinson.co.uk

FESTIVE WINE

PAIRINGS

Mark Banham, co‑founder of Morrish & Banham wine merchant in Dorset, shares his top drops for Christmas lunch

DORSET CRÉMANT, BRIDE VALLEY VINEYARD, £28.99

Living in the Bride Valley, there's only one choice of festive fizz in the Banham household. Our neighbours at Bride Valley Vineyard produce many great wines, but their Dorset Crémant is particularly good.

A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir grapes, it's bottled at a lower pressure than most sparkling wines so glides across the palate. A perfect Christmas aperitif and wonderful with seasonal canapés.

BACCHUS DRY, FURLEIGH ESTATE,

LIRAC, DOMAINE D'ARBOUSSET,

£24.99

If you're after a red pairing, look no further than Lirac from Domaine d'Arbousset. We've enjoyed this wonderful wine, in the superb 2016 vintage, for at least the past two Christmas lunches and it's absolutely delicious.

Lirac is a village in the southern Rhône, France, which produces lovely soft and spicy wines from Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah grapes. There are many flavours on the Christmas lunch table so this wine, with dense, soft, succulent red‑fruit notes, is an ideal pairing.

£19.99

The fishy first course – usually a melange of crab, prawns, smoked salmon and smoked mackerel, served with homemade mayonnaise – is one of my favourite parts of the day.

Seafood starters need a white wine that packs a punch, and this Bacchus from Furleigh Estate near Bridport fits the bill. Almost an English Sauvignon Blanc, it has lashings of ripe gooseberry and green‑pepper fruit and lots of bright citrus acidity to cut through the rich smoked fish.

JOSEPHINE CHARDONNAY, STAETE LANDT, £19.99

If you're having turkey, both red and white wines work, but if you opt for white make sure to choose a full‑bodied and rounded drop like this New Zealand Chardonnay.

Its notes of ripe citrus and tropical fruit, gentle oak and rounded texture combine to create a wonderful partner for roast turkey.

PEDRO XIMENEZ TRIANA, BODEGAS HIDALGO, £16.99

One of the great pleasures of Christmas is a glass of Pedro Ximenez (or PX, as it's known) with pudding. A sweet grape variety grown in Jerez, Spain, good PX should be rich, full of wonderful sticky toffee and raisin flavours, and have a degree of freshness on the finish.

Triana is made by the Hidalgo family and offers sensational value for pleasure. If there is any left after lunch, a glass with a slice of Christmas cake and a chunk of sharp cheddar is the ultimate Boxing Day treat.

All of these wines are available at the Morrish & Banham shops in Dorchester and Bridport, and via its online shop.

morrishandbanham.com

49 / SUPPORTED CONTENT
50 / ISSUE 193 your secret ingredient Award-winning magazine publishers saltmedia.co.uk 01271 859299 KNAPP ROAD, KNAPP, TAUNTON, TA3 6BG 01823 491027 WWW.THERISINGSUNKNAPP.CO.UK THE ORIGINAL HIDDEN GEM www.marshford.co.uk 01237 477160 Churchill Way, Northam, North Devon EX39 1NS Organic veggies, salads and herbs (many homegrown), plus local fish, meat, eggs, bread and groceries are all available from our Northam store. Order online for collection or local deliveries

B e a hamper hero

Struggling to find unique and thoughtful gifts for foodie friends and fam? Give them a delicious outdoor dining experience care of Heart, Smoke & Soal

Hampers are a sure‑fire Christmas win – who doesn't love diving into a bundle of gorgeous goodies all wrapped up in one beautifully presented package? Yet, putting together a hamper can be a faff when you factor in the time spent picking out products and Christmas queues at the checkout. This year, let the pros at Heart, Smoke & Soal in Devon do the heavy lifting and treat your favourite alfresco cook to one of its artisan hampers.

The outdoor‑living specialists have curated a series of bespoke bundles featuring tried‑and‑tested products which will equip the recipient to create their own unique outdoor dining experiences.

There's a range of hampers in the Christmas collection, from the Dirty Burger box to a Fish Frenzy bundle. Here's our pick of the pack:

1 Meat Feast

Know someone whose dream Saturday centres around slow‑smoking a hunk of beef on the barbie? They'll love this hamper stuffed with salts, sauces and seasonings. In addition to a three‑piece tool kit and the Cluck, Oink, Baa, Moo: How to Choose, Prepare and Cook Meat and Poultry cookbook, it also contains Sea Crack Hickory Smoked Salt, Judge Casey's sauces, Haynes condiments and Hot Smoke smoking chips.

£115

2 Vegan Sublime

Show your plant‑based pal that alfresco suppers are just as exciting for vegans as meat‑eaters with this Vegan Sublime hamper. The assortment of products and vegan ingredients includes a large barbecue wok, Broighter flavoured oils, chimichurri mayo, hot and barbecue sauces, Heart, Smoke & Soal mugs, Sea Crack Hickory Smoked Salt and Josh's Chocolate.

£100

3 Pizza Pizzazzy

The at‑home wood‑fired pizza oven was the must‑have item of summer 2022 and this hamper, packed with pizza paraphernalia, makes the perfect pressie for the keeper of the flames.

The curation features a Heart, Smoke & Soal mango‑wood chopping board, artisan pizza cutter, apron, reusable hessian bag, the recipe book Craft Pizza: Homemade Classic, Sicilian and Sourdough Pizza, Calzone and Focaccia, Angus & Oink seasoning, Sauce Shop tomato sauce and Broighter flavoured oil.

£125

heartsmokesoal.co.uk

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WIN

a foodie surf retreat in Cornwall

As coastal resorts go, Watergate Bay Hotel has it all: a pristine sandy beach on its doorstep, luxe New England-style bedrooms with impressive sea views, a spa with an indoor infinity pool and outdoor hot tub, and a collection of casual and not-so-casual restaurants.

The concept is ‘ski resort on the beach’ – an uber-stylish family-friendly bolthole where you don't need to worry about sporting sea-salt-tousled hair and sandy toes when you settle on the terrace for a post-surf G&T.

Top of the WBH list for discerning foodies is a table at Zacry's, the hotel's flagship restaurant which serves globally inspired chargrilled meat, fish and veg dishes.

If you're in the mood for a more casual experience, The Living Space is a light and airy option where you can share antipasti plates over cocktails. Or take the short stroll to The Beach Hut for a menu that combines classic seaside favourites like fish and chips and moules marinière with a range of plant-based plates.

Emily Scott Food is the new gourmet addition to the experience. Her six-course seafood menu is a celebration of Cornwall's bountiful coastline - a simple concept exquisitely executed by Emily and her talented brigade. Expect to indulge in the likes of baked Cornish hake and roasted scallops with truffle

butter as you gaze out across Destiny Bay (the name given to Watergate Bay by the surfers who flock here for the consistent Atlantic swell).

Adventure comes courtesy of Wavehunters at the Extreme Academy, which offers surf lessons, fitness classes and yoga on the sand.

If the weather takes a turn before you've had a chance to perfect your pop-up, there are always the options of lounging with a coffee and a good read in the Swim Club, unwinding in the clifftop hot tub or doing a few laps of the 25-metre sea-view infinity pool.

THE PRIZE A two-night break for two at Watergate Bay Hotel, including breakfast and surf lessons with Wavehunters.

THE QUESTION How long is Watergate Bay Hotel's swimming pool?

To enter, visit food-mag.co.uk/win See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is December 31, 2022.

watergatebay.co.uk

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a case of Sharp's Camel Valley Pilsner

A collaboration between two of Cornwall's hero drinks-makers, Camel Valley Pilsner is a beer like no other.

Sharp's Brewery's experimental “Champagne” beer was tentatively launched at Padstow Christmas Festival in 2016. It turned out to be a roaring success and has since scooped five international awards, including the coveted title of World's Best Brut Beer in the World Beer Awards.

Brewed at Sharp's Brewery in Rock, north Cornwall, the method exceptionnelle lager is fermented using traditional pilsner yeast and aged using a blend of pilsner and new-world hops. It's then transported ten miles down the road to the award-winning Camel Valley vineyard where it's reseeded with Champagne yeast and bottled in classic 70cl bottles.

‘We love innovating with beer style, flavours and ingredients and also love collaborating with quality producers, so Camel Valley Pilsner is a dream come true,’ says head brewer Aaron McClure.

The resulting drink is deserving of its “crowd-pleasing” description, and appeals to both English wine lovers and craft beer fans. Its crisp, clean bitterness and fruity citrus aroma make it a deliciously different aperitif. And, with a restrained 6.6% ABV, it's the perfect drink to enjoy with friends.

THE PRIZE A case (six 70cl bottles) of Sharp's Camel Valley Pilsner.

THE QUESTION Which Cornish vineyard does Sharp's collaborate with in the creation of Camel Valley Pilsner?

To enter, visit food-mag.co.uk/win See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is December 31, 2022.

sharpsbrewery.co.uk

53 / WIN

Christmas gifts for coffee fans

An Indy Coffee Box subscription provides a monthly delivery of speciality-grade beans from the UK's hero roasters, plus the latest edition of journal Brew

From £19.99 a month. indycoffeebox.co.uk

Indy Cafe Cookbook 2 is jammed with 40 easy-to-recreate recipes from the UK's leading speciality cafes.

£20. indycoffee.guide

The South & South Wales Independent Coffee Guide reveals 200 of the region's best speciality coffee shops and roasteries to visit.

£9.99. indycoffee.guide

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A Taste of Cornwall escape

A feast for the senses begins the moment you set foot in The Greenbank Hotel and clap eyes on its panoramic views of Falmouth harbour.

This feelgood factor is further heightened by sipping a cocktail in the glam Water's Edge bar and hits peak pleasure upon tucking into artfully compiled dishes in the Water's Edge restaurant.

One reader and a companion will experience these delights via the hotel's overnight winter feasting package, A Taste of Cornwall.

The epicurean escape starts the way any good break should: with an arrival cocktail to take the edge off the journey and help you ease into holiday mode. Guests are then guided to their harbour-view room, where they can unwind in nautical-chic surroundings before glamming up for an unforgettable dinner.

Head chef Bobby Southworth showcases the best of the county's larder at the hotel's exclusive Taste of Cornwall events. The accomplished chef takes diners on an uber-seasonal tour of the surrounding landscape in six perfectly presented dishes.

Opening courses such as lobster ravioli with Cornish bisque and tarragon oil lay the foundations for sumptuous dishes like fillet of Cornish beef with caramelised shallot puree, confit carrot, sourdough and oyster.

Between courses, Bobby makes time to chat with diners and even shares some cooking tips, while sommelier Holly Bennetts is on hand to guide guests through her carefully curated wine flight.

THE PRIZE A Taste of Cornwall package for two, including an overnight stay, cocktails on arrival and tickets to the Taste of Cornwall dining event.

THE QUESTION What's the name of The Greenbank Hotel's restaurant?

To enter, visit food-mag.co.uk/win See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is December 31, 2022. greenbank-hotel.co.uk

WIN
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END GAME FOR THE INDIES? The spiralling costs of running a restaurant SOUTH WEST WINE COUNTRY Tour south Devon's vineyards food-mag.co.uk FREE Take me home Where to eat, drink, stay and shop Weekend in Fowey www.food-mag.co.uk May June 2021 Issue 184 £3.50 HIDDEN-GEM HOTELS Avoid the crowds this staycation season NEXT-GEN BAKERIES The new indies changing bread for the better WEEKEND COOKING Time to fire up the barbie Meet the women revolutionising British barbecue 'CUE QUEENS January/February 2022 Read more at food-mag.co.uk FREE SHOULD MEAT BE OFF THE MENU? read more at www.food-mag.co.uk April 2021 Issue 183 £3.50 WHERE SOLD LUCKY SEVEN The G7 gang's itineraries, sorted EMILY SCOTT FOOD Cornwall's most talked-about new restaurant TAKEOUT REVOLUTION A new dawn for dining? Where to eat, drink and stay in Lyme Regis STAYCATION SEASON Food MarApr 2021 Cover.indd 4 18/03/2021 10:39:06 September/October 2021 THE SOUTH WEST'S MOST SUSTAINABLE FOODS PAUL AINSWORTH Predicting a regional culinary revolution TRENCHERMAN'S COUNTRY great escapes STAYCATION GUIDE Where to eat, shop and stay in Dartmouth www.food-mag.co.uk FREE Food SepOct 2021 Cover.indd read more at www.food-mag.co.uk MICHAEL CAINES On the future of food and drink WEEKEND COOKING Recipes worth staying in for AGAINST THE ODDS 2020's unlikely restaurant openings November December 2020 Issue 181 COCKTAIL LOUNGE 2.0 LOCKED DOWN AND LOADED £3.50 FORAGE LIKE A PRO Make the most of the wild food on your doorstep WEEKEND COOKING Easter Sunday, sorted STAYCATION GUIDE Where to eat, shop and stay in Clifton Issue 189 March/April 2022 Read more at food-mag.co.uk FREE Take me home Lifting the lid on the world of honey Issue 192 September/October 2022 Read more at food-mag.co.uk FREE Take me home TO B OR NOT TO B What is a B Corp and why should you care? MATT MASON On his career-changing move to Winslade Manor STAYCATION GUIDE Where to eat, shop and stay in Frome The murky world of sourfaux COUNTERFEIT CARBS Food SepOct 22 Cover.indd 4 18/08/2022 14:26 Issue 191 July/August 2022 food-mag.co.uk FREE FOOD READER AWARDS Meet your 2022 winners VEG REVOLUTION A new era of barbecue STAYCATION GUIDE Where to eat, shop and stay in Bude 5 OF THE BEST ARTISAN ICE CREAMS BABY ICE ICE Become a Food Magazine subscriber and get every new issue delivered to your door for just £25 (6 issues) food-mag.co.uk/subscribe Treat yourself to a whole year of

WIN

a gourmet break in south Devon

For a unique boutique stay on the English Riviera, those in the know head to the award-winning Meadfoot Bay Hotel. Set in a quiet conservation area away from the bigger, brasher seafront hotels, this serene Victorian villa provides a tranquil grown-ups-only haven from which to explore Torquay and the south Devon coast.

Of course, visitors aren't just drawn to Meadfoot Bay for its location. The hotel is also home to one of the town's best-kept secrets: Brasserie at the Bay, a two AA rosette restaurant showcasing the region's top produce in a range of modern British dishes.

Heading up the kitchen is Callum Tasker, an ambitious chef who cut his culinary teeth with Simon Hulstone at Michelin-starred The Elephant. Expect polished dishes such as West Country scallops and Creedy Carver duck on a line-up that forgoes zany invention for well-executed classics. Guests can choose from à la carte or tasting menus, with vegetarian and vegan options available on request.

To enjoy the complete Brasserie at the Bay experience, book a night in one of the Meadfoot's contemporary guestrooms. Then, after a peaceful night's slumber, start the day with a hearty breakfast followed by a short three-minute stroll to Meadfoot Beach for some invigorating sea air.

THE PRIZE A seven-course tasting menu for two with wine flight, plus an overnight stay in a luxury suite with breakfast.

THE QUESTION In which Devon town will you find Brasserie at the Bay?

To enter, visit food-mag.co.uk/win See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is December 31, 2022.

brasserieatthebay.com

57 / WIN

GEORGINA BAKER

The head chef of Millside in Lyme Regis reveals her post-service fix and the podcast that get her through prep

WHICH KITCHEN ITEM COULDN'T YOU LIVE WITHOUT?

My trusty KitchenAid, which I was gifted when I left one of my first jobs. I'd also be lost without my chinois: I use it to create super-clear stocks, sauces and purees. There's nothing worse than a lumpy puree.

WHAT DO YOU LISTEN TO IN THE KITCHEN?

Generally, we don't listen to anything as I like to hear what's going on and communicate with the team without being distracted. However, in the morning I'll sometimes put on a podcast. Recently we've been listening to High Performance which features inspiring people, such as Marcus Wareing, talk about their careers.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT TO DATE?

Working for Elysian Collection in Switzerland. It's owned and run by two women, one of them being Angeline Davies (executive chef and commercial director) who trained me. The knowledge I picked up and cooking experiences I had opened so many doors and opportunities and set me up for my return to the UK.

YOUR MOST-READ RECIPE BOOK?

I love an Ottolenghi cookbook. His first, Ottolenghi: The Cookbook, is my favourite because it captures the unique style of his cooking when he emerged into the limelight. When I lived in London, I'd often visit his cafes for coffee and cake.

FAVOURITE PLACES TO EAT OUT?

I recently visited Lilac, sister venue to Harriet Mansell's Robin Wylde in Lyme Regis. The food was beautiful and displayed incredible use of British produce. In the South West, I also like Candlelight Inn in Chard – you can't beat its Sunday roast. Not long ago, I had an amazing dining experience at the Michelin-starred HIDE near Green Park in London. Perilla is also on my restaurant radar in the capital.

BEST STAYCATION SPOT?

London for the diverse food scene and to see family and friends. Alternatively, somewhere by the sea in Cornwall.

GUILTY FOOD PLEASURE?

Anything sweet. A couple of years ago I experimented with cutting out alcohol and have continued ever since. My post-service fix is now a handful of Haribo rather than a glass of wine.

DESERT ISLAND MEAL?

I could happily live off mussels for the rest of my life, so either classic moules marinière or a Thai-inspired version with turmeric and lemongrass. I'd also be tempted by a perfectly cooked steak. And, if presented with a mille-feuille, I'd be hard-pressed to turn it down.

themillside.co.uk

Last bite
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