Food Magazine September / October 2023

FOOD

Issue 198

Published August 2023 food-mag.co.uk foodmagazinesw food_mag foodmagazinesw

PUBLISHER

Salt Media ideas@saltmedia.co.uk

01271 859299 saltmedia.co.uk

EDITOR

Kathryn Lewis

EDITORIAL

Abi Manning

Melissa Morris

Kirstie Newton

Rosanna Rothery

Melissa Stewart

Selena Young

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Jo Rees

ADVERTISING

Nick Cooper

Claire Fegan

Jeni Smith 01271 859182

PUBLISHING

Charlotte Cummins

Tamsin Powell

ACCOUNTS

Richard Bailey

PHOTOGRAPHY

Matt Austin, Nina Dodd, Faydit Photography, John Hersey Studio, Girl Behind the Lens, Caitlin Mogridge, Sara Rudd, Sue Vaughton

COVER

Matt Austin for Sandford Orchards

THANKS

Thanks to our clients for supporting the magazine that supports the South West's food and hospitality industry.

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While every effort has been made to ensure that adverts, details and articles appear correctly, Food cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the contents of this publication. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of its publisher or editor.

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The humble apple is synonymous with autumn here in the South West. When the leaves start to drop and the nights draw in, apple pie, crumble and cakes are a source of cosy comfort.

However, the future of the British apple is uncertain. In this issue we dive into the subject with Barny Butterfield, founder of Sandford Orchards in Devon, who has embarked on a groundbreaking project to discover lost heritage varieties and protect the future of English orchards and cidermaking. Read all about it from page 10.

On the subject of indigenous ingredients, I catch up with exec chef Jack Bristow of Nancarrow Farm in Cornwall on page 16. Nancarrow has been a pioneer of authentic farm-to-table dining experiences in the South West, and Jack reveals what it's really like to cultivate and cook entirely off the land.

Those craving an autumn getaway can glean inspiration from Rosanna's roundup of places to eat, drink, stay and shop on Exmoor (page 22), or browse this issue's reviews

Hiwhich include the rather gorgeous new spa lodges at St Michaels Resort in Falmouth (page 28) and brunch at new Glastonbury opening FARA (page 30).

The 31st edition of our sister publication, the Trencherman's Guide, launches this month at a special lunch at Ugly Butterfly in Cornwall. To mark the occasion, we've teamed up with Adam Handling's restaurant to give away an afternoon tea experience for two, plus a copy of the new book (page 52). On the competition pages you'll also find the opportunity to bag a three-night break in a beautiful converted barn in Cornwall (page 54). Good luck!

Enjoy the issue.

Kathryn Lewis

Follow us on foodmagazinesw

5 of the best hidden hotels, page 36

Jane Dunn

Jane’s Patisserie

Winner

Start your culinary journey with us �

The Ashburton Chefs Academy is one of the UK’s leading private culinary schools and has trained hundreds of aspiring chefs to cook with skill, creativity and passion.

Chefs like Jane Dunn, who graduated from our fulltime, intensive Diploma in Culinary Arts programme before launching her career in food. Today she

Best Selling Author, Blogger & TV Chef www.AshburtonChefsAcademy.co.uk

has over 1.5 million followers on social media, has released two best selling ‘Jane’s Patisserie’ cook books and is now sharing her love for baking to millions on television.

Whether you want to become an accomplished chef, start a food business or launch a career in food, your journey starts in Ashburton.

Where to eat, drink, stay and shop on Exmoor. 28

Eating out across the region. 40 WEEKEND

Seasonal recipes from pro chefs and producers.

Up for grabs this issue: afternoon tea at Ugly Butterfly and three nights at a rural Cornish retreat.

Trencherman's Best Chef 2023 reveals what it's like to win the industry's most sought-after accolade.

Eat and drink like a local

The Food team share their seasonal picks from South West producers

1 Victuallers Special Edition 'Liquore Citrodora' Limoncello Liqueur, Devon

‘Eke out the last days of summer with a Limoncello Spritz made from this new release from Salcombe Distilling Co.,’ says editorial director Jo.

‘The Limoncello Spritz was this summer's answer to the Aperol Spritz and comprises a dash of limoncello topped with sparkling wine and soda, garnished with a sprig of thyme.

‘This special edition Liquore Citrodora is made in Devon at Salcombe's waterside distillery and is crafted from gin, lemon balm and peel. It's less syrupy than trad limoncello, resulting in a pleasingly grown-up quaff.’

50cl bottle £40

salcombegin.com

2

New Dawn Traders coffee, Cornwall

‘As the editor of the Independent Coffee Guide series, I'm already quite particular about coffee but this Colombian single-origin is quite something,’ says editor Kathryn.

‘If you don't know about New Dawn Traders, you really should. The Falmouth company connects with small-scale producers around the world and brings their goods to Cornwall via pollution-free sailboat. These coffee beans were sailed over from South America and then roasted in Falmouth by the pros at Yallah Coffee. Expect notes of red fruits, blackberries, brown sugar and nuts - delish!’

250g bag £9

newdawntraders.com

3 CULTJAR ferments and pickles, Somerset

‘If you worship at the altar of all things fermented, this range from CULTJAR is worth following,’ says features writer Abi.

‘Alongside classics like kimchi and curtido, you'll discover more unusual flavour fusions like daikon and shrimp, and jerusalem artichoke and horseradish. They're made at Worminster Farm using age-old methods – the jars even come with a warning of potential hissing and bubbling, which is a reassuring sign they are “proper” unpasteurised ferments.

‘I can't get enough of the fennel, orange and chilli pickle: the tenderness of the fennel matched with sweet and spicy notes strike a delicious balance. I'm also adding the ginger carrots to rocket and feta salads to give a whack of warmth and bright-purple vibrancy.’

Jars from £5.50 cultjar.co.uk

4 Harth Ginger Hot Chocolate, Somerset

‘A mug of silky hot cocoa hits different in the cooler months, and I'm delighted to have discovered Harth's luxurious hot chocolates ahead of winter,’ says features writer Selena.

‘The Harth chocolatiers hand-make micro batches of organic hot chocolate, chocolate bars and truffles at their workshop on the outskirts of Bath, drawing flavour inspiration from winter rituals, campfires and hedgerows. I recommend the warming ginger-spiked hot chocolate, as well as the hand-painted dark chocolate hazelnut truffles.

‘Sorry to be the one to bring up Christmas but the chocs are beautifully wrapped in eco packaging and make lovely pressies.’

400g hot chocolate bag £6.95

Box of six truffles £8.10

harthchocolate.com

The Hit List

The latest foodie news and events for your calendar

FEASTING

Bedruthan, located in the calming coastal oasis of Mawgan Porth, is a dreamy spot for a hygge-style supper. The hotel's Fire & Feast events (taking place on September 1, 14 and 29) spark an opportunity to sip cocktails and tuck into a seasonal meal with friends, before wrapping up in blankets and gathering round the firepit to toast marshmallows and watch the sunset. Tickets from £50.

2 | PINTS AND POTTERY

Ceramicists Naomi Stokes and Meredith Mason of Pottymouth Workshop in Bristol are collaborating with local brewery Wiper and True for an evening of pints and pottery at its taproom on September 6. During the workshop, attendees will learn how to craft their own mug while also sampling some top-barrel beer. Tickets cost £35, or £31.50 for students.

3 | CRACK(L)ING FINALE

Portscatho's The Hidden Hut will round off its summer feast nights with a slap-up pork supper on September 6. Pack tableware, tipples and cosy clothing and then make tracks to the remote Cornish coastal location for an all-weather alfresco feast of Curgurrell pork slow-roasted over applewood and served with crisp crackling, braised fennel and hispi cabbage, potato rosti and confit apple. Tickets cost £19.

4 | VINTAGE FLICKS AND FINE WINE

Bristol Film Festival hosts unique cinema experiences across the city year-round, but the wine-matched movie nights at Averys Wine Cellars in September are not to be missed. The collab evenings kick off with a pre-screen wine tasting then, as the classic film rolls, guests can enjoy themed wine pairings and a deli box of local cheeses, chutneys and crackers. Showings at the cellar include Roman Holiday on September 6, Kiss Me Kate on September 29 and Vertigo on September 30.

Tickets from £26.

5 | EAT YOUR WAY ACROSS EAST DEVON

Regional chefs, artisan producers and indie food and drink businesses have planned a smorgasbord of unique foodie events from September 9-24 for Taste East Devon Festival. Check the website for the full list of events, ranging from foraging experiences to vineyard tours and cocktail masterclasses.

6 | ALL ABOARD THE ACE

Hop aboard the Atlantic Coast Express (also known as ACE) on September 15 for its last Camel Trail Supper Club of the year. The vintage train carriage on the former railway line (now a leisure trail) between Padstow and Wadebridge hosts seven alfresco feasts over summer. Chef David Sharland conducts the kitchen and has planned a fabulous Cornish feed for the final supper club of 2023.

Tickets from £35.

7 | BATH BANQUET

Hit the honey-coloured city on September 22-24 to join The Great Bath Feast. The free-to-attend food and drink celebration will host a huge market filled with stalls from regional producers, alongside a chef's theatre where the likes of Ping Coombes, Richard Bertinet, Chris Cleghorn and Mark Hix will share their culinary secrets.

8 | SUP UNDER THE STARS

Round off summer in spectacular style with a starlit supper at Glove Factory Studios in Bradford-on-Avon. Its Summer Fire & Feast event on September 29 includes drinks round the firepit and a three-course meal cooked over coals by the chefs of on-site cafe Wild Herb at The Field Kitchen. Tickets cost £42.

9 | SLURPS UP!

Falmouth Oyster Festival returns to the coastal town on October 12-15 for more mollusc-themed mayhem. The festival celebrates the start of oyster dredging season with food stalls serving fresh Cornish seafood (including, you guessed it, native oysters), a shucking competition, Champagne bar, cookery demos from local chefs, an arts and crafts market and live music.

10 | DELICIOUS DAY OUT IN DARTMOUTH

Block out October 20-22 in your diary for a trip to Dartmouth Food Festival. The free harbourside event will feature workshops, tastings, competitions, demos and over 100 handpicked foodie exhibitors from the region.

11 | FARM-TO-TABLE SUPPER

Looking for a new supper club to sink your teeth into?

Castle Farm near Bath hosts a weekly Saturday evening feast at its rustic barn, which consists of a five- or sixcourse menu based on a monthly theme. The candlelit meal also includes matched wines, bespoke cocktails and a live-action view of the open kitchen. Tickets cost £58.

12 | NEW VINEYARD ALERT

South Devon is well established in the English wine scene as a region creating exceptional drops, but a new winery and cafe in Saunton is introducing the county's northern coastline into the fold. The winemakers at Saunton Vineyard (located a mile from the beautiful Saunton Sands beach) planted non-traditional grape varieties in 2019, and now visitors can taste the fruits of their labour and tour the vines following its summer launch.

Visit to sample the first release which includes low-intervention wines Longboarder (white), Wild Burrows (orange), Bay (rosé), Double Barrel (sparkling white), Crow (sparkling pet nat white) and Puts (sparkling pet nat rosé).

Heritage hunter

A double whammy of dwindling diversity and climate change could wreak havoc on our food systems, yet one Devon cidermaker is spearheading a pioneering project to rediscover lost apple varieties in a bid to save the future of English orchards

ever tasted before’

Wander around any British supermarket and you'll find more choice than ever when selecting what to have for dinner. We appear to be overwhelmed by options yet, in reality, food diversity is declining at a rapid rate. According to the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations: ‘Since the 1900s, some 75 per cent of plant genetic diversity has been lost as farmers worldwide have left their multiple local varieties and landraces for genetically uniform, high‑yielding varieties.’

The humble apple is a typical example of a plant whose diversity has dwindled. There are over 2,000 known varieties of British apple in existence, but the supermarket shelves usually display just four or five. Crowd‑pleasers like Pink Ladies, which dominate due to their flavour, texture and colour, are grown in huge quantities and also imported from overseas.

It's a trend that cidermaker Barny Butterfield of Devon's Sandford Orchards has observed with interest since he established his company in 2002 in the UK's oldest working cider mill. The mill is surrounded by ancient orchards and Barny has always been fascinated by heritage apple varieties, using them to create his award‑winning ciders (one of which scooped the Vintage Cider category trophy in the International Cider Challenge 2023). It was a chance encounter with an extraordinary apple that inspired him to undertake a groundbreaking project.

The diversity issue

Genetic diversity of the plants we eat is important for numerous reasons including nutrition and flavour, but the most important is our very survival.

As the climate changes, some of the crops we're most reliant on will become increasingly vulnerable to these environmental changes. A diverse array of plant species provides farmers with the option of crossbreeding and selecting varieties that are more resilient, ensuring a consistent food supply.

‘It was like nothing I'd

Barny at Sandford Orchards

Apple or potato?

Barny was on the production line checking for rotten apples as they passed on the conveyor belt when he noticed an apple variety he didn't recognise. With two decades of experience –most of the time he knows the variety and even the orchard each fruit comes from – Barny was intrigued.

‘I took a bite and it was like nothing I'd ever tasted – it had a unique bittersweet flavour,’ he says. ‘It was unusual because most apples look similar, but this was totally different – it looked more like a potato.’

Discovering a “new” variety of apple he hadn't come across before made Barny question how many other heritage species were lying undiscovered in British orchards. Historically, it's been expensive to genetically fingerprint apples and although archives such as Brogdale Collections and the National Collection of Wales list around 2,000 varieties, there was little research into what else might be out there.

Eager to find out more, Barny got in touch with Keith Edwards, a professor of cereal functional genomics at the University of Bristol. Keith had recently developed a way of genetically fingerprinting apples, accurately and inexpensively, based on the method used for grains and cereals.

‘I told Keith about the Henry's Potato [named after the owner of the orchard in which it was picked] and he said, “Let's go and test the whole orchard”,’ says Barny. ‘We ended up testing every tree in the orchard – and in three other orchards – and discovered over 30 varieties that hadn't previously been recorded.’

The project grew, and at the end of the duo's first phase of research they had genotyped around 1,200 trees – 280 of which didn't match anything on the existing records.

Orchard rivalry

It's not surprising that Barny and Keith discovered so many forgotten varieties, even in just a small part of Devon, as the county's rich cidermaking heritage makes it home to some of the country's oldest orchards.

Hundreds of years ago, apple farmers and cidermakers would probably have been secretive about interesting varieties and kept the best for themselves. Apple trees are grafted onto rootstocks and can't be grown commercially from seed (the ten seeds of a Cox's Orange Pippin, for example, won't yield ten Cox's Orange Pippin trees as, like humans, every apple tree is a unique mix of its parents' genetics), so it's unlikely the same variety would develop simultaneously elsewhere.

‘We're revealing the ancient secrets of orchards using CSI‑style technology’

‘We're revealing the ancient secrets of orchards using CSI‑style technology,’ says Barny.

‘A lot of the new varieties we've found are boring: unremarkable in texture, flavour and facility. However, there's also some incredibly interesting fruit out there.

‘One of our most interesting finds has been a super acidic apple. That's exciting for me as a cidermaker because acid is important for successful fermentation. This new apple has four times the acidity of a regular variety, so we can use fewer of the acidic apples and more of the varieties employed for flavour.’

Barny's plan is to taste the new varieties, find out how hard they are, how well they keep and how they press. However, his aim isn't simply to make delicious cider but also to identify apples with characteristics that can survive the South West's changing climate.

The climate conundrum

This is not just about future proofing, according to Barny, as climate change is already threatening some very important apple varieties.

‘Winter vernalization is important for a lot of fruit trees, including apples. Exposure to cold temperatures prevents them from flowering too early and enables them to set fruit properly.

‘The climate has already changed and will continue to do so, so we need to find apple varieties that can survive different environmental events. We're diving into ancient orchards, finding the unique trees and interrogating the fruit, making observations about how the tree has survived and its probable success. We're deliberately selecting orchards connected to long‑established cider businesses because they have diversity.

‘We need to retain genetic diversity in foodstuffs because we don't know when we might need that diversity in the future. Diversity allows for survival.’

Barny also believes a revival of these heritage varieties could help reduce the carbon footprint of the wider apple industry.

‘At the moment, supermarkets sell apples that are popular. These apples are picked when they're ready to eat and stored in huge electrically powered fridges to keep them fresh until they're needed.

‘There are apple varieties that are much harder when picked which can be kept in a cellar for months until they're ready to eat. We stopped growing many of these varieties because the electric fridges meant people could eat soft apples all year round but, from an agronomical and environmental point of view, that's bonkers.’

The future of apple farming

Barny and Keith continue to seek funding to help expand their research into heritage apple genomics in the UK. Over the next ten years, their goal is to build a database and have a collection that protects heritage apple varieties.

‘We've got a unique opportunity to look back into history and taste what people were eating and drinking hundreds of years ago,’ says Barny.

‘My dream is that in ten years' time I'll be able to walk into a supermarket and pick up an interesting heritage apple that's been grown locally.’

‘Diversity allows for survival’

GRASSROOTS GASTRONOMY

The popularity of authentic farm‑to‑table dining continues to gather momentum, yet one of its South West pioneers, Nancarrow Farm, has flown somewhat under the radar for almost a decade. Kathryn Lewis unearths the story of one of the region's best‑kept insider secrets

Coombeshead Farm near Launceston, The Collective at Woolsery, Crocadon near St Mellion; many of the most exciting restaurant openings of the past few years have been self‑sufficient concepts, where dining rooms are established on or near a farm that supplies the kitchen with just‑picked fruit and veg and own‑reared meat. They're passion projects of chefs who put provenance above everything and who want to step outside the restaurant status quo.

Many of these restaurants have garnered extensive media attention, yet Nancarrow Farm in Cornwall has mostly avoided the spotlight, instead quietly acquiring a following of discerning local diners such as leading chefs Paul Ainsworth and Simon Stallard.

According to Nancarrow's head chef Jack Bristow, its organic growth (literally and metaphorically – the 100‑acre farm is certified as organic) is testament to the team's objective to stick to their roots and think long term: ‘We want to ensure we remain true to our principles, and hope people will find that out for themselves’.

Located in a beautiful valley near Truro, the farm dates back to 1782 and is where nine generations of the same family have reared cattle and sheep. In 2011, current owners Stephen and Lucy Chamberlain embarked on a project to ensure the future of the farm and in 2014 flung open the barn doors to host food experiences. Nine years on it's evolved into a one of a kind events space and farm‑to‑table restaurant.

When chef Jack joined the team in 2015, he was influential in introducing feast nights and suppers at Nancarrow alongside its events schedule. A Fifteen Cornwall alumnus, Jack worked at Paul Ainsworth at No 6 and was on the Michelin career trajectory before making this unconventional career move. However, it was a natural step for the chef, who says: ‘I grew up in a farming family, so the idea of joining the dots from field to plate really excited me.

‘In addition to working at Fifteen, I gained experience as a butcher at Philip Warren in Launceston, so taking the position at Nancarrow enabled me to draw on my passions.’

Back in 2014, Nancarrow was an events space on a farm. In the years that have passed, the team have built an on site butchery and larder, a micro bakery, a productive no dig kitchen garden and luxury accommodation

that allows guests to immerse themselves in farm life. And, when lockdown struck, they took the opportunity to build an open plan kitchen.

‘Every year we build on what we've already created,’ Jack says. ‘Last year we planted 400 fruit trees in the orchard; we can't wait to see them come to fruition.’

Cooking over fire is one of the latest culinary trends, but for Jack it's been his preferred style since his days at Fifteen. ‘The draw is that there are so many levels of heat. It starts off very hot and intense, then slowly cools to create different sweet spots for different ingredients.’

Those ingredients are almost exclusively sourced from the fields that surround his kitchen. When Jack and team sit down to devise a menu, they first look to the farm to see what's going to be ripe and ready to

Stephen and Jack introducing a Midsummer feast

THE IDLE ROCKS SUPPER CLUB

Join the kitchen team for an intimate bespoke supper at the hotel and restaurant in St Mawes. Starting on September 21, the monthly supper club is a chance to chat with the chefs and taste new dishes before they appear on the menu.

eat soon, filling any gaps with produce from local producers who abide by a similar ethos. Even the charcoal they use in the wood fired kitchen is produced on site. In 2020, they installed an Exeter Retort kiln which turns wood from the farm into what Jack says is ‘the best and most ethical charcoal you could imagine’.

The creative chef describes the cooking at Nancarrow as ‘simple’, choosing not to over‑embellish and letting natural flavours take the lead.

‘A lot of the hard graft is done behind the scenes. For example, a carrot might be prepared simply but the hard work was done in the years before when we were nurturing the soil or making compost – food waste is even recycled on site using specialist hot composters,’ he says. While each team member has an official role, everyone chips in and gets involved in all manner of tasks on the farm. The diverse nature of the job gives Jack a unique perspective as a chef. The kitchen brigade are only in service two or three nights a week (rather than five or six, as in conventional restaurants) which means they get stuck into farm life and have been called on for all kinds of jobs, including helping deliver calves.

‘You see the whole journey through. It's the long and hard way round but it's the most rewarding,’ he adds.

It's a tough time for the hospitality industry, yet Nancarrow's dynamic nature allows the venue to pivot and respond to customer demand. In summer it's all about weddings, alfresco feast nights in the courtyard and farm suppers, while the winter diary is filled with Sunday lunches, intimate celebrations and guest chef nights.

Despite a growing number of restaurants following the farm‑to‑table ethos, Jack sees them as allies rather than competition.

‘A decade ago, the industry was quite secretive – chefs would hide recipes and keep things to themselves – but the nature of running a farm and kitchen means we're sharing knowledge and helping each other all the time. Just the other day I was messaging Dan [Cox, of Crocadon] about a caterpillar problem – his advice was to swipe them with a badminton racket!’

Nancarrow is all about letting nature take the lead, so the team don't have grand plans about what's next for the venue. ‘The dream is to remain present,’ says Jack. ‘We have young children, so we'd like to think that in 20 to 30 years we'll still be evolving and sharing this special place with them.’

nancarrowfarm.co.uk

‘IT'S THE LONG AND HARD WAY ROUND BUT IT'S THE MOST REWARDING’

Exmoor

Magical sightings of red stags, star-filled skies and a breathtaking coastline go hand in hand with Exmoor's exquisite dining spots, characterful pubs and unique places to stay, writes

Rosanna Rothery

Bittescombe Lodge & Deer Park

Where to stay

Exmoor's gorse-and-heather-strewn hills, Dark Sky Reserve status and coastal charm make it a superb playground in which to unleash your sense of adventure. If you're keen to explore the National Park's wild beauty, take advantage of its many alluring places to stay.

On the drop-dead-glamorous end of the spectrum is Bittescombe Lodge & Deer Park, which has ten architecturally exciting ensuite bedrooms. Everywhere the gaze falls in this lavish lodge – only available to rent in its entirety – there is a tableau of opulent furnishings, curated art and luxe living.

Those seeking rejuvenation can swim in the infinity pool, chill out in the spa, bask in the sauna or work out in the gym. Dinner is a decadent affair, where each menu is designed with the current occupiers in mind. Classically trained chef Nick Pyle gets creative with Bittescombe Estate's own vegetables, fruit, venison, rare-breed lamb and Iron Age boar. Guests can also fish on the estate: their catch can be barbecued within minutes of reeling it in and savoured with a glass of bubbly.

If you fancy pitching up in one of the UK's most beautiful medieval villages, The Luttrell Arms Hotel in Dunster oozes old-world charm. Guests can get everything from a massage to a new haircut in The Mews, linger over a cream tea in its attractive courtyard, cosy up next to a roaring fire in the bar, and dine on head chef Alan Woodhall's regionally inspired dishes in Psalter's Restaurant. History buffs will be in their element as the characterful hotel overlooks an ancient market hall and is a short stroll from Dunster Castle.

Should the romance of coastal moorland hold more appeal, The Old Rectory Hotel at Martinhoe, a mere 500 yards from the South West Coast Path, is the perfect hideaway. Owners Huw Rees and Sam Prosser are hot on providing the very best hospitality at their stylish Georgian boutique hotel and offer a variety of rooms and suites in The Old Rectory and its nearby Coach House and Coachman's Cottage. Their restaurant is only open to guests so Huw and Sam like to create a convivial house-party atmosphere, inviting residents to join them for pre-dinner drinks (there's a fantastic local gin offering and an award-winning wine list) and canapés. Menus are overseen by executive chef Thomas Frost, whose wealth of experience in Michelinstarred kitchens makes him a trustworthy pair of hands when it comes to crafting dishes from Exmoor and north Devon produce.

Those looking to experience the very essence of Exmoor will find a stride along the River Barle at Simonsbath is best followed by supper and an overnight stay at The Exmoor Forest Inn. The pub is part of the Exmoor Forest Estate and serves its own venison and grass-fed nativebreed beef and lamb, as well as fruit and veg from its kitchen garden. There's a choice of 11 ensuite rooms with pocket-sprung mattresses, deep baths and big showers (ideal after a day trekking the moor). There are also three holiday cottages and, in peak summer, a small campsite at the rear of the pub garden.

The Exmoor Forest Inn

The Luttrell Arms Hotel

Where to eat

Everyone longs to stumble across an Exmoor local serving the kind of dining delicacies they would willingly travel across heath and heather to devour. The recently renovated Bittescombe Inn (formerly Lowtrow Cross Inn) at Upton ticks that box and has been bestowed with new owners, a snazzy makeover and, crucially, an excellent chef.

Frenchman Olivier Certain, who has spent more than 25 years in the South West working in some of the best dining pubs in the region, crafts hearty dishes like toasted crumpet with wild mushrooms, parmesan and truffle. Seasonal produce such as wood pigeon, organic free-range chicken and venison are sourced from nearby Bittescombe Estate as well as from local fishermen, farmers and foragers. The 17th-century former farmhouse also has five cosy rooms allowing guests to postpone the drive home and explore a bespoke wine list curated by food and drink writer and broadcaster William Sitwell.

On the northern edge of the moors, Locanda on the Weir in Porlock is a chic restaurant with rooms and is known for its charming hospitality, intriguing set menus and beautiful boutique decor (co-owner Cindy Siu has a great eye for interior design). Dinner here is a special occasion, with guests invited for aperitifs by the fire before tucking into combos such as roebuck with mugolio, chanterelles and wild mushrooms. Each dish is artfully plated, with many showcasing the Italian heritage of head chef and co-owner Pio Catemario. Stay in one of four stylish rooms and explore Porlock Weir's cluster of galleries, cafes and pubs.

The Masons Arms at Knowstone is a surefire bet for those seeking moorside Michelin dining. The rural country pub, with its ancient bar area and bucolic views, is a charming retreat in which to enjoy owner and executive chef Mark Dodson's classic flavour combinations and elegant execution. Dishes fashioned from the likes of Exmoor beef fillet and pork belly feel perfectly in keeping when you're eyeing up views of rolling green countryside.

Also on the fringes of Exmoor National Park, another firm favourite among the foodie fraternity is Pyne Arms at East Down. Chef-owner Ellis Pannell offers a classic menu that balances creativity, quality and value.

For alternative epicurean experiences, Exmoor offers a few unique culinary adventures. At Sitwell Supper Club, William Sitwell mines his extensive contacts to pull in top chefs (previous invites have been taken up by Atul Kochhar, Anna Haugh and Adam Handling) to cook in his converted cowshed at Rooks Nest Farm. These sociable occasions are popular with locals and visitors, and provide a superb opportunity to experience cooking by the best of the best.

Those staying or living on Exmoor can also dial in personal chef Tim Zekki who will bring his Duende restaurant direct to their home. A personalised à la carte menu, or a tasting menu of five or seven courses, is crafted especially for your party with optional wine flight.

If scoffing delicious street food by the sea sounds appealing, Ziangs in Minehead offers fresh-from-thewok makan. Chin Taylor and his mother Choo draw on their family's heritage of authentic cooking from China, Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand in a changing menu of four or five mains. The best bit is that you can recreate the dishes at home by watching Chin and Choo's YouTube cooking channel, Ziang's Food Workshop.

Locanda on the Weir

The Masons Arms

Where to drink

Woods in Dulverton is something of an Exmoor institution, not least because it has walked away with The Good Pub Guide's National Wine Pub of the Year accolade for 11 years running. Landlord Paddy Groves is incredibly proud of his cave of bottles and loves to talk tipples. However, that's not the only thing this fantastic community pub does well. There's always cask beer, farm cider and unusual spirits on the go, as well as a traditional food menu fashioned around produce from Paddy's farm.

Where to shop

Shopping might not be the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Exmoor, but the National Park does have some fantastic little towns worth exploring for their indie shops.

Dunster is packed with indie outlets such as interiors shop Dunster Living. Run by Helsinki-born photographer Nina Dodd and her carpenter husband Andrew, it's a stylish showcase of British and Scandinavian artistry. Local foodies rave about Nina's pop-up Scandinavian Cakery (taking place on select weekends), for which she bakes cinnamon buns, cardamom buns, blueberry pies, quark pies and Swedish chokladbollar using recipes passed down by her mother. The bustling town of Dulverton is also a charming destination for a day of leisurely browsing. Alongside tea shops, pubs and gift shops are quirky finds like Seven Fables, a magical shop filled with British ceramics, jewellery, stained glass, prints and paintings, as well as quirky raku clocks made by Ian Roberts.

Minehead is home to a fantastic Farmers' Market (Fridays, 8.30am to 1pm) which makes for the perfect picnic-hunting destination. Head to The Parade and fill your totes with everything from golden-crust loaves and sumptuous cakes to artisan cheeses and free-range chicken.

If you can't get to Exmoor any time soon then fire up the fingers and do a spot of online shopping. Porlock Bay Oysters has a fantastic oyster gift box which includes its award-winning bivalves, a shucking knife, lemon, Tabasco sauce and everything you need to make classic mignonette.

Woods is one of a wealth of ancient atmospheric pubs dotted across the moors that provide liquid refreshment after a long ramble. Some, like Tarr Farm Inn, are located at iconic beauty spots and have local ales on tap and a delightful beer garden in which to enjoy them. The 16th-century grey-stone inn, tucked in a remote valley directly above the River Barle and ancient clapper bridge Tarr Steps, has plenty of cosy nooks in which to enjoy a glass of wine and a decent meal after a stroll along the riverbank.

Fans of R D Blackmore's Exmoor tale Lorna Doone might prefer to seek out the The Royal Oak Inn at Withypool. The author is said to have written part of the novel from the comfort of the inn's bar, which today is known for its extensive whisky list.

Exmoor Ales' cask and bottled beers are a quintessential part of moorland life and can be enjoyed at pubs across the National Park. The microbrewery at Wiveliscombe concentrates on craft ales, which range from light and golden to the deepest, darkest porter.

Dunster Living's cinnamon buns

Exmoor Ales

REVIEWS

St Michaels Resort

WHAT'S THE DRAW?

The opportunity to hop between the crystal‑clear waters of Gyllyngvase Beach (mere steps from the path that snakes through St Michaels Resort's lush gardens) and the hotel's huge hydrotherapy pool. Follow that with a fish‑forward feed at its restaurant, Brasserie on the Bay, and a glass or two of Cornish rosé and you'll soon be slipping into a long and restorative sleep in the cosy confines of one of the new spa garden lodges.

The four contemporary lodges opened at the start of summer and are a fabulous addition to St Michaels' collection of luxury rooms and suites. Perfect for couples looking for extra space and privacy (each includes a private terrace with copper tub and alfresco seating), they also meet the needs of parents who'll appreciate the additional room for young kids to run around.

WHO'S COOKING?

Cornish chef Darren Millgate trained at Cornwall College (where he now also teaches) and worked at some of the county's best hotels, including The Nare and Scarlet, before landing this exec role in 2019. He oversees a large brigade (15 and counting) who craft seasonal menus for both Brasserie on the Bay and the resort's more casual Garden Kitchen.

WHAT TO ORDER?

With incredible views over Gylly Beach and out to sea, the tables that line Brasserie on the Bay's expansive windows are naturally the most popular so it's worth booking an early or late supper to avoid the rush for ringside seats.

There's something immensely gratifying about tucking into a fillet of fish while gazing over the waters in which it was caught. We couldn't resist the catch of the day, a sizeable slab of Cornish sea trout served on a salad of bitter leaves, seaweed, parsley‑butter‑lavished potatoes and tangy gherkins and capers.

Darren and team know their way around a fish and the fillet was impeccably cooked, with crisp skin and yielding flaky flesh. A portion of pan‑fried Newlyn hake was also expertly turned out, and partnered with supple parmentier potatoes, red pepper puree, salty samphire and a fragrant herb oil.

The Brasserie isn't all about fish, however. We preceded the mains with a starter of balsamic‑marinated beef, a contemporary take on classic carpaccio, comprising super‑thin slices of soft West Country beef layered with truffle‑laced rocket, tart cornichons and garlic crisps.

A very good wine list complements the food menu, and Knightor Winery's Cornish Carpe Diem Rosé was the perfect companion for this late‑summer supper. Bright and bold notes of raspberry and citrus were a brilliant counterpart to the fatty sea trout and, at just 11 per cent ABV, a light and refreshing drop.

FOOD'S TIP

There are two versions of the seasonal menu – one served on odd dates in the month and another on evens – which makes dining at the restaurant on both evenings of a two‑night stay a much more interesting proposition.

stmichaelsresort.com

A set of new luxury lodges has elevated the dip and dine experience at this waterfront hotel and spa, says Kathryn Lewis Gyllyngvase Beach, Falmouth, Cornwall, TR11 4NB

FARA

Plead guilty to gluttony at this new contemporary cafe within Glastonbury's former police courts, suggests Kathryn Lewis

The Old Police Court, Benedict Street, Glastonbury, Somerset, BA6 9EX

WHAT'S THE DRAW?

All‑day brunching with a Mediterranean‑meets‑Middle‑Eastern leaning. Friends and colleagues Daniel Nixon and Dominic Bell met while working in the hospitality industry and FARA, which opened in May this year, is their first collaborative project. Their aim was to create an unforgettable dining experience, and when the town's old police courts became available they knew they'd found the perfect setting for their unusual venture.

From the outside, the historic grey‑stone building looks small and dark, but step through its grand arched doorway to discover a dynamic, bright and inviting space. A sprawling skylight above the bar drenches the dining room in sunlight, while white walls hung with vibrant artwork create the illusion of roominess. There's also a garden for alfresco brunching.

FARA is already a popular haunt of locals who stop by for well‑prepared Easy Jose coffee (roasted nearby in Shepton Mallet) and Lievito Bakery almond croissants (delivered daily from Castle Cary). However, its menu of classic and not‑so‑classic brunch plates makes it worth a trip for out‑of‑towners.

WHO'S COOKING?

Head chef Dominic works his magic in the kitchen while front‑of‑house whizz Daniel oversees a bewitching team.

Dominic's style of cooking is influenced by Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and Modern European cuisine, yet the abundance of impeccable produce on his doorstep means each dish is also steeped in its Somerset surroundings.

WHAT TO ORDER?

The FARA menu is split into breakfast, sweet and signature dishes, but it's worth skipping over the first two sections and heading straight to Dominic's most creative work – unless you really can't resist the call of a full English flush with the local butcher's piggy bits.

We followed Daniel's recommendations and dug into the green shakshuka (herb‑laced seasonal greens bathed in butter, topped with pickled fennel, Somerset feta and poached eggs) and mushrooms on sourdough (a thick slab of Lievito sourdough piled with baharat‑spiced mushrooms, chermoula‑doused seasonal greens and an outlandishly delicious miso cashew cream). Each mouthful was packed with flavour without being overpowering, while the freshness of the locally sourced ingredients was discernible in the dishes' vibrant colours.

If you can squeeze in a second course (servings are generous), select a slice of something sweet from the counter. All the cakes are baked by Daniel's other half and we continued the Middle Eastern vibe with a wedge of Persian rose sponge and a tahini‑drizzled brownie.

FOOD'S TIP

While brunch is the headliner at FARA, the cafe also has a restaurant feel thanks to its cocktail and wine list. Bar manager James Mills draws on his Hawksmoor and Som Saa experience to fashion offbeat cocktails and curate an off‑piste list of memorable pours. Try pairing the green shakshuka with a Bloody Mary made with Wyborowa Vodka, fino sherry, harissa‑spiced tomato and pickled cucumber.

@faraglastonbury

Heron Farm

Abi Manning winged her way to Heron Farm near Honiton and discovered a laid‑back lunch spot among the vines

Weston, Honiton, Devon, EX14 3NZ

WHAT TO ORDER?

WHAT'S THE DRAW?

An idyllic spot for lingering over lunch, relishing the fact that the glass of wine you're sipping was made with grapes grown mere metres from your table.

Since Heron Farm launched as a vineyard in 2018, it has embedded itself within its community to the extent that it draws crowds well beyond the wine curious. Families assemble for the accessible kids' menu, play area, fairy garden and Baby Sensory sessions; wellness seekers drop in for Pilates classes and nourishing food; friends gather for tapas evenings, live music and comedy nights; and tourists stop by for lunch on the sunny deck or at a table amid lush planting. The gathering place for this eclectic community is a striking wood‑clad, plough‑shaped building (featured in an episode of Grand Designs), which houses the Vineyard Kitchen cafe and restaurant along with a small shop.

WHO'S COOKING?

Chef Toby Hembury has headed up the kitchen crew for the past year. His attractively plated dishes utilise fresh, seasonal ingredients cultivated in the kitchen garden (wander round it before lunch to see the produce being grown) or sourced from sustainably minded local producers.

The Vineyard Kitchen is a daytime‑only affair, with a lunch menu that majors on creative ciabatta sarnies, seasonal salads and a selection of more substantial dishes. A mezze board for one delivered highlights in the form of home‑pickled veg and a trio of fresh dips: rose‑harissa hummus, baba ganoush and muhammara. Another dish saw chestnut mushroom and smoked garlic arancini paired with a tomato and lime salsa and zingy rocket pesto. Both were a visual feast of greens, purples and oranges, adorned with floral garnishes.

From a list of four classic puds, the chocolate mousse with honeycomb, chocolate crumb and strawberries provided rich indulgence when scoffed from a mini Kilner. Quality post‑lunch caffeination came courtesy of Owens Organic Coffee in Ivybridge.

Any meal here would be incomplete without a bottle of homegrown wine. We tried Heron Farm's White 2021 vintage, which won a Silver Medal at the 2022 WineGB Awards. It's a delightful example of a South West white and is made from Seyval Blanc grapes grown on‑site and at a partner vineyard in Somerset. Follow the vineyard trail after lunch, glass in hand, to discover the provenance of your drink.

Don't rush away before browsing the lifestyle products, food and drink items (including Heron Farm's own wines, Ma La Gin and apple juice), toys, plants and local crafts at the shop.

FOOD'S TIP

Book onto a Saturday vineyard tour (or arrange a private one), running between April and October, to visit the vines and orchards and discover the process of growing grapes in this region – before tasting the fruits of the farm's labours.

heron‑farm.co.uk

The Mole Resort

Under new management, this north Devon retreat (formerly Highbullen Hotel) specialises in great‑value family‑friendly dining in a lively setting, writes

Rosanna Rothery

Chittlehamholt, Umberleigh, North Devon, EX37 9HD

WHAT'S THE DRAW?

Located amid the bucolic fields of north Devon, The Mole Resort's manor house and eco lodges are a magnet for both families and couples thanks to their peaceful surroundings, child friendly entertainment, affordable dining and opportunities for indulgence (such as soaking in a hot tub on your private balcony).

The resort's family friendly approach is also appreciated by non residents, especially those with intergenerational dining parties. Its relaxed vibe and crowd pleasing menu is nothing short of a relief when there are a variety of ages and appetites to be catered for.

Cellar's Restaurant is nestled in the unique Arts and Crafts era manor house and offers two distinct types of experience: a table by huge picture windows in the conservatory area will guarantee you sprawling views across the estate to lush Devon countryside, while the original cellars are full of secret nooks for more intimate dining. A playlist of feelgood hits from all eras and friendly service are conducive to everyone feeling comfortable and having a good time.

WHO'S COOKING?

Executive chef Stephen Walker is pretty strict when it comes to ingredient selection and likes to foster relationships with local farmers, ensuring all his dishes are crafted with sustainable principles in mind. A good proportion of the produce he procures even comes from the fields the restaurant overlooks.

WHAT TO ORDER?

A line up of small plates is designed to appeal to those who want to kick off with a starter, share dishes with fellow diners or satiate a modest appetite. Retro favourites such as crispy prawns with a lobster marie rose and smoked paprika sauce sit alongside popular modern day bites such as aubergine and courgette tempura.

Major cravings are best satisfied with the likes of Exmoor sirloin steak, a chargrilled Holsworthy pork and apple burger, a sourdough pizza or pasta dishes such as roasted tiger prawn pappardelle with lobster bisque and heritage tomatoes. There are also plenty of traditional classics to explore: on our visit the pork fillet and smoked pancetta wellington turned out to be a very pleasing example of its kind. Puddings provide a rich rush of gratifying sweetness to both the palate and the soul at the end of the meal and include a duck egg tart with peach, and a Belgian chocolate fondant.

The option to follow a set two or three course section of the menu makes thrifty sense if you have a large group to feed or are dining out several nights in a row.

FOOD'S TIP

Get there early to enjoy a pre dinner tipple. A Mole IPA or local spirits such as the resort's own tequila, gin and rum (distilled in Somerset) can be enjoyed in Cellar's Bar. Alternatively, pop into the Library Bar or, in summer, the terrace for cocktails and mocktails.

themoleresort.co.uk

Want to escape the grind and go off-grid for a couple of days of feasting, resting and reconnecting? We've handpicked five of the region's best off-the-beaten-track retreats

1 The Bradley Hare, near Warminster

Those seeking an idyllic retreat in quaint English countryside will find it at this refined Wiltshire pub with rooms.

Nestled within the grounds of the Duke of Somerset's estate, The Bradley Hare combines traditional hospitality with contemporary interiors and a welcoming village atmosphere. It's the kind of place where you can play a post‑walk game of Scrabble by the fire with a pint of local ale before scrubbing up for a smart dinner in the dining room.

The kitchen team work closely with Maiden Bradley Community Garden, resulting in a constantly evolving menu brimming with seasonal ingredients. Dishes such as tagliatelle with cavolo nero, egg yolk and Somerset pecorino are simple in composition yet complex in flavour.

Fully replete, retire to one of the gorgeous bedrooms (designed by ex‑Soho House design director James Thurstan Waterworth) for post‑dinner slumber among 18th‑century antiques and elegant fabrics.

thebradleyhare.co.uk

2 Lewtrenchard Manor, near Okehampton

If disconnecting from reality (read: phone, email and the internet) is your definition of an off‑the‑beaten‑track break, may we suggest temporarily relocating to a different era altogether via a trip to Lewtrenchard Manor in the wilds of mid Devon.

Crossing the threshold of this Jacobean manor house is like taking a step back in time. Wood‑panelled walls, stucco ceilings, ancestral portraits and antique furniture transport guests to a bygone era, yet there are also touches of modern luxury that make it a wonderfully comfortable place to relax and reconnect with someone special.

Spend the day exploring the countryside that envelops Lewtrenchard and then reward your step count with an exquisite dinner at its Trencherman's‑rated restaurant. Many of the ingredients are plucked from the manor's walled kitchen garden by head gardener Martin. lewtrenchard.co.uk

3 Wild Thyme & Honey, near Cirencester

The Cotswolds is crammed with charming little hotels hidden down winding country lanes, so let us help you whittle away the options by recommending this boutique country inn near Cirencester.

Since opening in 2022, Wild Thyme & Honey has featured in The Times' Hottest New Hotel Openings and Top 50 Hotels lists, and gained widespread attention for its creative renovation and beautiful styling. Guests wishing to make their Instagram followers green with envy will be overwhelmed by gorgeous interior options for the backdrop of their holiday snaps.

Wild Thyme & Honey's 24 bedrooms are connected to its own cosy pub, The Crown at Ampney Brook. The 16th‑century inn is where guests can enjoy a hearty breakfast, post‑walk pints at the rustic bar and a seasonal supper in the dining room or riverside courtyard.

wildthymeandhoney.co.uk

4

Two Bridges Hotel, Dartmoor

Dartmoor's undulating hills and dense woodland hide all manner of mystical secrets, but potentially one of the most delicious discoveries to be made is the Two Bridges Hotel near Princetown.

The historic hotel's restaurant has a longstanding reputation for crafting high‑quality seasonal food. Executive chef Mike Palmer turns out exceedingly good multi‑course menus, crafted with ingredients sourced from the area's best producers. Smoked Dartmoor beef scrumpet, for example, is served with blue cheese, pickled onion and watercress.

Two Bridges' cosy interiors, friendly staff and location at the end of one of the moor's most popular walking routes make it a great base from which to explore the area. After an all‑weather stomp, put your feet up in front of the fire and treat yourself to a pint of local Jail Ale.

twobridges.co.uk

5 Thornbury Castle, near Bristol

Hidden in plain sight in the pretty Gloucestershire market town of Thornbury, this hotel and restaurant is steeped in history. It was once the property of King Henry VIII and, although he only spent a few nights at the castle, it's almost frozen in a time when the Tudors holidayed amid its towers and grounds.

Relaxing in a suite dressed with rich fabrics, royal portraits and four‑poster beds, you couldn't feel further away from the modern world of social media, to‑do lists and rolling news coverage. There are a few contemporary touches, such as TVs and Nespresso machines, but if you want to go full 16th century they can easily be switched off.

Within the regal, wood‑panelled dining room, executive chef Carl Cleghorn serves three‑AA‑rosette dishes using ingredients from the castle's own walled garden. The six‑course seasonal tasting menu is a journey of gastronomic discovery and features elegant compilations such as Orkney scallop with kohlrabi, lovage and shellfish bisque.

thornburycastle.co.uk

The Bradley Hare

The Odd Mulled Syrup Company

Mulled drinks aren't solely the domain of December, declares Abi Manning, after discovering a method that makes it a breeze to whip up a batch of sweet and spicy autumnal sips

WHAT IS IT?

A syrup that takes the faff out of making mulled drinks.

Faye and Yvan Williams, formerly of The Oddfellows in Exeter, originally created the syrup as a way of producing large quantities of mulled wine and cider at their pub and during events. Now they're producing it in pouches so home mullers can craft their own aromatic drinks throughout the cooler months.

It's proving a success: they've already bagged a Food Drink Devon Gold award, a Great Taste star and Taste of the West Gold.

WHY?

Because autumn's approaching and it's time to perfect those drinks recipes for cosy nights in with friends. Consider this your quick‑fire solution to stoke the warming vibes as the evenings draw in. It's easier (and more cost‑effective) than crafting a round of cocktails, creates more of a sense of occasion than simply opening a bottle of red, and frees you up to natter with your pals rather than riffling through the spice rack or slaving over the cocktail shaker.

THE LOW‑DOWN

Since the syrup contains such concentrated flavour, opening the pouch provides a heady waft of seasonal spices which sets the scene nicely.

You may miss the tableau of cinnamon sticks and cloves bobbing in the pan, yet the ease of this method makes it a worthy alternative. Simply add a measure of syrup (50ml per 70cl bottle of red wine or 50ml per litre of cloudy cider) to the pan and warm thoroughly. I erred on the side of extra punchiness and opted for additional syrup, so play around with the measures to suit your taste.

The result was sweet, gently spiced yet classic mulled wine and cider. The serving suggestion recommends adding an orange slice (to wine) or grapefruit (to cider), which enhances the citrus notes and balances the syrupy sweetness – I'd consider lobbing a few slices in the pan next time for further zing.

COST

£7.50 for a 250ml sachet of syrup – a decent price considering one sachet will make approximately five bottles‑worth of mulled wine or 5l of mulled cider. Pick it up at Devon farm shops such as Darts Farm, Greendale, Millers and Powderham, as well as at Quicke's, Bon Gout Deli and various markets.

RECOMMEND TO A FRIEND?

Yes. Once they see how simple it is to make, they'll also be employing it as their seasonal shortcut.

WEEKEND COOKING

Chorizo brioche with onion compote

From Tom Hannon, chef-owner of The Rising Sun in Truro

Makes 8-10 rolls or 1 small loaf

Ring moulds 8-10

For the dough: Strong bread flour 300g

Caster sugar 25g

Fresh yeast 10g

Salt 6g

Free-range eggs 3 medium Butter 150g, room temperature

For the onion compote: Onions 2 medium, peeled and sliced Chorizo 130g, sliced into matchsticks

Thyme 10 sprigs, leaves picked Rapeseed oil 1 tbsp Parmesan 50g, grated

For the egg wash:

Free-range egg 1 medium Milk a splash

1 For the dough: using an electric mixer, combine the dry ingredients.

2 Add the eggs and mix until incorporated, then add the butter and mix again.

3 Once the dough has come together, remove the bowl from the mixer and cover with a damp cloth. Leave it to rest in the fridge for 5 hours.

4 For the onion compote: in a pan over a medium heat, sweat the onion, chorizo and thyme leaves in the rapeseed oil, constantly stirring until the onions are soft and light golden brown. Remove from the pan and place on kitchen paper to drain off the excess oil and cool.

5 Remove the dough from the bowl and place on a clean surface. Roll out the dough to approximately 5mm thick.

6 Spread the cold onion compote evenly over the dough, then sprinkle with grated parmesan.

7 Roll the dough into a sausage shape (think jam roly-poly). If you want to make a loaf, leave in this shape. To make individual rolls, cut into 5cm slices. Place the portions into greased ring moulds so the swirl of the onion compote is on the top.

8 For the egg wash: whisk together the egg and milk, then use it to brush the top of the dough.

9 Put the moulds, or loaf, on a baking tray and cover with a damp cloth. Place in a warm dry spot until the dough has doubled in size. This will take 1 hour.

10 Bake the brioche in the oven at 180˚C / gas 4 for 16 minutes. Serve warm with lashings of salty butter.

‘This rich brioche makes a decadent treat for breaking bread before a meal, or as a loaf to pull apart and enjoy with a stew or casserole,’ says Tom

therisingsuntruro.co.uk

Nepalese celeriac and potato curry

Recipe by Sarah Gurung, co-founder of Yak Yeti Yak in Bath

Serves 4

Vegetable oil 60ml

Banana shallots 2, peeled and finely sliced

Ginger ½ tbsp, finely grated

Garlic ½ tbsp, finely grated

Ground chilli 1 tsp

Ground turmeric ½ tsp

Ground cumin 1½ tsp

Ground coriander 1½ tsp

Salt 1½ tsp

Tomatoes 2 medium, finely chopped

Celeriac 350g, peeled and cut into bite-size pieces

Salad potatoes 300g, peeled and quartered

Fresh dill a handful, finely chopped

1 Heat the oil in a wide-based pan until it's mediumhot. Add the shallots and let them sizzle for 1 minute, stirring to prevent them from burning. Add the ginger, garlic, chilli, turmeric, cumin, coriander and salt and continue to stir.

2 When the spices start to stick to the base of the pan, add the tomatoes and stir well to lift the spices from the base.

3 Add 200ml of water, then stir again to lift the caramelised tomato from the base and continue to cook until the oil starts to separate into rivulets.

4 Add an additional 200ml of water to the sauce and bring it to the boil. Add the celeriac and potatoes, stirring well to ensure they are covered with the sauce, then reduce the heat a little and place a lid on the pan. Cook for 15-20 minutes until the vegetables are soft but retain bite.

5 Remove the curry from the heat and allow it to stand for 2-3 minutes before stirring in the dill. Serve with boiled rice or roti.

yakyetiyak.co.uk

THE DRINKS CURATOR

Drinks pro Susy Atkins reveals her seasonal pick of the pack

Casual cafe recipes to make at home

PEBBLEBED SPARKLING ROSÉ 2018

Pebblebed Vineyard near Topsham in Devon is a super spot for a winery visit and tasting, and this dry, whistle-clean sparkling rosé is my standout favourite from an excellent range.

There are elegant notes of raspberry, rhubarb and rosewater from the two grapes in the blend, Seyval Blanc and Rondo, and four years of bottle ageing with the yeast has left a light creaminess. Delectable with fresh seafood.

£29

dartsfarm.co.uk

out now

Easy-to-make dishes from some of the UK’s best cafes

£20. Order now at

indycoffee.guide

Blackened mackerel with tomato and coriander salsa

Recipe by Mark Hix, chef-owner of The Oyster & Fish House in Lyme Regis

Serves 4

For the salsa:

Tomatoes 4 firm, chopped

Spring onion 1 large, finely chopped

Fresh coriander a handful, chopped

Olive oil 2-3 tbsp

Lime 1, juice and zest

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the blackened mackerel:

Paprika 1 tsp

Ground dried thyme 1 tsp

Cayenne pepper 1 tsp

Finely ground black pepper 1 tsp

Finely ground white pepper 1 tsp

Garlic powder 1 tsp

Ground cumin 1 tsp

Olive oil

Mackerel 2 large or 4 small, filleted and boned

1 For the salsa: in a bowl, mix all the ingredients together and season to taste.

2 For the blackened mackerel: in a bowl, combine the spices and then transfer to a plate.

3 Heat a splash of oil in a non-stick frying pan. Dip the flesh side of the mackerel fi llets in the spices, then fry flesh-side down on a high heat for 2-3 minutes until it starts to blacken. Turn the fi llets over and cook for another minute or so, depending on thickness.

4 Serve the fish on warmed plates with a spoonful of the salsa.

theoysterandfishhouse.co.uk

‘Mackerel is a beautiful fish but needs to be really fresh,’ says Mark. ‘It's great at taking on flavours and spice is a really good fit, especially with the freshness of the tomato salsa.’

fromfarmtotable

Notes from a Michelin kitchen

Life at the restaurant has been crazy – in the best possible way – since we were awarded a Michelin star in March. It's been amazing to meet so many locals who've eaten with us for the first time, as well as diners from further afield who tour the UK's starred establishments.

now serving the bespoke blend as espresso and pourover in the restaurant.

While the Voyager team were showing us around the roastery, I spotted a bag of green unroasted coffee beans (pictured top). They have a really grassy fragrance, so I pocketed a few to experiment with in the kitchen. The result was an altogether different sauce that I plan to pair with venison and game this autumn.

CHAMPAGNE SUPPERS

At the Michelin ceremony, I was warned by other chefs such as Tom Kerridge that having a star comes with enhanced scrutiny and complaints, but my experience so far has been largely positive. I've already got my sights set on the next milestone for the restaurant but, in the meantime, the team and I will continue to push consistency and creativity.

STAR-QUALITY COFFEE

We recently made a trip to Voyager Coffee in Buckfastleigh to create a bespoke roast to serve at Àclèaf. My brief for the roasters was to devise a coffee reminiscent of acorns and oak leaves, that was smooth, fragrant and a bit different. They absolutely nailed it and we're

At Boringdon, we have a longstanding relationship with Champagne Laurent-Perrier and a few weeks ago I had the chance to try their Grand Siècle. On October 6, we'll host a special Grand Siècle supper where guests will be able to sample this exclusive Champagne and enjoy matched dishes and wines. I'm still finalising the menu, but am playing with the idea of duck terrine with quince, and scallops with caviar and walnut foam.

WELLNESS SUITES

After months of hard work behind the scenes, it was amazing to launch our new wellness rooms recently. The 12 rooms and two suites connect to our award-winning Gaia Spa, and are the perfect base for a relaxing and luxurious gourmet break where the chill-out is as good as the food.

acleaf.co.uk

Chef Scott Paton provides a peek behind the pass of his restaurant Àclèaf at Boringdon Hall, near Plymouth

All fired up

From warming soups to succulent flame-grilled steaks, there's nothing a wood-fired cook stove can't handle. And with stylish designs and cash-saving credentials, it's no surprise these versatile appliances are enjoying a spike in popularity

‘We've certainly seen a significant rise in sales of wood-burning cook stoves, particularly during the fuel crisis,’ says Andrew Baker, managing director of Devon stove and range-cooker specialists Rangemoors.

Esse was among the first brands to recognise the appeal of combining the charm and warmth of a wood burner with the superb cooking capabilities of a traditional range. Launched in 2004, its Ironheart model (pictured) is now a signature cooker in its own right, having earned great cachet in the restaurant industry: River Cottage in Devon is a firm fan, as is chef and food writer Gill Meller who cooks on a wood-fired Esse at home.

‘The Ironheart has a decent-size oven and the firebox takes a little grill,’ says Andrew. ‘It means you can cook right in the flames, producing that authentic flame-cooked flavour.’

In recent years, concerns over climate change, coupled with the rise in fossil fuel prices, have seen many manufacturers turning their attention to creating versatile wood-fired stoves.

This new generation produces little carbon dioxide, uses a renewable and reliable fuel, heats homes efficiently, uses that same heat to cook delicious meals, and provides instant visual warmth to any setting.

Another popular choice offered by Rangemoors is the Haven, made on the Isle of Wight by Charnwood. It has a generous hotplate, and an oven with integrated thermometer to allow temperature regulation and greater cooking accuracy.

Those looking to explore this new style of cosy cooking and heating should check out Rangemoors' collection of high-quality wood-fuelled and conventional cooker options. Its Devon HQ showcases respected names including Rangemaster and La Cornue, and has cooking, heating and style options to suit any kitchen and lifestyle.

‘These stoves are beautifully made and energy efficient,’ says Andrew. ‘The ability to heat your home and cook simultaneously appeals to those who want to be less reliant on the National Grid.’ rangemoors.co.uk

Festival of Flavours

Sat 7 - Sun 8 Oct

Celebrate the bounty of autumn and Rosemoor’s heritage apple harvest with a weekend of cookery demonstrations, expert talks, garden tours, live music, a food and craft market and delicious, seasonal meals from the Garden Restaurant.

Entry included with garden admission – members go free. Your visit supports our work as a charity.

a copy of the new Trencherman's Guide, plus afternoon tea at Ugly Butterfly

The 31st edition of the South West's original dining guide launches on September 25 at a very special lunch at Ugly Butterfly Restaurant & Bar in Cornwall, cooked by some of the UK's leading chefs.

The Trencherman's Guide has directed discerning diners to the region's best restaurants since 1992, with a new edition updated each year to ensure the quality remains tip-top (restaurants must meet strict criteria for inclusion) and to welcome new openings into the exclusive club. The soon-to-be-launched 31st volume features a wealth of fresh additions from Cornwall to the Cotswolds, making it a passport to great dining for the year ahead.

To mark the occasion, the Trencherman's publishers are teaming up with Great British Menu Champion of Champions Adam Handling and the crew at Ugly Butterfly to host a delectable book-launch lunch. Adam will be joined in the kitchen by Harriet Mansell of Robin Wylde in Dorset, Guy Owen of St Enodoc Hotel in Cornwall and Nicholas Balfe of Holm in Somerset.

We're giving Food readers the opportunity to be the first to get their hands on a copy of the newly published guide, plus afternoon tea at Ugly Butterfly.

With stunning floor-to-ceiling views over Carbis Bay, Adam's restaurant near St Ives is a dreamy setting for a thoroughly Cornish afternoon tea experience. The renowned chef has devised a thrilling menu of savouries, sandwiches and sweets, which takes guests on a journey around Cornwall and its hero producers. Paired with locally grown Tregothnan tea or, for a supplement, a glass of Champagne or free-flowing bubbles for 90 minutes, it should be on every gourmet's hit list.

THE PRIZE A copy of the new Trencherman's Guide, plus an afternoon tea experience for two at Ugly Butterfly Restaurant & Bar in Cornwall.

THE QUESTION Which edition of the Trencherman's Guide launches this September?

To enter, visit food-mag.co.uk/win

See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is October 31, 2023.

trenchermans-guide.com uglybutterfly.co.uk

Pre-order your copy of the new guide (£9.99) now by scanning the QR code.

Big in local flavour. Low in food miles.

The very best of Cornwall’s farms, fields and waters brought to the plate.

a three-night retreat in rural Cornwall

Set in Restormel Castle's walled gardens in the beautiful Fowey Valley, The Duchy of Cornwall Holiday Cottages' six barn conversions are idyllic spots in which to spend a few days when the leaves change colour and the holiday crowds thin out.

Autumn is the perfect season to visit this pocket of Cornwall. Woodland walks are framed by burnt saffron and golden hues, the beaches are quiet and the sea still warm enough for a dip. Popular dining destinations in the nearby foodie hub of Fowey even have last-minute table availability for the first time in months.

The Duchy of Cornwall's collection of selfcatering holiday cottages are a stone's throw from its stylish nursery, store and restaurant, and offer comfortable luxury after a day of autumnal excursions. Each of the courtyard barn conversions has a wood-burning stove so you can cosy up in front of the fire and revive chilly fingers and toes. Guests also have access to the estate's indoor heated pool, sauna, steam room and games room, so there's plenty to keep you entertained if the weather rains off outdoor activities.

While the cottages have fully equipped kitchens, those wanting a break from cooking

duties should head over to The Orangery, the new restaurant at the Duchy of Cornwall Nursery. Breakfast is served until 11.15am and offers the likes of the buttermilk pancake stack with smoked local streaky bacon, Canadian maple syrup and fried egg, and eggs florentine with mornay sauce and steamed greens on a thyme scone. At lunchtime, the talented chefs craft seasonal dishes such as seafood pappardelle with Cornish pollock, salmon and king prawns.

THE PRIZE A three-night break (for up to four people) in one of The Duchy of Cornwall Holiday Cottages' Restormel courtyard barn conversions, including a two-course lunch at The Orangery.

THE QUESTION What's the name of Duchy of Cornwall Nursery's new restaurant?

To enter, visit food-mag.co.uk/win

See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is October 31, 2023.

duchyofcornwallnursery.co.uk

Visit our Winkleigh Autumn Warmer Event! 8th & 9th September. 10am - 4.30pm

Cookery demonstrations throughout the two days with our guest chefs from ESSE and Morso.

Range cookers from

ANDREW SWANN

The Castle at Taunton's head chef reveals how it felt to receive a Trencherman's award and the flame-cooked feast he'd prepare if he was stranded on a desert island

WHICH KITCHEN ITEM COULDN'T YOU LIVE WITHOUT?

I couldn't be without my Thermomix because it saves me so much time. It's brilliant for multitasking and making sauces.

A Pacojet is another useful piece of kit. I use it to make things such as smoked salmon mousse as I know it will deliver a smooth consistency.

WHAT DO YOU LISTEN TO IN THE KITCHEN?

I normally stick on Radio X or indie music. The Stone Roses are always easy background listening.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT TO DATE?

Receiving the Trencherman's Award for Best Chef earlier this year. I felt privileged, happy and shocked all at the same time. I believed there were people in the room at the awards ceremony who were better than me, so receiving the accolade gave me motivation to be better.

YOUR MOST-READ RECIPE BOOK?

I read a lot about Italian cooking – anything by Giorgio Locatelli inspires me.

FAVOURITE PLACE TO EAT OUT?

10 Greek Street in Soho. It's simple, very clean cooking by two guys in a kitchen. I like the rustic style, intimate vibe and use of fresh seasonal ingredients on the daily menus.

BEST STAYCATION SPOT?

I love Naples, but in the UK it has to be Cornwall for the coastline and seafood restaurants.

GUILTY FOOD PLEASURE?

A dirty burger with streaky bacon and all the extras.

DESERT ISLAND MEAL?

I enjoy fish that's been cooked simply over fire, so probably something like flame-cooked mackerel served with fresh pickles, crème fraîche and flatbreads. To finish, a classic tiramisu.

the-castle-hotel.com

‘It gave me motivation to be better’