Hansar’s helping hands
There’s a lot more to LUXSA Spa than just healing.
Born Free
A glimpse into what motivates Thailand’s ladyboys – the ‘third sex’.
A Warm Welcome
Editor
Graeme Malley graeme@siammap.com
Graphic Designer Jit-anong Sae-ung - Zign
Photographer
Akaphon Phongninlaarphon - Don
Feature Writer Rob De Wet
Feature Writer Dimitri Waring
Feature Writer Natalie Hughes
Webmaster
Seksak Kerdkanno - Klauy
Sales & Marketing Director Nipawan Chuaysagul - Ning 0 898 783 891
ning@siammap.com
Financial Director Kasper Bjørk kasper@siammap.com
Managing Director Henrik Bjørk henrik@siammap.com
Siam Map Company Ltd. 52/6 Samui Ring Road, Moo 3 Bo Phut, Koh Samui, 84320, Thailand Tel: 0 7742 2201 Fax: 0 7741 3523 E-mail: info@siammap.com www.siammap.com
Over the years, Samui has become synonymous not just with great beaches and holidays, but with sheer convenience. It’s incredibly easy to get here, and once you’ve arrived there is virtually everything you would find back at home. But once upon a time, it wasn’t so easy to stay on Samui. There was only one way in and one way out: the night boat, a low, cramped wooden vessel that transported goods and people from the mainland to the island and back. It wasn’t comfortable, to say the least. Samui was an obscure place. It wasn’t in any guide books. You could see it on a map, but that was about all. But gradually word got out. And people started coming. But the reward was worth it: you arrived in Nathon, the port and capital and stayed in the houses of the islanders, who made their living from farming and fishing. They were incredibly hospitable and their visitors kept on spreading the story about this friendly, sun-drenched island in the gulf of Thailand.
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This long ago period wasn’t in the 18th century but in the ‘60s and ‘70s. And then the island just took off, metaphorically speaking, and became a major tourist destination. Today people come for more or less the same reasons: the sheer beauty of the place and the friendliness of its people. Nowadays you don’t have to take the night boat to get here, and you’ll probably jet into the island’s airport, or arrive by a much faster boat. And you’ll have a bit more choice than a few rooms in Nathon; the island now has upwards of 20,000 hotel rooms. And the cuisine, which once meant little more than rice with a few basic toppings, has evolved beyond belief; you can now dine on a huge variety of Thai dishes and indulge in every major cuisine the world has to offer.
Distribution at Bangkok Airport courtesy of Bangkok Airways. Reservation Center: 1771 Samui Chaweng Office: 0 7760 1300 www.bangkokair.com
You’re spoiled for choice – and in so many different ways. Enjoy! Please recycle or pass on to a friend.
Mediterranean Cuisine Cuisine Mediterranean Amidst Amidstaapanoramic panoramicdreamscape dreamscapethat thatoverlooks overlooks the the pristine pristine Crystal Crystal Bay, Bay, The TheCliff Cliffwarmly warmlyinvites invitesyou youtotoaatruly trulyunforgettable unforgettable dining dining experience experience on on Koh Koh Samui. Samui.
www.thecliffsamui.com
Wine Spectator Award of Excellence 2014 & 2015 2014
2015
HAPA 2011 - 2013 Most Exquisite Dining Experience Most Trendy Casual Dining Restaurant Of The Year
2005
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2015
"Thailand's Best Restaurants" 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2013, 2014 & 2015
Reservations Essential For reservations please call 077 448 508 Bar daily 12pm - 2am
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Kitchen opens 12pm - 10pm.
Choeng Mon
CONTENTS 76
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20 The Many Faces Of Chaweng What to do in Samui’s biggest beach town.
68 Part of the Art
There’s a lot more to LUXSA Spa than just healing.
36 Bang up to Date
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82
The Thinking Man’s Indian
Noori India doesn’t just make super food; it’s where to go for an entertaining conversation, too!
58
Cornu Koh-Pia
Core Concepts Absolute Sanctuary’s latest ideas put fitness well within your reach.
Gambling in Thailand – and why it’s not a good idea to be tempted!
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Restaurant Disguised You might think Drink Gallery is just a bar, until you see the food.
42 The House Always Wins
86 On Your Bike!
The humorous guide to riding a motorbike in Thailand
For a small island, Samui packs a punch when it comes to shopping.
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Fitness Foundation Going to the gym’s a pleasure again, thanks to Elite Gym and Fitness.
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100 Born Free A glimpse into what motivates Thailand’s ladyboys – the ‘third sex’.
106 A Decidedly Different Day Out
The extraordinary world of Art Samui.
When it comes to trust, it’s hard to beat Samui’s leading pharmaceutical chain – Morya!
refurbished, but it’s still very much in tune with its original vibe.
There’s a dual-pricing system in Thailand – is this simple economics, or simply discrimination?
30 Hansar’s Helping Hands
46 Resort Re-launch Secret Garden Beach Resort has just been
Cheap at Twice the Price?
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Cutting-Edge Without Cutting! A look at Bangkok Samui Hospital Clinic’s revolutionary new process at Central Festival.
Paradise Park Farm captivates its visitors with stunning scenery and fun things to do.
112 Delightful Duo
Seafood Palate restaurant wows with its tasty Italian and Thai dishes.
118 Daily Devotions Samui offers places of worship for many different cultures and religions.
124 Exquisitely Eastern Oriental Living showcases the finest in Asian-inspired home décor and furnishings.
130 The Walls Have Eyes When it comes to property surveillance, B Smart Sys has you totally covered.
134 Get a Grip on the Rip Currents, critters, coral and what to look out for in the water.
T H E
H O M E
O F
I N S P I R E D
I N T E R I O R S
Phuket 424 Srisoonthorn Rd. Cherngtalay Tel/Fax: +66 (0) 76 325 419
Samui 9/18 Moo1 Maenam Tel/Fax: +66 (0) 77 247 675
info@oriental-living.net
www.oriental-living.net
An Exclusive Gem on the shores of Koh Samui Prana Resort Nandana invites you to an idyllic Thai sanctuary where traditional charm co-exists with modern comfort, where leisure travellers can bask in nature’s beauty while rejuvenating both body and mind, and business travellers can attend meetings in an atmosphere conducive to inspire creativity. 60 brand new rooms which include 5 direct pool access rooms and 1 Suite Stylish outdoor swimming pool with outdoor jacuzzi and children’s pool
Zama Rooftop Kitchen / Bar Wine Bar 3 function rooms with conference and banquet facilities
On-site signature spa with private treatment rooms
Tour Desk
Fitness Centre
Easy access to the beach
Kids’ Club
3km from Koh Samui Airport
Gift Shop
5km from Fisherman’s Village and Central Festival Samui
Access to Prana Beach Villas’ facilities
Tel: +66 77 246 362
14/3 Moo 4. T. Bophut, Koh Samui, Suratthani, Thailand 84320 Fax: +66 77 246 369 Email: reservation@pranaresorts.com www.pranaresorts.com
SAMUi’s newest rooftop restaurant serving innovative thai and gourmet european fare
RiSE ABOVE
ROOFTOP KiTCHEN / BAR
Open for Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Prana Resort Nandana, Bangrak, 14/3 Moo 4. T. Bophut, Koh Samui, Suratthani, Thailand 84320 Reservations: +66 77 253 688 Email: potatoes@zamasamui.com www.zamasamui.com
Island Insight An overall guide to Samui’s towns, villages, beaches and hotspots.
Samui is an idyllic tropical paradise. A blend of traditional Thai hospitality and remote island life has joined hands with modern traveller expectations. But the towns, villages and interior are home to much more than just luxury resorts, restaurants, bars and retail shops. And whilst the main beaches are recognised as some of the best in the world, there are also secluded coves and magical hideaways around many corners – if you know where to look. And this quick guide will point you in the right direction.
Chaweng
Chaweng’s main beach is five kilometres in length and is lined with 5-star luxury resorts, boutique hotels, budget accommodation and great oceanfront restaurants. Behind the resorts, the Chaweng Beach Road is filled with restaurants, bars, spas, shops, street stalls and mobile food vendors. The lake sits to the rear of them and is a wonderful place for an early morning walk or jog. Near the southern end of the lake is the Soi Reggae entertainment area which also has two Muay Thai boxing stadiums, a temple guarded by carved monkeys and the huge Laem Din market complex. All manner of fresh produce is delivered here every day and the adjoining Dow Seafood market is a hive of activity from the early hours.
Lamai
Samui’s second most popular beach is around four kilometres long and the waters are perfect for swimming. There’s plenty of choice in accommodation, restaurants, bars, spas and health resorts. It also has a free Muay Thai event every Saturday and just off the Beach Road there’s a children’s water park. Wat Lamai is home to a cultural centre and museum that houses artifacts of Samui life before the advent of tourism. On Sundays there’s a ‘Walking Street’ along part of the Beach Road. And just outside of Lamai town on the ring-road is the famous Hin Ta-Hin Yai rock formations that has dozens of small local Thai restaurants around it. 14 l www.samuiholiday.com
Mae Nam
Nestled on the northern shores of the island, Mae Nam Beach stretches for several kilometres and overlooks the neighbouring island of Koh Pha-Ngan. High-end resorts and beach bungalows are dotted along the coast and many visitors love it for its peacefulness, soft golden sands and wonderful views. It has seven side streets that meander into the mountains: from Soi 1 you can follow the road over the mountains all the way to Lamai; Soi 4 has a ‘Walking Street’ every Thursday from mid-afternoon and also houses an ornate Chinese temple overlooking the beach and a large Buddhist temple set a few hundred metres back from the ringroad; Soi 5 has a tree-top canopy adventure theme park a few kilometres into the hills; there’s a buffalo fighting stadium a couple of hundred metres off the main road between Soi 5 and Soi 6; an early morning market is also in Soi 6; an evening market near to Soi 7; and the world-class Santiburi Golf Course in the hills above Soi 7. There’re dozens of bars and restaurants in Mae Nam, many of which are on side roads that lead down to the ocean. And at the western end of the beach the Lomprayah ferry takes passengers to the neighbouring islands several times a day.
NathoN
This is the island’s main administrative centre and the major ferry port for boats to and from the mainland. There’re some hotels but it’s more a town you would visit for an afternoon rather than stay in. Beside the terminal, there’s a local food market every day from mid-afternoon until late in the evening. Along what is known as the ‘middle road’ there’re old teak shop-houses and small businesses and a ‘Walking Street’ on Saturdays. And on the one-way road that goes through the town there’re dozens of shops and restaurants. Just off the main road there’s an ornate Chinese temple and garden in Soi 4. And near the far end there’s a renowned open-air duck restaurant – just follow the crowds around lunchtime.
Bo Phut
Bo Phut is best known for Fisherman’s Village. It’s a single narrow street that still has authentic wooden houses that Samui folk have lived in for generations. Parts of it have been modernized but it’s still awash with local foods, international restaurants, bars, shops and market stalls. It becomes one huge ‘Walking Street’ every Friday and you’ll find lots of local delicacies that few other restaurants have. Along with small hotels, there’re several 5-star luxury resorts at the far end and the beach curves around a large bay that also overlooks Koh Pha-Ngan. And small speedboats leave from the village pier heading for the Full Moon parties that take place there every month.
Big Buddha and Plai Laem
The magnificent golden Big Buddha statue that watches over the island from the north-east corner of Samui is one of the first things you see as you fly into Samui Airport. Built on a tiny island (Koh Farn) with a connecting causeway, it’s the most iconic image of the island. Many Thais pray at the temple so dressing and acting appropriately is expected when you enter the site. There’re some very good Thai restaurants and small stores around the temple. It also affords some beautiful views and along the road from it you’ll see another large Buddha image at Wat Plai Laem. Half-way along the road between the temples is a side road that cuts through to Choeng Mon. Down this road there’s access to some quiet secluded beaches, although some of them are through resorts.
Choeng Mon
Choeng Mon lies just 15 minutes or so from the middle of Chaweng but it seems like worlds away. There’s a small town that the road runs through with a couple of dozen restaurants and bars. The beach is a favourite for many locals as it’s quiet, picturesque and safe for swimming most of the year round. There’s every class of accommodation with some old-style beach bungalows at one end. And they all overlook the tiny deserted island of Koh Farn Noi which you can walk out to if the tide is low.
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Bang Rak
In between Fisherman’s Village and Big Buddha is where you’ll find Bang Rak. There’s a few very good resorts and some private villas for rent along the beachfront that stretches around for several kilometres and has stunning views. Bars and restaurants line the main street and there’re two piers. The one nearest to Big Buddha has daily ferries to Koh Pha-Ngan, Koh Tao and on to the mainland port of Chumpon, from which a VIP bus takes passengers to Hua Hin and on to Bangkok. Start to finish, it’s a 12-hour journey with about half of it on the boat. Just beside the ferry terminal in Bang Rak is one of the busiest fish markets on the island. Local fishermen drop their catches here and the place is bustling with people all day long. At the other end of town there’s a short-cut into Chaweng on a road called Soi Bond Kai (which the locals refer to as the ‘Ghost Road’).
Taling Ngam and Lipa Noi
The south-west part of the island is known as the ‘Virgin Coast’. It’s largely unspoiled with lots of secluded bays, although most of the shoreline tends to be rocky. The west coast overlooks the famous ‘five islands’ and some of the closer islands of the Angthong National Marine Park (which is a perfect getaway for a day’s boat trip excursion). In this part of the island there’re some hotels, private villas for rent, up-market and local restaurants and several temples of note, including two that house a mummified monk. A second car ferry terminal is located in Lipa Noi and, like the one in Nathon, boats to and from Donsak on the mainland arrive and depart every hour from 5:00 am until 6:00 pm (check for details). And inland on the island’s main ring-road there’re several large waterfall sites and a safari park with elephant trekking, animal shows and adventure tours. Further along, next to the Ford and Mazda dealers is a new Butterfly and Insect Kingdom Park.
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Hua Thanon
This predominately muslim village is home to the descendants of some of the island’s earliest settlers. There’s still a thriving fishing fleet and fish market and a natural coastline that’s survived the ravages of time. Just after the village (coming from Lamai) you can turn off the ring-road to the left and signs will direct you to the nearby Tiger Zoo, Aquarium and Sea-life Show, the Butterfly Farm, the Snake Farm and the local Rum Distillery.
Thong Krut
With its brightly coloured fishing boats and backdrop of small islands to the one side, and coconut plantations to the other, Thong Krut is a picturesque little village. Located in the southwest corner of the island, this is where you’ll come if you’re after a long-tail boat to take you to the nearby islands of Koh Tan and Koh Matsum. Lining the shore you’ll find a selection of simple restaurants offering Thai food, and particularly good seafood, as well as tour operators offering trips to the islands.
The Interior
Samui predominately consists of hills, mountains and coconut plantations. And few visitors make the time to appreciate its hidden beauty. One way to do so is to take the turning into Mae Nam Soi 1. A new road has recently been constructed that goes over the mountains all the way to Lamai. The drive is only about 20-25 minutes over 15 kilometres with a couple of stopping off areas that offer fabulous views. Another way to really get the full picture of Samui is from Tar Nim’s Magic Garden at the top of one of the island’s highest peaks. Built during a 25-year period by a local farmer the stone statues in the garden were sculpted by hand and sit over 2,000 feet above the beaches below.
w w w. t h e l a r d e r s a m u i . c o m 9/114 Moo 2 | Chaweng K o h S a m u i | S u r a t Th a n i 8 4 3 2 0 t: 077-601-259
Open 12pm - 11pm lunch through dinner Closed Sundays
THE MANY FACES OF
CHAWENG What to do in Samui’s biggest beach town.
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Picture courtesy Claudio/fantasyatwork.com
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You’ve just arrived, suitcase casually thrown onto the hotel bed, already rummaging through its contents to find your swimming gear. Because let’s face it, you’re in the tropics now, an island getaway and the first thing on your mind is sun, sun and lots of it. Chaweng definitely offers everything you dreamed of for that lazy day on the beach, but take a step inland and it will offer you a whole lot more - and I don’t just mean the shopping. And the night time is a whole other story. Chaweng is a beautiful white sand beach and its shallow waters make it ideal for the whole family. At five kilometres, it is the longest stretch of beach on the east coast of the island and is roughly divided into four areas – north Chaweng, central Chaweng, south Chaweng and Chaweng Noi (meaning little Chaweng), which lies to the very south of the main beach around a small headland. Off the coast of north Chaweng you can see the island of Koh Matlang, and at low tide you
can walk across to the island. If you are looking for a good area for swimming, Chaweng Noi has deeper water than the rest of the beach. Taking a stroll along the beach you will see a variety of things to do, there’s jet skiing for the thrill seeker, and in central Chaweng you will see the Aqua Park, large inflatables, bobbing up and down on the waves while people desperately try to climb on or over them. Or for a mellower day on the sands you’ll see many massage and spa places under the coconut trees that line the beach. There is nothing more relaxing than enjoying a massage under the gently swaying palms. Or perhaps you’d prefer a cool drink or cocktail at one of the many beachside restaurants. For some, there really is no need to move from the beach. Take your towel, sunscreen, and sunglasses in the morning and hit the sands. Stay for lunch at a small restaurant, have a massage and work on your tan.
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But once you are itching for something else to do, where to go and what to see? Walk down Chaweng Beach Road and you’ll be struck by the number of shops and stalls that line the street, well over a thousand, none of which are visible from the beach. But if you’re in the mood for something a little more active, take a look up into the hills in north Chaweng and you will see a gold spire. This is Wat Khao Hua Jook, perched at the top of a very steep hill – you may have to leave your motorbike at the bottom and hike to the top. But the trek is well worth it. The view of Chaweng Beach, the turquoise blue of the sea and Chaweng Lake is spectacular from up here. After your trek you’ll probably be in need of a good massage. Along the main street you’ll be spoilt for choice with the number of possibilities, from simple massage places to the more up-market spas that offer face masks and peels and manicures and pedicures. Most of the hotels have their own spas as well – which, while pricier, are usually in more relaxing surroundings.
Picture courtesy Claudio/fantasyatwork.com
Some like to take home more than a tan and a bunch of souvenirs, and if cooking is your thing then you’ll be happy to know that there are a couple of cooking schools based right in central Chaweng. All the dishes are made from scratch and usually you’ll get to visit the local market as well, where you pick up the fresh ingredients. And the best of course is that you get to eat what you’ve made when you’re finished. If you’re interested in taking a look at the market on your own, there’s a fresh produce market call Laem Din, which is about a 15 minute walk from central Chaweng. There you can pick up some local fruit while across the road there are street food stalls with cheap meals. Chaweng comes alive at night – the laziness of the day on the sands is all but forgotten. A lot of the beachside restaurants in central Chaweng cater towards the younger, party crowd, offering beach barbeques,
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blasting out house music, and if you’re lucky enough you’ll get to enjoy a free fire dance show. At the northern and southern end of the town, evenings are more leisurely and quieter affairs and the street is much less crowded. Walking down Chaweng Beach Road at night is a blast of neon from all sides, and you’ll see that more stalls have set up along the road. It’s a great place to pick up souvenirs. There are also food stalls selling local Thai food. But if you’re interested in a meal other than Thai then Chaweng can certainly offer you a whole host of cuisines from around the world, from Indian to Italian, with prices to suit every pocket. There’s no end to the choice of menus. For party goers in the mood for dancing there is Soi Green Mango, a street of bars and nightclubs in central Chaweng. Or if you prefer some
chef’s dinner specials
Overseeing the culinary team at Hansar Samui, born and raised in Montreal, Canada, Chef Stephen began his culinary career at the famed restaurant Les Halles in Quebec, one of the most outstanding independent restaurants in Canada. A unique opportunity to be the Private Chef to His Majesty the King of Jordan became a turning point in his career and he spent the next two years catering for the Royal Family. Stephen spent the next five years at the Lebua at State Tower Bangkok (known as the Dome) and within a few years became the Executive Chef at the Sirocco restaurant. At our beachfront H Bistro restaurant, Stephen has created a unique epicurean experience for guests where they can appreciate the authentic taste of French Mediterranean Cuisine, in addition to a Thai menu.
Stephen Dion “an epicurean experience one shouldn’t be missed”
reggae music or a live band there’s the Reggae Pub on the other side of Chaweng Lake. On the topic of clubs there is one that’s quite unique on a hot tropical island, Bar Ice, where you are given warm winter clothes to wear. Yes, you read right. The temperature inside is below freezing. So whether you would prefer to laze in the sun, sipping cocktails, or jet-ski and splash about in the water by day, Chaweng has it all. And at night whether thumping music and barbeques on the beach is your thing, or if you’d prefer a candlelit dinner, then you can be sure that Chaweng can accommodate these tastes too.
Natalie Hughes
H Bistro at Hansar Samui 101/27-28 Moo 1, Bophut, Koh Samui +66 77 245 511 www.hansarsamui.com
HANSAR’S HELPING HANDS There’s a lot more to LUXSA Spa than just healing. How routine are your tasks? Are you on autopilot? Even if you’re doing the same thing every single day, sometimes someone will ask you to do something that’ll totally surprise you. Something out of the blue. It may seem so difficult that you might just doubt that you can actually do it at all. At LUXSA Spa, most tasks might seem to have to do with massage and healing. But it’s not always the case. When the spa manager, Khun Kantima Chompoolad was called in to see her boss, CEO Indra Budiman, she had no idea of the strange journey that lay before her, nor how it would impact people’s lives. “I need you to find someone,” said Indra. “Someone quite specific. It has to be exactly the right person; no other will do. We’re going to train someone to be a spa therapist from scratch. That person has to be someone who works from their heart. That’s the only qualification they’ll need for now. And the person has to be blind.” Blind? Well, it’s not so hard to find a blind masseur in Thailand; there’s a tradition of blind people training in massage. But a spa therapist is another matter. A therapist has all the connotations of being able to bring healing to the people who come to the spa. It’s not just a question of physical manipulation, no matter how good. Khun Kantima went away wondering how on earth she would find this person. She soon established that on Koh Samui, there’s actually a member of the local government who’s responsible for the blind on the island, Khun Soraya, who confirmed that there are some 80 people living on the island who’re blind. Unfortunately none seemed a likely candidate, so Khun Kantima started looking beyond Samui.
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In the south of Thailand there are two schools for the blind; one in Suratthani and one in Songkhla. On a day off, Kantima took a ferry to the mainland, found the first of the schools and started talking to its director, Khun Jitra and the students themselves. Khun Jitra told her that there was a student who was very keen to learn massage and who would definitely be interested. She was introduced to Khun Bia, a young man of 19. He is 50% blind and has been from birth. With the sight that he does have, he can see books and computer screens if he puts his face close up to them. But that’s all. He lives in a world that is comprised of vague blurs. Glasses of any kind are useless to him, and don’t help in any way. Khun Kantima talked to him and decided that this was indeed exactly the kind of person her CEO wanted her to find. He was someone with a good heart, she saw; the students all loved him and he had a reputation for being incredibly helpful. He has yet to leave school but when he does, he’ll start training with Khun Kantima. It will take time, of course, as he has to reach a very high professional standard, way beyond what’s required of a simple masseur. Hansar will pay for all his costs along the way, and when he’s finished there won’t be anything for him to repay. It’s not a PR exercise. Like many companies, Hansar have a Corporate Social Responsibility Programme, and each month they hold a different activity to help the less fortunate in the community. Says Indra, “We support local culture and people and do this through special activities such as educational support and mentoring programmes.”
Khun Supatra Pimalai, more usually called Khun Emmy, was the first recipient of a major educational gift, the Hansar Samui Scholarship. She’s a local person who was interested in working in hotels. Hansar trained her and she then went on to become a spa therapist, herself. The fund for the CSR programme is in part raised from selling organic products from their garden and aquaponics fish farm. These areas are next to the hotel and are tended by staff; each department has its own plot within the garden and is responsible for specific crops. Sometimes guests donate, and receive an update on how the money is put to good use. Obviously a lot of thought has gone into all of this and the CSR programme isn’t just an afterthought. Lives will change for the better because of it. The spa also benefits, and so to do its guests. You may now be wondering about LUXSA, and what it’s like to visit a place that is built in tandem along social responsibility guidelines and professional healing therapies. As you can imagine, this is not your average resort spa. For a start, LUXSA is a beautiful place that’s set apart from the rest of the hotel. Step through its doors into a world where you can leave your cares behind. It’s about taking time out to just get back to being yourself, who you really are. No need to worry if you’ve never been to a spa before or if you’ve never had a massage. The spa menu encompasses many different procedures and you’ll find plenty to choose from. There are manicures, pedicures, facials, scrubs and that’s in addition to the massages. Khun Kantima will be very happy to help you choose your treatment. You’ll also find a steam room using organic herbs, fresh from the hotel garden (not the dried variety used by some spas) and various packages that can range from a couple of hours or more through a six-hour comprehensive experience that’s spread out over three days.
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The treatments are all done by very experienced therapists, who’ve been trained along very strict guidelines, as will be Khun Bia. So you’re in the very best hands. Just to give one example out of many treatments that are incredibly satisfying, you could opt for the Healing Body, Mind and Soul Shirodhara. It’s one of LUXSA’s signature treatments and offers two and a half hours of very deep relaxation. Shirodhara, by the way, is an age-old Ayurvedic treatment that relieves mental stress and nervous tension. It’s been used to treat a host of maladies from migraines, allergies, insomnia, depression and anxiety – to name but a few. The process includes a deep tissue massage with herbal ball compress, the Shirodhara massage itself,
a herbal hair treatment, Tibetan bowl healing music and a milk bath and steam room session. It’ll leave you with a sense of wellbeing that will last a long, long time afterwards. And it’s also a good reason for going back to experience more treatments, as many spa guests do, returning to LUXSA knowing that they’re in the hands of true professionals.
Dimitri Waring
__________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7724 5511. www.hansarsamui.com
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BANG UP
TO DATE
When it comes to trust, it’s hard to beat Samui’s leading pharmaceutical chain – Morya! If you’ve only been to Thailand a time or two, you’ll still be wary. All that alarmist advice about injections for hepatitis and cholera, dengue fever being rampant, and never, ever drink the water, will still be on your mind. You’re thousands of miles from all the familiar things of home. You don’t know your way around, the language is strange and you can’t read the signs. It’s a relief to see something you know, like a Coke can or a burger bar! And when it comes to medicines, prescriptions or first aid, you’re lost. You’re not happy to trust what you get over here. One visitor we know even phoned his optician in Hamburg and had new contact lenses couriered out, at huge expense, after he’d lost his own ones. But really, and truly, there’s no need for any of this at all. Perhaps a generation ago there was cause for concern. But not today. Thailand is now well known for the international standard of its hospitals, and there are many people who come here each year solely for surgical procedures. And as standards have risen, so the pharmacies have evolved along the same lines. Take a look at the way the Thai people themselves do things. The pharmacists here are highly trained, and many have either studied or worked in the West - usually in America or Europe. Most are similarly qualified in diagnosis, and a lengthy component of their education is physiology and anatomy, hence the inclination for a Thai person with an ache or a pain to consult their pharmacist rather than their doctor. But, if you stay here long enough, you’ll notice something interesting. Some pharmacies attract a lot more custom than others. And there are two reasons for this. Many of the smaller places don’t have medically trained staff, just a couple of low-paid assistants. And secondly, most pharmacies don’t keep a full range of branded prescription drugs; those names like Pfizer or Roche or Johnson & Johnson that we all know and trust. But there’s one notable exception to this. A brand name that’s exclusive to Samui. And that name is Morya. The first Morya pharmacy appeared here back in 2001. A native of the nearby mainland town of Surat Thani, the owner and Executive Director of the chain, Khun Kwanchai Patpaen, had anticipated the potential on the tourist island of Samui for quality pharmacies that offered a wide range products and services. He himself was fully qualified, with a degree in pharmaceutical science. And he insisted that his upper-level staff (of which there are several in each of the now 20 branches across the island) had each undergone an intensive 5 or 6 year Doctor of Pharmacy degree program. They’re qualified in both biochemistry and organic chemistry. Plus they’ve had to study the law as it relates to medicine as well as pharmacy. And they all speak excellent English.
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But in the last few years, the spectrum of visitors to Samui has shifted. Now it’s become necessary to communicate in Russian and several other languages, too. The result is that Morya staff training now includes a comprehensive component involving online internet translation. If you can’t speak Thai and your English is wobbly, a visit to a branch of Morya will put an end to your frustration. So just what does this mean in practical terms? Well, the main thing is that any branch of Morya will be able to replicate any prescription that you need, so there’s no need to fill your suitcase full of pills before you come. They’re connected to national and international suppliers, and will quickly find your medication. If you insist on international branding, fine. But if you are up for it, they can analyse your prescription and supply you with an identical alternative at a fraction of the usual cost. The vast majority of visitors to Samui spend their time here with nothing more to worry about than a headache or a grazed knee. But unfortunately, each month there are more than a few road accidents involving tourists. Some of these casualties end up in need of equipment such as walking sticks, crutches, or even wheelchairs. Should you be so unlucky, then of course, the immediate reaction is to buy them from whatever hospital you’ve been taken to. However, the main Morya branch in Chaweng keeps a wide selection of such equipment, which is available to rent at very reasonable rates. Happily, not everything in a pharmacy – a ‘chemist’s shop’ – is about the down side of life! Think about your familiar name chains back home. There are lotions and potions and health and beauty and skin-care products, plus a whole range of baby-and infant-based items, too. And 38 l www.samuiholiday.com
so it is with Morya. It’s true that they now have 20 outlets on the island. But included in this are two branches of the very progressive ‘Green Health’. In the regular Moryas you’ll find that it’s all centred on pharmacy plus health-and-well-being products, plus a few shelves of herbal remedies. In the Green Cross Moryas, it’s the other way around. Khun Kwanchai has gathered-in so many alternative and holistic products that you could fill a shop with them. So that’s exactly what he’s done. Look out for these – they are simply fascinating! But you’re on holiday. And you’ll be looking out for something – many things – to take back as gifts and souvenirs. And that’s where Morya scores again with its extensive range of ‘Oriental Nature’ products. There’s an entire range of shampoos, bath salts, balms, creams and face and body scrubs created exclusively for Morya and made from natural holistic ingredients. The ‘Bee Venom Anti-Aging Facial Cream’ is a talking point. As is the ‘Snail Refreshing Face Cream’. And there are three gift sets in presentation packages (Mango, Aloe Vera, Coconut, Mangosteen) that include shampoo, conditioner, scrubs and balms, waiting just for you. The Morya HQ is on the ring-road in Chaweng. But the latest branch has just opened on the fringe of Fisherman’s Village, just outside the arch, alongside 7-11. Easy to see and a must to explore. And the architecture, plus the products and the service, are bang up to date!
Rob De Wet
_____________________________________________________________ For more information, telephone 0 7741 3298-9.
BOUTIQUE RESORT KOH SAMUI
The Dining Room is open Monday to Saturday for dinner, closed Sunday The Bistro is open every day for lunch and dinner
THE R E S TA U R A N T
Pavilion presents the best in Samui Boutique Resort dining.
The Patio Restaurant serves authentic Italian and Thai delicacies. Experience a romantic meal with outstanding sea views. The Look-Out Bar is the ideal place to unwind with a drink by our beach side pool. Wedding on the Beach Experience the most special day of your life in romantic tropical surroundings at Pavilion Samui Boutique Resort. Select from our Western, Thai and Chinese wedding options. Let us tailor make a celebration for you or choose one of our wedding packages.
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Lamai Beach, Koh Samui Tel: 0 7742 4420, 0 7742 4030 Fax: 0 7742 4029 www.samuiholiday.com info@pavilionsamui.com www.pavilionsamui.com
Serving an exciting variety of Thai, Italian and seafood from our open, show kitchen with genuine pizza oven. Choose from open air seating on the first floor with ocean view or air-conditioned seating on the ground floor. Live music every night.
Open daily from 12 noon till 11 pm Located on Lamai Beach Road opposite Pavilion Samui Boutique Resort www.samuiholiday.com l 41 Reservation: 077 424 420
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THE HOUSE ALWAYS WINS Gambling in Thailand – and why it’s not a good idea to be tempted! The Thais are a fun-loving nation. They like nothing better than to have a good get-together. Bring in some chums, a bottle or two, and a nice bouncy set of karaoke tunes. No-one cares if you can’t sing – in fact that’s almost a requirement. They’re a peaceful, passive people, un-nerved by standing in line, or sitting in rows of cars at red lights. But they’re passionate, too; just look at the way they love football. Or their soap operas on TV. But there’s one thing that beats the lot. Something they all just itch to do. There’s one thing that’s almost a national addiction. But, alas, it’s not allowed. And that’s gambling. And it’s illegal. Actually, it is allowed. But only in two respects, and they’re controlled with an iron fist. The first and most popular is the Government Lottery. This is held every two weeks and attracts record audiences when the draw is aired on TV. To give you some idea of the immense national involvement, think about this. Twenty million Thai people (one-third of the population) buy tickets every time, each spending an average of 2,400 baht every month. The Thai average wage is a bit less than 15,000 baht a month – meaning that 20 million people spend one sixth of their before-tax income on lottery tickets every month. These people are serious! They have developed sure-fire ways of dropping on to the right combinations of numbers, snatching them avidly from dreams, running permutations of their birthdays, telephone numbers, street addresses, or even car number plates, consulting fortune tellers, exhorting Buddha every day for good luck, visiting their local temple to pray for the right numbers – even gaining mystical insights through oddly-shaped vegetables or the unexpected sight of a deformed animal. Unfortunately, none of this alters the cold hard fact that the pay-out ratio is heavily pegged to be one of the worst in the world at 60%, comparing unfavourably with other national lotteries (74%), bingo (81%) horse racing (89%) or the admirable 98% seen with blackjack. www.samuiholiday.com l 43
The only other legal form of betting is horse racing, which regularly takes place at venues such as the Bangkok Turf Club, and betting is permitted on these events. However, gambling on foreign horse racing is, as with all other sports, strictly prohibited. If you’re new to Thailand then such a statement will probably make you smile, shake your head knowingly, and murmur something slick about the internet. But just try it! Google ‘online betting’, pick out a couple of prime candidates, and try to get onto their websites. You can’t. Because the government here is adamant about all aspects of gambling, and has censored all online gambling and betting sites. The entire thing is a bit scary. But it’s the reason – this addictive compulsion – why gambling is so strictly controlled in Thailand. Every year 50,000 gambling cases come before the Thai courts with fines range from 500 baht to 5,000 baht and jail stints from a few days to three years, with heavier penalties being bestowed upon those deemed to be organisers or ringleaders. And if you’re in the mood to throw a few dollars around in a bar to bet on the outcome of the Superbowl, or fancy a flutter in a sports pub because The Derby is on TV, or even just fancy a game of cards, then think again. Foreigners are not exempt. But if you promptly throw up your hands and mutter the Thai equivalent of “it’s a fair cop, I’ll go quietly officer”, then you’ll probably get away with only a moderate fine – and then be handed over to the authorities to be deported . . . at your own expense. Don’t say you haven’t been warned! However, such restrictions don’t apply to Thailand’s neighbours. As a result you’ll find no fewer than seven huge casinos, with Las Vegas wannabe luxury hotels attached, just after the Aranyaprathet border post on the Cambodian side at Poipet, just a few hundred metres away from the rigours of Thailand. Most of the customers you’ll see here are Thais. Officially a permit is needed to travel across into Cambodia, but there are Cambodian ‘brokers’ who will get you into a casino compound with 44 l www.samuiholiday.com
a sort of package deal, if you speak to the right people. The border at Had Lek in Trat province offers the same sort of opportunities, with casinos just across the border at Koh Kong (also Cambodia) and up in the north there are more casinos just across the Mekong River in Laos. You’d think the Thai government would be itching to get in on all this, wouldn’t you! But, you see, it’s all about not losing face. They need a way, after all this righteous legislation, to figure out how to put together a scheme so it sounds like it’s doing everyone a favour and they’ve not suddenly changed their mind overnight. And, lo and behold, exactly such a plan is in the pipeline as you read this. The stance is that there are too many underground dens, leading to all the associated crime, bribery and corruption. Legalised casinos would, on the other hand, generate more income, provide increased employment, and promote tourism. But, to ensure the moral vigour of their national flock, there’s a condition. Thai people will have to show ID, and will not be permitted to enter a casino in their home province. They’ll have to travel, if they want to gamble. I suppose the idea is that it works the same way as wife-beating. You don’t plan a weekend away with accommodation for two in a nice hotel simply so you can whack your wife about – it’s a spontaneous thing that suddenly happens on impulse. An hour later you’re full of remorse. Very much like with gambling (as all the pawn shops in the casinos across the border seem to emphasise.) So if you can be bothered to plan it and have the time and money to travel, well, that’s okay, off you go then – if you’re Thai, that is. But, seeing as you’re probably not, then it won’t affect you so much. Unless you get nabbed playing cards in a local bar, anyway!
Rob De Wet
New Branch Grand Opening at The Wharf Samui
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RESORT RE-LAUNCH Secret Garden Beach Resort has just been refurbished, but it’s still very much in tune with its original vibe. Every so often on your travels you’ll come across a resort or a restaurant that you just sense has some history to it, which put down its roots, stayed strong and established itself. And when you walk in through its doors, you know that you’ve arrived somewhere that’s trustworthy and will fulfil all your expectations. Secret Garden is a place like that; it’s one of Samui’s original small resorts that started off as just a dream in its owners’ minds. They were a Thai family who bought the open plot of land in 1987. It was just a coconut plantation back then, albeit fronting an amazingly beautiful beach. Two years later, they built a pub on the land and then, in 1993, they started to build the first backpacker bungalows. Back in those days, Samui wasn’t as well-known as it is today. As a tourist spot it was certainly lagging behind Phuket in terms of fame. Not just that, the infrastructure was fairly basic. Travelling around Samui was difficult; there were far more dirt tracks than you’ll see today, and Bangrak, where Secret Garden is located, was just a strip of tiny beachside cottages, and some restaurant and bars. Because it was located right on the beach, people loved staying at Secret Garden. Amenities were fairly simple, yet the place was comfortable; there was electricity, running water and food and drink. But there was something else too: music.
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It was a major draw. It had started in 1990, when Secret Garden was just a pub and someone had the idea to create a stage. Some people came because they wanted to jam – they turned up with guitars and musical instruments, while others just pulled up a chair to listen. Soon it became a bit of a tradition to turn up at Secret Garden on a Sunday afternoon. Fifty, a hundred people would come; sometimes the entire place was packed, and you could hardly move. How did all that come about? Word of mouth is how. Back in those days the internet was just getting off the ground, and social networking meant standing with a drink in your hand and talking face-to-face. On a small island, such as Samui, something like Secret Garden wasn’t going to, well, be secret for very long. In any case, the music soared into the air and people coming along the road would drop in to see what was going on. The resort did well for itself, and even though it’s changed hands as many resorts have over the years, it’s kept its name. And it’s also kept its music. The wellknown Secret Garden Sunday Sessions have been going for quarter of a 48 l www.samuiholiday.com
century, albeit with a few lulls here and there. The music is performed by locals and international artists visiting or staying on the island, with the most famous ever being Mick Jagger, who once performed here while on holiday. In 2012, John Vermeulen and Rik van der Voort became the new Dutch owners of Secret Garden. They decided that the time had come to focus once more on the Secret Garden Sunday Sessions and the event is very popular again, with a lot of Samui residents and visitors attending this weekly event. John and Rik aren’t simply impresarios, however. Not content with arranging music, they have also completely modernized the resort. They’ve kept the original ambience; it’s still in tune with the old vibe of being this amazingly relaxed, great-value spot to stay in or just drop by for some refreshments.
The sea here is great for swimming, and the beach is part of the sandy bay of Bangrak, which curves all the way up towards Big Buddha. Day beds on the beach and around the pool are ideal for the guests wishing to spend long lazy hours here with beautiful sea views and refreshing cocktails. The Beachfront Restaurant & Bar is open daily from 8:00 am until 11:00 pm. You’ll find a wonderful à la carte breakfast, sandwiches, salads, homemade pizzas and a wonderful Thai and European/Mediterranean lunch and dinner menu. And every Sunday, you’ll find the Secret Garden Sunday Sessions featuring live music and a barbecue and buffet, starting at 7:00 pm, with free entry. Happy hour is from 5:30 pm to 6:30 pm daily, and on Fridays it’s extended an extra hour with a selection of finger food as well. Fridays is especially popular with the island’s residents who come to unwind after a week at work.
Thanks to friendly, welcoming staff and a great chef, Secret Garden is a great place to drop into, even if you have accommodation elsewhere. But you may well want to stay when you see the newly designed bungalows that are located in the tropical garden around the swimming pool. They offer everything you’ll need or desire for your stay on Samui. To celebrate the new-look Secret Garden, Rik and John held a resort relaunch party in August, featuring, of course, live music. At Secret Garden you’re five minutes away from the airport and from there it’s a hop to Chaweng and its restaurants, bars and nightlife. You’ll find the resort on the Bangrak beach road as you head towards Big Buddha and the airport.
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In less than 50 years, Samui has gone from unknown to a world-class holiday destination that brings together people from all over the world. As one of the first small resorts Secret Garden has been part of things from almost the first days. Today it’s upgraded but has lost none of the features that so charmed and captivated the earlier holidaymakers who came to the island.
Dimitri Waring
____________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7724 5255. www.secretgardensamui.com
HAND-MADE JEWELRY MADE TO ORDER. GOLD, SILVER, LEATHER, PRECIOUS AND SEMI PRECIOUS STONES. TWO LOCATIONS IN CHAWENG: 1ST: CHAWENG BEACH ROAD, PHONE: +(66)0 7742 2594 2ND: CENTRAL FESTIVAL SAMUI 2ND FLOOR, PHONE: +(66)0 7796 3811 WWW.THAILAND-JEWELRY.COM Nature Art Gallery Central Festival Samui CHAWENG BEACH ROAD
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THE THINKING MAN’S
INDIAN Noori India doesn’t just make super food; it’s where to go for an entertaining conversation, too!
Let’s just think about this . . . you go out to eat. You choose your restaurant and take your place. You order what you want. You relax. You eat and drink. You spend a pleasant hour chatting to your partner. Then you leave. You’ve enjoyed the food and the laid-back conversation. The ambiance has been pleasant. The service has been good and the cost a nice surprise. All of this is quite normal. It encapsulates the typical, quality-dining experience that’s to be found just about everywhere. But, excellent though it is, there’s something missing. The personal touch. To be fair, this doesn’t really figure so much on the list of items in the dining equation. And, unless you’re a member of some kind of private dining club back home, you probably won’t be looking for it. But here at Wining & Dining we get to meet all sorts. Some we just interview, make notes, then write a story. However, there’s one restaurant that’s been here for a very long time. We’ve all got to know the part-owner and manager. And we’ve watched him in action, at work, mingling with his customers. He’s got the personal touch – and more. He’s gently friendly, openly pleasant and genuinely interested in people, in his unobtrusive way. Plus he’s thoughtful, witty and often extremely funny. His name is DD Pande. And his restaurant is Noori India. DD is not your run-of-the-mill restaurant manager. He was brought up in an academic atmosphere in Jodhpur, Rajasthan, and subsequently went on to gain a Master’s degree in Ancient History and Religion. But he’s also realistic and down-to-earth. Thus, over the course of time, also added further qualifications in hotel management and marketing. And before coming to Samui, not only lectured at the University of Jaipur and became a published author, but also worked in the hospitality industry, setting-up and managing hotels and conventions. The story of his exodus to Samui is a saga in its own right, and too wordy to be outlined here. But suffice it to say he came here temporarily to help his brother. And, as with so many others, ended up staying. Although the name of Noori has been around on Samui for well over a decade, it’s actually passed through several incarnations prior to that 54 l www.samuiholiday.com
which you’ll see today. Today there are three restaurants bearing this name: there’s one in southern Chaweng next to Chaweng Cove, and another in the Central Festival food court. But the longest-running and, some would say, the original Noori, remains in place on Chaweng Beach Road, in-between McDonald’s and Central Festival. That’s where most of the original and long-serving staff are to be found. And, indeed, where you’ll find DD himself. Often in the morning, he’s taking one of his most-excellent Indian cooking classes, which run from 10:00 am until 1:00 pm. But in the late afternoon, you usually find him here, at the original Noori, gently girding his loins in preparation for the evening session. “For many people, even today,” DD observed, “Indian food is simply . . . Indian food. But it’s a big continent and can realistically be split into two. The south is warmer and the staple diet there is rice. But the northern region grows wheat, and this is where the flat cakes of ‘nan’ originate – and there are over 300 different sorts of these. And then there are two smaller regions; the Rajasthan area to the north west, and the ‘Seven Sisters’ area on the opposite side of the country, which includes Bangladesh. Rajasthan is mainly desert and cold for three months of the year, allowing the lengthy preparation of meat dishes. But the Bangladesh region is tropical and borders onto Burma, giving rise to flavours that are similar to our cuisine here in Thailand.” DD paused for a moment and chuckled. “But today it’s all fusion and confusion when it comes to Indian food. Take a favourite dish in England, Chicken Tikka Masala. It’s not a dish from India! After World War 2, there was a big emigration of Indians and Pakistanis to the UK, and they took their cuisine with them. But Chicken Tikka was too dry for the English. So somehow, it was combined with a curry sauce – masala. And, what about the ‘Balti’? The locals in England didn’t care for chicken cooked on the bone or want to wait for slow cooking. So traditional Pakistani methods became modified, resulting in chopped chicken with the usual sauces, but served fast in the bowl it was cooked in. It’s an evolved immigrant cuisine from the Midlands of England!”
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Noori has a wide selection of dishes from all over India, including the enigmatic ‘Balti’. But the speciality is the slow-cooking approach that is particular to the Rajasthan region. Indeed, this is one of the reasons that Noori has a reputation for being ‘the Indian’s Indian restaurant’ and why it’s become the first choice for catering for the numerous Indian wedding groups coming to Samui. This, and the fact that unlike some other ‘Indian’ eateries who employ chefs from Burma or Nepal, the chefs at Noori are from the Punjab – something that is immediately obvious to anyone familiar with the cuisine. Noori is able to cater for outside groups of up to 150 people, and has done so on numerous occasions. And for the veggies amongst you, although there are already many vegetarian dishes in Indian cuisine, DD has added a whole new section, in a smart new menu with lots of photos for illustration. Noori is not a 56 l www.samuiholiday.com
big restaurant, although there’s comfortably space for 60 diners. It’s open between the hours of 11.30 am and 11.30 pm – but I’d recommend getting there earlier rather than later. And the reason for this is not on the menu at all, as it’s DD himself. He gets busier later, helping out with orders and in the kitchen. Invite him over. Engage him in some friendly banter. See if you can get him rolling. The meal, you’ll have to pay for. But the little gems of philosophy and wit are free – courtesy of DD Pande at Noori India!
Rob De Wet
__________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7741 3315. www.nooriindiasamui.com
BRANCH 1 CHAWENG BEACH ROAD OPPOSITE SPAGO RESTAURANT
TEL: +66 831715733
BRANCH 2 CHAWENG BEACH ROAD NEXT TO CENTRAL FESTIVAL
WWW.MSCARINO.COM
BRANCH 3 THE WHARF SAMUI FISHERMAN’S VILLAGE
WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/MSCARINOO www.samuiholiday.com
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CORNU KOH-PIA
For a small island, Samui packs a punch when it comes to shopping.
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For some a vacation is about lazing on the beach. For others it’s about exploring the surroundings. And for others trying all the culinary delights of the country. But the urge will come over almost everyone to tear themselves away for a little bit of retail therapy. And Samui has lots to offer in that department. There are four main shopping areas on Samui: Nathon, Fisherman’s Village, Chaweng and Lamai. Nathon still retains a local feel about it, and you are more likely to find a bargain here. If you take a stroll down so-called Middle Street (sandwiched between the beach road and the main road) you’ll see some wonderful Chinese style houses that have been converted into shops selling handicrafts and clothes. At the southern end of Nathon there is an all-day fresh fruit and vegetable market. If you’ve timed your shopping trip for the late afternoon you are guaranteed a wonderful sunset over the harbour. And if you enjoy soaking up the local atmosphere there’s a nightly food market next to the pier. So after an afternoon of shopping it’s a great place to unwind with a cold drink and some food. You can buy everything from papaya salad to chicken on rice. Nathon pretty much closes down around 6:00 pm so don’t come here for shopping in the evening or you’ll be disappointed. You’ll
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find only the restaurants are open at night. Fisherman’s Village is being developed more and more and is attracting a number of fashion boutiques. The village has more of a European feel about it, with its beachside cafes and bars. You can buy pretty much the same souvenirs and clothes here as anywhere else on the island, though there are a few shops that have something a little different and quirky. However the pleasant surroundings make your shopping trip a very enjoyable one. If you enjoy food then you can’t go wrong if you come for an evening shopping trip and combine it with dinner at one of the many varied restaurants that line the beach road. And of course there is the recently completed shopping mall at The Wharf, with shops and restaurants aplenty. Chaweng is the most bustling of all the areas on the island, and that goes for shopping, too. Pretty much whatever you want in terms of clothing can be found here, from evening wear to bikinis, or even a tailor-made suit. There’s something for everyone and for every wallet. It’s a very busy place from early evening onwards, and great if you love the chatter of life going on all around you. At night, temporary stalls
selling all manner of things from tuk-tuks made from beer cans to knock-off watches are set up alongside the more upmarket boutiques. Bargaining is all part of the social interaction here. It’s expected that there’ll be some negotiation about the price, but it should all be done in a light-heartened fashion. The only places where bargaining isn’t expected are department stores, chain stores and some of the smaller boutiques with affixed price tags. If you don’t see price tags then try your hand at bargaining. While in Chaweng, don’t miss out on Central Festival, a new and popular mall, with shops, bars and restaurants. There are also the colourful and vibrant ‘walking streets’ which are outdoor markets held in the evenings. It’s a great way to pick up some souvenirs and mix with the local Thais. You can even enjoy live entertainment and a cocktail, yes a cocktail, albeit in a plastic beaker, while doing your shopping. And of course there’s food galore. As an island renowned for coconuts there are an abundance of coconut souvenirs on the island and you can find them in all the major shopping areas and the markets. Coconut bead necklaces are highly popular as
souvenirs. You can also find lamps fashioned out of coconuts and bowls made from the coconut shells and lacquered inside. And with the latest trend for coconut oil you’re in the right place to buy it! If you are more interested in art, then there are lots of studios dotted around the island where you can commission a painting or buy an original work. The canvas can easily be rolled up and taken back home to be framed there. Or how about another work of art, a tattoo? You’ll find artists in all the main areas. A great shopping experience for those up early enough are the morning markets. They aren’t the places for the latest fashion or accessories, as they sell mostly food. But they’re a wonderful Thai experience and you’re bound to come away with some wonderful fresh local fruit to enjoy. This is where you’ll get a glimpse of everyday Thai life. And that naturally includes the Thai spirit, too: the laughter, the chatter and the good-naturedness of the people as they buy their food for the day. This is an experience for anyone interested in the local food. And if you’re a photographer you’ll definitely want to be here. The colours, faces and the morning light are a great combination for some wonderful pictures.
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For those of you travelling with babies and toddlers shopping is probably your number one concern. Don’t worry. There’s no need to lug over huge supplies of diapers, formula or baby food. Samui has more than adequate supplies for all your baby needs, including all the necessities and all the fun stuff for the beach: arm bands, swimming goggles and beach balls. Entertainment for your toddler won’t be a problem. Perhaps like me you’re one of those die-hards that still like a good oldfashioned paperback and are worried about packing heavy novels to bring with you. No need to worry. There are a few bookstores on the island selling both new and used books. Most have a return policy which leaves more room in your suitcase. Your resort may also have a selection which you can make use of, though the selection tends to be much smaller. I could list all the things that you can buy on Samui, but there are just too many. Instead I’ll tell you about one popular souvenir, a lucky cat. Not a real cat you understand. You may see them when you go into a Thai store. They are usually on the counter with their paw moving backwards and forwards, beckoning customers, and hence money, into the shop. A few years ago a friend was visiting the island and had heard about the cats and so the search was on for nine cats, yes, she’d gotten orders for nine cats. There are a lot of superstitious people out there. But let me finish before you judge. At that time it seemed hard to come by the cats – though these days I see them everywhere. So we searched and finally got the nine cats. My friend was very happy and bags now fully packed with cats she set back off home. A few weeks later she excitedly rang to say a friend who’d received one of the cats had, out of the blue, come into a massive amount of money. Now was it the luck of the cat that brought the money or not? And what about the other eight people you may ask? Well it can’t hurt to take just one, can it, and see what happens? All in all, Samui is a great place to browse, and in a relaxed and unhurried way, you can always enjoy an indolent session of retail therapy.
Natalie Hughes 62 l www.samuiholiday.com
CHEAP AT TWICE
THE PRICE? There’s a dual-pricing system in Thailand – is this simple economics, or simply discrimination? I remember when I first went to Egypt. My wife’s cousin had married an Egyptian girl, and her folks had invited us over. They were lovely people, well-educated and with white collar jobs – but we were surprised at how small and shabby their apartment was. Of course, the thing at the top of our list was to see the King Tut exhibit at the Cairo Museum. But even though the family had lived in Cairo all their lives, they didn’t know where the museum was, or how to get to it. And when we finally made it, the admission prices clearly showed that foreigners were being charged five times more money to get in than the locals! We were fresh off the boat and we were instinctively expecting everything to be the same as we’d always been used to. It took us a while to realise that nations are different – and some more so than others. In fact everything, everywhere, had two sets of prices attached, from street food to air travel, and this was a policy, set right across the board, by the government, with two scales of charges established, printed and published for everything. The reasoning, of course, is straightforward and is a close parallel to Thailand in more ways than one. Like Egypt, Thailand is a nation which is comparatively much less prosperous than most Western countries. For example, the average wage in Germany is 4,300 baht a day in Thai money (2014 figures). But, the average wage for a Thai person is slightly less than 500 baht a day (as of January 2015). And so it would seem both rational and fair that visitors to Thailand, coming from more affluent countries, should be charged more for the privilege than their Thai counterparts.
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But this is where the arguments begin. Is it accurate or fair to assume that every single ‘farang’ (foreigner) can be lumped in the same boat and viewed accordingly? What about Westerners who live and work here, are legally employed by Thai companies and pay tax every month? Or the many foreign teachers, nearly all of whom are on exactly the same pay-scales as their Thai counterparts? It’s recently been publicly admitted by the Thai government that the collecting of income tax for the millions of self-employed Thai workers is a bit of a muddle, and the majority of these manage to avoid paying any tax at all. But all foreigners are scrupulously inspected, need a work permit, and are taxed on a minimum earnings scale of 50,000 baht a month, whether they earn as much as this or not. Is this reasonable? The fact of the matter is, much like my distant in-laws in Egypt, the vast majority of Thai people are too busy working or raising families to go around visiting palaces or golden temples. Most family members also don’t know where such places are, exactly. But the basis of dual pricing goes deeper than merely economics. Thailand is culturally and historically very insular. This has led to a national unity and a deep sense of national pride and patriotism. And, hard though it sounds, anyone outside of this will always be a farang, no matter what his or her personal circumstances might be. And why not? Think back to your own country and the situation with immigrants. On the whole, all immigrants tend to be lumped together for conversational purposes, isn’t that so? And it’s the same in Thailand. It doesn’t matter that you might have a Thai wife and children and have been living here for 20 years, or how many Thai friends you have. When you’re sitting in conversation with them and your name comes up, they won’t refer to you by name. It’ll be, “ . . . the farang said this,” or, “. . . the farang did that”. But here’s the point: it’s normal! To understand the Thai nation and its people is to know that there’s no malice or rejection in this, it’s just the way things are, and always have been.
And then, look carefully at those places, like national parks, where a dual-pricing system is in place. In terms of percentages it might sound outrageous that the foreigner’s price is 300% more than a Thai national. But, come on! In reality it’s not a huge difference. And, really, this kind of idealistic quibble is less to do with money and more about a lingering feeling of being discriminated against. But what’s the alternative? It makes no sense to raise all the prices to the ‘foreigner’ level, thus deterring the Thai people from being able to access historical sites of their own heritage. And it’s equally unrealistic to lower everything down to just a few baht a head, down to the Thai pricing level. And so to the final aspect, often voiced by farangs living here – it’s not consistent. Foreigners are being overcharged a lot more by some merchants than others. Some places, restaurants in particular, have no dual prices. (Well, not obviously, anyway – although the overall pricing of the entire menu depends on the area and the mix of tourists, or not! Move one kilometre away and you might find all the food is half the price!) The Egyptian Government spent very many years rationalising a comprehensive 2-tier price system based on different types of goods and services, subdivided into dozens of sub-categories. It’s publicised and out on show for all to see. It’s mandatory, and vendors are fined for overcharging. And so the question remains – is it fair? It’s certainly the Thai way, and it’s hard to put the case that prices should be the same for all. Is it acceptable to find so much variation in farang prices? How do you feel when the Thai girl in front of you has just bargained a T-shirt down to 120 baht but the stall-holder won’t give you the same shirt for less than 300? Or a builder quotes you 50,000 baht more for a garage than he did for your Thai friend? Should it all be rationalised nationally or is it just the way things are? So many questions! Can you come up with the answers?
Rob De Wet 66 l www.samuiholiday.com
HANSAR
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PART OF THE ART The extraordinary world of Art Samui.
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You might not want to admit it, but almost all of us have a secret hankering to be an action hero and to be cresting an adrenalin wave while in hair-raising situations. After all, excitement is something that’s in our blood, and if we’re reining ourselves in, then we’re going to find life becomes pretty hum-drum after a while. Of course, it’s possible to pursue a daring life and be subject to great danger and all the ups and downs that living on the edge provides. It’s guaranteed that you’ll never have a dull moment again. But – and this is the problem – you’ll be swapping it for frequent doses of terror.
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Improbable as it seems, this is where art can come to your aid. You can step into a more exciting life but one that’s safe and where there’s no fear at all. Art Samui allows you to play out many different roles in a wide variety of situations. It might not raise your heartbeat as much as the real thing, but it’ll certainly provide oodles of fun. And, well, it might just turn out to be more than the sum of its parts, but we’ll come to that later. When you step into Art Samui, you’re entering a different world altogether, one that’s comprised of endless optical illusions, tricks and bizarre settings. This isn’t the result of computer technology, but relies on
good old fashioned paintings, but done so well that everything appears real - at least in photographs. And this is what Art Samui is all about. Stand in front of the paintings, get your friend, partner or family member to take your photo, and the results will appear extremely real. In one photo, you’ll be stepping across a chasm, in another walking on the moon, and in still yet another happily lying on a bedroom ceiling. How is all this possible? The people at Art Samui commissioned a painter to produce life-like backgrounds against which you can be
photographed. Each setting has instructions on how to pose to get the most realistic photograph. Markers on the ground show you where to stand and once you’ve clicked away a few times you’ll be astonished how life-like the photos turn out to be. It’s basically a lot of fun, and with some 70 paintings to pose against, there are endless possibilities. On average it’ll take about an hour and a half to get round the entire gallery – but you’ll hardly notice the time anyway, because you’ll be so engaged in what you’re doing.
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The concept of trick paintings has been around for some time, and was popular in travelling fairs, but Art Samui takes the illusions to the next level. The owners were originally inspired by the trick art of various galleries in their native Korea. They saw people having a lot of fun in such places, and wanted to create something similar on Samui. They’ve certainly succeeded and their gallery is a massive, roomy affair up in Choeng Mon. It looks every bit like an art gallery with high white walls, and once inside, the many different rooms, all with their ‘paintings’. The building is both sophisticated and laid-back at the same time, but it’s dedicated to sheer fun. It’s definitely not like any art gallery you’ve ever been in before. You’re no longer a spectator; instead, you’re part of the picture. Without you, these are just strange, bemusing tableaux that have little meaning. Some people might say that this is just a gimmick – after all, it’s not real – but when you’re actually taking part, and you’ll want to once you get inside, you’ll find the experience is oddly liberating. For once, you can really relax and enjoy yourself, and as you proceed, taking on more and more parts, you’ll have no option but to adapt quickly to each new situation you find yourself in. Without even realizing it, your mind will get a mental workout and you’ll leave behind your usual self and your usual life. Unless you’re a trapeze artist or a stunt person in real life, you’re bound to
find a couple of hours at Art Samui are a very exhilarating experience. Children enjoy it as much as adults do. There are jungles, dinosaurs, huge fish, and all manner of adventures to be had. But unless you’re of age, avoid the adult room where you can enjoy being part of erotic scenes (it certainly gives a new definition to the cliché of ‘faking it’). Art Samui is open daily from 10:00 am until 9:00 pm and you’ll find it in Choeng Mon. Drive up the beach road at Chaweng, heading north, and simply keep on going (don’t take the airport turning) and you’ll find it some five kilometres out of town, on your right. Alternatively, you can call for the very reasonably-priced pick-up service and go there and back in a private car (available in Chaweng, Lamai and Maenam). There’s also a beautiful contemporary café, offering tea, coffee, drinks and ice-cream, where you can sit inside an air-conditioned room or outside on a grassy terrace. If your camera doesn’t work or you’ve forgotten it, then Art Samui has its own professional photographer who will take photos of you, again at a very reasonable price, photo-shop them and give them to you on a CD or memory stick. And last but not least, if you come alone, then staff will photograph you for free – and you’ll end up with some strange and wonderful shots for your family and friends.
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Good art always leaves you feeling in some way different; it always adds to who you are. Art Samui may not follow the pattern of galleries the world over, but it will leave you feeling very different. And it might just give you some ideas for a new departure in your life. Whatever happens, the fun’s guaranteed.
Dimitri Waring
_____________________________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 611 807 331 or 0 611 807 332. www.art-samui.com
This is the original health destination on Koh Samui offering only the best Vegetarian, Raw and Healthy Thai Food. Listed as one of the 50 best restaurants in the world. Over 17 years serving the freshest mouthwatering healthy food. Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner. Daily @ both locations 7:00 am until 9:30 pm. Radiance is a part of The Spa Resorts.
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RESTAURANT DISGUISED You might think Drink Gallery is just a bar, until you see the food. Appearances can be deceptive. Usually the expression applies to people, and the way they turn out to be the opposite of what we thought them to be. But it can also apply to places, as well. We look at them, sum them up, label them, only to step inside and realise we were wrong from the start. I made that mistake with Drink Gallery, sure that it’d just be a chic place for über-expensive cocktails and little in the way of food. Drink Gallery turns out, however, to be a restaurant rather than simply a bar. The fact is that though they do drinks here – we’ll come to them later, as they’re excellent – this is really somewhere to eat. It’s one of those places that looks expensive from the outside, but surprisingly isn’t. The décor’s both chic and daring, verging on the avant garde. It oozes creativity and sophistication, so you’d be forgiven for thinking it’s going to cost an arm and a leg once you’re inside. But once I looked at the prices I found that they’re entirely affordable. Think 350 Baht – but for food that’s tasty and filled with quality ingredients. As you can see, so far, nothing about the place is quite as you’d expect it to be. It’s attached to The Library, a resort featuring minimalist rooms set in a green lawn amidst old trees with a swimming pool that has deep-red tiling throughout. It’s quirkily conceived and definitely original. But back to Drink Gallery. You can choose to sit outside on wooden decking and be right there to witness street action at its most vibrant, or sit in the large air-con cube of a dining room with stylish seating, a mix of casual tables for couples and long wooden ones for groups. Drink Gallery’s easy to find by the way; if you head down Chaweng Beach Road, you’ll come to it about 200 metres after Central Festival (where you can park your car, if you’re bringing one). Opening hours are from 4:00 pm until 1:00 am. If you like people-watching then any evening here will net you at least a couple of extraordinary sights. As if that weren’t enough, Drink Gallery puts on entertainment every night, in the form of a band or a DJ. 76 l www.samuiholiday.com
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Located on the tropical stretch of golden sands and turquoise waters off Koh Samui’s up market Bophut bay, Beach Bar offers wide variety of cocktails, champagne, wines, snacks, delicious home made ice cream and freshly blended fruit drink Come and join our happy hour as day turns to dusk before strolling down to the quaint cobblestone ‘Bophut Fisherman village’ Good things come in three, enjoy our Happy Hours daily at
01:30 - 02:30 pm 06:30 - 07:30 pm 09:30 - 10:30 pm
- buy one get one free -
The menu was crafted by Chef Noi Ouypornchaisakul, who hails from Bangkok but spent many years in New York, where she learned cooking. Her style isn’t east meets west, but vice versa; she’s taken a mix of New American food and given it a Thai/Asian spin. The results: mostly familiar dishes made still yummier. Try the Samui-Rangoon, a starter, where cream cheese is blended with crab, and accompanied by a lemongrass dip. She’s also taken a few Thai dishes and given them a makeover. You’ve probably tried Massaman curry, but here it’s made using lamb, in this case Australian lamb shoulder. They also have bar snacks (you don’t necessarily have to indulge in a full-scale meal here), including sandwiches, burgers and waffles. In other words, there’s plenty to choose from. The food at Drink Gallery is seriously tasty and you’ll want to try out everything on the menu. It’s hard to resist tucking in here, especially given the fact that the vast majority of dishes are so affordable. There are a few fancier ones thrown in such as natural grass-fed Australian beef tenderloin. It comes with corn-ricotta dumplings, sautéed onions and peppers, and mozzarella chipotle. There’s naturally a choice when it comes to desserts. They don’t really come much more decadent than the Dark Chocolate Pot de Crème. The cream on top is misleadingly frothy, while the chocolate underneath is an addict’s delight. The two combined make this a dish that you’ll remember for the sheer pleasure of eating something so sinful. Suffice to say that if you’re part of a group you’ll want to dip into each other’s choices just to see how good they are. You won’t be disappointed. It’d be a serious challenge to eat two desserts, even though you may be keen to do so.
HANSAR SAMUI
101/27-28 Moo 1, Bophut Koh Samui 84320 Thailand +66 77 245 511 | www.hansarsamui.com
Drink Gallery’s also has a cheese platter and it’s well worth indulging in, too, not just because it’s relatively rare on Samui, but also because it’s been put together so well. It comes with brie, parmesan, gorgonzola, gruyere and feta – all presented with green and black olives, crackers and sticks of celery to munch on. Last but not least Drink Gallery also does, yes, drinks - and it’s time to mention these. They’re spectacular. Even if you’re not a big fan of cocktails you may end up becoming one. I ordered The Parch and was told that the waiter would be on the way to prepare it at my table. I thought I was going to have to watch some kind of juggling act, but it was way more original than that; the waiter came pushing a wooden trolley and holding up, of all things, a blowtorch. Surely he wasn’t about to show off his welding skills? But he soon set to, torching some grapefruit and thereby caramelizing it before it was placed in a glass jar. In went the other ingredients, including limes and hazelnut syrup, before he began pounding the mix to a pulp. Once it was completed, he produced a tube with a trigger that looked like a child’s fat toy gun, lit the blowtorch once more, and placed the flame into an aperture of the gun-like machine, which ended in a kind of hose. Smoke started pouring out of it; thick white smoke that I thought must be dry ice. The waiter stuck the tube into the glass jar until the air over the cocktail was billowing white smoke. Then he handed the jar to me. As jars go, this one was big, by anyone’s standards. It was also still smoking. And it wasn’t dry ice, by the way, but the real thing. Smoke, and in this case, wood smoke. I asked how it was done and the waiter produced a small jar of tiny wood chips that the label said had been scented with apple. It was like the smoke of a garden fire, the kind where you burn wood that’s mulched down over a long, dry summer. And it had infused the drink itself, giving that autumnal note to an already utterly original taste. I think it’ll be a drink I long remember. A drink that tasted of autumn: bitey and poignant. There are plenty of traditional cocktails, by the way, and you don’t have to get experimental. For many drinks you can also order ‘monsters’. The drink arrives in a glass container that can only be described as flower-vase size. Presumably it’s for a group of people to drink together; as an individual you’d need to time your consumption not with a watch but a calendar. Yes, it’s that big. Monster sums it up. There are also plenty of beers, wines and every other kind of drink you can imagine. Drink Gallery turns out to be a surprising and wonderful place. There’s nothing quite like it on Samui and it’s definitely worth a visit or three. Enjoy the way they’ve mixed decadence with seriously good food and drink.
Dimitri Waring
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Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort & Spa 154 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach, Bophut, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84320 Tel: +66 77 231 500 Mob: +66 81 751 6073 Fax: +66 77 231 520 Email: info@baanhaadngam.com, booking@baanhaadngam.com, www.baanhaadngam.com
Romantic views, soothing sounds and classic Italian fare with a modern approach combine to please the most discerning diner. Olivio - a must for visitors and locals alike. Olivio ~ beachfront at Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort Chaweng Beach. Free round trip transfer from Chaweng, Bophut and Choeng Mon. For reservation please call 0 7723 1500
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CORE CONCEPTS Absolute Sanctuary’s latest ideas put fitness well within your reach.
Now in its seventh year, Absolute Sanctuary is an immensely popular spa, and people come here from all over the world. Some come for their detox programs, others for yoga or Pilates and still others for the anti-stress and burnout packages. Of course, you can always come for a simple spa session – they do excellent massages here. It’s called a sanctuary because it’s exactly that, a place to get away from the world where you can concentrate on the essentials and get a new understanding of how to feel fitter, healthier and more relaxed. For some people, it’s going to be a turning point in their lives coming here, while others are simply going to come for the benefit of having an increased sense of wellbeing. Absolute Sanctuary is located north of Chaweng; follow Chaweng Beach Road north, bend round to the right and carry on past the airport turn-off until you see the sign. The spa could easily keep to its repertoire. After all, it’s got to that stage where many institutions might just want to rest on their laurels. But Absolute Sanctuary remains sharp to its purpose, and is always improving on what it offers, adding on important new additions to its already extensive programmes. It’s been able to do this due to its unique position as part of the successful Absolute Yoga Group that operates Absolute Yoga, Absolute Pilates and Absolute Fit Food in Bangkok. I spoke to Claire Bostock-Huang about Absolute Sanctuary’s newest add-
ons. Claire’s a prominent figure at Absolute Sanctuary, and used to be a banker before she got into yoga, and decided to become a teacher. This led her to Bangkok where she started working with Absolute Yoga. The group asked her to help set up Absolute Sanctuary on Samui, and she’s been deeply involved with it ever since. “We’ve introduced two exercise systems that we already have in Bangkok and have run there successfully for more than five years.” says Claire: “These are Group Core Suspend and Group Pilates Reformer classes.” Unless you’re familiar with the physical fitness world, then these terms won’t mean anything to you. Claire gives a very succinct explanation: “People are looking for more fitness in their holidays. Often they recognize they need to strengthen their core.” She explains that ‘core’ is often misunderstood. It doesn’t just mean those six-pack abs you’re trying to get or keep; it’s more than that. It’s the whole girdle of muscles that stretch round your mid-section. Says Claire, “Think of the area that a typical corset covers – that’s the core. It also includes the oblique muscles and those of the back. Sure, you’ll look a lot better if you don’t have a paunch, but it’s more than just how your waistline looks.” Once the core is strong and well-developed, then – exactly as the word suggests – you have the fundamentals correct; balance and posture are going to be much better, and you’ll already be fitter and really feel it.
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Claire goes on to say, “Absolute Pilates in Bangkok invented the Pilates Reformer GX (group experience) classes, and we brought the concept and the programming to the resort. We are also the first to bring to Thailand the Group Core Suspend classes, with our own unique programming. Due to the popularity and trend of fitness holidays, and our success with these exercise systems in Bangkok, we decided to transfer these and introduce them at the resort on Samui. Pilates are traditionally done one-on-one with the instructor, but now we have the reformer machines, which boost performance and efficiency. This means you can get seriously fit in a shorter time than you would normally.” The machines look difficult to fathom out, and aren’t anything like the traditional machines you see in gyms. And there are no weights either. Thirty minutes is all it takes to become familiar with them, what they can do and how they can help you. A foundation session is therefore a must before you get started. Classes after that are an hour long. “Absolute Pilates has transformed the way Pilates is taught, by teaching group reformer classes with safe and effective programs to target various parts of your body such as abs and arms, butt and thigh or the whole body. It’s effectively resistance training,” says Claire. “The key to working out on the reformer is that your muscles become longer as you work them both concentrically and eccentrically, with the resistance from the spring pulley system of the reformer machine, allowing you to achieve a long, lean and toned body which is what everyone wants to have.” Absolute Sanctuary’s Group Core Suspend, meanwhile, is a system that 84 l www.samuiholiday.com
is akin to TRX training, except there are two separate straps, rather than just the one. Again, it’s a very efficient way to get fit, and a lot more pleasant than being at a traditional gym. Classes for Group Core Suspend and Group Pilates Reformer are held every day except Saturday, with four classes per day. The classes may be general or target specific areas. They’re held in the Reformer Studio, an air-cooled minimalist room. Classes are limited to six people for the Group Pilates Reformer and four for Group Core Suspend, so if you’re interested, you’ll certainly need to book in advance. Absolute Sanctuary has also upped the ante regarding the food in their restaurant, the Love Kitchen. Says Claire, “The concept we have introduced in the Love kitchen is a Superfoods Menu inspired by Absolute Fit Food in Bangkok. The Love Kitchen previously focused on spa cuisine, but with the introduction of our new Superfoods Menu it has brought healthy dining to a new level. It does this by focusing on premium ingredients such as superfoods, wholefoods, hormone-free meats, oceancaught fish, and so on. All sauces and dressings are homemade.” This is food that’s totally good for you and will promote your fitness. After all, what’s the good of doing sport, yoga and boosting your stamina and muscles if you then indulge in mediocre food? And we’re not simply talking about Coke and doughnuts here, but food that may appear healthy, but which can still be rather poor. Take Caesar salad, for example. Most people would rank that as something healthy to eat,
Nora Buri SH Sep - Oct 2015
B a r g e & Te r r a c e
Fine Beachside Dining at The Rice Barge & Terrace Authentic Thai Cuisine Daily A La Carte and Thai Set Dinner but it can certainly be improved on. Look at the dressing - that’s definitely not so healthy. At Absolute Sanctuary, the Caesar dressing for their Chicken Caesar Roll uses chia seeds and yoghurt to give the same flavour, but make it good for you. A stark difference from the typical fatty version made from eggs and mayonnaise. Absolute Sanctuary, by the way, uses spelt flour as it’s easier to digest and causes less inflammation of the gut than wheat flour. The restaurant’s menu will win you over; you can also try a three-course tasting menu. It’ll make you realize that even if your diet is, say, 80% healthy, you can boost that statistic fairly easily and without sacrificing on taste. Particularly recommended are signature dishes, such as Absolute Seafood Quinoa Paella, 3-Bean Quinoa Salad, BLT burrito, and Slim Quinoa Porridge. If you visit Absolute Sanctuary, you’ll find plenty of inspiration on both the food and fitness fronts. Unless you really have studied both in great depth, you’re bound to come away with new ideas or even a whole new perspective on how to maximise your health. And they’ll show you that it’s not difficult to go to the next level of fitness and healthy eating.
Dimitri Waring
_______________________________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 7760 1190. www.absolutesanctuary.com
No visit to Samui is complete until you have dined at The Rice Barge & Terrace
Rice Barge & Terrace Nora Buri's Signature Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: ricebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com
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ON YOUR
BIKE! The humorous guide to riding a motorbike in Thailand
Make sure you have some experience of riding a bike before you tackle jumping on one here, and weaving your way through rush hour traffic to your next portion of noodle soup and a Chang beer. Thailand is not the place to learn to ride a bike unless you’re willing to risk becoming part of the ever growing statistics of dead and injured. Ensure you have a good sense of balance and co-ordination. Do you know how to ride a bicycle? Riding a motorbike is just the same...except it’s faster...and you have an accelerator...and mirrors... Okay, it’s nearly the same - it has a seat and two wheels. Remain calm at all times. Did someone pull out in front of you? Did someone brake suddenly or drive towards you on a one way street? What do you do in this instance? You smile and you keep driving. You will never see road rage from a Thai driver and neither will they understand it, if you display it. You have a family of six and you can’t afford a car, no problem. Simply put them all on the bike because motorbikes are built for transporting small families. One child in the basket on the front, one standing on the foot rest, you driving, another small child squeezed behind you and then your partner on the back with another child under each arm. Oh wait, that’s seven. Oh well, you see? It is possible!
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Do not assume that Western driving rules apply in Thailand. At a fourway stop, the rule is not ‘first to arrive is first to go’. The rule (mostly) is, ‘there’s a gap, and I’m going for it’. Be prepared for this, be decisive, check twice in every direction with your three pairs of eyes and go when there’s a gap. Fancy making friends with a police officer or learning first-hand about Thai law? No, me neither. Make sure your license is in order, you’re allowed to drive the vehicle you’re driving and you are following basic road rules. And no, that doesn’t mean you can drive down a one way and pull out dangerously in front of people because the locals do it. They’ve been doing it since they were eight years old, and have a little more experience than you. On the subject of age, as soon as children in Thailand are old enough to spell, they’re old enough to learn how to ride a bike. Okay, that might be a slight exaggeration, but the legal age to ride a bike in Thailand is eight. Imagine that? Most Western kids are fighting over which PlayStation game to play with and Thai kids are out gaining years of experience of how to dodge anything from a chicken, buffalo or inexperienced foreigner on the road. (It’s actually 15, but it certainly doesn’t appear that way.) Indicators are mostly for decoration only. Don’t be surprised if a local suddenly turns in front of you without using their indicator. If you’re caught
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unaware, it merely means you need to concentrate harder and pay more attention to the other riders on the road. You might see some locals driving with their signal on constantly. This is merely done to confuse you and to ensure that you pay better attention to what they’re doing. You’ve got mirrors on your bike for a reason and the goal is to try and see how many times you can use them without pulling a muscle in your neck. You absolutely have to use them driving in Thailand as anything can happen at any time and without any warning. Checking less than 50 times a second means you aren’t prepared for what Thailand will throw at you that day. Besides large families, bikes are made to carry a whole multitude of things. Strange things have been spotted being carried on a bike such as large televisions; animals of various sizes (poodles or chickens in the basket, Labradors in the foot rest); furniture in various shapes and sizes and in Hat Yai a passenger was spotted holding an IV drop which was, yes, you guessed it, attached to the driver. Please do not try this (any of these, not just the IV drip), you will most certainly break the television, squash the animals and damage the furniture. Concentrate on learning to actually ride the bike safely before attempting anything too adventurous. Have you ever been ten pin bowling? What’s this got to do with riding a motorbike in Thailand, you might ask? Have you watched the professionals do this? That ball flies down the lane and smashes into
those skittles with the force of a, well, fast-moving bowling ball. If you were to let the ball slowly trickle down the lane, it’s hardly going to do much damage. Can you see where I’m going here? If you go fast and you crash, you’re going to do some serious damage, only you’re not a bowling ball, you’re made of bones and skin … and so are the people you’ll crash into. This statement might start a debate, but speed does kill. Helmets. Don’t even get me started on helmets. These are not for decoration; they are to stop your head and brain from splattering all over the streets and causing a danger to other drivers. I’ve never understood why people choose not to wear them. Am I the only one who has seen horror movies which show how fragile our heads are? Our heads are not indestructible, not matter how much we might think they are. They will crack, they will split and it will hurt - if we live long enough to feel it, that is. Wear your helmet! So pay attention, concentrate, enjoy your holiday … and make it out alive.
Colleen Setchell
Fine Beachfront Dining serving Thai, Seafood & International Cuisine. Chaweng Beach Road Chaweng North Tel: 0 7742 9400 Fax: 0 7742 9498 E-mail: reservation@norabeachresort.com www.norabeachresort.com
FITNESS FOUNDATION
Going to the gym’s a pleasure again, thanks to Elite Gym and Fitness.
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We all have dreams and the big ones might seem impossible. At least at first. Many of us get waylaid – if we ever get started on them, that is. But often those who just keep going surprise themselves and exceed their dreams. A while ago, a long-term resident on Samui, Magnus Rydlund, had the dream of building a gym. Not just any gym – they already existed on the island. He wanted one that would be exactly the kind of place where he’d feel totally at home while exercising. This wouldn’t seem difficult to achieve: after all, anybody with a bit of money can rent some space, fill it with exercise machines, weights, some mirrors, and so on, and open shop – not really much different to what so many of us do with our garages. But Magnus wanted more than that – a lot more. He wanted a truly professional gym which would give its members a solid foundation for fitness. And he wanted it to be fun. Somewhere that would be a pleasure to go to. Over time, he built his dream gym, along with two partners Nico and Sebastian, painstakingly turning it into what it is today. It’s now informally ranked by many a gym aficionado as the best gym of its kind in the South of Thailand. If you live on the island, you may have seen it already. It’s 250 metres from Tesco Lotus in Chaweng. At the traffic lights just south of Tesco turn off the ring-road, and head in the direction of the sea. Follow the road about 150 metres. On the left side you will see the gym. It’s hard to miss. It’s big, looks much like a warehouse, and the word ‘gym’ is written in enormous stencilled letters over its entrance. Once inside, you’ll immediately see why it is so popular. It’s very spacious and it has an abundance of equipment; you’ll instantly realize you won’t ever have to waste time queueing up for machines here, hoping the person in front of you will be quick. Take a closer look at the equipment and
you’ll see it’s extraordinarily well maintained. You’ll also realize that there are more types of machine here than you’d see in many other gyms, regardless of where you are in the world. Some you may not even recognize as they’re very specialized. Some are modern-style machines which are simply safer than older styles. He’s also gone one step further, customizing some of them so that the angles are slightly different and will thereby exercise slightly different muscles. The gym opens at 6:30 am – a rarity on Samui – allowing you to get in your routine before you start work or do anything else. Not into weights? There’s plenty more going on here at the gym. You’ll find cardio machines, ideal if you’re a runner or just want to boost your aerobic stamina. In addition there are various classes in the mornings – these change according to the month and season – but there’s something going on here just about every day, except Sundays. Classes tend to focus on strengthening, conditioning and there are also boot camps. If you’re new to gyms, it can be a bewildering experience when you first step into one. You won’t be able to fathom out how to use much of the equipment. At Magnus’ gym though, you’ll always find someone who can show you how to operate the machines. Often there are trainers around, but there’s certainly always a staff member to help you. “It’s like a family here,” says Magnus, “we’re welcoming and help people whenever they need it.” Indeed, it has that kind of feel to it; you won’t meet with aggressive tendencies that you might in some gyms. If you need a personal trainer, you can always find one here. Let the staff know what kind of goals you have and they’ll be able to suggest the appropriate person, whether you’re new to gyms or not. Elite has pretty much every kind of trainer from body building through to general fitness. Some train professional athletes back in their home countries.
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Magnus fulfilled his dream and his gym has a seriously good reputation. Being a sportsman, he soon went after the next dream: opening a second gym. And, no, it isn’t a clone of the first. It’s completely different. You’d never think the same person was behind both. Magnus has a multiple personality when it comes to building gyms. The second is air-conditioned, and gone is the warehouse look; this one looks like the kind of gym you’d find in a cosmopolitan city. It’s located above McDonald’s in the centre of Chaweng Beach Road, and is called Elite Gym and Fitness Exclusive. It has a sauna and more chill-out facilities, and caters for fitness across the board. You’ll find, for example, very popular spinning classes here, and there’s a circular area devoted to x-fit machinery. But as with Magnus’ other gym, you’ll find plenty of trainers 94 l www.samuiholiday.com
who can help you go up to the next levels of fitness as well as a sports masseur. Again, it’s a friendly, welcoming place and there’s no need to be anxious if you’re new to the world of gyms. Both gyms have a pro-nutrition centre, run by friends of Magnus – they can help you with a range of fitness and health supplements. In the gym, you’ll come across a sign. It’s a quote. It’s written in big letters on the wall, for everyone to see. It says: ‘Take care of your body. It’s the only place you have to live in’. What a way to sum up what the gym’s about. In these days of surgery and expert doctors, most of the time often we can take our damaged bodies for repair. But we can’t – yet – replace an entire body. So it pays to look after it, give it exercise
KHAO SOK
The Cliff and River Jungle Resort
Come and Relax with us at The Cliff and River Jungle Resort in magnificent Khao Sok. Enjoy the natural beauty and fresh air at this Scenic Riverside location. Sightseeing Info - Canoeing - International Restaurant Luxury Recreation Facilities - Elephant Trekking
for more information and reservation please call 0 872 718 787, 0 812 721 221, 0 7791 3050 Fax. 0 7791 3099 www.thecliffandriver.com
rather than lead a sedentary life. This is what Magnus’ gyms are here for. The real goal is to be a healthy you, the best you that is possible. It’s all about challenging yourself. Magnus has turned his dreams into reality and you’ll probably find that what he’s built will neatly dovetail with your own dreams.
P. CHAWENG GUEST HOUSE
100 ISLANDS RESORT
Located at the end of Soi Colibri, opposite Centara Grand Beach Resort. Thai owned and managed, offering the beauty of Thai style architecture combined with European comforts.
The first boutique hotel in Suratthani. Reasonably priced with friendly service and a family atmosphere. Relax by the pool or ease your tensions at the luxurious spa.
Dimitri Waring
_______________________________________________________ For further information telephone 0 7730 0759 (Elite Gym and Fitness) or 0 7731 0407 (Elite Gym and Fitness Exclusive) www.elitegymsamui.com
Recommended by Lonely Planet
Tel.: 0 7723 0684
Tel.: 0 7720 1150-8
CUTTING-EDGE W I T H O U T C U T T I N G! A look at Bangkok Samui Hospital Clinic’s revolutionary new process at Central Festival. There’s been a quiet revolution in the last few years. Word has spread. In Europe, America and Australia surgery is expensive. Even vital operations are put into a queue as national health services have become strained to breaking point, and yet private alternatives are priced beyond reach. But not so in Thailand. The top international hospitals are now as good as any in the West. Their equipment and standards are world-class. Their specialists and surgeons have trained and qualified abroad and have international standing. And every year tens of thousands of visitors come to Thailand to take advantage of this, on what have now become known as ‘medical vacations’. Bangkok Samui International Hospital is probably the island’s most prestigious medical institution, partnered with sister hospitals throughout the country. And for quite a while now they have been at the forefront of medical tourism in Thailand, even running linked after-care schemes whereby patients can opt to transfer and recuperate in beachside surroundings. Their expansive modern facility on Samui is imposing; elevated and set back behind a sweeping lawn on a broad frontage on Chaweng’s main ring-road. But, of course, it’s also where they receive accident and emergency victims. Thus, bearing in mind the broad division of care and treatments – emergency and aesthetic – a decision was taken to decentralise some aspects. It was prompted by the appearance on the island of Central Festival Samui mall in March last year. One part of this modern and airy shopping precinct is dedicated to health and wellbeing, upstairs on the first floor at the northern end, past Tops Supermarket and the food court. And the Bangkok Clinic is prominently on the front corner here, overlooking the plaza area below, impossible to miss. It’s modern, bright, and equipped to the best of international standards, as you’d expect. Essentially, it’s offering a number of cosmetic aesthetics, with laser, Botox and filler procedures, and a variety of beauty treatment packages. It even offers advice and analysis on food allergies. But it’s also now hosting one of the most revolutionary rejuvenation processes to have appeared in decades. Think about what happens when you age. Skin becomes stretched and begins to sag. Wrinkles appear as it does so. Hoods and bags start to frame your eyes. Muscle tone loosens. And this is nowhere more noticeable than on your face – after all, it’s right out in front of you, it’s the first thing that other people see and it’s what stares back at you each day from the mirror. But for the last half-a-century, the only practical thing you could do about this was undergo invasive surgery. It was a case of grin and bear it; there was no alternative. And the price you paid for taking ten years off your face was pain, stitches, black eyes, swelling, discomfort and several weeks avoiding your friends and workmates until the ‘car crash’ look started to wear off. If you were lucky, no nerves or muscles were damaged. If you were unlucky . . .
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Nautilus X2 SH Sep -Oct 2015
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Ultrasound – high-frequency sound waves – has been used in various medical procedures for a long time – it’s by no means a new technology. Most commonly it’s experienced by pregnant women when their unborn baby is being monitored and checked. Or for evaluating the condition of the heart and other internal organs. Or even joints. All of these techniques create ultrasound images. But there are different sorts of ultrasound. And it’s now been discovered that low-frequency ultrasound has a very interesting effect on skin tissue. The clinic’s director is Dr Norachak Koomchamnarn “The skin has four layers,” he explained. “The thin outer layer is the epidermis. It sits on top of a thicker region of dermis. Under that is a layer of fat and connective tissue. And it’s all bonded onto a thicker or thinner layer of muscle tissue beneath. Strings of collagen exist in the top two layers of dermis and epidermis, like a net of rubber bands. And as we age, this begins to reduce, making the skin become looser and less springy. The tight smoothness of youthful skin gives way to the wrinkled surface and sagging layers of middle age. But . . . ultrasound, applied in the correct way, re-vitalises the collagen bands, replenishing them and increasing their effectiveness again. In practice, this means the skin becomes tighter once more. Some of the wrinkles smooth out. Much of the bagginess – the jowls and saggy chins – reduce because of this. As one surgeon said on American TV, ‘It’s sci-fi meets beauty!’”
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on
But note that Dr Norachak said ‘some’ wrinkles go, and ‘much of the’ bagginess reduces. Because this is not an alternative to surgery. It won’t make a notable difference to advanced aging. But it’s just perfect for when all this has just begun to happen. In your late 40s and early 50s, when those crow’s feet, jowls and saggy chins start to appear. And here’s the best part of all. To do an entire facelift – forehead, around the eyes, mid-face/ cheeks, jaw-line and under-chin – takes a little over an hour. If you want just your jaw-line and under-chin sorting, then only 20 minutes or so. Painful? For most of it, just a bit of a tingle. But if it gets uncomfortable where there is a very thin skin layer, the forehead for instance, then a mild anaesthetic gel will be used.
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The ‘best part’ continues! There’s no downtime. No long recovery period. Just a mild swelling that’s gone after a day. But don’t expect to see any change immediately – the collagen will take up to 90 days to resurrect. And your friends probably won’tz notice the difference while this naturally and gradually happens. Until the day comes that one of them suddenly looks at you, frowns, and exclaims, “My God, what’s happened, you look ten years younger!” This rejuvenation will last for up to two years before the collagen slowly starts to revert. But it’s the most natural way to revitalise aging skin. And it works! Just Google ‘Ulthera’ or ‘Ultherapy’, and there are lots of You Tube features on it too. As an introduction to this new process, Bangkok Clinic is offering discount incentives of up to 20% for the first few months. Yes, it’s marginally more expensive than surgery. But when you weigh all the benefits, there’s no real comparison!
Our Siam Ten Senses Treatment focuses on the ten main senses in human body. Restoring body systems and improving the balance.
The clinic runs a shuttle bus between the main hospital and the clinic. It is also is offering clients a free pick-up and return to their hotel, in the Chaweng area.
Rob De Wet
__________________________________________________ For more information drop in at the clinic, or telephone 0 7742 9599.
Green Resort Green Spa Detoxifying and Slimming Program Healthy Thai Restaurant Natural Wing Health Spa & Resort 11/5 Moo 6, Maenam, Koh Samui, Thailand Tel: 0 7760 2111, 0 7760 2112 Fax: 0 7744 7243 Mobile: 0 819 682 796 Email: info@naturalwing.com, www.naturalwing.com
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BORN FREE A glimpse into what motivates Thailand’s ladyboys – the ‘third sex’.
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Thailand is unique. Well, almost! In today’s modern world, it is one of the few countries that have never been conquered or colonised. It has developed largely in isolation, and it’s a nation that has never been forced to absorb ‘foreign’ systems of government, law, commerce, language or culture. As a result, it has its own language, a unique way of measuring time, an unusual legal system, commerce and banking works within its own specific network, and even its mathematics differs curiously from our Western culture. These things are not evident to visitors or tourists. Except for the language, of course. And one other curious aspect – Thailand’s ladyboys.
Perhaps the roots of this can be traced back to traditional Buddhist teachings that acknowledge a ‘third gender’, believing that it’s the result of an unfulfilled love life in a previous incarnation. And this sets the social stage, over a 2,500-year period, for individuals who are not destined to bow to a specific gender role, whatever their physical baggage might be. Although this doesn’t explain why in Thailand the percentage of ladyboys is notably higher than in the neighbouring Buddhist countries. Unless, for this, we have to return to the thought that Thailand has never had an invading foreign culture or their way of thinking imposed upon its society.
If you were born outside of Asia, then you just won’t be able to help yourself. And the meaning of this is not what you think! What I’m getting at is that everyone makes assumptions and judgements based entirely on the values they’ve grown up with – all of us are products of our own societies and cultures. And this means you’re going to instinctively try to relate things you see in Thailand to your own way of thinking. Thus when it comes to ladyboys, the automatic response is to reach for labels like ‘gay’, ‘bi-sexual’ or ‘transvestite’. But that’s like asking a Thai person what the time is. You won’t be able to relate to the answer – traditionally Thailand doesn’t use a 12-hour or even a 24-hour clock. And, likewise, the sexuality of ladyboys and their place in Thai society is nothing we can understand in the West.
Most certainly the ladyboys of Thai antiquity were a tolerated minority, not particularly popular, and of little consequence. But this changed towards the end of the 19th century. It must be kept in mind that Thailand was an autocracy until as late as 1932, with an enormous social gap between the aristocrats of the royal court and the peasants. In this period, it was taboo for women to dance or be a part of courtly entertainment. Happily there was a handy supply of ‘third genders’ readily available, and only too willing to dress up and perform as women! It was Thailand’s most beloved king, HRM Rama V, who first popularised these ‘ladyboys’, being pleased and amused by their performances, effectively bestowing a royal stamp of approval upon them which elevated them socially. This approval then spread into high society, and then gradually out into the world beyond the palace gates.
There’s a whole truckload of reasons for this and, not surprisingly, graduate and postgraduate theses have been penned on the subject in universities all over the world. But it’s probably easiest to begin by saying that you’ll come across ladyboys in nearly all walks of life here, from television, film and the entertainment industry to beauty and fashion, in hotels and resorts, shops and banks, and you’ll even find them working as flight attendants and teachers. It’s estimated that in Thailand there is one ladyboy per hundred of the adult population. Even though the term ‘kathoey’ is generally used in the Thai language, a gentler term clarifies their position in society: ‘phet ti saam’ – the ‘third gender’.
All of which is to explain that, today, boys who feel that they are girls are quite normal in general Thai life. They are not seen as some kind of deviation from the norm; they are very much a part of what constitutes the norm. And, in today’s age of global tourism, their popularity is higher than ever before. Another element that differs radically from the West is that Thai males are small, often delicate, with small hands and feet, and rarely have much in the way of body hair. The word ‘transvestite’ to Western ears summons visions of hairy bricklayers prancing about enthusiastically in Dolly Parton wigs. However, Thai people would find this image equally repulsive – over here, there’s just no such comparable concept!
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But, it has to be said, the aim of every ladyboy is to have breasts although it’s debatable whether this priority comes before or after the need to be desired and the urge to find a loving boyfriend! Either way, it’s hard to find the money for the operation (around €1,000) leading to many opting to work in the sex industry to get the start they need. But, once on the path, the world is their oyster, as witnessed by the enormously popular gigantic, lavish shows, which are packed every night, such as Tiffany, Alcazar or Simon cabarets, all of which showcase the most beautiful ladyboys in all of Thailand, many of whom have had full transgender surgery. But it’s not all glitz and glamour, and there’s often a strong thread of ‘feminism’ in amongst the femininity! Such as the Thai champion ladyboy boxer, Nong Toom, who celebrated her numerous victories by kissing her (usually horizontal) opponent, and who was the subject of the movie, ‘Beautiful Boxer’. Or the Tiffany Cabaret ladyboy ensemble who took on the touring All Blacks rugby team at elephant polo (with one short pause to hunt for a broken fingernail). Or how about the kathoey side that won the Thai National Volleyball Championships in 1996? To realise that you are a girl inside a boy’s body is by no means smooth sailing, even in Thailand. But, unlike the traumatic emotional wilderness this usually leads to in the West, the path is smoother here. And, along with the palaces and the temples, many visitors come here to try to find an insight into the world of Thailand’s third gender. The whole business is intriguing, for men and women alike, and it’s one of the less-promoted attractions of Thailand – even though it’s a normal part of daily Thai life!
Rob De Wet
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Let Waterline’s menu take you on a journey. Globally inspired, highlighting seafood, meat and poultry the menu is infused with Chef Roberto Belletti’s worldwide culinary passion. A story teller through his food, the menu will delight the palate while evoking words, thought and memories. Come and visit Waterline to experience a journey on a plate. Manathai Koh Samui Samui Ring Road Lamai Telephone 0 7745 8560-4 www.manathai.com Serving daily between 11:30am – 10:30pm
A DECIDEDLY DIFFERENT DAY OUT Paradise Park Farm captivates its visitors with stunning scenery and fun things to do.
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In regions that where agriculture is predominant, it’s common for people to unwind by taking a break from the trees and plants that surround them. Having spent all day in the countryside, they tend not to feel enthusiastic about going, say, to a park to relax. Samui has for generations been a farming area, and still is today, though to a lesser extent. Wherever you go you’ll see coconut trees, and really the entire island is one massive plantation. Therefore nobody ever thought to create a park here. Tourism however has overtaken farming and is crucial for the island’s revenue. That means that those who are now coming to the island seek all kinds of amenities, which includes parks. Paradise Park Farm came into being to fulfil this need, and over the years has become popular with both holidaymakers and residents. It’s located right in the heart of the island, and is a special space dedicated to fun and relaxation. It’s big enough for most visitors to spend a good few hours here, if not the entire day. With opening hours being daily from 9:00 am until last admission at 5:00 pm, there’s plenty of time to come and enjoy what the park has to offer. The drive there is a pleasure in its own right, but you won’t pass it on your travels as it’s some five kilometres in the island’s interior. It’s one of the rare chances to see the heart of the island; not many holidaymakers ever make it this far, as there are so few roads that go up into the middle of Samui. To get to Paradise Park Farm, you’ll first need to go to Ban Saket, in the south-west of Samui. By the Chevrolet showroom, turn off the ring-road in the direction of the hills and follow the road. You’ll come to a military camp and a checkpoint, but don’t worry; the guards there will simply wave you through. Continue, following the signs for Paradise Park Farm.
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The road’s easy to drive but don’t attempt it if your vehicle isn’t capable of long, quite steep hills. If you’re not in the mood for driving, this doesn’t mean to say that you’ll miss out on Paradise Park Farm. You can either phone ahead or book through any travel agent, and you’ll be picked up from your hotel, villa or resort. The views get better and better as you go on up, and once at Paradise Park Farm itself, they’re nothing short of spectacular. You can look out to the distant Five Islands, glittering in the sea below. Closer at hand, you’ll see plunging valleys – the farm is located on the edge of one of them – filled with greenery typical of tropical rainforests. On the way up you’ll probably hear some of the incredibly loud jungle insects, and realize you’re in a very, very different world to that of the coastal plain down below. Paradise Park Farm has its own zoo, and is home to a variety of birds and animals. The birds include parrots, lovebirds, parakeets and macaws. You’ll find some indoors, while others are to be found outside, either freely ranging around or tethered. Some of the birds have had their tail-feathers dyed with pastel hues to make them stand out. You can pet or feed the animals, and children love to have their photograph taken with them. You’ll also find a small deer park here at the farm. There are a number of walkways that take visitors through and around the park. They’re clearly sign-posted and are unusually scenic. Depending on which way you go, expect to see beautiful flowers such as heliconia growing wild, and landscapes of rocks and trees that will have you reaching for your camera. You’ll find the occasional bower, overlooking a viewpoint, ideal for portrait photographs, so if you’re coming with your family, you should end up with some memorable shots.
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Samui Discover authentic Indian Cuisine
Noori India Restaurant - Chaweng Center Chaweng Beach Road, opp. Chaweng Buri Noori India Restaurant - Chaweng South at Chaweng Cove Resort Noori India - Central Festival at Chaweng Beach Road For reservation (English) - 0 867 407 873 or 0 7741 3108 For reservation (Thai) - 0 813 960 283 E-mail: nooriindia_samui@yahoo.com www.nooriindiasamui.com
2012 WINNER
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Perhaps the biggest draw about Paradise Park Farm is that despite being inland, you can go for a swim. A beautiful pool awaits you near the entrance and is ideal for cooling off. There are sun loungers, too, making this a very relaxing spot. It’s popular with children, but be careful as it’s also deep enough for adults, and the management point out that if you’re a parent, you’ll need to accompany your children at all times. At some point you’ll probably start to feel hungry. There’s a restaurant on the site, a wooden pavilion with a terrace that overlooks the valleys and sea beyond, and is a great location to sit down and have a drink, snack or meal. On the menu, you’ll find a good selection of Thai and international favourites. Children will like the menu, too, and there are plenty of dishes that’ll appeal, such as spaghetti bolognese, pizzas, or fish and chips. Parents may want to relax over a cocktail, and there are a variety of these too. You’ve no doubt heard the expression ‘fun for all the family’ and know in most cases there’s of course no such thing: someone in that proverbial family is going to be gritting their teeth and wanting to be elsewhere. But Paradise Park Farm is really one of the few, happy exceptions. It’d be hard to think of someone who wouldn’t enjoy a visit here, as it’s so beautiful and exotic. It’ll make a good break from the beach, too, and for children will no doubt become an early memory of having a great time while on holiday.
SCL International School International Education from Pre-school to Secondary Educating the Mind Nurturing the Soul
Small classes Individual education plans Fully qualified teachers A family atmosphere
With these qualities, it’s not hard to see why the children at SCL are achieving so much A warm welcome is extended to anyone who wishes to visit the school
Dimitri Waring
_____________________________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 860 633 318 or 0 812 551 222. www.paradiseparkfarm.com
SCL International School
206/26 Moo 4 Maret, Lamai, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 84310, Thailand Phone: 0 7741 8789 Mobile: 0 810 910 714 Email: emma@sclinternationalschool.com www.sclinternationalschool.com
DELIGHTFUL
DUO Seafood Palate restaurant wows with its tasty Italian and Thai dishes.
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The vitality that’s gone into this chic Lamai restaurant is impressive: at once cool and laid-back, it honours the hot, hot tropical feel of the island with its choice of open-air decking or relaxed air-con dining room. The food tastes every bit as good as it looks, and is extremely well-priced. Oh, and portions are on the big side, making Seafood Palate, one of those places where people come back to time and time again.
cooking. The menu starts with a page devoted to the chef’s recommendations; it features both Thai and Italian dishes, and gives an initial idea of what kind of food you can expect at Seafood Palate. A favourite is the tod man pla krai, or deepfried fish cakes, with river fish from Bangkok being used. It’s a delicious way to start a meal here. Lobster in sweet and sour sauce is also on the recommendations page, along with spicy sea bass in a lime sauce, Thai beef salad, and curried crab.
The restaurant is part of Pavilion Samui Boutique Resort, just over the road, a resort that’s one of Lamai’s favourites. Most people aren’t aware of this as Seafood Palate acts as a stand-alone restaurant, with many of its guests walking in from the beach road while they’re out for a stroll.
Being a seafood restaurant, there’s naturally a large choice of fish to be had. You’ll find the prawn dishes are extremely popular. There’s a whole page in the dinner menu just focussing on these; you can have them deep-fried with tamarind sauce, baked with herbs and served with glass noodles, or sautéed with asparagus or broccoli – and these are just a few of the possibilities.
Seafood Palate is housed in a very contemporary style building, with a kitchen that’s right on the street, so you can see all that’s going on - a deliberate choice, of course, allowing the cooks to put on live demonstrations. You’ll see plenty of seafood on display outside, and you can be sure it’s totally fresh. Khun Wasan, who’s in charge of the daily running of the restaurant says, “We purchase our fish fresh from the markets, and we do this daily. For most fish, we go to Lamai market, but for some we also go to Plai Laem market, up beyond Chaweng. Our priority is that it’s all top quality.” Khun Wasan describes the food as authentic Thai and So there is a duo of cuisines in play, along with a few dishes here and there. No matter what you opt to eat, find great professionalism both in the presentation and
Italian. fusion you’ll the
As befits any good Italian restaurant there’s plenty of pasta, fettuccini, fusilli, spaghetti and penne on the menu – try the colourful Sicilian fusilli or the home-made fettuccini with salmon cream sauce. For the spaghetti, you’ll find more than the usual suspects. For something completely unexpected, just order the spaghetti tom yum goong – it’s perfectly made and just proves that spaghetti and Thai food can go extraordinarily well together. There are also several kinds of pizza, all of which are beautifully made in the wood-fired pizza oven at the front of the restaurant. And just because this is a seafood restaurant it doesn’t mean to say that meats have been forgotten. You can enjoy grilled New Zealand tenderloin steak with pepper sauce or saltimbocca with spinach, mashed potato and white wine sauce.
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Seafood Palate also stocks a range of wines that have been selected to complement the food. These hail from France, Australia, California and South Africa. If you’re in any doubt what to choose, just ask the staff, who are very knowledgeable and will be able to guide you. As with the food, the wines won’t be a drain on your bank account, as they’re very well-priced and value for money. The restaurant’s open from 11:00 am until 11:00 pm, so if you’d like to come for lunch, you’ll be equally welcome. You can choose lunch from the dinner menu, but most people, says Khun Wasan, opt for something from the special lunchtime menu, which is simply called Easy Lunch, and features, again, Thai and Italian treats. There are salads, burgers, pizzas and pasta, and on the Thai side noodle and rice dishes as well as Thai mains, served on rice. Come even earlier and you’ll find a coffee shop open. It’s part of Seafood Palate and is open from 9:00 am until 9:00 pm. it’s great for all-day breakfasts, both Thai and international, as well as coffee, tea and baked goods and cakes from the restaurant’s own bakery. Very popular in its own right, you can come and relax here and take your time. Naturally, as with the restaurant, you can enjoy free Wi-Fi and catch up with what’s happening in the world outside. Desserts come as decadent as you could ever wish for, all lusciousness and melt-on-the-tongue flavours. Try the mille-feuille with fruits of the forest, topped with maraschino sauce or chocolate mousse with vanilla sauce, or the ever-popular tiramisu, made traditionally here, and including Kahlua sauce. All the desserts look great and have no doubt inspired a few hundred Instagram and Facebook postings since the restaurant first opened its doors some two years ago. With so much choice, reasonable prices and great-tasting food and drink, many diners are making a beeline for Seafood Palate, knowing that they are in good hands!
Dimitri Waring
___________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 4034. www.seafoodpalate.com 116 l www.samuiholiday.com
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KOH SAMUI www.samuiholiday.com l 117
DAILY DEVOTIONS Samui offers places of worship for many different cultures and religions.
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Despite being an island in Thailand, Samui is home to many different cultures and also many different religions. Simply driving around the island, and seeing the multitude of international restaurants, may give you some idea as to the wide array of people found here. But, at some point, some of them will require somewhere to satisfy their spiritual needs. A survey done online, in 2011, asked 1398 people if they attended church while travelling or holidaying. The answers were quite surprising - 40% said they would attend any church they found and 37% said they wouldn’t. While the 37% was expected, the 40% was higher than expected and goes a long way to show that people still feel the need for some spiritual stability in their lives. Most spiritually enriched people feel the need to attend their church, mosque, synagogue or temple as they feel it’s important for fellowship. Spending time with like-minded people is always encouraging, and when we face today’s life challenges, it’s comforting to know there are people who you can reach out to in times of need. But what happens if you’re in a country whose main religion is totally different from yours? In Thailand, there are four main religions. Buddhism, Islam, Christianity and Hinduism. Buddhism is the largest and official religion of the country - nearly 95% of the population is Buddhist. Islam is the second largest with nearly 4%, Christianity third with 0.5% and lastly Hinduism with 0.1% The temple (or wat) is the centre of social and religious life for most
Buddhist Thais, and there are more than twenty Buddhist temples on the island. The peaceful atmosphere of a Buddhist temple makes it a relaxing outing. People can sometimes be seen picnicking in the grounds, children chasing a ball around or even various animals seeking shelter in the shade. All are welcome. Buddha images and temples are considered sacred so always enter a temple with respect and ensure you are appropriately dressed (no cleavage showing, knees and shoulders covered) and remove your shoes before entering. In Maenam you’ll find one of the few Chinese Buddhist temples on Samui. If you turn towards the sea at the traffic lights and follow the road around to a small pier, there is a Chinese temple there which becomes the local community’s focal point during Chinese New Year, with fireworks, crackers, drums, acrobatic performers and much more. Quite different to the peaceful feeling of the temple at other times of the year. Muslims comprise Thailand’s largest religious minority, and are mainly concentrated in the southern provinces. Islam was introduced to the Malay Peninsula by Arab traders during the 13th century. Most Thai Muslims are of Malay descent showing the common cultural heritage shared with Malaysia. There are approximately 2,000 mosques in Thailand, around 100 in Bangkok but only one on Samui. The majority of fishermen on Samui are Muslim, and the largest concentration can be found in Hua Thanon, where the island’s only mosque, Masjid Nurulihsan, is located. The Jummah Salaath is held between 12:15 pm and 1:30 pm and the sermon is conducted in Thai.
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Christianity was introduced to Thailand by European missionaries in the 16th and 17th centuries. These early Catholic missionaries were later joined by Protestants, Baptist and Seventh-Day Adventists. Most Christians on Samui are expats, but there are a growing number of Thai people who attend Christian churches. The Samui Mercy Church in Bophut is a Baptist church that opens its doors to anyone to wants to join them in worship. They offer an English service every Sunday from 1:00 pm to 3:00 pm and a Korean service on the first and third Sunday of each month from 10:00 am - 12:00 pm. They also offer a unique children’s service, a music ministry (which they encourage those with musical skills to join) and bible study groups (which start with lunch). The Reverend Anatcha Pacharoen would be happy to welcome you. St. Anna Catholic Church in Nathon has mass on Sundays, with a Thai service at 8:30 am and an English service at 10:30 am. Father Michael Adulkasem is the resident priest. St Mary’s chapel, down the road from the Tesco Lotus in Chaweng, is another catholic church and offers mass on Sundays at 10:30 am. There is also a Jewish synagogue in Chaweng. Daily prayers are held at 6:00 pm and 7:00 pm. On the Shabbat, there is a Chassidus class at
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Daily Theme Nights From 7pm. Monday Classical Thai Night Buffet - THB 590 Tuesday Catch of the Day - from THB 250
9:30 am followed by a service at 10:00 am and lunch at 12:00 pm. Rabbi Mendy Goldshmid is on hand to help you. Also in Chaweng, there’s a Hindu temple that was constructed in 2003, by the Nepalese community. Hindus worship and respect many gods and goddesses and you’ll see most worshippers in the temple between 5:00 am and 10:00 am every day. The differences between Hinduism and Buddhism are quite small due to the historical intermingling of Hindu and Buddhist beliefs, and Buddhist monks are regular visitors to Samui’s Hindu temple. To find this temple, head south after Tesco Lotus Chaweng, take a right turn a few metres after the traffic lights. Follow the road and you’ll find the temple about 50 metres past a school on the right hand side. So you needn’t feel spiritually deprived while holidaying on Samui, the island provides spiritual enrichment for everyone.
Colleen Setchell
Wednesday Italian Night Buffet - THB 490 Thursday Steak Supreme - from THB 300 Friday Beach BBQ Buffet featuring live music and a fire juggling show - THB 690 Saturday Surf & Turf - THB 790 Sunday Roast Chicken Sunday - THB 390 Daily Happy Hours at Beach Bar Buy 1 get 1 free beers and cocktails from 12pm - 2pm l 5pm - 7pm l 9pm - Midnight Sentinel Band Enjoy music from the Sentinel Band - Monday to Saturday from 7pm – 10pm Dining on the Beach Moonlight beach dining with your own private chef, from THB 1,500 per person
Chaweng Noi Beach
Tel. 077 448 994
info.kohsamui@impiana.com www.impiana.com
EXQUISITELY EASTERN Oriental Living showcases the finest in Asian-inspired home décor and furnishings.
Stores like this are definitely a rarity these days. But then again you suspect they always were. But once you step inside, you become aware that you’re somewhere out of the ordinary. It’s way more than the sum of its parts. It inspires you with its colours, textures and the sheer creativity that’s been lavished upon it. While you’re here, the staff are helpful, there when you need them, but this isn’t one of those places where they’re hovering a metre behind you. They’ll offer you a cup of coffee and it’ll be as good as the one you get in a smart cafe. This is exactly what you’ll find at Oriental Living. Everything about this place is way above average, including the staff, who are experts in what they do. They’re ambassadors of tropical chic and the store they’ve created showcases the best of the Far East when it comes to furnishings and interior design. Basically, you could say that they can fill houses and commercial properties with beautiful fabrics, colours, furniture, art work and everything in-between. The store showcases some of what’s on offer and, by the way, you don’t need to be on a mission to interior-decorate a house to step inside; they also offer many, many individual pieces which range from a few thousand Baht to amazing works of art and antiques worth much more. With over a thousand articles and furnishings on offer, it’s impossible to show everything at the same time, so pieces are rotated. Every time you visit Oriental Living, you’ll see something different. And, of course, there are always brand new products arriving, as well as antiques. It’s a great moment to be there when staff have just unpacked a newly-arrived container. In addition, a lot of what Oriental Living sell can be customized. Take, for example, sofas. There are some 150 to choose from, and you can have your selection covered in any fabric that you’d like. It’s guaranteed that you’ll end up with something that’s unique. Of course, you can let Oriental Living choose the material or come up with your own ideas. As you can see, this is a very versatile of service. A sofa takes about three to four weeks to customize – a very short time. And it’s never a problem to communicate with staff: together they are fluent in half a dozen languages: Thai, English, French, Russian, Dutch and Indonesian.
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KAYAKING Explore the caves and beaches of the Angthong National Marine Park Offices located behind Bondi Pub in central Chaweng and on Chaweng Lake Road opposite Lake View For reservations please call 0 7730 0615 or 0 878 866 097
Oriental Living is the brainchild of Dutch-born Michael Dietvorst, who started the business 20 years ago as an art gallery. His store back then was in Chaweng, and they sold artworks to the holidaymakers who visited Samui, and shipped furniture back home for them. He was here from the start of things, so to speak, and then came something of a boom with many villas being built and people buying them as holiday homes. Demand grew steadily for his interior design work and he was asked to completely furnish the new homes. He got a name for doing this – and doing it well. He now operates a second branch in Phuket, in Cherngtalay Park. Both locations offer a similar, extremely prestigious service focusing on high quality furniture, Asian art and interior design projects for residential and corporate customers. The Samui branch is easy to find: it’s on the ring-road in Maenam about 500 metres after the bend where Zazen Boutique Resort & Spa is located. It’s open from 9:30 am to 6:00 pm Mondays to Fridays, and from 9:30 am to 5:00 pm on Saturdays. It’s run by the very affable Khun Peedinan Somnongsook, more commonly known as Khun Dew. He explains that the Oriental Living style is extremely eclectic; they focus on modern Asian, with many influences from Indonesia and Java, as well as Myanmar and, of course, Thailand. They’re careful to ensure that when you’re blending the contemporary with antiques, that the two complement each other. At the same time, there’s also a major focus on Scandinavian contemporary styles, which also perfectly dovetails with Oriental Living’s Asian themes. The store caters for you whether you just have one room to furnish or if you’re a commercial property developer looking for something way beyond the often bland decor of many of today’s villas. Oriental Living is working with award-winning designers, such as The Ridge, a collection of superbly-designed villas in the hills of Choeng Mon, Kanda Residences and Samujana, which won this year’s Property Report award for the category of ‘Asia’s Best Resort Residences’. Khun Dew explains that if you’re thinking about engaging Oriental Living to work with you on your project, you can simply let them do a turnkey furnishing of your property, right down to the spoons, knives and forks, or you can get creative and work together on a far more individualized solution. “In some cases the client just has a basic floor plan and we come up with a presentation of how to design the interior. Incidentally, we have a graphic designer to support any 3D work, if required by the scale of the project. In other cases the client may have a very specific idea and we work from the very beginnings to make his or her dream come true. And of course, it can be anything in between – for example, a client who knows 50% only of what the finished house will look like. At the simplest we need to know the sort of style the customer would like,” says Khun Dew.
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“That already gives us an idea of what would be pleasing and what not.” The team also need to know the budget that the client has.
With so many products, with some being inexpensive while others being luxury items, they really do need to have an idea of what the client is comfortable with, financially. “We can always, always work within a client’s budget – we have many different options of what we can offer. Our clients are happy with the choices they’ve made, and they’ve stayed within the limits of what they can afford.” And those clients come back again and again, obviously very happy with the service that Oriental Living provides. It’s indeed a vibrant place to be, full of colour and light – and always plenty of inspiration. The team who are doing all of this is young and vibrant; they have the edge over many of their peers because of their creativity and their love of doing this kind of work. They’re not just good at designing; they really listen as well and get to know their client at the same time. “The client is treated as if he or she were part of our family,” says Khun Dew. “We’re not here to wear suits and keep a safe corporate distance from our clients. We’re informal and approachable – and find that this is the best way to be professional.” He goes on to say that when the project is nearing completion, they’ll start to fill the property with the goods, artwork and furnishings that have been chosen. “The final day we call D-day,” he says. “Everything is completed then.” But that doesn’t mean to say the job’s over. “We offer an after-sales service,” he says. “So if something happens, just give us a call and we can sort out a solution.” Similarly, the team really cares about the artefacts that go in the properties. They’re aware that most people probably won’t know how to best look after, for example, Indonesian teak wood, or a wooden carving from Myanmar, so they inform the
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Zico's is an electric combination of colourful calypso, vibrant carnival rhythm and dance. A unique party experience not to be missed! Every night is fiesta night at Zico's. The beat goes on, and so does the dancing. Tuck into a superb selection of all you can eat grilled seafood and meats, prepared just for you, complemented by large salad bar. CHAWENG BEACH : OPPOSITE CENTARA GRAND BEACH RESORT SAMUI T : 077 230 500-10 | E : zicos@chr.co.th Open daily : Bar 17.00 - 01.00 hrs., Restaurant 18.00 - 23.00 hrs. WWW.CEN TARAHOTELSRESORTS.C OM
client how to get the best out of what they’ve chosen and minimize wear and tear. As you can see, it’s on-going work. They also offer a yearly inspection, which means that they’ll see potential risks before they occur. Oriental Living also stocks exclusive furniture brands such as Mobella, Box Furniture, Galeri and Tipota. These high-end products will really add elegance and style to any villa, house or commercial property. Similarly, they also work with Jim Thompson fabrics, Sunbrella Outdoor Fabric and other quality manufacturers whose products are suitable for the rigours of a tropical climate. They also have an in-house artist who can sit with the client and listen to requirements needed for a painting and then proceed from scratch. Oriental Living also stocks the work of artists from Thailand and outside, focussing on pop-art, abstracts and landscapes. There’s no doubt about it, Oriental Living is one of the best stores on the island and it’s genuinely worth a visit. But like the tip of an iceberg, what you see there is only a small part of what they can do, a showcase for a whole plethora of services and always voguish products. If you haven’t already, you’ll fall in love with oriental design and the life-style that goes with it.
Dimitri Waring
_______________________________________________________ For further information telephone 0 7724 7675. www.oriental-living.net
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THE WALLS HAVE EYES When it comes to property surveillance, B Smart Sys has you totally covered. “On Samui you could go into anyone’s house and eat whatever food they had. There was plenty; mostly fruit and vegetables. We were kids and went into people’s homes all the time and nobody minded. The doors had no locks on them so it wasn’t difficult to get inside. Everyone was welcome anyway...” So recalls a Samui resident, Khun Ben, who was born on the island, and grew up here in the 1960s. People lived off the land, and there was more than enough to go round. She – and everyone else – was blissfully unaware that one day, not far in the future, the island would become a luxurious holiday destination, and not just that, people would move here from all over the world. That kind of upgrade always draws with it a few unsavoury characters, the kind who, given half a chance are going to drop in uninvited and then exit with as many possessions as they can. And it’s not going to be fruit and veg that goes into the swag bag. “I thought I had things covered,” says Maurice Jespersen, an island resident, who’s here on and off throughout the year. “When we’re on Samui my wife and I have live-in staff anyway, and when we’re away we have a neighbour who keeps an eye out for us. Everything here always seems so peaceful and you never suspect anybody might actually want to burgle you. Unfortunately we were away, and so too was our neighbour. We got caught out. It happens. That is ... if you let it, and we did.” He adds that, certainly, the items that were stolen had value, and not so easy to replace, but just as bad is the knowledge that someone’s been in your house, doing exactly as they wished. “It’s a disturbing feeling, and it takes a long time to go away. It’s better to be protected in the first place. Don’t leave it to chance.” And giving intruders no chance at all, is B Smart Sys, a straightforward security company who ensure that the old-style days of feeling secure are well and truly back again. Their office is located in Maenam, on the ringroad right opposite the entrance to Belmond Napasai. B Smart Sys install CCTV cameras, fire alarms, access and lighting control, home automation, wireless networks and totally integrated security solutions. They specialize in BOSCH, Fujiko, Kenpro and other well-known systems.
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The company is run by Khun Napaporn Nopsuwan, more commonly known as Khun Bee. When you meet him, he has something about him of the private detective: he’s alert and you always listening to you. But in this case he’s not asking questions about the past and who did what, but concentrating on the future and how to stop uninvited people nipping into your property with the worst intentions. He’s there to stop crime and anything that’s looks like it might quickly turn into one. Looking is, in fact, what his work is all about. Over the years, millions of electronic eyes have begun watching streets, parks, offices and for some time now, private houses. “It used to be quite expensive to set up cameras,” says Khun Bee, “but as technology progresses, the price has come down.” Not only that, but monitor quality is very sharp - crystal clear, in fact. Gone are the days when the images were really fuzzy, he explains. That kind of equipment is still around and still doing its job, but nowadays there are hi-definition cameras: you don’t have to peer into an old-fashioned monitor and wonder whether the person standing in your garden is a burglar or your friend over for an unexpected visit. You’ll be able to see for yourself. And you can do it by smart phone, too. Khun Bee takes out his phone, taps a few buttons and up pops a street scene and the interior of a store. It’s the repair shop of a friend of his, and you can see everything very clearly; people walking past, and the people in the store, and all the objects on display. So, any time you feel anxious, you can check to see what’s happening. It gives amazing peace-of-mind. Especially if you are thousands of miles away. But ... wait a moment. The horrible thought strikes: what if something actually is happening? What then? What’s the point in watching your own nightmare unfold on your phone while you’re helpless to do anything about it? It all depends on what system you have in place to combat that eventuality – and something effective has to be in place, otherwise your cameras are only a deterrent. One extremely effective solution is for your house to be connected to the police station. So when the cameras detect movement, they trigger an alarm at the police station. The police there then access the camera and look for themselves. They can ring you to check, and they can also be there within ten minutes. Every burglar’s dream is to have an empty house to himself. His nightmare is to be inside it and surrounded by police. If he can see for himself that there’s good surveillance of a property, he won’t want to take a chance. Surveillance used to be a rich person’s game. Now it’s very affordable and rapidly getting to the stage when it’ll be almost universal. Khun Bee can install state-of-the-art equipment extraordinarily quickly – most often the following day after you’ve made your enquiry. He has three vehicles and a team large enough to ensure that he’s never behind in his work. When you discuss your needs with him (he speaks both Thai and English) he’ll quickly assess what kind of equipment you’ll need to guard your property effectively. He has installed the very latest technology in many of Samui’s luxury homes and villas, as well as providing complete electronic systems for hospitals, retail stores, offices, factories and many of the island’s hotels and resorts. He and his firm have a rock-solid reputation for what they do. It’s an undeniable fact that these days we need more security than we used to, but luckily it’s readily available and at very affordable prices. And once it’s installed, the silent eyes will work 24/7 on your behalf with tireless dedication. And they won’t just provide security; they’ll provide you with a sense of well-being. You will rest assured knowing that you’re being well-looked after and that your home is safe from harm.
Welcome to Sa-ard’s Watersports Center on Koh Samui. Where everyday can be an aquatic adventure – above and below the crystal clear blue waters of the Gulf of Thailand. Join us and discover what r eally makes these islands so very special. Our brand new catamaran Fountaine Pajot Belize 43 “Kindred Spirit” can comfortably take 15 people on a day trip and sleep 6 people on over-night excursions. The starboard hull has a double stateroom with ensuite bathroom and living area. There are also two double state rooms in the port hull with a shared bathroom. You’ll also find a large galley and a living area with CD/DVD player and a 28 inch colour TV. All the cabins and living areas are fully air-conditioned. Sa-ard’s Watersports Center also offers Private Speedboat tours to the beaches and snorkeling destinations of the surrounding islands. Manager and Skipper is Sa-ard, one of Thailand’s most celebrated windsurfers. He took part in the Olympics 1984 in Los Angeles and 1992 in Barcelona, was a long time member of the Thai National Windsurfing Team, has been Asian Champion and 5 times Gold Medal Winner in the South East Asian Games. You simply could not be in better hands!
Dimitri Waring
_______________________________________________________ For further information telephone 0 836 375 445, 0 815 631 685 or 0 7724 8362. Facebook: bsmartsys
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GET A GRIP ON THE RIP Currents, critters, coral and what to look out for in the water. Water. I’ll warrant it’s got a lot to do with why you’ve come to Samui. After all, this is an island, and it’s one that’s surrounded by the bluest of seas, an amazing sea that’s swimmable the whole year round. And it’s mostly safe. Mostly - but not always. And there’s the catch. Water, much like electricity, is something that we think of as relatively safe, but both are ready, willing and able to kill you. Now, most people who come to Samui have memorable holidays – in the best sense of the word. But sometimes things go wrong. Here are the main dangers, and how to avoid them. Rip Currents: Chaweng especially is prone to these from the beginning of October until the beginning of February, but they’re a possibility on any beach anywhere in the world. Changes in tides and winds often cause the phenomenon, and the seafloor itself can play a part. There are 21 known causes. How to spot the danger? You often can’t. The water may even look calm – and the surface is, but just underneath there’s this huge, sucking undertow. Some currents can be recognized by churning water or by a break in wave – look along the crest of the wave and if you see a gap of flat water, then beware. Even experts admit it’s very, very hard to spot a rip current. They can come seemingly out of nowhere, and they can start off strong or at first be quite weak – and then a minute later ferociously overpowering. They can reach speeds of just under three metres per second. That’s a speed that can’t be matched even by an Olympic runner. “I’m not a fool,” said Eileen, a holidaymaker on Samui, and when I met her, an in-patient at a local hospital. “I was paddling, that’s all. The water wasn’t even up to my knees. And then all of a sudden there was this very strong current. It swept me off my feet.” Eileen almost drowned but was rescued before it was too late. She had to spend some 24 hours in hospital, too weak at first to move, but alright in the end. It was a terrifying experience, and as she said, she wasn’t even swimming. Rip currents can knock you down with surprising ease. If you’re swept up in one, then don’t fight the current. Most of these currents are quite narrow – like a river in the sea and what you need to do is to swim in a direction along the shore, not towards it. This means you’ll swim out of the current. If you are unable to do so, be aware that the current will simply peter out once it’s away from the shore. This could be some 300 metres though in the most severe cases. If so you should aim to tread water. But better to avoid the situation in the first place. The only good news is that rip currents don’t pull you under the water, as is commonly thought – they just pull you out to sea. Bad enough, though.
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Rip currents aren’t the only danger ... swimming hazards can be quite general and not fall into any particular category. Between coughs and simply going silent for long periods of time, an acquaintance of mine who’s a 30-something ex-commando and who describes himself – and it’s no idle boast – as “very fit and a very good swimmer” told me a few months ago, how earlier in the day he’d gone swimming in Chaweng, way out to sea. “I often do this. I wouldn’t recommend others to even try, but my military training means I can swim efficiently for an hour or so at a time – it’s never been a problem. Today, I’m lucky to be alive. I swam out – did everything as usual – but just couldn’t get back. There was a current. I couldn’t make headway.” “But you made it in the end?” I asked. “You found the strength?” He said flatly he didn’t. “I was very, very lucky. Someone saw me. I had to be rescued. Otherwise I wouldn’t be here now.” It was an incident that shouldn’t have been one. Don’t swim out too far as it may not be easy to get back to shore. Above all, err on the side of caution, even if you’ve been living here for years. Many resorts, especially in Chaweng, fly red flags when it’s dangerous to go in the water. Ignore them and you may just well end up as an accident statistic. Hopefully not, though. If someone’s in trouble, then it’s the jet-ski operators who tend to hurry to the rescue – they have the fastest craft. Resorts will phone them if they’re notified of someone in trouble at sea. A resort manager told me that even when the red flag 136 l www.samuiholiday.com
goes up at his resort, then trouble is still not far behind. “We have to keep watch; people routinely ignore the warning. Any day we put up a red flag, we know that we’ll be fishing people out of the water later on.” Ponds and waterfalls: If you seek an alternative to the sea, you still need to be careful. Ponds have weeds and weeds can wrap themselves around you; waterfalls have the slipperiest of rocks. Of the two, waterfalls present a greater danger. Don’t jump into unknown waters and be careful even when you think you’ve sussed things out. The rock you needed to avoid when you jumped may, in retrospect, appear to have moved towards you. But no, you just miscalculated. So too do people when they’re just clambering about, standing up on mossy surfaces, or taking photos. By the way, swimming pools can have slippery steps and rapidly deepening bottoms with no warning signs. Most have nobody officially on duty. Multitasking: Eh? Hardly a seaside danger! You’re justified in asking what on earth multi-tasking has to do with aquatic safety. After all, you’re not at the office now, juggling emails, schedules and appointments, and trying not to fall behind. But whatever task you’re niftily doing by the waterside while your child is paddling may be your undoing - even if it’s having a much-earned nap. Take this case: safe spot, mother and father tandem supervisors, other people around – a fool-proof formula, you’d think. But multi-tasking was the fatal flaw here: the little three-year old child drowned because her parents were busy doing other things. But
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If you are looking for something wonderful and different, Zazen restaurant is the place for you to discover. Their master chef emphasises the use of healthy organic ingredients while infusing dining participation. Zazen is truly one of the most romantic and serene beachside dining restaurants on the island. Every night this charming establishment lights up over 100 candles to set the ambiance for you to experience. Tel: 077 425 085, 081 737 8771 Email: fb@samuizazen.com Website: www.samuizazen.com
Samui Every conceivable Indian dish is on offer here – and they are all delicious! Conveniently located in Central Chaweng, the restaurant is open from 11:00 am – 11:30 pm. For further information, reservations, and take-away orders (free delivery in Chaweng area), telephone 0 7741 3315.
Asia Travel both were keeping an eye out, they said. And those other people just happened not to be around at the crucial time. Be aware too that the sea bed can have dips in it. A child can easily go from safely standing to being underwater in the space of a single step. Blobby, spiky, toothy dangers: The seas here tend to be mercifully free of nasty creatures, but again, alas, it’s not guaranteed. Here’s a round-up of the coastal suspects. Recently jellyfish have been making headlines. Samui isn’t plagued with them as are some Mediterranean spots, but you should be aware that a jellyfish sting isn’t so uncommon. Usually it’s just very, very painful. Alas, though, not all jellyfish are the same. The infamous box jellyfish has been making appearances on our shores. Sadly there was even a fatality on Koh Phan-Ngan very recently, caused by the dreaded box. To treat jellyfish stings you may have to go to hospital, but first aid can greatly help. Pour vinegar on the wound or pee on it – the acid will help take away the pain, whereas water won’t. Take a bottle of vinegar with you to the beach and you’ll be prepared. Check the shoreline for signs of washed up jellyfish, and keep an eye out for them when swimming. A few resorts, like Poppies Samui, have vinegar stations – clearly marked poles containing big bottles of vinegar.
Asia Travel is the most popular travel agency on Koh Samui. Established 15 years ago, they are well known to provide updated travel information reasonably priced for all international and domestic needs. Their second to none consultancy service will help you with all aspects of long or short stay requirements such as visa, work permit or company registration and finances. Asia Travel is well known for their quality services as mentioned in The Lonely Planet. Tel: 0 7723 6120, 0 7742 1342 Fax: 0 7742 1185 Email: asia_int@samart.co.th For Taxi: ร้านตั้งอยู่ที่ถนนหน้าทอน
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Beware of coral cuts that are like razor slashes, stepping on sea anemones and being bitten by the few species of venomous fish here, such as the stonefish. The bite of a fish might not seem like much, and the tiny, tiny puncture marks might not seem that serious – but the pain caused can require intravenous morphine over 24 hours.
waters with typhoons, maelstroms and whirlpools. Neither are there vast armadas of jellyfish with a personal vendetta against you. And you won’t be challenged every ten seconds by a new catastrophe in the making. Maritime mayhem, it isn’t. There’s no need to be alarmed, just be safety conscious.
Other dangerous presences in the water turn out to be ... humans. While you’re swimming carefully in the water, watch out for jet-skis. There are no designated zones. All the driver can see of you is your head. The jet-ski operators have eagle eyes, but the holidaymakers who’re renting jet-skis may be totally new to them. When a jet-ski collides with you, it’s basically the aquatic version of being run over. Fortunately rare on Samui.
Phew! So you’ve had your first dip in the water and you’re up to speed on the principal dangers. Now you go up the beach, wisely seeking shade ‘cos you’re aware of the power of the sun. So now you can lie down and just relax again in the shade of that inviting coconut tree.
Okay, so this was an article about safety, so we’ve looked at all the worst-case scenarios and covered just about everything nasty that can cause you grief while on holiday. Samui isn’t a vortex of shark-infested 138 l www.samuiholiday.com
And check out those coconuts! Each is as big as a bowling ball... and as heavy too! Now, are they ripe enough to be harvested? Or will they suddenly fall?
Dimitri Waring
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