April 2018 by Siam Map Co., Ltd.

SAMUI An underground tunnel telling the story of Poppies and leading you to Samui’s most established restaurant

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APRIL 2018

Monday & Saturday: Thai Buffet & Beach BBQ THB 900 Net Thursday: International Buffet THB 900 Net Sareeraya Villas & Suites

Call + 66 (0) 77 914 333 www.sareeraya.com

Thailand’s Fun Month Sunshine, food and fun in April! Each month on Koh Samui is special in one way or another. The weather is fabulous and there’s always lots to do and see. Right now, you might say it’s our summertime – traditionally it’s the hottest time of the year. But Thailand has a very varied climate. Up in the northeast, right now it’s really hot. But further south, down here on Samui, it rarely gets much over 30 degrees, so

now it’s just perfect for spending time on the beach or takinga lazy boat trip to one of the islands. Although if you’re here on the 13th, you won’t be doing either of these things! Because this is the Thai New Year of Songkran. This is when the streets are lined with people, and the roads

are filled with trucks and pickups. The buckets and hosepipes are out on the street, and everything that moves is hit with a torrent of water . . . and returned with interest from the big tubs of water on the backs of the trucks! Happily, here, the water fights only last for one day. Which means that you’ve got plenty of time

to wind down, dry off and get yourself ready. Ready for what? Why, for another marvellous dining experience of course! We’re famed for our huge range of cuisines, from street food to five-star, and from countries all over the world. So just take a look though our pages to see what’s featured this month!

2017 "Delicious Destinations" Enjoy outstanding Thai and European cuisine from our highly experienced, award winning chef beside the golden sands of Chaweng beach. Perfect for any occasion whether it be dinner with friends or family, or specially set up romantic dinner for two. At Banana Fan Sea Resort

Chaweng Beach Road Tel: 0 7741 3483-6

E-mail: info@bananafansea.com

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SAMUI

SAMUI An underground tunnel telling the story of Poppies and leading you to Samui’s most established restaurant

www.siamwininganddining.com

FREE COPY

APRIL 2018

Monday & Saturday: Thai Buffet & Beach BBQ THB 900 Net Thursday: International Buffet THB 900 Net Sareeraya Villas & Suites

Call + 66 (0) 77 914 333 www.sareeraya.com

Chaweng Beach Road Tel: 0 7741 3483-6

E-mail: info@bananafansea.com

www.bananafansea.com

Graeme Malley Editor

Preeda Tuajob (Puy) Graphic Designer

Akaphon Phongninlaarphon (Don) Photographer

Seksak Kerdkanno (Klauy) Webmaster

Rob De Wet Feature Writer

Dimitri Waring Feature Writer

Karan Ladd Feature Writer

Nipawan Chuaysagul (Ning) Sales & Marketing Director ning@siammap.com Tel: 0 898 783 891

Henrik Bjørk Managing Director

Siam Map Company Ltd. 52/6, Samui Ring Road, Moo 3, Bo Phut, Samui, 84320 Thailand Tel: (66) 0 7742 2201 Fax: (66) 0 7741 3523 email: info@siammap.com www.siammap.com All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial content in any manner is prohibited without written permission from Siam Map Company Ltd. Whilst every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this publication, Siam Map Company Ltd. assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions. Neither is any liability assumed for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein. c Siam Map Company Ltd. 2018

Distribution at Bangkok Airport courtesy of Bangkok Airways. Reservation Center: 1771 Samui Chaweng Office: 0 7760 1300 www.bangkokair.com

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As F ine as it Gets Art of Life takes the enjoyment of seafood up to a whole new level.

Art of Life (subtitled ‘Oyster and Seafood House’) is a restaurant which specialises in seafood. It’s one of the many. But it’s special – as soon as you see it you’ll know. It’s probably in the best location on the island, in the sense that everyone who comes here will find it. Because all of you now reading this will go, or have been already, to Fisherman’s Village, and probably more than once. Not only that, it’s in probably the best spot in the village: on two sides of the corner, on the right,

Fresh local fish and seafood, cooked in authentic Thai way by the owner Supattra. Great international wines! Just a few tables in an open Thai sala style restaurant facing a mangrove forest. Tel. 093 2828 777 Open 6:00 pm, closed Sunday & Monday www.facebook.com/supattrathaidining Seatran Ferry

Big Buddha Market

Airport

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where you come in on the road to where the old pier is. This is the original spot from where Fisherman’s Village started to grow. At one time all the houses here were made of wood, in the traditional Thai-style. But, as the place developed into a Samui hot-spot so, sadly, the lovely old wooden buildings were scrapped and replaced by something seen as more modern. Not so with Art of Life: it’s been lovingly restored. And any modern touches have been crafted to tie-in with the style. It’s all been so elegantly and beautifully put together that I’m tempted to describe it in

Dining on an al fresco deck on the west end of Fisherman's Village, overlooking our charming Lily Pond garden and shoreline infinity pool. Savour fresh seafood and tender meats grilled to perfection, enhanced by tableside preparations and expert salt guru seasonings. Every day for lunch and dinner 12.00 noon – 10.30 pm

more detail: but anyway you’ll get to see it for yourself, I’m sure – plus the photos here will give you a good idea! Of course, it doesn’t matter how pretty a restaurant is if the food doesn’t match up to the promise. And this is the second part of why this eatery is just so fine – the cuisine is unique, and it’s absolutely super, too (the table settings will give you a clue!). There are a few other places that boast of Mediterranean cuisine. But this is, as far as I know, the only spot on the island which

not only offers southern-French-style Mediterranean cuisine, but specialises in seafood. This is fine-dining seafood, French-style! Much of this is due to the executive chef here, Christophe Scali, who originally served his time at a seafood restaurant in Marseilles. And what you’ll enjoy here is not only his flair and experience, but also the results of a great many imported items, lending a deep layer of authenticity to the southern-French cuisine on offer. Sole, salmon, sardines, clams, periwinkles, whelks, scallops, mussels; none of this is found

locally, and there’s nothing that can be substituted if you want that authentic taste. And then there are the oysters . . . And an ‘oyster house’ it certainly is, with such delicacies as the French Fin De Claires, Marennes Oleron N3 and Fine De David Herve on the menu. And even Harty Oysters N3 from Ireland, too. And these are conveniently priced singly, per six, or per 12. Or, alternatively, you could indulge yourself in one of the chef’s specials, the ‘Five Oysters by the Chef’, which

gives you a combination of cocktails and oysters together. There’s also a splendid selection of ‘platters’. There are four to choose from, each increasing in complexity, and arranged for either one person, or a couple dining together. If you are after something exclusively extravagant, then just attempt to finish ‘The Royal’, which comprises 12 oysters, a Canadian lobster, a brown crab, four king prawns, 12 shrimps, plus clams, mussels, whelks and periwinkles, all presented on a three-tier plate stand!

But, wisely, it’s not all seafood. For the lusty carnivores among you there’s a slow-cooked (five-hours) Lamb Shank (with mashed cauliflower, raisins and crunchy vegetables), Beef Fillet (earth and sea style) or a rack of prime ribs (Cote De Boeuf) for two people. And most thoughtfully there’s even a Kids Menu, with a choice of one of three mains, plus ice-cream. There are a couple of other nice touches, too. Such as a tapas-style starters menu – so you don’t need to indulge in something heavy during the

heat of the day. Or the chalkboard up on the wall which changes every few weeks, with specials from Christophe that aren’t featured on the menu. Plus, of course, there’s an excellent selection of cocktails and other beverages, including a solid wine list and a choice of very affordable house wines. And the final high-note? If you’re coming here under your own steam and need to find a parking space, take the second side-road on your left as you come under the arch, and Art of Life

will refund the cost of your parking ticket. One way and another, all in all, when it comes to dining out – this is about as good as it gets! Art of Life is open from 11:00 am until 11:00 pm.

Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 803 191 924. www.artoflifesamui.com

Welcome to Olivio Italian Cuisine - sit back and enjoy the very best of Italian and Thai food in a relaxing atmosphere. We’re renowned not just for our great tastes but our beautiful beachside setting too. Olivio - Beachfront at Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort & Villas Chaweng Beach. Free round trip transfer from Chaweng, Bophut and Choeng Mon. For reservations, please call : +66 77 332 950-7 Fax : +66 77 332 958 E-mail : booking@baanhaadngam.com www.baanhaadngam.com

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Thai Recipe Curried Thai Crab or Boo Paht Pong Karee.

Today’s dish is one that can safely be described as a Thai classic, yet it’s one that few visitors are familiar with. You'll often find it on menus in restaurants, but it tends to be something that Thais eat and others shy away from, veering towards the more familiar curries.

do, though there’s use of plain milk in some variations, including ours. You'll also find that this classic dish usually comes with the addition of oyster sauce, chilli paste, pepper, egg, very fresh chillies and, as often as not, a good helping of Chinese celery.

Almost all curries in Thailand are prepared with a paste rather than a powder. We always associate curry powder with India. But even though curries made their way from India to Thailand, they’ve been adapted, and something completely new has been made of them. It starts right with the ingredients, which are pounded together to make thick pastes rather than powders. Today’s curry stands out from the crowd because it’s made from powder – virtually the only one that really is in Thailand. Something else that’s unusual is that it doesn’t rely on coconut milk like so many curries

It’s an extremely delicious recipe that can be made in less than 30 minutes; it’s great for an everyday main course that even children tend to love. Just follow our easy recipe and you'll soon have a tasty dish that you can share with your friends over an informal dinner. Ingredients: 1 large crab (go to your local market for this) 1 fresh red chilli, mild rather than fiery, and thinly sliced

3 stalks of Chinese celery, sliced into bite-sized lengths 1 egg 1 ½ tbsp garlic, finely chopped 2 tbsp vegetable oil suitable for stir-fries 1 tbsp tapioca flour, blended into a little water 2 tbsp milk or coconut milk 3/4 cup good chicken stock, preferably home-made Seasoning Sauce Ingredients: 1 tsp seasoning sauce 1 tbsp light soy sauce 2 tsp oyster sauce 1 tbsp sugar 1 tsp curry powder ½ tsp ground white pepper 1 ½ tsp roasted chilli paste

Preparation: Prepare the ingredients for the sauce by mixing together and adding the chicken stock. Set aside. Next, take the crab and give it a thorough clean. You can do this by first taking off the shell. The next step isn’t for the faint of heart: crack the claws and legs by hitting them with a heavy object, such as the blunt edge of a cleaver. This is the trickiest part of the process; be careful not to use too much force. In a wok or heavy frying pan, heat the vegetable oil gently until it’s hot. Now quickly fry the garlic until it just starts to look golden and releases its heady aroma. You don’t want it to be fried to a crisp, so keep an eye out on the pan. Now place the crab in the pan or wok and stir-fry

BEACHFRONT DINING & COCKTAILS RockPool at Kanda Residences is a spectacular beachfront restaurant and bar situated just five minutes from Chaweng For reservations or more information call +66 77 234 500 www.rockpoolsamui.com Facebook: rockpool.kohsamui Daily high tea from 12pm and happy hour with buy one get one free on selected drinks from 5pm until 7pm. 4

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for up to five minutes or until you can see it’s cooked through. Set aside. Add the pre-mixed sauce and chicken stock to the pan and bring to a boil, while stirring. Boil for up to five minutes before adding the egg to the wok. Keep on stirring until everything has cooked through. You're almost ready; now complete the dish by adding the milk, tapioca flour, Chinese celery and chilli. Keep stirring until heated through. Once ready, immediately spoon onto a plate and serve.

Dimitri Waring

TEMPTED BY TAPAS?

Tree Tops Sky Dining & Bar at Anantara Lawana Koh Samui Resort is a must when it comes to tapas. A new fixture in many people’s diaries is the Wednesday night get-together at Tree Tops Sky Dining & Bar. It’s an ideal mid-week break for everyone, whether they’re working or simply enjoying the leisurely pace of life that Samui so notably offers. You’ll find families, friends and couples are heading to the venue, located in the very north of Chaweng, at popular Anantara Lawana Koh Samui Resort. The initial event kicked off on a languid Wednesday evening in March, and was extremely well-attended – packed out, to be precise. That’s why it’s become a calendar fixture. It’s highly recommended that you book a day in advance for the event, which starts at 6:00 pm and winds down an hour or so later. It’s a convivial, chatty occasion, an opportunity to mix and mingle as well as meet new people. Many who attend are from the hospitality industry; others are part of the island’s economic life in one way or another, while still others have simply stumbled across it. Tree Tops Sky Dining & Bar is beautifully located; it’s surrounded by natural rock formations, boulders and is set close to a magnificent canopy of trees. It’s stylish and comfortable, with small beautifully thatched salas and a wooden decking that overlooks the sea. The bar is right next to the well-known restaurant of the same name, where diners can enjoy outstanding food and drink in a highly romantic venue. Wednesday evening at Tree Tops is more than just a social occasion in great surroundings, however. People would come even it were set in

a nondescript indoor location, as this is one of the island’s few chances to really indulge in all things tapas. There are a dozen varieties, and they hail not just from Spain but also France and Portugal. They’re prepared by the resort’s Executive Chef, Azizskandar Awang. He’s used his characteristic gusto to dream up dishes that usually grace the Mediterranean, yet seem totally in place here in the tropics. He felt that the selection should be congruous with the setting, and so you’ll find light, summery bites on hand, rather than the heavier tapas varieties that you find in Europe. They may vary according to seasonality, but the tapas at Tree Tops include some of the best-known and loved of these small dishes. You’ll find delights such as Patatas Bravas (crispy fried potatoes with a hint of spice and garlic aioli), Boquerones en Vinaigre (anchovies on bread rubbed with tomato along with roasted peppers and garlic), and “Pica Pau” Beef (fried Portuguese style then served with pickles). You will also probably find Merguez, grilled lamb and beef sausage with cumin yogurt and Dijon mustard. Aziz also makes bread to go with the ensemble, and there are plenty of Kalamata olives marinated in rosemary, orange, parsley and roasted garlic to really give a Mediterranean feel to the event. Trained to cook in classic French style, Chef Aziz as he is more usually called, won an award as the Best Young Chef in Malaysia, the country where he was born and bred. But he’s a cosmopolitan soul, especially when it comes to

culinary matters, and making tapas is something that he does seamlessly. Thanks to Director of Food & Beverage, Yolande Hu, he’s able to get all the supplies he needs to make them. The tapas evening was incidentally her idea, with Aziz implementing all the details. As Yolande puts it, “We felt that it would be a great idea for everyone to have a tapas evening along with drinks. It’s a social event that takes place early, allowing people to go off and continue their evenings elsewhere or simply get home at a reasonable hour.” The tapas are unlimited; simply help yourself. Meanwhile, there are two different types of free-flow sangria that have been specially made for the evening, following traditional recipes. Wait staff bring them round – but take care if you’re driving as they tend to have a cumulative effect. Tapas can be spectacular, even if far removed from its original homeland. What Tree Tops is doing is proof enough that even in 2018, and in the tropics, traditional tapas is alive and well and just as able to charm us as it is in Spain. ¡Buen provecho!

Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7796 0333. www.lawana-chaweng.anantara.com

Located in the beautiful Fisherman’s Village on Bophut Beach. Our experienced chefs proudly present authentic Thai cuisine and Southern Thai dishes. Fresh seafood is a must with great quality at reasonable prices. Enjoy the tranquility of the beach, the twinkling stars and the whispering waves along with the beautiful music. A superb dining experience and great memories.

Fisherman’s Village l

Tel. 077 902 888, 077 430 030 l www.kruabophut.com l Free Parking available at the Wharf!! www.siamwininganddining.com 5

English Japanese Pork! If you’ve never experienced the mouth-watering Kurobuta pork – read on!

Hands up if you’ve ever had a bad pork chop. The sort where you just have to keep chewing for ever? Well, if we’re being honest, nearly all the small cafes and restaurants (in every country) serve meat like this. They have to if they are to keep the prices down. And, most of the time, you get what you pay for. Battery-farmed pigs, put through the production line then sectioned and frozen for sale in the hypermarkets just won’t give you a tender morsel on your plate. Yes, of course, there are remedial ways of making the best of this – but you can’t get a silk purse from a battery sow’s ear (or anything else, for that matter) – as the saying goes. Enter stage left the Japanese. From the same esoteric producers who have previously brought you such smash hits as ‘The Wagyu Beef and I’ and ‘Jidori Chicken Crosses the Road’, now comes yet another blockbuster, as yet untitled, but starring Kurobuta, the ultimate English pig. English? Yes. Because Japanese Kurobuta pork

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isn’t really Japanese at all, as will shortly be revealed! But first, just what is it that makes, say, that highly-prized Wagyu beef so tender? It’s generally considered to be the world’s most expensive meat, and surrounded by myth and legend. Well, they’re carefully bred, allowed to range free, raised for twice the time it usually takes, hand-massaged daily to relieve stress and fed and pampered like they were living in a 5-star hotel. The result is a unique muscle structure which is marbled throughout with unsaturated fats. These fats dissolve while cooking, providing Wagyu with its distinct signature and flavour, and a tender texture that falls apart in your mouth. But to relate this to Japanese pork, we have to travel back in time, to the period of the English Civil War, back in the middle of the middle of the17th century. It is believed that Oliver Cromwell, the leader of the revolutionary Puritan army, discovered an unusual breed of pig while

encamped close to Reading. Specifically, the pig they found was of the Black Berkshire variety. (In fact, ‘Kurobuta’ means ‘black pig’ in Japanese.) Two hundred years later, the Royal family were known to have kept a select herd of Black Berkshire pigs on the farm at their Windsor Castle retreat. And it is believed that a number of these prize pigs were offered to Japanese statesmen as a diplomatic gift in the late 19th century. This breed was indeed unusual. The region where they evolved had high soil acidity, providing them with a genetic disposition towards providing a deep red meat, unlike other kinds of pork. Japanese farmers seized on this as a starting point, and then went on to give this rather special breed of pigs the ‘Wagyu’ treatment, with no effort or expense spared. You are what you eat? Well if that’s so, then it’s hardly surprising that Kurobuta pork is the way it is today. This adage is particularly true for pigs

because of the unusual way their bodies store fat. Instead of being processed throughout the body, the fat is deposited directly into the muscle tissue. Therefore, the pork produced from pigs fed on oats or corn will taste of oats or corn. And depending on the techniques specific to each farmer, pigs may get peanuts, apples, clover, or even milk as dietary supplements. The use of antibiotics and hormones is avoided, and humane farming techniques are deployed in their free-ranging 5-star piggy ‘hotels’. And boy have they got all this down to a fine art! The pig’s diet is even carefully adjusted to contain exactly the right acidity to maintain the signature trademark of deep red flesh. And this also results in a firmer texture and an enhanced flavour. It is said that if you’ve never eaten Kurobuta pork, you’ll be able to truly taste the meat like never before. (And I have to say that until this experience, even if tender, ordinary pork has a universally bland taste which needs extra flavourings added to enhance it.)

Just to give you a relative perspective, a prime Kurobuta pig will sell for around $1,000 per animal, compared to the usual $150 for the battery-raised version – what price tender pork chops tasting of peanuts or beer, eh? Whereas Wagyu beef is universally known, proclaimed, and often advertised and promoted, not so with Kurobuta pork, and it’s not particularly easy to find. One place, however that it can crop up, is in a Japanese restaurant, sliced very thin and seared with breadcrumbs, ‘tonkatsu’ style – the ‘Kagoshima’ Kurobuta pork comes highly recommended by top chefs in the preparation of this dish. But check the price before you wade in, salivating in anticipation. Sometimes not all is as it seems, and if you’re disappointed to get something bland, then you might be eating plain old English pork instead of the deluxe Japanese version!

Rob De Wet

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Universal Appeal

More than just stringy staples, noodles and pasta have been on the menu for thousands of years. A mystery was afoot in northwest China in Lajia, an archaeological dig. After painstaking excavation down to depths of three metres, a sealed bowl was discovered. It had been overturned several thousand years ago, and then abandoned. What could be inside it? Perhaps something valuable? The contents turned out to be nothing startling at all; no expert was needed to verify what the bemused archaeologists were staring at: a bunch of strands, long and thin, and perfectly preserved. Noodles. Proof, if anyone still needed it, that humans have had a love affair with noodles from the earliest days. These ones were made of millet, which was cultivated in China some 7,000 years ago. Scientists were however amazed that the noodles showed the high degree of skill that’s needed in order to make them this well. Culinary sophistication existed even back then, and noodles, around for millennia, weren’t necessarily primitively made. Many people think that they’re a Chinese invention, and that Marco

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Polo was responsible for bringing the recipe to the west. But that’s only one theory. The Etruscans had been making primitive dough a thousand years before Marco Polo was born, smashing grains against rocks and adding water. Some sources believe that it was the Arabs who first made noodles, and others that it was the Italians. But the casually abandoned bowl of noodles suggests an Asian, not European or Arab, origin for the staple dish. It's safe to say that no one person invented either noodles or pasta. They are representative of foods that whole groups, at different times and places, must have experimented with, perhaps turning them into vaguely similar dishes. Some were highly tasty; they were too good for word not to get around. In this way more and more people heard about noodles and pasta. They began to pop up all over the known world. Many countries began to develop their own versions. For example, Japanese noodles or ‘udon’ came into being thanks to a Buddhist

monk who brought noodles into the country from China. Other types of noodles were to be found in Korea and still others in Persia and India. Thailand has its own type of noodle, ‘khanom jeen’, fresh very thin noodles made of rice which has been fermented and then boiled. It’s then served in stock that could be variously fish curry, green chicken curry or as a salad with coconut milk. Given its versatility it’s naturally very popular and you’ll find it right here on Samui served in dozens of restaurants. Pasta, meanwhile, first got a written mention in the 5th century. Arab traders in the Mediterranean in those days were particularly keen on it because it travelled so well. Later accounts spoke of the traders enjoying string-like semolina paste that could be cooked. It came from Sicily. Pasta products were first properly mentioned in the 13th century, and back then things weren’t as slow to catch on as people today might think.

A letter could be sent from London to Verona in an incredible 24 hours; merchants were making trips to the Far East and nations were keen to trade – all this made it easy for pasta to become steadily more and more famous. Today there are some 600 different types of pasta. But what precisely differentiates noodles and pasta? Noodles are most often made of flour milled from wheat; pasta is processed from durum semolina, which is a coarse kind of flour. Pasta tends to have a more golden colour, and is most often free of salt. It’s extruded – squeezed from a tube – whilst noodles are rolled out and cut into strips. Noodles are more associated with broths whilst pasta is generally served with a sauce added on top. These are just some of the differences. Some might not be so obvious. In a world of that craves convenience and fast food, noodles and pasta reign supreme. In Japan, Momofuku Ando looked at what would happen if he flash-fried noodles then dried them

out. He found that taste remained relatively good, packaging was easy and shelf life was enormously long. He’d just invented instant noodles. They first went on sale in 1958, and have been popular ever since. Not exactly fine dining or healthy eating, more so as the desiccated ingredients resemble space food, but instant noodles remain a quick fix for hunger. Noodles and pasta, despite their humble-sounding names, are both world favourites. Whether you’re getting them microwaved in the local convenience store or enjoying them by candlelight in a first-class restaurant, they rarely fail to please.

Dimitri Waring

Authentic Thai

Experience the real taste of Thailand at Krua Chao Baan.

If you really want to try Thai food – really authentic Thai food, and in a lovely setting – then one place that’s a must is Krua Chao Baan. I’ll warn you right away, it’s not easy to find: because it’s so genuinely-Thai, the sign outside is in Thai, not English! But don’t let that put you off, as several of the staff speak English, and the menu is in Thai and English. The first thing to do is to head for Lamai, and then locate, on the ring-road, the landmark of the Grandmother and Grandfather Rocks. Look out for the next landmark, Rocky’s Boutique Resort on your left, with the line of red flags outside. At which point slow down because you’re very close now. Just after Rocky’s, look for the signage for Chill-In Beach Club . . . and slow right down, as the wide frontage of Krua Chao Baan is the next thing on your left. (Look for the big colourful Coke and Singha signs.) There’s a broad frontage where you can park. But if you suddenly see Flamingo Bay

Resort, then you have just gone past the restaurant! Once you come in off the road then you’ll appreciate right away how attractive this place is, and just what a fabulous location it has, too – raised up and running right along the edge of the sand. It forms a kind of U-shape around a central grassed area with a little lily pond, and is built in traditional Thai-style, made out of wood with thatched roofs. Altogether there’s room to seat around 100 people, but it’s in different areas, with the main deck raised, and it’s laid-out nicely enough so that it never feels crowded. The owner, Khun Jack, comes from an old Samui family, as do some of the staff and also the fishermen who bring in and supply the seafood fresh each day. In fact, he’ll be the first to proudly tell you that his restaurant was the first full-time seafood restaurant along this coast, having been here now for almost 20 years. For

most of that time, it was something of a secret, known only to its faithful Thai patrons. But in recent years, and with so many foreign tourists stopping by, it’s now expanded to cater for English speakers – Khun Jack’s English is very good, by the way.

‘soups’, ‘main dishes’ (and so on), it’s undoubtedly best to order a selection of dishes together, a whole deep-fried (or steamed) fish and a selection of prawns or crabs, place them in the middle of the table and help yourself to a bit of each, Thai style.

One remarkable feature of the menu is that many of the dishes are typically Southern-Thai cuisine, featuring an extensive seafood selection, and with a great many dishes with creamy sauces, and curries being made with the coconut milk that typifies dishes from this region. Some of these items are never seen on the average tourist-style menu.

But – just a word of caution. The menu here is Thai, prepared and cooked the way the Thais themselves eat it. And if you have been accustomed to Thai food in your hometown or in one of the big hotels or resorts here, then really ‘authentic’ Thai food might come as a bit of a surprise – I’ve even seen indignant comments on TripAdvisor complaining that the curry was too spicy! So be prepared; this is a genuine Thai dining experience, so if you want the spiciness toned down just ask when ordering.

So look out for the unusual ‘Krua Chao Baan Omelette’, which appears more like a cake, or maybe the ‘Hor Muk’ – an unusual curry-custard seafood dish served on a banana leaf. Although the menu makes concessions to western habits by attempting to section the dishes into ‘starters’,

And it closes at around 10:00 pm. The name ‘Krua Chao Baan’ means ‘local Thai kitchen’ – and that’s exactly what you’ll be getting!

Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7741 8589 or 0 7741 9889.

Krua Chao Baan opens at 10:00 am, so you can also drop in during the day for breakfast or a pasta or spaghetti dish, or a burger or sandwich.

Maenam Bophut Nathon

Chaweng

Samui

Lamai

www.drfrogs.com

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SLOWING DOWN AT SHASA Some of the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most laid back fine-dining is at Shasa Resort & Residences.

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I know we keep saying it but, this is another hidden gem! But, then, that’s one of the features of a paradise island with lots of nooks and crannies, and lovely little places that are hidden from view. In this case we’re heading right off the beaten track, way down in the far south of Samui at Laem Set. This area is truly one of the few remaining parts of the island that’s unspoiled and really lovely. And this is where you’ll find the 5-star luxury of Shasa Resort & Residences. Shasa is not exactly a new name, having been here for a while now. But it is a bit of an innovator, as it was one of the first quality resorts to discover this secluded part of the island. There are no main roads, no traffic noise, rarely even the cruising sound of a fishing boat. The streets all around and leading to the resort are more like narrow and leafy country lanes, and the same lush tropical countryside permeates into the resort.

There’s a boutique, a health club, fitness centre, spa and restaurant, all set discretely amidst the tropical greenery, with wonderfully embryonic pools sculpted into the scheme, along with the naturally-occurring granite bedrock which peeps through the surface here and there. And, everywhere you are, there’s that fabulous view down and out over the sea below. But it’s the restaurant we’re here for: Beyond the Sea Siamese Brassiere, to give it its full title. The decor here is earthy and simple, the smooth wooden planks of the decking contrasting pleasingly with the vertical slabs of rough-hewn timber on the outer wall, with the floor-to-ceiling windows offsetting this, clad tastefully with Mediterranean-style wooden shutters. The cuisine is what they unassumingly describe as ‘traditional Thai’. But let me say right away . . . that it’s not! Traditional Thai food is what you’ll find everywhere; in the little Thai restaurants with

their garden furniture, and out on the streets in the noodle stalls and carts. This ‘cuisine’ is cheap and cheerful, and uses the cheapest ingredients they can find. But not so at Beyond the Sea. The difference here is that all the dishes are put together with the finest of quality ingredients – grain-fed beef and lamb from the USA, Australia and New Zealand. And believe me, the way this changes Thai cuisine is incredible. The place settings, the table décor, the cutlery and flatware, are all elegantly modern, and with some of the nicest ceramic sets you’ll see anywhere. This is fine dining – Thai style. One of the most interesting places on Samui is the Muslim fishing village in Hua Thanon, with its picture-postcard colourful fishing boats. And this is where the chefs from Shasa go each morning for their day’s fish and seafood – everyone likes to boast that their seafood is fresh, but here at Beyond the Sea it really is!

The menu is neatly sectioned into Thai and International, but with a positive emphasis on the Thai side of things. Executive Chef, Khun Buncha, is running the kitchen here, and he’s the creative genius behind such offerings as the Spicy Crab Carbonara or the intriguing range of pizzas with Thai-style toppings. Every now and then, Khun Buncha gets a flash of inspiration, and then runs a special feature for a month. And this month you’ll be able to explore his ‘Fish Festival’ creations. This is the season for the superb sea bass for which this region is renowned. And, together with the daily supplies of fresh mackerel and imported salmon and tuna, there’s a full menu featuring some intriguingly delicious Thai dishes – such as the ‘Pla Tod Samun Prai’ – deep fried whole sea bass with crispy Thai herbs and mixed vegetables. Needless to say, there’s a superb wine list, with hand-picked labels, both New World and classic,

plus a good range of sparkling wines and champagne. And, of course, a full vegetarian menu that runs to several pages. Plus there’s a separate menu just for kiddies. Finally – and this is what they call a ‘deal-maker’ – free transport for you. A pick-up and return service to your resort. All of which makes it easy to enjoy one of the best dining spots around, as you head over to Shasa – and can completely slow down for the evening!

Rob De Wet For reservations and to book your complimentary transport, telephone 0 7791 3888. www.shasahotels.com

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Tropical Pick

A farang a day? A closer look at the ubiquitous guava.

It’s been going on for almost 300 years. It keeps on happening. And it’ll probably keep on going until the end of time. If you haven’t yet realised what I mean, try this. In a restaurant, or when buying fruit from a stall, pick out a guava, or order guava slices. And then listen carefully for the response in Thai. You don’t need to understand the language. All you need to do is to keep your ears open for the word ‘farang’ (pronounced ‘falang’), usually said with a grin. Congratulations. You have just discovered the oldest Thai joke of all, and one of which nobody ever seems to tire. Because a guava is a ‘farang’. And so, also, are you. This is an aspect that’ll bring a stifled shriek to the lips of everyone coming from a politically-correct first-world nation. But in most Asian countries everything’s a lot more easy-going. In Thailand, the word ‘farang’ means, literally, ‘foreign’. And it’s attached to all sorts of things which have come into Thailand from outside. Chewing gum, for instance, is ‘mak farang’ – referring to a foreign sort of ‘chewing nut’. The humble potato is ‘man farang’, where ‘man’ is the word for a tuber. But there are only two occasions when the word is used by itself. One is the generic word for a foreign person. The other is the specific word for a guava.

Thus the never-failing chuckle about ‘farang likes to eat farang’, and the origins of both are the same. Somewhere about 300 years ago, Portuguese traders showed up. These were the first ‘farang’ to appear in Thailand. They brought strange and unusual things with them. The most immediately-acclaimed of these was the guava. (How odd that it wasn’t the chilli-pepper!) Thus, out of all the foreign fruits that were later to root their way into Thai favour, the first one of them was dubbed simply ‘farang’.

means different things to different people. If you’re from the USA, then there are a whole load of different types of guavas in the markets, 90% of them grown in the southern states. There are pink ones and green and yellow ones, some smooth and some with lumpy skin, some bitter, some sweeter, and all of them tasting different as they ripen. You’ll even find imported Thai seed-stock guavas which have been cultivated in the subtropical regions – Florida, Southern California and Hawaii – at double the price!

Very few Thai people seem to know this – despite the name, they still perceive the guava as an indigenous Thai fruit. It was actually first discovered growing in Central and Southern America, from whence it was spread by local tribes into the Caribbean region. This was where it was later discovered by New World traders, in the 16th century. And, a hundred years later, it found its way to Asia and Thailand, where it flourished and was quickly assimilated into the region’s flora.

And if you live in Europe, you’ll see adverts for the “fragrant, juicy flesh of the guava” which will be either pale yellow or salmon-coloured. You’ll stumble over forums where folks are asking for guava growing advice, and come across angry online consumers demanding the availability of tinned guavas. At which point your YouTube video would resume with another still-frame caption, this time reading simply “What the heck!” Then an educated and dispassionate voice-over would be heard to say . . . “But are we all on the same page here?” Because there’s a whole load of stuff which just doesn’t add up!

If this story was a YouTube video, this is the bit where the flow of the pictures and the commentary would grind to a slow halt, and in the silence, a caption would appear saying ‘But wait a moment!’ Because the word ‘guava’

Let’s put it another way. Hit Google again and do a search for ‘the five worst tropical fruits’. Spend a while in this area. You’ll discover

something quite interesting. At a guess, a Thailand poll of the top five favourite fruits will include guava, papaya and durian. Outside of Thailand, much of the rest of the world gives these a big thumbs-down! It’s a puzzle. When papaya was first introduced (not long after guava), the Royal Court could only manage tiny nibbles, and only if the stuff was slathered in sugar. Meanwhile the rest of the nation couldn’t get enough of it raw. It’s the same with guava. Thailand munches tons of it, raw and sour, every day. It looks like sliced apple. It has the texture of an apple before it’s ready to eat – hard, white, crunchy, and dry. It tastes like tough, unripe green apples – sour and bitter. But everyone here loves it. And guess what? It’s really, really, good for you! There are a few tropical fruits that simply mesmerise by their nourishment quotient – in other words, what they look and taste like bears no relation to the amount of good they do you. Guava is one of these. A further curiosity is that the Thai nation can’t bear to eat snacks unless they contain a minimum of 16% sugar, preferably more. But they will cheerfully chew all day on the sourest of fruit. Guava, as a prime example, is a storehouse of vitamin C and is crammed full of lycopene and antioxidants,

which not only inhibit the formation of free radicals, but are also essential for dermic development. They are additionally rich in manganese, which helps the body to absorb many of the other key nutrients. Guavas also contain folate, a mineral which helps stimulate fertility. And the potassium in guavas helps to regulate blood pressure levels, as well. Somewhere back in the uneducated mists of English history, it was considered beneficial to eat an apple a day. The Thai nation at this time didn’t have a diet of potatoes and porridge – or even apples. They ate vegetables, greens, rice, fish and poultry. Lots of it. Plus a whole load of exceptionally nutritious fruits, most of which the Victorian English had never even heard about. And that’s quite probably why, in Thailand, you might just come across wisdom which advises you to ‘eat a guava a day’. It makes so much more sense than an apple!

Rob De Wet

Fine Beachside Dining with Spectacular Sunsets

THE SIAM RESIDENCE B o u t i q u e

R e s o r t

Thai & International cuisine in Lipa Noi / Koh Samui Phone: +66 (0) 77 420 008 | samui@siamresidence.com | www.siamresidence.com

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Beauty Spot

Olivio Restaurant at Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort & Spa specializes in private romantic dinners right by the beach.

A must-visit for anyone who enjoys combining a beautiful seaside setting with a restaurant that offers wonderful cuisine, Olivio has been charming its diners since it first opened. At its heart, there’s a dual-nationality ethos at work; both Italian and Thai cuisines are equally represented, and Olivio has a reputation for excellence for both. Every dish on offer is super-tasty, thanks to fresh, top-quality ingredients, know-how and the sheer hard work that goes into making as much as possible in-house – think homemade gnocchi, ravioli and fettucine, sauces from scratch and soups that are produced from individual ingredients. They also bake all their own bread and cakes. The restaurant is located at Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort & Spa, in the very northernmost part of Chaweng. It’s a surprisingly calm spot; because it’s on the edge of town, it’s not a high-volume tourist site, and the beach here is never crowded despite the views being amazingly good. At night those views turn startling: from the restaurant you can see whole necklaces of lights along the bay here and up in the hills. It’s very romantic. Which brings us to the next point: Olivio is an ideal place for a candlelit dinner with your beloved. You can definitely have that in the restaurant – many couples do – but there’s a further option; you can dine out right in the open air in a luxury gazebo. It’ll be decorated with flowers and candles, and will either be on the terrace immediately overlooking the beach or right on the sands themselves. The precise setting depends on the weather and the tides. For the private dinner, you’ll definitely need to book your place at least a day ahead to avoid

disappointment. At the same time, let staff know if there’s anything else you would like for the occasion and they’ll do their utmost to provide it for you. Turn up before sunset and enjoy a cocktail before the dinner starts – Olivio has a pleasing range of them – and just soak up the atmosphere of the place. The private dinner is ideal for a birthday, engagement, or well, anything romantic. You can choose between Italian, European and Thai menus. The difficulty is to choose exactly which one, but whatever you opt for, it’ll be satisfying. Olivio is run by a Thai chef who knows how to make sinfully good food, both Italian and Thai, Chef Jakkarin Huaysan, though he’s more usually known as Khun Chay. Talk to him and you’ll find a highly-motivated person, who’s there to fulfil your every need. The Thai menu consists of favourites from the nation’s cuisine. For starters there are options for chicken satay, spring rolls and prawn cake, then a coconut milk seafood soup which is in turn followed by delicious main courses: fried king prawns with tamarind or green curry with seabass. For dessert, there’s mango sticky rice to end the dinner. The European set menu starts with chicken consommé, followed by a mixed salad, then a delicate snow fish with lemon and white wine cream sauce along with grilled vegetables. Molten lava cake with vanilla ice-cream is an exceptionally moreish dessert to finish with.

equally great choice. It continues with yummy homemade spinach fettuccine with veal, then for mains there’s Australian beef tenderloin in mushroom sauce, while for dessert, there’s chocolate mousse served with strawberry sauce. Each of the menus includes a bottle of house red or white wine, and to finish, tea or coffee. No matter which of the options you choose, you’ll want to linger, as the setting is exceptional. So are the staff, too; they’re friendly and very professional. Even if you don’t come for romantic purposes, this is one restaurant that people seem to love coming to. Being part of a hotel, it’s open all day, so you’re welcome to drop in, even for breakfast. Snacks and lunches are also great options here. And incidentally, if you’ll be coming from either Chaweng or Choeng Mon, then avail yourself of the free pick-up and return service that the restaurant offers. Thanks to the tasty Italian and Thai food and the sheer beauty of the spot, Olivio is a brilliant find, whether you’re celebrating romance or not. With its inspiring menus, it’s always an enjoyable experience!

Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information telephone 077 332950-7 or email booking@baanhaadngam.com. www.baanhaadngam.com

Starting with a mixed salad with mozzarella cheese as hors d’oeuvre, the Italian set is an

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Bags of Bugs Edible and delicious insects are enjoyed across Thailand. your plate, but when it comes to sheer convenience, it’s hardly surprising that people eat them. They’re cheap and readily available. When faced with a bag of bugs, we will probably wonder how yucky they will taste, given their appearance. Well, we need have no fears there. None taste bad; in fact most vary between okay and delicious.

them, apart from salt and pepper and perhaps a little soy sauce. They're definitely not spiced up with chillies. No particular etiquette is involved in eating them – pop them into the mouth whole, if they're not too big. One caveat: if your bug comes with legs that look razor sharp, twist them off. It’s actually possible to cut the inside of your mouth otherwise. Grasshoppers are one of the major draws in the insect world. Thais cook them fully intact and they tend to be eaten whole. The texture is agreeably crunchy, a bit like potato chips. The taste is fairly bland, and mostly consists of the salt, pepper and perhaps a few flavourings. These critters can be quickly crunched up due to the air content.

Do Thais really eat – and enjoy – bugs? They do. Just look at the trays of insects, piled high. This is not for show. This is snack-time, Thai style. If your first reaction is to make a face or turn away with disgust, this is not how most Thais view this lesser-known fare.

But how to proceed without gagging? Take a small bite, aim to think of the deliciousness of what you're eating rather than how it looks or feels in your mouth, and you'll be pleasantly surprised. Even more surprising is that if you get into a habit of eating insects you'll be doing your body an immense favour. Insects are highly nutritional; most are packed with protein, healthy fats, iron, and calcium. They're low in carbohydrates. Some claim they're more nutritious than meat. For example, beef may contain twice as much protein, but it also tops out at four times as much fat than the humble cricket. The truth is that insects are good for you, without being particularly fattening.

Insects may look as if they belong solely in a biology lesson, rather than in a kitchen or on

In Thailand, they're most often deep-fried, though occasionally boiled. Little is added to

Thai cuisine has become popular the world over. Everyone it seems wants to give it a try. Dishes are based around the huge variety of foodstuffs that the land, rivers and sea produce. Meats, fish, vegetables – Thailand abounds with them. As it does too with, err, insects. They too have their part in the cuisine, albeit a relatively minor one. Go on a short stroll through a temple fair or through the streets of Bangkok, and you'll see plenty of bugs on display. If you haven’t been brought up on them, your culinary open-mindedness may be faced with a challenge. Bugs, insects, worms – there’s a whole plethora of foods out there that don’t somehow have the same ranking as that delicious green curry or som tam that many of us are so fond of.

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Giant water bugs certainly look unsightly, but ‘maeng daa’, as they're called in Thai, are a kind of insect staple across the nation. They're on the big side and need a bit of attention before eating. Using your fingers, pull off the outer wings, which are too hard to eat. Then you can eat the body and decide for yourself if it tastes more like liquorice or aniseed. Your treat’s not finished until you’ve tucked into the head, which has a

sour, slightly crab-like taste. They're incidentally an ingredient in some types of chilli sauce – you may unwittingly be already familiar with them. If you're more oriented towards Italian flavours, then rediscover the taste of gnocchi (or something approaching it) but with a slightly nutty overlay. All you have to do is to snack on silk worms. They're easy to eat as they're small, just over a centimetre long, and though they're deep-fried they're gooey rather than crispy. If you're grossed out by all of this, yet still want to be able to say that you’ve dined on bugs, then opt for bamboo worms. Slightly bigger than silk worms, their taste is fairly nondescript. Simply imagine you're snacking on something innocuous, such as popcorn. Crickets are definitely a bug favourite of Thailand. Eat every bit of them, popping them into your mouth by the handful, as you would with crisps. They have a rather dry taste, so you might want to wash the taste down with some water. Be aware they taste quite strong too, a rather earthy flavour, and are perhaps not the ideal choice if you're new to bug tasting.

Most insects don’t have disturbing tastes. Overall they're mostly just crispy and salty. As with all alarming-looking foodstuffs, it pays not to look too closely or too long. Few non-Thais get into the habit of eating them, although this is set to change in the most massive way possible. Thanks to their nutrition and cheapness, many scientists and agricultural advisors are slating them as the food of the future, albeit in processed form. You may leave Thailand without ever snacking on insects, but they are, so to speak, waiting in the wings. Sooner or later the word on the street will be ‘bon appétit!’

Dimitri Waring

You Ordered a What?! The language barrier can often pose a problem when ordering in restaurants.

Ordering in a restaurant in Thailand can sometimes be hit and miss. And while staff in tourist areas will have some knowledge of English, there are still often errors due to miscommunication. Before we get in to how you can avoid some of these common pitfalls when ordering, let’s look at a few examples of what we mean. Of course we’ve had many of our own experiences and have learnt by trial and error, but to get a broader spectrum, we posed the question of ‘what went wrong’ to several expats on the island. One mistake that kept popping up is asking for a glass of white wine, and being brought the Wi-Fi password. Go on, say it out loud. See? It’s an easy mistake to make. Sometimes the reverse happens too, and you’ll end up having a few drinks when all you wanted to do was answer your emails, as you feel too bad to send back that glass of wine. One local lady ordered a glass of Bailey’s liqueur and got brought a bay leaf on a plate – wonder what the waiter thought she wanted that for? Another drinks related episode – one of our ADV ALS Wining and Dining 366x118mm FA visitors asked for a single espresso, and was

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given a Singha beer instead. And, as one expat described, “I ordered a Cuba Libre in one bar, and was told ‘no have’, so I ordered a rum and coke instead – and got one.” Right, so here’s the first tip: Unless the establishment has the quirky name of the drink on their menu, where you can literally point and order, stick to calling it what it actually is, as the case above points out. So rather than ordering a ‘Screwdriver’, order a vodka and orange juice, or you may just find the barman running down to the maintenance room. And in much the same way, it’s probably best not to ask for your scotch ‘on the rocks’, but rather with ice. Sometimes, you have to wonder what the poor waiter must think of you, when you discover the miscommunication. Another expat recalls asking a bartender if he could make Jaegerbombs, and he promptly came back with the phone number of the local drug dealer. Oh dear. Yet another embarrassing story is that of regular visitors to the island. They asked at a local café where they could try a Thai barbecue… only to be told that 1 10:12 AM the 3/21/17 temple was ‘burning a monk’ the next day,

so they should go down there. Not quite what they had in mind. Menus themselves are often cause for confusion. Some are obvious spelling errors, easy enough to decipher, and you’ll commonly see ‘snakes’ instead of shakes, and ‘French fried’ instead of fries. And then there’s the tongue in cheek faux pas, ‘orgasmic’ vegetables instead of, you guessed it, organic. Don’t be alarmed if you read ‘horse shit crap’ on the menu. It’s meant to read as ‘horse shoe crab’. And ‘fried crap in curry sauce’ is more delicious than it sounds. But other times, you just have to wonder what on earth is meant with menu items such as ‘Fried pork with pour the page’, or ‘Fried pork with the cotton that stops’. Evidently, Google translate has missed the mark with these. Another tip would be to learn the names of a few of your favourite dishes or ingredients. Just as important would be the names of items that you’re allergic to or can’t eat, such as peanuts or seafood. For the vegetarians, say ‘gin jae’ and you’ll be fine. Many restaurants now put pictures next to the menu items, which help a lot. And to

avoid mispronunciation, it’s often better to point at the menu when ordering. Sometimes, the item is written in Thai underneath, making it easier for the waiter to get it right. When placing your order, a couple of things will help to actually get what you ordered. So remembering the barman with the screwdriver and rocks, the same applies to food. Don’t use idioms such as ‘sunny side up’ or ‘easy over’ when talking about eggs, or ‘blue’ when you want your steak only seared. Remember too that the waiter is dealing with customers of many nationalities, so your ‘ketchup’ may be another’s ‘tomato sauce’, or ‘chips’ may be ‘French fries’. When placing your order, speak slowly and clearly. Focus on clearly enunciating and slowing down, but without sounding like a stretched tape. Speak naturally, but without connecting your words, even if you’re pressured for time. Don’t rush through your communication, as doing so often takes more time, as misunderstandings can result and you’ll ultimately have to invest additional time in clearing up the confusion – or just accepting what got delivered to your table. Point to the

item listed on the menu, to back up what you’re saying. Be patient. Cross-cultural communication takes more time and you can’t expect it to occur with the same speed and ease as with someone from your own culture. Relax, enjoy the view, and remember to say, ‘mai pen rai’, when things go wrong. For those not in the know, this is a common Thai phrase that basically translates to ‘no worries’, while at the same time, accepting the situation for what it is. Another important point – be careful not to sound patronising – not understanding another language does not mean the person is of lower intelligence. And speaking louder is no solution, yet common to witness. So take note of the tips above, but if the wrong dish arrives, sometimes it’s better to just accept it. You never know, you may have just accidentally discovered your new favourite dish! The universe works in mysterious ways.

Rosanne Turner

CMY

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Lobster Muddles It might be ‘seafood’, but not all lobsters are lobsters! What’s the difference between a lobster, a crawfish, a crayfish, a rock lobster and a spiny lobster? And if you’re smart enough to answer that, then what about warm-water lobster and cold-water lobster? Saltwater or freshwater? It’s an important question. And it’s one which has a direct bearing on what you’ll see on your plate when you order your seafood in Thailand. Of course, if you’re eating in a restaurant where you can see everything out on show, packed in ice, then that’s different. You can see what you’re getting. That’s much better. Or is it? Lobster is an expensive item, and far fewer of them are sold than any other kind of seafood. So who knows how long the ones out on ice have been there, getting put back into the freezer each night until sold. But, of course, that holds true for all seafood that’s been frozen. There are dozens of types of ‘lobster’ (and I’m not going to bore you with the Latin names of the species and sub-species) and they all have different characteristics. Opinion varies, but certainly some of the best examples anywhere are the ones found off the coast of New England in America. The thing to look for is the size of the claws. The claw meat is particular succulent, and this kind of lobster has more meat than any other sort. These are cold-water lobsters, which in general have a better texture and flavour than the others. And, yes, you can find these in Thailand, including Samui, if you really look around for them. Many of the top restaurants import lobsters (for the reasons already stated), but not from the USA. The Canadian equivalents are indistinguishable and much more readily accessible. These are always shipped alive and deep-chilled rather than frozen, as freezing affects both texture and flavour. But to partly answer the questions at the top, what you’ll certainly find just about everywhere are what everyone calls ‘Phuket lobster’. However, these aren’t lobsters at all. They’re actually salt water crayfish. You don’t need to be an expert to tell the difference – crayfish don’t have any claws at all, just a pair of long spiny feelers at the front end. The bodies are smaller in comparison, too having generally less flesh throughout, with all the meat being in the tail part. (If you’re wondering, the answers to the questions at the top are as follows: crawfish, crayfish, rock lobster and spiny lobster are all names for the same thing, although there are salt water and freshwater varieties. Indeed, it’s a

common practice in Thai farming communities to put baby crawfish in the water of the paddy fields. They eat anything and everything, and when the rice is harvested there’s a nice little bonus as the flooded fields dry out.) And the name ‘Phuket’ in ‘Phuket lobster’? Well, they at one time came from the Andaman Sea, where the island of Phuket is to be found, although now all this type of lobster goes by the same name. If you see these out on display at any of the local restaurants here, then the chances are they’ve been shipped over from Phuket or Hua Hin, as there are none in the area around Samui – although they’re also farmed extensively, particularly in Northern Thailand. But there are different types of ‘lobster’ in the Andaman Sea, so keep an eye out for the rainbow ones, as they are by far the biggest and most succulent. When it comes to enjoying such fare on Samui, you’ve got three choices. Firstly, head for a gourmet restaurant where they have live Canadian lobsters in tanks. Second, try an on-the-street seafood restaurant for your Phuket lobster. Finally, keep an eye out for a roadside Thai seafood restaurant – here it’s much more fun! First you’ll have the entertainment of watching the cook prepare it right in front of you – the usual way is to begin by cutting the lobster into two loosely-hinged halves, spread open, then steamed for five minutes before they go on a charcoal grill. And then it’s really up to you how you want it finished and presented. You could have the meat removed and stir-fried or curried (lobster massaman is a particular favourite). But for the total lobster orgasm, ask for it cooked with butter and garlic and place it at the centre of the table. Then pull in a variety of dishes – fried rice, morning glory, a clear soup and a variety of raw mixed vegetables – and eat it Thai-style, taking a bit of each onto your plate as you go – this beats lobster thermidor hands down, any day of the week! Samui is a great place for seafood and particularly crustaceans, of which the lobster is undisputed king. But choose carefully. You have a lot of options, and for the best selection it’s advisable not to get in a muddle!

Rob De Wet

GENUINE NEAPOLITAN PIZZA

ON CHAWENG BEACH, OPPOSITE CENTRAL FESTIVAL

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Acrobatics, Spicy Fingers and Belgium Mussels It’s all going on, at Coast Beach Club and Bistro.

Coast Beach Club and Bistro, part of Centara Grand Beach Resort on Chaweng Beach, has the look of a fashionably modern, whitewashed beach house. Expansive decking underfoot, natural furniture and crisp white sail-canopies that protect the outside dining and lounge areas from the daytime sun. There is a multitude of seating arrangements; tables and chairs, sofas, novel seating in hanging baskets and sunken circular daybeds, all right by the beautiful sandy beach and gently lapping waves. There are also three air-conditioned indoor areas. The cosy pizza pavilion has a fully functioning pizza oven and seating for around ten people. Or you can peruse the wines and large array of cheeses, cold cuts and delicacies in the wine cellar. And the largest indoor area has its own bar and seating for up to 40 people, used primarily for private parties and in the rare case of bad weather. Nothing has been overlooked at Coast; it is an exceptionally stylish and sophisticated, yet adventurous and fun dining venue. So, from 11.00 am until 11.00 pm, just relax, let go and enjoy. The all-day, all evening a la carte menu (which is presented on iPads), has a vast selection of international cuisine with a Mediterranean bias, and is overseen by Barcelona native, Chef Sandro Aguilera.

All dishes are clearly labelled, identifying vegetarian and those that contain nuts, pork or alcohol. The wide variety of dishes includes Sustainable Tasmanian Salmon Salad, Black Truffle Risotto, The Down Under (an Australian Angus beef burger with fried egg, smoked bacon, cheddar and beetroot relish) as well as a seafood platter meant for sharing, which includes Maine lobster, tiger prawns, New Zealand mussels and rock lobster, all served with a green salad and the chef’s home-made special sauce. There is also a choice of 13 different pizzas, tapas, pasta, steaks, fish, burgers, salads, and various selections of cold cuts and cheeses. You will find absolutely anything and everything you could possibly desire, all superbly cooked and presented. Don’t forget the scrumptious desserts such as the sublime Key Lime Pie. Expert mixologists craft innovative cocktails, wine lovers can choose from an extensive and award-winning selection, and for those that favour beer, there are a variety of specialist brews to sample. Every Sunday from 12.00 noon until 4.00 pm, a lavish Family Brunch buffet is set out. The in-house DJ sets the scene as you take your time to savour delicacies such as Tasmanian salmon, tiger prawns, imported cheeses, cold cuts and sushi, alongside Thai dishes, roast meats and desserts. A special grill station offers freshly grilled meat and fish to order, and much more. A children’s food corner and supervised beach club

just for kids, with organised games and activities means that you can just relax on the complimentary sun loungers and towels around the pool or on the beach, knowing that your little darlings are in safe hands and being happily entertained. Family brunch packages start at 1,250 baht net per person, including soft drinks. The Gold package offers a bottle of wine between two people and is 1,990 baht per person. And the Platinum package is 2,990 baht net per person, and includes free-flow soft drinks, beer, wine, cocktails and spirits. The cost for children is just 550 baht. Great value for an all you can eat and seriously relaxing food adventure! Extra special events are organised monthly. Check the website or phone for more details. And proving that the managers at Coast really listen to their customers, a ‘Privilege Card’ is available for Samui residents, with a discount of up to 25%. At Coast, there is a perpetually changing and fresh approach to evening entertainment, with special themed events and additional dining choices throughout the week. Monday brings Beach Barbecue evening from 7.00 pm until 10.30 pm. Listen to the gentle breaking of waves and enjoy a spectacular fire show whilst selecting from a wide offering of perfectly barbecued meat and seafood, alongside appetizers, salads and desserts.

Tuesday’s from 5:00 pm until 7:00 pm, while away the sunset hours with Italian Aperitivo. Just order a drink and help yourself to a complimentary plate of amazing antipasti from the wide selection of delicious Italian delicacies. The in-house DJ will keep the happy glow alive throughout the evening. The Mediterranean Circus comes to Coast every Wednesday from 7:00 pm until 10:00 pm. Wow, at the outstanding athletic acrobatic show, moving to tunes from the in-house DJ. Join the circus adventure and try some reinterpretations of iconic recipes found on the special menu. Thursday night is Crazy Lobster night. Fresh lobster, cooked any which way you like, with a choice of sauces and accompaniments. ‘Spicy Fingers’, a top-rated Filipino band, liven up this fun evening with saxophone, beatbox and guitar. Belgium Mussels are Friday’s feature. From 7:00 pm until 10:00 pm enjoy a skillet of mussels served with a blue cheese or aioli sauce, French fries and toast, whilst listening to the funky Friday tunes from the in-house DJ. ‘S’ is for Saturday ‘Steak Out’. Select your preferred 200-gram steak from the range of cuts imported fresh from Australia and New Zealand. Cooked to order with your selection of sauces, salad and vegetables. A true meat

lover’s delight, with a surprise accompaniment from a talented aria singer. Steak and opera! Coast Bistro and Beach Club is located at the southern end of the Chaweng Beach Road as you move into the two-way section of the road. Drive into the entrance to Centara Grand Beach Resort and turn right to find the designated Coast car park. If you are on foot, there is a Coast pedestrian entrance directly on the road just a bit further south. Whether you choose from the a la carte menu or join for the Sunday brunch or another event, you are guaranteed great food, fantastic music and a fun atmosphere. At Coast you will enjoy the ultimate in laid-back cool – sipping chilled drinks, feasting on fresh food and sharing stories and laughter with friends and loved ones under the sun and the stars. It’s definitely ‘all going on’ here at Coast.

Karan Ladd For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7723 0500. www.coast-samui.com

Beachside Dining at its Best

餐厅-歡迎中國貴賓

Romantic Dinner I Seafood Basket with Lobster For reservations, please call 077 956 055 www.siamwininganddining.com 17

Last Orders This issue’s tipple of the month – Rum.

The history of rum began obscurely enough. Some 4,000 years ago, people started cultivating a type of grass. It was called Saccharum and, as its name suggests, it was sweet. Some 1,000 years later, records tell us that it was being processed and then drunk; the grass, sugar cane, was fermented and turned into a kind of beer. However, there were many more centuries to go before the first rum was produced; by then the humble grass would be very much a part of the world’s history. In its early days, sugar played a role in two very different regions: the Islamic east and the Christian west. Popular just about everywhere, sugar had already become a significant commodity to trade, and became even more so as time went on. Sugar, of course, was wildly addictive. It became a staple part of many cuisines, but it was mostly eaten. For it to become a spirit – rum – it was first necessary for Columbus to set sail, taking with him samples of that famed grass, Saccharum. In 1492, he voyaged west, discovered what he thought was Japan, and perhaps without much thought planted sugar cane in the Caribbean.

Sugarcane took to the new soils, later to be harvested by indigenous natives. All too soon there weren’t enough workers; a massive labour force was required to plant and harvest the sugar cane, which was now growing not just in the Caribbean, but also in America. The solution came distressingly easily - slaves. It was they who toiled, made huge profits for their masters and also got the rum trade going. Rum was also an extraordinary example of successful waste recycling. Planters were all grateful for the chance to make rum, not just because of the profits, but because when they were making sugar by crushing cane, a yucky viscose liquid would be left behind as by-product: molasses. And there would be a huge amount of it. By fermenting it with liquid skimmed from cane juice in its initial boiling, a very alcoholic distillate could be made. This was known as rum. Rum was looked on with some disapproval, if not alarm. Not because it was harvested by slaves, but because it was such a dangerous drink. Rum was widely drunk, for example, on

Barbados, as recorded by a visitor who seemed anything but enamoured of it: “The chief fuddling they make on the island is Rumbullion, alias Kill-Devil, and is made of sugar canes distilled, a hot, hellish, and terrible liquor”. Just a few years beforehand, the Portuguese mandated that rum was banned from general consumption – only slaves were allowed to drink it. What was dangerous for others made it more amenable for them to do their back-breaking work for their owners, and cane spirit was popular amongst them. But gradually, rum began to be drunk by more and more people; not just slaves but a more general population, along with the wealthy and the various elites at that time. In 1655, the first recorded rum ration was granted to British sailors after their beer supplies ran out. In time, the new liquor became a tradition – one that would last for more than 300 years as part of sailors’ daily rations. Rum was gradually undergoing a transition from being a lethal drink to one that was seen in a more positive light. And sometimes even more than that. It was thought to have great medicinal

properties, and was said to be beneficial in cases of digestion, scurvy and dropsy. It was considered antiseptic and was used as an anaesthetic as well. When Lord Admiral Nelson died at the battle of Trafalgar, his body was preserved in brandy. That decision came under attack – it should have been rum, not brandy, according to some. As the Pilgrims and colonialists gradually settled America, rum played its role there, and was heavily traded. It became increasingly popular in the colonies, even ones that were far-flung. In Australia, rum was the currency used to build the first hospital there, officially called Rum Hospital, as well as the first church. Rum was creatively served there, with the police often being called out to deal with the effects of the drink. A popular early cocktail consisted of a poisonous berry, brandy, opium, as well as rum– all mixed together with water. Rum’s benefits were the same as gold; it could be used as payment, deposit or bribe, and was generally welcome wherever barrels could roll.

important part in the founding of the new world and was the lifeblood of the poor. These days it’s drunk in incredible quantities, and most of us are oblivious to the stories and fables of its inception. Undoubtedly rum tastes a lot better these days than it used to; it stands equivalent to Cognac and can be thought of as a sipping drink. There are about 1,500 rums produced in the world, varying from immense industrial distilleries through to individual concerns that produce small batches, with extremely limited aged rums that are of interest to connoisseurs. Rum has an extraordinary appeal, whether it’s being drunk by itself, or as is done more commonly, as a mojito or planter’s punch. A civilized tipple, of course, though for anyone even half aware of its past, there’s still a frisson in every glass.

Dimitri Waring

Nowadays, rum’s blood-soaked past is largely forgotten, as is the fact it played such an

Sabienglae restaurants offer traditional fresh seafood and cuisine in an authentic southern Thai style. Come and enjoy our unique dishes, many of which you won’t find elsewhere on the island, in a relaxing atmosphere. An experience to truly complete your holiday.

Sabienglae Restaurant

The Wharf Samui, Fishermans’s Village For reservation please call 077 332 651

18 www.siamwininganddining.com

Hin Ta Hin Yai, Samui Ring Road For reservation please call 077 233 082-3

Wimaan Buri Resort, Chaweng Ring Road For reservation please call 077 962 333

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort presents a wide range of restaurants and bars featuring a variety of cuisines to suit all tastes. Premium cocktails and selected wines are also available in each outlet.

STAR

A stunning rooftop bar where you can sip our signature cocktails and enjoy some snacks while watching the sunset or gazing at the stars above. Open: 17.00-23.30hrs.

The Height

Sun Deck

Wine and Cigar Lounge

OďŹ&#x20AC;ering an extensive menu of delightful Thai cuisine, the restaurant has both air-conditioned and open air seating options, all with stunning views of the surrounding sea. Open: 17.00-22.30hrs.

Exclusive dining on the deck with breathtaking views.Enjoy International delights in a romantic setting with your loved one. Please reserve in advance.

Refreshments, cocktails and snacks with a selection of premium wines and cigars to enjoy the breathtaking view.

Open:18.00-22.30hrs.

Open: 17.00-23.30hrs

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort 208/66 Moo4, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84310 Thailand Tel: (+66) 077 960 555 Fax: (+66) 077 960 055 www. Silavadeeresort.com www.siamwininganddining.com 19

Rice Barge &

Terrace

Fine Beachside Dining at the Rice Barge & Terrace Authentic Thai Cuisine WEEKLY CALENDAR MONDAY Candlelight Set Dinner for 2 persons at Rice Barge Thai Cuisine and The Barge TUESDAY - GRILLED NIGHT Chef Special Thai or Western set menu for 2 persons at Rice Barge and The Barge WEDNESDAY - HAWAIIAN STYLE Hawaiian Seafood Buffet THB 1,290/person Children 6-12 half price (Special price for advance reservations) Entertainment: The Barge Band and Polynesian show. Free Management Cocktail & Canapes 6-7 pm THURSDAY Thai or Western set menu for 2 persons at Rice Barge Thai Cuisine and The Barge EVERY DAY Thai Cooking Class - Reservation in advance Bartender Master Class - Reservation in advance Happy Hours: Swimming Pool: Hillside 1pm-2pm. Beachside 2pm-3pm Lobby Lounge 6pm-8pm, Rice Barge 6pm-7pm The Barge 6pm-7pm Private Dinner THB 3,500, 7,000, 8,500, 11,000 net Reservation in advance SATURDAY - WEEKEND DAY Rice Barge & Terrace Authentic Thai Cuisine Chef Signature Set Menu THB 3,000 for 2 persons SUNDAY - FAMILY DAY The Barge Western Cuisine & Seafood Chef Signature Set Menu THB 3,000 for 2 persons

Rice Barge & Terrace Nora Buri's Signature Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: ricebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com

Chaweng Beach Road Chaweng North

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all happening at Nora Beach Resort & Spa Tuesday Night- Around Asia Night. We invite you to experience a variety of traditional Thai dishes. Price THB 850 per person. Entertainment: Ponglang & Pink 8 Duo Band. Thursday Night - Hawaiian Night. Enjoy our chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s special buffet creations. Price THB 950 net per person. Children 6-12 years old half price. Entertainment: Fire Show & Pink 8 Duo Band. Thai Cooking Class Learn how to cook 3 authentic Thai dishes with our Thai Chef. Inclusive of chef hat, apron, certificate and recipe. Fruit Carving Class Inclusive of chef hat, apron and certificate. Daily Happy Hours Pool Bar 1.00 pm - 2.00 pm & 4.00 pm - 5.00 pm. Prasuthon Restaurant 6.00 pm - 7.00 pm. Lobby Bar 7.00 pm - 8.00 pm & 10.00 pm - 11.00 pm. Romantic Private Dining Dining on the beach with private chef and waiter/waitress. Set menu THB 4,000 for couple. Thai menu THB 6,000 per couple. International menu THB 8,000 per couple. Advance reservation required

For further information please telephone 0 7742 9400 E-mail: reservation@norabeachresort.com www.norabeachresort.com 20 www.siamwininganddining.com