February 2018

SAMUI An underground tunnel telling the story of Poppies and leading you to Samui’s most established restaurant

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FREE COPY

FEBRUARY 2018

Monday & Saturday: Thai Buffet & Beach BBQ THB 900 Net Thursday: International Buffet THB 900 Net Sareeraya Villas & Suites

Call + 66 (0) 77 914 333 www.sareeraya.com

Puppy Love

It’s Chinese New Year, and love is in the air!

A warm welcome – particularly to those of you who are in love! We’ve not long had all the joy and fun of Christmas and the New Year. But now we’re bouncing into another cycle of celebration. And on the 14th of this month, on beaches and in resorts and restaurants everywhere, couples will be gazing into each other’s eyes and declaring their love.

Happily, also, the weather has now changed, the rainy season has passed, and the oppressive heat of the ‘summer’ months of May and June are still far away. And that makes it probably one of the best times of year to come to enjoy all that a tropical island has to offer – daytime lazing by the pool and evening dining under a sky full of stars.

And boy will you be spoiled for choice! Samui is nothing if not famous for its little romantic hideaways, and just about every restaurant will be doing its utmost to woo you by putting on a special meal in a lovely setting.

Plus, everywhere you look you’ll see signs that the Chinese New Year is almost upon us. And on the 16th, it’ll all erupt onto the streets in a word-wide event that’ll mark the Year of the Dog. Keep a look out – it’s not to be missed!

SAMUI

SAMUI An underground tunnel telling the story of Poppies and leading you to Samui’s most established restaurant

www.siamwininganddining.com

FREE COPY

FEBRUARY 2018

Monday & Saturday: Thai Buffet & Beach BBQ THB 900 Net Thursday: International Buffet THB 900 Net Sareeraya Villas & Suites

Call + 66 (0) 77 914 333 www.sareeraya.com

Puppy Love

It’s Chinese New Year, and love is in the air!

A warm welcome – particularly to those of you who are in love! We’ve not long had all the joy and fun of Christmas and the New Year. But now we’re bouncing into another cycle of celebration. And on the 14th of this month, on beaches and in resorts and restaurants everywhere, couples will be gazing into each other’s eyes and declaring their love.

Happily, also, the weather has now changed, the rainy season has passed, and the oppressive heat of the ‘summer’ months of May and June are still far away. And that makes it probably one of the best times of year to come to enjoy all that a tropical island has to offer – daytime lazing by the pool and evening dining under a sky full of stars.

And boy will you be spoiled for choice! Samui is nothing if not famous for its little romantic hideaways, and just about every restaurant will be doing its utmost to woo you by putting on a special meal in a lovely setting.

Plus, everywhere you look you’ll see signs that the Chinese New Year is almost upon us. And on the 16th, it’ll all erupt onto the streets in a word-wide event that’ll mark the Year of the Dog. Keep a look out – it’s not to be missed!

Graeme Malley Editor

Preeda Tuajob (Puy) Graphic Designer

Akaphon Phongninlaarphon (Don) Photographer

Seksak Kerdkanno (Klauy) Webmaster

Rob De Wet Feature Writer

Dimitri Waring Feature Writer

Nipawan Chuaysagul (Ning) Sales & Marketing Director ning@siammap.com Tel: 0 898 783 891

Henrik Bjørk Managing Director

Siam Map Company Ltd. 52/6, Samui Ring Road, Moo 3, Bo Phut, Samui, 84320 Thailand Tel: (66) 0 7742 2201 Fax: (66) 0 7741 3523 email: info@siammap.com www.siammap.com All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial content in any manner is prohibited without written permission from Siam Map Company Ltd. Whilst every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this publication, Siam Map Company Ltd. assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions. Neither is any liability assumed for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein. c Siam Map Company Ltd. 2018

Distribution at Bangkok Airport courtesy of Bangkok Airways.

Reservation Center: 1771 Samui Chaweng Office: 0 7760 1300 www.bangkokair.com

Very Cool Indeed When it comes to dining with flair, Lamai’s Seventy Fahrenheit is really quite a hot spot!

Please recycle or pass on to a friend.

Fresh local fish and seafood, cooked in authentic Thai way by the owner Supattra.

Great international wines!

Just a few tables in an open Thai sala style restaurant facing a mangrove forest.

Tel. 093 2828 777 Open 6:00 pm, closed Sunday & Monday www.facebook.com/supattrathaidining Seatran Ferry

Big Buddha Market

Airport

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You can put two restaurants next to each other, and one works and the other doesn’t. It’s not about price or what’s on the menu. It’s not about location. It’s not even about how nice it looks – although it’s possibly all those things wrapped up together. But as soon as you see Seventy Fahrenheit, you’ll stop and stare. It’s instantly alluring.

although there’s a wall of sheer glass between the two. This is blissfully air-conditioned. Again, a lot of thought has gone into the lighting, playing off cool, daylight spots against rows of warm, antique bulbs, combining to provide a subdued glow, discreet and relaxed, but good enough to easily read the menu without straining.

There’s a buzz to it. The wait-staff are busy, the diners animated-but-relaxed on the front deck that’s raised up and open to the street. The bright green and red lights make pools onto the deck, and splash cheerfully against the clean white back wall. But both side walls are vibrant with living green plants, and there are two full-size palm trees there also.

Coming in, right away you’ll be impressed by the cheerful and professional greeting from the restaurant manager as she shows you to your table. The drinks list and the menu appear, zipped over to you by a smiley waiter who seems to be dancing between the tables, bar and kitchen. A few minutes later another one will skip to your side . . . and then instantly change gear, relax, slow right down, and discuss the particulars of the wine list and menu options, adjusting marvellously to you on a personal level, and taking his time to help you. And then he’ll further impress by powering-up again and jogging off to deliver your order!

These visuals all come together with an effortless excess of flair. This extends to the overall layout, too. There are two areas: the front deck, as mentioned – and this also has an electric roof which will slowly hum closed at the first hint of rain. And then there’s the rear enclosed area,

Actually, all this is not really surprising as the restaurant is owned and directed by Frenchman Romain Benoist, a dedicated bon viveur and hotel owner. Thus the staff here have been very carefully selected and trained at his hotel before graduating to work here at Seventy Fahrenheit.

And most certainly, the quality of care, attention and response is vastly superior to many of the other eateries in the main drag of Lamai – the restaurant is almost directly opposite the landmark of Bondi, right in the centre.

The menu continues to impress. Firstly, it’s lavishly illustrated with photos of the dishes. But these are sheer class: super-high-quality pro photos, printed and presented elegantly and professionally. The cuisine is Thai and International: nothing out of the ordinary here.

Except that, as with everything else at Seventy Fahrenheit, the interpretations of the dishes are offered with verve and originality.

Take the universal starter of Thai spring rolls.

Here they are served standing up in a glass,

looking like the handles of big, flat beige lollipops. There’s no thoughtless churning-out of the little greasy tubes that you often get: the batter is dry, firm and crisp. And the ‘rolls’ are flattened out at one end to create a functional and whimsical ‘handle’.

Order a Thai red curry and it’ll arrive exactly as you’d expect (except that the chicken is corn-fed and the seafood is superb) – but along with the dish you’ll also get a tall glass of red liquid. You can drink it by all means, but it’s actually the red curry sauce that this dish would normally be swimming in. And the rice is a two-tone slab of steamed and wild rice combined.

The same panache and elegance extends throughout the menu. The roasted duck breast, the Australian tenderloin or New Zealand lamb chops; they’re all exquisitely prepared, cooked and presented. Looking at the ‘Pork Fillet Mignon Rolled with Bacon in Mushroom Sauce’ with side vegetables (lots!) and mashed potatoes, French fries, or sautéed potatoes with garlic and herbs,

just makes your mouth water as it’s placed before you on the table.

There’s also an outstanding wine list. Usually a local wine wholesaler suggests what to buy-in.

But here it’s evident that Romain’s passion has led him to create a list of unusual and interesting labels.

Finally, if this wasn’t enough to make you want get over to Lamai tomorrow; the price. It’s astonishingly less than you’ll be expecting after reading this – not expensive in any way. Really.

The whole place is vibrant, there’s a buzz and a charming freshness of vision, the food is fab and the service, superb. Seventy Fahrenheit is one very cool restaurant indeed!

Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 954 199 070.

Welcome to Olivio Italian Cuisine - sit back and enjoy the very best of Italian and Thai food in a relaxing atmosphere.

We’re renowned not just for our great tastes but our beautiful beachside setting too.

Olivio - Beachfront at Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort & Villas Chaweng Beach. Free round trip transfer from Chaweng, Bophut and Choeng Mon. For reservations, please call : +66 77 332 950-7 Fax : +66 77 332 958 E-mail : booking@baanhaadngam.com www.baanhaadngam.com

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Tempting Trio Sabienglae’s three restaurants all offer authentic Thai food at great prices.

The old ways often work best – traditional cuisine is the way forward for the three restaurants simply and collectively known as Sabienglae. They're the brainchild of Khun Amnart Chotchoung, a quietly-spoken figure who comes from the most traditional part of Samui, Ban Taling Ngam on the island’s west coast. He grew up with fishing as the area’s main industry, and says that watching the daily catch being unloaded put him in mind of opening a restaurant. He started with seven tables, wondering if he would break even. His wife, Khun Ying, was the chef – an expert one – and the diners found themselves in good hands. They loved her food, and still do. The couple had to add progressively more tables and chairs as word-of-mouth drove the business forward at a pace that surprised them. A decade later, those seven chairs have become 800, and range across three separate restaurants. But Khun Amnart and Khun Ying still hold to very traditional values and cuisine – this approach they say is largely responsible for their success.

The Sabienglae restaurants are very well-known on the island, but if you're on holiday you may not be familiar with them. If you're at The Wharf in Fisherman’s Village, Bophut, then you'll come across Sabienglae right on the promenade, housed in a very contemporary building. The original restaurant is in Lamai (just past Hinta-Hinyai on the ring-road heading toward Nathon) in a more rustic looking setting. Both command beautiful sea views. The remaining restaurant is in Chaweng, just off the ring-road, south of Tesco-Lotus. They all have similar menus and the same excellent prices. The opening hours are generously long, and each restaurant operates seven days a week. The

Wharf and Chaweng restaurants are open from 11:00 am to 11:00 pm, while the Lamai branch operates from 10:00 am to 10:00 pm.

Browse the menu at any of the restaurants and you'll come across many an item that’ll take your fancy. Most dishes are photographed, allowing you to get an idea of what you're ordering if you're a newbie to Thai cuisine. Ask for spices to be toned up or down, depending on your tastes.

Seafood of many different kinds features at Sabienglae, and you can feast on lobster, crab, mussels, sea bass, snapper, mantis shrimp, river prawns, blue crab and so on. Each restaurant has water tanks that hold live fish, but that’s not all; restaurant teams go out daily to scour markets round the island and also order seafood from places like Phuket and Vietnam.

Start perhaps with the highly-recommended Sabienglae Signature Salad, with options of seafood, shrimp and squid, and then follow with a steamed white snapper with chilli and lemon sauce or one with garlic and pepper. Equally recommended are popular dishes like steamed prawn with glass noodles, octopus and coconut, deep-fried sun-dried squid or herbed crab in a creamy coconut soup. If you're not a fish lover, then there are plenty of meat dishes on offer, and, yes, Sabienglae is also completely at home when it comes to making tasty vegetarian dishes.

If you really aren’t into Thai food at all, then rest assured there’s a western-style section on the menu, too. You can opt for a simple hamburger, a delicious pepper steak or fish and chips, to give a few examples.

BEACHFRONT DINING & COCKTAILS RockPool at Kanda Residences is a spectacular beachfront restaurant and bar situated just five minutes from Chaweng For reservations or more information call +66 77 234 500 www.rockpoolsamui.com Facebook: rockpool.kohsamui Daily high tea from 12pm and happy hour with buy one get one free on selected drinks from 5pm until 7pm.

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A range of very drinkable wines adds to the joy of eating at Sabienglae, and there are naturally all kinds of soft drinks, shakes and beer. Twice a day Khun Amnart orders whole coconuts, and these are grown right here on Samui. He uses them in many dishes and of course in massaman and penang curries. But you can even drink their contents fresh – an entire coconut is brought to your table. Sip through a straw then delve deep with a spoon to get all the goodness.

You'll find, last but not least, a select range of hot and cold Italian coffees to finish off your meal.

And, by the way, you can also enjoy locally-made ice-creams that come in a highly tempting range, including Madagascar vanilla, black chocolate and red chilli or tiramisu. There are plenty of more traditional choices too, along with fruit sorbets.

With not just the one, but three different venues, Sabienglae awaits discovery, and offers great value food in convivial surroundings. The trio of restaurants has more than stood the test of time, and emerged as a dependably delicious source of Thai cuisine with a vast choice of possibilities for lunch or dinner – there are some 250 dishes on the menu at each location, all affordably priced.

Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7743 0094-5 (The Wharf, Bophut); 0 7733 2651-2 (Lamai); 0 7796 2333 (Chaweng).

Exquisite Events & More

Fine food and spectacular themed evenings at The Beach House at Santiburi Samui Beach Resort.

Santiburi Samui Beach Resort commands centre stage on a magnificent stretch of Maenam Beach, with endless idyllic sand in either direction. It was one of the first top class resorts to establish itself on Samui. And after 25 years, it continues to delight the discerning guest who appreciates a fine blend of beauty and sophistication amidst an ambiance of romantic seclusion. The accommodation and the restaurant facilities are equally exquisite, and everyone, not only hotel guests, are welcome to enjoy the mystique and culinary delights of The Beach House restaurant.

The Beach House is not merely a culinary experience; it has also become a hotbed of themed night festivities. At the recent New Year’s Eve gala and Russian Orthodox Christmas celebration, guests were thrilled by a fire show, traditional dance and other dynamic, eclectic performances. The Carnival de Samui on the 10th of February, Valentine’s Day on the 14th, Chinese New Year on the 16th, International Women’s Day (March 8th), St. Patrick’s Day (March 17th) and Easter are but a few of the spectacular evenings and events being planned. Romance, costumes, a carnival, an egg hunt, a Russian dance troupe, poolside fireworks, Chinese acrobats, dancing dragons and a lion show … well, that’s just some of what The Beach House has in store, as colour, energy, culture, and fun will surely abound. Experience it all while

savouring a buffet of delectable Chinese fare, oysters, chilli and chocolate ‘aphrodisiacs’ for the romantic or any of the countless other special culinary delights The Beach House will have on the menu.

The events are vibrant, creatively planned and the food presentation is impeccable. The entertainment is provocative and memorable.

Place your order, enjoy the live cooking stations and let the friendly, attentive staff ensure that your dining and sensory experience is more than you could have ever imagined.

Don’t despair if you cannot make one of the upcoming themed nights. Two or three a month is about the norm. You can always enjoy a lunch or dinner at The Beach House which highlights surf & turf variations as its culinary signature.

Even on an ordinary day (though there really is nothing ordinary about The Beach House) it’s just a great laid-back setting. You can opt to sit indoors in the simply-styled yet chic dining room, sit on the terrace or take off your shoes and eat with your feet in the sand. Wherever you choose, you’ll see and hear the waves and feel the sea breeze on your face.

Swiss Chef Adrian Hauenstein has worldwide experience, and is at the helm to ensure your culinary satisfaction. You can savour a variety of

treats from the impressive à la carte menu while enjoying the magical seascape vista of nearby Koh Pha-Ngan. There’s a range of fare from delectable shared platters, imported meats, locally-caught seafood to a medley of unbeatable dishes for vegetarians. There are traditional favourites and few surprising, creative twists. The crab cake with sweetcorn appears as an entire crab served up with legs, claws and all, but you’ll be surprised to see that it’s composed entirely of crab meat that’s been cleverly presented to resemble the original crab. And if you’re a film buff, you should definitely not miss out on Adrian’s ‘Pixar-Style Inspired Ratatouille’. It definitely lives up to the film that inspired it.

The Beach House effortlessly blends haute dining experiences with stunningly memorable events. It is a destination for one-off evenings that is definitely worth a detour.

Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 5031. www.santiburisamui.com www.facebook.com/thebeachhousesantiburi

Located in the beautiful Fisherman’s Village on Bophut Beach.

Our experienced chefs proudly present authentic Thai cuisine and Southern Thai dishes. Fresh seafood is a must with great quality at reasonable prices.

Enjoy the tranquility of the beach, the twinkling stars and the whispering waves along with the beautiful music. A superb dining experience and great memories.

Fisherman’s Village l

Tel. 077 902 888, 077 430 030 l www.kruabophut.com l Free Parking available at the Wharf!! www.siamwininganddining.com 5

Spice Alert!

How to get just the right amount of chilli in Thai restaurants.

Usually at the kitchen table, the complaint is that things need to be spiced up. The dinner is too bland! Something's missing! Here in Thailand it's just the opposite. Nothing's missing, but there’s definitely too much of something else – chilli!

Many people who come to Thailand are attracted by the thought of the cuisine here. After all, it's ranked amongst the world's finest. But as keen as some are to try it, they draw back because of one factor: the fieriness. The good news is the Thai chefs can and will tone down the spiciness of dishes to suit their guests from abroad.

The obvious way that they do this is to reduce the number of chillies that they use. Since most Thai food is made from scratch, and is prepared only when the order is taken, this is quite easy to do.

But is Thai food without chillies (or even so many) even Thai at all? It most certainly is. Food historians point out that the chilli isn’t even native to Thailand. Blame Christopher Columbus, who started so much ferrying of foodstuffs across the

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globe in the 16th century. Chillies went down into many a ships’ hold and made their way eastwards, gathering brand new admirers wherever they were incorporated into local diets. Black peppercorns were the original source of fire in Thai food, long before chillies made their appearance. Today peppercorns are still a big part of various marinades for grilled chicken and beef. But hey're definitely not as spicy as their newer post-Columbus counterparts.

Although nobody worries about culinary history when they sit down to a delicious meal, chillies are always singled out as the chief culprit when coughing, spluttering and excess sweating starts up over a fiery meal. Some restaurants therefore automatically adjust the spice level as soon as they receive an order from a western guest. At others a slightly different tack is taken. “We always ask guests how spicy they want the dish,” says Khun Jeab, who runs a small restaurant in Maenam.

“Some people can eat food that is really hot. For them it's no problem at all. You can never be sure so it's best to always ask.”

These ideas are echoed pretty much everywhere on Samui. The island’s chefs take pride in making sure their guests receive maximum satisfaction; the restaurants here are more personal. All you have to do is state your preferences. The same goes for ginger or any other spices.

Other chefs throw in more lime juice or add a bit more vinegar. Where curry sauces are used, the creaminess is often given a boost by adding more coconut milk. The milk is made by rinsing the oils out of coconut flesh with warm water.

Canned coconut milk is an easy way to tone down spiciness, and at times it’s the only way forward. That’s because curry pastes are pre-made, so the chillies are already mixed in and impossible to remove.

Though Thai cuisine is amazingly complex, all chefs focus on one time-honoured guideline: the dish should be a balance of sour, sweet, bitter and salty. Its sheer fieriness doesn’t appear in the equation; it’s second to other considerations. This

is good news, as it means dishes don’t need to burn the back of the throat to be authentic – and they never have.

With pad Thai it’s up to you if you want it fiery.

If you do, you have to add flakes of dried chilli to it by yourself.

So it’s always a good idea to make your preferences known so the chef can adapt. But what to do if your meal is already on the table?

In Thailand, sugar is on the table along with fish oil, chilli oil, and dried chilli. Thais will add sugar to a dish to temper the spiciness. They'll also munch on rice to take away the sting of their food.

Eating Thai doesn’t need to be done with caution. It’s a wondrous cuisine, and just because you don’t want to endure the heat of chillies, doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t eat it. To paraphrase an old saying: if you can’t stand the heat, speak to the kitchen. That’s definitely one solution, and another is to enjoy one of the numerous dishes that all Thai kitchens make that are traditionally low on fiery spices; Thai cuisine is so varied that there's always something that’ll take your fancy.

Plenty of Thai flavours originate other less punishing ingredients: Thai basil has a delicious anise flavour, and is pleasantly sweet, while galangal, lemongrass, mint and coriander are also part and parcel of Thai cuisine, and figure just as much in cooking as chillies.

And of course, some dishes are as unspicy as any back home in the west. One of Thailand’s most famed dishes is pad Thai – just look at how many restaurants world-wide are named after it.

Dimitri Waring

www.siamwininganddining.com 7

Thai Recipe Lemongrass Salad - Yam Takhrai.

Ask almost anyone from the west to define what a salad is and they’ll come up with a list of raw vegetables, usually featuring lettuce and finally some sort of dressing to make everything tasty.

It’s a staple that many of us have grown up with, and which many of us feel we should eat for health reasons. Rarely cited as a favourite dish by anyone, a salad is usually an accompaniment to a main course; salad, at least in the west, seems to be forever doomed to playing second fiddle.

However, in Thailand, a salad is a very different proposition. It may not even faintly resemble its western counterpart, with looks and flavours that are worlds apart. Raw food aficionados may well even feel a bit let down, as many Thai salads get their main tastes from cooked ingredients. Perhaps there should even be a different, less misleading word to describe these

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dishes – are they really salads at all? But it’s too late for that; Thai cuisine is famed throughout the world, and already all names are set in culinary stone, and the word ‘salad’ is used to describe food that’s made in four different ways.

‘Yam’ is one of them. Not to be confused with the vegetable of the same name, ‘yam’ simply means ‘mixed’. This month’s recipe features a mix using ‘takhrai’ or lemongrass. Yam however can be made with a huge variety of ingredients, and many different combinations of protein, vegetables, fruits, herbs and spices can be used.

The main ingredient or ingredients can be raw, fermented, sun-dried, smoked, steamed, boiled, grilled, baked or fried. A basic yam recipe also tends to rely on sliced fresh shallots or onions, fish sauce, lime juice, sugar and chillies.

The salad that follows is quite easy to make, but it may take several attempts before you get it to

your liking. This is because it’s an art to balance the different flavours. So above all, don’t be afraid to taste as you go, and to keep on tasting.

The recipe calls for lots of lemongrass, but you can use less if you want to. Or even more. It’s surprising how many people cook Thai food without ever using lemongrass. It’s easy to prepare and adds quite a bit of pizzazz to whatever you're making. And as a bonus, it’s incredibly good for you.

Ingredients: • • • • • • •

12 stalks of lemongrass 2 tsp lime juice 8 prawns, shelled and deveined 5 tbsp of finely sliced shallots ½ cup of fried cashew nuts ½ cup of dried shrimps ¼ cup of mint leaves

• • • • •

Ingredients: for the dressing: ¼ cup of lime juice 2 ½ tbsp fish sauce 1 tbsp sugar syrup 6 bird’s eyes chillies, finely sliced

Next, turn your attention to the dressing.

Combine the lime juice, fish sauce and sugar syrup. Then stir in the chillies. The most important step is to adjust the taste according to your own likes. Aim to balance spiciness, sweetness, saltiness and sourness.

Method: Wash the lemongrass then cut off the bottom half centimetre and peel away the fibrous outer layers. Use only the lower third of the stems, which you should thinly slice and then toss with the lime juice.

Boil a large pot of water and then blanch the prawns – they should be just cooked. Drain them carefully until all the water is gone and set aside to cool.

Lastly, in a mixing bowl, combine the lemongrass, prawns and shallots. Add the dressing and toss well. Fold in the cashew nuts, dried shrimps and the mint leaves. The salad is now ready to serve. Accompany with lettuce or place on a bed of red cabbage and let your guests enjoy the salad either as a side or a light, summery main dish.

Dimitri Waring

Subl i m e Sanctuary The Beach Club at Buri Rasa Village, Samui, offers wonderful food in romantic surrounds.

The approach to this relaxed and highly professional restaurant is, to say the least, unexpected. Step straight out of the hubbub of central Chaweng, enter an amazing oasis of tranquillity, then take a scenic stroll through the ‘village’ itself, past the villas that lead down towards the sea. Finally, you'll come to an old-fashioned set of doors, the colour of verdigris, which opens out onto the restaurant, The Beach Club.

It’s an open-sided dining room, which looks out onto a beautiful lawn with frangipani trees, and the sea itself. The restaurant is completed by a beach bar, which serves both traditional and creative cocktails. Guests can opt for the dining room, a small terrace by the sea, or perhaps best of all, gazebo-style tables on the beach, each a private world of its own. Calm reigns. People love it.

It has to be said that the words, ‘beach club’ tend to evoke some busy, on-going pool-party with stomping music. But here it’s the very opposite kind of affair; it’s laid-back, restful and very romantic. And no crowds at all, revving it up.

There’s a single evening, Tuesdays, when an excellent seafood buffet with live cooking takes place on the beach front, but no more than this.

Buri Rasa doesn’t belong to a big, anonymous hotel chain, but to a very niche group known as Rasa Hospitality. They run selected resorts, with Buri Rasa Village, Phangan, being the next closest. The teams who run the properties are of crucial importance, and are a big part of the reason why guests love returning to stay and to eat at them.

Buri Rasa Village, Samui, has just taken on a brand new manager, David White, who has long been involved with making sure that guests’ needs and wishes are met. You're quite likely to meet him, as he’s very much the hands-on kind of manager, who personally sees that everything is running smoothly. He’s an approachable figure – as all the staff are. The welcoming spirit of both the resort and the restaurant means that everyone is treated as part of a family.

Asked what his plans are for the dining here, David says he has just implemented a new menu, with some delicious choices, whilst making sure that favourites remain. There's both a lunch and dinner menu; lunch is lighter, offering a range of popular dishes, whilst dinner tends to offer both traditional and more creative variations. For dinner, try the Smoked Salmon Roulade – the salmon has been smoked for 24 hours, and comes with lemon mascarpone, marinated fennel,

capers and salad. That’s just one of the starters; the mains are equally sumptuous, with fish dishes such as a char-grilled tuna steak with Mediterranean style vegetable caponata; tikka-spiced salmon fillet or, for meats, Australian spring lamb with white bean hummus, or fillet mignon, a prime tenderloin served with baby spinach, caramelized shallots, potato mash and a port wine jus. The Thai side offers equally sumptuous fare with, for example, a beautifully nuanced tom yung goong, a whole white snapper steamed with lemongrass or red curried duck.

David used to be a food critic, and as such has an eagle eye when it comes to presentation and taste. But as a hotelier, he also has to also think about finding exactly the right ingredients, ensuring that they're fresh and of top quality and also getting the feedback of his guests. Then there’s the service - the staff and the whole social side that’s part of any resort where people spend their holidays. He has a background in hotels that stands him in good stead here; he knows how to fine-tune the on-going process of a resort, and improve it across the board.

Everything about dining at Buri Rasa spells professionalism. You'll be pleased by the presentation, which is elegance itself; each dish seems to have been deeply considered not only

for how it’s made or what goes into it, but also how it looks on the plate. At lunch, classic fish and chips, for example, arrives in a Thai-style fish steamer, rather than on the usual boring white plate, while a trio of tod man pla comes to the table skewered with stalks of lemon grass so you can eat them with your hands. Small grace notes like these – there are plenty of others – are indicative of the general approach here at Buri Rasa Village, Samui.

The menu sets high expectations that are met by the extensive dishes, and consists of both Thai and international fare. The best of two very separate worlds, therefore, but each is rendered with consummate expertise. Everything’s good, in other words.

Menu highlights include the long-established seafood basket, designed for sharing between two people. They offer three different versions – each has more dishes than the one before. The baskets include grilled items such as lobster, sea bass, salmon, oysters and crab, along with stir-fried or steamed fish. It’s a copious amount of food, all of it delicious. Seafood baskets start at 3,200 baht, with the granddaddy of them all at 3,900 baht per couple. A bottle of wine comes with each basket, ideally paired, of course. (A similar option without the wine also exists.)

An added bonus of ordering the seafood basket is you dine in a private sala, on the beach, under the stars – a truly romantic setting. Salas are limited, so it is a good idea to make a booking and request the seafood basket.

The restaurant also offers private fine dining, and can cater for parties and gatherings for up to 60 people – plated dinners or buffets. Incidentally, many different kinds of weddings are held here, right on the beach.

The Beach Club with its oasis feel, great selection of affordable delights and helpful staff leaves a deep, favourable impression on diners who come here. Hardly surprising that so many guests like to return here for the food and drink, while the setting, quiet and laid-back, soon begins to work a soothing magic all of its own.

Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7795 6055. www.burirasa.com

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Local Flavour, Global Impact Poppies Samui connects the past with the future and always wows its diners.

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Poppies promises a lot more than a relaxing stay in its deluxe cottages; guests can do more than unwind in some of the lushest gardens on Samui (think huge old trees, buckets of foliage and a stream that splashes through all of it). It’s also home to the island’s original luxury international restaurant, and the food here remains absolutely top-notch. Even if both restaurant and resort have been operating for almost a quarter of a century – history by Samui’s standards – that doesn’t mean to say that Poppies Samui has become a stuffy institution. On the contrary, the vibe here, though decidedly elegant, is also cutting edge.

Poppies succeeds in presenting both heritage Thai food and an international menu at one and the same time. The entire concept of the restaurant is all about professionalism.

Word-of-mouth was once all that the resort had in the way of advertising, but people quickly heard about it, liked what they saw and passed on the message. They're still doing that – when they're not actually returning to sample Poppies all over again.

Even with today’s fierce competition, Poppies is still wowing its guests, and manages to do this with some original approaches (some are literal, as we will shortly see) and by looking ahead to the future. All this translates as: there’s nothing quite like Poppies, anywhere on the island.

For a start, the approach to the restaurant is unique. Guests can get there through a secret door, camouflaged by a faux bookcase, which swings back to reveal an enigmatic tunnel that meanders away into the distance. It’s actually a service passageway by day, but is definitely a great way to arrive at the restaurant in the evening, all the more so as the chef interrupts your journey with an amuse-bouche.

If all this sounds too melodramatic, there's no need to worry, as you can also walk through the garden; it’s equally wondrous. Follow a meandering path as it leads over a wooden bridge, pause to admire fat koi carp lazily swimming underneath, and continue through sumptuous tropical foliage to the restaurant.

Dine in an authentic teak pavilion or a smaller

one a little closer to the sea. If that’s not close enough, there’s a sandy terrace that overlooks the beach or you can dine right on the sands.

For the latter, kick off your shoes – it really is a relaxed experience. Whatever your choice, you’re guaranteed a wonderful time. Your amuse-bouche now comes, as does Poppies’ beautifully put together menu.

You can enjoy Thai dishes that are cooked in authentic ways, with meat and fish a-plenty, curries and stir-fries – everything you could possibly expect from a high-calibre restaurant. A wealth of herbs and spices makes all these dishes wonderfully aromatic – Poppies has always been known for its superb tastes.

There are also some surprises; an opulent choice at Poppies is their Kantoke, a Thai traditional shared meal which is brought to you on a circular rattan tray. Here it’s great for couples or friends; the tray holds four exquisite main courses along with rice, either brown or white, and is followed by dessert. Poppies offers four

different options: Four Regions, Vegetarian, Royal Thai or Seafood.

Thanks to there being both a Thai chef and an international chef, there truly is something for everyone, even the most jaded of appetites. Star quality abounds in the international menu, too, with a plethora of steaks, seafood and vegetarian dishes, all guaranteed to be every bit as tasty as the Thai side.

The service at Poppies is both attentive and courteous, with staff very welcoming. Many of them have been here for years, and all are expert at bringing guests total satisfaction. Their attentiveness includes some small but pleasing notes, such as offering all guests cold towels and, after their meal, a complimentary glass of Kahlúa.

Poppies may have been the first restaurant of its kind on the island, but it doesn’t just pride itself on its historic role; if it was a leader back then, it still is today. The management here look

towards the future, and are taking steps to make sure it’s supportive of ecological concerns. This January, Poppies became the island’s first resort to replace the small non-biodegradable plastic bottles of drinking water with metal ones. Buy one and refill for free at designated spots on the island. Other resorts will soon be joining this new trend, and hopefully it’ll soon put an end to one of the island’s main sources of waste.

Both forward-thinking and traditional at the same time, Poppies is still a highlight for holidaymakers when it comes to marvellous food and drink. As a prized gem, the restaurant, along with the resort, entirely deserves its accolade for excellence.

Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 2419. www.poppiessamui.com

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Brunch Bonanza A selection of Samui’s must try brunches.

Make your weekend even better by indulging in a spectacular addition to the island’s gastronomic treats – brunches. Samui excels in them. Select from menus featuring all-time brunch favourites along with modern takes on traditional dishes.

Everything is made using ingredients fresh from the sea and local markets, with meats that are invariably brought in from prime locations – think New Zealand lamb, best-grade Australian beef.

If you're used to brunching in urban locations, then you're in for a further treat. Samui’s brunches are set in some amazingly idyllic locations, no more than a stone’s throw from the beach. Feasting outdoors on decking or a terrace (naturally there’s plenty of shade in the form of canopies) or in some of the island’s most sumptuous dining rooms, these settings are as luxurious as they are relaxed.

For drink there may be bubbles, wine, cocktails and all manner of soft drinks. Very often there are different price tiers, depending on what you would like in the way of beverages. Children are invariably welcome and enjoy the food and

atmosphere as much as adults do. Typical brunch times tend to be between midday and 3:00 pm, though you're welcome to linger after that.

Without further ado, we showcase some of the best of Samui’s brunches. These are just some examples – there are more venues still, offering wonderful cuisine. Expect to be wowed. Ensure you come as hungry as possible – don’t even think about nibbling beforehand – as brunches have so many dishes and possibilities that you definitely won’t be able to try everything. Not unless you can limit yourself to a teaspoon of each dish. And you won’t be able to – the food is way too tempting for that.

Beach Republic Step down from decking onto the sands at Beach Republic and enjoy a swim in the sea – but you probably won’t want to: instead you'll be smitten by the line-up at their Sunday brunch.

The daily breakfast here is already lavish enough, but for the brunch they go still further and feature Fine de Claire oysters, Scottish

salmon and roasts of different kinds, including beef, lamb and turkey. You'll also find a barbecue station, sushi and a variety of cold meats and cheeses. The brunch covers both international and Thai choices. Desserts are sinfully eclectic with sundaes, crème brûlée and more. Naturally, there’s a full selection of drinks to go with the food.

Coast Beach Club & Bistro at Centara Grand With its wonderful seaside location in one of Samui’s longest-running resorts, many foreign residents head for Coast on a Sunday to enjoy the fare that includes just about everything that you might want to eat for either lunch or breakfast. Try truffle scrambled eggs on brioche, smoked salmon with eggs or any of the cheeses, hams and sausages that Coast specializes in.

You'll find excellent mains with fish and meats galore. Some amazing drinks accompany all the food, and you may want to forego an excellent coffee for Ketel One vodka Bloody Marys along with condiments, or even a half bottle of Veuve Cliquot. Decadent desserts such as tiramisu, rum babas and profiteroles await.

RockPool at Kanda Residences This favourite restaurant overlooks a dramatic, rocky coastline - hence the name. The Sunday brunch here is influenced by Mediterranean and Italian themes. Enjoy oysters flown in from France, and take advantage of the cooking stations for pasta, eggs, and salads. Expect favourites such as spaghetti carbonara or Caesar salad depending on what’s best and freshest.

You'll see various cold cuts and grilled vegetables on display, along with sushi, complete with wasabi, pickled ginger and sauce.

Shot glasses round off brunch, and are filled with mixes of fruit, fondant chocolate and cream and there are usually tartlets. For drinks there’s a full range includes local beers, sparkling wine, red and white wine from Australia, and tea and coffee. You can also find sake ice tea and RockPool’s very own Mai Tai.

terrace or in the contemporary-style dining room. Presentation is excellent, and so are the tastes. With live cooking stations, salads a-plenty, cold cuts, cheeses and a delectable array of mains, nibbles and desserts, the massive brunch is completed by a cocktail trolley that stops by each table. Simply place your order and your cocktail will soon be with you. There's also a full range of other beverages.

Amazing food and beautiful tropical settings make Samui a wonderful place to come and have brunch. Whether you come as a couple, a family or group of friends, great times are made of occasions like this. We suggest you check out the restaurant’s websites or Facebook pages for up to the minute details. But whatever, it’s guaranteed that brunches such as the ones above will tick all the boxes when it comes to great tastes and top quality ingredients, all in a laid-back island atmosphere.

The Kitchen Table at W Koh Samui Definitely luxurious, the W Bold Brunch (first Saturday of the month only) is packed with Thai and international treats. Eat outside on the

Dimitri Waring

Fine Beachside Dining with Spectacular Sunsets

THE SIAM RESIDENCE B o u t i q u e

R e s o r t

Thai & International cuisine in Lipa Noi / Koh Samui Phone: +66 (0) 77 420 008 | samui@siamresidence.com | www.siamresidence.com

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Superbly Supattra

If you think you enjoy Thai food, just wait until you’ve paid a visit to Supattra Thai Dining!

Did you realise that there’s actually no such thing as ‘Thai cuisine’? Certainly there are typical Thai ingredients. But how they’re used to make a dish is a different matter. The Thai food you’ll get in Boston will taste completely different to that which you’ll get in Birmingham, and not at all the same as you’ll find on the Samui coast, here in Bangrak. Every city makes Thai food the way their people want it. And every chef has a different approach. Which brings me right away to Supattra Thai Dining.

This is the name of the restaurant run by Khun Supattra, (interestingly enough, on the edge of Bangrak Beach) just a little way away from Big Buddha. It’s a Thai restaurant, serving only Thai dishes, with no attempt to include fries or burgers to keep the kids happy – although it has to be said that when youngsters get a taste of what Khun Supattra is offering, they’ve been known to squeak with delight.

But I think, to explain more fully, we also need to look closely at the sorts of ‘Thai’ food you’ll get in Thailand. Look at where the Thai people themselves go to eat – the big food courts and markets. The food is basic, the ingredients cut-price; the cheapest cuts of chicken, pork and beef. Everything’s full of MSG and sugar, and slathered in fish sauce and ground chillies. This is not the fare you’ll find in the resorts!

But take the same basic ingredients and play around with them; try different combinations and mixes, use prime corn-fed chicken, tender beef and the freshest of seafood. Experiment for several years with the sauces and curry pastes, blending and making your own, refining them until the flavour and the aftertaste approach a

gourmet level of achievement. Balancing harmonies of flavours and contrasts of textures with just the right amount of piquancy from the heat of the chillies. You’ll end up with Thai cuisine, not Thai cooking. And, after 20 years of eating Thai food all around the world, I can say the food at Supattra Thai Dining is simply superb – it’s the way that Thai food was always meant to taste.

Even the menu is thoughtful and considered.

Probably one of the few Thai menus I can say that’s actually been crafted! Firstly, it’s not a menu in the sense of a small book; it’s a large movable chalkboard. Dishes on offer change according to the seasons (plus there’s also a bit of what happens to take Supattra’s fancy, just for a change!). It’s sectioned into ‘nibbles’ (Thai cuisine doesn’t have ‘starters’ or ‘mains’) and featured dishes of meat, fish and then desserts.

And second, it’s a work of art too, because it is beautifully and microscopically hand written.

This is where Thomas (Supattra’s partner in both senses of the word) comes into play. He’s an unforgettably friendly man, and the most genial of hosts. After settling you with a pre-dinner drink (they have a first-rate selection of both Classic and New World wines – Thomas is a connoisseur and buys them in especially), he’ll bring the menu-board across to you and spend a full ten minutes going over each dish (in English or German) describing it and explaining the flavour and nuances and asking about the degree of spiciness you prefer, prior to taking your order. Even though Thomas isn’t working in the kitchen, it’s just like having your own personal chef, as he somehow manages to convey your preferences with almost psychic precision.

I’m always pleasantly pleased to watch another couple of diners as they take their first mouthful – the expression on their faces is beyond words, and usually brings them to a complete halt for a moment. If you say the words ‘Thai food’, then you’ll get a taste-impression based on your experience of Thai food. But, believe me; the tastebud experience here is nothing like, absolutely nowhere near anything you’ve ever known before!

Take the ‘Barracuda fillets with Penang Curry Sauce’, for instance. Supattra takes the time and effort to cook the fish separately from the sauce (usually it’s all mixed in together) and this means you can taste all of the ingredients, both individually and together in harmony. And then she carefully and exactly makes her own curry sauces – this is the heart of any curry dish. She gets her curry paste from only one person; it’s specially made for her and tastes like no other.

It’s rich and creamy and tantalising, and plays perfectly against the thick and firmly-succulent barracuda and the diced, crisp, Thai vegetables.

There must be a thousand different places on Samui which serve Thai food. But after 20 years of living and eating here, I can state one thing with utter confidence. You’ll struggle to find Thai food – anywhere in the world – that is as good as here at Supattra Thai Dining!

Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 932 828 777 or 0 993 637 030. www.facebook.com/SupattraThaiDining

GENUINE NEAPOLITAN PIZZA

ON CHAWENG BEACH, OPPOSITE CENTRAL FESTIVAL

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Cocktail Conundrums Sometimes the strange names are half the fun of cocktails.

Barking Spider, Salty Chihuahua, Blood & Sand, Dr Sinister, Inspector Gadget and Satan’s Whiskers – these demented cocktail names show that mixologists are as busy with words as they are with ingredients. Even Hemingway came up with a cocktail name – Death in the Gulfstream.

No encouragement ever seems needed when it comes to giving a weird name to new concoctions. Why bother with Scrabble and crosswords when cocktail names provide so much fun?

There are some cocktail names that are simply so obscene that most people, even when highly drunk, might not want to order them. In a family-style publication like ours, we dare not even think of mentioning them. You would definitely not ask any bartender if they had them on the menu – he or she might think they were being propositioned. These cocktails probably aren’t going to make any international favourites list anywhere – simply because they require nerves of steel simply to order. Are we talking along the lines of that classic vacation cocktail, Sex on the Beach, born in Florida and which has fuelled almost a half century of mayhem for Spring Break students? No, we are not. The names seem so obscene that they can only herald the downfall of the drink itself – people

are wary enough of embarrassing themselves in bars as it is!

With weird, laughable, offensive and even completely meaningless names, cocktails seem to be in a linguistic, if not alcoholic, class of their own. Some drinks never really make it to the light of day or at least fame; a good many can only be drunk in the bar where they were invented – and should the bar go bankrupt, the cocktail ceases to exist, while others go on to become famous, still carrying their strange name with them. A fishing club in Philadelphia, otherwise obscure, invents Fish House Punch with its peach brandy, cognac and rum; 1920’s Paris comes up with Burnt Fuselage, made of cognac and Grand Marnier, still drunk today; a Toronto hotel puts together martini and crème de cacao and produces a drink that seems just right for wayward children at an illicit moonlight feast – the Chocolate Martini.

The lure of the forbidden, or at least the dangerous, proves too much for many a drinker, and some cocktails sound like their own alcohol-content warning – think Corpse Reviver or A Short Trip to Hell. These are fairly obvious names for potent drinks. Anything that references the afterlife or some bilious half-life, half-death

Maenam Bophut Nathon

Chaweng

Samui

Lamai

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www.drfrogs.com

limbo is good for business. But many more names verge on the disturbing. Here are a few strange-sounding potions that you may want to try. Or not.

Guts are possibly a requirement to order the memorably-named Monkey Gland, which reputedly comes from Harry’s New York Bar, where the far more famous Bloody Mary was invented and first drunk. It was a surgeon who was behind this new simian-themed drink – monkey glands were all part of his surgical experiments. Or how about Gorilla Milk, flavoured with both banana cream and light cream? A summery drink indeed, though with an unpleasant lingering image.

A leitmotiv in the world of cocktails seems to be an obsession with anatomy and the underbellies of cities. Cocktails that seem to channel this are Vile Bile with Blood Clots, a Halloween delight with deep reds and blacks, and the fruity gin-laden Sewer Water, enhanced with pineapple liqueur, but with an off-putting muddy brown colour. Then there’s the more rural but no less disquieting Swamp Gas, which actually smells fairly nice, it being comprised of blue Curacao with melon liqueur, and not a soupçon of methane and rotting vegetation.

Many a cocktail is named after one or other of its ingredients, although you might not see the connection at first. Take the fine example of James the Evil Leprechaun. The cocktail consists of four Irish whiskeys mixed together and yes, Jameson is traditionally one of them, hence the name of the drink. The ‘evil’ part becomes more obvious the more you drink of the cocktail. Some people, given their delirium tremens, claim to have seen James manifest himself at their hospital bed.

If you're tired of ordering such alarming-sounding drinks, you might want to opt for the more down to earth Pencil Eraser, its fruit flavours echoing the insipid pinks last seen in, yes, school erasers, or the manly, no-nonsense Mustache, a gin, bourbon and lemon concoction, invented by a New York chef after being told his vodka tonic was ‘too girly’.

There are cocktails that defy explanation.

Nobody knows for example the origins of Goat's Delight. It’s a mystery how this pre-prohibition drink got its name, but it’s sure that no goat has ever lapped it up – goats will eat your tablecloth but just don’t enjoy the complexities of cocktails.

Mostly there’s some explanation if you look hard and deep enough, but you need to remember

that the mixologist’s world is not as straightforward as shaking up drinks. Things get giddy, especially if you actually have to drink what you've made.

Speaking of etymology, even the word ‘cocktail’ itself remains a mystery. Some believe the word comes from an old word for tap, ‘cock’ and ‘tailings’, which were the dregs of barrels of spirits. Sold cheaper, tavern keepers would be asked for ‘cock tailings’ – and they’d draw some nasty potions at discount for their eager patrons.

However, over in New Orleans, an apothecary famed for his bitters would serve a mixed brandy drink in a French eggcup, known as a ‘coquetier’. Eventually it got anglicized to ‘cocktail’.

Which explanation is correct? Who knows or cares? In the surrealistic world of cocktails, late-night wordsmiths are more concerned with coming up with new names for new drinks. It would appear that the drinks come first and are then given names, but given the sheer joy of penning outlandish descriptions, it might well be the other way round at times.

Dimitri Waring

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Chop Chop Chop The use of chopsticks is something of a puzzle – just exactly why do so many Asian people use them?

Stone-age men used pointed sticks to eat their food. It wasn’t until the time of the early Egyptians that spoons began to appear; made of wood, bone, ivory or gold, as utensils made of ordinary metals tarnished or rusted. And, by the time of the Roman Empire – say about 3,000 years ago, eating-utensils consisted of a metal knife to cut your food and to spear the lumps up into your mouth, and a spoon for smaller bits and liquids like soup. And as the Romans expanded their empire, so other nations benefitted from their culture and habits.

Meanwhile, in the mountains of northern China and in the rest of Asia, people were still sticking pointed sticks into their food. For some strange reason, this part of the world had never given spoons or forks the thumbs up. The cultural subtlety of tableware, knives and forks and spoons, never spread out of the Western world into Asia.

Well, not until the 17th century that is, and The Age of Discovery, when all of Europe hopped into little sailing ships and realised they wouldn’t

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drop off the edge of the world, after all. But by the time they got to China and Japan, Korea, too, they discovered that those pointed sticks had already evolved into a long-established culinary art form. They were now being made out of slender, tapered wood or ivory and being called chopsticks – well, that was the common name given to them by explorers.

This is a very hard thing to understand, if you ponder on it for a while. What is more naturally instinctive, using a little bowl with a handle (i.e. a spoon) to scoop up small pieces of food, or having to spend years training yourself to do the same thing with two small, thin, pieces of wood?

I mean, the Chinese farmers are out in the fields all day using shovels. Shovels – spoons. Do you ever see them trying to scoop up compost or plough a couple of acres using pool cues?

For a hint of an explanation for this bizarre cultural meme, we have to look to the venerable Chinese philosopher and politician, Confucius. “. . . the honourable man keepeth well away from the kitchen, and he alloweth no knives

upon his table.” And for over 300 years, Confucianism was the official ideology of China.

Which meant that as no knives were allowed at the table, and the idea of spoons or forks had yet to arrive from the West, using sticks to eat their food became a firmly established way of life for the Chinese.

Most certainly it wasn’t just the Chinese who adopted such behaviour. Over time, due to either migration or colonisation, the use of chopsticks spread southwards into India, Burma, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, the Philippines and parts of Indonesia – the Chinese of that time were inveterate traders and not infrequently plain, simple pirates. And their influence, and aspects of their culture, is still seen in the countries that they visited and often settled in.

But the rampant colonialism of the 18th and 19th centuries stamped out a lot of this influence. The British, for example, were in India for almost 200 years, and invaded and colonised Burma and Malaya, too. The Spanish swallowed up the Philippines. And the French got their hooks into

Vietnam and Cambodia. And in these nations, over time, the ease of use of a knife, fork and spoon came to replace fiddling about with little sticks when you were hungry. But as for China, Japan, Korea and Taiwan, well, they were never invaded by Europeans. And so, to this day, each of these nations still use the traditional chopsticks that their ancestors have favoured for the last 2,000 years or more – it’s that strongly culturally ingrained.

Except that, today, there’s now quite a lot of international concern about this. Quite simply, it’s a huge waste of resources. With 1.4 billion people ploughing through 80 billion pairs of throwaway chopsticks yearly, China has been cutting down 20 million mature trees every year to fuel its disposable chopstick habit – only 4,000 chopsticks can be made from one tree. And now China has run out of suitable wood, and has gone on to become the world's largest importer of wood, and even imports chopsticks in bulk from America.

But, to finish, let’s put some of you straight about Thailand and chopsticks. Many first-time visitors to this country are puzzled when they notice that there are no chopsticks on the tables over here.

In their Thai restaurants, back home where they come from, chopsticks are used. Why not over here?

The answer is simple. In the words of one New York restaurateur, "It’s what people expect. Thai people normally use a spoon and a fork; they only use chopsticks when eating noodles, due to their Chinese origins. But if we don’t lay out chopsticks for our diners, they think we’re somehow not authentic and go elsewhere."

So putting chopsticks on the tables of Thai restaurants abroad has now become normal. If you can’t beat them, join them, particularly when it comes to chopsticks!

Rob De Wet

Breakfast with the Gods A surprise awaits you at Santiburi Samui Country Club!

Samui is an interesting place. There’s lots of new development, but it’s still mostly rustic. And there’s no hi-rise construction – that’s because we’re basically a small mountain with a flat bit around the edge. That means that nearly all the restaurants we talk about have great sea views.

But, no matter how you look at it, a view of the sea is . . . a view of the sea. With one exception maybe – Santiburi Samui Country Club.

Ah but yes, you may say, what about all those fabulous viewpoints up the mountain? Most of them do food! To which we’ll reply, sure! But it’s pretty basic grub: and just you try to explain to someone how to get to one of these! It’s all fine and dandy having smart phones and Google Maps, but just you try it: you’ll spend half the time turning round and going back again because your little blue dot is suddenly going in the opposite direction. Again. For the fifth time!

But Santiburi is a different matter entirely. This is one place where you don’t even need a map; although it helps if you can navigate your way to Maenam, on the island’s north coast. Soi (street) 7 is the last of Maenam’s side-roads that head away from the sea, and it’s the last one you’ll see (heading towards Nathon) before the landmark of the sharp bend with the arch and the signpost for Lomprayah Ferry. Soi 7 is where the big Thai food market sits on the corner – along with a signpost for Santiburi Samui Country Club.

And then just follow the signs. (Essentially it’s simply the first right and then the next right after that.) You’ll slowly and effortlessly find that you’re gradually climbing in a series of long sweeping bends; it’s so easy that a motorbike carrying two people will not even notice it. And

you, yourself, won’t even realise just how high you have climbed in the five minutes before you find yourself on the last flat towards your destination – until you glimpse the land and the far-away sea beneath you – it’ll make you gasp!

From here you will see almost the entire sweep of Maenam Bay, and if your camera doesn’t have a panorama option, there’s no way you can capture just how breath-taking this amazing view is.

And right away let me say that ‘country club’ conveys quite the wrong impression. The only real ‘club’ you’ll see is one in a golf bag because, as well as this little-known but breath-taking restaurant, this is also the only professional 18-hole tournament golf course on Samui. The club here is actually the clubhouse, you won’t see elderly ladies wearing pearls and dancing to an orchestra, and you don’t need to wear a tie and have membership to go into the restaurant.

And now the best part of all. The club opens at 6:00 am. And that either means just before the sun comes up, or just after, depending on the time of year. This month it’ll be just as the sun comes up over the horizon, revealing an entire universe of blazing gold and pink clouds above, and an infinity of misty grey-green pockets dappled on the descending mountainside below – punctuated by neat and velvety green patches of a startling hue. This is the time that the clubhouse opens, but the restaurant is a bit sleepy at this hour, allowing you lots of time to take your photos before ordering breakfast.

The breakfasts are pretty good. There’s a Euro-style set breakfast and an ‘American’ option, but don’t expect Cumberland pork sausages and Danish smoked bacon with blood pudding and

fried bread. There’s also a ‘Thai Breakfast’, but as Thai’s don’t actually have a traditional breakfast, expect fried rice and a choice of tea, coffee or juice. But the best bit is the ‘à la carte’ DIY breakfast option, which fills a whole page of the menu. Mix and match eggs (cooked five different ways) with choices of bacon, sausages, tomatoes, onions, mushrooms, toast (etc., etc.), tea coffee, juices or smoothies.

The restaurant is open all day, so it’s quite in order to stop in if you’re on the way back from an excursion or trip. There’s the expected menu of Thai food. Then there are light-bites, sandwiches and burgers. Plus a more-substantial set of offerings which include fish and chips, pasta dishes and even a German hock of lamb.

The coffee is the real deal – fresh-ground. And there’s even Mövenpick ice-cream, too – by the scoop or the tub. Plus the fact that you can also catch the sunset sky at the end of the day – and avail yourself of the draft Singha beer pitchers at only 150 baht a time.

This isn’t a restaurant which is going to boast a Michelin-starred chef, and it doesn’t pretend to be, unlike some. But it is a place that’s easy to find, and has one of the best views on all of Samui – people gasp when they walk in. And it’s one of the few places where you can either eat breakfast or share a pitcher of beer, right up there in the sky, with the gods!

Rob De Wet For further information, telephone 0 7742 1700-8. www.santiburi.com

Beachside Dining at its Best

餐厅-歡迎中國貴賓

Romantic Dinner I Seafood Basket with Lobster For reservations, please call 077 956 055 www.siamwininganddining.com 17

Inf laming the Senses A light-hearted look at the ups and downs of aphrodisiacs over the ages.

Don’t let’s be coy here: this is the age of honesty and straight-speaking. And it’s no longer taboo to talk about sex – even in a magazine that’s all about food. Anyway, when it comes to things like love, ecstasy and heightened pleasure, there’s probably been just as much written about this in the context of restaurant reviews than in all of those TV reality shows combined.

also highly-prized for its ability to inflame the male senses; hence its inclusion in fragrances such as Chanel ‘Number 5’, Balmain, Givenchy ‘Amarige’, and Gucci ‘Guilty’ etc.. And while there appears to be some chemical reality in this assertion, I’m not even going to approach the realms of powdered unicorn, rhinoceros horns or narwhal tusks!

And so, to get down and dirty, aphrodisiacs come in three forms, and the search for such stimulants go back for millennia. First there are the ones that increase libido in both genders.

Then (a male thing) boosted potency. Finally (the one where everyone benefits) substances which enhance sexual enjoyment. And whereas there most certainly are chemical stimulants, the most popular (and many would say the most effective) aphrodisiac of all is an intimate evening spent wining, dining and wooing!

That kind of thing carries over from a medieval outlook and, other than a charming reminder of years gone by, doesn’t fit with what today’s science tells us. It’s like the mystique surrounding oysters. They are not an aphrodisiac in any way.

But if you try to think back to a bygone age when the glimpse of a female ankle drove men insane with lust, then it becomes conceivable that that passing resemblance of an oyster to the female genitals could well have had a similar effect. (Although quite what oysters are supposed to do for women is harder to speculate about.)

It’s a togetherness thing. Even the preparations – getting ready for the evening together – play a part in the slow build-up to the evening’s climax.

Take something as simple as perfume. Ambergris is a substance vomited out by sperm whales. It’s

One foodie icon which does bear closer scrutiny though, is chocolate. This contains mind-altering chemicals, introducing intriguing questions about its ability to arouse the savage beast (or

beastess). It’s got tryptophan, a ‘neurotransmitter’ that regulates mood and sexual desire. It also has another substance which works at molecular level, phenylethylamine, a stimulant proven to cause feelings of well-being and warm and fuzzy happiness in general. And on top of that, there’s additionally the ‘messenger molecule’, anandaminde, named after the Sanskrit word for bliss, because that's the feeling it promotes. Keep all of this in mind (together with the fact that too much of it also makes you throw-up).

Coffee is another comestible which has evolved within a sphere of hopeful eroticism. Whereas it’s true that anything containing caffeine stimulates the central nervous system, making us more alert and thus possibly more aware, the same also holds true for cocaine and amphetamines, neither of which are aphrodisiacs. And now we’re getting closer to the very hub of it all . . . our mood.

Which is probably a good time to insert the concept of alcohol. This timeless substance has been accused of many things, but everyone agrees on one thing; it lowers inhibitions.

Consumed with gentile restraint, either in the form of holiday cocktails or as part of a sophisticated wine-paired dinner, no other single substance (except chocolate maybe) has stood the test of time when it comes to not only enhancing libido, but also casting caution to the wind. But, as with choco-fun, too much alcohol also makes Jack a very dull boy indeed. But you already knew that, didn’t you?

candle-lit dinner on the beach with your own discreet butler and/or chef. Wine paired (as that way you don’t get distracted by having to think about it). A menu including oysters (go for it!).

Eye-contact, smiles, and occasional leg-touching under the table. Desserts with chocolate. Irish coffee to finish. The stars overhead and the gentle swish of the waves. A taxi booked and waiting to take you back. . .

My points have been postulated and my suppositions aired. Now all that remains is you and your partner on the evening of the 14th of February. One of you (hopefully both, each unknown to the other) will already have fixed a couple of things in advance (restaurant-booking, gifts, flowers). She will shower and use a perfume containing ambergris (not compulsory).

He will do something similar, including whatever it takes to let her know he’s making a special effort (long trousers, shoes not flip-flops, shave etc.)(compulsory). Already the mood is being set.

The greatest aphrodisiac of all is being desired by someone you love. All the rest is by-the-way.

But if you want it to go on forever, keep making the effort. And maybe the thoughts above will help a bit when it’s St Valentine’s Day 2019!

Rob De Wet

A surprise taxi ride in time for the sunset and a couple of gentle cocktails first. Lots of eye-contact and meaningful smiles. Then a

Sabienglae restaurants offer traditional fresh seafood and cuisine in an authentic southern Thai style.

Come and enjoy our unique dishes, many of which you won’t find elsewhere on the island, in a relaxing atmosphere. An experience to truly complete your holiday.

Sabienglae Restaurant

The Wharf Samui, Fishermans’s Village For reservation please call 077 332 651

18 www.siamwininganddining.com

Hin Ta Hin Yai, Samui Ring Road For reservation please call 077 233 082-3

Wimaan Buri Resort, Chaweng Ring Road For reservation please call 077 962 333

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort presents a wide range of restaurants and bars featuring a variety of cuisines to suit all tastes.

Premium cocktails and selected wines are also available in each outlet.

STAR

A stunning rooftop bar where you can sip our signature cocktails and enjoy some snacks while watching the sunset or gazing at the stars above.

Open: 17.00-23.30hrs.

The Height

Sun Deck

Wine and Cigar Lounge

Oering an extensive menu of delightful Thai cuisine, the restaurant has both air-conditioned and open air seating options, all with stunning views of the surrounding sea.

Open: 17.00-22.30hrs.

Exclusive dining on the deck with breathtaking views.Enjoy International delights in a romantic setting with your loved one. Please reserve in advance.

Refreshments, cocktails and snacks with a selection of premium wines and cigars to enjoy the breathtaking view.

Open:18.00-22.30hrs.

Open: 17.00-23.30hrs

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort 208/66 Moo4, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84310 Thailand Tel: (+66) 077 960 555 Fax: (+66) 077 960 055 www. Silavadeeresort.com www.siamwininganddining.com 19

Rice Barge &

Terrace

Fine Beachside Dining at the Rice Barge & Terrace Authentic Thai Cuisine WEEKLY CALENDAR MONDAY Candlelight Set Dinner for 2 persons at Rice Barge Thai Cuisine and The Barge TUESDAY - GRILLED NIGHT Chef Special Thai or Western set menu for 2 persons at Rice Barge and The Barge WEDNESDAY - HAWAIIAN STYLE Hawaiian Seafood Buffet THB 1,290/person Children 6-12 half price (Special price for advance reservations) Entertainment: The Barge Band and Polynesian show.

Free Management Cocktail & Canapes 6-7 pm THURSDAY Thai or Western set menu for 2 persons at Rice Barge Thai Cuisine and The Barge EVERY DAY Thai Cooking Class - Reservation in advance Bartender Master Class - Reservation in advance Happy Hours: Swimming Pool: Hillside 1pm-2pm. Beachside 2pm-3pm Lobby Lounge 6pm-8pm, Rice Barge 6pm-7pm The Barge 6pm-7pm Private Dinner THB 3,500, 7,000, 8,500, 11,000 net Reservation in advance SATURDAY - WEEKEND DAY Rice Barge & Terrace Authentic Thai Cuisine Chef Signature Set Menu THB 3,000 for 2 persons SUNDAY - FAMILY DAY The Barge Western Cuisine & Seafood Chef Signature Set Menu THB 3,000 for 2 persons

Rice Barge & Terrace Nora Buri's Signature Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: ricebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com

Chaweng Beach Road Chaweng North

It’s all happening at Nora Beach Resort & Spa Tuesday Night- Around Asia Night. We invite you to experience a variety of traditional Thai dishes.

Price THB 850 per person. Entertainment: Ponglang & Pink 8 Duo Band.

Thursday Night - Hawaiian Night. Enjoy our chef’s special buffet creations. Price THB 950 net per person. Children 6-12 years old half price. Entertainment: Fire Show & Pink 8 Duo Band.

Thai Cooking Class Learn how to cook 3 authentic Thai dishes with our Thai Chef.

Inclusive of chef hat, apron, certificate and recipe.

Fruit Carving Class Inclusive of chef hat, apron and certificate.

Daily Happy Hours Pool Bar 1.00 pm - 2.00 pm & 4.00 pm - 5.00 pm. Prasuthon Restaurant 6.00 pm - 7.00 pm.

Lobby Bar 7.00 pm - 8.00 pm & 10.00 pm - 11.00 pm.

Romantic Private Dining Dining on the beach with private chef and waiter/waitress.

Set menu THB 4,000 for couple.

Thai menu THB 6,000 per couple.

International menu THB 8,000 per couple.

Advance reservation required

For further information please telephone 0 7742 9400 E-mail: reservation@norabeachresort.com www.norabeachresort.com 20 www.siamwininganddining.com