September – October

General Impressions A striking statue marks Samui’s Chinese past and present.

Breaking Good Compulsive, addictive and

totally fascinating – immerse yourself in Escape Break!

A Warm Welcome

Editor

Graeme Malley graeme@siammap.com

Graphic Designer

Preeda Tuajob - Pui

Photographer

Akaphon Phongninlaarphon - Don

Feature Writer Rob De Wet

Feature Writer Dimitri Waring

Feature Writer Karan Ladd

Webmaster

Seksak Kerdkanno - Klauy

Sales & Marketing Director Nipawan Chuaysagul - Ning 0 898 783 891

ning@siammap.com

Financial Director

Kasper Bjørk kasper@siammap.com

After the European August holidays, when many tourists have returned home to their school and job commitments, Koh Samui is the perfect place to be. The average temperature falls to 28°C and you get the beaches to yourself. Yes, it does get a bit cloudier as you move from September into October, and the chance of rainfall increases, but then who wants sunburn anyhow?

Managing Director Henrik Bjørk henrik@siammap.com

In truth, the weather can be very unpredictable; gorgeous blue skies one minute and then a thunderstorm the next. But the temperature stays pretty constant and a good downpour and stronger breezes can be a relief if you are not used to the heat and humidity of island living.

Cooler temperatures give you an opportunity to pursue more sporty events. Get off the beaten track and go hiking or cycling in the hilly green interior. Seek out those hidden waterfalls and cafes, hire a kayak or stand up paddleboard, hit the gym or take a yoga class. Feeling lazy? Take a Thai cooking course, visit a spa and be pampered or just laze the days away on the beach or by the pool with a good book and a great ocean view.

Quieter October offers more privacy and seclusion and is popular with couples, especially those on honeymoon. It’s easier to find a hidden romantic table on the beach or in a snug corner of a restaurant.

Enjoy!

Siam Map Company Ltd.

52/6 Samui Ring Road, Moo 3 Bo Phut, Koh Samui, 84320, Thailand Tel: 0 7742 2201 Fax: 0 7741 3523 E-mail: info@siammap.com www.siammap.com

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Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial content in any manner is prohibited without written permision from Siam Map Company Ltd. While every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this publication, Siam Map Company Ltd. assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions. Neither is any liability for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.

Siam Map Company Ltd. 2018

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Please recycle or pass on to a friend.

Maenam Bophut Nathon

Chaweng

Samui

Lamai

7

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CONTENTS

16

General Impressions A striking statue marks Samui’s Chinese past and present.

24

Double The Fun EasyKart and EasyFly Samui offer thrilling alternatives to the usual holiday activities.

32

Vintage Yet Always En Vogue Pick Poppies for dinner tonight.

40

48

54 Flying Samui Some insights into Samui’s airport.

60 Thai Classic Authentic Thai cuisine at Nora Buri’s signature restaurant: Rice Barge & Terrace

66 The Mala And The Market A look under the surface of the Samui Green Market.

72

Pants With Pizzazz Fishermen Pants Shop in Lamai has raised the bar for traditional clothing.

Thai Surprise Something quite exceptional is happening at Anantara Bophut Koh Samui Resort!

78

Breaking Good Compulsive, addictive and totally fascinating – immerse yourself in Escape Break!

110

72

24

Cheap At Twice The Price?

There’s a dual-pricing system in Thailand – is this simple economics, or simply discrimination?

82

Get A Grip On The Rip Currents, critters, coral and what to look out for in the water.

88 Teeth Sorted, Wallet Happy Bangkok Samui Dental Clinic can help in all kinds of cases – and it’s very affordable.

92 Net Value Even though it’s a world-class tourist destination, Samui still relies very much on its fishing industry.

98 Heavenly Celes A look at one of Samui’s finest new restaurants – Sea Grille at Celes Beachfront Resort.

104 Muay Muddle!

There are two Thai boxing stadiums in Chaweng – let’s straighten out the online muddle.

110 More Than Just Big Teeth!

The Samui Crocodile Farm is interesting and entertaining – and it’s right next to Chaweng.

BEACHFRONT DINING & COCKTAILS RockPool at Kanda Residences is a spectacular beachfront restaurant and bar situated just five minutes from Chaweng

For reservations or more information call +66 77 234 500 www.rockpoolsamui.com Facebook: rockpool.kohsamui

Daily high tea from 12pm and happy hour with buy one get one free on selected drinks from 5pm until 7pm.

Chaweng

Chaweng’s main beach is five kilometres in length and is lined with 5-star luxury resorts, boutique hotels, budget accommodation and great oceanfront restaurants.

Behind the resorts, the Chaweng Beach Road is filled with restaurants, bars, spas, shops, street stalls and mobile food vendors. The lake sits to the rear of them and is a wonderful place for an early morning walk or jog. Near the southern end of the lake is the Soi Reggae entertainment area which also has two Muay Thai boxing stadiums, a temple guarded by carved monkeys and the huge Laem Din market complex. All manner of fresh produce is delivered here every day and the adjoining Dow Seafood market is a hive of activity from the early hours.

Lamai

Samui’s second most popular beach is around four kilometres long and the waters are perfect for swimming. There’s plenty of choice in accommodation, restaurants, bars, spas and health resorts. It also has a free Muay Thai event every Saturday and just off the Beach Road there’s a children’s water park. Wat Lamai is home to a cultural centre and museum that houses artifacts of Samui life before the advent of tourism. On Sundays there’s a ‘Walking Street’ along part of the Beach Road.

And just outside of Lamai town on the ring-road is the famous Hin Ta-Hin Yai rock formations that has dozens of small local Thai restaurants around it.

10 l www.samuiholiday.com

Mae Nam

Nestled on the northern shores of the island, Mae Nam Beach stretches for several kilometres and overlooks the neighbouring island of Koh Pha-Ngan. High-end resorts and beach bungalows are dotted along the coast and many visitors love it for its peacefulness, soft golden sands and wonderful views. It has seven side streets that meander into the mountains: from Soi 1 you can follow the road over the mountains all the way to Lamai; Soi 4 has a ‘Walking Street’ every Thursday from mid-afternoon and also houses an ornate Chinese temple overlooking the beach and a large Buddhist temple set a few hundred metres back from the ringroad; Soi 5 has a tree-top canopy adventure theme park a few kilometres into the hills; there’s a buffalo fighting stadium a couple of hundred metres off the main road between Soi 5 and Soi 6; an early morning market is also in Soi 6; an evening market near to Soi 7; and the world-class Santiburi Golf Course in the hills above Soi 7. There’re dozens of bars and restaurants in Mae Nam, many of which are on side roads that lead down to the ocean. And at the western end of the beach the Lomprayah ferry takes passengers to the neighbouring islands several times a day.

Island Insight An overall guide to Samui’s towns, villages, beaches and hotspots.

Samui is an idyllic tropical paradise. A blend of traditional Thai hospitality and remote island life has joined hands with modern traveller expectations. But the towns, villages and interior are home to much more than just luxury resorts, restaurants, bars and retail shops. And whilst the main beaches are recognised as some of the best in the world, there are also secluded coves and magical hideaways around many corners – if you know where to look. And this quick guide will point you in the right direction.

NathoN

This is the island’s main administrative centre and the major ferry port for boats to and from the mainland. There’re some hotels but it’s more a town you would visit for an afternoon rather than stay in. Beside the terminal, there’s a local food market every day from mid-afternoon until late in the evening. Along what is known as the ‘middle road’ there’re old teak shop-houses and small businesses and a ‘Walking Street’ on Saturdays. And on the one-way road that goes through the town there’re dozens of shops and restaurants. Just off the main road there’s an ornate Chinese temple and garden in Soi 4. And near the far end there’s a renowned open-air duck restaurant – just follow the crowds around lunchtime.

Bo Phut

Bo Phut is best known for Fisherman’s Village. It’s a single narrow street that still has authentic wooden houses that Samui folk have lived in for generations. Parts of it have been modernized but it’s still awash with local foods, international restaurants, bars, shops and market stalls. It becomes one huge ‘Walking Street’ every Friday and you’ll find lots of local delicacies that few other restaurants have. Along with small hotels, there’re several 5-star luxury resorts at the far end and the beach curves around a large bay that also overlooks Koh Pha-Ngan.

And small speedboats leave from the village pier heading for the Full Moon parties that take place there every month.

Big Buddha and Plai Laem

The magnificent golden Big Buddha statue that watches over the island from the north-east corner of Samui is one of the first things you see as you fly into Samui Airport. Built on a tiny island (Koh Farn) with a connecting causeway, it’s the most iconic image of the island. Many Thais pray at the temple so dressing and acting appropriately is expected when you enter the site. There’re some very good Thai restaurants and small stores around the temple. It also affords some beautiful views and along the road from it you’ll see another large Buddha image at Wat Plai Laem. Half-way along the road between the temples is a side road that cuts through to Choeng Mon. Down this road there’s access to some quiet secluded beaches, although some of them are through resorts.

Choeng Mon

Choeng Mon lies just 15 minutes or so from the middle of Chaweng but it seems like worlds away. There’s a small town that the road runs through with a couple of dozen restaurants and bars. The beach is a favourite for many locals as it’s quiet, picturesque and safe for swimming most of the year round. There’s every class of accommodation with some old-style beach bungalows at one end. And they all overlook the tiny deserted island of Koh Farn Noi which you can walk out to if the tide is low.

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Bang Rak

In between Fisherman’s Village and Big Buddha is where you’ll find Bang Rak. There’s a few very good resorts and some private villas for rent along the beachfront that stretches around for several kilometres and has stunning views.

Bars and restaurants line the main street and there’re two piers. The one nearest to Big Buddha has daily ferries to Koh Pha-Ngan, Koh Tao and on to the mainland port of Chumpon, from which a VIP bus takes passengers to Hua Hin and on to Bangkok. Start to finish, it’s a 12-hour journey with about half of it on the boat.

Just beside the ferry terminal in Bang Rak is one of the busiest fish markets on the island. Local fishermen drop their catches here and the place is bustling with people all day long. At the other end of town there’s a short-cut into Chaweng on a road called Soi Bond Kai (which the locals refer to as the ‘Ghost Road’).

Taling Ngam and Lipa Noi

The south-west part of the island is known as the ‘Virgin Coast’. It’s largely unspoiled with lots of secluded bays, although most of the shoreline tends to be rocky. The west coast overlooks the famous ‘five islands’ and some of the closer islands of the Angthong National Marine Park (which is a perfect getaway for a day’s boat trip excursion). In this part of the island there’re some hotels, private villas for rent, up-market and local restaurants and several temples of note, including two that house a mummified monk. A second car ferry terminal is located in Lipa Noi and, like the one in Nathon, boats to and from Donsak on the mainland arrive and depart every hour from 5:00 am until 6:00 pm (check for details). And inland on the island’s main ring-road there’re several large waterfall sites and a safari park with elephant trekking, animal shows and adventure tours. Further along, next to the Ford and Mazda dealers is a new Butterfly and Insect Kingdom Park.

12 l www.samuiholiday.com

Hua Thanon

This predominately muslim village is home to the descendants of some of the island’s earliest settlers. There’s still a thriving fishing fleet and fish market and a natural coastline that’s survived the ravages of time. Just after the village (coming from Lamai) you can turn off the ring-road to the left and signs will direct you to the nearby Tiger Zoo, Aquarium and Sea-life Show, the Butterfly Farm, the Snake Farm and the local Rum Distillery.

Thong Krut

With its brightly coloured fishing boats and backdrop of small islands to the one side, and coconut plantations to the other, Thong Krut is a picturesque little village.

Located in the southwest corner of the island, this is where you’ll come if you’re after a long-tail boat to take you to the nearby islands of Koh Tan and Koh Matsum.

Lining the shore you’ll find a selection of simple restaurants offering Thai food, and particularly good seafood, as well as tour operators offering trips to the islands.

The Interior

Samui predominately consists of hills, mountains and coconut plantations. And few visitors make the time to appreciate its hidden beauty. One way to do so is to take the turning into Mae Nam Soi 1. A new road has recently been constructed that goes over the mountains all the way to Lamai. The drive is only about 20-25 minutes over 15 kilometres with a couple of stopping off areas that offer fabulous views. Another way to really get the full picture of Samui is from Tar Nim’s Magic Garden at the top of one of the island’s highest peaks. Built during a 25-year period by a local farmer the stone statues in the garden were sculpted by hand and sit over 2,000 feet above the beaches below.

GENERAL IMPRESSIONS A striking statue marks Samui’s Chinese past and present.

Early morning, and a dense little group of mostly elderly men and women are sitting over tea and snacks, their talk animated. It’s a convivial scene, and would seem fitting in any restaurant, just about anywhere. Yet the place where they’re talking sits at the top of a shrine, in its very heart, and is overshadowed by an astonishingly large statue of a military figure. Nobody seems to be even glancing up, but all will be aware of the statue, that of General Guan Yu. He’s actually the reason why they’re here. And not just that, he’s the one who binds them together.

The group here today, are all descendants of Chinese people from the island of Hainan, who came to Samui a century or more ago, and who were to eventually build the statue and the buildings around it, the ensemble officially known as the Guan Yu Koh Samui Shrine. The General, Guan Yu, was renowned in his time not just for military prowess, but for his virtues that paved the way for people to live together in harmony. There are statues of him more or less anywhere Chinese people have settled; this particular statue on the ring-road in Ban Hua Thanon is the largest in Thailand, some 16 metres high, and one of the largest in the world. As such, it’s hardly the average military statue, a polite addition to urban topography, and a nod in the direction of some worthy, barely-remembered figure. This one’s different.

The General appears totally life-like, and rather than being cast in grey or white marble, is a wondrous, multi-coloured affair. The General’s expression isn’t staid; he’s not caught in a solemn moment whilst reviewing troops – he’s about to swing into action. But more important than all of that, he doesn’t belong in the past, but is a figure representing both now and the future. He is a fully-fledged god to the Chinese, and venerated as such.

Khun Virach Pongchababnapa is the person in charge of the shrine, and everything that goes on here. A mine of information when it comes to how the Chinese first settled on Samui, he wants to preserve the history of his people. He’s decorated the hall inside the shrine with photographs of ancestors, and there are even some voice recordings. In 1872, the first Chinese shrine was built in Ban Hua Thanon. It was later moved, and today’s shrine replaces it. For some visitors the fact that the Guan Yu shrine was designed in 2008 comes as a surprise, as it looks so traditional.

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The shrine includes some buildings (more are under construction and will include a hotel) which are grouped around the statue. People come here to learn the Chinese language, and it’s a place where donations are collected, in this case for children who need more educational resources, such as computers. It will still take some years before everything is complete, and even if it may look old, the shrine is a place that looks to the future as much to the past.

The shrine is along the road heading away from Lamai as you approach the centre of Ban Hua Thanon; you’ll pass the Guan Yu Koh Samui Shrine on your right. It’s worth stopping and taking a closer look at the shrine here. There’s a lot to see, certainly enough to work up an appetite. And if you want to eat, then the small restaurants clustered around the shrine are highly recommended. Prices are on the cheap side, but the food’s delicious. You can eat specialty Hainanese Chicken Rice at the eatery of the same name; the recipe is Khun Virach’s own.

There’s also a line of eateries where you simply sit down and order food from any of them; a tea or coffee from one, a main course from another and desserts from a third. Nobody minds. In this way, you can get to eat say, a soup, followed by leg of pork, then coconut ice-cream, rounding off with a tea or coffee.

A visit to the Guan Yu shrine is certainly worth it; check out not just the shrine itself but also the nearby fishing port of Ban Hua Thanon close by. Both the shrine and the port are very traditional. They’re strangely unaffected by tourism and it’s a chance to see a different side of Samui.

Dimitri Waring 20 l www.samuiholiday.com

DOUBLE THE FUN EasyKart and EasyFly Samui offer thrilling alternatives to the usual holiday activities.

For a great time out, Samui has lots on offer, and there’s never a shortage of activities. If you’re looking for something that’s sure to be extra fun and will become a vivid memory, then try EasyKart and EasyFly. You can opt for one or other of these two activities, though many visitors go for both.

The folks at EasyKart have built a full stadium that overlooks two separate go-kart circuits. Just to watch the karts whizzing round is fun; but to be in one as the driver is no less than exhilarating. This scaled-down version of motor racing is fast, furious and the most amazing rush. Go-karting is an activity that’s suitable for all ages. The only requirement is that you must be at least 110 centimetres in height. Both the circuits have plenty of variety, and you’ll need to pit your wits against the layout, getting your speed and timing right as you whiz along.

If you’re new to go-karting, then you may want to opt for the first of the circuits, which is for beginners and children, and is 350 metres in length.

Smaller, less powerful go-karts are used, though it’ll still be an adrenalin

rush. Then there’s an 800 metre circuit for more advanced drivers, using go-karts that are a lot more powerful – 270cc with speeds up to 70km/h.

The team here can also provide basic training, but whether you’re old or young, beginner or advanced, you will need to exercise responsibility. Each circuit has attendants who watch the drivers with an eagle eye. If someone’s behaving dangerously they can slow the speed, stop the kart and even stop all karts altogether.

You’ll find the track is very professionally maintained, as are all the vehicles. Rubber tyres line every bit of the tracks meaning that any impact is greatly lessened. The owner used to be a racing driver, which is why he decided to share his passion, first opening a circuit in Bangkok in 2004, then later one in Pattaya, before coming to Samui in 2014.

EasyKart is only one aspect of the fun here, however. EasyFly, housed towards the end of the stadium provides a very different way to spend time. Who hasn’t at some stage wanted to simply be able to fly through the air? It’s mankind’s oldest dream, and still for most of us, an impossibility – unless in a plane, of course – yet EasyFly makes it all a cinch.

It’s called Indoor Skydiving, and for this they use a kind of vertical wind tunnel that’s normally only found at aerodromes, and is traditionally used to train parachutists who are free-falling from planes. Here, however, you start from the ground, and the wind pushes you up, up, up. You’ll need to wear a special suit that helps keep you buoyant, and listen to a video presentation that explains how to proceed. The trainer is with you the whole time, and first holds you horizontal when the wind starts. Then you’ll lift off by yourself. He stays with you the whole time monitoring you. You can fly unsupported up to a height of five metres, and also hover in the air. You’re kept aloft by a wind speed of approximately 200 km/per hour. There are two skydive simulations, the equivalent of two jumps out of a plane at a height of 12,000 feet.

EasyFly is extremely popular, and has caught on as something unexpected do on Samui. For some, it’s an addictive experience, while for others it’ll be a first step to actually parachuting from a plane.

28 l www.samuiholiday.com

You’ll find EasyKart and EasyFly on the peninsula that juts into Chaweng Lake. They’re close by the Reggae Bar and are open daily from midday until 8:00 pm for check-ins on site. Staff are friendly and helpful, ensuring that you enjoy your time here, whether you’re flying round the go-kart circuit or flying in the air.

Once you’ve finished, you may realise that you’ve worked up quite an appetite or at least are thirsty. At the bar and restaurant overlooking the race tracks you can partake not just of drinks but a range of snacks such as French fries, chicken nuggets and Mexican chicken wings. The venue also caters for large and small gatherings and even corporate events. A powerful sound system makes it ideal to enjoy a party and combine it with racing round the go-kart circuits or flying.

EasyKart and EasyFly provide residents and holidaymakers with the maximum of fun, and offer a great alternative to the usual vacation activities.

Dimitri Waring

_____________________________________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 7741 3302. www.easykart.net

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Reservations: 077 458 100

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VINTAGE YET ALWAYS EN VOGUE

Pick Poppies for dinner tonight.

Choosing the best restaurants on Samui when there’s so much on offer can be a challenging task; if you’re driving along, there’s a crop of vibrant-looking places, not to mention brand new ones too. There’s much to catch the eye, but when it comes to Poppies Samui, you’ll need to go beyond the façade to see what this place is all about. Not much is visible from the road, yet a visit here is guaranteed to be memorable.

To start with, how many restaurants allow you to reach your table via a hidden passageway? There will be few contenders for this, and fewer still where your chef emerges from a kitchen to present you with an amuse-bouche on the way. The completely hidden tunnel was built to connect the kitchen and beach end of Poppies with the lobby area. It’s accessed by a door that’s so well-camouflaged it might be secret, and then by a faux bookcase that swings aside to let you into the passage proper.

If secret approaches aren’t your thing, the other way to get to the restaurant is to pass through a remarkably lush garden, cross a carp-filled pond and arrive at your table. (You’ll still be presented with that amusebouche by the way.)

Poppies is a little world all of its own that unfolds as you go, unexpected and intricately composed. It looks timeless, and first opened its doors in 1995. Since then it only seems to get better as the years go by.

The gardens aren’t the only magnificent feature at Poppies; the dining room is an authentic Burmese teak pavilion with a second, smaller one even closer to the sea. In addition, you can dine on a terrace fronting the beach or on the sands themselves. Poppies may have been the first restaurant of its kind on the island, but it doesn’t just pride itself on its historic role; if it was a leader back then, it still is today. Poppies remains 34 l www.samuiholiday.com

a name that exudes quality, great service and it’s known far afield for its mouth-watering menus. Choose between international fare or traditional Thai. At Poppies, there are two executive chefs, Khun Wantanee, who’s in charge of everything Thai, and Khun Noi, who is responsible for the international side. Together, they’re able to cater for all palates. The Thai tastes here at Poppies are all authentic; dishes that have been popular for hundreds of years are made to perfection. And not surprisingly, the restaurant has many repeat diners.

This is also one of the foremost places on the island to enjoy ‘Kantok’, a Thai traditional shared meal presented on a rattan tray, and ideal for couples or friends. There’s a choice of different types at Poppies: Traditional, Vegetarian, Royal Thai, Four Regions or Seafood. Each comes with four delicious courses, followed by a dessert. Relatively few restaurants offer Kantok of any kind, but even if they did, Poppies would still stand out when it comes to the sheer tastiness of these dishes.

Aside from Kantok, you’ll find all manner of delights such as spicy wing bean salad, grilled beef or pork slices with shallots, tomato and lime, whole steamed snapper with lime and chilli, Chinese roast duck in red curry with grapes and pineapple. Then there are stir-fries, noodle and rice dishes, and a whole medley of delightful dishes that have been put together with the utmost care.

Poppies has recently started serving a special set meal in a traditional three-tiered tray or ‘Pinto’, with each tier holding a different dish. The pinto features the best of Thai and international flavours and was created using the skills of both chefs.

The international menu is every bit as good too. Here you’ll find extraordinarily good starters such as baked goat’s cheese in a filo pastry parcel along with a compote of figs, seared sea scallops with white wine pickled ginger and cream sauce. Salads, meanwhile, range from the simple and delicious Greek salad through to beer battered prawns and avocado on rocket or the excellent Australian beef carpaccio. And speaking of beef, for main courses, you can enjoy steaks of certified Black Angus, either fillet or tenderloin. Catch of the day is prepared in a variety of ways, including Cajun style, char-grilled, parmesan-coated – these are just examples – and you can always ask the waiting staff if

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you would prefer a different style; they are extremely helpful as well as flexible.

Poppies also has an international vegetarian menu, an irresistible line-up of desserts, and an innovative selection of wines from both the new and old worlds. Once dinner is finally over, each diner is given a complimentary shot glass of Kahlúa.

Every Saturday, Poppies hosts its weekly Thai night, which includes traditional Thai dancing along with live musicians and an interesting market that features the best of local handicrafts.

Poppies offers you the very best, whether it’s traditional Thai or international dishes. Combine that with the beautiful beachside setting, and you can see why Poppies, one of the longest-running establishments on Samui, continues to be a star.

Dimitri Waring

_____________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 2419. www.poppiessamui.com

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We keep your measurements in our database so you can order in future by mail.

Starting price for suit (jacket & trousers) 6,000 THB

Free Pick-up Service Please Call Mr.Paul : +66 (0) 84 627 3812 E-mail: paulfashion.samui@gmail.com www.paulsfashion-samui.com Chaweng Beach Road, opp. Mc Donald’s next to Baan Samui Resort

To avoid commission for third parties, please call us directly for the absolute best price!

PANTS WITH PIZZAZZ

Fishermen Pants Shop in Lamai has raised the bar for traditional clothing.

Fisherman’s pants are definitely not all created equal. Most of them are flimsy, and for holidaymakers they’re a vacation purchase, along the lines of fun and frivolous. A handful of producers however, make fisherman’s pants that are eye-catchingly different: long-lasting, chic and with patterns that are unique. These are pants that match practicality (you can use them for yoga, sports and for pregnancy) with fashion (ideal for a party, or for an out-and-about time in the city). Here on Samui you’ll find a unique producer of such pants. Head for Fishermen Pants Shop in Lamai, and you’ll be browsing through the crème de la crème of creations.

Even Thai people are amazed by the collections here, for they, like everyone, believe that fisherman’s pants are necessarily going to be iffy.

This small shop turns that belief on its head. Look at the stitching and you’ll see its going to stand the test of time. Then look at the materials 42 l www.samuiholiday.com

and you can see that they’re high quality – exactly the type that’s going to last. But that’s probably not going to be what you notice first. You’ll be bedazzled by the designs themselves.

There are plenty of these, and enough to warrant some time spent looking through them. You’ll find motifs that include fish, animals and birds; swirling yet enticing abstract designs and then those that give a nod to other cultures – the yuzen patterns of Japanese fabrics or the prints of Rajasthan.

You’ll also find Nepalese hemp and Chiang Mai batik, along with quality linens, with everything carefully put together and beautifully patterned.

Children love these fisherman’s pants too, and here they’ll find their very own range.

This is exactly the kind of store that you delight to find in your travels. It’s the creation of Erez Shmargad, who first began making fisherman’s pants well over 15 years ago, while he was living in India, but he then moved

closer to their source and came to Thailand. In that time, he’s kept on honing down exactly what makes a great pair of fisherman’s pants, so the products have gotten better and better. He receives new stock every two weeks, so what’s in his store one day might not be there when you next come back. But just in case you can’t make it to Lamai, then he and his partner Belinda maintain an excellent website (you can even chat to him through it) and you’ll be able to browse the entire collection and order anything you wish.

But it’d be a pity not to visit the store. To get there, turn left off the ring-road and onto the beach road as you head into Lamai from Chaweng, then turn left at the first crossroads. The store is a hundred metres down towards the sea. Opening times are 10:00 am until 7:00 pm daily, except Sundays, when the store’s open from 2:00 pm until 10:00 pm. Outside of those times, just give Erez a call. A warm welcome is given to everyone who visits. There’s no hard sell, or even soft sell. Erez is extremely hospitable www.samuiholiday.com l 43

and tends to keep open house – don’t be surprised if you get offered something to eat. It’s the sort of place that you don’t see much of these days, where nobody minds whether you buy something or just wander round, yet where there’s friendliness in the air.

The shop has an exciting range of sarongs and dresses – there are currently almost 100 different patterns – and these have been made to equally rigorous specifications. There are also bags and accessories and bikinis. The collection has been carefully put together, with many things made by hand, and using hand-screen and block-printing techniques.

From their small store Erez and Belinda offer treasures that can’t be found anywhere else. What they’re doing is a new version of an old story: they’re taking traditional clothing and giving it a make-over so that it morphs into exemplary wear that’s all about reliability and elegance.

And better still, not only is it great for a holiday in the sun but when you have to go home, these unique clothes won’t let you down; you can take them with you and they’ll still be wearable for years.

Dimitri Waring _______________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 895 865 263 or 0 623 516 192. www.fishermenpants.com

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BREAKING GOOD Compulsive, addictive and totally fascinating – immerse yourself in Escape Break!

The idea of ‘game rooms’ first appeared back in the mid ‘90s, in Japan.

Instead of using computers, actual, real environments appeared – real people in real rooms, working off their stress and playing against the clock. But the ‘escape room’ concept didn’t really take off until Silicone Valley got hold of it, refined it, modernised it, and turned it loose onto the world. Today there are now around 4,000 escape room venues worldwide. And one of them is on Samui, in Lamai.

For those of you of a certain age, who are wondering what an ‘escape room’ is all about, consider this. You (plus two or three friends) are actually inside a series of rooms. The first room is locked. But there are hidden clues which you have to discover, and you have to use your combined wit and powers of analysis and deduction to unlock the first door and progress on to the next room.

There’s a time limit of one hour per room. And a total of three rooms to defeat before you can achieve your objective. Each set of rooms has a different theme, and a matching task. For example, in Ghost Ship, you are commissioned to salvage the remains of the Mary Celeste that has been spotted floating in the ocean, with its crew mysteriously vanished.

You hear noises coming from below deck. You enter the cabin, the door swings shut behind you, and you’re stuck. There’s a storm coming, and you and your shipmates have to work together to unravel the mysteries before it arrives and you perish.

There are locks on chests, cupboards and drawers, plus of course on the first objective, the door to the next room. Some of these locks need a key to open them. Others need a combination of numbers – there are even letter-combination locks. And at least one of the clues needs some lateral thinking, and isn’t at all obvious!

Clues are found in all sorts of places and come in all kinds of ways – sometimes from a detail on a map, or perhaps connecting the code found in a journal with a chart found elsewhere. And it’s also non-linear – meaning that maybe you have open other rooms first to find further clues that are still hidden back where you started!

There are four different theme rooms – Outbreak, Relic Rush, Ghost Ship and Kowloon Captive. And some are notably harder than others. The advice here is simple: unless you’ve played this kind of escape game before, begin with the simplest! There is a parallel here with crossword puzzles. To a novice, some of the clues will make no sense at all. But once you’ve got your head around the way they’re put together, it all becomes easier.

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One of the most excellent things is that there are a team of ‘gamemasters’ (in this case game ladies!) who are on hand to monitor your progress. They stay unobtrusively behind the scenes, but each room has a CCTV monitor. And if your gamemaster sees you’re having trouble or seem to have got stuck, then you’ll hear a helpful tip or word of advice coming mysteriously from the ceiling!

The whole thing really is addictive, and the rooms bear an uncanny resemblance to a real computer game, somehow making it even more realistic (work that one out!). To begin with you’ll all be searching for clues, shouting out discoveries and getting in each other’s way. And you’ll spend the first 20 minutes getting frustrated. Then you’ll realise that even seemingly meaningless items can hold the key to your freedom.

And then, suddenly, there’s only 10 minutes to go, and you still haven’t opened the door – you’re on the last clue . . .

Khun Tat is the smiling and outgoing manager here, and she told me that nobody has ever yet actually ‘died’ inside their room. And also that it’s actually rare for a group to come just the one time – the rush is so compelling that most come back again at least once, and with many groups compelled to return to complete the last and hardest of the challenges.

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EXPERIENCE SIGNATURE CHAR GRILL DINING AT ITS BEST. Dining on an al fresco deck on the west end of Fisherman's Village, overlooking our charming Lily Pond garden and shoreline infinity pool. Savour fresh seafood and tender meats grilled to perfection, enhanced by tableside preparations and expert salt guru seasonings.

Every day for lunch and dinner 12.00 noon – 10.30 pm For reservations or more information, please contact our Guest Service Centre at +66 77 428 300 or email bophutsamui@anantara.com.

LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com

Full Moon

Fisherman’s Village

This is all very popular with companies (and even local schools) engaged in team-building. And it’s also a great hit with wedding parties, with fierce completion between the sexes making life amusing for the gamemasters.

You’ll find Escape Break tucked away as a part of the popular Beach Republic resort and beach club, so simply Google that and follow the map – it’s easy enough to find. And a booking is a must if you want to end up ‘breaking good’ from one of those fascinating rooms!

Rob De Wet

_______________________________________________________ For more information, telephone 0 7745 8100. www.escapebreak.com Instagram: escapebreaksamui Facebook: Escape Break (Samui) Anantara Bophut Koh Samui Resort 99/9 Moo 1, Bophut Bay, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 84320 Thailand T +66 (0) 77 428 300-9 F +66 (0) 77 428 310 E bophutsamui@anantara.com

FLYING SAMUI Some insights into Samui’s airport.

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It’s hard to imagine Samui with no airport. Indeed, try to picture this: only one ATM machine on the whole island (in Nathon); only one 7-11 (also in Nathon); Chaweng is tiny (just a few hundred metres on either side of Soi Green Mango) and with a rough dirt road through the middle; no internet, smartphones, Wi-Fi or social media, and no McDonalds, Pizza Hut or Tesco-Lotus. And no airport. Hard to imagine; but that’s the way it was back in 1988.

Another thing that might surprise you in today’s technological age – Samui has very little in the way of recorded history. While there are records of events in the West going back for thousands of years, there’s virtually nothing about Samui. In fact, even today, the elders of the villages here rarely travel more than a few kilometres away from home. And, most certainly, when the first regular ferry service from the mainland began ‘somewhere in the late 1980s’ few if any were interested, and many of the islanders didn’t even get to know about it for quite a number of years.

But although we have to guess at roughly when the island of Samui first became accessible to outside visitors, the story of Samui’s airport is a very different matter. And it all revolves around one man, Khun Prasert Prasarttong-Osoth. Born in 1933, he received a bachelor’s degree from Siriraj University Medical School, after which he qualified and practiced as a surgeon for the next five years. But this was the post-Vietnam War era, and for anyone with an astute mind there were opportunities aplenty.

In 1968, more or less at the same time, he set up Bangkok Dusit Medical Services, (which today has over 44 international-quality hospitals). And he also bought a small 9-seater aircraft and established ‘Sahakol Air’, a contract air-taxi service, working with several American companies, including United States Operations Mission (USOM). In 1970, he expanded into domestic flight and carrier services.

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This is significant. In the early 1980s, Khun Prasert had already noticed the increase in getaway-popularity of Koh Samui, and predicted the potential of the island. All that was missing was an airport. And to demonstrate his shrewd business acumen, he made the local government an offer. He would personally fund the construction of an international airport in its entirety, including infrastructure, in exchange for certain concessions, one of them being his company’s right as the owner to remain the sole carrier licenced to use the airport.

Two things happened right away. The local administration jumped at the chance. And Khun Prasert, fully realising the implications of such a monopoly at Samui airport, immediately began to expand, renaming his company ‘Bangkok Airways’, to coincide with the opening of Samui Airport in 1989.

was carefully designed and architected to reflect the Samui heritage. All the buildings were single-storey, largely made of local coconut wood, and with the check-in counters and waiting lounges housed in a huge ‘sala’ (essentially just a huge roof that was open on all sides). Cafes, shops and restrooms formed a U-shape with a big expanse of open lawn in the middle that hosted a children’s play area. And the little trains that carried passengers across the tarmac to their aircraft were like giant kiddies’ toys. It’s no wonder that right away the airport began collecting international design awards, and for very many years was voted in the top ten of ‘the world’s best airports’.

As you will have gathered, Samui back in the late ’80s and early ’90s was charming, rustic, unspoiled, undeveloped and inexpensive. And, in the decade that was to follow, due to the airport which put it only just over one hour away from Bangkok, investment and commerce flourished, as did the number of visitors flying here via Bangkok Airways.

In 2007, the layout changed, and the expanded airport was redesigned around the existing runways, now geared-up to handle 16,000 passengers a day – increasing the passenger capacity from 1.3 million to six million a year. But the original cute little ‘kiddies’ playground’ is still here, hidden away to the side. You can’t see it from the road, as it’s now where the cargo operations are based. It’s not as pretty or as immaculate as it was when it won awards. But if you’ve got a big parcel to send, then stop and linger awhile; it’s a little piece of the island’s history – and one you can still see for yourself!

But not only was he a clever businessman and a man of vision, Khun was also sensitive and visually aware. And so the original airport site

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THAI CLASSIC Authentic Thai cuisine at Nora Buri’s signature restaurant: Rice Barge & Terrace

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Back in Europe, Thai food tastes different. Restaurants there either don’t use the same ingredients, or they ‘tone it down’ to the way they think their customers want it. And the same thing happens here – just about every restaurant you try seems to make their food a different way.

Plus the fact that there are four different sorts of Thai cuisine anyway, depending on the region. It can all get a bit confusing . . . unless you go to ‘Rice Barge & Terrace’, that is.

Rice Barge & Terrace is the flagship restaurant of the Nora Buri Resort & Spa, located just a few minutes’ drive north of the main body of Chaweng, towards neighbouring Choeng Mon. One way or the other, you simply have to spend a little time here. The building itself is a Samui landmark, and is simply outstanding.

Entirely constructed from teak, it’s a three-floor building with four cascading roofs, tiered on three levels down the hillside, and surrealistically shaped to symbolise a giant wooden sailing barge. In fact there are three restaurants here, not one. At sea level is ‘The Barge

Restaurant’, serving quality International and Thai dishes. Then there’s another floor for private functions. And right at the top, with a superb sea view, is Rice Barge & Terrace.

The layout of Rice Barge is fascinating, comprising of one self-contained interior room, with the outward-facing walls being floor-to-ceiling glass.

As with everything here, the theme of dark, rich wood dominates: the floors and ceiling are of sculpted timber, with massive wood pillars in the corners, and sturdy, modern furniture to match. The design is clever; you step down into a number of ‘wells’ in the floor, arranged with deep cushions around the edge and Thai triangular backrests (known as ‘mon Thai’), and with a broad table in the middle of each.

The cuisine here is as classy as the layout and décor would suggest – in fact this is essentially fine-dining, Thai-style. There are featured dishes from all four regions. The menu is divided into all the usual sections, starters, soups, noodle dishes, stir-fries and curries, but with all the ingredients being top quality and imported (the beef from Australia) –

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something you’ll appreciate if you’ve ever sampled the low-grade market meats bought-in by some small Thai eateries on the street. There is, of course, a big section featuring seafood. But everybody’s all-time favourite is the ‘khantoke’ set.

Originating in the Northern Region of Thailand, khantoke is a series of different dishes, each in its own small platter, arranged on a tray. In this case you’ll be treated to a selection of two offerings from the Northern Region, two from the North East, two from the South and one from the Central Plain. The presentation is exquisite, reminiscent of the elaborate designs and painstaking attention to detail of Royal Cuisine, with the plates and dishes being elaborately enamelled and inlaid with gold.

There are also regular ‘specials’ which appear now and then, such as the exceptional ‘Candlelight Set Menu’, of which there are two options, one starring Australian beef and the other, Phuket lobster. There are not many restaurants which offer specialised Thai cuisine in a superb setting like this, and Rice Barge & Terrace really should be on everyone’s dining list – especially for that special ‘last night’ meal before leaving for home!

But that’s not all. Down on the ground floor, right next to the edge of the beach, there are other enticements. The restaurant here is open all day and into the evening, so this is the perfect alternative if you fancy getting stuck into something a bit more cosmopolitan, such as the Chef’s

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Signature Set, featuring Australian Beef Tenderloin with Garlic Mash, Dried Tomatoes, Green Vegetables and Red Wine Sauce.

Or you could choose between the Seafood Set Menu for Two, including Duck Salad, Smoked Chicken Cream Soup and a Lobster and Seafood Basket (served with Fried Rice on Pineapple). Or even indulge in the Classic Steak Set Menu for Two – Red Tuna Salad (including green oak lettuce with black olives, cherry tomatoes, green beans and Italian dressing), Pumpkin Soup, then on to a tray with beef tenderloin, lamb chop, pork chop, duck breast and chicken breast (served with sautéed vegetables, garlic mash and corn on the cob). Plus dessert. Or even better still, try the ‘Land & Sea’: a combination of lobster, seafood and steak, which includes salad, soup, and dessert.

Whichever way you want to go, Eastern or Western, the fare here at The Barge is exceptional, and ‘classic’ in every sense!

Rob De Wet

_____________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7791 3555. www.noraburiresort.com

THE MALA AND THE MARKET A look under the surface of the Samui Green Market.

Samui’s a small place. Yes, it hosts more than a million visitors every year. But who actually lives and works here? The answer is a widelyassorted bunch of all nationalities from all over, and from all walks of life.

It’s impossible to guess just how many there are: other than taking their kids to school, there’s no communal way of meeting or getting together.

Or at least that’s the way it was, back in 2007.

This was the year that Tamarind Springs Forest Spa in Lamai decided to celebrate the International Day of Peace, by holding a small yoga festival. To their amazement (and everybody else’s!) around 600 people turned up, and for all sorts of different reasons – it seemed that there were a great many people living here, looking for a way to connect with each other. Thus Samui Mala came about. A loosely-knit group of people with no membership fees or joining criteria, just folk sharing common concerns “for a clean and green world, starting at home, on Samui.”

Since that time, Samui Mala has coordinated numerous events at venues around the island, created fundraisers and helping like-minded groups network around common concerns. Over time, a one-off Mala happening each year was replaced with a regular and on-going community forum in the form of a ‘Green Market.’ Nomadic at first, this forum to get together, meet and greet, swap ideas, eat and drink and enjoy convivial company, found a permanent home at Elysia Boutique Resort in Fisherman’s Village. Here you can find them every six weeks or so, as announced on their Facebook page and website. But every now and then, on special occasions, they’ll move outside to be featured by

a sympathetic host, such as Six Senses Samui, where they were to be found in August.

From the beginning, locally-grown organic produce was on sale, as well as fresh juices, smoothies and other healthy foods. Produce, organic or otherwise, is a real challenge on a tourist island with high land costs.

So over time ‘green’ was overtaken by other healthy and home-made offerings. The range reflects the diversity of the community: the nature and number of the stalls have increased with artisanal breads and baked goods, locally-produced cheeses and chocolate, pestos, jams and even cosmetics and skin-care products made from natural ingredients. Local restaurants and cafes prepare fresh food and drinks for sale, and you’ll often find environmentally-aware resorts, such as Absolute Sanctuary, Kamalaya, Peace Resort, Six Senses Samui and Vikasa attending.

An iconic feature of the Mala since its inception over 10 years ago, and the Samui Green Market today, is to discourage plastic, especially onetime use plastic bags, foam or straws, urging vendors to find alternatives to wrapping or packing in plastic, and for buyers to bring their own shopping bags.

Conservation and recycling in itself is not new to Samui. But whereas a decade ago everyone seemed to be sitting in isolation doing their own little thing, now there’s a coherence and awareness that’s knitting everything together. Whatever else it might be, Samui Mala is the facilitator from which this wider perspective has been born.

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So it’s no surprise that running in parallel with, and woven into Samui Mala and The Green Market, is Trash Hero Samui and Samui Clean, quietly energising, educating and inspiring people, businesses and organisations to join in with their weekly Sunday beach clean-ups and sign up for the refill bottle program.

Today the Samui Green Market is very much a community affair and a thoroughly enjoyable get-together, with live music, as well as a place to occasionally fundraise for worthy causes as diverse as Rohingya refugees, Soi Dog, Yoga Gives Back and The Burmese Learning Centre in Kuraburi.

Samui’s Green Market isn’t just a market: if you go there expecting to find a mini Fisherman’s Village with imported souvenirs you’ll be disappointed (although there are lots of goodies on sale, anyway). In reality it’s an icon – it represents the visible tip of a spreading awareness worldwide among people hoping for a “clean, green, nurturing, proactive and regenerative environment”. And its growing roots are spreading wider with every passing day.

Rob De Wet

____________________________________________________________ Upcoming Green Markets: September 30th , November 11th, December 16th www.samuimala.org Facebook: TrashHeroKohSamui Facebook: SamuiClean Facebook: SamuiGreenMarket

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THAI SURPRISE Something quite exceptional is happening at Anantara Bophut Koh Samui Resort!

You’ll possibly be familiar with the name ‘Anantara Bophut Koh Samui Resort’. And it’s one of the most exclusive fine 5-star resorts on the island.

It’s elegant, refined, luxurious, yet laid-back with it. The quality of service is second to none, and it has all the refinements and facilities you could wish, including two exceptional restaurants. One of these is called simply ‘Eclipse’. And it’s something really rather special.

You’ll find Anantara Bophut on the main ring-road, close to the traffic lights and right across from the landmark of the go-kart track. The entrance is a replica of the entrance to an ancient Thai fortress, overshadowed by giant trees that are festooned with hanging creepers.

Everything here is solid, substantial, understated, and simply whispers quality. And, as you pass through the reception area, stepping downwards towards a long and regally-iconic lily pond, you’ll see the warmly-welcoming light of Eclipse directly on your left.

There must be a thousand Thai restaurants on Samui, of all sorts and shapes and sizes. But there are very few that are good, and only a handful that are outstanding. And out of this handful, Eclipse rates as superb. It’s not simply the fact that the meat, fish and seafood is fresher-than-fresh and top-of-the-tree prime. Or that the recipes include regional fare that is sublimely different. And it’s not even the delightful ambiance there. But it’s certainly got a lot to do with the chef-in-charge, Khun Natruthai Petsuwan (betterknown by her nickname of Khun Sai), having an international pedigree! Chef Sai’s experience includes having worked at prestigious venues in the USA, United Arab Emirates and China – an expertise of both breadth and depth which she now brings to Anantara Bophut.

No, the unique fare at Eclipse is partly the excellent variety of dishes on the menu . . . but it’s more to do with the surprising and

almost visionary inclusion of traditional elements and their presentation.

More than this; some items are rustic and rare, other are majestic and have their roots in the royal palaces of long ago. And it’s this wonderfully-seamless blend of familiar food in and amongst the royal and the rustic – all of it brought together with a fresh and sensitive presentation, courtesy of Chef Sai – that makes Eclipse exceptional.

For example, those of us accustomed to fine-dining will be familiar with the idea of an ‘amuse bouche’. And at Eclipse, this is what you’ll be presented with before your order arrives. But it will be nothing like you’ve ever seen before! On a rattan tray, which contains an antique wooden box with a lid, you’ll be presented with seven small bowls with tiny matching coconut-wood spoons, plus an assortment of freshly picked betel leaves.

This is a ‘dish’ from the Royal Court of King Rama V that was introduced to him around 100 years ago by Princess Dara Rasmi. The name comes from ‘miang’ (food wrapped in leaves) and ‘kham’ (a bite). And once you’ve made a little packet by shaping a leaf, you’ll fill it with mild chillies, dried shrimps, ginger, onion, lime, roasted coconut, tamarind pickle and peanuts, in any blend that you prefer. It’s superb – refreshing and piquant and with a variety of interplaying textures that dance in your mouth.

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Yes, naturally you’ll also see the usual curries and stir-fries and noodle dishes; all of them presented with a similar flair – including a substantial vegetarian selection, by the way. But it has to be the charminglyconvened ‘combination’ options that steal the show at Eclipse, such as the ‘Curry Degustation’ choices – a teak slab on which sits bowls of four different curries accompanied by small dishes of different mixed condiments (green chicken curry, roast duck curry, pork neck curry and massaman beef curry).

Or the exquisite ‘Kantok Sets’, based on seven different specialities from all regions of the kingdom, again beautifully arrayed in small ceramic bowls on a rattan tray. There are three of these to choose from, each set having a different combination of seven mini-dishes, making them an ideal centrepiece for a small group of diners – on their own or in combination with the Curry Degustation!

Not only is this Thai fine-dining at its best but, in addition to the gourmet experience, the Anantara Group is firmly committed to a responsible approach to the environment. All the products for Eclipse are 100% sourced in Thailand. And Anantara as a brand has dropped all imported products in their Thai restaurants nationwide, as a further commitment towards sustainability and supporting local producers.

Welcome to Sa-ard’s Watersports Center on Koh Samui. Where everyday can be an aquatic adventure – above and below the crystal clear blue waters of the Gulf of Thailand.

Join us and discover what r eally makes these islands so very special.

Our brand new catamaran Fountaine Pajot Belize 43 “Kindred Spirit” can comfortably take 15 people on a day trip and sleep 6 people on over-night excursions.

The starboard hull has a double stateroom with ensuite bathroom and living area. There are also two double state rooms in the port hull with a shared bathroom. You’ll also find a large galley and a living area with CD/DVD player and a 28 inch colour TV. All the cabins and living areas are fully air-conditioned.

Not only have they stopped using plastic straws, but are now also sourcing new and exciting Thai meats, such as the organic grainfed ‘Ku Beef’ from the north of Thailand, as well as another local 50-day dry-aged sirloin (the dry-aging process results in cuts of exceptional moisture, flavour and texture).

Anantara. It’s a name to remember, along with Anantara Bophut’s Thai restaurant, Eclipse. It’s a Thai dining experience which will pleasantly take you by surprise!

Rob De Wet

____________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 8300. www.anantara.com

Sa-ard’s Watersports Center also offers Private Speedboat tours to the beaches and snorkeling destinations of the surrounding islands.

Manager and Skipper is Sa-ard, one of Thailand’s most celebrated windsurfers. He took part in the Olympics 1984 in Los Angeles and 1992 in Barcelona, was a long time member of the Thai National Windsurfing Team, has been Asian Champion and 5 times Gold Medal Winner in the South East Asian Games. You simply could not be in better hands!

CHEAP AT TWICE

THE PRICE? There’s a dual-pricing system in Thailand – is this simple economics, or simply discrimination?

I remember when I first went to Egypt. My wife’s cousin had married an Egyptian girl, and her folks had invited us over. They were lovely people, well-educated and with white collar jobs – but we were surprised at how small and shabby their apartment was. Of course, the thing at the top of our list was to see the King Tut exhibit at the Cairo Museum. But even though the family had lived in Cairo all their lives, they didn’t know where the museum was, or how to get to it. And when we finally made it, the admission prices clearly showed that foreigners were being charged five times more money to get in than the locals!

We were fresh off the boat and we were instinctively expecting everything to be the same as we’d always been used to. It took us a while to realise that nations are different – and some more so than others. In fact everything, everywhere, had two sets of prices attached, from street food to air travel, and this was a policy, set right across the board, by the government, with two scales of charges established, printed and published for everything.

The reasoning, of course, is straightforward and is a close parallel to Thailand in more ways than one. Like Egypt, Thailand is a nation which is comparatively much less prosperous than most Western countries. And so it would seem both rational and fair that visitors to Thailand, coming from more affluent countries, should be charged more for the privilege than their Thai counterparts.

But this is where the arguments begin. Is it accurate or fair to assume that every single ‘farang’ (foreigner) can be lumped in the same boat and viewed accordingly? What about Westerners who live and work here, are legally employed by Thai companies and pay tax every month? Or the many foreign teachers, nearly all of whom are on exactly the same pay-scales as their Thai counterparts? It’s recently been publicly admitted by the Thai government that the

collecting of income tax for the millions of self-employed Thai workers is a bit of a muddle, and the majority of these manage to avoid paying any tax at all. But all foreigners are scrupulously inspected, need a work permit, and are taxed on a minimum earnings scale of 50,000 baht a month, whether they earn as much as this or not. Is this reasonable?

they won’t refer to you by name. It’ll be, “ . . . the farang said this,” or, “. . . the farang did that”. But here’s the point: it’s normal! To understand the Thai nation and its people is to know that there’s no malice or rejection in this, it’s just the way things are, and always have been.

The fact of the matter is, much like my distant in-laws in Egypt, the vast majority of Thai people are too busy working or raising families to go around visiting palaces or golden temples. Most family members also don’t know where such places are, exactly. But the basis of dual pricing goes deeper than merely economics. Thailand is culturally and historically very insular. This has led to a national unity and a deep sense of national pride and patriotism. And, hard though it sounds, anyone outside of this will always be a farang, no matter what his or her personal circumstances might be.

And then, look carefully at those places, like national parks, where a dual-pricing system is in place. In terms of percentages it might sound outrageous that the foreigner’s price is 300% more than a Thai national.

But, come on! In reality it’s not a huge difference. And, really, this kind of idealistic quibble is less to do with money and more about a lingering feeling of being discriminated against. But what’s the alternative?

It makes no sense to raise all the prices to the ‘foreigner’ level, thus deterring the Thai people from being able to access historical sites of their own heritage. And it’s equally unrealistic to lower everything down to just a few baht a head, down to the Thai pricing level.

And why not? Think back to your own country and the situation with immigrants. On the whole, all immigrants tend to be lumped together for conversational purposes, isn’t that so? And it’s the same in Thailand. It doesn’t matter that you might have a Thai wife and children and have been living here for 20 years, or how many Thai friends you have.

When you’re sitting in conversation with them and your name comes up,

And so to the final aspect, often voiced by farangs living here – it’s not consistent. Foreigners are being overcharged a lot more by some merchants than others. Some places, restaurants in particular, have no dual prices. (Well, not obviously, anyway – although the overall pricing of the entire menu depends on the area and the mix of tourists, or not! Move one kilometre away and you might find all the food is

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half the price!) The Egyptian Government spent very many years rationalising a comprehensive 2-tier price system based on different types of goods and services, subdivided into dozens of sub-categories. It’s publicised and out on show for all to see. It’s mandatory, and vendors are fined for over-charging.

And so the question remains – is it fair? It’s certainly the Thai way, and it’s hard to put the case that prices should be the same for all.

Is it acceptable to find so much variation in farang prices? How do you feel when the Thai girl in front of you has just bargained a T-shirt down to 120 baht but the stall-holder won’t give you the same shirt for less than 300? Or a builder quotes you 50,000 baht more for a garage than he did for your Thai friend? Should it all be rationalised nationally or is it just the way things are? So many questions! Can you come up with the answers?

Rob De Wet

GET A GRIP ON THE RIP

Currents, critters, coral and what to look out for in the water.

Water. I’ll warrant it’s got a lot to do with why you’ve come to Samui.

After all, this is an island, and it’s one that’s surrounded by the bluest of seas, an amazing sea that’s swimmable the whole year round. And it’s mostly safe. Mostly - but not always. And there’s the catch. Water, much like electricity, is something that we think of as relatively safe, but both are ready, willing and able to kill you.

Now, most people who come to Samui have memorable holidays – in the best sense of the word. But sometimes things go wrong. Here are the main dangers, and how to avoid them.

Rip Currents: Chaweng especially is prone to these from the beginning of October until the beginning of February, but they’re a possibility on any beach anywhere in the world. Changes in tides and winds often cause the phenomenon, and the seafloor itself can play a part. There are 21 known causes. How to spot the danger? You often can’t. The water may even look calm – and the surface is, but just underneath there’s this huge, sucking undertow. Some currents can be recognized by churning water or by a break in wave – look along the crest of the wave and if you see a gap of flat water, then beware. Even experts admit it’s very, very hard to spot a rip current. They can come seemingly out of nowhere, and they can start off strong or at first be quite weak – and then a minute later ferociously overpowering. They can reach speeds of just under three metres per second. That’s a speed that can’t be matched even by an Olympic runner.

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water wasn’t even up to my knees. And then all of a sudden there was this very strong current. It swept me off my feet.” Eileen almost drowned but was rescued before it was too late. She had to spend some 24 hours in hospital, too weak at first to move, but alright in the end. It was a terrifying experience, and as she said, she wasn’t even swimming.

Rip currents can knock you down with surprising ease. If you’re swept up in one, then don’t fight the current. Most of these currents are quite narrow – like a river in the sea and what you need to do is to swim in a direction along the shore, not towards it. This means you’ll swim out of the current. If you are unable to do so, be aware that the current will simply peter out once it’s away from the shore. This could be some 300 metres though in the most severe cases. If so you should aim to tread water. But better to avoid the situation in the first place. The only good news is that rip currents don’t pull you under the water, as is commonly thought – they just pull you out to sea. Bad enough, though.

Rip currents aren’t the only danger ... swimming hazards can be quite general and not fall into any particular category. Between coughs and simply going silent for long periods of time, an acquaintance of mine who’s a 30-something ex-commando and who describes himself – and it’s no idle boast – as “very fit and a very good swimmer” told me a few months ago, how earlier in the day he’d gone swimming in Chaweng, way out to sea. “I often do this. I wouldn’t recommend others to even try, but my military training means I can swim efficiently for an hour or so at a time – it’s never been a problem. Today, I’m lucky to be alive. I swam out – did everything as usual – but just couldn’t get back. There was a current. I couldn’t make headway.” “But you made it in the end?”

I asked. “You found the strength?” He said flatly he didn’t. “I was very, very lucky. Someone saw me. I had to be rescued. Otherwise I wouldn’t be here now.”

surfaces, or taking photos. By the way, swimming pools can have slippery steps and rapidly deepening bottoms with no warning signs.

Most have nobody officially on duty.

It was an incident that shouldn’t have been one. Don’t swim out too far as it may not be easy to get back to shore. Above all, err on the side of caution, even if you’ve been living here for years.

Many resorts, especially in Chaweng, fly red flags when it’s dangerous to go in the water. Ignore them and you may just well end up as an accident statistic. Hopefully not, though. If someone’s in trouble, then it’s the jet-ski operators who tend to hurry to the rescue – they have the fastest craft. Resorts will phone them if they’re notified of someone in trouble at sea. A resort manager told me that even when the red flag goes up at his resort, then trouble is still not far behind. “We have to keep watch; people routinely ignore the warning. Any day we put up a red flag, we know that we’ll be fishing people out of the water later on.”

Multitasking: Eh? Hardly a seaside danger! You’re justified in asking what on earth multi-tasking has to do with aquatic safety. After all, you’re not at the office now, juggling emails, schedules and appointments, and trying not to fall behind. But whatever task you’re niftily doing by the waterside while your child is paddling may be your undoing - even if it’s having a much-earned nap. Take this case: safe spot, mother and father tandem supervisors, other people around – a fool-proof formula, you’d think. But multi-tasking was the fatal flaw here: the little three-year old child drowned because her parents were busy doing other things. But both were keeping an eye out, they said. And those other people just happened not to be around at the crucial time.

Be aware too that the sea bed can have dips in it. A child can easily go from safely standing to being underwater in the space of a single step.

Ponds and waterfalls: If you seek an alternative to the sea, you still need to be careful. Ponds have weeds and weeds can wrap themselves around you; waterfalls have the slipperiest of rocks. Of the two, waterfalls present a greater danger. Don’t jump into unknown waters and be careful even when you think you’ve sussed things out. The rock you needed to avoid when you jumped may, in retrospect, appear to have moved towards you. But no, you just miscalculated. So too do people when they’re just clambering about, standing up on mossy

Blobby, spiky, toothy dangers: The seas here tend to be mercifully free of nasty creatures, but again, alas, it’s not guaranteed. Here’s a round-up of the coastal suspects. Recently jellyfish have been making headlines. Samui isn’t plagued with them as are some Mediterranean spots, but you should be aware that a jellyfish sting isn’t so uncommon.

Usually it’s just very, very painful. Alas, though, not all jellyfish are the same. The infamous box jellyfish has been making appearances on our shores. Sadly, there have even been fatalities.

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To treat jellyfish stings you may have to go to hospital, but first aid can greatly help. Pour vinegar on the wound or pee on it – the acid will help take away the pain, whereas water won’t. Take a bottle of vinegar with you to the beach and you’ll be prepared. Check the shoreline for signs of washed up jellyfish, and keep an eye out for them when swimming. A few resorts, like Poppies Samui, have vinegar stations – clearly marked poles containing big bottles of vinegar.

Beware of coral cuts that are like razor slashes, stepping on sea anemones and being bitten by the few species of venomous fish here, such as the stonefish. The bite of a fish might not seem like much, and the tiny, tiny puncture marks might not seem that serious – but the pain caused can require intravenous morphine over 24 hours.

Other dangerous presences in the water turn out to be ... humans. While you’re swimming carefully in the water, watch out for jet-skis. There are no designated zones. All the driver can see of you is your head. The jet-ski operators have eagle eyes, but the holidaymakers who’re renting jet-skis may be totally new to them. When a jet-ski collides with you, it’s basically the aquatic version of being run over. Fortunately rare on Samui.

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Okay, so this was an article about safety, so we’ve looked at all the worst-case scenarios and covered just about everything nasty that can cause you grief while on holiday. Samui isn’t a vortex of shark-infested waters with typhoons, maelstroms and whirlpools. Neither are there vast armadas of jellyfish with a personal vendetta against you. And you won’t be challenged every ten seconds by a new catastrophe in the making.

Maritime mayhem, it isn’t. There’s no need to be alarmed, just be safety conscious.

Phew! So you’ve had your first dip in the water and you’re up to speed on the principal dangers. Now you go up the beach, wisely seeking shade ‘cos you’re aware of the power of the sun. So now you can lie down and just relax again in the shade of that inviting coconut tree.

And check out those coconuts! Each is as big as a bowling ball... and as heavy too! Now, are they ripe enough to be harvested? Or will they suddenly fall?

Dimitri Waring

TEETH SORTED, WALLET HAPPY Bangkok Samui Dental Clinic can help in all kinds of cases – and it’s very affordable.

Samui is just the place you need when it comes to stretching out on a hammock or spending a languid day by the pool. With its beaches and bars and constant summer feel it’s not the kind of destination you’d immediately associate with state-of-the-art dentistry. And yet, for a growing number of people, Samui really is on the map as the place to improve their smile. Bangkok Samui Dental Clinic offers its patients an extraordinarily wide range of treatments, all of which can be combined with that getaway holiday.

Situated at Bangkok Hospital Samui on the ring-road, south of Chaweng, the dental department is housed in a contemporary suite of treatment rooms overseen by Dr Supaporn Metheethakerng, DDS. A graduate of prestigious Chulalongkorn University, who later trained on the mainland, she has now been at Bangkok Hospital Samui since 2009. She and her team offer superlative treatments that cover an astounding range of dental problems. Whether it’s just a question of fillings or something a lot more complicated, Dr Supaporn and her staff will almost certainly be able to help.

A crucial member of any dental office is a periodontist, and she’s fortunate in having one who is extremely talented; Dr Boonsang Ngamasirimas. He holds an MS in Periodontology, gained while studying in the United Kingdom. He usually works in Bangkok, but flies down every week – and also in emergencies – to look after patients here on Samui. You’ll find him at the dental unit on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

He is an expert in solving problems for people who have what’s commonly called a gummy smile – a surfeit of gum which spoils the smile to say the least. He is able to perform a crown lengthening procedure which effectively corrects the appearance of the mouth and therefore the smile. He also operates Samui’s first laser treatments for this. The procedures can be used to expose more of the teeth, or produce an even gum line. He can also perform osseous re-contouring, and the team can even put back in place teeth that have been knocked out. (Don’t attempt to clean the teeth, however, but bring them to the clinic, preferably in a box of milk.)

As a specialist he also deals with periodontitis and other cases where it’s the gums themselves that are causing problems. Many of these treatments are so costly back at home that the would-be patients can only dread the bill for the work; here in Thailand, it’s all super affordable.

Many patients make initial contact with Dr Supaporn and Dr Boonsang via email, and both are adept at handling enquiries and sorting out possible treatments even before any physical examination has taken place. Appointments can then be scheduled around holidays and visits to Samui. It’d be hard to think of anything more convenient.

A few cases can be so complicated that they can’t be handled on the island, and in these cases the patient is asked to go to Bangkok, to the parent hospital, where the fullest range of treatment is available. But in all but the tiny minority of cases, this isn’t necessary.

For example, even if a patient has been involved in a very bad accident he or she may need an operation (say, to fix a broken jaw) and this can be done at the hospital’s operating theatre on Samui before the dental team get to work.

The office team has an orthodontist, prosthodontist and endodontist as well as a children’s specialist. On-hand interpreters can come to the office within minutes to translate Chinese, Russian, French, Italian and German to Thai, and naturally all the staff speak English.

You may be wondering now what you can have done during a holiday here on Samui. If you’re only here for a day or so, you’ll be able to do a check-up, teeth cleaning and whitening, as well as having routine fillings done. Crowns, bridges, veneers and implants all need more than one appointment, of course. The longest treatments are for implants, as it can take up to six months to allow the tooth to heal before the work can be completed.

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SAMUI’S BEST DETOX Luxury Living Magazine Awards 2015

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The clinic has an excellent reputation, and you can sit back and relax. Each year, a million visitors came to Thailand just for surgery or some kind of treatment. These medical tourists, as they’re known, are taking benefit of the cheaper prices that the country offers along with the very professional teams that work in the hospitals and surgeries here. Dentistry has become a popular reason for coming to Thailand and to Samui. Bangkok Samui Dental Clinic is definitely a professional choice when it comes to sorting out dental problems of all kinds, and better still, recovery time can be spent on some of South-East Asia’s best beaches.

Start your journey to better health and vitality today.

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Dimitri Waring

_______________________________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 7742 9500, ext 2500. email: bshdental@bgh.co.th

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NET

VALUE Even though it’s a world-class tourist destination, Samui still relies very much on its fishing industry.

In the early 60s, when Khun Urai was a little girl living on Samui’s north coast, life was very different to how it is today. “As a kid,” she recalls wistfully, “we used to go down to the beach in the afternoon and start putting together a fire. My parents would be out fishing, and when they returned, we’d cook some of what they’d caught over it, and that would be our dinner.” There weren’t any hotels back then – the first tourists hadn’t yet come to the island, and its heady future wasn’t to start for another decade. Samui depended on its fishing and farming. “There was plenty to go round,” says Khun Urai. “As a child you could wander into anyone’s house in the village – there were no locks – and just help yourself to food. If you took a flashlight and went out on a boat at night and shone it into the sea, the fish would just appear, attracted by the light. The sea was full of fish.” It was an idyllic life, and she grew up with happy memories.

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Something of that way of life still remains, even to this day. Walk along many of the beaches on the island in the early morning, and you’ll see people fishing for their food. In Maenam you’ll find, for example, old people standing utterly still in waist-deep water with home-made fishing rods, waiting for their daily catch. Khun Benjawan, almost 80, throws out a line into the sea and pulls down her lampshade-like hat closer over her face. “Let’s see if I can get something,” she says, but the laugh that goes with her words is tinged by uncertainty. “We’re all worried about fishing. Fewer fish now. Things aren’t the same.” She’s momentarily distracted by the loud whine of a longtail boat going past, and then her eyes go back to the sea with casual determination. The longtails have a car engine mounted on the back, and from the engine a long manoeuvrable pole sticks out with a propeller on the end. The boatman stands up the entire time he’s riding the waves, and manoeuvres the boat

by moving the propeller. It requires great strength. He’ll go out to sea, throw out a net and trawl the waters for a catch that he’ll sell to families and restaurants. So far, so idyllic.

But these traditional ways of fishing are swamped by the commercial interests that now predominate. Everything on Samui has become more commercial, and that includes the fishing. The industry has become ever more important on Samui, even though the main earner is now tourism.

With more than a million visitors coming to the island every year, and with an enormously increased population, not just of locals, but also expatriates from every corner of the globe, the pressure’s on to land enough fish to feed a demanding populace. And not just on Samui or even Thailand; the country is the third-biggest exporter of fish and fish products in the world. Thai exports are worth more than a chunky seven

billion dollars a year, and Thailand is avidly trying to export even more.

Only China still beats Thailand, seconded by Norway.

Night time, and a few kilometres west of Koh Tao, Khun Somsak has been tracking the shifting movements on his sonar, and exasperatedly moves on further from the shore, looking for shoals of fish. He’s not alone, and around him other boats are doing the same, chasing after fish that aren’t so much elusive, but just aren’t there at all due to over-fishing.

Khun Somsak uses, as all the boats around him do, very powerful lights that shine down through the water to attract the fish. The view from the shore of Koh Tao is impressive. There are so many lights it looks like there’s an entire town strung out on the horizon. Many holidaymakers just presume that they’re looking at the mainland, and are surprised at how densely populated it is. They’re even more surprised to find out that the

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phantom town they believe they’re looking at is in reality just countless fishing boats out to sea.

There’s no let-up in the competition to catch fish, and just to break even is getting harder every year. And though the country continues, as a whole, to be successful, it’s hard for the individual boat-owners to bring in a profitable catch. Well over 1,000 kg of fish is needed by operators like Khun Somsak just to keep their operation going.

Morning in the small fishing port of Nathon. Small clusters of fishing boats have returned to moor up here, one against the other. It’s all go. It’s been a good night for most, reckons one of the captains, and the overall atmosphere seems upbeat. And what about the coming night? “Same,” he says and flashes a smile. “Maybe.”

Large amounts of ice are being poured into the holds of the boats, while crewmembers go about the business of cleaning the fish and the decks.

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Everything’s done with casual but breath-taking speed. Cramped tightly together, the crews on each boat are a tight choreography of intent and dexterity, unloading the night’s catch and mopping up. There are always nets to repair and equipment to check. Life at sea is busy – even when you get back to land. To the untrained eye, everything seems to be happening simultaneously, and the next step in the process has already long since started. There’s an urgency to sort all the fish, weigh them and sell them.

A lot of the sorted fish will end up in the island’s markets, where they’ll be sold individually or bought by hotels and restaurants. Everyone here at the port is an old hand, and knows that freshness is the main concern for everyone. Samui’s restaurants are renowned for their fresh fish, and since this is an island, the diners expect nothing less. The next step is to load up the trucks and take the fish to the market.

B a r g e & Te r r a c e

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Rice Barge & Terrace Nora Buri's Signature Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: ricebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com

As the island heads into the future, there’s more and more talk about letting the seas restock, and having stricter controls concerning what’s fished, when and in what quantity. Meanwhile, visit any market – go to the fish market at Big Buddha for example, or the large market at Laem Din in Chaweng – and you’ll see there’s still more than enough for everyone. Seafood remains incredibly popular on Samui, and some restaurants are now demanding that the fish that gets to them has been correctly caught by legal boats that carry crew that are licensed.

Consumers, too, are also concerned. After all, where would Samui be without its seafood restaurants?

Dimitri Waring Nora Buri's Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: ricebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com

HEAVENLY CELES A look at one of Samui’s finest new restaurants – Sea Grille at Celes Beachfront Resort.

They come in all shapes and sizes. Some are large and some are small.

You’ll find them on the mountain top and down by the sea. In fact, on Samui, they’re everywhere. But that’s where things get tricky – it’s not an easy job to pick out a really first class restaurant. And that’s why Celes is so exciting.

Celes Beachfront Resort is possibly Samui’s newest top-end offering, having had its official opening only a handful of months ago. And its crisp, bright styling had tongues wagging right away. Located on the ring-road in Bophut, its small, discrete and very refined frontage gives no hint of what’s inside.

Wandering through the winding walkways, the atmosphere is instantly Mediterranean. The white-walled villas are dripping with colourful greenery, with black iron railings on the balconies, swathes of warm timber cladding and a range of roof styles that are cool and geometric.

And their very exclusive beachfront villas are some of the most beautiful you’ll see anywhere.

Following the path to the right brings you to Sea Grille, the resort’s very laid-back signature restaurant. There’s definitely an element of minimalism in the overall scheme of things at Celes, and Sea Grille is no exception.

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KAYAKING Explore the caves and beaches of the Angthong National Marine Park Offices located behind Bondi Pub in central Chaweng and on Chaweng Lake Road opposite Lake View For reservations please call 0 7730 0615 or 0 878 866 097

www.bluestars.info

It’s one huge, light and airy space, with a vaulted ceiling that features a warmly-slatted-wood section. Two whole walls are of glass, sectioned so that they can be opened, either to the side or directly onto a terrace overlooking the sea.

The best way to describe this restaurant is to say that it’s finedining, laid-back, informal, and with no pretensions. Most of the meat and several seafood items are specially imported (grain-fed beef from Australia, Australian Wagyu, Kurobuta pork, Norwegian salmon). The menu is Thai and International. But when you decide to ‘go Thai’, then the same quality applies, with your spicy soup coming with chunks of succulent sea bass. And the famous ‘pad Thai’ will arrive built around fresh king prawns, not the pre-frozen shrimp you’ll often get.

One of the most popular items is Sea Grille’s signature dish, the ‘Rad Na Sirloin’. The words ‘rad na’ are well-known in Thailand, and refer to a special sauce that usually comes as a juice or topping for noodle dishes. But out on the street you’ll never see it like this! Here it comes with chunks of Australian prime sirloin, stir-fried rice noodles and kale. Executive Chef, Khun Raden, has

applied his special magic to the sauce. And in this presentation, and this setting, this is a ‘rad na’ dish like no other!

Most tropical restaurants take on a totally different feeling after dark – the carefully arranged lighting creates an altogether different ambiance.

But Sea Grille is one of the few that doesn’t. It’s just as nice in the daytime: cool, fresh and relaxing. And it’s a perfect setting to partake of ‘Afternoon Tea’. This is one of those afternoon delights that re-creates the languid glories of empires past – a wickedly delicious array of cakes, raisin-scones, cream-buns, cheesecakes, macaroons and tiny little triangle sandwiches, all enticingly presented on a three-tier cake stand, along with your choice of tea or coffee.

There are two sets, each priced for a couple (although a third person can be easily accommodated). The only real difference between the two is that the ‘Premium Set’ has probably twice the variation and quantity of the simpler ‘Classic Set’. And you can opt to enjoy this any time between 2:00 pm and 5:30 pm, inside the restaurant or out on the terrace under a sun shade.

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Finally – yet another little gem. Sea Grille has been making something of a name for itself when it comes to private dining on the beach (or even on the terrace, if you prefer). This entails a romantically-canopied ‘sala’, candle-lit and with flowers, beautifully laid-out with silver service. The ‘Private Dining’ is available between the hours of 6:00 pm and 10:00 pm And if you just want to have a quiet night in, for the ultimate indulgence you can request your very own private chef to cook dinner for you in the comfort of your villa. Reservations are highly recommended for both this and the Private Dining!

Rob De Wet

____________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7790 0999. www.celesresorts.com

MUAY MUDDLE!

There are two Thai boxing stadiums in Chaweng – let’s straighten out the online muddle.

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There are two Thai boxing stadiums on Samui, but if you try to book online, then you’re in for some fun. Firstly they’re both in Chaweng. They’re both about ‘Muay Thai’ boxing. And they both get their actual names abbreviated, as they’re too long to say in full. And then you can add the fact that there’s a whole bunch of stuff online that’s years out of date – a lot of websites refer to a third stadium which disappeared years ago, not to mention that many people refer to Petbuncha as ‘Chaweng Stadium’.

To clarify things: there’s ‘Samui International Muay Thai Stadium’, just off Chaweng Beach Road (the way in is close to the landmark of ‘The Islander’ pub. And then there’s ‘Petbuncha Samui Stadium’ that’s over by the end of Chaweng Lake, next to Laem Din market. And if you need further proof how confusing all the various variations of these names are, a close look at TripAdvisor shows that about half of the reviews for each are from people who think they are in the other stadium!

Anyway, once inside, the content – what you’ll see and how it’s presented – is just about identical. I’ll only point out one glaring difference: in one (and I don’t dare say which) Thai people get in free and have an exclusive little area only for Thais. If you happen to go with a Thai girlfriend or a Thai family, you won’t be allowed to sit with them. You’ll have to sit on your own, away in the paying seats.

The art of Thai boxing, Muay Thai, is an ancient one, and in the past (before the internationally popular MMA (Mixed Martial Arts) appeared on the scene) was considered to be not just superior to boxing, but deadly also. Its exponents use knees and elbows as well as fists, and kicks are an essential part of the discipline. It’s Thailand’s national sport and, as such, young boys (and now even girls) train fiercely and with commitment from a very early age.

And, hardly surprising considering that this sport is so ancient, there’s a great deal of ritual attached to it – although many would insist that this is merely historical, and the true heart of Muay Thai is in its spiritual engagement, rather than the showy presentation.

Before each fight, a small orchestra of musicians present ‘sarama’ – a rhythmic and atonal mix of sounds produced by two kind of oboe-like pipes plus drums and cymbals. There’s no melody; the idea is to create the right mood for the fighters to focus fully. And during the fight the tempo rises and falls, with a great deal of frantic improvisation and clashing of cymbals, designed to stimulate both fighters to engage with more determination.

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Although, before this all starts to happen, both fighters will lull themselves into a mental and spiritual calm. They undergo several minutes of ritual, each in their own part of the ring, to ward off evil spirits and secure protection from good spirits, backed up by the mystical power of their headbands and amulets. Then they’ll perform the ‘Wai Khru Ram Muay’, to honour this ancient art, and pay respect to their trainer, by circling the ring three times before kneeling and bowing three times as a sign of respect to Buddha, before going through a personal but symbolic dance to demonstrate their prowess to their opponent and the audience.

To check this all out for myself, I went along to the Samui International Muay Thai Stadium, on the main Chaweng Beach Road – simply because they are not the ones who are responsible for those infuriating loudspeaker vans which run endlessly around Chaweng. This venue underwent a complete refurbishment last December, and the new entrance and foyer would not be out of place in a high-class hotel.

There are three pricing bands: 1,500 baht for standing (or sitting on the steps), 2,000 baht for the mid-range tiered seats, and 2,500 baht for the ringside VIP seats (with tables and waitress service). A tip here right away: the VIP seats are actually below the floor-level of the ring and you’ll get a far better view from higher up.

The format is that the first fights of the night are between the youngsters – often some very young ones – and boy do they have some go in them! This will lead into bouts between Thai fighters, and end up with the international fights at the end. Usually these are the fiercest, as the completive spirit between Thais and foreigners is strong! The bouts start a little after 9:00 pm and go on until quite late.

It’s all become a bit of a tourist trap, with ‘tours’ being offered and concessions being handed out down the line and expensive drinks prices. (Note: go in person to the stadium and save money on your booking.) But . . . what you’ll see is in no way diminished by this. It’s the real thing. Booking it might be a bit of a ‘Muay Muddle’, but it’s all well worth it!

Rob De Wet

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MORE THAN JUST BIG TEETH! The Samui Crocodile Farm is interesting and entertaining – and it’s right next to Chaweng.

Everybody has a different outlook. Some people come here to take a break. Some to relax. Others can’t stand the beach, and run around for a week. But, happily, there’s lots to do on Samui. Trips, excursions, golf, water sports, Thai boxing, waterfalls, mountain views, rocks shaped like genitals and mummified monks wearing Ray Bans – and that just for starters. And when you’ve slowed down a bit, there’s the Samui Crocodile Farm.

This attraction has been going for almost 20 years now, and still continues to draw the crowds. In a way it’s not very well-named: but to trying to call it the ‘Samui Crocodile Farm, Crocodile Show, Snake Show and Zoo’ doesn’t really work too well. But there’s certainly a lot more to look at than just crocodiles.

The grounds are really quite big; 8,000 square metres is impressive.

And it’s all attractively laid out, with lots of shady trees and bushes and vegetation. There are several different ‘croc basins’, each of them walled around the outside, and within this there’s a deep pond with a higher concrete rim. These basins are filled with lilies and overhung with drooping trees, affording both shade and plenty of space. In fact I have

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to say, after having seen many sad and depressing zoos in Asia, that this is one of the most thoughtful and sympathetic layouts that I’ve seen.

And scattered around between and to one side of the basins are tanks, cages, corners and little ‘houses’ and huts where the rest of the ‘family’ resides. Some of the more cuddly members are racoons, rabbits, mouse deer, monkeys and slow lorises. But then they’re not so far away from several kinds of colourful parrots and birds, iguanas and lizards, and even a pond full of otters. And then there are the snakes.

I don’t know what it is in the cosmic consciousness of mankind but, faced with a crocodile and a snake, the crocodile will bring people to a halt in awed fascination, whereas a snake will send everyone running away shrieking every time – it must be something in our genes. There are a variety of different snakes here, ranging from the luminous green (and harmless) tree snakes through to genuine cobras, each kept in their own separate enclosures. I think the fascination comes from being in such close proximity to these creatures (although being also perfectly safe) and being able to study them closely – which is a thing that would never happen if you opened the bathroom door and found one inside!

There are also two spacious ‘show’ areas, covered over and with tiered concrete seating ledges around the outside, one for the crocodile show and the other for the cobra show. These two shows alternate every hour between 12:00 noon and 5:00 pm. As an adult I found myself wondering about just how aware the crocodiles actually were when the Thai staff were putting their heads and arms into the croc’s mouths, and cuddling them like huge scaly babies. But, absolutely, every single child present was frozen, wide-eyed, by the sight.

The same goes for the snakes, too. The cobras. And this is interesting.

When I lived in Bangkok, I discovered I had a cobra living under my house. Every morning it would come and sit in a corner on my terrace.

After a while, I quietly sat in a chair on the other side of the balcony.

The cobra would rear up, and then settle down again. After a week or two, it didn’t even do that. So I used to put a saucer of milk in its corner, and the two of us would sit there as the sun came up. My point: all but perhaps two species of cobras are generally very quiet and gentle creatures unless they feel threatened or cornered.

And so when I watched the Thai ‘trainers’ here performing with the cobras, I’m reminded of this. They work gently and slowly with their

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snakes. And, even, once or twice a day, they demonstrate that the cobras are still venomous by extracting the venom into a wineglass. (Having said that, all the snake-trainers have been bitten numerous times, so nothing is ever certain!)

If you want some amusement, then read the comments on TripAdvisor, and try to spot the completely out-of-touch remarks or the idiotic Western mind-sets. ‘It’s so smelly’. The water was filthy’.

‘It’s inhuman.’ ‘They’re not in their natural habitat’. Then pause to think if swamps and humid tropical everglades are clean and sanitary and hygienic. Or if the dead meat that crocodiles eat is likely to arrive in plastic-wrapped packs from the supermarket.

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