FULL MOON RISING A look at how Koh Pha-Ngan’s Full Moon Party has evolved over the last 25 years!
INK UP! Getting a tattoo on Samui could be the best souvenir of your holiday.
A Warm Welcome
Editor
Graeme Malley graeme@siammap.com
Graphic Designer Preeda Tuajob - Pui
Photographer
Akaphon Phongninlaarphon - Don
Feature Writer Rob De Wet
Feature Writer Dimitri Waring
Feature Writer Karan Ladd
Webmaster
Seksak Kerdkanno - Klauy
Sales & Marketing Director Nipawan Chuaysagul - Ning 0 898 783 891
ning@siammap.com
Financial Director
Kasper Bjørk kasper@siammap.com
Managing Director Henrik Bjørk henrik@siammap.com
And we wish you a very prosperous New Year! Living here on this sunshine island, it hardly seems a moment since the last one. But if you’ve been planning, thinking and looking forward to coming here – away from the sleet and snow – then it’s no doubt taken forever to arrive. You’ll need a little luck, though. We’re now in the tail end of the rainy season, so it’s probably 50-50 sun and showers, but at least it’s warm. That’s the best thing; you’ll never need scarves and gloves on Samui! Many people feel that these few months at the beginning of the year are a great time to come here. The hustle and bounce of Christmas and the New Year is over, the weather is good and if you’re here in February, then there’s a double treat to enjoy. The spectacular and colourful processions of the Chinese New Year will tour the streets on the 16th. Look out for this in Nathon, Maenam and Hua Thanon. And then there’s also the most romantic day of the year on the 14th . . . but we don’t need to explain much about that, do we? So, with that, we’ll quietly bow-out, and seal this greeting with a kiss!
Siam Map Company Ltd.
52/6 Samui Ring Road, Moo 3 Bo Phut, Koh Samui, 84320, Thailand Tel: 0 7742 2201 Fax: 0 7741 3523 E-mail: info@siammap.com www.siammap.com
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Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial content in any manner is prohibited without written permision from Siam Map Company Ltd. While every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this publication, Siam Map Company Ltd. assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions. Neither is any liability for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein. Siam Map Company Ltd. 2018
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CONTENTS
16 Full Moon Rising A look at how Koh Pha-Ngan’s Full Moon Party has evolved over the last 25 years!
24 Out Of The Box Psylo’s full spectrum of clothing offers a fresh take on urban wear.
32 The Year Of The Dog The story of Chinese New Year and what goes on behind the scenes.
58 Because You’re Worth It!
Discover new ideas and inspiration at Loft by Oriental Living.
Nature Art Gallery’s three stores will mesmerize you with their wealth of jewellery and semiprecious stones.
52 Not In The Hot Seat Don’t want to drive, or ride a motorcycle? There are other ways of getting around Samui.
As Good As It Gets The New Nordic Group’s performance and reputation offers investment and ownership opportunities that are very hard to beat.
64 Interior Design 98
Always Worth Seeing Don’t miss out on Nathon and its environs.
70
Temple Thoughts Be aware of the rules when visiting a Buddhist temple in Thailand.
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Nurturing each light brightly – at SCL International School.
46 Treasure Trio
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Satisfaction guaranteed at Paul’s Fashion.
38 The Learning Curve
104
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46
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quality and service, but lifestyle events too!
Enjoy the Mediterranean delights of The Cliff Bar & Grill - fine food and drink, impeccable service and great views.
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Health Haven
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loss and wellness.
It’s Make Or Break Time Again! New Year resolutions are an admirable thing, but what are they really all about?
W = Wow! W Koh Samui leads the way with not just top
Mediterranean Medley
Health Republic raises the bar for detox, weight
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A Swim In The Park The Angthong National Marine Park, one of the treasures of Thailand.
Ink Up! Getting a tattoo on Samui could be the best souvenir of your holiday.
BEACHFRONT DINING & COCKTAILS RockPool at Kanda Residences is a spectacular beachfront restaurant and bar situated just five minutes from Chaweng
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Chaweng
Chaweng’s main beach is five kilometres in length and is lined with 5-star luxury resorts, boutique hotels, budget accommodation and great oceanfront restaurants. Behind the resorts, the Chaweng Beach Road is filled with restaurants, bars, spas, shops, street stalls and mobile food vendors. The lake sits to the rear of them and is a wonderful place for an early morning walk or jog. Near the southern end of the lake is the Soi Reggae entertainment area which also has two Muay Thai boxing stadiums, a temple guarded by carved monkeys and the huge Laem Din market complex. All manner of fresh produce is delivered here every day and the adjoining Dow Seafood market is a hive of activity from the early hours.
Lamai
Samui’s second most popular beach is around four kilometres long and the waters are perfect for swimming. There’s plenty of choice in accommodation, restaurants, bars, spas and health resorts. It also has a free Muay Thai event every Saturday and just off the Beach Road there’s a children’s water park. Wat Lamai is home to a cultural centre and museum that houses artifacts of Samui life before the advent of tourism. On Sundays there’s a ‘Walking Street’ along part of the Beach Road. And just outside of Lamai town on the ring-road is the famous Hin Ta-Hin Yai rock formations that has dozens of small local Thai restaurants around it. 10 l www.samuiholiday.com
Mae Nam
Nestled on the northern shores of the island, Mae Nam Beach stretches for several kilometres and overlooks the neighbouring island of Koh Pha-Ngan. High-end resorts and beach bungalows are dotted along the coast and many visitors love it for its peacefulness, soft golden sands and wonderful views. It has seven side streets that meander into the mountains: from Soi 1 you can follow the road over the mountains all the way to Lamai; Soi 4 has a ‘Walking Street’ every Thursday from mid-afternoon and also houses an ornate Chinese temple overlooking the beach and a large Buddhist temple set a few hundred metres back from the ringroad; Soi 5 has a tree-top canopy adventure theme park a few kilometres into the hills; there’s a buffalo fighting stadium a couple of hundred metres off the main road between Soi 5 and Soi 6; an early morning market is also in Soi 6; an evening market near to Soi 7; and the world-class Santiburi Golf Course in the hills above Soi 7. There’re dozens of bars and restaurants in Mae Nam, many of which are on side roads that lead down to the ocean. And at the western end of the beach the Lomprayah ferry takes passengers to the neighbouring islands several times a day.
Island Insight An overall guide to Samui’s towns, villages, beaches and hotspots.
Samui is an idyllic tropical paradise. A blend of traditional Thai hospitality and remote island life has joined hands with modern traveller expectations. But the towns, villages and interior are home to much more than just luxury resorts, restaurants, bars and retail shops. And whilst the main beaches are recognised as some of the best in the world, there are also secluded coves and magical hideaways around many corners – if you know where to look. And this quick guide will point you in the right direction.
NathoN
This is the island’s main administrative centre and the major ferry port for boats to and from the mainland. There’re some hotels but it’s more a town you would visit for an afternoon rather than stay in. Beside the terminal, there’s a local food market every day from mid-afternoon until late in the evening. Along what is known as the ‘middle road’ there’re old teak shop-houses and small businesses and a ‘Walking Street’ on Saturdays. And on the one-way road that goes through the town there’re dozens of shops and restaurants. Just off the main road there’s an ornate Chinese temple and garden in Soi 4. And near the far end there’s a renowned open-air duck restaurant – just follow the crowds around lunchtime.
Bo Phut
Bo Phut is best known for Fisherman’s Village. It’s a single narrow street that still has authentic wooden houses that Samui folk have lived in for generations. Parts of it have been modernized but it’s still awash with local foods, international restaurants, bars, shops and market stalls. It becomes one huge ‘Walking Street’ every Friday and you’ll find lots of local delicacies that few other restaurants have. Along with small hotels, there’re several 5-star luxury resorts at the far end and the beach curves around a large bay that also overlooks Koh Pha-Ngan. And small speedboats leave from the village pier heading for the Full Moon parties that take place there every month.
Big Buddha and Plai Laem
The magnificent golden Big Buddha statue that watches over the island from the north-east corner of Samui is one of the first things you see as you fly into Samui Airport. Built on a tiny island (Koh Farn) with a connecting causeway, it’s the most iconic image of the island. Many Thais pray at the temple so dressing and acting appropriately is expected when you enter the site. There’re some very good Thai restaurants and small stores around the temple. It also affords some beautiful views and along the road from it you’ll see another large Buddha image at Wat Plai Laem. Half-way along the road between the temples is a side road that cuts through to Choeng Mon. Down this road there’s access to some quiet secluded beaches, although some of them are through resorts.
Choeng Mon
Choeng Mon lies just 15 minutes or so from the middle of Chaweng but it seems like worlds away. There’s a small town that the road runs through with a couple of dozen restaurants and bars. The beach is a favourite for many locals as it’s quiet, picturesque and safe for swimming most of the year round. There’s every class of accommodation with some old-style beach bungalows at one end. And they all overlook the tiny deserted island of Koh Farn Noi which you can walk out to if the tide is low.
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Bang Rak
In between Fisherman’s Village and Big Buddha is where you’ll find Bang Rak. There’s a few very good resorts and some private villas for rent along the beachfront that stretches around for several kilometres and has stunning views. Bars and restaurants line the main street and there’re two piers. The one nearest to Big Buddha has daily ferries to Koh Pha-Ngan, Koh Tao and on to the mainland port of Chumpon, from which a VIP bus takes passengers to Hua Hin and on to Bangkok. Start to finish, it’s a 12-hour journey with about half of it on the boat. Just beside the ferry terminal in Bang Rak is one of the busiest fish markets on the island. Local fishermen drop their catches here and the place is bustling with people all day long. At the other end of town there’s a short-cut into Chaweng on a road called Soi Bond Kai (which the locals refer to as the ‘Ghost Road’).
Taling Ngam and Lipa Noi
The south-west part of the island is known as the ‘Virgin Coast’. It’s largely unspoiled with lots of secluded bays, although most of the shoreline tends to be rocky. The west coast overlooks the famous ‘five islands’ and some of the closer islands of the Angthong National Marine Park (which is a perfect getaway for a day’s boat trip excursion). In this part of the island there’re some hotels, private villas for rent, up-market and local restaurants and several temples of note, including two that house a mummified monk. A second car ferry terminal is located in Lipa Noi and, like the one in Nathon, boats to and from Donsak on the mainland arrive and depart every hour from 5:00 am until 6:00 pm (check for details). And inland on the island’s main ring-road there’re several large waterfall sites and a safari park with elephant trekking, animal shows and adventure tours. Further along, next to the Ford and Mazda dealers is a new Butterfly and Insect Kingdom Park.
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Hua Thanon
This predominately muslim village is home to the descendants of some of the island’s earliest settlers. There’s still a thriving fishing fleet and fish market and a natural coastline that’s survived the ravages of time. Just after the village (coming from Lamai) you can turn off the ring-road to the left and signs will direct you to the nearby Tiger Zoo, Aquarium and Sea-life Show, the Butterfly Farm, the Snake Farm and the local Rum Distillery.
Thong Krut
With its brightly coloured fishing boats and backdrop of small islands to the one side, and coconut plantations to the other, Thong Krut is a picturesque little village. Located in the southwest corner of the island, this is where you’ll come if you’re after a long-tail boat to take you to the nearby islands of Koh Tan and Koh Matsum. Lining the shore you’ll find a selection of simple restaurants offering Thai food, and particularly good seafood, as well as tour operators offering trips to the islands.
The Interior
Samui predominately consists of hills, mountains and coconut plantations. And few visitors make the time to appreciate its hidden beauty. One way to do so is to take the turning into Mae Nam Soi 1. A new road has recently been constructed that goes over the mountains all the way to Lamai. The drive is only about 20-25 minutes over 15 kilometres with a couple of stopping off areas that offer fabulous views. Another way to really get the full picture of Samui is from Tar Nim’s Magic Garden at the top of one of the island’s highest peaks. Built during a 25-year period by a local farmer the stone statues in the garden were sculpted by hand and sit over 2,000 feet above the beaches below.
FULL MOON RISING A look at how Koh Pha-Ngan’s Full Moon Party has evolved over the last 25 years!
This party has become a legend the world over. And like all legends, its origins are shrouded in something of a mystery. A couple of minutes on Google will come up with all sorts of stuff - it began with a bunch of hippies wanting a quiet smoke and some music to crash to; it was someone’s birthday party; someone’s going away party; it was triggered by parties happening on Samui; some French people started it; some Israelis started it – it’s anybody’s guess how it really began.
about what didn’t happen. It wasn’t any sort of organised event. And it didn’t emerge from a series of small parties that slowly got bigger – not at that time anyway. In 1988, there was nothing on the grapevine about parties, no mention of them on the regular boat, no buzz in the restaurants or on the beach, no signs or notices anywhere, nothing written in travellers comment books or on guesthouse notice boards anywhere on Samui or Pha-Ngan.
But if you talk to people who actually live there, in the region of Haad Rin Beach on Koh Pha-Ngan, they’ll tell a different tale, and it’s more
The hundreds of people inputting to Lonely Planet made no reference to any kind of beach parties in 1990. But two years later, in 1992, the first
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mentions of parties at the height of the full moon had already begun to appear. Initially two (still existing) small bungalow resorts competed with each other, drawing a regular crowd to Haad Rin at the full moon. Other beachside bungalows joined in, keen to cash-in on the sudden influx of all-night customers. And when this event reached some kind of critical mass, it morphed into one big party, sometime in 1993.
to Koh Samui, with a spur that also fed Pha-Ngan. But by that time the Full Moon Parties had already become notorious enough to attract mainstream attention: not only had the local police begin regular raids by 1994, but all of this was also described in the Bangkok Post of that year. And then, the following year, Lonely Planet started to include the event as a regular feature.
Another crucial aspect was at the hub of all this: in the mid-1990s, Koh Pha-Ngan suddenly acquired a stable electricity supply, due to a second and larger underwater power cable being run from the mainland
You’ve got to keep a couple of things in mind, though, as in those days it was a vastly different set-up from the now-commercialised, well-organised and well-policed event that happens today. In those days there was just
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one small boat that acted as a daytime ferry, running back and forth between Samui and Haad Rin. There were no boats after dark. But it was a big event, and the Samui speedboats and tour agents were quick to supply their services. As a result all manner of overcrowded small vessels, mostly with no lifejackets, went back and forth until the last boats at midnight. There was no way of getting back to Samui until more boats appeared the next morning.
And what’s it all really about? Well it all depends on what age you are. If you’re younger than the Full Moon Party itself, then it’s something of a rite of passage; a thing that just has to be done before you become dull, straight and adult. If you’re old and gnarly, though, at worst you’ll curse the debauchery of it all, and at best you’ll smile tolerantly, remembering the crazy things that you got up to when the world was still new, and next year was a lifetime away.
And then there was the out-of-control drug-scene, compounded sometimes by rogue police officers who were happy to plant substances on stoned partygoers, in order to extract a spot fine. Turf wars between rival Thai gangs sprang up, with violence and gunshots being woven into the scene. The death toll of gangsters and young people grew alarmingly, with rarely a month going by without the news of someone drowning, being accidentally shot, or wandering off into the jungle in a haze, not to be found for a couple of days. And then there were the overcrowded speedboats: at least once a year there was another bad accident. And yet young people from all over the world continued to flock there in their growing thousands every month.
And then you’ll ponder on what once was a quiet little Thai beach with nothing idyllic about it anymore – the devastating litter and mess and the thousands of aching bones and crashing headaches that the next day will bring, along with the millions of dollars being gleefully banked every year. But if you’re not old enough to know better, then the Full Moon Party is the best – and it probably always will be!
Happily today the story is quite different. It’s now widely-known that drugs are not to be tolerated, the police and rescue services are stationed with bases on the beach at regular intervals, and there are medical teams on standby should they be needed. The shuttle speedboats not only run throughout the night, but need to be licenced and are regularly inspected for safety. The cash-fuelled feeding-frenzy of 20 years ago has gone, to be replaced by all the machinery of a very slick commercial venture. It’s not only the beach and the restaurants that benefit, but the whole island in one way or another. The majority of the 30,000 partygoers stay for several nights (mostly where prices are lower, away from Haad Rin), often for a lot longer, renting accommodation and transport, using taxis, shopping locally for clothes, jewellery, souvenirs and mementos and making the most of the convenience stores, bars and restaurants across the island.
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Rob De Wet
OUT OF THE BOX Psylo’s full spectrum of clothing offers a fresh take on urban wear.
As a clothing store, Psylo steps right away from the predictability of mainstream fashion, and has succeeded in doing something pleasingly different. Using a palette of mostly earth colours, clothing is designed with a heady mix of different, often mythical, patterns and motifs, along with the occasional retro touch and more than a nod to south-east Asian influences. It’s clothing to be worn every day, but above all it’s imbued with a chic, laid-back vibe, and is suitable for just about any kind of occasion, anywhere.
round on lightweight, summery materials – Psylo follow the seasons in the west, and the clothing is in sync with that; if it’s winter in Europe and North America then you’ll find winter clothing in the store here.
One of the main challenges Psylo has faced, is to find durable materials that will stand the test of time. Never restricting or uncomfortable, the designs are carefully crafted, and new ones appear every season. Unlike much of the clothing you’ll see in stores on Samui, the focus isn’t year
Psylo also produce fashion for children. Kids enjoy wearing clothes that are individualistic and quite different to what they’re used to. In addition, the clothing is wear-and-tear proof, looks good and gets a thumbs-up from the wearers as well as the parents.
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You might think that this style of clothing is only bought by young people, but Psylo turns out to be popular with all ages, young and old. Complementing the clothes, Psylo rolls out a pleasing array of belts, bags, wristbands and footwear, including an impressive range of boots.
Psylo is located on Chaweng Beach Road, just north of Central Festival, and is open daily from 11:00 am until 11:00 pm, and the store has just been totally refurbished and enlarged. There are also other Psylo stores located in London, Bali and Mexico.
minimizing both wastage and pollution. They use organic and natural materials whenever and wherever they can. For example, they use 100% organic cotton or organic cotton mixed with bamboo. You’ll also still find that polyester and spandex are used for elasticity and strength.
The clothes themselves are produced in Bali, from Psylo’s own factory, which is run by local Balinese staff. Psylo, incidentally, believes in fair, regulated and above board working conditions – it’s a place where employees are happy to work. The company is also into environmental concerns: wherever possible natural fabrics are chosen, including cottons and some silks. Recycled materials are also used, right down to individual scraps of material. Their dyes are water-based, and go through various filtering systems before entering the sewage system, thus
The company hasn’t gone for large scale industrial production, along with all the waste that goes with bulk garment making, even if that would entail making heftier profits. Both design and production are kept on a more idealistic footing, with the idea of sustainability figuring even in the manufacture of accessories. Take the example of some of Psylo’s belts. They appear to be made out of leather, but take a closer look and you’ll see that they’re actually rubber. And not even new rubber, but motorbike tyres that have been upcycled then given a special new finish.
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Psylo and its clothing are a by-product of travels. Owner-manager Joel Nagar says that he and his friends travelled everywhere, from the Amazon, to India and then all over Asia. They were inspired by what they saw, and instead of merely keeping it all on film, like most of us would, they flipped it around and turned it into clothing. They became very committed to keeping to themes that were inspired by those nomadic days. The brand is becoming ever more popular, and Psylo has blossomed since its early days, helped by its helpful and informative website (you can of course make purchases through it, should you not be able to get to the store itself). With each garment individually hand-made and hand-printed, Psylo represents not just great quality but great value for money. And just because this is a cutting edge brand, it certainly doesn’t mean pretentious prices; Psylo is surprisingly affordable. With all the feel and quality of expert craftsmanship, and creative clothing, it’s not surprising that people are making a beeline for this earthy yet urban store.
Dimitri Waring
____________________________________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 7725 6157 or 0 879 288 748. www.psylofashion.com
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THE YEAR OF THE DOG The story of Chinese New Year and what goes on behind the scenes.
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All Westerners know exactly what their New Year is all about – a good night out, lots of drinks and fun, and with everyone going crazy when the clock strikes midnight! Yes, sure, there’s the idea of New Year’s resolutions, too. But apart from that, the whole thing is just a good reason for a party. But it’s not the same with the Chinese. Their thinking about this occasion is complex, saturated with ritual and actually goes on for a total of 15 days. Because it’s based on the lunar calendar, every new year begins on a different day, at that point in the month when the moon is at its darkest. It then runs until the moon is full, 15 days later. And this year’s celebration is set to kick-off on the 16th of February. However, to most of us in the West, we’re only usually aware of one particular day, and that’s the one when the Chinese community have their colourful procession around the streets. This is the first day of the Chinese traditional calendar for the year – although in actual fact, where there are large Chinese communities such as, say, San Francisco, the street parties spread into a second day. But what most of us don’t realise is that, for up to a month before this day, there’s lots been going on already behind the scenes. We all know about spring cleaning. Keep this in your mind, as it’s partly what the preparations for the Chinese New Year are about. But unlike us, there’s far more significance and true ritual at the heart of it all. The Chinese are deep believers in the power of their ancestors, and of both good and bad spirits; this runs through their entire celebration, as you’re about to find out! The month before the first day of the new year is when people start buying presents, and paper and material for decorations, and also food and clothing. A huge clean-up gets underway, and houses are scrubbed from top to bottom to sweep away every possible hint of bad luck or disappointment from the old year. Doors and window frames are often given a new coat of paint, and then decorated with scripts of proverbs about happiness, wealth and long life.
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Whereas all this is happening behind closed doors, there’s one aspect that you’ll most certainly spot – festoons of big, colourful red and gold lanterns, banners and bunting will appear, strung between the buildings, high above the streets. The focus will be on the main streets where the later procession is to pass, although it’s a point of pride for the Chinese community that all the families in the little side streets join in too. And then, there’s nothing to look at until the morning of the 16th February. And that’s when the ‘Nian’ is enthusiastically kept away once more! The legend is that a mythical beast, the Nian, would appear on the first day of the new year, and devour whatever it could find; cattle, crops, even little children. People tried to distract it by putting out food and gifts, but to no avail. But one year, the Nian saw a child dressed in red and was frightened away. Thus the following year, the villagers were draped in red and had red lanterns everywhere, and prepared themselves with loud fireworks and firecrackers. The Nian took one look and fled, never to be seen again. And this is what the street procession is all about – frightening away the bad sprits, whilst summoning and welcoming the good ones. The noise and shouting, the drumming and the gongs and the huge, bobbing manpowered dragons and lions – everything in red and gold – winds its way from door to door, stopping at each to exchange tokens and bless the 36 l www.samuiholiday.com
household. As each household is visited, one or more of their members join the procession and add to the numbers. But after all the shouting has died away, the observances still continue. Daily prayers are said. Visits to neighbours and friends are in order, along with the customary exchange of goodwill and gifts. Sacrifices are made to the ancestors, uniting the living with those who have passed away. Finally, 15 days after Nian, and on the occasion of the approaching full moon, the end of the New Year is marked by the gentle Festival of Lanterns. There are several main places to go to on Samui, to enjoy this spectacle: the hardest part is finding somewhere to park! Nathon is the best, with the procession dominating the older middle road. Maenam is harder: their Chinese temple is right in the middle of the U-shape that forms walking street, with parking only up on the main ring-road. But probably the most spectacular will be in Hua Thanon, at the impressive Guan Yu Shrine, although finding a place to park near here will be formidable. ‘Guo Nian Hao’ everyone!
Rob De Wet
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THE LEARNING CURVE Nurturing each light brightly – at SCL International School.
The founder and director of SCL International School is Emma Dyas, who is also an active teacher there. SCL has been in operation since 2004, and there are currently a total of 30 experienced staff, with seven of them being Thai nationals. There are 106 children aged between the ages of three and 11 years in the junior section, and 86 in the secondary school – and that gives a very advantageous teacher-pupil ratio of six to one! However, the first thing that’ll strike you about this school is that everyone’s so happy! The grounds run in a long strip away from the road, with the nearer part having the classrooms in a row at ground level. In the warm, sunny weather this is a positive incentive for some aspects of lessons to move outside. And so it’s a rare occasion that you won’t see dozens of younger children all energised and busily engaged, as soon as you walk in.
Of course that’s no measurement of what a school is all about. It’s just a first impression. But this atmosphere of enthusiasm and involvement doesn’t go away: if anything it’s revealed as an integral part of the ethos at SCL, as you start to look around the school in more detail. Children learn through play. So although the younger ones seem to be doing a lot of cheerful running around, they are actually being guided to follow the British Early Years Foundation Stage Framework (EYFS), one element of the UK National Curriculum. The school caters to children of all nationalities, and from the ages of five to 18 years, which also tells an aware parent that it’s not all just candy and cuddles at SCL – there are students here looking to go on to higher education, to university or vocational colleges. In fact the curriculum here is very much as you would see at any well-organised and staffed UK independent school. In the early years, there is a degree of flexibility but, as students progress, not only do they seamlessly move onto the English
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National Curriculum Key Stages 2, 3 and 4, but there is a wide avenue of varied opportunity at post-16 level, too, at Key Stage 5. But not all children are academically inclined. And whereas the UK National Curriculum recognises this at examination level (with its grading system geared to students of all abilities), so also does the philosophy behind the teaching at SCL. Education is as much about social harmony and integration as it is about academic performance. Every young person is seen as an individual, with their own personality, strengths and weaknesses. And each individual receives the appropriate support and guidance necessary to progress through each stage of the curriculum. Samui is a multinational community, and many of the students are not native English speakers. The emphasis in the first instance is on numeracy and literacy; therefore some lessons are bi-lingually taught in Russian, French, Thai or Mandarin. And students who are not at ease with English are taken out of the main groups for regular one-to-one sessions with a specialist English teacher. As progress is made, this time gradually reduces. Similar parallel structuring also allows individual attention and help for students with special educational needs. There’s a strong emphasis at SCL on working together, which is reflected in not only school drama and music performances, but also in the projects to be seen around the grounds of the school, ‘the garden’ being a good example here; a plot of land where everything from art lessons to land husbandry and science experiments can be hosted. Likewise there’s a keen interaction with the local community in aspects relating to marine ecology, and conservation and recycling activities in line with the Eco Schools Project. In terms of academic performance, SCL has consistently achieved results that are admirable. Every year between 30 and 40 15-to-16 years-olds sit their Edexcel International General Certificate of Education exams. And at Key Stage 5 – what is often called the 6th form – a significant number have followed programs of study that lead to Advanced Level examinations or the International Baccalaureate Diploma Program, prior to gaining places at universities and colleges around the world.
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But, in keeping with the school’s philosophy of educating children of all abilities, there are also vocational links with other educational establishments on Samui. And also, in particular, the Bangkok School of Management (BSM), which offers students the opportunity to study for two years in Bangkok, and receive a UK accredited Higher Diploma, and then be directly enrolled into Northumbria University (NU) final year top-up programme to obtain BSc (Hons) Business and Management. In the final year, students can then either choose to complete the degree at BSM Bangkok, or to transfer to NU’s two campuses in the UK, which offer further choices of specialisation. A freely nurturing and child centred approach? Or one that is assessmentdriven and academic? Or, perhaps, a school such as SCL International School, which fulfils both objectives? It’s absolutely your choice to make!
Rob De Wet For further information, telephone 0 7741 8789. www.sclinternationalschool.com
TREASURE TRIO
Nature Art Gallery’s three stores will mesmerize you with their wealth of jewellery and semi-precious stones.
Samui and its surroundings are full of surprises, and one of the most enjoyable shopping experiences in terms of sheer satisfaction is stumbling across the two Nature Art Galleries that are to be found on the island, along with a third on Koh Pha-Ngan. The trio of stores definitely stand out as venues for all things to do with precious stones, metals and jewellery. Many a shopper to Samui is familiar with the typical kind of jewellers to be found in holiday destinations. There’s often something a bit doubtful about the sales philosophy – the idea being the old one of pile-it-high and sell as quick as a melting ice-cream in Benidorm. That works, but it’s not the approach that Nature Art Gallery brings to jewellery. Step inside any of the three stores and you’ll immediately see that they take the very opposite stance. That first essential impression: everything’s spotlessly clean, excellently presented and a cinch to browse. You’ll enjoy spending time in these stores. There’s nothing in them that can be classed as mass-produced; these are creations that draw the eye, and many have been hand-crafted by artists who send in their pieces from places as diverse as Bali, Israel and India. From Bali, there are luscious leather and silver bracelets with buffalo bone which has been finely sculpted. Meanwhile, an Israeli artist presents electro-formed silver which has a slightly chunky look whilst being surprisingly light, and a Thai designer offers unusual bracelets made of stingray skin and dyed into a whole range of pleasing pastel shades. Not only does Nature Art house a wonderful collection of jewellery from Thailand and beyond, it also has in-house artists who make jewellery to order. A team of three gold/silversmiths can produce pretty much anything you can dream up. Their only real concern is that they can get hold of the materials needed – though most are already in the store
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– and that if you’re on holiday you have enough time on Samui for the artefact to be completed. The three artists are on hand on Samui to answer questions, and all you need is to have some idea, however vague, of what you’d like them to make. An extra plus point here is that they all speak English (even the assistants do) and communication is rarely a problem. They’ll often rely on the stores’ own supplies to make your jewellery and this brings us to a further bonus about Nature Art Gallery. It stocks semiprecious stones, and these are on display for browsing. It makes it a lot easier to make jewellery if you’ve actually chosen the very stone that will be inset. Plenty of people also delight in simply choosing stones and rocks for their properties. Each stone has its own energies, and if you pick them up you may well be able to feel them. But no matter if you’re not a believer in the powers of rocks and crystals, they’re definitely beautiful in themselves and ideal for jewellery-making. Whether you’d like a one-off artefact from the stores, or would like something special made from scratch, owners Michael Trav and Shai Nissim have an eye for what is aesthetic and pleasing. They’ve curated their stores to reflect the best in design, and have also assembled an
Welcome to Sa-ard’s Watersports Center on Koh Samui. Where everyday can be an aquatic adventure – above and below the crystal clear blue waters of the Gulf of Thailand. Join us and discover what r eally makes these islands so very special. Our brand new catamaran Fountaine Pajot Belize 43 “Kindred Spirit” can comfortably take 15 people on a day trip and sleep 6 people on over-night excursions. The starboard hull has a double stateroom with ensuite bathroom and living area. There are also two double state rooms in the port hull with a shared bathroom. You’ll also find a large galley and a living area with CD/DVD player and a 28 inch colour TV. All the cabins and living areas are fully air-conditioned.
inspired range of raw materials. A lot of love and effort has gone into the business, and the results exceed customers’ expectations. The stores are located opposite Central Festival on the beach road, in Central Festival itself, on the upper floor, and over on Koh Pha-Ngan in Haad Rin. When it comes to price, many visitors to the stores are in for a pleasant surprise. Despite all the creativity and the sophistication of the showrooms, everything you see at Nature Art Gallery is very well-priced. There’s nothing exorbitant and whether you’re looking for something very simple for a couple of hundred baht or a piece that’ll become an heirloom in its own right, at Nature Art Gallery you’re sure to find it. With durable designs that are made to last and extremely creative handiwork, this trio of stores is always bound to please its diverse clientele. Expect to spend quite a while browsing what’s on offer.
Dimitri Waring
_____________________________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 7742 2594. www.thailand-jewellery.com
Sa-ard’s Watersports Center also offers Private Speedboat tours to the beaches and snorkeling destinations of the surrounding islands. Manager and Skipper is Sa-ard, one of Thailand’s most celebrated windsurfers. He took part in the Olympics 1984 in Los Angeles and 1992 in Barcelona, was a long time member of the Thai National Windsurfing Team, has been Asian Champion and 5 times Gold Medal Winner in the South East Asian Games. You simply could not be in better hands!
NOT IN THE
HOT SEAT Don’t want to drive, or ride a motorcycle? There are other ways of getting around Samui.
From the moment your plane touches down on Samui, you’ll be faced with choices: what to eat, drink, which beach to go to, what to do at night, and so on. A good many of these choices will involve transport. And Samui, which looks so small on a map, turns out to be a lot bigger when you’re actually here. Not everyone wants to hire a car or motorbike to travel around, given the dangers of driving here – the island has appalling accident statistics. You may think your options are limited, but they’re more wide-ranging than at first glance. And they’re worth investigating as each of them comes with benefits of its own. They can variously help you save money, time and cut down on stress. Here’s the lowdown on ways to get around without actually being in the hot seat. Maroon and yellow taxis seem to be everywhere, and will give you a toot of their horn as they’re about to pass you. The drivers will take you anywhere as long as the road isn’t too much of a dirt track. Some locations on Samui look like they’re accessible, but the roads still haven’t been completed, and unless you’re a rally driver with a seriously good 4-wheel
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drive vehicle, it’s best not to venture on them. Taxi drivers may refuse if the road looks a bit rough. Taxis are a lot more expensive than they are in Bangkok, and before you get in one, you should ask the driver for the price. He or she will expect this. You can then accept, decline or bargain. Whatever you do should be done light-heartedly. Once you’ve accepted the price, you cannot bargain further. Check also that the price quoted covers all your party and isn’t a per-person figure. Taxi drivers are supposed to use their meter, but it still remains a rarity. Taxis can be few and far between at night if you are out in one of the smaller towns, and scarce if you are in Chaweng or Lamai in the small hours. You can also ask your taxi driver to wait for you – again, work out a price – and he or she may be amenable to being hired for a whole day if you want to go sightseeing around the island. The drivers are, of course, a mine of information about the island, and if you need something, they will
know where to go. If travelling to a house or villa, you’ll need to show them where to go on a map; postal addresses are meaningless unless you’re a post office employee. Much like regular taxis, motorbike taxis ply the roads but charge prices that reflect that you’re hiring just two wheels and not four. Again, make sure you ask the price before you get on. If you’re not used to being a passenger on a scooter, be aware that you’ll quite naturally feel nervous – no matter how good the driver might be. On the back of any motorbike, there’s no sense of being in control. If you’re able to relax, you might even find it fun. Definitely more sedate than going by motorbike taxi, the songtaew is an institution in itself. It’s pronounced ‘songtail’, and sounds as if it might be named after some bird or fish, but the word translates as ‘two benches’ – which sums up the design of the vehicle. It’s simply a truck with a bench running down its length on each side and a canopy overhead. The golden rule is to negotiate the price before you get in, and to be aware that unlike
a taxi, it’s per person. Typically it’ll cost you about 50 baht to make an eight kilometre journey. You can hail a songtaew exactly as you would a taxi. Once it stops, the driver will wind down the window and you can ask if he’s going your way. Sometimes the songtaew will turn off where you don’t expect it to, so it’s always worth asking. Smaller roads aren’t covered so well, and in some cases not at all, but you’ll find there’s usually one along every 15 to 20 minutes on the ring-road. If you’re arriving on Samui by sea, you’ll find songtaews waiting at the ferry ports. You’re sure to find one that will take you to the area of your choice and will drop you off at your hotel if it’s on their route.
After about 4:00 pm, songtaew prices rocket, with drivers justifying the hike by saying they’re now hiring their vehicles out directly to you. On the plus side, they’ll now tend to take you directly where you want to go.
Definitely a more luxurious way to travel, hotel limousines are sleek and chic, and their price is normally far more than a taxi would be. Probably it’s not worth bargaining with the hotel over the price, but they won’t mind if you do. Villas can also hire out limousines for you and you may be able to work the price down somewhat. It all depends on the individual villa. Naturally a limousine is a highly comfortable way to travel, and the service will be impeccably polite, too. Not all hotels and villas have limousines, of course, and you may find their transport a little rough and ready at times. Some out of the way resorts and hotels especially those in the hills where the roads have alarming slopes may use 4-wheel drive jeeps to get up and down. They won’t even resemble limousines; rather they’ll look like they’ve just crossed the Sahara. But they’ll do the job. Airport limousines are the way to go if you want to arrive at your resort or villa in style. You can book them at the arrivals hall at the airport, while you’ll find taxis waiting just outside. By the way, all hotels can arrange for you to be picked up at the airport; the driver will be waiting for you bearing a sign with your name. At the arrivals hall, you also have the cheaper option of going by minibus. The driver will take you to your destination, as long as it’s close to the ring-road – they’re not amenable to going more than a few hundred metres up dirt tracks and minor roads. Many resort restaurants also offer free round trips, picking you up at your hotel and seamlessly whisking you to dinner before taking you home again. This service will certainly add not just to your comfort but it’s also a lot better for your stress levels – and of course you can have a drink too, without worrying about the possible consequences. Some spas also
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offer the same service, and since spas are all about relaxation, having a lift there will enable you to feel laid-back even before your session starts. If you decide to go on a boat trip, a pick-up service is part of the deal, and after the excursion you’ll be dropped off again. This enables you to get to the right port on time. The disadvantage is that it’ll be a van that’s picking you up – along with maybe a dozen other passengers, all from different areas. This can take up quite a lot of time. Finally, there’s Samui’s own variation of the international ‘Uber’ concept – an online GPS trackable taxi call-and-pick-up service. It’s more expensive than Uber on the mainland, but it’s cheaper than a normal Samui taxi cab. Plus you can scan it online and watch for it arriving. The name is Navigo, and it’s just the thing for getting you there and back again afterwards! As you can see, alternatives to driving a car or riding a motorbike exist on Samui. And more people than you might think avail themselves of these other forms of getting around. They’re definitely less stressful and are a lot safer, especially if we’re talking about motorbikes. They can also be fun, and if you plan wisely, then they won’t cost you too much; they can easily work out far cheaper than hiring a car.
Dimitri Waring
BECAUSE YOU’RE WORTH IT! Satisfaction guaranteed at Paul’s Fashion.
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Paul’s Fashion is a professional bespoke tailor service, dedicated to ensuring that each and every customer is 100% satisfied with their finished garments. Whether it is a formal suit, trousers or skirt, a tuxedo, dress, wedding dress, winter coat or jacket, even leather shoes or boots. They are so confident of the service they provide, the high quality of the materials they use and the design and workmanship, that without hesitation, they offer the perfect guarantee; they will not accept any money for any finished product that you are not totally happy with. Sounds too good to be true? Well, take a look on TripAdvisor. The results are amazing. Not one negative comment, only glowing words of praise. Paul Subedhi, a partner and spokesperson for Paul’s Fashion says, “We have a cast-iron guarantee, if you are not happy with the final product then you pay nothing.” And Paul is true to his word, all those TripAdvisor comments tell of an honest, trustworthy and exceptional experience. It only takes one unhappy customer and ratings tumble, but there is not one, and no-one has asked for a refund since the shop opened in 2005! Tempted but unsure? If you have never had bespoke clothes made for you before, this is what you can expect at Paul’s Fashion. First, you need an idea of what you are looking for - whether you want a classic traditional design or something more contemporary, dramatic or even exotic. Go with an idea of the look you desire and the type of material. And then prepare to be led astray!
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These guys know their trade, they can advise on which cuts and materials would suit you best. One of the three partners will listen and advise, getting individual attention to whatever you desire. You can take along a picture of exactly what you want, or browse through their up to date style books and magazines of all the latest fashions and trends. From now on you will deal only with this tailor, and you can discuss all the finer details of your design; linings, pockets, collars, buttons, lengths… Then choose your material. All the fabrics come from a broker in Bangkok, where they continually search for the best quality fabrics at the best prices. There are no cheap synthetic materials or blends used here, only premium quality, authentic 100% cotton, linen, silk, satin silk, cashmere, wool and chiffon. And the shop is chock full of all the possible colours in each. If clothing is your thing, it’s akin to being a kid in a sweet shop! Whether you are looking for summer wear or winter wear for home or a trip to cooler climates, Paul’s Fashion has you covered. Peruse the stacks of materials, feel the quality and see a number of suits and dresses on display in the shop. Then you will be measured. Be honest here; don’t hold things in unless you plan to do that whilst wearing the finished item!
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Depending on your schedule, you will then come in for a fitting. They will have made a template for your measurements, and now is the time to check and begin fine-tuning the cut and stitching. Be sure to move about as you would normally - walk, sit, bend and twist to ensure the fabric fits you perfectly in every dimension. It’s worth noting here that men make men’s clothes and ladies make ladies clothes. I have heard many a story about woman’s clothing not fitting quite right around their curves. Not so at Paul’s Fashion, perfection here is the name of the game. Then another fitting to check those adjustments. Nothing is left to chance. And finally, the finished product is ready for the final check-over. Try everything on again, if there is any dissatisfaction it will be re-done, or you pay nothing!
Most customers become repeat customers, either returning every year or ordering via email to overseas destinations. Your details and measurements are kept on file for up to five years from your last order, making repeat orders a cinch. You can buy one suit, shirt or dress, take it home, wear it and then order more. Delivery is recorded via DHL, and can be with you in just four days! And, for returning, repeat customers, free alterations and repairs are available. You can’t be fairer than that!
So how long does this all take? And do you really want to leave your nice relaxing spot by the pool? The preferable time scale is three days from start to finish. But if you have left things to the last minute, everything can be completed within 24 hours. They have over 40 pattern cutters and machinists at their disposal. Visit the shop, located just off the oneway beach road in central Chaweng, opposite McDonald’s. It’s open from 10:00 am until 11:00 pm, or take advantage of the free pick up service from anywhere on the island. Feeling lazy? No problem, arrange a personal visit to your hotel or villa. One of the partners will arrive armed with sample materials, designs and the trusty tape measure!
Karan Ladd
There are many tailors’ shops on Koh Samui, but Paul’s Fashion towers above the crowd for its exceptional service and high-quality finishes. A good quality suit will set you back around 8,000 baht, a little more for the crème de la crème of materials. A dress from 5,000 baht, depending on the style and fabric chosen. You might pay slightly less at other tailors, but no-where else on the island has a 100% success rate of satisfied customers, or has won the TripAdvisor certificate of excellence for the last two years running.
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If you want great fitting individually tailored long-lasting clothes at a fraction of what you would pay at home, contact the longest running, most successful tailor on Samui – Paul’s Fashion. You are definitely worth it!
____________________________________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 7741 3932 or 0 846 273 812. www.ks.paulsfashion-samui.com
INTERIOR DESIGN
Discover new ideas and inspiration at Loft by Oriental Living.
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The output of Loft by Oriental Living seems to know no bounds. There’s an enormous and satisfying range of art and design, all of which look good in the homes and villas found on Samui and its surrounding region. Step in, browse – you’ll find inspiration. Located on the ring-road opposite Big C in Chaweng, Loft by Oriental Living is unmissable. Even from outside, you get the idea that it’s more about art, appreciation and inspiration than a commercial store could ever be. To really get the feel, you need to go there for yourself. It’s a very welcoming kind of place, and there’s no sense at all that anyone is trying to make a sale. It’s more like stepping into an art gallery, but not a normal one; you’ll be offered coffee, for a start. There are sales staff here, but they seem more like art curators. Heading the team here is Khun Alex W. Raksai, a keen aesthete. He’s able to answer any questions you may have, and like most of the staff here, he speaks very good English. He has done much to make Loft by Oriental Living what it is today; he travels across South-East Asia to find items that delight the senses, and makes sure that everything is brilliantly presented. The showroom (or should we say gallery instead?) is a unique collection that features both traditional and contemporary designs and artefacts for
today’s interiors. Nothing here is massed produced; these are creative, nurtured products, often totally made by hand. That’s incidentally one more reason why guests return here again and again; the stock varies and when individual pieces are sold, then they’re replaced by something that’s different. At the time of writing, bold eye-catching paintings feature on the walls. These are portraits, vibrant with colour, part-composed of solid contour lines, as found on maps, but which are used here to underline the shadows of a face. Other paintings are more whimsical, a dog in a top-hat for example, painted not on canvas but on the leaves of a German translation of a Russian novel. Meanwhile, a yellow Pegasus unfurls his wings close by the entrance – he’s all frame-work, a modern sculpture but look closer and you’ll see he’s made entirely of bicycle parts. There are the more traditional items, too – a wooden boat references Indonesian colourings and design, while an ornate doorway suggests a maharajah’s home. Ceramics abound: pots, vases and dishes aplenty, all with colours and textures that draw in the eye. As you can see, all this is not exactly the bland please-all style that’s so prevalent in much of the island’s accommodation.
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But there’s more still. Furniture that’s decidedly good-looking yet always practical. Beds that call out to be laid on (you’re encouraged to do just that, by the way), and dining tables that range from unique takes on the traditional as well as the purely contemporary. If you’re looking for teakstyle hard woods or the blonder woods of Scandinavia, you’ll find them here. Whether you’re looking to furnish a modest-size home or are seeking a turn-key interior design scheme for an entire resort or villa development, then Loft by Oriental Living offers expert solutions to suit a very wide range of clients. Loft by Oriental Living came into being thanks to Michael Dietvorst, who is the founder of Oriental Living, a go-to store for everything interior design related. It has a long and remarkable list of clients who’ve been faithful customers for years, as well as a further branch in Phuket.
Oriental Living and Loft by Oriental Living offer a bespoke service that they can be justly proud of. Both offer design services thanks to their two in-house designers, Khun Sirapassorn Kongsang, who is based on Samui, and Khun Nirut Tanchoo over in Phuket. The team can literally craft a living space – all they really need is to have the time to talk with you about it, and get to know you’re needs and wishes. They can work to deadlines and are able to keep within your budget. If you have a brand new project – a blank space, so to speak – they can inspire you to create a beautiful yet practical habitat. Or maybe you have a space, already filled, that needs revamping or a makeover? This also lies in their field of expertise. It’s a very customerbased procedure, with the team installing everything themselves; they don’t outsource delivery but prefer that the responsibility rests in their own hands. That leads to more customer satisfaction. Alex and his team
also give advice on how to protect and maintain purchases. In addition, everything comes with a warranty, meaning there’s great peace of mind. Loft by Oriental Living showcases a splendid array of items that ooze flair and originality. And from December 15th 2017 to January 12th 2018, it will be staging a photographic exhibition by Adrian Rawle. The store is open from 9:30 am until 6:00 pm, Mondays to Fridays and from 9:30 am to 5:00 pm on Saturdays. See it for yourself and become inspired – when it comes to the world of interiors, it’s like taking the scenic route, rather than the more usual approach.
Dimitri Waring
_____________________________________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 7724 7675. www.oriental-living.net
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TEMPLE THOUGHTS
Be aware of the rules when visiting a Buddhist temple in Thailand.
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It’s one of the most common things when you go abroad – you sometimes offend people without knowing it. It’s not so bad when you are in a country that’s similar to your own; the chances are that their culture is much the same, too. But when you come to Thailand, many things are not at all as they seem. Yes, it all looks familiar: the shiny new cars and the tower blocks and the smart phones and the trains and boats and planes . . . but don’t let that deceive you. You’d probably be more cautious if you were out in the wilds of the north or north-east of Thailand: everything there is far more rural and rustic, and your surroundings are unfamiliar. But in Bangkok – or Samui – it’s all very cosmopolitan. And it’s easy to relax and forget where you are. Although, having said that, the very fact that these up-to-date places are used to the awkwardness of visitors and tourists makes them a lot more tolerant of your unwitting mistakes than a temple full of devout farmers up in Udon Thani might be! Really, when it comes down to it, the whole subject centres around thoughtfulness and a respect for others. And this is something that either concerns you or it doesn’t, no matter what country you come from. In the last couple of years I can recall Thai social media being outraged quite a few times by the careless and disrespectful behaviour of people fooling about and ‘desecrating’ temples or holy images – posing in a bikini while sitting on a statue of the Buddha, for instance. Or a group of people all signing their names on a temple wall. And in each case, the offenders came from a different nation. Admittedly these examples are both unusual and extreme, and the vast majority of visitors to Thailand would never dream of doing anything like this. But many of them, without realising it, unknowingly break quite a few of the rules of respect that exist not just in temples, but also relate to all holy images and places – in effect these aren’t about what we’d call sacrilege, but more to do with politeness or etiquette. You’d think that everyone visiting a new country would be interested enough to find out about it first. But, even in these days of instant information via the internet, it’s astonishing how many people just don’t bother. Often a foreign
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tourist, sitting with his feet up on a chair or footstool, just can’t understand why a Thai is showing disapproval. But, again, it’s down to religious convictions; in this case the belief that the head is the most scared part of the body and, conversely, the feet are the most spiritually unclean. One of the problems is that, in the West, religion no longer plays a part in the lives of many people. Thus it’s hard to imagine a nation where aspects of their spiritual beliefs are constantly in play. For example, another often-unknowingly committed blunder is for a woman to take an empty seat, in a bus or a train, next to a monk: it is strictly forbidden for a monk to have any physical contact with a woman, in any way at all. And, naturally, that also applies when you go to visit a temple; although in this instance you’ll probably be more cautious. Everyone seems to be aware of the need to dress modestly when visiting a temple. Bare skin is deemed offensive, and long sleeves should be worn for both women and men. The same with shorts; long trousers are desirable, although most temples have a communal set of shirts and sarongs that you can cover-up with. So prepare yourself first: cover-up and take off your hat, sunglasses and shoes before you enter. And avoid treading directly onto the wooden threshold step in the doorway – step carefully over it. Buddha statues are highly respected images and should therefore be regarded with care. You shouldn’t touch the Buddha, and never point 74 l www.samuiholiday.com
at Him even if you only intend to show your friends some aspect or another. Also, make sure that you don’t raise yourself higher than a statue of Buddha or images of respected monks: kneel down if you want to take a closer look. And, when you are ready to move on, back away respectfully from the statue, rather than turning your back on it. There are a few other small points, too: Always use your right hand if you want to give or receive something. And if you want to talk to a monk, never put yourself above him; if he’s sitting or kneeling, change your position to match. And then there are just some common-sense things. It’s a holy place, so turn off your phone before you go inside, and don’t eat or drink or even chew gum. But, if you really want to do the whole thing in style, as well as observing all the things outlined so far, also do this: enter the temple with your left foot first, and exit by leading with your right foot. While this is certainly not expected from tourists, doing so means you did your homework on Buddhist customs, and showed respect. And so, if you happen to catch the eye of a nearby monk and he gives you a gracious nod of acknowledgement, your temple thoughts will have all been worthwhile!
Rob De Wet
An exclusive luxury development of private pool villas with panoramic sea views in the prime North East of Koh Samui, just minutes from the island’s most popular beaches and entertainment areas.
Designed by David McCormick of Msystem, the renowned international architect recently crowned ‘Best luxury Residential Architecture Firm - South East Asia’, each villa provides the perfect blend of “contemporary tropical living”. Each villa is also designed to meet the dual requirements as a luxury vacation residence and successful luxury villa rental property. Sunbathe on the expansive terrace, take a cool dip in the infinity pool, relax in the integrated Jacuzzi and dine under the stars. Breathe fresh air, get away from it all and escape from the city in style.
Just 2 villas left for sale at this award-winning development. SALES: 0629 899 887 / 0856 920 550 I INFO@THERIDGESAMUI.COM I WWW.THERIDGESAMUI.COM
MEDITERRANEAN MEDLEY Enjoy the Mediterranean delights of The Cliff Bar & Grill - fine food and drink, impeccable service and great views.
The approach could hardly be any better. Follow the winding, scenic stretch of ring-road as it heads through the hills between Lamai and Chaweng, and you’ll come to The Cliff Bar & Grill. It’s perched over a beautiful bay and fringed with beautiful tropical vegetation - an ideal setting in other words. But that’s not the only draw here. This is a restaurant that really stands out when it comes to what’s on the menu: a Mediterranean-based trove of fine dishes, all of which are beautifully presented and make for superb lunches and dinners. The Cliff’s been going strong for 14 years now. In fact, it was one of the original international restaurants on Samui. It helped pioneer the supply of hard-to-get ingredients to the island; back then it was a daunting task. Owner and master chef, Bradley Munns, travelled to Portugal, Spain and Italy to find the right mix of herbs, spices, ingredients and recipes to please his guests. It was then up to restaurant manager Lionel Helena to keep the supply going. Despite the difficulties, both were determined to satisfy their guests. And they still are. Proof of that is to be found on the wall of the restaurant when you walk in. It’s covered with accolades and awards for food and wines. None of this is Mickey-Mouse certification but comes from august bodies such as Thai Tatler and Wine Spectator – competition for these kinds of awards is fierce, and just to register restaurants have to be able to offer top-notch quality, and show proof of it. For a restaurant to actually go on to win an award is definitely prestigious: Wine Spectator, for example, gave The Cliff its award of excellence ‘for having one of the most outstanding restaurant wine lists in the world’. A great part of winning any kind of award like this is the culinary team; soon after Bradley and Lionel opened The Cliff, they found the ideal chef to help them. Sergio Martelli has worked at some of the world’s top restaurants, and brings enormous flair and creativity to the menu here. He also caters for parties, and this Valentine’s Day he’ll be preparing some wonderful dishes for couples to enjoy.
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Sergio likes to ensure that all guests leave feeling satisfied, so he goes to great lengths to ensure that everything here is superior in quality. The best meats feature at The Cliff, with prime beef coming direct from Australia; it’s first aged three weeks and then is chilled, not frozen, before it’s flown out. Vegetables are bursting with freshness; they come from either the restaurant’s own garden or from local markets. Seafood comes from nearby waters, and is equally fresh. Check out The Cliff’s menu on their website, and you’ll see that there’s immense variety in the dishes. All reflect a dedication to freshness, whether they’re appetizers, such as salads, piri-piri or curried Goan prawns or mains, such as fresh-caught line fish or seafood platters. Equally recommended are the meats. Try the Australian rib eye steak (330 g), or the highly delicious lamb chops from New Zealand – you get three of them, each weighing 100 grams. In addition there’s also a variety of pastas and other dishes, as well as desserts such as tiramisu,
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chocolate brownie cake and ice cream. There’s even a cheeseboard. Perhaps best of all, there are some 140 different wines to choose from – check out the large, cooled display when you walk into the restaurant. You’ll also find a brand new cocktail menu that’s been put together so that guests can enjoy a select number of traditional and more contemporary tipples. The team here are especially welcoming and friendly, ensuring that you and your guests have the best time possible. A hostess is usually on hand to help with any queries, help with enquiries for special occasions and generally to ensure that everything runs seamlessly. The Cliff is open daily from midday until last food orders at 9:45 pm, though drinks continue till a lot later. A range of cocktails await you in The Cliff’s own very popular cocktail bar.
SCL International School International Education from Pre-school to Secondary Educating the Mind Nurturing the Soul
Small classes Individual education plans Fully qualified teachers A family atmosphere
With these qualities, it’s not hard to see why the children at SCL are achieving so much A warm welcome is extended to anyone who wishes to visit the school
Tried and trusted, The Cliff is a wonderful place to go for eating and drinking. With its friendly atmosphere, talented staff, the icing on the proverbial cake here is definitely the amazing view from The Cliff’s outdoor deck. Languid afternoons and evenings feel all the more relaxed whilst soaking up the vibe here.
Dimitri Waring
_______________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7744 8508. www.thecliffsamui.com
SCL International School 127/40-50 Moo 3 Maret, Lamai, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 84310 Phone: 0 7741 8789 Mobile: 0 810 910 714 Email: emma@sclinternationalschool.com www.sclinternationalschool.com
HEALTH HAVEN Health Republic raises the bar for detox, weight loss and wellness.
The newly opened Health Republic, another project by the Beach Republic Group, has a serene ocean-front setting on Lamai beach, adjacent to Beach Republic itself. It offers a pleasing combination of detox, wellness and nutritional awareness, all in one centre of excellence. As Annabel Nicholls, the Wellness Manager explains,“We specialize in offering programmes in a very clean, comfortable and welcoming venue. Everything has been arranged so that guests can enjoy their time here in an atmosphere that’s friendly and welcoming, and leave us feeling rejuvenated and relaxed.” Health Republic is open to both day visitors and residential guests. You can simply drop in for a massage or steam, and let your cares and stresses be kneaded away with a variety of treatments. There are various packages, allowing you to stay for a few hours and come away feeling completely refreshed. Most importantly, Health Republic offers three, seven and ten day holistic programmes for detox and weight loss. These are also available to those
staying elsewhere on Koh Samui; however staying in residence is recommended to get the most from the programmes. There’s a beautifully designed herbal steam room, where guests relax and enjoy the benefits of the fragrantly herbed mist. The Yoga Sala has lovely views of the ocean, and is a serene setting for the morning and afternoon classes. Yoga here is for complete beginners or yogic fliers - something for everyone. Samui residents and frequent visitors receive preferential rates, making the offering from Health Republic even better value. Particularly popular are the discounted pass cards for the herbal steam room, allowing guests to just drop by and melt away the strains of the day. Health Republic also has its own raw juice bar that offers all manner of tempting yet healthy drinks, juices, smoothies. You’ll find a raw and vegan menu too, replete with tasty dishes. The culinary www.samuiholiday.com l 85
team show how delicious healthy and nutritious food can be. Choice of diet is one of the biggest factors in ensuring optimum wellness. Health Republic offers advice and help that will stand you in good stead. With the right tools, it’s possible to make lasting changes and end up with a fitter, healthier body and mind. Health Republic is a place where, as Annabel says, “Guests can both share information and learn about food and diet. Sound nutritional advice is part of what we offer”. What’s the use, after all, if you fall 86 l www.samuiholiday.com
straight back into bad habits once your detox holiday is over? Health Republic does its utmost to ensure that you’re well-prepared to make lasting changes. Health Republic offers both privacy and community, allowing you to choose exactly what mix you would like between seclusion and time with others. There’s no pressure to do anything that you don’t want to do, and the experience of being here truly feels like a holiday with an energizing boost.
Exclusive Ladies & Gents Custom Tailor & Shoe Maker
Paul’s Fashion was established in 2005. We are a specialised bespoke tailor for both ladies and gentlemen. We provide Suits, Shirts, Tuxedo Suits, Dresses, Winter Coats, Leather Jackets, Leather Shoes and Boots for business as well as Casual wear. Free pickup and delivery services to your hotel anywhere on the island. Hotel fitting service available if you are too busy with your holiday schedule. We keep your measurements in our database so you can order in future by mail.
A visit to Health Republic, whether long or short, is highly recommended for wellness seekers who are looking to ‘Detox Different’.
Chaweng Beach Road, Opposite Mc Donald’s next to Baan Samui Resort
Dimitri Waring
______________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7745 8200. www.healthrepublic.co
2016 & 2017
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Free Pick-up Service, Please Call Mr.Paul : +66 (0) 84 627 3812 E-mail: info@ks.paulsfashion-samui.com www.ks.paulsfashion-samui.com
IT’S MAKE OR BREAK TIME AGAIN! New Year resolutions are an admirable thing, but what are they really all about? Here’s a thought. When you read the stories in here, what do you think? I don’t mean whether you actually like the stories. I mean . . . what is your instinctive feeling about the writer? Do you simply assume that we’re all experts on what we’re writing about? I imagine that many of you do. The reality, though, is different. At one extreme we’ll be interviewing people, accumulating facts, and taking detailed notes about what they say. Now and then there will be a topic that we know about. More or less! But at the other end of the scale, we won’t have a clue, and head straight for Google. Like this story for instance. Hands up all of you who are experts on the topic of New Year resolutions. No, not about how many of them you have made and then broken, but about the idea behind them, and how it all began. How it was, and is now observed and celebrated, and in what ways by different nations and cultures. Who’s heard of the Roman god, Janus, for example? You see, there’s a lot more to this than meets the eye. The first thing I learned was this: after 30 minutes of Googling there wasn’t one writer who’d said a word about anything – any country or culture – except for his own, and seven out of every 10 articles were American-based. Plus 90% of these were about how to keep the resolutions that you’d made, and how to be strong and psychologically motivated. Also, it’s almost impossible to find any information on the southern hemisphere – remember, all nations and cultures celebrate the New Year in one way or another. So much for Google! I suppose that it all comes down to pagan cultures, and the gods, who were far more important than they’ve become today. This is how New Year resolutions all began – making promises to the gods, not to ourselves. Also, don’t forget that different parts of our planet had their ‘new year’ at different times. And this was always close to the time when the failing sun began to rise again in the sky; what we now call in the northern hemisphere the ‘winter solstice’. It’s no accident that throughout all ages and in every culture, the sun god has been worshipped far more than any other.
Historical records about annual good intentions kick off with the Babylonians, some 4,000 years ago. They were also supposedly the first to hold celebrations in honour of the New Year – although for them this happened not in January, but mid-March. The people made promises to the gods to ‘pay their debts and return any objects they had borrowed’. If they kept to these vows then the gods would bestow favour on them. If not, they would fall out of the gods’ favour, and the results of that didn’t bear thinking about. Moving up the timeline, in around 1,200 AD, the Incas set about much the same sort of thing with their nine-day festival of ‘Inti Raymi’, held in July. The big difference here was that they were a far more bloodthirsty lot, and their sun god, Inti, demanded that all good intentions be accompanied by some serious sacrifices. In this instance he was happy enough to be offered animals, but no doubt was also impressed by the parades and colourful processions! At which point we move towards the global spread of Christianity, and take a look at The Romans. The European pagan culture in its different forms was slightly more off-centre, being buoyed-up not by the reappearance of the sun, but rather marking the new year by the end of the harvest season, traditionally at ‘Samhain’ at the beginning of October. But the majority of ordinary folk were guided by the solstice,
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and considered their new year to begin at this turning point. This was the cultural soil into which the Romans seeded Christianity. Their winter solstice fell on the 21st of December each year, and was celebrated by the pagan celebration of ‘Yule’. The Roman emperor, Constantine, cleverly cashed-in on this in 318 AD, by keeping all the same festivities in place and merely changing the name from Yule to Christmas. The Roman New Year was celebrated on January 1st – indeed the month is named after their god, Janus. He is depicted with two faces, one looking back to the old year and the other forwards, towards the new. And so it didn’t take much persuading for the early Christians to tack another festival on almost alongside Christmas, just a few days afterwards. At which point we need to nosedive away from the familiar western New Year and take a peek towards the east. And here it’s easier to consider not nations, but beliefs. The Chinese New Year for instance, is wellestablished and celebrated around the world. According to the lunar calendar, it falls around the end of February. And, in amongst all the ritual and symbolism, there’s a truck-load of good intentions. Houses are cleaned and repainted to signify leaving behind the bad deeds, thoughts and regrets of the old year. Debts are paid off, gratitudes expressed and wishes of good luck and prosperity bestowed on family and friends.
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And it’s much the same in many ways with the Thai New Year, Songkran, which pops up a few months later in April. This additionally involves rituals of purification and gestures of respect to ancestors, family and friends. And, again, there’s the similar resolve to be more honest, truthful and worthy of merit. Meanwhile back in the west, our resolutions are far more plentiful. Golly-gosh, do we westerners have fuller lives or what! We’re going to give up alcohol or become more physically fit. Eat only 800 calories a day. Cut out fast-food. Start a serious diet. Learn three perfect party jokes. Spend less time online. Live life ‘like every day was the last’. Get rid of all our bad friends. Stop worrying, cut our hair, eat more vegetables, buy better lottery tickets and many, many more. Spot the common factor?
Start your journey to better health and vitality today. Buy at our center in Lamai or online www.TheSourceSamui.com info@thesourcesamui.com Tel: 089 067 9856 (+6689 067 9856)
The Source Herbal Detox
179 Moo 4, Lamai, Maret, Koh Samui 84310 (near Tesco Lamai)
Yes. It’s all about self, self, and self. So let me be the first to make a resolution – writing this way back in December. My resolution this time around will be to make resolutions which aren’t all about me. How about you?
Rob De Wet
Private Retreat Program - stay at our luxury 4-star retreat on Koh Samui and do our all-inclusive program.
See website for details - www.TheSourceSamui.com
AS GOOD AS IT GETS
The New Nordic Group’s performance and reputation offers investment and ownership opportunities that are very hard to beat.
We all want the same things. Firstly, the guaranteed success of our investment. Second, a comfortable return in the foreseeable future. And the icing on the cake; realistic and affordable payment terms if possible. And this is the reason that the New Nordic Group is not only so successful, but continues to grow and expand – they established all these credentials more than a decade ago. For a long time, the whole idea of property investment on Samui was a very cloudy sky indeed. Some projects succeeded, others failed. Some were even downright fraudulent. It got so the only reliable measure was to carefully examine the history of a developer’s previous projects before you even looked to see what they were offering, and even that wasn’t always totally failsafe. But the story in Pattaya is different. It was up and running as an international community long before Samui even had an airport. And with Pattaya being a built-up city, the demand for apartments and condominiums was part of the fabric of the place right from the start. This was where New Nordic began. But the group went about this in a different way from most. They began building communities: developments with a ‘village’ atmosphere, with restaurants bars, shops, a fitness centre or gym with a sauna or spa. And in the years that followed, the thinking behind the huge (and hugely successful) 50-building project at Pratamnak Hill, on the edge of Pattaya has spread further afield.
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Today the group has its headquarters in Hong Kong, and employs over 1,000 people, with developments now in Cambodia, Vietnam, Bali and the Philippines . . . plus Koh Samui. The first project, close to the beach in the centre of Lamai, the ‘New Nordic Koh Samui Lamai Hotel and Resort’, is now almost sold-out – in fact the project was keenly anticipated, the demand was immediate, and 35% of the units here were sold in the first three months. The next phase is now well under way, and here there is something a little different; they are building a ‘palace’! But more of this in just a moment. The Senior Sales Manager for the group is Jan Nuijten. And he’s got some very positive observations on the way things work if you hook up with New Nordic. “We make it an affordable proposition to begin with,” he told me. “There’s a nominal deposit of 50,000 baht to reserve your apartment, then a payment of 35% of the price when you sign a contract. And then at each stage of the building, the foundations, the shell, the roof, you pay a further percentage.” “But we give a unique cast-iron guarantee with this,” Jan continued. “The New Nordic Group is offering a special incentive for those who pay in full right away. When the clients pay the full price of the apartment, we will offer them a return of 10% of the purchase price immediately, paid monthly (for all projects in Thailand, and quarterly for all other projects) until the construction is finished. But that’s only one part of the total deal. When complete, the New Nordic Group will undertake to manage your apartment if you are operating this as an initial investment (which many people do for the first 15 years, before taking over the property later so that they can retire to
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live in it). Not only will New Nordic give you that 10% per year for 15 years, but there are no hidden extras for management, maintenance, repair and refurbishment. (Although there’s a small annual maintenance fee which is split 50-50 between you and the company). It is New Nordic that pays you every month, so it really doesn’t matter if your apartment is occupied or not – that’s not your responsibility or worry. “And there’s another thing,” Jan Nuijten continued. “We’ve discovered that different nationalities are attracted by different types of development. And that’s why we are now working on our next phase, a development in Lamai (close to the first one) that has a ‘palace’ theme, with baronial suites and a themed restaurant together with wine cellars and underground caves. We have two similar to this in Pattaya and they’ve proved hugely popular.” The Samui headquarters and sales office of New Nordic are in Lamai, right next to ‘The Round Bars’ and their New Nordic Hotel and Resort. There is full information for you there, including presentations of existing projects and, in particular all the information on their upcoming developments on Samui. Plus they also have a substantial web presence - details below.
Rob De Wet
_____________________________________________________________ For further information. telephone 0 801 759 567. E-mail: jan@new-nordic.com www.newnordicgroup.com
B a r g e & Te r r a c e
Fine Beachside Dining at The Rice Barge & Terrace Authentic Thai Cuisine Daily A La Carte and Thai Set Dinner No visit to Samui is complete until you have dined at The Rice Barge & Terrace
Rice Barge & Terrace Nora Buri's Signature Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: ricebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com
Nora Buri's Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: ricebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com
ALWAYS WORTH SEEING Don’t miss out on Nathon and its environs.
An unusual meld of the extremely buzzy and the laid-back, Nathon is Samui’s capital and chief port. Guide books make scant and sometimes scathing reference to it – “no need to stay overnight here unless you’re taking an early morning ferry” – and so on. Many therefore just don’t bother to visit. Which is sad, as it channels the old Samui that’s so rapidly disappearing behind signs, billboards and developments. Nathon was one of the first places to sprout buildings, all made of wood, when people first started living on the island. It’s not known when the first settlers came, but it was Nathon that became the focal point of the island, and finally its administrative capital. Chinese settlers from Hainan also started living here, around the end of the 19th century, and built a very fine temple here. Nathon gradually grew bigger over the years, more so once tourists started arriving. The first to come stayed in houses in town before Chaweng took over as the main place to stay. These days the two towns could hardly be more different. But Nathon is definitely worth seeing. Head in along the ring-road and you’ll soon find yourself in the one-
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way system, with traffic heading through the town along the main street and round back along the seafront. Its shape seems to have been modelled on a baggage carousel system, with traffic slowly circulating round and round. Nathon’s small, so park anywhere you find space (try the port if all else fails) and simply walk. The aforementioned Chinese temple is set back a little from the main street and is definitely the town’s cultural highlight. Bring your camera as it’s very traditional and filled with colour, with plenty of mythical beings and symbols. Once inside, you’ll find some small shrines filled with Chinese gods and goddesses. Don’t expect to understand anything that goes on here; there are no explanations in English or any other language, but it’s a beguiling place to visit, and you’ll be glad that you came. Head back to the main street afterwards, where you’ll probably want to explore the shops; they sell the cheapest t-shirts on the island, and there are thousands of them. The rather dilapidated
KAYAKING Explore the caves and beaches of the Angthong National Marine Park Offices located behind Bondi Pub in central Chaweng and on Chaweng Lake Road opposite Lake View
For reservations please call 0 7730 0615 or 0 878 866 097 www.bluestars.info
shops turn out to be a major draw because of this. You can also find cutprice bags and rucksacks. Head over to Middle Street, as it’s commonly called, to see the remaining wooden Chinese shop houses that the Hainanese settlers built. They’re slowly disappearing, but in some you can still see the interiors, filled with old furniture and even older photos of long-departed family. Just south of the town – you’ll need transport – are the impressive Hin Lad waterfalls, featuring pools scattered along a two kilometre hike on a rough path into the hills (not for the faint-hearted), as well as a temple by the same name which is set in an overgrown jungly garden. If walking in the hills here, don’t forget how fast tropical sunsets can be – you don’t want to be heading back in the dark. Instead, aim to be on the seafront by then as sunsets are usually quite amazing in Nathon and along the west coast. Sit on the seawall and watch how the jagged masses of the Angthong islands, just out to sea, become silhouettes once the sun dips below the horizon. If you’re spending any more than a few hours in Nathon and its environs, you’ll need food and drink of some kind. In daylight hours, head for any of the eateries; all serve dependable Thai food along with some
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western dishes. Roungthong Bakery (there are two branches in town) is particularly recommended. If you come at the end of the day, head for the night market at the port, where you can eat for well under 100 baht. Food carts head there at the end of the afternoon and prepare all manner of Thai food, which you can eat at the ramshackle tables. The market is a convivial meet-up place for the townsfolk, who all seem to congregate here, while the rest of the town closes up very early. In fact, once it’s evening, the market is one of the relatively few places for people to go. Nathon is definitely not to be missed out on your itinerary. It’s not so much that there’s plenty to do here. Rather, it’s the town itself that should be visited; it’s the sheer atmosphere of the place that beckons. It’s quite different from anywhere else on the island. In fact, unless you’re really familiar with Thai ports or have travelled extensively you’ll find yourself in a new and unusual kind of place you’ve possibly have never come across before. A unique experience!
Dimitri Waring
W = WOW!
W Koh Samui leads the way with not just top quality and service, but lifestyle events too!
This beachside resort is tucked away on a little spur of land right where Maenam Beach begins on the north coast. I could go on to tell you about the 74 private pool villas and the exciting style in which they’re furnished and decorated. But that in itself doesn’t paint the picture you’ll see when you walk through W Lounge. The W brand includes fashion, art and music too, with unique, catchy and innovative design as a core element. All of these are woven seamlessly into the W experience, with fashion shows, guest performers, DJs, visiting international mixologists and beachside movie screenings being regular events. There are two main restaurants, and both are very much a part of the overall W ethos, yet each is extravagantly different in terms of ambiance, style, and cuisine. Namu usually brings first-timers to a halt, especially if they are coming in at night. You’ll end up next to a dark
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wall with a huge rectangular slab of timber bedded into it, no name, no wording, which slides to one side to reveal the busy and cheerful warmly-wooded contrast within. (Namu is the Korean word for wood, by the way.) The cuisine is simply outstanding (not to mention gaspingly, sublimely, delicious) and defies conventional labels. It’s been described as “Japanese contemporary cuisine – elements and ingredients from all over this region – but created with the imagination to envision this as it might be in the future. It’s a taste of Asia tomorrow – today.” But up at a higher level, and with a spellbinding sea vista, there’s also The Kitchen Table, W’s all-day restaurant. This has an altogether cooler and fresher contemporary styling, and yet retains Namu’s motif of subtle
and subdued under-lighting, offset here and there by splashes and accents of brilliance. The clean, modern design and the rich woods come to a focus on the low, circular wall that frames that spectacular seascape. The cuisine here is truly international, representing not only old favourites, but featuring many innovative offerings too. Possibly one of the most admirable aspects of W Koh Samui is that of sociability. Yes, naturally it caters for its in-house guests. But the resort’s public interface is geared to reach out to like-minded others, right across the island. Those fashion shows or movie nights mentioned earlier, are geared up for all to come and enjoy. Quite obviously this also holds true for the restaurant experience here. But W is nothing if not outgoing, and puts time and effort into its Facebook page in order to broadcast the attractions that are coming up.
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But there are also on-going features which you might not be aware of. W’s ‘AWAY Spa’ is one of the most progressive around. And from 10:00 am to 4:00 pm every day, it offers a different kind of ‘brunch’. This is a choice of Set A – 60 minutes of body scrub and 60 minutes full body massage, or Set B – 60 minutes full body massage and 60 minutes hydration strategy. For a brunch with actual food in it, not to be missed is the newlyintroduced ‘W Bold Brunch’ which is now happening on the first Saturday of every month. Being held at the oh-so-laid-back venue of The Kitchen Table, the spread is supreme, and the menu international. Running from 12 noon to 3.30 pm, children between the ages of three and 12 years come in at half price. And, in a similar vein, you can also experience some of that esoteric fare from Namu during the day, as it is now open for lunch every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. In celebration of this, there is a new ‘Contemporary Set Menu’ just for the occasion. And due to popular demand, Namu is now holding what has to be one of the most-creative
cooking classes on Samui. You can book this for any day – just call the number at the end of this article. Last but not at all least, there’s a very special private BBQ dinner for couples or groups on the beach – Hot Over the Coals – with your own dedicated chef serving you personally. Choices include - Under Sea Experience (seafood), Carnivorous Temptations (meats) or Ocean & Earth Tasting (surf n turf). Reservations are required 24 hours in advance. As I said, W Koh Samui is well-known for reaching out to the community, and it would take far more space than we have here to list everything. So take a look at their Facebook page to see exactly why W = Wow!
Rob De Wet
_____________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7791 5999. www.wkohsamui.com
A SWIM IN
THE PARK
The Angthong National Marine Park, one of the treasures of Thailand.
One of Samui’s biggest attractions turns out not to be on Samui at all. It’s a group of off-shore islands which attract thousands of visitors every year. The Angthong National Marine Park is visible from the west coast of Samui, and is an incredibly beautiful archipelago of some 40 islands. They’re easily accessible – under an hour’s speedboat ride – and if you don’t have time to see anything else at all while you’re on holiday, a visit here should be top priority. Even if you’re a seasoned traveller, this is a day out that’s bound to impress. When you think of desert islands, you may well be thinking of a classical atoll. You know the type from computer screensavers: a minuscule strip of beach with precisely three palm trees sprouting improbably from the sand. Well, these islands aren’t like that at all. They’re better. They’ve got more substance and a quirkiness about them that’s hard to define. For a start, there are the islands’ strange shapes to consider. On a map they don’t look remarkable – just an archipelago like any other, really – but see them up close, at sea-level, and they appear very strange. Some have quite smooth shapes, while others are so jagged that they appear at times to be barely natural. Their contorted features are due to the geology here being karst; limestone that’s been eaten away by rain and the sea, leaving them with fantastic shapes, and at times outlines that seem to have been cut by a mad person with a razor. For all this, they remain extraordinarily beautiful. If you’re used to the palm-dominated vegetation of Samui, then the park is very different. Limestone is always thirsty for water and laps it up like a sponge, making the ground very dry. For plants it’s a hard-scrabble existence, and though they’re very green, the island’s composition means that only quite sturdy vegetation thrives here on the thin soils. This in turn makes it difficult for animals, and the ones you see here are small. There are lots of frogs here, as well as lizards, snakes and iguanas. You’ll find otters, langurs, crab-eating monkeys, hogs and bats on the islands, while in the seas surrounding them, there are larger creatures to be seen: you may be lucky enough to spot a whale, and it’s quite common to see dolphins sporting here.
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The islands are conveniently close together, so that once you’re there, you can easily hop between them, they’re very diverse and hold many surprises. The only people who really know them well are the park rangers, who are tasked to look after them, and the sea gypsies who have built a small community on one of them. Even people who have been born and bred on Samui can’t say they know them well. Although tantalizingly close, these islands know how to guard their many secrets. On Koh Mae Koh, you’ll find not only a beautiful beach but the unexpected: an inland lake, usually known as the Emerald Lake. Use the wooden steps to climb to the top of the island and then it’s a short walk to the edge of the cliffs, where you can gaze down on the chartreuse-green of the waters below you. It’s connected by a subterranean passage to the sea beyond, so it’s a salt-water lake. There are also great views of the other islands from the vantage point. If you want to stay overnight in the islands, it’s certainly no problem and you’ll be very welcome at the park headquarters, located on Koh Wua Talap. You’ll find good standard bungalows and if these are full you can rent a tent, or bring your own. You can reserve accommodation at the park website. Be aware though that it’s definitely not 5-star; there’s only cold running water and an electricity generator that shuts down at 11:00 pm.
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Whether you’re lodging in a tent or in one of the bungalows, costs works out incredibly cheap, especially given the exotic nature of the surroundings. You can also, by the way, obtain a lot more information about the park at the headquarters, as well as have a snack or meal in the restaurant here. You’ll also find a short walk on the island that takes you up to a viewpoint, where most of the panoramic photos of the park are taken. It’s a very rewarding hike, although is quite difficult, with steep slopes and jungle on the way. You’ll need to be reasonably fit to walk it as well as have reliable footwear. The summit is almost a half kilometre above sea-level. Getting to the islands is a cinch as there are so many boats going there. Simply enquire at any travel agency. Usually days out are organized around swimming at several spots, and there’s usually a visit to the Emerald Lake and the park’s headquarters. There’s a choice between slow boats that take up to 50 people, or speed boats. Avoid going by speed boat if you have a bad back, but in any case, be careful; the drop from the crests of the waves back to the sea can be literally spine-jarring. Sit at the rear of the boat for the most stability. If you’re visiting with a group of people, then the best alternative is to charter your own vessel.
EXPERIENCE SIGNATURE CHAR GRILL DINING AT ITS BEST. Dining on an al fresco deck on the west end of Fisherman's Village, overlooking our charming Lily Pond garden and shoreline infinity pool. Savour fresh seafood and tender meats grilled to perfection, enhanced by tableside preparations and expert salt guru seasonings. Every day for lunch and dinner 12.00 noon – 10.30 pm For reservations or more information, please contact our Guest Service Centre at +66 77 428 300 or email bophutsamui@anantara.com. LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com
Full Moon
Fisherman’s Village
Blue Stars offers some very comprehensive packages at good prices, and are tried-and-trusted operators, who have been taking people to the islands for years. It might sound as if the sheer popularity of the park means that it’s as crowded as Disneyworld, but this isn’t the case; because there are so many islands, there’s never really that over-busy feel to a day out here. It’s only the park headquarters and the Emerald Lake that get crowded at peak times. A visit to the park is very high up on the list of things to do if you’re visiting not just Samui, but Thailand itself. For an unbeatable day out, this one scores points across the board, and many holidaymakers make a point of returning to the park each time they visit.
Dimitri Waring Anantara Bophut Koh Samui Resort 99/9 Moo 1, Bophut Bay, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 84320 Thailand T +66 (0) 77 428 300-9 F +66 (0) 77 428 310 E bophutsamui@anantara.com
INK UP! Getting a tattoo on Samui could be the best souvenir of your holiday.
A long time ago on Samui, I was sitting in a café when a western guy leaned over the balcony and pointed to the tattoo he could see on a western passer-by, and said with total incredulity, “Do you know what that actually says?” I could see a fairly large tattoo right on her shoulder, big, bold, no-nonsense lettering. Chinese. Impressive. The woman didn’t stop but just snapped at him, “Yes, yes, I know what it means.” There was fury in her eyes, but tell-tale humiliation too. It seemed like she’d had this conversation before. The guy couldn’t help himself and announced to his group of friends. “It says dog!” That kind of tattoo, and the kind of scenarios that inevitably follow, are what we fear when getting a tattoo abroad. It always pays to check out the professional feel of the tattooist’s. No different here on Samui. As you know if you’ve spent any time in Thailand, spelling mistakes abound in brochures and signs of all kinds. But you’d expect a tattoo artist to double check the signs in his or her shop, right, and make sure that they were, well, correct. But it’s not always the case, alas. But when said artist is inking designs in English and Chinese on people’s bodies, maybe that carelessness is going to be repeated – on the customer’s skin. Once you get to the stage of looking around tattoo parlours on Samui, don’t opt for the first one. You can always come back. It’s really important to have some sense of intuition. What’s your feeling when talking to the owner? What’s the atmosphere in the parlour itself? If you have doubts or second thoughts, then it’s best to act on them. But you know this, right? Right! But don’t let the so-called ‘holiday bubble effect’ get into your bones: you’re having this lovely, sunny time on a tropical island where everyone is laid-back, so what could go wrong? Having a tattoo isn’t like going to the cinema to see a film; the effects are permanent. Don’t opt for such and such a tattoo, just because you’re carried away by the moment; don’t let your holiday go to your head. The major consideration, however, is the hygiene aspect. It’s crucial to do your research and to be on the lookout for unsanitary places. Talk to the tattooist about your concerns, and ask to see the equipment that’ll be used. Ask all the relevant questions that you normally would about sterilization and safety. All kinds of tattoos can be had, and usually at a price that’s more affordable than in many parts of the west. Samui abounds in tattoo parlours, and there are some amazingly good artists here. If you find one you’re really drawn to but don’t know what to get, simply ask them for their advice. Some will also have designs they’ve created on the side and want to try out; these tattoos may be extremely creative. Perhaps they’re not for everyone, but may be for you.
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It pays to think about the kind of tattoo you want well in advance; otherwise you may opt for, yes, a feather tattoo or some kind of sameylooking power animal. Check out Instagram feeds for this, and get an idea of the vast range of tattoos possible. Some of the best-known artists here may not be able to fit you in on the day you want – particularly if you’ve gone into their studio on the day expecting a tattoo then and there. There may even be a waiting list. If you can, it’s worth contacting the artist well in advance, before your holiday begins. Prices are very reasonable but remember the old adage: ‘A good tattoo isn’t cheap, and a cheap tattoo isn’t good.’ If possible schedule a consultation with the artist to talk about pricing and any questions you might have. You’ll need to be able to communicate exactly what you want; this is artwork after all, and is collaboration between artist and a living, breathing canvas. If that sounds too lofty a concept, then simplified, it’s the same kind of communication that you need when getting a haircut. Always speak up – even during the tattooing process itself. And even if it’s stating the obvious, make sure the person doing the tattooing is the same as the person who you first consulted with. Many familiar designs are just waiting for you – browse through whole catalogues of them and you’re bound to find some that you love. However, now that you are on Samui, you might want to avail yourself of the kind of tattoo that’s only available in Thailand, the sacred kind, known here as ‘sak yant’. There are all kinds of these, and if you look around you’ll see plenty of Thais who have these tattoos. Some of these designs go back even further than tattooing itself and existed as geometrical forms. It’s said that no particular person ‘invented’
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If you are looking for something wonderful and different, Zazen restaurant is the place for you to discover. Zazen is truly one of the most romantic and serene beachside dining restaurants on the island. Every night this charming establishment lights up over 100 candles to set the ambiance for you to experience.
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Tel: 077 425 085, 081 737 8771 Email: fb@samuizazen.com Website: www.samuizazen.com
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them, as they are mystical. Instead, they’ve always existed as they stem from the cosmos itself. Many Thais believe that those who drew them and later tattooed them merely discovered them; they’d been there all along. The sak yant have magic in them too, and can protect the wearer. In the past, the majority of males in Thai villages would have some of these tattoos. Some consisted – and the tradition certainly continues today – of intricate series of dots, others show animals or depict myths, and still others consist of sacred lettering, known as ‘khom’. It was Angelina Jolie who helped make shoulder tattoos in this style so popular. Thais deeply respect these sacred tattoos. Often the tattooist will ask the person about to receive the sak yant if he or she will abide by various precepts; good conduct is required. Many Thais really do believe the tattoos offer protection. In one famous case, a high-ranking police officer complained to a tattooist that a criminal that he’d tattooed had literally become invincible – bullets were magically deflected from him. There may be more to tattoos than meets the eye, especially when they’re sacred, but whatever you believe, the tattoo artists of Thailand are renowned for the beauty of their work, whether it’s of the traditional kind or the more international. They have, between them, many thousands of satisfied customers who are extremely happy with the designs inked forever on their bodies.
Dimitri Waring
Tel: Tel:007742 77429500 9500 Website: Website:www.DentalSamui.com www.samuidentalsolution.com For Taxi: www.samuidentalsolution.com ร้านตั้งอยู่ในโรงพยาบาลกรุงเทพ ถนนรอบเกาะ ตง้ัอยใู่นโรงพยาบาลกรงุเทพ For Taxi: รา้นเฉวง
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Asia Travel Asia Travel is the most popular travel agency on Koh Samui. Established 15 years ago, they are well known to provide updated travel information reasonably priced for all international and domestic needs. Their second to none consultancy service will help you with all aspects of long or short stay requirements such as visa, work permit or company registration and finances. Asia Travel is well known for their quality services as mentioned in The Lonely Planet. Tel: 0 7742 1342, 0 7742 1185, 081 970 9632, 081 396 0023 Fax: 0 7742 1185 Email: asiatravel_international@yahoo.com For Taxi: ร้านตั้งอยู่ที่ถนนหน้าทอน
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Private real estate with incredible 180-Degree views The actual view from this house is the picture above. This 4-bedroom house has been built according to European standards on 972 sqm. It is centrally located near Nathon and only 500 metres from the main road in a small, warm and tidy community. Priced very competitively, this house is ideal for couples or young families ready to live in paradise. Price: 8 Million THB only Tel: 081 970 9632 Email: asiatravel_international@yahoo.com
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