No, instead you’ll come across them at private parties and barbecues, steamed and spiced, but heaped, still in their shells, all together in one big dish. Many people I know aren’t very keen on squid, as usually it’s too chewy and rubbery for their tastes. Cockles, on the other hand are notably less so, although I can think of many more appetising snacks than one that would look more in place at the end of a young person’s finger, but is also well seasoned with sand as an added attraction! It takes all sorts to make a world. And, here in the sun, real, luscious, succulent seafood is readily available, and at a fraction of the price you’d pay for it back home. I suppose if you really wanted to you could scout around for mini molluscs – but, considering everything else that’s available, you’d have little reason to shell out for cockles at all!
Rob De Wet
Romantic views, soothing sounds and classic Italian fare with a modern approach combine to please the most discerning diner. Olivio - a must for visitors and locals alike.
Olivio ~ beachfront at Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort Chaweng Beach. Free round trip transfer from Chaweng, Bophut and Choeng Mon. For reservation please call 0 7723 1500 www.siamwininganddining.com
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A Chang is as Good as a Rest A look at some of the local beers in Thailand
There can be nothing more refreshing than an ice-cold drink on a hot sunny day. And if you’re a beer drinker that probably means only one drink will do. But don’t stick to what you know. Take the plunge and try out some of the local Thai beer. You will be pleasantly surprised. Thai beers are all basically light, German style beers, and while not to everyone’s taste, they are perfect in the hot weather here. So go ahead and order one. Be warned however that with an average alcohol content of 5% they are stronger than the beers you might find back home. Beer was first introduced to Thailand by Europeans, but by the early 1930’s, Thais had started brewing their own. Singha was the first locally produced beer and is still the best known brand outside of Thailand. In recent years though, Chang has become highly competitive, giving it a run for its money. Singha is produced by Boon Rawd Brewery, a family enterprise that is still in the same family hands. It was founded by Khun Boonrawd Sreshthaputra. He was born in 1872, and educated at home by his father until the age of 11, when he was sent to a temple to be further educated by the monks. After a short period of schooling at the temple, he started work. Firstly
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as a teacher, then a clerk and then a car dealer. He set up his own business ferrying people across the Chao Praya River, between Bangkok and Thonburi. The business was successful at first, but with the building of bridges and more competition, and with his customer base declining, he looked around for something else to do. He became interested in brewing beer, and soon had a dream to open up his own brewery. He submitted a request, in 1930, to the Thai government to do so, and in the meantime took the opportunity to tour Germany and Denmark learning all he could about beer making operations there. In 1933, his dream came true when the Boon Rawd Brewery produced the first bottles of Thai beer, Singha.
same flavour and quality as the original. Currently it’s available as the original Singha, Draught Singha or, with just 3.5 % alcohol content, as Singha Light. The light version has a milder taste but is still very pleasing and doesn’t have a watered down taste. You can find Singha beer at any restaurant you go to in Thailand, from high end to street stalls. When ordering Singha in Thai, remember it is pronounced ‘sing’ without the ‘ha’ sound at the end.
Singha beer is known for its label which depicts a mystical lion from Hindu and Thai legends. If you look closer at the label you will also notice that above the image of the lion and the name Singha, is a winged mythical animal, the Garuda. This is a royal warrant, and was awarded to the company in 1939. Boonrawd is the only Thai brewery to be granted permission to display this.
Ranking alongside Singha as one of the top beers in Thailand is Chang. It’s a newer beer on the market, and was first produced in 1995. However it is now the number one selling beer in Thailand. In the Thai language, the word ‘chang’ means elephant. You can see on the green labels two white elephants facing each other across a gold fountain. It’s generally sold in bottles in restaurants and bars but you can find it in cans at convenience stores and supermarkets. So-called ‘Chang towers’ which can hold a couple of litres of beer apiece are also sold in some restaurants, particularly at the all-you-can-eat places. These are ideal for a group of people eating and drinking together.
To this day all ingredients used in the beer are sourced from Thailand in order to maintain the
With an alcohol content of 6.4%, the Chang Classic really has a kick. To give you an idea, a
regular 250 ml can or bottle is double the strength of a regular US lager beer. So keep this in mind if you decide to try it. There are many who refer to the ‘changover’ effect of the beer. It’s brewed with malt and rice as well as hops, which gives it a maltier taste and a more amber colour. While Chang is strong, bear in mind that Thais drink their beer in a glass of ice, watering down the beer. So when you’re at a restaurant don’t be surprised if the waiter asks you if you’d like a glass of ice, ‘nam keng’ for your beer. Chang Export, which is usually found outside of Thailand, does not use rice and has a lower alcohol content of 5%. And Chang Light is still a reasonable 4.2%. Chang beer is produced by the company ThaiBev which is owned by the Thai billionaire Khun Charoen Sirivadhanabhakdi. In 2004, the company became the sponsor of Everton football club in the UK. This brought wider international recognition for the brand. In the same year ThaiBev launched Archa beer. It’s cheaper and has a lower alcohol content than Chang. This beer also uses rice in its production, and is popular with many Australians. Singha also have a budget beer, Leo, which is aimed primarily at the working classes. Both these beers are much lighter in taste,
which may suit some drinkers who prefer a lower alcohol content, but they may not be available in the higher end restaurants where you’re more likely to find Singha. If you decide on a sunny afternoon you’d like to pop into the supermarket to pick up a bottle of beer, check your watch first. If you are after just one or two bottles, be aware you cannot buy from 2:00 pm to 5:00 pm – unless, that is, you buy enough beer to fill a crate, in which case your purchase will be happily rung up. And you can drink in a restaurant all day. It’s an odd situation, but one to keep in mind while you are here.
Natalie Hughes
Neo Horizons Neo New World Tapas and Grill offers spectacular brunches and so much more.
A day on the beach. It’s an expression you hear all the time and it mostly has the same set ingredients: swimming, lying out on the sands, having some kind of food and drink… and just being thoroughly lazy all day long. The formula’s a winning one, but it’s one that only really works in cooler climates. In the tropics, if you really did spend a day on the beach, out in the sun with no shade, you’d soon turn bubble-gum pink. Perhaps that’s why beach clubs are becoming ever more popular in places where it’s truly hot all the time. They represent a civilized way to spend the day, and offer a much safer alternative to roasting to death in the sun. And unless you drink too many daiquiris by the pool, you’ll avoid any health risk. Best of all, perhaps, they're very convivial – you can easily meet like-minded people and have a great time. One of the most popular of these is KC Beach Club Hotel & Pool Villas, a beach club that’s only been around for a couple of years, but which has been making a name for its style, quality and the sheer good fun that it offers its guests. Handily located just a little south of central Chaweng, you can naturally stay at the resort and enjoy the amenities to the full. It has, for
example, a massively long swimming pool, as well as a second one right by the beach. The rooms all have balconies and staying here is a good base for anyone who wants to be close to the action of night time Chaweng. But you certainly don’t need to be a staying there to enjoy the fun. Every Saturday the resort hosts the KC Saturday Pool Party. It’s held at its beachside restaurant, Neo. As you walk through the resort, just before you come to the beach, you'll find the restaurant just to your left. It’s an open-air building with a terrace that looks out onto the swimming pool, and over to the other side of the resort, where there’s a well-stocked bar. The setting’s ideal for guests, as it’s so close to the beach. The pool party is an all-day event, starting at 11:00 am and winding up at 7:00 pm. It’s probably one of the most relaxing ways to spend an entire Saturday, and is proving highly popular. Guests gather early, but of course, can come at any time they wish. From 1:00 pm to 5:00 pm, Neo holds its Saturday Brunch. It’s a generous affair with Thai and International dishes, a barbecue, salad bar and last but not least a yummy selection of desserts. In charge of this all this is Chef Danai Tummakesorn, more usually
known as Khun Odd. He is Neo’s new chef, having just started back in November. He formerly worked at Beach Republic, down in Lamai, and is an expert when it comes to beach clubs. At Neo, he’s hit the ground running, so to speak, and guests will really love some of his excellent food. For the Saturday Brunch, start off with a delicious salad, with a variety of lettuce, tomato cherries, and the addition of couscous and hummus. It’s a vibrant and utterly mouth-watering combination. Canapés are next – there are some half dozen – which you can follow with a variety of main dishes. Pasta is made on the spot to accompany Italian dishes, such as mushroom and mascarpone ravioli, while you'll also find Thai dishes such as a succulent massaman curry. In addition there’s chicken and beef satay, miniburgers and kebabs of beef and pork. Already, as you can see, there’s a huge choice – and that’s before you check out the carving stations, which offer still more: roasted pork belly, leg of lamb, and roast beef, along with roasted potatoes, vegetables, and baked fish. The most decadent items are, of course, left to the end, and you will have to exercise restraint
with treats such as chocolate mousse, crème brulée and panna cotta. That’s in addition to the various ice-creams and fruits on display and yours to try. As the afternoon moves on, focus shifts to the beach and the pool, where people tend to gather, either sitting out under parasols or indolently cooling themselves off in the water. The beach is part of the long, long bay of Chaweng, and has white powdery sand that shelves down into the shallow crystalline blue sea. The bay is the most popular area on the island, but as it’s miles long, it’s never as packed as, say, some Mediterranean beaches tend to be. Many patrons enjoy the happy hour from 5:00 pm to 7:00 pm when they can try local beers Chang, Singha and Tiger, or Heineken. Classic cocktails are also on offer at two for the price of one.
morphs into a more night-time place, serving long-drinks and then intimate dinners as the stars begin to come out. Reasons abound for choosing Neo both in the daytime and in the evening; it’s a fun place to be, and the relaxed ambience is always on tap. Whether you’re staying at the resort or not, you’re assured of great times.
Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7791 5155. www.kcbeachclub.com
Every day Neo puts on a DJ, who’s usually up in the booth right by the beach. His or her job is to ensure that everyone has a relaxed time, and thoroughly enjoys themselves, making the day seem like a part of some longish and chilled party. Usually on Saturdays, there’ll be entertainment in the form of dancers. As the sun sets and the evening gets underway, Neo
Located in the beautiful Fisherman’s Village on Bophut Beach, our experienced chefs proudly present authentic Thai cuisine and Southern Thai dishes. Fresh seafood is a must with great quality at reasonable prices. Enjoy the tranquility of the beach, the twinkling stars and the whispering waves along with the beautiful music. A superb dining experience and great memories.
(Fisherman’s Village) 16/16 Moo 1, Bophut, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84320 Tel: 077 430 030, 077 245 035 Free Parking!! Opposite the restaurant
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Your private Holidays in Samui
THE SIAM RESIDENCE B o u t i q u e
R e s o r t
Thai & International cuisine in Lipa Noi / Koh Samui Phone: +66 (0) 77 420 008 | samui@siamresidence.com | www.siamresidence.com
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Encompassing Excellence At its beautiful bayside location, Chef Chom’s presents the very best of Thai regional cooking. It’s almost at the northernmost point of Samui and has a faraway feel to it, yet, it’s just a short drive from Chaweng. Is the trip worth it? Definitely – if you’re looking for a deliciously secluded setting and some of the very best Thai food to be found on the island. The Tongsai Bay, one of Samui’s first luxury hotels looks out over an idyllic bay, and is a wonderful setting for dinner. It’s home to Chef Chom’s, which offers amazingly good Thai cuisine, prepared in traditional ways resulting in exquisite tasting dishes. The resort dates back to 1986, when the original owner Khun Akorn Hoontrakul arrived on a Royal Navy ship – there were no roads in those days. He fell in love with the bay, sleeping out under the stars, and within a week deciding to buy the land for its beauty and wildness. These days you don’t need the help of the navy to get here – just drive north out of Chaweng, follow the beach road, through Choeng Mon, then turn right at The Bank of Ayutthaya and head up the smaller road till you see the sign for The Tongsai Bay. The current owner, his son, Khun Gob Hoontrakul and his wife Khun Goya, have always
kept the resort close to nature and its roots – today it’s a haven for bird and animal life, and adheres to very strict environmental policies. It’s hardly surprising that the food here to is equally close to its roots, not just in the ingredients, but also the cooking methods used to prepare the dishes. The restaurant itself is gracefully built around a central pond and looks down a small valley towards one of Samui’s most idyllic small bays. There’s little light pollution here making the setting decidedly romantic, and if you’re seated out in the open, you'll enjoy being under the stars. Tables are set out in the little courtyard, and each has a canvas covering, so you won’t suddenly have to dart for cover if there’s some rain. Everything is done to make you feel at home. The waiting staff anticipate your needs but never hover, and if you need any help with understanding the menu, they’re adept at explaining what everything is. The Tongsai Bay’s General Manager, Leisa Kenny-Protsat describes the food as “Rustic contemporary Thai,” but says the description
doesn’t really do it justice. “This is food that’s true to its origin; it’s eclectic and it’s regional. It’s prepared and cooked in different styles, all faithful to whichever region of Thailand it came from. We’ve elevated the products and the ingredients used in the preparation.” So what can the diner expect from all of this? The results are impressive. Each bite of food seems to have a perfectly blended medley of tastes. You'll find the four cardinal tastes of Thai food in evidence in each dish you choose here: salt, sweet, sour, spicy – the trick is to balance them all, and this is what Chef Chom’s does so well. Getting tastes like these and ensuring the consistency is there isn’t just a case of browsing a cookbook or three, then employing a nifty chef and ending up with a batch of treats – even if that approach can work! The road to success is a much longer one than that, and started centuries ago, long before the restaurant or the resort were in existence. The restaurant was originally inspired by the traditions of Royal Thai cuisine; a style of cooking that has evolved over generations to serve Thailand’s royalty and their guests.
Naturally this was all food that was prepared with maximum care, no matter if the dish was originally humble or not. And threading its way through the cuisine were the cooks who elevated each dish to its maximum potential. One such family of cooks handed down their knowledge to Chef Chom herself, who worked at the palace of the late Princess Vibhavadi Rangsit in Bangkok. She also taught cooking, training over 500 chefs, and collaborated with Keith Floyd when he made his TV programme about Thailand. The restaurant at The Tongsai Bay is named after her, as she worked here for twenty years. And although she is now retired and lives in Bangkok, she still advises on today’s recipes for the concept of traditional dishes that are authentic to their region. Most kitchens rely on nifty ways to do things very quickly and some cut as many corners as possible. Not at Chef Chom’s. Were you to spirit up a Thai chef from a hundred years ago, he or she would be totally at home; all the old utensils and methods are to be found – this is a mortar-and-pestle kind of place, and you won’t see the cook reaching for a bag of pre-mixed ingredients from the local supermarket.
regions of Thailand: the north (Nua), North-Eastern (Issarn), Central (Klung) and the South (Dtai). Of these, the North has the mildest flavours, owing to its more temperate climate, while the south – and yes, Samui’s part of this, has the spiciest of the regions’ foods, simply because temperatures are hotter here and food doesn’t keep long. Aromatic and full of flavours, a visit to Chef Chom’s is a treat indeed. Faithful to the four cuisines of Thailand, dinner here is to partake in the finest of traditional culture in an extraordinarily green setting. Not surprisingly both the restaurant and the resort are highly acclaimed for their excellence.
Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7724 5480. www.tongsaibay.co.th
The recipes bring out the best of the four culinary
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What’s in a Name? Don’t walk on by – Drink Gallery has some of the most splendid eats on the strip!
Go to somewhere in the middle of Chaweng Beach Road in the early evening. Sit down for a while. Watch the people. Then take a gentle stroll in any direction and check what people are doing. Look to see which businesses are busy. Work out what people want at this time of night. The shops and bars will have a few customers. But the food-pubs and restaurants will be full. People like to eat first, and then wander around and enjoy a few drinks afterwards. Bars and pubs are for rounding-off the evening while you street-watch and take in the passing sights. Restaurants are for food, earlier on. Which is why many of our visitors can be seen
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wandering past Drink Gallery in the early evening. And if this relates to you, a visitor to the island, try to picture this. Small shops, big shops and brightly lit stalls. A tailor. A small supermarket. A lovely little restaurant, intimate, with glowing warm lights and happy eaters at the tables. And then a huge cube of glass with a prominent bar and two giant walls covered in bottles and glasses, and a big sign saying ‘Drink Gallery’. You continue walking, and stroll past in your search for a nice place to eat unfortunately. Unfortunately? Most definitely so! Because let me tell you a secret. Drink Gallery has some of the
best and most exciting food on the entire strip. People who live here know this. They come here to eat, as well as to indulge in their world-class cocktail creations. If this minimalist establishment, with its enormous expanses of concrete on the walls, and its avant-garde styling were to be suddenly shifted to Bangkok, it would be full every night. Everyone who knew of its reputation would flock there, trendsetters and starlets alongside the residents. But this is Samui. And if you’re here on a ten-day stay, you’ll quite possibly go home having missed all of its delights. Minimalism is trendy. Quite a lot of new resorts
have had a go at this genre in the last few years, with varying degrees of success. After all, it doesn’t take much imagination to keep all your walls as undecorated concrete. But there’s a world of difference between doing things that are in style, and doing things with style. The décor here deliberately offsets the monolithic walls. Everything is all tied-in together and it almost giggles at you – it’s that quirky and charming. There’s a long wooden table in the middle. But every single chair is different. The glasses behind the bar look like they belong on an alchemist’s table, with retort stands and mason jars. The hand-made cutlery comes upright, each set standing in its own little black rock. The different
menus are a constant surprise – some being written on hand-made paper across a long Perspex slab, others being in the form of tiny framed flip charts. Then there’s the way in which your food and drinks are presented to you. Normally you’d get a plate with some food on it. But here it’s anybody’s guess. It might come on a slate slab. Or, if it’s one of the quite superb combos of eats and drinks together, tapas-style with an accompanying cocktail, it might come in a little stressed-iron rack, with the sauces in teensy Alice-in-Wonderland stoppered bottles alongside. All this kind of curious stuff isn’t some kind of
bolt-on gimmick – it’s the way the whole place has been conceived and realised. Everything’s integrated to create something entirely out of the ordinary. And dining here is a continual adventure, because you’ll keep noticing more curiosities as you go. All of which is fine and dandy, most entertaining, but what’s the food like? Simple answer: it’s gourmet quality. You may not know but this is actually a part of The Library, one of Samui’s top boutique resorts, which sits behind Drink Gallery, between the road and the beach. And its signature restaurant, The Page, shares its quality cuisine with Drink Gallery. And here you’ve got a
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choice. You can either dip into the à la carte menu, or you can go down the road of eats n drinks together. The à la carte menu is substantial (created by the internationally renowned chef, Khun Nhoi Ouypornchai) and featuring the usual sections of appetisers, soups, pasta, mains and desserts. There are no real surprises here (other than the superb presentation of the dishes) except perhaps the cost. A quick glance at the ‘mains’ section reflects pricing that hovers between 350 and 450 baht, with one of two of the more exotic offerings coming in higher. But it’s the highly individual way that Drink Gallery have combined
their cocktails and eats together which puts them in a league on their own. Firstly, let it be known that the entire cocktail menu has been designed by the world-renowned mixologist, Golffy Prabhananda. Golffy makes his cocktails as if he were a chef, using fruit, flowers, cheese, figs, raisins – just about everything imaginable. And a part of the ethos is presenting them in ways that are startlingly creative – expect to see your drink in a mini mason jar or a re-invented flower vase. Plus Drink Gallery have gone about the whole business as if it was a wine-pairing in reverse. Here they’ve started with a cocktail (such as Truffle Shuffle Gzoya – plum
sake based) and spent lots of trial and error twinning it with what amounts to tapas (such as two mini samosas with truffles and spices inside). These are limited edition ‘eat-tails’ (my own term!) there are several available with new ones being introduced regularly. And then there are the substantial ‘Pairings’. In essence, this is a set combination of cocktails and tapas, with different sections. Each of the eats and drinks has choices, and you get to eat three dishes from a choice of seven and three cocktails from a choice of six. Once again, they’ve matched the cocktails with the food.
Drink Gallery is open from 1:00 pm until 1:00 am and is just south of the landmark of Tropical Murphy’s. And now you know all about it, there’s no need to walk on by when you’re out for eats!
Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 2767-8. www.thelibrary.co.th
www.siamwininganddining.com 9 8/26/14 10:21 AM
Cinnamon
All you ever needed to know about one of the world’s most exotic spices.
It’s a startling thought. And, today, it’s almost impossible to imagine. But where would we be without Facebook, Twitter and the other social media? Not too long ago people were marvelling in the same way about the magic of e-mail. But now it’s all smart phones and instant messages and photos. And that means crazes can spread like wildfire. Remember the ‘no make-up selfies’ that swept around the world a few months ago? Or ‘the ice bucket challenge’? Or, on a less-global scale, about two years ago, stuttering around The States, for some odd reason that nobody can now recall, there was another passing social epidemic. The result was that, in just a few weeks, the Governor of Illinois did it live on a radio show, two national league basketball players were chastised for videotaping and Facebooking it and a school in Pennsylvania banned knee-length boots because of it. The boots were being used to smuggle the stuff into school. It was cinnamon. The challenge was to eat a whole spoonful of it, dry, without a drink. Going back to the days when it took six months to send a message, things were undoubtedly more sensible. Cinnamon was being gainfully employed by the ancient Egyptians as an essential part of the embalming process; it
reduced the stink somewhat. Around this period, most of the trading was in the hands of the seafaring Arabs, and it was they who brought cinnamon to Europe, via Egypt and North Africa, somewhere around the time that Christ was born. At which point the Roman Empire ‘discovered’ it and got all excited. As their empire expanded, they were constantly coming across new fruits and herbs and spices, but this one was something special. It changed hands at about the same rate as one year’s wages for a working man, and the emperor, Nero, was so upset by the death of his wife that he burned Rome’s entire stock of cinnamon on her funeral pyre. But then he was a bit strange anyway, and the same emperor who later fiddled happily while Rome went up in smoke. Then came the Age of Discovery for real. In the 16th century, sailors from Portugal, Spain, Holland, France and England all took off on ocean voyages across the globe in search of new lands, colonies and plunder. Romantic novels of this time are based around tales of gold, silver and jewels. But the fact is that, in terms of sheer value, the trade in exotic spices was easily equal to this and shipping was considerably more frequent. Salt was worth a
great deal, as was pepper; a notion we find strange today. Cinnamon, cassia, cardamom, ginger and turmeric, together with saffron, gradually yielded up their secrets, and traders sailed directly to their countries of origin, rather than haggling for them at inflated prices in the European marketplace. All, that is, except one. For almost 2,000 years, the wily Arab traders had kept very tight lipped about the origins of cinnamon. And, despite the plethora of European merchantmen and traders that were sailing the seven seas, none of them ever came across cinnamon. To hang on to their monopoly and maintain its exorbitant price, the Arabs spun mysterious tales about where and how they got the stuff. The main yarn was that eagles carried the cinnamon sticks to their nests in remote mountain tops. Arab cinnamon gatherers then left big chunks of meat below these nests for the birds. Thus, when the birds struggled back with the meat, its weight would cause their nests to collapse, allowing the crafty hunters to dash in and collect the scattered cinnamon. One big red herring was the fact that there are, in fact, two types of cinnamon. Cassia cinnamon was found in many regions, but it wasn’t the real thing. This is pungent and strong, often
even harsh in flavour. The rarer Ceylon cinnamon, milder and sweeter, was only to be found in . . . Ceylon. But by 1700 AD, both the Dutch East India Company and later, it’s rival in England, The East India Company, had mastered the cultivation process and established widespread cinnamon estates in India, where it was produced and exported along with rubber, coffee, tea, sugar and chocolate. Today we still come across these two types of cinnamon: Cassia cinnamon is primarily produced in Indonesia and remains the more pungent of the two varieties. This is the sort that we usually find in grocery stores and sprinkle on our apple pies or French toast. But the more expensive and milder Ceylon cinnamon, most of which is still produced in Sri Lanka, is mainly used for baking, and also flavouring hot drinks, such as coffee or hot chocolate. Many people are surprised to learn that cinnamon is actually the bark of a tree. It’s the inner bark of several trees in the genus ‘Cinnamomum’. When the tree is around two years old, it is cut down to a short stump, and it then grows back like a bush, putting out numerous side shoots. These are cut and skinned, then stripped of their bark, which subsequently curls naturally in the sun. These
‘quills’ are universally graded into four sizes of different lengths, with the longest being around 15 inches. Cinnamon has a crumbly texture, and is easily ground using something like an ordinary coffee grinder. It’s actually quite beneficial, in addition to its flavouring properties. Medicinally, an oil is extracted from the bark and leaves, the active ingredients of which contain antibacterial, antiseptic, antiviral, antispasmodic, and antifungal properties. It contains eugenol, which is both sedative and analgesic. Additionally, cinnamon oil is used to break down fats in the digestive system, and is used to treat nausea, vomiting, diarrhoea, stomach ulcers, acid indigestion, heartburn, lack of appetite, and abdominal disorders. So there you have it. From being found in mountain eagles nests by Arabs, to Emperor Nero’s love of burning things, to rubbing it on your gums. And you can even sprinkle it on your buns, if you want. Now you know all about cinnamon – it’s entirely up to you what you do with it!
Rob De Wet
Weddings, Celebrations, Parties & Honeymoons 2014
River Prawn Tom Yum
Rock Lobster
Sunset Dining in Spectacular Surroundings
Sea Food Taco
Lamb Chop
Beef Lasagna
Phuket Lobster Thermidor
Carbonara Pizza
This epicurean dining nirvana serves up the finest catches from the sea so our guests can Enjoy breathtaking sunsets while discovering our culinary delights at The Terrace, one of Koh Samui’s best beachfront feast like kings. Pay homage to our specialty – the royal triumvirate of lobster, tiger prawns and dining destinations. oysters. A holiday or a visit to Mövenpick Resort Laem Yai Beach Samui would not be complete without sampling the food at Indulge yourself with a journey of culinary discoveries at Mövenpick Resort Laem Yai The Terrace. Nestled on the beach, this majestic open-air restaurant affords diners a perfect view of the spectacular Beach Samui. The Terrace perfectly blends a selection of Thai classics with international dishes. sunset over Laem Yai Bay and the distant islands. 10 www.siamwininganddining.com
Mövenpick Resort Laem Yai Beach Samui is the perfect destination for a dream island wedding, unforgettable honeymoon, anniversary getaway or private birthday party. Exchange vows on Koh Samui’s most beautiful sunset beach as the sky turns to a thousand shades of brilliant colours.
Mövenpick Resort Laem Yai Beach Samui Phone +66 77 421 721 resort.samuilaemyai@moevenpick.com www.moevenpick-hotels.com/samui-laem-yai-beach
Kitchen King Meeting Khun Suraporn Munyuen, Executive Chef at Samui Buri Beach Resort.
This month, Chef Suraporn Munyuen tells us about his life as a top island chef. We spent an evening with him and found out exactly where his passions for cooking have led him – a journey that spans various cultures and countries, and has brought him the title of President of the Samui Chef’s Association. Can you tell us how and why you got into cooking in the first place? That’s easy. It would have been strange if I hadn’t started cooking, as there are so many cooks in my family! I’m from Buriram, and altogether there are ten of us who have followed this profession. So you could say that it was in my blood already. I was surrounded by people who loved to cook and try out all manner of dishes. My brother has been a great influence; he was making Royal Thai cuisine for senior members of the government and people like that. He inspired me with his creativity and with how he went about things. When I was just 14, I started working in kitchens, but it was in a very humble way - I was the guy cleaning the vegetables before they got chopped up! This was in Nakhon Sri Thammarat. Not the best of jobs, perhaps, but this was a start, a foot on the ladder. The rest of my jobs have been a lot more interesting. After training, I worked abroad, in Malaysia, Cambodia and then in Turkey, before returning to Thailand.
You must have learned a lot from being in such different countries… Yes, especially Turkey, where I learned to cook quite a few Turkish dishes. I liked the country a lot and was there for a year, though of course my work involved cooking Thai food rather than anything else. I was in Istanbul, an incredibly diverse and cosmopolitan place, so it was easy to pick up culinary influences there. Malaysia was different again, and I learned how to cook dishes in their styles – I spent a year and a half there. Then there was Cambodia. The food there is quite like Thai food, but with the important difference that it has some French influences too, due to the country having been colonized. I’ve been lucky to have worked in such different places and have learned a lot about cooking, not just Thai food but all kinds, and the various techniques that can be used. Can you tell us about your time here, at Samui Buri? I've been here for eight years. It’s an idyllic spot and our restaurant here, Seetawaree, is right by the sea, making it a beautiful place to work in. Naturally, because it’s a hotel restaurant, it’s open from early morning till late at night, so we see how the restaurant goes through various different changes through the day. For breakfast there’s a
buffet, but you can also order a la carte. All day dining includes a tapas menu, with both Thai and International dishes, and then there are all sorts of things going on in the evenings. For example, Tuesdays, we have an Around Asia Buffet, with Thai dancing from various parts of the country as entertainment. And on Saturdays, we have a barbecue night, which is on the beach, and also includes entertainment. Naturally, that’s a lot of work, but I have a really good team. It’s 20 strong, and they can put on just about anything you care to mention! Can you describe what your typical day is like? I basically start at 8:00 am, and this time is spent checking the food that has come in or that we’re buying at the market. One of the chief tasks is to check the quality and the hygiene, and of course to make sure we get exactly the food that we’re looking for. I also welcome the guests to breakfast – we need to make sure they are happy, so we listen to what they're telling us and act on it. Another important thing that needs to be done is to look at the suppliers and see who is supplying what and where the best value is to be found. I need to sort out menus, special events and look at many things. I take a break at 2:00 pm, returning at 6:00 pm for the second part of the day. There’s a lot of training to be done - I
need to make sure the entire team is up to speed on everything that they need to know. My day normally finishes at 10:00 pm. Can you give us some recommendations from the menu? We have quite an extensive menu, with both Thai and International food. If it’s Thai food you’d like, I'd recommend the goong guladam phad prewwan – tiger prawns in sweet and sour sauce. They're particularly good. Or if you'd like something very traditional, and a favourite of many diners here, I'd suggest the massaman curry, a southern-style delicacy. For International food, we have a whole range of pizzas, many have typical ingredients, but you can also try some more unusual ones, such as our Indian pizza which comes topped with goat’s cheese, yoghurt and chicken. It’s yummier than it might sound! What’s really popular is our seafood basket – it’s to be shared between two people – and includes grilled Phuket lobster, tiger prawns, salmon fillet, blue crab, squid and mussels. We also do other specials every night of the week, so for example, on Saturdays, you can have Australian rib-eye beef and on Sunday, barracuda with baked potato. The specials are very popular.
Even though being chef at Samui Buri keeps you busy, you are also president of the Samui Chef’s Association. Can you tell us a little more about this? Certainly. At the Chef’s Association we aim to keep abreast of what’s going on here on Samui in the catering industry, and to make the island an even better place for dining. Being a chef is a very sociable sort of job and there are many get-togethers. As such, I’m part of various cooking teams on Samui. I also attend many events outside the island, too. This year I was asked to be one of the judges at the Pattaya Food and Hotelier’s Expo. That was good fun, and I also attend the Thaifex world of food exhibition. Samui Buri is owned by the Resotel Group, so I also spend time in the other restaurants on the island that are part of the group. Certainly, it’s a busy life, but it’s one that I enjoy very much!
Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information telephone 0 7744 7275. www.samuiburi.com
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Tropical Pick Durian - The king of fruits.
Distinctive due to its large size, greenish-brown thorn covered husk, and alarming smell, the durian is a well-known fruit to those living in Southeast Asia. To some, the fruit gives off a sweet inviting fragrance, but to others the smell is repulsive. One thing’s for sure whatever the smell is, it’s strong! So strong in fact, it’s been banned from a number of hotels, subways, airports and other public transportation systems throughout the region. Coming from large durian trees, which reach upwards of 25-30 meters, the fruit is harvested about twice a year - the main season being from June to August. Taking about three months to mature after pollination (which is done mostly by cave fruit bats!), the fruit weighs roughly one to three kilograms when cultivated. For most consumers in Thailand, the difference between cultivators is unclear, but is distinguishable by fruit shape. For those first-timers this is hardly a concern, it’s getting past the smell that’s the hard part!
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The difference in opinions when it comes to durians isn’t a blurry divide, and doesn’t range from good to bad. Instead the divide is passionate, pinning people either in deep love for the fruit, or complete and utter disgust. This is due partly because of the taste, but mostly because of the smell. When it comes to taste, after penetrating the husk, you’ll be met with five white slices. Filled with seeds and pulp, some describe the taste as almond custard, others onion sauce, or cream cheese. Yet others describe the taste as rotten. As you bite, it’s juice you expect, yet it’s not quite juicy, and before you know it it’s over and you’re left needing another. Or you find yourself at the shop down the street ordering your favourite dish, extra spicy, because you would rather sweat and cry than have the taste of durian in your mouth for even one more moment. But even getting to the taste is the real task, for what comes before, the daunting smell, sends
many screaming in the other direction. Raw sewage, stale vomit, skunk spray - these are just a few of the descriptions of the durian smell. Yet, others refer to the odour as sweet, possibly roasted nuts of some sort. One thing’s for sure, it is distinctive and can detected from quite a distance, so fear not but keep an eye out (or, I suppose…a nose!) Enough with smell and flavour, let’s talk about how you choose the perfect durian for your taste trial. The truth is you can’t. Since there are an abundant number of species, it’s hard to have one general standard. Also, preference of durians differs among customers. Some prefer the fruit to be soft and aromatic, while others prefer their fruit crisp in texture and mild in flavour. Some prefer their durian to continue to ripen even after the husk has racked (the universal sign a durian is ready to eat) creating a slightly alcoholic taste and extremely distinct smell. So how do you pick? The best way to know you’re at least getting fresh fruit is to look
at the stem, which should be both big and solid. Or, shake the fruit and listen for the rattling sound of seeds inside - an indication the fruit is ripe. Once you’ve picked your durian there are a variety of ways apart from the tourist taste test to eat them. They are often consumed alongside sticky rice and can be seen cooked with vegetables. The seeds can be boiled and eaten as a nut or used as a zest in other dishes. Many products are also sold with a durian flavour from cooking paste to even ice cream. Culturally, the durian is considered to have warming properties, a causation of sweating, which is seen as cleansing. It is also advised to not consume durians with coffee or any alcoholic beverages due to the risk of indigestion. Although opinions largely differ on flavour and taste, one thing can’t be overlooked when it
comes to durians: the health benefits. The fruit contains vitamin C, potassium and amino acids. They are a good source of carbohydrates, proteins, and fats, but do contain high amounts of sugar. Now that you have all the facts, it’s up to you to decide your fate. The aggressive appearance of the large fruit can be frightening, and the smell daunting. Yet, there is a chance the smell may lure you in. Who knows, it could be a moment of love, and you just might find your favourite fruit.
Alison Stephens
Exporting Thai
A look at why Thai food is now one of the world’s most popular cuisines.
Was it a bit of a shock the first time you ate real Thai food? I think so! I can clearly remember when I knew I was coming to Thailand. I’d landed a teaching job, and was due to fly to Bangkok in five or six months. And suddenly I had a new interest. I read all I could about Thailand. The historical stuff didn’t exactly fire me up. But the internet info did. And so did the food. It just so happened that a not-so-far-away pub did Thai food – the manager had a Thai wife. Therefore, every weekend was spent munching through the menu and chatting with said wife about life in Bangkok. But when I got there it was a different story altogether. When it comes to the cuisine of different countries appearing in new places, there’s always a reason. Many thousands of Chinese went to America, in the mid-1800s, as cheap railroad labour, and they took their cuisine with them. ‘Chinatowns’ sprung up in California, where the restaurants catered for a huge local Chinese population. But the first recorded Chinese restaurant aimed at an American audience didn’t open until the 1930s. Exactly the same thing happened after the Second World War, and again with the Vietnam
War, causing a sudden spread of both Japanese and Vietnamese restaurants and food. Thailand, however, has always been an insular nation, unconquered and uncolonised, and it took an entirely different reason for Thai cuisine to appear abroad. True, a small number of American soldiers went back with Thai wives in the ’70s, but nothing like the numbers today. It took universally cheap international air flights to accomplish this. And this didn’t really happen until the last couple of decades of the 20th century. However, it was in 1997 that, along with 30 or so other very pale-skinned English folks, I landed in Bangkok for the first time. I was amazed by the way all my pores exploded with sweat as I stepped off the plane. I was fascinated at the view from the bus of glittering skyscrapers and temples of gold alongside tin sheds and slums. I was taken aback by the smell and humidity. I was baffled by the language. And, most of all, I was terrified by the food! What happened to the mild and creamy curries I had trained on? Where was the nice brown rice, or the aromatic jasmine stuff? Why were
there five different sorts of noodles to pick from? Why were the portions so tiny? Why did everything I ate blister my throat, nose and occasionally my ears? What happened to the baby sweetcorn, the cauliflower and the broccoli, and what were all these weird vegetables? And so it was that for my first three months in Thailand, I lived on a daily diet of chicken fried rice and spring rolls. So much for all that ‘Thai food’ back home! Wandering back towards the point, now that Thailand has firmly established itself as a major tourist destination, ten million or so visitors come here each year. And for a very long time, decades perhaps, holiday romances have led to innumerable ex-bachelors returning home with Thai wives in tow. And so there are two reasons why Thai cuisine has become the world’s third most-popular food. One is that there are already thousands of Thai people living in these countries, and believe me, Thai people just love Thai food! And the other reason is that, with so many visitors having visited Thailand, a great many people abroad do too. Which brings me back to where I began. Khun Po is the owner and chef of a Thai restaurant in
New York. And he cheerfully laments the food he is forced to make. “Sure, I can cook real Thai food when there is a function or party with Thai people but, day to day, in the restaurant, nobody will eat it! Something as simple as a fish deep-fried in garlic and pepper will be only one-third eaten – nobody will go near the head. Anything that smells at all ‘fishy’ will be untouched, so I can’t use fish sauce or dried shrimp. If I use Thai spices then so much is just left behind – even something like kaffir lime leaves will be complained about. I have to substitute what I know people will eat. And that means vegetables they recognise, like carrots, peas, mushrooms, sweetcorn, onion, capsicum peppers and broccoli. And that’s not taking into account all the people that tell me they have peanut, gluten or shellfish allergies!” Do you see what I’m getting at? Thai food is based around the four balanced attributes of sweet, sour, salty and spicy. And, in Thailand, this means very sweet, very sour, very salty and very spicy. I’ve actually seen one foreigner over here shudder and spit out his first mouthful of ‘gaeng som kung’ (sour shrimp soup). Therefore, the wide range of usual Thai flavourings is dulled down for consumption
abroad, otherwise it would simply overcome palates which have been brought up on less volatile mixtures. And to go along with this, Thai restaurants have to cater for what people expect. People expect to see pad Thai and spring rolls on the menu. And then there’s the thing about sticky rice – chef Po recounts that the majority of his diners have got the idea that this is very ‘Thai’ and ask for it on the plate with curries. Not to mention that a great many people expect to use chopsticks on the table too - something which Thai people only ever use for noodles. It’s an acquired taste, that’s for sure. And even though Thai restaurants now span the globe, you’ve probably not eaten real Thai food yet. So get out and experience the real thing – but do take care, you’ve been warned!
Rob De Wet
Sabeinglae Restaurant
Sabienglae restaurants offer traditional fresh seafood and cuisine in an authentic southern Thai style. Come and enjoy our unique dishes, many of which you won’t find elsewhere on the island, in a relaxing atmosphere. An experience to truly complete your holiday.
Sabeinglae Restaurant Sabeinglae Restaurant Sabeinglae Restaurant
The Wharf Samui, Fishermans’s Village Samui Ring Road, Hin Ta Hin Yai Chaweng Ring Road, Wimaan Buri Resort
For reservation please call 077 430 094-5 For reservation please call 077 233 082-3 For reservation please call 077 962 333 www.siamwininganddining.com
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A Slice of Pie The history of the humble pizza.
If I said European heritage what would you think of? Stonehenge, Notre Dame Cathedral, or …pizza? Yes, pizza, and Neapolitan pizza to be more precise. That wonderful pie that you just thought was, well just a pie. More synonymous these days with American culture, we sometimes forget the origins of this wonderfully delicious and widely popular dish. However there are those who wish to keep the old traditions of some dishes alive. In 2009, The European Union ruled that Neapolitan pizza was now a protected part of Europe's food heritage. This meant that anyone wanting to make a true Neapolitan pizza must abide by strict standards, only using buffalo mozzarella cheese and San Marzano tomatoes. Some makers of this pizza even go so far as to only adding the tomatoes and olive oil in a clockwise direction. So when you next take a bite of Neapolitan pizza know you are sampling a bit of European heritage wherever you may be in the world. And the origins of pizza? Well they can be
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traced back to Naples, which even in the 1700s and early 1800s was a thriving coastal town. However it had a large population of working poor or ‘lazzeroni’ as they were known. They needed an inexpensive and convenient food, and so something bearing a striking similarity to the modern pizza was born. One of the first fast foods as it were. Most of the poor had only flour, oil, lard, herbs and tomatoes with which to feed themselves and their families. With the pies that they made there was also no need for utensils. The popularity of these pizzas spread beyond the poor, and many visitors to Naples during this time sought out the poorer areas of town in search of them. In fact even royalty sought out these pizza makers. The story is told that King Umberto and Queen Margherita, while visiting Naples in 1889, had tired of the fine French cuisine they were being served and wanted something different. Having heard of the pizzas they wished to try them out for themselves, so a variety of pizzas was ordered from the best baker in the city. It is said the queen particularly
liked the pie called pizza mozzarella, which was a pizza topped with soft white cheese, red tomatoes and green basil, the colours of the Italian flag. Legend has it that from that time onwards the pizza was then known as pizza Margherita. There are some pizza purists who believe there are only two types of pizza. One is the ‘Margherita’. The other is the ‘Marinara’, so called because it was the traditional food prepared for the fishermen by their wives on their return from fishing trips. Some establishments serve only these two types of pizzas which count amongst the favourites of Italians to this day. Pizza first arrived in the United States along with the first Italian immigrants, in the late 1800s, and was very popular among the large Italian populations in major cities such as New York and Chicago. At this time, pizza was sold for a couple of cents by vendors who walked up and down the streets with a metal washtub of pizzas on their heads. It was the perfect cheap food
for the labourers at that time. Noticing the popularity of the pizza, cafes and small restaurants also started to offer them to their Italian-American customers. The first pizzeria in the United States is said to have opened in New York City on Spring Street, Manhattan, in 1905. Formerly known as ‘Lombardi’, it is still there to this day under the new name of ‘Patriaca Della Pizza’ and still uses the original pizza oven. During World War II American soldiers stationed in Italy often frequented local bakeries in search of cheap and satisfying food as an alternative to their meagre rations. It was in these local stores that they came across pizza and really acquired a taste for it. When they returned home from the war they brought with them this love for pizza. The taste for pizza now spread beyond the Italian community. It was no longer seen as an ethnic treat, but as part of the American culture of Hollywood, blue jeans and rock and roll of the fifties. It was a fun and fast food. This ‘Americanisation’ of the pizza spread its popularity around the world. Including,
ironically Italy in which until now pizza hadn’t been particularly popular. In the 1950’s with the increasing popularity of pizza, chains began springing up around the United States. In 1954, Shakey’s Pizza was established in California and Pizza Hut was founded in Kansas, in 1958. Today pizza chains such as Domino’s and Pizza Hut can be seen worldwide, offering some very unique regional toppings. I’m sure all the purists are grimacing at some of the inventive if unappealing toppings that you can find around the world these days. From a shrimp and mayo roll crust pizza in Japan, to fish and chips pizza in Indonesia. Or how about an Indian inspired pie, palak paneer and butter chicken? No, well, there’s always a taste of history with the classic Neapolitan pizza.
Natalie Hughes
Experience the very best in authentic Thai cuisine at Chef Chom’s Thai Restaurant at The Tongsai Bay Chef Chom's serves truly authentic Thai cuisine with an emphasis on local southern Thai cuisine. Wherever possible, ingredients are sourced locally and dishes are prepared from scratch. This real Thai taste is the pride of the kitchen, and dishes are not 'watered down', the taste of Chef Chom's food is just the way Thais would have it.
Chef Chom’s is open daily for dinner from 7pm to 10pm. Tel: +66 (0) 77 245-480 www.tongsaibay.co.th
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The Sweeter Side of Life A look at some traditional Thai desserts.
If you think Thai cuisine is all about spice, spice and more spice, then think again. Think more along the lines of sweet, sweet and even sweeter. Thai desserts are everywhere you look. Eaten at any time of the day: after a meal, between meals, possibly even as a meal. If you have a sweet tooth you are in the right place. The Thais have had a love for their ‘kanom wan Thai’ (Thai desserts) for hundreds of years, with some favourites being mentioned in famous works of literature. Go to any market and you’re bound to see a varied assortment of desserts; colourful jellies, custards, sticky rice treats and coconut milk dishes. It is impossible to mention them all in one article so here’s a little taster, if you’ll pardon the pun. Thai desserts are made of five basic ingredients, coconut flesh, coconut cream, palm sugar, rice flour, and eggs. You’ll find colourful displays of all kind of desserts in the local markets, temple fairs, street side stalls as well as in the high end department stores. One type that you will see on regular display are bundles of wrapped desserts. But one word of warning: not all the bundles are sweet. Some may contain curry or pork so if you’re after a sweet treat it’s best to always ask the vendor, ‘wan mai?’, ‘is it sweet?’ One of my
favourites is khanom bing (sweet sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves). Sticky rice is cooked with coconut milk and sugar and is then moulded around bananas before the banana parcels are grilled. It is quite a filling dessert, as a lot of Thai desserts can be, so it makes a great mid-morning accompaniment to your cup of tea. The banana is quite sweet and the grilled banana leaf gives it a slightly smoky flavour. On the theme of using nature as the serving dish for the dessert, keep an eye out for grilled bamboo poles. These hollow poles are filled with a sweet sticky rice and thick coconut syrup, known as khao lam. You may also see the individual sellers motoring up and down the street on their scooters, carrying a basket on the back of their seat with the bamboo sticks poking out.
sandwich? In Thailand that literally means a sandwich. The ice-cream is served in white bread or a hot dog bun with all the toppings. One of the most colourful desserts you will see in Thailand is luk chup (mung bean candy). This is a Thai adaptation of a Portuguese almond snack that was introduced to the country as early as the 1600s. Mung beans are boiled with sugar and coconut milk until a paste is formed. This is then kneaded and moulded into miniature fruit and vegetables. Colourful jellies are then applied. They really are a work of art, almost too good to eat. But all the same they are delightfully sweet and light when you just want a little something.
Thais will buy this dessert on special occasions. However it can also be found as a topping on other dishes such as on sweet Thai crepes, khanom buang, along with meringue which you can see at every fair and festival. Another type of crepe, roti is available everywhere – with its origin in India, the Thais have also taken it and adapted it. It is hugely popular and roti carts can be found everywhere. The rotis can be filled with bananas, or chocolate or just plain. The roti dough is quickly flipped and banged into a pancake shape and then cooked on a hotplate on the cart.
Another favourite that you find on the streets of Samui as well as in some restaurants is I-dtim maphrao (coconut ice-cream). ‘I-dtim’ is the Thai rendering of the pronunciation of ice-cream and ‘maphrao’ is coconut. Mobile ice-cream vendors can be found throughout Thailand.
It may come as a surprise but one of the most important figures in the history of Thai desserts was in fact a foreigner. Marie Guimar was of Portuguese and Japanese parentage, and lived in Thailand. During the reign of King Thaisa (1709-1733) she was put in charge of the royal household, and taught the Thai staff her knowledge on cooking, and in particular her knowledge about making Portuguese desserts.
Since Thai desserts require a great deal of preparation restaurants usually offer the simpler but no less tasty dishes, such as pumpkin in coconut milk, (fuk tong gang buad) or tapioca in coconut milk. We are not talking about the tapioca that you remember from your school days; this is much tastier and a staple of desserts throughout Asia. Tapioca is a root vegetable but completely gluten free, so for those who are gluten intolerant this is a wonderful treat.
They sell their ice-cream from large stainless-steel vats. There are all sorts of toppings including corn kernels, nuts and condensed milk. Or why not try an ice-cream
One such dessert of Portuguese origins is foy tong, a dessert made of eggs and sugar and of a thread like quality. Thong means gold so it is thought to bring good luck and prosperity. The
Whether it is served on its own in coconut milk or with added mango or indeed any tropical fruit it makes a delicious dessert. A lot of the desserts in restaurants focus on fruit and so
while sweet, the sweetness comes from the fruit. Fruit sorbets, with an emphasis on coconut and mango are very popular. Of course a staple on the menu of any Thai restaurant is the classic khao niew mamuang (mango and sticky rice). This is a delicious dish and when mangoes are in season in Thailand, beautifully sweet. Slices of mango are served on a bed of sticky rice over which coconut syrup is poured. During the mango season you can also find this dish at local markets and high end department stores alike. My favourite Thai dessert has to be the unique combining of flavours in khanom moa gang, Thai custard set in a baking tray and sprinkled with fried red onions. Custard and onions, I know you don’t believe me but it works. So go on treat yourself and take a bite out of the sweeter side of Thai life.
Natalie Hughes
Authentic Thai Cuisine California Cuisine Succulent BBQ Seafood 16 www.siamwininganddining.com
Greens Mean Scenes The Santiburi Country Club means a fabulous view and a great meal – as well as golf!
We take it all very seriously. It’s actually quite an art – writing about food. And it’s certainly not all about eating out at fantastic restaurants on an expense account. But, one way and another, here at Wining & Dining, we get to see the best spots on the island to dine in the evening. But that’s only a part of the story. There are also a hundred other great places to go during the day. And this is a story about one of them, and it’s probably got one of the most spectacular views on all of Samui. It’s the clubhouse at Santiburi Samui Country Club, over on the north coast in Maenam. This is actually a part of ‘Santiburi Beach Resort, Golf & Spa’, to give the nearby resort its full title, and it’s one of the island’s longest-established 5-star resorts. Years ago, when everyone seemed to be grabbing as much of Chaweng as they could, Khun Santi Bhirombhakdi had other ideas. Back in those days, Maenam was a tiny village, and when it was built, there was hardly anything on either side of the resort. But Khun Santi has plenty of experience at anticipating trends – after all he also owns Boon Rawd Brewery (among other businesses) and if that name isn’t familiar, then its most famous export certainly will be – Singha beer.
In 2003, Santiburi opened a tournament standard, 18-hole, par 72 golf course with driving range and putting green, up in the hills a little way away from the resort. And to go with it, there was the Santiburi Country Club. If this brings to mind images of bow ties and cocktail dresses, then just remember where you are! There’s no need for formal dress here, and even the golfers follow a dress code that’s unheard of at most other championship courses. The clubhouse is just as laid back, although you won’t be distracted by its décor . . . because what will take your breath away is the view. The road up to here is twisty but short, and you’ll be quite surprised by just how much you’ve risen. The view is stunning – a complete vista of the whole five or six kilometres of Maenam and Koh Pha-Ngan right in front of you. And it’s not just the view. The course here is a little unusual in that it’s been built on quite a slope, and it’s all been very cunningly put together by means of a series of descending terraces. The areas around the greens are beautifully wooded and landscaped, and tended with almost as much care as the greens themselves. And this means that, sitting by a
window, the prettiest of lushly tropical foregrounds drops away from you into that great panorama we just talked about. Which brings me to the subject of breakfast. It’s a good guess that the vast majority of visitors to Samui take breakfast at their resort. If it’s not actually included in the cost, then you certainly don’t want to go running about looking for eats, first thing in the morning. But why not? Not surprisingly the golf, and therefore the clubhouse, is geared to the hours of daylight, and the clubhouse is open at 6:00 am each morning. And let me tell you that one of the most memorable of all Samui experiences is sitting with coffee and toast as the sun comes up. Sunsets are ten-a-penny. But in this spot, way up high and with a million miles of sea and sky around you, this just has to be the most spectacular breakfast venue on all of Samui. Early birds take note! By the way, it’s proper fresh-ground coffee. And there’s also a choice of fruit juices and smoothies. There’s a full à la carte breakfast menu if you want to pick ’n’ mix. But there are also four set breakfasts, too. The ‘Scottish
Breakfast’ (the manager here, Derek McKenzie, is a Scot!) is the biggie, with a heaped plateful of goodies to help you loosen your belt. And there’s an American alternative and a matching Euro version, plus a Thai offering too, if you fancy it. The breakfasts are actually on offer all day, but there are plenty of alternatives on the menu if you don’t make it in time for sun-up. Although, as the affable Derek will point out, this is a golfer’s menu. Everything closes at sundown, so don’t expect to see any up-market dinner offerings. And, of course, being a tropical location, very few people like to eat a big meal during the day – it’s just too hot and humid. And so you’ll find a good range of salads. Likewise the sandwiches are excellent. But the burgers are outstanding – they are specially made, locally for the kitchen, and not bought-in frozen like so many other places. And, not surprisingly, there’s a wide range of refreshing beverages available, including soft drinks, beers, wines and spirits.
9-hole course, and you don’t need to wear golf shoes or be a member. The fees go down after 3:30 pm, and every Wednesday, for the entire day, you can play at these lower rates, too. If this has got your interest, then give it a go! You’ll find the Santiburi Country Club well signposted from the main ring-road, especially at Soi 5 and Soi 7. Once you come away from the main road it’s easy, as there seem to be signposts every hundred metres or so! It’s not a name that’s on everyone’s lips, and it’s not quite fine-dining, but when it comes down to it, this is one of the best-kept secrets for not just a panoramic breakfast, but a great afternoon out, too!
Rob De Wet For further information, telephone 0 7742 1700-8. www.santiburi.com
By the way, if you actually fancy a quick round of golf while you’re here, as well as the full course and the serious options, there’s also a
The restaurant where every evening becomes a memorable occasion.
A truly remarkable experience for all the senses Location: Ban Taling Ngam Reservation: 0 7742 8200 E-mail: reservation@thesunsetbeachresort.com www.thesunsetbeachresort.com
For reservations please contact: Anantara Bophut Resort & Spa, Koh Samui Tel: +66 (0) 77 428 300 Email: bophutsamui@anantara.com Skype: bophutsamui www.siamwininganddining.com 17
A Wine Lover’s Paradise Classy wines abound at Chaweng’s quintessential Wine Oasis. If there is one noteworthy restaurant on Samui that should not be missed by discerning diners who profoundly love their wine, it’s Wine Oasis. It’s situated in the vibrant area of central Chaweng Beach Road, a place I have heard described as Samui’s beating heart. Which is a description I like, because it certainly is pulsating with nightlife. And in the midst of the bright lights, baffling sights, beating sounds and beautiful people, there is an oasis to be found a wine oasis. The enticing wine list in this enchanting restaurant is, in my humble opinion, the finest selection of wines, at the best prices, I have ever seen on Samui. (Or any other destination in the Kingdom, for that matter. And please believe me, with my hotel background, I’ve seen a few wine lists.) There are, obviously, some great wines listed at many of the island’s 5-star hotels and resorts, along with the 5-star prices you would expect. And indeed, there are some reasonably priced (dubious quality) wines available in most restaurants and bars. But uniquely, Wine Oasis has carefully chosen exceptionally fine wines, which are available at prices to make you smile, and glow with gastric anticipation. And not only is the wine list extremely tempting to any wine enthusiast, but also, all the other crucial components needed to complete an exemplary dining experience, are deliciously in place. Namely, the friendly service, mouth-watering food, seductive ambience, and expert wine service techniques (even down to the use of Riedel glassware, the very best wine glasses available). A relaxed garden setting creates the cool ambience - with great attention to detail, soft lighting, and the grape vines growing above your head are a nice touch. The convivial service team seems to have a near telepathic level of waiting skills. And best of all for the wine lover, the wines are treated with great respect. All the wine service fundamentals that you would expect from well-trained staff are a given. Which makes for a very relaxing evening, most conducive to sipping good wines and enjoying the company of your fellow diners. 18 www.siamwininganddining.com
Wine Oasis is the brainchild of Napasoon Chayuntaradilk. Khun Laem, as he is better known, has explored the great wineries of the world, a marvellous perk of his profession as a Captain with Thai Airways. But spend an evening at Wine Oasis, which Khun Laem and his lovely wife own and run, and you will soon discover that this talented man’s true passion is wine. Khun Laem’s extensive knowledge and informed insight into the wine world are impressive. He gained his Advanced Certificate from London's prestigious Wine & Spirits Education Trust. And most gratifyingly, his import company brings the wines he loves to Thailand - and beautifully chosen examples too, from most of the major wine producing regions of the world. Discerning wine lovers on Samui will eagerly embrace this restaurant once they realize just how good the wines here are. Whether followers of more traditional old world classics from places like Bordeaux and Tuscany, or up-and-coming-new-world-wine fans, who appreciate the ascending winemaking prowess in countries like Australia and Chile, the wine list reads like an exuberant wine buff’s bucket list! Stand out choices for me, are the Italian red wines, the Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand, shining examples from the wonderful Barossa Valley, modern white wine blends from California and South Australia, classic Champagne and fine dry Prosseco. Being a wine connoisseur, Khun Laem fully understands that the food should being worthy of the wonderful wines diners find themselves gleefully quaffing. And the Asian fusion cuisine (and intricate tapas) delivers on its promise in the imaginative contemporary menu. From deliciously fresh and light appetizers, like the smoked duck fillet and orange salad, green papaya salad with seafood, and Oasis salmon tartare, to the yummy tom yam lobster ravioli soup, Italian cold cuts and exquisitely presented Thai shrimp cakes. Main dishes include temptations such as lamb cutlet massaman (a winning combination of east
meets west), a comprehensive selection of red-wine-friendly Italian pasta favourites, and the scrumptious sea bass with paneng sauce (which is tropical dining personified). The manly red meat choices, like the grilled rib eye steak with ratatouille and baked potato, Australian beef tenderloin with garlic mash potatoes, sautéed bok choy and mushroom sauce, and the pink roasted lamb cutlet with roast potatoes cashew nut crunch and rosemary jus, are all persuasively singing out for a big brawny red wines to accompany them in a duodenal dance. (And plenty of such wines are available.) Wine Oasis is the kind of restaurant that, once there, you will want to stretch out your evening for as long as possible. And unsurprisingly, they offer an imaginative and innovative dessert menu, with a big nod to traditional Thai sweet flavours. Waiting for salivating foodies, are melt-in-your-mouth sweet items: mango with sticky rice and coconut sauce, pumpkin egg custard, banana in coconut milk, and the decadent, warm chocolate tart with vanilla ice cream, which bursts open with chocolate lava after the first spoonful. Wine Oasis’s culinary delights never cease to surprise. On my last visit, served together with a selection of soft cheeses and some tasty savoury snacks (perfect for wine accompaniment), there were some gorgeously tempting fresh figs. A fruit I love, and until now, I never found in Koh Samui. “Where did you find the figs?” I nearly asked. But then the penny dropped. Khun Laem is a Captain with Thai Airways – they came from the Middle East, of course!
Peter James For reservations or further information telephone, 0 848 361 855. www.samuiwine.com
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The villagers used to gather round a single television set, placed out in the lane that runs by the beach, for all to watch; it was a convivial time and a convivial place. Out across the water, the fishing boats would come in and moor, bringing back their catch. Back then, nobody had any idea that Samui would be famous; the villagers just thought that life would go on as it had, with its traditional ways of fishing and growing crops. That soon was to change, and the rapidity of that change took everyone by surprise. A few decades later this part of Bophut still has its little lane, but all the houses either side have morphed into shops, bars, restaurants and hotels. Nowadays, the expansion seems complete and the area caters exclusively to holidaymakers. But as if harking back to the village’s more traditional past, one of the best-known restaurants here, Krua Bophut, is housed not in a modern building but a beautiful teak house. You'll easily spot it as you walk along the beach road at Fisherman’s Village – look out for its spruce appearance and clean lines, and the dark wood that’s used throughout.
Magic Alambic Rum Distillery on Samui
Pure alcohol made from a selection of fine fruits and sugarcane brewed French-style.
Choeng Mon
Nathon
Visit our Garden Bar for tasting and buy some bottles of rum. Tel: 0 91 816 7416, 0 7741 9023 E-mail: ludovic.trantoul@gmail.com www.rhumdistillerie.com 20 www.siamwininganddining.com
Taling Ngam
Koh Samui Magic Alambic
Baan Thale Baan Bang Kao
Exquisite Experience Krua Bophut serves up wonderfully-flavoured dishes, in an old-style teak house right on the beach. At the entrance, there’s no hard sell, and once inside, you're treated exceptionally well by the welcoming staff. In the sala, you’ll see plenty of antiques that show how life used to be in the last century. Krua Bophut is tastefully decorated throughout, not surprisingly as it’s run by Bo Phut Spa and Resort, a major resort, just a few hundred metres further along the coast in the direction of Maenam. At Krua Bophut you can dine in the opulent sala – it’s always a treat in itself to sit in such an aesthetic dining room – but you'll be highly tempted by the outside areas. You can choose the terrace outside the restaurant, which is as beautifully kept up as the interior, or you can dine right on the beach itself. Sunset cocktails seem all the better when you’re looking out across the sea to neighbouring Koh Pha-Ngan, watching the slow appearance of the stars. By the way, wherever you sit, there’s no loud music at all, just some gentle background melodies that add to the sense of being in a relaxing place. Lighting is similarly kept low with candles on the tables, adding to the romantic atmosphere of the restaurant.
Wait staff are very welcoming and wear traditional Thai dress. If Krua Bophut seems to be anchored in sophisticated traditions, this also goes for the food, too. The chef has assembled many of the typical Thai treats that have made Thai food so appealing the world over. You'll find all manner of delicacies on the menu, and if you speak to the restaurant’s Food & Beverage Manager, Khun Jirawan, she’ll tell you that it comprises some 100 dishes. That’s extensive by any restaurant’s standards, and if you’re a newcomer to Thai food, the staff will be happy to help you make an informed choice. In addition, dishes are marked according to their degree of spiciness. Since Krua Bophut is located right on the beach, the restaurant naturally has many seafood dishes, with local fish bought daily from the market. There’s plenty of choice for meat-lovers, however, with the excellent menu providing a whole range of dishes. Local herbs are also used, wherever appropriate, with the chef choosing ingredients such as coriander, kaffir lime leaves, basil and lemon grass. The many herbs give the food a highly exquisite taste.
Start with some of the delicious appetizers, for example, baked New Zealand mussels with Thai herbs cooked in a clay pot, or deep fried soft crab with garlic and pepper. If you like your food a little more spicy, try the beef salad, a typical Thai-style treat. For mains, you're again spoiled for choice. Feast on sweet and sour chicken, or enjoy stir-fried duck with mushroom and pineapple. Or how about the stir-fried beef with black pepper? Also highly popular is the fried soft shell crab, which has been slightly curried to give it spiciness. The chef has various ways of presenting white snapper, a staple of Thailand, with one of the most satisfying being the simplest: the dish is steamed with soy sauce and herbs. But don’t worry if you're unsure what to have and are new to Thai food. There are two special set menus that contain a range of favourite Thai dishes for you to enjoy, such as papaya salad, tom yum, white snapper and duck curry.
A Unique Koh Samui Experience at The Farmer
Krua Bophut stocks a nice collection of wines with something to suit every budget, and you can enjoy reds and whites that have been carefully chosen to go with the food. There’s a choice of both Old World and New World wines. Prices for both food and wine are amazingly reasonable, adding to customer satisfaction. The restaurant is very child-friendly and if you come as a family, your little ones will be made equally welcome too. They’ll appreciate the outdoor setting just as much as you will, though perhaps for different reasons – the beach here is sandy and good for games and running about, though you'll still of course need to keep an eye on them. You can also come for lunch, as Krua Bophut’s open from 1:00 pm – a great place to take a break from the beach or your shopping.
honey, you'll be able to choose something that really engages your taste buds. Krua Bophut gets many repeat customers and it’s one of those places that leave you with wonderful memories. Whether you come across it by chance, or have it recommended by your hotel manager or another holidaymaker, a dinner here is a totally satisfying way to spend an evening.
Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information telephone 0 7743 0030 or 0 7724 5035. www.kruabophut.com
No dinner here is complete without dessert, and Krua Bophut has a selection that’s guaranteed to please. From traditional Thai desserts through to more international ones such as fried banana with ice-cream and
Exclusive Lunch Promotion at The Farmer from 12:00 to 15:00 every day
The Farmer Restaurant & Bar is the only restaurant on Samui offering a unique natural ambience, set amid paddy fields and green meadows. It is perfect for a relaxed lunch, or dinner under the twinkling stars. Visit The Farmer and experience the real meaning of “Back to Nature” whilst enjoying the best of local Thai, Western and seafood dishes.
Farmer’s Duck
Khantoke (for 2 people)
Crispy fried duck served with 5 colour rice, herbal sauce, gourd soup and fresh tropical fruit. 290 Baht ++
Chicken satay, spring rolls, tom yam goong, laap (minced chicken salad with Thai herbs), choice of curry (either green, red, massaman or paneang), stir fried vegetables. Served with 5 colour rice. 990 Baht ++
The Farmer Restaurant & Bar 1/26 Moo 4, Maenam, Koh Samui Tel: 077 447 222, 077 247 979, 083 092 2632 www.thefarmerrestaurantsamui.com email: info@thefarmerrestaurantsamui.com Free transfer for dinner guests Nathon - Maenam - Bophut. Other areas 300 Baht return. Для гостей из районов Nathon - Maenam - Bophut - трансфер бесплатный. Гостям из других районов острова мы возвращаем 300 батт от стоимости такси.
TOP TEN 2011 www.tripadvisor.com
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Silavadee Pool Spa Resort
Silavadee Pool Spa Resort presents a wide range of restaurants and bars featuring a variety of cuisines to suit all tastes. Premium cocktails and selected wines are also available in each outlet.
STAR
A stunning rooftop bar where you can sip our signature cocktails and enjoy some snacks while watching the sunset or gazing at the stars above. Open: 17.00-23.30hrs.
The Height
Sun Deck
Wine and Cigar Lounge
Oering an extensive menu of delightful Thai cuisine, the restaurant has both air-conditioned and open air seating options, all with stunning views of the surrounding sea. Open: 17.00-22.30hrs.
Exclusive dining on the deck with breathtaking views.Enjoy International delights in a romantic setting with your loved one. Please reserve in advance.
Refreshments, cocktails and snacks with a selection of premium wines and cigars to enjoy the breathtaking view.
Open:18.00-22.30hrs.
Open: 17.00-23.30hrs
Silavadee Pool Spa Resort 208/66 Moo4, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84310 Thailand Tel: (+66) 077 960 555 Fax: (+66) 077 960 055 www. Silavadeeresort.com www.siamwininganddining.com
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Monday - Cowboy Steak Night Assorted BBQ Meat Buffet Entertainment: The Barge Band Tuesday, Friday and Saturday Lobster Basket Set: 3,300 for 2 persons Seafood Basket Set: 2,300 for 2 persons Inclusive of Salad, Soup and Side dishes Entertainment: Duo Band Wednesday - Hawaiian Seafood Night Variety of Fresh Seafood & BBQ Meat Buffet Entertainment: Polynesian Dance and The Barge Band Sunday Chef Creation Set Dinner and A La Carte Menu
No visit to Samui is complete until you have dined at The Barge
Rice Barge Authentic Thai Cuisine
Fine Beach & Hillside Dining at Samui's Newest Venue Quality Thai, Seafood & International Dishes The Ultimate Samui Dining Experience!
The Barge Nora Buri's Signature Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: thebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com
Chaweng Beach Road Chaweng North
It’s all happening at Nora Beach Resort & Spa Tuesday Night- Siam Kingdom Thai Night. We invite you to experience a variety of traditional Thai dishes. Price THB 850 per person. Thursday Night - East Meets West. Enjoy our chef’s special buffet creations. Price THB 950 net per person. Children 6-12 years old half price. Entertainment: Polynesian Show & Mariposa Duo. Thai Cooking Class Learn how to cook 3 authentic Thai dishes with our Thai Chef. Price THB 1,500 per person Inclusive of chef hat, apron, certificate and recipe. Fruit Carving Class Price THB 1,500 per person. Inclusive of chef hat, apron and certificate. Daily Happy Hour Beverages Special offer 50% off (Except wine, Corona beer, all spirits by the bottle) Pool Bar 1.00 pm - 2.00 pm & 4.00 pm - 5.00 pm. Prasuthon Restaurant 6.00 pm - 7.00 pm. Lobby Bar 7.00 pm - 8.00 pm & 10.00 pm - 11.00 pm. Romantic Private Dining Dining on the beach with private chef and waiter/waitress. Thai menu THB 5,000 per couple. International menu THB 6,000 per couple. Advance reservation required
For further information please telephone 0 7742 9400 E-mail: reservation@norabeachresort.com www.norabeachresort.com
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