Dining: Brasserie MON CHOU CHOU

Brasserie MON CHOU CHOU

A Moveable Feast

“If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris … then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast,” —Ernest Hemingway.

By Janis Turk

Forgive me, Papa Hemingway, but I prefer to say, “If you’re lucky enough to have eaten in Paris… the memory of each meal stays with you.” For you needn’t live in France to experience the joy of French cooking.

As a travel and food writer, cookbook photographer, and epicure, I’ve visited France more times than I can count, and like the French, I can be a bit fussy about food. After dining at so many enchanting bistros and brasseries, I’ve formed and fossilized opinions about what constitutes really good ones.

So even when three native Frenchmen, all popular San Antonio restauranteurs, opened Brasserie Mon Chou Chou at Pearl last December, I was initially skeptical. But because of the European travel ban, I knew I wouldn’t be sliding into my favorite booth at Le Grand Colbert, Paris, anytime soon. So one Sunday, my husband and I dropped by Mon Chou Chou for lunch, figuring it’s the closest French restaurant to our home in Seguin. (Little-known fact: The name Seguin appears on the side of the Eiffel tower. True!).

As I beheld Mon Chou Chou’s sidewalk tables, classic bistro chairs, and boxwood topiaries out front, I was transported in memory to Montparnasse. And by the time I stepped inside and saw a rolling cheese cart and a Carrara-topped cabinet stacked high with crusty bread, I was très impressionné (impressed!)

Brasserie Mon Chou Chou is the well-designed and refined recipe of Chef Laurent Réa, Philippe Placé, and Jérôme Sérot, friends, food lovers who have known one another for nearly two decades and collaborated at several successful Southerleigh Hospitality Group eateries. From Strasbourg, Chartres, and Lyon, respectively, each is familiar with traditional French foods, artisan breads, flawless pastries, and fine wines. They knew steak frites (shoestring fries with perfectly seared steak), East Coast oysters, and French onion soup were sure to be crowd-pleasers—and they are.

Intimidated by a French restaurant? Don’t be. You don’t have to like escargot to love this place.

Although Mon Chou Chou may impress the Mademoiselle, it’s not posh, and you don’t need a passport. Brasseries in France often have white tablecloths, stained-glass ceilings, and chandeliers, but Mon Chou Chou is far less fussy: a perfect fit for Pearl. Like all authentic brasseries, it serves simple dishes from various regions in France and offers a full bar. From mid-morning to late night, the place is bustling and busy. With a bar by the entrance lit by gleaming brass French light fixtures, little round tables, and octagon-tile floors, its breezy ambience is Parisian but not pretentious. Bright and casual for coffee midmorning, sunny and lively at lunch, and elegant at night in low light, Mon Chou Chou is a moveable feast.

Menu favorites include rotisserie chicken, beef tenderloin, a hamburger topped with gruyere cheese, lamb chops, mussels in white wine sauce, and an Alsatian treat: veal and pork sausages with potato puree. Sides include baked

macaroni and cheese, glazed baby carrots, and French green beans. Try a charcuterie board starter before diving into the rich lobster bisque topped with a poof of golden flaky pastry.

Missing Paris on Bastille Day this July? Why not settle for a celebratory dinner at Mon Chou Chou, as we did, starting with classic cocktails, like a French 75 and a Sazerac, followed by the signature menu item: Sandwich au Fromage Raclette served tableside. If you order nothing else, get this. The server brings a half-wheel of cheese whose center has been melted until, scooped out, it cascades in glorious gooey wonder onto a baguette. Enjoy delightful dishes of salmon with Béarnaise sauce and branzino bathed in brown butter with capers. For dessert, try a lemon tart with fresh raspberries, Tarte Citron, and a coffee and chocolate and sea-salt caramel pot de crème, served with strong coffee. Sugar cubes wrapped in paper were marked with a simple logo, like everything else in the restaurant. (So French). A Texassized coffee mug, rather than a traditional cup and saucer, was the only touch that felt like a misstep.

“Mon Chou Chou” is a French term of endearment meaning, “my sweet.” With “la vie en rose” blushcolored walls, glimmers of brass, gleams of white Carrara marble, and “come as you are” French confidence, Mon Chou Chou is SA’s newest sweet spot. It’s also just what stranded world travelers needed this year: a fabulous way to enjoy a taste of France without leaving Texas.

A “moveable feast” refers to a holy day or feast day in the church year, like Easter, which falls annually on a different date, changing with the lunar calendar. Mon Chou Chou’s menu also moves with the seasons to serve the freshest fare, while remaining grounded in Old World tradition and the chef’s grandmother’s recipes.

Brasserie Mon Chou Chou 312 Pearl Parkway, (210) 469-3743 BrasserieMonChouChou.com

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Q&A

How far back does your connection to the art scene in San Antonio go? I grew up in

San Antonio and my dad was a creative director. I was definitely inspired by him and his peers. I started going to CASSA (Communication Arts Society of San Antonio) events and seeing all these creative and fun artists at work. That was my earliest connection to “the scene.” It was the eighties.

You’ve been in business a long time and the gallery feels very fresh. What do you

attribute that success to? Not getting in the way and embracing change. The business starts to evolve and take on its own identity, but the biggest attribute to any success we have had is our salon-style hanging. It allows us to hang works of art that may not be for everyone, but that is a big part of the “fresh” ingredient.

You recently moved locations. How was that? As it turns out the art world can be pretty engaging from six feet away. Basically the new location has giant windows and lots of traffic. We have our bright lights on a timer so you can window shop without ever walking in. We also placed a QR code on our door to access our hours and all the works of art, which we update each Sunday.

Who are your artists? They are from all over. Many of our artists have been with us since we started fifteen years ago. Those are special relationships whether the market is hot or cold. I admire artists who paint through the highs and lows. I have always been attracted to artists where you can see that consistency in their career and their body of work.

Are you doing art shows? Not really, because we are not hanging an elaborate display for any single artist. Each quarter we take an artist from our roster and lessen their work on our salon walls while we feature another, then that rotates. We also invite other galleries and artists to participate in our quarterly salons to keep our rotation fresh. We have hosted smaller 8 to 12 person groups and have really enjoyed the intimacy and engagement of small gatherings.

Tell us about your partnership with The St. Anthony Hotel? We have two partnerships

within the hotel. The first, Gallery On the Park, is a covered loggia open for breakfast. The north facing windows overlooking Travis Park provide amazing natural light for viewing art. Our second partnership is called The Ballroom Gallery where a show is conceived and exhibited in the corridor adjacent to the ballrooms and Peacock Alley.

Robby Felder, Owner

2516 N. Main Avenue | San Antonio, Texas 78212 | @feldergallery | feldergallery.com | 361-944-0167