DINING
Brasserie
MON CHOU CHOU A Moveable Feast “If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris … then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast,” —Ernest Hemingway. By Janis Turk
Forgive me, Papa Hemingway, but I prefer to say, “If you’re lucky enough to have eaten in Paris… the memory of each meal stays with you.” For you needn’t live in France to experience the joy of French cooking. As a travel and food writer, cookbook photographer, and epicure, I’ve visited France more times than I can count, and like the French, I can be a bit fussy about food. After dining at so many enchanting bistros and brasseries, I’ve formed and fossilized opinions about what constitutes really good ones. So even when three native Frenchmen, all popular San Antonio restauranteurs, opened Brasserie Mon Chou Chou at Pearl last December, I was initially skeptical. But because of the European travel ban, I knew I wouldn’t be sliding into my favorite booth at Le Grand Colbert, Paris, anytime soon. So one Sunday, my husband and I dropped by Mon Chou Chou for lunch, figuring it’s the closest French restaurant to our home in Seguin. (Little-known fact: The name Seguin appears on the side of the Eiffel tower. True!). As I beheld Mon Chou Chou’s sidewalk tables, classic bistro chairs, and boxwood topiaries out front, I was transported in memory to Montparnasse. And by the time I stepped inside and saw a rolling cheese cart and a Carrara-topped cabinet stacked high with crusty bread, I was très impressionné (impressed!) Brasserie Mon Chou Chou is the well-designed and refined recipe of Chef Laurent Réa, Philippe Placé, and Jérôme 104
sawoman.com
Sérot, friends, food lovers who have known one another for nearly two decades and collaborated at several successful Southerleigh Hospitality Group eateries. From Strasbourg, Chartres, and Lyon, respectively, each is familiar with traditional French foods, artisan breads, flawless pastries, and fine wines. They knew steak frites (shoestring fries with perfectly seared steak), East Coast oysters, and French onion soup were sure to be crowd-pleasers—and they are. Intimidated by a French restaurant? Don’t be. You don’t have to like escargot to love this place. Although Mon Chou Chou may impress the Mademoiselle, it’s not posh, and you don’t need a passport. Brasseries in France often have white tablecloths, stained-glass ceilings, and chandeliers, but Mon Chou Chou is far less fussy: a perfect fit for Pearl. Like all authentic brasseries, it serves simple dishes from various regions in France and offers a full bar. From mid-morning to late night, the place is bustling and busy. With a bar by the entrance lit by gleaming brass French light fixtures, little round tables, and octagon-tile floors, its breezy ambience is Parisian but not pretentious. Bright and casual for coffee midmorning, sunny and lively at lunch, and elegant at night in low light, Mon Chou Chou is a moveable feast. Menu favorites include rotisserie chicken, beef tenderloin, a hamburger topped with gruyere cheese, lamb chops, mussels in white wine sauce, and an Alsatian treat: veal and pork sausages with potato puree. Sides include baked
