NewBeauty Summer 2019

TOP

DOCTORS WHO TO SEE, WHAT TO GET AESTHETIC UPDATE

SUMMER FRIDAY FACELIFT

SUMMER 2019

THE TRUTH ABOUT CBD

HAPPY

SKIN

BEST NEW SUNSCREENS

Miranda Kerr’s

MIRACLE FIXES HER HEAD-TO-TOE GLOW, SUPERCHARGED SERUM, THE CLEAN WATER CURE

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CONTENTS

SUMMER 2019

DRINK UP!

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EDITOR’S LETTER

HYDROGEN WATER IS THE HOTTEST WAY TO COOL DOWN (AND KEEP YOUR SMILE LOOKING HEALTHY). READ MORE ON PAGE 28.

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MEDICAL ADVISORY BOARD

24

NEWS

The new wave of summer beauty essentials 33

HOLY GRAIL

The real story behind Ben Nye’s iconic color wheel

36

MUSE

Four women who inspire us share what inspires them 44

ICON

Disco beauty pioneer and makeup artist Sandy Linter opens up about Studio 54’s influence

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CONTENTS

SUMMER 2019

46

OBSESSED

Cosmetic chemist Erica Douglas sheds light on the world of hair porosity 48

52

GREEN RUSH

We investigate “it” ingredient CBD and its many beauty and wellness benefits 58

PURE GENIUS

Our eye-opening visit to Shiseido’s innovative new S/PARK in Tokyo 62

WHAT WOULD MIRANDA DO?

Supermodel Miranda Kerr shares her best practices for healthy living, marriage and motherhood

72

THE SPF EDIT

New FDA regulations on sunscreen and what it means for us this summer 78

THE BLING RING

Trend-setting doctors disclose their favorite vacation destinations

POWER DUOS

80

HELP! STRESS IS RUINING MY LOOK

The major impact it has on our skin, hair, body, nails and teeth

68

TURN ON THE LIGHT WITH THESE POTENT SKIN-CARE COMBOS

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THE GUIDE: SKIN TEXTURE

Everything to know about achieving super smooth skin

Chul-Hyun Ahn TRANSPARENCY 2019 La Prairie Pavilion, Art Basel Hong Kong n e w b e a u t y.c o m

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COURTESY OF LA PRAIRIE

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CONTENTS

SUMMER 2019

SUN SAFETY 102

WHAT SKIN CANCER REALLY LOOKS LIKE AND HOW TO PREVENT IT

95

THE CLINIC

114

DOCTORS’ ORDERS

96

BREAST IMPLANT CONTROVERSY

The latest studies and insight from plastic surgeons about breast implant complications 1 08

FACELIFT

Top doctors answer the questions our readers are asking 11 6

B+A GALLERIES

45 liposuction, hair restoration and smile before-and-afters

The gold-standard, time-reversal surgery gets ready for its second act

ON THE COVER

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VICKI SMITH/GETTY IMAGES

Miranda Kerr was photographed by Nino Muñoz; Makeup by Andre Sarmiento at TMG-LA; Hair by Ericka Verrett at Starworks Artists; Manicure by Kim Truong at Startouch Agency; Styled by Milka Prica. To get Kerr’s look, try KORA Organics Noni Glow Face Oil, Noni Radiant Eye Oil, Noni Lip Tint and Sun-Kissed Glow Body Oil. |

summer 2019

HEALTHY SKIN

powered by nature Gentle yet powerful so you can be a true force of nature.

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Emily Dougherty EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

DESIGN DIRECTOR

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WILLIAM TURNER/GETTY IMAGES

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Dr. Tina Alster Dr. Kenneth R. Beer Dr. Bradley Bengtson Dr. Kelly Bomer Dr. Joel Cohen Dr. Charles E. Crutchfield III Dr. Steve Dayan Dr. Jeanine B. Downie Dr. Steven Fagien Dr. Julius W. Few Dr. Ronald Goldstein Dr. Sanjay Grover Dr. Andrew Jacono Dr. Mark L. Jewell Dr. Laurence R. Rifkin

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KNOW BETTER SKIN.

Sherri Ginsberg

Tammy Cohen

Alexis Wall

FINANCE & BUSINESS OPERATIONS DIRECTOR

HEAD OF SALES

HEAD OF MARKETING & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

NATIONAL SALES EXECUTIVE ACCOUNT DIRECTORS

Lauren Decker Lerman Stacy Macklin Catharine Meketa-Poirot Darcie Vukovich ACCOUNT ASSOCIATE

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SALES ASSISTANT

Jessica Wu

REGIONAL SALES SENIOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR CALIFORNIA

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ACCOUNT DIRECTORS MIDWEST

Tracy Bennett NORTHEAST

Angelina Dedvukaj Lauren Stonecipher SOUTHWEST

Dana McLain FLORIDA/SOUTHEAST

Katrina Haug

MARKETING DIGITAL DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR

Samantha Dana

INTEGRATED MARKETING MANAGER

Taylor Lawson

MARKETING COORDINATOR

Veronica Schnatterly ART

ART DIRECTOR, MARKETING & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

Miche Ratto

ART DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING

Deborah Singer

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR

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BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER

Nicole Wieder

CLIENT SERVICES REGIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Kimberly Broder, Diane Minkoff OPERATIONS MANAGER

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OUTSIDE REP FIRMS CALIFORNIA

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Beauty influencer and avid traveler, Lindsay Silberman jetted off to the Maldives with Youtheory® Collagen Powder in tow.

See her jet-set beauty routine at @lindsaysilb

Anne McLean GEORGIA

Mimi Stevens

Adam I. Sandow CHAIRMAN AND CEO PRESIDENT

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CHIEF DESIGN OFFICER

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CORPORATE EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE & OPERATIONS

Judy Safir

DIRECTOR OF FINANCE

Samuel Hotchkiss

Just one scoop a day mixed into your morning coffee, or smoothie helps jump-start collagen production.*

CORPORATE MANAGING EDITOR

Pamela Lerner Jaccarino VICE PRESIDENT, DIGITAL

Pamela S. McNally

VICE PRESIDENT, WEB DEVELOPMENT

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EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT TO THE CEO

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Sarah Melton

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ACCOUNTING CONTROLLER

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COLLECTIONS SPECIALISTS

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HUMAN RESOURCES MANAGER

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DIRECTOR, TALENT & CULTURE

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TALENT & CULTURE MANAGER

Laura Salkowski NEW YORK 101 PARK AVENUE 4TH FLOOR NEW YORK, NY 10178 TELEPHONE 917.934.2800

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ADDRESS SUBSCRIPTION REQUESTS AND CORRESPONDENCE TO: NewBeauty, Attn: Customer Service, PO Box 15879, North Hollywood, CA 916155879 Email: subscriptions@newbeauty.com or 800-563-9056/818-487-2007

SANDOW was founded by visionary entrepreneur Adam Sandow in 2003 with the goal of building a truly innovative media company that would reinvent the traditional publishing model.

Today, SANDOW is a fully integrated solutions platform that includes leading content, tools, and services, powering innovation for the design and luxury industries. Its diverse portfolio of media assets includes Interior Design, Luxe Interiors + Design, Galerie, and NewBeauty. Materials Innovation brands include global materials consultancy, Material Connexion, game-changing material sampling and logistics platform, Material Bank, and materials reclamation program, Sample Loop. SANDOW brands also include research and strategy firm, ThinkLab. In 2019, SANDOW was selected by the New York Economic Development Council of New York to become the official operator or NYCxDESIGN Week, beginning in 2020.

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I’ve seen makeup artist Tim Quinn work his magic around the world: on models backstage in Milan, on jet-lagged celebrities doing press junkets in Beijing, on Hollywood royalty readying for the Cannes red carpet.

But my favorite place to watch Tim work is when he’s meeting real women at Armani makeup counters across the country. I’ve been lucky to see him in action at Saks in New York, Neiman’s in Dallas, and most recently, an epic bash we threw a few months ago at the Armani Box pop-up in West Hollywood. Every woman in the world deserves to have five minutes in Tim’s chair.

He’ll use a touch of the lush, incredibly hydrating Crema Nera cream, a few dabs of one of Armani’s iconic foundations, and a hint of color on lips and cheeks. We still look like us, but we feel and look happier, healthier—ready for our own version of a red carpet. At our LA party, celebrity smile guru Dr. Laurence Rifkin rolled in like the rockstar he is and dazzled the room with his brilliant smile. The man responsible for many of Hollywood’s most beautiful noses, Dr. Raj Kanodia, showed me videos of his “Temple

of Youth” filler technique. (Dr. K, sign me up!)

Apollonia (yes, that Apollonia! We were all Star. Struck.) shared her vision for transforming the future of women’s wellness. Then POW! The lights went out! I thought everyone would leave, as that’s what one does in this see-andbe-seen town when the lights go out at a party.

But, we were all too obsessed with watching Tim at work. For two hours, we held up our smart-phone flashlights to light Tim’s way.

Our guests—California’s most talented doctors, power CEOs and top tech entrepreneurs— burned through their phone batteries to help other women find their perfect lipstick shade.

(The findings? Armani #400 looks good on everyone, in every light.) That’s the power of our NewBeauty family. Thank you so much for being part of it!

E M I LY D O U G H E RT Y

Editor-in-Chief

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PAUL DIMALANTA, WEKWEK/GETTY IMAGES

EDITOR’S LETTER

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MEDICAL ADVISORY BOARD

DATA POINTS A re-emerging conversation has the volume turned to “high”—and the world is watching.

Robert Singer, MD

C H A I R M A N O F T H E B OA R D

@SingerSurgical

Recent FDA-held hearings have, once again, restarted the conversation on breast implant safety, and this time, advocacy groups, plastic surgeons and implant manufacturers are very involved.

According to the Aesthetic Society (ASAPS), 329,914 patients received breast implants from board-certified plastic surgeons in the U.S. last year.

Worldwide, that number grows to more than 1.5 million patients, according to the latest statistics from the International Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ISAPS). Reports also state that the vast majority of patients were happy they had the procedure and would undergo it again. There is, however, a small percentage of patients who have experienced a myriad of symptoms that may or may not be related to their implants.

Whether the combination of these varying symptoms constitutes a distinct disease, breast implant illness (BII) is currently scientifically unproven, but deserves thorough investigation in a valid scientific manner. Patients who have concerns should contact their plastic surgeon, who should be boardcertified by the American Board of Plastic Surgery or a member of ISAPS if they live outside of the United States. They are the best source for information and advice rather than the internet or social media.

In an attempt to obtain more valid data, The Aesthetic Society Educational Research Foundation (ASERF) and ASAPS are not only funding scientific studies about these issues, but also actively pursuing working on proprietary technological solutions to collect data that will clarify and provide answers to these complex problems. It is critical to have long-term data from evidencebased, statistically convincing studies in order to continue better educating fully trained, board-certified plastic surgeons and the public about these procedures. The goal has been, and should always be, patient safety.

ABOUT DR. ROBERT SINGER / drsinger@newbeauty.com Internationally renowned aesthetic plastic surgeon and noted educator Robert Singer, MD of La Jolla, CA is a diplomate of the American Board of Plastic Surgery and has served as president and chairman of the Board of Trustees of the prestigious American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS), chairman of the Board of Trustees of the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS), president of the American Association for Accreditation of Ambulatory Surgery Facilities, and president of the Aesthetic Surgery Education and Research Foundation (ASERF).

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BUILD MUSCLE & SCULPT YOUR BODY NO SURGERY – NO DOWNTIME

Experience the abdominal and buttocks workout without working out. Best of all it’s:

CONTRACTIONS IN 30 MIN

NO SURGERY & NO ANESTHESIA

EMSCULPT.COM | INFO@EMSCULPT.COM

Results and patient experience may vary. Patients shown in the B&A pictures are within +/- 5 lbs of their original weight unless specifi ed. As with any medical procedure, ask your doctor if the Emsculpt procedure is right for you. The Emsculpt procedure is U.S. FDA cleared for improvement of abdominal tone, strengthening of the abdominal muscles, development of fi rmer abdomen, strengthening, toning and fi rming of buttocks. ©2019 BTL Group of Companies. All rights reserved. BTL® and EMSCULPT® are registered trademarks in the United States of America, the European Union and/or other countries. The products, the methods of manufacture or the use may be subject to one or more U.S. or foreign patents or pending applications.

799-79EMCADNB2AENUS100; Emsculpt_AD_New-beauty_9x10.875inch_ENUS100

MEDICAL ADVISORY BOARD

ASK THE EXPERTS Q: What cosmetic procedure do your friends and family ask you about?

DERMATOLOGY

Tina Alster, MD

DIRECTOR OF THE WASHINGTON INSTITUTE OF DERMATOLOGIC LASER SURGERY

@drtinaalster

“My friends are always asking me about Ultherapy. They want to achieve facial and neck tightening without surgery so they can pursue their daily activities without concerns related to recovery or appearing unnatural.”

DERMATOLOGY

Charles E. Crutchfield III, MD EAGAN, MN DERMATOLOGIST

@CrutchfieldDerm

“I am getting more and more questions about whether plateletrich plasma (PRP) injections really work to regrow hair (they do!). I also get asked about Emsculpt, a muscle stimulator that burns fat and redefines muscles, especially in the abdomen and buttocks.”

DERMATOLOGY

Kenneth R. Beer, MD FOUNDER AND DIRECTOR OF COSMETIC BOOTCAMP

beerdermatology.com

“My friends and family ask me about botulinum toxins because they want to see a difference in their wrinkles. They’re also curious about fillers and 'liquid facelifts.’”

FACIAL PLASTIC SURGERY

Steve Dayan, MD

CHICAGO FACIAL PLASTIC SURGEON

drdayan.com

“Right now the hottest procedure I am being asked about is Emsculpt.

What was once pure fantasy— nonsurgically and effortlessly donning six-pack abs or firming the derrière without the time, energy or sweat needed to pound it out—is now a reality.”

PLASTIC SURGERY

Bradley Bengtson, MD GRAND RAPIDS, MI PLASTIC SURGEON

@bengtsoncenter

“I’m mainly asked about breast augmentation because my friends know it is one of the most common procedures I perform.

Their questions are generally about recovery or how I increase the size of the breasts in a very natural, proportional way.”

DERMATOLOGY

Jeanine B. Downie, MD MONTCLAIR, NJ DERMATOLOGIST

@drjeaninedownie

“One procedure all of my friends ask me about is the IntraGen skin-tightening device. People want a natural way to tighten their lower face, jawline and neck without doing an invasive procedure. IntraGen works on all skin types, males and females, and has no downtime.”

FACIAL PLASTIC SURGERY

Kelly Bomer, MD SCOTTSDALE, AZ FACIAL PLASTIC SURGEON

rejuvent.com

“Platelet-rich plasma (PRP) injections to the scalp. Ideally, at least three treatments—one every six weeks—should be done, followed by maintenance treatments. This pairs well with marine-based hair supplements like Viviscal and Nutrafol.”

OCULOPLASTIC SURGERY

Steven Fagien, MD BOCA RATON, FL OCULOPLASTIC SURGEON

drfagien.com

“I get questions like, ‘When is the right time to get my eyes done?’

The answer—although somewhat vague—is that it depends on many factors, including what your concerns are and what you expect from a particular procedure.

The solutions can vary.”

DERMATOLOGY

PLASTIC SURGERY

COSMETIC DENTISTRY

Joel L. Cohen, MD

Sanjay Grover, MD

Ronald Goldstein, DDS

DENVER DERMATOLOGIST

NEWPORT BEACH, CA PLASTIC SURGEON; DIRECTOR, THE CENTER FOR AESTHETIC PLASTIC SURGERY

COSMETIC DENTIST AND AUTHOR OF CHANGE YOUR SMILE

aboutskinderm.com”

“Many of my friends ask about laser resurfacing. They really want to see improvement, particularly in the etched-lines around their mouth, as well as around their eyes, but they are concerned about the downtime. Laser resurfacing is really the right tool for the job!”

PLASTIC SURGERY

drgrover.com

@RonGoldsteinDDS

“Porcelain veneers. There is still confusion about whether to get crowns, veneers or bleaching to achieve a whiter smile. My advice is to do the most conservative treatment possible and make sure your dentist provides alternatives.”

“Emsculpt. It is the first device in the space that actually builds muscle. It utilizes high-energy electromagnetic energy to cause muscle contractions, which results in muscle growth in the abs and glutes, as well as fat reduction.”

COSMETIC DENTISTRY

PLASTIC SURGERY

Julius W. Few, MD

DIRECTOR OF THE FEW INSTITUTE FOR AESTHETIC PLASTIC SURGERY

@JuliusFewMD

“Because I am known to have helped develop the ‘2.0’ version of thread lifting, it is by far the most common procedure I’m asked about. I perform facelifts also, so friends want to know how the two compare."

Laurence R. Rifkin, DDS

Mark L. Jewell, MD

BEVERLY HILLS, CA COSMETIC DENTIST

PAST PRESIDENT OF THE AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR AESTHETIC PLASTIC SURGERY

@LaurenceRifkin

markjewellmd.com

“Blepharoplasties. The surgery has evolved into an individually customized procedure that can help smooth the lower eyelid– cheek area. Upper eyelid blepharoplasty can also include a small lifting of the eyebrows.”

“Everyone always wants to know about veneers!”

FACIAL PLASTIC SURGERY

Andrew Jacono, MD

NEW YORK FACIAL PLASTIC SURGEON

newyorkfacialplasticsurgery.com

“When friends and patients ask what they can do to appear more alert and generally happier, I suggest an endoscopic temporal lift as a minimally invasive solution to reversing the droop around the eyes and brow that can make them appear tired or angry.”

PLASTIC SURGERY

Renato Saltz, MD

PAST PRESIDENT OF ASAPS AND ISAPS

@saltzplasticsurgery

“I'm constantly asked about Facelifts and CoolSculpting.

My friends are curious about how CoolSculpting works and sometimes worry that their results may not end up how they'd imagined, but we’ve never had such an effective fat-removal device!”

The Medical Advisory Board was created with a singular mission: to position NewBeauty as the leading resource for aesthetic guidance. Our Board, led by Dr. Robert Singer, serves to ensure that all information published is backed by deep ethical standards and strong scientific integrity.

Find more insight and advice from our board members at newbeauty.com/board N E W B E A U T Y.C O M

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Worrt hy Wo

E XPR XP R E S S IO ION N

Actual patient. Results unretouched. Individual results may vary.

IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION APPROVED USES: RestylaneÂŽ Refyne is for mid-to-deep injection into the facial tissue for the correction of moderate to severe facial wrinkles and folds, such as nasolabial folds, in patients over the age of 21.

RestylaneÂŽ Defyne is indicated for injection into the mid-to-deep dermis for correction of moderate to severe, deep facial wrinkles and folds, such as nasolabial folds, in patients over the age of 21.

CONTRAINDICATIONS: Restylane Refyne and Restylane Defyne contain traces of gram-positive bacterial protein and are contraindicated for patients with allergies to such material or for patients with severe allergies that

have required in-hospital treatment. They should not be used by patients with bleeding disorders, with hypersensitivity to amide-type local anesthetics, such as lidocaine, or by women who are pregnant or breastfeeding.

POSSIBLE SIDE EFFECTS: The most commonly observed side effects include swelling, redness, pain, bruising, tenderness, headache, lump formation, and itching at the injection site. Use at the site of skin sores, pimples, rashes, hives, cysts, or infection should be postponed until healing is complete.

These products should not be injected into the blood vessels as it may cause vascular occlusion,

RE FYN

DE FYN

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After (Day 14)

After (Day 14)

Before

After (Day 14)

1.0 mL Restylane Defyne to nasolabial folds, and 1.0 mL Restylane Defyne to marionette lines. Actual Restylane Defyne patient. Results unretouched. Individual results may vary.

infarction, or embolic phenomena. Use with caution in patients recently treated with anticoagulant or platelet inhibitors to avoid bleeding and bruising.

As with all skin injection procedures, there is a risk of infection.

To report a side effect with any of the Restylane products, please call Galderma Laboratories, L.P at 1-855-425-8722.

Restylane Refyne and Restylane Defyne are available only through a licensed practitioner.

Complete Instructions for Use are available at www.RestylaneUSA.com.

© 2017 Galderma Laboratories, L.P. All trademarks are the property of their respective owners.

USMP/REF/0067/0417a 11/17

NEWS SUMMER It’s that time of year: Turn on the Go-Go’s, turn up your sunscreen and kick back with our celebration of the season’s beauty essentials.

IMAXTREE

SCHOOL

N E W S

Urban Decay Perversion Waterproof Mascara: the same cultfavorite formula we love, but totally budge-proof, $24, ulta.com

MAC Cosmetics Extended Play Perm Me Up Lash creates the perfect curl that holds up to 16 hours, $24, maccosmetics.com

Tom Ford Extreme Badass Mascara is a powerhouse in the waterproofing and humidity-resistance dept., $46, tomford.com

Made with 96-percent natural ingredients, Westman Atelier Eye Love You delivers a fluttery fringe, $62, westman-atelier.com

FRESH INK

One of our favorite makeup looks for summer: the “wet lash” makeup artist Mark Carrasquillo created at the Etro RTW 2019 show (on the models shown here). “I was inspired by a surfer vibe: I love when you come out of the ocean and your lashes are wet, so I replicated that with lots of MAC Cosmetics Haute & Naughty Lash Mascara applied over and over,” he says. Here, our favorite new launches of the season to try the look at home.

Infused with castor oil, Grande Cosmetics GrandeDRAMA Mascara both conditions and thickens lashes, $25, ulta.com

IMAXTREE, WEKWEK/GETTY IMAGES

The waterproof version of Milk Makeup KUSH High Volume Mascara launched just in time for beach days, $24, sephora.com

Swipe on Younique Moodstruck Epic 4D for a lush falsie effect thanks to next-gen fiber technology, $29, youniqueproducts.com

The first vegan tubular mascara, Lune+Aster Eclipse will not smudge, even through hot yoga, $22, bluemercury.com N E W B E A U T Y.C O M

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N E W S

L OV E L E T T E R

PART Y FAVOR

The next time Jennifer Aniston jets you to Cabo for a girl’s getaway or Amal Clooney invites you to a long weekend in Lake Como, we have the perfect thank-you gift: a year’s worth of the gloriously glowy, incredibly chic soaps from Wary Meyers. We find them too pretty to use! But if we did, our hands would be happy about the glycerin-based formula: “Glycerin has positive benefits when used on the skin, as it is a potent humectant, so it helps attract and hold water in the top layers,” Norwalk, CT dermatologist Deanne Mraz Robinson, MD says. “Washing with a glycerin-based soap will leave hands feeling smoother than traditional soaps.” In other words, expect to be invited back next summer, too. “I’m intrigued by the layers of color and transparency in Wary Meyer’s graphic soaps—how they glow with light filtered through them,” says photographer Greg Marino, who took this shot. “They are beautiful works of art.” $14 each, warymeyers.com

GREG MARINO

Greg Marino

N E W S

Burt’s Bees Sensitive Skin Facial Cleanser, Daily Moisturizing Cream and Night Cream $10–$15, burtsbees.com

SENSITIVE SOLUTION

GO EASY

BIOLOGIQUE’S FLAGSHIP BRINGS PARIS TO PALM BEACH For those in desperate need of a full-on Biologique Recherche experience with the iconic French brand, you can save the transatlantic flight to its Ambassade de la Beauté in Paris for a stateside indulgence. “My parents created the magic of Biologique Recherche over 40 years ago,” says Biologique Recherche co-owner and CEO Philippe Allouche, MD. “When the first Lotion P50 formula was made, they had no idea the brand would grow to be what it is today.” The sunny, South Florida spa is the first and only Ambassade outpost in North America, and like the original, it brings a certain “savoir-faire” to the States with the allure of bespoke treatments using only the brand’s beloved, unique, skin-perfecting techniques and cult-classic potions for the face, body and scalp. “I, along with my partners, couldn’t be happier to bring that same magic to the U.S.,” adds Dr. Allouche.

ECO CHIC

Want to know what’s hot in indie beauty? Just ask Cosmetics Design editor Deanna Utroske.

These three eco-friendly products are currently of her list, and you’ve probably never heard of them before.

PLANTED IN BEAUTY INSIDE OUT SKIN WELLNESS

ĀETHER BEAUTY ROSE QUARTZ CRYSTAL GEMSTONE PALETTE

“These plant-based skin-care capsules make a difference I can see. The Berry Oil Blend promises to replenish and balance skin while the Antioxidant Blend promises to protect and purify.” $65, wellwithinbeauty.com

N E W B E A U T Y.C O M

Drenching our skin in a bath of prescription creams has become commonplace for many of us with reactionary complexions. However, a 2018 study reveals that clean, natural skin care may be the best solution for quieting irritation long-term.

In a four-week, double-blinded study, women with compromised skin were given either Burt’s Bees’ Nature-Based Sensitive Regimen or a traditional synthetic routine (brimming with ingredients such as cetyl alcohol and sodium lauryl) to help alleviate exasperation. In both those with rosacea and atopic dermatitis, participants who used the Burt’s Bees routine saw a drastic improvement in skin barrier function and hydration balance—along with reduced redness, and better textural and visual smoothness, radiance and clarity—when compared to those using the synthetic set. While individual skin conditions still play a large role in how any skin-care product will perform, such studies are making strides in the case for a nontoxic routine.

“These shadows are true gems unto themselves. They are distinctive and bold without being gawdy, and they stay on—fallout-free—all day. Plus, they are easy to remove with basic cleanser.” $58, sephora.com

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AYUNA PREBIOTIC RESTORATIVE BODY CREAM

“Prebiotics and probiotics aren’t just for gut health anymore. This ayuna body cream not only keeps my skin soft to the touch all day, but it’s also formulated to support my skin’s own unique flora.” $118, ayuna.co

S M I L E

A pioneer in preventative* skin treatments

KEEP UP THE GLOW. Shannon

Model and Actual Patient

* Preventative treatment refers to prevention of worsening of fine lines or wrinkles due to aging or sun damage

INDICATION: Clear + Brilliant laser system (1440nm and 1927nm handpieces) is indicated for dermatological procedures requiring the coagulation of soft tissue and general skin resurfacing.

Solta Medical is a global leader in the aesthetic industry providing innovative products such as Liposonix®, VASERlipo®, VASER® ultrasonic systems, Thermage® radio frequency and Isolaz® acne therapy systems, and the Clear + Brilliant®, Clear + Brilliant pèlo® and Fraxel® lasers. ®/TM are trademarks of Bausch Health Companies Inc. or its affiliates. ©2019 Bausch Health Companies Inc. or its affiliates. CBT.0034.USA.19

WORD OF MOUTH Ten-step skin-care routines? No problem! Five hours for perfectly placed highlights? Sign us up! Floss twice a day? We’re too busy! Yet, gum health has been unequivocally, no-questions-about-it linked to overall health: periodontitis (almost half of adults over the age of 30 have it to some degree) has been linked to metabolic disorders, heart disease, strokes, Alzheimer’s, and even sexual dysfunction. Hence why everyone from wellness gurus to autoimmune experts are now preaching what our dentists have been saying all along: We all need to take better care of our smiles.

If you aren’t already brushing twice a day, flossing and seeing your dentist regularly (at least twice a year, more if you have any gum issues), stop, do not pass go. You need to start brushing, start flossing and make an appointment with a dentist. (Need a suggestion? Go to newbeauty.com to find the best of the best in your area!)

That said, we know you, as a regular NewBeauty reader, already check all of the basic boxes and are ready to take your smile care to the next level.

IMAXTREE, MODEL USED FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSE ONLY

BE AN ORIGINAL.

GUM GUIDE

BE AN

ORIGINAL. Don’t settle for imitations. Choose the #1 provider of skin tightening treatments worldwide.

FASTER TREATMENTS - Up to 25% faster treatment time with the Total Tip 4.0*.

PATIENT COMFORT - Vibration available for both face and body treatments.

ENHANCED USER EXPERIENCE - Lighter, ergonomic handpiece with multi-directional vibration**.

ACCUREPTM TECHNOLOGY - Optimized treatment algorithm with site specific real-time tuning.

MORE VERSATILE - One handpiece to treat the face, eyes and body**.

EASIER TO NAVIGATE - Large touchscreen with user friendly interface**.

Tara Model and Actual Patient

*With 33% larger surface area as compared to Total Tip 3.0.

**All comparisons are to the Thermage CPTª system and its components.

Thermage FLX® INDICATION • The radiofrequency energy only delivery components of the Thermage FLX® system and accessories are indicated for use in: - Dermatologic and general surgical procedures for electrocoagulation and hemostasis; - Non-invasive treatment of periorbital wrinkles and rhytids including upper and lower eyelids; and - Non-invasive treatment of wrinkles and rhytids.

• The simultaneous application of radiofrequency energy and skin vibration by the Thermage FLX® system and accessories are indicated for use in: - Dermatologic and general surgical procedures for electrocoagulation and hemostasis;

- Non-invasive treatment of periorbital wrinkles and rhytids; - Non-invasive treatment of wrinkles and rhytids; - Temporary improvement in the appearance of cellulite; - Relief of minor muscle aches and pains; - Relief of muscle spasms; and - Temporary improvement of local circulation (blood circulation).

Solta Medical is a global leader in the aesthetic industry providing innovative products such as Liposonix®, VASERlipo®, VASER® ultrasonic systems, Thermage® radio frequency and Isolaz® acne therapy systems, and the Clear + Brilliant®, Clear + Brilliant pèlo® and Fraxel® lasers.

Tara Model and Actual Patient

ORIGINATOR. INNOVATOR. LEADER.

info@solta.com | 877.782.2286 | +1.510.786.6946

®/TM are trademarks of Valeant Pharmaceuticals International, Inc. or its affiliates. © 2018 Valeant Pharmaceuticals North America LLC. TRM.0133.USA.18

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SPY 1

L’Oréal Celebrates the Future of Beauty at AAD

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The hottest ticket at the recent American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) conference in Washington D.C.? L’Oréal Active Cosmetics Division’s spy-themed bash at the International Spy Museum, where the world’s top dermatologists slipped on Bond-approved black sunglasses and sipped on 007 martinis while perusing the something-for-every-patient lineup of skin-care solutions from La Roche-Posay, SkinCeuticals, CeraVe and Dermablend.

“No matter what a patient needs to address, whether it is a specific issue like discoloration, protecting skin from future damage or just keeping it balanced, I can find exactly what she needs from the L’Oréal lineup,” said one guest, who loved seeing “all of the doctor superstars in one place.” As one of those superstars, Dr. Kavita Mariwalla, says, “The L’Oréal Spy Party was great to connect with old friends and colleagues,” and then added, riffing on the evening theme: “The event definitely left us shaken not stirred. My dear girl, there are some things that just are not done. Such as drinking Dom Pérignon ’53 above the temperature of 38 degrees Fahrenheit—or going to someone who isn’t a board-certified dermatologist.”

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Guests enjoyed testing their espionage skills while celebrating L'OrĂŠal's Active Cosmetics Division at the International Spy Museum, with sweeping views of Washington, D.C.: 1. SkinCeuticals U.S. General Manager Christina Fair and Dr. Jill Waibel 2. Dermablend AVP, Audrey Dorfman and Dermablend General Manager, Malena Higuera 3. Dr. Tamara Lazic and Dr. Michelle Henry 4. Dr. Rachna Bhandari with Dr. Vivian Bucay 5. Guests were on a secret mission to solve the mystery and reveal the tool kit for healthy, glowing skin. 6. The writing wasn't on the walls, it was on the mirrors, as guests uncovered an all-star lineup of skin-care standouts that preserve, protect, treat and enhance every skin type from CeraVe, SkinCeuticals, La Roche-Posay and Dermablend. 7. NewBeauty Editor-in-Chief Emily Dougherty with Group President of L'OrĂŠal USA Active Cosmetics, Marc Toulemonde 8. Dr. Elizabeth Houshmand and Dr. Tina Alster 9. Dr. Jeanine Downie with Tom Allison, Vice President of Global Professional Marketing for CeraVe, and Dr. Kavita Mariwalla 10. Dr. Steven Wang and his lovely wife 11. The mirrored wall of "not so secret" lipstick messages 12. Each year, in partnership with La Foundation La Roche-Posay, awards are granted to the most promising research projects among young dermatologists across the world, an initiative that reflects its global objective of enhancing patients' quality of life. The North American winner, Dr. Randie Kim, was awarded $10,000 to help fund and encourage her dermatological research in clinical medicine, biology and pharmacology.

13. Tim Allison, Vice President of Global Professional Marketing for CeraVe, with Dr. Neal Bhatia and Dr. Ted Lain, an exclusive SkinCeuticals Advanced Clinical Spa partner 14. A lip print reader deciphering secret messages.

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SOOTHE MOVES

A ROOMBA FOR GUMS A team of researchers at the University of Pennsylvania has weaponized an army of microrobots to provide the deepest clean. This teeny, tiny clean-up crew can remove layers of biofilm (read: P. gingivalis) from even hard-to-reach areas along the root of each tooth.

HYALURONIC HERO

APA Beauty APA Pink Gum Gel, $25, apabeauty.com; Supersmile Zina45 Sonic Pulse Toothbrush, $225, supersmile.com

We have friends north of the border mail down Gengigel’s 0.2% Hyaluronic Acid Topical Gel. Containing the same active ingredient we love in our face serums, the HA gel, designed to be massaged onto gums, reduces inflammation, provides protection and speeds wound healing.

WATER WORLD Numerous studies conducted in Japan have shown the benefits of drinking hydrogen water—water charged with hydrogen ions. At Okayama University Hospital, researchers found that subjects who drank it for eight weeks significantly reduced gum inflammation.

(Try Perricone Hydrogen Water, perriconehydrogenwater.com) PHOBIA FIX For those who want to amp up their gum health, but dread the dentist’s office, promising tech is being developed at Columbia University’s Center for Precision Dental Medicine that aims to help ease the common concerns that keep us from the chair. The heart rate and oxygen intake of each patient will be monitored by clinic chairs, theoretically alerting the doc to any spikes in levels that may be related to anxiety or worry. This means a future with much less stress at the dentist and a more comfortable experience overall.

IMAXTREE, MODEL USED FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSE ONLY

At cosmetic dentist Jonathan Levine’s Upper East Side practice in New York, saliva is sampled and tested to determine proper pH: “We test for the type of bacteria and proteins present to give us a good idea of the inflammation in the mouth.” In addition to good oral care, Dr. Levine prescribes the right diet to help maintain a healthy pH. One of the biggest fans of bacteria could be Beverly Hills, CA dentist Kourosh Maddahi, DDS, who notes that, for the past 70 years, dentists have been focused on “killing bacteria that cause gum disease or decay,” he says. “However, the undisputed fact is also that we cannot kill all of the bacteria.

Plus, the long-term use of antimicrobial products leads to resistive bacteria. Microbiomes have been found to be crucial for immunologic, hormonal and metabolic functions of their host.” Dr. Maddahi blames not the “bad” bacteria, but rather their toxins for the presence of gum disease. “I came across an unprecedented 10-year research study by Beverly Hills periodontist Hessam Nowzari [DDS, PhD].”

Homeless kids in Manila suffering from severe gum disease due to aggressive bacteria were instructed to rub their gums with sea salt, rather than use traditional alcohol-based mouthwash. The result? No change in bacterial levels, but a stop in the progress of gum disease, suggesting that bacteria isn’t actually the bad guy.

HI-TECH TEETH

HOLY GRAIL BEN NYE COLOR WHEEL

M A K E U P A R T I S T B E N J A M I N P U C K E Y C U R AT E S F R E S H , N E W C O L O R W H E E L C O M B I N AT I O N S F O R T H E I C O N I C , FA M I LY- O W N E D T H E AT R I C A L M A K E U P B R A N D, B R I N G I N G A M O D E R N TA K E T O A N I N D U S T R Y C L A S S I C .

WHY WE LOVE IT

FU N FAC TO RY Founded in 1967 by legendary makeup artist Ben Nye, the brand is known for highly pigmented and saturated colors. “Ben’s son Dana Nye is the Willy Wonka of makeup,” says Puckey.

“Everything at the factory is made in-house. The final product is even handpoured into the wheels.”

With soft pinks, peaches and a more neutral, beigey-pink tone, Puckey designed the CR-200 as the perfect blush wheel to give light-to-tan skin a healthy glow.

Keeping with the brand’s focus on inclusivity, his CR-300 wheel also gives deeper skin tones a dewy gleam.

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the number of color wheels, including lip gloss, contour, color-correcting and SpecialFX versions

P OWER PALE T TES

V E R S AT I L E V I B E S

A makeup artist must-have, Mario Dedivanovic calls the Fireworks Wheel the OG highlighter palette and often whips out a Contour Wheel at his Master Classes.

Dick Page says, “The FX wheels are great for intense CR-200 Creme Rouge looks on the eyes, lips and Wheel Natural Glow cheeks or buffed out with $28, bennye.com a brush for a sheer finish.”

“I love Benjamin Puckey’s blush wheels,” says beauty guru Alessandra Steinherr.

“He not only took skin tones into consideration, but also undertones, so you get perfectly color-balanced hues that enhance and beautify the complexion.”

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

breakthrough

BRIEF

Take a sneak peek at these top shelf–worthy discoveries emerging from standout brands.

luxury meets organic ODE Natural Beauty odenaturalbeauty.com Crafted by McEvoy Ranch, ODE Olive CREAMBALM Intensive Moisturizer is packed with natural, powerhouse ingredients like certified-organic extra virgin olive oil, luxurious olive fruit, brightening citrus oils and hydrating squalene. An effective cream and balm in one, it leaves skin softer, brighter and more radiant.

luscious lashes RapidLash cvs.com Repair the appearance of damaged lashes from the effects of the sun, chlorine and waterproof mascara during this summer season. With just one swipe a day, RapidLash conditions and moisturizes so lush, gorgeous lashes can be yours naturally.

ready, set, glow ULIV ulivskincare.com A turmeric latte for the skin, Golden Glow Facial Soufflé contains a unique anti-inflammatory formula that mirrors the same cellular structure as the skin, allowing healing ingredients to easily absorb. The end result: reduced appearance of age spots, uneven skin tone and wrinkles, and a lasting, vibrant glow.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

hemp heaven Papa & Barkley papaandbarkleyessentials.com Relax, recover and rejuvenate with this Colorado-grown Hemp Balm. Formulated with 180 grams of CBD, plus MCT oil, beeswax and essential oils, this artisanal blend soothes dry, itchy and cracked skin while also reducing redness and inflammation.

dry on the fly InStyler instyler.com No more struggling with a round brush and blowdryer. MAVEN Ceramic Hot Air Brush combines the power of both into one easy-to-use tool that creates a smooth, frizz-free blowout in a fraction of the time. Dual heat sources from the ceramic plates and hot air will leave you with a sleek, chic look without the salon hassle.

morning dew Epicuren® Discovery epicuren.com Searching for a deeply moisturizing face cream that leaves your skin smooth and dewy? Loaded with aloe vera, colostrum and witch hazel, Colostrum Luminous Glow Cream™ hydrates skin and supports skin immunity to promote a luminous, vibrant complexion.

youth boost AnteAGE MD® anteage.com Powered by stem cell growth factors, Serum and Accelerator system contains everything skin needs to restore its youthful glow. Fortified with classic anti-aging ingredients like hyaluronic acid and vitamin C, this two-step system reverses the causes of skin aging at the cellular level, helping to smooth wrinkles, minimize discoloration and leave skin more hydrated and radiant.

brows enhanced neuBROW skinresearchlabs.com Say goodbye to sparse-looking brows.

A powerful yet gentle, innovative serum, neuBROW is formulated with peptides, keratin and biotin to promote thickerlooking eyebrow hair, as well as enhance the overall appearance of your brows.

MUSE

THE FUN RAISER JEN GOTCH Founder and chief creative officer of ban.dō A podcast aptly named “Jen Gotch is OK…Sometimes” is available to stream; “Anxiety” nameplates are being added to carts by the minute. Both in her rare free time and on the clock, the bubbly businesswoman and designer is making public strides toward banishing the falsities around mental health issues—beginning with her own.

B Y D A N I E L L E F O N TA N A

B E AU T Y S TA S H A quick peek into her medicine cabinet reveals her love for skin care—and the art of decanting mouthwash into a chic Bourbon bottle. Items always stocked on her shelves? “Peter Thomas Roth Gold Eye Patches, Naturopathica facial polish, GrandeLASH MD and Herbivore’s Coco Rose Polish.” The newest addition to the lineup: a pink Goby Electric Toothbrush.

“It’s a vibrator for your teeth. Not really, but it does make brushing more fun.”

HAPPY PLACE “I’ve never been able to keep my feelings to myself. For most of my life, I’ve struggled with anxiety, depression, bipolar disorder and ADD, and I never felt resistant to talk about it. Over the last couple of years, though, I’ve intentionally used my platforms to openly discuss my mental health issues in an effort to remove the stigma around them and help others feel less alone.”

SYSTEM MAINTENANCE “I developed adult acne over the years, so I’ve toned down my skin care to just a Naturopathica cleanser and facial polish, a gentle toner and moisturizer, and a mask once or twice a week. If I really want to take care of my skin, I skip sugar and wine, but that is tough for obvious reasons.”

STYLE FILE On any given day, you can catch Gotch in a pair of Levi’s Wedgie Fit Jeans, Freda Salvador “Hike” Combat Boots and a Clare V. clutch. Her favorite ban.dō piece of all time? The Jen Gotch x Iconery Collection, boasting nameplates reading “Anxiety” and “Depression.”

BLACK BOOK HAIRSTYLIST

WO R KO U T

FAC I A L S

Ashley Streicher @streicherhair

LEKFIT @lekfit

Heyday @heydayskincare

“Ashley is a dear friend and so talented. I don’t trust anyone else to cut my hair.”

“It’s a dance-inspired fitness method with high-intensity cardio, muscle sculpting and jumping on a small trampoline.”

“Jenna W. is such an amazing aesthetician! I highly recommend adding the CBD lotion therapy.”

HAIR COLOR Leonie Arter @leoniehairstylist

“Leonie is another dear friend who’s been coloring my hair for years. She’s an artist!”

MUSE

THE SUN CHASER CYNTHIA ROWLEY Fashion designer and founder of Cynthia Rowley Her name is synonymous with color and pattern—flashes of neon and tie-dye pants make up her summer line—but Rowley tends to keep it effortless day to day. “My style depends on my mood,” she says. “One day I’m in a T-shirt and jeans; the next I’m in full silk lamé with heels.”

BRIGHT IDEA

MONTAUK PHOTO BY CHERRY OLIVIA IMBUSH, HILMA AF KLINT PHOTO BY DAVID M. BENETT/GETTY IMAGES FOR SERPENTINE GALLERIES, ROWLEY: NIGEL BARKER

Inspiration comes in so many forms for Rowley—travel, culture, music, art, interior design. “Most recently, it’s been the colors of Hilma af Klint paintings, Warhol’s sunset series and the fantasy of nature’s ombré.”

INTO THE SUN “I take any chance I get to sneak away to surf spots wherever I travel,” says Rowley, whose summer wardrobe consists of two things: a wetsuit and a surfboard. “When I’m in Montauk, I always hit up Pilgrim Surf where I bought my favorite Josh Hall boards.”

KEEP IT SIMPLE “The last person to cut my hair was my daughter—and her 14-year-old friend—at the beach, and I’ve always dyed my own hair,” says Rowley of her low-key beauty routine. “A little bit of coconut oil on my hair and Vintner’s Daughter serum on my skin to lock in hydration does it. I keep a tincture from Lord Jones on my nightstand to help me relax.” As for her not-so-secret skin weapon: “Botox…and lots of it.”

BLACK BOOK D E R M ATO L O G I S T Cheryl Karcher @cherylkarchermd

“I’ve been seeing her since she removed my spider veins after my last pregnancy.

She’s the absolute best.”

TRAINER

S PA

Kit Keenan @kitkeenan

Dorado Beach Resort @doradobeachreserve

“I have a gym in my house, and my daughter Kit is a fitness fanatic. We work out together and she’s a very tough coach.”

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“I’ve never been the spa type, but I was just at the Dorado Beach resort in Puerto Rico for New Year’s and the spa was out of this world.”

MUSE

THE WELL WISHER MELISSE GELULA Cofounder of Well+Good “Wellness once meant jetting to Canyon Ranch or Thailand, but thanks to the ’08 recession, we started looking for things a bit closer to home,” Gelula says of the inspiration behind Well+Good. Ten years later, providing readers with a rolodex of experts and “smart and stylish ways to add wellness to their lives” is just another day at the office.

S H O P TA L K Stunning visuals paired with recipes everyone’s sure to covet—think Elle Macpherson’s supercharged chocolate mousse and Marie Kondo’s better-sleep drink—make Gelula’s recently launched cookbook, Well + Good: 100 Healthy Recipes + Expert Advice for Better Living, so much more than the average.

“Everyone wants to know what these health experts and public figures are really eating and making at home, so we tapped them to share their favorite recipes. I have one in there, too.”

S TAY C O O L Karaoke with friends and post-workout endorphins take the top spots when it comes to what makes her happiest. Post-sweat, she mists with Josh Rosebrook Hydrating Accelerator, then it’s Drunk Elephant Intensive Hydration Gel. “I wait for my skin to cool down before topping it with Alpyn Beauty Survival Serum.” On her nightstand: “Always H. Gillerman Organics Stress Remedy, Osmia Organics Body Mousse for my super dry hands and elbows, and Sunday Scaries CBD Gummies for frazzled nerves.”

BLACK BOOK WO R KO U T

COLORIST

FAC I A L I ST

TRAINER

Forward Space @forward__space

Clint Dunlap @clint.color

Julia March juliamarchskincare.com

Jess Movold @jessmovold

“Kristin Sudeikis is a magical person whose dance classes are too brilliant for words.”

“My genius colorist at Marie Robinson in New York.”

“Julia is an ahead-of-the-curve skin-care wizard with resultsoriented products and tools.”

“She’s a major runner, but we strength-train together. It’s the highlight of my week.”

GELULA: JOHNNY MILLER, EBET ROBERTS/CONTRIBUTOR/GETTY IMAGES, REPRINTED FROM WELL + GOOD. COPYRIGHT © 2019 BY WELL+GOOD. PHOTOGRAPHS COPYRIGHT © 2019 BY JOHNNY MILLER. PUBLISHED BY CLARKSON POTTER, AN IMPRINT OF PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE, LLC.

MORNING LIGHT Meditation is a must for Gelula first thing in the morning, as is the ginger- and ashwagandhaspiked Moodbeli Calming Adaptogen blend she adds to a “strong, yet decaf” cup of coffee.

“When it’s hard to get up, I put on hip-hop or ‘80s rock, and I can’t help but jump out of bed and dance around.” Playlist regulars include Depeche Mode, Loverboy, Biggie Smalls and Anderson Paak.

MUSE

THE SKIN SAVANT JILLIAN DEMPSEY Makeup artist and founder of Jillian Dempsey Dempsey has had skin in the beauty game for decades. “By 14, I was working at a salon and selling private-label lash oil to my classmates,” she says. After opening a full-service beauty parlor, she “chose makeup because I liked painting faces.” Now, the famed artist counts stars such as Emilia Clarke and Leslie Mann—and husband Patrick—as red-carpet regulars.

GLOBAL BEAUTY “I am constantly trying to find what is missing in the market and new ways to apply makeup and skin care, so travel—namely to Japan—is a fantastic tool when I’m envisioning a new product. I think it’s helpful to see how women in other countries wear makeup and shop.” Currently in her travel bag: her own Petal Cheek Tint, Rituel de Fille Eye Soot, DHC Mascara, Clé de Peau Radiant concealer and MMO Lipstick. “I wear and try everything!”

OFF-DUTY COOL “I had a number-two buzz cut when I was much younger and into the radical punk look,” she says. To tend to her current undone waves, she leans on Virtue Labs Recovery Shampoo and Conditioner, along with Oribe Crème for Style and Dry Texturizing Spray for grit. Her rocker-chic staples include classic Saint Laurent, Bleusalt hoodies and Japanese sneakers.

SKIN ESSENTIALS Dempsey has a skin-care wardrobe, but always returns to three favorites: Paul Scerri Ultra Active Eye Contour Cream, NUXE honey lip balm and her latest launch, a vibrating Gold Sculpting Bar designed to mimic the results of a facial massage. “I’ve used the moisturizer as an eye cream for decades, and my lips are addicted to the NUXE formula.”

DOCTOREGG/GETTY IMAGES

BLACK BOOK COLORIST Tracey Cunningham @traceycunningham1

“I’ve seen her for my hair color for years. Not one mistake...ever! But beyond that, she is the loveliest and most kind-hearted person.”

TRAINER

HAIRSTYLIST

AESTHETICIAN

Leyon Azubuike @gloveworx

Haruka at Warsaw @haruka_warsaw

Heather Bradley @bradleybeauty

“The best hair-cutter I’ve met in Tokyo. I will grow my hair out just to wait for his hand. Oh, and it’s a good excuse to go to Tokyo.”

“No one else is quite like him!”

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“She is my skin-sculpting magician.”

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The List

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ICON

THE SOCIAL ARTIST S H E M A D E A N A M E F O R H E R S E L F AT S T U D I O 5 4 , B U T S A N DY L I N T E R H A S H E R M A K E U P S K I L L S TO T H A N K F O R H E R S TAY I N G P O W E R

BY ELIZABETH RITTER

Linter says she got through the disco’s infamously tough doors because Fugler, their mutual friend, and she knew the formula: “A straight guy, a gay guy and a girl who was practically nude. They saw us and knew we were ready to party. We were always in.”

Then, there is the subject of Gia Carangi—a not-assuccinct tale that Linter prefers to keep private.

“I met Gia on a shoot with Chris Von Wangenheim in 1978. I was doing the makeup and they asked me to hang around afterward to take some photos. I said ‘sure’ very stupidly and very emphatically before I realized we were going to be nude against a chain-link fence. I didn’t have a choice after that! How could I back out? The rest is history.”

While she’s proud to be associated with both subjects, the makeup guru has since chosen to live in a world

Published in 1979, Disco Beauty: Nighttime Make-up is Linter’s “ode to the era” makeup tutorial; below, a shot from the iconic Deborah Turbeville series.

PHOTO BY DEBORAH TURBEVILLE/CONDE NAST VIA GETTY IMAGES

Sandy Linter is asked pretty much the same two questions every day: What does she remember about Studio 54, and what was it like to date Gia? The 71-year-old has the response down to a science: First, she rolls her eyes—in the kindest way possible— then, she offers a quick lesson in how to refer to the largerthan-life club.

“It was Studio or 54, but never the two names together.

You told the taxi to take you to Studio or 54 and they knew where to go.”

“I used to work a full day, go home, and my neighbor, hairdresser Howard Fugler, would come over and say, ‘You’re going out!’ And I would say, ‘Put me together!’ He would do my hair and pick out my outfit; I almost always ended up wearing springolators. That was the fashion!”

PHOTO BY ALLAN TANNENBAUM/GETTY IMAGES, SIMONE SILVERMAN, POLAROID COURTESY OF SANDY LINTER, NIK MERKULOV/SHUTTERSTOCK

“post-disco,” and her focus now, at least when it comes to her career, is on the digital age.

“I owe so much to Instagram. I was popular in the first place because I had this bleachblond hair and I looked like Debbie Harry.

I stuck around because I was good at makeup.

I’m still here because I have so many cool things to share on social media.”

In the morning, the first thing Linter does is scroll. “If I can’t relate to what other people are posting, I look through my own stuff and post what I’m feeling. Those are the photos that always get the most likes.”

Her personal archive is best described as “almost never-ending,” a well-preserved history of albums, prints, tear sheets, and— her personal favorite—the Polaroids.

“I would take my SX-70 Polaroid camera everywhere. It was amazing and the colors have held up so well. I loved seeing people and I saved everything I shot—it was never hard to get the shot. I was always around interesting people; I was with Warhol at a diner any night of the week. It was such a scene, and one thing would always lead to another.”

EARLY MOVES Growing up in Staten Island, Linter knew she had a talent when her mom, a secretary who “stacked Vogue on the nightstand and had a bathroom covered with products she didn’t know how to use,” started asking her to do her makeup before work.

“I started copying the makeup on myself when I was 15—that’s how all makeup and hair experts start—and next I thing I knew, I was in Bloomingdale’s behind the Kenneth counter. Mr. Kenneth owned a beautiful brownstone on 54th and Madison where all the celebrities went. Jackie Kennedy, Barbara Walters and all the names were his clients.

So, by default, they became my clients. I never had to knock on doors. I never had to suffer from lack of confidence.”

It’s that confidence, Linter says, that got her to the next step in her career. “All I ever knew, all I ever had to know, was just a little bit more about makeup than my clients.”

“There were very few makeup artists in New York in the ’70s—it was like the Wild West in a way that it was so open. I never had to network! I never had a business card, yet I always had the best jobs. I coasted until MAC came along, which gave way to droves and droves of makeup artists. After that, nothing was the same, but it was a positive change.”

LIFE OF A LEGEND

From top: Debbie Harry and Linter pose for a Polaroid taken by Barry McKinley in 1978; one of Linter’s favorite shots taken at Studio 54: “All of the pictures from there are great, but this one is the best. There were photographers following me. I was just relaxing! I didn’t know the guy and he didn’t know me. We look like drunks but it was New Year’s;” Linter today.

SQUAD GOALS A photo shoot in 1977 also changed Linter’s professional course, setting up another important relationship. More than 40 years later, after all the Studio 54 and Gia stories have been told, it is still a story that makes her tear up.

“I was in Santo Domingo with Vogue and Iman was there. I had worked with her a few times before and we were sitting by the pool under one of those tables with an umbrella.”

“Then came Christie [Brinkley], introducing herself like she always does, with that big smile. I can still remember telling myself, ‘This is the most beautiful girl you have ever seen. You have to remember this moment.’”

Yet life continued. Linter remembers doing shoots with Brinkley over the years. “She was a very popular girl. She got married, she had children, she was doing her thing and I was doing my thing.”

Then, a few years back, New York colorist Rita Hazan mentioned to Linter that she was doing Brinkley’s hair for an event.

“When Christie walked into the salon that day, I was ready for her. I did this NARS Cruella red lip on her that I’ll never forget. It was great—here I was, 40 years later, working with another model, a model who is still here and not going anywhere!”

Brinkley is also one of Linter’s favorite subjects to post on Instagram, and Linter shows up in a fair share of Brinkley’s posts.

“This whole social media thing feels like a continuation of the story I’ve always done.

It feels very much like survival mode,” she says with a laugh.

“Sometimes I forget the names, but I never forget the makeup.”

Watch Sandy recreate one of her favorite makeup makeovers at newbeauty.com/sandylinter N E W B E A U T Y.C O M

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STEVE GSCHMEISSNER/SCIENCE SOURCE

“If you don’t know the porosity level of your hair, you could be using the wrong products.”

OBSESSED

HEAD GAMES C O S M E T I C C H E M I S T E R I C A D O U G L A S E X P O U N D S O N T H E I M P O R TA N C E OF POROSITY WHEN IT COMES TO HAIR CARE B Y B R I T TA N Y B U R H O P FA L L O N

A

Stanford-trained chemical engineer, expert product formulator and champion for women and girls in STEM, Erica Douglas launched her blog, Sister Scientist, with the hopes of debunking the beauty industry’s biggest myths and shining light on under-theradar topics regarding skin and hair—one of them being hair porosity. “I often get asked what hair porosity is and whether it really matters,” Douglas says. “The bottom line: Porosity—the rate at which hair can absorb water— is important for any texture and type of hair because it directly impacts moisturization, which is vital to maintaining healthy hair.”

SMOOTH SAILING Hair porosity is typically measured on a scale of low to high, with most of us falling on the mid-to-high end. The reason why: This group includes those who chemically process their hair, whether it’s with permanent color, relaxers or thio-based products, and/or those who perpetually heat-style or brush their hair. “When hair is highly porous, it absorbs water quickly through damaged spots on the cuticle, but has a difficult time retaining the moisture because the water also escapes the hair shaft through those damaged areas,” explains Douglas. “These damaged spots are what makes hair feel rough and dry, as well as look dull and frizzy.”

Low-porosity hair, on the other hand, has a difficult time absorbing water because the cuticle layers are dense and

FORMULA FIX

Not sure which products to use? Douglas says these never-fail options are a great place to start.

LOW-POROSITY HAIR The trick with this type of hair is opening the cuticle to infuse as much moisture as possible.

“Incorporating a steamer during the conditioning process helps diffuse moisture in between the cuticle layers because gaseous water molecules like steam are smaller than water molecules,” Douglas explains.

Layering water-based and humectant-rich products—those with ingredients like glycerin, propylene glycol, keratin and panthenol—can also benefit low-porosity hair.

@SISTERSCIENTIST

compact, and the shaft has very few damaged areas, so hair is typically shinier and more easily detangled. “Another great thing about less-porous hair is that once water is absorbed into the hair shaft, it retains the moisture for a long time,” Douglas says.

“However, this also means it takes longer for the hair to dry.”

QUALITY CONTROL To determine where your strands fall on the porosity meter, Douglas suggests conducting a “float test.”

Place a few clean strands of hair on top of room-temperature water in a clear glass, making sure they aren’t overlapping or touching the edge. “Hair that immediately sinks indicates it is highly porous; if the hair floats for more than roughly eight minutes, it’s less porous,” she explains. “If you don’t know the porosity level of your hair, you could be using the wrong products—especially conditioner—and the right conditioner can make a world of difference in your hair’s texture and appearance.”

N E W B E A U T Y.C O M

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SheaMoisture Low Porosity Protein-Free Leave-In Detangler, $6, target.com; Q-Redew Handheld Hair Steamer, $78, qredew.com

HIGH-POROSITY HAIR “A good conditioner is essential for those in this category because conditioners contain cationic—positively charged—ingredients that bind to the negatively charged damaged areas to smooth the cuticle and lock in moisture,” says Douglas. “You should also always incorporate an oil or silicone-based finishing product as the last item in your styling routine to slow down how fast water escapes from the hair. Oil and water don’t mix, so this makes it harder for water to pass through.”

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Creme of Nature Argan Oil Treatment, $8, amazon.com OUIDAD Curl Immersion Triple Treat Deep Conditioner, $38, ouidad.com

24 HOURS

FORCE OF HABIT YEN REIS

DAY

FOUNDER OF SKIN LAUNDRY

@skinlaundry

“Even though my philosophy has always been ‘less is more,’ and my regimen is very minimal, I have always been very interested in skin care. I never liked the idea of wearing a lot of makeup, so I learned early on that, to avoid that, I really needed to look after my skin and protect it with sunscreen.”

“I start every day with Skin Laundry Gentle Foaming Face Wash ($20, skinlaundry.com), which we designed for sensitive skin because it isn’t drying. I believe SPF is a must-have—just like wearing a seat belt!—so I use Supergoop! Everyday Sunscreen SPF 50 ($32, supergoop.com), well, every day! And because I’m always traveling to visit our global locations, I can’t live without Aesop Resurrection Aromatique Hand Balm ($27, aesop.com) and Fresh Sugar Lip Treatment SPF 15 ($24, fresh.com)—both are perfect while I’m on the go!”

SHEENA YAITANES

FOUNDER OF KOSAS

@sheenayaitanes

“I like to listen to my skin and respond intuitively because I’ve found that my skin’s needs fluctuate. I also apply everything gently, without tugging or dragging, because the way I physically treat my skin is as much a part of the routine as the products I use.”

”I generally keep it pretty simple in the morning. I use a gentle cleanser, like Tatcha Pure One-Step Camellia Cleansing Oil ($48, tatcha.com), taking time to massage the deeper muscles in my face. Then I sweep Tracie Martyn Absolute Purity Toner ($60, traciemartyn.com) over my skin using a cotton pad to remove tap water residue, and massage Susanne Kaufmann Face Fluid Line A ($135, net-aporter.com) in until it absorbs.

Lastly, I apply Kosas LipFuel Hyaluronic Lip Balm in Pulse ($18, kosas.com) to keep my lips hydrated throughout the day.”

KIM NICHOLS, MD

GREENWICH, CT DERMATOLOGIST

@nicholsmd_dermatology

“As a busy mom of three, I have to keep my regimen simple, but as a dermatologist, I always make sure to use products that help protect and correct my skin. My skin-care trifecta includes an antioxidant, a sunscreen and a retinol.”

“In the morning, I can’t leave the house without applying my favorite vitamin C serum: SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic ($166, skinceuticals.com), which is clinically proven to fight off environmental damage that contributes to early signs of aging. And as a dermatologist, I practice what I preach: I wear SkinCeuticals Physical Fusion UV Defense SPF 50 ($34, skin ceuticals.com) every day, yearround. I then finish with Glo Skin Beauty Moisturizing Tint SPF 30+ ($44, gloskinbeauty. com) for added luminosity.”

WHETHER THEIR SKIN-CARE ROUTINES COMPRISE FIVE PRODUCTS OR 15, T H E S E T H R E E B E A U T Y B U F F S E M A N AT E A L I T- F R O M -W I T H I N G L O W B Y B R I T TA N Y B U R H O P FA L L O N

NIGHT

Healthy skin starts with clean skin, so washing your face with a gentle cleanser in the morning and at night is crucial.

“After cleansing again with Skin Laundry Gentle Face Wash, I apply Drunk Elephant Lala Retro Whipped Cream ($60, sephora.com)—the fermented green tea in it helps combat any environmental stressors on my skin. And whenever my skin feels dry or needs a little extra boost, I use a Skin Laundry Hydrating Facial Sheet Mask ($10, skinlaundry.com) before bed. I also stash some in my suitcase when I travel because they’re super light and easy to put on—even on the plane!”

“I use three products to remove my makeup: I start with the same Tatcha cleanser, then I mix True Botanicals Clear Nourishing Cleanser ($48, truebotanicals. com) and Bioderma Sensibio H20 ($15, dermstore.com) in my hand, cleanse and rinse. Next, I press Stories + Objects Persian Rose Water ($25, storiesand objects.com) into my skin like an essence, and finish with either Flora + Bast Age Adapting Facial Serum ($77, floraandbast.com) or Allies of Skin Mandelic Pigmentation Corrector Night Serum ($92, dermstore.com).”

I always have a tube of Aquaphor in my handbag!

“I actually look forward to my nighttime routine because my SkinCeuticals Custom D.O.S.E serum ($195, skinceuticals.com) makes it so easy for busy moms like myself. It’s a two-in-one corrective product—with retinol— that helps boost cellular turnover and even out skin tone. I also take my NicholsMD Probiotic Mega Blend DF ($80, kimnichols md.com)—one capsule a day not only helps my gut, but also has skin-clearing properties. Lastly, I use Aquaphor Healing Ointment ($7, cvs.com) on my lips to help alleviate dryness and chapping.”

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TRUNK ARCHIVE

GREEN GREEN RUSH

It’s been called the Wild West of beauty thanks to barely there regulation and a slew of marketing misnomers, but let’s clear the air: CBD isn’t just a fleeting trend. Ask many top doctors, hemp farmers and beauty brands, and they’ll tell you we’re only on the forefront of exploring what this miracle ingredient can do.

by B R I T T A N Y BU R HOP FA L L ON

JENNIFER ANISTON USES CBD TO CALM HER NERVES, Dakota Johnson keeps it in her carry-on to get good sleep on long flights and Mandy Moore rubs it on her feet before walking a red carpet. It’s the three little letters that have disrupted the skin-care and wellness arenas with no sign of slowing down—the market is projected to reach $22 billion in 2022. “We are on the cutting-edge of a whole new science, biochemistry and industry,” says San Diego dermatologist Jeanette Jacknin, MD. “This is just the beginning.”

SHUTTERSTOCK

THE CANNABIS CONNECTION

CBD (or cannabidiol) comes from the cannabis plant (sativa or indica), which contains more than 130 different compounds known as cannabinoids. To break it down, we like to think of the cannabis plant as a parent company, and within that company there are two separate brands: hemp, which contains less than 0.3 percent THC, and marijuana, which contains more than 0.3 percent. The hemp brand creates CBD and hemp seed oil, which are two distinct compounds (more on this later), but both are non-intoxicating. The marijuana brand creates THC—the psychoactive element associated with getting high—but also CBD, although it isn’t as potent.

“First isolated from cannabis in 1940 by Roger Adams, the structure of CBD was not completely understood until 1963,” says Dr. Jacknin. “Early studies resulted in the accepted view that THC was the ‘active’ principle of cannabis, and research then focused primarily on it, to the virtual exclusion of CBD. This was no doubt due to the belief that activity meant psychoactivity that was shown by THC and not CBD. In retrospect, this was unfortunate

CANNABIS MARIJUANA

HEMP

CBD

HEMP SEED OIL

(non-intoxicating)

THC

CBD

(psychoactive)

because a number of actions of CBD with potential therapeutic benefit—largely the ease of joint and muscle pain, but also anxiety relief and sleep support, among others—were downplayed for many years.”

However, as David S. Younger, MD, New York neurologist and author of The Science of Medical Cannabis, notes, the study of THC has led to many groundbreaking discoveries, including that of the human endocannabinoid system, which “has emerged as one of the key regulatory mechanisms in the brain, controlling things like mood, pain perception, learning and memory.”

Our bodies actually make our very own receptors for cannabinoids, known as CB1 and CB2, and when we ingest CBD or THC, it targets one or the other. “CB1 receptors are present throughout the central nervous system, which is why THC does its thing when smoked or eaten, but CBD selectively targets CB2 receptors, which inhabit the immune system, making it a favorable option for wound healing and managing inflammation,” explains Adam Friedman, MD, professor and chair of dermatology at George Washington School of Medicine and Health Sciences.

It’s these benefits that first caught the attention of doctors and wellness aficionados, and eventually, skin-care experts, too. But, as the experts interviewed for this story unanimously stressed, not all CBD is created equal.

THE CBD CONTROVERSY

Given the popularity of CBD, it seems like everyone wants a piece of the plant-based pie.

Whether we’re at Ulta, a SoulCycle class, a spa, or even some doctors’ offices, CBD-infused products are most likely within reach—or will N E W B E A U T Y.C O M

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eczema, rosacea and psoriasis (clinical trials for these uses are pending).

“Multiple OTC hemp brands have received warning letters from the FDA because their products had little to no CBD in them,” says Dr. Friedman. “Furthermore, these companies have to be very cautious with their claims—if anything sounds remotely medical, meaning intended for use in the diagnosis, mitigation, cure, treatment, or prevention of disease, then their product would be considered a drug, and that is a big infraction.”

Another hurdle for many topical CBD pain relievers, Dr. Friedman notes, is that they contain other scientifically proven analgesic compounds, such as menthol, camphor and capsaicin, so it’s tough to determine which ingredient is doing the heavy lifting.

“Many skin-care brands are formulating products with hemp seed oil, which contains zero CBD.”

SHOP SMART

What to Look For in CBD Products Ashley Lewis, cofounder of Fleur Marché, a CBD e-tailer, breaks down to what to look for when buying CBD products.

1. LABEL LINGO

Look for the actual letters CBD on the label, or the words cannabidiol, hemp extract or hemp extract oil.

2. HEMP SOURCE

Look for hemp grown in the U.S or Europe that is certified-organic, organic compliant, eco-farmed or food-grade hemp, which verifies the hemp isn’t grown with or near dangerous contaminants. It’s important to note, however, that it can be hard to find certifiedorganic hemp, as the USDA only recently started allowing hemp farmers to certify their crops.

3. EXTRACTION METHOD

You want to make sure you’re avoiding any toxic chemicals: The most widely used (and recognized as safe) methods of extracting CBD are ethanol and supercritical CO2.

4. POTENCY

This predominantly applies to ingestibles, such as tinctures, gummies, capsules, etc. You want to understand the potency of the product—milligrams per serving— so you’re aware of how much you’re putting into your body.

Microdosing—taking smaller amounts of CBD throughout the day—to start can give you a better idea of how you’ll react to a larger cumulative dose down the road.

5. THIRD-PARTY TESTING

This is very important, as lab testing can verify the amount of active CBD and other cannabinoids in a product, as well as the purity of them, meaning the freedom from all residual solvents, heavy metals, pesticides or bacteria.

Many brands will post this information on their website, or even on the products themselves for full transparency.

VIPIN SINGH RAJPUT/EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES, SHANA NOVAK/GETTY IMAGES

be in the near future. As a result, there’s abundant confusion as to which products actually contain the ingredient and which don’t.

“Many skin-care brands are formulating products with hemp seed oil—aka cannabis sativa seed oil—which contains zero CBD and comes from the seeds of the plant versus the flowers, stems and stalk, where CBD is sourced. Many people are confused and think it’s the same thing as CBD or contains CBD, but there’s a significant difference,” says Lord Jones cofounder and president Cindy Capobianco. Although hemp seed oil is high in antioxidants and fatty acids that plump and protect skin, CBD trumps it on both fronts, and is also touted as an acne fighter— it helps reduce sebum production in the skin—and an over-the-counter solution for

WAIT! I STILL HAVE MORE QUESTIONS! LET’S GET DOWN TO BASICS.

Q

Q

Is CBD legal?

What is the “Entourage Effect”?

Yes and no, and here’s why. Last December, CBD enthusiasts celebrated big when Congress passed the 2018 Farm Bill, removing industrial hemp from the Schedule 1 drugs list and greenlighting farmers to grow hemp more freely. “This means hemp-derived CBD products are now legal to ship in the U.S., which has led to the recent retail boom,” says Kelly Bumgarner, cofounder of Cannuka.

“Researchers theorize that a ‘broadspectrum’ or ‘full-spectrum’ whole plant extract makes CBD readily absorbed,” says Capobianco. “The idea known as the ‘Entourage Effect’ is that when cannabinoids, terpenes and other plant matter combine, the efficacy is greater than one used in isolation, known as CBD isolate.”

Some experts say isolates are inferior, although they still yield health and beauty benefits.

Q

Q

How important is sourcing when it comes to CBD?

What are terpenes?

“High-quality hemp is key to a premium CBD product,” Lewis stresses. “Hemp is a ‘bioaccumulator,’ meaning it absorbs anything in the soil around it. If it’s grown in or around areas where there are pesticides or heavy metals, it will suck all that bad stuff right up. So, it’s important to know that the hemp in your product is grown according to the highest standards tested to ensure its purity.”

Terpenes provide the cannabis plant with its aroma and flavor, and also constitute most of the essential oil it produces. “It has recently been discovered that they can also create synergy with cannabinoids, such as CBD, and take part in the varied pharmacologic effects, such as anti-inflammatory, anti-infective, analgesic, antioxidant, and potentially even anti-cancer,” says Dr. Younger. “However, more research is needed to identify the best way to utilize them.”

Q

Q

GUTTER CREDIT

With ingestibles, how much do I need to feel results?

Can I ingest or apply too much?

According to Dr. Friedman, we don’t have great data on this yet—it’s only been studied in rats—but “applying a lot of CBD topically is probably not an issue, short of anyone who has a sensitivity to CBD or the other ingredients in the product.” While CBD is generally deemed safe, the experts we interviewed agree that more research is needed to scientifically validate its effects.

“Dosing is not one-size-fits-all—it’s based on multiple factors, like age, weight and diet,” says Lewis, who notes that finding your “Goldilocks Zone”—the perfect dosage for beneficial effects—is key.

“Studies show that once you find your optimal dose, increasing that dose can sometimes make CBD less effective.

It definitely requires a bit of trial and error.”

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TOPICALS VS. INGESTIBLES DO YOU PREFER CREAMS, TINCTURES OR BOTH?

TOPICALS

WHAT THEY ARE: Oils, lotions, serums, creams, salves and sprays that are applied to the skin WHAT THEY’RE BEST FOR: Providing “targeted, fastacting relief for aches, pains and skin inflammation,” says Bumgarner, “and treating localized issues like sore muscles.”

OTHER BENEFITS: CBD potions are being used in dozens of ways: on joints and muscles to ease stiffness, the temples to address pain associated with migraines, the abdomen to soothe menstrual cramps, and the feet before a long night in stilettos. “We’ve also heard cases where it’s been applied prior to in-office aesthetic treatments like fillers and lasers to help minimize discomfort during the procedure and any bruising or swelling afterward,” adds Capobianco.

Dr. Friedman says there is definitely potential for this use to become mainstream, but more clinical evidence and regulation is needed first.

GOOD TO KNOW: Most CBD topicals can’t penetrate into the bloodstream, unless they are designed to be transdermal or are applied to areas of the body that are more porous (such as mucous membranes).

INGESTIBLES

WHAT THEY ARE: Tinctures, capsules, gummies, powders, drinks, etc. that, like other dietary supplements, are not regulated by the FDA. Tinctures— CBD-infused liquids (mainly oils) that get dispensed via dropper under the tongue—are the most common and quickly absorb into the bloodstream. Candies and capsules need to be processed through the digestive tract, so their effects may take longer to manifest.

WHAT THEY’RE BEST FOR: Promoting restful sleep, as well as easing stress and anxiety issues, and symptoms associated with autoimmune disorders like multiple sclerosis and rheumatoid arthritis OTHER BENEFITS: CBD ingestibles may also offer a natural treatment for some types of chronic pain.

“In preclinical trials, CBD was found to reduce the body’s inflammatory response in those with autoimmune conditions,” says Dr. Younger. Researchers are also studying its effects on depression, type 1 diabetes, Parkinson’s, Huntington’s, Alzheimer’s, and schizophrenia, among other disorders.

50 SHADES OF GREEN

Our Favorite...

FACE OILS

TINCTURES

Full-spectrum, oil-only Flora + Bast Age Adapting Facial Serum has quickly become a does-it-all favorite ($77, floraandbast.com); Hora Skin Care Super Serum + CBD uses all-natural ingredients to hydrate, protect and help regenerate skin ($54, horaskincare.com); and anti-inflammatory BeautyGrass LitFromWithin Oil mimics skin’s natural oils to create a major glow ($100, beautygrass.com)

Charlotte’s Web Extra Strength CBD Oil really takes the edge off after a long day, and we love the mint chocolate flavor ($75, charlottesweb.com); LEEF Thrival CBD Extract uses a whole-plant cold-pressed fermentation process to ensure top quality ($100, leeforganics.com); and Feals delivers a mega dose of premium CBD to reduce anxiety and sleeplessness ($75, feals.com)

LOOKING AHEAD

The Future of CBD BODY HYDRATORS Citrus-scented Apothecanna Everyday Body Crème leaves dry skin completely rejuvenated ($40, apothecanna.com); Indigo + Haze Moisturizing Body Crème contains 200 milligrams of hemp-derived CBD oil for ultimate skin soothing ($45, indigoandhaze.com); and Cannuka CBD Nourishing Body Cream blends CBD with antibacterial manuka honey to hydrate skin and reduce inflammation ($28, cannuka.com)

HEAD TO TOE Emera Nourishing CBD Scalp Therapy calms scalp irritation while restoring the balance needed for healthy hair growth ($30, emerahaircare.com); W!nk SPF 30 CBD Sunscreen protects skin with full-spectrum, antioxidant-rich CBD and UV blockers ($34, wink-wink.com); and boost your self-care ritual with VERTLY Bath Salts, which combine CBD and magnesium to pamper both mind and body ($29, credobeauty.com)

PAIN RELIEVERS Made with natural botanicals and whole-plant CBD, Papa & Barkley Hemp Infused Balm dispatches instant pain relief ($30, papaandbarkleyessentials.com); nongreasy Lord Jones High CBD Formula Body Lotion is a celebrity favorite for alleviating sore muscles ($60, lordjones.com); and Highline Wellness Premium CBD Cream is a gym-bag essential for achy joints in need of TLC ($35, highlinewellness.com) N E W B E A U T Y.C O M

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The common thread among the experts featured here: they all believe this is only the beginning of the CBD story. “As the industry evolves, we’ll start to see more clinical trials and clinically proven benefits, which will yield more demand for CBD in various new, user-friendly formats,” says Lewis.

“I also think we’ll start to see improvements in the chemistry of CBD as scientists and product formulators think about improved bioavailability and how to get CBD into the body more efficiently.”

Bumgarner shares this optimism: “We will see the fastest evolution of a market in this century,” she says.

“The public is rather familiar with THC and CBD, but there are hundreds of other cannabinoids from the cannabis plant, not to mention that our own bodies can make endocannabinoids, such as 2-AG and AEA, which we’re still investigating,” says Dr. Friedman.

“There is also a whole host of synthetic cannabinoids being developed in the lab to optimize the best properties of plant- and human-derived cannabinoids.”

Research shows CBD could also make an effective substitute for opioids used in pain management, as one 2018 study found that the number of opioid prescriptions filled had dropped significantly in states where marijuana is legal.

“I’m very interested in seeing how CBD can be used to help cure the opioid epidemic in this country,” says Dr. Younger.

Right now, more evidence is needed to support the broad acceptance of CBD, as well as its decriminalization. “I don’t think we are that far away, given the progression of state-based medical marijuana legalization— it’s currently in 33 states and Washington, D.C.—and the 2018 Farm Bill,” says Dr. Friedman. “We’re slowly but surely getting there.”

PURE GENIUS

SOME OF WORLD’S MOST EXCITING BEAUTY INVENTIONS COME FROM THE SAME ZIP CODE: S/PARK, SHISEIDO’S NEW INNOVATION LAB IN JAPAN. by

EM I LY D OUGH ERT Y

ALL, COURTESY OF SHISEIDO

LIGHT TOUCH Shiseido North America color artist Vincent Oquendo illuminated Shanina Shaik’s lids with a mesmerizing mossgreen from the brand’s Namiki Street Nature Essentialist Eye Palette.

I

love cosmetic chemists! Stephen Alain Ko! Balanda Atis! Dan Yarosh!

They are the unsung Da Vinci’s of the beauty world, creating miniature works of art­—airy creams as soft as bunny kisses; lambent eye shadows that rival the Aurora Borealis. And thanks to Shiseido, these artists now have a temple/museum/playground all of their own at the newly opened S/PARK, the 17-story, 76,000-square-foot innovation lab just outside of Tokyo. Shiseido polled product researchers from around the world on which elements would help them be more creative, and a jungle gym got the thumbs up, but the architects couldn’t deliver on the request for a room that can simulate any and every possible climate condition. On the first floor, researchers can meet directly with consumers to develop custom skin care and makeup (and apply the insights to future inventions). Next, formulators a few feet away, enclosed in the world’s smallest fully functioning manufacturing plant, whip up the custom blends, putting each individual batch through rigorous safety tests before shipping custom bottles to the consumer.

Such an investment in the art and science behind skin care isn’t new for the 147-yearold brand: in 1922, it launched the Beauty Dermatology Clinic in Ginza (Tokyo’s version of Fifth Avenue), where women could meet with trained dermatologists. In 1989, it teamed up with Harvard and Mass General to create the Cutaneous Biology Research Center: findings from the partnership include insights on our immune system, as well as the relationship between the nervous system and our skin.

On the horizon: a second-skin technology that can provide instant lift for the face, and a Nespresso-esque machine that delivers a fully customized skin cream on demand.

The Beyond Time AR experience lets S/PARK guests visually add or subtract years to their faces.

The world’s tiniest skin-care factory. Squee!

The Shiseido S/PARK Global Innovation Center

1897

OG ESSENCE: At the turn of the century, Shiseido launched Eudermine, one of the world’s first serums, which was designed to protect skin from external aggressors and based on research conducted by Dr. Nagayoshi Nagai of Tokyo Imperial University. Still a best-seller, the iconic “red water” delivers insanely moisturized skin when layered under your favorite skin care. n e w b e a u t y.c o m

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BLOCK

PARTY In 1923, while Coco Chanel was doing her best to promote tans, Shiseido was developing Uviolin, one of the first sunscreens. Today, the brand’s best-in-class sun-blockers have fans ranging from pro surfers like Kelly Slater to top supermodels—you’ll see the iconic bottles at nine out of 10 beach fashion shoots.

Shiseido Sports BB SPF 50+, $38, shiseido.com

SCREEN

SAV ER

COCKTAIL NAT ION

Because most of us don’t have a dermatologist on call every morning to prescribe exactly what our skin needs that day (Cori Zeichner, aka @thedermwife, is living the dream!), Shiseido launches the next best thing: Optune, a sleek, white device housing individual vials of potent active ingredients. After scanning your skin, factoring in external issues (humidity, air quality), Optune delivers the exact blend (from 1,000 possible combinations) your complexion needs. Although it’s still in beta-testing, early adopters can purchase at Shiseido’s Watashi+ website.

Japan’s beauty editors can’t stop raving about the new IHADA Aller Screen, an innovative essential for anyone suffering from particulate-based smog or pollen-based allergies. Spritz the ultra-fine mist over your face and hair, and the patented, ionic-based technology repels up to 90 percent of allergens four the next four hours. It really works, too: We breezed through the recent allergy season with almost zero sneezing. Because pollen can compromise skin’s barrier function, this powerful spray also has skin-care benefits.

(We think it could even work on pet dander, as one highly allergic editor attested when she lasted through an endless dinner party at her cat-crazy friend’s apartment.)

XANAX IN A

60% OF WOMEN SURVEYED WORRY THAT THEIR FOUNDATION ISN’T HEALTHY

SPRAY

SURFACE

LEVEL

Shiseido surveyed more than 20,000 women and found that most of us wear foundation for 2,080 hours per year, and many of us are closer to 3,600 hours per year. But most of us fear that our current foundation isn’t good for our skin and would prefer not wearing it.

This spring, Shiseido launched HAKU Melanofocus F SPF 30 PA+++, a medical-care hybrid foundation featuring the same potent quasi-drug (approved by Japan’s stringent Ministry of Health) brightening ingredients found in the brand’s best-selling HAKU line.

Well, not quite. But after using a rose-based fragrance twice daily for one month, test subjects experienced a statistically significant reduction in their response to stress, as measured by brain scans. Subsequent research found that this rosepowered stress-relief led to positive physiological changes in the skin: a measurable decrease in acne and redness, as well as normalized sebum production.

(Try Clé de Peau Beauté Synactif Eau de Parfum, $300, cledepeau beaute.com.)

In 2002, Shiseido found that the mix of fennel, grapefruit and pepper causes the brain to upregulate the release of UCP, a fat-targeting protein. Look for the technology in Shiseido’s Advanced Body Creator, which is only available overseas.

HAUTE SHOT

Two decades before collagen gummies were on everyone’s Instagram feeds, Shiseido launched The Collagen, a line of collagen-boosting drinks, supplements and powders that combine vitamin C, hyaluronic acid and fish-derived collagen.

DR. JET SET: HEIDI WALDORF, MD “What has always impressed me with Japanese skin care is the precision. It’s like their food—never about mixing enumerable ingredients so you taste none, but finding the one or two that work together and pack a punch. Not surprising that Japan has always been ahead of the curve with sun protection— you just have to look at a random street and see the number of sun umbrellas used to understand the market. Their sunscreens are light but protective: many were made with physical blockers without seeming heavy or thick, far earlier than we got to that point in the U.S. I’m also a big fan of Japanese lengthening mascaras, which felt ‘cleaner’ long before many others did. My go-tos on planes are the lavender-scented, disposable, self-heating eye masks sold in Japanese drug stores (even at the airport) [MegRhythm Steam Eye Mask, $10, amazon.com]. I wear them alone, over a moist hydrating mask, or under a regular sleep mask to help me relax and sleep. I also offer them to my patients while they’re being numbed or undergoing body procedures.”

—Nanuet, NY dermatologist Heidi Waldorf, MD (pictured at left with her friend Mayumi Endo) N E W B E A U T Y.C O M

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ELIZABETH RITTER

WHAT WOULD

photography by

NINO MUÑOZ

MIRANDA DO?

Sure, she’s a supermodel, but MIRANDA KERR is also on a super mission: to save the world, one wellness tip at a time.

WHEN MIRANDA KERR MET HUSBAND EVAN SPIEGEL, THERE WAS A SPARK, WITH A LITTLE BIT OF SKIN CARE ON THE SIDE.

“I thought, ‘Oh, this guy is cute,” the 36-year-old recalls. “But, ‘Wow, his skin is flaky!’”

Luckily for Spiegel, co-creator of Snapchat, little did he know that he had just met not only a supermodel and Victoria’s Secret Angel, but also a beauty company CEO equipped with some glowing-skin recommendations.

“I was like, ‘Why don’t you try this,’ and I gave him the Noni Glow Face Oil. Ever since, he hasn’t stopped using it! He always says, ‘Oh my God, Miranda, this is the only product that has helped my dry skin.’ Now, he won’t go anywhere without it.”

Miranda’s potent facial oil made us first fall in love with her too. Here, the soon-to-be mom of three shares how she maintains her holistic approach to healthy living, even through modeling, marriage and motherhood.

There’s a lot out there.

YOU WERE “GOOP” WAY BEFORE THERE WAS EVEN A GOOP… IT’S LIKE YOU’RE THE ORIGINAL COCONUT OIL–PULLER.

MK: It’s funny because I remember giving Gwyneth the products when I had launched in 2009. At the time, she was talking about how she just started this website called goop, and I was like, ‘Oh! That sounds right up my alley.’

Now our products are sold on her site, so it’s really come full circle. I know the self-tanner is flying off the shelves because she texted me recently and said, ‘This tanning lotion is incredible. I can’t believe the sales. It’s crazy!’

A tanning product that doesn’t smell bad is always a good thing. Have you always been into health and wellness?

MK: I grew up that way—there was always the philosophy that health was wealth. I grew up in a tiny country town in Australia called Gunnedah in a family that was, and still is, very health-conscious. Both my parents and grandparents raised me with that awareness of well-being and health, and educated me on the importance of organic—and I didn’t realize that other people didn’t do the same. It was always kind of my passion; that continued when I studied in Australia, and when I got to New York, I studied another course at [the Institute for] Integrative Nutrition. I was modeling full-time and studying, and I became a certified health coach. The interest in health has always been there. I’m still constantly reading books on health and wellness, and how the mind, body and spirit are all connected. There’s always so much to learn.

That’s not necessarily how a lot of people grow up in the U.S. Do you think it’s changing everywhere?

MK: I think it’s really exciting that people are becoming much more educated and aware of the benefits of health and wellness. They’re looking for those different self-care avenues and practices that will uplift them and complement their lifestyles. There are so many different tools out there that can work, but everyone is different. Somebody’s medicine might be somebody else’s poison.

MK: Yes, and it’s important to find what supports you and your wellness and explore that further. If you give your body the right nutrients, it’s going to have the chance to function at its best. At the same time, you’re feeding your mind with positive thoughts and balancing your time with work, friends and family and all of that—all of those areas play an important role in your overall health and wellness.

I’ve always said that I try to be 80-percent healthy and 20-percent indulgent across all areas—not just in what I eat, but in general. Even my character is 80-percent good girl and 20-percent naughty. I think it’s important to not put pressure on yourself to be super strict about anything.

Balance is important.

And that carries over into your entire life?

MK: When it comes to my skin and body, I’m 80 percent using KORA, but then there’s that 20 percent that comes in where I use makeup that’s maybe not certified-organic.

If you’re going to get the same, if not better, results from using products that are healthy for you, then why wouldn’t you? It’s kind of a no-brainer. Why slather your body in chemicals when there are so many things we can’t avoid?

We can’t avoid pollution, we can’t avoid radiation when we’re flying, we can’t avoid what the food is cooked in when we go out to eat. But there are things we can control, and one of them is what we’re putting on our skin.

That makes sense.

MK: That’s my logical way of thinking, and it works for me.

It’s the same way when I eat. I love to eat healthy, but I also love to indulge. I eat out sometimes and it’s not organic. If I go to a friend’s house, I’m not going to ask, ‘Is it organic?’

I’m going to enjoy the food they prepared for me with love.

I’m not going to be crazy.

Do you teach the same to your children?

MK: Flynn knows. He did a project at school about healthy food and said something like, ‘I’m blessed to be able to eat healthy, organic food.’ Then he picked up a vegetable and asked if it was organic. I told him, ‘Yes, Flynn, we grew it in our backyard, it’s organic.’ He’s so inquisitive and curious.

He loves watching me cook, and he also loves yoga. When he was in my belly, I would do yoga every day, so he has a deep connection with it—we still do yoga together at least once a week. He’s also very aware of his environment. He loves being outdoors, and he’s really conscious of things like turning off the water when he’s brushing his teeth, and taking a quick shower. He also picks up trash when he sees it. I think teaching children at a young age to do all of these little things like turning the tap off, or turning the lights off, or bringing the reusable bag to the supermarket, are things everyone can do. They make a big difference.

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G O L D E N S TAT E Makeup artist Andre Sarmiento glowed up Kerr with her own Noni Lip Tint and Sun-Kissed Glow Body Oil by KORA Organics.

Is the beauty business also a family affair?

MK: Evan has very dry skin—it’s hereditary, and he’s had it his whole life. But now he uses the oil, and the body lotion, and lately he’s been obsessed with the turmeric mask. He doesn’t use it as an actual mask; he keeps it in the shower and uses it as an exfoliant. He wakes up at 5:30 every morning, and what he loves about it is that it has peppermint oil in it, so it’s so invigorating. He says he can’t be without it because it’s his little boost of aromatherapy in the morning! It gives him energy! His skin, let me tell you, it is absolutely glowing and radiant now. It’s incredible to see the benefits firsthand—right in front of your eyes.

That’s a solid testimonial.

MK: People tell me all the time! My mom had rosacea, and when I was still sampling the products, I gave her the face oil and the moisturizer and it completely healed her skin.

The lack of confidence she had when she had rosacea— she didn’t want to go anywhere and it made her feel very insecure. The products are incredible for sensitive skin.

I even use them on the baby [Hart], and he’s 11 months now.

He’s like his dad: he started to get dry and developed a little bit of eczema on his legs, so every night when I bathe him, I use the body wash, the body lotion and the body balm. It has completely healed his skin.

It sounds like everyone in the family is a fan.

MK: Evan will not go anywhere without his products!

I tried to take them from him on our family vacation. He was on his way home and I was on my way to Europe.

I said, ‘I don’t want to travel on the plane without my face oil and mine is packed in my suitcase. Can I please take

“ M Y CHARACTER IS 80% GOOD GIRL AND 20% NAUGHTY. BALANCE IS IMPORTANT.”

yours because you’re going home now?’ He was like, ‘No way. I’m going to need my face oil.’ I said, ‘Honey, you’re going to get it in a couple of hours when you’re home. It’s no big deal.’ But his answer was: ‘No, I like to always keep that in my bag because what if I forget to take the one from home and I have to go somewhere?’ I finally said, ‘Fine! Keep the face oil. It’s fine.’

Do you both share any other wellness “musts” in your home?

MK: We have a lot. We have the air purifier. We have the stickers you put on the back of your phone for radiation.

I have the EMF detector that picks up the waves in the air.

I’ve had the whole house checked by a professional who looks for things like EMF waves and things like that. I even have something installed in my Malibu house to turn out all the power while we sleep. It’s basically a button that turns all the power off, except for the fridge and security cameras, in the nighttime. So when you go to sleep, you don’t have any Wi-Fi or electricity in the house at all.

That’s pretty serious.

MK: It’s like going camping! I also have an alkaline water filter so I can pick the pH of our water. There’s a lot of research on that—you don’t want to be going too alkaline because you do need a little stomach acid to digest your food. I typically choose somewhere around the 7.5 to 7.9 mark for the water. Then I like using Palo Santo to clear the energy in the space, and I also have little diffusers around the house with essential oils, depending on what’s going on. We even mop the floors with hot water and eucalyptus oil, which is what my mother used to do. It’s good for the wood and it’s antibacterial. It also smells really nice.

Back to the business question: There must be some very difficult things about running your own company, right?

MK: The hardest thing for me is probably our certification process—every product has to be certified and recognized

by COSMOS. It’s the most heavily regulated ingredients system and it guarantees that there’s nothing toxic or synthetic—no pesticides, herbicides or chemicals—used in the production of the ingredients or the manufacturing.

To achieve it, 95 percent of a product’s ingredients must be organic. The process is long and tedious, but I wanted it because there’s so much greenwashing out there these days.

There’s so much that goes into it.

MK: There should be! It’s going on your body, on your skin.

Until people know and are educated about it, they don’t even think about these things, but they’re important. I know it’s a silly example, but if we put unleaded gas in a car that requires leaded gas, it’s not going to work. We’re the same—we need to put the right fuel in and on our bodies for it to function properly. There’s so much logic to it.

S U P E R N AT U R A L Makeup: Andre Sarmiento at TMG-LA; Hair: Ericka Verrett at Starworks Artists; Styling: Milka Prica; Manicure: Kim Truong at Startouch Agency

WITH THESE HIGH-TECH COMBINATION THERAPIES, TWO IS THE MAGIC NUMBER.

POWER DUO OS O 1

ALASTIN SKINCARE TRANSFORM BODY TREATMENT + COOLSCULPTING

New York Dermatologist Amy Lewis, MD

“ALASTIN’S TRANSFORM BODY TREATMENT is a great complement to CoolSculpting. After CoolSculpting freezes the fat, the topical application of TransFORM has been shown to enhance and accelerate fat-reduction results while also tightening the skin.

I recommend TransFORM to all of my patients getting CoolSculpting procedures because it helps optimize their treatment and maximize results.”

ALASTIN Skincare TransFORM Body Treatment, $195, alastin.com

2

SKINCEUTICALS C E FERULIC + CLEAR + BRILLIANT Houston Dermatologist Karan K. Sra, MD “THERE’S NO BETTER COMBINATION TREATMENT than the Clear + Brilliant laser and SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic serum. C E Ferulic not only helps minimize sunspots, but also helps the effects of Clear + Brilliant last longer, so I recommend it to all of my patients who opt for the laser treatment.”

SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic, $166, skinceuticals.com

COURTESY OF LA PRAIRIE

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Chul-Hyun Ahn 4 DOTS 2019 La Prairie Pavilion, Art Basel Hong Kong

PLATELET-RICH PLASMA (PRP) + FRAXEL

Beverly Hills, CA Dermatologist Ava Shamban, MD “COMBINING TREATMENTS can give a patient an exponential result with added benefits. It actually showcases the fact that the whole IS greater than the sum of its parts. One of my favorite power couples is combining Fraxel with PRP, which is excellent for the arms and legs. It’s a dynamic duo that is highly effective for reducing brown spots, evening texture and the ‘tissue issues’ of crepiness and laxity. A highly synergistic combo, the two also deliver a cascade of growth factors that get to work in the dermis and continue to extend the benefits in key areas at the cellular level.”

5

BREAST RECONSTRUCTION + LIGHT JACKET Old Lyme, CT Plastic Surgeon Vinod Pathy, MD

“I’VE HAD THE PRIVILEGE OF performing a significant amount of breast reconstruction procedures, and in many of those surgeries, I find myself working in deep, dark cavities. As a result, my team and I developed a novel, disposable device—the Light Jacket—that improves visibility for myself and other surgeons without the effects of neck strain, reliance on an assistant or clumsy cables.

When my vision is improved in combination with a low level of stress and minimal commotion in those dark spaces, my patient becomes the ultimate winner.”

4

A FACELIFT + TRANEXAMIC ACID New York Facial Plastic Surgeon Matthew White, MD “MY FAVORITE POWER COMBO is a facelift and tranexamic acid.

The facelift addresses the three key supporting ligaments in the face, which, as we journey through life, begin to stretch out, causing sagging of the facial canvas. By restoring these three key ligaments, we can restore a beautiful neck and jawline.

Tranexamic acid, injected locally into the tissues before we start surgery, helps eliminate bruising, which is a key element in my rapid-recovery approach.”

6

COOLSCULPTING + ULTHERAPY West Islip, NY Dermatologist Kavita Mariwalla, MD

“I WOULD SAY THERE ARE SOME universal truths women complain about. One, I’ve never met a patient who doesn’t tell me she wants to lose 10 pounds. Two, every woman at a certain point in time hates her neck. This combination treatment debulks and tightens skin to create a more youthful appearance overall without looking pulled. ‘Cobra neck’ is not cute, and this combination gives you the angle of the jaw and sweep of the neck that results in a beautiful, youthful restoration.”

COURTESY OF LA PRAIRIE

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Chul-Hyun Ahn LIGHT DRAWING 2019 La Prairie Pavilion, Art Basel Hong Kong

E D I TO R ’S P I C K

LA PRAIRIE WHITE CAVIAR INFUSION + WHITE CAVIAR CRÉME EXTRAORDINAIRE

“It is not about adding years to life, but adding life to years.”

— DR. PAUL NIEHANS, FOUNDER OF CLINIQUE LA PRAIRIE

HYPERPIGMENTATION USUALLY TAKES CENTER STAGE IN OUR QUEST FOR GLOWING SKIN, but according to research conducted by scientists at La Prairie, three other hues—red from micro-inflammation, yellow from glycated collagen and gray from particle pollution—also affect its radiance. “Luminosity depends on the amount and quality of light reflected from skin, and chromatic disturbances at various layers in the skin result from the absorption of light by pigments, eventually reducing luminosity,” says Dr. Daniel Stangl, director of innovation for La Prairie. Fortunately, five years of in-house studies revealed that the potent combination of White Caviar Illuminating Pearl Infusion under best-selling Crème Extraordinaire reduces all four types of this dyschromia. The brand’s proprietary Lumidose “is the most potent inhibitor of human tyrosinase we know of today,” says Dr. Stangl; golden caviar extract stimulates the formation of collagen and improves reflection of light, and for those battling pollution, the duo can keep gray particles from sticking to the skin. To celebrate this finding, La Prairie commissioned light artist Chul-Hyun Ahn to create 4 Dots, a mix of LED lights and mirrors that reflect an endless series of gray, yellow, red and brown circles— proving that in the right setting, spots can be infinitely beautiful.

La Prairie White Caviar Illuminating Pearl Infusion ($570) and Crème Extraordinaire ($725), laprairie.com

According to Denver dermatologist Joel Cohen, MD, in addition to sunscreen, wearing a wide-brim hat or UVblocking visor, using an umbrella and seeking shade when the sun is the strongest, are all part of a smart sunprotection strategy.

THE

JAMIE NELSON/BLAUBLUT-EDITION.COM, ANNA LUNDGAARD AT MUSE NYC

SPF EDIT As the FDA revs up its review of sunscreen, summer looks toward the latest skin-saving trends. by

ELIZABETH RITTER

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to-read active ingredients and companies will only be able to claim broad-spectrum if the ingredients also cover UVA rays.”

Cincinnati cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos is also a big fan of the broad-spectrum directive, mainly because it’s the one that will force manufacturers to innovate. “The drive to meet the broad-spectrum requirements that come with higher SPFs will require manufacturers to bring new and unique formulations to the market,” she says. “The FDA’s sunscreen monograph lists the acceptable active ingredients, and currently there is only one UVA absorber, avobenzone, which is not entirely stable on its own. Innovation will also continue in the development of film formers that allow for more even application and wear resistance to sweat and water exposure.”

The big question: whether consumers will adapt. Denver dermatologist Joel Cohen, MD doesn’t think it will come down to manufacturers’ moves, but instead, the public’s. “There’s going to be more advocacy for physical sunscreens, which comes with accepting the need to reapply more frequently—something the average person hasn’t typically done.

Derms have always been fans of it; now, hopefully, everyone will be.”

BETH STUDENBERG/THE LICENSING PROJECT.COM, PAIGE YATES AT MP MIAMI

T

his past February, the FDA proposed new sunscreen regulations—something Greenwich, CT dermatologist Lynne Haven, MD and many other skin-care specialists, thought was long overdue.

“In the U.S., we have not been up-to-date in this area in a while. It’s sad that the rest of the world has options we don’t.” (The FDA has not approved a new over-the-counter sunscreen active since 1999. There are currently 16 UV filters approved for use in the United States, compared to 29 in Europe.)

In addition to being happy that something is in the works for an SPF update—as of press time, the FDA is seeking public comment until the end of May, with the proposed date for final regulations being November 26—Dr. Haven pinpoints two parts of the proposal as ones she’s particularly fond of: “There are two active ingredients—zinc oxide and titanium dioxide—which the FDA is classifying as generally safe and effective.

These are the mineral-based sunscreens that have long been my personal favorites, and I recommend them to patients on a daily basis. Plus, the labeling of sunscreens in the future should be clearer; we’ll have easier-

THE NEW RULES

THERE ARE MANY NEW POINTS REGARDING THE LATEST FDA PROPOSALS FOR SUNSCREEN REGULATION; HERE, THE OFFICIAL SEVEN:

1

Firstly, the FDA wants to establish which existing OTC sunscreen products may be marketed without having to go through rigorous new drug application and approval process.

Those that are grandfathered in are deemed GRASE (Generally Recognized as Safe and Effective), like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide (at concentrations of up to 25 percent). Two other ingredients, PABA and trolamine salicylate, have been found to not fall under GRASE due to safety issues.

2

Oils, lotions, creams, gels, butters, pastes, ointments and sticks would be acceptable vehicles for sunscreens. “Sprays, however, would be subject to additional testing to minimize potential risks from unintended inhalation and flammability in addition to drying time-testing and labeling requirements,” says Dobos. Any new formulations like powders, towelettes, wipes, body washes and shampoos will need added testing as they do not have a history of use prior to 1972, which was the criteria for inclusion into the agency’s original monograph.

3

Due to concerns about adequate broad spectrum protection (UVA and UVB) at higher SPF levels, the FDA raised the maximum SPF claim from SPF 50+ to 60+.

4

Sunscreens with an SPF value of 15 or higher will be required to also provide broad-spectrum protection and as SPF increases, the protection against UVA radiation must also increase.

“SPF only indicates UVB protection, while UVA are the deeper penetrating rays that contribute to accelerated skin aging,” adds Dobos. “This was done to ensure consumers get the protection they expect to get.”

BLUE LIGHT SPECIAL

5

Products that combine insect repellents with sunscreens will not be considered GRASE.

Blue light can have positive effects on the skin, and is even used as a safe and effective treatment for mild acne. “But, we are being subjected to more blue light than ever before due to the prevalence of LED light bulbs and exposure from backlighting of our personal devices like smartphones,” Dobos explains. “Research shows the potential of blue light, or HEV, to degrade structural proteins like

6

Clarifying the agency’s expectations for testing and record keeping by entities that test sunscreens to make sure the FDA can assess industry regulation compliance.

7

New label requirements to help consumers identify key information, including added active ingredients—placed on the front of the sunscreen package like other OTC drugs— including a skin cancer and skin aging alert for sunscreens that have not been shown to help prevent skin cancer; and revised formats for SPF, broad-spectrum and water resistance statements.

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collagen and elastin in the skin, which contribute to inflammation and extrinsic skin aging.” Glenn Dale, MD dermatologist Valerie Callender, MD agrees.

“Recent data even shows that HEV may contribute to the development of melasma,” she says. “I think it’s smart for melasma patients, in particular, to use a tinted sunscreen that contains minerals to manage the condition.”

BEHIND THE BAN While some debate the most significant contribution to coral bleaching is climate change, there is undeniable concern that some chemical sunscreens like octinoxate and oxybenzone can contribute to coral bleaching, according to Dobos. “But, a study from the Polytechnic University of Marche in Italy estimated only a small portion of coral reefs worldwide—about 10 percent—are threatened by sunscreen-induced bleaching,” she says. “To avoid possibly damaging coral reefs, beach-goers can select a formulation that utilizes titanium dioxide and zinc oxide as active ingredients.”

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HERE COMES THE SUN

FROM COMPLETELY CLEAR CREAMS TO MODERN SCALP PROTECTION, ‘TIS THE SEASON FOR NEW SPF LAUNCHES.

EYE CANDY

MINERAL MAGIC

SCALP AID

POWER PROTECTOR

Derm-fave Colorescience Total Eye 3-in-1 goes the full-regimen route with its new day-to-night Total Eye Restore system. $165, colorescience.com

Perfect for sensitive skin, silicone-free TIZO Sheer Botanicals SPF 45 features the mineral mix of titanium and zinc oxide. $30, tizofusion.com

The scalp gets some attention with Soleil Toujours Extrème Face + Scalp Sunscreen Mist SPF 50 Sport. $36, soleiltoujours.com

Antioxidant- and vitamin-rich La Roche-Posay Mineral Anthelios SunscreenGentle Lotion serves up SPF 50 in a skin-softening formula. $30, cvs.com

INVISIBLE TOUCH Clean and green, bioClarity SunFilter SPF 30 goes on matte and works amazingly well as a makeup primer. $25, bioclarity.com

HYDRATION NATION

GLOW SOURCE

SPORT SESSION

LIGHTS ON

POWDER PLAY

Coconut- and hyaluronic acid–fueled Kopari Sundaze delivers nongreasy, perfectly hydrated SPF 30 protection. $34, koparibeauty.com

Light-reflecting mica and a touch of shimmer up the glow factor in Bare Republic SPF 30 Mineral Metallic Sunscreen. $15, ulta.com

Éminence Organic Lilikoi Mineral Defense Sport SPF 30 smells like a vacation, and as a bonus, protects against blue light. $52, eminenceorganics.com

Deemed the “world’s first SPF highlighter,” Petiue SPF Highlighter contours, protects and makes midday touch-ups beautifully easy. $36, petiue.com

Prepped with a product that already takes the FDA suggestions into effect, ISDIN Mineral Brush 50 takes the guesswork out of application. $55, isdin.com

THE EYES HAVE IT

JAMIE NELSON/BLAUBLUT-EDITION.COM, ALICE RAUSCH AT TALENTS MODELS

A recent study by the University of Liverpool found that when it comes to applying moisturizers with SPF, the eyelids—one of the most vulnerable areas—are often skipped. “This is an important concern,” Dr. Haven says. “Besides UV-blocking sunglasses, I recommend products formulated for the area, such as Colorescience Total Eye and SkinCeuticals Physical Eye UV Defense.”

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GREAT ESCAPES

THE BLING RING

TOP DOCTORS ACROSS THE COUNTRY SHARE THEIR FAVORITE INTERNATIONAL FUN-IN-THE-SUNSCREEN GETAWAYS. B Y E M I LY TAY L O R

HOUSTON DERMATOLOGIST JENNIFER SEGAL, MD

CHICAGO DERMATOLOGIST DR. QUENBY ERICKSON

NEWPORT BEACH, CA PLASTIC SURGEON GORETTI TAGHVA, MD

SUGAR LAND, TX PLASTIC SURGEON PETER CHANG, MD

ORLAND PARK, IL PLASTIC SURGEON DAVID DREYFUSS, MD

“I love the Amangiri Resort. The setting is exquisite, the service is impeccable and the food is divine! It’s ideal for unwinding and focusing on one’s health—I leave feeling balanced, renewed and pampered. I always make sure to bring Avène’s Mineral Tinted Compact SPF 50 when I travel because it’s my favorite mineral-based coverage for my face. It also stays on for hours, so it’s perfect for swimming, skiing and hiking. It’s easy to carry and reapply too! I also love all EltaMD products.”

“I recently visited the Ritz-Carlton Beach Resort in Naples, FL and had a wonderful experience. From the beautiful, powder-white beaches to the multiple swimming pools and grounds, it was truly delightful! Heliocare is a must-have on a sunny vacation—it’s a natural plant extract supplement that helps decrease photosensitivity, thereby reducing risk of sunburn.

I also love Alastin Skincare HydraTint SPF 36, as it gives my skin a nice glow while protecting it.”

“My favorite resorts are Aman. They all have stunning architecture and impeccable services, and are located in the most beautiful locations in the world. As I write this, I’m about to hop on a plane with my husband to Amanjena in Morocco!

My go-to sunscreen is the Hydroglow SPF 40 from my own cosmetic line, LEA Aesthetics. It is a zinc oxide–powered SPF that’s anti-aging and moisturizing, and has antioxidants to protect against free radicals.”

“My favorite luxury resort and spa is the Bellagio in Las Vegas. It’s like a city inside itself with lots of restaurants, shops, pools, big production shows, a full-service spa and a casino. The resort also has an enormous water feature that plays music and goes off several times each hour. I usually carry at least an SPF of 50 for my sunscreen when I’m there because the sun can be really powerful in Vegas. Higher SPFs are sometimes harder to find, but my favorite is Obagi Medical Sun Shield.”

“I know many people probably prefer more exotic locations, but I really enjoy going to Lake Placid in the summer and staying at the Lake Placid Lodge. It’s an absolutely beautiful place. My family loves to hike, kayak and boat. It is extremely relaxing, the food is great and there are wonderful accommodations. The sunscreen I always pack when I travel is PCA Skin Weightless Protection.

It’s SPF 45, comfortable to wear all day long, easy to reapply, and doesn’t make me look pasty.”

Amanjena Resort in Marrakech, Morocco

Madinat Jumeirah in Dubai Amangiri Resort in Canyon Point, UT

DANBURY, CT DERMATOLOGIST MONA GOHARA, MD

BEVERLY HILLS, CA FACIAL PLASTIC SURGEON DAVIS B. NGUYEN, MD

“I love relaxing at the Madinat Jumeirah in Dubai. The air literally smells like jasmine, and the award-winning Talise Spa offers the best massages ever. Seriously what’s more to love? I never leave for vacation without Shiseido Clear Stick WetForce SPF 50+, and I always reapply during the day with Colorescience Sunforgettable Brush-On SPF 50. It’s an invisible powder, so reapplication is easy, and it doesn’t make my brown skin look white.”

“I love Terranea on California’s Palos Verdes Peninsula. It’s a luxury, seaside resort with every possible amenity. There’s a luxurious spa, multiple restaurants, and pools for both adults and families.

I like to bring my privatelabel sunscreen that is SPF 50 and contains both zinc and titanium oxide; I think it’s extremely important to protect one’s skin with a broad-spectrum physical UV-blocker containing micronized metals, versus some over-the-counter chemical sunscreens.”

Lake Placid Lodge in Lake Placid, NY

Terranea Resort in Rancho Palos Verdes, CA

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STRESS HELP!

The world we live in seems rife with unavoidable stressors.

Urgent “read me now” messages come flying through our smartphones on the hour. News outlets reporting on the latest tragedy run

by

TATI ANA BIDO

on a constant loop, the car-pool lane is always backed up, work deadlines seem neverending, the train never runs on time, and the laundry doesn’t fold itself—and that’s just the morning routine. Stress is inevitable. Whether it’s daily stressors chipping away at us or a big, life-changing experience that rocks us to our core, stress isn’t just giving us agita and making us irritable. This natural physical and mental reaction can wreak havoc on our faces and bodies, aging us faster than a lifetime of smoking and bad eating habits. Here, we tap the experts to help us minimize the damage, and as Frankie says, RELAX.

ROBERT WHITMAN/THE LICENSING PROJECT.COM

IS RUINING MY LOOK

GUTTER CREDIT

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According to Heidi Hanna, PhD, executive director of the American Institute of Stress, although we may feel like we’re juggling more than our parents or grandparents did, that’s not exactly the case. “Most people today are more physically and financially secure than in generations past,” she says, “but we have become bombarded with overstimulating noise, to the point that our nervous systems have become much more sensitive. At the same time, technological advancements have put greater demands on our time and energy.

Because we aren’t prioritizing our personal recharge and stress-mastery techniques, the consequences are greater than ever.”

When we get super stressed, our body takes a major hit. It responds by releasing hormones that increase breathing and heart rates, and our muscles get tighter and ready to respond to the perceived danger. “Stress hormones are designed to help you survive a life-threatening situation,” says New York dermatologist Doris Day, MD. “Your blood pressure and energy levels go up and your body turns off functions that are not essential to your survival, like digestion and reproduction. Because your body is on high alert, you think more clearly, and learning and memory are enhanced.

That’s very useful if you’re dealing with a true life-threatening situation, but in today’s world, we often react to minor situations with that same level of stress response.” It’s times when stress piles on that our physiological response doesn’t turn off and stress levels stay elevated much longer than necessary. During these bouts, physical symptoms begin to manifest from the inside out.

For women, dealing with stress can lead to even more stress. “The primary reactions of the male brain pattern are ‘fight or flight,” says Dr. Hanna, “while the female brain pattern is more hardwired to ‘tend and befriend.’ The combination of stress hormones with elevated estrogen and oxytocin can cause us to react by wanting to take care of others or nurture meaningful relationships.” Dr. Hanna says that when we put self-care on the back burner and hear well-meant advice like “hit the gym” or “fix the problem,” it can stress us even more.

HERE’S HOW THINGS GET UGLY

What’s Happening to My Body?

ASIDE FROM THE ONSET OF “RESTING BITCH FACE,” STRESS CAN ALSO TURN US INTO A VERITABLE WILDEBEEST. HERE’S HOW CHRONIC STRESS CAN DO A NUMBER ON OUR GOOD LOOKS.

SKIN

“Constant worry can trigger the same stress response as a major threat—the release of adrenalin and other stress hormones— which over time can negatively impact our skin,” says Dr. Day. “Studies show that long-term stress suppresses the immune system in all organs, including our skin, making us more susceptible to infections and even disrupting menstrual cycles, which can lead to hormonal breakouts.” Miami dermatologist Dr. Janice Lima-Maribona says cortisol, the primary stress hormone, is the main culprit.

“Normally, cortisol levels oscillate by our internal circadian clock, with peak levels in the morning and low points happening around midnight. When we’re stressed, our cortisol levels are disrupted, which can cause acne and exacerbate conditions like eczema, psoriasis, rosacea and atopic dermatitis.” Although we may live in a skin-care obsessed culture, according to New York dermatologist Julie Russak, MD, our body hasn’t caught on yet: “Our skin, hair and nails are of the lowest importance to our survival,” she says. “So, at times of stress, valuable vitamins and minerals are prioritized for our body’s vital metabolic processes and the production of stress hormones. Skin is an external barometer of what is happening internally, and we often see dull skin at times of fatigue and stress.” A dull complexion is the least of our worries—we can also expect more lines and wrinkles, too. “Consistently elevated levels

of cortisol is catabolic to the body, meaning we are breaking down and failing to repair tissues, which leads to decreased collagen and elastin production,” adds Dr. Russak. “With chronic stress we also ‘tire out’ our adrenal glands and deplete their ability to react properly to stress.”

HAIR

Yes, your job can make your hair fall out! Prolonged periods of high stress can lead to a disturbance of the hair cycle. Stress can cause telogen effluvium, a condition that occurs when a large amount of hair follicles are pushed into the resting phase. The affected hairs may fall out or end up left behind in a hair brush. Alopecia areata, which happens when the body’s immune system attacks the hair follicles causing hair loss, can also be brought on by the body’s reaction to stress. “A patient of mine was losing hair after a close family member was diagnosed with cancer,” says Dr. Lima-Maribona. “It was not either of these two issues, but I learned she was picking at her scalp. The urge to pull hair out of the scalp is called trichotillomania, and for that, I recommended she also seek psychiatric help.”

NAILS

Cortisol has been shown to cause a loss of biotin in the body, and the combination of adrenal fatigue (which reduces how our body absorbs essential nutrients) and high stress can weaken nails.

Healthy nails require vitamins and minerals like protein, biotin, silica, magnesium, zinc, and iron.

“Stress makes it harder for our bodies to absorb the nutrients they need, so nail ridging, pitting, and shredding are all side effects,” says Dr. Lima-Maribona. “People coping with stress tend to abuse their nails with repetitive rubbing or biting, which also causes more damage to the nail bed.”

RELAXING REMEDIES

Essential oil blends can do much more than just scent a room. EO co-founder Susan Griffin Black gives the 411 on how to harness these aromatic compounds to relieve tension and stress.

How do essential oils help battle stress? 

Essential oils connect directly with the part of our brain responsible for emotions.

By breathing in relaxing scents, we can jumpstart a calmer mood. They can also help us take a pause and be more present in the moment.

How can they help with physical symptoms? 

Lavender, frankincense and rose are wonderful balancing oils that can help skin look bright and refreshed. Oils like geranium, lavender and tea tree can help excessively oily skin look more balanced.

Hair loss can be a result of an overly tight scalp. Mixing a few calming oils into a base oil and massaging them into the scalp a few times a week can help ease tension. I recommend a mix of lavender, cedarwood, rosemary and clary sage in jojoba oil for a stimulating scalp massage.

PETER ROSA//THE LICENSING PROJECT.COM

TEETH

One way our body deals with stress can start in our mouths.

“Stress can cause us to clench and grind our teeth, resulting in joint and muscle pain called temporomandibular disorders, or TMD,” says New York cosmetic dentist Irene Grafman, DDS. “This results in headaches, neck and back aches, and worn-down, unattractive-looking teeth. Over time, chronic TMD can also create more than just aesthetic issues. As teeth are ground down, it can result in the tongue or oral tissue collapsing and closing off the body’s airway, leading to problems like sleep apnea.”

What are the best methods of delivery? 

BODY

“We are more likely to overeat at times of stress, reaching for foods high in carbohydrates and sugars that release dopamine, a neurotransmitter that makes us feel good. And even just one night of less than five hours of sleep can lead to the consumption of an extra 300 calories,” says holistic nutritionist Jennifer Hanway.

“Studies have shown that women with high cortisol levels tend to store more visceral fat, the ‘deep’ fat stored further underneath the skin and around the organs linked to metabolic diseases and increased inflammation, than those with lower levels.” n e w b e a u t y.c o m

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55% of adults in the U.S. say they experience “a lot”of daily stress, compared with just 35 percent globally SOURCE: 2019 GALLUP POLL

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I want to steer people away from ingesting essential oils.

They are far too concentrated for our bodies to absorb internally. For example, a single drop of lemon essential oil has the essence of more than six whole lemons. That’s a lot to take in all at once!

There are two delivery methods that work best: diffusing and applying topically. Put a few drops in a diffuser and breathe in the scent around you. To apply topically, always remember to dilute them first by mixing into a base oil or lotion.

COPING MECHANISMS

WHETHER IT’S MEDITATION OR MICRONEEDLING, TURNING OFF THE STRESS FAUCET AND UNDOING THE DAMAGE THAT’S BEEN DONE ARE STEPS ONE AND TWO OF GETTING OUR BODIES BACK ON TRACK. According to Haemin Sunim, Buddhist teacher and author of the mindfulness guide The Things You Can See Only When You Slow Down: How to Be Calm and Mindful in a Fast-Paced World, taking time to unwind shouldn’t stress us out more. “The most important thing is to start with the intention to care for yourself,” he says.

“Once you have made that intention, assign a specific amount of time each day to taking care of yourself. If you only have a few seconds, take a deep breath and smile. If you only have 10 minutes, walk around and stretch. With half an hour, you can take time to do things you like, listen to your favorite songs, have a conversation with a loved one, or just give yourself time to relax.”

Dr. Hanna says changing your mindset is key. “Work from the bottom up to rebalance your brain and nervous system. Calm your body, shift to a positive emotion like gratitude, and then focus on a simple, practical adjustment that will have maximum benefit, like the ‘Breathe, Feel and Focus’ or ‘BFF’ technique.” If chronic stress is too hard to handle alone, she recommends incorporating electrotherapy. “It uses a gentle electrical current to stimulate specific groups of nerve cells in the brain. This nudges the nervous system into a calmer state.”

Working alongside Dr. Russak, nutritionist Jennifer Hanway helps patients get to the source of the problem.

“We highly recommend comprehensive biomarker and blood testing, so we can see at a cellular level how stress is impacting the body. This allows us to give personalized recommendations, resulting in a quicker improvements,” says Hanway. “We understand the skin-gut connection,” adds Dr. Russak, “and we know food sensitivities can be the culprits of conditions such as eczema, skin allergies and chronic inflammation. Our wellness analysis reveals important information about what is going on in the body.

This analysis also supports healthy gene expression to protect precious proteins, including collagen and elastin.”

Sunim says, if all else fails, just lean into it: “When you find yourself feeling stressed, rather than increasing it by adding more unnecessary internal dialog, learn to simply acknowledge it. Stress is inevitable, but also essential.”

“ The most important thing is to start with the intention to care for yourself.”

—HAEMIN SUNIM

TREAT YOURSELF

Although stress may be inevitable, a visit to the doctor can help correct and restore the damage it has caused. For skin, “we encourage procedures that increase our patients’ own ability to regenerate skin and hair,” says Dr. Russak.

“For example, we pair collagen induction such as radiofrequency microneedling with platelet-rich plasma (PRP) and PRP injections into the scalp for hair loss.”

Dr. Lima-Maribona incorporates lasers, light therapies, facials and peels in the office, and may recommend medications like, “benzoyl peroxide, tretinoin, tazarotene, clindamycin, Soolantra and topical dapsone as needed for rosacea and acne.” She also advises taking ashwagandha to normalize hormone levels. “This natural herb decreases cortisol levels, which in turn decreases stress,” she says. “For weakened nails, I advise taking a multi-vitamin with biotin, and a nail hardener that contains keratin-like properties.”

UNWIND THE GRIND

To release tight jaw clenching, many doctors are injecting Botox Cosmetic off-label into the masseters. To correct teeth misalignment and adjust tooth height to help reverse the effects of TMD, Dr. Grafman says skip the crowns and veneers. “In some instances, they require removal of healthy tooth structure. I prefer to realign and rebuild grounddown teeth conservatively with bonding. I can reestablish a proper bite, create a beautiful smile, and improve joint, muscle and sleep patterns without drilling teeth.”

FIGHT THE FAT

To shrink the belly bulge, Dr. Russak and Hanway often start by asking patients to do less, not more. “Switching out cortisol-raising cardio workouts for metabolism-boosting strength training can lower stress and boost metabolism.

Work out smarter, not harder,” says Hanway. “Gut health is of utmost importance, as poor gut health causes chronic inflammation and malabsorption. Even if we are eating the healthiest of diets, we need to ensure we are absorbing all the nutrients for optimum health and beauty. We always joke with our patients and say, ‘It’s not what we eat, but what we absorb.’ And by balancing blood sugar through low carb, fiber-packed diets, we increase insulin sensitivity, which can lower cortisol levels.” For stubborn pockets of fat that just won’t go away, Dr. Russak recommends several sessions of CoolSculpting. “It can help patients get a slimmer abdomen and reduce up to 25 percent of fat in the treated area. It’s my go-to fat reducer and perfect for women with busy lifestyles who don’t need the extra stress of undergoing surgical intervention.”

GRUIZZA/GETTY IMAGES

SWEET RELIEF These skin savers and mindfulness miracle workers can help us calm our nerves and achieve a better mood, better skin and better sleep.

RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Night Cream ($23, ulta.com)

Bluebird Botanicals Signature Hemp CBD Oil ($30, bluebird botanicals.com) N E W B E A U T Y.C O M

Hush & Hush MindYourMind Nutraceuticals ($65, hushand hush.com) |

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Aenea Skin Anti-Stress Super Hero Serum ($265, house ofaenea.com)

Aera Smart Essential Oil Diffuser ($200, aeraforhome.com)

SKIN

TEXT GUTTER CREDIT

THE GUIDE:

GUTTER CREDIT

URE

I

F OUR SKIN WAS GUARANTEED TO REMAIN AS SMOOTH AND SOFT AS IT WAS RIGHT OUT OF THE WOMB, it would eliminate

the need for resurfacing exfoliators and dry skin–quenching hydrators.

But sadly, we don’t get to keep our babysoft skin forever, and bumpy, irregular texture seems inevitable as we get older due to aging, sun exposure and other environmental aggressors. From tiny bump clusters that seem to pop up out of nowhere to acne scars and cellulite—and everything in between—rough, uneven skin isn’t reserved for our elbows or the bottoms of our feet. After examining every inch of our bodies and fielding all of our burning questions to the pros, here’s everything we know about how to achieve smoother, glowier skin, head to toe.

PORE CURRICULUM CAN PORES REALLY GET SMALLER? WE PUT A MICROSCOPE TO THE LATEST METHODS FOR ACHIEVING PORE PERFECTION.

MICRONEEDLING

A pore-altering tool in many dermatologists’ kits, microneedling creates tiny wounds in the skin, stimulating the wound-healing response with collagen production and reducing the appearance of pores. “Newer microneedling radio-frequency (RF) technologies, like Vivace, have been the best option to smooth skin in my experience,” says Fort Lauderdale dermatologist Dr. Igor Chaplik.

“The noninsulated tips of the device provide an amazing result in pore size reduction, oiliness, texture, and tone.” West Palm Beach, FL dermatologist Kenneth R. Beer, MD says that although microneedling has received flak in the past—if not performed correctly, it can damage skin—it is now getting the level of scrutiny it deserves, and is being used with active ingredients that can positively impact skin quality. “Keep an eye out for companies that are marketing their products the right way, with FDA approval,” he says.

“ Pore size is like shoe size; it’s genetically predetermined.”

–DR. OMER IBRAHIM

RETINOL/RETINOIDS

Although no research has specifically connected retinoids to a measurable drop in sebum production, consistent use has proven to make pores look smaller, as well as smooth away the majority of other texture issues like wrinkles, dry patches and acne. According to New Orleans dermatologist Mary Lupo, MD, “Topical retinoids help by improving cell turnover, and oral retinoids shrink pores by decreasing the size of the sebaceous gland.”

New York dermatologist Peter Chien, MD adds that pores are more noticeable if you have comedones: plugs of sebum and keratin that stretch them out. “If skin is not sun-damaged, reducing the comedones with a topical retinoid will help the pores shrink again,” he explains. “Very sun-damaged skin will have irreversible enlarged pores—like in FavreRacouchot syndrome—as the damaged elastin will not allow the pores to snap back. In this case, a fractional laser may be able to tighten the pores by producing new elastin.”

NEUROTOXINS

More than a decade ago, doctors began experimenting with shallow intradermal injections of Botox Cosmetic to minimize sebum production, and patients experienced a reduction in pore size. The anticholinergic action of Botox—it prevents neutrotransmitter acetylcholine from binding to receptors in nerve cells—works to temporarily minimize pores in the same way it smooths forehead wrinkles.

According to Covington, LA dermatologist Christel Malinski, MD, “Micro-Botox helps reduce the appearance of pores by working on the small muscle attached to the hair follicle called the arrector pili muscle.”

ALL THE SMALL THINGS Some of the biggest speed bumps on the road to clear skin are actually pretty tiny: Milia look like tiny whiteheads, but are actually shallow, miniature cysts.

They can be caused by heavy occlusive creams or by irritating an area by rubbing it, which is why milia are common around the eye area. “To treat milia, we open up the overlying skin with a tiny blade or needle, and express the cysts,” Dr. Ibrahim explains.

“You can prevent or slow down their occurrence by using a retinoid.”

PREVIOUS PAGE: JOSEPH CLARK/GETTY IMAGES, STILLLIFEPHOTOGRAPHER/GETTY IMAGES

Google searches for “How to Shrink Pores” peak every summer, which makes sense, considering sebum—the oil secreted by skin in conjunction with sweat—is one of the main causes of large pores. The thick fluid presses on the pore walls, making them expand. But let’s get one thing straight: Our pores may seem to grow or shrink temporarily, but their size never actually changes.

Chicago dermatologist Omer Ibrahim, MD explains it this way: “Pore size is like shoe size; it’s genetically predetermined.”

THE PEEL SESSIONS tools for refining skin texture and tone, and treat a variety of skin conditions such as sun damage, dark spots, fine lines and wrinkles, superficial scarring, and acne,” says New York dermatologist Melissa Kanchanapoomi Levin, MD. Although at-home versions are a dime a dozen, dermatologists and plastic surgeons recommend receiving these treatments in-office because they can be performed using a stronger concentration of ingredients for more effective results. These are the three most common types:

“Honey, I’ve had a little something done.” In that famous Sex and the City episode, Samantha and Carrie— so good at hyping up Fendi baguettes, cosmopolitans and irritating men—demonized the chemical peel for an entire generation. Developed in the ’50s as a method for minimizing deep wrinkles and scars on the face, chemical peels are liquid acid mixtures that are applied to the face, neck and/or hands to cause exfoliation that results in the peeling and shedding of dead skin. “They’re powerful

1LIGHT

Also referred to as “lunchtime peels,” these 20-minute fast fixes are great for first-time peelers.

“Milder concentrations of salicylic and glycolic acids, as well as lower-percentage trichloracetic acid (TCA)—between 10 and 25 percent—are used to penetrate only the outer layer of skin, gently exfoliating it to smooth rough areas, as well as improve mild acne, hyperpigmentation and fine lines,” says Dr. Malinski.

Expect mild redness that subsides after a day or so. Often, the skin won’t physically peel.

2 MEDIUM

“These are commonly made up of around 25–35 percent TCA and target deeper layers of skin to treat more substantial wrinkles and sun damage,” says Dallas dermatologist Elizabeth Bahar Houshmand, MD. “As a result of the increased penetration, they can significantly improve skin texture and fine lines, and can also be used to treat some types of precancerous skin growths, such as actinic keratoses.” Mediumstrength peels require about a week of healing time, as “skin is noticeably red and the peeling is heavier,” says Dr. Chaplik.

3 DEEP

These potent peels use phenol to target lower layers of skin—so deep, in fact, that many of them are done in surgical centers.

“They produce injuries within the dermis to treat moderateto-severe sun damage and wrinkles,” says Dr. Houshmand.

“While deep peels can offer the most dramatic improvement, they also come with a longer recovery—up to three weeks, during which the skin sheds severely—and a greater risk of scarring and hyperpigmentation, or hypopigmentation, especially in those with dark skin tones.”

SUN SMART An important thing to remember when doing any kind of peel is that the acidic formulas leave skin very sensitive to the sun. “Wearing a physical sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher post-peel is critical to ensure skin stays protected as it heals,” Dr. Levin says.

THE KIT

GUTTER CREDIT

Gentle enough for daily use, Dior Capture Youth AgeDelay Progressive Peeling Creme clarifies, smooths and energizes skin ($90, dior.com); Murad Replenishing Multi-Acid Peel combines alphahydroxy, betahydroxy and transexamic acids ($65, murad.com); and 96-percent natural Sephora Collection Glow Peel Pads use glycolic acid from sugar cane to unclog pores ($15, sephora.com)

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THE SHINING

FULL SERVICE

Glow Recipe cofounders Sarah Lee and Christine Chang share their best practices for achieving full-body “glass skin.”

JUST LIKE USING SPACKLE TO PERFECT A WALL OR A LAYER OF LUSH FROSTING TO SMOOTH THE TOP OF A CAKE, FILLERS REFINE UNEVEN TEXTURE.

SURFACE TENSION

Acne scars can last decades after teenage blemishes are forgotten. One fix offering longterm relief: Bellafill, an FDA-approved filler made from synthetic polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) that doctors inject into acne scars and pitted skin. “Bellafill is amazing for distensible acne scars—the ones that disappear when you pull them tight—and can last up to a year,” says Fort Lauderdale, FL dermatologist Dr. Matthew Elias.

To achieve optimal results with Bellafill, doctors often use subcision—inserting a needle under the skin’s surface to help break up scar tissue—prior to injecting. “This typically yields beautiful results and can immediately improve scars,” adds Dr. Elias. In clinical studies, an impressive 96 percent of Bellafill-treated scars showed improvement. Doctors can also fill acne scars with hyaluronic-acid options, which can easily be dissolved, but they don’t have the proven longevity of Bellafill. However, for scars with sharp edges, also known as boxcar and icepick scars, Newport Beach, CA dermatologist Anne Marie Freeman McNeill, MD recommends smoothing fractionated laser treatments or deep chemical peels instead.

CRYSTAL CLEAR

Though not yet FDA-approved in the U.S., a hyaluronic acid filler called Juvéderm Volite is part of a new wave of “skin boosters” designed to smooth fine lines and improve overall skin quality for a “glass skin” effect.

Whereas traditional HA fillers are made of a firm gel that targets deeper layers of skin to sculpt and lift it, skin boosters are “smoother, thinner gels that get micro-injected just under the surface of the skin to enhance the appearance of the skin rather than just treat wrinkles,” says Dr. Beer. “We expect to see them arrive stateside in the next couple years.”

One recent study in Milan tested the effects of Volite in 40 women ages 35 to 60, and the skin-smoothing benefits were immediate and clinically measurable. “Skin-boosting has been common practice for years in Asia where I grew up,” says Dr. Levin. “I use Restylane Silk as a booster off-label, as it is an incredibly hydrating, light filler like Volite, and is already used in Canada, Europe and other regions as a booster.” Some European beauty editors opt for the treatment as often as monthly, although the derms we spoke to said only one session every six months is needed.

THE KIT Apply Kevyn Aucoin Glass Glow Face anywhere you want an instant radiance boost ($32, sephora.com); Cosmedix Emulsion Intense Hydrator’s liquid crystal technology gives skin the prettiest sheen ($78, cosmedix.com); and Glow Recipe Pineapple-C Bright Serum packs 22-percent enzyme-rich pineapple juice to resurface lackluster skin ($49, glowrecipe.com)

CHRISTINE: ”Glass skin” is a term that originated in Korea to describe skin so smooth, poreless and glossy, it’s like a pane of glass.

Creating a smooth canvas is difficult if you have dull, rough skin, so gently sloughing off dead skin cells that accumulate over time is key. I tend to avoid abrasive exfoliators that can potentially irritate the skin or cause micro tears so I use a daily cleanser with a blend of hydrating ingredients and an optimal level of AHAs to gently retexturize and smooth the skin. I also massage my cleanser into my skin with my fingertips for at least a full minute—we find that many women and men don’t cleanse long enough to truly remove debris and makeup.

SARAH: After cleansing, I like to plump up my skin with a bouncy, hydrating toner via our “7 Skin Method,” then follow with a multitasking serum that has a blend of lactic acid for gentle exfoliation, and hydrating and soothing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and chamomile.

Another must have in a glass skin routine is broad-spectrum SPF. CHRISTINE: Seshin is a full-body treatment you can get at Korean spas, called jjimjilbang—it’s a fun Sunday morning tradition for my mother and me when I’m in Korea.

After you dip in the various hot baths, the therapist uses a neon scrubby mitt, interestingly called an “Italy Towel”—we’re not sure why!—to vigorously scrub your body from neck to toe. It takes some getting used to, as the scrub is fairly robust, but your skin is already softened from the humid bath, so it never feels too abrasive.

Afterwards, your skin is hydrated and nourished with a blend of oils or lotion that is also vigorously rubbed in—it’s a must have for jet-lag! The seshin treatment at the Grand Hyatt Seoul is a wellknown celebrity destination in Korea, as they use a custom blend of oils that seriously smooth skin.

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SMOOTH TALKER Beauty insiders usually have softer-than-average skin (we need to use every square inch to test the latest creams).

However, even in the industry crowd, there are some women renowned for having epically smooth arms and the silkiest hands.

“

I MIX A COCKTAIL OF NEUTROGENA BODY OIL AND NÉCESSAIRE BODY LOTION AND APPLY TWICE A DAY. IT’S SO GOOD. –RUBA ABU-NIMAH, SVP CREATIVE DIRECTOR AT REVLON

“

I ACTUALLY USE A FACIAL MASSAGE LOTION FROM BIOTONE ALL OVER MY BODY. IT’S RANDOM, BUT IT’S THE BEST EVER. –SHANI DARDEN, AESTHETICIAN AND FOUNDER OF SHANI DARDEN SKIN CARE

“

I DON’T WASH MY EXTREMITIES EVERY DAY— MANY DERMS HAVE TOLD ME THAT DOING SO IS UNNECESSARY AND CAN DRY OUT THE SKIN. I ONLY WASH THEM TWICE A WEEK— I HONESTLY THINK THAT’S THE KEY. –NEW YORK TIMES BEAUTY WRITER CRYSTAL MARTIN

NEWBEAUTY

BODY LANGUAGE HAIR APPARENT

The best way to get rid of hair? Laser-hair removal, of course! “It’s permanent,” says Dr. Malinski, making it a no-brainer for a longterm fuzz-free future. That said, swimsuit models have long taken advantage of the exfoliating benefits of shaving and waxing— both modalities remove the top layers of dead skin—to achieve peak smooth skin pre-shoot.

“Sensitive-skin models used to shave the night before a shoot. A close shave would remove fuzz, as well as leave skin so smooth that it was almost shiny. Waxing could potentially cause a reaction,” remembers one fashion stylist who would help models prep for swimsuit shoots.

“Models with less-reactive skin would wax a few days before and gently exfoliate the day of.”

Dr. Chaplik prefers waxing to shaving: “The hairs that regrow will mostly be the same length and in the same phase. Shaving will often miss a hair in the area or miss a hair that has yet to present itself to the surface. Baby hairs will also pop up faster than hairs that were shaved off that are longer to begin with.”

TAKE THE PLUNGE

A trip to the spa often comes with hot-cold pool plunges, but which temperature is best for slick skin reminiscent of an Olympic gold swimmer? “Cold water vasoconstricts surface capillaries in the skin to reduce redness, and is good for reducing lipid loss from hot water.

It also revs up the metabolic rate,” says Dr. n e w b e a u t y.c o m

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Lupo, who says stick to warm water to get your body back to normal temps, but that the traditional spa hot-cold plunge is overhyped as a full-body fix. “The hot-to-cold dips and back and forth really have no added benefit.”

“Trips to the beach often result in smoother skin, too,” says Dr. Malinski,” due to the benefits of saltwater and gentle exfoliation from sand.”

SMOOTH SAILING

We like to view cellulite like we view the hair on our legs: everyone has it, it’s no big deal, but, if it bothers you, there are many great options to minimize it. Most doctors agree that subcision—releasing the fibers that create dimples—is key: “Cellfina and Cellulaze help break the fibrous bands that tack down the dimples in cellulite in a minimally invasive way. Expect up to a couple days to two weeks of downtime. Releasing these bands will give a noticeably smoother improvement,” says Brea, CA dermatologist Kimberly Jerdan, MD. Dr. Elias has found that combination therapy works best to treat both wavy and dimpled cellulite. His perfect mix? “Subcision with a device like Cellfina, followed by injections of hyperdiluted biostimulators like Sculptra Aesthetic with radial shockwave therapy like ZWave yields the best results.”

Other combos, Dr. Elias suggests, “Profound radio-frequency microneedling treatments and hyperdiluted injections of Radiesse, a long-lasting collagen-stimulating filler.”

Small tweaks can make a big difference. But the best differences are the ones no one else notices. —PLASTIC SURGEON MARK JEWELL, MD Eugene, OR

THE

WELCOME TO THE CLINIC:

A comprehensive guide to the most advanced aesthetic procedures and the top doctors who perform them.

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“We may have failed patients by discounting their symptoms as exaggerated complaints of the minor aches and pains everyone suffers. However, it would be bad medicine to believe their implants are the cause without scientifically examining that link.”

–Santa Monica plastic surgeon Steven Teitelbaum, MD

THE CLINIC

BREASTS

The Truth About

BREAST IMPLANTS

S

N E W B E A U T Y I N V E S T I GAT E S T H E M O S T D I V I S I V E A N D C O M P L E X S TO R Y I N P L A S T I C S U R G E R Y TO DAY

BY J O L E N E E D GA R

ince Drs. Frank Gerow and Thomas Cronin placed the very first silicone breast implant in 1962, millions of words have been devoted to the device’s safety. And, yet, 57 years later, here we sit, contributing thousands more in an attempt to suss out the potential threat implants may pose.

Back in March, the U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA) called a meeting of the General and Plastic Surgery Devices Panel to investigate the benefits and risks of breast implants. Among the topics explored were two highly publicized health issues: a rare cancer called breast implant–associated anaplastic large cell lymphoma (BIA-ALCL), and an emerging condition dubbed “breast implant illness” or “BII,” which is marked by a myriad of symptoms—brain fog, memory loss, joint pain, headache, fatigue, fever, anxiety, hair loss, rashes—but not formally recognized as a legitimate disease. The proceedings also gave us a window into the emotions fueling the controversy—the growing animosity between women claiming to have been harmed by their implants, and the surgeons and manufacturers who insist the devices are generally safe, if not entirely without risk.

WHAT EVIDENCE EXISTS SUPPORTING THE SAFETY OF BREAST IMPLANTS?

 Before we delve into the published, peerreviewed studies, a quick history lesson: There are individual case reports linking silicone gel implants to systemic disease dating back to the 1960s, a time when implants were largely unregulated. Interestingly, the FDA wasn’t granted authority over medical devices until 1976, at which point, they “grandfathered” previously approved devices. They didn’t demand data on breast implant safety and efficacy until 1988. Come ’92, when manufacturers failed to produce sufficient proof, the FDA placed silicone implants on moratorium, allowing them to be used only for breast reconstruction following cancer treatment. Saline

“We’re tired of doctors looking at us like we’re crazy,” says Jamee Cook, cofounder of Breast Implant Victim Advocacy, and a breast augmentation patient herself, who developed a number of maladies following her surgery in 1998. “While I don’t believe every woman with implants is [negatively] affected, I know it’s devastating for those who are.” Cook had her saline implants removed in 2015 and says most of her symptoms “went away immediately.”

While the doctors who spoke at the hearing focused primarily on scientific data, some later shared personal sentiments. Seattle plastic surgeon Lisa Sowder, MD confided, “It grates me when my experience and education are dismissed by folks who have not spent a day in medical school.” Santa Monica plastic surgeon Steven Teitelbaum, MD wrote, “There’s this horrid implication by some activists that plastic surgeons are so avaricious, they are ignoring ‘the truth.’ Hogwash. I am a physician, and I would not do anything I believed to be harmful. It’s insulting—and patently false—to suggest that all the plastic surgeons in the world would be so biased and conceal the truth.”

Beyond tumultuous, the state of breast implant safety is always evolving. Here’s everything we know right now.

implants remained on the market.

Now, hearing this, one might jump to the conclusion that silicone implants were banned because they were shown to be harmful. But, in truth, they were pulled from the market due to an absence of reliable evidence. “The manufacturers had simply never conducted long-term high-quality studies,” says St. Louis plastic surgeon Patricia McGuire, MD. The first investigation aiming to determine whether certain diseases occur more in women with implants than in those without came about in 1994. Led not by a plastic surgeon, but an esteemed rheumatologist Sherine Gabriel, MD, and published in the New England Journal of Medicine, the study looked for evidence of 12 types of connective-tissue disease, plus three other illnesses, and found “no statistically significant elevation in the relative risk of any of the specified connective-tissue diseases or n e w b e a u t y.c o m

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other disorders among the women with breast implants as compared to the control subjects.”

Papers echoing these findings punctuated medical journals throughout the ’90s, including a landmark report compiled by the Institute of Medicine of the National Academy of Sciences, which stated: “The committee finds no convincing evidence for atypical connective tissue or rheumatic disease or a novel constellation of signs and symptoms in women with silicone breast implants.” The FDA reintroduced silicone implants in 2006 with a condition: manufacturers must continue to monitor their safety by enrolling large numbers of patients in long-term studies.

In the years since the moratorium, 10-year outcome studies have repeatedly shown 95 to 98 percent satisfaction rates among breast augmentation patients. (In fairness, there were also studies cut short and criticized for

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inadequate enrollment and/or follow-up.) And the devices have evolved to include greater safeguards, like more cohesive gels and a barrier coat atop shells intended to thwart seepage, notes Eugene, OR plastic surgeon Mark Jewell, MD.

DO ANY STUDIES SHOW A LINK BETWEEN IMPLANTS AND DISEASE?

 Yes. Last fall, researchers at the University of Texas MD Anderson Cancer Center combined data from two manufacturers’ post-approval studies, intending to compare incidence rates of “certain rare harms” in breast implant patients to those of the general public. They found silicone implants to be associated with higher rates of Sjögren’s syndrome, stillbirth, scleroderma, rheumatoid arthritis and melanoma. The paper was widely discredited by plastic surgeons for its flawed methodology (merging conflicting data from separate studies with distinct reporting mechanisms), poor follow-up rates (subpar participation), and inclusion of self-reported complaints from patients (versus physician-verified diagnoses).

Based on these shortcomings, “the report’s conclusions should be viewed with caution,” warned Binita S. Ashar, MD, director of the Division of Surgical Devices in the FDA’s Center for Devices and Radiological Health.

Also last year, an Israeli study linked implants to autoimmune and rheumatic disorders like Sjögren’s, systemic sclerosis and sarcoidosis.

Some plastic surgeons question its credibility, citing the senior author’s known bias and reputed agenda, and the fact that researchers “could not ascertain whether these diseases occurred before or after the implants were placed, and did not verify diagnoses or establish the total number of patients with implants, thereby creating an artificially high rate,” notes Dr. Teitelbaum.

WHAT ARE THE MAIN SAFETY CONCERNS?

 BIA-ALCL, for one: This is a clearly defined cancer of immune cells (not breast tissue) that can develop in the scar tissue (aka capsule) surrounding silicone and saline implants with textured shells. “There are no confirmed cases in women who were exposed only to smooth implants,” says Dr. Sowder. (Textured implants are manufactured to have a rough outer shell to better grip the breast tissue and stay in place.

All teardrop-shaped, or “anatomic,” implants are textured.) “BIA-ALCL has been on plastic surgeons’ radars for about 10 years now,” adds Dr. Sowder.

BII is newer and more nebulous. While not an official medical diagnosis, as there are no tests to prove or disprove its existence, it’s typically described as a constellation of systemic symptoms that some women attribute to their implants (be they saline, silicone, smooth or textured). “These women have real symptoms, but no one can figure out what’s wrong with them, because their labs, X-rays and exams

tend to be normal,” explains Dr. McGuire.

With little to no data to explain patients’ maladies, plastic surgeons are struggling for answers. “It’s difficult because these are very subjective symptoms we can’t objectively measure, but they make people feel lousy,” says Nashville, TN plastic surgeon Melinda Haws, MD, who chairs the newly created BII task force for the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS). “In the ’90s, vague symptoms were investigated only as they related to established connective-tissue disorders, not as separate entities. But this, whatever this is, we haven’t looked at before.”

WHAT CAUSES BIA-ALCL?

 Doctors theorize that four factors contribute to the development of BIA-ALCL: textured implants, chronic inflammation incited by bacteria, genetic predisposition, and time (it typically takes about eight years for the disease to manifest). “Current data supports the significant role bacteria play in BIA-ALCL,” says Dallas plastic surgeon William P. Adams, Jr., MD. “Bacteria continue to evolve in medicine—strains that weren’t causing problems 20 years ago have grown more virulent.”

What’s more, he adds, “studies show there are exponentially higher numbers of bacteria on textured implants compared to smooth, and many more bacteria on heavily textured implants because of their high surface area and roughness.” This is a crucial distinction: Textured implants vary in granularity. Those

Q /A

WHAT SHOULD PEOPLE KNOW ABOUT IMPLANTS?

New York plastic surgeon Daniel Maman, MD

1/ “A common misconception is that implants only last 10 years, but this is absolutely not true.

We know that the spontaneous implant failure rate—which is very low—increases after 10 years. However, with the current generation of gel implants, we expect them to last much longer than that. Whether it’s 20 or 30 years, we don’t know. But, when I see a 35-year-old patient, I tell her with 100-percent certainty that she will require at least one other operation in her lifetime.”

Houston plastic surgeon Michael Ciaravino, MD

2/ “Bigger is NOT always better.

Breast implants that are too large and heavy may cause the skin to stretch, leading to droopy breasts, asymmetry or other issues. Fortunately, today’s breast implants are available in a variety of dimensions, profiles and levels of firmness. It is now possible for plastic surgeons to create very full, beautiful breasts with implants that are well-suited for their patient’s anatomy.”

San Francisco plastic surgeon Anne Peled, MD

3/ “The vast majority of women who have breast implants do really well with them and are very happy to have them for breast augmentation or reconstruction.

An open discussion with a boardcertified plastic surgeon about options can help women make the best and safest choice for them.”

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329,914 patients received breast implants last year

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with a more aggressive “macrotexture” provide a better breeding ground for bacteria. Over time, the bugs form a biofilm, sparking chronic inflammation that ultimately gives rise to this T-cell lymphoma.

WHAT IS THE RISK OF DEVELOPING BIA-ALCL?

 According to the FDA, BIA-ALCL occurs in between 1 and 3,817 and 1 in 30,000 women. To offer a more accurate assessment, Australian researchers calculated the risk specific to different types of textured implants and reported a 1 in 82,000 risk with “microtexture” implants (think fewer peaks and valleys) and a 1 in 3,200 risk with “macrotexture.” (Perspective: 1 in 8 American women will develop breast cancer.) To date, there have been 427 documented cases and 19 deaths worldwide, most resulting from delayed diagnoses and improper treatment in the years before doctors understood the disease. “Today, we’re able to diagnose it much earlier, and death rates are improving,” says Dr. Teitelbaum.

WHAT ARE THE SIGNS OF BIA-ALCL?

 The first symptom is usually swelling of the breast over days or weeks due to a collection of fluid around the implant. The disease can also present as a lump in the breast or armpit, sudden firmness of the breast, or pain. If you notice any change in your breasts, see your plastic surgeon right away, so she or he can do an ultrasound or MRI, drain any fluid, and test it for CD30, a key marker for activated T-cells.

New York plastic surgeon Scott Newman, MD

4/ “I wish people understood that the decisions they make regarding implant selection and procedure choices not only affect how they’ll look in a month, but also how they will age. People often make decisions without considering the long-term effects of aging. The truth is that larger breasts often age faster. It’s my job to make my patients happy, but it’s more gratifying when they remain happy!”

HOW DO DOCTORS TREAT BIA-ALCL?

 Eighty-five percent of patients can be cured by removing the implants and surrounding capsules, while 15 percent require surgery plus chemotherapy and/or radiation to target malignant cells that have spread to the lymph nodes or adjacent tissues. While rare and highly treatable when caught early, “it is 100 percent a cancer in those who have it,” notes Chicago plastic surgeon Laurie Casas, MD.

IF TEXTURED IMPLANTS FUEL BIA-ALCL, WHY USE THEM?

 As BIA-ALCL numbers have climbed, many plastic surgeons have abandoned textured implants. Dr. McGuire quit using them three years ago after several colleagues’ patients developed the disease. “This is an elective surgery, and to me, the risk of cancer is just not worth it,” she says. Still, she acknowledges the benefits of textured implants. Referring to the macrotexture type, she says, “When those cases went well, they were the best I ever had: They gave a very natural-looking result—the breasts were soft and stayed in position.”

Dr. McGuire, like most of her peers, believes textured implants—smooth ones, too, for that matter—should be used only by boardcertified plastic surgeons (who are trained to curtail risk), and that a patient’s anatomy should absolutely dictate a need for textured (correcting asymmetries or congenital abnormalities, like constricted lower poles, for instance). Currently, only one major implant manufacturer restricts sales to board-certified plastic surgeons, and this same company has the lowest rate of BIA-ALCL.

Chicago plastic surgeon Irvin M. Wiesman, MD

5/ “For those who have had silicone breast augmentation, it’s important to know that the FDA is considering updating its surveillance guidelines [for tests like MRIs conducted postsurgery] to include lower-cost alternatives, like high-resolution ultrasound, and to possibly space out screenings, as rupture rates for new-generation cohesive gel implants are relatively low, around 1 percent per year.”

“Textured implants are safe provided the requisite steps are taken to minimize bacterial contamination of the implant,” says Dr. Jewell.

These 14 aseptic steps are validated in a 2017 study conducted by Drs. Adams and Jewell, along with six other global plastic surgeons, who pooled data on 21,650 patients implanted with 42,035 macrotextured implants. In every operation, surgeons adhered to the 14-point plan. Patients were followed for an average of 11.5 years post-op. The expected number of BIA-ALCL cases, based on current risk for this particular implant, was 14. The actual number of BIA-ALCL cases reported was zero. “That’s very strong evidence of a relationship between high-level surgical technique and a reduced risk of BIA-ALCL,” says Dr. Adams.

The very same implants used in this study were recently banned by regulatory bodies in Canada and France. Some patients are urging the FDA to follow suit. Meanwhile, talk of outlawing textured implants—and effectively robbing women of their right to choose— has spurred an outcry among female plastic surgeons who have implants themselves.

“Yes, breast implants come with their own set of risks, as does every surgery,” says Dr. Haws.

“Given all of the facts, women are smart enough to decide for themselves whether the risk is worth the benefit.”

BACK TO BII: WHAT SHOULD PATIENTS DO IF THEY’RE EXPERIENCING SYMPTOMS?

 Don’t panic: As Dr. Haws points out, they are the same types of symptoms that can come from medication changes, aging or shifting hormones. Still, in the last few years, BII support groups have sprouted across social

Chicago plastic surgeon Michael Horn, MD

6/ “The risk of developing implant-associated lymphoma is low and has been associated with textured implants. It is very treatable. In my review of the statistics, I believe a woman with textured implants has a greater chance of getting into a fatal car accident than developing this disease. Breast implants are still extremely safe, and I perform the procedure at my practice with the highest satisfaction.”

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media, accruing thousands of members with similar ailments and stories. Your first stop should be your plastic surgeon, who will examine you, order a medical work-up and refer you to a rheumatologist if indicated.

Implant removal is always an option—your body, your choice—but it’s not a surefire fix.

WHAT SHOULDN’T WOMEN DO IF THEY SUSPECT BII?

 Succumb to Dr. Google. There’s a rampant myth being perpetuated online that the only viable “cure” for BII is an en bloc capsulectomy, which is a means of removing implants and their capsules as single, intact units (presumably to prevent “contaminants” from spilling out or being left behind). “It can be somewhat dangerous in terms of trying to get the capsule off of the chest wall, especially if implants are behind the muscle and the capsule is on the ribs,” explains Dr. Jewell. The procedure offers limited visibility, typically requires an eight to 11–centimeter incision, and risks damaging neighboring muscles, ribs, and even lungs.

And according to Dr. Adams, “there has never been a study or research presented or published showing any benefit to an en bloc capsulectomy.” What’s more, it’s simply not an option for everyone: “It works best on tight, hard capsules [which make for a cleaner dissection],” says Dr. Haws. “When scar tissue is soft and wispy, I can’t always guarantee an en bloc—but the second I say this to a BII patient, the conversation stops, and she no longer trusts me.” For thin, normal-appearing capsules, prudent surgeons prefer to do a precise capsulectomy, carefully removing as much capsule as possible with the implant still inside, and then making a tiny slit in the capsule through which to deliver the implant, before resecting remaining scar tissue—all with minimal scarring and danger.

FABRICE LEROUGE/GETTY IMAGES

DO BII PATIENTS GET BETTER AFTER THEIR IMPLANTS ARE REMOVED?

 Some do, yes. But right now, doctors can’t predict which women, or even which symptoms, will improve with explantation. Here’s what they do know: In a Canadian study of patients who explanted during the ’90s moratorium, those with a diagnosed autoimmune disease did not recover following surgery. Among “patients who had normal labs and no estab-

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Organizations like ASAPS and its research arm, ASERF have developed sophisticated data collection software and are funding research grants to help provide more valid scientific information, as well as a patient mobile app for women with implants.

lished disease, and believed they would get better, 80 percent improved after implant removal,” explains Dr. McGuire. What’s behind this? Some say a placebo effect. Others surmise that taking the weight off a patient’s chest— both literally and figuratively—can provide a sort of emotional and physical relief. For certain women, adds Dr. Sowder, removing implant capsules may also eliminate the source of chronic inflammation that’s been causing them to feel sick. “No matter the reason,” says Dr. Teitelbaum, “some women do improve, and that’s what’s most important.”

established rheumatologic and autoimmune diseases, particularly those with a family history, to very carefully consider the decision to get implants, because as Dr. McGuire notes, “there may be a small percentage of women whose bodies, for whatever reason, just don’t like any type of foreign material.” Some surgeons, like Dr. Casas, occasionally ask patients with red flags in their medical history to undergo genetic testing for something called the MTHFR mutation, which could potentially signal “a propensity for having an abnormal inflammatory response,” she says.

IS THERE A WAY TO PREDICT WHO WILL DEVELOP SYMPTOMS?

WHAT CHANGES DO PATIENTS HOPE TO SEE?

 Not at this time. “We still have to sort out what it is that might make someone not a candidate for breast implants,” says Dr. Casas. “Hopefully new studies will reveal whether there’s a predisposition here.” In the absence of such evidence, doctors are urging women with n e w b e a u t y.c o m

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 Transparency above all: a checklist of potential adverse events, both known and unknown; complete ingredient decks for breast implants; and greater collaboration between patients, plastic surgery organizations and the FDA. “It’s vital that we work together,” says Cook.

“This gives us hope that we’re being heard.”

GUTTER CREDIT

THE CLINIC

SKIN

SUN SAFE M O R E P E O P L E D E V E L O P S K I N C A N C E R F R O M TA N N I N G T H A N LU N G CA N C E R F RO M S M O K I N G, B U T M OST P EO P L E S T I L L N E G L E C T T O A P P LY S U N S C R E E N . H E R E , S TAT S , T I P S A N D SU G G E ST I O N S TO K E E P YO U A N D YO U R LOV E D O N E S SA F E

B

BY ELIZABETH RITTER

rittany Arthur tries not to be “the crazy person who scolds people about their sunscreen use.”

But the 35-year-old can’t help it.

“I was 27 when I was diagnosed with melanoma. I was always the one in the sun and the tanning bed—all throughout high school, extra visits before the prom, all during the summer, and then all throughout college. Even the apartments I lived in had free tanning. It was a bonus that one of my friends worked at a tanning salon. She would just let me just drop in whenever and tan.”

Arthur says she stopped her self-described “constant tanning routine” after college, but had admittedly slacked off with her dermatology visits for a few years, even though she had a lot of moles.

“There was one that popped up on my right shin that I hadn’t really noticed before, and it didn’t really look like any of the other ones.

It just really stood out. I knew I had to get it checked out.”

The mole came back as melanoma. “I was referred to a surgical oncologist, and based on the depth it had already reached and the mitotic rate, she thought it would be best to remove it and also do a lymph-node biopsy to make sure that it hadn’t started spreading

MICHAEL DAVID ADAMS/THE LICENSING PROJECT.COM

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anywhere else. It had—they found some microscopic melanoma cells in one of the lymph nodes they had tested, so I had to go back and have a lymph-node dissection of my right groin. The doctors ended up removing about half of those, which—thank goodness—all came back as clear.”

“It was a lot, and it still is,” Arthur admits, eight years after her diagnosis. “I didn’t do any chemo or radiation because of my age, but I had to—and still have to—play what I call a very serious ‘watching game.’ I ended up doing CT scans of my chest, abdomen and pelvis for the next five years, and they always came back clean, which was great.”

Now, Arthur says, she’s in a bit of a holding pattern. “I see the oncologist once a year, and my dermatologist every six months—I see one in December and the other in July, so every six months, I’m seeing one of them. This year, they want me to do a chest X-ray just to make sure we’re still in the clear.”

“My friends and family all know my story. My family doesn’t tan anymore, but I have a couple of friends who still do. I always give them the eye! Now, I apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen every day and I have an 18-month-old who has it on all the time, too. I’ve learned my lesson; I’m not taking any chances.”

S K I N C A N C E R S TAT S

30%

Americans will develop skin cancer in their lifetime.

Only 30 percent of American women (and a shockingly low 15 percent of men) use sunscreen regularly.

SOURCE: AAD

SOURCE: SKIN CANCER FOUNDATION

192,310 n e w b e a u t y.c o m

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Americans die from melanoma every day.

SOURCE: AAD

The estimated amount of new cases of melanoma that will be diagnosed in the U.S.—almost 8 percent more than in 2018.

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SKIN

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COLOR BLIND Skin cancer affects every skin tone, and early detection is essential: A study published in JAAD found skin cancer to be more deadly in people of color, due to delays in diagnosis.

SKIN CANCER 2.0

EARLY DETECTION

Dr. Henry says she’s also seen an uptick in the use of one device in particular: “Recently, the use of dermatoscopes has become more common. There is also a new device called Nevisense that is designed to detect malignant melanoma. It can detect the relative risk of a mole in the office in few minutes—potentially

helping doctors diagnose melanoma early before the classic clinical features arise.”

Studio City, CA dermatologist Gene Rubinstein, MD is also partial to dermatoscopes, mainly because they allow for better identification of skin cancers, and differentiating them from benign conditions. “There’s also a new device called the DermoScan, which we use for full-body mole mapping.

It allows uniform, standardized pictures to be taken of the entire body, and the ability to compare pictures taken at different times.

The software allows us to see which moles are changing, and this is extremely helpful to us. On patients with multiple moles, it allows us to flag the changing moles, and view them side by side on the monitor in order to decide if a mole needs further examination.”

Another addition to the field is VivaScope, a newly FDA-approved imaging device that allows doctors to obtain “virtual biopsies” of the skin, with microscopic detail, and without cutting. “This device only takes a few minutes to acquire images, allows for instant diagnosis and is pain-free,” says Dr. Rubinstein. “The future of skin diagnosis is definitely noninvasive.” n e w b e a u t y.c o m

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Tips for Early Detection 1. Get a yearly skin exam from a

dermatologist or dermatology PA. Skin exams are quick and easy, and early detection of melanoma can save lives.

2. Family history of skin cancer

and/or a history of severe sun exposure or tanning beds should prompt a skin exam; in some cases, it warrants more frequent skin exams.

3. Be cautious of multiple

irregularly shaped moles.

4. Two general types of skin

cancer exist: melanoma and non-melanoma. Melanomas often arise in moles, so a change in the shape and size of a mole is a clue to get checked.

ALEKSANDARNAKIC/GETTY IMAGES

While Arthur’s story is scary, it’s not all that surprising: Skin cancer is the most common cancer in the U.S. and—as New York dermatologist Michelle Henry, MD stresses—it doesn’t discriminate.

“There is still a misconception that skin cancer only affects older, fair-skinned individuals. I see it in patients in their early 20s. I also see it in patients with very dark skin. Although it is somewhat rarer in those populations, the outcomes can be worse because of delays in diagnosis.”

Besides the religious use of sunscreen, Dr. Henry recommends what she refers to as “regular structured surveillance,” including monthly skin self-checks at home (about half of melanomas are self-detected) and annual full-body skin checks with a derm.

THE CLINIC

SKIN

THE LOOK BOOK Y E S, W E AG R E E : M O L E S A R E N ’ T T H E LOV E L I E ST T H I N GS, B U T K N OW I N G W H AT TO LO O K FO R C O U L D SAV E A L I F E .

THINGS THAT GO BUMP

MELANOMA EXAMPLE

According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, it can be hard to tell the difference between an a typical mole and an early melanoma, but if you aren’t sure, get it checked.

WAVY WAY

CIRCULAR MOTION

GUTTER CREDIT PROVIDED

BY THE SKIN CANCER FOUNDATION

SHADE CHECK

Moles with a variety of colors can be a warning sign. A number of shades of brown, tan or black could appear and melanoma may become red, white or blue.

ERASER HEAD

This is an example of a benign mole. As a general rule, benign moles usually have a smaller diameter than malignant ones.

Dr. Rubinstein is based in California where it’s almost always a nice day, but he says it’s this kind of sun-focused thinking that can get people into trouble.

Benign moles equal noncancerous moles, but anyone who has atypical moles is at an increased risk of developing melanoma.

Most benign moles are all one color (often a single shade of brown). A benign mole also typically has smooth, even borders, unlike melanomas.

MEASURING STICK

WHAT A DERM WISHES HIS PATIENTS KNEW

BENIGN SIGN

Asymmetry is a warning sign of melanoma. If you draw a line through the above mole, the two halves will not match.

This is an example of a malignant mole. The borders of an early melanoma tend to be uneven and the edges may even become scalloped or notched.

D O C TO R ’S O R D E R S

EVOLVE + CHANGE

Melanomas are usually larger in diameter than the eraser on your pencil tip, but they may sometimes be smaller when first detected.

Any change in a mole—in size, shape, color, elevation, etc.— or any new symptom, such as bleeding, itching or crusting, can point to a problem.

“So many patients think you can only get skin cancer by laying out in the sun,” he says. “That is not true, because cumulative sun exposure often leads to skin cancer, and not just periods of intense exposure, as happens on vacation.

It’s the daily, small doses of UV exposure that add up, including that received in the car while driving. In the U.S., the majority of skin cancers seen on the face, for example, happen on the left side, due to increased UV exposure from the driver’s-side window.”

Dr. Rubinstein also sees many patients who think that if they have skin that tans easily, their chances of getting skin cancer are lower. “Many people of Mediterranean origin believe they are less likely to get skin cancer than those with lighter skin. This belief sometimes leads them to seek more sun, and therefore increase their risk of skin cancer.” Another misconception?

“A base tan won’t decrease the chances of burns or prevent skin cancer. Any UV exposure causing a tan is by definition sun damage, and will increase skin cancer risk.”

The ABCDE’s of Melanoma: A

Asymmetry: Different on one side than the other

B

Border: Unusual borders that aren’t smooth

C

D

Color: Different colors or dark colors in a mole N E W B E A U T Y.C O M

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Diameter: Greater than an eraser on a pencil

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Evolution: A new or changing mole

Be wary of a new spot that grows over time, bleeds and does not heal. Non-melanoma skin cancers can look like pimples or crusty spots.

THE CLINIC

SKIN

THE FUTURE OF SKIN CANCER TREATMENT INVISIBLE SOLUTIONS

New York dermatologist Dendy Engelman, MD, and many other doctors, are particularly sensitive to fears that skin cancer treatments will cause permanent defects.

“Doctors who perform reconstruction on those who have had skin cancer are now utilizing multiple modalities to ensure the best aesthetic and skin health outcome—it doesn’t have to be scary. This means coupling laser therapies with topical treatments for the scar and surrounding skin in order to eliminate perceptible scarring and minimize the risk of other skin cancers erupting in these regions. Pulsed-dye laser, IPL, PDT, and fractionated CO2 are all used to assist in the aesthetic result.”

“Patients are always amazed at how great they look one week post-surgery,” adds Dr. Engelman. “They will often like the side of their face that was treated better than the untreated side!” Boston facial plastic surgeon Jaimie DeRosa, MD agrees. “Most patients are surprised to find out that, in the right hands, skin cancer reconstruction can result in a nearly imperceptible scar or deformity.”

THE RIGHT TREATMENT

Because there are several types of cancers, Dr. Broumand says patients need to know what kind of skin cancer they are dealing with

and ensure they are going to the right doctor to get the correct procedure to remove it.

“People are always surprised that plastic surgeons do skin cancer reconstruction, even though we have a clear understanding of how to make the wounds heal better over time.”

Likewise, Dr. DeRosa isn’t a dermatologist, but she does do her fair share of skin cancer reconstruction and she’s particularly excited about two innovations: “3-D printing and tissue engineering technologies. Three-dimensional printing has been shown to aid in improving symmetry and results when repairing defects in difficult areas, such as on the face. Then there is tissue engineering, which has produced several dermal matrix materials to enhance the outcomes in the repair of large cutaneous defects,” she says. “I am excited to see the continued collaboration between science and biomedical engineering and technology.

Colleagues are working hard to create viable organs, such entire ears via tissue engineering, which will open more options for repairing defects after skin cancer removal.”

TOPICAL OPTIONS

The bottom line, Dr. Rubinstein says, is that there is much more flexibility now in the treatment of skin cancers. “Mohs surgery is still the gold standard for areas such as the face, or large non-melanoma skin cancers, but there are topical agents, or creams, that can be used for the treatment of pre-cancers or thin non-melanoma skin cancers,” he says. “We also perform a procedure called photodynamic therapy (PDT), which can quickly eliminate pre-cancerous growths by using a topical solution on an area of skin, and then exposing the area to blue LED light.”

PASHAMBA/GETTY IMAGES

While New York plastic surgeon Stafford Broumand, MD is wary of calling attention to anything “new” regarding skin cancer treatment, he has seen a recent shift in the field.

“The ‘new’ isn’t so important—what’s important is that more people are getting checked and then getting the skin cancer removed.”

3-D printing and tissue engineering technology can help repair defects.

THE CLINIC

SKIN

+

The brilliant #mommymimic campaign, launched by Neutrogena, encourages moms to apply sunscreens in front of their kids. It’s worked for our team: here, our editor-in-chief’s three-yearold with his well-loved and well-used Primera Baby Sun Cushion SPF 32 PA++.

D O C TO R ’S O R D E R S

SUN SAFETY TIPS The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD)’s official stance is protection, protection, protection: “Because exposure to UV light is the most preventable risk factor for all skin cancers, the AAD encourages everyone to stay out of indoor tanning beds and protect their skin from the sun’s harmful UV rays by seeking shade, wearing protective clothing and using a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher.”

In 1981, Australia launched the “Slip, Slop, Slap” campaign with Sid the Seagull (a sun-safety version of Smokey the Bear). Sid recently added “Seek” and “Slide” to his rules: slip on sun-protective clothing; slap on a hat; slop on sunscreen; seek shade and slide on sunglasses.

Richland, WA dermatologist Sidney B. Smith, MD loves the newer FDA sunscreen proposals, but holds patients to “an even higher standard” that Sid the Seagull would approve. “One, avoid peak hours of sun exposure whenever possible. Two, wear sun-protective clothing. Three, apply and reapply sunscreen,” says Dr. Smith. “Sunscreen needs to be SPF 30 or higher and contain zinc and/or titanium dioxide for happy, healthy skin.” n e w b e a u t y.c o m

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COFFEEANDMILK/GETTY IMAGES

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The most important step of the procedure, according to La Jolla, CA plastic surgeon Robert Singer, MD: individualizing it to the anatomical needs of the patient.

THE CLINIC

FACELIFT

FACE FORWARD

I

T H E G O L D - S TA N DA R D, T I M E - R E V E R S A L S U R G E R Y GETS READY FOR ITS SECOND ACT

f you’ve spent any time researching facelifts, you may already have a sense of how nuanced the subject can be. There seem to be countless versions of the procedure, each with its own mysterious name or acronym, and all claiming to give the most natural result. So, what’s the real deal?

Allow us to Marie Kondo it for you….

A masterfully executed facelift will resuspend fallen tissues and remove lax skin to boost the cheeks, downplay the jowls, and smooth the neck. But even this—the ace of anti-aging procedures—can’t erase every trace of time.

Over the years, as plastic surgeons have shifted from simply tightening the face to more wholly restoring its shape—by both “repositioning the soft tissues through deep-layer techniques and adding volume using fat grafting”—they’ve allowed us to recapture a more youthful look while avoiding the distortions associated with facelifts past, notes Miami plastic surgeon James Stuzin, MD.

THOSE BUZZY TERMS, THOUGH?

“Most are marketing attempts to make surgery feel more accessible and less scary,” says New York plastic surgeon Lara Devgan, MD. Take the so-called mini-lift: “Plastic surgeons still don’t know what a mini-lift is,” jokes New York plastic surgeon Sherrell Aston, MD, who credits magazines with inventing the moniker.

The implication is that “we’re limiting the extent of incisions, but we’re still doing all of the same underlying foundation work— manipulating the muscle layer, not merely tugging and tailoring the skin.”

Unlike dresses, facelifts can’t be neatly categorized into mini, midi and maxi. “It’s more a matter of looking at the patient and letting their face tell you what to do,” Corona Del Mar, CA plastic surgeon Val Lambros, MD

BY J O L E N E E D GA R

says. Surgeons can perform limited or modified lifts to spot-treat sagging—targeting the temporal area, for instance, or hoisting the neck alone—but pros say it’s not really the norm, especially for first-time facelift seekers.

“In most patients who have laxity in the face, the neck also needs to be addressed,” says La Jolla, CA plastic surgeon Robert Singer, MD. The reverse is also true. However, if one’s judicious use of injectables and devices has stalled aging in the face more obviously than the neck—a growing phenomenon in some parts of the country— surgeons can perform an isolated necklift, oftentimes by making a small incision under the chin through which to remove fat and tighten the platysma muscle. Still, notes Dr. Lambros, “I find you get a better neck when you’re also doing the face because you’re pulling the skin a little bit more vertically. Without that extra pull, the necklift becomes less effective.” When focusing on a part rather than the whole, it’s important to realize that limiting work to a specific zone can result in an unbalanced appearance, with certain aspects looking older than others.

Ultimately, the best plastic surgeons will dispense with trademarked terms and customize the procedure to suit you, as your unique anatomy and signs of aging will determine the amount of work that needs to be done. Equally critical: “Procedures and outcomes must be contemporary and ageappropriate,” says Dr. Singer. “The last thing anyone wants is that windblown look of an old facelift.”

“ In most patients who have laxity in the face, the neck also needs to be addressed.”

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T H E B R E A K D OW N

FACELIFT FACTS 101

AVERAGE TREATMENT COST: $7,500–$18,000 DOWNTIME: About two weeks PROCEDURE TIME: Two to four hours (almost always outpatient) ANESTHESIA: Typically local with IV sedation, but some surgeons and patients prefer to use general PAIN RATING: About a 3 (on scale of 1–10) PRE-OP TIP: For at least two weeks before surgery, you’ll need to avoid blood-thinners, such as alcohol, aspirin and ibuprofen, anti-inflammatories, fish oil, vitamin E, and herbal supplements, like ginkgo biloba and willow bark, to minimize your risk of bleeding and bruising. (Be sure to disclose all medications you may be taking—both over-the-counter and prescribed.) Your physician may also recommend certain vitamins and homeopathic remedies to take in the weeks before your facelift to help prepare your body for surgery and aid in healing afterwards.

THE CLINIC

FACELIFT

NEWBEAUTY

TOP DOCTOR

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WHEN TO CONSIDER A FACELIFT

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It’s important that procedures and outcomes be contemporary and age-appropriate.

In 2019, the concept of aging gracefully can be exemplified by doing nothing, or absolutely everything, to interfere with aging. Which is to say: There is no universally “right” time to get a facelift. But those in the “absolutely everything” camp might start mulling surgery “when they begin to notice things that aren’t easily correctable with injectables,” says Dr. Devgan. “When it’s not just some horizontal forehead lines anymore—it’s midface descent, jowling and laxity of the neck. Those, to me, are the three stigmata of facial aging that are the most difficult to fix with fillers. And when you see people looking weird and puffy, it’s typically because they’re trying to solve one or more of those problems in a way the technique of injectables is not powered to handle.”

#THISIS40S:

“Many women will experience a rapid phase of facial aging in their late 40s to early 50s; their faces will age more in two to three years than [they have] in the previous 15. The main cause of this is hormonal. In the late 40s, women experience lower levels of estrogen and ultimately become perimenopausal. When this happens, the quality of the skin changes, and within one to three years, the facial muscles loosen dramatically. Cheeks droop, creating folds between the nose and the corner of the mouth (nasolabial folds).

Jowls form on either side of the chin, making...the lower face wider, and marionette lines develop between the corners of the mouth and the chin.”

— NEW YORK FACIAL PLASTIC SURGEON ANDREW JACONO, MD

COFFEEANDMILK/GETTY IMAGES

AGING AT HYPERSPEED? YOU’RE NOT ALONE.

THE CLINIC

FACELIFT

B&As BEFORE

THE RESURRECTION OF THE THREAD LIFT

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Lake Oswego, OR facial plastic surgeon Mark Petroff, MD performed a deep-plane facelift, endoscopic browlift and upper blepharoplasty on this 64-year-old patient to address skin laxity on her cheeks, jowls and neck, as well as excess skin on her upper eyelids.

BEFORE

THE DEBATE OVER EFFICACY

Dr. Few, who is also an investigator and consultant for Silhouette, makes a point of referring to the minimally invasive procedure by its official name—“absorbable suture suspension”—rather than the colloquial “thread lift,” a term he says they’re trying to get away from. Ghostbusting in action.

Silhouette, he believes, is “really something different.” In more than 1,000 cases, he’s never seen an infection; a thread snap or extrude; “or any folding or bunching of the skin that lasted more than overnight and wasn’t truly minor in nature—barely visible.” The fact that Silhouette is completely reabsorbed by the body after nine to 12 months makes it less risky. As the threads dissolve, they stimulate the body to make more of its own collagen for a lift that lasts between two and three years, according to Dr. Few’s most recent data— which, by the way, is something else that distinguishes Silhouette from threads of old: “Where we are now, data speaks,” he says.

“In the past, it was all hype, no studies.”

The greatest danger with these modern

threads, warns Dr. Few, is pushing the envelope. The ideal candidate (usually in her 30s or 40s) has relatively good facial volume and skin quality with mild-tomoderate sagging—“meaning the central part of the face is just beginning to droop, making the eyelids look tired and the cheeks look older, and the jawline is starting to get a bit irregular and form a jowl,” he says. “In those cases, I can get a complete correction that makes surgery temporarily unnecessary. It’s super predictable and there’s little downtime” (a few days of swelling and bruising). For people in their late 50s and 60s, results can be hit-or-miss, and oftentimes “a classic facelift is going to reset the clock in a more dramatic way and last longer,” he notes, rendering patients refreshed for a good 10 years or more.

Surgery may also be a better bet for those whose necks have aged beyond their years.

“The majority of patients who’ve done this once want to do it again, and that’s a strong endorsement,” he says. But not ringing enough to sway every surgeon. “I think it’s a placebo,” says Dr. Lambros. “I don’t think the operation works, and there’s an anatomic reason for that: The face is held onto the bone by lots of tiny ligaments, which in aggregate are very strong, but individually, are quite weak,” he explains. It’s these ligaments that the threads and cones aim to snag and anchor onto. “They’re not catching something with a lot of strength to it, and once you start pursing your lips and smiling, the threads can release from the ligaments.”

Indeed, some thread lift studies show improvements lasting less than six months, but there are many different brands and styles of threads, and not all are created equal. Dr. Few contends his “scientific conclusions [on Silhouette specifically] are supported by extensive research published in multiple peer-reviewed journals.” For best results, find a board-certified dermatologist or plastic surgeon with significant threadlifting experience.

AFTER

As with most reboots, thread lifts are haunted by disappointments past. The early 2000s version—“permanent polypropylene threads with coarse barbs laid in a way that was not physiologically sound,” explains Chicago plastic surgeon Julius Few, MD— was riddled with flaws, from visible bunching that lasted weeks and potential skin perforations years later to asymmetric breaking of the threads and lack of efficacy. “I was practicing when the original threads came out, but I never used them because I felt they were poorly conceived,” says Dr. Few, who is now the country’s top user of the Silhouette InstaLift, a next-gen dissolvable device comprising polyglycolide/l-lactide threads studded with tissue-gripping cones intended to temporarily hoist the midface. (Rival brands like Nova Threads and MINT make similar products from polydioxanone, a safe biocompatible material that’s long been used in Asia).

In addition to a revision rhinoplasty to improve her breathing, this 62-year-old patient underwent a limited-incision facelift and necklift, and liposuction under the chin with Kirkland, WA facial plastic surgeon Daniel J. Liebertz, MD. Postoperative images were taken four months after the procedure.

THE CLINIC

FACELIFT

IS THE BROWLIFT DEAD?

The browlift hasn’t completely gone the way of the dinosaurs, but some surgeons feel it is nearing the brink of extinction. “I came up in the era of everybody doing browlifts—I’ve done thousands myself—but it’s not an operation I enjoy, because most of the time, I don’t like how it looks,” says Dr. Lambros. What commonly happens with both endoscopic browlifts and traditional open browlifts, which are almost never done anymore, he adds, is “the middle of the brow winds up higher than the sides, because of the effect of the squint muscles, and this gives patients a permanently plaintive or anxious kind of look.”

BETTER WAYS TO RAISE

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According to a AAFPRS 2018 survey, 41 percent of patients state a fear of looking unnatural as their top concern when considering cosmetic enhancements.

Still, needles aren’t a unanimous fix. “If the brows are low and the patient can’t get a good result with injectables, then there is a role for a surgical browlift,” explains Dr. Singer. “I choose to look at it as more of a forehead redraping— smoothing it without really lifting or changing the hairline or brow position.” Some patients may also benefit from a creative combo: a light dose of neurotoxin in the mid-forehead and a lateral browlift (with an incision back behind the hairline) to elevate the tails of the brows and keep them from falling and creating laxity.

In looking to the future, Dr. Few adds, “I think there will be a wave of suture technologies that will be better and more effective [than surgery] to lift the brow. We’re still trying to figure out the best way to do that, so we’re not there yet, but it’s an exciting prospect.”

If you’re bothered by an aging forehead, it pays to act early. Because once a slumping brow begins infringing upon the eyes, turning lids heavy or hooded, eyelid surgery (aka blepharoplasty) can become an integral part of the solution.

COFFEEANDMILK/GETTY IMAGES

Dr. Few, who still performs the occasional browlift, also acknowledges the procedure’s waning popularity: “So many people were surgically overelevated, and there was backlash.” People began seeking less-aggressive but still powerful alternatives, like neuromodulators, which in the hands of skilled injectors can tackle many of the same issues, smoothing horizontal creases and deep frown lines while subtly hiking key aspects of the forehead and brows. Of course, toxins, too, can be overdone, notes Dr. Few, creating troubled expressions all their own. In a move against deadened foreheads and Spock brows, “I now treat very few foreheads with Botox,” he says. “I’ve found that if we target the crow’s-feet area, and we treat the 11s between the eyebrows, the brows tend to sit more naturally, and you create a secondary relaxation of the forehead lines without ever injecting the forehead itself.”

(This is somewhat of a new technique, and not every injector will approach the forehead the same way.)

According to Dallas plastic surgeon Rod J. Rohrich, MD, strategically placed micro-fat grafts can sometimes serve as a solid stand-in for surgery. We naturally lose fat in the face with age, and this contributes to brow sagging.

“In many cases, all you need to do is replenish the forehead and temples, and it looks like you’ve had a browlift,” he says.

THE CLINIC

FACELIFT

P O S T- S U R G E RY

THE AFTERMATH From anesthesia options and suturing techniques to overall results, pretty much every facet of the facelift has been enhanced over the years. Still, we can think of few things more nervewracking than awakening from a face-altering surgery. Doctors assure us, however, that the aftermath is more manageable than we might imagine.

THE FUTURE OF FACELIFTING

Who needs tea leaves and crystal balls when you’ve got scientific journals and aesthetics meetings? Here, plastic surgeons share their facelift forecasts for 2019.

BAND AID

“Recently, people have been talking about taking the nerve supply away from the medial platysma, [as] this part of the muscle does nothing except make obnoxious bands in the neck,” says Dr. Lambros. “There’s some very interesting research on ways to selectively clip the nerve responsible without compromising motion. By doing so, we can probably reduce considerably the number of recurrent bands in the neck, which is one of the most common things patients complain about [in the years following facelift surgery]. This is still being studied, and may or may not pan out, but it could be very promising.”

WISE GUISE

“I predict smaller interventions at earlier ages, shorter incisions in more discreet locations, and even more conservative and natural-looking results. The ‘Park Avenue 1990s’ look— surprised, taut, shiny—is definitely over,” says Dr. Devgan. “I also foresee more educated consumers who will be less susceptible to the marketing of confusion—this strange notion that every plastic surgeon has a new and wholly unique method for well-established procedures such as browlift, facelift and necklift. There are a number of variations in surgical techniques, and every procedure is customized to every patient, but eventually savvy patients will realize that what matters most is a surgeon’s training, aesthetic judg-

ment and delicacy of dissection—not the marketing of a new, well-branded term.”

SCAR-FREE

“The use of innovative technology like radiofrequency skin tightening for reshaping the neck and facial skin, and the addition of fat or fillers to the central face, eyelids, and forehead/temple areas—this is the future.

Total facial rejuvenation without any incisions or recovery!” says Dr. Rohrich. “Once we unlock how to safely and reliably tighten skin and remove neck fat nonsurgically—while continuing to fill the face in an artistic manner—the traditional facelift will be history. I truly see this on the horizon; it’ll be here in five years or less.” (Other doctors we spoke to said the time period may be more like 10–15 years.)

SKIN FIX

“In my opinion, the main limitation in facial rejuvenation remains the quality of the soft tissues and the elasticity and texture of photoaged skin, which have a large impact on our ability to control both the shape and longevity of our result,” says Dr. Stuzin. “The future in facelifting may focus on the addition of growth factors and other innovations in regenerative medicine, such that the elasticity of aged soft tissue and skin is improved, allowing us to provide better aesthetic control in facelift techniques. We’re seeing some of these effects now as we combine nanofat grafting with the facelift in patients with sun-damaged skin, as the nanofat contains both growth factors and stem cells. Nonetheless, the development of these types of procedures is only in its infancy.” n e w b e a u t y.c o m

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“I do the majority of facelifts in the accredited surgical suite in my office, and most patients leave with their private-duty nurse two hours after the procedure. Newer anesthesia techniques make it possible for them to wake up feeling good and walk right to the recovery room. The time it takes to get back to work and one’s social life usually isn’t very long.

Many people look good a week or 10 days later—I’ve had people back on camera within two weeks.” —DR. ASTON “Patients generally have a dressing around their head for anywhere from two to five days, depending on the extent of the procedure and the surgeon’s preference. I tell patients I don’t want them exercising, having sex or getting sun exposure for three weeks after surgery.” —DR. SINGER “It’s not uncommon for bruising and swelling to last several weeks.

You want to stay well-hydrated, minimize salty foods and sleep on your back with your head elevated on two pillows. Stitches come out about a week after surgery. After two weeks, most people look and feel good enough to dine out, and by four to six weeks, they’re comfortable going to big events.

Final results—complete healing and scar maturation—typically take a full year.” —DR. DEVGAN

THE CLINIC

Q&A

DOCTORS’

ORDERS From a trending green juice moment to a lesser-known ear procedure, these are the questions our readers are asking.

Q

I’ve read a lot recently about the skin benefits of drinking celery juice but I’m not sure I buy it. Can it really help clear up my skin?

Q

I want to get Botox injections in my jaw area to help ease my TMJ pain, but will they change the shape of my face? 



Celery juice devotees claim 16 ounces a day can clear up troubled skin.

Elmer, NJ Dermatologist Ingrid Warmuth, MD

“Celery is a plant from the apiaceae family, which has phenolic and antioxidant properties. These properties in celery are also found in celery juice. Given the need for antioxidants to protect the skin from free radicals—they significantly contribute to aging—it is suggested that drinking celery juice might be a powerful anti-aging method.

The antibacterial effect of celery juice might also help clear blemishes. Anti-inflammatory properties, together with a mild dehydrating effect, help to decrease puffiness and swelling. Drinking celery juice can add another plant-based option to achieve clearer, less-inflamed, rejuvenated skin.”

Atlanta Facial Plastic Surgeon Elizabeth G. Whitaker, MD

“Off-label use of Botox or other neurotoxins for TMJ involve injection into some of the muscles of the jaw, such as the masseter muscle. Injection of the masseter muscle can also be used for facial contouring when a slimmer appearance to the jawline is desired, so injection of the masseter for TMJ can definitely produce some alteration in facial shape. The masseter muscle may be enlarged in cases of severe bruxism (teeth grinding), so the cosmetic effect of masseter injection may be of some benefit to the appearance of the jawline, as well as potentially improving TMJ. There are also other treatments for TMJ and bruxism, so it is best to be evaluated by a medical professional for this problem.”

HUEPHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES

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Q

SPONSORED

A NEW OUTLOOK

Veneers seem to be very popular for smile makeovers, but I’m worried my teeth will have an unnatural “chiclet” look. How can I update my smile and still look natural?

“After fighting Stage 3 breast cancer twice in the past 18 years, the effects of chemotherapy, radiation and emotional trauma left me looking and feeling years older. I was tired of hiding behind extra-large sunglasses, and that’s when I decided to do something about it. I consulted with countless surgeons regarding my nose and under-eye area, and while some provided appropriate approaches, no one really understood my needs like Dr. Asaadi. He gave me several options with all varying degrees

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San Francisco Cosmetic Dentist Swati Agarwal, DDS

My ears stick out so much that I’m constantly hiding them behind my hair. I’ve thought about getting ear surgery, but I’m scared of having surgery or getting a bad result. What does this surgery entail?

AFTER

Q

Q

BEFORE

“Dental technologies, techniques and materials have tremendously advanced, and now we can create beautiful, natural veneers that so closely resemble teeth, it is nearly impossible to tell the difference.

At my practice, we are able to do minimal prepping and contouring of teeth, as little as 0.2 mm sometimes, to get highly aesthetic and beautiful results. With the right technique, material and lab, we can create veneers that look like natural teeth.”

I really want to get breast implants, but I’m worried I won’t look like myself if I do.

What one thing should I know before I go under the knife?

Leesburg, VA Plastic Surgeon Phillip J. Chang, MD

Nashville, TN Plastic Surgeon Daniel A. Hatef, MD

“I always tell my patients that their implants will look different after a month or so when the swelling subsides and muscle contractions calm down. Patients get used to the wow factor right after their procedure, and they have some swelling that adds additional volume. When the implants settle, breasts can appear smaller than they did right after the surgery, so sometimes patients want to go bigger. I think it’s important to discuss this with patients pre-operatively so that they aren’t dissatisfied later on.”

“You are describing a condition commonly referred to as ‘protruding ears,’ which is most commonly caused by an oversized conchal bowl, the rounded valley in the outer ear, or the inadequate folding of the superior helical fold, aka the outer rim of the ear. The treatment option for this is called an otoplasty. Depending on the cause of your protruding ears, the conchal bowl is made smaller and/or the helical fold is enhanced by bending ear cartilage. The procedure is typically performed in a surgical center under either twilight or general anesthesia and will take about two hours. The incisions are placed in the back of the ear so that they are very well-hidden. Most patients will be back to work in a week or two.”

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New York plastic surgeon Mokhtar Asaadi, MD performed a rhinoplasty and bilateral lower blepharoplasty on patient Ann Nappi.

of cost, downtime and long-term effects. He and I agreed a rhinoplasty and blepharoplasty was the best choice. My recovery was easy. Once the bandaging was removed, I was able to resume all of my normal activities within six weeks. Since then, I have felt absolutely amazing! The results look so natural, that people always comment on how well rested I look. Beating cancer twice made me a stronger person, but my experiences with Dr. Asaadi helped me to look and feel like myself again…my younger self!”

—Ann Nappi, Former Patient

FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT ASAADIPLASTICSURGERY.COM

AFTER

BEFORE

B+A LIPOSUCTION GALLERY

Liposuction isn’t just for tummies anymore. Below, the popular fat-reducing procedure is used virtually everywhere on the body to contour, slim and accentuate.

AFTER

Newton Centre, MA plastic surgeon Joseph A. Russo, MD performed liposuction with BodyTite on this 45-year-old patient’s arms and finished with Morpheus8 to contour and tighten the skin.

AFTER

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AFTER

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Concerned with the small areas of excess fat on her torso and back, this 29-year-old patient sought New York plastic surgeon Jeffrey S. Yager, MD for a liposuction procedure to contour her waistline.

West Orange, NJ plastic surgeon Mokhtar Asaadi, MD used VASER lipo to remove stubborn fat on this 25-year-old patient’s back, flanks and abdomen that was resistant to diet and exercise.

Miami plastic surgeon Sean Simon, MD performed a Smartlipo treatment on this 39-year-old patient’s stomach and back to trim unwanted body fat and provide the slimmer physique that she desired.

AFTER

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AFTER

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This 22-year-old patient desired more streamlined and less “curvy” legs.

Chicago plastic surgeon Niki Christopoulos, MD used power-assisted liposuction (PALS) to reduce and contour the inner and outer thighs.

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

With complaints of saddlebag deformity, this 44-year-old patient sought Mt. Pleasant, SC plastic surgeon Jack Hensel Jr., MD who performed liposuction to create a slimmer appearance of the lateral thighs.

Atlanta plastic surgeon Carmen M. Kavali, MD used laser-assisted liposuction to contour and sculpt this 35-year-old patient’s neck by eliminating unwanted fat.

THE CLINIC

GALLERY

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

This 35-year-old patient wanted a more toned, sculpted look. Brooklyn, NY plastic surgeon Roman Rayham, MD used standard liposuction to create a slim physique.

To create the more feminine figure this 52-year-old patient desired, Houston plastic surgeon German Newall, MD performed liposuction on the abdomen, hips, flanks and thighs.

AFTER

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AFTER

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To address this 46-year-old patient’s concerns of a “double chin,” Dover, OH facial plastic surgeon David Hartman, MD performed liposuction, which contoured the neck.

New York plastic surgeon David P. Rapaport, MD used liposuction on the neck and chin of this 24-year-old patient to remove unwanted fat and contour her facial profile.

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

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Concerned with fat around her abdomen and flanks, this 38-year-old patient sought Englewood, NJ plastic surgeon Shwetambara Parakh, MD for liposuction to increase definition.

Omaha, NE dermatologist Joel Schlessinger, MD used SmartLipo to target the stubborn belly fat of this 44-year-old patient’s lower abdomen and flanks for a slimming effect.

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

This 29-year-old patient underwent liposuction with Greenville, SC plastic surgeon Michael J. Orseck, MD to smooth and slim her arms by reducing pockets of fat.

To remove excess fat and tighten the appearance of this 51-year-old patient’s jowls, New York plastic surgeon B. Aviva Preminger, MD performed liposuction for a trim look on her neck and jawline.

Individual results may vary. Undergoing this treatment does not guarantee these exact results.

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AFTER

BEFORE

B+A HAIR RESTORATION GALLERY

This 34-year-old patient had visible hair loss along her crown. To promote regrowth, New York dermatologist Doris Day, MD performed four PRP treatments on her scalp, spaced one month apart.

Hair loss can have a major impact on our lives. Luckily, with procedures like transplants and platelet-rich plasma injections, we can reap all of the fringe benefits.

AFTER

New York dermatologist Julie Russak, MD performed a series of PRP microneedling treatments—part of her signature hair restoration package—on this 35-year-old patient with thinning hair.

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

New York dermatologist Marina Peredo, MD treated this 48-year-old patient’s bald spot along her natural hair part with PRP injections in the scalp to stimulate new growth.

This 49-year-old patient overplucked her eyebrows, resulting in her having to fill them in every day. Beverly Hills, CA facial plastic surgeon Natalie Attenello, MD performed a hair transplant on her brows.

This 51-year old patient noticed hair thinning on the top of her head.

Baton Rouge, LA dermatologist Ann Zedlitz, MD performed PRP hair loss injections and red light therapy to boost growth.

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

To reverse this 49-year-old patient’s hair loss, Chicago dermatologist Omer Ibrahim, MD performed three individual PRP treatments and prescribed custom medication to increase hair density.

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

Fresno, CA dermatologist Kathleen Behr, MD addressed this 52-year-old patient’s concerns about hair loss around his crown with two separate platelet-rich plasma (PRP) treatments.

THE CLINIC

GALLERY

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

Princeton, NJ plastic surgeon Adam Hamawy, MD treated this 34-yearold patient’s loss of fullness with a NeoGraft hair restoration procedure and PRP therapy.

To reverse this 47-year-old patient’s frustrating hair loss, Wayne, NJ facial plastic surgeon Jeffrey Wise, MD treated her with three PRP treatments spaced four to six weeks apart and a topical solution for alopecia.

AFTER

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AFTER

BEFORE

Beverly Hills, CA dermatologist Rhonda Rand, MD treated this 26-yearold patient’s thinning hair with a series of PRP injections in the patient’s scalp to stimulate growth.

This 70-year-old patient underwent the “The Activator” treatment with Greenwich, CT dermatologist Mitchell Ross, MD, which included two PRP treatments and ACell injections into the scalp.

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

Engelwood Cliffs, NJ dermatologist Jeffrey Rapaport, MD performed three PRP treatments over the span of two years to help restore this 19-year-old patient’s thinning hair.

To address this 51-year-old patient’s concerns about thinning hair, Grand Rapids, MI plastic surgeon Bradley Bengtson, MD performed a NeoGraft hair restoration procedure. Results are shown six months post-treatment.

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

To address longstanding hair loss on this 58-year-old patient’s hairline, New York dermatologist Adebola Dele-Michael, MD used EuroThreads to stimulate new growth in three months.

This 54-year-old patient experienced thinning hair after menopause. To fill in sparse areas, New York hair restoration specialist Carlos Wesley, MD performed a hair transplant, and results are shown here after one year.

Individual results may vary. Undergoing this treatment does not guarantee these exact results.

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AFTER

BEFORE

B+A LIP + SMILE GALLERY

Few things can age us as much as our mouths. Teeth yellow, gums recede and lips lose volume, but cosmetic solutions such as filler and veneers can save the day.

To improve the asymmetry of this 28-year-old patient’s lips, Greenwich, CT dermatologist Kim Nichols, MD performed a “lip flip” procedure using Botox Cosmetic, off-label, along with Juvéderm to add volume.

LIP ENHANCEMENT AFTER AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

This 59-year-old patient was concerned about the fine lines forming around her mouth. To reverse them, Palo Alto, CA facial plastic surgeons David Lieberman, MD and Sachin Parikh, MD performed a lip lift.

West Palm Beach, FL dermatologist Kenneth R. Beer, MD injected Restylane Silk into the top and bottom lips of this 30-year-old patient to alter their size, but not shape.

This 21-year-old patient liked the outline of her lips, but thought that they were too thin. Nashville, TN dermatologist Jill Fichtel, MD added subtle fullness with Revanesse Versa, off-label.

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

Scottsdale, AZ facial plastic surgeon Kelly Bomer, MD injected Juvéderm into the top and bottom lips of this 52-year-old patient to give her the fuller lips that she desired.

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

Unhappy with her thin, uneven lips, this 29-year-old patient sought New York dermatologist Jody Levine, MD for a natural-looking enhancement, which was achieved using Restylane.

Rochester, NY dermatologist Lesley Loss, MD injected Juvéderm Volbella into the upper and lower lips of this 22-year-old patient to enhance their shape and add volume.

THE CLINIC

GALLERY

SMILE MAKEOVER AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

This 43-year-old patient was concerned with yellowing teeth and a “gummy” smile. After a gum-raising procedure was performed, Atlanta cosmetic dentist Ronald Goldstein, DDS placed veneers for a new smile.

New York cosmetic dentist Husam Almunajed, DDS revitalized this 56-year-old patient’s smile with veneers, teeth whitening and a gum lift to give her a smile that better represented her personality.

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

To correct this 36-year-old patient’s enamel erosion that limited her ability to eat, Powell, OH cosmetic dentist Neal Patel, MD placed porcelain veneers that provided a strengthened and whitened smile.

This 20-year-old patient sought Woodlands, TX cosmetic dentist Guy M. Lewis, DDS for a “Hollywood Smile.” Veneers and crown lengthening gave the appearance of lifted gums and a brighter smile.

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

To address this 46-year-old patient’s complaints of an uneven smile, New York cosmetic dentist Nargiz Schmidt, DDS performed a gum lift and applied minimally invasive veneers and crowns.

Miami cosmetic dentist Gonzalo J. Barrantes, DDS treated this 43-year-old patient with incurable periodontal disease by placing dental implants in the upper and lower arches for a complete smile makeover.

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

This 41-year-old patient was unhappy with the look of her teeth and never smiled as a result. New York cosmetic dentist Irina Kessler, DDS restored her self-confidence with in-office bleaching, a gingivectomy and veneers.

Unhappy with her bulky, porcelain-fused-to-metal crowns that caused gingival inflammation, this 58-year old patient sought Beverly Hills, CA cosmetic dentist Katherine Ahn Wallace, DDS for all-porcelain crowns.

Individual results may vary. Undergoing this treatment does not guarantee these exact results.

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PROMOTION

THE SUMMER EDIT

3.

From a vitamin C peel and a multitasking cream to a scalp UV spray and a cuticle oil, these are the products our members are using to keep their skin, hair and nails healthy this summer.

1. AmorePacific Youth Revolution Radiance Creme and Masque A two-in-one whipped formula—use it as a cream or an overnight mask—that boosts skin’s radiance, hydration and ability to protect itself by way of natural, potent ingredients.

Full size: $200, sephora.com 2. Sulwhasoo Essential Balancing Emulsion EX A lightweight, skin-softening lotion that battles dryness and uneven texture using herbal ingredients.

Full size: $63, nordstrom.com

4.

1.

3. Derma E Vitamin C Peel An ultra-gentle, fruit-derived facial peel with alphahydroxy acids that remove dead skin for added smoothness and an even tone. $23.95, dermae.com 4. ScalpForce UV Filter Hair Tonic An all-natural solution that protects the scalp and strands from the sun. Sea buckthorn oil, coconut oil and wheat protein defend against photoaging without weighing hair down. $26, scalpforce.com 5. Shea Terra Shea Nilotik Cold-Pressed Virgin Shea Butter Organic, creamy shea butter hydrates and heals to help skin stay smooth as butter. Created specifically for dry areas, this whip can be applied to the face, body, cuticles, and even under the eyes, for some much-needed TLC. Full size: $16, sheaterraorganics.com

2.

5.

PROMOTION

6. Nyakio Depuffing & Firming Eye Cream There’s no need to carry any extra (eye) baggage thanks to this de-puffing and firming salve.

Innovative ingredient Peruvian quinoa works with coconut oil and coffee extract to both soothe and energize skin to minimize lingering dark circles. $39, ulta.com

6.

9.

7. Grande Cosmetics GrandePRIMER Your eye makeup’s new waterresistant best friend. This primer preps eyelashes with non-flake fibers and peptides to lengthen and ease mascara application. $25, grandecosmetics.com 8. MMXV Infinitude Universal Facial Treatment A seven-in-one beauty cream that can be used around the eyes and on the face and neck to restore hydration and illumination.

Full size $225, mmxvinfinitude.com 9. Kosmetic Immunity

by JKosmmune Lotion Reach for this lotion to relieve redness, boost collagen levels and deliver total nourishment. It absorbs instantly and it’s nongreasy, so it won’t stick to clothes or cause makeup to move. $32, jkosmmune.com 10. NCLA So Rich in Rose Petals The luxurious cuticle oil nourishes nails, smooths cuticles and boasts a subtle rose scent. $18, nclabeauty.com

7.

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ARE YOU A MEMBER? NewBeauty’s luxury sampling experience delivers $150+ worth of full-and travel-size products to your door bimonthly for only $29.95.*

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8.

NOW

P R O M OT I O N S

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P R O D U C TS

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BEHIND THE SHOOT

S U N N Y D AY S

“It’s important to not put pressure on yourself to be super strict about anything. Balance is important.”

Fresh air, 72 degrees and the backdrop of a super bright, blue-skied LA day?

Perfection. The go-to formula for upping the sunshine factor: a pregnant and glowing supermodel.

—MIRANDA KERR

COLOR STORY Styling vibes: sunny and saturated with a side of neon. Hair and makeup musts: relaxed, glowy and flowy. Glam squad success!

BAYLEY BAUMGARTEN

W H AT W O U L D M K D O ?

PHOTO OP Fueled by Bulletproof coffee—and he brings enough to share!—photog Nino Muñoz always keeps the mood high-energy on set.

Besides the sci-fi button that shuts off ALL of the power in her Malibu home (read more on page 62), we all wanted to know what Miranda Kerr pegs as her most coveted wellness picks.

The #WWMKD winners: Kangen Water Filter (kangenwaternation.com); Rabbit Air Purifier ($550, rabbitair.com); Tilys BIotech Adapter ($65, tilysbiotech.com); KORA Organics Sun-Kissed Glow Body Oil, of which an entire bottle was kicked on set ($58, koraorganics.com); and Young Living (youngliving.com) and doTERRA essential oils (doterra.com).