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THE REAL DEAL ON BLUE LIGHT
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T H E C L E A N B E AU T Y TA K E OV E R
24 INVISIBLE SUNSCREENS
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ARE CHINS THE NEW CHEEKS?
7 D E L I V E RY D I E T S T H AT R E A L LY WO R K
N E X T- L E V E L B O DY M A K E O V E R S
The Beauty Authority
A SANDOW PUBLICATION
SUMMER FALL 2020 â„¢
Jordana Brewster: This Is 40! Makeup-Free + Fabulous
102
The Molly Sims Experience
“I’ve come a long way since my modeling days; I always wanted to look good, but now I also want to be healthy.” The model-actress and unofficial realist person on social media graces our first-ever socially distant cover shoot.
Visit newbeauty.com for a behind-the-scenes look.
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“It was very silent. I was like, ‘We’re on Liquid Xanax right now.’ Everybody washed their hands 50 times. The stylist would come up, then walk away and wait; and then the hairdresser would come up, and walk away and wait. It was musical chairs. John was incredible. He’s such an amazing, beautiful photographer. He makes you feel so good. That’s part of it.”
BEHIND THE SHOOT
From our makeshift desks and our dogs barking in the background, we introduce our first-ever socially distant cover shoot. Our easygoing and gorgeous cover star, Molly Sims, and some deft skills from photographer John Russo—from UV-sanitizing the makeup to having an RV in the driveway for the pared-down crew and equipment, he literally wrote the guidelines on how to do this safely—were used to get through-the-glass, six-feet-away “closeups” and open-air shots in Malibu. The days of Craft service catering may be on “pause,” but we like to think the final images speak to the fact that a good boxed lunch can fuel creativity.
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COVER: JOHN RUSSO; MAKEUP: SPENCER BARNES FOR EA; HAIR: EMILY HEDICKE; STYLING: SONJA CHRISTENSEN AT FORWARD ARTISTS; SWEATER: JOIE; SHORTS: ONE TEASPOON; EARRINGS: ANITA KO; BEHIND-THE-SCENES: TAS LIMUR
—Molly Sims
6/25/20 3:27 PM
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SUMMER FALL 2020
26 52
17 NewBeauty Cares
We spotlight the efforts made by beauty brands to support COVID-19 and social injustice initiatives
24 Quarantine
Chronicles
A glimpse into celeb stay-at-home happenings via social media
The Beauty Authority Photographer: John Russo; Makeup: Spencer Barnes for EA; Hair: Emily Hedicke; Styling: Sonja Christensen at Forward Artists
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28 Booster Shot
54 Muse
33 Ray of Light
56 Swiss Beat
34 The New Nude Lip
60 Skin Smarts
36 Sea Level
62 Michelle Monaghan
40 Light Bright
64 Veronica Webb
44 Hello Sunshine!
68 Molly Sims
HELENAAK/ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PRO, IMAGE USED FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY; JOHN RUSSO; PEOPLEIMAGES/GETTY IMAGES (2); DELMAINE DONSON/GETTY IMAGES; PEOPLEIMAGES/GETTY IMAGES
The products, activities and apps our editors and Brain Trust members relied on over the past few months to keep the calm and find joy
TRENDS A-LIST
19 Brain Trust
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HAIR FACE BODY WELLNESS
74 88 112 126
90 Take a Brow 92 Bright Idea 76 Grass Roots
96 Layering Product
114 Body Language
128 The Clean Team
78 Color Saviors
100 Flower Power
116 Hands Free
132 Healthy Smile
82 Hair Makeovers
106 Chin Augmentation
120 Shape Shifters
138 Soul Food
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newbeauty.com
WHAT’S ONLINE Everything to know about the latest treatments, products and trends is right at your fingertips.
All beauty, all the time. Scan the below codes on your smartphone to check it out.
TREATMENTS Super Effective In-Office Treatments That Only Require One Visit
A-LIST 10 Cult-Classic Products Celebrities Can’t Get Enough Of
HAIR 9 Things You Shouldn’t Do After Coloring Your Hair
FACE 10 Anti-Aging Products With More Than 100,000 Likes on Sephora.com
BODY How to Conduct an At-Home Skin Cancer Screening, According to Dermatologists
Cover Star Spotlight
Alanis Morissette Shares Her Best Meditation Tips to Help Calm Anxiety
@newbeautymagazine
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Read more about our cover star Molly Sims and our firstever social-distancing shoot!
@newbeauty
JOHN RUSSO
WELLNESS
@newbeauty
6/23/20 4:54 PM
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Steffanie Attenberg CHIEF BRAND OFFICER
EXECUTIVE EDITOR
C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R
Elizabeth Ritter
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EDITORIAL
ART
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Darko Mühl
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S U M M E R – F A L L 2020
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E D I T O R I A L A S S I S TA N T
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Dr. Robert Singer
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6/23/20 4:56 PM
WHO SAYS ULTHERAPY BOOSTS YOUR COLLAGEN? OH, RIGHT. SCIENCE. ®
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January 2020
BE REVOLUTIONARY.
own collagen, for natural-looking results.
NOTE
The New Normal Robert Singer, MD
CHIEF BRAND OFFICER
@SingerSurgical
SJA@newbeauty.com
S U M M E R – F A L L 2020
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N E W B E A U T Y. C O M
The world hit the “pause” button over the past couple of months, and the world of aesthetics was no different. During the time spent at home, there may have been an uptick in online beauty-product buying, self-care and face mask recipes, but pretty much everything related to elective surgery came to a standstill—although it was very much still on the minds of patients who continued to call for procedures and treatments, which, unfortunately, were no longer an option. As the industry came together in conversation to make a blueprint for moving forward, one thing was certain: There was a lot to figure out, and we had to move quickly. Patient safety, whether for noninvasive or surgical procedures, has been, and always should be, the priority for any reputable, ethical doctor, but now there was a new force to contend with: COVID-19. And things did move quickly. New protection protocols were put into place, best practices were fine-tuned and appropriate precautions were taken. This was always voluntary (only the ethical are encumbered by ethics), but it’s accurate to say that the overwhelming majority of the industry rallied together to put forth a solid plan. Of course, any predictions are still just that, but it is vital to stress that safety is of the utmost importance during this time—and you would be smart to be wary of anyone offering “special promotions,” which often involve cutting corners. We are still at the very beginning of the learning curve of this virus with many unknowns of what will be this new normal. We at NewBeauty will keep you updated as things progress and additional valid scientific data becomes available. Our wish for you is to stay healthy. ABOUT
Dr. Robert Singer |
drsinger@newbeauty.com
Internationally renowned aesthetic plastic surgeon and noted educator Robert Singer, MD of La Jolla, CA is a diplomate of the American Board of Plastic Surgery and has served as president and chairman of the Board of Trustees of the prestigious Aesthetic Society, chairman of the Board of Trustees of the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS), president of the American Association for Accreditation of Ambulatory Surgery Facilities, and president of the Aesthetic Surgery Education and Research Foundation (ASERF), an organization he most recently received a Career Achievement Award from to recognize his contributions to the field.
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Steffanie Attenberg
C H A I R M A N O F T H E B OA R D
As we began putting this issue together, the world changed. Trying to work at our kitchen-counter desks and in our basementturned-offices while balancing the serious concerns of COVID-19, the health and wellness of our loved ones, homeschooling and more, was not easy. So, trying to find the words to say how incredibly proud I am of the flexibility and determination of the NewBeauty team is not easy either. Every issue presents its challenges, but at no time in history (at least not in my publishing history) have we had to pivot as much as we have over the past couple of months. As we successfully transitioned from a collaborative environment to one led by Zoom and conference calls, we became stronger, more communicative, and above all, more forward-thinking. From our first-ever social-distancing cover shoot to our expanded Instagram Live series NewBeauty Talks, we started doing things differently. We also launched a new initiative called NewBeauty Cares, which recognizes those who are stepping up, listening and learning. I encourage you to find out more by following us on Instagram, taking action and helping us to make a difference. Additionally, we are proud to announce our support of The Loveland Foundation, an impactful organization that brings opportunity and healing to communities of color. We are donating 20 percent of the proceeds from all new orders of the July TestTube to this Foundation, and we look forward to spearheading similar initiatives in the future. This issue came together beautifully, and we hope you enjoy reading it! We’re listening. We’re learning. We’re acting. Our team has been having open and honest discussions about what we can do better; as a first step, we will be donating 20% of all new orders from the July TestTube proceeds to The Loveland Foundation—an organization that brings opportunity and healing to communities of color, and especially to Black females. We look forward to continuing to support our community, our industry and important initiatives in the future.
Scan here to subscribe to TestTube and support this important cause!
6/30/20 12:59 PM
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CARES We’re listening. We’re learning. We’re acting.
DELMAINE DONSON/GETTY IMAGES
The beauty industry is strong and unwaivering in its philanthropic support, which is why we’ve launched NewBeauty Cares, an initiative that highlights the people, organizations, brands and products that are making a difference.
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To find out more about giving back, scan below and visit newbeauty.com
6/24/20 8:23 AM
years of transformation
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Brain Trust Beauty and self-care are so important during times like this, whether it’s wearing sunscreen at your at-home desk, applying the most luxe makeup launch or taking a cue from celebs on what they’re finding as favorites. Here’s what our editors and Brain Trust members relied on over the past few months to stay sane and spark joy.
Anastasia Soare ANASTASIA BEVERLY HILLS @anastasiasoare
Even though quarantine rules have loosened up, I’m still navigating current events with added anxiety. I am a very early riser, so I’ve been starting some of my lowest days with a bath. What is usually my wind-down ritual now happens in the morning, and it helps me center and focus on the day ahead.”
Andrew Jacono, MD FACIAL PLASTIC SURGEON @drjacono
Anthony Youn, MD PLASTIC SURGEON @tonyyounmd
Ashley Streicher HAIRSTYLIST @streicherhair
Aura Friedman COLORIST @auracolorist
Ava Shamban, MD DERMATOLOGIST @dravasays
B. Aviva Preminger, MD PLASTIC SURGEON @premingermd
Bart Kaczanowicz OMGBART.COM @omgbart
Bianca Espada BIANCAESPADA.COM @biancaespada
Bradley Bengtson, MD PLASTIC SURGEON @bengtsoncenter
N E W B E A U T Y. C O M
Allyn Rose WOMEN’S HEALTH ADVOCATE @allynrose
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Alicia Yoon FOUNDER OF PEACH & LILY @aliciayoon212
S U M M E R – F A L L 2020
Adir Abergel HAIRSTYLIST @hairbyadir
“
To stay productive at work during challenging circumstances, my mornings matter. With my morning tea, I take a quiet moment to jot down priorities for the day before starting work and reacting to emails, which keeps my day focused. Lately, I’ve been sheetmasking each day, sometimes in the mornings, to keep my skin calm during more stressful times. A hydrating, gentle sheet mask daily works like a charm.” —Alicia Yoon
—Bart Kaczanowicz
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Carl Thornfeldt, MD DERMATOLOGIST
Carolyn Delucia, MD OB-GYN @carolyndeluciamd
Chad Kenyon CELEBRITY COLORIST @chadkenyon
Charles Crutchfield III, MD DERMATOLOGIST @crutchfield dermatology
Chris Hobson PRESIDENT & CEO OF RARE BEAUTY BRANDS
DAVINES DR. BRANDT MICRODERMABRASION BODY NATURALTECH ENERGIZING “More time at home SUPERACTIVE means more self-care: The tiny medical-grade exfoliating crystals in this scrub slough off every inch of dullness for baby-soft skin. It's perfect to use before self-tanning, too.” $44, drbrandtskincare.com
—DANIELLE FONTANA DOOLEY, SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR
Christine Chang COFOUNDER GLOW RECIPE @christine_glow
“The stress of COVID-19 took a toll, and I started noticing more hair on my floor. Then I started using this serum, and the amount of shedding was significantly less.” $56.50, us.davines.com —SARAH EGGENBERGER, EDITOR-AT-LARGE
Dr. Craig Ziering HAIR RESTORATION SPECIALIST @dr.craigziering
I like getting up early in the morning, when it is all quiet. I enjoy my black coffee and mediating before checking on my emails and social media and starting my day. I read from meditation books and choose a different chapter to focus on my meditation for the day. I do this for 10 to 15 minutes. One of the books I am practicing meditation from right now is Healing Meditations by Tulku Thondup.” —Ermahn Ospina
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Brooke Alpert NUTRITIONIST @bnutritious
D’Andre Michael MAKEUP ARTIST & AESTHETICIAN @dandremichael
Dennis Gross, MD DERMATOLOGIST @dennisgrossmd
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Danielle Duboise COFOUNDER OF SAKARA LIFE @danielleduboise
Elena Severin BRAND PARTNERSHIPS, THE DETOX MARKET @thedetoxmarket
Caroline Hirons AESTHETICIAN @carolinehirons
Charles Chen CELEBRITY CHEF @charleschentv
Creighton Bowman HAIRSTYLIST @creightonbowman
Cyndi RamirezFulton, FOUNDER OF CHILLHOUSE @cyndiramirez
Danuta Mieloch FOUNDER OF RESCUE SPA @danutamieloch
Deborah Sarnoff MD, SKIN CANCER FOUNDATION @skincancerorg
Deepica Mutyala FOUNDER OF LIVE TINTED @deepica
Ermahn Ospina MAKEUP ARTIST @ermahnopsina
Georgia Louise Vassanelli AESTHETICIAN @georgialouisesk
Giannandrea CELEBRITY HAIRSTYLIST @giannandreahair
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I have been spending my summer weekends chilling with a book and a big, floppy hat. During the week, I have been taking lots of long runs (six to nine miles)—some with my husband and some by myself—to help stay calm and sane.” —Jeanine B. Downie, MD
Ginger King COSMETIC CHEMIST @thebeauty sharkginger
Goretti Taghva, MD PLASTIC SURGEON @leaplasticsurgery
Heidi A. Waldorf, MD DERMATOLOGIST @drheidiwaldorf
Hope Gillerman HOLISTIC HEALER & AROMATHERAPIST @hopegillerman
Ian Ginsberg C.O. BIGELOW APOTHECARIES @cobigelow
Irene Gladstein, MD OCULOPLASTIC SURGEON @theenhancers
Jackie Aina JACKIEAINA.COM @jackieaina
Jeanine B. Downie, MD DERMATOLOGIST @jeaninedownie
Jennifer Hanway HOLISTIC NUTRITIONIST @jenniferhanway
Joanna Czech AESTHETICIAN @joannaczechofficial
Joel L. Cohen, MD DERMATOLOGIST @aboutskinderm
Joel Schlessinger, MD DERMATOLOGIST @omahabeautydoc
Josh Rosebrook SKIN-CARE AND HAIR-CARE EXPERT @joshrosebrook
Julius Few, MD PLASTIC SURGEON @juliusfewmd
K.J. Zayon PERSONAL TRAINER @kjzayon
Kate Oldham SVP, GMM OF BEAUTY AT SAKS FIFTH AVENUE @saks
Katie Bofshever STYLIST @katiebof
Katya Bychkova STYLESPRINTER.COM @stylesprinter
Kelly Bomer, MD FACIAL PLASTIC SURGEON @rejuventmedicalspa
Kenneth Beer, MD DERMATOLOGIST @kenneth.beer
Kimberly Jerdan, MD DERMATOLOGIST @drskinberly
Lacey Stone FITNESS TRAINER AT THE WALL @laceystonefitness
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“
I love a day that starts with yoga and an aromatically induced meditation, but I confess I don’t have always have time. So, Charlie and I make a point of a daily sunset nature walk to breathe into my ultimate chill-zone.” —Hope Gillerman
6/22/20 5:35 PM
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Lara Eurdolian PRETTY CONNECTED.COM @prettyconnected
Linda Rodin ENTREPRENEUR & MODEL @lindaandwinks
Lola Gusman THEHERMES HIPPIE.COM @thehermeshippie
Lynelle Lynch BEAUTY CHANGES LIVES FOUNDATION @bellusacademy
Lynne McNees PRESIDENT OF ISPA @ispadoyou
Marina Peredo, MD DERMATOLOGIST @skinfluencemd
Mark Jewell, MD PLASTIC SURGEON @markjewellmd
Mazz Hanna CELEBRITY MANICURIST @mazzhanna
Melinda Haws, MD PLASTIC SURGEON @plasticsurgerycenter nashville
Michelle Henry, MD DERMATOLOGIST @drmichellehenry
Millie Kendall CEO OF THE BRITISH BEAUTY COUNCIL @milliekendall
Mona Kattan PRESIDENT OF HUDA BEAUTY @monakattan
Nargiz Schmidt, DDS COSMETIC DENTIST @smileinthecity365
Natalie Attenello, MD FACIAL PLASTIC SURGEON @drnatalieattenello
Nerida Joy AESTHETICIAN @askneridajoy
Nikki Lee HAIRSTYLIST @nikkilee901
Renato Saltz, MD PLASTIC SURGEON @saltzplasticsurgery
Renée Chow CONTENT CREATOR @gothamista
Ronald Goldstein, DDS COSMETIC DENTIST @ggsdentistry
Sandy Linter MAKEUP ARTIST @sandylinter
Sanjay Grover, MD PLASTIC SURGEON @sanjaygrovermd
Sarah Lee COFOUNDER OF GLOW RECIPE @sarah_glow
Shab Reslan TRICHOLOGIST @shabhairexpert
Shani Darden AESTHETICIAN @shanidarden
Shari Auth ACUPUNCTURE & CHINESE MEDICINE @shariauth
Simon Marxer SPA DIRECTOR, MIRAVAL RESORTS @miravalresorts
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This has been a time for reflection. I go to Central Park every day and feed the wildlife—it is good exercise, calming and the fresh air provides peace of mind. I wear a mask and gloves every day. I am a COVID-19 survivor.” —Sandy Linter
6/22/20 5:55 PM
Stephen Alain Ko COSMETIC FORMULATOR @kindofstephen
During quarantine, I turned my bedroom into a studio to shoot content for my brand. I purchased ring lights and bamboo props, and enjoyed creating unique ways to photograph my products while we aren’t able to do so in the office.” —Sue Nabi
Steven Dayan, MD FACIAL PLASTIC SURGEON @drstevendayan
Steven Fagien, MD OCULOPLASTIC SURGEON @drstevenfagien
Sue Nabi COFOUNDER OF ORVEDA @orvedaskincare
Tanya Zuckerbrot DIETITIAN & FOUNDER OF F-FACTOR @tanyazuckerbrot
Tara Bradley Connell RYT-200 YOGA INSTRUCTOR @tbrad_3
Tara Cruz SPA, FOUR SEASONS NY DOWNTOWN @fsnydowntown
Tess Koenig YOGA & MEDITATION @tessiemade
Tiffany McCormack, MD PLASTIC SURGEON @mccormack plasticsurgery
Tim Quinn MAKEUP ARTIST @timquinnbeauty
Tina Alster, MD DERMATOLOGIST @drtinaalster
Vanessa Fitzgerald HOLISTIC HEALTH COACH @veeshoney
Veronica Barton-Schwartz VERONICA SKINCARE @veronicamalibu
Veronica Webb BEAUTY WRITER & MODEL @veronicawebb
Vivian Bucay, MD DERMATOLOGIST @drvivianbucay
Whitney Tingle COFOUNDER OF SAKARA LIFE @whitneytingle
Spencer Spaulding COFOUNDER OF FORWARD ARTISTS @spencerpaul
@shariauth
LASHIFY CONTROL KIT “Before quarantine, I was a five-year lash extension addict with no plans of quitting, until I tried Lashify. It’s so easy to give myself extensions in a flash, and they last days longer than typical falsies!” $145, lashify.com —TATIANA BIDO,
“This app helps me make time to breathe and find my center. It offers guided meditations, mindfulness music and more for when I just need a break from the chaos.” —OLIVIA WOHLNER,
FEATURES EDITOR
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
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THE CALM APP
JAN MARINI MULTI-ACID RESURFACING PADS
BATHORIUM BECALM BUBBLE ELIXIR
“I started treating my skin-care routine like a relaxing self-care ritual, and these alphahydroxy acid–soaked pads have been one of my favorite products to use. They really make my skin glow!” $88, janmarini.com
“It may be summer, but my every-night hot bath habit has no shame. Over the past couple months, I even upped it to a twice-a-day occurrence to force myself to take a moment. I love the calming scent of this luxe bubble bath, and I love that it doesn’t dry out my skin no matter how many times I go in for a dip. I recently topped it off with FootNanny Socks for some serious spa-time.” $24, bathorium.com
—BRITTANY BURHOP FALLON, BEAUTY DIRECTOR
—LIZ RITTER, EXECUTIVE EDITOR
6/22/20 5:55 PM
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CELEBRITY EDITION
Quarantine Chronicles
S U M M E R - F A L L 2020
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N E W B E A U T Y. C O M
Celebrities get a bad rep for being unrelatable, but there’s nothing like a stay-at-home order to showcase how human they really are. From bare-faced selfies and a peek into their kitchens to tips on how to deal with inevitable grays, some of our favorite A-listers made quarantine a little bit easier. —Danielle Fontana Dooley
EVA MENDES
MARIAH CAREY
@evamendes
@MariahCarey
Glam Squads Went Goodbye Eva Mendes traded her professional makeup artist for an in-house glam squad: her two little girls, Esmeralda and Amada. “They won,” she captioned her colorful makeover. Meanwhile, Mariah Carey put her cosmetology background to use on daughter Monroe, captioning the video, “Passing time in quarantine...My 500 hours of beauty school came in handy!”
PRIYANKA CHOPRA JONAS @priyankachopra
SELENA GOMEZ @selenagomez
Celebrities Became Teachers Everyone from Priyanka Chopra Jonas to Selena Gomez did their part in educating their millions of Instagram followers with the #SafeHands challenge, teaching viewers the proper way to thoroughly wash their hands. Chopra Jonas even shared a fitting song, courtesy of her Jonas Brother husband, to ensure the CDC-recommended 20-second wash each time.
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When health-conscious Denise Richards told us that indulging was very much a thing for her family at the start of quarantine, we breathed a big sigh of relief. “Lots of mac ‘n’ cheese, lots of ice cream at night. I made macaroni and cheese for breakfast one day!” —Denise Richards
6/18/20 9:07 AM
Gray Hair Is IN Eva Longoria Baston, Tracee Ellis Ross, Kelly Ripa and other A-listers reminded us that grays don’t care if you’re famous. While many decided to embrace their silver strands, Longoria Baston decided to cover up her roots at home with help from L’Oréal’s Excellence Créme—and took us along for the ride.
TARAJI P. HENSON @tarajiphenson
EVA LONGORIA BASTON @evalongoria
HILARY DUFF @hilaryduff
JESSICA ALBA
JULIANNE HOUGH
@jessicaalba
@juleshough
SARAH M. GELLAR @sarahmgellar
Sweat Sessions Became Therapy Sessions Fitness enthusiast Kyle Richards told us exercise plays a huge role in alleviating her anxiety, but that doesn’t mean she doesn’t need a little motivation to keep at it. “I have a Peloton group of friends, and we take a class together every day from our homes. It really helps and we help push each other.” Celebrities including Jessica Alba and Julianne Hough helped to keep us motivated to get a sweat sesh in, too.
Hello #QuaranColor Meticulously painted highlights were covered with rainbow-bright dye during quarantine. Taraji P. Henson opted for a fiery-red hue, Hilary Duff went for a bright turquoise and Sarah Michelle Gellar’s choice proved that rose-gold hair will never go out of style.
IMAGES: INSTAGRAM, TWITTER
BARE SKIN WAS CELEBRATED
GABRIELLE UNION-WADE @gabunion
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HELEN MIRREN @helenmirren
JULIA ROBERTS @juliaroberts
HALLE BERRY @halleberry
After being covered in heavy makeup virtually every day, celebrities embraced the opportunity to let their skin breathe and put makeup on the backburner—even on social media!
6/17/20 4:14 PM
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BOOSTER SHOT
TRENDS
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N E W B E A U T Y. C O M
Syringe serums and colorful essences straight from Seoul
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RAY OF LIGHT
A tale of Givenchy's glow-inducing iconic product
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THE NEW NUDE LIP
How to take the guesswork out of finding that perfect color match
36
SEA LEVEL
Why algae-infused formulas may be the secret to better skin
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LIGHT BRIGHT
How to protect against the damaging effects of blue light
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HELLO SUNSHINE!
The latest SPF advances taking summer by storm
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HELENAAK/ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PRO, IMAGE USED FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY
40% of the total surgical procedures performed in 2019 were on people aged 35 to 50
Source: The Aesthetic Society
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6/18/20 3:04 PM
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STUDY ABROAD
Booster Shot
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N E W B E A U T Y. C O M
For Alicia Yoon, founder of Peach & Lily, syringe-looking serums and colorful layering essences curated from her favorite spa in Seoul top the list of hydration must-haves this season. —Liz Ritter
Eco Your Skin Booster-Serum and Layering Essence Ringer Drip, $35–$50, peachandlily.com
Ringer Drip
Glow Stick
Analyze This
Eco Your Skin’s Skin Lab L is always one of Yoon’s first stops when she visits South Korea—both for her own skin-perfecting goals and curating products for the site. Most recently, she was especially impressed by the outpost’s Layering Essences, targeted treatments (think Moisturizing, Lifting, Soothing), referred to as “liquid supplements for the skin.”
Another recent addition from the spa to the Peach & Lily site: The highly concentrated Booster Serums. The design is decidedly syringe-like, making it easy to mix a drop of the antioxidant-, vitamin- and hyaluronic acid–rich formulas into other serums and creams or apply solo directly to the face and neck.
Yoon says she respects how seriously Skin Lab L takes its expert lineup—all aestheticians go through rigorous training, and most product purchases are coupled with a skin scan and analysis for the utmost in personalization. “It’s something I would like to bring here some day,” she says. “Stay tuned!”
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6/17/20 4:00 PM
MORE THAN A GLOW. A SKIN TRANSFORMATION. Experience DiamondGlow™, a next-level, noninvasive skin resurfacing treatment, designed to work with SkinMedica®, the best in skincare science, to deliver radiant, rejuvenated, and healthy-looking skin. FIND A PROVIDER NEAR YOU AT DIAMONDGLOW.COM FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @DIAMONDGLOW
Actual DiamondGlow™ patient. Uses The DiamondGlow™ device is a general dermabrasion device that gently removes the top layer of skin and delivers topical cosmetic serums onto the skin. Important Safety Information The DiamondGlow™ treatment is not for everyone. You should not have a DiamondGlow™ treatment if you are pregnant, lactating or have compromised skin quality. Tell your provider if you have any medical conditions, including allergies, and if you are using topical medications on the area to be treated. Typical side effects include a scratchy, stinging sensation during the treatment and temporary tightness, redness or slight swelling after the treatment. Rare serious side effects may also occur and include severe skin irritation and allergic reactions. SkinMedica® Pro-Infusion Serums Disclaimer SkinMedica® Pro-Infusion Serums are intended to meet the FDA’s definition of a cosmetic product, an article applied to the human body to cleanse, beautify, promote attractiveness, and alter appearances. These products are not intended to be drugs that diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease or condition. These products have not been approved by the FDA and the statements have not been evaluated by the FDA. Please talk to your provider for additional information. SkinMedica® Important Information Most SkinMedica® products are intended to meet the FDA’s definition of a cosmetic product, an article applied to the human body to cleanse, beautify, promote attractiveness, and alter appearances. These SkinMedica® products are not intended to be drug products that diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease or condition. These products have not been approved by the FDA, and the statements here have not been evaluated by the FDA.
©2020 Allergan. All rights reserved. All trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Allergan.com DiamondGlow.com SkinMedica.com 137186 05/20 006495
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Actual DiamondGlow™ Patient
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DiamondGlow™ Important Safety Information DiamondGlow™ is noninvasive and treats the face, around the eye area, lips, and body. The DiamondGlow™ device is a general dermabrasion device that gently removes the top layer of skin and delivers topical cosmetic serums onto the skin. Important Safety Information The DiamondGlow™ treatment is not for everyone. You should not have a DiamondGlow™ treatment if you have compromised skin quality. Tell your provider if you are pregnant or lactating, or if you have any medical conditions, including allergies, and if you are using topical medications on the area to be treated. Typical side effects include a scratchy, stinging sensation during the treatment and temporary tightness, redness or slight swelling after the treatment. Rare serious side effects may also occur and include severe skin irritation and allergic reactions.
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SKINMEDICA® ULTRA HYDRATING An infusion of hyaluronic acid to rehydrate and smooth skin
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SkinMedica® Pro-Infusion Serums Disclaimer SkinMedica® Pro-Infusion Serums are intended to meet the FDA’s definition of a cosmetic product, an article applied to the human body to cleanse, beautify, promote attractiveness, and alter appearances. These products are not intended to be drugs that diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease or condition. These products have not been approved by the FDA and the statements have not been evaluated by the FDA. Please talk to your provider for additional information. ©2020 Allergan. All rights reserved. All trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Allergan, 2525 Dupont Drive, Irvine, CA 92612. Allergan.com DiamondGlow.com. 137551 06/20
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EVOLUTION OF INNOVATION TNS® ADVANCED+ SERUM Transformational results, starting in just 2 weeks.1 This powerful serum is clinically proven to improve visible signs of aging1: + Fine and coarse lines and wrinkles + Uneven tone and texture + Sagging skin
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Reference: 1. Data on file at SkinMedica® The SkinMedica® product described here is intended to meet the FDA’s definition of a cosmetic product, an article applied to the human body to cleanse, beautify, promote attractiveness, and alter appearances. This SkinMedica® product is not intended to be a drug product that diagnoses, treats, cures, or prevents any disease or condition. This product has not been approved by the FDA, and the statements here have not been evaluated by the FDA. ©2020 Allergan. All rights reserved. All trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Allergan, 2525 Dupont Drive, Irvine, CA 92612. Allergan.com SkinMedica.com 06/20 TNS137188 006494
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C U LT- C L AS S I C
Ray of Light In 2006, Givenchy’s makeup and color artistic director Nicolas Degennes had an a-ha moment: combine four loose powders in one case to give skin an opalescent glow. Now, Prisme Libre is an icon. —Brittany Burhop Fallon
Color Code
Prisme Libre is the number-one prestige loose powder in Asia. S U M M E R – F A L L 2020
Best-selling shade No. 1 Mousseline Pastel—five new quads with other color combos just launched, too— features four pastels, but when blended on the skin, the result is translucent. “The skin on the face is never all one color,” Degennes says. “You have to mix three or four shades to recreate its natural radiance: Green corrects redness, blue balances dullness, pearlescent white captures light, and purple brightens sallowness.”
Light Works
VICTOR VIRGILE/GAMMA-RAPHO/GETTY IMAGES
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“When I think about face powder, I can’t help but think about light,” Degennes says. “When light hits and passes through a prism, a rainbow is diffracted and all of the different hues come together as one. Prisme Libre has established itself as the ultimate light source. Its ultra-fine particles reflect light onto the skin, which delivers a luminous glow.” Givenchy Prisme Libre, $58, sephora.com
N E W B E A U T Y. C O M
Much like the airy petalform gowns of Hubert de Givenchy’s Couture collections float down the runway, the Prisme Libre powder floats on top of skin. It manages to create a matte finish that blurs imperfections, while also imparting the silkiest sheen.
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Couture Complexion
Power Puff For allover, sheer coverage, sprinkle some powder into the lid of the case, blend with a fluffy brush and apply as you would any loose powder. To mattify certain areas of the face, like the T-zone and around the eyes and lips, Degennes suggests the “shake and stamp” technique. “Hold the puff over the sifter, shake the case twice, then dab the powder onto your skin.”
6/18/20 8:34 PM
SHADE MATCH
The New Nude Lip
Making huge strides in foundation shade ranges over the last few years, cosmetic brands are at the forefront of shade inclusivity. So much so, that when Crayola released its Shades of the World collection this spring, it called on CoverFX cofounder Victor Casale to make sure it got its skin tone– inspired crayons just right. Ironically, the colorcreators looked to beauty for help with shade diversity. And, while we may have more options for our complexions, advancements are limited when it comes to a good old-fashioned nude lippie. R O S A R I O DAW S O N
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If you have a hard time finding your perfect “barely there” shade at Sephora, you are not alone. For anyone with a skin tone darker than medium, finding the “perfect nude lip” can seem like an impossible feat. Although beige shades labeled nude are abound, one person’s nude is another’s too opaque. —Tatiana Bido
01
The Pink Problem Celebrity makeup artist Ermahn Ospina, whose clients include Rosario Dawson, Jordana Brewster and Sarah Shahi, says the labeling is what’s really misleading. “A lipstick or lip liner labeled nude doesn’t mean ‘one shade fits all’ unfortunately, so it can be harder to identify what will complement your skin tone without doing a lot of homework.”
For Live Tinted founder Deepica Mutyala, finding the perfect shade has always been a struggle. “Seeing a ‘nude’ that doesn’t fit my skin tone is frustrating and leaves me feeling overlooked by the industry,” she says. “For the longest time, it felt like brands didn’t realize that ‘nude’ can mean a plethora of beautiful shades, rather than what you see on display in stores.” “It’s like buying panty hose,” explains In the Heights actress Dascha Polanco. “Matching a nude to my skin tone is extremely cumbersome. I don’t want to put on a pair of opaque stockings that don’t blend into my skin tone. That’s what it’s like to shop for a nude lipstick when yours is not the universal shade.”
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Beauty content creator Jackie Aina says the default nude is always pink. “Pink is one of my favorite colors, but for my lips? I’m tired of only seeing variations of nude pink. That is not the nude I always want to wear.”
6/23/20 4:42 PM
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Naked Ambition Ospina says don’t despair if you’re struggling to find your go-to nude, as things are slowly getting better on the diversity front and lips are the next frontier. “Back in the ’90s, it seemed like the only option we had for nude lips was the color Spice by MAC Cosmetics. Now, MAC and other brands offer a great variety of nude shades and formulas to choose from.” So, how do you find your perfect nude? “Some people prefer a slightly-lighter-than-your-complexion ‘nude’ so there’s a little contrast and depth in the lips. Others may like a nude that completely matches and blends in with their complexion,” explains Aina. “You’ll also want to identify whether you like warmer or cooler tones. I love warmer nudes, so anytime I see something peachy, or a yellow-based brown nude, I go for it!” If all else fails, Aina says you can get practically any nude to work on darker shades by pairing it with a dark brown lip pencil. “Because dark brown is nude on me, it works as a buffer shade to get any color to flatter my skin tone and not stand out, as opposed to when I wear that same lip color alone.”
JAC KIE AINA
“Back in the ’90s, it seemed like the only option we had for nude lips was the color Spice by MAC Cosmetics.” —Ermahn Ospina
Bare Necessities
01
02
03
04
01 Polanco says filling her lips in with Charlotte Tilbury Lip Cheat in Pillow Talk Intense gives her lips that “my skin, but better” look. $22, charlottetilbury.com
BRANDON LUNDBY
02 For a warm, light-brown nude with a bonus of added fullness, try GrandeLIPS Plumping Liquid Lipstick in Butter Rum. $25, grandecosmetics.com
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03 Pat McGrath Labs LuxeTrance Lipstick in LaBeija is the perfect peach-tone nude with a creamy finish, and complements warmer skin tones. $38, patmcgrath.com 04 For the ultimate barely there look, Aina says Mented Cosmetics Mented #5 is one of her go-tos, and delivers a semi-matte finish. $17, mentedcosmetics.com
6/16/20 7:53 AM
OBSESSED
Sea Level
The Algae Effect
The 2 Types
Of the more than 30,000 identified species of algae, only about a dozen have been studied for their use in skin care. “Some forms of algae are the ancestors to all land plants, which shows the resilience, vitality and strength of these simple plants,” says Allison McNamara, founder of Mara Skincare.
There are two main categories of algae: macro and micro. Macroalgae (seaweed) are multicellular marine plants found in clean, coastal waters, and are divided into three groups based on their pigment: brown (aka kelp), red and green. “Macroalgae form a larger physical plant that you can actually see and feel,” McNamara says.
Ginger King, a cosmetic chemist with expertise in marine ingredients, says algae is a gold mine for skin care. “Scientists and aquaculturists have figured out ways to extract high amounts of amino acids, vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids and antioxidants from the seaweed, which can then be infused into skin-care products to moisturize and detoxify skin, as well as boost microcirculation and protect cells from oxidative damage.”
Microalgae—you’ve probably heard of two popular types, spirulina and chlorella—are unicellular and invisible to the naked eye. “These have a smaller molecular weight, which means they can better penetrate the skin,” King explains. However, this doesn’t necessarily mean micro is better, she adds: “Both types have unique properties, and they’re actually often combined into one formula for enhanced effects.”
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YULIYA DERBISHEVA/GETTY IMAGES
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Slimy seaweed brushing against our legs in cloudy water is enough to make our skin crawl, but an algae-infused serum that promises to brighten and hydrate dull skin? Sign us up. —Brittany Burhop Fallon
6/16/20 7:53 AM
“Algae is a gold mine for skin care.”
CALEB & GLADYS/BLAUBLUT-EDITION.COM
—Ginger King
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Macroalgae BROWN ALGAE
(phaeophyceae)
RED ALGAE
(rhodophyta)
These types of algae are a rich source of bioactive polysaccharides, like carrageenan, which help boost skin’s barrier function and moisture retention, as well as reduce lines and wrinkles. According to King, red algae also improves microcirculation in the skin, which allows any active ingredients applied afterward to work better and faster. As a result, many skindetoxifying masks contain red algaes, such as Irish Moss and lithothamnium calcareum, so they can gently exfoliate,
GREEN ALGAE
open the pores and prep the skin for serums and moisturizers. Dr. Linkner says red algae boasts “mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), which have been shown in studies to improve skin firmness and smoothness when applied topically, as well as absorb certain wavelengths of UV light.” To make the most of these photoprotective and antioxidant effects, she recommends applying algae products in the morning.
(chlorophyta)
Considered the most antioxidant-rich of the three macroalgaes thanks to its chlorophyll pigment, green algae has been shown to repair DNA deterioration associated with long-term sun damage, says Dr. Linkner. “This group of algae is commonly known as photolysosomes, which can manipulate light to reverse UV oxidation,” she adds, “and this type of defense mechanism is now being incorporated in new-age sunscreens.”
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fibers in the skin from breaking down over time.” King adds that brown algae is known for its moisturizing benefits, too. In one study, researchers tested five different types of algae—one brown, one red and three green—to see how much water they’d absorb and then retain over time, and compared them to hyaluronic acid (HA). The low molecular–weight brown algae showed the most promising results, and even outperformed the HA.
Green algae is also loaded with brightening vitamin C, which has the power to inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme that promotes melanin production in the skin, leading to dark spots and discoloration.
KJOHANSEN/GETTY IMAGES, NONGNUCH_L/GETTYIMAGES, AZUZL/SHUTTERSTOCK, YULIYA DERBISHEVA/GETTY IMAGES
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N E W B E A U T Y. C O M
The most widely used type of macroalgae in skin care, brown algae—laminaria digitata and laminaria saccharina are two kinds you’ll often see on ingredient labels—contains phlorotannins, which absorb certain UV light to act as an antioxidant and free-radical fighter. “This is how brown algae can improve the skin’s collagen quality and also lighten the skin,” explains New York dermatologist Rita Linkner, MD. “It also has fucoidan in it, which can help with wound healing by protecting elastic
6/16/20 7:53 AM
Microalgae SPIRULINA + CHLORELLA Most modern skin-care products containing algae feature a combination of nutrient-dense macro plants and micro-organisms. Two popularized microalgae are spirulina, a cyanobacteria that is easily identified by its vibrant blue-green color, which comes from a pigment called phycocyanin; and chlorella, a green microalgae that grows in fresh water. Both have been deemed “beauty superfoods” for not only their antioxidant capability—they assist in neutralizing the free radicals and other toxins that result from skin’s exposure to UV rays and pollution—but also their
anti-inflammatory and brightening properties. Together, these make for a powerful defense against signs of aging. Algenist recently discovered a way to extract pure L-ascorbic acid (a form of vitamin C) from spirulina, which is the key ingredient—and first of its kind—in its latest product. “In our studies, this new blue algae vitamin C outperformed other tested, commonly used forms of vitamin C and other brightening ingredients used for targeting pigmentation specifically,” says Tammy Yaiser, vice president of product development for Algenist.
MARINE CORPS McNamara counts algae as one of the key reasons why she, along with other marine-centric skin-care brands, believe the ocean is our living fountain of youth. It’s considered the secret sauce in not only her products, but also La Mer’s Miracle Broth, Algenist’s patented alguronic acid and OSEA’s plant-based formulas—and the list goes on.
NNEHRING/GETTY IMAGES
$48, oseamalibu.com
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La Mer The Concentrate
$530, lamer.com
THE PEEL
THE FACE OIL
THE SERUM
THE BODY OIL OSEA Undaria Algae Body Oil
MARA Algae + Moringa Universal Face Oil $72, themarabeauty.com
Algenist Blue Algae Vitamin C Dark Spot Correcting Peel $85, sephora.com
6/16/20 7:54 AM
by Tatiana Bido
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PAPER BOAT CREATIVE/GETTY IMAGES, IMAGE USED FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY
BRIGHT
N E W B E A U T Y. C O M
040 S U M M E R – F A L L 2020
How to protect against the damaging effects of blue light when you just can’t unplug.
6/22/20 9:05 AM
Blue light, or high-energy visible (HEV) light is a component of white light—the light that comes from the sun, computer screens and other light sources—that experts point to
as a contributing factor that can cause damage to our faces. “Much has been made about the effects of blue light emitted from phones, laptops and televisions, but most blue
light exposure comes from the sun, even though everyone is constantly attached to a screen these days,” says Birmingham, AL dermatologist Corey Hartman, MD. “The reason blue light gets so much attention is that it is the most energetic visible light, and thus can result in the most biological effects in organs exposed to the sun and other light sources, which are mainly the skin and eyes.”
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6/16/20 7:50 AM
Protection Plan Blue light has a wavelength of between approximately 380 and 500 nanometers, making it one of the shortest, highest-energy wavelengths.
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N E W B E A U T Y. C O M
What Can Too Much Exposure to Blue Light Do? E Y E S T R A I N E R : “In the eyes, it can cause
eye strain and fatigue, but also damage to the retina and the inner lining of the back of the eye. This can lead to macular degeneration, which is a disease that can cause significant and permanent vision loss,” says Tampa, FL oculoplastic surgeon Jasmine Mohadjer, MD. S K I N S T R E S S O R : Increased exposure to blue light can lead to premature skin aging: “Blue light can cause inflammation and freeradical production, which can result in sun damage, wrinkles, age spots, sagging skin, and even skin cancer. Small studies show that blue light from the sun contributes to melasma, but it is not yet known if blue light from phones does as well,” adds Dr. Hartman.
S L E E P D I S R U P T O R : Believe it or not, blue light is necessary for vital functions, like regulating a healthy circadian rhythm (the body’s natural wakefulness and sleep cycle). “However, too much blue light late at night can disrupt this natural cycle, which can cause sleepless nights and fatigue during the day,” Newport Beach, CA ophthalmologist Sheri Rowen, MD says. “The UV component aids vitamin D synthesis in moderation, so therefore HEV blue light actually produces both benefits and concerns for our eyes and overall health.”
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B L I N K M O R E : Humans normally blink about 15 times per minute, but not when scrolling. “Studies show that we only blink about five to seven times in a minute while using computers and other digital screens,” says Dr. Rowen. “Blinking is the eye’s way of getting the moisture it needs on its surface.”
S W I T C H T O N I G H T M O D E : If this quick tip seems too easy, that’s because it is. Go into your settings and choose the dimmest lighting possible on your smartphone and computing devices. Using the hands-free options for phone calls can also limit face-to-screen time.
T A R G E T E D S K I N S A V E R S : While products formulated specifically with blue light in mind continue to hit the market, doctors we spoke to say the first line of defense is still a good SPF. “The best protection against skin damage remains physical sunscreens containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide and a tint like iron oxide,” says Dr. Hartman. When it comes to skin-care creams and serums, look for ones with antioxidants, which “combat matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) that result from free radicals and destroy collagen, promoting wrinkles,” he adds. “Products with ingredients like marine algae and cacao extract have also been found to be helpful protection.”
B L U E L I G H T B L O C K E R S : Limiting screen time is the best blue light blocker there is, but it can be nearly impossible with the increased demand to remain constantly “on.” To give your eyes a break without the fear of missing out, “you can use anti-reflective glasses, or computer glasses with a yellow tint, and in some cases with cataract surgery, you can get lens replacements that can block some blue light as well,” says Dr. Mohadjer.
S C R E E N S A F E G U A R D : Finally, there are very good solutions if you can’t break away from your digital devices. “Any products that carry the Eyesafe brand of certification have been found to protect from blue light damage,” says Dr. Rowen. “There are screen protection covers that have blue light filters built into the protective glass that sits on top of tablets and smartphones, just like normal screen protectors. Dell has also partnered with Eyesafe to produce new blue light–filtered displays in its laptops.”
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Prep + Shield 01 Bobbi Brown Skin Long-Wear Fluid Powder Foundation SPF 20 is perfect for Zoom calls on work-from-home days. The antioxidants in this liquid-to-powder formula help serve as a built-in blue light filter. $40, sephora.com 02 StriVectin Full Screen Broad Spectrum SPF 30 100% Mineral Sunscreen harnesses its blue light protection from French rice germ and also gives skin a boost of vitamins A, B, C and pro-vitamin D. $39, strivectin.com 03 Using a marine active extract that is rich in both proteins and exopolysaccharides, goodhabit Rescue Me Glow Potion Oil Serum creates a protective barrier over your skin as you scroll. $80, goodhabitskin.com 04 The lenses on FLOWER Blue Light Computer Glasses are treated with five layers of anti–blue light coating to absorb 40 percent of the light emitted from screens before it ever hits your eyes. $20, flowerbydrew.com
6/16/20 7:50 AM
Hello
S U N S H
I
N E
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6/18/20 6:07 PM
For decades, sunscreen application has been considered a chore, and as such, it’s become a neglected step in our routines, or, sadly, eliminated entirely. However, recent SPF advances are impressing even the biggest sunscreen skeptics, and hopefully putting an end to the many excuses we make not to protect our largest organ. “The message is finally getting through that sunscreen isn’t just meant for a day at the beach,” says New York dermatologist and president of The Skin Cancer Foundation, Deborah S. Sarnoff, MD.
by Brittany Burhop Fallon
UVA vs. UVB PHYSICAL vs. CHEMICAL
PETER CADE/GETTY IMAGES
Let’s break down the two categories: “Physical” or “mineral” sunscreens include titanium dioxide and zinc oxide and work to reflect UV rays off of the skin, whereas “chemical” sunscreens—avobenzone, octinoxate, octocrylene, octisalate, homosalate—absorb UV and convert it into heat in the skin. Oxybenzone is also part of this group, but has recently fallen out of favor due to concerns about it entering the bloodstream and acting as “a hormone disrupter, which, although there is no conclusive evidence of it's harm, has been quite upsetting to the public,” says New York dermatologist Michelle Henry, MD. “I’m not opposed to chemical SPF—it blends into the skin more seamlessly and is less likely to leave a white cast—but I do avoid oxybenzone.”
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Although the FDA is still investigating the effects of chemical sunscreen, a 2019 study tested the absorption of all six active ingredients, and each one reached the bloodstream, even after a single use. However, while experts agree more data is needed, the general consensus and FDA’s position is that these studies do not conclude these ingredients are unsafe.
The two types of UV light that are proven to contribute to skin cancer are UVA and UVB, hence the “broad-spectrum” label on modern sunscreens, which means they shield against both: Think UVA—A, for aging—and UVB—B, for burning. “UVA rays have less energy and don’t burn the skin, but they can cause skin aging and contribute to the development of melanoma,” says Saddle Brook, NJ dermatologist Dr. Fredric Haberman. A common gripe with American SPFs is that they don’t contain the same level of UVA defense as their foreign counterparts. As cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos explains, this is largely because “sunscreens sold in the United States are regulated as a drug because they are intended to help prevent sunburn and decrease risk for skin cancer; in Europe and some other countries, they’re treated as cosmetics.” Therefore, they don’t undergo the same regulatory red-tape: “The EU allows a variety of effective UVA ingredients, but the U.S. only has one good one, avobenzone, which can be tricky to stabilize,” explains Dobos. Cosmetic formulator Stephen Alain Ko says the additional UV filters—Tinosorb S, Tinosorb M, Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL— have been under review in the U.S. for years, and despite “more than decadeslong records of safety on these filters in the EU, the U.S. FDA’s efforts have stalled.”
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THE NEW ZINC While we wait for the additional UVA actives stateside, we’ll enjoy the new crop of zinc-based blockers, which have received a major upgrade as of late. “People often complain about the texture and opacity of mineral sunscreens—they can appear chalky on the skin,” Dr. Henry says. As a fix, many companies are now formulating with micronized zinc oxide particles, which don’t reflect as much visible light as standard zinc particles, resulting in more of a transparent finish. “Micronized and nano-sized zinc are being used to create both clear and tinted SPF. But, while these tints might be better for several skin tones, they are often still somewhat visible on deeper skin tones. Just like foundation, we need more shades of tinted sunscreen,” says Ko. However, tints may come with an extra perk: Dr. Sarnoff says a recent study revealed that tinted, broad-spectrum sunscreens can protect against visible light—including blue light—in addition to UV light.”
La Roche-Posay just launched an SPF 100, joining Neutrogena and other brands offering the maximum protection factor. But is more actually better? Dr. Henry says no product is 100-percent effective, but early data looks promising: “In one split-faced study comparing SPF 50 and SPF 100, researchers found that people were about 10 times more likely to burn on the SPF 50 side than the SPF 100 side.” For those who do correctly apply, The American Academy of Dermatology says SPF 30 is adequate. And for those who prefer mineral formulas, Dr. Haberman says zinc oxide between 15 and 20 percent corresponds to an SPF of up to 32.
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THE ANTIOXIDANT EFFECT One of the greatest skin threats of UV radiation is oxidative stress (free-radical damage), which leads to the breakdown of collagen and visible signs of aging. Externally, sunscreen is the first line of defense, but internally, “antioxidant-rich supplements that include polypodium leucotomos extract (PLE) and other extracts can complement topicals and provide extra support to fight free radicals,” says Franklin, TN dermatologist Jill Fichtel, MD, who recommends Heliocare Daily Use Antioxidant Formula. Derm-loved ISDIN recently launched its SUNISDIN supplements with the same inside-out protection in mind, and both products are backed by scientific research proving their efficacy.
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Body Guard Although the number of skin cancer diagnoses will rise again this year, Dr. Sarnoff says it’s not all negative news. “Some of the increase can be attributed to the people who didn’t protect their skin when they were younger, and now they’re paying the price. But, we can also credit the fact that more people are getting screened for skin cancers than ever before, which is a positive indicator that our awareness efforts are working.” Some warning signs to be on the lookout for at home: sores that don’t heal within three weeks, or that continue to itch, crust, scab or bleed; and lesions that increase in size and appear pearly, translucent, brown, black or multicolored. Cases of melanoma in the U.S. are estimated to increase by 2 percent in 2020, but as Dr. Sarnoff points out, “the good thing is that mortality rates have gone down due to more skin cancers being caught early. Melanoma deaths will actually decrease by 5.3 percent this year.”
PEOPLEIMAGES/GETTY IMAGES
Melanoma deaths will decrease by
5.3% this year
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Skin cancer can affect anyone, regardless of race, ethnicity or skin tone. According to Dr. Henry, the logic that darker skin tones don’t burn is “absolutely incorrect. My Fitzpatrick type 5–6 skin has sustained sunburns numerous times in my life. Melanin is protective, but not perfect. Patients with dark skin also develop skin cancer and often have worse outcomes that are likely due to less surveillance and suspicion for skin cancers.” Dr. Haberman adds that even though melanomas, specifically, are rare in those with dark skin, “the palms of the hands, soles of the feet and nail beds account for half of all melanomas that occur in African Americans.” These areas may be more difficult to examine at home, which is why an annual screening with a board-certified dermatologist is critical.
MODERN MOHS In skilled hands, skin cancers can be excised with a surgical technique called Mohs. The next frontier of treatment, however, involves removing the cancers with nonablative lasers, and no cutting. New York dermatologist Orit Markowitz, MD is on the leading edge of this method: “I spearheaded the use of an advancedimaging device called Optical Coherence Tomography for skin cancers, which allows me to look across skin and below skin at the depth to determine the cancer’s spread, and obtains more precise margins than Mohs surgery,” she says. “Once I’ve defined the margins, I treat the spot with several nonablative lasers to remove the skin cancer without surgery or scarring.” For most of Dr. Markowitz’s patients, one treatment does the trick, but for those with larger or deeper skin cancers, she may treat them two or three times over the course of a couple months.
THE 3 MOST COMMON TYPES OF SKIN CANCER Basal Cell Carcinoma (BCC): The most common skin cancer, BCC is almost always found on areas of excessive sun exposure, such as the face, ears, neck, scalp, shoulders and back. To protect these areas, Dr. Haberman suggests wearing sunglasses and a hat with a brim of at least 4 inches—hats with a UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) of 50+ can block 98 percent of the sun’s harmful rays. Squamous Cell Carcinoma (SCC): The second most widespread type, SCC is typically found on the face, neck, hands, arms, legs and a balding scalp, as well as the rim of the ear and the lower lip. Melanoma: While not nearly as prevalent as the former two, it is the most dangerous. Almost all melanomas can be attributed to sun damage, and in women, they are most often on the arms and legs. In men, the back, head and neck are common sites.
6/19/20 9:33 AM
SUNBLOCK
SQUAD
BEST FOR
glowy skin
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Move over matte: These trending face formulas are infused with hydrators like ceramides and hyaluronic acid to give skin a luminous sheen.
Supergoop! Glowscreen SPF 40 PA+++, $36, supergoop.com
VERSED Guards Up Daily Mineral Sunscreen SPF 35, $22, target.com
Unsun Mineral Tinted Face Sunscreen in Medium/Dark, $29, unsuncosmetics.com
EleVen by Venus Williams Unrivaled Sun Serum SPF 35, $50, credobeauty.com
bioClarity SunShady SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen, $30, bioclarity.com
Sun Bum Mineral Whipped Sunscreen Lotion SPF 30, $18, target.com
jane iredale Powder-Me SPF 30 Dry Sunscreen, $50 (includes two reďŹ lls), janeiredale.com
COOLA Makeup Setting Sunscreen Spray SPF 30, $36, sephora.com
BEST FOR
darker skin tones New clear serums and tinted zinc up the SPF shade game, catering to a broader range of skin tones than ever before.
BEST FOR
full-body coverage From sprays and lotions to milks and gels, these sunblocks deliver the UV defense our bodies need to keep burns at bay.
BEST FOR
layering over makeup Powders and setting sprays are ideal for postmakeup protection and midday touch-ups; tinted balms can keep lips shielded, too.
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6/18/20 6:07 PM
Welcome to the new world of SPF, where broad-spectrum formulas are more elegant than ever before: clear and tinted zincs have finally eliminated the “white cast” grouse, and the addition of anti-aging actives turn lotions that were once reserved for beach days into potent skin-care treatments.
Glytone Hydra Lipid UV Mineral Sunscreen SPF 40+, $36, glytone-usa.com
Urban Skin Rx SHEERGLOW Daily Defense Mineral SPF 30, $38, urbanskinrx.com
Solara Suncare Glow Getter Nutrient Boosted Daily SPF 30, $32, solarasuncare.com
Flesh Sheer Flesh Hydrating SPF 35 Serum, $32, fleshbeauty.com
Sephora Collection x Avasol Tinted Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 in Tan, $18, sephora.com
CeraVe Hydrating Sunscreen Sheer Tint SPF 30, $16, ulta.com
CōTZ Sport SPF 45 Mineral Sunscreen, $27, cotzskincare.com
Hint Reef-Safe Pineapple Sunscreen Spray SPF 30, $15, drinkhint.com
Alba Botanica Wild Mint Clear Mineral Sunscreen SPF 45, $17, albabotanica.com
La Roche-Posay Anthelios Melt-In Milk SPF 100, $25, laroche-posay.us
HABIT Nº41 SPF Mister, $30, habitskin.co
Colorescience Total Protection Color Balm SPF 50 in Berry, $29, colorescience.com
ZO Skin Health Sunscreen + Powder SPF 40, $65, zoskinhealth.com
Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Face Mist Sunscreen SPF 55, $13, amazon.com
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TULA Skincare Protect + Glow Daily Sunscreen Gel SPF 30, $36, tula.com
Australian Gold Botanical SPF 50 Tinted Face Mineral Lotion in Rich to Deep, $16, ulta.com
6/18/20 6:07 PM
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6/19/20 11:17 AM
ARE YOU BEAUTY-OBSESSED? GET MORE FROM THE BEAUTY AUTHORITY One Year (4 Issues)
JUST $29.95 ESP – GSBAD20
SAVE UP TO 42% OFF THE COVER PRICE NEWBEAUTY.COM/OFFER15
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6/19/20 11:17 AM
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54 MUSE
A-LIST
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Two women who inspire us share what inspires them
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SWISS BEAT
Valmont CEO Sophie Guillon’s product picks
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24 HOURS
The day and night skin-care routines of two beauty experts
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WAKEUP CALL
Actress Michelle Monaghan’s personal skin cancer story
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BEAUTY BREAKDOWN
Supermodel Veronica Webb’s words of wisdom on owning your beauty
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THE MOLLY SIMS EXPERIENCE
Our cover star dishes on social media, in-office treatments and more
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6/20/20 4:08 PM
“It’s important to me to be authentic.”
JOHN RUSSO; DRESS: GOOP
— Molly Sims
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6/30/20 9:36 AM
MUSE
Moon Child If Willy Wonka was into wellness, he might share some traits with Moon Juice founder Amanda Chantal Bacon, a potions and powders connoisseur, superfood chef and go-to source for everything healthy, herbal and holistic in L.A. “I have a chocolate bar every day, but my real indulgence is putting my phone away—and pizza!” —Liz Ritter
DAILY SHOW
A tonic with Sex Dust, Spirit Dust and Collagen Protect, and holding off food until 11 a.m. make up her morning routine, which also involves a “fist full of pills” from her Moon Juice line. “At night, Magnesi-Om in some water and some oil in my hair.”
OUT OF OFFICE
When we speak, the 37-year-old is “listening to Gamelan music in rainy Kauai.” RZA, Rogov and mantras also make the rotation; clinical studies, followed by a “good metaphysical read,” hit her regular reading list.
CARRY ON
Flying is also no-fuss: “I travel light, but always have LivOn Lypo-Spheric Vitamin C and raw shea butter for my lips.”
SIMPLE TERMS
MAKEUP MINIMALIST
Chantal Bacon prefers to keep her makeup routine simple, relying on three essentials for both day and night: Living Libations Lip and Cheek Tint, Westman Atelier Mascara and Saie Brow Butter.
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“I’ve been feeling less and less attached to the stuff of life and more into prioritizing experiences,” she says. “If I had to choose one ‘thing’ I’m really loving right now it’s a white shearling coat from my friends at DÔEN.”
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@amandachantalbacon
6/16/20 7:44 AM
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Nailed It She moved from Korea to America with nothing but a dream and $400 in her pocket. Since then, Jin Soon Choi has become Manhattan’s nail artist of choice, Marc Jacobs’s backstage go-to and founder of the synonymous nontoxic nail lacquer line. There is no question as to why she’s pinned as one of the hardest-working entrepreneurs in the industry. —Olivia Wohlner @jinsoonchoi
NIGHT VISION
On as many nights as possible, an at-home workout with a brisk walk on a treadmill, followed by a quick sauna, a face mask and a layer of Farmacy Honeymoon Glow AHA Resurfacing Night Serum, are on the agenda.
CLUTCH HITTERS
Making the cut as must-haves always on hand: JINsoon HyperGloss top coat, her iPhone, NARS Aragon Lip Gloss, her wallet, a jump rope, and sunglasses.
SHOW STOPPER
YUNJI KO; VELIAVIK/GETTY IMAGES; VALERY HACHE/GETTY IMAGES
GUILTY PLEASURES
“I am trying to avoid processed sweets these days,” Choi says. Her favorite midday snack, however, is frozen persimmons from Korea. “Such a treat!”
Choi says she’s “still beaming” about the Korean film Parasite winning four Oscars. “It is so original and creative. I appreciate that good film-making transcends language.”
PEER SPACE
“SeungHyun Seo is the owner of Kakaboka Salon. I’ve been going to her 2nd floor studio in the heart of K-Town on 32nd street for years, and her work is always fresh.”
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PLAYING FAVORITES
When it comes to books and beauty products, two favorites make the grade: SK-II Ultimate Revival Eye Cream and The Things You Can See Only When You Slow Down by Haemin Sunim.
6/16/20 8:04 PM
GLOBAL BEAUTY
@sophie.guillon
Swiss Beat With a 300-plus-SKU, Switzerland-based beauty company that boasts two separate perfume lines, to a schedule that involves practically living on a plane, Valmont CEO Sophie Guillon takes her results-driven, global-influenced beauty routine very seriously. —Liz Ritter
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If I had to pick one product from my line that I can’t live without, it’s the Prime Renewing Pack. It is perfect—and when you add in the collagen mask, and the Time Master Intensive Treatment, it does everything. $230, lamaisonvalmont.com
S U M M E R - F A L L 2020
Vitamin Shop For breakfast, I always have Marmite. It’s British, but the Swiss have Cenovis, which is the same. Both are delicious, healthy and full of vitamins. $12, bienmanger.com
Spa Time I like the Kempinski, of course, but I like smaller towns like Vevey. I love the Trois Couronnes. It’s only 35 minutes away, so I’ll go for the weekend with my daughter and we make it a two-day retreat: She gets a massage, I get a massage, we go shopping, and we visit the Charlie Chaplin Museum. He finished his life in Switzerland and was a customer of Valmont for a long time, so we are fans. I also like the Three Crowns in Vevey—they don’t carry Valmont, but they are so good, I forgive them.
Holy Grail I love Marvis toothpaste. It’s an Italian brand, but it’s big in Switzerland. Marvis, Marvis, Marvis. I think a lot about products I wish I would have invented and this is one of them! It’s so luxe. $10.50, bigelowchemists.com
Natural Selection On a daily basis, I care for experience, emotions and results. Looking for and trying other beauty brands is part of my routine, but I am cautious in my selection. I respect Cellcosmet for its efficacy. The brand is all about
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delivering its anti-aging promises—and I feel very close to that commitment. Another brand I like is Margy’s. It was born in and is still based out of Monte Carlo, and has thrived thanks to the vision of Margie Lombard, a Swiss
beauty expert with more than 30 years of experience. I share her level of expectation with regards to the ingredients she sources in Switzerland, and respect the way she reconciles technicity with glamour.
6/16/20 7:43 AM
Dear Valued Reader,
We’re listening. We’re learning. We’re acting. Our team has been having open and honest discussions about what we can do better; as a first step, we will be donating 20% of proceeds for all new orders of the July TestTube to The Loveland Foundation, an organization that brings opportunity and healing to communities of color, and especially Black women. Through fellowships, residency programs, listening tours, and more, the organization contributes to both the empowerment and the liberation of communities across the United States. To help support this great cause, if you aren’t a subscriber to TestTube already, this is a great time for you to join and bring awareness to this amazing foundation. We continue to be committed to fostering inviting environments that are welcoming and respectful of all individuals, customers and employees. Thank you for being a part of our community, and we look forward to doing more, together.
With Gratitude,
THE TESTTUBE TEAM
Subscribe today: TestTube.NewBeauty.com
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6/22/20 7:02 PM
P ROMOTI ON
THE TUBE
REPORT
2.
Each issue we round up our editors’ favorite products to help you discover new brands, unique formulations and key ingredients that you can find all in one place: your TestTube.
1. FrĂŠ Protect Me A moisturizer meets sunscreen meets antioxidant, this lightweight cream defends against UV rays, free-radical damage and dryness. $50, freskincare.com
3.
2. Soon Skincare Face Mask Trio Each firming and hydrating sheet mask in this three-pack transforms skin in less than 20 minutes thanks to powerhouse ingredients like niacinamide and hyaluronic acid. $62, soonskincare.com 3. Caolion Pore White Cake Pack A radiance-boosting facial in a jar that delivers deep hydration, purge pores and exfoliates with the help of fruit enzymes and Amazonian clay. $37, kuriousmall.com 4. 10 Free Chemistry Nail Color A hyper-clean, long-wearing polish packed with natural ingredients and peptides for beautiful pigment. $18, 10freechemistry.com
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PROMOTION
5. Naturally G4U Retinol Anti-Wrinkle Serum or Instant Eye Repair Serum Retinol Serum: A do-it-all serum that brightens, exfoliates and firms skin for a glowy effect. Eye Serum: A superhydrating serum that targets the skin below the lower lids to restore lost volume. $19.99 each, ulta.com 6. Bawdy Squeeze It Citrus Butt Mask A cheeky take on skin care! This citrus-scented sheet mask cares for the skin on your behind by brightening, hydrating and plumping. $9, ulta.com
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5.
7. Supersmile New Generation 45° Toothbrush & Extra Whitening System An on-the-go kit with Supersmile’s most advanced whitening system—a professional whitening toothpaste and professional whitening accelerator—that work together to eliminate surface stains, plus a patented toothbrush with 45 degree–angled bristles for maximum impact. Toothbrush: $9; System: $12, supersmile.com 8. René Furterer Style Vegetal Texture Spray A lightweight, dry styling spray with vitamin B5 that gives new life to tired tresses without leaving behind residue. $34, renefurtererusa.com
8.
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24 H O U R S
Skin Smarts Two beauty gurus share their day and night regimens for a flawless complexion. —Brittany Burhop Fallon
MORNING ROUTINE
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@deepica
Deepica Mutyala, founder and CEO of Live Tinted ABOUT ME MY SKIN-CARE PHILOSOPHY
Take it back to your roots. I’ve learned that moms are always right. I now find myself doing things I used to see my mother doing—sometimes old-school becomes new-school. I also love doing treatments I learned from her, like making DIY turmeric masks.
01 The first thing I do is wash my face with Summer Fridays Super Amino Gel Cleanser, which is gentle enough for every day. $38, sephora.com 02 Vitamin C serum is also a must for my mornings. Tatcha Violet-C Brightening Serum has AHAs [alphahydroxy acids] that work with the vitamin C to help even out my skin tone. $88, tatcha.com 03 Next, I apply Cetaphil Moisturizing Lotion, which reminds me of my mom, and I truly think it has the performance of super high-end creams. $8, target.com 04 I’m so impressed with the innovation behind Biossance Squalane + Zinc Sheer Mineral Sunscreen. To have a mineral SPF that doesn’t leave behind a distinct gray overcast on my skin is unheard of. And the water lily and squalane in it make me look super glowy, too. $30, biossance.com
EVENING ROUTINE
MY BIGGEST SKIN CONCERNS
My skin has been extremely dry lately, and I love the look of dewy, glowing skin. I’ve been going extra hard with hydrating products because of that. Hyaluronic acid– and squalanefilled products are a must. MY FACIAL RITUAL
I do monthly facials with my friend Yoli (a Tatcha facialist)— she always brings out that extra glow in my skin.
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01 Tatcha Pure One Step Camellia Cleansing Oil is my favorite way to remove all of my makeup. $48, tatcha.com 02 After cleansing, I spray on Ranavat Jasmine Tonique. I love that this brand is inspired by India—it smells like jasmine and reminds me of home. $40, ranavatbotanics.com 03 For serum, I like Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair, which is packed with antioxidants and hyaluronic acid. Essentially, it’s like a tall glass of water for my skin. $103, esteelauder.com 04 Shiseido Benefiance Wrinkle Smoothing Cream gives my under-eyes instant brightness. When I wake up the next day, I still see the difference. $70, shiseido.com 05 Then I apply Elemis Superfood Night Cream. Its Supergrain Complex really penetrates my skin barrier, so I wake up with the softest, plumpest skin. $55, elemis.com 06 MDNA Skin The Rose Mist is the finest mist you can find! It seals everything in and doubles as aromatherapy before bed. $90, mdnaskin.us
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“Protect with sunscreen, nourish with topicals, exfoliate with chemical peels and stimulate with lasers.”
MORNING ROUTINE @drzenovia
Newport Beach, CA dermatologist Zenovia Gabriel, MD ABOUT ME MY SKIN-CARE PHILOSOPHY
It’s simple and based on the science of the epidermis: Protect with sunscreen, nourish with topicals, exfoliate with chemical peels and stimulate with lasers. MY BIGGEST SKIN CONCERNS
Uneven skin tone: brown spots and blotchiness; and dull, dry skin. My goal is to make it smooth and dewy. MY ANNUAL IN-OFFICE REGIMEN
01 Every morning in the shower, I wash my face with CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser, which is an inexpensive option to effectively cleanse without stripping my skin. $11, target.com
02 Then I apply Revision Skincare C+ Correcting Complex 30% to help reduce brown spots. Vitamin C is a great antioxidant to absorb those nasty free radicals our skin creates due to UV exposure. $160, revisionskincare.com 03 Revaleskin Night Cream is technically a night cream, but I like to use it as a daily moisturizer, as it contains coffeeberry, a potent antioxidant. $132, dermstore.com 04 Lastly, sunscreen, which is the most important step. I apply Eucerin Daily Protection Face Lotion with SPF 30 on my face, neck and chest, as well as my arms when they’re exposed. It’s not sticky or heavily scented, and it has effective broad-spectrum protection with zinc and titanium dioxide without leaving behind white residue. $10.50, cvs.com
EVENING ROUTINE
I do neurotoxins three times a year, LaseMD once a year—it’s like a buff and shine, and I love the take-home serum—a Jessner chemical peel once a year that peels my skin to dewiness, and a HydraFacial with microcurrent treatment for special occasions.
01 Before bed, I wash my face with SENTÉ Exfoliating Cleanser—it’s a mild, gentle exfoliant that’s not too harsh—and a “buff puff,” an old-fashioned sponge. $46, sentelabs.com 02 Three times a week, I use NeoStrata Glycolic Renewal Serum before applying tretinoin. The glycolic acid strips down the dead layer of the epidermis, allowing my products to absorb better. $78, neostrata.com
03 Next I apply prescription Obagi Tretinoin Cream 0.1%. A pea-size amount covers my entire face, including my lower eyelids, and helps preserve collagen and enhance cell turnover. obagi.com 04 Then I use SENTÉ Dermal Repair Cream, a scientifically effective formula with HSA (Heparan Sulfate Analog) to help protect collagen and elastin. $158, sentelabs.com 05 Under my eyes, I apply Lifeline Skin Care Eye Firming Complex, which features stem cell technology to help tighten and hydrate. I swipe any excess cream over my cheeks by my accordion lines. $89, dermstore.com 06 Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel goes on top—it hydrates and plumps without being oily. $23.50, cvs.com 07 Finally, I spritz on Avène Thermal Spring Water to seal in the humectants. I often use it at the end of my morning regimen, too. Water is the basis of skin hydration, healing and plumpness. $18.50, aveneusa.com
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MICHELLE MONAGHAN B Y B R I T TA N Y B U R H O P FA L L O N
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MICHELLE MONAGHAN (2)
WAKEUP CALL:
6/18/20 11:50 AM
For most of Michelle Monaghan’s life, sunscreen wasn’t something she reached for until after her skin had burned. That is, until she was diagnosed with malignant melanoma. Here, the 44-year-old actress and mother of two shares her battle with skin cancer and advocates to remove the stigma surrounding the disease, and sun protection as a whole.
W H AT S H O C K E D YO U M O S T ABOUT GOING THROUGH THIS EXPERIENCE? H OW D I D YO U D I S C OV E R YO U H A D S K I N CA N C E R ? My husband was actually the one who noticed the mole first—on my lower left calf. He’s Australian, and Down Under they have a high rate of skin cancer. He was well-educated, thank goodness, on the appearance of abnormal-looking moles. And upon his insistence, I went to see a dermatologist, where I had a biopsy.
W H AT T Y P E O F S K I N C A N C E R WA S I T ? It was diagnosed as malignant melanoma, and fortunately, we caught it at an early stage. My doctor excised the mole and surrounding area, and thankfully, no other treatment was necessary. My husband sweetly credits himself as saving my life. I can’t argue with that!
W H AT WA S YO U R R E L AT I O N S H I P W I T H SUNSCREEN PRIOR TO YO U R D I AG N OS I S? Prior to my skin cancer, I didn’t pay attention to sunblock or sun protection at all. Sadly, only after I would get burned nearly every summer, would I start to think to apply it. I spent a lot of time outdoors as a child and teen—I’m even guilty of going to a tanning salon for prom! Please, please don’t make that mistake. I wish I could turn back time and be more educated about the potential life-saving merits of wearing sunscreen on a daily basis. Today, I practice important sun safety habits like wearing hats and sunglasses, applying sunscreen every day and then reapplying every two hours, and most importantly, visiting my dermatologist for routine health exams. We should never underestimate the power of prevention!
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I’m stunned at how common skin cancer is, yet how uninformed or unaffected people are about it. In fact, skin cancer is the most common cancer in the U.S. with 1 in every 5 Americans diagnosed in their lifetime. Yet only 1 in 10 Americans wear sunscreen on a daily basis, and nearly half of Americans don’t wear it at all. The need to educate people on the importance of daily sunscreen use has never been greater. This disease is largely preventable, and it starts with making a few small changes. I believe that by being vocal about our experiences and encouraging our friends and families to take sun protection seriously, we can make an impact and see these stats change for the better.
W H AT A R E YO U R FAV O R I T E S U N S C R E E N S ? A common misconception out there is that applying sunscreen is an extra step people don’t have time for. However, if you find the right sunscreen, it will actually eliminate steps in your skincare routine. For my face, I love EltaMD UV Physical Broad-Spectrum SPF 41 [Monaghan has partnered with the brand to raise awareness of sun safety], which I apply after my serums as my third and final step. It also serves as my moisturizer, and it’s lightly tinted, so it hides imperfections. For my body, I like a high SPF, as I spend a lot of time outside, especially with two young kids. I don’t mess around with exposed skin, but I also don’t like the pasty look some sunblocks give me, so I use EltaMD UV Active Broad-Spectrum SPF 50+. It gives transparent coverage and dries quickly. I also always try to reapply every few hours—it makes a big difference.
W H Y I S I T I M P O R TA N T TO YO U TO S P E A K O U T ABOUT SUN SAFETY? I’d like for there not to be a stigma surrounding skin cancer and sun protection. I don’t want people to just settle for having something removed when it’s too late. I want them to be proactive and not reactive with their skin health. Prevention is key, and it starts with instilling healthy habits and a good routine for our children. We should be able to have fun in the sun with no regrets!
EltaMD UV Active Broad-Spectrum SPF 50+ ($59) and UV Physical BroadSpectrum SPF 41 ($33), dermstore.com
6/16/20 12:13 PM
BEAUTY BREAKDOWN WITH VERONICA WEBB
by Elizabeth Ritter
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6/30/20 9:38 AM
ON OWNING YOUR AGE...
“Young women start to panic about turning 18, then 21, and by 30, instead of looking forward to the heightened powers and strength that come with age. That is where the beauty lies.”
@STANDAMERHOUT
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Known for being one of the first African-American supermodels to break barriers in the beauty and fashion industries, Veronica Webb’s latest endeavor, lifestyle blog Webb on the Fly is taking a stance on ageism by encouraging women to “Own Your Age. Own Your Beauty. Own Your Power.” It’s a tagline the 55-year-old takes seriously: “Ageism is so ingrained in our society, especially for women. When we look in the mirror, it’s like we see a ‘sell by date’ on our foreheads,” she says. “It’s important to never push away a compliment, apologize for your age or disparage yourself for growing older.”
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It’s a subject I’m really passionate about. Menopause is very impactful on our health and beauty, and we don’t talk about it nearly enough. I was born when my mother was in menopause, which I only figured out later. But we never had that discussion. She was a nurse in the army who read Scientific American religiously, and my sister is a doctor, and none of us ever had the discussion—until I was basically blindsided by perimenopausal symptoms. So that gives you a good idea of how people just don’t talk about it. And then you have my kids, who are A.P. Bio students, doing their best in school and getting national awards. School has taught them everything about the reproductive cycle and sexuality studies with orientation, preference and gender, but menopause is literally glossed over. With all this expensive and comprehensive education they have, when I started to talk to my girls about menopause, they both looked at me and were like, “fake news, mom.” Menopause is really like a second adolescence; it’s like a second puberty for your body. From your mood and weight gain to blemishes and discolorations, the changes are so rapid and unpredictable that I feel like I’m going through a lot of what my kids are going through as teens. Menopausal brain fog is a blessing and a curse when you live in a house full of teens. Everything has to be adjusted in your self-care, from both a topical and an internal perspective. Brain health, diet and exercise are the Holy Trinity in this new phase of life.
6/19/20 11:11 AM
ON OWNING YOUR BEAUTY... We all have different facets to our beauty. It’s important to recognize and maximize your best features, educating yourself on how to not only master your best, but also your most challenging beauty issues. When you think about the modeling industry, it’s sort of a double-edged sword with both health and beauty, especially during the time when I started in the ‘80s and ‘90s. It was the height of the supermodel, that Victoria’s Secret body. You’re working really hard to fit yourself into this tight, physical ideal. It’s like ballet or football, or any display profession where you have to want it so badly and love it so much. Modeling does not make you feel beautiful, for the most part, because models are constantly being sized up by the clients and told what is “wrong” with them. If you fall into the trap of comparing yourself to others, it’s a one way trip to the kingdom of insecurity. Nothing is sadder to me than entering a social situation where women compliment each other by comparing looks or putting themselves down.
ON OWNING YOUR POWER... In the modeling industry, young women start to panic about turning 18, then 21, and by 30, they think they’re facing extinction instead of looking forward to the heightened powers and strength that come with age. That is where the beauty lies. Of course, I didn’t always get that. It’s taken me years to understand, which I guess it does for everyone, especially women. Our bodies are these marvelous machines that are built to change. We change every 15 days. We ovulate, our hormones completely change, we have a cycle. Even our bodies expand so that we can make people. We are built for change. We are superhuman beings. Listen, I want to grow old, but it’s a real commitment to remain as strong as possible.
ON THE SELF-CARE CONNECTION...
One of the things that I think has been the most helpful for me was early training in ballet, mainly because there’s a bigger goal that goes beyond how you look. When I first got into the modeling industry, I had to take my workouts to a whole other level, but it was all external, it was all aesthetic. When I went back to my roots and found workouts that have a culture and a purpose to them—the ones where you can get better at as the years go on like Tai Chi, dance and yoga—I started to feel a lot better about myself, and also the way I looked. Then, when I layer in nutrition that is practical for my life, that helps me tremendously.
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@WEBBONTHEFLY.COM; @SOPHIEELGORT
The amazing thing about my mom was that she took care of everybody. She was the head nurse at the emergency room, and mentored hundreds of women. But, along with my father, she had little to no time for self-care. She grew up on a farm, so she knew everything about natural beauty and probably had about five cosmetics growing up, all of which you could pronounce every ingredient without having to sound it out. She never fell prey to anything like cancer or blood diseases or anything like that, but not having the time to exercise, to do the internal self-care—that, in the end, was her downfall. I think for women, most of us pride ourselves on being caretakers, which is why health care is dominated by women on every level. We pride ourselves on being doers, but we forget to do for ourselves.
6/19/20 11:11 AM
“There are so many options out there if you want them—Botox, cosmetic surgery, the like. When you do what is authentic to you, you can’t go wrong.”
ON LETTING YOUR BEAUTY BREATHE... I’m a mom of biracial kids, so it’s important for me to let them create and let their “beauty breathe.” We all have these pet peeves about our bodies. Our skin is too light or dark, we’ve got a belly, we’ve got this, we’ve got that...or my hair is too curly or too straight or whatever it may be. I’ve raised my girls to be conceited in a healthy way because life has a way of knocking women down, and that starts with our looks. The biggest thing for me is that I try to never attack a part of myself. More like, “Let me breathe into what this is.” Because if I don’t like something, it probably has more to do with the fact that I’m neglecting it than there’s actually something wrong with it.
@WEBBONTHEFLY.COM
BEAUTY TO ME IS... Beauty is my inheritance, and also my legacy. When I feel the best about myself is when I see my parents in my face and in my body. When I look down and I see that I have my mother’s hands, my dad’s legs, my mom’s face, my dad’s nose—it’s a gift. Beauty to me is appreciating your own gifts building strength and knowing that it’s your inheritance and your legacy and your wealth. I think the most beautiful women in the world are the women who take care of their bodies. There are certain things that stop us in our tracks, right? You’re doing your sit-ups, you’re eating right, you’re doing your runs, but you can’t lose that extra weight from the belly, back or thighs. I’ve been there. Utmost respect goes out to the
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doctors and the aestheticians who tell you, “Please eliminate and please add this before you come to me for whatever service it is that you want, so you know that it’s really you who’s in control of changing this.“ Once we give up our power to use our amazing, transformative bodies that can do so much, then we lose everything. Then you’re not letting your beauty breathe, you’re not using your gifts and you’re not passing along the best you to those around you. And there are so many options out there if you want them—Botox, cosmetic surgery, the like. When you do what is authentic to you, you can’t go wrong. For me, it’s about staying neck and neck with time—not turning back the clock.
6/19/20 11:11 AM
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The model-actress and unofficial realist person on social media talks homeschooling hiccups, good energy and her largerthan-life love of beauty.
Photography by John Russo Makeup: Spencer Barnes for EA; Hair: Emily Hedicke; Styling: Sonja Christensen at Forward Artists; Sweater: Joie; Shorts: One Teaspoon; Earrings: Anita Ko
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6/25/20 2:23 PM
by Elizabeth Ritter
EXPERIENCE Meet the utterly funny, wine-drinking, “justgraduated from first grade homeschool” Molly Sims: The multitasking, multimasking mom-ofthree is, self-admittedly, “losing it a bit” as she holds down the fort during stay-at-home—and she’s sharing it all on social media. There are a lot of interruptions (one video shows her youngest shouting for help from the bathroom as Molly takes a moment to read a magazine), a lot of proclamations (she officially announces her resignation from dinner duty), and a whole lot of laugh-out-loud parenting hacks (she enlisted her entire family to create a makeshift red carpet, complete with paparazzi, for The Wrong Missy movie premiere).
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6/23/20 4:40 PM
“Embrace what you have, be thankful and be grateful.” NB60_CoverStory_MollySims.indd 70
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She was my best friend. I hope that I can be the same to my daughter and my children. I think a lot about moments we had together—and I treasure those memories so much. I find myself asking, “What would she have done? What would she have said?” I hope I’ll always have that. She put so many traditions into my life—the Tooth Fairy, Santa Claus, the Easter Bunny, baking cookies, talking. She would talk about anything. She was very Southern in that way, probably the most positive woman I’ve ever met. But you talk about making lemonade out of lemons. She was always that woman who was glass half-full. She was also very into accountability. I remember her getting up and walking four miles and we would ask, “What is she doing down out there in the street?” Then she’d be doing her Jane Fonda exercises on the chair. That mimics exactly what I do now when I work out. And her love for castor oil was like nothing you’ve ever seen.
And then there is the serious: While some celebrities won’t get much sympathy for socialdistancing in their sprawling mansions, Sims has been dealing with the death of her mother, who passed away in late April. Understandably, the subject is still raw for the 47-year-old to speak about without getting emotional. “It’s been hard. Very, very hard,” she says. “She was such a big force in my life. It’s funny, we talk about me loving beauty, but she really loved it. She loved makeup and hair products and clothes. She loved seeing a beautiful flower. She just loved beauty. She was such a positive, force of light in my life.” It’s that same positivity that Sims says has been propelling her during the time at home. “My motto is ‘Be a nice human today.’ You realize when you lose a family member that life is so short. We say it all the time, but it really is. Embrace what you have, be thankful and be grateful. Be funny. Be kind. With everything that’s going on right now, why wouldn’t you be?” 01
DRESS: LELA ROSE
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People got to see you be funny in The Wrong Missy on Netflix. Were you surprised by how much buzz it got?
Is that where you get your love of beauty?
I’m a big proponent, through my mother, of self-care and taking care of my skin. I enjoy it. I love products. I love feeling good. I’ve come a long way since my modeling days—I always wanted to look good, but now I also want to be healthy, too. It’s been a real mission of mine to figure out what works for me, and what doesn’t. Over the past five or six years, I’ve had bad hyperpigmentation. My skin was splotchy and I kept overdoing it and underdoing it, and using too many products or not enough products. I definitely have had my share of trying to find that balance.
You have been no-holdsbarred on Instagram. Has it given you some solace during this time? I lead with humor. Many people don’t get to see that side of me. It’s also important to me to be authentic. I may live a certain life, but I’m just like you. I’m still changing diapers, I’m still wiping booties, I’m still doing the things that everyone else is doing. I think I decided I’m going to show it, and who cares if people judge me? Who cares if people don’t like that I’m making brownies for breakfast? We’re all going through this together. I know some people look at me and think, “I could never be her,” but, likewise, I could never be you. Everyone is always comparing themselves to one another. It’s a bad road.
And that all happened right when your mother passed away…
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And you’ve also been working with some high-tech brands.
Yes. I’m working with SoME Skincare [Sims is an ambassador for the brand], and it’s great. That’s definitely something I got on early, the whole PRP thing. I’m a firm believer in it, and it’s something that really works for me. It’s made a big difference in my skin, it really has. It hydrates, I feel plumped, and it gives me that really beautiful glow.
I couldn’t believe it. Almost 70 million people have watched it! I love David Spade, I love [director] Tyler Spindel. When Adam Sandler asked me to do it, at first I said, “I don’t know. I haven’t acted in a while.” But I really loved it. I love me some Spade.
6/21/20 7:16 PM
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How do you pass along that message to your kids? Well, we recently graduated from the first grade. It was a big jump for us. I could see my son’s confidence, in his reading in particular. It wasn’t that he wasn’t going to get there—we all end up getting there—but it’s how we get there and what attitude we get there with that matters. We worked. We talked a lot about athletes. We talked about Kobe Bryant and LeBron James. We talked about Federer and Messi. We talked about how good things come for those who work hard. We also changed how we phrase things. Instead of saying, “I have to do my homework,” we tried saying, “I get to do my homework.” I think when your kids use that kind of verbiage, it can have a positive effect. It’s how I embrace it.
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You’re also diligent about working out, which you post on social media. It makes me feel better. I need it. I need it for my head. I need it for my spirituality. I’ve learned that 30 minutes, 40 minutes, that’s a lot, and that’s all I need. I always talk to women about weight and those five pounds, and getting on and getting off the train. You can’t spend your life dieting. If you get off, you have a cheat day, you can get right back on—or don’t, and take a week off. You don’t gain 50 pounds overnight. I had such swings because I got pregnant, I had a thyroid problem and I gained 83 pounds. That affects you mentally and physically, and that’s a tough amount of weight to lose. It’s the choo-choo train. It’s a little bit by a little bit. The days are long, but the years are short. It might seem long that you’re going little bit by little bit and taking care of yourself, but you’ll wake up one day and ask yourself, “Wow. What happened? Those years are short. Why didn’t I pay attention?”
I take it you weren’t always like that? That’s the difference in starting out and really knowing what you’re doing. At the one point, you’re not going to let someone say, “You’re too fat, you’re too skinny, you’re too black, you’re too white, you’re too blond, you’re too whatever.” It’s never enough. When I first went into acting, I actually said, “Don’t worry about giving me feedback.” Everyone in the world had already told me everything that was wrong with me, so I was all set.
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I get up about 30 minutes before everyone else. That’s really my moment, even if it’s just sitting there with a cup of coffee. I light a candle, I make a cup of coffee and I make two bottles for the kids. In those 15 or 20 minutes, I’m quiet, and you know me, I’m never quiet. It’s actually a really good time. When I can’t have those minutes, I miss them.
You’ve talked in the past about in-office treatments. What are you getting done first when you can go back to the dermatologist? I’m dying to go! I don’t know what I want to do first, but I want to do everything—literally, everything. I had just started to do some body treatments, some laser hair removal and some Emsculpt. I’ve heard all the IPLs are really good, and I want to do baby Fraxel soon. But, seriously, I’m up for anything! Tell me everything! Let me try everything! That’s how I am in life, with my kids, with my family, with the role in the movie. I try to lead with positivity and happiness. It’s funny, people always say, “You have such good energy.” I think it’s really important. I refuse to work with anybody who I feel like I’m going to have a bad day with. If they’re going to bring bad energy, if they’re not a good, soulful person, I’m not really interested. That’s definitely been a part of my life I’ve taken control of.
Being positive is obviously important to you. How have you kept that mindset over the past couple of months?
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How do you pay attention? Being positive is a big part of it. I always say to my friends, “Let’s take the happiness pill.” With everything happening in the world at the moment, especially. It might not directly affect me, but as someone said to me the other day, you have to look at it like: “Is your house burning down? No, but their house is burning down, so I’m going to help them right now. It doesn’t mean I don’t care about your house.” We all have to care for one another and be good—be a good human, be inclusive. It’s important. That’s the biggest thing my mom taught me. She didn’t care if you were red, white, green or yellow. It’s a hard moment and it’s a hard movement, but we’re in a good place. I really feel like positive changes are going to happen.
6/21/20 7:16 PM
T-SHIRT: J.CREW; JEANS: L’AGENCE; NECKLACE: ANITA KO
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“I try to lead with positivity and happiness.” 6/20/20 4:01 PM
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S U M M E R – F A L L 2020
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N E W B E A U T Y. C O M
GRASS ROOTS
An inside look at how “it” ingredient CBD is being used in hair care
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COLOR SAVIORS
How to protect your dyed strands from the effects of a cruel summer
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HAIR MAKEOVERS
We answer all of your questions about how to treat thinning hair with both at-home and in-office options
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6/18/20 10:06 AM
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50%
of women will experience noticeable hair loss. The most significant cause of hair loss in women is femalepattern hair loss (FPHL), which affects some 30 million women in the United States Source: Cleveland Clinic
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6/17/20 8:38 PM
GRASS ROOTS KEY INGREDIENT
Last year saw the rise of CBD skin care—everything from body lotion to face masks were infused with the hemp extract to add calming and anti-inflammatory benefits. Now, the “it” ingredient is carving out space in the hair care, too. Here’s why.
Grass Roots
Last year saw the rise of CBD skin care: Everything from body lotion to facial moisturizer by Brittany Burhop Fallon became infused with the hemp extract to add calming and anti-inflammatory benefits. Now, the “it” ingredient is carving out space in the hair-care arena too. Here’s why. —Brittany Burhop Fallon
H OW I T WO R KS
“Recent studies have shown that CB1 and CB2 have endogenous ligands on both the scalp and the hair, which suggests that the scalp and the hair have their own endocannabinoid system,” New York dermatologist Matthew Lin, MD says. “By acting on these ligands, CBD can reduce inflammatory cytokines on the scalp, and potentially improve conditions like dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, eczema, and itchy, flaky scalp.”
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PEOPLEIMAGES/GETTY IMAGES, IMAGE USED FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY
Our bodies house a complex endocannabinoid system that helps regulate the daily function of our skin and other organs. When applied topically, CBD—a nonpyschoactive cannabinoid from the cannabis plant—interacts with this system and receptor sites on the skin (CB1 and CB2), helping to reduce any inflammation and irritation.
6/18/20 11:52 AM
T H E B E N E F I TS While more research is needed to further evaluate the therapeutic effects of topical CBD on the scalp and hair in the form of shampoos, masks, oils and more, there is a band of anecdotal evidence supporting them. “CBD is rich with many vitamins and essential fatty acids that help form collagen, which nourishes scalp tissue,” says Kevin Wachs, founder and CEO of Earthly Body, the parent company of CBD hair-care brand Emera. “It also contains all 21 known amino acids, including tyrosine, which helps maintain natural hair color.”
THE HAIR G ROW T H D E BAT E One of the more hotly disputed topics is whether or not CBD can assist in growing hair and slowing thinning, which is something Wachs and other brand leaders, such as Dan Hodgdon, founder and CEO of Vegamour, advocate. “CBD helps promote scalp health in two ways: “First, it reduces inflammation around the hair follicles, and inflammation can exacerbate hair loss. Second, CBD helps promote circulation, and healthy hair growth requires healthy circulation,” explains Hodgdon. “Our GRO+ Serum features micro-encapsulated CBD, which means the molecules are small enough to penetrate deep into the scalp.”
Troy, MI plastic surgeon and holistic medicine expert Anthony Youn, MD counts hydrating and antioxidant properties as other CBD perks. “Hemp oils provide good hydration for the hair, hair follicles and scalp; the antioxidants fight free radicals and reduce inflammation and oxidation,” Dr. Youn explains. Dr. Lin says some of his patients with “dry and/or frizzy hair like CBD shampoos and hair oils” for the hydrating factor, but he sees these products being most useful for treating dandruff and itchy, flaky scalp. Ashley Lewis, cofounder of CBD e-tailer Fleur Marché, says hemp oil may help those who braid or pull their hair consistently and have sore, itchy scalps. “Anecdotally, users have reported a soothing effect on an inflamed scalp, and this seems consistent with the benefits of CBD that have been more widely studied for skin care.”
Despite the need for more research and large-scale, peer-reviewed studies on the subject, Denver dermatologist Joel L. Cohen, MD says “we know there are CBD receptors in scalp hair follicular structures, and although we don’t yet have clear knowledge of their function upon activation, they could inhibit hair growth.” Dr. Youn agrees, but suggests that we maintain realistic expectations: “CBD is one of the hottest ingredients for skin and hair today, but as occurs with many trendy ingredients, the therapeutic claims can often be exaggerated.”
According to Dr. Lin, hemp-based hair care is generally safe and suitable for everyone, but “always read the ingredient label, as many of these products also contain essential oils that may be sensitizing for some.”
THE KIT From soothing an itchy scalp to rejuvenating sparse strands, these are our top hemp hair helpers.
CAPPI THOMPSON/GETTY IMAGES
01 EMERA Nourishing CBD Scalp Therapy $30, emerahaircare.com 02. Vegamour GRO+ Advanced Hair Serum $58, vegamour.com 03. Lab to Beauty The Nourishing Shampoo $46, labtobeauty.com 04. Philip B. CBD Scalp + Body Oil $95, philipb.com 05. Hempz Seeing Is Be Leave-In Ultra Hydrating Conditioning Mist $15, hempz.com
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6/16/20 7:49 AM
by Tatiana Bido
How to shield your strands from a cruel summer. NB60_HAIR_ColorSaviors.indd 78
During the warmer months, we tend to go outdoors and spend more time with Mother Nature, but it’s also a time filled with hidden aggressors that can make it difficult to maintain beautiful, vibrant hair color. Follow these simple steps from the pros to keep color from fading fast.
6/18/20 8:37 PM
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Strand Strippers
Chlorine and saltwater deplete hair’s natural oils, which cause split ends and strip away shine and vibrancy, creating a lackluster color. Aura Friedman, lead color specialist at Sally Hershberger Salon, says you can also thank UV rays for accelerating fading because they break down chemical bonds in the dyes, causing them to vanish at a faster pace.
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Celebrity hair colorist Chad Kenyon says summertime hair habits can start to take a toll on hair’s tint. “When we spend more time in the sun, it causes us to perspire more, and in turn, we tend to shower, shampoo and style more frequently. This is one of the number-one reasons hair color starts to fade.”
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Kenyon explains that during the summer, it’s even more important to take a closer look at the label on your hair-care products. “Use a great sulfate-free shampoo,” he says. “Sulfates are essentially detergents that overwash and strip the hair. This process also opens the cuticle, which brings out underlying brassy tones and can also make strands tangle more easily.”
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“The most important thing is to either stay out of the sun entirely, or get a hat to cover up,” Friedman says. Look for a sun-protection hat made of fabric and materials with a UPF50+ protection, a factor similar to SPF in sunscreens that reflects the sun’s rays.
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Protect + Swim “Spray-on sunblocks can do a good job of protecting the scalp and hair, but they really don’t prevent color fading, which by the way isn’t always the worst thing,” says Friedman. “A little bit of fading is OK.” If you know you’re going to spend a lot of time in both the sun and water, Friedman recommends prepping strands beforehand to make it harder for the saltwater, chlorine or soft water to penetrate the hair shaft. “You can use a regular conditioner or a leave-in one and mix it with water in a spray bottle to mist your hair throughout the day. If there is one more barrier coating your hair, it’s going to protect it from the sun and from absorbing the water. Right now, I’m using a treatment called KhairPep, which I can do as an in-salon treatment, but it can also be used as a leave-in to shield hair from the sun.”
“The most important thing is to stay out of the sun entirely.” —Aura Friedman STEP
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Gloss + Tone
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To get ahead of color fading, Kenyon says to start with a formula that isn’t intended to stay for long. “Permanent hair color never really fades away completely,” he explains, “yet the tonality may fade into something less desirable and brassy.” Instead, Kenyon recommends trying a demi-permanent hair color like a gloss or toner. While these types of dyes will completely fade over time, he says the trade-off is that there won’t be a line of demarcation when the hair grows back in, making it a more gradual color shift as the summer ends, rather than a total washout.
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Hue Helpers 01 Its tropical-peachy scent makes it an instant summer staple, but Fekkai Technician Color Shampoo also combats the color-depleting effects of solar exposure and environmental aggressors. $20, target.com 02 Protect strands against further heat exposure with Moroccanoil Smart Styling Infrared Hair Dryer, which uses infrared light to reduce thermal damage and lock in moisture. $180, moroccanoil.com 03 Virtue Labs Color Revival Kit fights fading, boosts color and restores shine with a concentrated dose of Alpha Keratin 60ku. $35, virtuelabs.com 04 The UV-blocking beta-carotene in Playa Endless Summer Spray shields both scalp and strands from the sun’s harmful rays. $24, playabeauty.com 05 Stop sun damage from wreaking havoc on fresh, new hair color with Mott50 Penelope Wide Brim Toyo Fedora with UPF50+. $89, mott50.com
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HAIR MAKE OVERS There’s no denying the power of a fantastic haircut or new color. When we need a change, nothing
reframes our outlook—and our face, literally—quite like chopping off a few inches, getting bangs, brightening up with highlights, or fully shifting our overall shade.
But while scissors and dye can make a huge difference, neither compares to the makeover that comes from treatments that address hair loss and thinning.
Here, we answer all of your questions about the vast hair growth options we have available today, including those found in bottles, under hats, and at the hands of dermatologists and surgeons.
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Q: Can supplements really help my thinning hair grow in thicker? According to Beverly Hills, CA facial plastic surgeon Natalie H. Attenello, MD, often the first step someone takes when they notice a change in the density of their hair is nonprescription: “Oral supplements are helpful to ensure the overall health and quality of the scalp and hair follicles,” she says. “The health of the scalp impacts the health of the hair follicle, as the scalp is the essentially the soil that nourishes the hair follicle.”
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Most supplements aimed at hair growth and thickness will contain a combination of biotin, folic acid, niacin, zinc, iron, and vitamins A, C, D and E. Biotin, for example, has been proven to help with hair growth, according to Studio City, CA dermatologist Gene Rubinstein, MD. However, “in general, only people with an actual deficiency of biotin will see new growth,” he says, noting that this is why the most promising supplements contain several well-tested vitamins and minerals. New York dermatologist Doris Day, MD says, “The two supplements with the best data I have seen are Nutrafol and Viviscal.”
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Prescription oral medication may be an option for some, but which drug is prescribed often hinges on the sex of the patient. “For men, an oral medication like Finasteride, sold under the brand names Proscar and Propecia, is part of the first line of defense against hair loss,” says Palo Alto, CA facial plastic surgeon Sachin S. Parikh, MD. “Finasteride has been shown to slow hair loss and provide approximately a 30-percent improvement after six months of treatment.” For women with androgenetic alopecia or female pattern baldness, Dr. Parikh says anti-androgens like spironolactone and oral contraceptives can be used for treatment by slowing down androgen (DHT) production in the adrenal glands and ovaries, which then slows down the rate of hair loss.
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Q:
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I hear a lot about Rogaine for men, but does it also work for women? There’s a reason Rogaine is a household name: Its active ingredient, minoxidil, is the only FDA-approved topical treatment for hair loss. “The 5-percent concentration is approved for both men and women,” says Dr. Day. “The only difference is that men need to use it twice a day, and women only need to use it once.” Minoxidil is applied directly to the scalp and can help slow hair loss, as well as regrow hair. “It comes in a foam or solution form, is usually effective for women with thinning hair, and can used to help with male pattern baldness,” says Dr. Parikh. Although other topicals have yet to receive FDA approval, doctors do see some potential in ingredients other than minoxidil. “There are also shampoos, conditioners and serums made by the same companies that make Viviscal and HairMedica that have been clinically proven to combat hair loss,” Dr. Parikh says. “By rubbing the product into your scalp, the nutrients not only cleanse and exfoliate dead cells, but also encourage the production of new skin cells and eliminate the presence of DHT.”
“ THERE ARE SHAMPOOS, CONDITIONERS AND SERUMS THAT HAVE BEEN CLINICALLY PROVEN TO COMBAT HAIR LOSS.” —Dr. Parikh
Turn to page 145 to find one near you.
That said, Dr. Rubinstein says that virtually any shampoo can help, as long as it is used often enough. “Shampooing more frequently results in better scalp health, but it can dry the hair out. Therefore, conditioners are essential to moisturize the hair and keep it healthy,” he explains, noting that combination shampooconditioner formulas are not ideal.
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Q: What’s the deal with those space-age looking laser caps and headbands? Do they really work and can they replace an inoffice treatment? Lasers are not only a popular method for removing hair on the body; they’re also useful for thickening hair and promoting regrowth. “Low-level laser therapy (LLLT) is a noninvasive technology that delivers wavelengths of light into the skin. Although it can help stimulate hair growth in balding areas, it may trigger better growth in areas that still have hair,” says Dr. Parikh, who notes that it’s not proven to be effective in growing new hair in an area that is completely bald. “There are differing opinions on how this works, but one leading theory is that light stimulates increased blood and oxygen flow to the area, which then stimulates the hair follicle at the cellular level. This causes the hair follicle's internal signals to change, and as a result, thin, weak hairs become stronger and thicker.”
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Two reasons why LLLT is appealing to patients is that it is convenient and accessible. “There are many versions of laser caps, laser combs and other low-level light laser devices available for at-home use that can potentially improve hair growth and quality,” says Dr. Attenello. However, doctors often recommend stronger, in-office versions of these treatments.
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“In-office laser treatments can be very helpful, alone or in combination with other treatments,” Dr. Day says. “I use the Fotona Dynamis laser, and have been impressed with the results.”
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Q: I hear a lot about PRP for hair growth, but I’m afraid to try it. Will it help to fill in bald spots?
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Three of the buzziest letters in hair restoration, PRP stands for platelet-rich plasma. “It has been used for injections into joints to improve the healing of ligaments, tendons and muscles since the 1980s,” says Dr. Rubinstein. “In the last five to 10 years, it has also been used for hair growth.” Here’s how it works: After blood is drawn from the patient’s arm, it is then “spun down in a centrifuge in one or more steps to separate out the different elements and end up with usable, concentrated platelet-rich plasma, which will then be injected back into the areas of concern on the scalp,” Dr. Day explains. “The PRP contains growth factors that can be helpful in promoting hair growth and slowing hair loss.” Palo Alto, CA facial plastic surgeon Jill L. Hessler, MD says no one knows the exact mechanism of how PRP works in orthopedics or hair growth, but “it is proposed that these growth factors are stimulating activity in the hair follicles. Many studies have revealed an increase in hair growth in clinical testing.” Dr. Attenello says a good candidate for PRP is someone who has had recent thinning or hair loss from any of a variety of reasons—stress, medical conditions, genetics, etc.—and wants to focus on a certain area. However, Dr. Parikh notes that if a person has been experiencing hair loss for several years and wants to redefine their hairline or fill in bald areas, they are probably not a good candidate. “PRP cannot make dead hair follicles grow again, nor can it create new hair follicles,” he explains.
A F T E R
B E F O R E
PRP and other cellular therapies are considered experimental by the FDA. Although there have been numerous scientific articles about its hair growth benefits, PRP has not been approved by the FDA for this use.
Concerned with significant hair thinning at age 34, this patient sought Dr. Day, who performed four PRP treatments to the scalp, spaced a month apart.
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The Stats
30 40 The millions of women in the U.S. affected by androgenetic alopecia. Source: NYU Langone Health
According to the American Academy of Dermatology, 40 percent of women have visible hair loss by age 40.
Q: B E F O R E
How do I know if I need hair restoration surgery and what does the procedure entail?
A F T E R
For someone seeking the most significant difference in their hair, hair-transplant surgery is the way to go, and potential patients need not worry about the telltale outcomes of the past. “Hair transplants have drastically changed over the past few decades,” Dr. Hessler says. “Gone are the days of the doll-head appearance.”
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B E F O R E
Dr. Hessler explains that FUE procedures are based on the idea of donor dominance: “The ‘donor hair’—usually from the back of the head— continues to act and grow as if it is still in the area where it was harvested.” For those debating between PRP and surgery, Dr. Attenello says appropriate candidates may want to opt for a hair transplant. “Many times, it is better to proceed with surgery, as this provides the best, most definitive and predictable results.” The appropriate candidate, Dr. Hessler says, is someone with more stable hair loss that has been gradually progressing over time. However, it is possible for hair loss to be too advanced, even for surgery. “If a person’s hair loss has progressed so far that they are bald or almost bald,” Dr. Parikh says, “the patient probably does not have enough donor hair to harvest for an effective hair transplant.”
A F T E R
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This 49-year-old patient had a naturally high hairline with deep recessions along the sides. Dr. Attenello performed a hair transplant using 1,600 follicular grafts to fill in the corners and frontal hairline.
Dr. Parikh champions a procedure known as follicular unit extraction (FUE). “This type of hair transplant allows us to add a patient’s own hair back into areas where hair has stopped growing or is thinning,” he says. “It involves removing hairs in follicular units from the back and sides of a person’s head and transplanting them into areas with thinning or no hair, such as the frontal hairline, temples and crown."
Wayne, NJ facial plastic surgeon Jeffrey B. Wise, MD treated this 47-year-old patient with three PRP treatments, spaced four to six weeks apart, and a prescribed topical alopecia solution formulated for women.
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Expert tips on the best brow products to use for each concern
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BRIGHT IDEA
The A-to-Z guide to vitamin C, the world’s most powerful antioxidant
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THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO LAYERING PRODUCT
The right order in which to apply products, so you can make the most of your skin care
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FLOWER POWER
The science behind six key floral extracts and their many skin benefits
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ARE CHINS THE NEW CHEEKS?
New and noteworthy treatments for enhancing the chin
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According to a recent AAD survey, 76% of Americans know sun protection is important, yet only 41% report regularly protecting themselves outdoors Source: American Academy of Dermatology
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CHEAT SHEET
Take a Brow Pencils, pomades, powders, oh my! Not sure which product type will make your brows look their best? Here are the top tips from the pros. —Brittany Burhop Fallon
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Pencils
Powders
What they are: “Pencils typically comprise pigment, wax and oils,” says Tim Quinn, Armani Beauty celebrity face designer. “Pigment for color depth; wax to bind and make application easier; and glycerin and dimethicone for skin conditioning.”
What they are: These come in many different textures and pigment levels. “Usually, powders with a finer mill have a higher saturation of pigment and are easily buildable, whereas grittier powders tend to be much lower in pigment and don’t lend themselves to easily building color,” says Jared Bailey, global brow expert for Benefit Cosmetics. “Finer-milled powders also allow you to use thinner brushes, which can create more detail in the brow.”
What they’re best for: Shaping, defining the arch and filling in sparse areas Expert tip: Quinn suggests using the pencil to map out your shape. “Align the pencil from your mid-nostril to find your inner corner, just to the outside of your pupil to find your arch, and the outer corner of your eye to find where your brow should end. Then lightly fill in and comb through.”
ONE TO TRY: Armani Beauty Smooth Silk Eyebrow Pencil, $30, giorgioarmanibeauty-usa.com
ONE TO TRY: Benefit Cosmetics Foolproof Brow Powder, $24, sephora.com
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ONE TO TRY: Anastasia Beverly Hills DIPBROW Pomade, $21, sephora.com
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What they’re best for: Those with fine brow hair who want to add a soft wash of color for a natural look. Expert tip: “I like to apply them with a small applicator so you can ruffle the powder underneath the brow hair and straight onto the skin,” says Bailey. “This ensures the pigment lasts all day, as it adheres to oils in the skin.”
Pomades What they are: “Full-pigment, waterproof creams that are most often packaged in a pot and best applied with an angled brush,” says Anastasia Soare, founder of Anastasia Beverly Hills. What they’re best for: Sculpting, darkening and disguising sparse areas— they’re also great for those with oily skin or anyone living in a humid climate who might benefit from a sweatproof option. Expert tip: “Mix a small amount of pomade on the cap very well, almost like you’re cleaning your brush,” says Soare. “Start at the arch and work toward the tail, drawing in ‘hair.’ Apply the last bit of product on the brush to the center of your brows with less pressure—this area should be lighter than the arch and tail, like natural brows.”
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Micro Pencils What they are: According to Quinn, micro pencils—the tip is shorter and thinner than regular brow pencils, allowing for more precision and control— have emerged as a DIY technique to mimic the look of microblading. What they’re best for: “Micro-fine points allow the user to sketch in individual ‘hairs’ where they’re needed,” says Quinn. Expert tip: If you have dark hair, choose pencils that are one shade lighter than your natural brow color, and if your hair is light, go one shade darker. However, blonds often have a tricky time finding the right hue, so if this is the case, Soare suggests using your skin’s undertone as a guide. “’Taupe’ brow products usually have cool/ash undertones, while ‘Blond’ ones are more warm/golden.”
Arch Support Modern eyebrow makeup lets us create arches where there aren’t really any—whether we overpluck, take a certain medication or experience thinning with age—but a fluffy, natural look usually requires more hair. To give barely there brows a youthful boost, swipe clear, peptide-rich Revitabrow Advanced Eyebrow Conditioner & Serum onto clean brows each night before bed. $110, revitalash.com
ONE TO TRY: Arches & Halos Micro Defining Brow Pencil, $13, target.com
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Tinted Gels What they are: These are lightweight formulas—many have a mousse-like texture— that look like mascara, but with a smaller brush. They’re often called “brow mascaras,” and they produce a full, fluffy look.
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What they’re best for: “These add natural-looking dimension and color to existing brow hair while providing flexible hold,” Soare says. They’re also very user-friendly and easy to apply on the go or in a hurry. Expert tip: “Brush the product through your brows in short, upward strokes,” Soare says. “It can be used on its own or layered over other products.”
ONE TO TRY: Milk Makeup KUSH Fiber Brow Gel, $20, milkmakeup.com
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ONE TO TRY: Stila Stay All Day Waterproof Brow Color, $21, ulta.com
Markers What they are: Similar to finetipped markers made for writing, these products typically have a long-wearing, ink-like finish, and vary in opacity and viscosity. What they’re best for: Bailey says they’re generally best-suited for those with sparse or thin brows who want to create the illusion of natural brow hair without the commitment of microblading (much like the effect of micro pencils, but with a different texture). “If you want a more natural look, I would choose a brow marker that has enough opacity to still see a hint of skin when applied, and a matte finish,” Bailey explains. “If the marker is more viscous (watery), it is better for creating wispy, feathery strokes. If it’s less-viscous (drier), it’s better for creating brows with lots of structure and definition.” Expert tip: “Brow markers should be used with a light hand to create fine, hair-like strokes,” says Bailey. Using heavier pressure may result in the brows looking too dark or “drawn on.”
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BRIGHT IDEA N E W B E A U T Y. C O M
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THE A-TO-Z GUIDE TO VITAMIN C
COSMETIC CHEMIST KELLY DOBOS IS A BIG FAN OF VITAMIN C FOR ONE VERY SPECIFIC REASON:
“Even NASA is studying it right now,” she says. “It’s big.”
While the rest of us may not be signed up for the next space mission, consider this: “Vitamin C is an essential nutrient that plays a crucial role in collagen synthesis,” Dobos says, calling out that notorious orange drink. “It goes beyond Tang.” And that it does. Every expert interviewed agreed: Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant and deserves a special space (no pun intended) in skin-care history for serving as a free-radical scavenger.
by Elizabeth Ritter
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AN INSIDE LOOK AT THE WORLD’S MOST POWERFUL ANTIOXIDANT
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Washington, D.C. dermatologist Tina Alster, MD is also a selfproclaimed fan of vitamin C. So much so, that she prescribes it to pretty much all of her patients. “I recommend its use over the entire face (also the neck and décolleté) in the morning under sunscreen,” she says. “It is a superior antioxidant and literally clears away damaging free radicals that break down the skin. It also enhances the effect of sunscreen to further protect the skin from the sun’s harmful rays.”
It is that free radical–fighting feature that makes the antioxidant act “like a thief,” and perform as a powerful anti-ager. Without antioxidants, Dobos explains, “free radicals steal electrons from normal molecules and induce a cascade of chemical of reactions that cause injury.”
addition to offering antioxidant protection, vitamin C also helps reduce signs of sun damage by speeding up cellular turnover, boosting collagen and brightening the skin.” One tiny drawback, Dobos points out, is that the ingredient can be tough to stabilize, and therefore, “efficacy, is hampered by so many confounding
“Vitamin C is an essential nutrient, which plays a crucial role in collagen synthesis.” Celebrity aesthetician Shani Darden agrees, adding that, in her opinion, vitamin C is one of the most important anti-aging ingredients and an essential part of a healthy skin-care routine. “Environmental stressors like pollution and UV exposure create free radicals, and vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps to neutralize them. Free radicals speed up skin aging by causing hyperpigmentation and depleting collagen, leading to wrinkles. In
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factors that it creates quite a challenge for cosmetic chemists in developing suitable skin-care products.” Besides keeping the formula stable, Darden sees one other challenge: user error. “Vitamin C is an active ingredient like AHAs, BHAs or retinol, and you have to introduce it slowly into your skin-care routine. Some people start using it too quickly and then experience irritation and get discouraged about using it.”
“At the end of the day, I think vitamin C should always have its moment (just not in the sun)! It is an integral part of my personal daily skin-care regimen, and I am pleased that others are now appreciating its many attributes.”
CONSUMER CRAZE
Kate Oldham, senior vice president of Beauty at Saks Fifth Avenue, also pegs vitamin C as a perennial favorite for consumers. “It’s a well-known, efficacious ingredient that fights against hyperpigmentation and free-radical damage to the skin, which is perfect for anyone living in a city because they are exposed to a lot more pollution.” “Our customers understand the benefits of vitamin C and look for it when making purchases, so we always highlight it,” she says, adding that Sunday Riley C.E.O. Glow Vitamin C + Turmeric Face Oil is one of Saks’ best-sellers. “The best thing about vitamin C is that it can be used daily and it is often combined with other ingredients. For example, Kiehl’s Powerful-Strength Line-Reducing Concentrate pairs vitamin C with other antioxidants and hyaluronic acid.”
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Dr. Alster is also on her own personal mission: “People think that ingesting vitamin C is better than applying it to the skin. That is wrong. More vitamin C gets to where it’s needed with topical application. The vitamin C formulation is also important: it should be stored in an airtight container away from sunlight in order to avoid degradation. If the product has turned yellow or amber in color, it is no longer good.”
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THE C SUITE New and noteworthy additions for your antioxidant arsenal.
FORMULA FACTS
THE CHEMIST CHECKLIST
Beautycounter Counter+ All Bright C Serum, $79, beautycounter.com
HoliFrog Sunapee Sacred-C Brightening Powder Wash, $44, holifrog.com
Protocol Vitamin C Superserum, $130, protocol-lab.com
As Dobos explains, “Vitamin C is readily water-soluble, and while many cosmetic creams and lotions feature water-based vitamin C, in these types of formulations it is unstable with respect to heat, light and exposure to oxygen, and at pH levels near or above 7. Trace sources of metals like copper and iron are also known to be detrimental.”
Although less efficacious, derivatives of vitamin C like sodium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl palmitate have greater stability.
Opaque containers and airless pump packing, as well as individual capsules can also help protect the ingredient.
A-Method C+ Brightening Elixir, $90, theamethod skincare.com
Pixi +C Vit Priming Oil, $28, pixibeauty.com
Naturium Vitamin C Face Oil, $25, naturium.com
Advanced carrier systems like liposomes can also be used to deliver sustained release of vitamin C over time.
Combinations of vitamin C with vitamins A and E have a been shown to enhance the ingredient’s efficacy.
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THE GLOW TEAM Darden always recommends using vitamin C in the morning to reap all of the benefits. The lineup she loves: “Start off with a gentle cleanser—I’m partial to my personal Cleansing Serum, which cleanses skin without stripping it. Next up, apply a vitamin C serum. I love iS Clinical’s Pro-Heal Serum because it’s a powerful formula, but still very nourishing for the skin. If you have a lot of scarring, iS Clinical’s Super Serum is amazing at minimizing the appearance of scars, too. Follow up with a sunscreen that is lightly hydrating yet doesn’t cause congestion, like Supergoop!’s Play Everyday Lotion.”
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THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO
LAYER
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by Elizabeth Ritter
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—Veronica Barton Schwartz
“You can have the most amazing skin-care products, but if you’re applying them in the wrong order, you’re wasting time and money.”
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A best-practices playbook to making the most of your skin care.
The Internet collectively lost its mind last year when the Big Little Lies skin-care meme made the rounds. As the suggested instruction of cleanser-toner-moisturizer-oil-sunscreen offered a solid, illustrated answer to the age-old question of what order we should apply our skin-care products in, not everyone was fully convinced. Chaos ensued, revised recommendations circulated and numerous questions strongly challenging everything from the facial oil step to the non-mention of foundation quite literally swarmed social media for a couple of days.
Besides being a fan of moisturizer before oil, celebrity aesthetician Veronica Barton Schwartz says she sees her clients make mistakes with the order of their products all the time. “You could have the most amazing skin care, but if you’re applying them in the wrong order, you’re wasting time and money. The biggest problem is putting thin, water-based products on top of thicker creamy or oily ones. The thicker products form a barrier that prevents anything else from penetrating the skin properly, so you’ll never see the full benefits of everything you apply after that.”
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And as for the great SPF debate, Barton Schwartz always recommends applying sunscreen as the last skin-care step, and then makeup can go on top of that. “If you layer serums, creams and oils on top of your SPF, you’re essentially diluting it, leaving your skin susceptible,” she says. Hannah Hatcher, makeup artist and global educator for jane iredale, is in agreement, and suggests applying SPF, then taking a minute before making any makeup moves. “I think many people don’t like sunscreen because it ‘mixes’ with their other products. If you go too fast and don’t wait for it to sink in, it can make it less effective and even get in your eyes, which doesn’t look good,” Hatcher says. “Let it sit, let it set. It will make everything look better.”
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Because thicker products pretty much play the part of Fort Knox on your face, it’s smart to start with the thinnest, or the most-watery products, such as toners and serums, first. “Heavier, more moisturizing products, like lotions, creams and oils, come next,” says Barton Schwartz.
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NI GHT SHI F T So, do the basic steps change from morning-to-night routines? Most experts will say yes, but it really only comes down to a couple of simple steps. “At night, you’re doing a deeper cleansing to wash off the day’s pollution, makeup and sunscreen,” Barton Schwartz says. “You still follow the same steps with your routine, going lightest to heaviest, but at the end of the cleansing routine, you can use either a chemical or physical exfoliant.” Prospect, KY dermatologist Tami Buss Cassis, MD agrees and stresses that if you’re using a retinoid or any other active, apply it to clean skin. “Using too many products and not using the active ingredient first are common mistakes. Sometimes, your dermatologist will cheat and ask you to moisturize first, but that is only because they are helping you out for a reason, like if you have sensitive skin.”
“When in doubt, use the same general rule of thumb: Layer your serums in order of thinnest to thickest in viscosity.” —Kim Zimmerman
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Inside Tip If you go the layering route with serums, Rescue Spa’s Kim Zimmerman says it’s important to be aware of the ingredients so you aren’t overdoing it with actives such as retinol, vitamin A or certain acids. “Depending on your routine, these ingredients may also show up in your cleanser and moisturizer, so it is important to be aware, especially if you are sensitive.”
This one can get a bit confusing, but New York dermatologist Michelle Henry, MD recommends considering a facial mist like a toner or essence. “They are very light and water-based, so they should be layered under richer creams to get the most benefit. And, because they are light and often also very hydrating, they are great options for daytime.” Regarding face mists and sprays, Dr. Cassis says applying them post-makeup gets a positive check in her book. “I love my Avène Thermal Spring Water— it is a must. I always use it after I apply my makeup.” And is it bad to reapply over makeup throughout the day? “Nope, never!” she says. “Hydration is the key to good skin.”
+ The Serum Step ANNA EFETOVA/GETTY IMAGES
As very opinionated social-media reviewers and New York dermatologist Jody Levine, MD call out: The popular meme skipped the serum step. In a nutshell, serum should be applied before moisturizer, and she recommends the face wash, toner, serum, moisturizer mix. “Many people massage serums into their skin, but you should let the formulas absorb on their own.” Her suggestion: Gently press them into skin and allow them to absorb for a few minutes before applying moisturizer.
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Because serums absorb deep into the skin—rather than sitting on the surface like moisturizers—many skin-care savants also choose to layer them, adding a whole other level to the application game. “The thing I notice most in terms of incorrect skin-care application is that clients don’t know how to layer their serums properly—it’s probably the number-one question we get the most,” Zimmerman says. When in doubt, she uses the same general rule of thumb: Layer your serums in order of thinnest to thickest in viscosity. “This way they can properly absorb deeper into the epidermis and you receive the benefits of your products.”
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FLOW by Brittany Burhop Fallon
GUTTER CREDIT
I walk through a garden and see a rainbow of blooms—all shapes, sizes, colors and scents. But put a cosmetic chemist in that same garden, and chances are they will see a million different skin-care formulations just waiting to be tinkered with in a lab. “Nature is the best chemist in the world,” says Boldijarre Koronczay, president of Éminence Organic Skin Care. “Due to their healing powers and potent actives, flowers can benefit just about every skin issue, from acne to aging.”
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WER POWER
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Evidence of flowers used for skin treatments dates back to 1500 BC when ancient Egyptians created ointments combined with essential oils, aromatic waters, resins and incense for the mummification process. “We don’t know for certain, but it is possible that the skin (of the embalmer) improved in areas that came in contact with these substances, leading to the use of them on living subjects,” says Paula Provenzano, national education manager for Jurlique. New York dermatologist Heidi Waldorf, MD adds that “archaeological remains of bottles have revealed that Egyptians knew how to extract essential oils from flowers, including geranium and rose, with a technique called enfleurage that involves soaking parts of the flower in oil.” Edouard Mauvais-Jarvis, director of scientific and environmental communications for Dior, says the skin-care benefits of flowers stem from their desperate need to protect themselves. “Flowers have a huge advantage over us: They have more than 1.2 billion years of evolution; they are the most evolved part of the vegetal world,” he explains. “But, they have a big disadvantage, too: They are not able to move, so they cannot escape environmental aggressions that surround them, such as UV rays, oxidative stress, climate variations, draught and frost. As a result, they have developed an extremely rich biodiversity of molecules made to defend their structures.” To extract these molecules from flowers and create precious essential oils, chemists typically use steam distillation: Hot steam causes dried flowers to open up and release their oils, nutrients and liquids.
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The INCI List On skin-care ingredient labels, floral extracts are listed by their INCI name (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients), which aligns with the Latin or scientific name. More than 28,000 INCI names, published by the Personal Care Products Council, have been developed by the INCI Committee with participation by the FDA.
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BEAUTY BLOOMS One flower is not more beneficial than another for the skin, says Fresh cofounder Alina Roytberg. “Different flowers provide different benefits that address skin’s varying needs.” From petal to stem, these six flowers bear complexionperfecting essential oils.
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Hibiscus
INCI Name: Hibiscus sabdariffa
According to Michelle Shieh, scientific communications manager at Amorepacific, a hibiscus tree boasts vitality that is powerful enough to blossom up to 5,000 flowers over 100 days. “The team at Mamonde researched this vitality and discovered active moisturizing substances in the outer layer of hibiscus roots,” she explains. “These substances have the ability to form a strong protective moisture barrier on the skin and deliver intense moisturizing effects. Our scientists conduct research alongside a hibiscus specialist, and through extensive experimentation, a new variety of the floral essence—hibiscus syriacus bark extract—was created.” Hibiscus flowers also contain a variety of exfoliating acids, including pyruvic acid, which Koronczay says “has incredible effects for lightening hyperpigmentation and stimulating collagen. It’s also known to increase elasticity.”
02 Rose
INCI Names: Rosa damascena, rose absolute, rosa canina, rosa centifolia
“Christian Dior once said, ‘After women, flowers are the most divine creations,’” says Mauvais-Jarvis, noting that the House of Dior was the first company to create a rose dedicated specifically to cosmetic purposes. “Rose petals contain a valuable, emollient oil, that when extracted and formulated in skin care, can be used to hydrate, soothe and tone skin,” explains Provenzano. “It also strengthens the skin’s barrier, helping to prevent moisture loss.” Another skin benefit of this beloved flower is the stimulation of microcirculation, which oxygenates the skin, creating an overall glow. “This increase in circulation promotes detoxification and healing within the cells,” Koronczay explains. For those who suffer from redness, rose’s anti-inflammatory ability “can help reduce it and calm the skin for a more even-toned complexion—it’s also great for rebalancing dry and sensitive skin,” says Provenzano. Unlike rose oil, rose hip oil comes from the seeds of the rose hip fruit, which predominantly grows on wild rose bushes in Chile, but also in other parts of the world. Tata Harper, founder of her eponymous skin-care brand, says rose hips contain a specific galactolipid that has amazing anti-inflammatory power, and potent antioxidants tocopherol and carotenoids give it anti-aging potential. Cosmetic chemist and cofounder of Chemist Confessions, Victoria Fu, finds rose hip seed oil to be the more efficacious ingredient in the rose category. “It has a great fatty acid profile and good overall tolerance across all skin types, and it adds a glow to dull skin. As a bonus, it contains a little vitamin A too!”
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Chamomile
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Lavender
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INCI Name: Lavandula angustifolia
Although lavender is most often linked to aromatherapy and sleepinducers, it boasts other benefits that may surprise you. “Lavender has been used for more than 2,500 years and continues to be one of the most widely used flowers in skin care,” says Harper. “I call it the do-it-all flower because it’s effective at killing acne-causing bacteria— it can even help prevent future breakouts—and also increases skin healing, regulates oil production and reduces inflammation. It can do all of these things while also promoting relaxation.” However, cosmetic chemist and cofounder of Chemist Confessions Gloria Lu points out that despite lavender’s many positive properties, it is one of the well-known essential oils that can actually be sensitizing in skin care, and is often used to add fragrance to a product. “We may often think of plants and flowers as natural, and therefore safer and gentler, but in actuality, these oils are complex and can contain allergens,” she explains. “Before you apply a new product, I suggest patch-testing on a small area of your face to make sure your skin is happy with it.”
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Dr. Waldorf says chamomile is the most commonly and reliably used floral extract in skin care. One of several species in the daisy family, it's actually an herb that comes from daisy-like flowers. “Chamomile’s antiseptic and inflammation-fighting qualities can impart a calming effect on the skin,” she explains. They also promote healing of the skin, reduce redness and minimize blemishes. Fu likes German chamomile in particular because it contains a compound called bisabolol, which has been “shown clinically to have great data as an anti-inflammatory, and can even help brighten skin tone.”
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Calendula INCI Name: Calendula officinalis
Similar to chamomile in that it’s part of the daisy family—it comes from bright orange and yellow marigolds—and known for its soothing properties, calendula oil is used to promote skin healing. “Its anti-inflammatory ability allows it to reduce swelling and irritation, including that associated with rosacea and eczema,” Koronczay says. “Calendula can also help tone and moisturize, and works even more effectively when paired with linden, which also supports hydration in the skin.” Cosmetic chemist Ni’Kita Wilson praises the flower’s antioxidant levels, which come from its carotenoid and flavonoid compounds. “These help neutralize free radicals and minimize oxidative damage,” she says.
06 Lotus
INCI Name: Nymphaea caerulea
As Fresh cofounder Lev Glazman describes, in Southeast Asia there is such a respect for the lotus plant that the natives use every part of it—petals, roots, seeds and stem—for food and fabric, and also as a remedy for the skin. “When I learned of this, I became consumed with tapping into the flower’s resilient beauty and strength, and leveraged it for our products to address early signs of aging,” he says. “In clinical testing, we discovered that lotus contains high levels of polyphenols, which are powerful antioxidants known to defend against wrinkle-causing free radicals.” Lotus leaves, specifically, are known as a symbol of purification in Asia due to their unique ability to keep themselves clean at all times. “When the surface of a lotus leaf is magnified under a microscope, a large number of ultrafine bumps over other fine bumps are observed,” says Shieh. “This structure blocks water drops from spreading out, and also pushes out pollutants, which allows the leaf to protect itself from a contaminated environment, like dirt and mud.” When applied in skin care, this special detoxifying mechanism can be especially helpful, particularly in cleansers.
MACROVECTOR/ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS; TIM UR/ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS; OLAF SIMON/ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS
INCI Names: Matricaria chamomilla (German chamomile), Anthemis nobilis (Roman chamomile), Eriocephalus punctulatus (Cape chamomile)
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01 A mix of calendula, chamomile and
fatty acids, Jurlique Calendula Redness
GARDEN PARTY
Rescue Soothing Moisturizing Cream diminishes blotchiness and strengthens the skin barrier to suppress sensitivities and irritation. $38, jurlique.com 02 Seventeen botanical ingredients,
Eight floral-forward formulas that not only look pretty on our vanities, but also really work.
including lavender, rose extract and hyaluronic acid, give Tata Harper
Hydrating Floral Essence its serious moisturizing power. Spritz it on as the first step in your routine to enhance the absorption of what comes next. $94, tataharperskincare.com 03 Apply organic Éminence Organic
Skin Care Lavender Age Corrective
Night Concentrate before bed to reap the benefits of lavender in two ways: the comforting scent will calm your senses while the floral extract works with your skin’s repair cycle to hydrate and nourish overnight. $68, eminenceorganics.com 04 For those with dry skin who have tried every moisturizer to no avail, add
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Mamonde Floral Moisture Cream to
your list and you won’t be disappointed. A little bit of the silky, lightly scented formula goes a long way, leaving skin soft, supple and dewy. $35, ulta.com 05 The high concentration of polyphenols formulated in Fresh Lotus Youth Preserve
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Moisturizer make it a potent threat against
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the wrinkle-causing free radicals skin encounters every day. $48, fresh.com 06 Each jar of ultra-luxurious Dior Prestige
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Le Micro-Caviar de Rose contains 17,000 micro-pearls filled with Rose de Granville
extract and its 22 micronutrients that work synergistically to hydrate and plump dry, stressed-out skin. $440, dior.com
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07 Use rose- and rose hip–infused By Terry Baume de Rose Glowing Mask a few
times a week—it tingles as it transforms from gel to foam—to clear congested pores and breathe life back into dull skin for a healthy glow. $58, byterry.com 08 Keep Mario Badescu Facial Spray with Aloe, Chamomile and Lavender
in the fridge to cool and soothe skin on a hot day, or on your nightstand—the
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lavender scent is particularly calming before bed. $12, ulta.com
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are chins the new cheeks? by Tatiana Bido
With eyes and cheeks at the forefront of facial rejuvenation for decades, it was only a matter of time before we turned our attention to the endpoint on our faces, as trending chin refinements take center stage. The chin, a crowning glory on the tip of Brad Pitt and Idris Elba’s chiseled jawbone, has long been a measure of strength, masculinity and attractiveness. But, a welldefined jawline isn’t just the cornerstone of a physically blessed male face; it’s also an area of growing aesthetic interest for women, too. Today, genioplasty, or chin enhancement, is trending, and in 2018, The Aesthetic Society reported a 20 percent jump in popularity for chin augmentations. Whether adding or taking away volume from the chin—the lower face is now getting as much attention as the cheeks.
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Balance + Proportion According to Westborough, MA facial plastic surgeon Min Ahn, MD, while chins may be in vogue, they have always been a major focal point for aesthetic doctors when addressing other features like the eyes, nose and lips. “This relates to facial balance,” he explains. “Balance is critical to facial aesthetics. If you split the face into thirds horizontally, you’re going to want balance in those three areas. When I perform a rhinoplasty, if the nose is big in the middle third, but the lower third is weak, then the eye will immediately go to that middle area. If the chin is stronger, then we see the eyes pop because the middle and lower third are no longer drawing attention away from the upper third of the face.”
N E W B E A U T Y. C O M
New York plastic surgeon John Kang, MD uses “the vase analogy” with his patients: “No matter how beautiful the vase is, it is the base that provides stability and strength. No one really pays attention to the base, but if it is lacking, you would know something is missing.”
A study published in the Aesthetic Surgery Journal by Temple University School of Medicine in Philadelphia deciphered that the most “mathematically beautiful” face had ideal facial contours, dimensions and ratios that create a harmonious, balanced and attractive face based on viewer perception. A heart-shaped face—think Halle Berry and Reese Witherspoon— with cheeks as wide as the eyebrows, a narrow jawline and a slightly pointy, protruding chin was seen as most desirable.
B E F O R E
A F T E R
New York facial plastic surgeon Konstantin Vasyukevich, MD notes, “It’s not just a matter of adding volume to the chin, but we must also address the jawline and any excess fullness that may make the lower face appear wider, and subsequently weaker.”
New York facial plastic surgeon Dilip Madnani, MD says he performed a mini-facelift and a lip lift, and used Restylane Lyft in the chin of this 45-year-old patient to give her a more defined jawline that complemented her features.
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Nonsurgical Facial Sculpting Jowling is minimal sagging skin around the jawline, and can be treated by strategically adding volume with filler (off-label) or fat transfer to create a more chiseled, youthful look when there is volume deficiency. “Filler in the chin can add a few millimeters of length, which, along with a slender jawline, can reshape the face,” explains Dr. Vasyukevich. Dr. Ahn likes to use longer-lasting hyaluronic acid fillers such as Restylane Lyft and Juvéderm Voluma, which recently became the first filler to ever be FDA-approved for the chin area. “They have more density, provide more projection and last at least a year,” he says. Beverly Hills, CA plastic surgeon Andrew Ordon, MD favors collagen-stimulating fillers or fat transfer for the chin. “To add projection and volume, I inject either fat or Radiesse, a filler made of calcium hydroxylapatite, which is found naturally in our bones and joints.” Neurotoxins like Botox Cosmetic, Dysport and Xeomin can also be used to create a more narrow jawline. “When we inject the masseter muscles (off-label), it results in a more slenderlooking jawline because those muscles will now be at rest,” Dr. Vasyukevich says. “This is commonly used for teeth grinders or TMJ.”
Fat Transfer
A F T E R
B E F O R E
This technique involves removing fat from one area of the body via liposuction and injecting it into the chin. Surgeons consider fat transfer one of the safest recontouring methods because the filler is from the patient’s own body. However, Dr. Ahn says fat is not always the first choice for chins: “Fat is not a solid material and a portion of it absorbs over time. Also, if you don’t like the result you cannot remove it, unlike an implant or hyaluronic acid filler.”
To address this 56-year-old patient’s concerns about jowling and lack of facial definition, Dr. Kang performed a nonsurgical chin augmentation using Radiesse injections.
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Reshaping Procedures Implants will help to restore facial contours, define a jawline and revolumize an otherwise unbalanced facial structure. Dr. Kang often recommends a chin implant to patients who want a permanent solution for a small chin. “This will provide lengthening and a sharper delineation between the chin and neck.”
Turn to page 145 to find one near you.
B E F O R E
A F T E R
According to Dr. Kang, the reduction of a longer chin is not as straightforward as it may seem. “If you have a lifelong history of having a long jaw bone that pushes your chin forward to give you an underbite, you would benefit from surgery to reset your jaw length and correct the underbite issue,” he says. “However, a sliding genioplasty, in which the chin bone is reshaped to slide backwards, may still be required to optimize chin contour.”
While performing a facelift and browlift, Newtown Centre, MA plastic surgeon Joseph Russo, MD used an implant in the chin of this 53-year-old patient to help reshape her face.
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In addition to giving this 53-year-old patient an endoscopic browlift, a lower blepharoplasty and a facelift, Raleigh, NC facial plastic surgeon Adam Stein, MD performed a genioplasty with an implant for a dramatically more youthful look.
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Chin Reduction
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A chin augmentation involves making an incision either through the gumline or underneath the chin in a crease, and the implant is sized according to each patient. Dr. Ahn prefers to operate underneath the chin because it’s a “cleaner” procedure. “I create a pocket directly on top of the bone underneath what is called the periosteum, avoiding any important nerves that provide sensation and placing the implant into this tight subperiosteal pocket. Then I suture it into place.” Eventually the implant will feel like your normal chin. “It will feel like normal bone,” adds Dr. Ahn.
B E F O R E
Dr. Ahn says chin implants are usually made of solid silicone, and these days, they don’t look like a little button at the end of your chin. “They are anatomic, meaning they have tapered ends to fit the curves of your jawline. They look extremely natural.”
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Slenderizing the Chin + Jawline Submental fat, also known as a double chin, commonly occurs when a layer of fat forms below the chin. While it may be associated with weight gain, a double chin may also be caused by genetics or loose skin as a result of aging. Liposuction: To reduce volume under the chin, allowing it protrude further, liposuction involves removing excess fat in the subcutaneous space—the layer of fat just under the skin— between the skin and underlying platysma muscle under the chin and jowl area. The liposuction is performed through a small incision made in the natural crease under the chin, which usually heals imperceptively.
“An implant will provide lengthening and a sharper delineation between the chin and neck.” —Dr. John Kang
Necklift: Just like liposuction, fat is removed through an incision in the crease under the chin, but with a necklift, the platysma muscle is tightened in the midline, creating a greater improvement than can be achieved with any other procedure in the appropriate patient. Kybella: A type of deoxycholic acid like the one found naturally in the body that absorbs dietary fat, Kybella permanently dissolves fat when injected strategically below the chin. A series of injections causes fat cells to burst and reabsorb back into the body. However, results are not as predictable as other modalities. CoolSculpting: This noninvasive treatment freezes subcutaneous fat to the point that the fat cells are destroyed and absorbed by the body. A CoolMini applicator is placed below the chin to freeze excess fat, which is then processed by the lymphatic system and expelled from the body over time. FaceTite: Using radio frequency–assisted lipolysis, this minimally invasive treatment destroys fat cells. Using a small cannula inserted underneath the skin, radio-frequency waves are transmitted through electrodes that melt excess fat, which then gets sucked away. La Jolla, CA plastic surgeon Robert Singer, MD notes that every patient is different and treatments should be individualized based on anatomical findings, desired outcome and realistic expectations.
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From stretch marks to dark underarms, we debunk eight common body “taboos”
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HANDS FREE
The next frontier in preventive aging for our oftenneglected hands
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SHAPE SHIFTERS
Everything to know about the most in-demand bodyshaping procedures
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15% of our body weight accounts for skin
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8 THINGS
Body Language
Behind the Scenes Davie, FL dermatologist Marianna Blyumin-Karasik, MD says the cause of back or butt acne is most often an active lifestyle. “Cleansing acne-prone areas with a benzoyl peroxide wash after sweating or long-term sitting is the key to erasing body pimples. Post-shower, use a spray with salicylic and glycolic acid to help purify pores and lighten scars.”
Wisdom Stripes Stretch marks come in all shapes, colors and sizes. “Vertical stretch marks stem from pregnancy, whereas horizontal ones originate from weight variations over time,” says Morristown, NJ plastic surgeon Daniel Schmid, MD. “Treatments with a fractional CO2 laser such as Fraxel can help blend these marks into the surrounding normal skin so they’re less noticeable.”
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Pit Stop According to West Palm Beach, FL dermatologist Kenneth Beer, MD, the two main reasons for darkness under the arms are acanthosis nigricans—a condition that causes a darkening and thickening of the skin—and chromhidrosis, which causes dark-colored sweat. “To treat dark sweat, try a neurotoxin like Botox or Dysport,” says Dr. Beer.
“[Sitting in] the Emsella chair can stimulate 11,000 kegel contractions in 28 minutes.” —Dr. Carolyn Delucia
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Let’s be real: Everyone has battled a body taboo of some sort. From long chin hairs to hormonal hot flashes, we’ve merely kept our mouths shut and reverted to the hidden eyes of Google. Feeling secretive or ashamed? There are 8 million results for “body taboos” online, which goes to show that we’re all in this together and that (thankfully) there are solutions for our woes. —Olivia Wohlner
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Stress urinary incontinence affects 15 million women in the U.S.
Love Pockets “Both invasive and noninvasive fatreduction methods are helpful for back and armpit fat,” explains Dr. Schmid. “CoolSculpting can easily treat these areas, but liposuction— the gold standard of fat removal— will administer the most dramatic reduction of fat to create a smooth, contoured shape.”
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Source: National Association for Continence
Pelvic Problems
Beauty Marks “When moles are more than one color or change in size, they can potentially be dangerous,” says Dr. Beer. When this is the case, the safest bet for permanent removal is to visit a doctor for a surgical excision. “It’d be really embarrassing to show up at the ER because you’re bleeding to death from a do-it-yourself experiment," he adds.
According to Nashville, TN plastic surgeon Dan Hatef, MD, “Pelvic floor dysfunction is just as much functional as it is structural.” For patients with pelvic pain, frequent incontinence and dyspareunia (pain during sex), biofeedback therapy and noninvasive radio-frequency treatments can help alleviate these issues in just a few visits.
Out From Under “Ingrown hairs are caused by follicle irritation, which happens when your pores dilate and attract germs,” says Dr. Blyumin-Karasik. To halt flare-ups, use a sensitive-skin shaving foam and a calming, antimicrobial moisturizer. “If this doesn’t work, try laser hair removal,” Dr. Blyumin-Karasik adds.
6 Mother Nature
Having a baby often comes with laxity down below. To restore strong vaginal function, take a seat on the Emsella chair, which Hillsborough, NJ gynecologist Carolyn Delucia, MD says can stimulate 11,000 kegel contractions in 28 minutes. “There are also laser treatments that help to increase collagen within the vaginal walls to provide a sense of increased elasticity,” she explains.
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Smooth Moves Tweak your taboos at home with these everyday insecurity renovators. 01 Meet Megababe Le Tush Clarifying Butt Mask—the ultimate facial for your booty that rids any unwanted butt’ne and dry patches for a smooth, bikini-ready bottom. $22, megababebeauty.com 02 The long-lasting and tone-evening Dove Even Tone Antiperspirant is a modern-day skin savior for lessening underarm discoloration while keeping sweat at bay. $6, target.com 03 Honest Beauty Rock The Bump Body Butter claims to reduce the appearance of stretch marks and deliver 24-hour moisture with the help of shea butter, avocado oil and vitamin E. $20, honest.com
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Despite the many preemptive measures we take to slow signs of aging on our face, neck and décolleté, our true age can be easily detected with the wave of a hand. Thanks to some of the same treatments we’ve long relied on to even skin tone and texture, and a few fillers FDA-approved for the hands, an about face: Our most expressive accessories are primed to (finally) look as fresh as our complexions.
F R E E
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PROMINENT VEINS
VOLUME LOSS
H Y P E R P I G M E N TAT I O N
D R Y, F L A K Y S K I N
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by Erika Stalder
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01 Obagi-C Fx System C-Clarifying Serum, $126, dermstore.com
THE CONCERN:
Dry, Flaky Skin
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Now more than ever, handwashing with the frequency of an overscheduled surgeon has become a necessary part of staying healthy. But while the practice goes a long way to ward off fungi, germs and bacteria, soaps can also suck the hands of their moisture. The result: dry, scaly skin with compromised barrier function that despite our best efforts, isn’t optimized to keep out bacteria, viruses and more. “The skin on the hands don’t have as many sebaceous glands as the skin on the face and other areas of the body, so it’s more likely to become dry, and quicker,” says Beverly Hills, CA dermatologist Ava Shamban, MD. “You really should replace the moisture that's lost in your hands after you wash them.” THE FIX:
Proven Hydrators
To replenish hydration in the hands, look for a moisturizer with squalane, ceramides and antioxidants. Dr. Shamban’s favorites include these three: 01 La Roche-Posay Lipikar Eczema Soothing Relief Cream, $15, laroche-posay.us 02 Restorsea PRO Intensive Hand Treatment 10X, $100, Available at doctors’ offices 03 Eucerin Advanced Repair Hand Cream for Very Dry Skin, $5, target.com
02 SkinMedica Lytera 2.0 Pigment Correcting Serum, $154, skinmedica.com
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THE CONCERN:
Hyperpigmentation on Hands + Knuckles The main culprit behind blotchy brown spots on the hands? UV light. “The hands are not much different than the face,” says New York plastic surgeon Stafford Broumand, MD. “If you don’t protect them against the sun, age spots and pigment changes will develop.” If brown spots appear on the knuckles, it could be related to a larger underlying health issue, such as lupus, prediabetes, Addison’s disease, scleroderma, dermatomyositis, or a drug reaction. For some, the friction created by frequent handwashing can also accelerate hyperpigmentation mid-finger. “Antibacterial soap, hand sanitizer and sometimes even gentle cleansers can act as irritants for some,” says Montclair, NJ dermatologist Jeanine Downie, MD. “Irritation leads to inflammation, causing a rise in melanocytes, the pigmentproducing cells that show as dark spots.” THE FIX:
Pigment Busters If a consultation with a doctor shows contact dermatitis to be the cause of darkened knuckles, there are treatment options that won’t compromise cleanliness. To start, experts stress the use of sunscreen to prevent visible spots from darkening and additional hyperpigmentation from forming. Topical serums and lotions containing kojic acid, tranexamic acid, hydroquinone and vitamin C can help temporarily lighten the spots at home, while in-office treatments like mild glycolic or TCA chemical peels, and lasers may provide more effective and long-lasting results when done in a series.
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Turn to page 145 to find one near you.
THE CONCERNS:
Volume Loss + Prominent Veins Sun damage doesn’t stop at splotches: Along with the natural aging process, it can also render the skin on the hands crepey. “With sun damage, there’s an upregulation of some of the enzymes that degrade collagen,” Denver dermatologist Joel L. Cohen, MD says. “Some volume loss and structural support is age-related and some is related to movement.” The result is a more hollow appearance with visible subcutaneous veins and tendons that create a skeletal effect. THE FIX:
Hyaluronic Acid Fillers Though doctors have long used fat injections to plump sunken hands and many feel that conservatively performed micro-fat injections may produce the best long-term result, both Drs. Shamban and Broumand note this method can also create a puffed-up, mitten-like look over time. Instead, two fillers—Radiesse and Restylane Lyft—are FDA-approved to be injected into the backs of the hands and can be used to better regulate volume in the long run. “Both do a nice job of restoring volume, but the opacity of Radiesse tends to camouflage prominent veins a bit better,” says Dr. Cohen, who completed the FDA study for Restylane Lyft used in the hands.
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A F T E R
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After numbing the area with topical anesthetic, Dr. Cohen uses two entry points and a blunt-tip cannula to inject the filler, a technique that greatly reduces patient discomfort and the number of needle pokes per hand. The filler can last up to 12 months, though Dr. Broumand suggests seeking additional treatment prior to total depletion so less filler can be used to maintain the look.
Dr. Cohen injected 1.5 ccs of Radiesse to replace lost volume and mask the visible veins in this 66-year-old patient’s hands. Reprinted with permission, Journal of Drugs in Dermatology
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S H A PE +
S H I F T E R S by Tatiana Bido
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In the world of plastic surgery, the best way to address two of women’s most frustrating body complaints in one single session is referred to as a Mommy Makeover. This one-stop-shop combination procedure always includes breast reshaping and tummy tightening. Today, the list of add-on procedures continues to grow, so much so, that we should rename it the Total Transformation, which might actually be a better name for this “one and done” surgery.
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The Ultimate Body Makeover The term Mommy Makeover has many definitions depending on the surgeon, and can include many combinations of procedures. But don’t let the name fool you, any patient who wants to reduce operating costs and cut down on recovery time can opt for this treatment.
N E W B E A U T Y. C O M
“While it is popular among mothers, I also have many patients who have never had children, such as those who have lost substantial weight,” says New York plastic surgeon B. Aviva Preminger, MD. “It helps to counteract aging changes in the body—mainly sagging in the breasts and abdomen, and hard-to-lose belly fat— and is intended to address a woman’s concerns and make her feel great about the way she looks.”
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“Typically, it includes a limited or full tummy tuck with liposuction and some form of breast surgery, which can be a breast augmentation with or without a lift, a lift only or a reduction,” explains Encino, CA plastic surgeon George Sanders, MD.
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PROCEDURAL LIMITS Safety is always the main concern, and while there is no cap as to how many procedures can be performed at once, there is a limit on how long a patient can be in surgery. “It is recommended that the length of elective surgery be less than six hours,” says La Jolla, CA plastic surgeon Robert Singer, MD. “Although, many ethical plastic surgeons would feel that certain combinations of procedures are excessive and have significant risk factors if performed in one stage.”
Dr. Preminger performed a Mommy Makeover on this 48-year-old patient that included a tummy tuck and natural-looking breast augmentation with implants.
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DEFINING MOMENT
PA RT 1 :
The Surgical Waist Trainer
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A F T E R
For 50-year-old patient Elizabeth E., reviving her pre-baby body took more than a decade. “I had an emergency C-section, which left me with a prominent scar down my stomach. As the years went on, I could never lose the weight in my abdomen, and it grew into a disfiguring shape.”
To give Elizabeth a flat stomach for the first time in 13 years, Chicago plastic surgeon Michael Horn, MD performed an abdominoplasty. “Not only did he get rid of the excess skin and fat; he gave me a body I never thought I could have. All of my dieting and exercise could never have given me this result. Now, I love walking around the house naked and seeing my reflection in the mirror.”
As we age and put stress on our stomach, whether through pregnancy or weight fluctuations, its shape and size begins to change. A tummy tuck (also known as an abdominoplasty) may be the best option for restoring firmness and addressing excess fat and loose skin.
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According to Newport Beach, CA plastic surgeon Sanjay Grover, MD, fat that forms into a belly bump is not our fault. “Post-pregnancy, the core abdominal muscles are never the same,” he says. “For some women, the linea alba—the connection between the left and right sides of the abdominal muscles—is overwhelmed during pregnancy, leaving a separation that persists long after delivery.” Known as diastasis recti, this condition occurs when the linea alba between the rectus abdominis muscles, or the “six-pack” muscles, is stretched. “It then becomes weaker and wider than normal,” Dr. Grover explains, “which can lead to a bulge in the stomach where the muscles no longer meet.” TIGHTEN + TONE During surgery, small pockets of fat are removed with liposuction and an incision is made at the pubic bone through which the muscles are tightened and excess skin is removed. Dr. Singer advises that for the best results with the least likelihood of potential complications, patients should be done having children, weigh within 10 pounds of their ideal weight and have a BMI of less than 30.
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Body Boosters These skin smoothers nourish, exfoliate and protect every last inch of skin.
01 Natural, fast-absorbing MUTHA Body Oil is made of essential vitamins, seed oils, fruit oils and extracts that give skin a luminous glow. $104, mutha.com 02 Colleen Rothschild Beauty Tahitian Monoi Body Butter’s whipped texture makes moisturizing with uber hydrators Brazilian murumuru and bacuri butter an ultra-luxe ritual. $38, colleenrothschild.com 03 Infused with antioxidant-rich coffee seed oil and green tea, as well as mango and shea butters, Jordan Samuel Skin Granita di Caffè Body Scrub leaves skin soft and polished. $34, jordansamuelskin.com
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+ PA RT 2:
When upper pole fullness in the breasts is lost and they begin to succumb to gravity due to aging or post-pregnancy, a breast enhancement—typically with implants or a lift—can restore their shape and size. “Breast augmentations are frequently performed with silicone gel implants,” says Dr. Grover, “including the round gel style with different profiles and the shaped cohesive gel ‘Gummy Bear’ implants, which some surgeons feel can avoid issues like capsular contraction.”
LIFT + RESHAPE For breast lifts, Dr. Grover says the technique used can vary based on the patient’s needs. “Some breast lifts are performed with a doughnut technique, in which an incision is made around the nipple, while others require a lollipop technique, and some require an anchor scar incision. This depends on how much skin needs to be tailored and how much the nipple should be raised.”
A F T E R
Implants aren’t the only option to restore the breasts: Some patients opt for a reduction, fat transfer or a lift instead. “I do a lot of short-scar breast reductions and breast augmentations with fat grafting for more natural-looking results,” adds Dr. Preminger. A breast augmentation with fat transfer involves an extra step of doing liposuction first to take fat from other parts of the body, which is then used to inject into the breasts. “This is a good option for women who are looking for a relatively small increase in size.”
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The Anti-Gravity Bust Enhancer
This 37-year-old patient sought Dr. Grover for a breast lift with silicone gel implants, and a tummy tuck for a flatter torso.
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]
Extra Curriculars For a full-body transformation, many times a third, fourth or even fifth procedure can be added to maximize operating and recovery times, as well as results. RADIO-FREQUENCY FAT REDUCTION Dr. Preminger commonly recommends BodyTite, a radio-frequency fat-reduction modality that has some skin-tightening benefits, too. Dr. Grover says he uses Renuvion to treat areas like the thighs and arms without having to perform a full arm lift or thigh lift. Although, it is important to note that plastic surgeons have mixed feelings about the extent of improvement and reliability of these procedures. NONINVASIVE TREATMENTS Fat-freezing CoolSculpting is a great option for body contouring and targeting small areas; Emsculpt and CoolTone are effective for building and toning muscle. “Kybella—a series of fat-reduction injections—can also be used off-label in small areas other than the chin,” adds Dr. Preminger. Dr. Singer notes that Kybella results can be unpredictable, and patients should be aware that its use to treat small pockets of fat on the body cannot yield the same results as a conservatively performed liposuction treatment.
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VAGINAL REJUVENATION
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This popular post-baby procedure extends below the waist. “We have seen an uptick in labiaplasty to reduce the size or correct the shape of the labia minora and majora in combination with Mommy Makeovers,” says Scottsdale, AZ plastic surgeon Bryan Gawley, MD. “When combined with a noninvasive vaginal laser procedure to help promote new vaginal tissue growth, labiaplasty can improve both aesthetic and functionality, resulting in less dryness and discomfort.”
ARM LIFTS “We have recently seen an increased interest in arm lift surgery,” says Dr. Gawley. “With improved techniques and scar placement, we have been able to slenderize the upper arms while still maintaining a natural look. The combined skin excision and liposuction has been a game changer for patients who have previously tried everything to get more toned-looking arms.” BRAZILIAN BUTT LIFTS “The addition of liposculpture and autologous fat grafting to the Mommy Makeover procedures we offer has really optimized our goal to achieve beautiful, balanced, natural-looking results,” says Dr. Gawley. “In our younger-patient population, we commonly perform gluteal augmentation with autologous fat grafting when appropriate.” Dr. Singer says that, on average, 30 to 50 percent of the fat that is transferred to the buttocks remains in place after surgery. BODYLIFTS With a scar that wraps 360 degrees around the body—the surgery removes large amounts of loose skin—we wouldn’t assume bodylifts were trending. But, not so, says Dr. Preminger, who suggests Americans’ obsession with wellness may be behind the procedure’s popularity spike: “Weight-loss surgeries have become more common, and people are also exercising more regularly and eating better, which also results in weight loss.” “Bodylifts are also safer than ever before,” adds Dr. Sanders. “We now have various means of reducing the chance of blood clots. Liposuction can also be done more safely and extensively, and post-surgery scar treatment has improved vastly, too.”
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WELLNESS
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THE CLEAN TEAM
Five of our Brain Trust members name their favorite “clean” personalcare products
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HEALTHY SMILE
We investigate the hidden connections between oral health and well-being
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SOUL FOOD
Seven subscriptionbased food delivery programs that focus on overall wellness
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When looking at women’s biggest wellness challenges, 44% stress about life, 43% stress about lack of sleep, and 43% stress about finding time for exercise
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Source: Everyday Health
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ROLL CALL
The Clean Team
Hair Care
Nontoxic, toxin-free, organic, clean, green, natural—the differences and nuances behind these labels can be hard to navigate. It’s hard to know where to start when trying to reduce the amount of chemicals we expose our bodies to, but it’s easy to follow in someone else’s footsteps when we know they’ve done the research and tested out all of the options. Here, members of our Brain Trust share the personal care products they use to keep things safe and clean. —Tatiana Bido
Look for hair-care products without parabens, sulfates, coal tar ingredients and propylene glycol.
“I am obsessed with everything about Rahua Shampoo and Conditioner, from their clean ingredients and performance to their natural Palo Santo scent.” $34–$36, rahua.com —Mazz Hanna, Celebrity Manicurist
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The personal-care products five industry experts use to ease their body burden.
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“Hair care is usually the last holdout when people switch their personal-care routines to cleaner alternatives because the results are immediate upon use. If a shampoo or styling product doesn’t work, you see it instantly. Innersense Pure Harmony Hairbath and Pure Inspiration Daily Conditioner made me a believer that clean hair care can deliver! They leave my color alone and provide moisture without weighing my fine, long hair down.” $28–$30, innersensebeauty.com —Elena Severin, The Detox Market
Body Wash
These picks come without questionable chemicals, fragrances, foaming agents and synthetic dyes.
“I have to shower super frequently because I’m always in sweaty studios, so it’s important to me to use something clean and made for my sensitive skin. I’m currently loving Beast Wash for Everyone because it’s really gentle.” $29, getbeast.com —Tess Koenig, Yoga Instructor “I love Dr. Bronner’s Pure Castile Bar Soap. The company is incredible and ethical, and I love supporting it. Their product quality is wonderful—always pure and organic.” $5, drbronner.com —Josh Rosebrook, Founder of Josh Rosebrook Skin and Hair Care
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“I’m always in sweaty studios, so it’s important for me to use something clean and made for my sensitive skin.” —Tess Koenig
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Skin Care
The list of “dirty” ingredients to look out for continues to grow, but the main offenders are sulfates, parabens, phthalates, silicones, petroleum, drying alcohol, chemical screens, synthetic fragrance, synthetic dyes, mineral oil, and PEGs.
“Josh Rosebrook’s Nutrient Day Cream with SPF 30 was the first non-chemical lightweight sunscreen I had ever tried that was undetectable on my skin. I’ve been a loyal wearer ever since that first application three years ago. The sunscreen is non-nano and chemical free.” $50, joshrosebrook.com —Elena Severin
Deodorant
Formulas considered clean are free from aluminum, parabens, propylene glycol, phthalates, triclosan, and silica, and instead, use ingredients like charcoal and baking soda, allowing the body to eliminate toxins naturally. “Baking soda is a common ingredient in natural deodorants, and I simply cannot tolerate it. That all changed once I started using Kopari Coconut Deodorant. The formula glides on easy, which is rare for natural deodorants, and is super effective and gentle on my extra-sensitive skin.” $14, koparibeauty.com —Mazz Hanna
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“For skin care, I found that after making the switch to green beauty, my skin became better than it ever was before. I’m currently crushing on Maya Chia The Straight A Treatment, January Labs Triple Active Reclaiming Serum and African Botanics Retinal Serum.” $125, mayachia.com; $86, januarylabs.com; $200, africanbotanics.com —Lola Gusman, Founder of The Hermes Hippie
“Three of The Detox Market’s bestsellers and my favorites are Piper Wai Activated Charcoal Natural Deodorant Cream, Agent Natuer Holi(stick) No.3 Deodorant and Modern Botany Deodorant, which is nice for a quick spritz and doesn’t stain my clothes.” $12, piperwai.com; $21, agentnatuer.com; $30, thedetoxmarket.com —Elena Severin
Toothpaste
Smile cleansers without major detergents and toxins, including fluoride, saccharin, parabens, sulfates, and propylene glycol, provide a more natural alternative to traditional toothpaste.
“I like Hello Toothpaste. It’s natural and the brand uses sustainable packaging. Plus, they have a good variety of flavors I actually like, which I haven’t found with many other clean toothpaste brands.” $7, hello-products.com —Tess Koenig “My favorite natural toothpaste is XyliWhite by NOW Solutions. It truly keeps my teeth whiter than any toothpaste I’ve ever used. Many conventional toothpastes contain a lot of questionable ingredients I prefer to avoid, and I also find that natural versions taste better.” $5, nowfoods.com —Josh Rosebrook
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Feminine Care
New options for feminine care come without carcinogen exposure and harsh chemicals that can irritate women’s intimate areas and potentially disrupt hormones.
“Lady Suite Botanical Oil helps with ingrown hairs and strengthens the skin around the vulva by nourishing it with botanical oils. This product is a game changer for bathing suit season. HUM Nutrition also just launched Private Party, which helps maintain a healthy pH and microbiome.” $46, ladysuitebeauty.com; $25, humnutrition.com —Elena Severin “My favorite brand for organic tampons is Rael—I like the Organic Cotton Core Tampons. They use certified-organic cotton grown in Texas and also make other great period products. I’m also a huge fan of their Miracle Patch zit stickers.” $7, getrael.com —Mazz Hanna
Nail Polish
Nail brands make it easy for us to know what’s not in their formulas by labeling them according to which harmful ingredients are missing—5-, 7-, 8- and 9-free (and beyond) formulas that omit common toxins. The 10-free formulas contain no formaldehyde, toluene, DBP, formaldehyde resin, camphor, parabens, ethyl tosylamide, xylene, acetone, TPHP, TBHP, or gluten.
“ORLY is my ride-or-die clean nail polish brand. Its formulas are super clean with amazing colors, they apply easily, and they last for over a week without chipping.” $10, orlybeauty.com —Mazz Hanna
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“Londontown Lakur is 16-free, has a great color selection and really lasts.” $16, londontownusa.com —Lola Gusman
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HEALTHY
There’s a reason why we are wired to find a pretty smile attractive: There are hidden— and scientifically proven—connections between oral health and overall well-being. These solutions can give both a boost.
by Tatiana Boncompagni
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“Science shows that oral health can be a good indicator of general health.” —Dr. Odiatu
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“Our mouth is our first line of defense.”
When Dale Carnegie published his seminal book, How to Win Friends and Influence People, among his six simple tips for becoming more likable was to smile. Since then, sociologists and psychologists have been busy studying the power of the smile, cataloging how it can make us appear prettier or more competent at work. But aside from upping our social or professional standing, there’s another, oftenoverlooked, reason to care about our teeth and gums: our overall health.
“Everyday people often see a nice smile as something that makes a nice selfie,” says Toronto cosmetic dentist Uche Odiatu, DMD. “But, science shows that oral health can be a good indicator of general health. A mouth in poor condition has been linked to everything from cardiovascular disease to Alzheimer’s, and even infertility,” he says, referencing an Australian study that revealed women with gum disease took two months longer to conceive than women with excellent oral health. A healthy smile is also an important part of total-body wellness and as integral to our well-being as sleep, exercise and diet, argue dentists. As Rockville, MD cosmetic dentist Joseph Kravitz, DMD says, “The mouth is connected to the rest of the body.” In other words, unlike Las Vegas, what happens in the mouth doesn’t just stay there.
Turn to page 145 to find one near you.
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—Dr. Maddahi
Did You Know?
Saliva is made of 99 percent water, with a complex mix of proteins, vitamins, minerals, hormones, and small traces of other substances, like food, drinks and toothpaste.
The Stakes According to a Swedish study, research subjects with the most extreme cases of gum disease had more than double the risk of having a heart attack. The culprit? Endotoxins, secreted by the bacteria present underneath the diseased gum tissue, “enter the bloodstream and attack rough surfaces in the body such as the heart, valves and vessels,” Dr. Kravitz explains. Gum disease has also been associated with diabetes and some kinds of cancer. If that’s not enough to send you running for your floss, there’s yet another reason to up your oral hygiene game: It can keep you from getting sick. The mouth, just like the gut and your skin, has a microbiome of its own. It’s made up of millions of strains of bacteria that play a role in our immunity by preventing bad bacteria and viruses from colonizing in our mouth, says Beverly Hills, CA cosmetic dentist Kourosh Maddahi, DDS. “Our mouth is our first line of defense,” says Dr. Maddahi.
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The Hygiene Protocol
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Most people brush twice a day, and a growing number (30 percent!) of millennials brush only once a day, one study found. That’s not nearly enough, says Dr. Kravitz, who tells his patients to brush five to seven times a day, and brush the front and backs of teeth, the tongue, inside of cheeks and top of the mouth, or palate. But, “brush softly,” he warns. Overzealous brushing can lead to gum recession and enamel wear. Chevy Chase, MD cosmetic dentist Claudia Cotca, DDS recommends brushing 15 to 30 minutes after eating, and using an electronic toothbrush— the Oral B Professional Series is her favorite—to control soft but effective brushing. And for those still using alcohol-based mouthwash, it’s time to stop, says Dr. Maddahi. They can be harmful to the microbiome of the mouth.
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Flossing daily (at least) is also key, adds Dr. Odiatu. The American Dental Association reported that only 16 percent of people floss daily, and 20 percent floss only when they have something stuck between their teeth. And last, many dentists encourage their patients to get cleanings three—rather than the standard two—times a year to keep gums and teeth healthy.
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The Oral Health Diet Another motivation to eat healthy? The foods we eat impact the pH level of our mouths. We all know sugar can lead to cavities and soda can wear down the enamel of teeth, but Dr. Maddahi says “the hormones in meat and dairy products, as well as the chemicals in artificial sweeteners, can also negatively impact the mouth microbiome.” All the more reason to fill our plates with alkalizing foods such as kale, broccoli, cabbage and other colorful veggies, as well as beans and whole grains. They can help balance more acidic foods like meat and fruit juices. A low pH in the mouth (your dentist can check yours) has been linked to bad breath, an unbalanced microbiome and other problems. Toothpastes like Twice, which are designed to balance the pH of the mouth and deliver antioxidants and soothing aloe vera, can help regulate bacteria and reduce risk of inflammation. Dr. Cotca, meanwhile, advises patients to sip room-temperature water during mealtimes to keep food particles from adhering to teeth and improve digestion, as metabolism starts in the mouth. Another tip? Take a short pause once your meal is in front of you, before you start to eat. This allows the mouth to fill with saliva, which helps break down food to allow the body to absorb the nutrients.
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Smile Support 01 Eco-friendly and flouride-free, Terra & Co. Brilliant Black Dental Floss is made with bamboo fiber, activated charcoal and coconut oil, and helps remove plaque buildup in even the tightest spots. $10, terraandco.com 02 The day and night toothpastes from Twice contain vitamins A, C and E to help fight free radicals, strengthen gums, promote collagen production, and maintain good bacteria levels for a healthy mouth. $14 for both, smiletwice.com 03 Colgate Optic White Advanced LED Whitening Device makes at-home whitening easy with a hydrogen peroxide serum and LED-powered whitening tray. Ten consecutive 10-minute applications over a 10-day period are advised for best results. $145, colgate.com 04 Lumineux Oral Essentials Oral Microbiome Kit comes with a toothpaste and mouthwash formulated to freshen breath and neutralize odor-causing toxins while maintaining the good bacteria in your mouth. The bonus: an organicchic toothbrush. $45, oralessentials.com
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DELIVERY DIETS
Soul Food One thing we learned while staying at home: the power of food delivery, and we’re not talking pizza. There’s a great big world of farm-to-your-door, subscription-based programs out there that focus on overall wellness, making it easier than ever for us to fuel our bodies with nutrient-dense ingredients and mouthwatering recipes. These seven top our list. —Brittany Burhop Fallon
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Sakara Life @sakaralife
N E W B E A U T Y. C O M
Whitney Tingle and Danielle Duboise, cofounders and co-CEOs of Sakara Life, believe in the power of food as medicine, and base their ready-to-eat, plant-based meals on that credo. “We grew up in Sedona, which is the mecca of mind-body-food connection,” says the duo. “We knew people who ‘ate sunshine,’ and our moms used to give us chlorella tablets as kids.”
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A mix of ancient nutrition customs (think macrobiotics and Ayurveda) and modern science make up the brand’s 9 Pillars of Nutrition, and popular recipes include the Chia + Coconut Protein Waffles and Five Herb Pesto Pasta. If you want more than just good meals, Sakara’s Clean Boutique offers everything from supplements to tea, and limited-edition collaborations with brands like Dr. Barbara Sturm and Tata Harper take “beauty nutrition” to the next level. Plans starting at $25 per day, sakara.com
EXPERT INSIGHT “A good starting point is to consider which meals you struggle with most,” says nutritionist Jennifer Hanway. “If you never find time for a healthy breakfast, then a smoothie delivery subscription could be great for you, or if you struggle with a balanced meal in the evenings because you work late, then a program offering lunch and evening meals would be better.”
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Purple Carrot @purplecarrot
For those who want to learn how to cook, or those who already have skills in the kitchen but want to make nutritious, balanced meals in 45 minutes or less, Purple Carrot fits the bill. The program encourages people to not only eat more plants for their health, but also the health of the planet, as meal kits have a smaller carbon footprint than equivalent meals bought from a grocery store. Each week, you receive fresh ingredients and a detailed recipe book for breakfast, lunch and dinner (there are also snacks)— two of the most sought-after meals include Japanese Gnocchi with Miso Tomato Butter & Nori Spice, and Beet Burgers with Smoky Tomato Aioli & Potato Wedges. Only a few additional ingredients are needed from your pantry, and most of them are household staples, such as olive oil. Plans starting at $72 per week, purplecarrot.com
EXPERT INSIGHT “One thing I love about these types of programs is the nutrient density and variety of ingredients included, which is key to boosting gut health, preventing food sensitivities, and ensuring we are getting adequate antioxidants and phytonutrients,” says Hanway. “At the grocery store, many of these ingredients can typically be cost-prohibitive—or you cannot buy them in small quantities—especially if you are making meals for just yourself.”
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“One benefit of these programs is that you get exposure to foods that perhaps you wouldn’t have tried before, so maybe it will open your mind to a new recipe, superfood or something else,” says nutritionist Brooke Alpert.
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Daily Harvest @dailyharvest
Tired of calling a handful of trail mix her lunch, founder Rachel Drori went on a mission to eat healthy, delicious food without spending an entire day meal-prepping. What resulted is Daily Harvest: pre-portioned, frozen foods packed with organic fruits and veggies picked at their nutritional peak and frozen on the farm within 24 hours. What began as smoothies has grown into a robust assortment, including soups, bowls, bites and more, plus two new additions: flatbreads made with cauliflower, broccoli and sweet potato crust, and plant-based ice cream. You can choose how many items you want to receive in each order—9, 12 or 24—and how often— weekly or monthly—with the ability to switch things up along the way. Items starting at $6, dailyharvest.com
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04 Hungryroot @hungryroot If you’re like me and you enter the grocery store with the best of intentions but leave with a bag full of snacks, Hungryroot can help get you on the right track with its personalized, modern approach to grocery shopping. Here’s how it works: Fill out a questionnaire describing your preferences— vegan, gluten-free, pescatarian, tree nut–free, etc.—and the brand will select (or you can choose) a well-rounded variety of groceries for you to cook meals with during the week in 10 minutes or less. Fan-favorites are the Black Bean Brownie Batter, Cashew Cheddar, Thai Peanut Sauce and Chickpea Almond Cookie Dough, and let me tell you, they do not disappoint. Plans starting at $60 per week, hungryroot.com
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“A good-quality subscription food delivery program takes all the guesswork out of making healthy choices.”
S U M M E R – F A L L 2020
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—Brooke Alpert
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Splendid Spoon @splendidspoon
For those who want to grab and go but keep it healthy, Splendid Spoon’s plant-based smoothies, soups, wellness shots and grain bowls make it possible. Vegan, as well as gluten-, dairy- and soyfree, each of the 40-plus recipes— crowd pleasers are the Cauliflower Tikka and Coconut Curry Rice Bowls, and Raspberry Cacao Smoothie—is made with fresh fruits, veggies and high-fiber proteins, and ready to eat. “We offer accessible, nutritious fare to everyday Americans,” says founder and CEO Nicole Centeno, a French Culinary Institute– trained chef. “We want them to know they can still achieve a wellness-driven lifestyle with a 9-to-5 job and the daily demands of life.” Plans starting at $65 per week, splendidspoon.com
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EXPERT INSIGHT “I think it’s important to only subscribe Monday through Friday, or take breaks, as I don’t like for people to become disconnected to choosing, preparing and eating their own food,” says Hanway.
Remedy 06 Urban @urbanremedy Neka Pasquale didn’t set out to create a meal plan business—her acupuncture and Chinese medicine practice led her there after discovering the healing power of foods and seeing patients’ “life-changing results” in the wellness retreats she led. Urban Remedy’s ready-to-eat meals aim to revitalize the body and refocus cravings by eliminating common inflammatory foods like white sugar and dairy. “Down to our salt, every ingredient is chosen for its healing benefits,” Pasquale says. A variety of shakes, juices, bowls, wraps and salads—the Soba Noodles are particularly tasty—the plans come in three- or five-day options, or one-day “reset” cleanses, and some are even curated and inspired by supermodels Kate Upton and Cindy Crawford. Plus, you can now also find several items at Whole Foods. Plans starting at $155, urbanremedy.com
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Eat Sunny @eatsunnylife
Dreamed up by a wellness and beauty writer in partnership with an executive chef, Eat Sunny creates meals much like a cosmetic chemist formulates a skin-care cream—just like hyaluronic acid’s ability to nourish the skin, foods with antioxidants, probiotics, fiber and protein can nourish the body. The hearty, ready-to-eat vegetarian and flexitarian meals—the Grass-fed Beef Ramen with Veggie Noodles and Stuffed Sweet Potato are top picks— include anti-inflammatory spices and beautifying extras like collagen, biotin, spirulina and adaptogenic powders. The brand is also the first of its kind to focus on distributing through plastic surgery and dermatology offices, and is endorsed by doctors recommending it to patients as a way for them to prepare for or heal from aesthetic procedures. Plans starting at $189, eatsunny.com
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N E W B E A U T Y. C O M
|
S U M M E R - F A L L 2020
Welcome to our expert guide The best aesthetic results start with well-informed decisions. This guide includes the top doctors from coast to coast and tells you what you need to know in order to choose the right expert for the right procedure.
Know Before You Go
Doctors In Your Area
The National Doctors
DOCTORS the top
Specialties:
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plastic and facial plastic surgery
oculoplastic surgery
dermatology
hair restoration
cosmetic dentistry
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Introducing the 2020 Top Doctor Seal It’s your face, your body, your skin, your smile. As the beauty authority, NewBeauty magazine advises you to make educated decisions when it comes to the treatments you receive and the board-certified doctors who perform them. When choosing a board-certified plastic surgeon, facial plastic surgeon, dermatologist, oculoplastic, or a cosmetic dentist, look for this seal. Every NewBeauty top doctor has been vetted and is properly certified to perform the cosmetic treatments detailed on the following pages. N E W B E A U T Y. C O M
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THE NE W NORMAL
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A comprehensive guide to navigating beauty treatments safely in the COVID-19 era.
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The Next Chapter for
AESTHETICS What the industry learned, how it adapted and why patient safety is paramount after COVID-19.
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The Next Chapter for Aesthetics: How COVID-19 Changed Cosmetic Treatments Forever
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It’s been a long few months, and it’s no secret that the aesthetic industry was hit especially hard by the pandemic. As offices temporarily closed, staffs were put on hold and patients flooded the phone lines to inquire when they could come back for their next appointment, the industry—and world— essentially shut down. There’s been some bad, like curbside treatments and Drive-Thru injectables that got a big thumbs down from all of the doctors we spoke to; and some good, like ventilator initiatives and doctors donating their time and skills on the front lines. And above all, there’s been time to talk, listen, learn and adapt. We’ve been listening, too, which is why we’ve been working hard to create this special section dedicated to our “new normal.” Born out of industry feedback and fueled by months-long discussions with top board-certified doctors, esteemed societies, partnering organizations, and our one-of-a-kind Brain Trust, we aggregated these guidelines to put patient safety first and, ultimately, make sure they know what to expect and that their comfort level is secure as the industry reopens. This is the power of the pivot.
For up-to-date information, developments and top doctors’ insight, visit newbeauty.com
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“ The Aesthetic Society is dedicated to supporting the industry and its consumers during the unique challenges of the COVID-19 crisis. With growing patient concern, particularly as we resume elective procedures, we want to ensure that patients and physicians are educated on safety protocols and prepared in this evolving landscape.” —Herluf G. Lund, MD, President of The Aesthetic Society
Table of Contents 9 Ways Aesthetic Appointments Will Change
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The amount of funds The Federal Communications Commission (FCC) has devoted to the COVID-19 Telehealth Program to support doctors in expanding telehealth services to their patients
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THE TOP NINE
Here’s how our future cosmetic treatment appointments will look a little bit different: If there is one thing we’ve learned from our response to the COVID-19 outbreak, it’s that we, as a society, are very adaptable. In what seemed like a blink of an eye we saw the world as we know it shift around us. Hugs, handshakes, high-fives, lunchrooms and break rooms are now forever changed, and we now have, in every aspect of our lives, a much larger focus on cleanliness and sterility with clinical acumen. While we may desire to go back to how things “used to be,” the reality is that moving forward, the only way we will be able to resume our normal lives is to make big changes that will make everything from our routine skin checks to our twice-yearly dental cleanings a whole new experience.
1 2 3 Virtual Consultations Are the “New Normal”
For many patients, initial visits and consultations moved to Zoom and FaceTime during quarantine. (Interestingly enough, an article published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology pinpoints the concept of teledermatology originating 25 years ago.) Moving forward, many doctors we spoke to said they preferred to continue the practice of telemedicine to limit the risk of exposure to the virus—some even said they would move select acne consultations and respective follow-up appointments to be totally “tele,” as it helped them see a greater number of patients in a shorter amount of time.
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Your Visits May Be Contactless and Touchless
In order to streamline doctor visits and limit time in public areas, paperwork and payment may need to be completed prior to your visit. Patients may be asked to wait outside the doctor’s office until notified they may enter. Upon entry they will be taken directly to a private treatment room.
The End of the Waiting Room All of the doctors we spoke to said patients should also be prepared to attend their appointment alone unless a secondary person is medically necessary. Appointments will be spaced out further, too, to give staff adequate time to properly disinfect surfaces in between each patient.
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THE TOP NINE
Here’s how our future cosmetic treatment appointments will look a little bit different:
4 5 6 You Will Have Your Temperature Taken
Patients’ temperatures will be taken at the door and pre-screening questions will be asked about whether or not you’ve been around anyone who has been exposed to the virus. If a patient has a fever or does not meet the pre-screening criteria, they may be asked to reschedule their appointment until all criteria has been met.
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You May Need a COVID-19 Nasal Swab Test
Not Every Treatment May Be on the Menu
Before seeking an elective treatment, some clinics and hospitals may require a negative polymerase chain reaction (PCR) swab COVID-19 test anywhere from two weeks to two days prior to surgery, depending on their doctor’s specific guidelines. Patients may be asked to quarantine themselves between the test and procedure date.
can potentially create aerosolized virus, such as ablative laser procedures, may not be performed at your doctor’s office right now. Additionally, any procedure that involves hospitalization, which can also increase a patient’s chances of coming in contact with the virus, may be postponed. Specialists who work intimately with the eyes, nose and mouth, like dentists, dermatologists, plastic surgeons and facial plastic surgeons, may take extra precautions with strict N95 mask use and whatever guidelines are in place for their particular institution.
S ome treatments that
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40�
of consumers admit to now washing their hands six to 10 times a day
Source: Cosmetics Business
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THE TOP NINE
Here’s how our future cosmetic treatment appointments will look a little bit different:
7 8 9 Your Procedure May Have to Wait
Patients who are considered high risk, like those with a preexisting condition or those of advanced age may be asked to postpone from undergoing an elective procedure to avoid further risk of infection.
Your Doctor Will Have New Methods of Sterilization
In addition to wearing personal protective equipment (PPE), like full-disposable gowns, face shields and level-three masks, some dentists are investing in a high-volume suction device to remove any aerosol particles in the air while performing dental procedures. Other doctors we spoke to say they are using HEPA/UV filters now or are disinfecting with germicidal ultraviolet technology. Although there is no evidence that ultraviolet C light kills the coronavirus, studies have shown that 15 minutes of UVC exposure has killed similar viruses.
You Can Help Keep Things Safe and Clean As we move forward and cities, states and doctors’ offices reopen across the country, the doctors we spoke to want to encourage patients to work with them to help minimize patient risk. Start by being respectful of everyone’s social-distancing wishes, practice good hand hygiene, and wear a mask when possible.
“ It’s important to note that now, more than ever, it’s vital to make sure the provider you go to is board-certified and practicing within scope. While extreme safety measures are being taken by reputable providers, without this important step, you’re putting your health and outcome at risk.” —La Jolla, CA plastic surgeon and past president of The Aesthetic Society Robert Singer, MD
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$8.2B
Americans spent nearly $8.2 billion on both surgical and nonsurgical procedures in 2019 Source: The Aesthetic Society
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Top doctors across the country share the new safety initiatives they’re implementing to keep their practices safe and sterile.
“We are sending all of our surgical patients for COVID-19 testing before their surgery. We’re also pre-screening all of our nonsurgical patients for any signs of illness before admitting them to the office.”
“Prior to COVID, I was a big handshaker and touched many patients during the skin exam, as surface changes of the skin that are felt, not seen, may show more than the eye can see. Now, after washing my hands, I may give an elbow bump for camaraderie, but I also want to respect the patient’s social-distancing wishes. I will also be asking patients if it’s OK before I touch their faces.”
—Palo Alto, CA facial plastic surgeon David Lieberman, MD
“We’re using state-of-the-art HEPA/UV filters now, which filters the smaller particles associated with COVID-19. If you’re turning the air over 10 or 12 times an hour, you’re basically picking up smaller and smaller particles each time, and this system makes it safer.” —New York cosmetic dentist Jason Kasarsky, DDS
—Oklahoma City dermatologist Kimberly Jerdan, MD
“We’ve always had systems in place to mitigate the spread of any disease, but due to the extremely contagious nature of COVID-19, we have been even more diligent. Our reception room setting complies with social distancing, we check the temperature of every patient prior to their procedure, we use high-volume suction devices, and we fog the office with an antiseptic solution twice a day. All of our staff have been tested for the virus, and are wearing fully disposable gowns, face shields and masks at all times.” —New York cosmetic dentist Nargiz Schmidt, DDS
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“We have eliminated extra furniture, décor and everything on surfaces in the interest of being able to thoroughly disinfect between patients and throughout the day.” —Houston dermatologist Jennifer Segal, MD
“We are advising all patients who have answered ‘yes’ to any of our pre-screening questions and feel they may be at higher risk of COVID-19 to withhold from seeking elective procedures at this time.” —Palo Alto, CA plastic surgeon David Boudreault, MD
“We are disinfecting with germicidal ultraviolet technology. Ultraviolet C (UVC), is one of the three types of rays given off by the sun. Though research into its safety around humans still needs to be explored, it has been shown to be effective against previous strains of coronaviruses. We currently use this modality to disinfect our facilities after hours, as well as protective equipment.”
“Wait times will be almost eliminated entirely, as patients will be notified when they can enter the office via text. We will be sending our patients straight into the treatment room, where they will stay until it’s time to check out. Both paperwork and payment will be completed in the exam rooms.”
—New York oculoplastic surgeon Irene Gladstein, MD
—New York dermatologist Marina Peredo, MD
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Doctors’ Offices of the Future: While all reputable doctors are taking extra safety precautions during this time, Eugene, OR plastic surgeon and past president of The Aesthetic Society Mark Jewell, MD says, that in conjunction with The Aesthetic Society COVID-19 Taskforce, these are the “universal precautions” we can expect for anything related to aesthetic treatments.
Before any procedure, pre-screening will be paramount: Patients will be screened for COVID-19 before they come into the office. Not only will patients be tested pre-op, but ideally, the staff will also be tested. Pre-screening questions will include health and travel inquiries with questions like these: Do you have a fever? Are you feeling sick, or have you been around anyone sick? Have you been traveling? The bottom line: Your doctors wants to make sure you are feeling well and healthy enough for the procedure, for your own well-being. The day of surgery, there will be an extra level of checks: If you feel sick prior to your appointment, you are advised to cancel. You will be asked to complete a COVID-19 attestation form, and the same level of care will go for any good injectable provider. When you arrive, you will be asked to wash your hands, check your temperature and wear a mask. Most forms for new patients will be paperless and sent to be filled out digitally prior to arrival. In some cases, consent forms will still be filled out in the office or clinic for surgeries and injectables. In some cases, you may be asked to wait in your car or outside before being called or texted to come in. All doctors, staff and patients will be wearing masks at all times.
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Bonus Round: Staff Safety What doctors and their staffs are doing behind-the-scenes is equally as important to keeping everyone healthy, stopping the spread and enhancing safety protocols. Here’s what top doctors told us make up their new daily to-do lists:
Do not come to work if you are not feeling well and have a temperature and/or a cough. Have your temperature taken when arriving at work, and have each staff member check their temperature as well. Wash your hands for at least 20 seconds—the CDC recommendation—upon arrival at work. Put on surgical scrub outfits that were washed the night before (they will be washed nightly). Wear a face mask at all times, and gloves, too, when interacting with patients. Practice social distancing in the workplace as work duties permit. Work with staff to make sure work surfaces and exam rooms remain clean and disinfected.
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LES SON S FROM A PANDEMIC:
8 Things We Learned From the Outbreak While things may never be the same, maybe they weren’t supposed to be. Here, the stories that dominated our headlines during our ongoing reporting about the COVID-19 outbreak and its effects on the aesthetic industry.
01 02 Virtual Visits Became the New Consultations
Vitamin C Is Not a Magic Potion
The biggest story post shutdown was the rise of telemedicine. The high convenience factor and the privacy involved with never leaving your bedroom allowed patients to see if a procedure or treatment was right for them before committing to an in-person consultation. However, virtual visits can’t replace a traditional faceto-face consultation, and a proper physical assessment is ultimately required by a surgeon to determine whether the patient is a good candidate for surgery, and to make final recommendations on the type of procedure that will be best.
Despite news reports revealing early efforts from doctors on the front lines to use high dosages of vitamin C as a form of treatment, researchers who studied the effects of highdose intravenous vitamin C on the coronavirus found there was no data to support the notion that it could prevent or treat COVID-19. The Federal Bureau of Investigation also cracked down on doctors and clinics offering the supplement as a “preventive” measure for performing fraudulent COVID-19 treatments.
Virtual Reality During a virtual visit, ask the same questions you would in a face-to-face meeting: Q: Will this procedure achieve the changes I'm looking for? Q: What does the process involve from start to finish? Q: Is this procedure going to require local or general anesthesia? Q: What’s the recovery time associated with it? Q: What can and can’t I do after surgery? Q: What’s a realistic time frame I need to account for in terms of healing?
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The number of breast augmentations performed last year, making it one of the top-five surgical procedures for women Source: The Aesthetic Society
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03 04 05 Elective Procedures Are Not Essential
In some states, including Texas and Washington, government officials ordered the postponement of all nonessential procedures that required medical professionals to wear protective equipment. Some hospitals were required to reserve at least 25-percent or half of their capacity for COVID-19 patients, and elective surgeries were only permitted when they did not deplete PPE supplies.
COVID-19 Patients May Develop Skin Conditions
In addition to a fever, sore throat and cough (among other symptoms), mysterious skin rashes have been identified on certain patients with the coronavirus. Some manifestations are stress reactions, like flares of acne, hives and stress-shedding of hair. Some rashes look like chicken pox; viral rashes, like the ones dubbed “Covid Toes,” present as violetcolored skin changes of the toes. Doctors in the U.S. have been actively collecting data on the numbers of patients who test positive for COVID-19 and have had these skin conditions. In Italy, doctors noted that about 20 percent of patients with the infection had some form of skin finding.
The Threat of “Maskne” Is Real In addition to the COVID-19 outbreak, dermatologists have been helping patients deal with a different kind of outbreak, the maskne breakout. This trending type of acne can be caused by preexisting skin conditions lurking underneath a mask, like acne, rosacea and even melasma, but other issues like contact irritant dermatitis, heat rash and folliculitis have been problematic as people continue to wear masks for prolonged periods of time. There is also a possibility of developing textile dermatitis if the mask or elastic is too tight. This can cause bruising or irritation when worn for long periods. High sensitivity, redness and inflammation are common concerns seen with frontline healthcare workers.
According to Allergan, during 2019, BOTOX Cosmetic net revenues experienced an increase of 9.3 percent from 2018—which means a lot of people were missing their injectables during the stay-at-home orders. “Many studies have shown that patients who receive botulinum toxin feel better about themselves,” says Denver dermatologist Joel L. Cohen, MD. “It helps with self-esteem and self-perception, and helps convey inner positive emotions more appropriately.”
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06 07 08 Some Treatments Are Worth Waiting For
Zoom Meetings Prompt Facial Treatments
Curbside Skin-Care Gains Momentum
The case of the Miami Drive-Thru injectable clinic that opened during COVID is another example of the old adage: Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should. Although neurotoxin injections may seem like a harmless procedure a qualified doctor can perform just about anywhere, that’s not the case says the expert injectors we spoke with. While there are always risks associated with every injectable procedure, many doctors felt that a DriveThru clinic devalues and undermines the safety and care standards they strive to uphold in their sterile clinics. As many injectors pointed out, there is an increased concern about the potential for reactions, such as a vasovagal attack in which the patient can develop a severe hypotension, may become unconscious, have muscle jerks or may injure themselves. Plus, the lighting outside is not the same as in an office.
The sudden surge of video conferencing during the COVID-19 pandemic has led to growing concerns about one’s facial appearance while on video conference applications. In a survey published in Facial Plastic Surgery & Aesthetic Medicine, the majority of subjects reported a concerning facial area, with the most common feature being the nose. Of the subjects who did not have any prior facial cosmetic treatments, 40.6 percent said they planned to pursue a facial treatment based on their video conference appearance alone.
While patients adopted hobbies like a new fitness challenge or sourdough bread baking, skin care also became a huge focus during isolation. Doctors reported a surge in patients who—quite simply—couldn’t be without their regular skin care, not even for a second. Patients began calling in to order their products, paying by credit card and collecting their much needed skin care from their doctors’ offices, who had them ready at the curb for pickup.
“ I t is impossible to perform advanced injectable techniques through an automobile window space with accuracy, especially if you are a 6-foot-tall injector and your patient is in a Porsche. For the most precise treatment outcome, it should be performed in a clinical setting.”
“ Most of our clientele have their favorites already, so they have been taking advantage of the curbside pickup sales and stocking up. We have seen an increase mostly in peels and treatments for hyperpigmentation. I think it’s mainly because, right now, everyone is staying inside and avoiding the sun.” —Pasadena, CA plastic surgeon Lily Lee, MD
—Dr. Jewell
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SPF moisturizer, silicone-free moisturizer, aloe vera lotion, and alphahydroxy body lotion were the most popular searches among “moisturizing products” during the stay-at-home order Source: Spate
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Future Findings During the pandemic, statistics issued by the American Society of Plastic Surgeons proved that Americans’ perceptions of plastic surgery in the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic was decidedly positive. The survey reported that 49 percent of those who had not had plastic surgery indicated being open to cosmetic or reconstructive surgery in the future, with 28 percent of respondents considering a first-time cosmetic procedure. Improved overall confidence was reported by those who had previous procedures, and 29 percent of respondents indicated they were interested in specific treatments. So, what will people get next? Only time will tell, but The Aesthetic Society offers these predictions for the year out.
PREDICTIONS:
Return of the Facelift Patients are realizing that injectable treatments enhance, but do not replace, surgical treatments for the aging face. The most effective, most natural, most long-lasting, and overall most cost-effective treatment for facial aging remains a well-performed facelift and necklift. The Daddy Do-Over Daddy Do-Over procedures are the male counterparts to Mommy Makeovers, and will rise in 2020. Consisting of surgical and nonsurgical body contouring and facial procedures, they are typically performed in a single combination surgery. Although men do not go through the same physical changes women experience during and after pregnancy, their lifestyle changes can impact their appearance. Noninvasive Tech Advances Expect a windfall of innovation among noninvasive and minimally invasive aesthetic treatments. With continued advancements in nonsurgical techniques, plastic surgeons are capable of improving patient outcomes. “Baby Botox� This refers to the use of targeted micro-injections of a neurotoxin to achieve a more natural, subtle look. Gen Z Entering the Aesthetic Market Those born in the late 1990s and early 2000s grew up as online natives and look to social media for beauty trends, comparing themselves to their online cohorts. Despite social channels banning plastic surgery filter apps, Gen Z continues to favor social media to find a plastic surgeon and research aesthetic procedures.
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Pre-Treatment Checklist: What to Know Before Your First Visit Back Call in advance to ask about your doctor’s mask and disinfection policy before your first appointment. If you have any questions or concerns about potential risks, it’s better to inquire beforehand so that you and your physician are prepared and on the same page before your arrival.
Make sure your insurance and payment information is up to date prior to your appointment. Many practitioners are asking patients to scan and/or email relevant documents beforehand to reduce the amount of contact. Now is the time to ask about financing options, too, so that the face-to-face time you have with your doctor is maximized and spent on your treatment.
If you are accustomed to having an additional person accompany you to your appointments, make sure to clear it with your doctor’s office in advance. They may request documentation that shows it is medically necessary.
To help maintain realistic expectations, ask to see the doctor’s recent beforeand-after photos of your chosen procedure. Also be sure to ask for a list of the other treatments that were performed with each case, as these can greatly impact the overall outcome.
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The Next Chapter for Aesthetics: How COVID-19 Changed Cosmetic Treatments Forever
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While all the information presented here was accurate as we went to press, the COVID-19 situation is ever-evolving, and we recommend keeping up to date at newbeauty.com, which features state-by-state guidance, as well as various government and local resources. One thing is certain: We are ready to get back to our aesthetic treatments, and ethically concerned doctors are doing everything they can to make sure we can do so safely.
For up-to-date information, breaking news and a full list of state-by-state developments, visit newbeauty.com
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6/24/20 1:21 PM