From the Editor’s Desk I scream, you scream, we all scream: Jeans! Legend has it that in (almost) any country at any given day, at least half of every group of 100 people walking by will be wearing jeans. So what makes jeans a universal favourite? The answer cannot be defined for it is that comfortable feeling you get when you are in one. I believe for every human on the planet, there is a perfect pair of jeans. And it is because of this love, I present the first edition of Genes of Jeans. This issue starts with some trivial facts about our jeans. We then deep dive into what really goes into making and maintaing a single pair of jeans. The question must be asked: What is ‘The Real Cost’? We consider the environmental and human costs involved. We then progress into an exclusive interview with London’s first craft jeans maker: Blackhorse Lane Ateliers. With sustainability as the key philosophy, the brand discourages customers from buying more than one pair of jeans and offers lifetime repair services. Our main question of this issue is: ‘To wash or not to wash?’. When it comes to jeans there have been many answers to this question. We don’t just break down when to wash but also how to wash, dry and iron a pair. Also look out for some cool waterless laundry hacks, after care tips and how to properly store your jeans follow suit.
INSTA-WATCH Is it possible that you post some great jeans DIY’s and we don’t share?
@chiaroscuro.o
@lila_rabe
We present an interesting yet explicit shoot, as so,e would call it by portraying a private relationship people share with their jeans by capturing some butts in jeans. Do keep a lookout on our well curated list of jeans to shop from. After all jeans is an investment that lasts a lifetime. In the final leg of the issue, we have my favourite piece- 5 things to do with your jeans when going through an emotional turmoil in our lives. We have all been through the ups and downs of life so why not take your jeans on this journey. Read to find out.
@chalet8_diy
A quick repair guide on how to patch a hole. We have all been there and instead of casting that jeans away, it is high time to pick up a needle and DIY. Trust me, I tried and it wasn’t all that tough you guys. Finally a piece that took me some great time in inquiring and then illustrating: a treasure map of all the second hand vintage stores great for a deep denim dive. Don’t worry, our list is not only limited to London but also has some great spots in Brighton, Birmingham and Manchester. Hope you enjoy this piece as much as I did making it. Cheers!
@petramittenzwei
pg 4 10 facts about your jeans.
pg 16 Denim Deposits
pg 6 The real cost of a single pair of jeans.
pg 17 Butts Out- caught some bums in jeans.
pg 26 Our top picks of jeans to invest in. pg 28 How to patch a hole
Get a quick history lesson with these
10 fun facts about your jeans.
1.
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Jeans were invented in 19th century France in a town called Nimes. In French, the word “serge” is used to describe the fabric that jeans are composed from. Thus, jeans’ fabric was originally called “serge de Nimes,” or, for short, “denim.”
2.
Denim became incredibly popular in Europe, especially with sailors from Genoa, Italy. Whenever these sailors were in France they’d visit Nimes and by their “serge de Nimes” in bulk. These sailors bought so much denim that the material quickly became the French nickname for sailors from Genoa, or “jeans.”
3.
The trademark denim blue comes from the historical use of indigo dye, chosen because it is one of the most durable plant colours. Even to-date the industrial, lab-manufactured replacement dye continues to give jeans their unique look because of the way the colour rubs off instead of fading. Therefore, jeans get creases and wear lines we associate them with.
4.
In 1871, the tailor Jacob W.. Davis from Reno in Nevada invented jeans with rivets. Two years later, he patented the design together with one of fabric supplier, Levi Strauss. Thus, Levi Strauss & Co. is rightfully accredited as the creator of jeans as we know them today.
5.
In the 50s, jeans were seen by many as a form of rebellion, leading them to be banned from schools, theatres and restaurants.
6.
US soldiers introduced the world to blue jeans after World War II. Due to demand, local makers soon started replicating the original American design. That’s why jeans from anywhere in the world look the same today.
7.
French stylists MarithÊ Bachellerie and François Girbaud are credited as the inventors of stone washing. Girbaud opened the first retail store in Paris that sold jeans and when the customers started demanding washed jeans, he discovered that pumice stone sped up the process and thus he became one of the first to stonewash jeans.
8.
According to University College London, on any given day nearly half the world is wearing denim.
9.
The most common colour of stitching on jeans is Orange, which was originally done to match the copper rivets that were used to construct Levi jeans.
10.
The smaller pocket inside the front pocket of a pair of jeans was originally designed for a pocket watch. Nowadays, wrist watches are far more popular, but the watch pocket remains on most jeans as a stylistic touch and a nod to their history.
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THE REAL COST
The environmental cost of a single pair of jeans throughout its life cycle.
*As per the following reports:- What my Jeans say about the Garment Industry, FashionRevolution.com - The Life Cycle of a Jean, LevisStrauss.com
WATER
ENERGY
• Cotton production alone requires 2,565 litres of water. This is equal to 17 days of water consumed by one person a day in UK.
• 9 kg of CO2 is alone released in the air during fabric production stage.
• On an average 860 litres of water used in washing a pair of jeans in its entire consumer cycle.
• 34kg of CO2 generated by a conventional washing machine which is similar to taking a car and driving from London to Cambridge (107 km).
CHEMICALS
LAND
• 3kg of chemicals go into a single pair of jeans made in Xintang, China. Lead, Cadmium and Copper have leached into the soil, while Cadmium levels are 128 times above the norm.
• 85% of our clothes are disposed of into landfills where it can take up to 40 years for them to decompose if they contain nylon, or 200 years if they contain polyester.
• Cotton, the fibre used to make denim, is chemical- thirsty too: only 2% of our planet’s land is allocated to cotton crops and it uses 25% of the world’s pesticides and 11% of the world’s insecticides.
• The 4th largest sea in the world, the Aral Sea, disappeared in 2015 as the rivers that flowed into it were diverted to feed cotton crops.
HUMAN • For a jeans priced £25, the workers are paid £1.2. • Garment workers face harsh conditions#:A typical day constitutes of 10-12 working hours Children work at all stages of the supply chain process. Pregnant women often face abuse and discriminatory treatment. The right of workers to form unions is often not recognised and workers who attempt to do so are usually fired. * figures are w.r.t. one pair of Levi’s 501
# conditions faced in the fashion industry as a whole
Jeans TO LIVE
AND
DREAM BY
An exclusive interview with London’s denim retailer Blackhorse Lane Ateliers. Relatively young, Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) started in 2015 and is London’s only craft jeans maker. This progressive company champions sustainability and has their flagship store at Coal Drops Yard, King’s Cross. We chat with them on the brand’s history, philosophy and how it has convinced consumers to buy less and make the most of a pair of jeans.
connection between makers and customers. It led us to consider the connections with a similar democratic item: jeans. As a tailor, Han started assessing different pairs of jeans to discover how he could make them better, and ways to reduce the impact of the denim industry by looking to mills that had policies, strategies and values in place to be better environmentally.
Q. How did the journey of Blackhorse Lane Ateliers begin?
Q. Jeans production is known for being very unfriendly towards the environment. How does the brand try to make its jeans environmentally conscious?
A. When we started Blackhorse Lane Ateliers 4 years ago, we were dissatisfied with fashion’s impact on the environment. Having 30 years of London-based manufacturing experience, it was painful to witness London’s heritage of craft skills and knowledge disappearing.
A. We construct our jeans with techniques that will stand the test of use and time, and use quality denims that have been sourced specifically for their structure, dye retention and beauty. We want to create jeans that can be your one and only, enticing our customers to We believed that there was a huge problem with the purchase just one very good quality item that will see quality of garments. There was a resurgence in craft- them through. Alongside this we offer a free lifetime based beer and bread businesses, with an improved repair guarantee so that our customers will continue 8
to love their jeans rather than abandoning them when they get too worn. By offering a better quality, made to last and connected garment, it is our hope that our customers will look to other items they own and shop for in the same manner.
A. We are working with our Turkish mill ISKO to ensure all of our fabrics from them are woven using organic cotton and produced with GOTS-certified systems. We look to re-purpose our waste where necessary, such as putting them back into our products requiring some problem solving. However we do Q. The brand has been known to discourage the hope that our offcuts can be utilised in denim recyconcept of bulk buying. As a retailer how has cling to make new jeans. We would also love to work that affected the brand’s popularity and profits? on the possibility of a more eco-friendly wash house that is more accessible to small brands and designers, A. There has been a few occasions where customers including us; currently the technology and infrastruchave stated they’ve never found it so difficult to buy ture just isn’t there and right now it is environmentally a pair of jeans before! Generally when a customer en- unstable. ters and they’re explaining how many jeans they have and why they don’t wear them or how holey they are, Q. What does the brand do differently as comwe ask what we can do to fix them so that they’ll wear pared to other competitors that makes each pair them instead of buying our new jeans. The most sus- of its jeans durable and stylish? tainable item of clothing is the one you already have, but if you require a pair of jeans that will outlast all A. We revert to traditional tailoring techniques, which of the cheaper versions, then we’re happy! But if you means looking at the clothes that have already lasted decide to buy a new pair at the same time or in a few decades and assessing how we can incorporate those months (even a year later) we’ll question if you real- details and yet modernise them for our lifestyles now. ly need it. There is no need to be excessive when you By doing this we retain the integrity of a garment, have good quality clothing. honour all of the creativity that went into the initial design all that time ago, and ensure wearers of the garQ. What are some new arenas in sustainability ment will be comfortable and confident. that the brand is currently researching on? 9
“
When thinking about your investment, you have to consider not only the cost to your bank account, but also the environment and human costs.
”
teria you’ve frozen will start to breed again. Denim care points to minimal washing, not only to reduce the environmental impact but to retain the patina in the indigo fades. We like to suggest our customers to wash their jeans when they feel dirty, but where possible to use a refresher spray or hang in their shower room, lowering the affect of water, detergent and heat on volatile indigo and cotton. Q. What are the few things people should keep Q. With a repair service that the brand offers, it in mind while purchasing a pair of jeans? practically makes the jeans last a lifetime. Is that something the brand always wanted to offer and A. Most definitely the fit. We are here to help advise promote? and chat with our customers about that. Every body is different, so we ensure we alter and hem on a per- A. There are jeans brands and other fashion brands sonal level. We want our customers to trust in us and that offer a free repair service, but what we do is repair in their garment, offering them confidence in what other branded denim items as well. This was always at they’re wearing. Raw selvedge denim will always be the core of our beliefs because we want to ensure the costlier than a fast fashion pair, but for instance we clothes you already have and share a connection with offer Turkish denim alongside Japanese denim. Turk- can be loved for longer. ish denim is generally quickly produced on bigger machines, and the mills are right next to the cotton Q. What is the best way in your mind to dispose farms unlike Japan, so jeans made with this denim are or bid farewell to a pair of old jeans? cost less. When thinking about your investment, you have to consider how many other jeans you’ll wear A. We are looking at a take back scheme where we will out in the same time and not only the cost to your repair, update and then resell your existing jeans. With bank account, but also to the environment and people the right attention, there will be someone who wants farming the cotton, dyeing the fabric and making the your jeans for how soft they are or the special patina. garments. Maybe you even have a friend or family member who
is the same size, you could post on Reddit that you Q. What are the common mistakes that consum- have some old raw denim jeans to give away (there’s ers make while taking care of their jeans and a big Denim Head community on there). Failing that, how can they avoid the same? never put it in the bin as they will go straight to the landfill. If the denim is really shot (which we wouldn’t A. We often jokingly get asked if a customer should ever believe, as denim is a strong fabric) put it in a put their jeans in the freezer. This is a no-no and an- textile bin or donate to a charity shop (washed!) as the swered in total seriousness that once the jeans are tak- fabric can be mechanically recycled and re-used. en out of the cold in to room temperature, the bac10
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To Wash or not to wash? Some say, ‘Never have I ever’ , some say every two weeks- Whom to listen? So here we decode everything you need to know about cleaning your jeans and how to keep it in your wardrobe for longer. In May 2014, Levis Strauss & Co. CEO Chip Bergh proudly announced at the Fortune Brainstorm Green Forum that the jeans he was wearing that day was purchased a year ago and had not seen the washing machine to date. This remark took the internet by storm and the debate keeps resurfacing every now and then with comments like ‘eewww so dirty’ and hashtags ‘never wash your jeans’ trending. How to care for your jeans has been a subject of debate for decades and not even denim aficionados have the answer to the burning question- ‘When should you wash your jeans?!?’ Now the approach of never say never stands true in this case but how long can you go without washing? A month, a quarter or half a year? With this winter winds striping down, getting into your PJs can feel like a mammoth task at the end of the day,. But one cannot wear a pair of jeans all day every day as it is bound to get greasy and stinky eventually.
to bring out the texture and the final look of your denim. Regular or frequent denim wash will quickly fade out and soften the rigid fibers that make your jeans durable in the first place. When to wash your jeans totally depends on the type of jeans. Cheaper jeans are usually pre-washed to soften the fabric, prevent the dye from rubbing and the material from shrinking. You can toss them for washing without much over thinking. Alternatively, raw denim requires a bit of attention. This as the creative director of Wrangler, Sean Gromley claims is the stuff you don’t want near a washer. He tells Fashionbeans, “I tend to wash every time the white parts start to look yellow or dirty. Try to hold off the first wash until 180 days of wearing.” Whatever the kind of jeans, reading the label inside is the first step before you start loading up your washer.
How to wash your jeans the correct way So, when to wash your jeans? Instead of washing the entire pair of jeans, spot washFirstly, it is essential to understand that jeans ing is a good solution to get rid of small stains or production involves washing as a process. This helps marks. Dip or soak them in soapy water and grab a
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Going
WATERLESS Three laundry hacks that remove dirt, keeps clothing fresh and doesn’t cost water.
Vinegar
cup of tea while it sits there. Once it is soaked for some time, rub off the stain and wash off with clean water. Repeat the process until the stain goes away. If you do want to wash the jeans, think about soaking and cleaning in a wash tub rather than a washer. It saves water, minimal energy costs and can be a good workout session for the day.
2. HAIR SPRAY It is not just a way to fix those messy strands but also to remove stains. Hair spray is efficient in removing ink and lipstick stains. To get gid of stains, spray from a distance of 20cm. Let it sit for a few minutes, then rinse by hand and hang dry.
Fill a bucket or tub with luke warm water just enough to submerge your jeans completely. Add denim friendly soft detergent and mix well with the water. Depending on how dirty they were let them sit for an hour while you get other chores done. Once the water starts looking dirty, it means the job is done. It is now time to wash off the soap and squeeze out all that extra water. Another way is to roll up the jeans in a dark bath towel and let it soak all that excess water. In case a spin in the washing machine is what the jeans crave, then let’s make this trip worthwhile. First thing is to prep the jeans for a machine wash. This means close all zips, fasten any buttons and turn them inside out. This way you reduce the chances of losing that rugged texture and there is minimal bleeding of colour. Next step is setting up the washer to the right settings. Select minimum water levels, low temperatures (20-30 degree Celsius is good) and finally a gentle cycle that minimizes tumbling and spinning. Once that’s done, toss in the jeans with other dark coloured clothes and add the washing liquid (remember to be gentle with both quality and quantity). A final word of warning, never ever use bleach.
1. VINEGAR The low pH level of vinegar is effective in removing odours in clothing. Add one portion vinegar and dilute with one portion water. Store this in a spray bottle and use when necessary. Hang outdoors to dry and air off naturally.
VODKA
3. VODKA Booze is the answer to all our problems. This should be your mantra in life and your motto when doing laundry. The magic ingredient in hairspray is actually alcohol, so why not use it directly instead. Fill a spray bottle with vodka and spritz on your jeans to get rid of unpleasant odour.
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Drying out those rugged denims Well now that the jeans are all clean and tidy, it is time to dry it up. Line drying is the best option. Yes, it may take longer especially when the British weather is not kind enough to shed some sunlight, but line drying is the way to go. So, turn your jeans the right way, pull it into its original shape and hang it dry. The movement and heat involved in tumble drying adds to the wear and tear of your jeans. In case of emergencies when the dryer is the only solution, remember to choose the lowest heat setting and a cycle that minimizes tumbling and spinning. And with that your jeans are all set. 14
Ironing and After Care The best thing about jeans is the fact that it is not all that high maintenance when it comes to ironing. You do not require a special steam iron and if you dried out your jeans flat up then sometimes ironing them is not even essential. The care instructions guide should again help you here to choose the right temperature for ironing which generally ranges from 100-120° C. Finally, if you want to keep your jeans fresh, you can also buy a dry wash spray that will remove odours and soften the denim with just an all-over spritz. It won’t freshen them like a full wash, but it will prolong the need to face the machine.
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Because even those tough jeans deserve a gentle touch.
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thelaundress.com
Denim Deposits When it comes to storing your jeans, shelving is not the correct answer. Folding and stacking maybe common but denim junkies agree that you should hang them instead. It doesn’t just help give some air to your jeans (and hence reducing odour) but also gives it that worn-in look that we love. So, from now on when it comes to storing those denims, hooks and hangers are your best friends.
BUTTS OUT We got people to pose in their favourite pairs of jeans and the results were just butt-ilicious. Lights, Camera, Bums Please!
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I don’t admit this very often, but I can go days without getting out of my jeans. -Jack, 26
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I can’t even remember when I bought this jeans. All I know is that my butt looks cute in it. -Shia, 22
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When it comes to jeans, it’s all about comfort. -John, 28
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It’s hard to find a men’s jeans that makes your butt stick out. But then I found this one at a vintage store and just love it. -Adam, 24
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With jeans I never have to think too hard how it looks. That’s why I wear my 501’s everywhere. -Cristin, 30
SHOP PAGE
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5 interesting things to do with
your old pair of jeans You have a long-term relationship with your pair of jeans and just like any other relationship, even this one gets stale and boring over the years. True, when you purchased that perfect fit pair of boyfriend jeans you promised to love it more than your real-life beau. But now that the beau is gone, you are tempted to say goodbye to this pair of jeans that you once spent an entire week in. Instead of throwing those jeans away, use them as a tool to channel all those emotions you are going through. So, here are 5 interesting things to do with your pair of jeans when going through an emotional turmoil in life. 1. Channel the Anger with the Cut, Copy or Paste rule From what movies teach us, the quickest and cinematically dramatic way to channel all that anger is to hit a punching bag as hard as you can. Now think of your jeans as a punch-bag available right in the premise of your own wardrobe. Get those scissors and cut it into a pair of butt shorts or get a blade (Caution Alert!) and rip up those fibers to get a tattered look. If that doesn’t work, then copy down some Eminem rap lyrics or splatter it with black ink. And if everything else fails you can always paste a nasty comment on the back pocket. We are thinking anywhere from IDGAF to a straight up F**K You. 2. Sew away the tension Work, family, environment, daily tube travel- there are a lot of things around you that can tip you off into a destructiveturmoil.Toavoidthisphaseofself-destructionthatyouwillregretlater,whynotchannelallthattensioninto something that can take up the load- a pair of jeans. Jeans is the most tough garment there is and making them is no easy task. But this boutique in East London is conducting a workshop to help people make their own jeans. Now doesn’t that sound fun? So, immerse yourself in a weekend of healthy construction and stitch up all that stress into your jeans. What: Jeans Masterclass with Heather Lou of Closet Case Patterns -Where: The New Craft House, 6 Broadway Market Mews, London, E8 4TS -Book at: www.thenewcrafthouse.com/collections/workshops -
3. Upcycle your way through the boredom We have all had unproductive days. Days we spent lying in bed watching the ceiling or a screen for hours. When we finally come out of this phase, our body is not the only thing that stinks. Our brain reeks too from staying inactive. To rejuvenate the mind and body, first take a bath and then it is time to get crafty. Bags, pouches, phone cases, napkins are just some easy ways to upcycle your pair of jeans. Here are our top three suggestions. They are safe, easy and quick hacks. You can thank us later.
DIY Denim Bucket by Curly Made
Jeans to Backpack Upcycle by TheSorryGirls
Upcyled Denim Apron by Kidspot
4. Sharing is Caring Your mother always encouraged that sharing shows caring not just towards others but also helps usher in some peace. So, once you are ready to move on in life, it is also time to move away from those jeans and donate them to a vintage store or a charity shop. This way the joy that you once got from seeing that cute ass denim butt in the mirror can now be received by another individual. Our all-time favourite charity shops are Oxfam, Traid and British Heart Foundation but we will let you choose what your heart desires as long as it is in the right place. 5. Recycle the Happy Days Every relationship is bound to end and if your jeans has reached its end and cannot make its way through anymore it is time to give it a new life. Dumping it into the landfill would be a bitter way to bid farewell. Instead give them away to be recycled so that they can be used in some other way. The easiest way is to find a denim retailer who takes in old pair of jeans and pass them away. 27
You will need: Cotton thread, marking pencil, six-inch ruler, needles, thimble, pins, and scissors. (keep two pairs: one for trimming fabric and one for snipping threads). Step 1: Cut Out the Hole TUTORIAL:
How to Patch a Hole
With small scissors, cut the hole into a clean square or rectangle. This will make the repair neater and easier. Trim any loose threads. At each corner of the square hole, cut a 1⁄4-inch notch at a 45-degree angle. Turn material inside out, fold square’s 1⁄4-inch edges onto material’s wrong side, and press them flat.
Step 2: Prepare the Patch With larger scissors, cut out the patch material; this patch was cut from the back of the jeans pocket (the hole left behind can be patched later with another material, since it won’t be visible). Measure, mark, and cut out a square that’s 1⁄2 inch bigger all around than the hole you’re repairing.
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Step 3: Match the Grain With the jeans still inside out, position the patch on top of the hole, right (front) side down. Be sure to match up the patch and jean so the grains run the same way. Turn the material right side out, and pin the patch in place. Now, baste the patch from the outside of the jeans: Starting anywhere on the square, make a 1⁄4-inch stitch down through the patch; push the needle up and out, catching the folded edge of the hole. Continue all around the hole, and remove pins.
Step 4: Join the Fabrics Turn the jeans inside out. Next, perform the overhand stitch, simply a tighter version of the overcast stitch: Fold back the 1⁄2 inch excess of patch fabric, so it’s flush with the folded edge of the hole. Insert the needle down through the folded edge of the patch (only one layer of fabric) and then stitch up diagonally through the folded edge of the jeans, joining the two fabrics. Continue this stitch in a uniform manner all around the square. Make several short backstitches at each corner to further secure the patch to the fabric. The overcast stitch will be slightly visible on the front of the shirt. Snip and pull out the basting thread.
Step 5: Prepare the Patch To finish the edges of the patch inside the jeans, use the catch stitch. Cut off the tips of the four corners of the patch at 45-degree angles. Fold back each edge 1⁄4 inch. Catch stitch the edges to the jeans, picking up only one or two threads with each stitch. Press the patch when finished.
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Manchester - Affleck’s: The indoor market has some iconin vintage mini stores like Retro Rehab, Pop Boutique, and Cow Vintage. Address: 52 Church St, Manchester - Blue Rinse Address: 21-23 Oldham St Website: www.bluerinsevintage.co.uk
Manchester
Portobello R
Birmingham - Gingermegs Vintage Address: 21-23 Oldham St Website: www.gingermegs-vintage.com
(Ladbroke Grove: Circl
Birmingham
- Found & Vision Address: 104 Golborne R Instagram: @foundandvis
- Top Banana Address: 14 York Road, Birmingham Website: www.topbananavintage.com
Brighton
LONDON
- Beyond Retro Address: 42 Vine Street, Brighton Website: www.beyondretro.com - Dirty Harry Address: 6 Sydney Street, Brighton Instagram: @dirtyharryclothing -Starfish Vintage Clothing Address: 25 Gardner Street, Brighton Website: www.starfishvintageclothing.co.uk
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Brighton
The all-ro
(avaiable at multip
- TRAID -Rokit Vintage
Treasure Hunt We made a list of all the best vintage stores in town worth stopping by for great second hand denim
Hackney (Hackney Central)
Camden Market (((Camden Town:Northern Line) The outdoor market houses various small boutiques and pretty much anything vintage for man, woman or child.
-Market Cartel Address: Pembury Circus Website: www.themarketcartel.com - Paper Dress Vintage Address: 352a Mare Street Website: www.paperdressvintage.co.uk
Road
le Line)
Camden Market
Road sion
Convent Garden
Portobello Road
Convent Garden (Piccadilly Line)
ounders
ple locations)
- Oxfam - ATIKA
- WOW Retro Address:179 Drury Lane Covent Garden Website: www.wowretro.co.uk
Hackney
Bricklane
Bricklane
(Shoreditch High Street)
- Beyond Retro Address: 110-112, Cheshire Street Website: www.beyndretro.com - Serontonin Vintage Address: Brick Lane, Weavers Instagram: @serotoninvintage - House of Vintage Address: 4, Cheshire Street Website: www.houseofvintageuk.com
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Sanjoli Arora 19000905 MA Fashion Journalism 2019-2020
