Memories by Santa Barbara Historical Museum

NOTICIAS Quarterly Magazine Of The Santa Barbara Historical Society Vol. XLVI, No. 1

Spring 2000

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MEMORIES

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1995 Ls.suc’ o/'Nocicia.s appeared reprints a] ariides

ivrittai l)y MiSiael J. PMiips Jar the Saiica Barbara Daily News m the 1 gios, "50 Tecirs and yMore in Santa Barbara,’’ based upon intenneivs leith long time residents. In the Spring iggH issue lue pnnted excerins Jrom the jirst book xve decided published in Santa Barbara, a rare item jwm ib~.i. In this issue oj the (juanerty to combine these concepts, first is a Phillips'article IxLsed upon his conversations with Cjerxildine Dowell Valde, whose parents arrived in Santa Barbarxi in iSirH. In addition to family history she takes the reader on a stroll up State Street, as it apjreared when herjolksJirst land ed here. 7he article appeared in the. navspaper on I'ebniar-y .>5, 1 gi?.. Secondly comes a re print of a booklet, onginally published in iHgb, La Casa dc Aguirre of Santa Barbara. 18411884, in which S. ti. A. I Hggins lays out the histor-y of the home ofJose y\ntonio Aguirre. One ofthe grxindest ofSanta Barbarxi's cKlobes, the home ivclsfirst a social center of the city and was later put to a number of public uses, front cover photogrxiph shoivs CjeraLline Dowell posing with her brother-, Ifichar-d, about Agy. In back cover- photogrxiph, Ciemldine Dowell shows off her beautiful long hair shor-tly before her marriage to Charles Valde. All phntoe.s.s (;therwise noted. gr-aphsfrom the collection ofthe Santa Bar-bar-a I Iistorical Society uni Tllfl AUTl 101\S:Michael Phillips came to Californiafr-orn the Midwest in igig. I le was an editor at the Daily News,thenfreelanced. I lis iwo-volurne History ot Santa Barbara California, From Its Farliest Settlement to the Present Time wxis published in ig.ij. Sarah livelyn Austin I liggins anived in Santa Bar-bara in iHtr-/. She was a char-ter member of the Cungr-egational chwch here. For many years she taught music m the public schools and had a number of songs published. In addition to herwor'kon they\guirre Mobe,she pidrlished a volume of poetry and contnUited numerous ar-ticles to magazines.

INI'ORMATION P'OR CONTRIBUTORS: NOTICIAS is a quarterly journal devoted to the study ol the history ol Santa Barbara County Contributions articles are welcome Those authors whose articles arc accepted ior publication will receive ten gratis copies oi the is sue in which their article appears, i'urthcr copies arc available to the contributor at cost. 1 he authority in matters of style is the Univer-:^Uy oj Chicago Manual of Style, i.ph edition, riie Pub lications Committee reserves tire right to return submitted manuscripts lor retjuired changes Statements and opinions expressed in articles arc the sole responsibility ol the author.

Michael Redmon, Editor Judy Sutcliffe. Designer

IN MEMORIAM SANTA O 0 BARBARA’S 0 0 HISTORICAL COMMUNITY LOST A GREAT TREASURE WITH THE DEATH OF GERALDINE VALDE SAHYUN 0 WHO DIED ON DECEMBER 17, 1999. A LIFE MEMBER AND 0 0 FORMER TRUSTEE OF THE HISTORICAL SOCIETY, SHE 0 0 WAS ACTIVE IN 0 HISTORICAL AGENCIES UP AND DOWN THE STATE. SHE 0 0 CONTRIBUTED 0 00 TO THE UNDERSTANDING OE OUR COMMUNITY'S PAST THROUGH HER TRANSLATION OF HUNDREDS OF DOCUMENTS FROM THE SPANISH 0 ERA 0 AS 0 WELL 0 AS HER TRANSLATION OF THE LOGS 0 OF THE FRIGATE,0 PRINCESA, PUBLISHED IN 1982. SHE WAS A FIXTURE FOR DECADES AT SANTA BARBARA’S FIESTA CELEBRATION AND WAS ESPECIALLY KNOWN FOR HER PERFORMANCES OF EARLY CALIFORNIAN PERIOD 0DANCES.0 0 THIS DEDICATED, GENEROUS, AND GRACIOUS LADY WILL BE SORELY MISSED.0 WE DEDICATE THIS ISSUE OF NOTICIAS, CONTAINING 0 THE REMINISCENCES OF HER MOTHER,TO 0

GERALDINE VALDE SAHYUN 1

HQO CDORG(

Chapters from the Life of Richard Dowe as told to Michael J. Phillips by Mrs. Geraldine Dowell Valde ♦ ♦ ♦ Santa Barbara Daily News February 25, 1922

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LTHOUCH I was born in Santa Barbara and have always lived here, I cannot qualify for "Fifty Years and More in Santa Barbara." because I am not old enough. But my father, Richard Dowell, could, and during his lifetime he told me many interesting things which have historic value. Richard Dowell was born in England and left Liverpool with my grandfather and his family in March 1868. on the steamer "City of London." They landed at New York, and then came to San Francis co by sea, crossing over from one vessel to another at the Isthmus of Panama. My father was then about twentythree years of age and had just been mar ried to my mother, who was a daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Henry Penry. My parents stayed in San Francisco for nearly two months, visiting, but Mr. and Mrs. Penry and their three children, Carrie. Marv and

Harry, came to Santa Barbara. The only one living now is Carrie. She is the wife of Judge [William H.] Wheaton, who came here in 1870. and who has been justice of the Peace lor twenty-live years. My grandfather built the first brick house in Santa Barbara, that summer ot 1868, at the southeast corner of Dc la Vina and Pedregosa streets, where it is still standing.' My grandfather. Mr. Pen ry, had lived in brick or stone houses only, and left that he had to have one here. But it was quite small, owing to shortage of brick and to accommodate the family a frame part was also put up. There were three rooms, two bedrooms and a living room, in the brick part, and bedroom, din ing room and kitchen, in the frame part, in the rear. The house is occupied today. They could get no shingles for the house in Santa Barbara in that year, and the rool was composed ol boards and

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The I{ichard Dowellfamily arrived in Santa Barbara on board the sidewheeUr, Orizaba.

leaked. During chc rains, they would pile everything which might be injured by moisture on the beds, cover the heap with oilcloth, and sit on top under umbrellas. My father and mother came in June, 1868, on the steamer. Orizaba. Tlie vessel anchored outside the kelp and the passen gers were landed in the steamer’s small boats at the little dock then standing at the foot of Chapala Street.^ They lived with my grandparents in an adobe house at 121 East Canon Perdido Street,[the Canedo adobe, 123 East Canon Perdido Street—ed.j until the brick house referred to was finished. My father’s first job was secured short ly after he came ashore from the Ori

blisters, but he had proven he was not afraid of hard work. For many years thereafter, practically up to the time of the day of his death. November 12, 1920, he was employed cither in the sheriff’s of fice or the police force. In fact, just the day before he died he was getting ready to go to Montecito on police business. In January, 1895, while in the dis charge of his duties as an officer, he was shot by an Indian whom he was trying to

Ihe home ofthe Henry Penryfamily xvas(me(flhe earliest brick houses in the city. Built in the late iS6os, It was located on the southwest comer of De la Vina and Pedregosa streets.

zaba. He saw a man digging postholes for a new fence around some property at State and Gutierrez streets, and stopped to watch him. Father had never done any manual labor and he had his best clothes on, but, when the man asked him if he wanted a job. Fa ther answered that he did. He was put to work digging the postholes. He came proudly home to Mother that night, his hands covered with

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What was later [lie ParkHoteLiuas originally the home oj Issac Sparks. The hotel was razed in i8gi.

arrest. The Indian was given fourteen years in San Quentin. Father often told us just how State Street looked when he landed here and he

between Yanonali and Moncccico streets. Part of the house was removed to make

later described fully who and what was along the street. Here is the list: There were no buildings on the wharf, but across what is now the boulevard was

garden. On the same side of State Street, on the corner of Montedto Street (in the

a warehouse kept by Captain [Horatio Gates] Trussell. who also had charge of the wharf. To the right of the warehouse was Capt. [George W.] Chase’s boarding house for sailors. At that time there were no carriages for hire, the only conveyance was Billy Sproul’s dray, which carried both passen gers and baggage. Coming up State Street the first build ing was the old Beach House, a hotel, which is now occupied by Donna Youman’s art shop, on the right. The next, on the left, at the corner of Yanonali Street, was the residence of Captain [Martin] Kimberly, one of the finest gentlemen in Santa Barbara and a great otter hunter. The next building on the left of State Street was Dr. [James B.] Shaw’s house,

way for the Potter Theatre, the rest still stands. It was surrounded by a pleasant

next block), was Mr. [issac] Spark’s resi dence. That place was afterwards known as the Park Hotel. The Park Hotel was part brick and part frame; later the brick part was torn down and the frame portion was moved so as to face Chapala Street, be tween Montedto and Gutierrez streets, where it still stands as the Hoffman House. On the corner of Montedto and State, across State from the Sparks house, was a frame house and next a lumber yard. In the next block, on the left, was the adobe residence of Charlie Brown, whose real name was Dittman; next was the [Roswell] Forbush residence. The John P. Stearns lumber yard was on the corner of Haley and State streets, in the same block. From Haley to Cota, still on the left side of the street, was a vineyard. On the right from Montedto to Haley Street were va cant lots. Above Haley were a few small

MEMORIHS frame houses. About the middle of the block was the adobe house of T. S. Martin and family. Martin came to Santa Barbara with Fremont. It was told of Tom Martin that when Fremont was advancing to San ta Barbara. Martin was sent out to try to find some other approach than the Gaviota Pass, where the Californians were sta tioned, and from a high rock since known as Tom Martin's Rock, he saw the San Marcos Pass.'^

5 above Canon Perdido Street was a little frame building occupied by Ealands butch er shop - where Jimmy Murray’s candy store in the Aiken block is now. At right angles to it an adobe building was built across State Street, completely blocking the street. On the right hand side, above Ortega Street, was Del Valle's residence and then [Albert] Bocseke’s tin shop. Then came a

Between Cota and Ortega streets, on the right, the property belonged to Dixie Thompson, There were a few small frame buildings in that block. On the left, where the Santa Barbara Drug Company is now, was an adobe store called the Farmers Store, owned by A[ugustine] Goux. Next to that was Pierce’s Lumber Yard, and a wagon maker’s shop and above that Charles Pierce’s residence. Above that was Biggs and Gutierrez Drug Store, a tiny frame building only about sixteen by twenty feet in size. Next was Dr. [Mat thew H.j Biggs’ two-story residence set back about fifty feet from the street. Above Ortega Street on the same side, was [Sherman] Loomis’ saddle shop. Above that, where Parma’s Market now is, was a grocery store owned by Mr. Andoneiga. [Probably J. M. Andonaegui—ed.] Next was an adobe store and the Weils Fargo office, owned by the Hon. judge [j. F.] Maguire, the county judge. Between Andoneiga’s [sic] and Judge Maquire’s were a few little frame buildings and next to Maguire’s was a two-story building—a saloon—owned by Frank Aubrey, on the spot where the Central Bank is now. It was on the corner of old De la Guerra Street. Next to that was the adobe St. Charles Hotel, then an adobe residence, then a frame building, part of which was rented by Charles Bowen, a barber, the other part was Raffour's restaurant. Then

J. yM. Andonaegui and Son ran a general score in the yoo block ofState Street. From History of Santa Barbara and Ventura Counties Cal ifornia with Illustrations and Biographical Sketches of Its Prominent Men and Pioneers by Jesse Diamond Aiasoyi. igbi reprint by Hoicell'A’orth of Fhompsem D West publication.

little adobe building, a grocery kept by Frank W, Frost. The next building was the adobe American Hotel, then one or two frame buildings, and George Hartley’s livery stable, then adobe buildings up to De la Guerra Street. Above Dc la Guerra Street was the Tapo saloon, above that two frame build ings. then an adobe building where the Western Union Telegraph office is now. Across Canon Perdido Street, [W. F. M.] Goss the shoemaker had a little

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frame building - shop and residence. Above Carrillo on che left was Goux's house, which faced coward che ocean and turned its side toward che street. Above chat was the [Bruno] Orclla house, which faced State. Above the Catholic Church was prac tically open country to che Mission. My father found che Spanish people very charming and delightful. They were courteous and hospitable and always will ing to help in every way they could. Al though he was a Welshman, they called him "English Dick.” and my mother "Mrs. Dick." He remained on the best of terms with them all his life; he said they were the best and truest friends anyone could have. There were not many Ameri cans or British here then. The first colored man my father re membered seeing in Santa Barbara was Jer ry Forney, who came here with the Mont gomery Queen Circus and spent the remaining years of his life here. He was generally known as "Uncle Jerry.” and was a great favorite. Father has confessed to us chat at first sight he thought Santa Barbara the queer est place he ever saw. Native women, wrapped in their shawls, were siccing on che beach, and it was very different from the civilization he had left behind in Eng land. Mother liked it very much from the first, and he coo. soon grew to love Santa Barbara. Nick Covarrubias was che sheriff and che jail, an adobe affair, was between Anacapa and Santa Barbara streets on Figue roa. My father was given che position of jailer under Mr. Covarrubias and went over to report for work. He went all around the building, which was locked, but could see no one. Then he heard a voice calling, "Want to come in?" It was from inside che jail. He said he did. So a window was raised and he

Nicholas A. Covarrubias ivas Santa Barbara County SheriJffro7n i86y to i86g andjrom i8yi to iSyg. He later became a U.S. Aiarshal.

crawled through. The man who opened it was one of the prisoners! When che courthouse was built around 1873. my father cook charge of the new jail, which was in che basement. There was a bad earthquake in che early seven ties and the prisoners were nervous. They feared the courthouse would come down on cop of them. Ac che first tremor, they began shouting and screaming. "Let us out, Dick: let us out!” One night he heard the music of a gui tar. and fearing the noise was an attempt to cover a jailbreak, he out into the dark ness to investigate. He went cautiously around the courthouse, and came upon a man, a native Californian, crouched on che ground close to one of the graced windows which were just above the earth’s level. Inside was another lace, that of a pris oner who was listening appreciatively to che music.

MEMORIES

Richard Dowdl, Qeratdine’sfather, was a depu ty marshal, county jailor, and abo worked as a guard for the Southern Pacific Railroad. Photo graph taken about i8go.

awnings began tumbling down up the street. His horse, resenting being tied, had jerked at the awning post until it came down. Then he dashed away, and the dan gling post, attached to the tie strap, brought down all the other posts it struck. For him, the tie strap ordinance was can celed after that. Father worked on the construction of the Lobero Theatre. At the opening, Mrs. Deckman, sister of Nick Covarrubias,

"What are you doing there?" demand ed my father of the singer, who was play ing away on the guitar. "My friend, he goes to San Quentin in the morning, so I serenade him,” explained the man outside. Father didn't disturb the farewell concert after that. There was a great deal of serenading in those days, and how sweet it sounded. It is a great pity the custom has died out. An ordinance was passed in the early days requiring that horses be tied when left on the streets. Now. practically all of the horses would stand. 'Western fashion, il the reins were thrown over their heads, and many of them wouldn’t stand tied. My grandfather Penry had such a horse. All along State Street were wooden awnings out over the sidewalks and the awnings were held up by posts. Well. Grandfather Penry came along one day and started into the store where he traded. He was told to tie his horse. He remonstrated. but he obeyed orders. Then he went hastily inside. The door had scarcely closed behind him when there was a terrific clatter and

sang "Silver Threads Among the Gold.” This was in 72 or 73 [The opening was February 22, 1873, Reviews do not men tion Mrs. Dcckman’s performance.—ed.j The first traveling company that came to the Lobero was an Italian opera company. The first ball held in the new theatre was a very grand affair. Qohn] Kays’ store is the big. old adobe now occupied by the Chinese merchants across from the Lobero Theatre. Then it was a nice store with fine stock. My older sister, who was about one year old, was taken ill in 1870 and Father and Mother brought her down there, which was con venient to the doctor’s office. The doctor said she must not be moved and Mr. Kays, a very fine man, who had lost a baby of his own a short time before, took down new blankets from his stock to make a bed for her. He paced the floor all night in his anxiety for her. She died in a few days. I understand that some descen dants of Mr. Kays are still living here. Father could have taken up the entire Riviera in those days as government grant land, but he said he "didn’t want that bunch of rocks.” Pedregosa Street between Chapala and Dc la Vina streets was my

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grandfather Penry’s corral. He owned the two blocks between Mission and Islay, Chapala and De la Vina streets. Many Indians lived in a settlement at the Cieneguitas, which was located near the present junction of Modoc Road with the state highway. They had religious ser vices and I think a chapel there, because my father talked of a bell which they had out there. On their way into town they would stop at Grandfather Penry’s brick house to get water. The well was a favorite one of the tribe. Most of the Indians rode, but there was one who was stone blind, and they let him walk, holding to the tail of a horse for guidance. An old man used to go about selling prickly pears. These were carried in bags made of cowhides, dressed with the hair on the outside, two bags slung over the back of a horse. The prickly pears are the fruit of the cactus and are very good. I don’t see why they arc not sold now. My father had many amusing occur rences happen to him in court, when he was court officer. Judge [Eugene] Fawcett was superior judge and one day. when he was hearing a tiresome case, he was much annoyed at the loud ticking of a clock on the wall. At last, unable to bear it longer, he burst out. "Sheriff, throw that clock out of the window!” My father did so unhcsitantly, and then the judge turned to the clerk and said, "Mr. Clerk, enter a fine of ten dollars against the court to buy a new clock. Pro ceed!" Father was court officer in Judge Faw cett's court when a Chinese named Ah Kow was brought in to be sentenced for a crime. He was accompanied by two friends. Ah Loo and Ah Koo. Judge Faw cett mispronounced the name of the guilty man when he ordered him to stand up to

Henry Pairy, a native of England, immigrated with hisfamily to Ohio. Eventually making their way to California, they lived for a time in San Francisco before settling in Santa Barbara.

be sentenced and Ah Koo stood up in stead. Ah Kow attempted to rise, but his other friend was quick-witted and he tugged at his flowing shirt until the pris oner sat down. After quite a lecture, the court sen tenced Ah K.00 to San Quentin and the other two walked out. Wlien the court of ficer was ordered to take the prisoner into custody, Ah Koo burst out,'Tm not pris oner Ah Kow; I’m Ah Koo. I did noth ing!" So they let him go free and they never caught Ah Kow. Grandfather Penry had a sheep ranch over the mountains and when he and Fa ther were riding out one time to visit the ranch, they came on a herd of over fifty deer. They were not frightened at all, but opened up quietly to let the riders through, looking at them with great, soft intelligent eyes. Father often said after that. "I don’t see how people can have the heart to shoot a deer." One night on their way to the ranch.

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they were sleeping out and heard quite a commotion. Both the sheep and the horses were very restive. When it was light, they looked over the ground and found the tracks of a huge bear. An early job of Father’s was carrying a chain for surveyors upon the mountains. The brush was so thick that in some plac es he was compelled to crawl on his hands and knees, and once he burst into a little clearing to find himself staring into the eyes of a big mountain lion, which was sunning itself, stretched at full length. They looked at each other, and for a few seconds neither moved. Tlien Father started to back cautiously out. The lion must have been well fed, because he made no attempt to attack. Father backed until he reached a steep place and he slid right down that, letting himself go, to the great damage of his clothes. There were many social functions in the early days. The Lobero TTcatre was the center of much social activity. Many fairs and home talent shows were held there. The Sisters’ fairs were nice events. [Tlic Daughters of Charity, St. Vincent dc Paul] At dances it was the custom to hurl cascarones. Cascaroncs were eggshells from which the contents had been blown, and which were then filled with small piec es of tinsel. Occasionally, one was filled with perfume. When a dancer was struck with the shell it would burst, showering him—usually her—with tinsel or perfume. One of the characters about town was Pedro Dominguez, commonly known as "Pedro Loco,” a very fierce looking man, who was always on horseback, and of whom all children, and most women, were very much afraid. It was said he had been a bandit, and that he shielded Ned McGowan when the San Francisco Vigi lantes were after him, that he sent his wife with food to Ned’s hiding place in the

brush behind the Old Mission. That was after Terry shot Broderick in San Francisco with McGowan's gun.'^ The Vigilance Committee was after McGowan and he fled to Santa Barbara. One day, while he was talking to a group of men in front of the St. Charles Hotel, Jack Powers, an outlaw, rode down the street and told Ned that the Vigilantes were coming. McGowan ran down to Dc la Guerra Street to the house of Pat Dunn, a notorious outlaw, near the present Asso-

For many years the Valdes'daughter, Qeraldine, danced in Santa Barbara’s aimual Old Spanish Days Fiesta. She married medical researcher, M.elville Sahyun.

10 ciaced Charities adobe on Santa Barbara Street[800 Santa Barbara Street]. Mrs. Dunn rolled him up in a carpet to hide him, and when the pursuing Vigi lances came along, she declared she knew nothing of him. He stayed in the carpet for several hours and said it wasn’t so bad except that the fleas nearly ate him up. The second husband of Mrs. Dunn, by the way, was a man named [Henry] Clif ton, who was a deputy at the courthouse at the time Nick Covarrubias was sheriff.

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My father had been a soldier before he came to California. He was in the Royal Horse Artillery of England and that fitted him for his career as a peace officer. He was very popular with all classes in the town. He understood the early residents thoroughly and perhaps that is the reason they got along so well together. It is not generally known by newcom ers now that often if you ask one of chose old people, "Are you a Spaniard?’’ he will shake his head and say, "No, I am not a

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MEMORIHS Spaniard, although I am of Spanish blood. 1 am 'del pais’." This means literally. "I am of the country." In other words, they are Californians and are proud to be of the country — or California. And so arc we, who, no matter what our ancestry may have been, are able to reply, when asked, "What is your nation ality? "I am a Californian! I am 'del pais’.

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SDIOXDR’S nCTDGS 1, Although one of the earliest brick resi dences constructed in the city, it was not the first. The Charles Fernald home, for one, pre-dated the Penry house, having been constructed ca. 1862. The Cota-Knox house, 914-918 Anacapa Street, dates from 1871. 2. Deep-water vessels could not tic up to the 500-foot Chapala Street Wharf. After being rebuffed in his offer to help finance an extension of the wharf, John Stearns completed his own wharf in 1872. 3. The story of the Californians waiting in ambush for Fremont's men has been discounted by. among others. Walker Tompkins. Santa Barbara had already sent forces to Los Angeles. Also, no mention of the ambush or of Benjamin Foxen’s warning is made in Fremont's memoirs or those of any of his men. 4. McCowan was accused of supplying the gun that James Casey, a San Fran cisco political figure and newspaper man. used to kill James King, editor of another newspaper, in 1856. Judge Da vid S. Terry killed U. S. Senator David C. Broderick in a duel in 1859 over the issue of slavery.

'Die original Lobero Theatre was the site ofmany a commu nity function. Here a benefit is being givenfor Trinity Episco pal Church.

EQOrRRG ^^

i84-L"-1-884 ^ ^ S. E. A. HIGGINS ♦

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Mrs. Lucy Noyes Brinkerhoff These Reminiscences of the Spanish^speaking People and the Early Pioneers are Dedicated by S. E. A. H.

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reiace; Professor Henry Chapman Ford, so long associated with the welfare of Santa Barbara, vainly endeavored to have the subject of this sketch preserved to the city as a relic of by-gone times. Wlien he "passed Be yond" he left its likeness in oil. and also re produced the same in his set ot historical etchings. For the facts woven into this narrative 1 am indebted to Mr. Augustine [Agustin] Janssens, who died in January. 1894; to Captain Henry S. Carnes. Miss Cota, Mrs. W. W. Streeter, and others. I have endeavored to be as accurate as possible, but have given the preference to notes fur nished by Mr. Janssens and Captain Carnes. Probably the only sketches of the inter ior and ruins of the Aguirre House, histori cal in both a public and private sense, arc those which I have secured for my readers, through the courtesy of Miss J. Dayton and Mrs. C. W.Lunt. S. E. A. H.

Casa de Aguirre The Aguirre house of Santa Barbara, with its low, flat roof, broad porches, its open court with a blue sky for a canopy, its specious rooms whose deep windows were set with tiny panes of glass and barricad ed externally by heavy wooden shutters, has recently disappeared before the march of modern improvement. The Aguirre house chat faced the broad ocean, with the historic associations of the old world and the new. which should have been preserved as a memorial of ocher days, has been despoiled and de stroyed. There is not an adobe to cell of its chick walls, not a fibre of wood, wrought with such infinite pains, to whis per of the cowering mountains where grew the grand old pines from which were carved, by patient hands, its pillars, cor nices and casements. Not a tithe of its ircscoing. in either dado or frieze, that adorned the walls these many years, is left to speak of the builder or architect. Even the massive stone steps, worn by the incessant tread

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of a half a century, are gone. The ruthless hand of a restless age has levelled the ven erable structure to the ground and re moved its very vestige. Will you listen to its story, gathered from the drifts of departed days? Don Jose Antonio Aguirre, a gentle man of culture, largely engaged in com mercial pursuits, a native of San Sebastian, Spain, went to Mexico in 1834. From there he went to Chile, South America, and from thence to San Diego. Very soon after his arrival at San Die go, Don Augustine [Agustin] Janssens also landed at the same locality. He was a French confectioner, whose father was once a Colonel in Napoleon’s Guard of Honor, but subsequently immigrated to Mexico.^ It was natural consequence that these two gentlemen should form a speedy ac quaintance which resulted in a life-long friendship. Together they journeyed to San Pedro, and afterwards extended their travels as far as Santa Barbara. As the years passed they trafficked up and down the coast, taking advantage of the oppor tunities offered by the development of the country. Don Aguirre found it necessary to go to Chile in 1836 to replenish his goods, for he had been fortunate in his financial in vestments. Enamored with Santa Barbara, he ordered a large barque built in New York, which in due time brought from Chile lumber and all needed material for building, as well as all requisite household furnishing. One can hardly conceive of the labor involved in such an enterprise at that peri od, nor the interest centered in the under taking as the building advanced toward completion. It was erected in the most substantial manner and of the very best materials, an Englishman and a Scotch man executing all the woodwork by hand

The artist Henry Chapjnan Ford had a deep inter est in the preservatioyi oj Santa Barbara's older buildings,including the Aguirre adobe.

in the slow and laborious methods of those days. The style of architecture was in imita tion of the houses of the wealthy in Spain and Mexico, being quadrangular in shape, built around a patio, or open space, and raised upon a stone foundation three feet high. It was located in the center of a block of Carrillo Street, adjoining State Street. The main part of the house was shin gled instead of having the customary tiles. There is a rumor that the shingles were substituted for tiles, and ordered from the Sandwich Islands, to gratify the wishes of the bride-elect. It was certainly the first shingled house in all this south ern country. When completed, the Aguirre house was a veritable castle within itself, con taining a store where merchandise was in variety, nineteen large apartments with high ceilings, storerooms and sleeping

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'Hie home ofJose Antonio Aguirre was at one tune one ofthe city's most elegant residences. The address of the site is 21 -33 East Carrillo Street. 7 he adobe was tom dozen in

rooms for the servants in the half-story above. Tlie large sala or drawing room, at the right, which was at least thirty feet long, with luxurious furniture, some of which was brought from Spain and some was of modern style. There were antique centre tables of dark, rich woods, and sofas of the same. Pictures rarely seen in those years, set in massive frames, adorned the frescoed walls; and three large chandeliers with their crystal pendants hung from the ceiling. The ample grounds were encircled by a stone wall which enclosed wellhouse, lavatory, stable, fruit orchard, and flower and vegetable gardens. As late as Fremont’s time (1846), the pretty senoritas could reach from the drawing-room windows and pick figs, pears or apricots to regale their lovers and themselves. To this exceptional residence its master brought, in 1842, a charming bride. Dona Maria Estudillo of San Diego. The lady was from a family prominent in social and political circles, and adorned the mansion with grace and refinement. Not long, however, did she preside over her delight ful home, for she died within a few months, and was succeeded in due time by her sister, who bore Don Aguirre a num ber of children. It is said that mother and daughters were very beautiful, and dis pensed a charming hospitality. Those who passed under the great

arches of the back entrance and climbed the stairway at the left for a look out upon the roof, saw the ocean, sometimes as calm as an inland lake, but in stormy weather lashing its waves against the Cas tle Rock; occasionally, on clear days, the dolphins leaping in their play, still more rarely the sporting of whales in the open harbor. The chain of islands in the background seemed in close proximity if rainy weather was approaching, otherwise scarcely seen in the misty distance. At all times Point Rincon shut off the world in that direction. The people were also wont to gather upon the roof of this house to watch the incoming of any strange sail, as it stretched its snowy wings against the ho rizon and wafted quietly into the harbor of safety, ready to barter its precious car go for personal or household adornment. Possibly the transfer of passengers or freight into the surf boats and the subse quent safe arrival, may have been a pass ing recreation. We can conjecture the hearty applause in boisterous or windy weather, when waves run high, as some brawny sailor would clasp a dainty lady in his arms and wading from surf boat to shore, land her high and dry in spite of her timidity; or the gusto with which they would enjoy the intentional stumble of the same sailor that subjected some overbear ing fop, immaculately arrayed in white

MEMORIES

linen and best toggery, to an unexpected sprawl on the wet beach, The court, the nucleus of many histori cal associations, was forty feet square. The railing and fluted columns, continu ous around its sides, which bordered the porches fifteen feet in width, were a sup port of rare exotics and brilliant tropical climbers. All ingress and egress, save through the main entrance and into the store on the southwest corner, was through this court. Protected alike from the heat and the wind, and secluded from the passing thor oughfare, the family would therein gather

15 for a social hour. Guests would take ad vantage of its porches for a quiet prome nade amid the fragrance of flowers and melody of the native birds. In times of fiesta, anniversaries or balls given to people of celebrity, a canopy shut out the sky and the court was con verted into a large hall. Sometimes wan dering Maromas (Mexican strolling ac tors) displayed their varied attractions before admiring audiences. These balls called forth the most elab orate costumes and sumptuous viands. Sehoras and their daughters appeared in stiff brocades, rich rebosas [sic. rebozos.

Probably the most-recognized naturalfeature in Santa Barbara ivas Castle Rock, located about where the Naval Reserve Annory is today at the harbor. It was damaged in the 1925 earthquake and dynamited to make wayfor the harbor breakwater in the late 1 gios.

NOTICIAS

Dancas celebrating the centennial ofT^issicm Santa Barbara in 1886, demonstrate a dance harkening back,to the Spanish era. The two women aremanbers ofthe delaQuarafamily.

shawls—ed.} and anciquc jewels which on great occasions only were brought out from the treasure chests. Their dances were characteristic,

coveted honor as the traditional laurel wreath.

many of them slow, and all were grace ful. Long before the "wee sma’ hours” in dividual popularity was indicated by the lustrous locks of maid, matron or Caballe

bandit, Joaquin Murrieta [sic. Murieta ed.], was in attendance, and danced with

ro. Heads were targets for eggs, not those containing incipient chicks, but those filled with the finest of perfumes, glittering gilt or shining silver-dust which clung to the well-oiled hair lor weeks thereafter. The number of cascaroncs broken over one’s head was a mark of personal appreciation, and as much a

The public participated at the general balls. On one of these occasions the noted

the very best ladies, who were, of course, ignorant of the real character of their gay partner. His friends would have protected him at any cost had his identity become known. Hither came the Hills, the Dens, the Carrillos, the Dc la Guerras, and oth ers of the "F- F. V’s,” adding honor and dignity by their presence.^ Lineal descendants of George IV also mingled with the dancers.^ Without

MEMORIES

doubc Concepcion Argiiello came with the inmates of La Casa Grande to partake of the hospitality of those who built and in habited La Casa de Aguirre. About the year 1845 a cloudburst oc

San Diego, in 1850. it stood for a long time vacant, save for occasional occu

curred above the Mission, and sweeping down the valley took the Aguirre house in its course. It had been raining for several days, when the members of the family were aroused from their slumbers one

Hooker. U.S.A., (afterwards MajorGeneral) occupied some of the rooms, as he passed north from Los Angeles to San Francisco, receiving and entertaining friends during his sojourn.*^

pants; and from that date begins the pub lic nature of its record. Just before the Civil War, Colonel

Early in the Civil War a local compa ny, the Mounted Rifles, kept their armory in this house; and later. Captain Copely. of the First California Volunteers, used the building as barracks while In Santa Barbara. The first celebration of the Fourth of July, with its usual program, took place on the front corridor. The orator of the day. in speaking of current events, alluded to the recent arrival of Protestant mission aries in San Francisco as superfluous. Cali fornia had no need of their services. And the ladies present received the highest compliment that could be given to them, that of proLifically r,;plenishing the earth! On this wide verandah Sheriff Twist assembled his posse comitacus when he undertook to eject Jack Powers and others The only knoum portrait from life of Joaquin Murieta. It was executed by an unknotm Franciscan at Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Cannelo.

night

by the sudden

rush

waters

through the back entrance and the open court. The cellar filled rapidly, its contents floating and thumping against the floors of the sleeping rooms for days. Had the front door been barricaded, the results must have been disastrous. As it was. the dampness absorbed at that time was never entirely removed. After the house was dismantled of its furniture by the removal of its owner to

from Arroyo Burro under a process Issued by the Supreme Court. During the fight several men were injured, Pat Dunn was killed, the Sheriff severely wounded, and the ends of justice defeated for the time being. A compromise to the satisfaction of the Interested parties was effected not long afterwards. The Sisters of Charity transferred their school from Las Cicneguitas to the Aguirre house for a short period; and they had under their tuition daughters from some of the best families in California. Among them were those who now fill creditable positions in California and Mexico. Some have wandered to Spain,

and under the shadow of the Alhambra re called chc happy hours in La Casa de Aguirre, while one was present at chc Spanish Court a very few years ago. Among the noted names of chose who were passing guests, chat of Fremont, who with his staff honored it in 1846. perhaps stands first. The rumor chat the house was

NOTICIAS Italian, but had few opportunities to ex press her admiration, created quite a sensa tion by fainting so as to fall into the arms of her adorer, and keeping up the feint until he had accompanied her home. Eventually, chc young lady thought better of her infat uation. She was for years a leader in polite

Fremont's headquarters is refuted by Cape. Henry S. Carnes, who says. "Fremont was coo much of a soldier not to be with his command in chc field, and coo much of a gentleman to intrude on a private family, as would have then been chc case." Howev er. Don Aguirre and his wife extended the utmost hospitality to Fremont and his offi cers. and the constant interchange of civil ities made their sojourn, memorable, and many arc chc romantic incidents related as connected with chat event. Lieutenant Henry Burton, in command of chc 1st Battalion of the 1st New York Regiment. U.S.A., garrisoned chc town in 1847; and again the inspiration of the U.S. troops enlivened chc place. The young commandant and his offi cers were often regally entertained by the Aguirre family, and they in turn recipro cated every courtesy received. The loyal Lieutenant, who keenly en joyed the social life and delightful climate of Santa Barbara, was called to sterner du ties, and was afterward breveted MajorGeneral for meritorious conduct during our civil war, TTie memories of his sojourn in Santa Barbara have since been intensified by the marriage of one of his daughters to a son of Don Aguirre, When chc parish church was burned in 1865, leaving the padre with no place to administer to his flock, they gathered tem porarily in the large front room at the right of chc main entrance.'^ It was probably during this period chat one of chc reigning belles, who had con ceived quite a passion for a popular young

John C. Fremont accepted the Iwspitality of Aguirre during his stay in Santa Barbara in iS^b. Drawing from the book, Lilc, Adventures, and Travels in California by T.J. Famharn,pic torial edition, iSifg.

society, and finally married a wealthy and

highly respected gentleman. The Italian became a prosperous busi nessman, a merchant and dealer in real es tate. He had, also, excellent judgment in building. The acme of his aims in architec ture was attained in the theatre chat bore his name, and which, in size and finish, was tar ahead of chc times. By the way, chc writer recalls one or two rooms in an adobe chat [Jose] Lobero built which were in good repair in 1868. The walls were hung in damask brocade of blue and silver, and ceiled with chc finest of Indian mull laid in knife pleats over a foundation of satin damask.

MEMORIES

Lobcro also sought relaxation in music, and for years used the Aguirre house in which to drill his orchestra. He evolved lo

he knelt during the ordaining ceremony, and afterward the Doxology in which all joined, and the benediction in conclusion—

cal opera of resident material, trusting to their natural ear and inborn love of music,

were not these exercises an emphatic refu tation of the assertion made a few years previous in this same spot? All elections were held at this central

with the voices born to sing, for his cho ruses; was himself manager, director and chief soloist. He imported costumes for his own use and that of his amateur assist ants, and made the old house and welkin of New Italia ring and resound with selec tions from the best masters of old Italy. In April. 1868, the public schools gave their first evening entertainment, a vocal concert, in which eleven nationalities and every family in Santa Barbara were repre sented. It was before the era of newspa pers. but there was no need of advertising. The novelty of the affair, and the chil dren, brought the audience and the dollars. The people continued eager in their ap preciation of the new regime introduced by the advent of public schools and Prot estantism. and at a festival given in this house for the benefit of Trinity Church, the first of the kind in Santa Barbara, the ladies cleared about $500, So, also when a call was issued for the ordination and installation of Rev. E. M.

and now public place. Perhaps the most prominent was that held for local option in 1874. at which pastors and people, law yers and clients, last and not least women, were at the polls. The latter not to vote— oh. no!—and tor their benefit a forgotten and hitherto unregarded law was resur rected which required a boundary line, a rope, past which no one might accompa ny a voter without the penalty of arrest; and the marshall promptly threatened the ladies that he should not hesitate to exe cute the law. Alas! His memory proved treacherous when those of the other sex

Belts over the First Congregational Church, to be held in this building, the people crowded the court, the porches, and even took possession of the private rooms beyond. Everybody came, from the little girl with her doll to the dignitaries of the place, who wished to hear Dr. Stone, the silver-tongued orator from San Fran cisco. Perhaps no incident of that period made a more vivid impression upon the people than the simple earnestness of this Protestant innovation, in contrast with their ordinary worship. The rich voices of the native children alternating with the adult choir, the fervent Invocation, the touching sermon, the laying-on of hands on the bowed head of the young pastor as

Agustin Janssens arrived on the South Coast in the early iS^os. After ranchingfor a time in the Santa Ynez ValUy, he settled in Santa Barbara in the mid-iH^os, becoming one ofthe city's most respected residents.

NOTICIAS

20 escorted their voters. However, such favoritism proved of no avail, for the ladies won a heavy majority, only to find the election set aside by the Supreme Court.^ It is not a coincidence that Mr. Jans sens. the compadre of early days of Don Aguirre, should have been the last person to wholly occupy the house? Coming in from his ranch with his large and interest ing family, he lived in it for some years, and once more it became a social resort for the Barbarenos, Mr. Janssens and his wife were quiet, dignified, but very social, hos pitable and benevolent. He kept the post office in the corner first used as a store where, in 1867, the writer, with others of the incoming emigration, received the dai ly mail which was brought overland by stage or semi-monthly by steamer. One wishes that the pen might assure the reader that either of these gentlemen were living and could now relate his remi niscences. Alas. Don Aguirre died in San Diego about the year 1860. His widow married Colonel Manuel A. Ferrari, and re cently died. Of his children, one son was for some years sheriff of Los Angeles County. Another married the daughter ol General Henry Burton, to whom reference has been made. One daughter resided until quite recently in Santa Barbara, and was much respected. Mr. Janssens lived to bury his faithful wife, his only daughter, most of his sons, and to lose his eyesight. Notwithstanding he was blind for so many years, he re mained the same genial, honorable gentle man. The dampness imbibed by the house at the time of the cloudburst, increased as the years passed. The property, belonging to minor heirs, was not attractive, and be came less so each successive year. Finally only those too poor to find lodgment else where engaged temporary quarters. Ac last the old house was deserted.

Only the curious, the tourist and the idle passerby crossed its door-sill and stood within its precincts. Royalty itself has contributed to its history. Princess Louise, if one mistakes not, during her rambles about the queer old town, added this relic of the past to her sketch book. Descen dants of those of the same lineage as Anne Bolcyn sang and chatted and gos siped herein as if tradition were of naught. Now a tasteful cottage, with clambor ing vines over its southern portico, a velvet lawn and asphalt pavement, occupies the site that so long was occupied by the "Aguirre house." A wee one returns the kiss you toss, a prize hunting dog accepts a caress from your hand as you pass, a par rot screams at you. now in laughter, now in derision. Descendants of sunny Spain and of bleak New England abide therein, in industry, intelligence and peace.

♦

GOITOR'S QOTGS 1. Victor Eugenio Aguscin Janssens was born in Brussels, Belgium, in 1817. 2. F. F. V.s, First Families of Virginia. Used as generic term lor distinguished families. 3. James Ord was supposedly the illegitimate son of the English king. Ord’s son, James, married Angustias dc la Guerra of Santa Barbara. 4. Joseph Hooker would later serve as com mander of the Army of the Potomac for the Union. 5. After the fire, the new Our Lady ol Sor rows church was built across East Figue roa Street from the old sice. This new' church at the northeast corner of State and Figueroa streets served the parish until the 1925 earthquake after w'hich the present Our Lady of Sorrow's was built at the northw'est corner of Sola and Michcltorena streets. 6. The issue in question was w'hether alcoholic beverages should be banned in the city.

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SANTA BARBARA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 1999 MAJOR CONTRIBUTORS The Santa Barbara Historical Society wishes to thank and to acknowledge with pride the following individuals and institutions for their generous contributions in 1999. GRAND PATRONS (S25.000 and above)

BENEFACTORS ($500 to $999)

The Boyd Foundation Smith-Walker Foundation

Robert (Se Sally Arthur Mary Ann Barbas Carry & Carry Antiuues Richard & Barbara C cvcland Jamie & Marcia Constance Janet Milligan Crary Richard & Alexandra Crissman

I’RESIDENT'S CIRCLE ($10,000 to $24,999) Nichols Foundation

MAJOR BENEFACTORS ($5,000 to $9,999) Elizabeth B. Janeway I-'oundation Price, Postcl &. I’arma I’aul & Leslie Ridley-Trce C. William & Nancy B. Schlosser Ruth Brtxiks Scollin Wells Fargo Foundation

PATRONS ($1,000 to $4,999)

Dean Witter Reynolds James & Deanna Dehlsen William B. Dewey Zelva Pierce Fischer Gordon & Constance Fish Priscilla K. Giesen Jean Smith Gtxxlrich Nancy G. Gray Harry & Leslie Hovey josiah & Karen Jenkins KDB-93.7/1M Lynn P. Kirst/Spcctrum Tours I'rances D. Larkin Kim l.azarus Patricia Lickcr Thad & Laurie MacMillan Francis & Patricia McComb

Stewart & Katherine Abercrombie Stephen A. Acronico Louise Duque Brant John & Patricia Broome Alger & Marge Chaney Charles & Patricia Cleek

Richard & Marilyn McCook Carrie Belle Mcl'ie Merv Griffin's Resort Hotel & Gi vcnchy Spa Donn L. IVIillcr Montecito Bank & Trust

Marilyn Chandler DeYoung L. Jane Gallup Benjamin & Ruth Hammett Lawrence & Astrid Hammett Perri Harcourt Michael Haskell

William & Nancy Myers David I'. Myrick Donald & Jane i’attcrson Regal Rents Michael & JoAnne Rtxlrigue Santa Barbara Bank & Trust

Hewlett-Packard Company The Glenn Holden Family Foundation MacFarlane, i-aletti & Company LLi'’ Keith & Nancy Marston Hugh & Anne Rhett Merrill Nancy Moure Jane Rich Mueller Leinie Schilling Mullin Raintree Foundation Rena Redmon

Teresa Wagstaf Siebert Molly M. Smith Joseph & Jean Stevens Stomper Furs of Beverly Hills Marie]. "Fhornbury Hugh & Mary Thorson Adcle Wilder

P. Paul & Pauline Riparetti Santa Barbara Parking Company Starbuck, Tisdale & Associates File Towbes Foundation Donald & Jo Beth Van Gcldcren Ivano Paolo Vit William & Barbara WoexJs

Shirley A. Wilson

SPONSORS ($250 to $499) AND Framing Services Arlington Gallicry Warren R. Austin Joan I5en.son Leslie Bernstein Dora B. Bradley Ernest & Gloria Bryant

Mary Louise Case Charles M. Chester Robert M. Chick Louise Clarke Timothy & Lani Collins Ben & Betty J- Conway Dan & Nancy Cross Robert &Joan Dewhirst Delbert & Sally Dickson George & jane Eagicton Robert & Lois Erburu Frank & Elizabeth Lee Ferry Four Seasons Biltmore Hotel Richard & Kay Cilcnn Richard & Katherine Godfrey Elsa Behr Grether Chris & Dee Gronbeck Rcxlncy & Betty]. Guilfoil Janette M. Hellmann Christopher Idill Rose Ann Hill Arthur L. Holt Rebecca Hollister J. 'ames & Barbara Hollister John & Josephine Hunter Cynthia Cox Huntting Cliff & Karen Kearsley Colleen Kirst J. Blake & Ann Koepfli Henry & Joan Levy Margaret D. Marble Charles & Cheryl Markham Lee McGrath Eileen Mielko Elizabeth Brtxjme Miller Sandra Moshin Gary & Anna Nett Chapin & Cynthia Nolen Mr. & Mrs. Gene O'Hagan Ojai Valiev Inn & Spa Margo Osberenko Katherine I’. Paschal! Bruno & Martha l^ilorz Wendi Brunell Plenge Frederica D. Poett S. Wayne 5: Ruth P. Powers Pro.servation Planning Associates Peter & Laura RenseL Kenneth & Mary Louise Riley Barbara Parker Robinson E. Walton & Shirley Ross Richard Maryan Schal! Arent & Jean Schuyler Jock & Sarah Sewall George Shattuck & Carla Amussen L. David & I’atricia Tisdale Alice Van de Water Sander 6l Virginia Vanocur Betsy Blcecker Wallace John & Stuart Watling Leroy & Sylvia Weller

Museum & Library: 136 East De la Guerra Sc., Santa Barbara, ca 93101 ● Telephone: 805/966-1601

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NOTICIAS Quarterly Magazine of the Santa Barbara Historical Society P.O. Box 578 Santa Barbara, California 93102-0578

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CONTENTS Pg 1.: Memories of Santa Barbara