April - June 2012
A MaXposure Corporate Media Publication
Get to know the glamourous Sush
India on the luxurious road Say cheers with Champagne
precious April - June 2012
A MaXposure Corporate Media Publication
Get to know the glamourous Sush India on the luxurious road Say cheers with Champagne
Chairman’s Message
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Biren Vaidya
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precious
CONTENTS Volume I • Issue I
April-June 2012 | Quarterly
04
CHAIRMAN’S LETTER COVER STORY RESPONSIBLE LUXURY
RIGHTEOUS AND RAVENOUS
06
Life, as Sushmita Sen knows and lives it LIFESTYLE CAPSULE BESPOKE
EDIBLE CONNECTION
12
Food for the true connoisseurs AMBROSIA
ICONIC CHAMPAGNE
16
Three of the world’s best champagnes Á LA MODE
WALKING THE HIGH STREET
The real and current picture of fashion in India
21
WANDERLUST
IRISH SIESTA
26
The simplistic beauty of Aran Islands WATCH BLOG GALLERY
WHAT’S TURNING TIME?
The newest revelations from Salon International De La Haute Horlogerie, Geneve 2009
32
12
page
COVER C RE DI T
Photo Subi Samuel, Bollywood News Service Hair and Make-Up Bharath and Dorris
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Cover Story
RESPONSIBLE LUXURY
Righteous and Ravenous
Sushmita
Synonymous with class and panache, Sushmita Sen surely knows how to rule the world Words Arnab Banerjee
M
eeting her is special indeed. Not just because of her persona or built, but because of the way she interacts with you and the numerous ways she makes you register her presence. Actor Sushmita Sen insists on taking charge, as the maître d’hôtel walks in with a refreshment tray in her room at Le Meridien. Not because she wants to be in command. But because Sen will have noone else serve you hot tea, “since you are my guest and I’d like to do it for you,” she says. When asked if her ex-Miss Universe etiquette have anything to do with these prim and proper mannerisms, she gives a plausible explanation. “I want you to remember our meeting, and I’d do my utmost to make it memorable for you,” she elaborates. Whatever be her motive or inclination, one is sure to remember this Hyderabad-born, Delhi-raised, Bengali girl, who “studied in a Hindi medium school till Class IX.” It’s not merely her ‘perfect host’ mannerism that catches your attention, her very un-Bollywood demeanour too sets her apart. From the sheen on her hair that beautifully fall on her shoulders, to her carefully casual gown that she dons, Sushmita expresses her methodical approach in everything she dabbles with. She also proudly introduces her daughter Renee, for the world to know, what she believes in, is what she is willing to share with the rest of the world.
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“
This Hyderabad-born, Delhiraised, Bengali girl, who studied in a Hindi medium school till Class IX, has made sure that the world will remember her
�
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Cover Story
RESPONSIBLE LUXURY
“
She also proudly introduces her daughter Renee, for the world to know that what she believes in, is what she is willing to share with the rest of the world
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”
Crowing glory Born a Sagittarian on November 19, 1975, her winning streak as Miss Universe 1994 catapulted this simple Air Force Golden Jubilee student to “unimaginable heights at a time, when I would have been just happy being a participant in the Miss India contest,” recalls Sen. Once in the reckoning, Sen knows how to capitalise on her strengths. “And I would go to any length to pursue my goal,” she says. A trait she probably inherited from her father Shubeer Sen, a former Indian Air Force Wing Commander and mother Subhra, who worked as a fashion artist and jewellery designer in the Capital. Like for instance, in 1994, at the age of eighteen, when she was pitted against the more popular Aishwarya Rai at the Miss India Finals, she knew from the judges’ reaction that Rai would be the undisputed winner. However, by the penultimate round, things were undeniably beginning to tilt in Sen’s favour, “and that’s when I realised that I had it in me to prove my detractors wrong.” What followed was a dream come true for her and all Indians - Sen represented India at the Miss Universe Pageant, held in Manila, and won the contest, making her the first Indian woman to become Miss Universe.
The big break Sen’s virtual fame in her Vasant Kunj neighbourhood in Delhi would have remained confined to the ramp, had the Miss Universe crown and the subsequent brush with Bollywood not earned her nationwide acclaim, as a glam sexy doll who could deliver too. Her foray into Bollywood was interpreted as just another flirtation by all those who ruled the roost then. Beginning with Mahesh Bhatt’s Dastak in 1996, Sen caught every cinegoer’s fancy as she “emoted with elan and danced with tremendous energy and elegance,” says actor-turned-director Pooja Bhatt, who also felt that Sen was far more confident in her first film than any of her contemporaries. “Be it Raveena Tandon, Madhuri Dixit or me, none of us had the supreme self-confidence that Sen displayed in her debut film.”
“
I had reached unimaginable heights at a time, when I would have been just happy being a participant in the Miss India contest
”
Unfortunately the film sank without a trace, and some soothsayers predicted doom for her. “But I knew when I faced the first shot that this was the profession I had to be in,” says Sen, remembering how on the first day, despite a perfect take, everything else called for serious re-assessment- from her hair, to clothes to make-up and shoes too. That was then. By the time she was doing her second film, she had already attracted enough attention from several Bollywood directors.
16 July, 2005: Sushmita Sen at a meeting with Munde seeking support to withdraw ban on Salman Khan’s film A P R-JU N 2012 | P R ECIOUS | 9
Cover Story
RESPONSIBLE LUXURY
Sushmita never exercised any restraint and believed in creating a bold image She chose all the wrong films, and allowed gossip pages in film glossies to be filled in with trash about her personal life. “A bindaas girl at heart, she had no inkling that she was actually falling into a trap,” says a co-actor. “She never exercised restraint too, and believed in creating a very bold image,” shares the actress on the condition of anonymity.
Bombed at Bollywood Her films bombed at the box office- nearly all of them – Zor, Hindustan Ki Kasam, Sirf Tum, Aaghaaz, Kyun...ki Main Jhooth Nahin Bolta, Nayak, Bas Itna Sa Khjwaab Hai, etc. But one did see a “sizzling actress in her,” feels Meghna Gulzar, who cast her in a challenging role against the formidable National Award Winner Tabu in her directorial debut Filhaal. “I think Sushmita was very natural in the film, in fact as good as Tabu, who by then had made a reputation as a volcano of talent,” says another award-winning actress, Rakhee Gulzar. Some actors have the ability to carry a film solely on the strengths of their acting talent. And then there are others who simply cash on the merits of their great looks, svelte figures and sex appeal. As a serious movie watcher, no points for guessing which one of the above, walks away with more votes, ie. more profits. It’s obviously the latter, since for most people in the entertainment world, filmmaking turns out to be more of a business than a pursuit of art. It thus came as a pleasant surprise to see a director of acclaim like Kalpana Lajmi (who had the National Award winning Ek Pal and Rudaali to her credit), join hands with one of the naturally-gifted but unsung actors of Bollywood, Sushmita Sen in her film Chingari. While Lajmi needs no introduction, having been a part of a family of great masters like Guru Dutt and Shyam Benegal, Sen’s reputation was at stake. And she did prove a point in films like Samay, Vaastu Shastra and Bas Itna Sa Khwab Hai and Farah Khan’s take on Nazir Husain’s blockbusters – the mindless but entertaining Main Hoon Na or her debut film Dastak where her prowess as an actor worth watching came into focus. In all these films, Sen deviated from the stereotyped Hindi film heroine’s conventional depiction and made her individual mark.
Critical acclaim After her reign as Miss Universe was over, Sushmita’s reign over Bollywood started. Her first movie, Dastak, in 1996, where she played the victim of a stalker, didn’t do well at the box office. Her subsequent Tamil film Ratchagan, was a huge hit. However, it was two years later that her appearance as Rupali in David Dhawan’s Biwi No.1 won her the Filmfare Best Supporting Actress Award in 1999. The same year, she was also nominated for her role in Sirf 10 | PR ECIOUS | A P R-J U N 2 0 1 2
Inspite of the crashes she witnessed at the box office, Sushmita has emerged as a strong actor who defies all norms and breathes life into any role
Tum in the same category, making her an obvious winner. She received critical acclaim and box office success for film Aankhen. So far, her biggest hit has been the 2004 movie Main Hoon Na, in which she starred as Shahrukh Khan’s love interest. Later on, she played a lawyer in Main Aisa Hi Hoon opposite Ajay Devgan. In 2005, she also starred in a remake of Cactus Flower, called Maine Pyaar Kyun Kiya, where Sen played the lead opposite Salman Khan and Katrina Kaif.
On the platter On what’s keeping her busy lately, it has been reported that Sushmita will portray the slain Pakistan People’s Party leader Benazir Bhutto in a film co-produced by Zaid Aziz and Henna Rai of Karachi production firm Vox Vision and Leicester-based Sum Films respectively. Tentatively titled, Benazir Bhutto: The Movie, the flick will be shot at various locations in Pakistan, the US, Britain and Dubai, where Bhutto had spent years as a student and later as a political leader in exile. Ask her about her high-politico role, she
responds excitedly, “Yes, I am keen to play the role.” Didn’t we tell you, she never shies away from challenges and once she puts her to test, “I do it to the best of my ability.” If accolades have always been pouring in, somehow controversies seem to be her middle name. The perfectionist that she is, Sen announced a film production company a few years back. She researched on her pet project on the life of Rani Laxmibai before making a formal announcement to play the eponymous role herself. “Sadly, I had to shelve it after several delays and many snags came my way,” she repents. Her newest release Karma, Confessions and Holi are once again in the news for her bold scenes and also because of her refusal to promote the film. ‘I am seething because the film isn’t done with post production and I refuse to be a part of a publicity campaign of a film which is incomplete,” she says in a fit of rage. But whatever be the fate of her films, one thing is something we are all sure of - that Sen will be always in the news! A P R-JU N 2012 | P R ECIOUS | 11
Lifestyle Capsule
BESPOKE
Good food tastes better with a little extra innovation 12 | PR ECIOUS | A P R-J U N 2 0 1 2
Edible Connection We often forget to applaud the tempting creations of everyday artists cooking food. Food design helps one to form a bond and leave an impression! Words Dushyant Bansal
Food not only fulfills the aspect of aesthetics or experience besides eating, but also relates to the story of its past, present and future. Telling tales of where it originated, which part of the world and in which season it is grown. Details of its cultural and social context, method of preparation and consumption, any specifications to a certain class of society (e.g. Peasant’s food) etc. all come into the fray. What it transforms into, how the process takes place and how it will be eaten. What if food could be made to narrate a story, its own or relating to an occasion or about its consumer? All answers lie in the designing of food, which strives to provide an experience far more satisfying and enjoyable, than when simply eaten. Transforming familiar foods into something new or reiterating a notion related with it to showcase something particular, food designing aims at creating a deeper emotional connection between the food product and the consumer.
Long Lasting Aromas With the boost of canned and packaged food, the longevity of food products has increased greatly. And with this advent, there is a growing interest in the ephemeral objects like food. Preparation and consumption of food, especially in the West, is now almost an unemotional act with the microwave culture. Designed food not only goes to the stomach, but can also call for strong memories and emotions. Food is not just an enormous industry with changing standards and perceptions, but also a hot topic in design and cutting edge creativity. Designers take into account not only the food itself, but everything that surrounds the act of eating. The atmosphere, the people involved in preparations, the taste and texture, sound, smell and colour of the food item and the way it is prepared and served. They make an effort to investigate the recent trends and visual developments, not only in the food industry, but of designs related to hospitality and packaging of food.
Design Sensitive The approach to designing food, as with any other product, changes with different designers. One of the earliest food designers Marti GuixĂŠ is a void of nostalgia. Food for A P R-JU N 2012 | P R ECIOUS | 13
Lifestyle Capsule
BESPOKE
Clay cooking enables you to build sculptures and bake food. The fun of this style of cooking is that food is revealed only when the pot is broken
Designers take into account not only on the food itself, but ever ything that surrounds the act of eating
Guixé is primarily an edible design product, an object that negates any reference to cooking, tradition and gastronomy. His sensitivity towards materials that are quick, readily available and oriented towards mass consumption, led him to become an important innovator in food design. He understood food design as a way to re-evaluate and redesign the structure around food, the industry and the consumer. Food Design as a discipline had its opening in Barcelona in 1997 with Marti Guixé. His exhibition ‘Food Furniture’ was the first where he worked with food as a product. The owner and creator of Proef, Marije Vogelzang insists that food is already perfectly and beautifully designed by nature. She designs from the verb ‘to eat’. She is inspired by the origin, the preparation, etiquette, history or the culture of food. That is why, instead of calling herself a ‘food designer,’ she prefers being addressed an ‘eating-designer’. Then how did she end up as a food designer, one wonders. Studying for a degree in textiles, she only started to focus on food in her final year. “It was born from a kind of laziness. I was standing in my kitchen, thinking: I’m here a lot and there’s so much food around me, so why not use it? It was just another material.” This approach is still central to her work today. “Food is my material, just like wood is the material of a furniture designer. While working with it, I realized that it has a lot more qualities than dead materials,” she says, quickly adding, “But I’m not a chef. I make designs and leave it to a professional chef to create them. If a shoe designer designs a pair of shoes, he also
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leaves it to a shoemaker to make them. I don’t have a chef’s training. OK, I like to cook, but there are far better chefs and even better dinner party cooks than me.”
Different Reasons, One Mission Marije Volzegang says that “If I style food, it is only to tell a story. I’m interested in the social and cultural implications of food, its effect on us and the way we treat it, the rituals we create around it.” Unlike Marti, Marije does not essentially want to break the strong link between food and nature, but to connect the food and the consumer emotionally. In one of her exhibitions, she created a room with interior elements made from food. The room had large windows which were covered with coloured icing sugar to somehow obscure them, thereby arousing public curiosity. For the same show, she also made a marshmallow room, with floor, walls and ceiling all covered in marshmallows. The room had an intense smell, reminding people of their childhood.
Marije’s gun-shaped lollipop
Roots, another experiment in cooking by Marije was to try and connect ancient eating practices with the present. Exploring the shared culinary history of British and Dutch root vegetables, she rediscovered clay cooking. Clay cooking enables you to build sculptures, bake seasoned root vegetables and create a sensory landscape. In ancient times whole animals were baked in clay on an open fire, and after being removed from the hot coals, smashed open. The cooked contents, in this case root vegetables, are only revealed when the clay shell is broken, creating a dilemma; that of breaking a sculpture to sample the warm root inside. It is an attempt to connect past and present on a modern table like an eclectic archaeological site. One of the most thoughtful products relevant today is Marije’s saccharine pistol. Calling attention to certain food habits, she has created gun-shaped sugar lollipops, symbolising what sugar can do to your body. Michel Blazy, is a French artist whose sculptures and installations are processbased interactions between food materials and the direct environment. For the ‘off-biennial’ venue of Entrepots Bellevue in St. Etienne, Blazy created a beautiful live installation of Givernysque pools of kombucha colonies, which is essentially a fermented tea made with fungus. Blazy and his team made giant pools of tea which they fermented with a rainbow array of gelatinous lily pads and rubbery, macroscopic fungal colonies. Thus making the tea ponds amass with healthful properties along with a bit of bubble. Owing to its special health giving properties; kombucha enthusiasts have in fact termed it as the ‘elixir of life’. Blazy’s work, which is sensual and humorous at the same time, demonstrates a masterful synergy of materials. It creates a harmony that productively harnesses the natural properties of food and organisms, thus bringing together the best of both worlds.
Michel Blazy tries to establish connections between food and environment through his work
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Lifestyle Capsule
AMBROSIA
Iconic Champagne There is a lot more to them, than being exclusive. Here’s what makes the revered champagnes, iconic Words Ameeta Sharma
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F
ew sights are as heartwarming as chilled champagne being poured in a shapely flute. Chances are it’s accompanied with sighs of pleasure, beaming smiles, followed by a few toasts and then the silence of gratification. Glamour, style, celebration and happiness are natural emotional accompaniments to a bottle of Champagne.
For the past few years, makers and promoters of Champagne are trying to emphasise the fact that it is foremost a wine but is enjoyable as an aperitif or an accompaniment with your meal. Yes, it is all of that, but above all, it is a glass full of promises, dreams and brimming with those tiny bubbles declaring exclusivity.
Glamour, style, celebration and happiness are natural emotional accompaniments to a bottle of champagne
After comprehending the nuances of the styles of champagnes, ranging from brut to demi sec; from blanc de blanc to blanc de noir (made of 100 per cent chardonnay and 100 per cent Pinot respectively) it is easy to discern as to why one particular brand tastes different to another. When thinking of Champagne beyond the ordinary, beyond luxury, one has to depend on personal selection. Wearing a watch might be essential for most, a Rolex a luxury for some, but the diamond-studded Rolex is beyond definition of luxury. Selection of these champagnes is on a similar merit. Just one difference in this analogy – while some might say a diamond-studded Rolex is too flash, just about nobody would say that any of these three champagnes are flash, for they have the merit of exclusivity. Why one particular brand tastes better to a discerning palate and how the exclusivity of terroir is translated into ageability of champagne is too technical a detail to bother with. Here we speak of the three that have maintained their status as the most desirable and exclusive of amber liquids in a bottle. And it is not about these Champagnes being higher priced than the others or how long they can be stored in optimum conditions to improve their taste and aromas.
Cristal Rose This champagne from the house of Louis Roederer was bottled in a unique bottle, specially designed for the royalty of Russia. While all other champagne is bottled in dark bottles with a bell-shaped bottom which makes them strong enough to cope with the pressure created by the champagne, this one is in clear glass with a flat bottom. This bottle is easily recognised because of its trademark. Though the initial reason for it to be clear and flat-bottomed was because Alexander II of Russia in 1876 was afraid of a bomb being hidden in the typical bottle. A Flemish glassmaker was commissioned to create a bottle with a flat bottom and it had to be stronger so clear lead crystal was used. Cristal did not become commercially available until 1945! And the Rose Cristal was released in 1974. Today it is prized as a delicious homage from the house of Louis Roederer.
Champagne Salon may be easily termed the hidden treasure of the world of champagnes
Cristal is truly a jewel, inspirational and elegant, made according to the strictest criteria, based on a process of selection applying to the A P R-JU N 2012 | P R ECIOUS | 17
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AMBROSIA
Champagne salon is released under the salon name only during exceptional years, averaging about three vintages per decade vintage, the cru, the village, the grapes and the wines. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the House’s ten most celebrated crus are used. Louis Roederer’s vineyards and winery are beautiful properties with classy touches in their tasting rooms. Even at the risk of seeming to boast, I must say, I will always cherish my experience of Cristal served from the magnum bottle over dinner at the stately private home of Rouzaud in Reims. In the 1995 film Four Rooms, the actor-director Quentin Tarantino discusses Cristal during a monologue stating that compared to Cristal, ‘everything else is piss’! In another documentary, one character advises the man arguing with his wife, to buy some Cristal stating that it will ‘make someone forgive you’. In India, the importers of Cristal is Brindco and the bottle may be enjoyed in many five star hotels and some stand alone restaurants too. Just find a reason to demand it.
Champagne Salon This particular champagne may be easily termed the hidden treasure of the world of champagnes. Made in blanc de blanc (100 per cent Chardonnay) style, it is critically acclaimed and is regarded as ‘one’ of the most expensive champagnes on the market. Salon along with Delamotte is part of the LaurentPerrier group. Champagne Salon was founded by Eugene Aime Salon in the early 20th century. The first commercial vintage of Champagne Salon was in 1921 and by 2006, in 85 years the house had produced only 37 vintages! Such is the standard of perfection they set for themselves for the quality of wine in their bottles. Following Eugene Aime Salon’s death in 1943, his niece inherited the company which was eventually sold to Laurent Perrier, but the legend and style as also the exclusivity continues to be of the same standard. The grapes used for Champagne Salon are harvested from various growers in the commune Le Mesnil sur Oger in the Cote des Blancs region of Champagne and from a proprietary vineyard known as Jardin de Salon. Le Mesnil sur Oger is a Grand cru rated vineyard area which is highest of three levels. Majority of Chardonnay grapes used for Champagne Salon comes from the 20 contract growers with vineyards in the Le Mesnil sur Oger and these vines are around 25 years of age, some being as old as 40. Champagne Salon is released under the Salon name only during exceptional years, averaging about three vintages per decade. In other years the wine of the grapes from contract growers will end up in Laurent-Perrier champagne in other years. Following the style of many champagne producers Salon too will not 18 | PR ECIOUS | A P R-J U N 2 0 1 2
release an entire vintage at the same time, holding back cases that are deemed worthy to spend more time ageing on the lees. Some bottles from the 1959 Le Mesnil vintage were kept on lees 38 years prior to disgorgement. These were then auctioned at Christie in 1998 and fetched bids five times over the estimated amount. In each vintage for this particular champagne no more than 60,000 bottles are produced. There is no big importer of Champagne Salon in India, though the enviable cellars of Imperial Hotel in Delhi do get a direct import.
Krug Grand Cuvee Krug’s founder, Johann-Joseph Krug is considered a maverick who realised his dream by turning his back on a comfortable position in an established champagne house and striking on his own. His ambition was to create Champagne with a unique taste and he succeeded. Subsequent generations have amplified it, bringing pride and passion to their craft. From meticulous grape selection, through the birth of the wine in small oak casks to the intricate process of ‘assemblage’, followed by years of ageing in cellars the resultant taste in the bottle is identifiable unforgettable – flavours, power, freshness and finesse all rolled into one. Many wine experts and connoisseurs regard Krug as a personal favourite and the ultimate expression of individuality. Often referred to as a living legend, it truly is a story of continuity of vision, passion and spirit. Krug is a revelation every time you enjoy it. Since 1843, this exceptional champagne has had its own fan following. There is no formula or recipe for Krug Grande Cuvee. Each year the family meets to re-create it. This is done with careful attention to minutest detail and only after six years of ageing is it declared to be in perfect continuity with previous Krugs. Krug Clos du Mesnil is the exception to the Krug rule of blending as it is the product of not merely a single grape variety and a single year, but of a single historic vineyard. The distinctive taste of honey is characteristic of Krug Clos du Mesnil. The 1996 vintage was awarded many points and considered a sensational interpretation of this exceptional vintage. Enclosed by a stone wall since 1698 the Clos du Mesnil is blessed with an unmatched microclimate, situated on a gentle south-east facing slope and sheltered from the weather by its wall and the surrounding houses. The Krugs purchased the Clos du Mesnil in 1971 and its full potential was restored through replanting in stages, with the belief that a champagne has more character when it is made with grapes picked from vines of different ages. The first harvest deemed to fulfill expectations was in 1979, the wine upon tasting proved to be so outstanding that there was a decision for no
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AMBROSIA
The selection of the vintage, the cru, the village and the grapes is of prime importance in the production of Cristal ‘assemblage’ justified by the quality of the single ingredient. In India Krug is available courtesy LVMH as it is one of their brands under the wine and spirit sector.
In Conclusion When wine lovers rhapsodize about “cult wine”, they are typically talking about ultra high quality, small production and exclusivity, with examples such as the California cabernet sauvignon blends like Screaming Eagle or Araujo Estate or a few other rare reds from around the world, such as Le Pin (Bordeaux) or Pingus (Spain). Champagne, however, is difficult as most of it is exclusive and individualistic. Hence who has ever heard of ‘cult Champagne’? Prestige cuvées like Taittinger’s Comte de Champagne, Veuve Clicquot’s La Grande Dame, and Moet & Chandon’s Dom Perignon, despite their exalted reputations, are hardly produced in the microscopic quantities that qualify for cult status by that definition. Indeed, Dom Perignon is rumoured to have a production run exceeding 1,00,000 cases annually. But then, there’s Champagne Salon, which sees an annual trickle of just 6,000 six-bottle cases, released only three of four times each decade. Rap songs don’t refer to it. Its packaging is far from bling, unlike Cristal’s gloriously translucent bottle or Dom Perignon’s sexy black curves and winged label. In those parameters, the ‘S’ marking Salon’s label symbolises the notion of singularity. There is but one version, made from a single grape (Chardonnay) and a single vineyard, the fabled Le Mesnil. There is no rosé bottling, no non-vintage cuvée, no sweet version - as all of Salon’s eggs are in one basket. That is confidence in quality for you – and it happens to be exclusive to a lucky few too.
Trivia on Expensive Champagnes According to Forbes, Krug Clos du Mesnil 1995 is the most expensive champagne that can be bought off the shelf. A single bottle will set you back $750.00 USD and you should buy it fast as only 12,624 bottles were ever produced. On September 27, 2005, A Methuselah of Louis Roederer Cristal 1990 sold for $14,730.00 in a London auction. The limited edition 12-bottle box sets of Perrier Jouet champagne was priced at 50,000 euros and sales is limited to a community of the super rich in the countries USA, UK, Japan, China, Russia, Switzerland and France. The earlier price record was held by a limited edition of Dom Perignon champagne, which went on sale in 2005, for 12,000 euros per three-litre bottle. 20 | PR ECIOUS | A P R-J U N 2 0 1 2
Walking the High Street
India may be on the radars of luxury brands as one of the most promising new markets in the world. But things will have to change further in the country for it to reach anywhere close to other countries in terms of luxury retail development Words Aditya Oberoi A P R-JU N 2012 | P R ECIOUS | 21
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Á LA MODE
E
ven as the economic slowdown slowly starts gripping India, it is still being seen as one of the promising new markets for luxury brands from across the world. Till recently, one of the most trying factors for brands trying to set shop in the country has been the lack of retail infrastructure and heavy tariffs here. Brands entering the country would require matching retail environments and that was one of the most important factors impeding the entry of these brands to the country.
Mall Confinements India as we all know does not have any high street such as the Sloane Street, Bond Street or the Oxford Street in London, rue du fauboug St Honorè in Paris or Fifth Avenue in New York. These are areas that cater to the needs of luxury retailing in terms of fancy buildings and neat streets. More over, luxury brands would always want their like-minded neighbours as they cater to the needs of high profile clients and would never want brands that are several notches below their league occupying spaces in and around their stores.
Brands entering the country now cut down on their profit margins and try to give their consumer prices that are comparable elsewhere in the world
With such a mindset, when these brands entered India a while ago, they had to remain within five star hotels’ shopping arcades as luxury retail infrastructure was unheard in the country that time. But slowly that too started getting exhausted as more and more brands started occupying spaces in hotels. Then it became imperative that brands willing to enter the Indian market have retail spaces matching their requirement. This is when some of the real estate companies in India sensed the need of having luxurious retail ambiences that not only cater to the needs of luxury brands, but can boost their business prospects as well. With the opening of UB City Mall in Bangalore and the Emporio in Delhi and some similar concepts coming elsewhere in the country, prospects in terms of luxury retail ambience surely is looking up. However, with fewer options placed before these brands, real estate developers are charging exorbitant rates per square foot rentals that are wiping the smile off the faces of CEOs of luxury brands.
Tax Impositions The other factor has always been the high tariffs that India demands from luxury brands. In a situation such as this one, such burdens are passed on to the consumers and those going in for these brands are the well-travelled class and when they have the opportunity to travel, why would they want to pay more and buy the brand that they can buy from Singapore, Milan or Paris? Brands found a way out of this too. They realised that if products were excessively priced, doing business in India would not be possible. Those who have entered the country now cut 22 | PR ECIOUS | A P R-J U N 2 0 1 2
People with more disposable income like to spend more on accessories
Fashion accessories like shoes, bags, watches, ties are hot picks in the Indian market
down on their profit margins and try to give their consumer prices that are comparable elsewhere in the world. Now India has several brands like never before from the world of luxury in different segments. From watches, fashion, accessories, jewellery to automobiles, home ware and private jets, India has many things for its elite population like it never did before.
has also been seen increasing in the last few months. There are several players in the yacht segment that are doing much beyond their expectations in India. Italy’s Ferretti Yachts, tipped to be the most luxurious yacht brand in the world, has several of its boats floating on the seas around India. UK’s Princess Motor Yacht is another brand that the elite Indian is going in for. Yet another segment that is developing fast is that of private jets.
Not Just Fashion
Mid-Run Takers
While fashion and accessories are somewhat meeting their target in sales, more expensive brands such as cars too are doing phenomenally well in sales. Rolls Royce Phantom for instance has more demand than supply in India. While the allotted number of Phantom for India is nine, the demand for the same hovers around 13. Some of the other luxury carmakers have also done exceedingly well in the country. Audi for instance is a clear success in India right from its top end model A8 to A6, Q7 and A5. Same is the case with Maybach, BMW 7 series and X6, Mercedes Benz S Class.
And it’s not just the top-end of the country’s population that is going in for some of these brands. What really is attracting these luxury brands to India is its phenomenal growth in its middle class segment. The youth segment is earning more and has much more disposable income than ever before. This is where luxury brands see the future of their business.
While these belong to daily-need categories, luxury leisure
It is members of this segment that will boost the sales of accessories along with the members of the elite. While the elite can buy all on offer at the shelves (such as expensive clothes that run into lakhs of rupees and watches running into lakhs and crores), the growing population of young Indians with A P R-JU N 2012 | P R ECIOUS | 23
Lifestyle Capsule
Ă LA MODE
The youth segment is earning more and has much more disposable income than ever before. This is where luxury brands see the future of their business 24 | PR ECIOUS | A P R-J U N 2 0 1 2
increased income, more importantly disposable income go in for such accessories as shoes, belts, bags and some ready-towear. Since Indians predominantly wear traditional clothes, especially during festive seasons, brands that have entered the country or the ones proposing to set shops here see majority of their revenue coming from accessories such as watches, shoes, bags, belts, etc. Indians are known to be big spenders for buying and distributing gifts during festive seasons and during such times, brands see major purchases being made. Even as the West reels under the unexpected economic crisis, with sales drastically falling for every single brand, luxury brands have a reason to retain their smile when it comes to India. According to some people associated with luxury brand retail in the country, most Indians who splurge on high-end brands continue to do so even now. Most of them pay in hard cash, often running into lakhs, and walk away with their favourite brands. However, brands are still far from reaching their targets. Most of these brands have come to India with long-term objectives while there are some that are hoping to make fast bucks. Those who are not happy with their business in their stores have been taking their products for off-site trunk shows and doing their business through ‘By Invitation Only’ exhibitioncum-sale in cities such as Hyderabad, Kolkota, Ludhiana and Chandigarh.
Changes Required India may be on the radars of luxury brands as one of the most promising new markets in the world. But things will have to change further in the country for it to reach anywhere close to other countries in terms of luxury retail development. Duties will have to come down so that Indians do not go elsewhere in the world and spend their money adding to the revenue of those countries. Low tariffs will make them spend in India and bring in revenue to our own country. If products are priced the same as they are around the world, it will also attract more tourists to India and make them spend here which is good for the economy. Yet another change required should come from real estate sharks. The luxury retail space offered in the country is as expensive as some of the other locations in the world. The difference here is that while they are as expensive as some of the other malls abroad, the surroundings and the approach to these malls are not similar to that of the other malls on foreign shores. Yet they charge very high rates of rentals and brands left with no other place to retail, end up walking into these malls. With all these factors falling in place, India surely can become one of the favourite destinations for luxury brands. With rise in income among Indians, especially among young Indians, brands can get what they want in terms of sales‌ and Indians too get what they want at their doorsteps. A P R-JU N 2012 | P R ECIOUS | 25
Lifestyle Capsule
WANDERLUST
Irish Siesta
Adventure, hospitality, picturesque locales and fun-filled evenings are a few highlights of Inis Oirr. Head on to discover a new way of life at this Aran Island Words Abhijeet Vohra
The ferry ride to Inis Oirr from Galway
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A view of the Atlantic Ocean A P R-JU N 2012 | P R ECIOUS | 27
Lifestyle Capsule
WANDERLUST
I
t was the month of August and in the mood for adventure, we friends decided to head out to a little island in the Atlantic. All of us had varied interests – some of us were university students, others software experts (geeks for the common folk) and then there was a couple of hippies. But we were bound by one factor, the desire to visit the Aran Islands, our destination.
The sunlit landscape of the Inis Oírr, one of the three islands that make up the Aran Islands, offers you more than the tour guide promises. Magical is an apt word to describe the countryside. The island’s heritage brings forth mysterious ancient settlements, which add to the excitement of touring this place. Located at the mouth of Ireland’s Galway Bay, the Aran Islands are a group of three islands with the largest being Inishmore (Inis Mór), the middle and second-largest Inishmaan (Inis Meáin), and the smallest and most eastern Inisheer (Inis Oírr). The bay is named after a river that marked the western boundary of early settlements and imparts an elevating feel to the environment. Travelling from Dublin, we were required to pass through the central low lands to the coastal mountains of western Ireland, particularly Galway. The Irish state bus took approximately six hours to reach the spot. Ravenous and tired after the drive, we were in dire need of food and shelter for the night. A pleasant sound of a college band practicing classic metal tunes in the middle of the central park, greeted us as we soaked in the surroundings and furthered our pursuit of lodging. We were lucky to find a roof and delicious dinner at the house of Goslings, a local family. After gulping down some food and drinks, I stepped out to enjoy the starlit sky while my friends lazed around. The scenery graciously provided me with some photo opportunity but I wished I had not left the tripod behind. Succumbing to my weary body’s demand for rest, I put down my SLR and drifted into a deep slumber in anticipation of the next day’s journey.
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The Goslings’ hospitality did not end with a generous breakfast alone. We were to board a ferry from the Galway Bay which would take us to the Inis Oírr and our hosts arranged to drive us down to our boarding point. At around 10:30 in the morning, we boarded the ferry. Dark clouds slowly took over the Galway sky as we sailed to a little piece of land shining under the scorching sun. The west coast of Ireland inherits a fairly wet and cloudy summer whereas the Aran Islands, less than an hour away on a boat, enjoy fairly sunny and warm days throughout the summer, making it the ideal season for a visit. Closing in on the islands, we could notice the unique karst limestone formations, an integral part of the islands geology, used in almost any form of construction across the place. Gaelic is a heritage and the first language of some 300 local residents on the island. Though particular about their culture and traditions, the natives are tolerant of tourists and extremely friendly. As we explored the place, it did not take time to feel at home, and soon I was in my shorts and slippers, ready to stroll around. The Atlantic Ocean was inviting, despite the water’s chilling temperature. I jumped in, allowing the water to take over and in a few seconds I was swimming as though it was the only thing I knew in my life. The sun glared down on us and the warmth was comforting. But it also taught me a lesson: Don’t leave home without a sunscreen, for as much as the warmth feels good in the cold water, you also get sun burnt, as I did.
The Aran Islands are a group of three islands with the largest being Inishmore (Inis Mór), the middle and secondlargest Inishmaan (Inis Meáin), and the smallest and most eastern Inisheer (Inis Oírr)
After a good lunch (enhanced with a pint of local beer) I set out alone to explore some of the hill tops and the ruins of an old fort and a castle in the area. Once I reached my destination, I felt sorry for my friends on seeing the breathtaking view of Inis Oírr. From the summit, I could not only see the entire island and its settlements, but also the beach and the vast Atlantic. The scenic beauty was perfectly complemented by the historic importance of the castle.
The rolling greens of the Aran Islands A P R-JU N 2012 | P R ECIOUS | 29
Lifestyle Capsule
WANDERLUST
The bare western coast of the island 30 | PR ECIOUS | A P R-J U N 2 0 1 2
Wreckage of Plasey
It is said that in the 1960s this cargo ship hit the coast and the crew was rescued by the islanders. To this day, the wreckage of this ship sleeps on the coast
The night followed quickly and we had a glimpse of Irish culture through a performance by a local band. The locals seemed to live on the philosophy that life is all about enjoying the finer things it offers. Everyone joined in the singing and dancing and as a silent spectator I enjoyed the merry-making, thinking how this jolly lot of fishermen managed to convert the small place into a haven for happiness. Next morning, we decided to go biking and explore more of the island. While the eastern coast is fairly inhabited, the remaining part of the island is bereft of any living soul – man or animal. From the western coast, one can easily spot the colossal “Cliffs of Moher”, a huge strip of vertical cliffs that drop into the Atlantic. Due to time constraints we dropped the idea of taking a walk over the cliffs and proceeded to see the marooned Plassey on the south western coast. It is said that in the 1960s, this cargo ship hit the coast and the crew was rescued by the islanders. To this day, the wreckage of this ship sleeps on the coast. Although it is not advisable to get on board the rusty ship, we still crawled our way into it and I managed to get a few snaps of the inside, including its toilet. Inis Oírr can be covered in approximately fours hours on a bike, which is a relaxing experience. Other parts of the Aran Islands are bigger and definitely need more time for exploration, but they also provide a deeper insight into the history and culture of the Irish mores. However, I’ll leave that for another trip, as I know I’ll be back soon. A P R-JU N 2012 | P R ECIOUS | 31
Watch Blog
GALLERY
What’s Turning Time?
The degree of sophistication demands excellence down to the last detail. Here is a look into the exquisite timepieces revealed at the Salon International De La Haute Horlogerie Geneve 2009 Compiled by Sasha Somya
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone Audemars Piguet Millenary Chronograph Since its renewal in 2006, the Millenary collection has been regularly enriched with new timepieces: a complete range of self-winding watches; several prestigious editions such as the Millenary MC12 Tourbillon and Chronograph or the Cabinet No. 5. However, a chronograph was definitely lacking in this range – a gap that has now been filled with this new model. The watch also has a sky blue tachometric scale on a chestnut brown background.
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The Lange 1 Time Zone is embodied with an off-centre dial layout, the twin mainspring barrel with a power reserve of three days, and an outsize date in a regularly produced wristwatch. It is also complemented with an easily adjustable display of the hour in a second time zone. An ingenious adjustment mechanism makes it possible to conveniently swap the home time displayed on the large dial and the zone time indicated on the subsidiary dial.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon à Quantième Perpétuel Testifying to the ongoing quest for absolute precision, the specific feature of this limited edition of 300 is that it houses an innovative silicon escapement. Assembled and decorated by hand, this mechanical automatic watch boasts of a 48 hour power reserve, tourbillion, perpetual calendar and moon phases.
Baume & Mercier Hampton Magnum XXL This year, the masculine model adopts a XXL size and incorporates a chronograph function to enhance its sporty nature. The entirely satin finished steel case and straps in black vulcanized rubber gives it an extremely virile and rugged appearance. The watch boasts of a chronograph and a bezel in satin- finished steel fixed by 4 black PVD screws.
Food design strives to provide an experience far more satisfying and enjoyable, relating to the food, than the taste
Wreckage of Plasey
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Watch Blog
GALLERY
IWC Aquatimer Deep Two The diver’s watch with a mechanical depth gauge makes a return after ten years in the form of the Aquatimer Deep Two. Like its predecessor, it shows not only the actual dive depth, but also the maximum depth reached during a particular dive. It features a semi-circular indicator on the dial, which records depths down to 50 metres. Its pressure measurement system is contained in a second large crown on the left side of the case. The water pressure acts directly on a membrane inside this crown and forces a pin into the interior of the case. The blue depth indicator moves over the white measuring field as the depth of water increases or decreases. The maximum depth indicator (red) always remains at the greatest depth reached.
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Parmigiani Pershing Tourbillon Ajouré Renowned for the exceptional quality of its manufacturing, the elegance of its interior designs and its innovative marine technology, Italian yacht manufacturer Pershing is the natural choice to partner Parmigiani. The elegant Tourbillon pays tribute to the virtuosity and skill of the traditional watchmakers qualified to undertake such technically demanding work. Its cage, visible on both sides of the movement, rotates every 30 seconds, giving it much greater setting constancy.
Frank Muller Galet The designers of the House of Franck Muller drew their inspiration from Nature’s art at its simplest: the pebble. ‘Galet’ in French refers to pebbles. Simplicity, purity and smoothness are the key elements of the design of the Galet Collection. With diamonds set on the bezel, case in 18 carat white gold and simple classic lines to enhance the design, this collection evokes calm and tranquility.
Vacheron Constantin Lady Kalla Flame The Lady Kalla Flame evokes the iconic Lady Kalla launched in 1982. This fabulous timepiece is brought to life by the brilliance of its 200 diamonds. With the case dressed in white gold, the watch embraces a diamond-set dial, echoing the flame shape of the gems. The bracelet is a natural extension of the case with its dancing cortège of precious stones that seem to twirl and pirouette at will. Each set of precious stones is selected with meticulous care to ensure that it complies with the strictest criteria regarding purity, colour and cut to guarantee perfect uniformity.
Cartier Baignoire An elegant feminine dream that revisits the brand’s major aesthetics codes: the straightness of roman numerals, long flowing lines and a dotted ‘rail track’ detail on the dial. Case and bracelet in 18 carat rhodium-plated white gold set with round diamonds, Cartier’s new masterpiece flaunts a silvered dial with sunray effect.
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MAGAZINE
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