DECEMBER 2009
Special Winter Resort Guide
Part one of our lowdown on the best places to ski and snowboard!
Meet the Consul General
Donna Welton, United States
Chef’s Corner:
Christmas Turkey!
Debito:
My favorite things
reviews, maps, local news, listings and much more...
Contents Meet The Consul: Donna Welton 4 Ski & Snowboard Guide 9 Skybus 17 Chef’s Corner 18 Restaurant Review 21 Bar Review 22
Mick’s Picks 22 Local Knowledege 23 Debito 24 Cinema Guide 25 Gig Guide 26 Downtown Map 27
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DECEMBER 2009 SAPPORO SOURCE
3
Meet The Consul U.S. Consul General Donna Welton
U.S. Consul General Donna Welton is coming to the end of her second year in Sapporo, where she has been an active member of the community from day one. She has a remarkably warm and sincere personality, a gift for languages and a deep understanding of art, culture and the Asian region. She talked to Sapporo Source about her experiences in Foreign Service, and gave us a surprising revelation about what she will be doing when she finally leaves the city after one more year here.
Kumamoto. That’s when I first got started being interested in Japan. Before I came to Japan I just wanted to travel as far from home as possible, and Japan was on the same planet, but pretty far away. It was in the 70s, so really no one spent a lot of time going to Japan from the United States -which isn’t the case anymore- so that was definitely unusual.
point where I had to choose one or the other, so I went with Japanese and majored in East Asian Languages and Literature and then in graduate school I studied Art History and Cultural History. SS: So, did you intend back then to go into Foreign Service?
Donna Welton: I was an exchange student in high school for a year. I lived in
DW: Yes, after I came back I was intending to major in western history, but decided I would keep taking Japanese classes because not many Americans spoke Japanese, especially back then. Then it came to the
DW: Oh, I had no thought whatsoever! I grew up in a little town in upstate New York that had a population of a thousand and more cows than people. It was a lot like Hokkaido. No one in my family has really spent a lot of time overseas, so I had no real idea about what you could do with Japanese except maybe be a translator. It really wasn’t until I got to graduate school that a friend told me about the Foreign Service exam she
DW：そうです。帰国後は西洋史を専攻するつもり
Sapporo Source: Tell us a little about the path you took to come here. How did your interest in Japan first start?
SS: And you continued to pursue your interest in Japan after you returned to the U.S.?
アメリカ総領事ダーナ・ウェルトンは、札幌に着任
ダーナ・ウェルトン （以下DW） ：高校の時に１年間
して間もなく２年が経つが、来札したその日から
交換留学で熊本に住んでいたのです。初めて日本
だったのですが、引き続き日本語のクラスを取ろう
地元コミュニティの一員として精力的に活動してき
に興味を持ち始めたのはその時です。来日する前
と決めました。 というのも、特に当時は日本語を話
た。非常に温かく誠実な人柄の彼女は、語学の才
は単に故郷からできるだけ離れた所へ行きたいと
すアメリカ人は少なかったのです。そしてどちらか
能があり、芸術、文化、 アジア地域に対する造詣も
思っていて、同じ地球上にありながら遙か遠い場
を選択しなければならない時がやってきて、私は
深い。今回、彼女は外交官としての自身の経験につ
所に日本があったわけです。当時は７０年代で、
日本語を選んで東アジア言語文学を専攻し、大学
いてサッポロ・ソース誌に語ってくれた。 それととも
アメリカから長時間かけて日本へ出かけて行くよ
院では美術史と文化史を研究しました。
に、１年後この街を最終的に離れた後の計画につ
うな人はほとんどいませんでした。今ではそんなこ
いて驚くような打ち明け話もしてくれた。
とはありませんが、当時は本当に珍しいことだった
サッポロ・ソース （以下SS） ：今日に至るまでの道の
のです。
りについて少し聞かせていただけますか。日本に
SS：アメリカに帰国した後も日本への関心を追求
興味を抱いたきっかけは？
し続けた？
4
SAPPORO SOURCE DECEMBER 2009
SS：では、その当時に外交官になろうとと思ってい たのですか？ DW：いいえ、何も考えていませんでした！私が育っ たのはニューヨーク州北部にある人口1,000人の 小さな町で、人より牛の数が多い所です。北海道に
was taking, and she said, “come along with me.” So I went and passed, and then I read about it and thought “Wow!” They paid you a salary, you got to learn new languages and there was foreign travel, and all this sounded like a pretty good deal to me, so I pursued it. SS: What did you do next? DW: I worked in public affairs, not for the State Department, but for the US Information Agency, which handled overseas American Centers and so on. I went to Korea for almost 3 years, and then to Fukuoka so altogether about 8 years. Then I decided if I didn’t go back to graduate school, I would never finish, so I left the Foreign Service and went back home, did my coursework and sat my exams for my PhD in Japanese Art History. And then worked for about 3 years as a curator in the Metropolitan Museum in New York, in charge of their Japanese galleries. SS: What made you return to Foreign Service? DW: Well, the museum world doesn’t pay that well! (laughs) And I was heading into distinguished poverty... But I really actually missed my colleagues and the work that I was doing before in Foreign Service. I’d had a chance to do some other things, so I was able to be reinstated as a Foreign Service officer, but by that time the Information Agency had been folded into the State Department.
とてもよく似た所です。家族の中でも長い間海外 生活を送ったことのある者はいませんでしたし、翻 訳者になる以外に日本語を使ってできることなど 考えつきもしませんでした。実際の転機が訪れた のは大学院に進んでからです。 そこで友人のひとり が、 これから受ける外交官試験の話を聞かせてく れて「一緒に受けようよ。」と言ってきたのです。そ れで試験を受けたところ合格し、説明を読んで「す ごい！」と思いました。給料をもらって新しい言語を 学び、外国にも行ける。 これがとても素晴らしい条 件に思えたので、 その道を選びました。 SS：それからどうされたのですか？ DW：広報文化交流の仕事に従事しました。当時は 国務省ではなく米国広報・文化交流庁でしたが、 こ こが海外にあるアメリカン・センターなどを管轄し ていました。韓国に約３年、それから福岡と合わせ て約８年間勤めました。そして、 このまま大学院に 戻らなければ卒業できないと判断し、外交局官を 辞めてアメリカに帰り、 コースワークを終わらせ、 日 本美術史の博士号の試験を受けました。 その後、 ニ ューヨークのメトロポリタン美術館で日本ギャラリ ー担当の学芸員として約３年間働きました。 S S：再 び 外 交 官 の 仕 事 に 戻ら れ た の は な ぜ ですか？ DW：そうですね、美術館業界は給料がそれほど 良くないのです （笑） ！それで極度の貧困状態に陥 り･･･。 でも本当は実際のところ、かつての同僚や 外交官としての仕事が恋しくなったのです。他のこ とをする機会にも恵まれて、結局、外交官として復 職することができました。その頃までには米国広 報・文化交流庁は国務省に吸収されていましたが。
SS: How did you end up coming to Sapporo?
SS：なぜ札幌に来ることになったのですか？
DW: Because I had a background in Japanese, I had a lot of assignments to Japan and around Asia. My specialty is public diplomacy, which is all the diplomatic interactions that are non-governmental. This time around, the Consul General position was a new opportunity and in order to move up the ranks you need a little broader experience, so because I spoke Japanese and had experience here, I felt I could make a contribution with a new set of responsibilities. This job gives me an opportunity to do a bit of everything.
アへの任務が多かったのです。私の専門は広報外
SS: Tell us about an average day as the Consul General. DW: There is no average day, that’s the best part of the job because you never know what’s going to happen. But, I usually start the day by spending about an hour reviewing newspapers, and looking online to keep track of what people think
DW：日本語の知識があったので、 日本や周辺アジ 交で、 これには非政府的な外交すべてが含まれま す。今回の総領事という役職は新たな機会であり、 昇進していくためには以前よりやや幅広い経験が 必要になります。私は日本語が話せますし日本で の経験もあるため、新しい責務をもって貢献するこ とができると思ったのです。 この仕事のお陰で色々 なことができる機会を得ています。 SS：総領事としての平均的な一日について聞かせ ていただけますか？ DW：平均的な一日というものはないのです。そこ がこの仕事の一番素晴らしい所で、次に何が起こ るか分からないのです。 とはいえ普段は、世界の情 勢についての人々の考え方を知っておくために１ 時間ほど新聞に目を通したりインターネットを見た りするところから一日が始まります。一晩の間にど んなことが起こったかをチェックしたり、特定の出 来事に対するアメリカの方針やある事柄について の地域的な意味合いといったものを再度調べる必
DECEMBER 2009 SAPPORO SOURCE
5
about what’s happening in the world. I see what things have come in overnight and sometimes need to review our policy about a particular event, or the regional implication of something because people will ask. There may be Americans who have been arrested that I need to keep track of, or people with medical conditions that need assistance, which requires a lot of consultation. Sometimes this requires getting back to Washington to find out what kind of assistance we can give them. I’ll spend some time preparing my next speech, because I do a lot of talking outside the office. SS: What part of the job do you particularly enjoy? DW: Well I’m a public diplomacy person, so getting out and talking to people is absolutely the best thing that I love to do. I particularly like going out to campuses and talking to students and finding out what’s
on their minds. Another thing I like doing... we often have a small amount of money every year so that we can give grants to organizations to further exchanges between the United States and Japan, and they are often very creative and interesting ones. So, this year we were able to take some of that budget and give it to the Ainu Association to support their partnership with the Burke Museum in Seattle which has a lot of ties with Native American tribes. So as the Ainu people are trying to re-establish their own cultural presence in Japan we thought that would be a useful exchange opportunity. SS: What are the challenges that the job provides and what qualities do you think you need to fulfill the role of Consul General?
the human part of every problem too. And I think it’s important to have a healthy curiosity, always wanting to learn something new. It’s frustrating if things don’t go your way, but if you have a certain amount of curiosity about why they’re not going your way, that can help you get through. SS: So what does the future hold for you? Do you have any plans beyond Sapporo and Japan? DW: I have one more year in my assignment to Sapporo and then I’ll go back to Washington to study Pashto and then I’ll be in Kabul as the public affairs officer at the American Embassy. SS: Really? Did you choose Afghanistan?
DW: Flexibility and patience! You really do have to be able to respond to whatever comes. Ruthlessly prioritizing your time is important, but you also need to remember
DW: Yes, partly because I studied Asian architecture and art history. That part of the world has an amazing legacy of architecture. I also wanted to have an assignment outside of North-East Asia
要があるときもあります。人から聞かれますから。
から補助金を出しています。そのようなプログラム
たいと思い、健全な好奇心を持つことは大事だと
逮捕されて監視が必要なアメリカ人がいるかもし
には創造的で興味深いものがたくさんあります。
思います。物事が思い通りに行かない時はイライ
れませんし、疾患があって助けを必要とする人が
今年はその予算の一部を北海道アイヌ協会に提
ラするものですが、なぜ思い通りに行かないのか
いれば、色々な協議が必要になってきます。 これに
供することができました。 アメリカ先住民族とのつ
考えられるだけの好奇心があれば、それが問題を
ついては、 ワシントンに連絡をとりどのような支援
ながりが強いシアトルのバーク博物館と海道アイ
乗り切る上で助けとなってくれることもあります。
が可能か確認することが必要となる場合もありま
ヌ協会との協力関係を応援するのが目的です。ア
す。あとは、 オフィスの外で講演する機会が多いた
イヌの人々が日本で自分達の文化的存在を回復
め、次のスピーチの準備に時間を使うこともあり
しようと努めている中、 これは有益な交流の機会
ます。
だと考えたのです。
SS：この仕事の特に楽しい部分は何ですか？
SS：この仕事の大変な所は？また、総領事の役割
DW：そうですね、私は広報外交が専門ですから、
を果たす上で必要だと思う資質は何ですか？
SS：今後については？札幌と日本を越えて何か計 画していることはありますか？ DW：あと１年札幌での任務がありますが、その後 はワシントンに戻りパシュトー語を勉強してからア メリカ大使館の広報官としてカブールに赴きます。 S S：本 当 ですか？アフガ ニ スタンを 選 ん だ の
外に出て行って人々と話すことが断然一番楽しい
DW：柔軟性と忍耐！実際どんなことが起こっても
ですね。特に好きなのが、大学のキャンパスに出向
対処できなければならないのです。徹底して時間
いて学生達に話をし、彼らの考えを知ることです。
の配分に優先順位をつけることも大事ですが、す
DW：ええ。アジアの建築や美術史を研究してい
他に好きなのは･･･、日米間の交流プログラム発
べての問題に含まれる人間的な側面も忘れては
たことが理由のひとつです。世界の中でもあの地
展のために幾つかの組織に毎年小額ですが予算
いけません。それから、常に何か新しいことを学び
域には素晴らしい建築物の遺産があります。それ
6
SAPPORO SOURCE DECEMBER 2009
ですか？
and South-East Asia where I’ve worked before. I previously worked in Indonesia, a Muslim-majority democracy which is a fascinating place, and thought perhaps that with my experience in Indonesia where things really do work I might be able to make a contribution in Afghanistan where people are trying to figure out how to make things work again. The frustrating thing will be that I won’t be able to go out and walk around, but it’s a part of the world I’ve always been interested in. SS: Best of luck with that! Thanks for talking to us today. Is there anything else you’d like to say to the readers of Sapporo Source? DW: I think I’d just like your readers to know that the Consulate is here 24/7 to assist people in need. We might not be able to do everything for them, but we might be able to give them an answer about where to find help. We offer all kinds of services and we do visa interviews for people who aren’t American citizens, twice a month. People who are going to be students, or are interested to study in the United States – we’d like them to know that we are here to provide information about the U.S.
に、これまで勤務したことのある北東アジアや東 南アジア以外での任務に就きたかったのです。以 前勤務していたインドネシアは、イスラム教徒が 大半の民主国家という魅力ある場所でした。それ で、物事が非常に順調に運ぶインドネシアでの経 験を活かして、今現在人々が復興の道を模索し ているアフガニスタンで何か貢献できるかもしれ ないと考えたのです。恐らく外に出て歩き回るこ とができないため、ストレスを感じることになる と思いますが、それも私がいつも興味を抱いてき た世界の一部ですから。 SS：幸運を祈っています！本日はお話いただき、 ありがとうございました。サッポロ・ソースの読者 に何かメッセージはありますか？ DW：領事館は困っている人を助けるため毎日２ ４時間対応している、 ということだけです。すべて に関して助けられないかもしれませんが、助けを 得られる場所についてお答えることはできるかも しれません。我々はあらゆる種類のサービスを提 供しており、月に２回アメリカ人以外の人々を対 象にビザ面接を行なっています。留学生を志す方 やアメリカで勉強することに興味のある方には、 アメリカに関する情報を提供するために我々が いるということを知っておいていただければと思 います。
Christmas Dinner at TK6! December 24 (Thursday) & 25 (Friday) 4pm until midnight Roast Chicken and Dessert 1,500yen per person Ladies receive a gift from Santa!
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N oel in F rance
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SKI SPECIAL
Ski & Snowboard The north wind doth blow, and we shall have snow… or so goes the first two lines of the traditional sixteenthcentury English rhyme, which could just as well have been written about Hokkaido around this time of year. And that means it’s time to fetch those skis or snowboards from wherever they’ve been stashed during off-season, wax ’em up and head for the mountains. This month Sapporo Source is pleased to deliver the first part of our ski resort guide – profiles of the major resorts to be found around Hokkaido to help you choose in which direction to head this year. In December, we’re going west and focusing on the 3 main ski grounds of Niseko (Grand Hirafu, Niseko Village and Annupuri) where a boom in foreign visitors has occurred over the past few years, and taking a look at two of the resorts closer to home that bear the label of our own fair city; namely Sapporo Teine and Sapporo Kokusai.
Guide
Niseko
The Sapporo Resorts
What can you say about Niseko than hasn’t already been written? Rapidly emerging as Hokkaido’s flagship winter sports area, the region has been transformed in recent years. One tip that is essential for any ardent powderhead would be to invest in the “Niseko United” pass. For just a few hundred yen more, you can ski your wchoice of Hirafu, Niseko Village or Annupuri rather than being tied to one side of the mountain.
If convenience is your thing, it’s hard to beat Teine, given that you can be in Stellar Place buying a new pair of goggles and literally be on the slopes 30 minutes later if you time the train journey right. Kokusai while not technically Sapporo, is a fairly short ride away and is a staff favorite if you’re in a group of mixed abilities.
SAPPORO KOKUSAI NISEKO
SAPPORO TEINE
DECEMBER 2009 SAPPORO SOURCE
9
SKI SPECIAL
Niseko Grand Hirafu In a relatively short space of time, the ski area and local village has undergone a radical transformation Course Info Type: Ski area and vilage resort Number of courses: 34 Lifts and gondolas: 17 Mountain peak: 1,200m (3,397ft) Longest course: 5,600 meters Groomed runs: Yes Off-course skiing: Yes Night skiing: 4.00-9.00pm (10.00pm holidays)
Average Temperatures DECEMBER
-8
JANUARY
-10
FEBRUARY
-11
MARCH
-7
Figures are average temperatures at mountain base.
Average Snow Depth DECEMBER
190cm
JANUARY
295cm
FEBRUARY
370cm
MARCH
370cm
Figures based on 2009-2010 season by averaging middle and end month values
10
SAPPORO SOURCE DECEMBER 2009
In the last few years, you could be forgiven for thinking that Grand Hirafu had been declared an international territory of Australia such has been the influx of Aussie investors and avid snow seekers in this part of Niseko. In a relatively short space of time, the ski area and local village has undergone a radical transformation with numerous new apartment buildings, bars, restaurants and a range of other recently established businesses springing up on any available patch of land. The momentum may have slowed a little thanks largely to the global economic downturn and the strength of the yen, but that doesn’t detract from the fact that Grand Hirafu is quite simply one of the finest ski areas on earth with “sick” volumes of powder snow (to use the modern parlance) and over 30 outstanding courses for skiers of all levels. What this all adds up to is perfect snow conditions in the heart of the Hokkaido countryside, but with a plethora of facilities aimed at the English speaking community that should make any visit, be it a one-day trip or a two-week holiday, a refreshingly accessible experience.
Geography and Climate As with the other Niseko resorts, Grand Hirafu benefits from a long snow season starting in November and running through to the Golden Week holiday in May. Temperatures don’t dip much below -10˚C around mountain base level, but can easily go much lower at the summit so facemasks are a good choice if you’re going up top.
Course Map
Most Difficult MORE DIFFICULT EASIER
SKI SPECIAL Accomodation The Hirafu area has become known recently for the expansion in ski apartments, condos and other rentable self-catering accommodation.
Alpen Ridge Apartments
Sulu Chalets
Local Attractions, Dining and Nightlife Hirafu is the only one of the three main Niseko resorts to have a small town at the base of the slopes, and as such is generally considered the focal point for nightlife and going out. A number of bars and restaurants have sprung up recently to take advantage of the boom in tourism, as well as a variety of older and more established businesses. One of the joys of Hirafu, is that pretty much everywhere is a short walk away, so go for a stroll and see what you can find. Here are a couple of our picks.
Access Train: Despite Niseko’s popularity, public transport is still not quite as convenient as perhaps it could be. From Sapporo: About 2 hours 30 mins, ¥2090. Change at Otaru for the Hakodate line then travel to Kutchan station (nearest to the Niseko resorts). From Kutchan, buses are available for transfer to Niseko. From New Chitose Airport: Travel to Sapporo or Otaru and follow the above instructions. Due to the lack of guaranteed seats, and the necessary transfer at Sapporo or Otaru, train travel is not recommended for first time visitors coming from the airport.
Alpen Ridge Apartments Alpen Ridge first opened for the 2008 winter season and is a good example of the high quality new developments springing up in the Hirafu area. Providing ski in and ski out accommodation, the western style furnishings are of an excellent modern standard and the apartments themselves have access to the slopes right outside the door. About two minutes from the heart of the village, close to the supermarket, bars, restaurants and onsens they’re perfectly situated for both skiing and après-ski. The Alpen Ridge development also incorporates a Ski School, Ski Rental service, personal ski lockers, staffed reception desk and onsite management team. One, two and three bedroom apartments and a selection of larger penthouses are available. Price are surprisingly affordable and start at ¥99,100 per person for a three bed, or ¥125,000 per person for a two bed apartment in high season, for seven nights.
Opening just over a year ago, Paddy McGinty’s Irish Pub is one of the more lively places to drink, popular with visitors and the throng of seasonal workers that inhabit Niseko during the winter. With a decent menu of bar snacks and western style cooking, there’s always something happening, and if you’re a solo traveler or looking to socialize with other skiers or boarders, the relaxed atmosphere makes it a good place to start. J-Sekka, the brainchild of UK-born, Australian turned local-boy-madegood, Shouya P.T. Grigg sits smack
Sulu Chalets These larger accommodations are suitable for extra large families or groups, with an internal interconnecting feature to bring two houses together as one is required. Each house is spread over three levels with five bedrooms and 3 bathrooms, providing large gas fireplaces, comfortable modern furnishings and fully equipped kitchens with modern appliances. They are located in a popular part of the village, with a short stroll to the nearest shuttle stop and walking distance to the family lift, convenience stores, restaurants and bars. If you have a large enough group, you can hire a five bed house sleeping 12 adults for as little as ¥38,900 per person for seven nights during high season. Contact Ski Japan on +81 (0)136-22-4611 for reservations or see the website at www.skijapan.com
bang in the center of Niseko. The last word in style and elegance, aside from the classy suites where guests can stay in immaculately designed accommodations, the building also contains the Sekka Deli, The Sekka Dining Bar, Restaurant Q and the Maki Sake Lounge cocktail bar. Popular with the well-heeled, and an enviable list of local and international celebrities, it’s not the kind of place you’re likely to find rowdy groups of drunken boarders, but if you’re looking for a quiet evening with elegance on tap, there’s not much to beat it in Hokkaido, let alone Niseko.
Driving: Approximately 2 hours by car. Take highway 230 and follow route 5 to Niseko. Skybus Express Shuttle: Scheduled service from New Chitose Airport: ¥5,000 per person (¥9,000 return) – includes ski and baggage transfer. Private charter door-todoor service - ¥35,000 for up to 5 passengers, charter services for larger parties of up to 28 passengers available. Lift Pass Prices: 1 day pass: Adult ¥4,800, Senior ¥3,700, Junior ¥2,600. 5 hour pass: Adult ¥3,800, Senior ¥2,700, Junior ¥2,000
DECEMBER 2009 SAPPORO SOURCE
11
SKI SPECIAL
Niseko Village The resort’s new motto “always in season” aims to promote the wealth of sports and adventure activities available throughout the entire year Course Info Type: General Ski Area Number of courses: 27 Lifts and gondolas: 7 Mountain peak: 1,170m (3,608ft) Longest course: 3,600 meters Groomed runs: Yes Off-course skiing: Yes Night skiing: 4.00-9.00pm
Average Temperatures DECEMBER
-8
JANUARY
-8
FEBRUARY
-7
MARCH
-1
Niseko Village is actually the new name for the area that long term residents or frequent visitors to the region may know as Higashiyama. The change of name also reflects a change of attitude and the resort’s new motto “always in season” demonstrates their concerted effort to promote the wealth of sports and adventure activities available in Niseko, not just in winter, but also throughout the entire year (a subject we’ll likely return to in the future). Sitting in the middle of the three main Niseko resorts, the mountainside has a variety of well-planned courses with many having consistent gradients for most of the descent, but they are slightly narrower and perhaps a little more challenging than Annupuri to the west, suiting intermediate skiers. With two large hotels right in the middle of the action, including the beautiful new Hilton Niseko Village, the resort is possibly the best equipped of the Niseko resorts to offer a full range of luxury-level dining and pampering without ever having to step outside.
Geography and Climate Official figures suggest that Niseko Village doesn’t suffer the extreme cold of many other Hokkaido resorts, but still has snowfall in spades, which makes it a very attractive area to ski. Visibility can sometimes be low at the top of the mountain sometimes making it hard to see more than a few meters ahead and conditions can change very quickly. Be prepared to admire the view from the top on your first run and then struggle to see your feet on the next.
Course Map
Figures are average temperatures at mountain base.
Average Snow Depth DECEMBER
110cm
JANUARY
303cm
FEBRUARY
404cm
MARCH
458cm
Figures based on 2009-2010 season by averaging middle and end month values
12
SAPPORO SOURCE DECEMBER 2009
Most Difficult MORE DIFFICULT EASIER
SKI SPECIAL Notable Attractions Both the Hilton and Greenleaf boast their own onsens (hot spring baths) with naturally heated thermal waters. Set outside with natural rock surroundings and views of the local scenery, there’s little better way to soothe aching muscles at the end of a long day. For those needing a little more intensive treatment, the Wakka Spa at the Hilton also offers a professional sports massage service as well as a range of beauty and therapeutic treatments.
Dining & Nightlife Many guests choose to take the shuttle bus into nearby Hirafu, where there are a wide range of independent bars and restaurants to choose from. However, the Hilton does provide a number of fine dining restaurants for those not wanting to venture back out in the cold evening. The classy Ezo Pub overlooking the Niseko Village gondolas has a natural stone walled design, serves bar snacks, pizzas and burgers, and also provides karaoke rooms for those wanting to try this particular aspect of Japan’s modern cultural heritage. Sizzling teppanyaki is provided straight from the hot plate at the Ren Japanese Restaurant, and for meat lovers the Melt Grill and Bar provides a range of prime beef cuts and local seafood selections.
Access
Accomodation
Train: Despite Niseko’s popularity, public transport is still not quite as convenient as perhaps it could be. From Sapporo: About 2 hours 30 mins, ¥2090. Change at Otaru for the Hakodate line then travel to Kutchan station (nearest to the Niseko resorts). From Kutchan, buses are available for transfer to Niseko. From New Chitose Airport: Travel to Sapporo or Otaru and follow the above instructions. Due to the lack of guaranteed seats, and the necessary transfer at Sapporo or Otaru, train travel is not recommended for first time visitors coming from the airport.
Niseko Village is a fairly self-contained resort with most of the accommodation being provided by the two main hotels at the base of the mountain.
Driving: Approximately 2 hours by car. Take highway 230 and follow route 5 to Niseko. Skybus Express Shuttle: Scheduled service from New Chitose Airport: ¥5,000 per person (¥9,000 return) – includes ski and baggage transfer. Private charter door-todoor service - ¥35,000 for up to 5 passengers, charter services for larger parties of up to 28 passengers available. Lift Pass Prices: 1 day pass: Adult ¥4,500, Senior ¥3,600, Junior ¥2,800. 5 hour pass: Adult ¥4,000, Senior ¥3,300, Junior ¥2,200
Hilton Niseko Village The first major international hotel chain to invest in the Niseko region has raised the bar considerably with regard to accommodation in the resort area. Formerly the Higashiyama Prince, the hotel underwent a multi-million dollar refurbishment to provide the kind of full service luxury experience not often encountered in ski hotels. Designed so that every room has sweeping views of the local mountain terrain, prices aren’t quite backpacker friendly, but are competitive given the standard of accommodation offered. A spacious well-appointed twin room during peak season starts at around
¥27,000 based on two people sharing. The hotel is situated literally steps away from the gondolas, offering true ski-in, ski-out facilities. Greenleaf Hotel Perhaps slightly overshadowed by the more upmarket Hilton, the Greenleaf nonetheless offers a decent standard of accommodation slightly more targeted towards Japanese customers than its international rival. With the “mori-no” chairlift right next door, you’ll be able to get up the mountain easily although if you’re heading for the top, it might be a better option to ski the extra few meters down to the Hilton’s gondolas.
DECEMBER 2009 SAPPORO SOURCE
13
SKI SPECIAL
Niseko Annupuri Course Info Type: General Ski Area Number of courses: 13 Lifts and gondolas: 6 Mountain peak: 1,156m (3,792ft) Longest course: 3,500 meters Groomed runs: Yes Off-course skiing: Yes Night skiing: 4.30-9.00pm
Average Temperatures DECEMBER
-4
JANUARY
-8
FEBRUARY
-8
MARCH
-6
Figures are average temperatures at mountain base.
Average Snow Depth DECEMBER
182cm
JANUARY
297cm
FEBRUARY
385cm
MARCH
423cm
Figures based on 2009-2010 season by averaging middle and end month values
Access Travel to Annupuri is similar to that of the other major Niseko resorts. For more information, see the preceding pages.
Of the three main Niseko resorts, Annupuri on the northern edge of the mountain is possibly the least developed with regard to international tourism, but for many visitors this is one of its main attractions. If you’re here to ski, and ski some more, this is the place for you. The mountain is marked by very broad and forgiving courses, there are plenty of easier and intermediate runs to get those legs used to being back on skis again before heading up to the summit. If you’re after a quieter way of life, with the convenience of Hirafu’s bustling community just a shuttle-ride away, Annupuri might be the choice for you.
Geography and Climate Perhaps its due to the northern orientation of the mountain, but a number of people have commented that Annupuri seems to get slightly more exposure to the elements, with visibility sometimes being quite low, and a chilly wind blowing into your face. This does have the advantage of bringing with it serious amounts of powder snow – in fact those in the know often claim that this is where the most consistent powder can be found throughout Niseko – but who’s to say?
Accomodation and Local Attractions The base of the mountain is quieter than Hirafu and is dotted with numerous smaller “pension” style lodgings offering bed & breakfast. You won’t find a tremendous amount of nightlife, and some of the restaurants shut up shop rather early in the evening. Nonetheless, there are several substantial hotel developments, the largest of which is the venerable Niseko Northern Resort Annupuri recently renamed and tastefully decorated in a Scandinavian style. Rates start at ¥28,875 for the room (twin based on two people sharing) during high season. Just a couple of minutes walk away is Barbecue House Moku-Moku-Tei where you can enjoy decent yakiniku, a type of cuisine strangely lacking in most ski areas, especially given its popularity with foreign visitors.
Course Map
Lift Pass Prices: 1 day pass: Adult ¥4,800, Senior ¥3,500, Child ¥2,800. 5 hour ticket: Adult ¥3,800, Senior ¥2,800, Child ¥2,300
Most Difficult MORE DIFFICULT EASIER Niseko Northern Resort Annupuri
Barbecue House Moku-Moku-Tei
14
SAPPORO SOURCE DECEMBER 2009
Gondola Station
SKI SPECIAL
Sapporo Teine
Course Info
For Sapporo residents, Teine is the most conveniently situated of all the major Hokkaido ski areas, given that it sits within one of the cities main wards. It’s probably best known amongst Japanese for playing host to the skiing competition in the 1972 Sapporo Winter Olympics –the first the time the event was held in Asia. Split into two zones, the lower slopes, dubbed “Olympia” have a wide range of courses from beginner to a particularly challenging slalom, and also host night skiing. The upper slopes, “Highlands”, have generally longer courses, deeper snow and a beautiful view of both Sapporo City and Ishikari Bay.
Type: Dual lower and upper ski areas Number of courses: 13 Lifts and gondolas: 14 Mountain peak: 1,000 m (4,065 ft) Longest course: 6,000 meters Groomed runs: Yes Off-course skiing: Yes Night skiing: 4.00-9.00pm (10.00pm holidays)
Geography and Climate Perhaps due to its proximity to the city, Teine doesn’t get as chilly as some of the other resorts, with average lows during the coldest months (January and February) reaching -7˚C. As with any mountainous area, occasional cold snaps can cause this to plummet considerably though, so be prepared. As would be expected due to the additional altitude, the upper slopes (Highlands) have more snowfall and thus a longer season, opening in late November compared to early December for further down the mountain.
Average Temperatures DECEMBER
-8
JANUARY
-11
FEBRUARY
-13
MARCH
-8
Figures are average temperatures at mountain base.
Access Train: From Sapporo Station: take JR Hakodate Line, about 10 minutes, ¥260 then bus to ski area. From New Chitose Airport: Airport service to Teine, 42 minutes, ¥1040. Or travel to Sapporo and change. JR also sell a package including train and bus transfer, ski hire and 1 day lift pass. Enquire at the station information office for more information.
Driving: Within the Sapporo city limits. From Teine-ku follow directional signs to the ski area. Skybus Express Shuttle: From New Chitose Airport: Private charter door-to-door service including luggage and ski equipment,100 minutes, ¥25,000 for up to 5 passengers. Larger group rates available. Lift Pass Prices: 1 day ticket: Adult ¥4,800, Senior ¥3,800, Junior ¥3,600. 4 hour ticket: Adult ¥3,600, Senior ¥2,800, Junior ¥2,000
Average Snow Depth DECEMBER
103cm
JANUARY
300cm
FEBRUARY
399cm
MARCH
438cm
Figures based on 2009-2010 season by averaging middle and end month values
Accomodation Given that Teine is part of Sapporo City, accommodation really shouldn’t be much of a problem. However, we’ve picked out a couple of our favorites lodging to give a range options for travelers new to the area. Sapporo International Youth Hostel If cheap is your way, it doesn’t get much more affordable than this. ¥3,200 will get you a no frills dorm room with shared bathroom. Reservations: +81-(0)11-825-3120.
ski center
most difficult more difficult easier gondola 4-person 2-person For highland zone take express lift from mountain base or drive to car park.
The Mercure Sapporo Sapporo’s newest and finest international hotel, the Mercure opened a matter of months ago, and is immaculately designed by renowned French interior guru Isabelle Miaja. With French style and cuisine on offer, and a location right in the nightlife hub of the city room prices are stunningly affordable starting at a shade over ¥8,000 per room if you choose the lowest rate. Reservations: +81-(0)11-513-1100. www.mercuresapporo.jp
car parking
DECEMBER 2009 SAPPORO SOURCE
15
SKI SPECIAL
Sapporo Kokusai Course Info Type: General Ski Area Number of courses: 7 Lifts and gondolas: 5 Mountain peak: 1,110m (3,608ft) Longest course: 3,600 meters Groomed runs: Yes Off-course skiing: Yes Night skiing: 4.00-9.00pm
Average Temperatures DECEMBER
-8
JANUARY
-11
FEBRUARY
-13
MARCH
-8
Figures are average temperatures at mountain base.
Average Snow Depth DECEMBER
103cm
JANUARY
300cm
FEBRUARY
399cm
MARCH
438cm
Only an hour away from central Sapporo, Kokusai is another conveniently located ski area (perhaps easiest to get to after Teine) and has a fairly limited but attractive range of broad slopes. Speedy “sky cabin” gondolas go to the peak, which is a bonus for those who regularly shiver on blustery high altitude open-air lifts. Kokusai isn’t the biggest of mountains with only seven main courses, and perhaps lacks the challenge of some of the steeper slopes elsewhere, but makes up for this by being a really solid choice for families and those who haven’t quite found their snow legs yet. Beginners will appreciate that they too can go right to the top and follow a sweeping trail all the way down, rather than being restricted to the lower slopes as often happens with bigger resorts. In 2007, to celebrate 30 years in business, the owners built a new café at the summit known as “The Cuckoo” so you can get a warming drink and enjoy the views of Otaru City before pushing off for another gliding run.
Geography and Climate With prodigious snowfall to the rival the best Hokkaido has to offer, Kokusai is reliable for most of the season although wait for the New Year if you want the best snow. Temperatures are a little cold for the region but not uncomfortable. The shallow slopes of the mountain combined with the high powder levels can cause some courses to run a little slowly, so maintain good speed to ensure you cruise all the way to the base and don’t need to practice your cross-country technique.
Local Attractions Kokusai is positioned between two major local tourist destinations. Otaru to the north is one of Hokkaido’s most historic cities and the former capital city of the island before Sapporo was designated that status. Jozankei to the south-east is famous for its onsens (hot spring baths) and has numerous hotels and places to bathe and soothe aching muscles.
Figures based on 2009-2010 season by averaging middle and end month values
Access Train: Not directly accessible by train. Driving: From Sapporo, take route 230 to Jozankei (approximately 35 minutes), then follow signs to Kokusai ski resort (about another 20-25 minutes). Skybus Express Shuttle: Private charter door-to-door service including luggage and ski equipment from Sapporo or New Chitose Airport. 25,000 yen for up to 5 passengers, larger parties of up to 28 passengers available. Lift Pass Prices: 1 day pass: Adult ¥4,800, Senior ¥3,800, Junior ¥3,000
16
SAPPORO SOURCE DECEMBER 2009
Course Map
Most Difficult MORE DIFFICULT EASIER
SKI SPECIAL
The sky’s the limit When Jeremy Churchill arrived in Hokkaido in 2004, it didn’t take him long to figure out what he wanted to do. “I found it hard to get around myself when I arrived,” he recalls, “and I assumed that there were many people out there like me, who due to the language barrier are limited in how easily they can travel.” His grasp of the language has changed since then, but his belief in making Hokkaido more accessible for foreign visitors remains the same. “At first, I thought it would be a good idea to provide an airport shuttle service where people can have an English speaker to guide them on arrival, help them with their baggage and get them to their hotel,” Churchill explains. “When travelers get off a plane in a foreign country and don’t speak the language, they are often tired and hungry, and just want someone to help them finish their journey with the minimum of bother.”
And so, to address this problem “Skybus” was born. Things quickly changed however when the Niseko area of Hokkaido experienced a sudden explosion in the number of foreign skiers arriving to take advantage of the region’s famous powder snow. “I started to get requests from tour companies asking if we could take their customers to Niseko and other winter resorts,” Churchill comments. Keen to rise to the challenge, he started to develop a scheduled service running multiple buses every day between New Chitose Airport, Rusutsu and Niseko. “It was a huge challenge at first”, he remembers, “trying to maintain a regular schedule when you’re often sending buses into mountainous conditions with snow-clogged roads and severe weather is a lot tougher than just dropping business travelers at city hotels.” Since then the company has gone from strength-to-strength and now runs services
to Sapporo, Rusutsu, Niseko, Furano and Sahoro, as well as private charter services to anywhere in Hokkaido. Last year Skybus carried over one-third of all overseas visitors going to the main ski resorts and this season looks to be the busiest yet. Outside the ski season, Skybus is becoming an increasingly popular option for travelers wanting to get to the airport. “We wanted to provide a way that people could go door-to-door from their house to within a few meters of the check-in desk at the other end, without having to drag their bags through the subway and train stations, or pay through the nose for a taxi”, says Churchill. And the future? The Skybus boss has no hesitation: “We’re working on our all-yearround services”, he says. “Quite a few people know about us as a ski shuttle, but as a service to take you from your home or hotel to the airport and back – that’s something we’re really keen for people to hear about.”
ジェレミー・チャーチルが北海道の地に降り立った
その後、ニセコ地方が海外のスキーヤーに爆発的
リゾートを訪れた外国人の3分の1以上がスカイバ
のは2004年。 ここで何をしたいのかを理解するの
な人気となり、有名なパウダースノーを求めて世界
スを利用した。今年はさらに忙しさを極めそうだ。
にさほど時間はかからなかった。 「北海道であちこ
中から大勢外国人がやって来るようになった。 「お
ち移動するのは大変だと悟ったよ。」チャーチル氏
客様をニセコなどのリゾート地に運ぶことができ
は当時のことをこう語る。 「だから、 自分と同じよう
ないかと旅行会社から要請が来るようになってね」
に思っている人、つまり言葉が分からなくて思い通
と、 この件についてチャーチル氏は述べている。 こ
りに移動できない人たちが沢山いるんじゃないか
れに応えようと、新千歳空港とルスツ、ニセコを毎
と思ったんだ。」その後自身の語学力は伸びたが、
日結ぶ定期バスを開設した。当時についてチャー
外国人がもっと楽に道内を移動できるようにした
チル氏は、 「最初はスケジュールの維持が大変だっ
いという信念が揺らぐことはなかった。 「最初に思
た。道路が雪に埋まったり、悪天候もしょっちゅうの
いついたのは空港のシャトルバスだ。英語を話す
場所でバスをスケジュール通りに走らせなければ
ガイドがお客様を空港で出迎え、荷物を運んでホ
ならないんだ。 ビジネス客を街中のホテルに運ぶ
テルまで連れて行くというアイデアはいけると思っ
よりよっぽどしんどいよ。」
た」とチャーチル氏。 「旅行客が外国に行っても、言 葉が分からないと疲労感が増すだけだろうし、 でき るだけ問題なく旅行ができるよう誰かに助けて欲 しいと思うよね。」そんな問題を解決するために、 『スカイバス』社は誕生した。
今日、スカイバス社は札幌、ルスツ、ニセコ、富良 野、サホロを結ぶシャトルバスサービスに加え、道 内全域をカバーするチャーターバス・サービスを提 供するまでに成長した。昨年は、道内の主要スキー
スキーシーズンが終わっても、 スカイバスは旅行者 が空港に行く方法として定着しつつある。 「僕たち は、 お客様がわざわざ荷物を引きずって地下鉄やJR に乗ったり高いお金を払ってタクシーを使うのでは なく、 ドアツードアで家からチェックインカウンター のすぐ近くまでいける手段を提供したかったんだ。 」 では将来の目標は？スカイバス社トップの答えは 明快だ。 「 現在我が社は年中無休でサービスを届 けている」とチャーチル氏。 「スキーシャトルのサー ビスはかなり知名度が上がってきた。 でも、今は自 宅やホテルと空港間の輸送サービスを、是非人々 の間に浸透させたいと思っているところなんだ。」
For more information about Skybus, go to www.skybus.co.jp
DECEMBER 2009 SAPPORO SOURCE
17
シェフのコーナー
THIS MONTH Bradley meets JAM BAYAT from THE KEBAP My first experience of Turkish cuisine as a chef started with the violent death of “Lambsie”, a cute little spring lamb that we picked up from a hobby farm. As Lambsie was petted and fussed over by his new friends, my Turkish colleague and partnerin-crime, Laven, was already plotting his demise and secretly, so was I. After expertly preparing Lambsie for the spit, Laven announced that it was time to visit his mother for the secret family spice recipe and ghee that would turn our little friend into an overnight sensation. From a room decorated in the style of the grand bazaar, this delightful woman sent us off, ancient magic in tow to spit roast our lamb, Turkish style. Everyone at the party agreed that Lambsie was delicious. Little surprise, as Turkey is internationally renowned for its kebabs, possibly the world’s favorite interpretation of a dish which can be found throughout the region in various forms. And it’s to this Mediterranean country we turn for this month’s guest - Istanbul-born Jam Bayat, owner and chef of The Kebap.
18
SAPPORO SOURCE DECEMBER 2009
シェフとしての私のトルコ料理初体験は、小さな農 場からもらってきた春に生まれたばかりの小さな 可愛らしい子ヒツジ「ラムジー」の非業の死ととも に始まった。 ラムジーが新しい仲間達に可愛がられ 世話を焼いてもらっている一方で、私のトルコ人の 同僚であり共犯者でもあるレービンは、 すでにラム ジーの死を企んでいた。密かにそれは私も同じだ った。 レービンはラムジーを串焼き用に手際良くさばく と、母親の家に行く時間だと言い出した。可愛い友 達を一夜にしてスターに変身させる一家秘伝のス パイス・レシピとギー （バターの一種） を手に入れる ためだ。子ヒツジをトルコ風串焼きへと変える古来 の魔法を携えた我々を、 この陽気な女性はグラン・ バザール風に飾られた部屋から見送ってくれた。 そ の後のパーティではラムジーは実に美味しいとい うことで全員一致した。 それも当然だ。 トルコは国際的にもケバブが有名 であり、 おそらく世界中の人々に好まれるこの料理 は、その様々なバリエーションを国中で目にするこ とができる。今月のゲストは、 この地中海の国に目 を向け、 『ザ・ケバブ』のオーナー・シェフでイスタン ブール生まれのジャム･バヤット氏。
Jam started out in the culinary business when his father opened a restaurant and he was soon helping out at an early age. He then moved on to work as a bar tender at a four star hotel in Istanbul. “My dream was to manage the hotel, so after I had mastered the bar and reception, I realized that everyone there spoke about four languages. I started with French and then English. I noticed we had some Japanese tourists as well, so I started to learn that”, says Jam. With some savings built up, he told his father he was undecided between a new car, or a trip to Japan. “My father decided for me”, Jam recalls, “He told me, ‘Go to Japan’”. That short trip was the beginning of a love affair with Japan that has lasted to this day. After going back to Turkey, it wasn’t long before he was pining to return here - “I really liked it here”, he says and moved permanently about fifteen years ago, working as a barman and a welder along
the way. He still harbored hopes of opening his own restaurant, and after much hard work he realized his dream seven years ago, opening The Kebap in Sapporo. Jam’s menu is packed with authentic Turkish dishes, plenty of kebabs as you’d imagine and some sensational salads. I tried the Mevsim Salatasi - a traditional salad of tomatoes, onions and feta cheese and it was delicious. It’s clear that Jam puts a lot of care into his work. “If I don’t like something, I can’t cook it so I cook what I like”, he says. “If you don’t trust your taste, you can’t grow as a chef”. His philosophy is simple - “Trust your taste. And don’t smoke! I pay a little extra to buy good ingredients - my customers notice this. I’d hate to think I missed out on a repeat customer because I used juice from the ¥100 shop!” I checked out some of Jam’s ingredients and it’s true; he uses some very good cuts of Australian lamb among other things.
ジャムは父親がレストランを開業したのをきっ かけに料理の世界に入り、間もなく彼は若くして 店を手伝うようになった。その後イスタンブール の４つ星ホテルのバーテンダーへと転職した。 「ホテル経営が夢だったので、バーと受付の仕事 を習得し、ホテルの人間は皆４ヶ国語程度話せる ことが分かり、 フランス語を始めて次に英語を学ん だんだ。そして日本人観光客もいることに気づき、 日本語を勉強し始めたんだ。 」 とジャムは言う。 貯金 もいくらか貯まったところで、彼は新しい車を買う か日本に旅行に行くか決めかねていると父親に話 した。 「私の代わりに父が決断してくれたんだ。」と ジャムは当時を回想する。 「父が言ったんだ。 『日本 に行け。 』 って。 」 そ の 短 い 旅 行 が 、今 日まで続く日 本 へ の 情 熱 の始まりだった。 トルコに帰って間もなく彼はこ の 地 に 戻ってきた いと強く思うように なった 。 「本当にここが気に入ったんだ。」そう言う彼は１ ５年ほど前に永住的に日本に移り住み、 これまで
にバーテンダーや溶接工の仕事を経験してきた。 自分のレストランを開くという希望を抱き続けてい た彼は懸命に働いた末、 ７年前にその夢を実現し、 札幌に『ザ・ケバブ』を開いた。 ジャムの店のメニューは本場トルコ料理であふれ ている。想像通り豊富な種類のケバブが並び、素晴 らしいサラダ類も取り揃えている。私はメブシム・ サラタシというトマト、 タマネギ、 フェタチーズが入 った伝統的なサラダを試したが、 これが美味しかっ た。 ジャムが仕事に細心の注意を払っていることは 明らかだ。 「嫌いなものがあれば、それは料理できない。だか ら私の作るものは自分の好きなものなんだ。」と彼 は言う。 「自分の舌を信じられなければ、 シェフとし て成長できない。」彼の哲学はシンプルだ。 「自分の 舌を信じること。 そしてタバコを吸わないこと！それ と多少値が張っても良質の素材を仕入れるように している。私の店のお客さんは違いが分かる。１０ ０円ショップのジュースを使って常連客を失うなん
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So what about Japanese food? “I was scared of Japanese food at first”, he confesses; “I always ordered pizza! I tried onigiri because it looks very similar to dolma (a Turkish dish of rice, onion and spiced meat rolled in a grape leaf) - but I couldn’t eat it. Now I eat everything, even natto and of course onigiri”. And life up north seems to suit him just fine. “I love Sapporo because it’s a very convenient place to live in that nothing is too far away. You can access nature, the ocean, mountains, restaurant and nightclub districts all within thirty minutes. To use てことは想像するだけでも嫌だよ！」私はジャムの a Japanese phrase, sumeba miyako...if you 店で使っている材料の一部をチェックしてみたが、 live somewhere long enough, you come to それは本当だ。 中でも非常に上質なオーストラリア love it. Jam carries himself with an air that 産ラムの切り肉を使用している。 says nothing would be too much trouble ところで和食はどうなのだろう？ and his easygoing nature is reflected in the relaxed atmosphere of the restaurant (where 「最初は和食が怖くてね。」と彼は白状する。 「いつ he even keeps a keyboard to indulge his もピザを頼んでいたよ ！ オニギリに挑戦したことも passion for composing music). I can heartily あった。見た目がドルマ （米、 タマネギ、香辛料の効 recommend The Kebap and its genial owner. いた肉をブドウの葉で包んだトルコ料理） そっくりだ For this month’s recipe, Jam has ったからね。 でも結局食べられなかった。今では何 recommended Karniyarik, a classic Turkish でも食べるよ。 オニギリはもちろん納豆だってね。 」 dish, which is great in the winter and easy to prepare in a small kitchen. 北の地での生活は彼に合っているようだ。 「札幌は ■ THE KEBAP: Maison 12 2nd Floor, 1-3, North 12, West 4, Kita-ku, Sapporo. Tel:011-757-7756 www.the-kebap.com Lunch: 12:00-14:30 Dinner: 17:00-23:00 Closed on Wednesday
Karniyarik
大好きだよ。何かが遠すぎるということない点、生 活するのにとても便利な場所だからね。自然、海、 山、それにレストランやナイトクラブのある場所も すべて３０分以内で行ける。 日本語で言えば『住め
ば都』で、ある所に長く住めばそこが好きになると いうことさ。 」 ジャムは、 手に負えないほどの問題なんて存在しな いとでもいうような雰囲気を持っている。彼の大ら かな性格はレストランのリラックスした雰囲気にも 表れている （彼の作曲への情熱を満たすため、 店内 にはキーボードまで置かれている）。 『ザ・ケバブ』 と その朗らかなオーナーは私のイチオシだ。 今月のレシピとしてジャムが勧めてくれたのは、伝 統的なトルコ料理、 カルヌ・ヤルクだ。冬にはもって こいの一品である上、 狭いキッチンでも簡単に作れ てしまう。 ■ ザ・ケバブ 札幌市北区北 12 条西 ４ 丁目
1−3メゾン12 2F（セイコーマートの 上） Tel:011-757-7756 www.the-kebap.com ランチ：12:00-14:30 ディナー：17:00-23:00 定休日：水曜
カルヌヤルク （ナスの腹詰め）
Ingredients: 2-4 small eggplants 1 small onion (finely chopped) 4 green peppers (finely chopped) 1 large red tomato (chopped) 4 whole green chillies Small handfull of chopped parsley 1/5 cup of olive oil 2 cups of frying oil (soy bean, canola) 150g mince (chicken, pork, lamb or beef) 材料： ナス （小） ：２～４個 タマネギ （小） ：１個 （細かいみじん切り） ピーマン：４個 （細かいみじん切り） 赤トマト （大） ：１個 （みじん切り） 青トウガラシ：４本 みじん切りパセリ：ひとつかみ弱 オリーブオイル：１／５カップ 揚げ油：２カップ （大豆油またはキャノーラ油） ひき肉 （鶏肉、 豚肉、 ラム肉、 または牛肉） ：１５０グラム
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1. Heat frying oil in small pot to 170 C 2. Slit the eggplants down the center starting 1cm from the top and stopping 1cm from the bottom. Do not cut right through - make a pocket 3. Wedge a chopstick into the pocket - this will help the oil circulate while it’s frying 4. Deep fry the eggplants until they are soft, drain well and set aside 5. Sauté all the other ingredients - except the chillies - until the liquid has sweated away. Turn off the heat and mix it once more to prevent sticking to the pan. 6. Now your eggplants have cooled down, you can carefully open the pocket with a teaspoon and spoon the filling in you will have some leftover, so keep that aside 7. Place the eggplants in a pan and saute them in olive oil and a little water with the lid on for 5 minutes. 8. Serve the eggplants with rice and yoghurt, topping them with the remaining stuffing mixture and the green chillies.
1. 小さめの鍋で揚げ油を１７０℃に熱する。 2. ナスの中央、 上から１センチの所から下１センチ の所まで切り込みを入れる。裏側まで貫通させる のではなく、 ポケットを作る。 3. ナスのポケットに割り箸を一本差し込む。 揚げてい る間に火の通りを良くするため。 4. ナスが柔らかくなるまで揚げ、 よく油を切っておく。 5. 青トウガラシ以外の残りの材料を水分がなくなる まで炒め、 火を消し、 鍋底にこびりつかないよう再 度かき回す。 6. ナスを冷まし、 小さめのスプーンで丁寧にポケット を開いて具を詰める。 残った具は取っておく。 7. フライパンにナスを並べてオリーブオイルと少量 の水を加え、 蓋をして５分蒸焼きにする。 8. 出来上がったナスをご飯とヨーグルトと一緒に盛 りつけ、 残りの具と青トウガラシを上に載せる。
The Zen of Grilling
Restaurant Review: Shiro Yakitori & Wine Meaning “white” in Japanese, Shiro is a stylish yet authentic yakitori bar in the upscale Maruyama neighborhood. Open only for dinner, this cozy place would be easily missed in daylight due to there being no big sign or fancy entrance to guide you inside. When the light fades however, a dim spotlight silhouettes the name of the restaurant through the white noren cloth, announcing that the place is now open. The interior is minimalistic and modern with white walls and warm natural woods creating a welcoming atmosphere. The beautiful L-shaped bar counter, made from a huge slab of kalopanax tree, is the centerpiece of this 36-seater eatery. In the minds of many diners, yakitori isn’t often associated with high cuisine. Meat on sticks…what else is there to say? Well, you might be surprised. Yusuke Ishikawa, Shiro’s softly spoken master chef has been conjuring his magic for over 17 years. He doesn’t just build a fire and start grilling. Fire is part of his art. He nurtures it, cares for it, knows its secrets, and appreciates its subtleties. He seems to be a perpetual perfectionist, always believing that there is a new discovery around the corner, and a room for innovation and improvement. When we turn up, Ishikawa is already at work grilling sunagimo (chicken gizzard) and leek on the same skewers. You might have noticed if you’ve been to a chain yakitori shop, where university students
grill for pocket amoney in their spare time, that you can’t find this on the menu since they’re two incompatible items that require markedly different grilling times. At Shiro, this doesn’t seem to be a problem, and by some method unknown, the chef seems to be able to bend the laws of physics so that the combination comes out perfectly cooked our recommendations. every time. Omakase (Chef’s Choice) selections Regular yakitori connoisseurs will are available for is 3,800 and 5,000 yen. be aware that patrons are often given the Shiro Special Nabe (hot pot) for 4,000 yen choice of having their selections served per person is available for two people or “tare” or “shiyo” (with sauce or salt). In the more (advanced reservation is required). A case of Shiro, we’d strongly recommend variety of appetizers and an à la carte menu the Tsukune (pressed minced chicken) includes popular items such as grilled whole served with the restaurant’s own signature macadamia nuts and cheese mochi, both of sauce, but do try the salt as well. No, really, which go well that go well with your aperitif. try the salt – that’s not a joke. If you’re Yakitori may appear to be simple food, wondering why any restaurant review yet requires care, attention and dedication would make special mention of such a to perfection to really make it stand out. seemingly mundane condiment, there’s good reason. The salt in this case is prepared Shiro excels on all counts. by dissolving Mongolian rock salt and 従来の焼き鳥屋のイメージを大きくくつがえし Nagasaki salt (selections may change) in てくれるのが、円山の「しろ」だ。今年オープン chicken stock, then boiling this down until 6年目になる店は、煙の匂いがしない。全36席 a crystallized residue remains…seriously, で、 せんの木の一枚板を使った白木カウンター席 that’s how they get their salt! は12席。 シェフの石川氏は10代後半から焼き鳥 Rather than buying pre-cut pieces を焼いてきたベテラン。 その抜群の焼き具合には as many yakitori restaurants do, Shiro buys whole cuts of meat, meaning that 定評がある。 まるごと一羽で鶏を買い店で裁くた more select quality and rare choices are め新鮮な上に、数は少ないながらもネックやソリ available. The Kawamata shamo chicken （ももの付け根） といった部位も楽しめる。秋田 comes from Fukushima and the Hinaiの比内どり、 福島の川俣シャモ、 アップルポークは dori chicken from Akita, while their apple 十勝、羊は白糠から産地直に買い付け、塩はモン pork is locally sourced from Tokachi and ゴル産岩塩と長崎の塩を鶏のスープに溶かして lamb from Shiranuka. 煮詰め、結晶化したものを使う。 日本酒や焼酎だ Cold beer is usually an indispensable けではなく、 ワインやシャンパン／カバのセレクシ companion for such fare, but you might be tempted to try some of the fine wines ョンも幅広く、女性同士やカップルでも楽しめる from the extensive wine list that includes お洒落な焼き鳥屋である。 a wide range of labels from affordable ■ Shiro, Yakitori and Wine: South4 West French table wine to Grand Vin. Sake and 24 1-24, 〒064-0804. Tel: 011-521-4060. over 20 kinds of shochu are also available Tue-Sat: 6pm-2am, Sun, Holidays: with Isojiman (Shizuoka) and fragrant Ju6pm-1am. Closed on Monday. English Yon-dai Junmai Ginjo (Yamagata) among menu available
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Bar Review: Jersey Bar Jersey Bar is like a faithful old friend for many longer-term expats in Sapporo. Despite a number of other “international” bars that have come and gone, Jersey keeps on trucking, and this month will be celebrating it’s eighth anniversary. A veritable Aladdin’s Cave, the bar has an impressive selection of memorabilia and assorted bric-a-brac adorning every wall and live sports, including a lot of hard to find American events are shown on a selection of screens. A long main counter dominates the bar, with seating by the 2nd floor window looking out onto Tanukikoji below. Unknown to many (even those who have been visiting the place for years) is that there actually is another floor –a small snug area
Mick’s Picks Wine expert Mick Nippard gives us his choices for December.
As the year slowly draws to a close and snow starts to fall in Sapporo there is only really one particular type of drink that springs to mind… sparkling wine, or if the budget allows Champagne. Yep, wine with bubbles! This time of year is party heaven, Christmas parties, end of year parties, New Year parties, and no excuse needed to drink and drink some more. And nothing makes a party go with a swing like a bottle or two of bubbly. Of course you don’t have to be in the partymood to enjoy a drop of sparkler. Any occasion is good enough. In the words of the First Lady of Champagne, Lily Bollinger, “I drink it when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and I drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it, unless I’m thirsty.”
My Picks for December If you want to raise the glass to another fine year there here are a few of my end-ofyear suggestions (all sparkling). DeBortoli dB NV Sparkling Brut I had a few glasses of this at Pete’s Bar recently and it went down a treat. As the name 22 SAPPORO SOURCE DECEMBER2009
accessible up a fairly well hidden flight of steps that probably won’t hold more than about half-a-dozen people seated on the floor, but is a great place to hide away with a few friends for a cozy chat. Beers are an eclectic mix from the standard Sapporo Classic to more uncommon and interesting brews such as Murphy’s Stout, London Pride and John Smith’s Bitter. Owner Ritsu Sato is a genuinely warm-hearted and amiable presence behind the bar on most evenings, and is always on hand for a friendly chat. Show your support for eight years’ hard work, and drop by for a drink or two. ■ Jersey Bar: South 3, West 6,
Chirorinmura 2F, Tanukikoji 6 Chome. Tel: 011-242-4335. Open 6.00 pm ’til late - Happy Hour 6.00pm - 7.00 pm. Closed Mondays
suggests, it was dry and very drinkable with fresh apple-like characters zippy acid. The price? Excellent! Not available around the traps. You’ll have to ask Pete where he found it! Domaine Boyer - Gontard (NV) Cremant de Bourgogne Brut You should be able to find this at one or two of the better wine shops in Sapporo – try the Maruyama area. It’s excellent value and you should pay between ¥2900 – ¥3000. Domaine Boyer was the first in Burgundy to make a sparkling wine, way back in 1836, and it tastes better than many of its more “official” rivals from the Champagne region, but is a lot cheaper. Dry and refreshing with loads of flavor. Moët et Chandon NV I don’t think there is a more famous brand in the wine world than this one. Available just about everywhere and really needs no introduction. Made by the truckload, it has its critics, but is very consistent -great to give or receive as a gift. Finally, I’d like to wish all the readers of Sapporo Source a Merry Christmas and a very Happy New Year. I hope Santa is kind to everyone! And of course, if you’re stuck for a gift this year, why not visit us at www.awines.jp and buy a mixed case. See you next year.
Local Knowledge
Hair Care In this month’s Local Knowledge, Sapporo Source meets Kengo Nobuta from Lala Hair Salon in downtown Sapporo to get the lowdown on how to make sure you don’t go for a quick trim, and end up leaving with a curly perm. Making a mistake when ordering a meal or directing a taxi driver will at worst result in an unexpected plate of food or a slightly more expensive journey than you’d planned for. And believe me, when I lived overseas I did both. Language is an issue when it comes to hairdressing too. Many women who visit Lala and don’t speak much Japanese are nervous about getting their hair styled the way they want, but here in Japan we have a number of unique hair technologies, and some baffling terminology that makes the chance of suffering a “hair disaster” that little bit more likely. There’s no substitute for discussing your needs directly with your stylist, but hopefully I can shed light on some of the jargon that you might encounter in many Sapporo salons, so that at least you have an idea of what to ask for before you turn up.
Digital Perm (デジタルパーマ)
Standard Perm (パーマ)
Air Wave (エアウェーブ)
The straightforward basic perm that treats hair to produce curly or wavy hair by using chemical solutions thioglycolate and cysteine. Does the job, but doesn’t do your hair any great favors when there are much better treatments available. Hybrid Perm (ハイブリッドパーマ) Uses a different class of “cosmetic-registered” chemicals that cause less damage to the hair itself. Often used by stylists on women who have damaged hair, which normally makes it difficult to get a good perm effect. Low-temperature Hair Relaxation (低温縮毛矯正) Essentially the posh term for what we used to call a “straight perm”. This is the latest method of hair relaxation; it has overcome the unnatural look that straight perms used to have by using a special lowtemperature hair iron and specialist solutions, so that a much more naturally straight look can be achieved.
Ok, now we’re getting into the serious end of hair treatments. Have one of these and your stylist will wheel out a device that looks like a prop from a sci-fi movie. Essentially it’s a small computer connected to special rods which are placed into the hair. The rods are gently heated and a chemical solution similar to that used in hair relaxation to produces the perm. The digital perm has a number of advantages. In particular, it causes much less damage to the hair than other processes, but has a characteristic called “shape memory” which means it lasts 1.5 times longer than a standard perm. The digital perm can also be used to add waves that look like ironed curls but are most prominent when the hair is dry, so you don’t need to use a lot of styling lotions, waxes or sprays to set the hair.
Hot air is applied along special pipes from a regulating machine. Similar in nature to a digital perm, the air wave finish has the effect of making the hair appear looser and lighter, which makes it popular with Japanese women wanting their hair to appear more like that of non-Asian women. Special Conditioning Treatments Everyone’s hair gets tired, especially after multiple colorings or perms with strong chemicals. Sometimes hair needs a little loving care to breathe life back into it. Treatments have the advantage of making perms “hold” better so that the style is more effective and maintained for longer. (1) Trecharge treatment (トレチャージ・トリートメント) Uses three different (treatment) solutions to quickly nourish hair and help styles to last longer, by coating the hair with the solutions one by one. Applied according to hair texture.
(2) Hahonico Ramerame Treatment （ハホニコラメラメトリートメント） Granted, the name is a bit of a mouthful, but this is a very popular treatment amongst my clients. A combination of 8 hair treatment products – 2 special shampoos, 3 treatment solutions (or conditioners), 2 after-treatment solutions, 1 no-wash solution. This is like a 10,000km service for your hair – and gives it the ultimate in endurance and the highest level of repair. Coloring Most women know that permanent coloring isn’t kind to your hair at all. There’s simply no getting away from the fact that stripping the color from the hair’s core, and then replacing it is a harsh process involving very strong and noxious chemicals. However, I would like to suggest one alternative for a more subtle shade change. Hair Manicure （ヘアマニキュア） A hair manicure coats only the surface of the hair with color so that it does not cause damage the hair core. The color doesn’t last as long and is not as strong as permanent coloring, but if you’re just looking for a slightly different tone, it’s worth considering. Your hair would thank you for it. Whatever you’re in the mood for, if you have any questions feel free to drop by our Salon any time for a chat and I’ll do my best to suggest the best treatment for you. ■ Kengo Nobuta works for “Lala – To Be
Beautiful” located across from the Okura Hotel on Denshadori in downtown Odori. Cuts start from 3,500 yen and Coloring from 4,500 yen, but mention Sapporo Source and get a 30% discount. To make a reservation, call: 011-252-6885
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Japan’s top nine... People often ask me, “Isn’t there something you like about Japan?” The answer is, plenty! Nine things I think Japan is peerless at: 9. PUBLIC TRANSPORT Overseas I’ve often said, “Drat, I need a car to get around!” But even in Hokkaido, I can find a way (train, bus, taxi if necessary) to get somewhere, including the sticks, given a reasonable amount of time. Besides, in urban areas, how many cities the size of Tokyo can move millions around daily on infrastructure that is relatively clean, safe, and cheap? Not that many. 8. SEAFOOD Food in Japan is high quality, and it’s difficult to have a bad meal (even school cafeterias are decent). Worldclass cuisine is not unique to Japan (what with Chinese, Italian, Thai, Indian, French…), but Japan does seafood best. No wonder: with a longer history of fishing than of animal husbandry, Japan has discovered how to make even algae delicious! Japanese eat more seafood than anyone else. Justifiably. 7. ONOMATOPEIA I am a Japanese kanji nerd, but that’s only the bureaucratic side of our language. Now try gitaigo and giseigo/ giongo, i.e. Japanese onomatopeic expressions. We all know gussuri and gakkari. But I have a tin ear for pori pori when scratching the inside of my nose, or rero rero when licking something, or gabiin when agape? Japanese as a language is highly contextualized (say the wrong word and bureaucrats sit on their hands), but the universe of expressiveness found in just a couple of repeated kana is something I doubt I will ever master. My loss. 6 PACKAGING Stores like Mitsukoshi cocoon your purchase in more paper and plastic than necessary. But when you really need that cocoon, such as when transporting stuff, you’re mollycoddled. Japanese post offices offer boxes and tape for cheap or free. Or try the private-sector truckers, like Yamato
or Pelican, whom I would even trust with bubble-wrapping and shipping a chandelier across the country (for a reasonable price, too). If you don’t know how to pack, leave it to the experts. It’s part of the service. Because as Mitsukoshi demonstrates, if it’s not packaged properly, it’s not presentable in Japan. 5. CALLIGRAPHIC GOODS I’m used to crappy American Bic ballpoint pens that seize up in the same groove (and inexplicably ONLY in that groove, no matter how many times you retrace). But in Japan, writing instruments combine quality with punctiliousness: People prowl stationery stores for new models (with special buttons to advance the pencil lead, twirl cartridges for multiple colors, or multicolored ink that comes out like Aquafresh toothpaste) that they spotted in specialty stationery magazines (seriously!). Maybe this is not so mysterious considering how precisely one has to write kanji – but I know of only two countries putting this fine a point on pens: Germany (which has a huge market here), and Japan. 4. GROUP PROJECTS Yes, working in groups makes situations inflexible and slow, but when things work here, they really work, especially a project calls for an automatic division of labor. For example: In my former hometown of Nanporo my friends and I were politically active, and we’d rent a room at the choumin center for a town meeting. Before the meeting, people would show up early to set up chairs and tables. Afterward, attendees would help put everything back before going home. I’ve done presentations overseas and the attitude is more: “Hey, you proles take care of the chairs – what are we paying you for?” Sucks. Nice to be here, where pitching in often goes without asking. 3. PUBLIC TOILETS Sure, public conveniences exist overseas, but they are frequently hard to find (I think shoppers overseas must have enormous bladders)
-- and when found, look like they’ve been through Lebanon or Somalia. Japan, however, generally keeps its toilets clean and unstinky. And pretty comfortable, too. Sure, I hate it when I’m turtle-heading and can only find Japan’s squatter-types. But I also hate being trapped overseas in a stall where strangers can see my bare ankles under the door. Besides, whenever I’m on the road in Japan and need a time-out, I head for the nearest handicapped toilet and bivouac. Ah, a room to myself; it’s a love hotel for my tuchus. 2. ANIME. I’ve read comic books since I was two years old, and I’ve long admired Japanimation and comic art. I can’t resist anime’s clean lines, sense of space and forcefulness, and storyboard style of storytelling. Once underrated overseas, Japan’s comics are now one of our largest cultural exports. Resistance is futile: Knockoffs are all over Cartoon Network (I love POWERPUFF GIRLS and SAMURAI JACK). Consider one knock-on benefit of a society so consumed by comic art: Japan’s average standards for drawing are very high. I come from a society with an enormous standard deviation in artistic talent: you either get stick figures or Pat Oliphants. Here, however, consider this example: I once gave an exam at a Japanese university testing spatial vocabulary. I drew a room on the answer sheet and said, “Under the table, draw Doraemon.” Amazingly, 98 of 100 students drew a clearly-recognizable Doraemon, most complete with propeller, collar bell, philtrum, and whiskers. Try getting people overseas to draw a recognizable Mickey Mouse, Felix the Cat, or even just Snoopy, and you’ll see how comparatively under-practiced drawing skills tend to be outside Japan. 1. ONSENS Of course. If you can get in. Ahem.
■ Arudou Debito is a columnist for the Japan Times and author of three books: Japanese Only: The Otaru Hot Springs Case and Racial Discrimination in Japan (English and Japanese versions), and Handbook for Newcomers, Migrants, and Immigrants (co-written with Akira Higuchi). His website, updated daily, is at www.debito.org. An expanded version of this essay is at www.debito.org/?p=2099.
24 SAPPORO SOURCE DECEMBER 2009
Sapporo Movie Guide United Cinemas Sapporo
Sapporo Cinema Frontier
(011-207-1110 Sapporo Factory, North 1 East 4)
(011-209-5400 Stellar Place 7F North 5 West 2)
よなよなペンギン/ Yona Yona Penguin (’09 Japan/ France) Dec 23~
The Twilight Saga: New Moon (’09 USA) Nov 28~
怪談牡丹燈籠 (’09 Japan) Nov 21 - Dec 2
Tinker Bell And The Lost Treasure (’09 USA) Dec 23~
Up (’09 USA) Dec 5~
The Rebound (’09 USA) Nov 27~
大怪獣バトル ウルトラ銀河伝説 (’09 Japan) Dec 12~
The Twilight Saga: New Moon (’09 USA) Nov 28~
Daikaijyuu battle Urutora gingadensetsu/ 宇宙戦艦ヤ マト復活篇 (’09 Japan) Dec 12~ Uchuusenkan Yamato Fukkatsuhen/Public Enemies (’09 USA) Dec 12~
銀色の雨 (’09 Japan) Nov 28~
Theater Kino
Ginirono Ame/機動戦士ガンダム 逆襲のシャア (’88 Japan) Nov 28-Dec 4
(011-231-9355 Grand Bldg. 2F South 3 West 6)
Up (’09 USA) Dec 5~
In the Attic (’09 Czech,Slovakia,Japan) Nov 21-Dec 4
仮面ライダーX仮面ライダーW&ﾃﾞｨｹｲﾄﾞMovie大戦/ Kamenraida X Kamenraida W & Dikeido Movie Taisen 2010 (’09 Japan) Dec 12~ スノープリンス 禁じられた恋のメロディー (’09 Japan) Dec 12~ Snow Prince Kinjirareta koino Melody/レイトン教授と 永遠の歌姫 (’09 Japan) Dec 19~ Reytonkyoujyuto eienno utahime/ウルルの森の物語 (’09 Japan) Dec 19~ Avatar (’09 USA) Dec 23~ The Fourth Kind (’09 USA) Dec 23~ 釣りバカ日誌20 ファイナル/Tsuribaka Nisshi 20 Final (’09 Japan) Dec 26~
The Informant (’09 USA) Dec 5~ スノープリンス 禁じられた恋のメロディー (’09 Japan) Dec 12~ Snow Prince Kinjirareta koino Melody/レイトン教授と 永遠の歌姫 (’09 Japan) Dec 11~ Uchuusenkan Yamato Fukkatsuhen/Public Enemies (’09 USA) Dec 12~
釣りバカ日誌20 ファイナル/Tsuribaka Nisshi 20 Final (’09 Japan) Dec 26~
Summer House (’08 France) Nov 21-Dec 4
USB (’09 Japan) Nov 28-Dec 4 A Documentary by Feng Yan Bing’ai (’08 China) Nov 28-Dec 4 Patti Smith Dream of Life (’08 USA) Nov 28-Dec 4 The Visitor (’07 USA) Nov 28パンドラの匣/ Pandorano hako (’09 Japan) Dec 5~
仮面ライダーX仮面ライダーW&ﾃﾞｨｹｲﾄﾞMovie大戦/ Kamenraida X Kamenraida W & Dikeido Movie Taisen 2010 (’09 Japan) Dec 12~
沈黙を破る/Chinmokuo yaburu (’09 Japan) Dec 5-11
レイトン教授と永遠の歌姫 /Reytonkyoujyuto Eienno Utahime (’09 Japan) Dec 19~
犬と猫と人間と/Inuto nekoto ningento (’09 Japan) Dec 5~
ウルルの森の物語 (’09 Japan) Dec 19~
あがた森魚ややデラックス/Agata Morio yaya deluxe (’09 Japan) Dec 12-17
のだめカンタービレ 最終楽章 前編/ Nodame Cantabile Saisyuugakusyou Zenpen (’09 Japan) Dec 19~ Avatar (’09 USA) Dec 23~
Waltz With Bashir (’08 Israel, Germany, France, USA) Dec 5~
Eatrip (’09 Japan) Dec 19~ Becoming Jane (’07 UK) Dec 19~ Katyn (’07 Poland) Dec 26~
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Gig Guide Tuesday 1st December BESSIE HALL - “Another way Another style vol.109”: 奥村慎 也(from TOKYO)/得能大輔/FAZZY CLOVER/ふくしれいを Open: 18:30 Start: 19:00 Adv: ¥1,500 Door: ¥2,000 KLUB COUNTER ACTION “Lock Em Away”: 闇鍋 / ジョンレ ノンvs火星人 Open: 20:00 Start: 20:30 Adv: ¥1,000 Door: ¥1,500
Wednesday 2nd December KLUB COUNTER ACTION “Lock Em Away”: 闇鍋 / ジョンレ ノンvs火星人 Open: 20:00 Start: 20:30 Adv: ¥1,000 Door: ¥1,500
Friday 4th December ZEPP SAPPORO - Straightener/ The Hiatus Open: 18:00 Start: 19:00 Adv: ¥1,000 Door: ¥3,800 SPIRITUAL LOUNGE - “Start Me Up”: JET THUNDERS / KING STAR FIELD / the GAINZ / The Fox / 飲 めない薬 Open: 18:00 Start: 18:30 Adv: ¥1,000 Door: ¥1,500
Saturday 5th December KLUB COUNTER ACTION - “Salon Vol 12”: Mouse On The Keys (Tokyo) / The Sun / Discotortion/ Qodilbop Open: 19:00 Start: 19:30 Adv: ¥2,000 Door: ¥2,500 SPIRITUAL LOUNGE - “Just A Hero”: ユキガラス / 白藍ナル / 黄金 クリムゾン（帯広） / 無重力スキッパ ーズ /昨夜未明 / 3Moon / Sink（釧 路）Open: 18:00 Start: 18:30 Adv: ¥1,000 Door: ¥1,500
Sunday 6th December BESSIE HALL - “Guitar Wolf On Stage”: Guitar Wolf Open: 17:30 Start: 18:00 Adv: ¥3,969
Thursday 10th December BESSIE HALL - Ogre You Asshole Open: 17:30 Start: 18:30 Adv: ¥2,800
Friday 11th December SOUND LAB MOLE - “In The Attic”: bright color section 3 / 闇 鍋 / Addiction / Open: 17:30 Start: 18:00 Adv: ¥1,000 Adv: ¥1,500
ZEPP SAPPORO - “ASIAN KUNG-FU GENERATION Tour 2009 〜酔杯リターンズ〜” : ASIAN KUNG-FU GENERATION Open: 18:30 Adv: 17:30 Start: 18:30 Adv: ¥4,300
Saturday 12th December SPIRITUAL LOUNGE - “Beatles Boots Stomp! #7”: キノコホテル （東京）/ マツボックリマンTheギネ ス / ロス・ガリレオス /波止場のハイ ヒール / GreenAppleQuickStep. DJ : Montana Jon (THEE DOSANKO JONES) / NOTTY / シュウ嵯峨野（ロ ス・ガリレオス）Open: 19:00 Start: 19:30 Adv: ¥1,500 Door: ¥2,000
Sunday 13th December SOUND LAB MOLE - “In The Attic”: nemoshica: / MYresQ / ル リトラノ / B-CAPS / ノーファンカフ リスキー★オーヴァードッグス / aj) nart. / copabonitos Open: 19:00 Start: 19:30 Adv: ¥1,500 Door: ¥2,000
Open: 19:00 Start: 19:30 Adv: ¥1,000 Door: ¥1,500 ZEPP SAPPORO - The Platters Open: 18:30 Start: 19:00 Adv: ¥10,500
Sunday 20th December KLUB COUNTER ACTION - “BIG BANG FESTA’ vol 11 Xmas special”: ルーツ道産子ロ ッカーズ/Cosmic stew/The Boot legs/moo-tala’s(from SADO)/3/ YARA&OSAMU Open: 19:30 Start: 20:00 Adv: ¥1,000 Door: ¥1,500
Tuesday 22nd December KLUB COUNTER ACTION - “メテ オストローム”: アシュラシンドローム/ ALICE Pack/Jake stone garage/JET THUNDERS/mondaysick Open: 19:30 Start: 20:00 Adv: ¥1,000 Door: ¥1,500
Thursday 23rd December SPIRITUAL LOUNGE “Tapestry”: 水玉さがし / 上海（旭 川）/ いまさらイスラエル / Weed / 転び音 / ブリキロジック / KっOpen: 18:00 Start: 18:30 Adv: ¥1,000 Door: ¥1,500
Monday 14th December
Thursday 24th December
BESSIE HALL - “Uncut Pebbles Vol. 232”: SAKAZUKI/Arkhe/ White Album/Arkhe/POCKY BODY/シナモンロール Open/Start: TBC Door: ¥1,500 Adv: ¥2,000
KLUB COUNTER ACTION - “ハキ ダメGIG 6”: COSMOS/DEAD FISH BOYS/THE f.POSTMANS Open: 20:00 Start: 20:30 Adv: ¥1,000 Door: ¥1,500
ZEPP SAPPORO - Earth, Wind & Fire Open: 18:00 Start: 18:30 Adv: ¥10,500
Wednesday 16th December SOUND LAB MOLE - “North Music Vol. 1”: The stimulus / Dwarves / Avenging angel / SMILY_SUN_STAGE / NorthBug Open: 18:00 Start: 18:20 Door: ¥500 Adv: ¥1,000
Thursday 17th December COLONY - “COSMIC DISCO COSMIC ROCK”vol.1: FUZZY CONTROL/Who the Bitch/ アシ ュラ・シンドローム/raufen/Q-HOT ROOM/66-inch(苫小牧)/primary color, ROLL(旭川) Open/Start: 18:30 Adv: ¥1,500 KLUB COUNTER ACTION “CRASH and BORN YEAR END SPECIAL”: SERVICE ACE/The f.POSTMANS/baB/bandalize/ supporting-me/AIGHT/TAGNUTS
SPIRITUAL LOUNGE - “Silent Night Rider”: オレオ / ネコライダ ー / Mushroom（函館）Open: 18:00 Start: 18:30 Adv: ¥1,000 Door: ¥1,500
Saturday 26th December KLUB COUNTER ACTION - “Teddy Boy Nite”: SUPER SHUFFLE/札幌犬神サーカス団/ THE JUNKEEY’/ロス・ガリレオ ス/SWINDLES/SO LONG TBN (MUSCLE & YAGI with Special Guest T.KOZZIE & many more) Open/Start: 20:00 Adv: ¥1,500 Door: ¥2,000
Sunday 27th December SPIRITUAL LOUNGE - “Just A Hero”: POP SIDE / HOT ROD BIRD（帯広）/ ROCK THE PARTY / PISTOL BOOGIE SUICIDE / scars / THE HARD FOLK STATION / GUN SLINGER Open: 17:30 Start: 18:00 Adv: ¥1,000 Door: ¥1,500
Tuesday 29th December KLUB COUNTER ACTION - “Pig Carnival”: filosofem/hellne/ evylock/roguery/YOLICO/KEEP IT REAL(函館)/hammer head shark/ BREAK NEW GROUND Open: 19:30 Start: 20:00 Adv: ¥1,000 Door: ¥1,500 SPIRITUAL LOUNGE - “HALL SPIRITUAL LOUNGE忘年会 2009”: the武田組 / 46°halo / Cell the rough butch / 8BEAT TREATMENTS / xi / mondaysick / 転び音 / The last bus to London / color chord / Sail / 4points / supernova / Wanderlust / リキュー ルリキッド / KISS KISS KISS / リン ダリンダラバーソウル / ザ・チャイム ズ / トゲトゲゴム Open: 15:30 Start: 15:30 Adv: ¥2,500 Door: ¥2,500
Friday 30th December SPIRITUAL LOUNGE - “Like A Daydream Vol. 13”: The Last bus to London(室蘭) / 4points / NO-SATSU BATTERY(函館) / 3MOON Open: 18:00 Start: 18:30 Adv: ¥1,000 Door: ¥1,500
Saturday 31st December COLONY - “カウントダウン COLONY10’ & ススキノハウジング 年末スペシャル”: ナナイロマン/ 円山 エクスタシー/Alvaro/primary color, sealion/theパン工場/ QUASAR/ 花 フェスタ Open/Start: 20:00 Door: Free (2 xDrink Ticket ¥1,000) KLUB COUNTER ACTION - “KILL THE PUNK ROCK FAKERS”: SLANG/supportingme/YUKIGUNI/OI!VALCANS/ PITTRISK/BASEBALL KNUCKLE Open: 20:00 Start: 20:30 Door: ¥500
LIVE HOUSE INFO Bessie Hall 011-221-6076/bessiehall.jp Colony 011-532-3329/colony6.com Klub Counter Action 011-222-1413/ klubcounteraction.com Sound Lab Mole 011-207-5101/mole-sapporo.jp Spiritual Lounge 011-221-9199/ spirituallounge.jp Zepp Sapporo 011-532-6969/zepp.co.jp
In the downtown area, Sapporo Source can be found at any of these locations 1. Mercure Hotel 2. APA Hotel 3. Arimax Hotel 4. Tokyu Excel Hotel 5. Garden Palace Hotel 6. Grand Hotel 7. ANA Hotel 8. Prince Hotel 9. Century Royal Hotel 10. Dormy Inn 11. Novotel Sapporo 12. Clair Hotel 13. Leo Palace Hotel 14. Monterey Hotel 15. Crest Hotel 16. Crescent Hotel 17. Polestar Hotel 18. Sapporo House Youth Hostel 19. JR Tower Hotel (Nikko Hotel) 20. Hotel Okura 21. Chisun Grand Hotel 22. Rasso Iceberg Hotel 23. Green Hotel 1 24. Green Hotel 2 25. Toyoko Inn 26. Hotel Paco Junior 27. Hotel Royal Stay 28. Blue Wave Hotel 29. Green Hotel 3 30. Daichi Hotel 31. APA Hotel Susukino 32. Korakuen Hotel 33. Royce Shop & Cafe 34. Jersey Bar 35. TK6 Bar and Grill 36. Yukikaze 37. Omnidentix 38. Taj Mahal 39 Sombrero Mexicano 40 Lala Hair Salon 41. Kinokuniya 42. Pete’s Bar 43. Pinot 44. Habana 45. Stanley Market 46. Shichifukujin Shoten
DECEMBER 2009 SAPPORO SOURCE
27
コールドウエルバンカー札幌店
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