Sapporo Source - Issue 6 - February, March 2010 by Richard Hopkins

SAPPORO’S ONLY INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE

FEB/MAR 2010

The Lowdown on Valentine’s, Debito on Middle Age, Toyota Big Air... plus News, Information and Reviews

Snow Festival: Everything you need to know

Sapporo reveals its sweeter side

Ski Hokkaido: Our Complete Resort Guide FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

「キュイジーヌ・リベルテ～自由な発想で～」をコンセプトに1月より、フレンチに"和”の素材を取り入れたメニューを皆様にご提供しております。「シューフォルシー稚内産真鯛と青ジゾ、オボロ昆布のキャベツ包み、カツオ風味ソース」や「北海道産牛フィレ肉のロゼ、山葵とグリーンペッパーソース」など、北海道の「旬」の素材を取り入れ、新しいフレンチをご提案します。エグゼクティブシェフ原太亮がお届けする至高の一皿を、是非ご賞味下さい。

Restaurant Bordeaux’s executive chef Taisuke Hara proposes you an original concept presenting traditional Japanese dishes cooked with a French touch, using the best fresh products of Hokkaido. The combination of French and Japanese food offers many possibilities to create new delicious tastes.

Discover them at Mercure Sapporo.

札幌のビジネス・観光の拠点であり多くのレストラン・バーに囲まれる「ススキノ」の中心に立地。すすきの駅徒歩2分に位置し、時計台、テレビ塔、スキーリゾートなどにも抜群のアクセス。全285室の客室は高速インターネットを完備（無料）。フレンチレストランと宴会場も兼ね揃えたメルキュールホテル札幌はビジネスにもレジャーにも最適です。 The Mercure Hotel Sapporo enjoys a location in the popular entertainment district of Susukino, renowned for its many bars and restaurants. Offering easy access to the Sapporo ski resorts and attractions such as the Clock Tower and Sapporo TV Tower. Featuring 285 rooms equipped with complimentary Internet access, plus a French restaurant and conferencing facilities, the Mercure Hotel Sapporo is ideal for both business and leisure.

メルキュールホテル札幌

MERCURE HOTEL SAPPORO

〒 064 0804 北海道札幌市中央区南4条西2丁目 2-4 Minami 4-jo Nishi 2-chome Chuo-ku, Sapporo 064-0804 TEL: 011-513-1100 FAX: 011-513-7575 Email: H7023-RE1@accor.com www.mercuresapporo.jp

VECTOR FREEBIES FROM

http://www.gomedia.us/arsenal

Sapporo Source Magazine would not exist without the generosity and support of our sponsors: Editor: Richard Hopkins Associate Editor: Hiromi Takeda Design: Patrick Nesbitt (43north.jp) Photo Editors: Julian Krakowiak (nandemofoto.com), Zenta Kashimoto (kashimotozenta.com) Translation and Interpreting: Saori Ariizumi Contributors: Arudou Debito, Bradley Callaghan, Yuri Morikoshi, Hideyuki Aoyama Business Development: Manami Goto Sapporo Source is a great way to advertise to tourists, foreign residents, business travelers and anyone visiting Sapporo. If you are interested in advertising in Sapporo Source we have very competitive advertising rates starting at just ¥10,000. To discuss your advertising requirements, please contact us by email at: sales@sapporosource.com

Contents Sapporo Sauce 4 Sapporo Snow Festival 2010 6 Ski & Snowboard Guide 10 Sapporo Sweets 30 Valentine’s 34

Chef’s Corner 36 Restaurant Revews 40 Debito 44 Downtown Map & Guide 46

Editor’s Note A few weeks ago, I returned to my native England, only to find that it was closed. A few inches of snow had fallen and temperatures had dropped into the minuses. Schools were shut down, as were many offices; shops had run out of milk and vital supplies; drivers were abandoning their cars at the sides of roads; and even the ultra-modern Eurostar trains were getting stuck

deep under the sea in the Channel Tunnel due to a technical problem related to the cold. As I sat peering out of the window, contemplating whether to brave the ankle deep powder outside my family home, it made me appreciate just what an amazing achievement it is to run a city the size of Sapporo in the harsh northern climate of we have here. With the many metres of white stuff that fall here every winter, the city authorities and more importantly local residents just get on with life and take the necessary measures. Of course we’re used to it and the UK isn’t. Sapporo has the infrastructure in place to cope with the seasonal

weather. Regardless, it’s a remarkable thing to take conditions that are devastating to the smooth functioning of one small European country and turn them into something that is actually a positive benefit to our lives and local culture. This month’s edition is proof positive of that. Enjoy the magazine.

数週間前、母国に里帰りした私を待っていたのは、

自分はといえば、実家の窓から外を眺め、くるぶしの

もちろん、札幌は雪に慣れているがイギリスはそう

休業状態のイギリスだった。数インチもの雪が降

高さまで積もった雪の中を歩く勇気があるかどうか

ではないし、札幌には各季節の気候に対応するイン

り、気温は零下。学校はもちろん、多くの会社までが

思案しぐねていた。思えば札幌は、極寒の北国の気

フラがある。とはいってもやはり、ヨーローッパ小国

閉鎖され、店は牛乳や生活必需品を切らし、運転者

候の中で、大都市としてきちんと機能している。驚く

の機能を止めるほどの威力を持つ壊滅的状況を受

は道端に車を置き去りにした。超最新式のユーロス

べき功績だと、感謝せずにはいられない。毎冬、雪

け入れ、それをむしろ、地域の人々や地元の文化にと

ター・トレインでさえが、寒波による技術上の問題

が何メートルも降り積もる中、行政の努力に加え、

ってのプラスの恩恵に変えてしまうのは画期的なこ

で、ドーバー海峡下の海底トンネル内で閉じ込められ

最も重要なのは一般市民たちが粛々と、必要な対策

とだ。今月号が、その確実な証拠となるだろう。

て立ち往生という有様。

をとって普通に暮らしていることだろう。

Richard M. Hopkins Editor, Sapporo Source richard@sapporosource.com

FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

Sapporo Sauce

A quick look at upcoming events in the city

Toyota Big Air 2010 On Saturday, January 27, the 14th Toyota Big Air competition takes place at Makomanai Sekisuiheim Stadium. This uber-cool event has grown considerably in prestige since its inception and now attracts top snowboarding talent from around the world. Featured riders this year include former X-Games Gold medalist Antti Autti (Finland), pro freestyler Tim Humphreys (USA), last year’s winner and runner-up Eero Ettala and Risto Mattila (Finland) and Japanese Olympian Takaharu Nakai. Dispensing with anything that could be considered boring, the event turns up the action and consists purely of insane “big air” jumps, with the riders charging headlong down a launch ramp of the type normally used by ski jumpers, and doing tricks and turns while airborne, before hopefully landing safely! The whole thing kicks of at 14.00 and draws a big crowd, so get there in good time. Alternatively book in advance at the usual outlets: Ticket Pia (P 815-254), Lawson Ticket (L 19920), e+, CN Play Guide, TOWER RECORDS in Sapporo PIVOT, Murasaki Sports in Sapporo PIVOT and Aeon Sapporo Nishihassamu, 4pla Play Guide, Daimaru Play Guide, HTB, HTB Online Shop. Tickets are 3,000 yen in advance, or 4,000 yen on the day. See http://www.toyotabigair.jp/ for more information.

Fujifilm Photo Salon

Dead Rock Stars Return

If you’re a keen photographer or just like seeing the work of those with a special gift for capturing moments in time, the Fujifilm Photo Salon has a number of interesting exhibitions coming up in February. February 5th- 10th, “Film Paradise” opens, celebrating the warmth of real film in a digital age. February 12-17, “Sapporo Visual Arts Photo Department Graduation Exhibit” – a chance to see some of the work of the next generation of professionals. February 19th – 24th, “SPIRIS - A Story of Australian Vegetation”- a solo exhibition by photographer Masaaki Aihara. The gallery is open from 10.00am – 6.30pm and admission is free.

After a six month absence, Montana Jon, Dirty Bob and co. return with a full schedule of monthly Dead Rock Stars gigs at Sound Crue. The popular event which showcases the best live bands in Sapporo has gained a following amongst both the expat community and the city’s devoted music fans. February’s gig takes place on the 27th with a line-up of four as-yet unannounced bands and free CDs for the first fifty punters through the door (¥1000 advance, ¥1500 day).

http://www.fujifilm.co.jp/photosalon/ sapporo/

SAPPORO SOURCE FEB/MAR 2010

You can also catch the Dead Rock Stars crew and their irreverent mix of local music, studio guests and banter every Monday from 10pm on Sapporo Mura Radio (FM 81.3MHz). http://www.dead-rock-stars.com

Enjoy the best of Hokkaido this winter! Ice Bar at the Cross

About 30 minutes from the center of Sapporo, or just 10 minutes from Jozankei Hot Springs by car! North Safari Sapporo is an interactive zoo where visitors are encouraged to interact with penguins and beavers and experience feeding them. A wide range of snow activities are available from snow mobiles and banana boat riding to reindeer & pony sledging. Whatever your age, there is fun for all the family at North Safari.

The trendy Cross Hotel will be opening their popular Ice Bar again this year for a limited period during Snow Festival (February 5-11). Designed by ice sculptor Yoshihiro Sakai the bar will be serving warming one-coin drinks including hot coffee, hot wine, hot chocolate and even hot cocktails. Located between Odori Park and Sapporo Station, about 1 minute walk from the Clock Tower and International Plaza, make the most of it before it melts!

Ski Jumping

Bus stop “Toyotaki Shogakko Mae” (In front of Toyotaki Elementary School)

Dai2 Chushajo (No2. parking lot)

469-1 Toyotaki, Minami-ku, Sapporo (in front of Jozankei Hot Spring) 011-596-5300 Open: November to April 10.00-17.00

Sapporo Mt. Moiwa Ski Festival Ever wanted to go to a ski slope and do crazy things like slide down it in a giant inflatable tube? Well now's your chance. On Sunday, March 14, Mt. Moiwa holds its annual ski festival with tube sliding, organized snow balling, a "quick juice drinking" contest (whatever that is!) and various other fun activities for all the family. There will also be free ski lessons (limited availability) and historic Meiji era ski demonstrations in vintage gear.

Signboard here

Adults: 1000 yen, Elementary age school children: 400 yen, Free for age 3 and under

To Fujino, Sapporo

Sunshine Fruits Farm Sapporo Fukuro to Kitakitsune no Mori (Owl and Northern Fox Forest)

North Safari Sapporo Shuttle service available between North Safari Sapporo and bus stop

■ 33nd Mizuno Cup Junior SkiJumping Tournament & 34th All Hokkaido Junior Sports Clubs Association Ski-Jumping Tournament (Araiyama Ski-Jump Stadium) Competition date: February 20th (Saturday) - Small & medium hills

■ 81th International Miyasama Ski Games (Miyanomori Ski-Jump Stadium) Competition date: March 6th (Saturday) from 9:30 Normal hill ■ 81th International Miyasama Ski Games (Okurayama Ski-Jump Stadium) Competition date: March 7th (Sunday) from 10:00 Large hill

■ 32st Miyasama Junior SkiJumping Tournament (Araiyama Ski-Jump Stadium) Competition date: February 21th (Sunday) Small & medium hills If you want to see some “even bigger air” (sorry snowboarders) and watch grown men and women throwing themselves 100 meters or more down a steep icy slope, then Sapporo has an active lineup of ski jumping competitions during February and March.

Doro Joho Kan

Ishiyama Dori

To Jozankei

■ 11th Ito Cup Season Final Okurayama Night Ski-Jumping Tournament (Okurayama SkiJump Stadium) Competition date: March 20th (Saturday) from 19:00 - Large hill

■ 81th International Miyasama Ski Games - Nordic Combined (Miyanomori Ski-Jump Stadium) Competition date: March 5th (Friday) from 12:00- Normal hill

Getting to and from the airport just got easier ホテルから空港まで

Any Hotel in Sapporo to or from New Chitose Airport

札幌のホテル ➔ 新千歳空港

up to 5 people

¥13,000

up to 9 people

¥18,000

up to 21 people

¥25,000

www.skybus.co.jp Tel: 011-788-4994 Email: info@skybus.co.jp

FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

DEPARTMENT

A Brief Guide to the

Sapporo Snow Festival with everything you need to make the most of the city’s biggest annual event Welcome to the Sapporo Snow Festival, one of the world’s largest winter events with over two million visitors every year. We hope that our English language guide will help you to get around a more easily, and learn a little about the history and organization of this fantastic spectacle.

Creating the Snow Sculptures Making snow sculptures might seem like a relatively straightforward process. Just gather up a mound of snow in the park and shape it into something pretty. Rather like a big snowman. In fact, the process of creating the huge monuments is considerably more complicated than you may think.

Snow Festival History 1935 The first documented snow sculptures in Hokkaido are made by the children of Otaru Kita Temiya Shogakko (an elementary school in Otaru). Winter festivals are held regularly until World War 2 forces festivities to be curtailed.

SAPPORO SOURCE FEB/MAR 2010

1950 Sapporo City and the Tourism Association organize the first official Snow Festival. 6 snow sculptures are created in Odori Park by local junior high and high school students.

Preparation starts in autumn of the previous year when discussion and research is undertaken to determine what subjects will be carved from snow for the upcoming festival. A precise model is then made using wood or clay and presented to the festival committee members at the end of December.

1953 Students from Hokkaido Sapporo Technical High School create a 15 meter high statue more than doubling the previous stipulation of building statues no higher than 7 meters. The sculpture, named “Shoten” consists of an arch made of snow, with a statue depicting The Ascension atop it. 1954 Local citizens join the students in creating sculptures.

DEPARTMENT

Snow Festival Fact

Susukino Ice Festival Just a short walk from the main site at Odori Park, in the heart of the nightlife district of Susukino, an entirely different form of sculpting takes place. Some of Japan’s finest ice artists display their work, created using chainsaws, axes, chisels and pocketknives. Literally dozens of sculptures ranging from just a few centimeters to several meters high line the center of the street, which is closed to traffic during the festival.

The snow used to create the sculptures needs to be pure white and uncontaminated from downtown grit and grime, so it is brought in from sites around the city suburbs, parks and Ishikari Bay. If snowfall is particularly low, higher altitude snow is brought down from the nearby mountainous area of Nakayama Toge. Snow is transported to Odori Park in military trucks. The amount of snow required for a single festival is tremendous. In total, an estimated 6,000 truckloads each weighing five tons are required, meaning that 30,000 tons of snow

1955 The Self Defense Force (Japanese military) are involved for the first time in creating snow sculptures. This is also the last year that high school students are heavily involved in making the sculptures due to their schools’ reluctance to release their students during the busy university entrance exam period.

The original Snow Festival in 1950 included a number of events, never to be repeated. As well as the snow sculptures there was dog racing and square dancing scheduled to occur in Odori Park. However, within 30 minutes of the start of the dancing, so many people had slipped and fallen on the snow and ice that the activity was abandoned. To make matters worse, an outdoor film showing also had to be cancelled when someone fell into the projection equipment, damaging it beyond use.

In keeping with the glamorous and perhaps slightly racy nature of Susukino, the event also plays host to a beauty contest to find the festival’s Queen of the Ice. Best visited at night when the spotlights and neon from the surrounding buildings illuminate the opaque statues in beautiful colors, it’s a great excuse to call into a few bars and enjoy some of the area’s famous hospitality. You don’t even need to go inside, as a number of ice bars constructed entirely out of blocks of the frozen stuff are usually dotted along the road serving up a variety of drinks.

(equivalent to about ten jumbo-jets) is used every year. The trucks run from midJanuary and deliver all the snow required in just a couple of weeks. After bringing snow to the site it is piled up using heavy machinery. Often it is assembled into a huge, squared off blocks although the height and width varies depending on the final dimensions of the sculpture. Scaffolding is erected around the snow and a rough shape is made using both machines and shovels. Neater work and detailing is done with a variety of tools depending on the preferences and styles of the sculptors. Finally

fresh, recently fallen snow is layered carefully over the top to give the cleanest possible appearance. Any particularly intricate or unusual parts of sculptures are often made separately and then fixed to the main body. Due to the hazards of working with such a large quantity of heavy material, areas around the sculptures are closed to the public during the run-up to the festival, but you can watch progress from the paths or roads running parallel to the park. A large snow sculpture takes up to a month to complete and is carefully timed so that the finishing touches are added literally

hours before the event begins. During the festival itself, crews of workers clear fallen snow from the sculptures and repair damage caused by stress fractures or warm weather. When it’s all over, the sculptures are immediately destroyed due to the danger of collapse if left unattended.

1965 The Self Defence Force base at Makomanai becomes an official site in addition to Odori Park. 1959 The 10th holding of the Sapporo Snow Festival - visitors from outside Hokkaido start to visit in larger numbers for the first time.

1972 Sapporo is the host city for the Winter Olympics - the Snow Festival is televised globally leading to increased recognition as a major tourist event for visitors from around Asia and the around the rest of the world. FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

DEPARTMENT Snow Festival Fact Due to the global Oil Crisis, the 1974 Snow Festival was badly affected when not enough gasoline was available to power the trucks that transport the snow to the park. A solution was found, which ironically involved using stacked oil drums to form the main structure of the sculptures. What snow was available was then used to cover the drums and the details were added.

The Competition In its 37th year, the International Snow Sculpture Contest is one of the main events of the Snow Festival with 14 teams representing countries as far afield as Sweden, Mexico, New Zealand and the USA. Shortly before the competition we caught up with USA Team Manager - Charley Scott, from Sapporo’s sister city of Portland, Oregon, to find out a little about taking part in the event.

Sapporo Source: How did you first become involved as a competitor in the International Snow Sculpture Contest?

SS: Of all the sculptures you have worked on, which was your favorite?

Charley Scott: Well actually back then, my friends promised that they would take me skiing if I helped make a snow sculpture in Sapporo. Free skiing! So, I jumped at the opportunity. We built a statue of a bear. We called it a Hokkaido bear, but actually it looked like our North American Grizzly. Our detailing work was good and we won the 2nd place trophy. We then skied about five different places in Hokkaido. It was a great trip. SS: How long have you been competing and what do you think of the event? CS: I first visited the Sapporo Snow Festival in 1987. I was, and am still very impressed with the event. In my opinion it’s the best in the world. SS: What do you enjoy most about competing?

Charley (center) and his team

CS: The thing I enjoy most in participating in the competition is the camaraderie. We have the opportunity to visit and see old friends, some of whom have been competing against us for many years, and of course make many new friends from Japan and around the world.

Snow Festival Fact The poster created for the 1st Snow Festival was so beloved by local people that the design was used again on 7 subsequent occasions.

1974 The “Oil Crisis” means that the city cannot obtain enough fuel to transport snow to the park via trucks, affecting the event.

1981 The Susukino Ice Festival is inaugurated. 1983 The success of the Susukino Ice Festival leads to it becoming an official part of the main Snow Festival.

SAPPORO SOURCE FEB/MAR 2010

CS: Out of the 16 years I’ve been involved, my personal favorite is the first one we did… the bear. SS: Have you ever had any problems with a sculpture? CS: Fortunately we’ve never had our snow sculpture fall down or apart. We have witnessed a couple of sculptures collapsing in the past. Everyone has problems from time to time, but that’s something to work through. It’s just a pleasure to play in the snow and contribute to the Snow Festival. SS: What are you making this year? CS: Our snow sculpture this year is very neat. The title is the "Bowl of Life". The Inscription reads "With the fruit that your hands harvest, turning the fruit into a gift of nature". It’s a bowl filled with wine grapes. SS: Do you have any final messages before the contest begins? CS: We’d like to thank our sponsors: Taiheiyo Cement Corp., Columbia Sportswear and Hood River Distillers. And as a representative of the USA and Sister City Portland, a special thank you to our friends and all the great people of Sapporo, Japan and the world. Without all of these people I’ve mentioned, it would not be possible to contribute to this world-class event. We are so lucky to have the opportunity to be team members in this international and educational cultural exchange process, and finally good luck to all the teams!

1990 Nakajima Park becomes an additional site for the snow festival. 1999 The Snow Festival celebrates its 50th anniversary.

Odori Park Site Map

12-Chome - Civic Square A selection of small and medium snow sculptures crafted by the local citizens of Sapporo and the local region.

Chibi Maruko-chan Chibi Maruko-chan is a family animation drama broadcast on Sundays. This year marks its 20th anniversary. Kitakitsune Snow Slide Fun for all the family

37th International Snow Sculpture Competition The display ground for the international competition featuring sculptures by invited teams from around the world. See if you can spot the winner!

Baekje Royal Palace Baekje was one of the Three Kingdoms of Korea between 18 and 680 B.C. This replica sculpture of its Royal Palace was created in cooperation with Chungcheong, Province of Korea.

Nippon Ham Fighters 6 years ago, professional baseball team Hokkaido Nippon Ham Fighters began their first season in Sapporo. Since then, they have won 3 Pacific League Titles making them one of the most successful teams of the decade.

Wartburg Castle A replica of the German Castle originally built in 1067 and now a UNSECO World Heritage Site. Dresdner Frauenkirche A historic German church destroyed in World War 2 and rebuilt as a sign of reconcilliation.

Seitokai no Ichizon A sculpture featuring characters from a well known Japanese manga (comic) about an all-female student council. Hokkaido Winter Food Park Try a number of famous Hokkaido foods, rest in the tented area or watch events on the stage and big screen.

Iolani Palace A beautul recreation of the famous Hawaiian palace. The only palace in the United States ever to be used by a reigning monarch.

Zoos of the North Highlighting Hokkaido’s twin attactions, Maruyama and Asahikawa Zoos. The sculpture contains a range of popular animals including snow leopards, penguins, polar bears, orang-utans and wolves.

HTB Snowboard Air Park Come and watch an impressive and dynamic performance of snowboard “big air” jumping right here in Odori Park.

Where Dreams Come True With the iconic Cinderella Castle in the background and the S.S. Columbia from Tokyo Disney Sea, join Mickey and Minnie Mouse for a heartwarming experience.

Hokkaido Winter Sports Ice Sculpture Depicts the many winter sports enjoyed in Hokkaido including skiing, snowboarding, ski jumping and ice-hockey. Best seen at night when the ice will be beautifully illuminated by colored lights.

1-Chome Ice Rink A free-to-use, public access ice-rink is created at the foot of Sapporo’s famous TV Tower landmark. Come in the evening for a romantic illuminated experience.

Transport Information We strongly recommend using public transport to get around during the Snow Festival as the increased number of visitors and activity around the festival sites make driving difficult.

Getting to Odori Park Odori Park couldn’t be easier to get to. Odori Station is right in the center of Sapporo and the only stop at the intersection of all three subway lines.

Getting to Susukino Ice Festival Take the Namboku Line (green) to Susukino station. The ice festival is directly out side the main exits. Alternatively take the Toho Line (Blue) to Hosui Susukino and walk 2 blocks west until you reach Ekimaedori, the street hosting the Ice Festival.

Getting to the Tsudome Take the Toho Line to Sakaemachi (the last stop) and exit the station. The Tsudome is about five minutes on foot. Since the area is likely to be busy and signposts are common, simply follow the crowds or the signs to the festival site.

Using the subway If you are not familiar with Japanese, we suggest using one of the touch-screen machines located in subway stations rather than the older style push button vendors. These machines are capable of both displaying and audibly speaking English. Basic tickets can only be purchased for a single journey. There are no return fares. If you are planning a number of subway journeys, purchase a One-Day Card (800 yen) for unlimited travel on the subway within a single day. There is a more expensive One-Day Card available for 1,000 yen, which includes bus travel, but all the festival sites are easily accessible by subway, so we don’t recommend this option unless you have specifically planned a bus trip as part of your journey.

Tsudome Map

If you are planning to stay several days and travel on the subway regularly, a “With You Card” (costing 1000, 3000, 5000 or 10,000 yen) is a prepaid card valued at the amount you paid plus a bonus amount. The lower value cards have a 10% bonus; so for example a 3,000 yen card will provide you with 3,300 yen of travel allowance. The 10,000 yen card gives a 15% bonus (11,500 yen worth of travel allowance).

2005 The Makomanai Base is closed as a venue for the Snow Festival. 2006 Satoland in Higashi Ward acts as a temporary replacement for the Makomanai Site. 2001 The terrorist attacks of 9/11 and subsequent invasion of Iraq leads to the Japanese Self Defence Force cutting back their involvement in the Snow Festival.

In 2007, snowfall in the Sapporo area was unusually infrequent. In fact so little snow fell that the Japanese Self-Defence Force was forced to bring in snow by helicopter from other parts of Hokkaido.

2009 The Tsudome (Community Dome), also in Higashi Ward, takes over from Satoland as the festival’s official second site and provides an expansive new ground for many attractions.

2010 This year there are slightly less sculptures than in the several previous years due to the impact of the global economic crisis on sponsorship. However, the new Tsudome site provides a number of exciting new activities to try out, and is well worth a visit.

FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

SKI & SNOWBOARD GUIDE DEPARTMENT

Ski and Snowboard Guide You can’t say the word “Hokkaido” without thinking of really great snow. Whether you’re a first time visitor, a well seasoned regular or a local resident, we hope our guide will help you to learn a little more about some of the best mountains on the island and what they have to offer. For those of you arriving in February or March, and especially tourists coming for the Snow Festival we’ve taken the unusual step of reprinting a number of resort reports that we originally published back in December so that you don’t miss out on anything. We’d also like to thank all the resorts and ski grounds that helped us to put together this selection. What we can say for sure without any shadow of a doubt, is that right here in Hokkaido we truly have some of the best winter sports facilities anywhere in the world; so no matter where you choose to visit, you won’t be disappointed.

SAPPORO SOURCE FEB/MAR 2010

DEPARTMENT

SKI & SNOWBOARD GUIDE

Ski Resort Overview In order to help you pick a resort, we’ve put together this at-a-glance guide to our twelve featured ski areas. The selections are based on the collective thoughts of our writers, but they’re only our personal opinions. Just because a particular ski ground or resort doesn’t feature in a column, doesn’t necessarily mean it’s “bad choice” for this category. Resort

Good For Beginners

Good for off-piste1

Good for local shops and services

Good for mountainside accommodation

Good for dining

Good for Families

●

● ●

Rusutsu

●

Niseko Grand Hirafu

●

Niseko Village

●

Niseko Annupuri

●

Kamui

●

Teine

●

Kokusai

●

Furano

●

Kiroro Sahoro

●

Mount Racey

●

Good for Nightlife

Good for quiet slopes

● ●

●

● ●

Tomamu

Good for ease of access2

●

● ●

●

1. Parts of Niseko in particular are prone to avalanches and “local rules” apply. If you don’t know the mountain or are inexperienced in off-piste skiing, please take sensible safety precautions or go with an experienced local guide. 2. Includes condition and types of driving routes, proximity to Sapporo City and regularity of public transport. 3. As Teine is technically within Sapporo City limits, it is within easy reach of Sapporo’s nightlife districts

FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

SKI & SNOWBOARD GUIDE DEPARTMENT

Rusutsu Resort With its three mountains, Rusutsu is billed as “Hokkaido’s single largest ski resort”

Course Info Type: Self-contained resort Number of courses: 37 Lifts and gondolas: 18 Mountain peak: 994m (3,261ft) Longest course: 3,500 meters Groomed runs: Yes Off-course skiing: Yes Night skiing: 4.00-9.00pm

Average Temperatures DECEMBER

-4

JANUARY

-6

FEBRUARY

-8

MARCH

-3

Figures are average temperatures at mountain base.

Average Snow Depth DECEMBER

52cm

JANUARY

145cm

FEBRUARY

204cm

MARCH

234cm

Figures based on historic averages for previous years

SAPPORO SOURCE FEB/MAR 2010

Standing alone in the semi-wilderness near the base of the beautiful Mt. Yotei, known locally as the “Mini Fuji” of Hokkaido, Rusutsu is billed as “Hokkaido’s single largest ski resort”, and it’s hard to argue with that. With three mountains served by four gondolas, seven quads, seven pair lifts and 37 well maintained runs totaling over 42 km of skiing, it’s a monster. Surprisingly only dating back as far as 1981, the resort is a lot newer and more recently established than is widely believed but in that time it has grown to accommodate over 700,000 visitors every winter season. The resort has won a number of awards including a coveted “White Oscar” awarded in 2008 by the Great Skiing and Snowboarding Guide (UK) – the first Japanese resort to have achieved this accolade.

Geography and Climate Rusutsu has between 8 to 11 meters of snowfall during each winter season giving it ample depth to run through to the Golden Week holiday. While perhaps the base isn’t quite the deepest in Hokkaido,peaking just shy of 2.5 meters, the snow conditions have consistently been rated amongst the top in the island in numerous surveys, which is what really counts. The three mountains don’t quite break the 1,000 meter mark, but the huge choice of runs from shallow beginner slopes to seriously challenging expert runs make up for the slightly lower peaks. Mount Isola and East Mountain offer sweeping runs with panoramic views, while West Mountain has short, sharp runs with plenty of variation and bumps to burn those legs. There is also plenty of tree riding to be had with consistent powder. Temperatures tend to be slightly higher than the Hokkaido average meaning you can get away with one less layer of clothing, although wind chill can still drop those numbers into the minusteens so make sure sensitive areas are well covered.

DEPARTMENT

SKI & SNOWBOARD GUIDE

Bar Obrist

Accomodation Rusutsu offers a range of ski accommodation. In keeping with most of the other resort-style ski areas the prices can climb fairly high for the luxury end of the scale, but reasonably priced packages can still be had.

Dining & Amenities

The “North Wing” and “South Wing” of the main resort hotel contain contain twin, triple and quad rooms and prices average between about 17,000-22,000 yen per person per night. Sizes are reasonable and all rooms contain Junior Suites start at around 26,200 yen. Both include breakfast, dinner and access to the hot spring baths.

Our top tip would be to try to bag one of the 10 beautifully appointed log houses, which sleep between 6 and 24 people depending on the type. Providing you fill your house to its capacity can result in some great bargains with each person paying little more than 6,000 yen each. Alternatively if you can read Japanese (or know someone who can) watch the local Sapporo press for some great late availability packages, which usually include coach transfer and lift pass. For those wanting to keep in touch online, Internet access is available in the North Wing and Tower, but not in every room, so reservation in advance is required.

The Rusutsu Tower contains all suite luxury loft-style residences and rates start at 22,800 yen per person per night in peak season including breakfast, dinner and access to the hot spring baths.

Access Train & Coach: The train probably isn’t your best option; even the resort’s own travel information doesn’t suggest it. Nearest mainline stations are Kutchan (which is much closer to Niseko than Rusutsu) and Toya, both of which are a fair distance away. Most visitors who don’t drive travel by coach (or Skybus). Coaches leave from Sapporo Station bus terminal and take about 90 minutes to reach the resort. Look for inclusive coach and lift pass packages to get a better price, especially for a day trip. Regular coach services also run between Niseko and Rusutsu for skiers looking for a change of scenery.

In season, Rusutsu has dining covered with a host of restaurants, bars and cafes and tea lounges (we counted 20 in all) with everything on offer from regular hotel-style buffets, to Chinese, Japanese, Pizza, American style fast food and high class European cuisine. As is often the case, take care to check the dress code especially with the high-end establishments, as snowboarding boots might not be the best choice for go-everywhere access. There are a range of convenience stores selling snacks, and the “Olde World Carnival”, the resorts own mini shopping mall, which has a beautiful old fashioned fairground carousel as the centerpiece. For the kids (and the young at heart) there is a game center, a “4D-Cinema” (3D visuals plus moving seats!), and a large pool with a 100-meter “aquacoaster” slide. If you prefer something a little less active, there’s even a comfortable reading room where you can sit in silence and browse a book. Most importantly, since you’ll likely be needing cash it if you stay more than a day or two, there are ATMs available in English (and other languages) that accept most major international cards.

Driving: Driving is recommended over public transportation. The resort is approximately 90 minutes from both New Chitose Airport and downtown Sapporo. Skybus Express Shuttle: Skybus runs a popular scheduled service 5-times-a-day from New Chitose Airport, for 5,000 yen or 9,000 yen return. Private charters are also available from the airport, or from Sapporo. Lift Pass Prices: 1 day ticket: Adult ¥5,100, Junior ¥2,550, Senior ¥4,300. 4-hour ticket: Adult ¥3,800, Junior ¥1,900. Night ticket: Adult: ¥2,000, Junior ¥1,000, Senior ¥1,700 (approx. 10% discount during March).

FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

SKI & SNOWBOARD GUIDE DEPARTMENT

Niseko Grand Hirafu In a relatively short space of time, the ski area and local village have undergone a radical transformation Course Info Type: Ski area and vilage resort Number of courses: 34 Lifts and gondolas: 17 Mountain peak: 1,200m (3,397ft) Longest course: 5,600 meters Groomed runs: Yes Off-course skiing: Yes Night skiing: 4.00-9.00pm (10.00pm holidays)

In the last few years, you could be forgiven for thinking that Grand Hirafu had been declared an international territory of Australia such has been the influx of Aussie investors and avid snow seekers in this part of Niseko. In a relatively short space of time, the ski area and local village have undergone a radical transformation with numerous new apartment buildings, bars, restaurants and a range of other recently established businesses springing up on any available patch of land. The momentum may have slowed a little thanks largely to the global economic downturn and the strength of the yen, but that doesn’t detract from the fact that Grand Hirafu is quite simply one of the finest ski areas on earth with “sick” volumes of powder snow (to use the modern parlance) and over 30 outstanding courses for skiers of all levels. What this all adds up to is perfect snow conditions in the heart of the Hokkaido countryside, but with a plethora of facilities aimed at the English speaking community that should make any visit, be it a one-day trip or a two-week holiday, a refreshingly accessible experience.

Geography and Climate As with the other Niseko resorts, Grand Hirafu benefits from a long snow season starting in November and running through to the Golden Week holiday in May. Temperatures don’t dip much below -10˚C around mountain base level, but can easily go much lower at the summit so facemasks are a good choice if you’re going up top.

Average Temperatures DECEMBER

-8

JANUARY

-10

FEBRUARY

-11

MARCH

-7

Figures are average temperatures at mountain base.

Average Snow Depth DECEMBER

190cm

JANUARY

295cm

FEBRUARY

370cm

MARCH

370cm

Figures based on historic averages for previous years

SAPPORO SOURCE FEB/MAR 2010

Most Difficult MORE DIFFICULT EASIER

DEPARTMENT

SKI & SNOWBOARD GUIDE

Accomodation The Hirafu area has become known recently for the expansion in ski apartments, condos and other rentable self-catering accommodation.

Alpen Ridge Apartments

Sulu Chalets

Local Attractions, Dining and Nightlife Hirafu is the only one of the three main Niseko resorts to have a small town at the base of the slopes, and as such is generally considered the focal point for nightlife and going out. A number of bars and restaurants have sprung up recently to take advantage of the boom in tourism, as well as a variety of older and more established businesses. One of the joys of Hirafu, is that pretty much everywhere is a short walk away, so go for a stroll and see what you can find. Here are a couple of our picks.

Access Train: Despite Niseko’s popularity, public transport is still not quite as convenient as perhaps it could be. From Sapporo: About 2 hours 30 mins, ¥2090. Change at Otaru for the Hakodate line then travel to Kutchan station (nearest to the Niseko resorts). From Kutchan, buses are available for transfer to Niseko. From New Chitose Airport: Travel to Sapporo or Otaru and follow the above instructions. Due to the lack of guaranteed seats, and the necessary transfer at Sapporo or Otaru, train travel is not recommended for first time visitors coming from the airport.

Alpen Ridge Apartments Alpen Ridge first opened for the 2008 winter season and is a good example of the high quality new developments springing up in the Hirafu area. Providing ski in and ski out accommodation, the western style furnishings are of an excellent modern standard and the apartments themselves have access to the slopes right outside the door. About two minutes from the heart of the village, close to the supermarket, bars, restaurants and onsens they’re perfectly situated for both skiing and après-ski. The Alpen Ridge development also incorporates a Ski School, Ski Rental service, personal ski lockers, staffed reception desk and onsite management team. One, two and three bedroom apartments and a selection of larger penthouses are available. Price are surprisingly affordable and start at ¥99,100 per person for a three bed, or ¥125,000 per person for a two bed apartment in high season, for seven nights.

Opening just over a year ago, Paddy McGinty’s Irish Pub is one of the more lively places to drink, popular with visitors and the throng of seasonal workers that inhabit Niseko during the winter. With a decent menu of bar snacks and western style cooking, there’s always something happening, and if you’re a solo traveler or looking to socialize with other skiers or boarders, the relaxed atmosphere makes it a good place to start. J-Sekka, the brainchild of UK-born, Australian turned local-boy-madegood, Shouya P.T. Grigg sits smack

Sulu Chalets These larger accommodations are suitable for extra large families or groups, with an internal interconnecting feature to bring two houses together as one, if required. Each house is spread over three levels with five bedrooms and 3 bathrooms, providing large gas fireplaces, comfortable modern furnishings and fully equipped kitchens with modern appliances. They are located in a popular part of the village, with a short stroll to the nearest shuttle stop and walking distance to the family lift, convenience stores, restaurants and bars. If you have a large enough group, you can hire a five bed house sleeping 12 adults for as little as ¥38,900 per person for seven nights during high season. Contact Ski Japan on +81 (0)136-22-4611 for reservations or see the website at www.skijapan.com

bang in the center of Niseko. The last word in style and elegance, aside from the classy suites where guests can stay in immaculately designed accommodations, the building also contains the Sekka Deli, The Sekka Dining Bar, Restaurant Q and the Maki Sake Lounge cocktail bar. Popular with the well-heeled, and an enviable list of local and international celebrities, it’s not the kind of place you’re likely to find rowdy groups of drunken boarders, but if you’re looking for a quiet evening with elegance on tap, there’s not much to beat it in Hokkaido, let alone Niseko.

Driving: Approximately 2 hours by car. Take highway 230 and follow route 5 to Niseko. Skybus Express Shuttle: Scheduled service from New Chitose Airport: ¥5,000 per person (¥9,000 return) – includes ski and baggage transfer. Private charter door-todoor service - ¥35,000 for up to 5 passengers, charter services for larger parties of up to 28 passengers available. Lift Pass Prices: 1 day pass: Adult ¥4,800, Senior ¥3,700, Junior ¥2,600. 5 hour pass: Adult ¥3,800, Senior ¥2,700, Junior ¥2,000

FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

SKI & SNOWBOARD GUIDE DEPARTMENT

Niseko Village The resort’s new motto “always in season” aims to promote the wealth of sports and adventure activities available throughout the entire year Course Info Type: General Ski Area Number of courses: 27 Lifts and gondolas: 7 Mountain peak: 1,170m (3,608ft) Longest course: 3,600 meters Groomed runs: Yes Off-course skiing: Yes Night skiing: 4.00-9.00pm

Niseko Village is actually the new name for the area that long term residents or frequent visitors to the region may know as Higashiyama. The change of name also reflects a change of attitude and the resort’s new motto “always in season” demonstrates their concerted effort to promote the wealth of sports and adventure activities available in Niseko, not just in winter, but also throughout the entire year (a subject we’ll likely return to in the future). Sitting in the middle of the three main Niseko resorts, the mountainside has a variety of well-planned courses with many having consistent gradients for most of the descent, but they are slightly narrower and perhaps a little more challenging than Annupuri to the west, suiting intermediate skiers. With two large hotels right in the middle of the action, including the beautiful new Hilton Niseko Village, the resort is possibly the best equipped of the Niseko resorts to offer a full range of luxury-level dining and pampering without ever having to step outside.

Geography and Climate Official figures suggest that Niseko Village doesn’t suffer the extreme cold of many other Hokkaido resorts, but still has snowfall in spades, which makes it a very attractive area to ski. Visibility can sometimes be low at the top of the mountain sometimes making it hard to see more than a few meters ahead and conditions can change very quickly. Be prepared to admire the view from the top on your first run and then struggle to see your feet on the next.

Average Temperatures DECEMBER

-8

JANUARY

-8

FEBRUARY

-7

MARCH

-1

Figures are average temperatures at mountain base.

Average Snow Depth DECEMBER

110cm

JANUARY

303cm

FEBRUARY

404cm

MARCH

458cm

Figures based on historic averages for previous years

SAPPORO SOURCE FEB/MAR 2010

Most Difficult MORE DIFFICULT EASIER

DEPARTMENT

SKI & SNOWBOARD GUIDE

Notable Attractions Both the Hilton and Greenleaf boast their own onsens (hot spring baths) with naturally heated thermal waters. Set outside with natural rock surroundings and views of the local scenery, there’s little better way to soothe aching muscles at the end of a long day. For those needing a little more intensive treatment, the Wakka Spa at the Hilton also offers a professional sports massage service as well as a range of beauty and therapeutic treatments.

Dining & Nightlife Many guests choose to take the shuttle bus into nearby Hirafu, where there are a wide range of independent bars and restaurants to choose from. However, the Hilton does provide a number of fine dining restaurants for those not wanting to venture back out in the cold evening. The classy Ezo Pub overlooking the Niseko Village gondolas has a natural stone walled design, serves bar snacks, pizzas and burgers, and also provides karaoke rooms for those wanting to try this particular aspect of Japan’s modern cultural heritage. Sizzling teppanyaki is provided straight from the hot plate at the Ren Japanese Restaurant, and for meat lovers the Melt Grill and Bar provides a range of prime beef cuts and local seafood selections.

Access

Accomodation

Train: Despite Niseko’s popularity, public transport is still not quite as convenient as perhaps it could be. From Sapporo: About 2 hours 30 mins, ¥2090. Change at Otaru for the Hakodate line then travel to Kutchan station (nearest to the Niseko resorts). From Kutchan, buses are available for transfer to Niseko. From New Chitose Airport: Travel to Sapporo or Otaru and follow the above instructions. Due to the lack of guaranteed seats, and the necessary transfer at Sapporo or Otaru, train travel is not recommended for first time visitors coming from the airport.

Niseko Village is a fairly self-contained resort with most of the accommodation being provided by the two main hotels at the base of the mountain.

Driving: Approximately 2 hours by car. Take highway 230 and follow route 5 to Niseko. Skybus Express Shuttle: Scheduled service from New Chitose Airport: ¥5,000 per person (¥9,000 return) – includes ski and baggage transfer. Private charter door-to-door service - ¥35,000 for up to five passengers, charter services for larger parties of up to 28 passengers available. Lift Pass Prices: 1 day pass: Adult ¥4,500, Senior ¥3,600, Junior ¥2,800. 5 hour pass: Adult ¥4,000, Senior ¥3,300, Junior ¥2,200

Hilton Niseko Village The first major international hotel chain to invest in the Niseko region has raised the bar considerably with regard to accommodation in the resort area. Formerly the Higashiyama Prince, the hotel underwent a multi-million dollar refurbishment to provide the kind of full service luxury experience not often encountered in ski hotels. Designed so that every room has sweeping views of the local mountain terrain, prices aren’t quite backpacker friendly, but are competitive given the standard of accommodation offered. A spacious well-appointed twin room during peak season starts at around

¥27,000 based on two people sharing. The hotel is situated literally steps away from the gondolas, offering true ski-in, ski-out facilities. Greenleaf Hotel Perhaps slightly overshadowed by the more upmarket Hilton, the Greenleaf nonetheless offers a decent standard of accommodation slightly more targeted towards Japanese customers than its international rival. With the “mori-no” chairlift right next door, you’ll be able to get up the mountain easily although if you’re heading for the top, it might be a better option to ski the extra few meters down to the Hilton’s gondolas.

FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

SKI & SNOWBOARD GUIDE DEPARTMENT

Niseko Annupuri Course Info Type: General Ski Area Number of courses: 13 Lifts and gondolas: 6 Mountain peak: 1,156m (3,792ft) Longest course: 3,500 meters Groomed runs: Yes Off-course skiing: Yes Night skiing: 4.30-9.00pm

Average Temperatures DECEMBER

-4

JANUARY

-8

FEBRUARY

-8

MARCH

-6

Figures are average temperatures at mountain base.

Average Snow Depth DECEMBER

182cm

JANUARY

297cm

FEBRUARY

385cm

MARCH

423cm

Figures based on historic averages for previous years

Access Travel to Annupuri is similar to that of the other major Niseko resorts. For more information, see the preceding pages.

Of the three main Niseko resorts, Annupuri on the northern edge of the mountain is possibly the least developed with regard to international tourism, but for many visitors this is one of its main attractions. If you’re here to ski, and ski some more, this is the place for you. The mountain is marked by very broad and forgiving courses, there are plenty of easier and intermediate runs to get those legs used to being back on skis again before heading up to the summit. If you’re after a quieter way of life, with the convenience of Hirafu’s bustling community just a shuttle-ride away, Annupuri might be the choice for you.

Geography and Climate Perhaps it’s due to the northern orientation of the mountain, but a number of people have commented that Annupuri seems to get slightly more exposure to the elements, with visibility sometimes being quite low, and a chilly wind blowing into your face. This does have the advantage of bringing with it serious amounts of powder snow – in fact those in the know often claim that this is where the most consistent powder can be found throughout Niseko – but who’s to say?

Accomodation and Local Attractions The base of the mountain is quieter than Hirafu and is dotted with numerous smaller “pension” style lodgings offering bed & breakfast. You won’t find a tremendous amount of nightlife, and some of the restaurants shut up shop rather early in the evening. Nonetheless, there are several substantial hotel developments, the largest of which is the venerable Niseko Northern Resort Annupuri recently renamed and tastefully decorated in a Scandinavian style. Rates start at ¥28,875 for the room (twin based on two people sharing) during high season. Just a couple of minutes walk away is Barbecue House Moku-Moku-Tei where you can enjoy decent yakiniku, a type of cuisine strangely lacking in most ski areas, especially given its popularity with foreign visitors.

Course Map

Lift Pass Prices: 1 day pass: Adult ¥4,800, Senior ¥3,500, Child ¥2,800. 5 hour ticket: Adult ¥3,800, Senior ¥2,800, Child ¥2,300

Most Difficult MORE DIFFICULT EASIER Niseko Northern Resort Annupuri

Barbecue House Moku-Moku-Tei

SAPPORO SOURCE FEB/MAR 2010

Gondola Station

DEPARTMENT

SKI & SNOWBOARD GUIDE

Course Info

Kamui Ski Links Kamui Ski Links opened in 1994 and covers an area of approximately 300 hectares. While not one of the largest resorts, the snow quality is every bit as good as other parts of Hokkaido, and the relatively close proximity to Furano makes it a good choice for a multi-destination tour. The relaxed ride-all-areas policy is particularly popular with powderheads looking to get off the main piste, and the Kamui has garnered a reputation for being a place for “people who know what they want from a ski area”. Asahikawa, Hokkaido’s second city, is just 30 minutes. Due to its relatively small size, many travelers overlook Kamui and only allow for a day during their trip. “We wish we’d stayed longer”, is a common observation.

Type: General ski area Number of courses: 10 Lifts and gondolas: 8 Mountain peak: 751 m (2,463 ft) Longest course: 3,500 meters Groomed runs: Yes Off-course skiing: Yes Night skiing: Weekends only

Average Temperatures

Geography and Climate The area in and around Asahikawa has a reputation for hot summers and harsh winters, and Kamui is certainly on the chilly side, especially in February. Snowfall isn’t as heavy as some other parts of the island, but is consistent and reliable with plenty of dry powder. The mountain profile allows for wide tree-lined courses, and although the peak isn’t particularly high, it still provides a 3500 meter run from top to bottom.

-5

JANUARY

-9

FEBRUARY

-10

MARCH

-5

Figures are average temperatures at mountain base.

Average Snow Depth

Local Attractions While there isn’t much to do in the immediate vicinity of the mountain, nearby Asahikawa is likely to be the main base when visiting the ski grounds. With a good range of hotels, shops and nightlife, the city provides everything you need for a comfortable trip. It would be rude of us to mention the nightlife without mentioning The Den, Asahikawa’s finest international bar run by an old friend of Sapporo Source – a great venue to meet other travelers, friendly local foreign and Japanese residents, and the occasional thirsty refugee from Sapporo getting up to mischief while away from home (you know who you are!). Find it at 2-3 Jo, 7 Chome, Yoshitake Bldg. 5th floor, Tel: (0166) 27 0999.

DECEMBER

130cm

JANUARY

170cm

FEBRUARY

220cm

MARCH

200cm

Figures based on historic averages for previous years

Access TRAIN AND COACH: Take the Super Kamui express from Sapporo to Fukagawa or Asahikawa (60 minutes and 80 minutes respectively). Then change to the regular bus services serving the ski area. Driving: Take the Douou Expressway exiting at Fukagawa Interchange. The ski grounds are a further 15 minutes from the I.C - total journey time 90 minutes. Skybus Express Shuttle: Skybus private hire services operate to Kamui at a cost of 40,000 for 5 people. Rates for larger groups are available. Lift Pass Prices: 1 day ticket: Adult ¥4,200, Junior ¥3,000 (500 yen discount after 11am). Half day ticket: Adult ¥3,800, Junior ¥2,300 (choice of 8.30am-1pm or 12pm-5pm). Night ticket: Adult: ¥1,500, Junior ¥1,000

FEB/MAR2009 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE DECEMBER

SKI & SNOWBOARD GUIDE DEPARTMENT

Sapporo Kokusai Course Info Type: General Ski Area Number of courses: 7 Lifts and gondolas: 5 Mountain peak: 1,110m (3,608ft) Longest course: 3,600 meters Groomed runs: Yes Off-course skiing: Yes Night skiing: 4.00-9.00pm

Average Temperatures DECEMBER

-8

JANUARY

-11

FEBRUARY

-13

MARCH

-8

Figures are average temperatures at mountain base.

Average Snow Depth DECEMBER

103cm

JANUARY

300cm

FEBRUARY

399cm

MARCH

438cm

Only an hour away from central Sapporo, Kokusai is another conveniently located ski area (perhaps easiest to get to after Teine) and has a fairly limited but attractive range of broad slopes. Speedy “sky cabin” gondolas go to the peak, which is a bonus for those who regularly shiver on blustery high altitude open-air lifts. Kokusai isn’t the biggest of mountains with only seven main courses, and perhaps lacks the challenge of some of the steeper slopes elsewhere, but makes up for this by being a really solid choice for families and those who haven’t quite found their snow legs yet. Beginners will appreciate that they too can go right to the top and follow a sweeping trail all the way down, rather than being restricted to the lower slopes as often happens with bigger resorts. In 2007, to celebrate 30 years in business, the owners built a new café at the summit known as “The Cuckoo” so you can get a warming drink and enjoy the views of Otaru City before pushing off for another gliding run.

Geography and Climate With prodigious snowfall to the rival the best Hokkaido has to offer, Kokusai is reliable for most of the season although wait for the New Year if you want the best snow. Temperatures are a little cold for the region but not uncomfortable. The shallow slopes of the mountain combined with the high powder levels can cause some courses to run a little slowly, so maintain good speed to ensure you cruise all the way to the base and don’t need to practice your cross-country technique.

Local Attractions Kokusai is positioned between two major local tourist destinations. Otaru to the north is one of Hokkaido’s most historic cities and the former capital city of the island before Sapporo was designated that status. Jozankei to the south-east is famous for its onsens (hot spring baths) and has numerous hotels and places to bathe and soothe aching muscles.

Figures based on historic averages for previous years

Access Train: Not directly accessible by train. Driving: From Sapporo, take route 230 to Jozankei (approximately 35 minutes), then follow signs to Kokusai ski resort (about another 20-25 minutes). Skybus Express Shuttle: Private charter door-to-door service including luggage and ski equipment from Sapporo or New Chitose Airport. 25,000 yen for up to 5 passengers, larger parties of up to 28 passengers available. Lift Pass Prices: 1 day pass: Adult ¥4,800, Senior ¥3,800, Junior ¥3,000

20 SAPPORO SOURCE FEB/MAR 2010

Course Map

Most Difficult MORE DIFFICULT EASIER

DEPARTMENT

SKI & SNOWBOARD GUIDE

Sapporo Teine

Course Info

For Sapporo residents, Teine is the most conveniently situated of all the major Hokkaido ski areas, given that it sits within one of the cities main wards. It’s probably best known amongst Japanese for playing host to the skiing competition in the 1972 Sapporo Winter Olympics –the first the time the event was held in Asia. Split into two zones, the lower slopes, dubbed “Olympia” have a wide range of courses from beginner to a particularly challenging slalom, and also host night skiing. The upper slopes, “Highlands”, have generally longer courses, deeper snow and a beautiful view of both Sapporo City and Ishikari Bay.

Type: Dual lower and upper ski areas Number of courses: 13 Lifts and gondolas: 14 Mountain peak: 1,000 m (4,065 ft) Longest course: 6,000 meters Groomed runs: Yes Off-course skiing: Yes Night skiing: 4.00-9.00pm (10.00pm holidays)

Geography and Climate Perhaps due to its proximity to the city, Teine doesn’t get as chilly as some of the other resorts, with average lows during the coldest months (January and February) reaching -7˚C. As with any mountainous area, occasional cold snaps can cause this to plummet considerably though, so be prepared. As would be expected due to the additional altitude, the upper slopes (Highlands) have more snowfall and thus a longer season, opening in late November compared to early December for further down the mountain.

Average Temperatures DECEMBER

-6

JANUARY

-7

FEBRUARY

-7

MARCH

-4

Figures are average temperatures at mountain base.

Access Train: From Sapporo Station: take JR Hakodate Line, about 10 minutes, ¥260 then bus to ski area. From New Chitose Airport: Airport service to Teine, 42 minutes, ¥1040. Or travel to Sapporo and change. JR also sell a package including train and bus transfer, ski hire and 1 day lift pass. Enquire at the station information office for more information.

Driving: Within the Sapporo city limits. From Teine-ku follow directional signs to the ski area. Skybus Express Shuttle: From New Chitose Airport: Private charter door-to-door service including luggage and ski equipment,100 minutes, ¥25,000 for up to 5 passengers. Larger group rates available. Lift Pass Prices: 1 day ticket: Adult ¥4,800, Senior ¥3,800, Junior ¥3,600. 4 hour ticket: Adult ¥3,600, Senior ¥2,800, Junior ¥2,000

Average Snow Depth DECEMBER

103cm

JANUARY

300cm

FEBRUARY

399cm

MARCH

438cm

Figures based on historic averages for previous years

Accomodation Given that Teine is part of Sapporo City, accommodation really shouldn’t be much of a problem. However, we’ve picked out a couple of our favorites lodging to give a range options for travelers new to the area. Sapporo International Youth Hostel If cheap is your way, it doesn’t get much more affordable than this. ¥3,200 will get you a no frills dorm room with shared bathroom. Reservations: +81-(0)11-825-3120.

ski center

most difficult more difficult easier gondola 4-person 2-person For highland zone take express lift from mountain base or drive to car park.

The Mercure Sapporo Sapporo’s newest and finest international hotel, the Mercure opened a matter of months ago, and is immaculately designed by renowned French interior guru Isabelle Miaja. With French style and cuisine on offer, and a location right in the nightlife hub of the city room prices are stunningly affordable starting at a shade over ¥8,000 per room if you choose the lowest rate. Reservations: +81-(0)11-513-1100. www.mercuresapporo.jp

car parking

FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

SKI & SNOWBOARD GUIDE DEPARTMENT

Furano

Furano is the envy of many ski resorts in Hokkaido, in that it is as popular as a summer destination as it is a winter one. The region’s famous fields of lavender and other colorful flowers draw tens of thousands of visitors every year. Until fairly recently, the ski resort itself was probably something of a well kept secret for foreign visitors, but that has changed a lot, and the city’s efforts to attract more overseas visitors have paid dividends.

Course Info Type: Resort and town Number of courses: 23 Lifts and gondolas: 11 Mountain peak: 1,209m (3,261ft) Longest course: 4,000 meters Groomed runs: Yes Off-course skiing: Yes Night skiing: 5.00-9.00pm

Average Temperatures DECEMBER

-6

JANUARY

-7

FEBRUARY

-7

MARCH

-1

Figures are average temperatures at mountain base.

Average Snow Depth DECEMBER

130cm

JANUARY

190cm

FEBRUARY

230cm

MARCH

140cm

Figures based on historic averages for previous years

22 SAPPORO SOURCE FEB/MAR 2010

As a resort, Furano pretty much has it all. As one of the few major resorts outside Sapporo to be attached to a significantly sized city, the local infrastructure is well established. With over 100 local bars and restaurants either close to the slopes, or in the downtown area, a mainline JR station, good road links and a local population used to hosting visitors all-year-round, it could teach other resorts a few tricks. The skiing is first class, with well groomed runs and some spectacular views across the city to the surrounding mountain ranges can be had from the 1200 meter peak – one of the highest slopes in Hokkaido. If we had to find any fault at all, it would be that there isn’t a lot of off-course skiing, and ski patrol likes to keep you within the piste boundaries, which means the resort is probably not the best place for you if you’re an avid tree dodger.

Geography and Climate Geographically at the center of Hokkaido, Furano is known as the islands “bellybutton” city. The inland climate ensures regular dumps of some of Japan’s driest and lightest powder. Snow depth isn’t quite as high as some other resorts, but the quality is reliably good and the mountain is well shaped to offer steeper runs near the peak, and gentle cruisey slopes closer to the base.

DEPARTMENT

SKI & SNOWBOARD GUIDE

Accomodation Furano has a mixture of large hotels and small pensions (B&Bs) to suit all budgets. At the upper end is the newly renovated Furano Prince Hotel, which although it sounds expensive has some very reasonable rates starting at around 8,000 yen per person for 2 sharing a twin room. Expect to pay a little more though unless you book very early. In the mid-range, the Hotel Edel Warme is well situated about 8-10 minutes from the slopes, although if even that sounds like too much, the hotel lays on regular shuttles for those carrying skis and boards. The rooms are slightly smaller and a little older than the Prince, but are clean and perfectly comfortable. Prices start from around 5,250 yen per

Dining & Amenities Dining out in Furano is a treat. There’s probably no other resort with so many quality restaurants and bars within walking distance of the slopes. Several of our favorites included “Bakushu”, an immaculately clean and cosy little restaurant about ten minutes walk from the slopes, serving up pasta and traditional pizza from a clay oven; “Kitadokei”, a large, beautifully constructed log house serving up a variety of café food; and

person (and our editor has stayed there twice, so it can’t be at all bad!) We’d also recommend getting onto the ’net and looking up some of the small cottages and cabins available in the area. If you have a decent sized group, “Cottage North Hill Sasaki”, a fully furnished, well maintained 8-person sleeper, 3 minutes from the slopes, will set you back no more than 35,000 yen total, per night during peak snow season. In most cases, due to the popularity of the resort during the summer, prices are actually lower between December - March – Furano hoteliers actually consider winter to be the off-season!

the humorously titled “Soh’s bar – for miserable smokers”, a locally famous stone cabin where skiers sick of healthy living can congregate to fill their lungs with something other than the fresh mountain air and enjoy a few drinks. In fact, there are so many consistently good places to eat, our best advice is to grab one of the readily available English language maps from your hotel or accommodation, go for a stroll and see what you can find. You’ll be glad you did.

Access TRAIN AND COACH: From Sapporo, the Super Kamui express will take you to Takikawa at which point it’s quick change onto the Nemuro line for Furano Station. Total journey time is a shade under two hours and costs 4,320 yen. Driving: From Sapporo, take the Doo Expressway, exiting at Takikawa (approximate distance 80km, 2,250 yen toll) and then follow Route 38 to Furano. Journey time varies depending on snow conditions but allow at least three hours. From New Chitose Airport take route 36 to the New Chitose interchange and then follow the expressway as per Sapporo instructions. Skybus Express Shuttle: Skybus private hire services operate to Furano at a cost of 40,000 for five people. Rates for larger groups are available. Lift Pass Prices: 1 day ticket: Adult ¥4,200, Junior ¥3,000 (500 yen discount after 11am). Half day ticket: Adult ¥3,800, Junior ¥2,300 (choice of 8.30am-1pm or 12pm-5pm). Night ticket: Adult: ¥1,500, Junior ¥1,000.

FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

SKI & SNOWBOARD GUIDE DEPARTMENT

Tomamu Upmarket Tomamu is considered to be one of the top resorts in Hokkaido and is known for both its snow quality and bitter cold

The low temperatures in the area give the powder a fine, silky quality for very smooth runs without clogging. Besides the main courses there is a substantial “free area” where the adventurous can freely ski off-course on the non-compressed natural snow, while still being within safe reach of snow patrol (pre-registration required). The resort also boasts “the largest family ski area in Japan” known as Adventure Mountain – an area specifically designed for skiers of all ages to ski together. Surrounded by a large coniferous forest, Tomamu is a self-contained resort with all facilities and accommodation contained within a single main site.

Geography and Climate

Course Info Type: Self-contained resort Number of courses: 17 Lifts and gondolas: 11 Mountain peak: 1,239m (4,065ft) Longest course: 4,500 meters Groomed runs: Yes Off-course skiing: Yes Night skiing: 4.00-7.00pm

Average Temperatures DECEMBER

-7

JANUARY

-10

FEBRUARY

-12

MARCH

-4

Figures are average temperatures at mountain base.

Average Snow Depth DECEMBER

90cm

JANUARY

125cm

FEBRUARY

170cm

MARCH

155cm

Figures based on historic averages for previous years

24 SAPPORO SOURCE FEB/MAR 2010

First opening in 1983, Tomamu is renowned as one of the Hokkaido’s coldest ski areas with temperatures dropping as low as -38˚C during the coldest time of year (late Jan-early Feb). The average winter temperature is around -10˚C. Diamond Dust hangs in the air and sun pillars (vertical shafts of light caused by sunlight reflecting from falling ice crystals) can be observed at certain times. At a shade over 4,000 feet Tomamu Mountain is one of the higher peaks among Hokkaido’s main ski areas with the steepest slopes being near the summit.

DEPARTMENT

SKI & SNOWBOARD GUIDE

Accomodation Several resort hotels dominate the skyline. Due to the nature of Tomamu as a self-contained resort area, there is little in the way of smaller hotels aside from the main accommodations.

The Tower Actually a pair of 36-storey towers. Contains 777 twin rooms starting at a reasonable ¥8,600 per person for 3 sharing to ¥15,200 for single occupancy. The hotel sits right next to the chairlifts and is well equipped. Wireless internet access is available in the lobby area.

Villa Sport A more standard style lodge type hotel with 308 spacious twin rooms. Prices start at ¥13,800 per person for 3 sharing, rising to ¥21,000 for single occupancy. Aimed at families, there are toys in every room, and the hotel is located near to the Viz Spa House and pool.

Access Train: JR Sekisho Line (Express trains running at least once per hour between 7am-9pm): From Sapporo, 82 minutes, ¥4990 (reserved seat). From New Chitose Airport, 58 minutes, ¥3,850 (reserved seat) Driving: Approx 2 hours 20 minutes from Sapporo or 2 hours from New Chitose Airport.

Galleria Suite Tower This second pair of 32-floor towers are very much at the high end of what Hokkaido ski hotels have to offer. Containing only suites, with 100-120 square meters per room, and only 4 rooms per floor, the Galleria has a private sauna and Jacuzzi in every bathroom, and is aimed at the well-heeled traveler looking for luxury beyond the norm. Prices start at ¥25,300 per night per person for 3-4 sharing and top out at ¥35,800 for one person in a room.

The Ice Hotel Part of the “Ice Village” and only available to guests staying at one of the main resort hotels, you can if you wish spend a night at the Ice Hotel (¥20,000 per person) where, as the name suggests, literally everything including the walls, chairs and even the beds are carved from ice. Reservations need to be made 3 days in advance, and if you give up and simply get too cold, you can always return to the heated accommodation for a few hours to thaw out.

Skybus Express Shuttle: From New Chitose Airport and Sapporo: Private charter door-todoor service including luggage and ski equipment, 2 hours 10 minutes, ¥40,000 for up to 5 passengers. Larger group rates available. Lift Pass Prices: 1 day ticket: Adult ¥4,800, Senior ¥3,800, Junior ¥3,000. 4 hour ticket: Adult ¥3,500, Senior ¥3,000, Junior ¥2,800Night ticket: Adult ¥1,800, Junior ¥1,000

Notable Attractions For visitors who don’t ski, or those wanting a break from the slopes, the Viz Spa House near the center of the resort is home to the largest wave pool in the Japan. To relieve the aches and pains from the day’s exertions Kirin no Yu offers a large outdoor bath with views of the surrounding mountains. If the idea of spending all night the Ice Hotel sounds a bit much, there is also an Ice Bar where even the glasses are made from… you guessed it.

Dining & Nightlife The three main hotels all have their own style of restaurant, with the Galleria’s “Platinum” offering classy French and Italian cuisine, or an American style buffet for breakfast. The Tower has an all-buffet restaurant “Nininpuri” with themed areas for local Hokkaido produce, a family area with burgers and children’s favorites and an all-you-can eat dessert area, which will have you putting in an extra half hour on the slopes the next day to work off the calories. The Villa Sport has its own Izakaya, “Aprico”, for a more relaxed place to hang out and down a few beers, and there is one more restaurant on site, “Mikaku” which offers an entirely traditional Japanese menu.

FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

SKI & SNOWBOARD GUIDE DEPARTMENT

Mount Racey, Yubari

Course Info Type: General ski area Number of courses: 18 Lifts and gondolas: 5 Mountain peak: 702m (1,990ft) Longest course: 4,000 meters Groomed runs: Yes Night skiing: 4.00-8.00pm

Average Temperatures DECEMBER

-5

JANUARY

-9

FEBRUARY

-9

MARCH

-3

Figures are average temperatures at mountain base.

Average Snow Depth

Figures based on historic averages for previous years

Mount Racey has undergone a number of name changes in its history, opening in 1972 as “Lacey International”, then changing in 1988 to “Yubari Pine Valley” before finally settling on its present moniker in 2002. Already popular with daytrippers from Sapporo due to its relatively easy access from the city, the resort tends to be a lot busier at weekends and quiet on weekdays. In recent years it has made increased efforts to attract international visitors, which we felt was reason enough to include it as one of the 12 picks in our guide.

Geography and Climate If we wanted to be mean, we could perhaps suggest that at a shade under 2,000 feet, Mount Racey could be considered a large hill rather than a mountain. But, as they say, “size isn’t everything”. The courses themselves can be described as a “beginner’s paradise”, being wide with smooth, gentle slopes suitable for both absolute firsttimers and low-intermediates. Advanced skiers will find the more challenging courses a good workout to shake free the cobwebs at the beginning of the season, but probably won’t want to stay more than a day or two. Temperatures are average for the region, but perhaps due to the lack of altitude the wind chill at the peak is much less of a factor than some of the bigger mountains. Snow depth is respectable particularly during February and March.

Accomodation Access Train & COACH: Buses are the favored form of transport for access to Mount Racey. Services run from Sapporo Station Bus Terminal 3 times a day and take about 1 hour and 40 minutes. The price per ticket is 1,750 yen. Driving: Take Route 274 out of Sapporo and change to Route 3 shortly before Naganuma, which will take you almost to the door of the hotel. Allow about an hour to 90 minutes for the journey depending on conditions. Skybus Express Shuttle: Skybus private hire services operate to Mount Racey at a cost of 40,000 for 5 people. Rates for larger groups are available. LIFT PASS PRICES: 1 day ticket: Adult ¥4,515, Junior ¥3,465, Child (under 12) ¥2,730. 4 hour ticket: Adult ¥3,885, Junior ¥3,045, Child ¥2,415. Night ticket: Adult: ¥1,890, Junior ¥1,575, Child ¥1,260

26 SAPPORO SOURCE FEB/MAR 2010

Due to its ambitions as an all-year resort, Mount Racey has its own, impressive looking hotel in an unusual “wedge” design, which sits directly at the foot of the slopes and has an attractive outdoor rotemburo (hot bath). The guest rooms are spacious, modern and well equipped and particularly notable for being some of the few we found in any of the major resorts to have in-room wireless Internet access, which earns extra points from us. Prices start from a reasonable 8,550 yen per person which makes an overnight excursion very affordable. The hotel also boasts a number of dining facilities including 3 restaurants, a café and a pub. For a little more indulgence, there are also two salons offering professional massage and oil treatments.

DEPARTMENT

SKI & SNOWBOARD GUIDE

Course Info Type: General ski area Number of courses: 17 Lifts and gondolas: 8 Mountain peak: 1059 m (3,474 ft) Longest course: 3,000 meters Groomed runs: Yes Night skiing: Weekends only

Sahoro Resort Regular readers of Sapporo Source will already be somewhat familiar with Sahoro, which we covered during our report on the excellent local wildlife reserve “Bear Mountain” in our July 2009 issue. But while the native local bears may be in the midst of their winter slumber, Sahoro Resort most certainly doesn’t go to sleep when the temperature drops. With a good selection of long groomers for beginners to intermediates, and non-compressed courses for the more advanced, the slopes offer a range of options for all abilities. About twenty percent of skiers in an average season are from overseas, so they’re well equipped to deal with English speaking customers. Visitors often comment on the peaceful nature of the courses, with fewer skiers than many other resorts, allowing you to glide effortlessly without the need to dodge and weave around everyone else heading downhill. Indeed, once they’ve discovered Sahoro, skiers and boarders alike tend to suddenly become very protective of their secret. wOne visitor we spoke to practically begged us not to write about Sahoro at all. “This place is a hidden diamond,” we were informed. “Don’t go telling everyone about it.” We’re sorry…

Geography and Climate Cold without ever becoming unpleasant, Sahoro has good conditions for much of the winter season. Positioned on the east side of Sahoro-dake the courses have less snow depth than some of the more westerly resorts, but this isn’t an issue due to the very professionally maintained and well-groomed runs. Off-course, the powder doesn’t seem any less deep than other resorts, and there are some good free-riding areas in close proximity to the gondolas which provide a safe area for intermediates to try leaving the main piste for the first time.

Local Attractions Sahoro Resort Hotel boasts both regular guest rooms and a number of innovative alternatives. For a small extra charge, you could opt to purify your body in a “healthy comfort room” with dust free filtered air, organic bathroom products, and linen washed without the use of synthetic detergents; or how about an “aromatherapy room” designed to enhance your relaxation and provide a deep and restful sleep? There is a choice of 3 restaurants: the French-themed ‘Sahoro Garden’ where the food is well presented and reasonably priced for a 5 or 6 course meal with wine. More traditional Japanese cuisine is served at ‘Yukikasa’ and there is also an izakaya-style ‘Tavern Honoka’. All three restaurants specialize in seasonal, locally grown ingredients with the menus frequently changing to reflect moth-by-month availability. For those who need to rest those aching muscles after the days activities, the hotel also boasts a spa with an ionized water bath, rotemburo (open-air bath), Jacuzzi and a spacious sauna.

Average Temperatures DECEMBER

-5

JANUARY

-8

FEBRUARY

-8

MARCH

-4

Figures are average temperatures at mountain base.

Average Snow Depth DECEMBER

110cm

JANUARY

150cm

FEBRUARY

160cm

MARCH

190cm

Figures based on historic averages for previous years

Access TRAIN AND COACH: There is a twice weekly shuttle bus from New Chitose Airport to Sahoro costing 3,150 yen and operating on Sundays and Thursdays. On the train, take the express from Sapporo to Shintoku and change to the free shuttle bus or taxi for the last 15 minutes to the resort itself. Approximate journey time, two hours. Driving: From Sapporo take the Doto Expressway, exiting at Yubari Interchange, then follow signs for Sahoro Resort. Approximate journey time, three hours 15 minutes. Skybus Express Shuttle: Skybus private hire services operate to Sahoro at a cost of 40,000 for 5 people. Rates for larger groups are available. Lift Pass Prices: 1 day ticket: Adult ¥4,830, Junior ¥3,780. Half day ticket: Adult ¥3,990 Junior ¥3,150. Night ticket: Adult: ¥2,415, Junior ¥1,890. One great idea that we’d like to see implemented elsewhere is Sahoro’s cheap “Beginner 4 hour Pass”. Costing over a third less than a regular lift pass, this allows those who don’t yet have the ability to make use of the entire mountain to pay less for access to only the easier slopes.

FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

SKI & SNOWBOARD GUIDE DEPARTMENT

Kiroro Snow World Course Info Type: Self-contained resort Number of courses: 21 Lifts and gondolas: 9 Mountain peak: 1,180m (3,871ft) Longest course: 4,000 meters Groomed runs: Yes Off-course skiing: Yes Night skiing: 4.30-7.00pm

Kiroro is something of an enigma amongst Hokkaido ski resorts. It’s well situated, being only 44 km from downtown Sapporo, has insane snowfall, excellent modern facilities, a long, long season that stretches into May, and yet is much less established as a destination for foreign skiers than the more famous Niseko resorts to the southwest. As a self-contained resort, it is a little tucked away in the countryside and might not be somewhere you’d necessarily head to for a day trip, but if you’re looking to stay for couple of nights (or more) the resort comes into its own with a wealth of onsite facilities including restaurants, shops, hot springs a swimming pool, game center and of course the all-important karaoke to blow off some steam after a hard day on the mountain.

Average Temperatures DECEMBER

-10

JANUARY

-11

FEBRUARY

-13

MARCH

-9

Figures are average temperatures at mountain base.

Average Snow Depth DECEMBER

169cm

JANUARY

332cm

FEBRUARY

435cm

MARCH

457cm

Figures based on historic averages for previous years

Geography and Climate Now in its 18th season since opening, Kiroro is a fairly recently established resort and benefits from the careful planning that goes into creating new purpose built ski areas with a good selection of runs for all abilities. Nestled in southwestern Hokkaido with mountains on all four sides, the location has a reputation for some of the highest snowfall on the island, as the snow depth table will attest. This makes it a reliable spot to try a little late season skiing when other resorts are starting to get a little choppy. At the peak, you can take in sweeping views of the Shakotan Peninsula and the Japan Sea, before heading down through runs lined with locally famous silver birch trees.

28 SAPPORO SOURCE FEB/MAR 2010

DEPARTMENT Access

Accomodation Being a purpose-built resort, only the two major resort hotels are available for visitors. That’s no bad thing however, as they are very well equipped and provide just about everything you need – probably just as well, considering that the nearest major town is Otaru, some 30 minutes drive away. The larger hotel “Piano” with its warm wood fixtures and furniture has spacious guest rooms, and houses nine restaurants and cafes catering to just about every taste, both western and Japanese. The smaller “Mountain Hotel” is equally comfortable, but perhaps lacks some of the dining options of its larger neighbor which is just a short walk away. It does however have an impressive new buffet (see below). Both hotels have open-air hot baths. For the best deal, check out the plans available on the website at www. kiroro.co.jp (English available). Offers include just 6,000 yen per person, per night at the Mountain Hotel, including breakfast, or an all-inclusive room, breakfast, dinner and lift pass deal at the Piano for 11,800 yen; a steal for such a modern, well-featured resort.

Dining & Nightlife Most outlets are located in the Hotel Piano with 9 restaurants to choose from including several Japanese restaurants, a sushi bar, the “Yashuu” charcoal grill and even a branch of popular Ginza Lion for those wanting izakaya-style dining. The Mountain Hotel has less choice but does have a magnificent new buffet serving cooked-to-order Italian-American cuisine at reasonable prices for an all-you-caneat deal.

Train: There are no direct trains to Kiroro due to its mountainous location. From Sapporo take a regular or express (numerous services available throughout the day) to Otaru (35/50 minutes respectively) and then change to the Kiroro bus service for the final 30 minutes. Driving: Driving is recommended over public transportation. The fastest route is via the Sattaru expressway (in Otaru direction) from Sapporo Nishi interchange to Asari interchange, followed by the well-maintained 393, following signs for the resort. Approximate journey time is 2 hours – 2 hours 30 mins depending on snow conditions. Skybus Express Shuttle: From New Chitose Airport and Sapporo: Private charter door-to-door service including luggage and ski equipment, 2 hours 20 minutes. ¥40,000 for up to 5 passengers. Larger group rates available. LIFT PASS PRICES: 1 day ticket: Adult ¥4,700, Junior ¥2,500. 5-hour ticket: Adult ¥3,900, Junior ¥2,500, Night ticket: ¥1,500.

Sapporo’s Favorite International Bar & Grill! Now open from 1pm on Saturdays and Sundays! Lunch menu available Happy Hour 1pm-7pm

FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

SAPPORO SWEETS SPECIAL

Sapporo shows its sweeter side If you’re visiting Sapporo for the first time, you may have already decided on a number of things to do. Perhaps, you’re here for the Snow Festival, the jewel in the city’s calendar, with its huge sculptures lining Odori Park. You might be here for the winter sports, and chose Sapporo as a base to explore the numerous nearby resorts that makes Hokkaido one of the premier destinations in the world for powder snow. If you’re

30 SAPPORO SOURCE FEB/MAR 2010

a serious foodie, no doubt Sapporo’s signature dishes of miso ramen, soup curry and jingisukan figure high on your culinary radar. It’s unlikely though that you came here to eat cake. Read on, however, and you might and you might change your mind, for in a manner that would make Marie Antoinette proud, that’s just what many of Sapporo’s local pâtissiers and master cake makers would like you to do.

SAPPORO SWEETS SPECIAL

The Sapporo Sweets Café Sapporo locals have always had a sweet tooth, but in recent years this has turned into a borderline obsession with more and more cake shops springing up around the city. Indeed, whether its one of the dozens of competing outlets in the grand food halls of the major department stores, or the small boutique shops with their unique style and secret recipes, you’re never more than a stone’s throw from a source of creamy, sugary goodness. At the hub of this cakestravaganza, is the Sapporo Sweets Café, an immaculate white, gleaming temple to delicious desserts. You can find it conveniently situated in Aurora Town, one of

the underground shopping malls leading off from Odori Station. At first glance, the display area at the front of the shop looks almost more like a jeweler’s shop than a café, but those beautiful little culinary creations aren’t Fabergé eggs or Tiffany diamonds, and thankfully they’re more affordable too. Serving up an array of sweets from suppliers all around the city, the café is a showcase for the work of numerous local cake makers, and the selection constantly changes, so there’s no reason not to pay several visits. Be warned though, that it gets pretty busy, especially around lunchtime, so you may need to wait a few minutes to be seated.

■ Sapporo Sweets Café: Sapporo Underground Mall, Aurora Town, Nishi 2 Chome, Chuo-ku, Sapporo. Seats: 37 Open: 10.00 – 20.00 Closed: January 1st and mall inspection days www.sweets-sapporo.com

Produced in Association with Hokkaido District Transport Bureau, Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism

FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

SAPPORO SWEETS SPECIAL

Every year the Sweets Kingdom Association holds a competition to select the very best of the best. Numerous recipes are submitted and subjected to strict inspection. The top award is the prestigious Grand Prix for “Sweet of the Year”. Sapporo Source caught up with four previous Grand Prix winners to find out about the secrets behind their success.

Pikake Born in Hakodate, Ryuji Hirohara has over 20 years working for the upmarket Prince Hotel Group. He arrived in Sapporo two years ago and is in charge of 11 bakery staff working in the pastry and sweets department at the Sapporo Prince. He describes his approach as “back to basics”, remarking that trends come and go, but a focus on simplicity and quality never goes out of fashion. Despite this philosophy, he often adds his own personal touch, or a little twist to his recipes. One of the Pikake’s most popular cakes is a very Japanese inspired Roulé de Charbon with healthy chikutan powder and sesame paste combined into a soft sponge with caramelized walnuts. This is rolled with hojicha (Japanese buckwheat tea) flavored warabimochi at its center. Other choices worth seeking out include the Mont Blanc made with three varieties of chestnut, the Akashiya honey pudding made with local fragrant honey and the Grand Prix winning Strawberry tarte featuring Satohoro strawberries and wild fruits. ■ Pikake: 札幌プリンスホテル札幌市中央区南2条西11丁目 Chuo-ku, South 2 West 11, Nearest Subway: Nishi 11 Chome (Tozai Line) Tel: 011-060-8615 佐藤康彦 (さっぽろスイーツ2006グランプリ) 広原龍志写真 www.princehotels.co.jp/sapporo

Patisserie, Anne Charlotte “Anne Charlotte” is named after the daughter of a friend made while Chef-Owner Shinji Yoshimoto was acquiring his culinary skills in France. After serving an apprenticeship in cake shops in Tottori and Kobe, Yoshimoto went abroad to develop a deeper understanding of the pâtissier’s art. He opened his first shop in Sapporo in 2000 and discovered that the cooler and less humid climate of Hokkaido is perfect for keeping his puff pastry flaky. He also observes that high quality dairy products and flour are more plentiful on the island. In 2008, his Grand Prix winning “Sapporo Pudding Pie” demonstrated his obsession with perfection and the depth of his inquisitive mind. After meeting a cheese artisan he discovered whey cheese – a substance rich in “friendly” natural lactic acid bacteria and nutrients and wondered how to incorporate this

SAPPORO SOURCE FEB/MAR 2010

into his craft. After some trials with various cheeses, Yoshimoto selected fromage blanc and used it as a key ingredient for his creation. Pudding Pie has an elastic texture like brulee, which is matched with light puff pasty underneath. Unusually for a sweet, he recommends keeping it in a fridge overnight after purchase to allow the natural bacteria to go to work and enhance the flavor. Besides his famous awardwinning creation, his shop has a range of delicious sweets to choose from and an upstairs café in which to enjoy them at your leisure. ■ Patisserie, Anne Charlotte: North 35, West 10, Kita-ku, Sapporo Open: 10.00 – 19.30 Fax: 011-738-8088 www.annecharlotte.co.jp パティスリーアンシャルロット, 住所：〒0010035 札幌市北区北35条西10丁目3-15 営業時間：10:00〜19:30 定休日：不定休オーナーシェフ吉本晋治 (さっぽろスイーツ2008グランプリ)

SAPPORO SWEETS SPECIAL

Jeunesse At only 30 years of age, Kazuya Wakayama already has an impressive résumé having graduated from École Culinaire in Tokyo and has worked for a stellar array of pastry shops both in Japan and abroad, including Mikuni Sapporo, the Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo, Sapporo Prince Hotel, Prince de France and Zuccotto. In December 2009, he opened his own business, Patisserie Jeunesse and now employs four staff. The shop is elegantly laid out with rich dark walls, pale wood furnishings and brushed aluminum cases with large glass displays. The sweets themselves are as well presented as most galleries display their most precious works, and are immediately eye-catching. It is perhaps fitting then that Wakayama’s Grand Prix winning “Sapporo Haskap Fromage” is a work of art. As simple as it is beautiful, a modern masterpiece consisting of a light mousse made with four cheeses, coated flawlessly with smooth haskap (an unusual

fruit of the Blue Honeysuckle, grown locally in Hokkaido) to give a striking deep crimson color. It was deliberately engineered to stand out against a sea of generally white cakes entered for competition and caught the judges’ eyes as well as their palettes. Other standout items include the Dolce Pizza – a sweet take on pizza with a thin crisp base and topped with flaked almonds. But everywhere you look there are interesting little surprises that beg to be tasted. This innovation defines Wakayama’s approach to cake making. “I want my customers to find something new and fresh every time they try my creations”, he says. ■ Patisserie Jeunesse: Fukuzumi 3-10-3, Toyohira-ku Tel: 011-827-0222 Open: 11.00 - 19.00. Closed: Mondays 店名：パティスリージョネス住所：札幌市豊平区福住３条10丁目3-3 営業：午前１１時～午後７時定休：月曜日オーナーシェフ若山一哉 (さっぽろスイーツ 2009グランプリ)

Yakata, Miyanomori Yakata is an old-fashioned, western-style house in Miyanomori with a retro-style café reminiscent of the good times of the Showa Era. A well established cake shop, it was originally founded in the nearby port city of Otaru and is much loved by locals. From colorful short cakes to baked goods and old-style butter cakes, Yakata sources 100% of its ingredients from Hokkaido. Signature sweets include the “Northern Honey Roll” made with wheat flour from Ebetsu and acacia honey from the Sapporo area. A much sought-after taste means customers from across Japan order honey rolls by mail order. Also particularly good, is the fresh crème caramel made with a rich flavor that makes it an affordable luxury. Starting in February 2010, the former Grand Prix winning “Sapporo White Tiramisu” will be remade to coincide with the Snow Festival. ■ Yakata, Miyanomori: North 5, West 25, Chuo-ku, Sapporo Open: 09:00 – 20:00 Closed: 1 January Nearest subway: 5 minutes walk from Nishi 28 Chome (Tozai Line) Email: miyanomori@c-yakata.co.jp Tel: 0120-703-303 (free dial), 011-611-1177 www.c-yakata.co.jp (Japanese) 洋菓子の館宮の森店住所：札幌市中央区北5条西25丁目営業時間：9:00-20:00 定休日：１月１日のみ交通：地下鉄東西線「西28丁目」駅より徒歩5分。駐車場6台分完備坪田修輝 (さっぽろスイーツ2007グランプリ)

FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

DEPARTMENT

Love is in the Air …or …or is is it it just just snowing!? snowing!?

It’s that time of year again, when we think about those unfathomable creatures known as the “opposite sex”. If you’re new to Japan, or just visiting and happen to be here on Valentine’s Day, you might want to pick up some tips on how things are done differently here compared to the customs you’re used to back home. Alternatively if you’re here in March, you may be surprised to learn that the whole thing gets repeated (albeit in a different way) one month later.

Valentine’s Day Valentine’s Day in Japan differs from most other countries in that it is specifically the day when women give gifts to the men they appreciate in their lives. But like many things in Japanese culture, it’s never quite as straightforward as that. In most western countries Valentine gifts are reserved for that special someone for whom the flame of love burns most strongly. Over here, a woman may give chocolates to just about any male she encounters on a regular basis, be it a boss or colleague at work, a teacher, or just a male friend. In this case, the type of chocolate given is referred to as “giri-choko”, which translates roughly as “obligation chocolate”. The second type of chocolate, “honmeichoko” is the one you want to get if you’re hoping for a romantic interest. In the past,

34 SAPPORO SOURCE FEB/MAR 2010

women generally gave their own handmade chocolate as honmei-choko to express their love, but this is a tradition that is slowly dying out.

White Day If you’re a man, you might have been thinking that Valentine’s Day is rather a good deal for you, and you’d be right. Unfortunately although you may have received a lot of gifts in February, this can come back to bite you a month later. “White Day” on March 14th, is a fairly recent tradition in Japan stretching back about 30 years, and it’s the day when you have to return the favor to all the young (or not so young) ladies that showered you with Valentine gifts. There’s a catch however. Tradition has it that you’re supposed to give something back which costs more than the gift given to you, and it’s supposed to be white (hence the name of the day). White chocolate is always a safe bet, although marshmallows are sometimes given, but be warned, this could also lead to a misunderstanding (see our Fun Facts). If you’re really feeling confident, you can even give white lingerie, although it’s probably best to be sure of the lady’s intentions before attempting to hand over such a personal gift.

Fun Facts If a man receives chocolates on Valentine’s Day and suspects a woman has romantic intentions, these can be rebutted by giving marshmallows on White Day, signifying “no thanks” – be careful though, not everyone follows this rule so best to try to find out what a person’s views are first. Some people believe that the cost of the White Day gift given back to a woman should be “sanbai gaeshi”, or literally three times the cost; expensive if you’re a popular pick. Wonder where White Day comes from? You may not be surprised to discover that it was first created in 1978 by the Japanese National Confectionery Industry Association who have…erm… no vested interest whatsoever in selling chocolates. However, other manufacturers were quick to get in on the act producing jewelry, handkerchiefs and other items targeted at romantic consumers. The name “White Day” is part of a phenomenon known as “wasei-eigo”, meaning that despite being an English word, it has no origins outside of Japan. It was probably chosen to give it an exotic sound, and to balance the foreign sounding name “Valentine’s Day”. In Korea, many young people celebrate a further “Black Day” on April 14, when singletons who missed out or were ignored on both Valentine’s and White Day can congregate to drown their sorrows and eat noodles with black bean sauce. This hasn’t caught on yet in Japan, but it’s only a matter of time…

Valentine Gift Guide We asked our good friends and Sapporo’s finest master chocolatiers, Royce’, to give us a few ideas about what to give this year.

Potatochip Chocolate “Fromage Blanc” Hokkaido potatoes are crisped and covered on one side with white chocolate blended with creamy cheese. The balance of saltiness from the chips and sweetness of the chocolate creates a surprising harmony that really works. Original and fun, this is an ideal choice if you’re looking for a quirky or light-hearted White Day present.

Nama Chocolate “Au Lait” With a texture as smooth as silk, this famous chocolate is one of Hokkaido’s signature products. Made with locally produced fresh cream, with a finish of Cherry Marnier liqueur, the fragrance and taste give a lingering, melting experience in the mouth. Classy and elegant, the perfect gift for the man in your life. Nama Chocolate “White” As white as the driven Hokkaido snow. Lashings of cream are blended into the chocolate to give a rich, milky finish. With a similar soft, smooth texture to “Au Lait”, this is a stylish way to return the favor to your favorite women on White Day.

Welcome to Sapporo Nissan. Why not visit us to take our broad lineup for a test drive. Leasing and maintenance also available.

Fruit Bar Chocolate White chocolate blended with dried mango, cranberry and strawberry, almond puff, strawberry powder and banana essence. A really delicious choice, that’s perfect to give at any time. Why wait for a special day?

Contact: Mitsuhiro Ikejima Tel: 011-641-1123 Email: m-ikejima@sapporo-nissan.co.jp Sapporo Nissan Motor 35 Co. Ltd. FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

シェフのコーナー

THIS MONTH Bradley meets master pâtissier Koichi Shiiya Regular Chef’s Corner readers who have been with us from the beginning will remember that I set myself the remit of finding a foreign chef working in Sapporo every month to talk about their experiences. A few weeks ago, the editor informed me that there would be a lot of cakes featured in this month’s Sapporo Source; so in an effort to continue the theme and in a departure from my normal practice, I talked to master pâtissier Koichi Shiiya, one of the most talented and well-known sweet specialists in Hokkaido, who is referred to amongst his Japanese followers as one of Sapporo’s “Three Pastry Musketeers”. Critics and bloggers consistently rank his shop, “Shiiya”, as possibly the best cake shop in

town. Chef Shiiya has extensive experience of working in France and Belgium and his detailed craftsmanship and creativity produce beautiful and elegant sweets that are among the best I’ve tasted in Japan. Chef Shiiya developed his sweet tooth in Nemuro where he was born. After graduating from high school, going to University was never an option for him. “I didn’t like to study that much, and besides I couldn’t imagine what to do after leaving University” he recalls. “I didn’t want to become a salary man. Instead I wanted to find a profession that was rewarding enough that I can be independent and follow my own path.” He started his apprenticeship at a

confectionary store in Sapporo. “My salary was 70,000 yen back then and 40,000 of that went on rent,” he remembers. “They had a very strict apprentice system, and I wasn’t even allowed to touch any cakes for the first few months. It was pretty tough.” Whenever Shiiya met his high school classmates, he felt isolated since everybody else seemed to be having it easy, while he spent a lot of his time being scolded by his superiors and his boss. Not much different to what I remember from my training days back in Australia then! He managed to stick it out for four years before finding a position in pastry shop in Tokyo. It was a completely different working environment. All the terms that the chefs

通常であれば札幌で働く外国人シェフを訪ねるの

椎谷シェフが甘いものに目覚めたのは、彼の故郷

辞めたくなりましたよ」高校時代のクラスメート

だが、今月は趣向を変えて、札幌が誇るカリスマ・

根室での幼い頃から。高校を卒業後、大学に行こう

に会うとみんな楽しく大学生活を送っている中、彼

パティシエの椎谷宏一氏のお話を伺った。椎谷氏

とはまったく思わなかったという。「勉強も嫌いだ

だけは毎日先輩や上司に怒られてばかり。みんな

といえば、その実力、知名度と共に北海道パティシ

ったし、大学に行ったその先にやりたいことが見え

についていけず孤独感を味わったという。確かに、

エ界重鎮の一人だろう。彼のことを「札幌パティシ

なかったからです」と彼は言う。「ただ自分はサラリ

修行とはそんなもの。自分のオーストラリアでの経

エ三銃士」の一人と言う人もいるほどだ。彼の店「

ーマンにはなりたくなかった。それよりは、やれば

験を思い出す！

パティスリー・シイヤ」は、批評家やブロガーたちの

やっただけの充実感を味わえて、将来は自分で独

「札幌で一番おいしいケーキ屋」で常にランク入

立してやっていける職業がいいなと思いました」

りする。椎谷シェフはフランスとベルギーで修行した経験を持つが、その丁寧な職人芸とクリエイティビティに満ち溢れた美しくて洗練されたスイーツは、今までに自分が日本で食べたケーキの中でも一押しだ。

36 SAPPORO SOURCE FEB/MAR 2010

4年間そこで何とか頑張った後、東京のお菓子屋での仕事が見つかり上京する。しかしそこでは、職場

最初の修行は札幌の菓子屋だった。「当時、給料が

の環境がまったく異なった。パティシエたちがキッ

7万円で、そのうち4万円が下宿代でした」彼は今で

チンで使う用語はすべてフランス語。椎谷シェフに

も覚えている。「徒弟制バリバリの職場でしたね。

は単語すら理解できなかった。このとき自分が以前

最初は仕事なんてさせてもらえなかった。半年で

フランス菓子と思って作っていたものは、フランス

菓子ではなかったことに気づく。やがて20台中半に差し掛かった頃、椎谷シェフは自分が本当にやりたいフランス菓子を学ぶためには、本場フランスに行かなければならないと決心する。最初のフランスでの職場はロアンヌにある有名レストラン「トロワグロ」だった。渡仏前にフランス語を勉強して行ったものの、キッチンで他のスタッフが話している言葉はスラングだらけで、ほとんど理解することができなかったそうだ。一年後、彼はベルギーのブリュッセルにある世界的に有名な菓子店「ドゥバイヨル」でのポジションを得た。「（ドゥバイヨル）ではシステムが非常にきっちりとしていて無駄がないんです。(菓子工場では)立派なキッチンがあって20人くらいが働いてました」彼は回想する。やがて札幌に戻った彼はショコラティエ・マサールでシェフとして働き、将来に備えて開店資金も貯める。しかし最終的にそのお金が溜まったとき、もう一度フランスに行きたいと、自分の店を持つ計画

were using in the kitchen were French, and Shiiya couldn’t understand a word. It was at this point he realized that what he’d been making before, and believing was French pasty, wasn’t French at all. By now in his mid 20s, Shiiya decided that if he was really going to master the art he had chosen it was time to head to France. He landed his first job at prestigious French restaurant “Troisgros“ in Roanne. Despite studying French before going abroad, he rarely understood what the other kitchen staffs were saying due to the amount of slang that was flying around. A year later, he got a job in Brussels, Belgium at world famous upscale patisserie “Devailleul”. “The system there was so well organized with a very professional kitchen and a staff of 20,” he recalls. After returning to Sapporo he took a job at a local Chocolatier and began saving money so that he could open his own shop. But, when

he finally had enough cash in the bank, he suddenly had an urge to put his plans on hold and return to France one more time. “I felt like I had lost something”, he says. “I tasted amazing food in France, but the memory of it was starting to fade. And although I had an idea of the type of cakes I wanted to make in my store, I had no idea about many aspects of running my own patisserie”. By this point he was 34 years old, and realized it would be his last chance to work in France. This time he ended up in Normandy, working for a small pastry shop called “Reynald” that only had 5 staff including the owner, and then worked for another establishment, “Imperial”, for another year. After soaking up the local atmosphere for two years he finally decided it was time to return home, and set out on his own. I was interested about what Chef Shiiya felt he gained from studying and working

を延期する衝動に駆られる。「どこか後悔の念があったんですね」と彼は言う。「現地でバターとかおいしいなと思ったのは覚えているんですが、じゃあそれがどんな風に違うのかとか、そういう詳細について何も記憶していないんです。また店をオープンするといっても、自分はケーキを作ることしか考えていなかったので、店の雰囲気作りなどトータルでどういう印象の店にしたいかということを考えてなかったんです」。この時点で椎谷シェフは34歳。フランスで働くとしたら最後のチャンスかもしれないと思ったという。このときは彼が選んだのは「レイナルド」というノルマンディの小さなケーキ屋だった。オーナーを含め5人が働く店で一年間、その後「アンぺリアル」を経て、二年間の滞在を経た後札幌に戻った。今度は自分が店を開く番だ。海外で学んだり働くことで得られることについて、椎谷シェフが話していたことは私にとって興味深

FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

overseas. “You may not have to go abroad to learn skills and technical things for becoming a good pastry chef,” he said. “The culinary level in Tokyo is good and there is a lot of information available in Japan now. However, I still think there are some things you can’t get in Japan whether it’s the approach to work, or trying ingredients that you wouldn’t otherwise find in Hokkaido. But, I think the atmosphere and actual experiences you have count for 70% of the reason why going abroad still is worth it.” Patisserie Shiiya opened its doors in 2002. As if to reinforce the idea that good things come to those who make a little extra effort, it’s a fair 12-15 minutes walk

from the nearest subway, but always seems to have customers in steady supply. I asked Chef Shiiya what makes his cakes different from the competition. “Balance of ingredients when combined”, he said. “For example if I’m making a chocolate cake, I need to ask myself ‘what matches with chocolate?’ Let’s say wild berries… then which should be dominant? What is an ideal balance for them to compliment each other? Balancing is important but then again, if it’s too rigid, it’s no good. Then how about adding rosemary…” You can see even now, he’s considering the idea as he speaks. Innovation and ideas about unique combinations of ingredients sometimes strike him when working in

the kitchen. Such as one day when he was using strawberries while one of his staff was chopping basil, and the fragrances of the two seemed to harmonize perfectly. Unlike many Hokkaido pâtissiers, he isn’t obsessed with local ingredients though. “The most suitable ingredients regardless of whether they’re local or foreign, should be used accordingly”, he states; a good philosophy in my book. ■ Pâtisserie SHIIYA: North 5, West 21, Chuo-ku, Sapporo 札幌市中央区北5条西21丁目1-15 Tel: 011-611-7003 Hours: 10:00 – 20:00 Closed: Wednesdays, 3rd Thursday.

い。「作り方やスキルを学ぶのなら、別に海外に行

ずやってくるという法則を物語るかのように、最寄

心がない。じゃあローズマリーのハーブを入れたら

く必要はないかもしれません」彼はそう言った。「今

の地下鉄駅からは歩いて12－15分という距離にも

どうだろうか、、、」という風に、発想の輪が広がって

やお菓子の技術を学ぶだけなら、東京にいた方が

かかわらず、店の客足は途絶えない。

いく。そして素材同士の組み合わせは、仕事中には

情報量も多いしレベルも高いかもしれません。しかし、やっぱりお菓子の本場であるフランスでしか学べないもの、得られないものがあります。それがここにはない素材だったり雰囲気だったり。そういう経験が海外に行く理由の7割だと思っています」

椎谷シェフにとって、ケーキを創造するプロセスで大事にしているのが「素材同士の組み合わせのバランス」だという。「たとえば、チョコレートを使ったケーキを作るとして、じゃあ何と合わせるか。木苺と合わせよう、じゃあどちらをメインにするか。お互

こうして2002年パティスリー・シイヤはオープンし

いを生かすにはどういうバランスが良いか。バラン

た。努力を惜しまず良いものを提供すれば人は必

スが大事といったって、あまりにキチキチでは遊び

38 SAPPORO SOURCE FEB/MAR 2010

っと思いつくことも多い。例えばキッチンでイチゴを使っているときに、誰かがバジルを刻んでいて、その瞬間、鼻腔でイチゴとバジルの香りが混じったときにこれは合うなと感じたり。「道産素材はもちろんのこと、海外にも素晴らしい素材があります。それぞれに応じて、最良と思う素材を使えばいいのです」彼は明言した。

This month, Chef Shiiya has provided us with a simple recipe for a delicious warming drink – perfect for those cold winter nights.

Chocolat Chaud (Hot Chocolate)

ショコラ・ショー (ホット・チョコレート)

Ingredients:

材料:

40g Chocolate (milk, dark, or white )

40g チョコレート (何でも可)

40g Fresh Cream

40g 生クリーム

80g Milk

80g 牛乳

40g Water

40g 水

Optional:

お好みで:

Vanilla essence, cinnamon stick, nutmeg, etc…

ヴァニラ・エッセンス, シナモン・スティック,

Steps:

手順:

Chop the chocolate finely Turn the stove to a medium-low or low setting. Pour milk, fresh cream and water into the pot and heat. Turn off the stove once the mix shows the first signs of steaming. Gently add the chopped chocolate and let it melt completely. Reheat the mix and gently stir to get a very smooth texture. Switch off just before the boil and serve. You can substitute fresh cream with water (80 g) if you prefer a lighter flavor. You can also put vanilla or cinnamon or nutmeg to add some flavor to it.

ナツメッグ etc…

チョコレートを刻む小さな鍋に、牛乳、生クリーム、水を入れ中火から弱火で温める。湯気が出始めたら火を止める。火からおろした鍋に刻んだチョコレートを入れ、溶かす。完全に溶けたら再度鍋を火にかけて、スムーズになるまで静かに混ぜる。沸騰する直前で火を止めて出来上がり。あっさりさせたかったら、生クリームの代わりに水 80グラムで代用。ヴァニラ、シナモン、ナツメッグなどお好みに応じて入れるとよりフレーバーが深まります。

FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

RESTAURANT REVIEW DEPARTMENT

The Grape Escape

Restaurant Review: The Wine Club It’s 6.00pm on a random Friday at Susukino Station. The area in front of the ticket gates is jam-packed with city workers anxious to start their night’s drinking at a nomikai or after-hours party. The buzz in the air of excited chatter, the smell of perfume from young ladies arm-in-arm with men old enough to be their fathers, and the occasional rush of air as a subway train passes below, makes this a typical night. I take exit number 1 and head towards New Hokusei Building, just across from Susukino Koban -a typical Susukino multiunit hosting numerous restaurants and bars. Entering the elevator, my finger stabs the 9 button, the doors close and the whine of the motor starts up. The doors open

40 SAPPORO SOURCE FEB/MAR 2010

again, I step out, and within 5 seconds I’m in a completely different world. The Wine Club occupies an entire floor. It is a quiet and elegant space, totally secluded and cut off from the throng of nightlife below. Walking through a narrow entrance, the brightly lit open kitchen immediately catches the eye. To the right is the dining area that seats 40 and looks out through large plate glass windows to a magnificent night view of the sleepless downtown area. The stark white walls contrast well with the blaze of neon cutting through the darkness outside. The restaurant itself is divided into three sections -a main dining area with a view, a quiet and relaxing lounge bar with a grand piano, and a secluded private room. If you’re dining with somebody special, insist on a window seat in the main area

to impress. If you’re drinking alone, the tranquil bar counter is perfect for just relaxing with a glass or two and a few items from the tapas menu. Singletons are comfortable here - the friendly bartender knoaws when to attend to your drink or engage you in a conversation, and when to keep a good distance. The private room is excellent for hosting an intimate dinner party. As the name implies the place is serious about wine, but also about sake. The Wine Club has specialist sommeliers, sake sommeliers (kikisake-shi), and bartenders. Noritaka Kudo, the chief sommelier previously worked for New Otani hotel, and is a well-known sake and wine pro among his circle. The restaurant is very particular about its cellar. Regardless of whether they are from France, Japan or elsewhere The

RESTAURANT REVIEW

Wine Club maintains a philosophy that production must be carried out in a natural and sustainable way, with reduced or no chemical additives or processes. If you’re a big fan of bio wines, you’re at the right place. Top quality, rare organic and bio wines are available with over 40 labels on offer. The club also carries over 35 varieties of Junmai-shu-sake made from water and rice only with no alcohol added (most producers of sake in the market use alcohol to help the brewing process). Glasses of both start at around 700 yen while bottles are available from 3000 yen for wine, and 4800 yen for sake. ススキノ交差点の斜め向かい、ニュー北星ビル9階

素材に最も合った料理法で提供することをモット

にあるワインクラブは、ソムリエ、日本酒の利き酒

ーに、道産素材にこわっている。タジン鍋が有名（

師が常時いる洒落た店。9階からのススキノの夜

シェアするのに最適）で、野菜がおいしいバーニ

景が絶景のメインダイニング（44席）に加え、バー

ャ・カウダ、知床産鶏、コラーゲン美肌鍋なども人

ラウンジや個室もある。ワインと日本酒昔ながら

気。店長の工藤規嵩氏は第2回世界利き酒コンク

の減・無農薬農法で栽培された葡萄を用いた「自

ールの北海道代表。

然派ワイン」と、醸造アルコールを添加していない純米酒で、卓越したラインアップを誇る。オーガニックやビオといった自然派ワインのセレクションが豊富。この店のコンセプトは「原点回帰」だが、

■ The Wine Club South 4 West 3 New Hokusei Building 9F. Tel: (011)-241-6208 Open: 5:00pm – 2:00am Public Holidays: 5:00pm – 0:30am Closed: Sundays

Their food focuses on a variety of freshly harvested local produce beautifully presented by resident Chef Ito. Signature dishes include a variety of Tajin pots (in a Moroccan-Japanese fusion style, good for sharing between two), Bagna Càuda, Maitake mushroom steak, and risotto. The Taijin Pots range in price from the excellent value Shiretoko chicken (from 800 yen) to lamb with couscous (1,300 yen) right up to the expensive and exotic Suppon (5,000 yen). The Wine Club provides an elegant setting with excellent locally influenced seasonal cuisine, which when paired with a naturally produced wine or sake provides both a charming and ethical way to spend an evening.

FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

Bite-size reviews DEPARTMENT

Hanamaru Kaiten-zushi Located on the 6th floor of Stellar Place (Daimaru side of Sapporo Station) the 60-seater Hanamaru Kaiten-zushi has been the talk-of-the-town since its opening. Probably the busiest kaiten-zushi (sushi on conveyor belt) restaurant in Hokkaido, if not all Japan, the company is based in Nemuro, a famous fishing town in eastern coastal Hokkaido and directly ships fresh seafood in large quantities to their seven sushi and dining bars around the island. Our advice is to avoid the busy lunch and dinner periods since it is impossible to even get on the waiting list. Go between 3-4 pm, write down your name at the entrance, and wait until it’s called.ture dishes include a variety of Tajin pots Once they shout for you, you’re now allowed to wait inside. Wait a little longer and you’ll be seated. Prepare your green tea cup, soy sauce and you’re good to go. Sushi, rolls, and other food items drift towards you on the conveyor belt on color coded plates ordered by price. Take what you want or write down your order on a small order sheet on the table and give it to your sushi chef. Blue plates such as the most popular salmon nigir are the least expensive at 136 yen, up to the most expensive items like sea urchin, on a purple plate for 420 yen. Over 100 items are available with numerous seasonal specials. Worth the wait, albeit sometimes a long one! ■ Nemuro Hanamaru · Stellar Place 6th (Dining) Floor North 5 West 2 · Tel: (011)209-5330 · Open: 11:00 am - 11:00 pm

Makgeolli Bar Chandan With the current Hanlyu Boom or “Korean wave” still running strongly in Japan, makgeolli bars are becoming the trendy place to eat and drink. The first Makgeolli (pronounced “mac-ko-li”) bar serving the sweet, milky traditional Korean rice wine, from which the bar gets its name, opened its doors in Sapporo in the autumn of 2009. Chandan, meaning “short and long rhythm” in Korean, offers an extensive line of authentic makgeolli with authentic Korean dishes. The owner, Mr. Kuong, a second generation Korean-Japanese ex-banker gets his fresh unpasteurized makgeolli from regional producers in South Korea. And Chandan offers over 80 different authentic labels and 17 makgeolli-based cocktails. Another draw is the truly authentic Korean food. Dishes like beef liver and hormone sautéed with harusame and vegetables, and Korean noodles and toppoki rice cake in spicy sauce are perfect companions for the bars signature drink. With over 30 dishes on the menu, the young Korean chefs will adjust the level of spice to your taste. Chandan has a cozy and homely atmosphere with cushioned sofas and bar counters that accommodate 22 people. On the wall there are screens broadcasting live Korean television and the latest Korean music/cinema magazines on the shelves. ■ Makgeolli Bar Chandan· South 4 West 5-10, No.4 Fujii Building 6th Floor· Tel: 011-242-1269· Open: Mon-Thu 6pm—1am (L.O. 00.45)· Fri & Sat 6pm-2pa (L.O. 01.45) Closed: Sundays & Holidays· Web: http://chandan51.blog14.fc2.com Email: chandan@arch.plala.or.jp 42 SAPPORO SOURCE FEB/MAR 2010

DEPARTMENT

Bite-size reviews

Higurashi One minute walk from Susukino subway station (Namboku line), dining bar Higurashi is hidden on the third floor of rather oddly named building - “Shako Kaikan” (social intercourse hall). Although there are no fancy store signs or advertisements, microbrew fans somehow seem to have discovered it already. The brainchild of two individuals, Yoji Hyodo and Tomoya Chida, the dining bar was created because, in their words, “We couldn’t find anywhere in Sapporo that served authentic craft beer on tap.” They demolished an existing interior area themselves, and rebuilt it with their own hands, opening in September 2007. Real ale and guest beers are served nightly while their taru-gawari beers (keg beers) change frequently. For real beer aficionados, the beer pumps are the traditional variety with a simple mechanism that pulls the beer through without the common usage of nitrogen or carbon dioxide gas, which colors the flavor of the beer. In fact there are only three of these pumps currently in use in Hokkaido and two are here. Food is courtesy of Chef Hyodo who has over 8 years experience in washoku (traditional Japanese cuisine) in Tokyo. Beer friendly dishes with a twist of sophistication are start at 500 yen, include Higurashi Fish & Chips (900 yen) with karei (flatfish), salmon mariné using locally sourced fish, and even rare basashi (horse sashimi). Try their beer curry if available. ■ Beer & Food HIGURASHI 〒064-0805札幌市中央区南５条西2丁目社交会館ビル3F South 5 West 2 Shhoko Kaikan Building 3F (close to Hosui Line Susukino Station) Tel: 011-532-8480 Open: 17:00 - 4:00 am

Matu:ro, Cucina Italiana This unpretentious little Italian Cucina is a favorite of Sapporo Source staffers, which makes us somewhat reluctant to share it. But, since we’re here to highlight the good spots around town, you leave us no choice. Just one minute walk from Marui Imai in central Odori, Matu:ro opened in April 2008 and has been serving up some of the best pasta in town since day one. Lunch on weekdays is an absolute steal - you can enjoy salad, house made focaccia, fresh pasta and a drink (espresso included) for only 900 yen, and for 600 yen more can add a meat or fish course. The evening dinner set menu is 3,800 yen or 5,900 yen, or go a la carte with dishes from 800 yen. The wine list is impressive and benefits from the restaurant having a “sibling” wine store that supplies a wide range of quality labels. Italian-trained Chef Ito’s pasta is freshly made every day. His cooking philosophy is all about simplicity. “If the ingredients are great, why complicate things?” he observes. Although he respects the traditional Italian culinary arts, he’s not obsessed or rigid about it and has been known to incorporate customers’ ideas into his cooking. We’d give him some ideas of our own, but how do you improve on food this good? ■ Matu:ro, Cucina Italiana South 1, West 1 13-5 Lunch: 11.30-15.00 · Dinner: 17.30-22.30 (L.O.) Sundays and Holidays: ~22.00 (last order) Closed: Mondays Tel: 011-241-0707

FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

On middle age... I turned 45 on January 13th. Now I can probably say my life is half over. With current average life spans, I’ll be wlucky to make it to age ninety. But this milestone occasions some thoughts about one’s middle age. Middle age enables one to look both forward and back – with the health and vim of a younger person, and the clarity of an elder. It’s like being on top of a hill: I can look behind at where I came from, and look ahead (with better focus than ever) at where I’ll probably be going. Let’s reflect upon our adult experiences (admittedly, for people like us lucky enough to live in developed countries). In our reckless twenties, many of us had no idea where we would be twenty years from now.

Still, did it matter? We were finishing our educations, starting our careers, or even selecting partners to walk the course of life with. For many, however, it was too soon to “settle down”. Hey, we hadn’t even lived our first 10,000 days yet. What was the rush? Then came our thirties, and it was time to “grow up” and start considering some “investments”: What did we want to “do” with our lives? How could we convert a “job” into a “career”? Who really were our “good friends”? Who would we spend our leisure time with? And with our body clocks ticking, it was time to decide if we wanted to reproduce or not. This meant changing any relationship that had developed out of love, or habit, into legal ties. If and when children popped out, we had the responsibility of

providing stability. Then we had to repeat the questions above. But for me, for half a decade now, it’s been the forties. Once we get more than halfway into our second set of 10,000 days, things tend to come into stark relief. Some people can see where their chosen paths will end, and wonder if they made the right decisions. Many experience a very real midlife crisis -- as in, coming to terms (or not) with a fundamental question: “Is this all there is to life?” This is a time when people suddenly make wrenching decisions that stun onlookers: “Why would you work so hard for so long to get where you are now, and then give it all up?” The answer: They just weren’t happy with what they got.

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The forties are also in some ways an awkward age, particularly in Japan. We are not young enough to get away with some youthful excesses and mistakes. Yet we are not visibly old and grey enough to be entitled to filial piety, or coast along on the respect for the elderly found in Asian societies. And for many, our present salary is hardly munificent, especially up here in Hokkaido, making us wonder how we’ll ever afford our kids’ upcoming college tuition. Will our investments help them with their investments as they bud off? Middle age is also a midpoint in the aging process. Many realize that genes and life’s experiences have aged our peers quite differently. We can look at Facebook photos of high school friends we haven’t seen for decades, and see how they’ve turned out. Some are relatively unchanged, except for the extra kilograms or the cue-ball pate. Others have become exactly like their parents – fenced in, furrowed, domesticated, surrounded by their lusty studs and fillies. Some are, incredibly, even ready to become grandparents (myself, I come off looking like a beat poet with a full head of hair, for which I am grateful). Now looking forward, as the fifties, sixties, and beyond (hopefully) loom, we

had better recognize some limitations and make some personal pacts. For soon all of the things we took for granted -- physical stamina, libido, corporal mobility and integrity, mental faculty, and the reckless optimism of youth – will be dimming if not going to seed. Then pops up the “R” word – retirement – something many thought only old fogies worry about. But now it’s our turn. Many will have paid enough years into their pension plans and still wonder if they will get enough back to take care of themselves. And others will realize that their hopes and dreams, maybe even the thought of changing and improving the world, will quite possibly not come to fruition. So they either reconcile themselves to a quiet life, cultivating a hobby to keep their minds awake and bodies moving, or make themselves known as community leaders and volunteers, if not potential political candidates (representative democracy, after all, favors the older and experienced). It is a luxury of this age to appreciate that every life stage has its benefits. But middle age in particular endows the self-aware with the knowledge of how to make adjustments to maximize self-worth and happiness. What

makes you happy? And what will you do to achieve it before you die? If not now, when? Of course, there are the nostalgic types, who hark back wistfully and say, “I wish I was, say, sixteen again.” Yes, reminiscing has its uses, but I believe it should not be a life view. I’m one of those (probably rare) people who rarely looks back, and when I do, I realize I have never been happier than now. From my current perspective as a 45-yearold, I consider that very lucky indeed. Let’s hope my second -- and third -10,000 days occasion the same emotions when I look back. “Look back not in anger”, one can hope.

■ Arudou Debito is a columnist for the Japan Times and author of three books: Japanese Only: The Otaru Hot Springs Case and Racial Discrimination in Japan (English and Japanese versions), and Handbook for Newcomers, Migrants, and Immigrants (co-written with Akira Higuchi). His website, updated daily, is at www.debito.org.

FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

DEPARTMENT In the downtown area, Sapporo Source can be found at any of these fine hotels. 1. Mercure Hotel 2. APA Hotel 3. Arimax Hotel 4. Tokyu Excel Hotel 5. Garden Palace Hotel 6. Grand Hotel 7. ANA Hotel 8. Prince Hotel 9. Century Royal Hotel 10. Dormy Inn 11. Novotel Sapporo

12. Clair Hotel 13. Leo Palace Hotel 14. Monterey Hotel 15. Crest Hotel 16. Crescent Hotel 17. Polestar Hotel 18. Sapporo House Youth Hostel 19. JR Tower Hotel (Nikko Hotel) 20. Hotel Okura 21. Chisun Grand Hotel 22. Rasso Iceberg Hotel

23. Green Hotel 1 24. Green Hotel 2 25. Toyoko Inn 26. Hotel Paco Junior 27. Hotel Royal Stay 28. Blue Wave Hotel 29. Green Hotel 3 30. Daichi Hotel 31. APA Hotel Susukino 32. Korakuen Hotel

38. Taj Mahal 39 Sombrero Mexicano 40 Lala Hair Salon 41. Kinokuniya 42. Pete’s Bar

43. Pinot 44. Habana 45. Stanley Market 46. Shichifukujin Shoten

Supporter locations 33. Royce Shop & Cafe 34. Jersey Bar 35. TK6 Bar and Grill 36. Yukikaze 37. Omnidentix

Magazines are also available on all Skybus shuttle routes from New Chitose Airport to destinations such as Sapporo, Niseko, Furano and Rusutsu. Sapporo Source can also be found at tourist information desks throughout central Sapporo. Outside the downtown area, you can find us in a wide range of other locations. If you are interested in stocking Sapporo Source at your site, please email us at: distribution@sapporosource.com

Useful Information

Travel & Tourism

Emergency Services (free from any phone including payphones) Ambulance Fire Police

119 119 110

Sapporo Citizen Contact Center A very useful service available in Japanese and English that will answer just about any question you have about living in Sapporo including jobs, immigration, official procedures, events, transportation and more. Phone 011-222-4894 Email: info4894@city.sapporo.jp Ward Offices & City Hall Office

Address

Phone Number

City Hall

Kita 1 Nishi 2, Chuo-ku, Sapporo

011-211-2111

Chuo Ward Office

Minami 3 Nishi 11, Chuo-ku, Sapporo

011-231-2400

Kita Ward Office

Kita 24 Nishi 6, Kita-ku, Sapporo

011-757-2400

Higashi Ward Office

Kita 11 Higashi 7, Higashi-ku, Sapporo

011-741-2400

Shiroishi Ward Office

Hongo-dori 3 Kita, Shiroishi-ku, Sapporo

011-861-2400

Atsubetsu Ward Office

Atsubetsu Chuo 1-5, Atsubetsu-ku, Sapporo

011-895-2400

Toyohira Ward Office

Hiragishi 6-10, Toyohira-ku, Sapporo

011-822-2400

Kiyota Ward Office

Hiraoka 1-1, Kiyota-ku, Sapporo

011-889-2400

Minami Ward Office

Makomanai Saiwai-machi 1, Minami-ku, Sapporo

011-582-2400

Nishi Ward Office

Kotoni 2-7, Nishi-ku, Sapporo

011-641-2400

Teine Ward Office

Maeda 1-11, Teine-ku, Sapporo

011-681-2400

Immigration & Consular Sapporo Regional Immigration Bureau, Odori-nishi 12 Chome, Chuo-ku - 011-261-7502 US Consulate General, Sapporo, Kita 1-jo, Nishi 28-chome, Chuo-ku - 011-641-1115 Australian Consulate, Sapporo, Sapporo Centre Bldg, Kita 5, Nishi 6, Chuo-ku – 011-242-4381 Medical General & Pharmacy: Sapporo Emergency Hospital, Nishi 19, Odori, Chuo-ku - 011-641-4316 Dentist: Omnidentix (English speaking dentist) - JR Tower, Kita 5 Nishi 2 – 011-209-5385

46 SAPPORO SOURCE FEB/MAR 2010

Sapporo International Information Centre Western Concourse, JR Reservation Centre, Sapporo JR Station 011-213-5062 Open 09:00 to 17:00 Sapporo International Plaza MN Building, North 1 West 3 (Opposite the Clock Tower) 011-211-3678 Open 09:00 to 17:30 Sapporo Tourist Information Centre Stellar Place, North 5 West 3, Chuo-ku 011-209-5020 Open 09:00 to 20:00 Lost Credit Cards Mastercard 03-3256-6271 Visa 0120-133-1363 American Express 0120-020-120 Diners 0120-074-024 General Services Sapporo Central Post Office, North 6 East 1, Chuo-ku 011-748-2451 NTT East, 0120-734-700 (English service available) www.ntt-east.co.jp Kita Gas (Customer Center), 011-231-9511 Hokkaido Electric Power Company (Hokuden), 0120-12-6565 Waterworks Bureau, 011-211-7770 Travel New Chitose Airport (General Information Line) - 0123-23-0111 Korean Airlines (KAL) - 011-210-3311 Continental Airlines (COA) - 0120-24-2414 China Southern Airlines (CSN) - 011-207-2017 Sakhalin Airlines (SHU) - 011-222-1433 China Eastern Airlines (CES)- 011-242-1258 Cathay Pacific Airways (CPA) - 03-5159-1700 EVA Airways (EVA) - 0123-45-2511 China Airlines (CAL) - 0123-46-3111 Air China (CCA) - 011-233-1688

DOWNTOWN MAP

FEB/MAR 2010 SAPPORO SOURCE

Nama Chocolate “Au Lait” ¥693

Chocolate with a smooth milk taste. Blended with fresh cream, and a hint of Cherry Marnier liqueur. Fresh “nama” chocolate with a perfect balance of cacao and milk.

Nama Chocolate “White” ¥693

Nama Chocolate “Champagne (Pierre Mignon)” ¥693

Nama Chocolate “Mild Cacao” ¥693

Nama Chocolate “Bitter” ¥693