Duty Free News International

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PRODUCT NEWS • COSMETICS

Nuance-Watson HK predicts European entry for Sasy n 10% rise for men’s beauty Savy marks travel-retail push Kevin Rozario Hong Kong International airport (HKIA) travel-retail operator, Nuance-Watson Hong Kong says that it expects to see a steady rise in the men’s beauty market this year, with year-on-year growth of around 10%, thanks in large part to mainland Chinese demand. In 2009, men’s sales grew in high double digits in line with the beauty department’s overall performance. The joint venture told DFNI that leading the men’s skincare sector is Biotherm Men whose growth it described as “impressive” but the company believes that concentration on men’s skincare is lacking and that if there was more, this would spur on sales still further. A spokesperson said: “The beauty brands’ focus is still on women’s skincare but we would welcome more men’s launches.” Nuance-Watson Hong Kong general

manager, perfume & cosmetics and technology Lay Leng Tan added: “Men’s skincare has remained quite constant in relation to our total cosmetics business over the past five years. But, we still see potential in growing this sector as we have recorded a very strong trend from PRC Chinese travellers. In 2010, a very significant portion of our men’s beauty business came from the mainland Chinese—their contribution has grown over fivefold compared with 2006 sales levels.” Nuance-Watson Hong Kong believes men’s beauty is an area that has plenty of room for growth, especially as the passenger profile at HKIA is very maleskewed. It has grouped its men’s offer into a single zone where customers can find most of the leading men’s skincare brands because it says male shopping habits are “fast and focused” unlike women who like to browse more.

Brulé to lead international expansion at Caswell-Massey US beauty house Caswell-Massey has appointed former Smashbox Cosmetics managing director for Asia Pacific and global travel-retail, Marie-Clothilde Brulé (pictured) as its vice president of international sales with a brief to grow the soaps-to-accessories company’s presence in the global market place. Brulé, who started in her new position last month—reporting directly to the chief operating officer Anthony Nichtawitz and chief executive officer Amir R Amir—is expected to target travel-retail in the first instance given her vast experience in the channel. She told DFNI: “Caswell-Massey has been present in the US since 1752 and we will now be stepping into the international arena. Our mission is to expand in the department store business and niche perfumeries and tackle the travel and tourism industry across all segments: airports, cruise lines and inflight. The brands that are to be developed internationally are the

Caswell-Massey luxury line, 1752 our men’s grooming line, Dr Hunter ’s Original Remedies, and Gianna Rose Atelier, our couture soaps and gifts items for the home.” Brulé was confident that the brands would be a success given the current focus on ‘natural’ products. She added: “The personal care industry is constantly growing and the natural and organic segments are in great demand. Some 99% of the formulation of Caswell-Massey products is natural and free of chemicals. They are biodegradable and the packaging is recyclable.” Based in Newport, Rhode Island, Caswell-Massey’s products lines include soaps, lotions, gels, fragrances and accessories—all made in the US. They are available at Neiman Marcus department stores throughout the US, a Caswell-Massey boutique in the Limelight Shops, New York and a selected numbers of retailers worldwide including Lane Crawford in Hong Kong.

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Australian natural beauty brand Sasy n Savy had its European and UK soft launch at Harrods in February—but plans for entering the travel-retail channel plus domestic markets are well underway. The skincare and body care brand, which is being sold exclusively at Harrods Pharmacy until April 1, is marketed around the use of four native Australian botanical ingredients: Kakadu plum extract which has a high concentration of vitamin C; Bearberry leaf, a strong antioxidant; Wild Rosella Flower, which is high in natural protein and nutrients; and Grass Lily, a natural healer.

Director of sales at the independent Australian- owned company, Catharine Freeman-Thomas told DFNI: “We will look to Europe in the near future, probably later this year. At present, the major export markets are Asia and the Middle East.” Negotiations with inflight players are also progressing swiftly DFNI understands. Sasy n Savy already has a travel retail presence in the brand’s home market of Australia. According to UK managing director Lulu Ball it can be found at Sydney and Brisbane airports and has just launched in Adelaide. Prices range from £9 for hand creams to £48.00 for its Intensive Serum.

Travel-retail review for PZ Cussons brands The decision from listed UK beauty house PZ Cussons to form a beauty division based in London’s Covent Garden, is likely to result in a more active role from the company in travel-retail. The new division, expected to be operational by June 1, is being set up as a strategic move to maximise the international potential of its portfolio of beauty brands: St Tropez (tanning), The Sanctuary (spa), and Charles Worthington (haircare). PZ Cussons group chief executive Alex Kanellis said: “Following the acquisition of St Tropez in September 2010, the group has reviewed options for the most effective structure to drive the profitable growth on a global scale. Given the similarities and synergies which exist between St Tropez, The Sanctuary and Charles Worthington, the creation of the beauty division was the logical next step.” PZ Cussons spokesperson Victoria Wade told DFNI: “I can confirm that St Tropez is already in select UK travel

(airport) retail locations and has been for several years. We are currently reviewing the distribution strategy and future plans for travel-retail for all three brands in the beauty division.” Price points for them are: St Tropez (£10-£30); Sanctuary (£2.99 - £25) Charles Worthington (£1.99 - £5.69). Michelle Feeney, currently CEO of St Tropez, has been appointed to the position of CEO of PZ Cussons Beauty, reporting to Kanellis, and is supported by managing directors Ann Murray (UK) and Selma Terzic (International). Feeney is said to have “transformed St Tropez since joining the business in 2006”. Prior to this she spent 11 years at Estée Lauder and has a lot of brand-building skills and global experience under her belt. The PZ Cussons Group will operate in the UK as two autonomous divisions: PZ Cussons Beauty and PZ Cussons UK, the latter comprising the group’s core washing and bathing portfolio including Imperial Leather, Original Source and Carex.

Beauty stores at high-tech Incheon rail hub Incheon International airport, one the world’s top-ranked travel-retail locations for perfume and cosmetics sales, added yet more shops to its portfolio when it completed a shopping mall at its Transportation Center—with beauty taking two prominent standalone spaces. The high-tech building is the end point of the Airport Railroad Express (AREX) service from downtown Seoul. With millions of people expected to use the train, Incheon International Airport

Corporation has turned the hub into its latest shopping and entertainment complex coving an area of 4,744sq m. In March, a performance hall and indoor skating rink were added while South Korea’s largest multiplex cinema chain, CJ CGV, opened two movie theatres. The number of shop and eateries also rose to 18 and among them are Olive Young, a drug store selling various items including cosmetics and cosmetic accessories, and Etude House, a popular cosmetic brand for younger age groups in Korea. www.DFNIonline.com


COSMETICS • PRODUCT NEWS An IIAC spokesperson said: “Going beyond the conventional concept of shopping at an airport, the complex at Transportation Center will become a popular hangout, not only for airport users but for dating couples and families living in the neighborhood.”

Morsel Big spender: A Russian traveller in the Aelia/Hédiard gourmet store at Nice Côte d’Azur airport spent €3,324 ($4,432) on July 27 on a selection of wines and fine foods, including a bottle of Château Lafitte Rothschild 2004 and two bottles of Château Latour 1983 and 1986. Big spender: A Russian traveller in the Aelia/Hédiard gourmet store at Nice Côte d’Azur airport spent €3,324 ($4,432) on July 27 on a selection of wines and fine foods, including a bottle of Château Lafitte Rothschild 2004 and two bottles of Château Latour 1983 and 1986. Latour 1983 and 1986.

www.DFNIonline.com

April 2011 • Duty-Free News International • 25


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