savour Welcome to
A celebration of north-east food and drink ISSUE 04, 2013
FROM THE EDITOR
03
contacts issue.com/savour
MACKINTOSH MEDIA Savour is produced by Mackintosh Media Ltd., Regent House, 36 Regent Quay, Aberdeen AB11 5BE. CHIEF EXECUTIVE
Steve Mackintosh T: +44 (0) 1224 288981 E: steve@mackintoshmedia.co.uk EDITORIAL
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Calum Farquhar T: +44 (0) 1224 288982 E: calum@mackintoshmedia.co.uk
A glorious summer has come to an end but autumn brings with it a vast variety of seasonal produce. Fruit and vegetables are at their best and great in soups and stews and we celebrate the game season with slow cooked pheasant, wild mushrooms and wild trout from our flowing rivers. Game is the central topic in this issue and you’ll find some great recipes to try at home including tea-infused venison and hearty vegetable soup. Carol Brown, our resident wine expert, suggests which grape best suits your hearty dishes. As usual, we’re keen to boast about local talent so don’t miss our intriguing chat with Nicky Bradford at home in her old kitchen at Kincardine Castle and our meeting with Michael Moss, owner and chef at the successful Mi Amore restaurant in Huntly
Street. We also disclose how a local Buckie lad has made good in Bath….with the help of his mum! Our ‘Breakaway’ pages take us back to beautiful Perthshire and also a visit to our glorious capital city.
ACCOUNTS & DISTRIBUTION
T: +44 (0) 1224 288983 E: accounts@mackintoshmedia.co.uk SALES
However, centre stage in this issue is our interview with the culinary idol that is Raymond Blanc. He may be one of the busiest chefs on our shores but Raymond was happy to chat to Savour’s editor about his life and astonishing industry. Our ‘News Bites’ will keep you informed of what’s happening in the kitchens and front of house in our local restaurants while we continue to reflect on the talent of our skilled producers and adventurous kitchen brigades who strive to ensure our region remains a premier destination for culinary excellence.
Sam Menzies T: +44 (0) 1224 288980 E: sam@mackintoshmedia.co.uk
If you would like a newsletter or brochure written and designed, company re-branding, logo creation, exhibition and display graphics or menu design contact our creative team on (01224) 288982.
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04 From Montmartre
Coq au Vin Rouge Maison With cooler weather and an autumn chill in the air our thoughts turn to some warming classic dishes to return home to after a long day walking in the heather. Ingredients • 1 large red onion • 500g beef steak mince • 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce • Handful chopped fresh parsley • 80g piece mature Cheddar, cut into 4 equal cubes • Olive oil for brushing • 4 ciabatta rolls, split in two • 1 Little Gem lettuce, leaves separated • 2 ripe tomatoes, sliced • Tomato relish, to serve
Method 1: Preheat the barbecue. Cut half the onion into rings and set aside. Finely chop the remainder and put into a large bowl along with the mince, Worcestershire sauce and parsley. Season and mix well with your hands. Shape into 4 burgers, push a cube of Cheddar into the centre of each, then re-shape to fully enclose the cheese. 2: Brush the burgers with a little oil and cook on the hot barbecue for 10 minutes, turning halfway, until just cooked through and charred. Set aside to rest for a few minutes. 3: Meanwhile, brush the cut side of each ciabatta roll with oil. Barbecue, cut-side down, until toasted. 4: Put some onion rings, lettuce and tomato onto the base of each roll. Top with a burger, spoon over some relish and top with the remaining ciabatta halves. Serve with extra relish on the side and some oven chips, if you like. Tip: Don't buy lean mince as you need a bit of fat to help keep the burgers juicy. You can shape the burgers the day before and chill overnight. Bring up to room temperature before cooking. To cook indoors: Cook the burgers on a hot griddle or frying pan for 10 minutes until cooked through. Toast the ciabatta rolls under the grill.
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ingredients A celebration of North-east food and drink ISSUE 04, 2013
CONTENT
38
27
Foods to Fall for
p10/11
Foods to Fall for this Autumn
Farmer’s Markets
p14/15
Fresh produce at the Farmer’s Markets and where to find them
Chatting with Nicky
p16/17
Chatting with Nicky Bradford in her Award-winning Kitchen
Glen Tanar Estate
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12
p20/21
Join a shoot on the Glen Tanar Estate
Wines Uncorked
p25
The Alluring Pinot Noir
Hotel Opening
34
46
50
p40/41
Excitement Mounts for new Hotel Opening
Breakaway!
p50/53
An Overnight in Edinburgh and Perthshire
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Carry a Carrier!
News Bites...
Farm Shop Growth
SCOTTISH shoppers used 750m supermarket thin plastic carrier bags in 2012, up 1.1% on 2011 according to latest data from not-for-profit recycling advisory company WRAP. That was the highest rate of use per person in the UK, says the Scottish Government. But carrier bag use is growing faster in England The UK total was 8.1bn, up 1.3%. England saw a 4.4% increase, while Wales, which introduced a statutory charge for carrier bags in 2011 saw use decline by 76% in the first full year affected by the charge. Holyrood announced last month that it will require Scottish retailers to charge a minimum of 5p a bag by October 2014. And, commenting on the data Scottish Government Environment Secretary Richard Lochhead said: “Thousands of Scottish people already use bags for life but it’s disappointing to see that shoppers are continuing to use a staggering 750 million carrier bags each year – that’s 12 bags each per month. “The charge in Scotland will not be a tax but will see retailers donating the proceeds to charity – and we could see up to £5 million per year going to good causes. “I look forward to working with retailers to implement our proposed system.”
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The farm shop is a growth industry across the UK, but Aberdeenshire’s share of the market is developing as few other parts of Scotland. At a rough estimate there are nearly forty such businesses in the region, from large-scale, family-day-out operations to much simpler farm-gate shop fronts. “There’s no doubt we live in a bubble up here,” says Andrew Booth, owner of Newburgh’s The Store, one of the biggest such enterprises. “I resisted opening a coffee shop for ten years and I’ve had to eat my words. There’s no doubt it has brought the business on to the next stage.” Part of the reason for this is undoubtedly the popularity of their Aberdeen Angus beef, and Booth believes one of the reasons the area’s farm shop scene took off in the last decade or so is in some way attributable to the area’s international reputation. Yet to focus too much on the famous beef is to dismiss Aberdeenshire’s versatility as
farming land. “We’re blessed, in a way, that there’s a huge range of topography and scenery in Aberdeenshire,” says Phil Swire, farmer at relative newcomer Balmakewan Farm Shop, near Laurencekirk, “and that leads to a wide range of produce. I think there’s a lot of truth in the phrase that people come to Aberdeenshire to see the best of Scotland. There’s a vast array of farms and businesses, and I think that’s quite unique in Scotland. It gives us a very interesting and tasty larder.” Balmakewan’s speciality, he says, is a well-stocked cheese and deli counter, as well as their own farmgrown fruit and veg. Interestingly Booth confirms only steady growth for his public-facing side of the business, with an understandable blip in 2008, and says the market for farm-grown and -reared produce in Aberdeenshire is still some way from saturation point. “We’re always supportive of shops opening,’ he says. “There’s a lot to see up here. The more in the area, the better it is for the area.”
07
Leading Butcher Opens City Shop A leading north-east butchery firm celebrated the official opening of new premises in Aberdeen city centre with a family fun day. Growing local company Davidsons Specialist Butchers have taken over retail premises in the city’s McCombie’s Court, continuing the location’s long association with the meat industry and giving the well-known north-east company an important city centre presence. The move adds a third location to the Davidsons Specialist Butchers’ portfolio, joining existing outlets at Dobbies, Aberdeen and the 2011/12 Butcher’s Shop of the Year in Inverurie town centre. The opening was marked with a fun-filled day and the official opening was performed by Aberdeen Football Club’s Barry Robson. Commenting on the opening, John Davidson said: “McCombie’s Court and the surrounding area are to be the focus of major redevelopment in coming years and we feel it is an exciting location in which we can grow our business. We anticipate that this city centre presence will be instrumental in driving future growth within our company, adding to
our already established and very successful retail units elsewhere in the area.” Laurent Vernet, head of marketing with Quality Meat Scotland (QMS), said the opening of the new shop was another welcome indication of the increased confidence and optimism among butchers. “The modern-day butcher’s shop offers a unique combination of knowledge, traditional skills and innovation and it is great to see businesses such as Davidsons Specialist Butchers thriving and growing their businesses through providing excellent customer service and meat products.” Davidsons Specialist Butchers operate award-winning, family run outlets in Inverurie and Aberdeen as well as running an online shop bringing their products to customers the length and breadth of the UK. The McCombie’s Court shop is open 8am to 6pm, Monday to Saturday and can be contacted on (01224) 646960. For further information on Davidsons Specialist Butchers, call (01467) 621212 or visit www.johndavidsons.com
News Bites Adored Fjord If you’re out and about in rural Aberdeenshire, you may have paid a visit to the homely Fjord Inn situated in the village of Fisherford, midway between the market towns of Inverurie, Turriff and Huntly. If not, get that finger dialling and make a reservation now as this highly-rated restaurant has been attracting discerning diners from far afield and is definitely worth a visit. It is home to Norman and Evelyn Mundie who own and run this delightful restaurant. Both are extremely knowledgeable, with Norman putting his vast experience as a chef to good use in the kitchen, creating luscious dishes from carefully sourced fresh local produce. Evelyn is the extremely personable front-of-house host, welcoming many old and new faces to this busy eatery. Norman’s own style is evident in his amply-portioned, good honest food enhanced with a glass of wine from the well-chosen wine list. There’s no better way to spend some time than by enjoying Norman’s amazing cuisine and Evelyn’s hospitality in front of a real, roaring coal fire.
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Fed up with Produce from Supermarkets?
Bored of the same old meals and looking for some variety? The Green Grocer, Inverurie, offer a fruit and veg box system where fresh local produce can be delivered to your door. Boxes start from as little as £8 and can be made to any value to suit your requirements and, unlike many other veg box systems, with The Green Grocer you can select what you don’t like and you’ll never get it in your box! If you want potatoes, onions and apples every week, no problem! John Sorrie of The Green Grocer explains: “We took over The Green Grocer in early 2012 and a small veg box system was in place offering organic fruit and veg. We looked at the country of origin of much of
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the produce and found it was almost all imported. We also then found that organic vegetables can be sprayed with pesticides which seemed to defeat the purpose, so now our primary focus is on local, fresh, traceable produce. “Of course, we are realistic and realise people want things like bananas every week and we won’t be growing them in the north-east of Scotland any time soon, so we do have to buy some items from further afield. “What we find is that local produce is fresher than that found in the supermarkets which may have taken several days to reach the shelves from the time it was picked. Our produce such as potatoes, carrots, courgettes, salad leaves, cabbage, cauliflower, beetroot, turnips
and broccoli comes from within about 5 miles of our shop and much of it is picked the day it arrives here. We also find much of our produce is cheaper than supermarkets too: for example, I saw cauliflowers in a supermarket for £1.80; ours are just £1 and they are far larger! “Boxes can be collected from the shop or can be delivered for a small charge depending on location. We deliver in Inverurie, Aberdeen, Westhill, Oldmeldrum, Insch, Kemnay, Kintore and Alford, and most locations within that area.” To find out more, email info@inveruriegreengrocer.co.uk or call (01467) 620245.
An AGA is not simply a cooker but a way of life. Since the very first model was installed almost 90 years ago, the AGA has taken root in the hearts and lives of hundreds of thousands of people around the world. It is because of this AGA Aberdeen is very excited to announce a new addition to the AGA cooker collection – the AGA Dual Control. The new electric AGA Dual Control model is everything you love about the AGA cooker, including the iconic AGA design, but with added flexibility and much reduced running and servicing costs. The AGA Dual Control ovens feature a new low energy setting and can also be switched off completely. What’s more, the two hotplates can be turned on and off independently and take just 10 minutes to heat up. This means you can make a reduction in the overall heat input into the room from the cooker when desired and, in turn, reduce running costs.
Indeed running costs can be up to 50% less than a 13-amp electric AGA cooker. The extra degree of flexibility means you can use you AGA Dual Control in a number of different ways. For example, on a warm summer evening you may choose to have the ovens turned right down or switched off. Available in 12 stunning colours – including the new AQUA – the AGA Dual Control is perfect for those who love good food, a stylish, cosy kitchen and the benefits of reduced running and servicing costs. To find out more information about AGA cookers, stoves, refrigerators and cookware from the AGA Cookshop collection, visit AGA Aberdeen. AGA will also be showcasing products at the Scottish Home Show from the 27th-29th September 2013 at the Aberdeen Exhibition and Conference Centre.
10
Autumn Foods to Fall For
The days of bright berries, crisp salads and succulent summer fruit are behind us for another year. While you might be disappointed to see the last of the seasonal salads, don't fret - there are delicious replacements on the way to help you keep up your healthy eating habits. Autumn is a season of deep green, dark yellow and brilliant orange and these colours mean the fruits and vegetables are rich in disease-fighting phytochemicals. The more colourful the fruit, the better it is for your health. Here are some suggestions for the most delicious and healthy autumn fruits and veggies. Make them a regular part of your diet, so you can continue to reap the nutritional rewards that fruits and vegetables offer throughout the year.
While they don't contain the same high amounts of vitamin A as carrots, parsnips are a good source of fibre, vitamin C, calcium and iron. Look for smooth and firm, small- to medium-sized parsnips for the best quality. Large coarse roots usually have woody or fibrous centres. Traditionally, parsnips are boiled and mashed together with carrots, but they can be steamed, microwaved, boiled, roasted or sautĂŠed as a side vegetable. They also stand in nicely for carrots, potatoes or sweet potatoes in most recipes, and lend a gentle sweetness to soups and other combinations of root vegetables.
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11 Turnips and swedes. A member of the mustard family, turnips – known to us as swedes - have a white flesh with a tough outer skin that ranges from yellow to purple and a more bitter flavour than potatoes. They are a good source of vitamin C and offer 23g dietary fibre per serving. Like their cousins, broccoli, cabbage and Brussels sprouts, these cruciferous vegetables contain the potent phytochemical sulforaphane, which has been shown to protect against cancer, especially breast cancer. Try incorporating them into recipes where you'd normally use plain old tatties. They work well boiled, mashed or roasted.
Despite its name, the sweet potato is not related to the potato. Potatoes are classified as tubers, while the sweet potato is a storage root. Good quality sweet potatoes will be firm, smooth-skinned and tan to light rose in colour. They contain 30 milligrams (50,000 IU) of beta-carotene (vitamin A) in a serving, which is four times the recommended daily allowance (RDA) per serving. You would have to eat 23 portions of broccoli to consume the same amount of beta-carotene. They are also high in vitamin C (one serving provides 50% of the RDA) and provide three grams of fibre per serving. Sweet potatoes are an ideal choice for people with diabetes, since they are considered a low glycaemic food. This means that the carbohydrate in sweet potatoes is released slowly, which helps maintain steady blood sugar levels. White potatoes, on the other hand, are a high glycaemic food, as they release carbohydrates very quickly and cause large fluctuations in blood sugar levels. Sweet potatoes are ideal for baking, grilling or steaming, and you can substitute them in any recipe that calls for potatoes.
These are more than just Halloween decorations. The pumpkin's bright orange colour is a dead giveaway that it's loaded with an important antioxidant, beta-carotene, as well as being rich in vitamin C and folate. You can roast your own seeds from a fresh pumpkin in a hot oven (190°C) for about 45 minutes. If you do not fancy cooking a pumpkin, don't forget that you can use canned pumpkin in any recipe. It’s great served as a tasty side dish for a main meal and ideal for making hearty winter soups, as well as being baked into bread and pumpkin pie.
These are the baby cousins of the Florida or navel orange and are also known as mandarin oranges. They can be quite difficult to distinguish from tangerines, as they are both bitter orange hybrids, but the main difference is that clementines are often seedless. They have loose skin, so they are easy to peel and make a great portable snack. They marry well with chicken dishes, so try adding some wedges to a grilled chicken wrap for a tropical flavour. If your salad is looking a little dreary, dress it up with a few clementines for more colour or blend segments with low-fat vanilla yoghurt and skimmed milk for a creamy fruit smoothie.
Apples contain flavonoids, some of the most potent antioxidants around. Several studies have shown that people who eat a diet that's rich in flavonoids have a lower risk of heart disease and heart attacks as well as several types of cancer. And to top that, they are good for more than baking. Try this simple recipe and fill the whole house with a cinnamon-apple scent: slice four McIntosh apples into pieces and place in a saucepan with two tablespoons of water and one cinnamon stick. Simmer on a low heat until the apples are tender and the sauce begins to thicken. Serve warm with a dollop of low-fat vanilla ice cream or frozen yoghurt or stir into your breakfast porridge.
Pears are a high-fibre food, with a medium pear providing four grams of fibre, which is equivalent to one and a half cups of brown rice. Most of the fibre is also of the soluble kind, which can help lower blood cholesterol levels and improve blood sugar control.
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in season Summer is over which means the bright berries and refreshing foods of the warmer months make way for the weird and wonderful foods of autumn. As the nights draw in, make the most of the season’s glut of fruit and veg by making chutneys or snuggle up on the sofa with comfort foods, pies, casseroles and crumbles. It’s also game season, when birds like pheasant and a host of other fowl suddenly become available on the shelves, ready for roasts and stews.
Turn soft fruits into jams for winter and pickle or preserve your summer vegetables with a favourite relish recipe. Make apple pie sauce or freeze apple slices to use in pies and crumbles.
• APPLE • AUBERGINE • BEETROOT • BUTTERNUT SQUASH • CABBAGE • CHICORY • DAMSONS • FENNEL • FIG
September
• GLOBE ARTICHOKE • PEAR • PLUM • PUMPKIN
Make soups with pumpkins or butternut squash. Monkfish, oysters and eel are good seafood choices this month. Celebrate the game season with slow-cooked pheasant, wild mushrooms and hearty root vegetables.
• APPLE • CABBAGE • CELERIAC • GROUSE • KALE • MUSSELS • OYSTER • PARTRIDGE • PHEASANT • VENISON • SCALLOP
October savour
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• SEA BASS • SLOE • WILD DUCK • WILD MUSHROOMS
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Turriff Market Turriff, situated in the heart of rural Aberdeenshire, is a traditional market town. So it’s no surprise that much excitement surrounded the re-launch of the local farmers’ market earlier his year which was part of an initiative supported by Aberdeenshire Council. Each month Turriff market has a different theme and provides entertainment for shoppers, giving the market a friendly vibrant atmosphere. With over 30 stalls including Charlie Bruce’s beef, Eden plants, Sutherlands fish, fresh fruit and veg from TPS, homebakes, jewellery and candles, there are lots of fresh local produce and traditional crafts on offer. The resurgent market has provided a boost to Turriff and has been welcomed by both retailers and locals. The market aims to capitalise upon its new momentum with further emphasis on quality, local produce, complemented with a variety of arts and crafts. Turriff market can be found on Balmellie Street every third Saturday of the month. If you have any enquiries, please contact audrey.michie@aberdeenshire.gov.uk.
Featured Producer – CP & MP Bruce Located just north of King Edward, six miles from Turriff, CP & MP Bruce are suppliers of traditionally-reared Highland beef, lamb and pork, popular with local clients and visitors alike. The Bruce family started the butchery business in 2005 and have rightly earned an outstanding reputation for their excellent selection of meat products from livestock bred and reared on-site or locally. Their Highland cattle beef is particularly highly regarded for its superb flavour. The Bruce family pride themselves on their first class produce and excellent service. Over the years their client base has grown rapidly, with many returning time and time again to sample the wide selection of beef, pork, lamb and award winning sausages and burgers. CP & MP Bruce present a wide range of their excellent produce at the three Aberdeenshire markets they attend per month – Turriff, Macduff and Huntly - which has in turn helped to raise awareness of their farm shop at Bogside.
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Farmers’ Markets can be found at: 1. ABERDEEN - last Saturday of the month 9am-5pm 2. ALFORD - last Saturday of the month 9am-1pm 3. BALMEDIE - 2nd Saturday of the month 10am-2pm 4. BANCHORY - 3rd Saturday of the month 9am-1pm 5. FRASERBURGH - Super Saturdays - June - September – 2nd Saturday of month 6. HUNTLY - 1st Saturday of the month 9am-1pm 7. INVERURIE - 2nd Saturday of the month 9am-1pm 8. MACDUFF - Last Saturday of the month 9am-12.30pm 9. PETERHEAD - 1st Saturday of the month 10am-3pm 10. STONEHAVEN - 1st Saturday of the month 9am-1pm 11. TORPHINS - Every Wednesday 12. TURRIFF - 3rd Saturday of the month 9am-12.30pm 13. WESTHILL - 1st Saturday of the month 9am-1pm
Homemade BBQ Marinade This delicious sauce is a must-have for any barbecue. It can be used as a marinade or heated through and used as a side, and goes well with any type of meat.
Ingredients • 4 level tablespoons of clear honey • 3 tablespoons of soy sauce • 3 tablespoons of tomato ketchup • Tabasco sauce • 1 small clove of garlic • Mustard powder • Paprika • Salt and black pepper • Juice of a small orange • 4 tablespoons wine vinegar
Method 1: Put the honey, soy sauce and tomato ketchup into a bowl. Peel, crush and add the garlic. 2: Season to taste with mustard powder, paprika, salt and freshly ground pepper, then add the orange juice and wine vinegar. 3: Mix the ingredients in the bowl and heat the mixture through.
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Heaven Preserve
Nicky Bradford and Margaret Stephen are the triumphant force behind the successful Kincardine Castle Kitchen. The ingenious ladies create mouth-watering jams, preserves and amazing handmade biscuits in their old kitchen at the castle on Royal Deeside.
The branded and carefully packaged products include shortbreads, brownies, cookies, jams, chutneys and award-winning marmalades. Savour’s editor took the short trip to Kincardine O’Neil to meet Nicky, who, along with husband and Laird Andrew, own and manage the estate.
Q: You have a fantastic walled garden at Kincardine Castle. Does that mean the majority of ingredients in your products come from there? A: Part of the reason for starting Kincardine Kitchen was to use up the ingredients from the walled garden. We grow a variety of fruit and veg, from apples, pears, plums and rhubarb through to onions, courgettes and beetroot - the kinds of things you’d expect to see in a Victorian kitchen garden. It gives me huge satisfaction to turn them into a product that others will enjoy. We also use eggs from our own free-range hens, which I think make our chocolate brownies and biscotti extra delicious. However, with our big range of products, we cannot hope to produce all the ingredients ourselves. Q: You have a second kitchen purely dedicated to making these products; so what is made there? A: Kincardine Kitchen is a very small artisan business, making a range of about a dozen different jams, jellies, chutneys and marmalades, which vary according to the season. And about the same number of baked goods – three types of shortbread, cookies, meringues, biscuits and our new savoury range, which are proving incredibly popular. Everything is made and packed by hand in small batches, and tastes and looks as though you might have made it yourself. Q: Do you employ a kitchen team
specifically to make these products? A: We employ Margaret Stephen, who has been with us from the beginning and who helped me develop the business in the early days. Many of the recipes are hers - tried, trusted and handed down - and our daughter Louisa, who teaches at Leiths School of Food and Wine in London, has also helped with advice. I spend a fair bit of time in the kitchen myself and we employ casual workers for busy periods. Q: So where can I purchase these delicious items? A: We sell through a variety of shops in and around Deeside, and further afield. Kincardine O’Neil Post Office stocks our complete range, and other places that have a large turnover of our products include Raemoir Garden Centre, Mitchells of Inverurie, Food for Thought in New Deer, Castleton Farmshop, Finzean Farmshop and Strachans of Aboyne. Full details of our stockists are on our website, www.kincardinekitchen.co.uk where you can buy online. We also attend Banchory Farmers Market, Taste of Grampian and various other events. Q: Do you have any plans to continue classes on making marmalade, jams and chutneys in the near future? A: We did a couple of successful classes on making preserves earlier in the year and would love to do more. No plans at the moment though. I was surprised at how much I knew and was able to
share, and miraculously all the things we made on the courses worked really well, including one of our batches of Seville Orange Marmalade which was sent off to the World Marmalade Awards and won a Silver Medal. Q: Is there any one product you are especially proud of? A: I’m proud of all of our products, but I guess if I had to pick one it might be our Cheese Crispies, launched last year, which went from a standing start to being one of our most popular products in a matter of weeks and, along with our Spicy Rosemary Peanuts, were Highly Commended at the Grampian Food Forum Innovations Awards this year. Q: I believe you also host corporate events and dinner parties. Is it true you’ve had some of Britain’s best known chefs stay and cook? A: We’ve been incredibly fortunate to have a host of famous names cooking at the Castle: Gordon Ramsay, James Martin (as gorgeous in the flesh as he is on telly), Theo Randall, Nick Nairn, Brian Turner, Anthony Worrall Thomson, Paul Rankin, Ed Baines, the Tanner brothers and Tom Kitchin to name but a few. One of my jobs is to source ingredients for them, which is sometimes challenging, but they are all incredibly complimentary about the quality of the produce that the north-east can produce. Occasionally I have to cook for them, which used to terrify me, but, like anyone else, chefs are delighted to have a plate of food cooked for them.
18 Photo by Ben Dearnley
Hearty Vegetable Soup Ingredients • 1 tablespoon olive oil • 1 brown onion, chopped • 2 garlic cloves, crushed • 4 shortcut rindless bacon rashers, chopped • 1 medium courgette, chopped • 1 medium carrot, peeled, chopped • 3 celery stalks, trimmed, chopped • 1/2 (600g) cauliflower, cut into small florets • 400g can diced tomatoes • 1 litre salt-reduced beef stock • 1 cup dried mini penne pasta • 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil leaves
Method 1: Heat oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion, garlic and bacon. Cook, stirring for 3 to 5 minutes or until bacon is golden. Add courgette, carrot, celery and cauliflower. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes or until vegetables start to brown. 2: Add tomato, stock and 2 cups cold water. Cover. Bring to the boil. Reduce heat to low. Simmer for 20 to 25 minutes or until vegetables are just tender. Add pasta. Season with salt and pepper. Simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes or until pasta is tender. Stir in basil. Serve.
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The term 'game' applies to wild animals and birds that are hunted and eaten. It also includes birds and animals once caught in the wild that are now raised domestically, such as quail, rabbit and deer (the latter two can be farmed or wild; quails are no longer allowed to be shot in the wild, so are always farmed).
wood pigeon. The second is furred game, including hare, rabbit, venison and 'wild' boar.
Wild game's generally more flavoursome than farmed meat, and may be a little tougher, depending on the age of the animal. To counteract the toughness, it's 'hung' after shooting to help tenderise the meat and encourage the development of 'gamey' flavours. The longer the meat is hung, the more pronounced the flavour will become, but hanging periods usually range from two days (for rabbit) to up to 12 days (for venison).
When buying oven-ready game, look for moist, well-shaped cuts that are firm to the touch, not slimy, with no discolouration or dry spots. The meat should smell fresh. The skin on game birds should be smooth and supple and the wing tips moist and pliable.
In earlier times, birds would be hung by their heads until the body fell off, at which point they would be ready for cooking. This method is probably a little too strong for today's palate but hanging for a short time is worthwhile: if game isn't allowed to develop its unique flavour, you may as well buy and cook farmed meat. Game falls into two categories. The first is feathered game or game birds, including grouse, pheasant, partridge, quail, snipe, wild duck, woodcock and
You can buy oven-ready game direct from game dealers, butchers, farm shops, online suppliers and supermarkets (game from the latter will almost always be farmed).
If you're not confident about what to buy, don't be afraid to ask for advice. Tell your game dealer or butcher how gamey you want your meat and also how you plan to cook it. They should be able to tell you hold old your chosen game is, how long it has been hung and whether it's fresh or wild. It's important to know the age of your game, because this will affect how you cook it. Young game can be successfully roasted for a short time at a high heat. Older game will be tough if you cook it in this way and needs slow braising, pot roasting or stewing to become tender. A young bird's beak and feet will be pliable and the breast firm and proud. Young rabbits and hares have ears that can be torn easily.
Fresh wild game can only be bought in season but it can be bought frozen at any time. Farmed game is not subject to the same seasons and some, such as venison, is available yearround. Each type of game can only be shot during its shooting season, so check this before you go hunting. After hanging, game should be plucked and drawn (gutted) before being chilled or frozen. Fresh game should be stored in the coldest part of your fridge and cooked and eaten within a couple of days. Make sure it can't touch or drip onto other food, especially ready-to-eat foods (such as salad and cooked meat). To freeze game, leave it in its original packaging, or wrap in greaseproof paper and aluminium foil or a freezer bag and freeze on the day of purchase. It can be frozen for up to three months. Defrost game in the fridge (thawing it quickly out of the fridge increases the risk of food poisoning). Take it out of the freezer a day or two before cooking, depending on the size or the animal. To store cooked game, cool it quickly then cover and keep in the refrigerator for two days at the most. If reheating, ensure the meat is reheated thoroughly.
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Rather than buy your game from a butcher or supermarket, you may wish to take to the moorlands and shoot your own. Right in the heart of stunning Royal Deeside is the glorious Glen Tanar Estate, which everyone interested in hunting, shooting and fishing must put on their list. Thanks to the forward thinking of owners Michael and Claire Bruce, the estate has developed into a place for everyone to enjoy. Hunting is an intrinsic part of Glen Tanar’s history; just take a step into the grand Victorian ballroom to discover the extent of that rich heritage. The ballroom has an intricately beamed ceiling which is adorned with over 600 antlers – many of which are over 100 years old. Like so many other country estates, activity on the moorland in the glen increases from the ‘Glorious Twelfth’ of August at the start of the grouse shooting season. Driven grouse shooting returned to Glen Tanar in 2010 and, thanks to the hard work of estate staff, the population of grouse has steadily increased. There are also opportunities for deer stalking on the 25,000 acre estate and this is managed on a one-to-one basis with a client. The estate, which has a mixture of moorland and woodland and sits in the shadow of Mount Keen, supports a thriving herd of red and roe deer. Deer stalking allows the population and the local habitat to be safely managed, and all parties are accompanied by the estate’s own team of experienced stalkers, ensuring that best practices are observed. Colin Maclean, who has been the wildlife manager at the Glen Tanar Estate in Aboyne for four years, said: "Stags and hinds that are shot on the hill are killed humanely. One minute they are wandering around and then, it is over. You won’t find a leaner or healthier red meat around. It’s packed with health benefits and you can buy it locally; it hasn’t been shipped all around the world.” The hind season offers an accessible alternative for city dwellers. The Glen Tanar estate charges £225 per day, with the possibility of shooting 2-3 hinds weighing approximately 35kg each. Once the meat is butchered on the grounds, guests would be charged £3.50 - £4/kg.
Typically, supermarkets charge £40/kg for prime cuts of venison. Colin added: "A group of three friends could stock up their freezers with steaks, loins, chops and roasts for about £150 each, if they came for the day. We get many of the locals who come by on a day rate for the hind season. People who have done this since they were children bring their children and their grandchildren, and pass it down in their families." For those visitors more hooked on water, the delights of salmon or trout fishing on the estate should not be missed. Glen Tanar boasts four beats on the banks of the River Dee. Fly fishing for salmon can be booked on a daily, weekly or part-weekly basis. The beats together form a 16-mile stretch of the river and each have yielded in the region of 120 salmon per season in recent years. The estate has its own well-stocked private trout loch. Visitors can take a boat out and try fly-fishing for rainbow trout and brown trout, with a maximum of two rods per boat. Two fish can be taken by adults during a session while children, who must be accompanied by an adult, can take one each. Game can be taken home or is sold to game dealers who supply supermarkets. It is also used by Liz Peck who is the housekeeper to Glen Tanar House and provides a service for guests staying in the holiday cottages on the estate called ‘Liz’s Larder’. You can experience true Scottish hospitality here by staying in one of these selfcatering cottages where you’re really made to feel at home. Liz offers guests the opportunity to enjoy the true taste of Royal Deeside with home-made bread, baking, jams and chutneys, plus a range of oven-ready meals freshly prepared on the day required for guests to enjoy at their convenience. All Liz’s dishes are prepared with seasonal produce sourced locally and from organic suppliers where possible. For more information on Glen Tanar Estate, visit www.glentanar.co.uk, find it on Facebook or call 01339 886451.
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We are all guilty of doing it from time to time; an apple here or an onion there but each item of food discarded adds to the 566 tonnes of food and drink Scotland wastes each year. To put that into perspective, that’s 50 double decker buses, 80 elephants or three blue whales. With food prices rising, the Scottish Women`s Rural Institutes (SWRI) wants to help people save money with clever cooking. Jane Hogg, a keen member of the SWRI and a national SWRI demonstrator, is a specialist in the art of zero food waste. “Being brought up in a traditional farming background, my mother always worked with the theory of
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‘waste not, want not’, always providing good healthy food with minimal waste,” Jane said. “As we effectively throw away up to £450 each year in wasted food, meal planning is important as well as being cost effective. Get back to basics and use your senses as opposed to relying on best before dates. If it smells off, chances are it probably is off.” In the 1990s, a loaf of economy brand bread could be bought for as little as 7p. In 2013, the average price for a loaf of bread is £1.30 - a rise of 1757%. As average annual earnings have only increased by 92% in that time, every penny really does count.
Jane explains: “Don’t be afraid to try some strange combinations in order to use up food in the fridge or cupboard. I sometimes make what we call a ‘hoover tea’, just using up whatever is in the fridge. I have always been passionate about food and the role it should play in family life. As a proud member of the SWRI for 32 years, I have presented over 100 cookery demonstrations for local institutes and groups, and for the past five years have also been a SWRI national demonstrator.” Jane regularly looks at new ways to cut back on costs while maintaining the quality and taste.
Below are her top 10 tips for leftover food: 1: Buy potatoes and vegetables from the reduced counter - they are not going to go off by tomorrow. 2: Blend the heels of bread in the processor and store in the freezer for when you need breadcrumbs. 3: If you have leftover cauliflower cheese, add some chicken or vegetable stock and liquidise for a tasty soup. 4: Turn leftover potatoes and vegetables into hash cakes or a frittata. 5: If you have leftover rice or couscous, chill quickly then add veg and fruit and have as
6: Toast off some muesli and layer in glasses with fruit and cream for a tasty dessert. 7: Stew looking a bit sparse? Add a handful of lentils to bulk it out. 8: When bananas are getting overripe, peel and wrap in cling film, then pop in the freezer to use for fruit smoothies. 9: Cheat’s lasagne: Add macaroni to left over bolognese mince, put in a casserole dish, top with cheese sauce or a tub of crème fraiche, add some grated cheese and pop in the oven for 20 minutes. 10: Mackerel pate: Break up the mackerel fillet
a salad for tomorrow’s lunch; e.g. diced
with a fork, add a good dash of lemon juice
onion, cucumber, apple, tomato, dried
and about 1 oz/25g of cream cheese and
apricots, nuts or sultanas.
voila!
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Profits increase at Speyside whisky distiller The
company
that
distills
leading
News Bites...
Dram on our Doorstep
Speyside malt whisky The Macallan has powered to pre-tax profits of more than £100 million as volumes and margins grew strongly in key export markets. Turnover surged by 18% to £185.7m from £157.5m in a year that saw one of its malts, The Macallan 50 year old, savoured on screen by Daniel Craig and Dame Judi Dench in Skyfall, the latest James Bond movie. New accounts at Companies House show The Macallan Distillers transfer its £81.3m profit for the year after tax to reserves. Mr Morrison noted: "The directors regard the results for the year, and the company's
financial
position,
as
satisfactory and expect the growth and development of the business to continue in the forthcoming year." The accounts reveal that The Macallan Distillers employed 55 staff on average over the year, up from 54, with its members of staff engaged in distilling, blending and marketing Scotch whisky. The value of Scotch whisky stocks held by the company was booked at £167.6m, compared with £154.8m in 2012.
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Nestled amongst outstanding scenery and an unspoilt environment in the valley of Forgue near Huntly, the GlenDronach distillery is located within an area containing an abundance of visitor attractions, castles and gardens. Take a look around one of Scotland's oldest working distilleries and discover the history and traditions of single malt
whisky. From its home in the Scottish Highlands, The GlenDronach Distillery has been creating the finest richly sherried malts for nearly 200 years. When visiting the distillery, a truly memorable experience is guaranteed, as is the warmth of a real Highland welcome. Our well-informed tour guides unravel the mysteries of the whisky tradition and give a rare and inspiring insight into the personality and history of this unique distillery. The GlenDronach Distillery is on the threshold of Speyside, Scotland's world famous whisky region. Open 7 days, tours, which cost £5 and include a free dram, run daily between the hours of 10am and 4.30pm Monday Sunday. (Closed Saturday & Sunday October – April). Advanced booking required. Tel: (01466) 730202
Competition Winner!!! What an amazing response to our competition in the last edition of Savour. Many of you were keen to win a night’s dinner, bed and breakfast for two at the stunning Ballathie House Hotel on the banks of the river Tay….but there can only be one winner! Enjoy your stay Fiona Bruce from Buckie; you’re envied by many of our readers.
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“
”
Pleasant with Pheasant
The glorious game on offer at this time of Pinot Noir can be a great stepping stone for year provides a perfect opportunity to white wine drinkers looking for a red to complement it with one of my favourite red enjoy. grapes – the fickle yet alluring Pinot Noir. Around the world, check out wines from If you have already been seduced by its coastal influenced regions of New World subtle charms, then you will know what I countries such as Russian River Valley in mean. It’s sensitive to climate, preferring California, San Antonio and Casablanca cooler sites (too hot and it can become Valley in Chile and South Africa. jammy). In its Burgundy homeland, where conditions can vary greatly from year to Carol Brown is an Aberdeen-based member year, it’s the grape behind the label of wines of the Association of Wine Educators and such as Nuits St Georges and Gevrey the Circle of Wine Writers. She regulary Chambertin. More mature examples can be holds WES courses and workshops at the Atholl Hotel in Aberdeen. great alongside heartier venison dishes. It’s made a great impact in New Zealand. Try the lighter, less expensive styles from Marlborough with simply roasted pheasant or grouse and the fuller, intense styles from continental Central Otago with richer sauces. Pinot Noir works well with mushrooms and its cherry and red berry fruitiness naturally complements the berry fruit sauces that are often served with game. Its acidity cuts through the richness of duck.
For more information on this, other events, courses and corporate entertainment, visit www.wineuncorkededucation.co.uk or call Carol on (01224) 312076.
As it’s a thin-skinned variety (hence its pale colour), tannins are often soft so many a
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Scottish Whisky Fruit Cake Ingredients • 175g currants • 175g sultanas • 110g glacé cherries (rinsed, dried, cut into halves) • 75g mixed candied peel (finely chopped) • 3tbs whisky • 150g butter (room temperature) • 150g soft brown sugar • 3 eggs (size 1) • 225g plain flour • 1tsp baking powder • milk (if necessary) • 2 level tbs ground almonds • grated rind of 1 small orange • grated rind of 1 small lemon • 110g whole blanched almonds • 3½tbs single malt whisky (for feeding!) • 18cm square/20cm round cake tin, greased and lined with greaseproof paper
Method 1: The night before, mix fruit, peel and 3tbs whisky, cover and leave. 2: Pre-heat oven to gas mark 3, 325 F or 170 C. 3: Mix butter and sugar until light and fluffy, whisk in eggs slowly and fold in sifted flour and baking powder. Mixture needs to be a soft, dropping consistency. If too dry, add a tablespoon of milk. 4: Carefully fold in ground almonds, currants, sultanas, cherries, mixed peel, orange and lemon rinds. 5: Spoon mixture into cake tin, smooth out and arrange whole blanched almonds on top. 6: Place cake in centre of oven for 2-2½ hours. 7: Leave cake to cool in tin for 30 minutes. Finish cooling on wire rack. 8: To feed cake: weekly, make small holes in top and bottom of cake with darning needle and pour teaspoons of whisky through holes. 9: To store cake: wrap in double greaseproof paper and store in foil or airtight container till needed.
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Michelin-starred chef and restaurateur Raymond Blanc returned to BBC2 this summer with a new series, Raymond Blanc: How to Cook Well, which gave viewers a masterclass in basic cooking techniques. As one of the UK’s most successful chefs, Raymond’s many successes have culminated in the dreamlike Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons. He champions an ethical approach to cooking and is devoted to energy efficiency and recycling. Le Manoir is viewed by many in the hotel and restaurant industry as the model to aspire to. It was a privilege to meet with Raymond and chat about his passion for the industry and the ‘formidable Maman Blanc’.
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Q: You have held 2 Michelin stars for 29 years and Le Manoir Aux Quat’ Saisons has 5 AA stars and is hailed as the ultimate gastronomic destination in the country. Does that put you under enormous pressure to maintain such a high standard? A: I have always suspected that the pursuit of perfection is an endless task – but one worth striving for, and at Le Manoir, we always strive to reach that elusive dream! I am hugely proud of my team at Le Manoir. We work together always to create a sublime experience – and our accolades prove that this work has been successful. Does it put me under enormous pressure? I don’t think so. If you have always wanted to achieve perfection, climb the next step up towards that perfection – it becomes part of your daily life. You don’t feel the pressure – just the overwhelming desire to succeed! Q: How much did the formidable ‘Maman Blanc’ influence you as a young chef? A: Maman Blanc. Where do I begin? She cooks with intuition – I would call her a great cook, but not a chef. Also, I think it would be wrong of me to talk of Maman Blanc without talking about her maman also – my grandmother, Germaine. She also had amazing culinary talents which were respected throughout the region. She was known as La Mere Tournier - and she was a genius. She passed on this cooking DNA to Maman Blanc – who passed it on to me, the first male chef in the family. The kitchen was Maman Blanc’s domain, and I was at her beck and call. I never minded the chores as she was wonderful company and a good boss. My father would grow and harvest the fruit and vegetables or hunt and fish, and the fruits of his labour would be passed to Maman, who would transform them into wonderful dishes for five hungry kids. Everything found its way into Maman Blanc’s food chain – she was expert at making even the most unlikely ingredients work in a magical way. To this day, there are still Maman Blanc inspired recipes on our menus. She loves the whole world and the world loves her back. I don’t think she has one single enemy. That’s Maman Blanc. Q: What’s the one dish you adore and never tire of preparing? A: It would have to be something simple – and something that holds great memories for me. One of my favourites is a dessert. I do have a very sweet tooth and love to prepare îles flottantes (floating islands), made with poached meringue, real vanilla cream and topped with crunchy dark caramel. When it comes to the dessert of a last supper, îles flottantes will be mine, I hope and I’d be very happy to make it too! Q: You recently launched a new seafood range exclusively through Ocado. What was the inspiration behind this product launch? A: I have been a keen and active supporter of the MSC (Marine Stewardship Council)
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and the MCS (Marine Conservation Society) so it was hugely important for me to make sure that I didn’t compromise on anything when it came to creating the range. I am very passionate about driving the role of sustainability, authenticity, provenance and great tasting dishes. I have always known that Ocado share the same values as me so it was a perfect partnership. I am very proud of the dishes that I’ve created and my range uses ingredients such as roasted langoustine stock, responsibly-sourced Scottish haddock (from the oldest smoke house in Scotland) and Scottish salmon. I hope everyone enjoys trying them as much as I enjoyed creating them! Q: The Very Hungry Frenchman was a hugely entertaining and successful BBC2 series last year. Do you have any plans to repeat such a venture and when can we see you next on our television screens? A: Oh yes, I have many plans in the pipeline and I have often thought it would be good to have more adventures like I did in my home country of France, in other parts of the world. I can’t say any more about future plans and programmes at the moment, so watch this space! I very much enjoyed working on my new show – How to Cook Well on BBC2 – and hope it demystifies the whole process of cooking and creating great dishes without all the fuss. Q: As a bit of a novice would I feel out of place at the Raymond Blanc Cookery School or do you cater for all levels of ability? The Raymond Blanc Cookery School has something for everyone – so no, no, you would feel very welcome and at home there and not out of your depth at all! We have recently launched one that would suit you perfectly. It’s an evening course for four consecutive Wednesdays when you learn to cook up a storm with everything covered from knife skills and soup-making to fish, meat and dessert dishes. Once you’ve done that you’ll never look back! Q: What’s next for Raymond Blanc? A: I’m currently working on creating a heritage garden and reintroducing fruits and varieties that were forgotten for so long. The Orchard at Le Manoir will be a true sight to see and will be the culmination of years of planning, researching and dreaming.
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Advice aplenty at Aberdeenshire Larder Andrew Bain, third generation butcher premises on Broomiesburn Road, Ellon. explains: “Our business is based on three John Andrew reveals a little about the principles that are important to us: event, “We wanted to hold an informal heritage, quality and tradition” And he event where customers can taste our points out, “We still make our sausages to Christmas range, get different ideas for the same recipe that my grandfather used Christmas lunch and feel relaxed to ask in his butcher shop in Tarves and we’re the questions that they might think are immensely proud of that.” silly, but we hear all of the time. Like
Based in Ellon and only a short drive from The team at Aberdeenshire Larder what size of turkey should I order for 8 Aberdeen city, in the heart of the recognised that a lot of people came to people with enough for leftovers on Grampian countryside is Aberdeenshire them near Christmas with questions Boxing Day?’” He explains: “Christmas is a Larder. Offering a wide range of butchery about what they should be ordering, so special time of year and everyone wants meats, specially selected by their team of they’re holding a ‘Meet the Butcher’ to get Christmas lunch spot on – we want experienced butchers, the shop is open to Christmas event on Saturday 9th to help do that; whether you want turkey, the public Monday to Saturday. John November from 10am - 2pm at their beef, venison or a ‘bird in a bird’.”
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Wild Mushroom Tartlets Ingredients • 375g block all-butter puff pastry • flour, for dusting • 25g butter • 300g mixed wild mushrooms or just one type, cleaned and sliced • 25g parmesan (or vegetarian alternative), finely grated • small handful parsley leaves, chopped • 1 garlic clove, finely chopped • 1 egg, beaten
Method 1: Roll the pastry out on a floured surface and cut out 4 circles, about 15cm wide. Leave to chill on a lined baking tray in the fridge. 2: Heat oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Heat a large frying pan until hot, then add the butter and fry the mushrooms for 5 minutes until there is no liquid left in the pan. Season, then take off the heat and mix mushrooms with the parmesan, parsley and garlic. 3: Score a 1cm border around the edge of each tart, then spoon the mushrooms into the centre circle. Brush the edge with beaten egg, then bake the tarts for 20 mins until puffed up and golden. Serve immediately.
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Christmas with a Swing
If you’re the nominated ‘Christmas bash’ organiser this year, your problems are solved. Less than a two-minute walk from Union Street, housed in the flagship Gamola Golf store, is one of the town’s best eateries. The Locker Room, serving everything from breakfast, a burger at the bar or evening dinners are now taking bookings for Christmas parties….and what a menu!! A sumptuous five-course feast is on offer for a staggering £26.00 per person. There’s a great range of starters from
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watercress soup and lobster cakes to baked tomatoes stuffed with mozzarella and Scottish pudding bon-bons with a Glenmorangie sauce. Clear your palate with a refreshing Prosecco and strawberry sorbet before tackling the main course which, of course, includes the traditional roast turkey and all the trimmings.
vegetables. Leave a little room for
Alternatively, roast ribeye of beef, parmesan and herb panko-crusted haddock, venison medallions with black pudding and luxury nut and spinach roast are on offer, all served with seasonal
staff in this city centre eatery, making it
Christmas
pudding
with
Drambuie
custard or Ferrero Rocher tart, winter berry and Prosecco jelly or a selection of Scottish cheeses. To conclude there’s tasty petit fours to finish off a delicious meal. There’s a terrific atmosphere and great the ideal venue this Christmas, so get booking now. www.lockerroomaberdeen.co.uk
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Web of Success for Macbeth’s Local butchers’ shops have long played to their strengths by offering high levels of personal service and, of course, quality meat with provenance. But it is particularly encouraging to see ambitious operators adopting clever marketing strategies in order to attract new customers and build loyalty with existing ones. One butcher who is ticking all the boxes is Jock Gibson of Macbeth’s, an exciting Forres business that last year proved how clever marketing can help drive sales when his company won the prestigious Best Marketing Initiative, sponsored by Speyside Specialities, at the high-profile Highlands & Islands Food & Drink Awards. Jock, who runs Scotch Butchers Club member Macbeth’s with his parents Michael and Susan Gibson, and his wife, Fiona, is one of a new breed of butchers who believes that traditional businesses like butchers’ shops should embrace change – and technology – by looking at new ways of engaging with their customers.
In the case of Macbeth’s, its recently relaunched website is at the core of the marketing strategy that saw the firm lift the award last October. “Everyone in our business works exceptionally hard, so getting recognition for what we do day in, day out was fantastic, especially given the really tough competition in the category,” Jock points out. Since winning Best Marketing Initiative in 2012, Macbeth’s has experienced an uplift in sales. “Business has been good and there was a great buzz in the shop after we won the award,” he says. Has the recent horsemeat debacle led to a positive knock-on effect for Macbeth’s? “It’s difficult to quantify,” says Jock, “but you hear what people are saying in the shop and it’s gratifying for us because they tell us they trust us and the meat we are selling. We’ve certainly been busier and if the whole debate is encouraging people to shop locally then that can only be a good thing for businesses like ours.”
Jock’s parents, Michael and Susan, originally bought Macbeth’s in order to provide a direct outlet for the produce from their farm, Edinvale. The farm remains the main beef supplier to the shop although Macbeth’s also sources specialist meats from niche suppliers to meet customer demand. Jock supports Quality Meat Scotland marketing initiatives and was one of four Scotch Butchers Club members who provided demonstrations using Scotch Beef, Scotch Lamb and Specially Selected Pork products at last year’s BBC Good Food Show Scotland. Shortlisted finalists in this year’s Highlands & Islands Food & Drink Awards, sponsored by Gordon & MacPhail, will be announced in September and the winners will be revealed at the Awards Ceremony and Dinner in Inverness on 25th October. Further information at: www.hifoodanddrinkawards.com
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Tea-Infused Venison Ingredients For the tea-infused venison: • 1tbsp tea leaves • 1 orange, zest only • 4tbsp olive oil • 400g (13oz) venison fillet For the port jus: • 1tbsp olive oil • ½ shallot, chopped • 1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped • 50g (2oz) smoked streaky bacon, chopped • 1tbsp redcurrant jelly • ½ bottle ruby port • 1tbsp chopped fresh thyme leaves • ½ bottle red wine • 500ml (17fl oz) beef stock • few drops fresh lemon juice • 2tsp plain flour For the mash: • ½ medium butternut squash, parboiled for five minutes • 1tsp wholegrain mustard • 50ml (2fl oz) double cream • freshly ground black pepper • 30 mins to prepare and 50 mins to cook, 2 hrs to cool
Method 1: For the tea-infused venison, place the tea leaves in a pestle and mortar and grind to a dust. Add the orange zest and olive oil and stir. Rub the mix into the venison fillet, wrap in clingfilm and leave to marinate for 1-2 hours. 2: For the port jus, heat the olive oil in a pan, add chopped shallot, carrots and smoked bacon and fry over a gentle heat until golden brown. Add the redcurrant jelly, then deglaze the pan with the ruby port. Add the thyme and reduce until most of the liquid has evaporated. Skim residue from the sauce as you go. 3: Add the wine and reduce to the same point again. Pour in the beef stock and reduce by half, skimming any froth from the surface. Pass the sauce through a fine sieve and return to the pan. Season with freshly ground black pepper and add a few drops of lemon juice. The sauce should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. If not, add a little olive oil to the plain flour, mix into a thin paste, stir into the sauce with a whisk and boil again to thicken. Keep warm. 4: For the mash, put the squash, mustard and cream into a food processor, season with pepper and blend to a thick purée. 5: To cook the meat, preheat the oven to Gas 4, 180°C, fan 160°C. Remove clingfilm and wipe as many tea leaves off the meat as possible. Heat an ovenproof pan on a high heat, and sear the meat all over. Transfer to the hot oven and cook for 3-5 minutes or until springy to touch. Remove from the oven and rest for 10 minutes before slicing. 6: To serve, lightly steam some green beans, slice in half lengthways, arrange on the mash and top with the venison. Spoon over the port jus and scatter over some toasted almonds and pea shoots.
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Meilleurs plats de ce Noël using locally-sourced ingredients complemented by very fine wines and Champagnes.
The cosy, candlelit restaurant has ‘un ambience chaleureux’, a warm atmosphere and an equally warm welcome, always essential in these northern climes in the festive season.
This Christmas Montmartre Restaurant Français, the small, intimate French restaurant in Justice Mill Lane, Aberdeen, offers diners an experience of the very best in French-style cuisine. The Christmas menus have been prepared to give diners something a little more unusual than traditional fare, yet
Your welcome begins with ‘Vin Chaud’ (mulled wine) on arrival or, for those in search of a more decadent sparkle to their celebrations, begin with a Kir Royale to get you in the festive mood. Guests this Christmas are being offered classic French dishes with a modern twist from a range including hors d’oeuvre of ‘Coquille St Jacques en Croûte’ or a Duck Liver Parfait, served with a confit of dates
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and an orange reduction. Or, as a main course, why not try our traditionally prepared rolled and stuffed goose with accompaniments, finished with a pomegranate jus or ‘Filet de Boeuf en Croûte‘. For those diners in search of a different kind of Christmas celebration, we are launching the Montmartre Chalet Party menu for diners to enjoy, offering a chance to experience a less formal, more rustic menu. Delights on offer include ‘Fondue Savoyade Boeuf Bourguignon’ and crêpes served with orange liqueur. This offers some pre-ski fun from Monday until Wednesday: Lunch from 12.00-4.00; dinner from 6.00 until close.
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Tunnock’s Teacake Treats at Tesco Caramel Wafers. The range includes tea towels, aprons, mugs, coasters and bags.
Everyone loves a Tunnock’s Teacake: They’re synonymous with Scotland and shoppers can now get their hands on a brand new range of Tunnock’s gifting products in Tesco stores across Scotland. Exclusive to Tesco, the collection features two of Tunnock’s most popular products: their iconic Tunnock’s Teacakes and
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Ashley Connolly, local buying manager for Tesco in Scotland says: “We have worked with Tunnock’s for over 30 years now and we are delighted to be launching this unique new gifting range in our stores. Scots have a real affiliation with the Tunnock’s brand, people love the retro style packaging and I think that’s why the new range will be so popular with our customers.” With a history dating back to 1890, Tunnock’s has progressed from a local bakery to a national institution and the new gifting range is sure to be popular with Scots young and old.
Fergus Loudon, sales manager for Tunnock’s says: “Tunnock's biscuits and Tesco have been working very hard to put together an exciting new range. As well as Teacake tea towels, aprons and china mugs, there will be the ideal gift for the many Caramel Wafer fans - a Yard of Caramel Wafers. This range has never been available in a supermarket and we’re very excited to be working with Tesco on this project." The Tunnock’s gifting range will be available in selected Tesco stores across Scotland from September 2013. Prices range from £4 to £9, making these an affordable gift that family and friends will surely love just as much as their chocolate counterparts!
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How to tell how old an egg is You can cook perfect eggs every time, as long as you know how old they are! It can be tricky to tell how old a raw egg is while it is safely tucked away in its shell, but not completely so. Remember the air pocket? There is a simple test that tells you exactly how much air there is. All you do is place the egg in a tumbler of cold water: If it sinks to a completely horizontal position, it is very fresh; if it tilts up slightly or to a semi-horizontal position, it could be up to a week old; if it floats into a vertical position, then it is stale.
Method 1: For poaching and frying, always use eggs as spanking fresh as you possibly can. 2: For separating egg yolks from white, use eggs that are as fresh as possible, though up to a week old is fine. 3: For peeled hard boiled eggs, about a week old or up to a fortnight is okay. 4: For scrambled eggs and omelettes, the fresher the eggs the better, but up to two weeks is fine. 5: For baked dishes, such as quiches or for home baking and so on, eggs more than two weeks old can be used. 6: In my opinion, all eggs should be used within two weeks if at all possible. An extra week is okay, but three weeks is the maximum keeping time.
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It could be argued that Buckie doesn’t exactly spring to mind when you think of one of the country’s most talented and aspirational chefs. However, local lad Gordon Jones, born and bred in the Banffshire coastal town, is taking the culinary world by storm. Gordon attributes his cooking success to his mum Lucy’s fresh approach to food and his Scottish upbringing. “I grew up in Buckie,” says Gordon, “and money was tight. Everyone grew vegetables and cooked everything from scratch, but it wasn’t until I started writing menus and developing my own cooking style, I appreciated how much my upbringing had influenced my passion for food.” Gordon, who has now established his own restaurant Menu Gordon Jones in Bath to huge critical acclaim, still
has many friends in the area and many fond memories from when he was a teenager. “We used to go fishing a lot and drank a few bevvies in the park!” Gordon’s early cooking skills started when he used to observe his mum using the ingredients from their own garden in Buckie. He then had a job as a kitchen porter in a local Indian, where he was introduced to a whole world of new flavours, at the young age of 14. After finishing school, Gordon went to the Birmingham College of Food, followed by a stint working for Michelinstarred chef Martin Wishart in Edinburgh. He then worked for Michelin-starred Martin Blunos at Blinis in Bath for a year before moving to the Royal Crescent Hotel. After becoming the youngest chef of a five star Relais &
Chateaux hotel with two rosettes under his belt, Gordon moved on from his role as head chef of The Royal Crescent Hotel, Bath, to take charge of the Green Room Restaurant at the new Boutique Hotel - The Green House in Bournemouth. He gained an excellent reputation there, whilst continuing to pursue his dream of having his own restaurant in his spare time: "After seven years at the Royal Crescent, I felt the time was right to start running my own business and now finally I'm doing it!" Ever since his first experiences with cooking, he has been following his passion with food, which has led him to launch his own restaurant. Within a short time he has gained widespread recognition from both industry guides and experts and most importantly from his customers; Menu Gordon Jones is already fully booked every weekend until January 2014! Gordon was hoping to make a return visit to Buckie last year but his friend’s wedding coincided with his own when he married Armi in September. His Finnish bride is always there to keep Gordon in check and support him in his business. Although an accomplished cook herself, Armi never intervenes with Gordon’s creative flair when it comes to food. “He’s a genius in the kitchen. I should know as I get to eat his food every day!” says Armi.
Although Gordon strives to continuously improve his own cooking skills, he has now also taken it upon himself to teach others. Throughout his career he has been working with young people and believes that this can also be a way of engaging with teenagers to keep them out of trouble. “It’s like building a football team” Gordon says. “The skills are taught from a young age and they learn quickly.” Menu Gordon Jones has a successful track record in that so far, the current apprentice has been promoted to commis chef and Gordon is now looking to take on another young person to whom he can pass on his skills. Menu Gordon Jones is all about amazing food, with an element of surprise. All Chef's menus are seasonal, locally sourced and offer real value for money. The food will really tickle your taste buds and it’s all served by very friendly staff in a funky setting. Gordon concluded, "I am staying true to my roots and preparing fine dining without the expensive price tag. All I hope is that people will come with an open mind and enjoy the experience. I can guarantee they won't be disappointed." It’s quite a trip from Buckie to Bath, but if you happen to be in the area, a visit to Menu Gordon Jones is a must.
www.menugordonjones.co.uk
Work is progressing nicely on Aberdeen’s latest luxury hotel. The site of the former Simpson’s Hotel, a traditional granite building in Queen’s Road will, in January, unveil the glorious Chester Hotel and reveal its new sumptuous interior.
and its own private bar, this suite can be adapted to suit parties from 24 to 300 people – flexible, stylish and designed to meet your every need. Combined with impeccable service and state-of-the-art technology, it’s a beautiful place to do business.
Highly adaptable business suites, private dining and luxury accommodation to induce sleepfilled nights await!
atmosphere of the restaurant. The well-known Kevin Dalgleish, executive chef, and his kitchen brigade will help suggest delicious, bespoke menus for your private event. Whatever you choose, the dishes will be freshly made, using locally sourced, fresh ingredients.
The unique private dining areas will offer service which will be secondto-none. One private area will have exceptional views of the south of the city from your very own private balcony. The other is located in the heart of the restaurant offering private dining yet appreciating the
Each of the 63 bedrooms and suites will be sumptuous with every detail designed with your utmost comfort in mind. Luxurious beds, crisp Egyptian cotton sheets and rainfall showers help you relax and unwind after a busy day.
The Granite Suite is a versatile space, perfect for meetings, corporate events and weddings. With a discreet separate entrance
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Go Forth and Eat
Eva-May Romano shows off her culinary skills ahead of a bid to stage the world's biggest sit-down lunch against the backdrop of the Forth bridges. The two-year-old, from South Queensferry, joined in the celebrations as the Forth Bridges Festival's bid received ÂŁ25,000 from the Homecoming Scotland 2014 Food and Drink Fund. The lunch, to be held in both North and South Queensferry, is to take place on September 13 next year as part of a ten-day celebration as the road bridge turns 50.
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Issue 04 2013
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Keep Your Boss Sweet Workers who bring in sweet treats for their colleagues and bosses are likely to be trying to get ahead in the workplace, a new poll has found. Rather than experiencing a flush of generosity, a quarter of office bakers admitted that they were attempting to make friends in high places. It has long been a workplace tradition to bring in a cake on your birthday, but a quarter of those surveyed admit they now bring in a homemade sweet at least once a month, the Daily Mail reported. A fifth of people who find their culinary skills are not up to Mary Berry’s standards have brought in shop-bought cakes and attempted to pass them off as their own. However, one in ten were caught out by their colleagues. But it is not just the one slaving over the stove trying to get ahead, as those who get to eat the cake are more than happy to play along. Half of workers admit to having lied about someone else’s baking skills in an attempt to stay in their good books. A quarter of men and 15 per cent of women admitted that they had done so in order to advance their careers. But it is not just promotion which persuades workers to don the pinny, the survey of 2,000 people found. As the nation is in the grips of baking fever, one in ten of those over the age of 45 have admitted to baking cakes to try and find and charm a romantic partner. Kate Moore, baking expert for sugar brand Whitworths, who
carried out the survey, noted that some companies are now even holding baking competitions. She said: “By encouraging people to exchange recipes and cakes in this way, you can really bring a team together. It’s amazing what we can share over a cup of tea and slice of cake. “If you’re opting to climb the career ladder via cakes, what treats are the most likely to please? “Practicality is everything – although a triple-decker chocolate gâteau may look stunning in your kitchen, it may look somewhat less appetising after being crammed in a tin for your commute. “Fragile, crumbly cakes with fussy toppings are out. Instead, you want something robust yet attractive that can easily be divided with makeshift office cutlery (letter opener, anyone?) and won’t leave crumbs all over the desk. “Don’t go out of your way to show off (you don't want the cake to look like you've spent days slaving over it), and don't bring anything that has the potential to go off, like cream cheese frosting, if you don’t have a fridge available – giving someone an upset stomach won’t do you any favours. “Small, individual cakes like brownies are easy to share with colleagues, but be wary of lavishly-decorated cupcakes they're fun to make, but sadly a) may not give the impression of a serious, career-minded person and b) may be too sickly-sweet to tickle your boss's tastebuds.”
savour Issue 04 2013
44 From Ardoe House Hotel
Fillet of Black Bream
Cassoullet of Beans, Squash & Merguez Sausage Ingredients • 6 bream (gilt head or black) • 1 large cans of mixed beans • 6 Merguez sausages, cut up • 1 large tin of chopped tomatoes • 200g of bacon • 3 red onion, chopped • 1 bottle red wine • 3 cloves confit garlic • 1 tsp smoked paprika • Juice of 2 lemons to finish • 50/50 parsley and basil to finish • 2 spring onions garnish • 1 x celeriac fondant • Pea shoots (garnish)
Method 1: Heat a big frying pan, add a drop of oil and the bacon, garlic, paprika and stir till bacon is crispy. 2: Now add the sausage and brown a bit, followed by the onions for a minute or so before the beans, tomatoes and wine. 3: Gently stew the whole mix for about 30 minutes, and then refrigerate until required. 4: Pan fry the bream in a clean non-stick pan. Add fennel seed to the fish when frying and finish with a touch of lemon. 5: When serving the dish, add a touch of freshly squeezed lemon, the required seasoning and finish with the basil and parsley.
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Sticky Marmalade Pudding Ingredients • 3g coarse orange marmalade • 1 orange with skin, roughly chopped • 100g butter softened, • 100g light muscovado sugar • 2 medium eggs • 175g self-raising flour • ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda • 1 tsp ground ginger For the sauce: • 15g butter • 2 tbsp coarse orange marmalade • 100g unblanched hazelnuts, roughly chopped 2 tsp golden syrup
Method 1: Grease the base and sides of a 1.4 litre pudding basin, then line base with greaseproof paper. Spoon the marmalade into the base. 2: Discard any pips, put orange in a food processor, then process until finely chopped. Place in a bowl, and set aside. 3: Put the butter, sugar, eggs, flour, bicarbonate of soda and ginger in the food processor and process until smooth and creamy. Mix in the chopped orange. 4: Spoon the mixture into the prepared basin. Cover with a double thickness of greaseproof paper, securing with string. Tightly cover with foil. Put in a steamer over a pan of boiling water or rest on an upturned plate in a large pan, then pour boiling water around the basin to half fill the pan. Cover and steam for 2 hrs, topping up with water when necessary. 5: Meanwhile, make the sauce. Melt the butter in a small pan, add the marmalade, hazelnuts and syrup, then gently heat through for 2 minutes. 6: Remove the foil and paper and turn the pudding onto a serving plate. Spoon the sauce over the pudding and serve hot with clotted cream or crème fraîche.
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Issue 04 2013
Fish and chips are the undisputed national dish of Great Britain, becoming a cultural and culinary symbol of our country, instantly recognised as British the world over. The origins and development of the dish in the mid-19th century are closely associated with the industrial revolution and it has maintained huge popularity as the original affordable and nutritious takeaway ever since. Since the end of the Second World War, the food landscape in Great Britain has changed in many ways and although it’s unlikely the number of fish and chip shops will ever again reach the levels of 1920s and 1930s, the demand for the dish has remained the same. Today some 10,500 businesses provide the nation with a similar volume of fish and chips to those of the postwar years. Fish and chip shops have been around for a long time and, as a result, there are some pretty surprising facts about the fish and chip business!
• There are currently in the region of 10,500 specialist fish and chip shops in the UK. • These dramatically outnumber other fast food outlets: McDonalds has only 1,200 outlets, Kentucky Fried Chicken 350. • British consumers eat some 382 million portions of fish and chips every year. That's six servings for every man, woman and child. • 80% of people visit fish and chip shops at least once a year. • 22% of people visit fish and chip shops every week. • 56% of people buy fish and chips to eat in the home as a family meal.
Fish and chips provide a third of the recommended daily allowance of vitamins for a man and nearly half for a woman. An average portion of fish, chips and peas contains only 7.3% fat of which 2.8% is saturated fat. This compares with 10.8% fat in a pork pie and the 16.8 grams you will find in a tuna mayonnaise sandwich. The world's first fish and chip shop is believed to be Malin's, opened in 1860 on Old Ford Road, East London. They later moved to different sites in East London, with the business since closing down. *Federation of Fish Friers Research
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Corporate Meeting and Dining
Business meetings don’t necessarily mean cold, stark rooms as Aberdeen’s premier French restaurant is eager to point out. As secluded and discreet as Restaurant Montmartre itself, upstairs there is a delightful meeting room which can be booked for either small meetings or private dining. The room is designed and decorated to reflect the ambience of 19th-century Paris, yet has all the equipment for a modern-day meeting, including ample facilities for laptop, internet connection, a 46'' screen and flipchart. The facility seats a maximum of 14 delegates. The room is also available as a private dining room where companies can entertain clients in privacy. Flexible packages, including lunch and refreshment options are available from working lunches to á la carte dining. www.cafe-montmartre.co.uk
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Issue 04 2013
News Bites... Scotland’s Top Chef Joins Caviar Club
Top Scottish chef David Littlewood has been inducted into an international gourmet club after it celebrated its 25th anniversary at the award-winning hotel, where he works.
Kern from the World Association of Chefs’ Societies (WACS) and Rudolf Muller, vice-president of Cordon Noir and executive chef at the Disneyland Resort in Hong Kong.
The Cordon Noir took over Raemoir House Hotel at Banchory on Royal Deeside for a week. It has members from 11 countries, was first set up in Beijing and one of its rules is that every dinner must include caviar on the menu.
"It’s a real honour for me to be inducted into Cordon Noir and I was delighted to showcase Scottish seafood to members during the week they were at Raemoir," said David, who won the award for Top Chef at this year’s ScotHot, Scotland’s biggest catering and hospitality show.
To mark the event, the Scottish Seafood Collaborative Group, which is running an emerging markets project across Asia, sponsored a seafood canapé reception at Raemoir which won the title of Country House Hotel of the Year in the Scottish Hotel Awards in both 2011 and 2012. Guests included club founder Jochen
Graham Young, head of Seafood Scotland, added: "We were pleased to welcome Cordon Noir members to Scotland, strengthen ties among several continents and encourage greater use of Scottish seafood around the world."
Fizzing partnership makes for success at the Fringe
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News Bites Contenders for the titles of the world’s best jams were given a rousing VIP reception when they were checked in to one of Scotland’s top country house hotels. Entries for the 2013 World Jampionships were played in by Blairgowrie and Rattray Pipe Band and carried by members of a local youth group when they arrived at Ballathie House Hotel at Kinclaven on the banks of the River Tay in Perthshire to await judging. They were stored securely in the hotel’s wine cellar alongside vintages costing up to several hundred pounds each. They were then taken to nearby Scone Palace, one of Scotland’s grandest stately homes, where they were judged.
An Aberdeenshire farm store teamed up with an exclusive champagne restaurant and bar as part of Edinburgh’s annual Fringe Festival. The Store in Foveran, near Ellon, supplied the Pommery Champagne Café Bar, located in the capital’s historic Signet Library, with award-winning Aberdeen Angus ground beef to make their burgers for guests to enjoy alongside their champagne. The champagne restaurant, which ran throughout the month of August while the festival took place, was a sell-out and is always a major talking point of the annual event, offering the finest fizz and delicious food in one of Edinburgh’s most impressive buildings. The Store’s meat for the burgers, which was a new addition to the menu, proved to be a favourite with customers, often selling more than the lobster. Launched in 2000, The Store has a passion for high quality, local produce and prides itself on creating beef that is tastier and natural
by rearing the Aberdeen Angus cattle on a grass-based diet all year round. Mr Booth said: “We are really happy that our meat went down well with festivalgoers and I was proud to see The Store produce showcasing in the capital city. We always strive to offer our customers only the best quality produce and it is a good opportunity to highlight the quality of Scottish produce to visitors from across the world attending the festival.” Ian D’Annunzio Green, executive director of Heritage Portfolio, which manages the Pommery Champagne Café Bar, comments: “The burgers have been a popular new addition to our cafe bar this year. We find good quality beef goes really well with either a glass of vintage Pommery or with one of our artisan beers. They are particularly in high demand with the male visitors – the Scottish Rugby Team visited recently and really enjoyed them!”
“We gave these jams the same care and attention we lavish on our rapidly growing number of fine wines,” said Ballathie General Manager Jody Marshall, who received the entries. “After all, several of them are soon going to be world beaters!” Among the entries piped in were jams from Perth and Kinross Lord Lieutenant Brigadier Melville S Jameson, Blairgowrie’s twin band in Germany, and the City Council of Aschaffenburg, Perth’s twin town in Bavaria. Preserves were also received from as far away as Canada and the Far East. The World Jampionships were launched in 2011 to celebrate the local area’s global reputation for growing top quality soft fruits. Categories include those for East Perthshire’s top three fruit exports raspberries, strawberries and blackcurrants. Several hundred entries were exhibited. (The winners have not been announced at the time of going to press).
savour Issue 04 2013
Ballathie is a grandiose four-star, 53 bedroom mansion set on a 1,300 acre working farm. It has won a host of awards including best Scottish country house and country sports hotel. In 2010 it was voted Scotland’s Best Rural Restaurant (it has 2 AA Rosettes) and in 2011 and again in 2012 was named Scotland’s Best Country Weddings Venue. Its head chef is Scott Scorer, previously at Gleneagles. Gourmet and wine tasting events are held regularly throughout the year. The General
Manager is Jody Marshall, previously in charge of the Summer Isles Hotel at Achiltibuie in Wester Ross and voted Scotland’s Rising Star Hotelier in 2013. The tradition of afternoon tea lives on in the comfort of the elegant Drawing Room where delicate sandwiches, freshly baked scones and tempting cakes are served. Service then and at lunch or dinner is personalised yet unobtrusive and definitely not stuffy.
From the outside it looks like a small block of flats, but according to reviewers for the world’s biggest online travel agency it’s the best hotel in Britain. The Knight Residence serviced apartments near Edinburgh Castle were ranked at no. 9 in the world and took the top spot in the UK in Expedia’s 2013 Global Insider Select list of 650 hotels, drawn up after a study of half a million independent guest reviews. Others in the top 10 are located in Mexico, Costa Rica, Slovakia, France and India. Apart-hotels are finding increasing favour among guests who want more room to spread out and appreciate a real home-from-home, whether travelling for leisure or business. The Knight Residence, situated in Lauriston Street, has 28 one, two and three bedroom apartments. These offer more space and facilities
than even top-of-the-range rooms in a conventional hotel. It has consistently won awards for customer service and last year was voted Scotland’s best employer in the hospitality industry. It is self-catering (although a pack of daily essentials, including breakfast, is supplied) so does not have its own restaurant but many guests enjoy doing their own cooking in the fully-equipped kitchen. This has an oven, hob, fridge with generous freezer compartment, microwave, kettle, toaster, combined washing machine and tumble dryer, dishwasher and a full complement of cooking and dining utensils. If residents don’t fancy full self-catering, there are plenty of restaurants within easy walking distance, including in Edinburgh’s vibrant Grassmarket.
One of the most critically acclaimed new restaurants in the capital is Field (www.fieldrestaurant.co.uk), opened in January by Richard Conway and Gordon Craig of Edinburgh’s then Michelin-starred Plumed Horse. It has received a succession of rave reviews with critics’ comments including “a contender for eating-out bargain of the year” and ”assured, deft and feistily flavoured cooking”. Field is a small (22 covers) restaurant on the capital’s Southside, close to major bus routes and a short 5 minute taxi hop from the city centre. Before moving back to Edinburgh, chef Craig worked at the Roux family’s three-Michelin star Waterside Inn at Bray in Berkshire. “We’re following the Michelin quality concept but without any pretentiousness and concentrating on providing great value for
money,” said Conway whose background also includes managing the Wee Restaurant at North Queensferry outside Edinburgh and who is assisted by wife Rachel at front-of-house. “Field will serve the food I like to eat myself,” added Craig who spent time training at Andrew Fairlie’s two Michelin-starred restaurant at Gleneagles Hotel and Champignon Sauvage restaurant in Cheltenham. “It’s similar to the food I’ve helped create at Michelin-starred restaurants, simplified for a small bistro and with some playful elements added.” The restaurant also showcases “world class wines at prices which shame Edinburgh’s top-end establishments,” Conway said. Field is open for lunch and dinner from Tuesdays to Saturdays.
The Atholl Arms Hotel is an historic (built 1833), 17bedroom hotel overlooking the Tay beside Dunkeld’s picturesque Telford’s Bridge. Princess (later Queen) Victoria dined there on one of her many visits to Balmoral Castle. Its RiverView restaurant specialises in slow cooking methods to retain the ingredients’ flavour and goodness. The hotel’s more informal Bistro infuses classic with modern dishes with a menu including its renowned burgers; celeriac, fennel and apple salad; Dunkeld smoked salmon; Cullen Skink; antipasti; haggis, neeps and tatties; charcuterie; fresh soup; plenty of sandwich choices and a children's menu. The Atholl also specialises in vegetarian and vegan dishes. On the first Thursday of the month it offers a relaxed £28, four or five course tasting
menu based on seasonal dishes and often has a speaker from a supplier. Dunkeld is at the gateway to the Scottish Highlands, one of Scotland’s most popular tourist destinations, and is perfectly situated for outdoor activities including walking, canoeing, cycling, fishing, birdwatching, shooting and golf. Two additional reasons to visit Highland Perthshire this Autumn are The Enchanted Forest - billed as Scotland’s premier sound and light show - at Faskally Wood near Pitlochry from 4-27 October, and Dougie MacLean’s Perthshire Amber folk festival from 25 October to 3 November. Venues range from Perth Concert Hall to town halls and tiny village halls, and from atmospheric castles to Dunkeld Cathedral and an iron age Crannog on Loch Tay.
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Fancy a bit of Brazilian atmosphere with a steak to match? Tropeiro in Golden Square (South Silver Street) certainly won’t disappoint. Try a top sirloin steak (Contrafilé) prepared to perfect tenderness or Mamina, a top blade steak full of flavour and grilled to perfection. This place is ideal for meat lovers but wait until you get home before your indulge in the samba! Just off Union Street, snuggling into Crown Terrace, is the charming Prime Cuts restaurant. Chef Matt Ingham works his magic here and the choice of steaks is superb. Massive Tbones, rump tournedos, Prime centre cut fillet, a choice of ribeye and Chateaubriand are all on offer and most can be cut to the size you require. There’s a great wine list to complement your choice too. It’s worth the short run to Balmedie to visit the Scottish Gastropub of the year 2012 and 2013. The well-known Cock and Bull on the Ellon Road is one of my favourite venues. Chargrilled Foveran sirloin and rib-eye are cooked to your preference, accompanied by your choice of sauce, hand-cut chips, field mushrooms and onion rings. Makes my mouth water just reading the menu! Mi Amore, the quality Italian in Huntly Street, was a great find. The prime fillet steak with a choice of five delicious sauces included in the very reasonable £24.95 price, is a must. Try the Griglia, Diane, Porcini, Pepe or Pomodore - all amazing and served in a relaxed atmosphere. The Brasserie in the Malmaison in Aberdeen’s Queens Road requires no introduction but you may not be aware of the Josper Grill. It’s a closed charcoal barbecue oven designed to give your meat a unique texture, juiciness and smoky taste. I love the fillet steak but the rib-eye is to die for!
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Issue 04 2013
Throw open our regal doors and prepare yourself for a friendly, hearty Scottish welcome. Relaunching soon the contemporary Blairs Restaurant. Set in 30 acres of beautiful countryside, there is no better setting to enjoy the very best of seasonal ingredients Scotland’s larder has to offer than Blairs at Ardoe House. Ardoe House Hotel-Where traditional Scottish hospitality and luxury are standard
Contact us to book your table on +44(0)1224 860 600 or email h6626-re@accor.com www.mercure.com
Ardoe House Hotel and Spa
@Ardoe House