Savour Calgary - Spring 2022 by savourcalgary

E ARLY SPRING 2022

FRESH. LOCAL. STORIES FOR FOOD LOVERS.

HOLY-DAY TABLES

A CRASH COURSE IN CHEESE

BLACK-PEPPER BRIE MASTER CLASS

MEET THE CHEESE PRODUCERS

GATHER

AROUND COMPACT PERFECTION

GATHER AROUND SOLIS BARISTA PERFETTA

Tiramisu Shake 1 oz Monin Tiramisu Syrup 1 shot espresso 3 scoops chocolate ice cream or sorbet 2 oz milk Pour ingredients into a blender. Cover with ice cubes. Blend until smooth. Pour into 16 oz glass and garnish with whipped cream, Monin chocolate drizzle and cocoa powder. Try your new PERFETTA out with this Monin Syrup recipe. Or drop in to discover the over 100 additional flavours we stock.

Built for the home espresso journey, the Perfetta offers an affordable starting point for new baristas without sacrificing the tools more experienced enthusiasts need. You get labor-saving niceties like programmable shot times, auto-purge cleaning, and optional pressurized baskets for pre-ground coffee or pods — alongside features like a single hole manual steam wand, and easy access to hot water for tea or Americanos. Visit our website for store hours or to reserve one for yourself.

WE SELL, SERVICE & SUPPLY EVERYTHING FOR HOME OR COMMERCIAL COFFEE EXPERIENCES. WE CARRY AND SERVICE:

403.277.5169

LET US SUPPLY YOU WITH:

410 23 AVENUE NE, CALGARY

CAPPUCCINOKING.COM

Welcome | F R O M T H E E D I T O R

Contents 18

everal years ago, I decided to try eating vegan. Yes, my friends looked at me like that, too. But it was actually pretty great. We got to try lots of new things – some of which we still enjoy post-veganism. I got very good at, “No thank you, I’m vegan.” Burger? “I’ll take mine with veggie patty, please.” Bacon and eggs? “l’ll have granola and oat milk, thanks.” But after a few months, there was one thing I just couldn’t resist any longer. And that thing was cheese. My vegan adventure was foiled by fromage! I could go on about the virtues of cheese for days, but I don’t need to. You already know it’s pretty much the best food on the planet, so we’re going to spend this issue celebrating it!

We learn how to make a black-pepper Brie in our kitchen with “Master Class,” we take a crash course on our turophilic tendencies with Tanya Schaap, we sit down with Nancy Brown, proprietor of Say Cheese Fromagerie in “In My Kitchen” and we meet some local cheese producers with Savour newcomer Ruth Richert. It's not all culture and crystals, though. We celebrate the holy days of spring with Shelley Boettcher serving up Ramadan, Passover and Easter food traditions in “Come Together: Holy-day Tables.” We munch on some celery with Ellen Kelly’s “Fresh Market,” and pop in for some Hungarian chimney cakes and chicken and waffles with Grace Wang’s “Market Report.” Wanda Baker does sneak some curds into her “Shop Local” column and I try my hand at “Funny Bones” with “Ten Foods That are Actually Just Vehicles for Cheese.” Sorry Ellen, celery is included. I’m not going to lie –a lot of cheesy puns lurk in the following pages, but I won’t apologize either. Like cheese, groan-inducing wordplay is a guilty pleasure I’m never ashamed to indulge. And on that note, we’ll make a Brie-line for the cheese platter and Swiss you the best for a grate spring. Happy eating!

Savour Calgary tells the food stories that happen at Mohkínstsis, located in the traditional territories of the Niitsitapi and the people of the Treaty 7 region and the Métis Nation of Alberta, Region 3. We acknowledge the indigenous people of this area as keepers of the land and water that make these stories possible and thank them for their hospitality and stewardship of this place.

2022 ISSUE SCHEDULE

Camie Leard, Editor camie@savourcalgary.ca

Watch for Savour Calgary on newsstands throughout 2022. Late Spring | May 11 Summer | July 13 Harvest | Sept 14 Holiday | Nov 16

SAVOURCALGARY.ca

Features 16 Cheese: A Crash Course 18 Holy-day Tables 20 Meet the Cheese Producers

The Regulars 5 9 10 14 22 23 26 30

Savour Selects Fresh Market In My Kitchen Shop Local Market Report Master Class Quick Bites Funny Bones

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PUBLISHER

Debbie Lambert debbie@savourcalgary.ca EDITOR

Camie Leard camie@savourcalgary.ca D I G I TA L E D I T O R

Wanda Baker wanda@savourcalgary.ca MAGAZINE DESIGN

Cheryl Starr Design Group stellardesign.ca COVER

This delectable delight is the French onion soup at Yellow Door Bistro made extra cheesy for talented photographer Stephen Burchill of Burchill Photo. CONTRIBUTORS

A real good egg. Spring for the good stuff: delightful chocolate confections handcrafted with simple ingredients, no artificial preservatives, and delicious couverture chocolate made with certified sustainable and fair trade cocoa and cocoa butter.

Wanda Baker Shelley Boettcher Ellen Kelly Mitch Kern Tanya Schaap Roland Schmidt-Bellach Grace Wang

ADVERTISING SALES

Ellen Kelly ellen@savourcalgary.ca Martin Robillard martin@savourcalgary.ca WEBSITE TECHNICAL ADVISOR

Todd Robertson web@savourcalgary.ca DISTRIBUTION

James Norman distribution@savourcalgary.ca PRINTING

CentralWeb Savour Calgary is a bi-monthly magazine published by Savour Calgary Ltd. Savour Calgary is published six times per year. Winter, Early Spring, Late Spring, Summer, Fall, Holiday C O N TAC T I N FO RM AT I O N

403.475.5809 info@savourcalgary.ca P O S T M A I L : c/o 153 Somercrest Circle S.W., Calgary, AB T2Y3H1 PHONE:

EMAIL:

SHOP IN PERSON: Dalhousie Station • Victoria Park • Bankers Hall • Signal Hill • Southcentre

FO R M O RE I N FO RM AT I O N S E E U S AT

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CURBSIDE PICKUP: Cococo Chocolate Factory in Mayland Heights SHOP ONLINE: www.CococoChocolatiers.com FREE SHIPPING ON ORDERS OVER $60 — use code ChocoFree60 at checkout.

Make it with Chocolate! Easy, delicious chocolate recipes at www.CococoChocolatiers.com/recipes chocolate together

@Cococo_Chocolates

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@CococoChocolates

FO R E D I T O RI A L I N Q U I RI E S C O N TAC T

camie@savourcalgary.ca

Savour Calgary has made all efforts to ensure that content in the magazine is accurate on the date of publication. The views expressed in the articles reflect the author(s) opinions and do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher or editor. The published material, advertisements, editorials and photographs along with all other content is published in good faith and Savour Calgary cannot guarantee and accepts no liability for any loss or damage of any kind caused by any errors, omissions and for the accuracy of claims made by the advertisers or any other contributors. All trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner and Savour Calgary will be held harmless in the event that the advertiser or contributor has submitted trademarks for which they do not have authorization from the owner. All rights reserved by Savour Calgary and nothing can be partially or in whole be reprinted or reproduced without the written consent of the publisher at Savour Calgary Ltd.

T O P P I C K S f rom Savour staf f | S A V O U R S E L E C T S

Wanda Baker

Photo provided

Savour selects

Pixie's candy shop

A SWEET SCOOP Pixie’s Candy Parlour is an old-fashioned candy parlour located in The District at North Deerfoot. Launched in 2013, this family-owned business found success in one of the farmers’ markets and relocated to a bricks and mortar location a few years later. Owner Jackie Ruhl channels her inner child by offering a unique selection of sweets from around the world in her boutique-style candy shop. Besides the fun selection of treats, they have a fully operational 1950’s soda fountain bar, one of only a few in Canada. We can’t resist stopping in for an old-fashioned soda or ice cream float. Gift ideas include subscription boxes, gift boxes, Easter baskets and candy buffets. Pixie’s Candy Parlour | 207, 11135 14th St. N.E. 403.567.0109 | pixiescandy.com

CELEBRATE MALBEC Malbec World Day is a global initiative created by Wines of Argentina celebrated every year on April 17th. Willow Park Wines & Spirits is celebrating throughout the month of April with in-store displays, deals and a special selection of featured Argentinean wines. While malbec is Argentina’s signature red varietal producing nearly 70 per cent of the malbec vineyards in the world, their winemakers are also passionate about crafting fresh and food-friendly rosés. A diverse climate, high-altitude vinyards and a wine culture dedicated to excellence is what makes Argentinean malbecs a reliable and popular red wine. Willow Park Wines & Spirits | 10801 Bonaventure Dr. S.E. 403.296.1640 | willowpark.net

MEXICO IN YOUR KITCHEN Thirteen years ago, Salsita, a boutique food market opened specializing in Mexican cuisine. Originally from Guyana and Venezuela, owner Jean Williams started as an employee and bought the market when opportunity knocked… and brought food. Jean and her team make everything fresh in-house with products available for pick-up to be reheated at home or enjoyed as is. Some of the delicious items available in store include birria, al pastor tacos, enchiladas, soups, burritos, empanadas, tres-leches cake, lime tarts, tamales and Mexican wedding cookies. While we change our minds regularly, our current favourite is the selection of dried chiles, fresh guacamole and pico de gallo. Photo provided

Salsita Mexican Food Market 777 Northmount Dr. N.W. | 403.289.2202 | salsita.ca

Salsita tacos

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Camie Leard

Photo provided

THANKS MOM!

THE STARS ALIGNED

Starr Distilling Co. charcuterie board

Mike Stanfield bought Halifax-based Starr Manufacturing, a business operating since 1861 and known for inventing the modern ice skate, from his father. He imagined a new path for the business and together with his wife Lee, opened Starr Distilling Co., which has been making Summer Love Vodka since 2016. Last year, an opportunity to expand came along and the Stanfield’s bought the Burwood Distillery building, moving in and sharing space until Burwood is ready to relocate to their new digs in Currie Barracks. Chef Kyrin Wollen formerly of Rouge Restaurant, The Wednesday Room and Boxwood Café designed Starr’s menu bringing flair and creativity that aligns with the current selection of cocktails. Now that they’ve found their forever home, future plans include seasonal gins, coffee creams, liqueurs and whiskey. In February, they launched a limited batch of chocolate liqueur made from oven-roasted cacao and we can confirm, it’s fabulous. Starr Distilling Co. | 4127 6th St. N.E. | 403.971.7600 | starrdistilling.com

Chef Mike Pigot (Craft, La Mano, Pigot’s Burger Club) and business partner James Martin launched a hot new spot in Victoria Park in January. An homage to their moms, Pat & Betty’s menu rounds up European-inspired food with a Canadian touch and elevates it to a collection of dishes dedicated to indulgence, flavour and the comfortable feeling of home. A creative cocktail menu and robust wine list accompany the menu and support a lounge vibe to the dining room which took over the former Habitat nightclub space. We learned how good a green salad can be by starting with P&B’s greens. The butter lettuce, mixed greens and green goddess dressing make a delicious beginning to your meal, but the real star of this dish is the chewy, buttery, garlicky brioche crouton, which we’re still thinking about weeks later. We loved the mussels, and gorged on the bone-in pork chop, which is brined for 48 hours and served with caramelized honey butter, roasted pear and zippy pickled chilies. The three-ounce Marty cocktail blends Four Roses bourbon, Aperol and sweet vermouth for a surprisingly smooth and delicious sipper enjoyed over a leisurely dinner served by warm and knowledgeable staff who are enthusiastic to the point of being effusive about the food. We finished with the P&B carrot cake and had lots to take home with us to enjoy later. Pat & Betty | 1217 1st St. S.W. | 403.453.7690 | patandbetty.com

Soulful recipes inspired by our families straight from the heart of old Italy and made in-house daily.

Our famous sausages are only one part of our story. Check out Spolumbo’s for stress-free office, event and home catering. Our in-house deli and ready-to-eat take-home meals are just waiting for you! Visit us in Inglewood at 1308 9 Avenue SE | spolumbos.com

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Camie Leard

T O P P I C K S f rom Savour staf f | S A V O U R S E L E C T S

MULTO BENE! We got such a treat in February as Chef Trevor Jerram from a start-up pastadelivery service Pasta Fresca made contact inviting us to try his “assembleat-home” pasta kits delivered fresh every Thursday. Born and raised in Calgary, Jerram graduated from SAIT’s culinary program before heading overseas to hone his craft. Now back in Calgary, he’s taken his passion for pasta and created restaurant-quality kits with fresh-made pasta and delicious, seasonal sauces. We tried the cavatelli with crumbled fennel sausage, cavela niro Pasta Fresca's rigatoni (Italian kale), white wine, black pepper butter Bolognese kit which absolutely delighted. The difference fresh pasta makes is immeasurable and it was cooked and on our plates in under 15 minutes. We also had the rigatoni with slow-braised beef shin and red wine ragu, rosemary and parmesan – another hit. Pasta Fresca delivers to all Calgary postal codes every Thursday from 11:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Cut-off for orders is Tuesday at midnight and delivery is free for orders $25 and over.* Pasta Fresca | 140, 7920 42nd St. S.E. | 587.830.0815 | pastafrescayyc.com

Mom

FOR

KENSINGTON : 1081 2ND AVENUE NW | 403.287.8544 SPRUCE CLIFF / WILDWOOD : 8 SPRUCE CENTER SW | 403.452.3960 MAHOGANY : 2171 MAHOGANY BLVD SE | 587.623.1144 CROWFOOT CROSSING : 826 CROWFOOT CRESCENT NW | 403.241.3475

@piejunkieyyc | piejunkie.ca

CATCH THE WAVE

Camie Leard

Surfy Surfy Bar, Concorde Group’s latest outing, set up shop in a totally tubular space in Chinook Mall. Located on the main floor beneath Double Zero, this sunny space is perfect for a signature margarita and lunch of SoCal fare with a Korean twist. We very much enjoyed the tuna ceviche to start, which was fresh, creamy and offered just a hint of heat with the togarashi mayo. Worth mentioning are the tortilla chips, which manage to find that perfect crisp. We’re told balls of tortilla dough are delivered to the restaurant then pressed in-house before they’re thrown on the flat top for some extra bubbles and browning. We loved the al pastor taco and the chicken gringas – a take on a quesadilla with gochugaru (Korean red chili) and a zippy citrus agave dip.* Surfy Surfy Bar 6455 Macleod Tr. S.W. 403.863.7356 surfysurfybar.com

The delicious potato churros at Surfy Surfy Bar with the rich and decadent chocolate marquise in the background.

*Hosted our meal, but did not approve the story

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Photo provided

HIDDEN GEM: CALAN BEEF NOODLE When Calan Beef Noodle founder David Liu, arrived in Calgary as an international student from China, there were no hand-pulled noodle eateries to be found. This famous Chinese street food originated in 1915 in Lanzhou, China and is a soup dish he grew up with. Liu fell in love with Calgary but missed the noodle soups prompting a return to his home town to learn the art of noodle pulling from a professional chef. Once back in Calgary, he opened Calan Beef Noodle on Centre St. N., and due to its popularity, a second location downtown. The team brings in spices directly from Lanzhou providing an authentic tasting beef soup. They are open seven days a week and have franchises available. Calan Beef Noodle | 2219 Centre St. N. 587.350.0050 | calanbeefnoodle.ca Calan Beef Noodle | 109, 683 10th St. S.W. 587.351.6633 | calanbeefnoodle.ca

Calan beef noodle soup

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W H A T ’ S F R E S H this season | F R E S H M A R K E T

Celery & celery root (celeriac) B y E L L E N K E L LY | I l l u s t ra t i on b y A L I S ON M A RT I N Celery gets an undeservedly bad rap. David Lebovitz has said, rather harshly, I think, that ‘it’s like eating green water held together with a lot of fibres.’ It’s either considered a sad dietary punishment or merely a vehicle for peanut butter or cream cheese (sprinkle with raisins and you have that questionable childhood standard Ants on a Log.) It’s rarely the main event, the star of the show, but that can’t take away its intrinsic culinary value. What would a mirepoix or sofrito be without its sweet earthy flavour contributing to the whole? A stock, stew or braise without celery? Unthinkable. Unsurprisingly related to other “aromatics” – carrots and parsley specifically – celery, no less than onions and garlic, is a true kitchen workhorse. I always have celery on hand. Its usefulness goes beyond stock or stew. Forget the riotous carnival cluster of everything from sausages to French fries – a graceful leafy inner stalk of celery, a wedge of lime and a celery-salted rim are the quintessential garnishes for the perfect Bloody Mary or Bloody Caesar. Nothing provides that bright crunch in a couscous or bulgar salad like celery, and sometimes a particularly crunchy sweet stalk is just the thing to keep one away from those leftover Christmas cookies… at least for a while. When purchasing celery, look for bunches with sturdy upright stalks without bruising or blemishes. The leaves should be crisp and bright and, of course, always use the very flavourful leaves in whatever you’re preparing; it’s a cardinal kitchen sin to throw them out. Levels of calcium, potassium and vitamin C are highest in the leaves. At the very least, they should go into the pending stock bucket in the freezer. Try not to prep celery too far in advance of using, chopped celery loses nutrients rapidly. A favourite winter salad, especially if the celery is sweet, is a cabbage and celery slaw with an Asian twist. Finely cut a good quantity of white and red cabbage and toss into a large bowl. Cut plenty of celery stalks on the diagonal (to get longer slices) and add to cabbage with julienned carrots and red bell pepper, 3-4 sliced shallots and 1 minced garlic clove. Toss well with a dressing of lime juice, peanut oil, soy sauce, a few drops of sesame oil, a dash each of Tabasco and Worcestershire, grated fresh ginger, honey, and freshly ground black pepper. Add a protein in the form of cooked chicken, salmon or shrimp, sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds and garnish with fresh cilantro sprigs. Dinner is served.

With a little simple preparation, this ungainly vegetable will easily become a favourite. The size of a softball is ideal. Choose celeriac that is heavy in the hand and relatively smooth with few rootlets and no soft spots or obvious blemishes. The leaves, if there are any, should be fresh and green. To peel, which you must, slice top and bottom, placing the ball, flat end down, on the cutting board. Drawing your knife down from top to bottom, peel away the exterior until you are left with a white-ish round. Celeriac, like raw potato, will discolour when exposed to air, so have a bowl of acidulated water nearby to immerse the pieces in. The next time you make mashed potatoes, try this. Start with 4-5 medium potatoes (peeled or not, as you prefer) cut into pieces and put into plenty of well-salted boiling water. Add 2-3 whole, peeled garlic cloves and half a celery root, cut into chunks slightly larger than the potatoes. Cook until potato, garlic and celeriac are soft, easily pierced with a knife, but not disintegrating. Drain, reserving the flavourful liquid for stock, and return to the pot. Over low heat, add whole milk, butter and sour cream or crème fraiche and mash. Season with salt, pepper, and a grating of nutmeg. A classic preparation for celery root is a remoulade, a kind of gallic slaw. It’s lovely served with chilled poached shrimp or fish. With a bowl of ice water and lemon juice at hand, proceed to peel and julienne a whole celery root. Let the matchstick-sized pieces stay in the ice water for a few minutes to get good and crisp. Drain and dry well with paper towels. Toss with a dressing made with mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, lemon juice, white balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper, and plenty of chopped fresh herbs. Tarragon is typical, but parsley, chives, or dill, alone or together, work wonderfully too. Chill well before serving. And just in case you’re still thinking that celery isn’t exactly the sexiest of vegetables, consider this: Celery contains androsterone, which, according to some researchers, acts as a pheromone. Giacomo Casanova was said to have eaten celery to maintain his, well, amorous endeavours. Calypso was even thought to have kept Odysseus busy for five years with the help of a celery-centric diet. Whether credible or not, what’s the harm? After all, it’s only celery.

Now we come to celeriac or celery root. Less known than the ubiquitous celery, it’s easy to pass by in a supermarket or farmers’ market. At its best, it’s still an unattractive lumpy sphere, often sporting tendrils and a bit of the dirt it was grown in. Don’t be put off.

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tche

Ph ot o b y M I TC H K E R N

Meet Nancy Brown, Proprietor, Say Cheese Fromagerie

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What's your favourite meal to cook for company? Brunch. Yes, it is a meal! What ingredient couldn't you live without? Butter and apples. What tool or appliance gets used most in your kitchen? A really good fry pan. What is your guilty food pleasure? French butter and any bread on the planet. What do you love most about your kitchen? The same thing I hate about it. It’s very small, but it forces me to be somewhat organized. What would you change about it? I’d love to have a gas range.

Celebrating

YEARS Calgary, thank you for one more year of your support!

Which product do you bring home from the store most often? The latest greatest cheese. What's your favourite 10-minute meal to make? Grilled cheese with two or three cheeses and grated apple in my fry pan avec French butter. What's your favourite restaurant in the city? We have so many wonderful restaurants in Calgary but I really love the pizza at the Italian Supermarket at Edmonton Tr. and 20th Ave. N.E. What's something you wish everybody knew about cheese? Like wine and bread, cheese is universal and has been enjoyed since before Roman times. It’s a complex product of its milk source and geography. I’ll stop there! For the complete answer come for brunch!

#EATATMINAS

(403) 454-2550 136 2nd STREET SW minassteakhouse.coM

Churrascaria & Restaurante OPEN FOR DINE-IN, TAKEOUT, DELIVERY & CATERING

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Imagine the Possibilities

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It’s no secret we like cheese. It’s buttery, delicate, sharp, salty, tangy, even nutty and one small slice is all we need to satisfy a craving. We like to fondue, enjoy raclette and especially love getting to know the cheesemakers and mongers in Alberta. In this column, we’ve discovered monthly subscriptions and cheesemaking kits to create excitement and anticipation. Plus, we’ve sampled the most delicious freshly made curds and plantbased cheese that we challenge you to try, and we found a fun gift for the turophile in your life.

Think of cheese curds and naturally poutine comes to mind. But fried cheese curds date back to the ancient Romans who enjoyed it as globuli, a cheese curd or ricotta cheese, dredged in flour, fried, and rolled in honey – sometimes even topped with poppy seeds. Whether the origins are Italian or French, we love our curds without the whey and have found some made right here in Alberta. Located in Coalhurst, Crystal Springs Cheese is a family-run operation that is home to 100 happy cows, a retail store and a café featuring Dutch food. Jacco Beyer is the cheesemaker who creates award winning artisan cheese in a variety of flavours, like Havarti, Gouda, Cheddar, cow feta and cheese curds available in five varieties. In 2018 they bought Bles-Wold and added Greek yogurt, quark yogurt and sour cream to the line-up. Thursdays are curd-making days and a good day to visit, take a tour and drop by the cafe. Curds can be used in a variety of ways: Chop and add to salad, soup or on top of pizza, batter and deep fry like the Romans or skewer and grill them. We don’t want to sound cheesy, but these curds make us melt. Check website for a complete list of retailers. Cheese Curds | European Market Deli and Produce, Italian Centre Shop, Safeway, Sobeys, Save-On-Foods $6.99 | crystalspringscheese.com

Photo provided

CURDS THE WORD

Gouda production at Crystal Springs Cheese.

Shop Local! B y WA N DA B A K E R

Cheese of the Month Subscription Bridgeland Market | $60.00/month bridgelandmarket.com

Photo provided

A cheese-of-the-month subscription is a great way to learn about different types of cheese, tasty condiments and charcuterie board items. Bridgeland Market offers a monthly cheese subscription available in 3, 6 and 12-month options. The in-house cheesemonger carefully curates each box to include three delicious cheese varieties and an assortment of other goodies like crackers, preserves, pickles, olives or even chocolate. Subscriptions are available for delivery or pick-up at the market and are ready the first Thursday of every month. Looking for more cheesy goodness? Visit the market or the website to check out and order cheese trays, charcuterie boards and cheese gift baskets.

Photo provided

SWEET DREAMS ARE MADE OF CHEESE

CHEESE THE DAY

Nothing is more satisfying than making something from scratch, whether it’s beer, wine, cocktails, kombucha, bread or even cheese. We’ve dabbled in ricotta making at home but have decided to up our game this year with cheesemaking kits from Make Cheese, based in Okotoks. Find these kits at any of the Springbank Cheese Co. stores in Calgary, although the Willow Park Village and Crowfoot locations might offer the biggest selection. Whet your appetite with the fresh mozzarella and ricotta kits or start your cheesemaking adventure with a cream cheese kit. The poutine kit is perfect for those who love their curds and gravy. If you prefer more of a challenge, go for the cheddar or feta options. Kits like this are a good way to spend time with the family and learn a new skill. Keep practicing and you’ll be Cheddar in no time. Cheesemaking Kits | Springbank Cheese Co. | $19.95 - $59.95 | springbankcheese.ca Bridgeland Market cheese subscription box

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Poutine and Feta cheesemaking kits

While fermentation might be the buzzword of the 2020s, it’s an ancient and fundamental component of cuisines worldwide. Just like Parmigiano-Reggiano involves an age-old fermentation process, so does vegan cheese. According to Julie Kapuscinski, founder of Glowfood Creamery in Banff, when you make vegan cheese, you are putting microbes to work which help us glow from the inside out. Kapuscinski makes small-batch artisan vegan cheese unlike any plant-based cheese on the market. The cheese is cultured for 24-48 hours, contains high concentrations of good bacteria and is meant to be enjoyed on a cheese board or used to finish dishes like pasta or salad. Currently available is a sharp and complex smoked Cheddar, spicy piri piri and a softer wild-pepper garlic cheese flavoured with lapsang souchong black tea. Oat-cashew camembert and a cashew sour cream is also available, and we think they’re particularly fantastic. We’ve sampled these items a few times and can honestly say it’s hard to tell they're plant based. Products and accompaniments are available through the website or at the retailers listed below.*

AS THE CHEESE TURNS The Swissmar Girouette Cheese and Chocolate Curler is the gadget that will wow your family and friends this year. The sharp blade on a pivoting handle shaves the top layer off a cheese or chocolate wheel creating lovely curls or flowers that will elevate your charcuterie board or dessert platter. As the handle turns, the blade aerates the cheese, releasing aroma and flavour. The folks at Swissmar recommend tête de moine cheese which means monk’s head in French as the best choice, but you could also seek out Cinderella (Aschenputtel) or milch zapfen. Or ask your favourite cheesemonger what they would suggest. The curler comes with a dome to store the wheel until the next time. Girouette Cheese Curler Kitchen Boutique (Cochrane and Canmore,) Springbank Cheese Co. $59.99 $70.00

Vegan Cheese | Charcuterie Vegan Deli, Sunnyside Market, The Coup, Light Cellar (Calgary), Flora Foods (Cochrane), Rusticana (Canmore) | $19.99 | glowfood.ca Glowfood cheese

Swissmar Girouette cheese curler

ESCAPE ORDINARY

EXPLORE OPTIONS

Looking for a unique way to WOW your guests?

Prefer a more traditional style of dining?

Bring the hippest street food vibe to your special day.

Need to feed 2 – 120 people? Meraki Cuisine will cater and deliver, or seriously impress your guests with on-site chef services.

Meraki On The Go is our gourmet ‘chef’s at the wheel’, food-focused travelling kitchen. It’s available for private functions – spring, summer and fall. From classic food truck fare to out of this world gourmet, you can personalize your food truck experience.

3, 4 or 5 course customized and inventive menu options for lunch, brunch, afternoon tea or dinner. Now taking orders for Easter and Passover.

merakicuisine.ca | 403.619.COOK (2665)

*Product was gifted, but article not provided for approval

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Photo provided

LETTUCE EAT CHEESE

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Eats and Treats | S H O P L O C A L

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S t or y b y TA N Y A S C H A A P

Cheeeeeese A CRASH COURSE GINO'S PRO TIPS

FOOD FIT FOR THE GODS CHEESE IS SO HIGHLY VALUED IN GREEK CULTURE

We asked Gino Marghella, the Italian Centre’s general manager and resident cheese expert to share his top tips on cheese.

THAT THERE IS EVEN A GREEK GOD,

DID YOU KNOW?

◉

ARISTAEUS, DESIGNATED

Cheesemaking is depicted in ancient Egyptian tomb murals dating back over 4,000 years.

TO THE ART OF CHEESE-MAKING.

Archaeologists studying pottery fragments found at Stonehenge have concluded that ancient builders offered up cheese,

THE WORD CHEESE

S T O R E Y O U R C H E E S E wrapped in paper or parchment and sealed in a plastic container. Beeswax wrap works too but avoid using plastic wrap as cheese needs to breathe.

◉

COMES FROM THE LATIN WORD

yogurt and milk to the gods.

“CASEUS” WHICH MEANS “TO FERMENT.”

WHEN BUILDING A CHEESE B O A R D , try to choose a range of cheeses with different textures, shapes and colours. Odd numbers always look best.

◉

WHEN SHOPPING FOR CHEESE, don’t be afraid to ask the deli counter pros for their suggestions and don’t be afraid to explore new cheeses with different tastes and smells.

◉

REMEMBER, cheese that might be funky to the nose actually tastes great on the palate.

◉

PURCHASE AROUND 100g per person to start or end a meal. Tanya Schaap

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Cheese should be brought to R O O M T E M P E R A T U R E before serving.

GROUP OF SEVEN The amount of moisture (or whey) left in a cheese dictates both the texture of the cheese and the nature of the rind. With this in mind, international cheese expert Juliet Harbutt has identified SEVEN different types of cheese. FRESH

AGED FRESH

SOFT WHITE

SEMI-SOFT

HARD

BLUE

ADD-INS

No rind, high moisture, mild taste. Think halloumi, ricotta, feta, mozzarella, mascarpone.

Thin rind, white, gray or blue mold. Think Valençay, clochette, Sainte-Maure de Touraine AOC.

Velvety white rind, creamy, mushroom-y taste. Think Brie, Camembert.

Thin/dry to orange/ sticky rind, mild to pungent. Think Taleggio, Langres, Edam.

Rough or polished rind, crumbly to brittle. Think Manchego, Emmentaler, Cheddar.

Sticky to crusty rind, streaked with blue mold, tangy. Think Stilton, Roquefort, Gorgonzola.

Colourful rinds, hard or semi-soft. Think Wensleydale with cranberries, nagelkaas (gouda with cloves).

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CHEESE THE DAY Is it just us or do you find yourself staring at the cheese case bleary-eyed and confused, not knowing what to choose? To save face, we usually ask the shop owner for suggestions. Here are some standouts they recommend we try.

FROM

Peasant Cheese Shop 1249 Kensington Rd. N.W. 587.353.3599 PICOBELLO A Dutch gouda with an Italian twist. Picobello is a dry gouda with notes of toffee and nuttiness. It pairs best with Alsatian wines or dark ales.

HALLOUMI Semi-hard un-ripened “squeaky” cheese. Famous for its high-melting point, Halloumi is an un-ripened cheese made from a mixture of goat and sheep’s milk. It holds its shape even after being fried making it a versatile ingredient. Try it marinated and grilled or simply fried in slices.

S T. AN G E L FROM

Originating from the Côtes du Rhone area in southeastern France, St. Angel has a delicate, bloomy white rind and a hint of mushroom flavour that becomes richer with age. It pairs well with sparkling wine and ripe berries.

Say Cheese Fromagerie

Chinook Cheese #20, 2015 32nd Ave. N.E. 403.764.9764 MEDITERRANEAN STRING CHEESE

Think you’re an expert on cheese? Let’s find out. What kind of cheese is used in Tiramisu? What do you call someone who sells cheese?

A triple-cream, velvet-rind brie.

FROM

Quiz

Crossroads Market 403.262.7530 LEUR EN LAIT A semi-soft rustic cheese made in Lancaster, Ontario. Somewhat of a newcomer to the cheese scene, Fleur en Lait, made in the style of Saint Paulin, is produced in Lancaster, Ontario. Sweet, fruity, yellow and buttery, Fleur en Lait has a thin, edible orange rind and offers a robust, rustic aroma.

Traditional Middle Eastern artisanal cheese.

LE MARECHAL

This highly-ranked cheese is stretched several times while hot until thin strings are formed. It is then cooled rapidly in cold water and brined overnight to add saltiness. In most cases, kalonji (nigella) seeds are added to enhance its flavour. Can be enjoyed as is or on sandwiches.

Infused with herbs during the ripening stage, Le Marechal is produced in the heart of the Vaud countryside in Switzerland. Robust, fragrant and herbaceous, Le Marechal pairs well with figs, olives and dry white wine.

Alpine cheese made from raw milk.

Parmigiano Reggiano cheese comes from which two regions of Italy? What region of Canada produces the most cheese? Which Calgary bakery is famous for its cheese buns? Name a non-aged, non-melting soft cheese widely used in India. What kind of cheese is used in poutine? Name a brined-curd white cheese from Greece. What melted cheese dish from Switzerland became popular in the ’60s and ’70s? What is considered the stinkiest cheese in the world (so much so it was banned on public transit in France)?

Win

Submit your answers to info@savourcalgary.ca. The first entry with the correct answers will win a $100 gift certificate to Modern Steak. Second place is $100 at Spolumbo's and third place is $50 at Spolumbo's. We'll print the answers in the Late Spring issue hitting the stands in May.

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Photo by Alice Enns

In a time of division, holy-day tables bring people together.

David Watson

This year, Easter, Ramadan and Passover all fall within the month of April. With that in mind, here’s a short look at some of each religious holiday’s culinary traditions, as shared by Calgarians who celebrate.

There’s Passover nothing like a major One of the most important Jewish holidays, Passover, also called Pesach, takes place Apr. 15 to 23. The first Seder — a feast celebrating religious the start of Passover — will take place Apr. 15, after sundown. or family “Passover is the time when we come together. It’s very family-oriented,” holiday to says Danielle Braitman, the Calgary Jewish Federation’s director of bring people engagement programs. together “Because my family doesn’t live close, it’s one of the few times of the year around when we see each other and enjoy lots of wine and great food.” a table. Wine is an important part of many Jewish holidays, especially Passover, she

says. “Traditionally you drink four big cups of wine throughout the night, and one tradition that a lot of families have is that you don’t pour your own wine. Someone must pour it for you, and in turn, you pour someone else’s wine.”

Then, of course, there’s the food. The Passover Seder starts with salt water (representing tears) and a plate, one per table, holding a shinbone, an egg, bitter herbs, haroset (a blend of apple, cinnamon and honey) and matzo, a thin, cracker-like unleavened bread.

B y S H E L L E Y B OE T TC H E R Danielle Braitman, the Calgary Jewish Federation’s director of engagement programs says Passover is a time for being with family… and wine. Lots of wine. TOP

Italiano Please! L to R: Federico Petrini Lee, Lucio Petrini, Barbara Lee, Bea Petrini Lee – la famiglia behind Italiano Please! celebrates Easter Roma style with pasta and picnics. MIDDLE

Sam El Kadri of Desert Pita and Grill celebrates the end of Ramadan with friends, family and kebabs. BOTTOM

Shelley Boettcher

“The matzo symbolizes the time when the slaves were leaving Egypt. There wasn’t enough time for the bread to rise, so they just cooked it and took it with them,” she says. Next, Braitman’s family enjoys gefilte fish (ground fish turned into patties and served with horseradish), as well as chicken soup with matzo balls. “Then we do the full meal: brisket, chicken, roast potatoes, lots of vegetables and salad, and traditional desserts made without leavening. Macaroons, made with coconut, are very common,” she says. These days, many families put an orange on the table and eat a piece of it during the meal. “It’s in recognition of LGBTQ people in the community,” she says. “The seeds are spit out as a rejection of homophobia and hate.”

“

YOU DON’T POUR YOUR OWN WINE. SOMEONE MUST

POUR IT FOR YOU, AND IN TURN, YOU POUR SOMEONE

Many places in Calgary offer Seder dishes and ingredients, Braitman notes. Costco, Real Canadian Superstore, Calgary Co-op and Safeway have ingredients and dishes at select locations, while The Carriage House Inn, Karen’s Cafe in the Calgary Jewish Centre, Meraki Cuisine and others offer catering and food to go.

Easter This year, Good Friday falls on Apr. 15, and Easter Sunday, of course, is two days later, on Apr. 17. Kids across the city will celebrate Easter Sunday morning with baskets of candy, chocolate bunnies and Easter egg hunts. Others take their culinary traditions one step further. Born in Rome, Barbara Lee grew up in Calgary but moved back to Rome for 30 years and only returned to Calgary in 2021. Now she and her family own and operate Italiano Please!, a Roman takeaway and catering business here.

1 8 E A RLY S P R I N G 2022 S AVO U RC A LG A RY.c a

”

ELSE’S WINE.

Lee says that for her family, the Italian Easter feast starts at breakfast on Easter Sunday with hardboiled eggs, corallina salami (a Roman speciality) and pizza al formaggio. “It translates as cheese pizza, but it’s more like a Christmas panettone but with pecorino cheese and no fruit,” she says. Lunch is the biggest meal of the day. “A nice lasagna would be a good place to start, or maybe some fettuccini, if you have someone who makes it by hand,” says Lee. Then, following the pasta, there’s a meat course. “It’s either lamb or baby goat — unfortunately for them but lucky for us. It’s almost always roasted in the oven with potatoes.” Seasonality is key, she says, adding that artichokes and asparagus are both in season around this time in Rome, so often show up on the table. And a stew made with offal, artichokes, a bit of tomato sauce and chili is also common. “Between your pasta and your second course, you’d have a few spoonfuls with good bread,” she says. And of course, there’s dessert. These days, an Italian favourite is colomba di pasqua, a dove-shaped sweet bread from Milan that's a bit like panettone and can be found in Italian grocery stores in Calgary this time of year. Not surprisingly, after a day of feasting, her family doesn’t eat a lot at night on Easter Sunday; they simply reheat whatever is left from the afternoon if they’re still hungry. But the culinary traditions continue Easter Monday, “Pasquetta,” Lee notes, when much of Rome will pack a picnic and get outside. “Maybe you’ll make a frittata, cut into wedges, some nice bread and some of WHAT’S MOST the hardboiled eggs,” Lee says. Her family also loves casatiello, a meat- and cheese-stuffed bread that they’ll IMPORTANT, HOWEVER, make for Calgarians at Italiano Please! this year, too.

“

IS TO GE T OUTSIDE WITH FRIENDS

”

AND FAMILY.

What’s most important, however, is to get outside with friends and family. “We have a lot of fun,” she says. “Rome has huge parks, so there’s tons of space to get out and have a nice picnic.”

Ramadan The ninth month of the Muslim calendar and the holy month of fasting, Ramadan takes place Apr. 2 to May 2, 2022. “This is the most important month, the best days in the year for all Muslim people,” says Sam El Kadri, who owns The Desert Pita and Grill, a popular Lebanese restaurant in the community of Forest Lawn. During Ramadan, however, food is reserved for evenings only. From sunrise to sunset, Muslims traditionally fast; while children aren’t expected to participate, they learn, imitating their parents, and even El Kadri’s young children do their best to emulate their dad. “My kids, they like to say ‘We are fasting with you, Daddy,’” he says with a laugh. “They try but they are young. They can’t fast all day yet.” Then, after sundown, El Kadri’s family breaks their fast with a simple meal of dates, then fattoush (salad made with cucumbers and tomatoes) and usually a soup. At the end of Ramadan, people hold big feasts — kebabs and falafel are on the menu at El Kadri’s house — and celebrate with friends and family. “Families come together and it is a time of forgiveness,” he explains. If you’ve skipped fasting during the month, you have to give away money and food to less-fortunate people, he says. “You make sure all your neighbours are helped if they need it.”

“

MY KIDS, THE Y

LIKE TO SAY ‘WE

ARE FASTING WITH YOU, DADDY’.

Last year was a tough one for El Kadri, whose father passed away at the age of 91. “It was the first Ramadan I had without my father. That was the saddest I have ever been,” he says. He is hopeful, however, that 2022 will be better — not just for his family but for others, too. “I hope the best for everyone.”

If you’ve got the craving, we’ve got the cure. Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.

italiancentre.ca

EDMONTON | CALGARY | SHERWOOD PARK E A RLY S P R I N G 2022 S AVO U RC A LG A RY.c a

”

DUCERS MEET THE PR

B y RU T H R IC H E RT

Here’s a handful on our radar:

The grassy tang of chèvre, the mild nuttiness of Gouda, the briny bite of feta… cheese intrigues our palates like few other foods. Going beyond the industrial chunk of Cheddar or package of paneer that many of us grab on a grocery run, family cheesemaking businesses craft memorable cheeses made with passion. Here are four of our favourite southern Alberta cheesemakers.

SYLVAN STAR

When John and Janneke Schalkwyk and their son Jeroen moved to Canada from the Netherlands in 1995, they weren’t planning to start a cheesemaking business. Though John had been a prize-winning cheesemaker and teacher in the Netherlands, he wanted to focus on dairy farming in his new home. But then he tried and failed to find good local cheese in Alberta. “I could not find the quality cheese like they make in Holland,” he says, so he decided to try making it himself. “Everyone said, you cannot make cheese here in Alberta. I’m laughing [because] you can make cheese anywhere in the world! What’s really important is what you feed the cows.” For Sylvan Star cows, that means a blend of alfalfa, grass, barley and corn. The creamy milk is turned into cheeses that are carefully coated and ripened at room temperature. The attention to detail has paid off: Sylvan Star regularly wins awards for its cheeses, and Schalkwyk offers instruction in cheesemaking to visiting European students. L ocation :

Between Sylvan Lake and Red Deer

Gouda, Edam, and Klondyk Swiss (similar to Gruyere)

P roduc t s :

W he re to find : Community Natural Foods, farmers’ markets in Calgary, Italian Centre Shops

sylvanstarcheesefarm.com

CHINOOK CHEESE While Tarif Hamad has always loved cheese, his career began in the oilpatch. Originally from Syria, he was working in Dubai when his company transferred him to Calgary. Craving the foods they enjoyed in the Middle East, he and his family searched for Mediterranean-style cheeses, but were disappointed with what they found. “They were not good quality, not fresh,” says Hamad. “Being a chemical engineer with an analytical mind, I thought, why don’t I try making this here?” He began experimenting, enlisting help from university professors and cheese experts, and training staff in the art of cheesemaking. Chinook Cheese began selling commercially in 2019, and Hamad immediately noticed the impact on his friends and community. “This was filling a real need for people,” he says. “They couldn’t find good cheese, and I realized that this was something I could do for my community.” He continues to develop new cheese and dairy products, while balancing cheesemaking with his work in the oilpatch. “Like they say,” he laughs, “growth and comfort do not coexist!” L ocation :

20, 2015 32nd Ave. N.E.

Haloumi, feta, labneh, Akawi, string cheese, among others

P roduc t s :

W he re to find : Storefront at 32nd Ave. N.E., Calgary Co-op stores, some Sobey’s locations, ethnic grocery stores

chinookcheese.com

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Photos provided

Crystal Springs Dairy Company If their children hadn’t loved farming so much, Evert and Jannie Beyer may never have become cheesemakers. Immigrants from the Netherlands, the Beyers began their life in Canada by raising beef cattle, followed by hogs, and then eventually started a small dairy. As their six children grew up, though, they needed to find ways to expand their farming business. “All of us like farming, so my parents tried to find ways to keep us all involved,” their son Jacco explains, “because there’s only so much one farm can sustain.” They decided to try cheesemaking, and after purchasing a cheese plant from another farmer in 2005, the Beyers began the challenging work of learning to make cheese. “We had no clue,” says Jacco. “If everything went perfectly, it was fine, but we didn’t know how to troubleshoot. There was a lot of learning.” Over the years, the Beyers have perfected their cheesemaking techniques, and now sell a wide variety of cheese, curds and yogurt, all made from easily digestible A2 milk. Four of their children still work on the farm, carrying on the family passions of farming and cheesemaking. L ocation : TOP

Tarif Hamad, Chinook Cheese

Near Lethbridge

Havarti, Gouda, Cheddar, cheese curds, feta, and yogurt products under the Bles-Wold label

P roduc t s :

Carolyn Van Driesten, Noble Meadows

W he re to find :

Crystal Springs, eggnog production

crystalspringscheese.com

MIDDLE L

MIDDLE R

Safeway and Sobey’s locations throughout Calgary

NOBLE MEADOWS FARM Twice a day, 300 goats daintily step into the milking parlour on Carolyn and Harvey Van Driesten’s farm, where they nibble a mixture of fava beans and barley as they’re milked by the Van Driestens’ daughters. It sounds like quite a herd, until you realize that they don’t produce milk on the same scale as their cow cousins. “More like divided by 10,” laughs Carolyn. The milk is piped to the creamery on the farm, where Carolyn turns it into chèvre, feta and yogurt. The Van Driestens have been milking goats since 2005, but it was a shift in the market in 2010 that pushed them to expand into cheesemaking. “I had been making a little bit [of cheese] in my kitchen,” says Carolyn, “but we had to learn to do it in a way that was safe for other people.” They started small, selling in farmers’ markets in Calgary and building a solid customer base for their cheese. While Covid has been difficult for the wholesale side of their business, the Van Driestens’ dedication to making quality goat milk products as naturally as possible has maintained their popularity with retail customers. L ocation :

Near Nobleford

goat feta, chèvre, goat milk, goat milk yogurt

P roduc t s :

W he re to find : Sunnyside Natural Market, Prairie Farms, and Say Cheese Fromagerie at Crossroads Market

noblemeadowsfarm.com

John Schalkwyk, Sylvan Star BOTTOM

Spring!

L AYA

C E L E B R AT E

ESTATE CRAFTED RICH FL AVOUR SPANISH RED BLEND 90 P OINTS

@piejunkieyyc | piejunkie.ca

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Ph ot os a n d s t or y b y G R AC E WA NG

Market Report TWISTED CAFÉ: It’s easy to get lost in the maze of Crossroads Market, but the unassuming café at the main entrance is not to be missed. Twisted Café is a longstanding institution at the market, and its newest owner Lili works together with her mother and husband to bring delicious, sweet and savory Hungarian snacks to marketgoers.

The unique chimney cake, or kürtőskalács, is a traditional Hungarian treat made of Chimney Cake sweet, airy dough wrapped into a helix and baked to order in a rotating oven. It’s finished with a liberal dusting of cinnamon sugar, vanilla sugar, coconut flakes or walnuts. Crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, chimney cakes are fun to untwist and best when enjoyed fresh out of the oven. For an especially decadent treat, ask for your chimney cake with ice cream, Nutella, or whipped cream.

VOTED

BEST FOOD STORE IN CALGARY

For cheese lovers, Lili serves up lángos, a chewy fried flatbread smothered in garlic sour cream and topped with heaps of shredded mozzarella. She says it is a popular snack in Budapest, and once you’ve tried one, it’s not hard to see why. The soft fried bread pairs perfectly with the tangy garlic sour cream and generous mozzarella topping. Lili took over at Twisted Café right before the pandemic started, and acknowledges it has been a challenging time, especially with rising inflation. But her love of sharing authentic Hungarian food with new customers and regulars keeps her happy at the market. In the future, Lili hopes to experiment with savoury chimney cakes, new toppings for her lángos, and more Hungarian pastries. We can’t wait to try them! Twisted Café | Crossroads Market 1235 26th Ave. S.E. | 403.999.3121

WAFFLES & CHIX: Waffles & Chix has been a part of Calgary’s food scene since 2012, when Iva Ivanova and Petar Ivanov launched their popular food truck. Since then, the pair has set up a permanent location at Fresh & Local Market + Kitchens serving up Southern fried chicken and an assortment of hearty buttermilk waffles. Iva says that most of their dishes have been on the menu for more than a decade, as they remain equally popular with regulars and first-timers alike.

Waffles & Chix Cheezy Waffles

Waffles and Chix’s cheezy waffles have been around since the start and showcase their signature Belgian-style waffles and crispy, lightly battered fried chicken strips. A handful of shredded cheddar cheese crisps up on the outside of the waffles and adds the perfect cheesy kick. Of course, chicken and waffles would be incomplete without sides, and Waffles & Chix finishes things off with their tasty homemade coleslaw and a drizzle of real maple syrup. While fried chicken and waffles is traditionally an American dish, Iva and Petar’s menu also features a Canadian classic: poutine. Their loaded fried chicken poutine is a fusion masterpiece with a mound of piping hot French fries, melty cheese, and freshly fried chicken and bacon, all drenched in Southern white gravy and topped with a sunny-side-up egg. 1 block north of the Canyon Meadows LRT Located next to the Collective Beer Store

D441, 12445 Lake Fraser Drive SE Calgary, AB

Monday to Saturday 10a-6p; Sundays 11a-5p

Shop online at FreshAndLocalFarmOutlet.com

22 E A RLY S P R I N G 2022 S AVO U RC A LG A RY.c a

With a bustling market stall, Iva and Petar say they are grateful to their loyal customers and have plans to expand to more locations in the future, making it that much easier for Calgarians to satisfy their chicken and waffles cravings. Waffles & Chix | Fresh & Local Market + Kitchens 12445 Lake Fraser Dr. S.E. | 403.681.1223 | wafflesandchix.com

BLACK PEPPER BRIE B y ROL A N D S C H M I D T-BE L L AC H , C H A NGI NG S E A S ON S B & B , N A N TON , A B Ph ot o s b y C A M I E L E A R D e x c e pt wh e re n ot e d .

Time to make

Implements required

Instructions

Curd cutting

Place large pot in your kitchen sink with the stopper in.

6 hours to first turn

Large stock pot (6-8 l or 1½ -2 gallon)

Bring milk and cream to room temperature then pour into your pot.

12 hours to second turn

Measuring spoons

1 hour to brine

Thermometer (digital preferred)

Mix calcium chloride with 60 ml (¼ cup) of non-chlorinated water, then add to milk mixture.

When curds have set with a soft, jello-like consistency that can be cut cleanly with a knife, cut curds into approx. 2-cm (1 inch) cubes by cutting across in a grid pattern as close to the bottom of the pot as you can with your long knife (cubes don’t have to be perfect).

1-1½ hrs + 1-2 hrs to add all curd

Minimum 2 weeks to age

Ingredients

Wide slotted spoon or ladle Regular ladle

4 L (1 gallon) skim or 1% milk

Long knife (we used a bread knife)

1 L (4¼ cup) 32% whipping cream

Brie rounds (we used 10-cm (4-inch) plastic pipe sawed to a 15-cm (6-inch) height)

1¼ ml (¼ tsp) calcium chloride* 2/3 ml (1/8 tsp)

mesophilic culture* 1/3 ml (1/16 tsp)

penicillium candidum*

1¼ ml (¼ tsp) rennet* Black pepper in a pepper mill Non-iodized salt

Draining mat (we used bamboo)

Stir for 3 minutes then heat milk gently/evenly to 29C (84F) by pouring boiling water into the sink around your pot and stirring to distribute heat evenly. Once warmed, add mesophilic culture and penicillium candidum to the milk mixture – do not stir. Let the cultures hydrate on top of the milk for 5 minutes.

When you’re done cutting, let the curds “heal” for 5 minutes. Ensuring your temperature is back up to 29C by adding more hot water to the sink (not the pot), gently stir with your ladle for another 5 minutes lifting contents from the bottom of the pot to the top to separate the whey from the curds.

When hydrated, stir in cultures for 3-5 minutes. Dilute rennet in 60 ml (¼ cup) non-chlorinated water. Stir into milk for 1 minute. Let sit for 40-50 minutes until curds have set.

Wire draining rack Draining tray or pan (we used a serving tray) Large container for brining (able to submerge 2 brie rounds at 10 cm (4 in) in diameter) Air-tight storage container for aging in the fridge Aging rack (we used slotted wooden rack)

*Buy online or find a list of stores at makecheese.ca

Aging mat (we used perforated rubber mat) Rack and mat can be the same used for draining if they fit into your air-tight container Makes two rounds

Draining prep

F o r m f i l l i n g /d r a i n i n g

While you’re waiting for your curds to set, assemble your draining station beside the sink:

With your slotted ladle, begin lifting the curds from the pot into the rounds you prepared, one after the other.

Place draining tray next to the sink, Place wire draining rack perpendicularly on top of the draining tray, Place draining mats on top of the draining rack meeting in the middle, with the long ends hanging off the sides of the rack, Place brie rounds beside each other in the centre, each on its own mat, Practice folding the mat over the top of the round and flipping the round holding tightly to the top and the bottom. This will be a crucial and difficult step later, so you’ll want to be confident.

Between each layer, grind a thin sprinkle of pepper into the rounds, then add the next layer keeping the rounds even as you go. Continue alternating layers of curd and pepper. You can press a regular ladle down into the curds to help drain off whey as well, or you can manually drain rounds using the flipping technique in the next step and holding over the sink as whey drains. Be very careful to maintain pressure on both ends when using this technique. Once you’ve filled and drained as much as you can in an hour, let sit on your draining mat for 6 hours.

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Between each layer, grind a thin sprinkle of pepper into the rounds, then add the next layer keeping the rounds even as you go.

Flipping After 6 hours, fold each draining mat over the top of its respective round and gently slide off the edge of the rack keeping one hand firmly on top and sliding onto the other hand maintaining downward pressure. Flip the round and place topside down on the draining mat.

Brining

After flipping, let it sit for 12 hours.

When ready, submerse cheese rounds for 1 hour in an 18% salt solution by weight (225g salt per litre of water), flipping over at the halfway mark. Remember to use noniodized salt. This can be done in a large bowl or plastic container as long as the cheese is completely submerged. You will need to use a sterile glass or another object to weigh the cheese down as it will float in the brining solution.

Gently pull the form off the cheese. If it slides on as easily as it slid off, it is ready for brining. If not, do your best to get it back on the cheese with as little damage as possible and wait another few hours before trying again.

When complete, place the rounds back on your rack and let dry for 24-48 hours at room temperature until just tacky to the touch (time will vary depending on the humidity of your environment.)

NOTE: If you take the pressure off the bottom, your curds will all fall out of the round.

Resting

Escape to the Farm Enjoy a home cooked meal, shop with ease and drink in the view. You’ve earned this peaceful break. PaSu Farm is a country oasis that offers elegant simplicity and nourishes the soul. Take in magnificent mountain views from our restaurant, which has 25-foot ceilings and large windows to

enjoy the bucolic landscapes. The boutique is a shopper’s delight for all ages, and our customers enjoy a peacefulness that comforts and calms their spirits.

40 minutes north of Calgary | 403.337.2800 or 1.800.679.7999 | www.pasu.com 24 E A RLY S P R I N G 2022 S AVO U RC A LG A RY.c a

Roland Schmidt-Bellach

Storage and aging Place a rack and a draining mat in the bottom of your aging container and place rounds on top adding a tsp of water in the bottom before putting on the air-tight lid. Store at 5-15C (we used our fridge) for at least 2 weeks, turning daily, or until the sides begin to feel a little spongy (softer). The white rind develops around 10 days. Continue to age as per your taste (we like 4 weeks). Enjoy with your favourite bread, wine or beer while you brag to your friends about having made this delicious brie yourself!

Roland teaches cheesemaking classes out of his Changing Seasons Bed and Breakfast in Nanton, AB. While classes have been suspended during the pandemic, watch for new dates this spring as restrictions begin to ease: changingseasonsbandb. com/workshops/cheese

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136 2 Street SW, Calgary AB BRAZILCONNECTION.CA A T D A L H O U S I E S T A T I O N 403.286.5220 www.zestkitchenware.com

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Quick Bites AN ITALIAN EXPERIENCE LC photo

Toscana Italian Grill opened its second location in Mahogany earlier this year. Open seven days a week for dine-in and takeout, the south kitchen dishes up the same authentic Italian food as the original location. Toscana Italian Grill | #1B, 8330 Macleod Trail S.E. | 403.255.1212 | toscanagrill.ca Toscana Italian Grill | 1370, 7 Mahogany Plaza S.E. | 403.455.5050 | toscanagrill.ca

GRUB MED WINE DINNER Modern Steak presents Grub Med, a Mediterranean wine dinner with Bonavida Wines and Fluid Imports on Friday, March 18. A portion of every ticket sold goes to the Centre for Suicide Prevention. Modern Steak modernsteak.ca

Le Creuset Braiser

CASUALLY COOL BLUE This Spring, Le Creuset is launching its newest colour, Chambray – a soft, slate blue with gray undertones and a gold knob. A selection of cast-iron pieces will be available April 1. Le Creuset | 6455 Macleod Tr. S.W. 403.262.1128 | lecreuset.ca

A HEALTHIER PLATE The Calgary Produce Marketing Association is hosting the Half Your Plate Chefs Dinner on Friday, March 25th at Heritage Park. This ticketed event gathers local chefs showcasing produce-inspired dishes.

NEW FOOD DESTINATION Calgary’s newest dining destination, The District at Beltline features some of Calgary’s top chefs. Now open to the public, with more to come are Modern Burger, Roy’s Korean Kitchen, Takori, Shrub Bloom, Oishidesu Ramen Shack and Greenfish. The District at Beltline 11th Ave. and 2nd. St. S.W. | thedistrictbeltline.com

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Heritage Park Historical Village | 1900 Heritage Dr. S.W. 403.268.8500 | calgarypma.ca/chefs-dinner

EAT FOR A WEEK Spolumbo’s freezer-friendly packs provide enough food for a week. For $100 each pack includes lasagna, cannelloni, barca, meatballs and marinara sauce. Advance ordering required. Spolumbo’s | 1308 9th Ave. S.E. | 403.264.6452 spolumbos.com

Murrieta's Hospitality photo

N E W S , notes & happenings | Q U I C K B I T E S

Borough Bar and Grill

EAT, SIP AND BE SOCIAL Calgary’s University District is open with new eateries and businesses and more coming this spring and summer. Borough Bar and Grill is a new restaurant concept by Murrieta’s Hospitality inspired by the five boroughs of New York offering casual and contemporary dining. Save the date for their opening this summer with a menu created by Chef Daniel Pizarro. Borough Bar and Grill | 4410 University Ave. N.W. myuniversitydistrict.ca

SOMMELIER COMPETITION The 2022 Regional Jeunes Sommelier competition will take place in Calgary on April 9th and 30th. This Alberta competition is open to young professionals between the ages of 21 and 26 who have a pronounced interest and knowledge of wine and crafted beverages. Hosted by La Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, the event invites competitors from across the province to participate. Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Calgary | chainecalgary.ca

WOMEN IN BREWING Free House Local Beer & Food Hall presents the Celebrating Women in Brewing Dinner on March 24th. This four-course meal comes with beer pairings. Purchase tickets in advance. Free House Local Beer & Food Hall | 1153 Kensington Cr. N.W. | 403.452.1339 | freehouseyyc.com

32 YEARS

STRONG

Personal Fitness Instruction Inc. Personal Training Nutritional Consulting

Helping our clients live healthier lives – one workout at a time

e work with people of all shapes and sizes but we love working with clients who want to fight ageing every step of the way,” says One on One owner Sandra Bueckert (pictured below). “Age is the great equalizer and at 55, I’m a part of the resistance.” “I chose One on One many years ago as I wanted to gain muscle and become stronger,” says Elizabeth Walsh, a 20-year client. “I knew the best way for me was to be with experts and to have appointments I would not miss.” There are no fads or gimmicks at One on One. It’s the home of sweat equity.

Workouts for clients looking to reach their goals online or in-person are by appointment only. “Every client has different goals and different issues to consider. We get it. We understand. We’re aware that getting started can feel overwhelming. Our aim is to simplify the process for you,” says Sandra. “Together, we’ll sit down and discuss your fitness goals, nutrition, health history, work schedule and so much more. This will allow us to custom design a solid fitness plan for you.”

AL PERSIONNING TRAPPOINTMENT BY A

your day for tion. ndra to lta Call Sa ntary consu me compli

EVENTS CALENDAR Events in Calgary are starting again, and we invite you to submit your event for free to our online Savour Calgary events calendar. Oh, and check it regularly to see what’s coming up! Savour Calgary | savourcalgary.ca

www.oneononeﬁtness.ca

1516 17 Ave. SW, Calgary, AB • 403.244.9059 • oneononefitness@shaw.ca

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Photo provided

STRAIGHT FROM THE HEARTLAND One of our favourite out-of-town spots is the Heartland Café and Restaurant in Okotoks. Housed in a former church, the atmosphere is beautiful and makes for a unique lunch or dinner out. The last time we visited, we tried the salmon tartare for the first time and had to tell you about it. A simple preparation of raw fish with creamy sesame dressing, caviar, chives, mayo and radish root, the tartare is served with baguette rounds and is fresh, delicious and the perfect shared start to your meal. Heartland Café and Restaurant | 46 McRae Street Okotoks | 403.995.4623 | hearlandcafe.ca

BACK ALLEY PIZZA

CONGRATULATIONS To Bridgeland Distillery for their multiple medal wins at the Canadian Artisan Spirits Competition. This puts them in the most medals won by a single distillery in Canada category. Bridgeland Distillery | 77 Edmonton Tr. | 403.455.9335 | bridgelanddistillery.com

The last thing you might expect to find in a downtown back alley in Calgary is delicious Detroit-style pizza, but hey, this town is full of surprises. Launched in 2021 by a group of friends with day jobs and a passion for pizza, Sunday Pie operates out of the back of the Wednesday Room on Stephen Ave. serving up fresh pizza pies for curbside pickup every Sunday from 3-7 p.m. Order online no later than 11 a.m. on Sunday for same-day pickup. Sunday Pie | 118 8th Ave. S.W. Text 825.438.2195 | linktr.ee/sundaypie.ca

Wild game is good food. Hearty Mushroom Soup with Venison

HarvestYourOwn.ca

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Camie Leard

N E W S , notes & happenings | Q U I C K B I T E S

Camie Leard

BUZZIN’ AROUND THE HIVE When we were in Nanton learning how to make cheese (see this issue’s Master Class) we happened upon the greatest little shop and restaurant that offers hundreds of products made by Southern Albertans and there’s a tonne of food products we can’t wait to try including everything from candy to barbecue sauce. The Hive rents shelf space to makers giving many home-based businesses the opportunity to retail their goods outside of typical farmers’ market hours. Under the same roof, find The Buzz, a small eatery featuring pub-style grub and featuring local brews. The Hive/The Buzz | 2517 21st Ave., Nanton 403.646.2056 | @thehivenanton

DOMO ARIGATO Namo's Gouda BELT is enormous and delicious.

As if there hasn’t been enough excitement in Crescent Heights Village of late, a new Japanese street-food vendor has set up shop in Vivaan’s Yummies former location. With offerings from karaage to boba, you’ll find something for lunch, dinner and snacks all day at Tori-K. We tried their specialty strawberry passion smoothy with lychee jellies. Yum!

Nanton's Bee My Honey...honey

ON THE BRUNCH TRAIL We always love an opportunity to have brunch at Namo Café Bistro – is it the tater tots? Maybe. But it’s probably the variety of international flavours, plentiful vegetarian, vegan and gluten free options and their support of local producers. This time around, we indulged in the Gouda BELT from the Lunchy-Brunchy menu. It was enormous. We finished it all. No regrets.

Tori-K | 1015 Centre St. N.W. | @torik.express

Namo Café Bistro | 824 Edmonton Tr. N.E. | 403.475.7010 | namocafebistro.com

PA S T U R E TO P L AT E

Full Blood Wagyu Bull

Black Angus Cow Wagyu Cross Calf

Finished Wagyu

Premium Prime Plus Wagyu Beef

It all starts with using the best Wagyu genetics from Full Blood Wagyu Bulls and crossing them with Black Angus cows. Calves are raised with the mother cows during the spring, summer and fall on green pastures. Weaned calves are then sustainably fed a nutritionally balanced grain diet for up to 2 1/2 years. The result is the best Alberta raised Wagyu beef, with amazing flavour, texture and eating experience.

Artisan Beef exclusively sold in our BLW Butcher Shop

Distributed across Canada

507 - 42 AVENUE SE CALGARY AB | 587 352.3311 | BRANTLAKEWAGYU.CA

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F U N F O O D T A L E S f rom the f ront line | F U N N Y B O N E S

10 FOODS

that are just

Without cheese, salad is sad. Adding a 1 Salad: sprinkling of feta, a shred of Cheddar or a cube

VEHICLES for CHEESE

of Havarti gives me something to rummage for in a giant bowl of leaves. If I happen to ingest some lettuce in the process, I can tell my doctor I got my greens. Win/win.

By CA MIE LE A R D

Cheese is the best food on Earth, and I’ll fight anyone who says different. Mind you, I fight with fondue sticks and I’m not very fast, so you’d probably come out unscathed. Whether it’s melty, sprinkle-y, spready, dippy or crumbly, cheese goes with basically everything. In fact, I’d go so far as to say some foods exist solely as a method of getting cheese from outside my mouth to inside my mouth and are otherwise inedible. I give you 10 foods that are really just vehicles for cheese.

Broccoli: Raw broccoli is like shoving a 6 handful of confetti in your mouth – dry,

crumbly and frowned upon at weddings. Cooked broccoli, on the other hand, smells like… well, you know… but can be neutralized with a creamy, cheesy roux.

French Onion Soup: If meals were movies, onions 7 Cauliflower: See broccoli; add offensive 2 are extras… maybe a saucy cashier with one line teeth squeak. in scene 47. Onions are not the hero of the story, Macaroni: Mac and cheese is one of food’s even a soup story. Onion soup, French or otherwise, 8 greatest marriages. Like Jay-Z and Beyonce, is a vehicle for bread, and more importantly, cheese. Cheese is the George Clooney of the French onion soup feature – rich and delicious.

Just make it a quesadilla 3 Tacos: and be done with it already. On their own, crackers are a poor 4 Crackers: excuse for a carb. Dry, bland, sometimes

downright aggressive in mouthfeel. But a schmear of triple cream on a water cracker or gorgonzola on a rye crisp and you’ve got yourself something edible… with a cracker on the bottom.

Celery: This crunchy crudité is a special kind of heinous on its own – but it’s a natural fit for Cheese Whiz. I know, the Whiz isn’t technically food, but it is cheese-like and drastic times (bare, raw celery on a plate) call for drastic measures.

when mac and cheese come together it’s music to our mouths. And, just like Bey and Jay, there’s one partner in the union that far outshines the other. Yeah, I said it.

Bagels: Unless you have cream 9 cheese on hand, why even pull this

chewy, tasteless doughnut out of the bag? You’re meshuga, that’s why.

Pretzels: I’m talking the soft warm ones, 10 not the crunchy ones from a bag (see #4

for thoughts on those.) Granted, a fresh pretzel is not just a vehicle for cheese – it’s also a vehicle for beer. Mix cheese and beer together and you’ve created something you’ll need a pretzel to eat. While you might want to slurp beer-cheese dip straight from the bowl, you could draw some stares, gasps and judge-y head shakes and… so I hear.

Second Location: This Year in Greenwich 3 0 JA N UA RY » F EB RUA RY 2022 S AVO U RC A LG A RY.c a

MODERN OCEAN A S U S TA I N A B L E F I S H & S E A F O O D H O U S E

KENSINGTON | SOUTHPORT WWW.MODERNOCEAN.CA

THANK YOU CALGARY ! 22 AWARDS

Forty-five small businesses, producers, chefs, bakers, florists, herbalist and pub-keepers have survived the pandemic by building a welcoming and safe community for all. Their compassionate and caring presence is a stabilizing force during these uncomfortable times. Loving hands prepare your food at the 20 culinary kitchens at the Fresh & Local Market + Kitchens. Having 22 Community Votes winners in one place, makes it easy for you to eat amazing meals and shop for local food from producers and purveyors in one place. At the centre of your community is the Fresh & Local Market + Kitchens in Avenida Village – a destination which inspires laughter, entertains you with music, supplies your groceries, baking, organic meat, herbal treatment protocols, cheerful flowers and delicious meals. Thank you to everyone who voted for the culinary kitchens and local small businesses in the Fresh & Local Market + Kitchens. Every one of your votes was important and appreciated.

Platinum Winners

Asian Food: Fusion Food: Burgers: Fries: Greek Food: Italian Food: Farmers Market: General Retail Store: Caribbean Food: Jamaican Food: Latin Food:

Gold Winners

Health Food Store: Food Trucks:

Silver Winner Latin Food:

Bronze Winners Latin Food: Thai Food:

Top Picks

Coffee Shop: Japanese Food: Thai Food: BBQ: Wings: Food Truck:

ExpatAsia ExpatAsia The JSpot The JSpot Mykonos Greek Street Food Pranzo Italiano Fresh & Local Market + Kitchens Fresh & Local Farm Outlet Ocho Rios Caribbean Cuisine Ocho Rios Caribbean Cuisine Sabor A Peru

Come and experience our personal brand of hospitality and service Thursday through Sunday.

FRIDAYS & SATURDAYS 6 – 8pm

MARCH 26

Call 403.475.4155 ext 6 for reservations

Herbal Healing Community Food Truck Group

WE ARE CALGARY’S DESTINATION FOR GREAT FOOD

WINNERS OF

IN AVENIDA VILLAGE

•

APRIL 9

426, 12445 Lake Fraser Drive SE

QueChivo

Mestizo Mexican Street Food Bangkok Street Food

Holy Cannoli Oishidesu Ramen Shack Thai Manna KFS BBQ Smokehouse KFS BBQ Smokehouse Waffles & Chix

Calgary’s Local Food HUB In Avenida Village 426, 12445 Lake Fraser Drive SE (1 block north of the Canyon Meadows LRT)

Ph: 403•475•4155

Thursday – Saturday 11a-8p; Sundays 11a-5p

Buy online at www.FreshAndLocal.ca

Savour Calgary - Spring 2022

Articles inside

Savour Selects

Quick Bites

Fresh Market

Master Class