WINTER 2022
FRESH. LOCAL. STORIES FOR FOOD LOVERS.
SMOKE SHOW
CULINARY COUPLES
SPICE
IN MY KITCHEN
GATHER
WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO SPARKLE
START THE YEAR WITH A SPLASH!
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Welcome | F R O M T H E E D I T O R
Contents 14
H
appy 2022! This is a time for fresh starts, clean slates and new projects. What’s your goal for this year? I have a few things on my culinary to-do list, including growing some vegetables for the first time this summer, taking a knife skills class (bystanders beware!) and taking on every “Masterclass” recipe we publish this year. I’ve already done this issue’s squash and oyster mushroom risotto by Jamie Harling and it was spectacular – especially when paired with his wife (and gifted sommelier) Brit Hart’s suggestion of a Giribaldi GM Alma Nebbiolo d'Alba. Full transparency: My dear friend and home cook extraordinaire Jeni Piepgrass did the cooking, and I did the eating – but we’re aiming for progress, not perfection, right?
As this is the official Valentine’s Day issue, we’re celebrating love and partnership on the following pages. Shelley Boettcher introduces us to some of Calgary’s culinary couples and we introduce our new regular feature – “In my Kitchen” – with the wife-and-wife team behind Jane Bond BBQ, Chef Jenny Burthwright and Adrienne Keith. Also new to Savour Calgary is Philip Coppard who authors this issue’s “Funny Bones” with his surefire point system for how to tell if a café will have good coffee without even going inside. We heat things up with a trip up the spice trail with Tanya Schaap and ogle some of Calgary’s best looking dishes with Grace Wang and Cut Cooking. Of course you’ll find all the best local finds with Wanda Baker’s Shop Local, a bit of tropical whimsy in January with Ellen Kelly’s “Fresh Market” pineapple and the latest news, notes and snacks in “Savour Selects” and “Quick Bites.” We hope you love the issue as much as we loved putting it together. At the risk of sounding mushy, this magazine is our valentine to Calgary’s food scene and the people who make it what it is. And we’re smitten.
16 10 Savour Calgary tells the food stories that happen at Mohkínstsis, located in the traditional territories of the Niitsitapi and the people of the Treaty 7 region and the Métis Nation of Alberta, Region 3. We acknowledge the indigenous people of this area as keepers of the land and water that make these stories possible and thank them for their hospitality and stewardship of this place.
2022 ISSUE SCHEDULE
Camie Leard, Editor camie@savourcalgary.ca
Watch for Savour Calgary on newsstands throughout 2022. Early Spring | March 16 Late Spring | May 11 Summer | July 13 Harvest | Sept 14
SAVOURCALGARY.ca
Holiday | Nov 16
22 Features 14 Culinary Couples 16 Smoke Show 22 Spice
The Regulars 5 9 10 12 19 24 26 30
Savour Selects Fresh Market In My Kitchen Shop Local Market Report Masterclass Quick Bites Funny Bones
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3
RECIPES WITH COCOCO CHOCOLATE
PUBLISHER
Debbie Lambert debbie@savourcalgary.ca EDITOR
Camie Leard camie@savourcalgary.ca A S S O C I AT E E D I T O R
Wanda Baker wanda@savourcalgary.ca MAGAZINE DESIGN
Cheryl Starr Design Group stellardesign.ca COVER
This gorgeous creation is by Cut Cooking’s Meg Kibyuk (photographer) and Stacey Hilscher (recipe developer) and uses Cococo chocolate as the base for their custom recipe.
Hot cocoa is made from cocoa powder but hot chocolate is made from real chocolate pieces melted into milk or cream. If you love chocolate, you’ll love this recipe! Ingredients
Directions
1-3/4 cup 2% milk Or use 2 cups non-dairy products like almond or soy milk.
In sauce pan, combine the milk, the half & half, and any flavourings or spices of your choice.
1/4 cup 10% coffee cream
Bring milk to a low simmer, stirring often. Be careful not to scald the milk.
Brown sugar (optional, to taste — this will add some sweetness and a butterscotch flavour note to your cup of hot chocolate)
Remove from heat, cover, and let the flavours infuse into the warm milk for 2 to 5 minutes (longer for a stronger flavour — experiment!).
1/2 cup chopped couverture chocolate, or chocolate drops, or 2 of our 56g chocolate bars, chopped We like using bittersweet, but you can use your favourite flavour of chocolate, and even blend milk chocolate and dark chocolate if you’d like.
Pour the milk through a strainer into a bowl (if you are not using spices or flavouring, you may skip this step).
Flavourings or spices of your choice See below for ideas.
Return the milk to the sauce pan and return to simmer, stirring constantly, being careful not to let the milk scald. Add the chocolate pieces and the sugar (if desired). Whisk until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth but frothy.
There are many flavoured hot chocolates you can make with our basic Hot Chocolate recipe. Here are some of our favourites: London Fog Hot Chocolate: Put one tea bag of Earl Grey Tea in the warm milk and let steep for 3-5 minutes before adding the chocolate. Stir well to combine flavours. Lavender Hot Chocolate: Put 1/2 tsp. lavender in a tea ball and let steep in the warm milk for 3-5 minutes; strain. Pour the milk back into the pan to warm before adding the chocolate; whisk. Mexican Hot Chocolate: Add 1/4 tsp. (or to taste) of Ancho chilli powder into the warm milk and chocolate, then whisk to combine. Cayenne powder can be used instead of Ancho chilli powder for more of a kick. Chai Hot Chocolate: Steep a bag of Chai tea in the warm milk for 3-5 minutes before adding the chocolate; whisk. See our recipes blog for more flavour combinations!
Pour into mugs and, if you prefer, top with whipped cream, chocolate shavings, or marshmallows.
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@CococoChocolates
ADVERTISING SALES
Ellen Kelly ellen@savourcalgary.ca Martin Robillard martin@savourcalgary.ca WEBSITE TECHNICAL ADVISOR
Todd Robertson web@savourcalgary.ca DISTRIBUTION
James Norman distribution@savourcalgary.ca PRINTING
CentralWeb Savour Calgary is a bi-monthly magazine published by Savour Calgary Ltd. Savour Calgary is published six times per year. Winter, Early Spring, Late Spring, Summer, Fall, Holiday 403.475.5809 info@savourcalgary.ca P O S T M A I L : c/o 153 Somercrest Circle S.W., Calgary, AB T2Y3H1 PHONE:
EMAIL:
FO R M O RE I N FO RM AT I O N S E E U S AT
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FO R E D I T O RI A L I N Q U I RI E S C O N TAC T
camie@savourcalgary.ca
Shop in our stores or online www.CococoChocolatiers.com #ChocolateTogether @Cococo_Chocolates
Wanda Baker Shelley Boettcher Philip Coppard Jamie Harling Brit Hart Stacey Hilscher Ellen Kelly Mitch Kern Meg Kibyuk Tanya Schaap Grace Wang
C O N TAC T I N FO RM AT I O N
chocolate chocolate together together
Scan for more recipes
CONTRIBUTORS
@ChocBernCal
Savour Calgary has made all efforts to ensure that content in the magazine is accurate on the date of publication. The views expressed in the articles reflect the author(s) opinions and do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher or editor. The published material, advertisements, editorials and photographs along with all other content is published in good faith and Savour Calgary cannot guarantee and accepts no liability for any loss or damage of any kind caused by any errors, omissions and for the accuracy of claims made by the advertisers or any other contributors. All trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner and Savour Calgary will be held harmless in the event that the advertiser or contributor has submitted trademarks for which they do not have authorization from the owner. All rights reserved by Savour Calgary and nothing can be partially or in whole be reprinted or reproduced without the written consent of the publisher at Savour Calgary Ltd.
Savour selects
Percilla Rubio Gutscher
T O P P I C K S f rom Savour staf f | S A V O U R S E L E C T S
Wanda Baker
NEVER PHOGET
Beef seven courses
Rau Bistro Viet Eatery | 806 Centre Street N. 587.352.2506 | raubistroyyc.ca
Cam Do didn’t know she would love cooking as much as she does until she arrived in Calgary in 2002 and started working with family at the now-closed Saigon Restaurant. Inspired by her aunt Thu La, Do went on to attend the culinary program at SAIT. This experience and training led her to open Rau Bistro in Highwood in 2016 with support from family and partner Linh La. Having outgrown their space, they sold the store and closed shop on March 15, 2020, just as Covid was infiltrating the world. Eventually they fell in love with a new location, did some renos and have re-opened in Crescent Heights Village, much to the delight of their loyal clientele. Several of the previous menu items have carried over, but the team has also introduced new items, getting rave reviews. The Viet beef seven-course set is a unique and fun meal to share with friends and family. Two of us tucked into this dish along with appies and the grilled meats combo called wrap your roll. Each dish was fresh, delicious and memorable. The menu features something for everyone including vegan options.*
EAT, DRINK, PLANT
Forbidden rice panna cotta with house
Percilla Rubio granola, blood oranges and nasturtium Gutscher of Brekkie and Sammie Café and her team have embarked on a new adventure with Maven, a brand-new eatery on 17th Ave. S.W. The café features brunch, cocktails, and a plant shop (yes, we said plant shop!) Located in the former Yum Bakery Cafe, Maven features a curated cocktail program by friends at Milk Tiger Restaurant, a brunch-inspired menu by Chef Michelle Lee Hobbs, and plants in the back area, which was once a cheese shop before it became a patisserie. Plant it Modern, provides Maven with unique, exotic and classic plants and gifts. Future plans include opening for dinner, so don’t be surprised to find pork ball congee and Lanzhou braised beef cheeks with spaetzle on the menu. Maven | 1006 17th Ave. S.W. | 403.457.7898
Second Location: This Year in Greenwich *Hosted our meal, but did not approve the story
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Named in the Top 40 Under 40 for 2021, brothers Gil and Jeff Carlos are taking the breakfast world by storm. In 2015, they opened local breakfast chain Bro’Kin Yolk and have since added two more locations to the mix in Calgary, and one in Edmonton. Last fall they opened Bro’s To Go, with a second location in the works this year. And if that doesn’t keep them busy enough, they’ve also partnered with World Bier Haus to open Morning Brunch Co. While each eatery offers breakfast, they all have their own charm. Bro’s To Go is the cooler, hipper little brother offering take-out and a teaser of the dine-in restaurant. Morning Brunch Co. offers a simpler menu keeping it classic giving the feeling of a home cooked meal. Big brother Bro’Kin Yolk has a playful menu in a sit-down restaurant with Filipino and other Asian influences. Their love for community has them giving back as regularly as possible by supporting causes like Mealshare, Kid Sport Calgary and BB4CK. What we love about these guys is they cater to the rural community, are farm to fork, and offer their ready-to-cook house-cured bacon to go. Bro’Kin Yolk | brokinyolk.ca | Bro’s To Go | brostogo.ca Morning Brunch Co. | morningbrunch.com
Burwood Distillery is an award-winning, locally owned, Calgary distillery that started as an idea between friends and family and grew into a well-decorated mainstay in the local craft market. The goal was to design a gathering place to celebrate Alberta's agriculture through premium and tasty spirits. The distillery (admittedly one of our favourite haunts in the north) is moving to a new home in the historic stables building in Currie Barracks. “The Stables,” built in 1936, is one of the first structures on these grounds. Here Burwood will increase production of spirits, feature a full-service restaurant with a patio, and continue to offer tours, tastings, and merchandise. They’ve recently added five new gins, two new whiskies plus canned and bottled cocktails to the portfolio. Find them at Bountiful Market in Edmonton, Granary Road and Crossroads Market in Calgary and opening at the Currie Barracks Stables this spring/summer. Burwood Distillery | 2566 Flanders Ave. S.W. burwooddistillery.ca
Wanda Baker
Jesse Elliot Photography
Jeff and Gil Carlos
FARM TO FORK
CRAFTING CONNECTIONS
HAVE YOUR CAKE AND EAT IT TOO When you don’t have time to bake your own cake, or plan a party, it’s nice to leave it to the experts. Tanya Kaynes started Menagerie Parties and Cakes in 2020 after 20 years in event planning at the Calgary Zoo. With a natural aptitude for baking and an appearance on Food Network’s Big Bake, Tanya took the plunge and opened her own business, creating enchanting cakes and Captain America cake unforgettable experiences for kids of all ages. Tanya’s specialty is theme parties, allowing her to flex creative muscle. Her aim is to bake a cake that doesn’t necessarily look like a cake but packs a flavour punch. Our guilty pleasure was a vanilla bean cake with a pecan pie and peach Schnapps filling made in the shape of Captain America. Menagerie Parties & Cakes | 403.890.4803 | menagerieyyc.ca
ESCAPE ORDINARY Destination: Fine Dining at Home
All occasion catering for 2–100 3, 4, or 5 course customized menu options for lunch, brunch or dinner. Non-Kosher Jewish catering. Meraki-on-the-Go food truck Seasonally available for private functions. Traditional family meals. Classics with new twists. Creative new dishes. In-home Chef services. Gift Certificates available.
AN INSIPIRED MENU 1ST COURSE
2ND COURSE | PICTURED
MAIN
DESSERT
Shitake mushroom soup with chives
Roasted pear, arugula and candied pecan salad with blackberry balsamic vinaigrette
Beef tenderloin with madeira, peppercorn jus, mushrooms and garlic mash, sauteed green beans
Chocolate Torte
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merakicuisine.ca 403.619.COOK (2665)
Dining in the dark
Camie Leard
The Sensory 101, 300 Old Canmore Rd. Canmore | 403.812.0837 thesensory.ca
JUST DINING IN THE DARK
NEW MENU ALERT
Canmore’s The Sensory restaurant is turning the lights out in 2022 with its new dining in the dark dinners. In all fairness, the lights stay on and it’s the diners who wear blindfolds as they use taste, touch and smell to enjoy a delicious mystery on their plates. We were able to attend a trial run in December and it was a super-fun way to spend some quality time with your date. We found ourselves eating mostly with our hands as cutlery is particularly challenging without your eyes and, well, it’s more fun that way. You can order a wine pairing if you like, and your server will take pictures of your meals for you so you can see what you ate when the blindfolds come off.*
We’re always happy to get an invitation to Flores & Pine in Bearspaw as the food is always great, the room is beautiful and the place is always bustling with patrons ranging from those enjoying a business lunch to families taking a break from cooking on a Friday night. Flores & Pine launched its new menu in December adding some new treats to some old favourites to keep things fresh Tomahawk board and interesting all year long. New sharables include fresh burrata with warm focaccia, a garlicky bison carpaccio and the F&P house-smoked salmon. We opted for an old favourite brought back in the crab poutine, which was everything amazing about poutine… plus crab! So delicious. A beet carpaccio on the salad menu is getting some attention, while the pizza menu welcomes a new veggie pie as well as a Moroccan lamb pizza for something deliciously different. You’ll find a bunch of new entrees and sides on the menu as well as the signature wood-fired grill favourites. If you’re looking for a spectacular shareable meal, order the tomahawk board, which is back on the menu by popular demand. This impressive feast features a beautiful steak done to your taste with charred leeks, roasted mushrooms, house-cut fries, roasted beets, grilled asparagus, fried egg, confit of garlic and brown butter and other delights. This will always be a memorable meal to share with your favourite people.*
HELLO, GORGEOUS If you haven’t made it to Hello Sunshine in Banff yet, do try to get there this winter. Decked out like a Japanese ramen house meets an alpine ski lodge, Hello Sunshine creates a unique sense of place. Killer cocktails by bar manager Sam Clark are just the start of the fun here. We enjoyed happy hour ramen specials and the most delicious matcha coladas made with Jolene’s Tea House tea. Feel like belting out a tune or two? Call your friends and rent a private karaoke room to take full advantage of the liquid courage you got at the bar.*
MAY THE TACOS BE WITH YOU Native Tongues Taqueria rolled out a new menu this past fall with some old favourites mingling with fresh flavours. New menu items include a delicious taco de cameron (shrimp), a queso fundido that takes cheese to the next level and a crema de elote (corn) soup that is the perfect tonic for a cold winter day. The completely revamped cocktail menu is Star Wars themed with fun names like Last Jedi Rey Skywalker and Punch it, Chewie! We loved the Naboo Blossom Padme Amidala and the Jedi Killer Kylo Ren, which mixes mezcal, ancho reyes verde, ruby port, blue cheese and plum shrub for a unique and delicious cocktail.
Matcha coladas
Hello Sunshine 101, 208 Wolf St., Banff | 403.985.7225 hellosunshinebanff.com
Camie Leard
Photo provided
T O P P I C K S f rom Savour staf f | S A V O U R S E L E C T S
Flores & Pine | 254028 Bearspaw Rd. | 403.241.7611 | floresandpine.com
Comfort food.
Camie Leard
Native Tongues Taqueria | 235 12th Ave. S.W. 403.263.9444 | nativetongues.ca
Tempura at Lonely Mouth
Lonely Mouth Bar 528 17th Ave. S.W. 403.990.5094 lonelymouthbar.com
LONELY MOUTH CLUB kuchisabishii 口寂しい. When you're not hungry, but you eat because your mouth is lonely. Concorde Group is on a roll. Its latest outing, Lonely Mouth Bar on 17th Ave. S.W., adds to the group’s collection of beautiful, well-lit, retro-chic dining rooms – this one with a Japanese flavour to serve as a backdrop for the food. Specializing in udon noodles, Lonely Mouth has the city’s only custom udon-making machine to ensure the noodles come out perfectly, every time. Enjoy them in a soup broth with shaved beef, onsen egg or shredded chicken. A highlight for us was the bluefin tuna tartare with avocado, a heavenly miso emulsion and crispy, salty udon crackers. This is one of those dishes you remember months later as practically perfect. For dessert, the sweet potato doughnuts served with miso caramel and sesame gelato hit all the right notes with a warm, creamy texture and a unique blend of sweetness and umami that is a great way to end the meal. *Hosted our meal, but did not approve the story
KENSINGTON : 1081 2ND AVENUE NW | 403.287.8544 SPRUCE CLIFF / WILDWOOD : 8 SPRUCE CENTER SW | 403.452.3960 MAHOGANY : 2171 MAHOGANY BLVD SE | 587.623.1144 CROWFOOT CROSSING : 826 CROWFOOT CRESCENT NW | 403.241.3475
@piejunkieyyc | piejunkie.ca
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Camie Leard
Buffalo Mountain Lodge’s The Prow restaurant underwent an overhaul last year completely revamping the dining room and the menu. The décor still celebrates a sense of place as a mountain lodge, while adding some modern splashes of colour and materials. The menu, too, is new with mountainthemed tapas, game meats, excellent shareables and pastas. We absolutely loved the okonomiyaki fries, which took inspiration from the savoury Japanese pancake – a popular street food in Hiroshima and Osaka. The Prow tops a plate of crispy, handcut shoestring fries with kewpie mayo, their house barbecue sauce, bonito flakes, toasted sesame seeds and green onion.* Prow's okonomiyaki fries
The Prow at Buffalo Mountain Lodge 700 Tunnel Mountain Rd., Banff 403.760.4484 | crmr.com
Photo provided
ON THE PROW FOR GREAT FOOD
HIDDEN GEM: TEA WITH HEART The Noble Teahouse in High River is a labour of love created by five women: Joelene Smart, Kim Courtney, Rebecca Lindsay, Anita Mackenzie and Claudette Summers. Kim is the director of The Narrow Road Home, an in-house healing recovery program for women and Joelene, who has been through the program, is the operations manager of the teahouse. Located in a Victorian home built by John and Anne Noble in 1909, the teahouse offers women in recovery a place to work, somewhere to belong and an opportunity to learn new skills while contributing to their community. Afternoon tea is available every week by reservation from Thursday – Sunday and features sweet and savory treats to enjoy with your tea. Pre-order a charcuterie or a luxury box to elevate your experience. The profit from every cup of tea and scone served in the tea house goes directly to support local rehabilitation programs. Joelene says the group is committed to helping women and is proud of the Teahouse and all the women who have overcome so much. Follow them on Facebook or Instagram for new items, features and news. The Noble Teahouse | 440 Macleod Tr. S.W. High River | 403.978.7391 | thenobleteahouse.com Afternoon tea at The Noble Tea House
C E L E B R AT I N G 1 0 Y E A R S
Providing Premium Alberta raised Wagyu • Restaurants • Retail • Consumers
507 - 42 AVENUE SE CALGARY AB | 587 352.3311 | BRANTLAKEWAGYU.CA
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*Hosted our meal, but did not approve the story
W H A T ’ S F R E S H this season | F R E S H M A R K E T
Pineapple B y E L L E N K E L LY I l l u s t ra t i on b y A L I S ON M A RT I N With a paucity of anything remotely local or seasonal this time of year, we look to the tropics to lighten our hearts as well as our stomachs. A pineapple in February is a celebration, nothing less. Another curious culinary appellation, the pineapple is a product of neither a pine tree nor an apple tree. It is, in fact, a bromeliad and called a “compound fruit,” consisting of many berries grown together. When Columbus brought it home from Guadeloupe in 1493, the Spanish named it piñas, meaning pine cone, because it, well, looked like a pine cone. As it moved through Europe, the English tagged on “apple” to let people know that this prickly-looking creature was indeed a fruit and therefore edible. In the 17th century, being both exotic and rare, pineapples became status symbols, announcing wealth and prestige. Ironically, they were often not even eaten, having been kept out as prized centrepieces for so long they rotted before anyone could enjoy the fruit. We still tend to associate pineapples with Hawaii even though most of the fruit we see today is grown in Southeast Asia. Dole plantations in Hawaii (at their peak from 1903 until the ’70s) are credited with almost single-handedly introducing pineapples to the average North American, mostly through their range of innovative canned products. Picture pineapple upside-down cakes and baked hams festooned with canned pineapple slices and maraschino cherries. Old-fashioned today, perhaps, but pretty fancy at the time. Likely stemming from the same period, I offer you a treasured cranberry/pineapple jelly salad recipe in memory of Alice Schuld. Before you turn up your nose, this is delicious and has completely replaced cranberry sauce in my world. I make it all year long, always have the ingredients on hand and rarely share. Dissolve two packets of lemon Jell-O in 375ml (1½ cups) boiling water. Add one can of whole berry cranberry sauce and mix well. Allow to partially set in the fridge and then stir in 10ml (2 tsp) orange zest, 1 can drained crushed pineapple and 125ml (½ cup) diced celery. Return to the fridge and leave at least 4 hours or overnight to set up.
While fresh pineapple is a welcome addition to your morning yogurt or fruit salad, I prefer pineapple jam. Pineapple doesn’t have much pectin, but it’s very easy to make into a jam and cooks to a nice consistency, nonetheless. One fresh pineapple, peeled and cored, should give you about 750 ml (3 cups) of crushed fruit. Either finely chop by hand or use a food processor (don’t over-process to a puree; leave some texture). Just remember that pineapple is very fibrous and does not break down the same way most other fruits do. The size you chop the pineapple is the size it will be in the jam. Combine the fruit with 375 ml (1½ cups) sugar, 30 ml (2 Tbsp) fresh lime juice and 15 ml (1 Tbsp) grated fresh ginger. Bring to a boil and boil hard for 25-30 minutes, until jam is slightly caramelized and mounds on a spoon. Jar and keep in the fridge or seal and process as you would any jam. Pineapples are high in fibre and vitamin C, low in calories, and boast antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties. They also contain an enzyme (bromelain) that aids in digestion – the same enzyme that makes pineapple an effective meat tenderizer. Superfood, and just when we need it.
While a can of pineapple, whether crushed, chunked or sliced, is indeed a handy pantry item, nothing compares to fresh, although peeling one for the first time can be a bit daunting. With a large sharp knife, slice off both the leafy crown and bottom of the fruit. Set it upright on a board and begin to slice away the coarse outer skin from top to bottom until entirely peeled; trim up any remaining “eyes” and bits of peel. The core is not edible and must be removed. Since I usually don’t need pineapple “rings”, I slice the fruit vertically into quarters thereby making it easy to cut away the core. An exception is grilling pineapple on the barbeque which is easier to do with the core intact. Slice a peeled pineapple into 1- to 2-cm (1/2- to 3/4-inch) rounds and cook, brushing with a mixture of melted honey, butter, and cinnamon, until grill-marked and caramelized. Equally lovely adorning a baked ham (sans cherries, please) or served with vanilla ice cream. Colour, which largely depends on where the pineapple was grown, doesn’t determine ripeness; being able to easily pull out a leaf from the crown isn’t a reliable method either. Pineapples don’t ripen after they’re harvested. They’ll soften somewhat if left out for a day or two at room temperature but will not get any sweeter. Choose a pineapple that is heavy in the hand, has pliable green leaves and is firm, but with a slight give when gently squeezed; the bottom of the fruit should smell fragrant and sweet. Eschew any overly soft fruit with dry dull leaves or obvious blemishes. Wrap the entire thing in cling film and refrigerate for up to five days if you’re not using it right away.
OUR CHEDDAR sale!
ALL OF JANUARY & FEBRUARY WILL MAKE YOU MELT! Mac & Cheese, grilled sandwiches, fondue… Endless possibilities! Find us at Crossroads Market, 1225 26 Ave SE | Fri-Sun, 9am-5pm For sales and specials, follow us on Instagram @SayCheeseyyc, Facebook at Say Cheese Fromagerie, and Twitter @Saycheeseshop. W I N T ER 2022 S AVO U RC A LG A RY.c a
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In In celebration of Valentine’s Day
tche
n
Ki
and all things romantic, we caught up with the saucy couple behind Jane Bond BBQ for this month’s In My Kitchen feature. Chef Jenny Burthwright and her wife, business partner and occasional sous-chef, Adrienne Keith sizzle in and out of the kitchen. As their home kitchen is set for a renovation, we grilled them at their restaurant instead.
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Mitch Kern
How well do you cook together? JENNY: When we do cook together, we cook like a team – and by team, I mean Adrienne is my sous-chef (laughs.)
Who cooks at home? ADRIENNE: Jenny mostly prepares the weekday meals in advance. Then I put it together while adding small touches to keep it interesting. A meal on a day off or a more special occasion is a combined effort: Jenny cooks the protein and I make the salads or other filler.
What does a romantic dinner look like for you? JENNY: Eating with our hands and finishing off with a bike ride by the river with our two dogs. ADRIENNE: Picnic meals with simple and rich ingredients, the winter version would be eating next to a fire.
Your one-stop connection to Brazil!
What ingredient couldn't you live without? JENNY: Jasmine rice. It’s the base for most meals in our house.
What food is your guilty pleasure? JENNY: Kraft Dinner. Although recently moved to a gluten-free version so it’s not as guilty….or at least I don’t suffer as much when I eat it. ADRIENNE: Copious amounts of British and French cheeses.
What is your favourite go-to meal in under 10 minutes? ADRIENNE: Ribeye steak and stir-fry. It helps having someone with knife skills in the house and premade sauces ready to go in the fridge to make it a 10-minute meal!
What's your favourite restaurant in town (other than your own, of course?) JENNY: In keeping with the theme of eating with your hands, we love Abyssinia Restaurant featuring Ethiopian and Eritrean cuisine. If you want to be transported to another place the ambiance, decor, loud warm music and coffee culture there will do it.
How do you cook differently at home than you do for the restaurant? JENNY: BBQ has many processes from brining to rubbing to smoking for up to 12 hours. At home we keep it simple by mostly grilling and eating our veggies. Veggies can be a bit of a dirty word in BBQ culture (laughs.)
We deliver anywhere in Canada.
136 2 Street SW, Calgary AB BRAZILCONNECTION.CA
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Dwarf Stars
VEGAN CHOCOLATE SUPERNOVA Eating healthier is on the agenda this year and we were excited to discover nut free, gluten-free, dairy-free vegan chocolate that tastes amazing and is made right here in Calgary. It’s like we can have our cake, (chocolate) and eat it too. Dwarf Stars was created in 2018 by Kathryn Kozody and red seal chef Gerrit Janssen. The pair wanted to ensure everyone, allergies or not, could enjoy chocolate. Their first product was dry-roasted chickpeas covered in pumpkin-seed butter and vegan chocolate which looked like little asteroids, inspiring their astrological business name. The team has since expanded their offerings to include small chocolates, baking chocolate and bars plus seasonal items made using ethically-sourced cocoa products. The bonbons are a lovely gift to give, or receive, but the pumpkin-seed keto butter cups might be one of our favourite things. The product is currently available at 400 retailers across Canada and, with a possible expansion into the US market, this is a team reaching for the stars. Galaxy Bonbon gift boxes | Dwarf Stars | $26.99 | dwarfstars.ca Dwarf Stars Galaxy Bonbon gift box
Meghan De Bastiani
Shop Local! In writing this column one phrase keeps coming to mind, “You can’t keep a good person down.” In the face of adversity, our community continues to show resilience. We’ve discovered the most delicious locally made vegan chocolate and pancake mixes, new products to spice up our cooking, resources to prevent food waste and quality Italian tomatoes that really make a difference in taste. TOMATO PIONEERS
When alpine ski racer Alannah Raelene Jensen moved west, it was to become a surgeon. But life took her in another direction. She developed the first North American all-girls free-ride ski program, owned a wholesale cookie company, a bakery café and a cake shop in Banff before eventually settling into her own catering company in Cochrane. In 2008, Alannah formed a DIY line of products and in 2010, it became Lannie Rae Gourmet. In her commercial kitchen they craft an assortment of artisan pancake and waffle mixes to suit every taste. Discover a Stampede mix, summer and birthday mixes right through to Valentine’s Day options (we recommend the cherry Amaretto for your sweetie). All mixes can be made vegan by substituting milk alternatives, flax eggs and coconut oil. Check out the website for ordering information.
Lannie Rae gourmet pancakes
Scarpone’s and Rega jarred & canned tomatoes | The Italian Store, Calgary Co-op Grocery Store | $1.99 - $4.99 | scarpones.com Wanda Baker
PANCAKES AND WAFFLES MADE EASY
For more than 60 years Scarpone’s has been packing and distributing authentic tomato products in Italy and locally. They are pioneers in bringing Italian products to Calgary and continue to focus on quality, ethical ingredients from vetted producers. A 30-year partnership with Rega, a 100-year-old company in Naples, Italy known for San Marzano tomatoes grown at the base of Mt. Vesuvio, ensures their commitment to quality products. The Rega line includes regular, organic, and D.O.P-certified tomatoes, all picked fresh in Italy. The Scarpone’s tomato products are also picked fresh during harvest then packed for shipping. These products include fire-roasted tomatoes from California, Italian tomatoes for the fresh passata sauce and Canadian tomatoes available in whole, crushed, diced, and paste. Scarpone’s offers an assortment of Italian products in The Italian Store and grocery stores across western Canada.
Pancake and waffle mixes | Lannie Rae Gourmet $15.00 - $16.00 | lannieraegourmet.com
Scarpones and Rega tomatoes
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PREVENTING FOOD WASTE
GONNA MAKE YOU SWEAT
If you are as challenged as we are when it comes to keeping fruits and vegetables fresh, you are going to love these Canadian hemp pads. HempFresco Organic Food Pads by Calgary-based Canadian Greenfield Technologies are meant to extend the shelf life of produce for up to 45 days. They are ultra-absorbent and will absorb additional moisture, liquids and gases from the produce slowing the spoilage, providing odor control, and increasing freshness. The unique antibacterial and antimicrobial properties in the pads work to prevent the unwanted bacteria from happening. Made from 100 per cent renewable eco-friendly Canadian hemp core granules, they contain no chemicals and are compostable. Use them as a liner in your refrigerator vegetable crisper or in your fruit bowls.
Empire Provisions and Lil’ Empire owners Karen Kho and David Sturies continue to build their empire by launching Knockout Heat Co. with partner Kevin Nelson. What started as a love of all things spicy has turned into four new hot sauces created for those who love to cook, and love to eat. These small-batch fermented sauces are made using local ingredients, and they pack a punch. They include serrano vinegar, red habanero hot sauce, habanero peach hot sauce and serrano lime hot sauce. The chili’s in these hot sauces will make you sweat and ignite the fire within offering a unique, spicy Valentine’s Day gift. Find them online and in-store at Empire Provisions. Follow the website or social channels for information and new product updates.
Hemp-Fresco™ organic food pads Safeway, Sobey’s, IGA $19.99 | hempalta.com
Knockout Heat Co.
Canadian Greenfield Technologies
E A T S and Treats | S H O P L O C A L
Knockout hot sauces Knockout Heat Co. | $12.00 knockoutheat.com
Hemp-Fresco organic food pads
Knockout hot sauces
Nonna approved comfort food staples to get you through winter. Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.
italiancentre.ca
EDMONTON | CALGARY | SHERWOOD PARK
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Calgary couples cookin’ up romance in the kitchen B y S H E L L E Y B OE T TC H E R
If you work in the restaurant industry, you likely don’t do much — except work — on Valentine’s Day. While other couples meet for romantic meals, you’re setting the stage for their special day. But there’s still plenty of romance in the restaurant industry. Everywhere you turn, you’ll find couples in the kitchen in Calgary.
Photo provided
Photo by Eluvier Acosta
HEY GOOD LOOKIN’
Heather + JP Pedhirney Heather and JP Pedhirney met while working together at Parkerhouse restaurant, an eatery that briefly operated downtown a decade or so ago. Sparks may have flown — no one confesses — but the pair kept things professional. JP went to work in Chicago for a time, and Heather started working at Rouge. The pair reconnected a few years ago at Rouge, and the rest is history. JP is now the Concorde Group’s vicepresident, culinary operations, while Heather is the operations manager for River Cafe and Deane House. And they still love to talk about — and eat — good food. “We’ve had some really romantic dinners,” says JP, recounting tales of unforgettable feasts at Hotel Villa Franca in Italy, and the three Michelin-starred Alinea in Chicago. “We definitely have a shared passion for our industry, and for eating out.” But they’re just as happy at home on a rare night together, off from work. “Any time we can sit down together is romantic, I think,” Heather says. “I love any Italian pasta, but I also love when we do a hot pot together, too.” JP’s the best cook, but Heather’s organized. “When JP cooks at home, he cooks like he’s in a restaurant,” she says, laughing. “I have to remind him that he doesn’t have a souschef to clean up after him. I’m his sous chef at home. He goes through so many dish rags!” As for a Valentine’s Day meal together? Highly unlikely, they both say simultaneously. They’ll be busy at work that night, one of the busiest days in the year for anyone in the business.
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Vanessa Rundell + Pierre Lamielle Pierre Lamielle and Vanessa Rundell have long been part of Calgary’s culinary scene. Lamielle is a cookbook author, chef, caterer and culinary instructor, while Rundell has worked at Rouge, Bow Valley Ranche Restaurant and The Lake House on Bonavista. The two met when Lamielle was emceeing a culinary event at the Calgary Stampede. Rundell — chef and owner of Preserved — had her jams in the event’s black box and was offering tastings nearby. Now they live together on a farm near Okotoks, where they are creating a garden and expanding Rundell’s food business. “We make pickles, jams and preserves, all from Alberta-grown ingredients,” she says. Lamielle does most of the cooking at home — but he relishes the days when Rundell takes over. “Vanessa makes the most incredible barbecue. I think she should compete,” Lamielle says. “She’s a great chef, much better than I am.” Who’s messiest in the kitchen? They both laugh. “Pierre thinks it’s me, but I think it’s him,” says Rundell.
Photo by Mint Photography
W hat’s cooking | C U L I N A R Y C O U P L E S
Michal Lavi + Aviv Fried Park by Sidewalk Citizen instantly conjures up romance with its sharing menu and modern yet cozy interior, made for everything from casual dates to intimate weddings. Perhaps it’s not surprising, then, to hear that Aviv Fried and Michal Lavi, the couple who own it and Sidewalk Citizen Bakery, have been sharing meals for more than 27 years. “Aviv is the best cook by far. We both agree on this,” says Lavi, adding that she loves a good roast chicken, roasted potatoes and salad. But if she was to make a romantic meal for him, she’d spend time roasting peppers for his favourite sauce, “or really, I’d make him anything that was hearty and vegetarian.”
32 YEARS
STRONG
Personal Fitness Instruction Inc. Personal Training Nutritional Consulting
Helping our clients live healthier lives – one workout at a time
CULINARY LEGENDS DWAYNE AND ALBERTA ENNEST ARE AT THE NASH RESTAURANT TOGETHER. ALBERTA IS RESTAURANT MANAGER, WHILE DWAYNE IS EXECUTIVE CHEF. THEN THERE’S FIONA AND GIUSEPPE DI GENNARO. THEY MET IN LONDON, ENGLAND IN 1989 AND ARE NOW THE CO-OWNERS OF COTTO RESTAURANT IN KENSINGTON. AND THERE ARE MANY, MANY MORE.
Nhi Tran + Tanner Ennis Paper Lantern co-owners Nhi Tran and Tanner Ennis discovered a shared passion for good food while working in the oil and gas world. When the two became disenchanted with their corporate careers, they began making plans for Paper Lantern. Tran had worked at her family’s restaurant, the now-defunct Orchid Room, while doing an accounting degree, and says it felt like the right time to start something new. “We didn’t want to be corporate kids anymore,” she says. Opening in June 2020, Paper Lantern quickly gained a following for its on-trend cocktails and Vietnamese cuisine. As for a favourite romantic meal? “It’s always changing,” Tran says. “We like going out to new places and supporting local spots. It’s not just about one place.”
W
e work with people of all shapes and sizes but we love working with clients who want to fight ageing every step of the way,” says One on One owner Sandra Bueckert (pictured below). “Age is the great equalizer and at 55, I’m a part of the resistance.” “I chose One on One many years ago as I wanted to gain muscle and become stronger,” says Elizabeth Walsh, a 20-year client. “I knew the best way for me was to be with experts and to have appointments I would not miss.” There are no fads or gimmicks at One on One. It’s the home of sweat equity.
Workouts for clients looking to reach their goals online or in-person are by appointment only. “Every client has different goals and different issues to consider. We get it. We understand. We’re aware that getting started can feel overwhelming. Our aim is to simplify the process for you,” says Sandra. “Together, we’ll sit down and discuss your fitness goals, nutrition, health history, work schedule and so much more. This will allow us to custom design a solid fitness plan for you.”
the u gain o y d e i D nd som a 5 1 COVID s Curves? ma Christ a today for your
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But it is always about being together. In fact, the couple married in June 2021 at Orchard, one of their favourite local restaurants. “We’re pretty much together 24 hours a day these days,” says Tran. “People joke that it’s not the life they’d want with their partner, but we’re really happy.”
www.oneononefitness.ca
1516 17 Ave. SW, Calgary, AB • 403.244.9059 • oneononefitness@shaw.ca
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SmokeShow
Whether
you’re fine dining or grabbing
an ice cream, Calgary’s got some pleasing
plates that are as much a feast for the eyes as they are for the palate. We set out to find some of the handsomest head-turners on
Calgary menus. Here are just a few we found. 16 JA N UA RY » F EB RUA RY 2022 S AVO U RC A LG A RY.c a
Cut Cooking
Cut Cooking
B y G R AC E WA NG w i t h f i l e s f rom S avou r s t a f f
Feast your eyes on Aush-e-reshteh at Caspian Market
Persian cuisine has a wealth of soups, among them aush-e-reshteh, a thick soup commonly served during gatherings, Nowruz, and Ramadan. It contains an abundance of fresh herbs, beans, traditional noodles, and kashk, a unique Persian yogurt. Farah Soltani of Caspian Market shares that “almost every Iranian food is garnished before serving” and aush-ereshteh is no exception, with fried onions, garlic, and mint artfully arranged on top in complex patterns.
Caspian Market | 3404 3rd Ave. N.W.| 587.352.3736 Instagram: @caspiansupermarket
Smoking Jacket at Proof
For Reece Southern, bar manager at Proof Cocktail Bar, a cocktail is appreciated three ways. “First, you drink it with your eyes, then with your nose, and finally, with a sip,” he says. The bar’s “Smoking Jacket” Bourbon cocktail is certainly a treat for the senses. It’s a smoky take on a classic old fashioned, with a mix of peated scotch, bitters and sugar, all covered in a fine haze of cherrywood smoke. Proof Cocktail Bar | 1302 1st St. S.W. 403.246.2414 | proofyyc.com
Cut Cooking
Photo provided
Photo provided by International Avenue BRZ
some of Calgary’s most dashing dishes Halo-halo is the quintessential Filipino dessert—a refreshing mix of fruit, flan, sweet corn, nata de coco, red beans, halayang ube, and crushed ice. Halayang ube is mashed purple yam with condensed milk, coconut milk, and butter. Pacific Hut owner Ron Ala says the key to his restaurant’s popular and colorful halo-halo is their homemade flan and halayang ube.
Pacific Hut Restaurant | 3223 17th Ave. S.E. 403.248.2466 | pacifichut.ca
Happy Camper Sundae at Made by Marcus
Made By Marcus makes beautiful and tasty sundaes, and as team member Brit Savage describes, “Each component has to be delicious on its own as well as contributing to the flavour as a whole.” That’s certainly true of their Happy Camper sundae, with its generous swirl of vanilla soft serve drenched in hot fudge, dusted with graham crumbs, and finished off with a perfectly toasted marshmallow. Made By Marcus | Multiple locations | madebymarcus.ca
Oreo Shake at RE:GRUB
RE:GRUB’s gorgeous, perfectly Instagrammable shakes will satisfy any sweet tooth. According to RE:GRUB’s Shumaila Halani, the Oreomania shake is one of the most popular shakes, and with good reason. It’s a hefty Oreo shake with chocolate drizzle, a heaping dollop of whipped cream, and a pair of freshly deep-fried Oreos.
RE:GRUB| Multiple locations 403.700.0912 | regrub.ca
Lobster Shrimp at Orchard
Calgary’s Orchard Restaurant promises a blend of European and Asian technique and cuisine. Its lobster shrimp appetizer showcases this perfectly: a crispy potato mille feuille topped with yuzu aioli flavoured lobster and shrimp, finished with a mix of salmon caviar, furikake and pickled red onion. On the visual presentation of this stunning dish, owner Andrew Denhamer says, “The most important step… is how to highlight the main ingredient, from there, we try and find contrast through colours and textures.” Orchard Restaurant | #134, 620 10th Ave. S.W. 403.243.2392|orchardyyc.com
Kaieseki at Sukiyaki House
Sukiyaki House’s head chef Koji Kobayashi is no stranger to kaiseki, a formal Japanese multi-course dinner which emphasizes the use of seasonal ingredients and a variety of cooking techniques. While kaiseki has been on hold due to the pandemic, Koji shared that a springtime kaiseki at the restaurant would likely involve ingredients with colors reminiscent of cherry blossoms, and in-season fish like Spanish mackerel. Here’s to hoping that kaiseki returns soon!
Sukiyaki House | #130, 207 9th Ave. S.W. 403.263.3003 | sukiyakihouse.com
Dong Kim
Halo-Halo at Pacific Hut
Katie Eyre Photo provided
Charcuterie Boards at Brie & Banquet
When you order a charcuterie board from Brie and Banquet, you’re getting an edible work of art. With a background in food and interior design, proprietor Katie Eyre is uniquely qualified to make her boards look as good as they taste. “I’m always on the hunt for the prettiest, most interesting and tasty inclusions,” she says. Her favourite ingredients? Edible flowers, fresh figs, local honeycomb, fresh sprouts and herbs, and her in-house dried citrus. Brie & Banquet | 524 42nd Ave. S.E. 403.874.7006 | brieandbanquet.com
Octopus at River Cafe
This eye-catching ring is River Café’s grilled Pacific octopus. Not only is it hot stuff to look at, it packs a spicy punch with a pepper sauce and salami (both house made) with a gorgeous plating and floral garnish. General Manager Heather Pedhirney says this beauty always garners some ooohs and ahhhs at the table. River Café | 25 Prince's Island Park S.W. 403.261.7670 | river-cafe.com
Baked Alaska at Modern Steak
Fire is always mesmerizing, and when you pour it over a gorgeous, textured Italian meringue tableside, it becomes spectacular. Modern Steak’s baked Alaska is an experience as much as it is a dish. With a salted caramel gelato, vanilla sponge cake and tart lemon curd all nestled in that flaming meringue, you’ll want the video rolling when this beauty arrives at your table.
DID WE MISS A STRIKING SPECIALIT Y THAT’S ON YOUR FAVOURITES LIST? SHOW US ON INSTAGRAM AT @SAVOURCALGARY #SAVOURSMOKESHOW.
raclette: an event consisting of melting
cheese and then oozing it onto anything and everything. caution: will result in full bellies, laughter, independent culinary creations and utter satisfaction.
Modern Steak | Multiple Locations 403.244.3600 | modernsteak.ca
A T D A L H O U S I E S T A T I O N 403.286.5220 www.zestkitchenware.com
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B y G R AC E WA NG
Market Report NILA’S TASTE OF INDONESIA:
I LOVE BISCOTTI CO.
The tropical port city of Surabaya feels worlds away from snowy Calgary, especially in January. But thanks to Nila Tulis and her husband Pol Polandari, Calgary is now home to authentic Indonesian dishes and showstopping traditional desserts. The couple started Nila’s Taste of Indonesia two years ago to share cuisine from their hometown with Calgarians.
The thought of biscotti often conjures images of rock-hard cookies, but at I Love Biscotti Co., the exact opposite is true. Monika and Dale Rossi’s biscotti is an original take on the traditional Italian cookie, and provides a satisfying crunch together with a soft, delicate crumb. Each biscotti is handmade and decorated individually, and the care shown comes through in each sweet bite.
Their stall serves up classics like rendang, a stew of tender beef braised in coconut milk and spices like ginger, turmeric and chili peppers. The rendang is served atop a golden rice, which is cooked with turmeric and coconut milk for an added richness, and finished with homemade spicy, salty sambal, a traditional condiment of chilli peppers, garlic and other ingredients. Another popular dish is their satay chicken skewers, which are flavored with peanut, soy sauce and garlic, and grilled to order. But the hidden gem on the menu is undoubtedly the tossed chicken noodles, a large bowl of springy egg noodles and perfectly seasoned savory soup. Each bite is filled with tender chopped chicken, crispy fried onions, fish meatballs and spicy sambal.
Instead of conventional biscotti flavors like almond and pistachio, I Love Biscotti Co. focuses on unique flavors like salted caramel, lemon lavender, and coconut white chocolate. Monika, the baker of the duo, loves to test new seasonal flavours. The couple’s passion for creative biscotti led them to launch I Love Biscotti Co. in 2019 — and it’s a family affair. The couple’s children and relatives can often be found helping with the business.
While Pol manages the entrées, Nila focuses on her specialty, desserts. Kueh lapis is a layered tapioca dessert, with each colorful layer painstakingly poured by hand. It is flavored with sweet coconut milk and has a delightful chewy texture, similar to mochi. Other beautiful desserts include Nila’s thousand-layer baked cake and serabi, a traditional pandan cake with coconut milk and palm sugar. If a trip to Indonesia seems unlikely, make sure to visit Nila’s Taste of Indonesia this winter — you won’t be disappointed. Nila’s Taste of Indonesia | Crossroads Market 1235 26th Ave. S.E. | 403.681.1223 | Facebook: Nila's Taste of Indonesia, Instagram: @nilastasteofindo
While 2020 was a challenging year due to the pandemic, I Love Biscotti Co. grew through participation in farmers’ markets in Calgary and nearby communities. Currently, their biscotti can be found at the Dalhousie Farmers’ Market, the Bearspaw Pop-Up Market on February 13th, and at Main Street Market & More in Okotoks. While the Rossi’s biscotti are soft enough to enjoy without an accompanying drink, they are just as delicious dunked in coffee or milk. As Valentine’s Day approaches, I Love Biscotti Co.’s beautiful biscotti are a tempting treat for a special someone — or yourself!
I Love Biscotti Co.| Dalhousie Farmers’ Market; Bearspaw Pop-Up Market (February 13th) 5432 Dalhart Rd. N.W. (Year-round); 25254 Nagway Rd.| 587.890.1440| ilovebiscottico.com
COME SEE Your New Home For FRESH.LOCAL AFFORDABLE GROCERIES
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5 on $39
from January 10 – 23, 2022 at our NEW Fresh & Local Farm Store in Avenida Village 1 block north of the Canyon Meadows LRT Located next to the Collective Beer Store
D441, 12445 Lake Fraser Drive SE Calgary, AB
Shop online at FreshAndLocalFarmOutlet.com W I N T ER 2022 S AVO U RC A LG A RY.c a
19
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“To understand spices and their uses is to open a door to endless culinary possibility.” Padma Lakshmi Host of Bravo’s Top Chef and author of Spice and Herbs
Spice S t or y a n d ph ot o s b y TA N Y A S C H A A P THE (ABBREVIATED) HISTORY OF SPICE
For thousands of years, we’ve been flavouring our food with what grows nearby and trading our flavours for those who have journeyed from afar. With a long history that dates all the way back to ancient times, the remarkable, complex world of spices offers us a taste of distant lands and exotic cultures. And we’ve got access to some great varieties in Calgary.
Today we might not think much of the tri-colour peppercorns languishing in our peppermills, but they were once highly valued. Known in the spice world as the “king of spices,” pepper dominated the history of the spice trade for centuries. According to Padma Lakshi’s Spice and Herbs, at one time pepper was even worth its weight in gold. While its origins are hazy, pepper is most likely native to India, dating all the way back to 1000 BC. Pepper and other spices like cinnamon and cassia were traded on the Silk Road, a large network of trade routes connecting China and east Asia with the Middle East and Europe. By the time they reached medieval Europe, spices had become a commodity of the wealthy. Peppercorns, in particular, was used to pay taxes and some landlords even accepted “peppercorn rent.” Spices, of course, weren’t only used for cooking. In Egypt, spices like caraway, coriander and peppermint were used as medical treatments. In China, cloves were used to freshen breath and ginger to prevent scurvy. And while we no longer pay taxes in peppercorns (although that might be fun for a change), spices remain a valuable window into the world.
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SPICE ADVICE STORE your spices away from air, light, heat and moisture
BUY whole and grind fresh when you can
EXPERIMENT! Don’t be afraid to play with spice and combine flavours
DON’T BUY your
spice with one use in mind. Be adventurous!
GRIND spices
together and experiment with new combinations
USE spice blends
often – this simplifies cooking without compromising on taste
LOCAL SPICE MERCHANTS We’re lucky to have a number of outstanding locally-owned spice shops here in Calgary. We spoke with three of them to get a better understanding of their passion for spice. The Spice Merchant Crossroads Market | 1235 26th Ave. S.E. After visiting over 120 countries and collecting a wealth of spices along the way, Stephen Gollan, founder of The Spice Merchant and author of the popular travel blog Uncharted Backpacker, knows one thing for sure: every spice comes with a story. Thirteen years ago, in search of ways to fund his passion for travel, Stephen began selling some of the spice blends he had learned to make in India. Now, with a growing business as a spice merchant and a parallel career as a travel photographer, Stephen has made it his goal to bring back the flavour of each area he visits. “Spice connects us to the world around us,” says Stephen. “And I pride myself on personally getting to know every single farmer that produces my spice. On my most recent trip in September of this year, I visited six countries: Georgia, Greece, the Netherlands, Lebanon, Turkey and Iraq. In Georgia, as we headed up to the town of Ushguli via a remote mountain road, I noticed a baba mixing a blend of spice right on her front porch. I could smell it before we even turned the corner. I asked her if she would teach me how to make her blend, a spice mix passed down to her from four generations. We agreed to name it Ushguli to represent her village.”
COLD GRIND ORGANIC Purchase in-store at the Crossroads Market (open Friday-Sunday, 9-5 p.m.) or online at thespicemerchant.ca. And you can follow Stephen’s global adventures on Instagram @unchartedbackpacker. The Silk Road Spice Merchant | 1403A 9th Ave. S.E. In 2008, after the birth of their daughter and a lot of home cooking, husband-and-wife duo Colin Leach and Kelci Hind were surprised to find a lack of speciality shops nearby that treated spices with the same care and respect as coffee and tea. So, they decided to start their own. “We converted our garage to a workspace and spent evenings and weekends planning our business, developing blends and building our website,” says Colin. “In 2009, we opened online and followed that up a few months later with a stall at the Calgary Farmers’ Market.” It wasn’t long before they expanded with stand-alone shops in Calgary and Edmonton. Whether it’s long pepper from Indonesia or fennel pollen from California, the team at Silk Road knows their product. In addition to a wide range of single spices, they also feature a variety of blends. Purchase in person at their Inglewood shop or online at silkroadspices.ca.
Hot off the set of CBC’s Dragons’ Den, Calgarians Kushan and Princey Bharthi are set to take the spice industry by storm. Their company sells 100 per cent organic spices that are grown, harvested, sun-dried and blended in India and then cold-ground, a rare process that helps retain the essential oils in the spices, resulting in an elevated spice experience. “Our turmerics are brighter, our cinnamon smells cleaner and our curry is out of this world,” says Kushan. “We wanted to bring something creative to the spice space.” They source all their spices from India and are constantly seeking farmers with a high level of care for their product. In addition to their popular Indian spice blends, Cold Grind Organic also carries a variety of other options including a steak spice and an everything bagel seasoning. If you’re wondering if they landed a deal with one of the Dragons, the answer is yes. Purchase online at coldgrindorganic.com or in Sobeys, Safeway and Superstore locations.
Stephen grinds all his blends in Calgary. And if you’re lucky enough to catch him between trips, be sure to ask about the stories behind these spices. You won’t regret it.
Your view from our table! PaSu Farm is a country oasis with an air of elegant simplicity that nourishes the soul. Find warmth in the Gallery Shop and take in magnificent mountain views from the restaurant. Our customers enjoy a peacefulness that comforts and calms their spirits.
Every year Pasu Farm does something special for Valentine’s Day. Call for details on our events for this year. 40 minutes north of the city of Calgary | 1.800.679.7999 | www.pasu.com W I N T ER 2022 S AVO U RC A LG A RY.c a
23
S t or y b y BR I T H A RT a n d J A M I E H A R L I NG
RISOTTO WINTER SQUASH AND OYSTER MUSHROOM RISOTTO WITH SQUASH PUREE This issue, we welcome culinary couple Brit Hart (Bricks Wine Co., Vin Room, J. Webb Wine Merchant) and Jamie Harling (Harling Food Co., Rouge, Deane House) to team up and create a warm and romantic masterclass with a wine pairing for those who might want to cook together this Valentine’s Day.
DIRECTIONS
INGREDIENTS Risotto
Squash Puree
Squash
Mushrooms
½ medium winter squash (small dice) (we used butternut)
Other ½ of the squash
Pre-heat oven to 220 C (425 F).
Pre-heat pan over medium heat, add 30 ml (1 Tbsp) oil and 30 ml (1 Tbsp) butter.
454 g (16 oz) oyster mushrooms 60 ml (4 Tbsp) neutral oil 1.5 l (6 cups) chicken stock 30 ml (6 Tbsp) unsalted butter
45 ml (3 Tbsp) maple syrup
Peel the squash and remove the seeds, cut into 1 cm (1/4 inch) squares, toss with 30 ml (2 Tbsp) neutral oil, salt and Malabar spice mix.
30 ml (2 Tbsp) red wine vinegar
Place on parchment-lined tray and place in oven until tender, approximately 20 minutes.
125 ml (½ cup) white wine
Remove from oven and split the squash into two, reserve half for risotto.
15 ml (1 Tbsp) Malabar spice mix or garam masala Water to cover
1 shallot (minced)
Salt to taste
150 g (2/3 cup) carnaroli rice
60 ml (2 Tbsp) butter
Place other half in a medium-sized pott, heat pot over medium heat, add half of white wine and reduce until it's almost dry.
Once melted, add mushrooms and season with salt. Cook until browned and softened, set aside.
Add water to cover and cook another 5 minutes. Remove from heat and blend with an immersion or stand blender. Slowly add butter to emulsify. Season with red wine vinegar and maple syrup.
125 ml (½ cup) white wine 250 ml (1 cup) freshly grated grana padano 125 ml (½ cup) raw, shelled pumpkin seeds Thyme Salt to taste
Toasted Pumpkin Seeds Pre-heat pan over medium heat. Toast toast 125 ml (½ cup) of seeds until golden.
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WINE PAIRING I say this so often but food and wine pairings are like any good relationship. When done well, they can truly surpass the sum of their parts. One of my favourite red varietals is Nebbiolo and it’s a beautiful pairing with this earthy, squash and mushroom risotto. The tart cherry and dried floral notes help to bring out the flavours of the dish while the stinging acidity of Nebbiolo cuts through the richness, cleansing the palate and leaving you wanting another bite. A favourite bottle around our house is Alma Giribaldi Nebbiolo.
Risotto Meanwhile slowly heat chicken stock in a sauce pot. Preheat a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium heat, add 30 ml (1 Tbsp) neutral oil. Add shallots and cook until translucent. Add carnaroli rice and toast, ensure rice is evenly coated in oil. Add thyme. Season with salt. Deglaze with remaining white wine and reduce until almost dry. Add chicken stock in small amounts, stirring constantly,
Culinary couple Brit Hart and Jamie Harling
adding more as the stock is absorbed. Continue to add stock and stir until rice is al dente, approximately 20 minutes. You may have stock left over. Remove from heat and stir in cubes of roasted squash, sautéed mushrooms, butter and cheese. Season with salt and red wine vinegar and taste. Plate over squash purée. Top with freshly-grated parmesan cheese and toasted pumpkin seeds. Serves 4
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Milk Tiger cocktail bar, provided
Camie Leard
Provided by International Avenue BRZ
Quick Bites
CHEERS TO MOMMY Victoria Harris has paired her loves for wine and parenting to create My Mommy Drinks Wine – Calgary’s first female-owned and -operated wine label. This curated wine subscription launched with two low-sugar blends – Mama’s blanc and Mama’s noir – produced at City & Country using grapes from Okanagan-based growers. Harris has also partnered with writers and illustrators to create a children’s book – also titled My Mommy Drinks Wine – for tipsy moms to read with their littles.* Kartini Castam puts on a show at an International Avenue food tour
SELAMAT (GOOD LUCK!) After 13 delicious years, International Avenue institution Indonesian Kitchen closed its doors this fall, when proprietor Kartini Castam retired. An iconic figure in Calgary’s international food scene Castram not only served up authentic Indonesian cuisine, but she also shared her food and culture through cooking classes on 17th Ave. S.E. food tours and more. Castam and family say Calgarians can still eat Kartini’s food, but only at events as they plan to move into the catering business.
My Mommy Drinks Wine mmdwwines.com My Mommy Drinks Wine Mama’s Noir
MELT AWAY IN BANFF We recently stopped by Three Bears Brewery in Banff where we enjoyed a delicious confit ahi tuna melt paired with a rooibos Collins made with Jolene’s Tea House tea located right next door. The sandwich itself features yellowfin tuna, havarti, beefsteak tomato, crusted parmesan butter on a delicious sourdough from Wildflour bakery a few doors down. We love this little Bear Street ecosystem in which small businesses support one another!* Three Bears Brewery | 205 Bear St., Banff | 403.985.8038 | threebearsbanff.com
ALWAYS TIME FOR TACOS
Camie Leard
It’s no secret Calgarians love their tacos and now there’s even more selection with the opening of Taqueria El Chefe in the Grain Exchange Building downtown. Specializing in birria, T.E.C. promises some juicy, tender deliciousness and a great place to warm up for lunch this winter. Taqueria El Chefe | 811 1st St. S.W. | @elchefecalgary
Terroir driven wines from the most iconic regions of Chile
SWEET EXPANSION Sucre Patisserie & Café is on a roll with new locations in Crescent Heights Village and downtown in Brookfield Place. Be sure to try one of their croissants (the almond is particularly delicious) when you need a treat to lift your spirits during the coldest months of the year. Sucre Patisserie & Café 225 6th Ave. S.W. on the +15 587.352.5505 | sucrecafe.com Pinot Noir Gran Reserva LEYDA VALLEY Sucre’s almond croissant and raspberry Danish
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*Hosted product/meal, but did not approve story
Carménère Gran Reserva COLCHAGUA VALLEY
N E W S , notes & happenings | Q U I C K B I T E S
SPICE UP YOUR NEW YEAR GUASACACA SAUCE A plant based sauce bursting with flavors from fresh cilantro, avocado, peppers, onions, garlic and more!
Milk Tiger has re-opened in a new location and now features a full dine-in experience on top of their classic cocktail offerings. Expect an American-diner-style menu and plan to visit the Little Big Bar store for food and beverages to go.
Photo provided
HEAR ME ROAR
HAWT SAUCE Fresh and delicious with just the right amount of heat to add extra flavour and a bit of kick to any meal!
Milk Tiger | 2004 4th St. S.W. | milktiger.ca
FLUFFY PANCAKE SHOP Fuwa Fuwa Japanese Pancakes has arrived in Calgary. Follow the website for updates on when this fluffy souffle pancake shop will officially open in Kensington. Fuwa Fuwa Japanese Pancakes 1111 Kensington Rd. N.W. | fuwafuwapancakes.com
LIMITLESS POSSIBILITIES
SHOP LOCAL Find all our sauces in your local grocers in their deli sections
Locally owned Wine & Beyond opened two new locations in Calgary last fall in Deerfoot City and Township. Both include growler bars offering a large selection of craft beer and loads of local spirits.
Wine & Beyond | 200, 80 Longview Common S.E. | 587.625.1280 wineandbeyond.ca
Fuwa Fuwa pancakes Photo provided
Wine & Beyond | 1, 901 64th Ave. N.E. | 403.76434840 wineandbeyond.ca
arepaboss.com
SIDE STEP TO THE LEFT 1886 Buffalo has re-located to a new space in the Sheraton Suites hotel in Eau Claire, just a couple of doors down from their original building. Drop in and check out the new dinner menu and house-curated cocktail list. 1886 Buffalo | 255 Barclay Parade S.W. | 403.452.0153 | 1886buffalo.com
JAZZ UP YOUR TABLE Canadian footwear company Poppy Barley has released a limited-edition line of home essentials featuring a collection of leather-crafted tabletop products. Poppy Barley | poppybarley.com
Poppy Barley leather coasters
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$100 EAT-FOR-A-WEEK 2 Lasagna | beef or chicken 4 Cannelloni | two per tray 3 Barca | one tray of 3 24 Meatballs | two trays of 12 2 Marinara | two jars Freezer-friendly packs
FREE DELIVERY!
Place your order at spolumbos.com
Photo provided
N E W S , notes & happenings | Q U I C K B I T E S
Scotch egg
GET COOKING Get Cooking offers a culturally diverse selection of experienced, local chef instructors to teach students how to use local ingredients. Choose from an assortment of online classes and create globally inspired cuisine. Get Cooking | getcooking.ca
EGGS-PANDING
Celebrating
Everyone in the north will be happy to hear OEB Breakfast Co. has opened a new location in the University District. Join the waitlist for your breakfast poutine or take it to go.
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OEB Breakfast Co. | 4132 University Ave. N.W. | 825.205.9942 | eatoeb.com
YEARS
SIXTH TIME'S A CHARM Popular sandwich spot Peppino Gourmet Foods has a new location opening soon in Mahogany. Discover fresh and frozen items, salads and a variety of sammies.
Calgary, thank you for one more year of your support!
Camie Leard
Peppino Gourmet Foods | 1840, 80 Mahogany Rd. S.E. | peppinogourmet.com
ROLL UP THE FLAVOUR We popped into Sushi Zipang in Bridgeland for lunch and loved their rainbow roll! With a perfect balance in flavour, texture and colour, be sure to add this one to your list the next time you’re at this classic sushi favourite.
Assorted sushi and sashimi at Sushi Zipang
Camie Leard
Sushi Zipang | 1010 1st Ave. N.E. 403.262.1888 | zipang.ca
THAT’S SOMM SERVICE A new app created by Alberta-born Jennifer Tkachuk-Tremblay is giving everyday people access to extraordinary wine knowledge at their fingertips. Specifically aimed at helping you pair wine with the occasion, Somm uses technology to bring master-sommelier-level expertise to your phone. Partnering with local businesses like Orchard and Highlander Wines and Spirits, the app will also recommend what’s available and in stock at the time you’re at the location.* Somm | somm.io
*Hosted product/meal, but did not approve story
#EATATMINAS
(403) 454-2550 136 2nd STREET SW minassteakhouse.coM
Churrascaria & Restaurante OPEN FOR DINE-IN, TAKEOUT, DELIVERY & CATERING
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F U N F O O D T A L E S f rom the f ront line | F U N N Y B O N E S
CA SI NG A CA F É
Three and a half ways to tell if the coffee’s good without going inside B y PH I L I P C OPPA R D
Like all great culinary stories, it started in Prince George. It was 8 a.m. It was drizzly and grey. And much to the chagrin of my colleagues, I hadn’t yet had my two shots of the black liquor of life. Two coffee shops presented themselves as options: a café and a chocolate store. I guessed café. Big mistake. I might as well have re-used the Keurig cup in my hotel room. The problem with trying a new coffee shop, is that by the time you've tasted the product, it is too late. You’ve bought a bad coffee. In fact, as a Canadian, the minute you walk in the door you’ve sealed your fate as you’re far too polite to walk out now. The challenge is to figure out how to know if the coffee will be any good before you step inside. How can you tell whether to enter with confidence or to walk away? Fortunately, my extensive experience as a coffee connoisseur (read nerd) has allowed me to develop the three-point system of evaluating a coffee shop from the door:
Point 1:
GEAR
Is there a high-end, commercial espresso machine clearly visible from the door? It will probably say something in Italian on it and it definitely won’t have the red Canadian Tire triangle. Importantly, it must be clearly visible, not hidden behind a wall or countertop.
E VA L UA T I N G T H E P O I N T S
If a café scores three or more points, you are almost guaranteed a great coffee experience. Point 2: B E A N S Two or 2½ points is a toss-up. If you’re in Prince It is unlikely a great coffee shop is going to showcase George, it’s definitely worth the risk. If the place scores fewer than two points, run away. a wall of Costco specials or yellow-brand brew. (In Vancouver, you don’t have to run far. Look for rows of beautiful, sealed bags proudly In Toronto or Calgary, you might need an Uber.) displayed for every coffee nerd to peruse. Point 3:
FOCUS
Is the focus clearly coffee? Any food should be secondary to the java. Freshly baked croissant: great. Soggy plastic-wrapped sandwiches: not at all great. Point 3½:
THE BONUS POINT
Are the baristas uncomfortably pierced and tattooed? The kind where you think “ouch, that must have hurt?” This is a great sign that the owner cares more about the staff’s knowledge and skill than about how they look.
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Nowadays, you can even save yourself the indignity of leaving your nose print on the window by pulling out your phone. Often, the photos on a Google page let you determine a very reliable score. Hint: if there isn’t a picture of coffee in the first eight photos, there’s probably a reason. P.S. Most “Mermaids” stores are a 1. Machine hidden from view (0), very proud of beans (1), way too much food (0) and visible tattoos are against corporate policy (0). Makes me wonder, when a DeVille takes over a Mermaids location, do they have to hold some sort of espresso exorcism?
Catch the Vibe MODERN OCEAN
MODERN BURGER
MODERN STEAK
A S U S TA I N A B L E F I S H & S E A F O O D H O U S E
CRAFT BURGERS & CONCOCTIONS
A N A L B E R TA P R I M E G R A D E S T E A K H O U S E
KENSINGTON SOUTHPORT
OPENING FEB. 2022 IN THE DISTRICT FOOD HALL
KENSINGTON STEPHEN AVENUE SOUTHPORT
BE LOCALLY
GL BAL AWA K EN YO UR I NNE R TRAVE L L E R.
Ac tivate your global taste buds with out leavin g h om e. Eat Globally Locally; f rom one of the 20 culinary kitchens representing wholesome food creations f rom Jamaica, Greece, Japan, Ukraine, South East Asia, Indonesia, SW United States, Venezuela, Columbia, El Salvador, Canada, India, First Nations, Korea, Peru, Chile, Thailand, Italy, and Mexico at the Fresh & Local Market + Kitchens. Everyone can chose their own dishes, then enjoy a licensed beverage in our bar. Friday and Saturday nights listen to live music f rom local musicians f rom 6–8p. Have a coffee and walk around as you pick up your daily essentials f rom organic chicken to milk; f rom local produce to gluten f ree baking; f rom meals to go to f rozen soups. Safe. Kin d. Smiles. Share the word that we believe in making food accessible to everyone. We do not discriminate or make judgements. When you enter the Fresh & Local Market + Kitchens, we are committed to embracing everyone with kindness and attention. Let us assure you we believe in your rights to be safe and to f reely access food, water and community. We welcome everyone into our space. Let your f riends and family know we are a welcoming place to eat and shop. Behin d our masks are smiles an d kin d words for you.
Fresh & Local Garlic Festival
Calgary’s Local Food HUB
Zesty Garlicy Morsels just $5 each
January 22, 2022 from 11a-8p
In Avenida Village 426, 12445 Lake Fraser Drive SE
Spirit of Aloha Festival
(1 block north of the Canyon Meadows LRT)
Feel the Aloha as our o’hana prepare luau inspired meals. Everyone E Komo Mai.
Ph: 403•475•4155
Thursday – Saturday 11a-8p; Sundays 11a-5p
Buy online at www.FreshAndLocal.ca
Feb 19
February 19, 2022 from 11a-8p
