L ATE SPRING 2022
FRESH. LOCAL. STORIES FOR FOOD LOVERS.
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Welcome | F R O M T H E E D I T O R
Contents I
12
t feels different this spring, doesn’t it? Like maybe, just maybe we’ll finally return to some semblance of normalcy…whatever that means. We’ve come out of the last two decades…er…years a little battered, a bit bruised and maybe a few pounds heavier than we were in the Spring of 2019. But we’ve also come out wiser, more creative and with an empowering knowledge that we’ve got what it takes to survive – no matter what life throws at us. And we’re ready to take on whatever’s next.
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What’s next, dear readers, is to take in all the incredible things Calgary’s food scene has planned for you this spring and summer. With a couple of years of pent-up energy, chefs, restaurateurs, venues, events and (most likely) your neighbours, will unleash the best they’ve got this season. In this issue, Grace Wang takes us on the “Kain Tayo (Let’s Eat!)” tour of Filipino food in Calgary and Catherine Van Brunschot introduces us to some of the area’s plant-based producers. Savour newcomer Marinda White, photographs Chef Leslie Bull of Kookum’s Bannock Kitchen and Catering. With Indigenous Peoples' Day celebrations happening June 21, get your bannock orders in early as the traditional treat is in high demand that day! Karen Ralph takes a crack at a tough cut with her Élan Bourguignon “Master Class” and Wanda Baker gets fresh and fishy in her “Shop Local” column. Your assignment this spring, should you choose to accept it, is to get out and try something different with people you haven’t seen in a while. We need to be together, to rebuild connections and repair the relationships that have suffered through pandemic, politics and polarization. We can’t think of a better way to do that than to break bread together and celebrate our commonalities. Happy Eating!
10 Savour Calgary tells the food stories that happen at Mohkínstsis, located in the traditional territories of the Niitsitapi and the people of the Treaty 7 region and the Métis Nation of Alberta, Region 3. We acknowledge the indigenous people of this area as keepers of the land and water that make these stories possible and thank them for their hospitality and stewardship of this place.
2022 ISSUE SCHEDULE
Camie Leard, Editor camie@savourcalgary.ca
Watch for Savour Calgary on newsstands throughout 2022. Summer | July 13 Harvest | Sept 14 Holiday | Nov 16
18 Features 10 Meet the Producers 12 Kain Tayo (Let's eat!)
The Regulars 5 7 8 15 16 18 19 22
Savour Selects Fresh Market Shop Local Market Report In My Kitchen Master Class Quick Bites Funny Bones
SAVOURCALGARY.ca
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PUBLISHER
Debbie Lambert debbie@savourcalgary.ca EDITOR
Camie Leard camie@savourcalgary.ca D I G I TA L M E D I A M A N AG E R
Wanda Baker wanda@savourcalgary.ca MAGAZINE DESIGN
Cheryl Starr Design Group stellardesign.ca CONTRIBUTORS
Scotch Truffles
Surprise Dad with something special for Father’s Day Ingredients: 7 oz. (200g) semisweet chocolate, chopped fine 1/3 cup (75ml) whipping cream 1-2 tbsp. Scotch, any kind
About 1/2 cup (125g) finely grated chocolate and/or cocoa powder for rolling the truffles and cocoa powder for dusting hands
Directions:
Wanda Baker Ellen Kelly Karen Ralph Catherine Van Brunschot Grace Wang Marinda White ADVERTISING SALES
Ellen Kelly ellen@savourcalgary.ca Martin Robillard martin@savourcalgary.ca WEBSITE TECHNICAL ADVISOR
Todd Robertson web@savourcalgary.ca DISTRIBUTION
1. Place finely chopped chocolate into a high-sided bowl or the bowl of a blender. Place cream in a saucepan over medium heat until hot but not simmering; remove the pan from the heat. 2. Pour hot cream over the chocolate and mix thoroughly with a blender or a hand-held immersion blender until you achieve a smooth consistency. You can also stir by hand with a sturdy whisk, spatula, or wooden spoon. 3. Once chocolate is thoroughly melted, add Scotch, one tablespoon at a time, and stir well to blend. Let mixture stand at room temperature for at least one hour and up to two hours until ganache is firm. 4. Dust hands with cocoa. Scrape spoon or melon-ball cutter across surface of mixture; quickly press with fingertips into 1-inch (2.5cm) balls. Drop the balls into the grated chocolate, or cocoa powder if you prefer, and roll until well coated. Place on Silpat, wax paper or parchment paper to set for several hours. 5. Store truffles in the refrigerator in an air-tight plastic container or bag for 1 week. Or, if you choose, freeze triple-wrapped in freezer bags for 1-2 months.
James Norman distribution@savourcalgary.ca PRINTING
CentralWeb Savour Calgary is a bi-monthly magazine published by Savour Calgary Ltd. Savour Calgary is published six times per year. Winter, Early Spring, Late Spring, Summer, Fall, Holiday C O N TAC T I N FO RM AT I O N
403.475.5809 info@savourcalgary.ca P O S T M A I L : c/o 153 Somercrest Circle S.W., Calgary, AB T2Y3H1 PHONE:
EMAIL:
FO R M O RE I N FO RM AT I O N S E E U S AT
savourcalgary.ca
Your recipes deserve our chocolate! www.CococoChocolatiers.com/recipes
FO R E D I T O RI A L I N Q U I RI E S C O N TAC T
camie@savourcalgary.ca
Scotch & Malt Whisky Lovers Collection If you like this recipe, you'll love our Scotch & Malt Whisky Lovers Collection, 12 chocolates, complete with comparative tasting notes ~ $26
www.CococoChocolatiers.com chocolate chocolate together together
@Cococo_Chocolates
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@CococoChocolates
@ChocBernCal
Savour Calgary has made all efforts to ensure that content in the magazine is accurate on the date of publication. The views expressed in the articles reflect the author(s) opinions and do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher or editor. The published material, advertisements, editorials and photographs along with all other content is published in good faith and Savour Calgary cannot guarantee and accepts no liability for any loss or damage of any kind caused by any errors, omissions and for the accuracy of claims made by the advertisers or any other contributors. All trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner and Savour Calgary will be held harmless in the event that the advertiser or contributor has submitted trademarks for which they do not have authorization from the owner. All rights reserved by Savour Calgary and nothing can be partially or in whole be reprinted or reproduced without the written consent of the publisher at Savour Calgary Ltd.
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T O P P I C K S f rom Savour staf f | S A V O U R S E L E C T S
Tomahawk Kitchen + Bar | 9823 Macleod Trail S.W. 403.475.4295 | yyctomahawk.com The Beer Hall
The Beer Hall at Symons Valley Ranch is a rustic and popular out-of-theway eatery featuring a big-city collection of local craft beer, spirits and simple eats. Owners Jay Hickey and Kent Peters are the masterminds behind this community hangout located on the grounds of Symons Valley Ranch. These two beer-and-pizza slingers started the bar on the heels of Covid, taking the time to add some life to the historical building. They opened in October 2020, managed to pivot with the pandemic and have had a regular following ever since. The menu, featuring house-made pizza, was created by Shelley Hammerli, former owner of the now-closed Wicked Wedge Pizza. Those looking for more than pie can check out the “Not Pizza” menu to find additional items to satisfy their taste buds. Entertainment is back with live music Friday nights, regular comedy nights, open mic night, charity pint nights, and they have a gallery space supporting local artists. The dog-friendly patio will definitely be calling our name this summer.
Brendan Klem
The Beer Hall | 14555 Symons Valley Rd. N.W. 587.327.3783 | thebeerhall.ca
Crispy Skin Chicken
Gwailo 1214 9th Ave. S.E. 403.226.9883 gwailo.ca
BUILD IT AND THEY WILL COME
Photo provided
Wanda Baker
There’s no perfect time to open a restaurant, but owner and Chef Ravi Panchagnula was hopeful he found the right time when he debuted Tomahawk Kitchen + Bar in April. Calgary’s newest steakhouse promises an elevated experience with unique offerings unlike any you will find elsewhere in town. Named after the infamous tomahawk steak, they offer this cut daily in five varieties: black diamond angus beef, bison, veal, pork and lamb. For those looking to go big (or go home,) the Gold Digger burger requires a knife and fork to get the job done. It’s stacked with Alberta Brant Lake Wagyu beef, bone marrow butter, butter-poached lobster, wild mushrooms, red wine cheddar, truffle aioli, shaved truffles, pancetta, pickled onions and 24-carat gold leaf. Tomahawk is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. *
Savour selects THE WATERING HOLE
BE A GOLD DIGGER
Noble Pie pizza is back. For the last couple of years, pizza enthusiasts flocked to Eighty-Eight Brewing Company to try Mike Lange’s pop-up pizza, sometimes waiting for hours to get in. This New York-inspired pizza pop-up started in 2018 after Lange spent 13 years testing dough, reading pizza books, The Original Noble visiting pizzerias around the world and perfecting pizza dough. Pie Pizza Inspired by Joe Beddia from Philadephia’s Pizzeria Beddia, who believed you could start with a small crew plus great quality product and still have a viable business, Noble Pizza was born, becoming a popular fixture in the brewery. Once covid hit, things changed and owners Mike and his partner Leslie Lamont decided to take Noble Pie in a new direction opening their own bricks-and-mortar location in the space behind The Cookbook Co. Cooks. They transformed the room into a cozy oldschool pizzeria adding nods to those who have inspired them along the way. Noble Pie | 720 11th Ave. S.W. | noblepiepizza.com
GWAILO CHINESE New restaurant Gwailo quietly opened in Inglewood April 1, offering Hong Kong-adjacent cuisine under the direction of co-owners Jason Wankel and Chef Chris Wong. When Gorilla Whale closed, these two teamed up to open this new space, retaining most of the staff. Born in Hong Kong, Wong moved to Canada at an early age only to return to Hong Kong as an adult. He was affectionately called “Gwailo” during his time in Hong Kong, not because he was foreign, but because he grew up outside of the country and was known to approach things in a western way. The name suits the eatery, as it offers its interpretation of Hong Kong cuisine with a westernized twist. Wong’s career spans working in a French bistro, Italian eatery, a Chinese restaurant in Sheung Wan and a vegan start-up before returning to Calgary. These international influences can be seen on his menu, which offers an assortment of delicious bites perfect for sharing. We dove right into the dry-aged, crispy-skin half chicken made Hong Kong-style with ginger scallion salsa, house hot sauce, kung pao mayo, miso-buttered green beans, seasoned rice and a mixed green salad. A couple of shao kao sticks in beef and lamb, spicy mouth-watering cucumbers, house-made leche flan and an ice cream sundae rounded out our meal. This quaint eatery seats 75 and is open Tuesday through Sunday. *
*Hosted our meal, but did not approve the story
Experience the
GRANDESTof FEELINGS with LIVE MUSIC
Wine Wednesdays with live music Hawthorn offers a culinary experience that captures the heart and soul of Calgary. hawthorndiningroom.ca/special-events
DJ Friday Nights Live Jazz Weekends Saturday & Sunday
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Camie Leard
Hi5 Burger and all beef hotdog
Calgary has no shortage of burger spots, although there are only a handful who truly make the cut. Hi5 Burger is the brainchild of restauranteurs Ryan Turbide, Vince Wong and Mike Pigot, a dynamic trio who are no strangers to the food community in Calgary. This new collaboration brings together easily accessible, quality food while utilizing local suppliers. When First Street Market started looking for vendors, opportunity knocked, and they dove right in opening Hi5 Burger. The sizeable Alberta-beef burgers are made with American cheese, market fresh lettuce and onions, house made burger sauce and pickles and are served on Martin’s famous potato rolls. They can be customized with additional add-ons, including yellow, red or white sauce. Along with burgers, you’ll find fries for days, chicken sandwiches and all-beef ballpark style hot dogs. A classic strawberry, chocolate, vanilla or pineapple shake completes the meal. * Hi-5 Burgers | 1327 1st St. S.W. | hifiveburger.com
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Wanda Baker
NEW BURGER ON THE BLOCK
HIDDEN GEM: THE ROCKFORT CHETTINADU CUISINE While many Canadians’ experience of Indian food begins and ends with butter chicken and naan, the cuisine of this large southeast-Asian country is as diverse as the people who live there. Hailing from Tiruchirapalli, in the southern part of India, the chef/owners of The RockFort were among the first to bring Chettinadu cuisine to Calgary. And we’re so glad they did. Chettinad province is home to the Koli Hills where coffee, tea and spices grow in abundance. As a result, Chettinadu masalas are complex (RockFort’s has upwards of 100 different spices) and fiery. But perhaps most of all, Chettinad is known for dosa. These thin flat breads are made from a fermented batter consisting of lentils and rice – and The RockFort makes delicious dosa! Our heat-loving friend devoured the spicy grilled chicken dosa and raved about the tenderness of the chicken and the flavourful seasonings. We’re a little less adventurous in the spice department and opted for a milder paneer dosa, which still had a kick without being overwhelming. These dosa are enormous, come with a range of fillings are enormous, crispy on the outside, spongy on the inside and really very delicious. Each comes with three sauces for dipping: coconut, tomato and an aromatic lentil sambar. Of course, if you have kids or less adventurous diners with you, the butter chicken and naan are also great and familiar favourites like aloo golbi, korma and vindaloo also abound on the menu. Chef/owner Siva Dharma is regularly out from the kitchen running food, bussing tables and chatting with customers. He clearly loves to talk about food and home and is proud of what he and his team have brought to Calgary. Find The RockFort in the plaza on the northwest corner of Macleod Tr. and Southland Dr. S.W. tucked way back in the corner.
The RockFort’s delicious dhosas exemplify Chettinadu cuisine
The RockFort Chettinadu and Indian Restaurant 380, 9737 MacLeod Tr. S.W. 403.764.9737 therockfort.ca
W H A T ’ S F R E S H this season | F R E S H M A R K E T
Fennel
B y E L L E N K E L LY I l l u s t ra t i on b y A L I S ON M A RT I N I’ve often wondered why fennel isn’t more popular than it is. Certainly, it’s more common now than in recent years, but I find many people are still somewhat intimidated by this lovely vegetable. It could be because it is often mislabeled anise or sweet anise, and people are suspicious of a too bold liquorice taste. Or perhaps it’s because it seems difficult to prepare, looking a bit like celery on steroids. The bulb is, in fact, an inflated leaf base. What do you do with that? Time to quell those fears. Fennel is a member of the large carrot family; an umbellifer, which describes the flower clusters of this charming clan... picture an umbrella and its spokes. Common fennel, used mostly for its pollen and seeds, is an aggressive naturalized perennial plant that flourishes in milder climes, especially drawn to open areas. The tall feathery-leafed plants are a common fixture along California roadsides, for example. But we are unlikely to be foraging for either pollen or seeds, so it’s the fruit of cultivation we are concerned with here, the fennel bulb of the Florentine variety. As the incomparable vegetable guru Deborah Madison says, “few vegetables are more efficient as fennel.” From head to toe - pollen, seeds, stalks, leaves and bulbs, cooked or raw - fennel offers it all. Add to that roster delicious and versatile, and you have a most exemplary vegetable indeed. Fennel has a mild sweet anise-like flavour, which becomes milder still when cooked. It is crisp and refreshing as (or in) a salad; sweet and buttery when braised, my favourite preparation. For a silky, citrusy braise, three medium-to-large bulbs (about the size of a baseball) will do nicely for 6 people. Begin by cutting off, across the top
of the bulb, the hollow stalks with their lacy dill-like leaves, keeping these and all the other trimmings, aside. Trim the root end and pull off the coarser outer layer of the bulb until you get to the pristine white inner bit. Don’t be too energetic with this as the braising will soften a trimmed, albeit slightly tough outer layer. Halve the bulb, top to bottom, and then cut into 4-6 wedges, depending on the size of the bulb. As with an onion, keep the core intact to ensure the wedges stay together. In a hot pan, sauté the wedges in a little butter and olive oil mixed, until golden. Add salt, a splash of white wine (maybe a resiling or gewurztraminer, but anything nice will do), lemon (or orange) zest and squeeze of juice, and light chicken or vegetable stock to about halfway up the fennel. Lower the heat, cover, and cook for 15-20 minutes or until the fennel is easily pierced with something pointy. Check once halfway through to make sure all the liquid hasn’t been cooked away. If so, add a little more. Served garnished with a few fronds, saving the rest of the debris for stock. Throw nothing out! When buying fennel, look for firm, plump round bulbs with little bruising or blemishes on the outer layer. Remember you will be peeling off that outer layer, but the bulb should not look dry or fibrous. Flat bulbs are not as desirable but will have a more pronounced anise-like flavour if that is what is wanted. The stalks and frond-like leaves should be fresh and bright green. Fennel is available most of the year, but especially in spring and early summer. As the season progresses the bulbs are more likely to be less juicy, the leaves tough and the core bitter. It is more expensive than celery, of course, but I will often substitute it, especially when the swap-out will be noticed. The addition of chopped fennel (including leaves) in a soup or stew, even a ratatouille, is subtle but delicious. Nothing quite compares to finely sliced raw fennel in a tossed salad. As a salad, however, it transcends. One large bulb will easily make a nice little side dish for 3-4 people. Ready a bowl of ice water with lemon juice. Trim the bulb(s) as described above and halve. If you choose, you may remove the core before finely slicing, but as I have rarely found a fennel core to be anything but sweet and crunchy, I do not. If you do, be sure to eat it as you prepare the rest of the salad. Really, people throw out the most wonderful things! Toss the sliced fennel in the ice water and let sit for at least 20 minutes; drain and spin dry before dressing with Maldon salt, fresh lemon and /or orange juice and zest and some very good fruity olive oil. A crisp, tart, red skinned apple, cut in thin slices or some particularly sweet celery, cut in long diagonals, are perfectly lovely additions... and extenders. On a trivial note, green fennel is essential, along with wormwood – one of several herbaceous ingredients in absinthe, lending its notable liquorice flavour to this intriguing spirit. Now that the ‘green fairy’ myth has been debunked, one can purchase this tipple once again and sip without fear of madness. But my favourite fennel tie-in is Prometheus’ daring theft of fire from the gods on Olympus, embers hidden in the hollow of a fennel stalk, for which he paid so dearly. Tragic stories, tasty meals, the culinary world in a nutshell... or a fennel stalk.
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SPICE IS LIFE
Wanda Baker
If the last couple of years have taught us anything, it’s that we love to eat. For comfort, joy, sadness, boredom… and I’m okay with that. With hot, sunny days on our minds, we’re sliding into summer with some ideas to keep food simple: like shopping for local produce, supporting local farmers, new seasonings and sauces to enjoy on the barbecue, beautiful new dishes for our patio parties and a new way to keep leftovers fresher longer.
Eats of Asia’s Umami Spice Mix is a magical mushroom concoction that tastes amazing on, well, everything. This Japanese-inspired blend created by owner and Chef Jay del Carro boasts a load of umami flavour with a hint of tingle from the Sichuan peppercorns. It’s an all-natural blend featuring umami-rich ingredients like kelp, nutritional yeast, tamari, mushrooms and peppercorns. A little goes a long way and it can elevate any dish by adding the fifth taste. Since umami occurs naturally in mushrooms, there are no additives in this jar of tasty goodness. We’ve sprinkled it on our avocado toast, popcorn, burgers, blended it into dressings and even finished roasted or grilled vegetables with it. Visit them in the Crossroads Market. Umami Mix | Eats of Asia | $13 eatsofasiashop.square.site
B y WA N DA B A K E R
Shop Local! Eats of Asia Umami Mix
ASPARAGUS PICKLE PARTY
JUST KEEP SWIMMING
Fresh asparagus season is upon us, and anticipation is building as we await the arrival of Edgar Farms asparagus in the markets. This family operation started growing vegetables in the ’80s, but decided to downsize, specializing in a smaller assortment of vegetables. While it might be the largest asparagus farm in Alberta, it remains focused on quality and flavour during a short growing season. One of our favourite ways to enjoy this bright green vegetable fresh, is to peel it and add the raw peeled curls to salad or on top of crostini slathered with fresh ricotta and lemon – or grilled with olive oil and lemon. When it’s not in season, you can shop the markets and source a variety of EdgarFarms-made preserves and have yourself a pickle party. Treat yourself to pickled asparagus bits and tips, bread and butter pickles or relish. Check the website for a list of markets and retailers.
Add some vibrant, cheery fun to your table this summer with one-of-a-kind dishware designs from the Vietri Pesci Colorati Collection, available at Lemonceillo Home & Gift. White earthenware clay is the ideal canvas for storytelling in colour, making these images come to life. This Italian dishware is inspired by traditional schools of fish common in the coastal villages of Italy. Each piece is crafted in Tuscany by master artisans who add a signature spin by hand painting every detail. We love these dishes so much as they encourage creative conversations around the table about Finding Nemo, Dory’s Squishy and the one that got away. Since opening seven years ago, Lemonceillo Home & Gift has curated a diverse selection of unique, well-crafted and responsibly made items that are meant to be used, enjoyed and shared with others. These dishes will brighten any table this summer.
Fresh and pickled Asparagus Edgar Farms | $11.95 $15.99 | edgarfarms.com 8 L AT E S P R I N G 2022 S AVO U RC A LG A RY.c a
Photo provided
Pesci Colorati Collection Lemonceillo Home & Gift $50 - $250 lemonceillo.com
Fish plates
Photo provided
HEY, GRILL Zwilling Fresh Save Vacuum Sealer
With food costs rising and no end in sight, we are trying to buy less and use what we have on hand to help prevent food waste. The Zwilling Fresh & Save Vacuum Food Storage System is a new tool we’ve discovered to help keep food fresher longer and prevent freezer burn. This countertop, rechargeable cordless vacuum sealer is fast, efficient and easy to use, taking up very little kitchen space. The glass storage containers and bags are BPA-free, while the reusable freezer bags are microwave and dishwasher safe. It’s extremely handy for fresh produce such as berries, lettuce and herbs or splitting packages of meat into smaller freezable servings. Start with the starter kit and add on. Zwilling Fresh & Save Food Storage Starter Set Britannia Kitchen & Home, Zest Kitchenware | $149.99 britanniahome.ca, zestkitchenware.com
Photo provided
REDUCING FOOD WASTE
Sticky Fixx winner Motley Que
Husband-and-wife duo Joe and Jess Semack call Edmonton home, but they know good barbecue. Joe is a well-known, awardwinning pitmaster, educator and creator of Motley Que sauces and seasonings. The couple has operated food trucks and a catering company where they debuted the sauces. Rave reviews inspired an amping up of production to bottles, which they sell in small batches. Last year, the Sticky Fixx barbecue sauce won “Best Sauce on the Planet” at the American Royal World Series of BBQ Sauce Contest in Kansas City. The sauce is sweet, tangy and delicious on everything. Veggie burgers? You bet! Rack of ribs? Absolutely! Grilled chicken? You better believe it! Next time you go shopping for that big-brand-name sauce, detour to a barbecue store or local market and seek out Canadian products. Sticky Fixx Barbecue Sauce Barbecues Galore, Island Foods YYC $12.99 - $15.99 | motleyque.ca
ESTATE GROWN. FAMILY OWNED. CERTIFIED SUSTAINABLE.
Rich, smooth, full-bodied California Cabernet from the Southern Hills of Livermore Valley.
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Rosemary Wotske and Cam Beard
Photo provided
DUCERS
Luco Farms
B y C AT H E R I N E VA N BRU N S C HO T
MEET THE PR
As has become a spring/summer tradition at Savour Calgary, we're proud to introduce you to the great local growers and producers that put the food on our tables year-round.
Robert and Ben Luco
POPLAR BLUFF ORGANICS
Here’s a handful on our radar:
If you’ve eaten at fine restaurants in our region, you’ve already tasted her products. Rosemary Wotske’s Poplar Bluff farm has supplied organic produce to the community since 1985, and her Agria potatoes are highly sought-after by chefs for their unparalleled flavour and consistency. As a food-industry icon, she makes success look easy. But while it took only one childhood farm visit for this Calgary girl to discover farming was in her blood, it took decades more to figure out how she was going to do it. There was a degree in physiology and biochemistry, a Master’s degree in genetics and the search for just the right piece of land. Then the sharp learning curve to overcome a lack of practical skill and an occasional leap of faith. She experimented with crops and livestock, tried to replicate the grassroots approach to food-growing she’d observed as a global traveler and collected feedback from customers at farmers’ markets.
Potatoes emerged as her crown jewel (she grows up to 18 varieties!) Eventually, she teamed up with neighbour grower, Cam Beard, to supply a full range of root vegetables to organic grocers and restaurateurs, carefully rotating and cover-cropping the pair’s combined 250+ acres to promote the soil fertility that produces flavourful, nutrient-dense food.
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Rosemary is as big a “foodie” as she is a farmer, talking starch types and mouth feel and heat responses with the best of them. “I love doing chef calls,” she says. “This is home; this is where I need to be.” She also loves to get people out on the farm, running field tours with Cam and hosting longtable dinners. A concern for food waste means she supplies two foodbanks with vegetables that “don’t meet runway standards in the beauty contest” and offers “Ugly Veggie Wednesday” discounts at the farm. Both motives are behind a new venture she hopes to launch by 2024: a distillery that uses field ‘seconds,’ alongside a steakhouse featuring products from Poplar Bluff and other county ranchers, growers and brewers. “It’s about integrity, about what you’re giving people to eat,” she says. “Because eating well does more towards happiness and longevity and joie-devivre in people’s lives than anything else does.” Check poplarblufforganics.com for upcoming events and for a full list of restaurants and retailers where Poplar Bluff products are sold.
Photo provided
Luco Farms
SHIRLEY’S GREENHOUSE
Love those fields of bright yellow blooms in an Alberta summer? Guess what! They’re not always canola. In a country that’s the world’s largest producer of mustard seed, the harvest from those fields might just appear in your next jar of Dijon.
She’s the definition of hustle. And – surprise – her name’s not Shirley. She’s Dawn Buschert of Shirley’s Greenhouse –and Shirley is actually her mom, who started the family operation back in the ’90s with Dawn’s dad, Ted Van Tienhoven. Dawn grew up in the greenhouse, so when her parents decided to sell, she took the business name and built a greenhouse of her own just east of Didsbury in 2007. There she grows Dawn Buschert cucumbers, tomatoes, and peppers in a 36,000 square foot facility, in addition to 20 acres of hand-picked field crops like greens and squash.
Mustard is not native to Alberta, but this sun-loving, drought-tolerant crop thrives on our southern prairies. Robert Luco knows that better than most. His family has farmed 1,000 acres near Lethbridge since 1937 and his father was among the first in the area to grow pedigreed oriental mustard seed almost 60 years ago. Now Robert and his son, Ben, are carrying on the family tradition with their line of Luco Farms artisanal mustards. At first, “we were [adding] thyme and cranberries and beer and all sorts of stuff,” says Robert. But chefs told them to keep it simple and leave the flavour-play to them. “So we backed off that and started making pure ground mustard [using] brown, yellow and oriental mustard seeds.” The Lucos blend them like your favourite GSM wine, creating six varieties to date: from the mild, yellow Prairie Flower to the aptly-named Prairie Fire, blazing with oriental seeds and their horseradish/wasabi tang. The duo has sold Luco products online and at the Lethbridge Farmers’ Market since 2013 where they’ve been a hit with people like the nonna who keeps her family coming back with her Prairie Spirit-laced mac ‘n cheese, and the beef lover who finesses his flat-iron steak with a Luco Farms mustard-spiked jus. The Lucos are quick to credit the many organizations and partners who’ve championed their product, including a swath of Lethbridge stores and restaurants, as well as the Calgary and Airdrie Sobeys/Safeway managers who added the mustards to their shelves this past year. “I like the feedback that we get from the marketplace,” says Ben. “People saying ‘this is the best.’” And Robert loves working with his son: “[It’s] been a really wonderful experience to build something together. And to be producing product that people…use as an expression of THEIR caring and love for THEIR family.” Calgary shoppers can buy Luco Farms mustards online (lucofarms.com) or at Safeway Aspen, Garrison Woods, or Sobeys Strathcona Square.
In truth, she loves the people side of the business, so she leaves operations to her tiny, trusted team while she hits the road six days a week, tending to her many farmers’ market booths as well as her Old’s Uptowne Market and Symon’s Valley Ranch Market stores. Her truck is her office; her phone never stops. “But I thrive on that,” she says. “I love people and relationships.” What she doesn’t love are the pests that are the bane of greenhouses everywhere. “Aphids are my enemy,” she says. Like all Alberta greenhouse growers, she turns to predator insects – such as ladybugs – as a first line of defense. When flare-ups do occur, she uses only certified organic pesticides – her own personal commitment to customers and family. Her greenhouse collects rainwater; she re-uses water from the greenhouse’s hydroponic systems to irrigate her field crops; and she uses no grow lights – which not only saves energy but shuts down operations for a month in deep winter, allowing any residual pests to die. In 2019, she was Alberta Greenhouse Grower of the Year. “It’s about [selling] good food to good people,” she says. “I love what I do.” Check shirleysgreenhouse.com for all her online and market locations.
2nd location
CFM West opening august
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Assorted kakanin at Marcus Special Kakanin
Kain Tayo Let's eat
B y G R AC E WA NG
A tour of Filipino food in Calgary RISE AND SHINE
As an archipelago nation made up of more than 7,000 islands, the Philippines offers a cuisine just as plentiful that is by turns sweet, sour, salty and rich. While it’s often said that the best Filipino food is homemade, not all of us are lucky enough to have a talented lola (grandma) in our lives. Fortunately, Calgary abounds with some great spots for tasty Filipino dishes, desserts and snacks.
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Calgary’s obsession with brunch is well-established. Next time, instead of ordering your go-to dish, try a classic Filipino breakfast at Rise N’ Shine Breakfast Place. Tapsilog is a hefty plate of marinated cured beef, aromatic garlic rice and a fried egg. It’s enormously satisfying, and Rise N' Shine Breakfast Place’s version comes with a fresh mango salsa to keep things tangy and bright.
SNACK ATTACK In between meals is merienda, a tradition of afternoon snacking brought to the Philippines by Spaniards during the colonial era. A popular merienda snack is ensaymada, a sweet, brioche-like bun topped with buttercream and mild grated cheese. Grated cheese on a sweet bun might seem strange at first, but it provides an extra depth and richness. In Calgary, The Red Box Gourmet bakes ensaymada daily and offers traditional and filled varieties—the ube, (purple yam) ensaymada is a must-try! Another merienda snack is kakanin, which refers to desserts containing rice flour or glutinous rice. There are countless varieties, but Michael Pantoja, owner of Marcus Special Kakanin says that biko is his best seller in Calgary. It is impossible to keep your fingers clean when eating biko, a delicious glutinous rice cake with coconut milk and caramelized brown sugar, drenched in an additional layer of brown-sugar caramel. Sapin-sapin is an instantly recognizable kakanin, with its brightly colored layers of rice flour mixed with coconut milk and sugar. Pantoja’s version strikes the perfect sweet and chewy note and is dusted with toasted shredded coconut. Pantoja and his wife were laid off at the start of the COVID pandemic and started making kakanin using his parents’ recipes. Today, they have a thriving business and supply the Filipino supermarket, Seafood City, with their kakanin.
La Paz Batchoy
Sisig
…OR IS IT LUNCH? Merienda snacks can be surprisingly filling, and pancit can be eaten as either a snack or part of a larger meal. Pancit refers to several noodle dishes, with pancit canton and pancit bihon both bearing a resemblance to Chinese stir-fried noodles but adapted with local ingredients and flavors. Pancit bihon is delightful in all its iterations and every family seems to have their own take. Roc’s Grill takes things one step further and adds bits of lechon, or whole roasted pig on top. Roc’s Grill’s pancit is a salty mix of stir-fried rice vermicelli noodles, thicker egg noodles, green beans, marinated chicken and carrots, but the star is undoubtedly the lechon, which is perfectly roasted to a crispy finish.
RING THE DINNER BELL All that snacking leads us to dinner, where there are several outstanding options. Chopstix Filipino Restaurant offers up traditional dishes and regional favourites. La Paz Batchoy is a regional specialty hailing from the La Paz district of Iloilo City. It’s a hearty, deeply flavourful soup with a meaty broth, pork meat, offal and thick egg noodles, topped with pork cracklings, fried garlic, and onions — comfort food at its best. On the other end of the spectrum is fresh lumpia, which originates from the city of Silay. Also known as lumpiang sariwa, this dish features a mix of julienned vegetables and leafy lettuce covered with a thin crepe-like wrapper. This light, refreshing combination is topped with a brown garlic sauce and crushed peanuts. For no-fuss homestyle cooking, look no further than family-owned Lola’s Filipino Kitchen. This unassuming take-out joint always has a counter full of traditional stews and soups, from the tomato-based pork menudo to the funky shrimp paste and coconut pork stew known as Bicol Express. Other Filipino classics include kare-kare, a peanut stew with beef and bok choy, and sisig, a chopped pork dish with onions, soya sauce, and chili peppers. Lola’s sisig is a standout, with a rich, smoky and spicy flavour. Sisig is traditionally paired with white rice, a squeeze of citrus and a cold beer, which is easy to understand after a few big bites of this spicy dish.
SWEET ENDINGS
TAKE THE KAIN TAYO TOUR
Finally, for dessert, a plethora of choices fan out across the city. Halo-halo is arguably the most Buko Pandan well-known Filipino dessert, a mix of crushed ice, mashed ube, flan, jelly, sweet corn, and ice cream, and Pacific Hut Restaurant’s version is a classic example. Buko pandan is an equally delicious dessert comprised of young coconut, condensed milk, and pandan-flavored jello and tapioca pearls. While famous for its fried chicken, international Filipino chain Max’s Restaurant also makes a solid buko pandan topped with coconut ice cream. To finish things off, try out Calgarian Abbey Claro’s Filipino-inspired ice cream flavors at her namesake ice cream parlour.
Rise N’ Shine Breakfast Place 2014 36th St. S.E. | 403.271.5170 rnsbreakfastplace.com The Red Box Gourmet 3725 Rundlehorn Dr. N.E. | 403.457.7269 theredboxgourmet.com Marcus Special Kakanin 3607 17th Ave. S.E. 403.991.6223 and 403.248.8429 Orders via phone and Facebook Roc's Grill 285 Shawville Blvd. S.E. 403.891.5158 | rocsgrill.ca Chopstix Filipino Restaurant 5315 17th Ave. S.E. and 9679 Macleod Tr. S.W. 403.235.1682 and 403.251.0740 chopstixrestaurant.com Lola's Filipino Kitchen 255 28th St. S.E. | 403.235.1210 lolasfilipinokitchen.com Max's Restaurant 3581 20th Ave. N.E. | 403.453.2111 maxsrestaurantna.com Pacific Hut Restaurants and Bakeshop 3223 17th Ave. S.E. | 403.248.2466 pacifichut.ca Abbey’s Creations Multiple Calgary locations abbeyscreations.com
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CELEBRATING 10 YEARS
Photos by Brandon Ball
INTRODUCING OUR ALBERTA-RAISED 100% WAGYU BEEF
Brant Lake 100% Wagyu beef and Japanese A5 coming soon to BLW Butcher Shop
Distributed across Canada
507 - 42 AVENUE SE CALGARY AB | 587 352.3311 | BRANTLAKEWAGYU.CA
Escape to the Farm Pasu Farm is a country oasis offering elegant simplicity. Take in magnificent mountain views and bucolic landscapes from our restaurant or patio. The boutique is a shopper’s delight with a selection of unique and handmade products and gifts. Enjoy a home cooked meal at the farm and explore our freezer for fully-prepared take-home dishes. We offer a variety of “special day” options (indoor and outdoor, casual or formal) for your special occasion.
40 minutes north of Calgary | 403.337.2800 or 1.800.679.7999 | www.pasu.com 14 L AT E S P R I N G 2022 S AVO U RC A LG A RY.c a
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TeAmo Fruit Tea Fresh and Local Market & Kitchens 12445 Lake Fraser Dr. S.E. 403.397.7398 teamofruittea.com
Grace Wang
TeAmo’s Piña Apple
Grace Wang
Market Report TEAMO FRUIT TEA
SAFFRON STREET
These days, Calgary is no stranger to bubble tea. Countless shops selling the tasty, highly customizable drink have sprung up across the city. Invented in Taiwan, bubble tea is served cold or hot with a tea or milk base, flavouring (think fruits, nuts, chocolate and so on), and add-ons like tapioca pearls and jelly. TeAmo Fruit Tea is a local stall that stands out for its use of fresh fruit and real tea instead of the artificial syrups, powders and concentrates sometimes found in bubble tea shops.
Chefs Rahul Kanojia and Jesse Mann have made it a mission to introduce Calgary to regional dishes and street food snacks from all over India. Starting as a pop-up, Saffron Street’s popularity led to their stall at First Street Market, which opened last year. Since then, Kanojia and Mann have been churning out classic Indian street-food snacks like dahi puri and pav bhaji.
Founder Clement Ng opened up TeAmo Fruit Tea at Fresh and Local Market & Kitchens in 2019 out of a desire to use fresh produce and loose-leaf tea in his bubble tea creations. You will find team members frequently peeling, chopping and juicing fruits while steeping tea. TeAmo’s Piña Apple is a popular tropical drink that is a visual and gustatory delight. It has a fresh pineapple juice slushie base, green tea, cold-pressed apple juice, coconut jelly, tapioca pearls and is finished with a fan of crisp apple slices on top. Another hit is TeAmo’s cozy Ginger Apple tea, which features freshly pressed ginger and apple juices mixed with a delicate, caffeine-free rose tea. For the perfect accompaniment to TeAmo’s teas, pick up one of Ng’s housemade mochi — you won’t regret it.
Dahi puri is a bite-sized snack with a crispy, fried flour shell filled to the brim with a spicy mix of potatoes, onions and chickpeas. Covered with dollops of yogurt, tamarind and mint chutney, the dish is finished with crunchy fried noodles called sev, chopped cilantro and pomegranate seeds. Saffron Street’s dahi puri is meant to be eaten in one bite and packs such enormous flavour it is impossible to stop at just one. For something more substantial, pav bhaji, is a combination of warm, buttered dinner rolls paired with a spicy thick gravy of potatoes, tomatoes and assorted vegetables. Saffron Street bakes fresh rolls daily for the dish, which is pillowy soft and the perfect vehicle for the rich, spicy bhaji.
Saffron Street Dahi Puri
Saffron Street First Street Market 1327 1st St. S.W. Instagram: @saffronstreetyyc
As a new business, the chefs and founders acknowledge that every day presents a new challenge, but they are spurred onwards by their supportive customers. A market favourite is their rotating regional plate feature, which highlights traditional curries from different parts of India; so far, Mann and Kanojia have presented the flavours of Punjab, Maharashtra, Kashmir and New Delhi. We can’t wait to taste more!
FRESH
MARKE T REPORT SPONSORED BY:
FRESH•LOCAL•VEGETABLES ALBERTA GROWN Vegetables are in Full Swing
VOTED
BEST FOOD STORE IN CALGARY
Shop online at FreshAndLocalFarmOutlet.com
1 block north of the Canyon Meadows LRT Located next to the Collective Beer Store
D441, 12445 Lake Fraser Drive SE Calgary, AB
Monday to Saturday 10a-6p; Sundays 11a-5p
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FIVE YEARS AGO, LESLIE BULL QUIT HER JOB AND DOVE INTO HER PASSION: MAKING BANNOCK. OFTEN SOMETHING SHE SHARED WITH HER GRANDCHILDREN, BULL CALLED HER OPERATION KOKUM’S (GRANDMA IN CREE) BANNOCK KITCHEN AND CATERING, WHICH YOU CAN ENJOY AT FRESH MARKET AND KITCHENS. WE SAT DOWN WITH HER AS SHE MADE HER SPECIALTY AND WE HAD A FEW QUESTIONS.
MEET Leslie Bull
Proprietor, Kokum’s Bannock Kitchen and Cater In
tche
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Ki
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What's your favourite 10-minute meal to make at home? Bannock What ingredient can you not do without? Flour What's your guilty-pleasure food? Ice cream. Vanilla. It’s good just as it is. What do you always have in your fridge? Milk and eggs What would you change about your home kitchen?
7 YEARS
Celebrating
More workspace! Maybe an island. Who do you like to cook with? The grandbabies. They’re more open to new things and new ideas. I have 30 grandchildren. The oldest is 21 and the youngest is two this year.
Calgary, thank you for one more year of your support!
What do you like to make for guests? We make a really good stew. There’s an ingredient we put in everything from stew to burgers that is what makes it taste unique. What's something you wish everybody knew about Indigenous food? What’s interesting is that everybody’s (bannock) tastes different using the same four ingredients. For me, I believe that when you cook in good spirit the goodness is going into your food and creating that connection. My husband won’t eat food I make if I’m angry or not in good spirit. When I’m cooking for people, I believe the most important ingredient is my soul.
#EATATMINAS
(403) 454-2550 136 2nd STREET SW minassteakhouse.coM
Churrascaria & Restaurante OPEN FOR DINE-IN, TAKEOUT, DELIVERY & CATERING
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B y K A R E N R A L PH
ÉLAN BOURGUIGNON & SPATZLE I’ve never understood the point of hunting, so it’s from the height of hypocrisy that I admit I’ve always wanted to cook and eat moose meat. While visiting family in Dawson Creek at Christmas, I might have mentioned this to my niece and her husband who just happened to have some in their freezer. Without hesitation, they offered me a brisket which I readily accepted. The simplest way to cook a challenging piece of meat is for a long time over low heat. I needed a tried-and-true recipe and so Boeuf Bourguignon became Élan Bourguignon. I used a vegetable stock instead of beef stock so as not to interfere with the flavour of the moose. Plus I used the entire tin of tomato paste (it’s only 155ml) and a full bottle of wine. Cooking time is just under 4 hours and I used a 5.2 L Staub pot. If you aren’t lucky enough to have access to a moose brisket, you could of course use other game meats like bison or elk or stick with beef – any which way, this is a great recipe.
Ingredients
130g (1 cup) flour 15 ml (1 Tbsp) kosher salt
1 L (4 ¼ cups) bowl ice water 3 medium carrots 700g (1½ lbs) of mixed mushrooms 225 g (½ lb) bacon cut into lardons 1 L (4¼ cups) vegetable stock 1 bottle of inexpensive red wine (I used a Chianti)
Stock
Spaetzle
Boil water with 15 ml (1 Tbsp) salt
2 packs of white pearl onions, about 30
1 L (4½ cups) vegetable stock
1.3 kg (2.5 lb.) package of frozen Spaetzle
1 L (4½ cups) water brought to boil
750 ml (3 cups) red wine
4 L (4 qt.) boiling water
155 ml (5.5 oz) tin of tomato paste
30 ml (2 Tbsp) kosher salt
Simmer moose brisket for 10 minutes to remove any strong flavours. Drain water
Sprigs of rosemary
Once cool, cut brisket into 2½ cm (2-inch) cubes, pat dry
Bowl of ice water set to side
Toss cubes inflour with 30 ml (2 Tbsp) salt until completely coated. Melt 45 ml (3 Tbsp) salted butter in large deep casserole pot with a lid Sear meat cubes in small batches, setting aside when finished Once cooled, meat can be stored sealed in the fridge until needed
Carrots
15 ml (1 Tbsp) salted butter
4 L (4 quarts) water, simmering
1 L (4 cups) boiling water
Pearl Onions
3 medium carrots, cubed
1.5 kg (3.5 lbs) moose brisket
2 packages white pearl onions (about 30 onions)
Meat
155 ml (5.5 oz) tin of tomato paste 2 cloves garlic 170g (12 Tbsp ) salted butter Sprigs of rosemary and thyme 1, 1.3 kg (2.5 lb) package of frozen spaetzle 4 L (4 quarts) boiling water (for the spaetzle) 30 ml (2 Tbsp) kosher salt
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Add butter to the pot, melt it and sautée the carrots until tender. Remove from pot, cool and set aside — these will be added to the stock
45 ml (3 Tbsp) salted butter These can be frozen and ready to use, or you can prepare them yourself. If preparing, add the onions to the boiling water and leave for 4 minutes. Drain and shock in ice water. Cutting of the furry end, slip the onions out of their skins. Melt butter in the same pot used to fry the moose cubes and add the onions, gently rolling them around until browned all over – they won’t be uniform. Don’t worry about it. Remove them from the pot and once cooled, store them in a lidded container in the fridge until needed.
Mushrooms
Bacon
700g (1 ½ lbs) of mixed mushrooms, sliced (I used a mix of brown button and shiitakes)
225g (½ lb) bacon cut into matchsticksized lardons
45 ml (3 Tbsp) salted butter Melt butter in the pot and add small batches of mushrooms, browning them as evenly as possible. Once browned, removed from pot, cool and store in lidded container in fridge until needed
Fry the bacon in the pot, remove, pat the excess grease off and store in lidded container in fridge until needed
Sautéed carrot cubes 2 mashed garlic cloves with the green centre removed Sprigs of thyme and rosemary Combine ingredients in 5 L (5 qt.) pot, cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Cool, and store in fridge until needed
Boil water, add salt and spaetzle, stir briefly to ensure they don’t stick together and cook for 10-12 minutes While noodles are cooking melt 45 ml (3 Tbsp) butter in a large frying pan. When the noodles are done, drain and dump them into the hot skillet and sautée for about 3 minutes until the noodles are coated with butter.
Assembly Preheat the oven to 175 C (350 F) Discard layer of coagulated fat that will have risen to the top of the stock. Add the stock and the seared moose cubes to the cast-iron, lidded pot. Cover and cook for 2.5 hours. Remove from oven and add the carrots, onions, bacon lardons and mushrooms. Give the pot a good stir, return it to the oven and cook for another 1.5 hours. If it seems to be cooking too quickly, turn the heat down to 150 C (300 F). When it’s finished, the sauce should coat a spoon. Using tongs, remove the herb twigs and using a spoon, skim off any fat. If the sauce is too
thick, thin it with a bit of water, and if it’s too thin, reduce it on the stove top, but after almost 4 hours in the oven, it should be perfect.
Serving Tilt spaetzle onto a serving platter, garnish with chopped parsley and serve alongside the pot of Élan Bourguignon with a hearty bread.
N E W S , notes & happenings | Q U I C K B I T E S Photo provided
Quick Bites FRESH AND FABULOUS
If variety is the spice of life, a new cocktail bar in the Beltline/Victoria Park is on fire! Missy’s This and That is the latest offering from Thomas Dahlgren (Bar Von der Fels) and features an abundant menu of wine, beer and cocktails made from an impressive menu of spirits. The food offering is simple tapas and snacks with a custom key lime pie by Citizen Bakery we can’t wait to try. Visit Thurs.-Mon. 5 p.m. – 1 a.m.
The YYC Growers cooperative prides itself on being not just sustainable but, even more importantly, regenerative. Regenerative farming is a dynamic state of being. A regenerative farmer is guided by this question, “Is my soil better this season than last?” The key impacts of asking this question are that the soil’s produce is more nutritious and flavourful.
Missy’s This and That | Second Floor, 348A 14th Ave. S.W. missy@missysthisthat.com | missysthisthat.com
HOME GROWN
Photo provided
THIS, THAT AND THE OTHER
GET YOUR MỘT TÔ RUNNING The fine folks at Calgary favourite PhỞ Dau Bo restaurant on International Ave. have done it again with a new offering in Crescent Heights called Một Tô. Meaning “one bowl” in Vietnamese, the new eatery is contemporary, sleek and the pho grilled cheese is making waves. We can’t wait to try it! MộT TÔ | BÁNH MÌ & PHỞ BAR | 1609 Centre St. N.W. 825.910.8488 | mottovietnamese.com
YYC Growers | 18, 4750 106th Ave. S.E. | 403.719.4769 yycgrowers.com
In 2021, the Sunterra group built one of the largest greenhouses in Alberta. In this 20-acre glass greenhouse in Acme, AB they are growing Dutch strawberries and tomatoes all year long. Available in Sunterra stores throughout Alberta. Sunterra | sunterramarket.com
CHEESE WHIZZES Congratulations to the winners of last issue's Cheese Quiz: 1st Dave and Roxanne Wray win $100 at Modern Steak. 2nd Karen GilmoreThomson wins $100 at Spolumbo's 3rd Albert Herscovitch wins $50 at Spolumbo's. Thanks to the 200+ people who played!
Một Tô pho broth
Sunterra Greenhouse
Soulful recipes inspired by our families straight from the heart of old Italy and made in-house daily.
Our famous sausages are only one part of our story. Check out Spolumbo’s for stress-free office, event and home catering. Our in-house deli and ready-to-eat take-home meals are just waiting for you! Visit us in Inglewood at 1308 9 Avenue SE | spolumbos.com
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CASUAL ITALIAN
Congratulations to our friends at North Sea Fish Market Willow Park for winning top seafood market in Calgary for the fourth year in a row in the Top Choice Awards.
YYC Pasta Bar has opened its second location in Kensington in the former Cotto space. This bigger, more intimate space offers the same affordable and delicious food as the 17th Ave. location plus a private dining room. Reservations recommended.
GRATEFUL FOR GRATIN
Camie Leard
North Sea Fish Market | 300, 10816 Macleod Tr. S.E. | 403.225.3460 Instagram @CalgaryFreshFish
The unassuming Center Café opened in April on the corner of Centre St. and 16th Ave. N.W., an offering from the folks behind Chef Tian restaurant. Specializing in lunch and brunch, Center Café handles the day shift and Seafood gratin Chef Tian takes over for Chinese food in the evening. Try the seafood gratin for brunch. Fresh seafood bathed in a thick and creamy sauce is topped with a generous helping of cheese and baked to perfection. It’s a delicious dish perfect to share with a friend.*
YYC Pasta Bar | 314 D 10th St. N.W. 403.474.9111 | yycpastabar.ca
Photo provided
FINS AND WINS
Raising the bar on pasta
28 YEARS AND COUNTING Willow Park Wines & Spirits celebrated 28 years in business in March and continues to celebrate with a packed schedule of online and in-store events for lovers of wine, beer and spirits. Willow Park Wines & Spirits | willowpark.net
SUGAR SPICE AND EVERYTHING NICE Sugar and Spice Wrangled Up Nice pancake and waffle mix by Lannie Rae Gourmet celebrates the wholesomeness of the farm. Plan your own Stampede pancake breakfast at home with this hearty harvest of Canadian grown oats and flax. Lannie Rae Gourmet | lannieraegourmet.com
Center Café | 1715 Centre St. N.W. | 403.453.8666 | Instagram @centercafeyyc
NEW RESIDENTS IN THE VILLAGE Village Brewery sent over a couple of their latest offerings themed around our modern media-infused lifestyle. We tried Misheard Lyrics and Binge Watch, both of which live up to Village’s reputation for great brews and cool packaging.* Village Brewery | 5000 12A St. S.E. | 403.243.3327 villagebrewery.com
AIN’T LIFE GRAND? Congratulations to Stephen Deere and the Modern Group for officially celebrating the opening of Southport Modern Steak and Modern Ocean with a glitzy bash in April. The food community was out en masse for one of the first times since pandemic restrictions lifted and all were treated to great food, drink and even some spins on the turntable by Deere himself. Modern Steak/Modern Ocean | 10606 Southport Rd. S.W. | 403.300.1424 modernsteak.ca
COFFEE WITH A VIEW Gravity Espresso and Wine Bar has opened its third cafe in the Waterfront Towers in Eau Claire. With locations already in Inglewood and Beltline, this new stop is just steps away from the Bow River pathways promising coffee with a view. Gravity Espresso & Wine Bar | 240 Riverfront Ave. S.W. | 403.452.1431 | cafegravity.com
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*Hosted our meal, but did not approve the story
FIRED UP Watch Jenny Burthwright of Jane Bond BBQ compete in the new season of Food Network Canada’s Fire Masters. In anticipation, Jenny collaborated with Cold Garden Brewery to create a beer called She Phoenix. The flavours in this new brew compliment her final entry in her episode. Find it on tap in the brewery and her eatery just in time for her episode to air on May 15.
Photo provided
She Phoenix | Cold Garden Beverage Company | 1100 11 St. S.E. | coldgarden.ca She Phoenix | Jane Bond BBQ | 321, 723 46 Ave. S.E. | janebondbbq.com
plant based and cruelty free
BRITISH WHIMSY IN A GLASS The Dorian Hotel (opening June 23) has partnered with Eau Claire Distillery to develop specialtydistilled spirits. This partnership will provide guests and locals one-of-a-kind spirits specifically crafted to capture the essence and personality of the hotel. The Dorian Hotel | 525 5th Ave. S.W. 403.899.8694 | thedorian.ca
HAIL CAESAR’S! Congratulations to Calgary icon Caesar’s Steakhouse, now celebrating 50 years in business. Their luxurious environment, prime Alberta beef, Wine Spectator-awarded wine list and personalized service, have made Caesar’s the fine dining destination for celebrations, commemorations and reminiscing for three generations. Proudly leading this award-winning establishment is still one of the original owners, Con Giannoulis, alongside his daughter, Connie Giannoulis-Stuart, and son-in-law, Gerry Stuart. Caesar’s Steakhouse Downtown | 512 4th Ave. S.W. | 403.264.1222 Caesar’s Steakhouse Willow Park | 110, 10816 Macleod Tr. S.E. | 403.278.3930 caesarssteakhouse.com
A T D A L H O U S I E S T A T I O N 403.286.5220 www.zestkitchenware.com
Wild game is good food. Honey Garlic Five-spice Black Bear Meatballs
HarvestYourOwn.ca
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F U N F O O D T A L E S f rom the f ront line | F U N N Y B O N E S
OUC H!
W I L DE R N E S S!
It’s no picnic Every year, as the summer solstice looms, I begin my ritual dreaming. Yes! Warm summer evenings, soft breezes, the poetic leaves of the old oak tree offering comfort and solace over an elegant table set for a dozen with baskets of wine, linens and romantic candles. I love dining al fresco. Until I actually have to do it. Inspired by scenes from books and movies, I regularly delude myself. I want to be like Ratty and Mole in Wind in the Willows, rejoicing in resplendent riverside picnics. I want to set a table in the woods like the one in the obscure Katherine Hepburn film, Sylvia Scarlett (although I wouldn’t punch out the host’s paramour as Hepburn did). All so pastoral, poetic, romantic. Then, the reality of dining outdoors hits my eye like a big pizza pie. No matter what, there are going to be armies of ants, clouds of pollen, trails of slugs, screeching magpies and perhaps a neighbourhood pooch digging under the fence to purloin a pork loin.
B y L I N DA K U PE C E K
The last time I attempted a backyard garden party with shrimp, cheese, smoked salmon, rustic bread, veggies and pate laid out beautifully, a horde of wasps descended on us like a plague of locusts. My guests and I ran indoors screaming, weeping, swatting at imaginary bites, ultimately cowering in the kitchen behind barricaded doors.
It must be in the genes. Generations of women in my family are known for breaking up with gentleman friends if they dare utter the terrifying words, “Let’s go on a picnic,” or worse, “Let’s go camping.” (And it seems to me, it is always the women who do the suffering on a camping trip, but then, I am no authority as I have made it this far in life without ever So, that dream bit the dust. The reverie of having gone camping, and therefore, I think I cold chicken, olives, asparagus and decanters am safe for the next few decades.) I need to of wine in the great outdoors: bye-bye. be A Very Good Person for the rest of my life, I have made my choice. Why would one want to dine because if I were to end up on the wrong side with wasps, when one could be safe indoors, bite of purgatory (you know, the hot side) I am sure free, and not sneezing every two minutes? If a friend it would be on a camping trip, listening to talk invites me to lunch and insists we sit on the patio – radio and country music, eating salmonellagulp – of course I smile and agree. No matter if I have laced potato salad, and e. coli burgers. left my sunglasses in the car. I don’t mind squinting So there you have it. Masochists: go into the and weeping through a meal, as I contemplate wilderness and enjoy! Me? I want elegant (or macular degeneration. No matter if a bee lands on at least uncontaminated) food, comfy chairs, my eggs benedict. Or if the wind blows my hair into screen windows and Mozart, Jobim or Tony spikes. I acknowledge that Everybody Else in the Bennett on the turntable. Ultimately, we all Entire Universe thinks it is a joy to dine outside. have a duty to please ourselves (without Of course, in pandemic times, dining outdoors trampling on the rights or feelings of others.) has been prudent, and I have done my share of it Let’s honour freedom of choice and be kind in the past two years. I won’t pretend I liked it. to each other, to nature and to ourselves.
Smell that summertime sizzle!
Our stores are stocked daily with farm-raised Piedmontese beef, Alberta pork, veal, and bison. Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.
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EDMONTON | CALGARY | SHERWOOD PARK 22 L AT E S P R I N G 2022 S AVO U RC A LG A RY.c a
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