Savour Calgary - Summer

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THE MIGHTY HOT DOG

ASTER’S BEYAYNETU

A story of courage, resilience and a really spicy shiro

POSH PICNICS

Everything you need to take the gourmet outside

FRESH. LOCAL. STORIES FOR FOOD LOVERS. SUMMER 2023

SUCKER PUNCH

1 oz Monin

Tart Cherry Syrup

2 oz pineapple juice

1 oz orange juice

1/2 oz lime juice

3 oz club soda

Fill glass full of ice and pour ingredients in order listed.

Pour mixture into mixing glass and back into serving glass to mix.

Garnish with a cherry, a slice of orange and a pineapple leaf.

We’ve posted this and other MONIN SUMMER RECIPES online.

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Somewhere in a neglected drawer or box under the stairs, there's probably a picture of you stuck inside an old photo album. You're four or five years old and in your backyard, probably in your underwear. Your hair is on end, sticky with honey or maybe sap and your plastic sunglasses are on upside down. Smeared with a little mud, a bit of ketchup and a cheeky grin, your face is freckled and brown with the kiss of sunshine. And in your grubby hand is the squished remnants of a hot dog, a splotch of relish dripped onto your little pot belly. This is the very soul of summer in Southern Alberta. If you grew up here, or any place where the summers are short and precious, you have that essence of a perfect summer day tucked into your psyche. Bare feet on green grass, sunshine past your bedtime, pedaling your bike as fast as you can with absolute abandon of childhood and, of course, eating outside.

Dining al fresco has a way of transporting us back to those magical summer days of raiding the garden for sweet baby carrots, roasting weenies at the backyard fire pit and chasing the ice cream truck down the road, a pink two-dollar bill waving madly. These days we might be picnicking on a Le Jaquard Français beach towel (see Page 22), enjoying a gourmet dog from Tubby's (cover) or making our own churn-free coffee ice cream (Page 14), but the feeling's the same: freedom, fun and that keen sense that where you are, who you're with and what you're eating is something special, something ephemeral and something to be savoured. Like that little kid in the picture, these golden days don't last forever. Soak them in with family, friends and the flavours of summer. Spend time in your back yard (pants optional) or on one of Calgary's great patios (pants recommended) and connect to the magic that is summertime in Calgary.

Savour Calgary tells the food stories that happen at Mohkínstsis, located in the traditional territories of the Niitsitapi and the people of the Treaty 7 region and the Métis Nation of Alberta, Region 3. We acknowledge the indigenous people of this area as keepers of the land and water that make these stories possible and thank them for their hospitality and stewardship of this place. 2023 ISSUE

12 Aster ’s Beyaynetu

Feature
resilience and a really spicy shiro.
Fraser Valley A gastro-geekʼs slice of heaven. The Regulars
Savour Selects
Fresh Market Summer Berries
Master Class No Churn Coffee Ice Cream
Crash Course The Mighty Hot Dog 21 Market Report 22 Shop Local Posh Picnics 26 Quick Bites 31 Funnybones Welcome | FROM THE EDITOR SAVOURCALGARY.ca Contents 12 16 24
Courage,
24
5
11
14
16
SUMMER 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 3
SCHEDULE Watch for Savour Calgary on newsstands throughout 2023. Harvest | September 6-8 Holiday | November 8-10

Two-Ingredient Chocolate Mousse

In his book Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the Science of Flavour (Columbia University Press, 2008), French chemist Hervé This detailed how make creamy dairy-free chocolate mousse with just 2 ingredients: high-quality couverture chocolate and water. In traditional mousse recipes, cream and egg are required to create the proper frothy texture of the dessert. But Hervé This figured out that mousse made using couverture chocolate doesn’t need the fat from the cream or the lecithin from the eggs to become a mousse. Couverture chocolate already contains enough fat (in the form of extra cocoa butter) as well as lecithin (commonly used as an emulsifier to bind cocoa solids, cocoa butter, and sugar), so all that is needed in order to create a mousse is liquid and whisking. Amazing!

Ingredients:

8 ounces couverture chocolate (either Cococo bittersweet, semisweet, or milk chocolate couverture)

Directions:

3/4 c (6 ounces) water ice cubes whipped cream for topping (optional)

1. Prepare an ice bath: fill a large bowl with ice and water. Set aside.

2. Heat 3/4 c water (or other liquid*) in a small saucepan. Heat until gently boiling; add the chopped chocolate. Remove from heat and whisk until melted. Stir until the chocolate is completely melted and the water and chocolate are combined.

3. Place the saucepan in the ice bath (if your saucepan is too large to fit the ice bath, you can transfer the chocolate mixture into a separate small bowl).

4. While resting in the ice bath, whisk the chocolate sauce (use a hand whisk or an electric mixer. If using an electric mixer, watch closely—it will thicken quickly). Whisk until it resembles lightly-whipped cream**, about 2 minutes. Whisking creates large air bubbles in the mixture, which causes it to steadily thicken.

5. Pour or spoon immediately into 4 ramekins, small bowls, or jars.

6. If you'd like, top with whipped cream, fresh fruit (strawberries, raspberries, or pomegranate), and/or toasted nuts.

7. Serve immediately. This chocolate mousse is best enjoyed right away—refrigerating it makes it lose its fluffy texture.

Notes:

* Flavour variations: Instead of water, use the same amount of another liquid. For example: tea, coffee, orange juice, passion fruit juice, rum, whisky, Kahlúa, or cherry liqueur. You can even add spices, like cinnamon, or stir in a bit of sugar if you'd like it sweeter.

** Trouble shooting: If the mixture is very thick and grainy-looking, that means you have over whipped. Don't worry, it's not ruined! You can re-melt the mixture in a microwave-safe bowl in the microwave in 10-second intervals until smooth and try again. The remelted mixture will not completely deflate. Whisk gently until slightly thickened but still slightly looser than the first attempt, 30 seconds to 1 minute.

chocolate together chocolate together

PUBLISHER

Debbie Lambert debbie@savourcalgary.ca

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Camie Leard camie@savourcalgary.ca

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Ellen Kelly ellen@savourcalgary.ca

COMMUNICATIONS & MARKETING MANAGER

Wanda Baker wanda@savourcalgary.ca

MAGAZINE DESIGN

Cheryl Starr Design Group stellardesign.ca

COVER

This hot mess is the Aunt May dog from Tubby's shot by Michal Maciaszek

CONTRIBUTORS

Janey Bevan Renu Chandarana

Ellen Kelly

Linda Kupecek

Patricia Lau

Camie Leard

Grace Wang

ADVERTISING INQUIRIES advertising@savourcalgary.ca

WEBSITE TECHNICAL ADVISOR

Todd Robertson web@savourcalgary.ca

DISTRIBUTION

James Norman distribution@savourcalgary.ca

Savour Calgary is a bi-monthly magazine published by Savour Calgary Ltd. Savour Calgary is published six times per year. Winter, Early Spring, Late Spring, Summer, Fall, Holiday

CONTACT INFORMATION

PHONE: 403.475.5809

EMAIL: info@savourcalgary.ca

POST MAIL: c/o 42 Candle Terrace SW, Calgary, T2W 6G7

FOR MORE INFORMATION SEE US AT savourcalgary.ca

Scan for more recipes

www.CococoChocolatiers.com

@Cococo_Chocolates @CococoChocolates @ChocBernCal

FOR EDITORIAL INQUIRIES CONTACT camie@savourcalgary.ca

Savour Calgary has made all efforts to ensure that content in the magazine is accurate on the date of publication. The views expressed in the articles reflect the author(s) opinions and do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher or editor. The published material, advertisements, editorials and photographs along with all other content is published in good faith and Savour Calgary cannot guarantee and accepts no liability for any loss or damage of any kind caused by any errors, omissions and for the accuracy of claims made by the advertisers or any other contributors. All trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner and Savour Calgary will be held harmless in the event that the advertiser or contributor has submitted trademarks for which they do not have authorization from the owner. All rights reserved by Savour Calgary and nothing can be partially or in whole be reprinted or reproduced without the written consent of the publisher at Savour Calgary Ltd.

4 SUMMER 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca

Savour selects

LEGACY, FRIENDSHIP AND NEW BEGINNINGS

The story of Friends Café is a testament to the power of friendship, resilience and the pursuit of dreams. Founded 27 years ago by three friends, it has become a beloved institution in the heart of Edgemont. Last year, as the previous owner decided to retire, a new chapter began and the torch was passed into the capable hands of Adelle Van Antwerpen, her husband Gerard and their son Bernard. Their journey had brought them from South Africa to the Middle East and eventually to Calgary. They have attempted to preserve the cherished traditions while introducing new items like Bob and Barb sandwiches, Friday clam chowder, milk tart and bobotie, which have already garnered praise from regular patrons and newcomers alike. As they recently celebrated their one-year anniversary of owning the café, the van Antwerpen family has embraced the challenge of carrying forward the legacy, honouring the founders’ vision while adding their unique touch. This atmosphere of friendship and connection they have nurtured makes it a popular neighbourhood hub.

Friends Café | 45 Edenwold Dr. N.W. | 403.241.5526 | friendscafeyyc.ca

THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS

The enchanting Ruby and the Beast owned by the talented duo Kathleen Davidson and Sarah Scheller, has already captured the hearts and palates of food enthusiasts across the city. With the extraordinary culinary skills of chef Cody Fummerton, the bistro has emerged as a dining destination offering great food and affordable cocktails. The restaurant’s updated interior creates an ambiance that complements the cuisine. Fummerton has crafted a menu to showcase the best of local and seasonal ingredients. Whether it’s a burger made with Alberta beef or the vadouvan curry fiddleheads, each dish is a work of art that delights both the eyes and the palate. During our visit, we inhaled the baked kashkaval cheese with fresh figs and the prawn ceviche. With its enchanting ambiance, innovative cuisine, impeccable service and community involvement, this eatery offers a complete sensory experience that will leave you spellbound.* Ruby and the Beast | 1111 7th St. S.W. | 403.457.7829 | rubyandthebeast.ca

TOP PICKS from Savour staff | SAVOUR SELECTS Savou r *Meals were hosted, but articles were not provided for approval.
Patricia Lau Photo provided Ruby and the Beast's Kathleen Davidson
SUMMER 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 5
Friends Café

UNVEILING THE ESSENCE OF LUXURY

Located on Stephen Ave., UNTITLED Champagne Lounge is a haven for champagne enthusiasts and connoisseurs. It has become a symbol of sophistication and elegance in downtown Calgary with its impeccable ambiance and curated selection of bubbly delights. A warm, inviting atmosphere with soft lighting creates an intimate experience and the smallbut-feisty menu commands attention. Standouts include the foie parfait, scallops Waldorf and duck confit croquette. The caviar service is a must-try with blinis, Pernod meringue, burnt yogurt sauce, compressed shallots, chives, fried capers and caviar. Whether you’re a seasoned aficionado or a curious beginner, the knowledgeable staff is always ready to guide you through the choices, helping you find the perfect bubbly to suit your taste and occasion.

UNTITLED Champagne Lounge | 104, 620 8th Ave. S.W. | 403.475.7226 | untitledyyc.com

AN IMMERSIVE CULINARY EXPERIENCE

Newly opened Lina’s Italian Piazza is a treasure trove for lovers of il cibo Italiano. Step inside and you are immediately transported to Italy, where the aroma of freshly baked bread, simmering sauces and fresh produce fills the air. Located in the space formerly occupied by Bite Grocer & Eatery, the market’s shelves are stocked with imported Italian ingredients. Throughout the store, stations like an artisanal bakery, gelato, a grab-andgo section and prosciutto bar make for an interesting shopping experience. Sapore, which means “flavour” in Italian, is the sit-down restaurant that invites you on an unforgettable culinary journey, thanks to executive chef Christopher Hyde. Hyde’s distinctive approach to cooking combines tradition with innovation, creating dishes that are both nostalgic and exciting. Lina’s is known city-wide for its pop-ups and have two happening weekly at Sapore. Pizza & Destroy is a vibrant and funky Detroit pizza popup happening Wednesday evenings, and on Thursdays enjoy Pastaboy from Oz , a pop-up featuring a special playlist and menu created from chef Hyde’s travels around the world. Reservations are recommended.

Lina’s Italian Piazza | 1023 9th Ave. S.E. | 403.960.1007 | linasmarket.com/sapore

Wanda Baker Photo provided Check out Lina's Pizza & Destroy pop-up Wednesday nights.
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UNTITLED Champagne Lounge

CHRISTMAS? ALREADY?

We might be smack dab in the middle of summer, basking in warm summer days and floating the Bow without a care in the world, but soon the air will grow crisp reminding us that Christmas in November (CIN) is right around the corner. This annual celebration captivates attendees with cooking demonstrations led by a variety of esteemed chefs. Anna and Michael Olson, known for their culinary expertise and passion for Canadian cuisine, are annual guest favourites inspiring attendees with their innovative cooking techniques. Emily Richards, a culinary expert and cookbook author, will showcase her unique approach to holiday cooking, offering tips and tricks to create memorable feasts at home. Joining them are Bonnie Stern, Anna Rupert , David Adjey, John Higgins, and Elia Herrara each bringing their distinct styles and culinary prowess to the stage. Whether you are a food lover, an aspiring chef or simply seeking a holiday experience like no other, Christmas in November in Jasper is sure to leave you with cherished memories and a heart full of festive cheer. Book your tickets early before this event sells out.

Christmas in November | Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge christmasinnovember.com

JUST CALL ME MISTER

The team behind Papi Bar and Please Don’t Tell Cocktail Lounge recently opened the newest member of the family, Mister M. Chef Kevin Murphy brings his rich experience to this, his first opening as head chef. The menu offers accessible choices with lots of small plates and desserts to choose from. We really liked the ceviche appetizer and the tres leches for dessert. A robust cocktail men u reflects the venue’s offering as a late-night bites spot with live music or a DJ from 10 p.m. to 2 a.m. complementing the atmosphere.*

Beef and Cheese

KENSINGTON 10 81 2ND AVENUE NW 403.28 7. 8544 SPRUCE CLIFF / WILDWOOD 8 SPRUCE CENTER SW 403.45 2 .3960 MAHOGANY 2 171 MAHOGANY BLVD SE 58 7. 623 .1144 CROWFOOT CROSSING 826 CROWFOOT CRESCENT NW 403.241.3475 @piejunkieyyc | piejunkie.ca
ALL BUTTER PASTRY MADE FROM SCRATCH BY HAND NO PRESERVATIVES OR FILLERS Stampede TOP PICKS from Savour staff | SAVOUR SELECTS *Hosted our meal, but did not approve the story
601 8th Ave. S.W. 403.907.0511 mistermcalgary.ca
Mister M
Leard Photo provided
Camie Hemingway daiquiri
SUMMER 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 7
Join Michael and Anna Olson for a grill class like no other. Grab a beer and sit back to learn (and taste) Michael’s hottest tips fresh off the grill.

WE ARE ALL CONNECTED

Doughlicious is built on the belief that good food connects people of all backgrounds. This rustic Mediterranean restaurant stands out as a beacon for authentic flavours and warm hospitality. Recently, owners Mohamed Omar and Samir Omar doubled the size of the eatery, creating an exciting atmosphere with the bakery viewable through large windows. Some of our weekend favourites include baklava, fresh baked pita, pita pies, samosas, pita chips, cookies and meat pies. We recently discovered the smoked brisket available only on Fridays and Saturdays. But you won’t find it on the menu. This best-kept secret is available by request or secret words like “feed me some brisket” and guarantees a tender, juicy experience. Community involvement is important, and they donate pita bread weekly to Calgary’s Food Bank while supporting local organizations like Helping Hands, IftarYYC, and Calgary Women’s Emergency Shelter. More reasons to support local. Doughlicious | 4140 6th St. N.E. | 403.230.5160 | doughlicious.ca

THAI ONE ON: ICE CREAM FOR GROWN-UPS

While we’re up for ice cream any time of the year, it’s always best in summer. On an unseasonably hot spring day in May, we found a great little hidden gem in Chinatown called Peerless Pearl Thai Rolled Ice Cream. If you’ve never had rolled ice cream, it’s fun to watch them make, as liquid cream and flavour is transformed into delicate frozen flowers of ice cream. With lots of options, everyone in your group will find something to suit their fancy. We chose the Miss Saigon (a Vietnamese coffee concoction) and the Miami Vice (coconut and pineapple). We also kicked it up a notch and added a shot of Bailey’s Irish Cream to the Miss Saigon. Given the chance to do it all again, we’d fortify the Miami Vice with some Malibu Rum. Sonny and Crocket would approve!

Peerless Pearl Thai Rolled Ice Cream | 130 2nd Ave. S.W. | 403.233.7718

peerless-pearl.business.site

Photo provided
Camie Leard Doughlicious pita pies and hummus
8 SUMMER 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca
The Miami Vice (front) and the Miss Saigon Thai rolled ice cream
SUMMER 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 9

HIDDEN GEM: SATSUKI OMAKASE AND SAKE

You may have had the good fortune of tasting Chef May Ng’s food at Concorde’s Goro + Gunn or Lonely Mouth before she made the leap into entrepreneurship with the opening of Satsuki in Kensington. Meaning “early moon” or the month of May in Japanese, the eponymous eatery is one chef’s ode to the cuisine of the land of the rising sun. Chef Ng emigrated from Hong Kong to Calgary as a teen. Her passion for Japanese food and culture led her to live and train there. Lending her time and talents to various Calgary restaurants, Ng built a reputation as an innovator in contemporary Japanese cuisine, while honouring the centuries-old traditions she learned in Japan. It was this marriage of respect and creativity that Ng says prompted her to go out on her own. And we’re so glad she did. The focused first menu shines a spotlight on Ng’s skill and imagination. A mix of small plates, sushi and entrées, the menu also offers weekly or biweekly features. For now, though, there’s so much to choose from – all available with sake pairings (Ng is a trained sake sommelier), and an exceptional tea offering.

ESCAPE ORDINARY

We began with the cherry tomato salad with black sesame dressing, which was sensational. Bright tangy tomatoes balance a dark and earthy dressing, which made our mouths water. The wagyu dumplings (beef direct from Japan) highlights Ng’s dedication to the little things. You’ll also find the A5 wagyu on a sushi roll wrapped around snappy blanched asparagus and topped with a delicious black garlic sauce.

A full array of nigiri and maki sushi is available on the menu and as a part of the omakase experience. For us, the piece de la resistance was Ng’s signature sablefish risotto, a hearty and creamy dish that is almost unbelievably dairy free.

So delicious.

For dessert, try the matcha experience (matcha cake with matcha tea) or a zingy yuzu panna cotta.*

Find Satsuki tucked away under Manana in Kensington 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.

Wednesday – Sunday.

Satsuki Omakase and Sake | 1130 Kensington Rd. N.W. 403.300.2405 | satsuki.ca

Meraki On the Go Food Truck

We bring a fun street food vibe to weddings, corporate events and private parties with our expansive menu options that allow you to personalize your food truck experience to perfection.

Meraki Cuisine

Catering

Whether you’re hosting an intimate gathering at home or a black-tie fundraiser at one of Calgary’s landmark venues, we will work with you to produce an extraordinary event.

Seriously impress your guests merakicuisine.ca 403.619.COOK (2665) Smoked pork belly, pickled vegetables, Meraki sauce
Camie Leard
10 SUMMER 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca
Ikayaki: Japanese grilled squid with house-made barbecue sauce.

Summer Berries

Ah, the berries of summer. I’ve always thought the appearance of local (and semi-local – thank goodness for B.C.) strawberries, raspberries and blueberries is what really heralds the advent of summer. We’ve whetted our appetites with the first hardy rhubarb and now we want more. (In case you were wondering why we so often see strawberries and rhubarb hand in hand, the one closely follows the other.)

In my opinion, we’ve become too accustomed to out-of-season produce. Berries, and much else, are coming from as far afield as the southern hemisphere where their summer is our winter. Do we really need fresh strawberries and blueberries in January, and from Chile, no less? Freeze and preserve for that winter treat. By buying (or picking) local seasonal fruit, you’re assured of the best quality, flavour and price. Factor in the various costs of transporting produce over such long distances and you have a more-than-compelling argument for eating as seasonally and locally as possible. Most berry recipes, for one type or another, are pretty much interchangeable. Several types of berries can easily be combined too. In season, I make a variation of a mixedberry-and-fruit sauce to have on hand for everything from simple morning yogurt to swanky dessert topping. It’s an excellent way to avoid throwing out slightly overripe or mushy berries. A few strawberries here and a handful of raspberries and blueberries there, all can be kept in reserve in the freezer until you’ve compiled enough to make sauce. Throw that slightly sad stalk (or two) of rhubarb in as well. I generally don’t fuss or measure, it isn’t an exact science. Start with maybe 500-750 ml (2-3 cups) of fruit in a saucepan, add enough fruit juice (orange is my go-to) to keep it from sticking and, if required, gradually sweeten to taste. Cook it all down over medium heat until the sugar dissolves and the fruit breaks down becoming a little jammy. There’s nothing stopping you from adding a squeeze (and zest) of lemon, a piece of cinnamon bark or a splash of orange liqueur.

Strawberries, blueberries and raspberries are hardy and grow well in this climate. That means, if you have the room and the inclination, you could have your very own little crop of berries. For the rest of us, the usual suspects are easy to find in markets and grocery stores. Which brings us to hascaps. These wonderful berries haven’t found their way into the markets quite yet but are super hardy and taste great. Anywhere you would use blueberries, hascaps stand in beautifully. If you’re thinking of planting two or three nice little shrubs (familiarize yourself with the world of pollination before planting), consider this oddly shaped little berry. And if you don’t eat them the birds will, so nothing is wasted.

A perennial favourite is shortcake, and a mention always bears repeating. A perfect strawberry shortcake is a joy forever, but it’s worth pointing out how well a mixture of berries works with scones. This is another recipe that relies on technique or procedure more than exact measurements.

Key points are as follows: a tender cake-like texture and buttery flavour are essential, so use the best scones you can find or make; only use the freshest, tastiest berries, especially where strawberries are concerned; slightly crush about half the berries and combine with the rest so the juice will sink into the split biscuit; taste the berries and determine if any additional sugar is required; always serve with whipped cream. Maybe add more sugar in the berries. Or a little somethingsomething in the whipped cream. Ginger, maybe, in the scones? All are considerations and decisions you can make based on what pleases you.

WHAT’S FRESH this season | FRESH MARKET
MARKET REPORT SPONSORED BY: Berry Del i ciouscalgaryfarmersmarket.ca SUMMER 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 11
SCAN FOR A DIVINE SUMMER BERRY SANGRIA RECIPE
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It begins in Ethiopia in 2006, when political violence following the 2005 general election saw government forces killing hundreds and detaining tens of thousands in Addis Ababa. Aster, a single mother, packed up her two toddlers and fled for Kenya, where hundreds of thousands of refugees from Somalia and Ethiopia sought asylum. Things were bleak in Nairobi as jobs were scarce within walking distance of the camps at which they were forced to live and Kenyan law prevented refugees from owning businesses. But with two mouths to feed, and humanitarian aid arriving in a feeble trickle, Aster got creative. She made friends, paid bribes and navigated a system designed to see her fail. Nevertheless, Aster opened a small restaurant serving Ethiopian, Eritrean and East African food, which kept her sons fed and clothed for the next 17 years. Back at EthniCity, flames lick the sides of three pans teetering on commercial burners. One boils dried split chickpeas, another red lentils, and one sizzles the onion, garlic, tomato base for the shiro — a flavour-packed, polenta-like porridge made from chickpea flour. Aster’s confidence radiates. Her colleagues in the kitchen make way as she reaches for another bowl, another chopping board, another knife. She hands me ziptop sandwich bags filled with spice blends; I open the one for the shiro, chickpea flour blended with wildly delicious-smelling garlic powder, turmeric and cayenne pepper, and I taste it. I suck the air through my teeth to cool my tongue and she

laughs, saying she brought it with her from Kenya and keeps it in the freezer at her sister’s house, using it sparingly to preserve the flavours of home. While Aster’s curries simmer, orders for burgers, fries and other North American diner favourites fly in around her. The poutine and wings are a far cry from the traditional doro wat and gomen she served in Nairobi, but Aster’s not fazed – in fact, she’s thrilled to be here, in this Canadian kitchen, building a new life for herself and her kids. As drought and war brought hundreds of thousands of new asylum-seekers from Sudan into Nairobi in 2022, the situation was worsening for refugees. Aster wanted a better life for her now-grown sons. So, she followed in her sister’s footsteps and fled to Canada, leaving her restaurant in the hands of a trusted friend.

Undeterred by frigid February temperatures when she arrived in the winter of 2023, Aster set to work on creating her new life in Calgary. She found herself under the wing of the Centre for Newcomers (CFN) and its social enterprise, EthniCity Catering and Café. This training program supports highly-barriered newcomers and refugees by offering classroom and kitchen training. Students prepare and sell food for the catering and café business and the revenue generated supports CFN operations. The program accepts 64 students in four cohorts per year. All students receive a food-handling certificate and help seeking employment. Partially funded by the government, EthniCity generated $300,000

for the CFN operating budget in 2022/23. The program is so successful that a large new commercial kitchen is set to open in 2023.

Today, though, Aster is working handily in the original kitchen. Just like in Nairobi, she is a onewoman show. Washing, rinsing and boiling lentils. Peeling, chopping and sautéing onions, garlic, and ginger. She makes five vegetarian Ethiopian stews, aterkeke (split chickpeas), misrekeke (red lentils), shiro (chickpea flour), gomen (kale) and key sir alicha (beets with potatoes and carrots). Each will be dished out on top of injera bread. The whole platter is known as beyaynetu.

As injera is fermented, it must be prepared in advance, so I’m sent on a mission to retrieve some from a small, pan-African shop that sells the pancake-like bread made from a fermented batter of teff and whole-wheat flours. Armed with a pack of five, I return to the café and Aster is ready to plate the stews. She lays one round injera on the platter and spoons out each of the curries, carefully dolloping each one in two different places on the injera so we won’t have to reach over each other while eating. As we devour the delicious stews, I’m present to the power of traditional recipes in not only connecting people to home, but also to each other. We’re two women from opposite sides of the globe with drastically different life stories. Yet, here we are, talking about food, motherhood, business, her hopes for her life in Canada... and sitting across a gorgeous plate of food, I can taste it for her.

Our famous sausages are
one
of our story. Check out Spolumbo’s for stress-free office, event and home catering. Our in-house deli and ready-to-eat take-home meals are just waiting for you! Visit us in Inglewood at 1308 9 Avenue SE | spolumbos.com
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Soulful recipes inspired by our families straight from the heart of old Italy and made in-house daily.
SUMMER 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 13

NO-CHURN COFFEE ICE CREAM

Ice cream. The ultimate treat. Ice cream conjures memories of good times, summer vacations and birthday parties. When I was pregnant, I ate tubs of Ben and Jerry’s Cookie Dough. I wonder if that’s why my son is one of the few people I know who doesn’t like ice cream! I dream of owning an ice cream maker, but can somehow never justify the cost or countertop space, especially as Calgary has no shortage of ice cream stores; sea salt and goat milk caramel from Made by Marcus, anyone? Or Village Ice Cream’s maple pecan... absolute heaven. And I always have a tub of Amato Gelato’s coconut gelato in the freezer. I confess to being a little late to the party when it comes to no-churn ice cream, but I am prepared to admit that it has become one of my go-to dinner party desserts. The secret? That can of condensed milk hiding at the back of your pantry.

Condensed milk has relatively low water content so it doesn’t create shards of ice that can ruin homemade ice cream. Alcohol, with its low freezing temperature, also keeps the ice cream soft and scoopable, although it still works well without. Just remember to bring the ice cream out of the freezer 15 minutes or so before you need it so that it softens up enough to scoop.

A quick internet search offers up hundreds of recipes for nochurn ice cream; I am especially grateful to Nigella Lawson and Felicity Cloake from The Guardian for inspiration and direction. My partner absolutely loves coffee ice cream, so this is for her.

Makes about 1 L (2 pints)

500 ml (15 fl oz) whipping cream

1 can (397g) condensed milk

5 ml (1 tsp) instant espresso powder, dissolved in 15 ml (1 Tbsp) hot water

30-45 ml (2-3 Tbsp) coffee liqueur any brand you prefer – rum and whisky are also good.

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Instructions

Pour and scrape the whipping cream and condensed milk into the bowl of a food mixer, or a large bowl if you are using a hand mixer. If you are feeling energetic you can also whip the mixture by hand. I was on vacation when I took the photos, so that’s what I did.

Whip until thick and fluffy and stir in the dissolved expresso powder. Add 2 Tbsp of the coffee liqueur and taste, remembering that the flavour will be less obvious after the ice cream is frozen. I usually put in all 3 Tbsp but I love the strong flavour of coffee.

Scrape the mixture into a container and freeze overnight.

Decorate with a small handful of chocolate coated coffee beans, grated chocolate or chopped nuts for texture.

Some shortbread or a couple of cantucci or amaretti cookies would be perfect to serve alongside.

TIP Use caramel condensed milk for a dulce de leche dimension.

Vegan Version

Use condensed coconut milk and coconut cream (not milk) that you have chilled in the fridge overnight.

Mix the condensed coconut milk with the dissolved expresso and 2 Tbsp of coffee liqueur.

Whip the chilled coconut cream until it just holds its shape and gradually add to the condensed coconut milk mixture. Taste and add the remaining liqueur if desired.

Scrape the mixture into a container with a lid and freeze overnight.

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SUMMER 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 15

The Mighty Hot Dog

A CRASH COURSE

The image of a wiener in a bun, topped with that singular squiggle of yellow mustard, is a distinctly American construct, instantly evoking campfires, baseball games and kids’ birthday parties. Americans devour more than seven billion hot dogs between Memorial Day and Labor Day alone. And we eat our fair share in Canada, as does the rest of the world.

THE GREAT DEBATE: WHO, EXACTLY INVENTED THE HOT DOG?

It seems EVERYONE wants to take credit for inventing the hot dog.

ROME: Roman Emperor Nero’s cook claims to have made the world’s first sausages circa 50 AD.

GERMANY: Slightly more recently, Frankfurt in Germany says Frankfurters have been making…well, Frankfurters for more than 500 years.

AUSTRIA: Vienna, (Wien, in German) says it’s the true birthplace of the “wienerwurst.”

BUT THOSE ARE WIENERS… WHEN DID THE BUNS RISE?

USA: It’s generally agreed that German (or Austrian) immigrants to America were the ones to begin serving sausages in rolls in the 1860s so street-cart customers didn’t burn their fingers.

CANADA? Well, no, but it’s worth noting that the first Coney Island hot dog (and maybe the first hot dog ever) was made in 1867, meaning Canada and hot dogs, two of America’s favourite things, were born the same year.

IT’S A DOG-EAT-DOG WORLD

While the hot dog likely originated in Germany, countries around the world have put their own spin on the classic.

The hot dog ( pølse) is considered the national snack of NORWAY. After WWII, everything American was all the rage in Norway. Of course, their version is made of reindeer meat wrapped in lefsa and topped with shrimp salad.

KOREA offers a wiener on a stick coated in batter (corn-dog style), deep fried and rolled in sugar. Other popular toppings include potato pieces, ramen, panko, cheese and anything goes when it comes to sauces. These are all the rage in Calgary right now and will be easy to find.

HAWAII gets in on the action with the puka dog: Polish sausages stuffed into a sweet Hawaiian roll and drizzled with mango mustard and pineapple

relish. They’re sweet, spicy and salty. LATIN AMERICAN salchipapas forego the bun and serve pan-fried sausage on French fries topped with ketchup, mayo, aji chili sauce and mustard.

ARGENTINIAN panchukers are made like waffles with batter in an iron contraption creating a sausage envelope.

THAILAND’s khanom Tokyo is a thin crepe with egg, soy sauce, minced pork and a sausage.

PO-KE in CRESCENT HEIGHTS

VILLAGE in Calgary has a suite of nine JAPANESE -inspired Poke Dogs with toppings like tamago, bonito flakes, crab salad and others.

Noblest of all dogs is the hot-dog; it feeds the hand that bites it.
Dr. Laurence Johnston Peter
16 LATE SPRING 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca

ZUCCHINI HOT DOG RELISH

Our requirements for a great hot dog are few but specific. We like a soft white bun, toasted if possible, a good quality boiled or steamed wiener topped with nothing more than ball-park mustard and neon-green relish. A little chopped sweet white onion and some sauerkraut would not go amiss. So, when we came across a recipe for zucchini hot dog relish during a surfeit of the inescapable summer squash, we thought, what the heck? This stuff is delicious (we think it’s the nutmeg) and could keep you from leaving zucchini on your neighbours’ doorsteps at night.

2 kg (4¼ lbs) zucchini (coarsely grated or chopped fine)

700 g (1½ lbs) or about 3 large onions (chopped fine)

3-4 large red ramiro (aka Romano chili peppers) peppers (chopped fine)

5-6 jalapeño peppers (seeded, chopped fine)

75 ml (5 Tbsp) kosher salt

Toss together and leave 8 hours or overnight.

Rinse if too salty. Squeeze out liquid.

5 ml (1 tsp) ground nutmeg

15 ml (1 Tbsp) ground turmeric

15 ml (1 Tbsp) mustard seed

15 ml (1 Tbsp) celery seed

15 ml (1 Tbsp) corn starch

625 ml (2½ cups)

apple cider vinegar

500 ml (2 cups) honey

60 ml (4 Tbsp) horseradish

AHOTDOG

Combine all ingredients in a large preserving kettle. Cook for 30 minutes, or until the relish has a loose, jammy consistency.

Fill sealer jars while hot, according to manufacturer’s instructions.

Process 25 minutes. Makes ten –250-ml (8-oz) jars

ISACTUALLYATACO THECUBERULE:

The satirical Cube Rule classifies food according to the placement of the starch. No starch is salad, starch on the bottom is toast, top and bottom is a sandwich, all the way around is sushi. Three sides, like a hot dog? Taco.

The Cube Rule of Food

For identifying dishes based on starch locations

FIND MY DOG!

Name the once ubiquitous shopping mall vendor of hot dogs and a distinctive frothy orange beverage.

Plenty of restaurants offer a hot dog on their menu; it’s a kid-pleaser, something guaranteed to keep the little darlings occupied for at least part of the meal. However, if you’re looking for the good stuff, here are a couple of recommended spots for a great dog: Karen Kho is the self-proclaimed hot dog spokeswoman... a girl after our own hearts.

Empire Provisions è they make their own wieners!

Tubby’s è once Tubby Dog, now a pub with hot dogs. They still make their signature Tubby Dog served with creamy slaw, ripple chips and a pickle. Owner Jon Truch maintains, “yellow mustard is the foundation of a great hot dog.” Agreed, with bells on. This issue’s cover is Tubby’s Aunt May featuring the house-made sausage, potato salad, cheddar cheese and green onions. Mmmmmm.

Gruman’s Catering and Delicatessen è you really can’t surpass a kosher wiener topped with good mustard and sauerkraut. Period.

Blackfoot Truckstop Diner è a worthy dog, topped with housemade chili, served on a toasted bun. And it’s a truck stop!

Brant Lake Wagyu Butcher

Shop è Feeling a little fancy? Up your game with hot dogs and smokies from Brant Lake Wagyu. It doesn’t get more local than this.

What unusual seasoning does an authentic Chicago-style hot dog have that you won’t find anywhere else?

Who served hot dogs at a picnic in Hyde Park to King George VI and Queen Elizabeth?

What country wraps their hot dogs in a potato flatbread called lefsa?

What causes the oft sought after “snap” of a hot dog wiener?

What wiener-centric treat on a stick is a must during Stampede?

Submit your answers to info@savourcalgary.ca to enter to win a $100 gourmet box from Epicureans Co. in Canmore.

Find the answers to last issue's quiz on Page 29.

1 3 4
6 2
5
Toast Sandwich Taco Sushi Soup / Salad with bread bowl Calzone
out the hilarious discussion at cuberule.com
Check
SUMMER 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 17

COOKIES BY JEN

Spritzgebäck cookies are a traditional German butter cookie, and Jennifer Schlese inherited her recipe from her beloved grandmother. After a head injury and subsequent neurological symptoms left her unable to continue her career as a youth care worker, Jen launched Cookies by Jen in 2017. “Never in a million years did I imagine that I would be selling cookies (for a living),” she says.

Jen started selling her cookies at schools and began participating in local community markets. Demand for these tasty, melt-in-your-mouth delights just kept growing. With the mentorship of Crossfield Market ’s Cheryl Shea, whom Jen refers to as “my second mother,” she grew her business and obtained the necessary certifications to sell her cookies at larger markets. Today, she is a permanent vendor at The Crossfield Farmers’ Market and Bearspaw Sunday Farmers Market

Jen’s passion for her community is easy to see; she describes her fellow vendors as family, and says she loves hearing her customers’ stories. “People say that this cookie brings them back to their childhood,” she says. Jennifer’s Spritzgebäck cookies come in a wide variety of flavours, from maple to chocolate to jam-filled. Jen says she’s always experimenting and spent over a year figuring out how to make the cookies taste the same gluten-free. Her favourites are the original buttery vanilla flavour and Belgian-chocolate dipped. She says, “The community has been unbelievable with their support, and I am so grateful and appreciative.”

HOT TIP Jen’s cookies can be stored in the freezer for a late-night snack!

Cookies by Jen | Bearspaw Sunday Farmers Market, The Crossfield Farmers’ Market, and Tangled Tree Markets | 403.605.1513 | cookiesbyjenn.com | Instagram: @cookiesbyjen4u

YYSEAFOOD

YYSeafood is Calgary’s newest fresh, quality seafood destination — and it’s the culmination of a dream 10 years in the making. Husbandand-wife duo Grant William and Leanna Edward met working in the seafood industry and have always loved farmers’ markets. Naturally, they jumped at the opportunity to launch their own seafood stall at Calgary Farmers’ Market West in 2022.

At YYSeafood, an array of fresh and frozen high-quality seafood fills the display cases; you can find anything from octopus poke to fresh oysters to wild halibut filets. The couple says sustainability and quality are important to them, and their popular tuna poke is made with wild, sashimi-grade tuna and flavoured with gluten-free soy sauce and sesame. The flavours are perfectly balanced, and the freshness of the fish is clear. The stall goes far beyond its five different types of poke, you’ll also find an addictive, tangy shrimp ceviche with cilantro and crunchy peppers. Leanna says they are experimenting with some new types of ceviche, too.

YYSeafood’s bestsellers are their salmon burgers and halibut burgers. The halibut patties are delicious and tender, with a bit of a kick, and the recipe includes a mix of products from other market vendors: gluten-free breadcrumbs from Delissitude, ketchup from Culture Shocked, and spice blends from The Silk Road Spice Merchant . “We believe cross promoting with other market vendors and using quality ingredients is what really makes them stand out,” says Leanna. We’ll be eating these burgers all summer long!

YYSeafood | Calgary Farmers’ Market West 25 Greenbriar Dr. N.W. yyseafoodmarket@gmail.com

Shop online at FreshAndLocalFarmOutlet.com LOCAL •LOCAL•PRODUCE D441, 12445 Lake Fraser Drive SE Calgary, AB 1 block north of the Canyon Meadows LRT Located next to the Collective Beer Store Mon – Wed 11a-6p; Thu –Sat 10a-6p; Sundays 11a-5p This Summer Taste the Difference IN CALGARY BEST FOOD STORE VOTED MARKET REPORT SPONSORED BY:
Market Report
Story and photos by GRACE WANG
SUMMER 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 21

A DAY AT THE BEACH

One, or dare we say more (need a clever wedding gift?), of these stunning beach towels from Le Jacquard Français, the same fine French manufacturer of our favourite tea towels, is at the top of the list of this year’s outdoor dining accoutrement. These are towels, of course, and do an outstanding job by the water, but they really shine doing double duty as blankets or tablecloths for any picnic or al fresco occasion. They’re pricey, we admit, but you get what you pay for. And in this case, you get the best quality 100 per cent cotton (completely washable, of course), epic size at 39 x 79 inches, five absolutely gorgeous designs in brilliant tropical colours, and the knowledge that with care the high-quality fabric will retain its colour and proportions, looking beautiful for years to come.

Le Jacquard Français Beach Towels Inspirati Fine Linens | $186 | inspirati.ca

Shop Local!

Posh Picnics

Summer has arrived and it's time to dine al fresco as much as possible before the snow flies again. Here are a few great products to get you started.

TASTY TREKKER

We’ve always been enamoured with the classic wicker ‘pic-a-nic’ basket (à la Yogi Bear and Boo Boo), but when your al fresco rendezvous requires a bit of a trek, this smart-looking, fully equipped backpack is exactly the right thing. The set includes a lightweight, fully insulated backpack with a detachable insulated bottle bag, and a plaid picnic blanket. Inside are a cutting board, cheese knife, bottle opener, salt and pepper shakers, and a four-place setting of plastic wine glasses, melamine plates, stainless-steel cutlery and cloth napkins. You’ll find everything you need to comfortably eat and drink in style, anywhere from the park across the street to a far-flung mountain locale. Typical of Lee Valley, this is well-made and well-priced. Available in-store and online.

Deluxe Picnic Basket | Lee Valley Tools | $89.50 | leevalley.com

YES WE CAN

Humble as it may be, wine in a can is a boon to the dedicated picnicker. The al fresco diner, outdoor festival aficionado and Shakespeare-in-the-park buff all benefit from this light-hearted trend as well. No heavy bottles to carry, no glass to break... and wine in a can is quirky and fun, which is what summer sips and outdoor eating are all about. With some genuinely worthy quaffs out there these days, no need to settle for overly sweet alcoholic soda in a can.

Weingut Leitz in Germany produces two very cool, canned, non-alcoholic sparkling wines (Riesling and rosé), both called Eins Zwei Zero. They are de-alcoholised, meaning they gently remove the alcohol from their award-winning wines through a low temperature distillation system, ensuring the wine still tastes like, well, wine.

For those of us who like a little alcohol when we tipple, Frico by Scarpetta (Lambrusco) offers a charming Italian sparkling wine in an even more charming can. Slightly sweet and a bit tart, this is a perfect picnic potable.

Wine in a Can | Metrovino Fine Wines | Frico: $25.00 for 4 cans | Leitz: $6.00 each wine@metrovino.com

provided 22 SUMMER 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca
Photo
SUMMER 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 23

Story and photos by CAMIE LEARD

For The Hop-Heads

THE FRASER VALLEY A Gastro-geek’s Slice of Heaven

it comes to culinary tourism, Vancouver seems to get all the love in BC’s lower mainland. With some newly minted Michelin stars, it’s certainly a destination for glitz, glamour and some really great food. But for those who like to really dig in and forage for the hidden gems and discover the stories behind the food, the Fraser Valley is the place for you. There’s a lot to choose from, so we’ve put together some “must-dos” to supplement your own journey of discovery.

Where to Stay

We LOVED our stay at the quaint, Hollywood romance-themed Brookside Inn Boutique Hotel in Chilliwack. We stayed in the gorgeous Roman Holiday room and enjoyed a peaceful stroll along the neighbouring Pepin Brook Vineyard Estates after a delicious continental breakfast and a chat with friendly owners Chris and Sandi Buis. Brookside Inn Boutique Hotel | brooksideinn.ca

CIRCLE FARM TOUR

Like any great food destination, the Fraser Valley has covered all the bases by creating a selfguided circle farm tour that offers a ready-made itinerary of between 10 and 20 venues depending on the day, date and time. From honey to dairy, vineyards to berries, venues span Chilliwack, Langley and Abbostford areas as well as HarrisonAgazziz to the northeast. A great website has all of the details including suggested itineraries based on who you’re travelling with, what time of year you’re going and what your interests are.

Fraser Valley Circle Farm Tour | thefraservalley.ca

The Local Harvest

SUSTAINABLE FARMING AND CABBAGES BIGGER THAN YOUR HEAD

Celebrating 10 years in 2023, the Oostenbrink’s 30-acre family farm is a fascinating intersection of a family business and modern farming practise. This no-till, carbon-sequestering, soil-regenerative farm fosters biodiversity, and uses only 100 per cent natural growing. Book a farm tour to experience firsthand the passion and expertise behind the farm and don’t miss the in-house organic bakery, which serves wood-fired pizza on Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.

The Local Harvest | Chilliwack | thelocalharvest.ca

Calgary, of course, is known for the best microbreweries in Canada, but the Fraser Valley’s no slouch either. The Fraser Valley Ale Trail highlights 12 local breweries making for a great alternative to the wine-tour for those who prefer brews to Bacchus. We stopped at Old Yale Brewing and enjoyed a flight of smallbatch brews. Try the 2014 Canada Brewing Awards beer of the year Sasquatch Stout or one of their popular tea radlers. Locations in Chilliwack and Abbotsford. Field House Brewing is a great stop for dinner, particularly on a Thursday evening. Field Sessions live local music, enjoyed on lawn chairs in what feels like your friend’s backyard, comes complete with pet pooches. The thin-crust pizza is great and order a flight so you can pick and choose from a huge selection of beer, barrel-aged cocktails, ciders and more. Locations in Chilliwack and Abbotsford. Fraser Valley Ale Trail | bcaletrail.ca

And the Oenophiles

With its first winery opening in 1994, the Fraser Valley wine region is still in its infancy, relatively speaking. Having said that, the offering is plentiful with 37 licensed grape wineries in the region. We sat down for a picnic at a gorgeous former ranch, Whispering Horse Winery. A family business since the ’60s, Whispering Horse was Chilliwack’s first winery. The most successful variety has been l’Acadie blanc from Nova Scotia, which thrives in the local terroir. They’re also experimenting with their WILD line, which uses a natural winemaking approach with spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeast, no additives, no fining, no filtration, and minimal use of sulfites. These wines are offered in limited quantities and are intended for the adventurous tasters.

Whispering Horse Winery | whisperinghorsewinery.com

Operated by the Joseph Richard Group out of Surrey, the Glass House Estate Winery is a family-owned affair that pays homage to its start as a greenhouse operation. This gorgeous dining room is almost an almost-entirely-glass house with sweeping views of the countryside. Grab a charcuterie kit for a picnic on the hill outside the dining room, take a seat at the bar for a wine tasting, or really treat yourself to the luxury couples helicopter estate tour for something truly memorable. Glass House Estate Winery | glasshouseestatewinery.com

*This trip was hosted, but the story was not provided for approval.
When
Heritage presenter Nette Plant explains the Ft. Langley food scene circa 1827. A delightful spread at Whispering Horse Winery Winemaker Liam Berti of Backyard Vineyards in Langley, B.C. Dan Oostenbrink shows off an enormous, sustsainably-grown cabbage at his Chilliwack farm. Rebekah Crowley, Owner/ Distiller at Roots 'n' Wings Distillery in Langley
24
2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca
A flight at Old Yale Brewing
SUMMER

Don’t Forget to Eat!

Under the leadership of chefs Matthew Nichols and Jeff Massey, Restaurant 62 is the original farm-to-table restaurant in the Fraser Valley. At Restaurant 62, the menu changes with the seasons with daily updates for market-fresh ingredients highlighting products sourced from local farms. This is a really beautiful menu with wonderful pairings available from a thoughtful wine list. Don’t miss a meal here.

Restaurant 62 | Chilliwack | restaurant62.ca

We loved our lunch visit to the gorgeous Saba Bistro with a fantastic menu featuring Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flavours. The seafood here is spectacular as is the pasta. A secret (whoops!) courtyard transports you from the charming town of Fort Langley to an Italian piazza. This is a great place to spend a few hours eating and sampling a delightful cocktail menu.

Saba | Langley | sabacafeandbistro.ca

We could have hung out at Tangleback Gardens all day. The on-site Brambles Bistro specializes in fresh, made-from-scratch, comfort food with much of the produce, fruit, and even the honey, coming from the gardens and hives at Tangleback. A beautiful drive on country roads lands you at this oasis where the food is as beautiful as the flowers. Warning: Calgary gardeners may experience a pang of jealousy while strolling the gardens.

Brambles Bistro at Tangleback Gardens | Abbotsford tangleback.com

OTHER

> Pick some berries and try some cider at Taves Estate Cidery in Abbotsford

> Take a cooking class at Well Seasoned in Langley

> Pet a goat and eat some cheese at Millner Valley Cheese

> Learn a thing or two at Fort Langley National Historic Site

> Get into the spirit of things with a tasting at Fraser Valley’s first craft distillery, Roots & Wings

> Enjoy some awardwinning wines at Backyard Vineyards

> Snack ‘n’ Stroll in historic Downtown Abbotsford: Don’t miss Oldhand Coffee, Duft and Co. Bakehouse, The Polly Fox and Yes Chef.

FROSTY BEVYS

EDMONTON | CALGARY | SHERWOOD PARK Shop…Unwrap…Indulge…Repeat. Your one-stop shop for epic outdoor eats. Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café. CAFE 5255 Richmond Rd SW PRIMAL SOUP KIOSK Fresh & Local Market & Kitchens In Avenida Plaza delicious and healthy FARE made from highest quality local ingredients. QUENCH YOUR DESIRE FOR CRAFTED SODAS & TEAS, warm baked goods and THE freshest meals. ALL In OUR comfortable and inviting space – OR YOURS. PRIMALGROUNDSCAFE.COM
HEAVENLY FUN
SUMMER 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 25

AT LONG LAST

Calgary icon Smugglers Inn has finally reopened after a long hiatus following COVID-19 closures, a change in ownership, a fire and other construction calamities. While renovations updated the space, it retains its vintage feel and offers a ton more seating having converted the Frank space into a lounge and expanding the patio. We’re tickled this local legend (having been in operation since 1967) is back in the saddle.

Smuggler’s Inn | 6920 Macleod Tr. S. 403.253.5355 | smugglers.ca

TRANSFORMATION

Terroir Symposium returns to Calgary Sept. 30 - Oct. 2, and the theme is transformation. Conference sessions and workshops will center around the current state of the industry with the event being hosted at SAIT and at Arts Commons. Tickets are available.

Terroir Hospitality Symposium | terroirsymposium.com

WESTWARD HO!

Award-winning Bridgette Bar has opened its second location in the Spring Creek community of Canmore. This chef-driven bar, with mid-century vibes and a focus on woodfired cuisine, is now accepting reservations.

Bridgette Bar | 1030 Spring Creek Dr., Canmore 403.961.0271 | bridgettebarcanmore.com

DOUBLE TROUBLE

Chef’s Earth has opened a second bricksand-mortar location in Calgary’s Mark on 10th building. We enjoy the build-yourown meal and fresh take-and-go options served with a hot cup of Marley coffee.

Chef’s Earth | 1019 8th St. S.W. | chefsearth.ca

AÇ AI YOU AT OAKBERRY

Health-conscious eaters rejoice with the June opening of three Oakberry locations in Calgary. Customers can build their own bowls and smoothies using fresh, healthy ingredients to keep organs organ-ing and muscles muscle-ing. Oh, and they’re pretty tasty too! Oakberry | Brookfield Place, 17th Ave. S.W. and The District at Beltline | oakberrycanada.ca

CLOWNING AROUND

While at press time it hadn’t yet opened, a delightfully retro hamburger joint is scheduled for a June opening in Mission. Founded by Xian Fullen and Noel Sweet , Class Clown Hamburgers promises “nice drinks and tasty food” and by the looks of the Instagram, wood paneling and a lot of amber glass are on the visual menu. We can’t wait to down some clown burgers this summer!

Class Clown Hamburgers | 106, 1711 4th St. S.W. classclown.ca

LOVE GROWS HERE

A new rooftop garden is growing at Southcentre Mall this summer. Managed by urban agriculture experts at MicroHabitat , the garden will grow 1,000 lbs of fruits, vegetables and herbs, which will be donated to local charity, Made by Momma Southcentre Mall southcentremall.com/the-rooftop-garden

ALCHEMY

The perfect beverage has arrived for vinegar drinkers.

Alchemist

Fractal Daily Vinegar Gingerale is currently available in a sixor 24-pack. Made using Alberta honey, it’s not as strong as apple cider vinegar, and it’s full of health benefits. Watch for new flavours coming soon.

Alchemist Fractal Daily Drinking Vinegar | tippadistillery.square.site

Photo provided Photo provided
26 SUMMER 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca
Photo provided

HOT STUFF

After an alley fire in February, FinePrint staff worked hard to reopen the restaurant, which they finally did in June. The team made a few changes while closed and now have a new patio, creative happy hour specials and they offer Sunday brunch. Be sure to check out the champagne vending machine.

FinePrint | 113 8th Ave. S.W. | 403.475.5655 fineprintyyc.com

A TRIUMPHANT RETURN

The Banff Whisky

Experience is back Dec. 1 - 2 this year and malt-heads everywhere are rejoicing. With master classes and a grand tasting event, more than 70 distillers will bring their best, and anyone who loves whisky won’t want to miss this experience. Full festival passes, VIP passes, and hotel packages are available on the website. Don’t wait to register, this is a popular event!

Banff Whisky Experience banffwhiskyexperience.com

EAT LOCAL

Alberta on the Plate showcases the incredible bounty grown and produced across Alberta. Local food events celebrating farmers, producers, and processors will happen around the province, August 11-20. Follow website for updates.

Alberta on the Plate albertaontheplate.com

IT’S CANOE SEASON

We recently had the chance to check out the summer menu at Shoe & Canoe in the Delta Bow Valley. Inspired by the adventurous spirit of western Canadian explorer David Thompson, the menu celebrates the recipes and ingredients of this place, plus a few international flavours to keep things interesting. We enjoyed the new roasted vegetables with whipped locally sourced feta, which featured a delicious, warm dukka spice. There’s something for every taste on the menu with breakfast, lunch and dinner options complemented by a robust beer, wine and cocktail menu for an after-work beverage with friends in this bright and airy space.

Shoe & Canoe Public House | 209 4th Ave. S.E. 403.205.5416 | shoeandcanoe.ca

EVERY SUNDAY UNTIL OCTOBER 1 st | 10 am - 2 pm The biggest and best farmers market in the northwest with over 100 produce, food and craft vendors Bearspaw Lions Hall | 25240 Nagway Road just off Crowchild Trail/1A highway | 1 km west of Calgary city limits BEARSPAWLIONS.COM Close, quaint, crafts, historic, ice cream, snacks and farm fresh produce. Nestled in the foothills only 35 minutes from Calgary. 403 931 3626 | millarvillegeneralstore.com HAVE A MI L L A RV ILLE DAY! NEWS, notes & happenings | QUICK BITES
Photo provided Photo provided
SUMMER 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 27
Camie Leard

UP IN SMOKE

Brewery & the Beast is back this summer with a new location and a stellar lineup of chefs, restaurants, craft beverages and sustainable meat producers. A smokin’ celebration returns August 27, 2 - 4 p.m. Advance ticket purchase required.

Brewery & the Beast at Fort Calgary 750 9th Ave. S.E. breweryandthebeast.com

YAHOO!

Eau Claire Distillery ’s Stampede Rye Whisky bucked to gold at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition in the rye whisky category. The distillery also won silver for its single-malt batch 006 in the single-grain-whisky category. Eau Claire Distillery | 113 Sunset Blvd. S.W., Diamond Valley | 403.933.5408 eauclairedistillery.ca

SUMMER AT THE RANCH

Lamb sirloin, pan-seared halibut, burrata cheese and an ice cream layer cake are features of the restaurant at Bow Valley Ranche’s summer menu now available at this one-of-a-kind venue in Fish Creek Park.

Bow Valley Ranche Restaurant 15979 Bow Bottom Tr. S.E. 403.476.1310 | bvrrestaurant.com

SPECIALTY RETAIL GROCERY STORE FEATURING KETOGENIC, GLUTEN-FREE AND LOCAL PROVISIONS. BRANT LAKE WAGYU BEEF GRAB AND GO BAKED GOODS FOLLOW US ON FACEBOOK AND INSTAGRAM ALBERTA RAISED WAGYU BEEF • SUSTAINABLE • GRAIN FED FREE OF ADDED HORMONES • HALAL CERTIFIED Supporting local is easy with two locations that offer value and high-quality beef and goods 103-3 AVE SW | EMERSON LANE MALL HIGH RIVER AB | 403 652.1014 Available at our BLW Butcher Shop & Distribution across Canada 507 - 42 AVE SE | CALGARY AB 587 352.3311 | BRANTLAKEWAGYU.CA Both locations open Tuesday to Saturday
Photo provided Photo provided Photo provided 28 SUMMER 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca

FROM LAST ISSUE Salsa Quiz Answers

Here are the answers to last issue’s “Crash Course” quiz on Salsa. How did you do?

1. What is the active ingredient in chili peppers? Capsaicin

2. What fruit is most commonly used to make salsa verde? Tomatillo

3. If you can’t find serrano peppers, what makes a good (and easy to find) substitute? Jalapeño

4. What could you use to make a fine textured salsa if you didn’t have a blender or food processor? Molcajete and tejolate. We also accepted mortar and pestle.

5. How is heat in chili peppers measured? The Scoville scale Check out this issue's quiz on Page 17.

33 YEARS STRONG

We work with people of all shapes and sizes but we love working with clients who want to fight ageing every step of the way,” says One on One owner Sandra Bueckert (pictured below). “Age is the great equalizer and at 56, I’m a part of the resistance.”

“I chose One on One many years ago as I wanted to gain muscle and become stronger,” says Elizabeth Walsh, a 20-year client. “I knew the best way for me was to be with experts and to have appointments I would not miss.”

There are no fads or gimmicks at One on One. It’s the home of sweat equity.

time

Workouts for clients looking to reach their goals online or in-person are by appointment only.

“Every client has di erent goals and di erent issues to consider. We get it. We understand. We’re aware that getting started can feel overwhelming.

Our aim is to simplify the process for you,” says Sandra. “Together, we’ll sit down and discuss your fitness goals, nutrition, health history, work schedule and so much more. This will allow us to custom design a solid fitness plan for you.”

our clients live healthier lives – one workout at a
www.oneononefitness.ca 1516 17 Ave. SW, Calgary, AB • 403.244.9059 • oneononefitness@shaw.ca Personal Fitness Instruction Inc. Personal Training Nutritional Consulting PERSONAL TRAINING BY APPOINTMENT Call Sandra today for your complimentary consultation.
Helping
SUMMER 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 29
Congratulations to Savour Calgary reader Jackie Skrypnek , who won the $100 Epicureans Gift Box.
30 SUMMER 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca

I feel sorry for catfish, such an overlooked, underrated food. It isn‘t even displayed at the supermarket under its real name. Instead, it’s labelled as basa, which is a form of catfish, and sometimes called the Vietnamese river cobbler, mud cat, chucklehead or other unpoetic names.

Poor basa, scorned and ridiculed, is known for being economical (aka cheap) and readily available, but also has a bad rep for being sandy, bland, tasteless and an insult to a gourmet’s palate. I’ve heard even the most elegant of souls go on sustained and profane rants about the horrors of basa. It is further demeaned by the use of “catfishing” as a term for dating scams. How much abuse can a poor fish take?

Okay, okay, okay. I get it. A lot of this disdain is warranted. Sometimes, if cooked properly, catfish loses its sandy texture and can be wonderfully tender. But alas, somehow it has become unjustly viewed as a poor person’s fish. Yes, it is economical, and yes, occasionally, as with any fish, you get a package that makes you swear off anything with fins, gills, big glassy eyes, and a tail, forever. But basa is still a handy thing to have on hand. Sort of like a loyal friend who doesn’t dress in designer clothes, but who is sincere and authentic. Trout and lobster swan around, secure in their reputation, while poor little catfish waits to be asked to dance. I have a very simple recipe, so simple that foodie friends ask for it, thinking it a great secret. (Whenever anybody sinks to asking ME, an erratic and often nutty cook, for a recipe, it’s an event.) Olive oil, kosher salt, paprika and a bit of curry powder. Put it in the oven under foil, or in a skillet with the usual sizzle-cover-wait technique. There is much to be said for the simplicity of basa. It sits in the freezer like an old pal –no pretensions, no drama – simply somebody waiting to be asked to the party. And if treated with kindness, it is easy on the palate. Sure, trout, lobster and mussels may take centre stage with their glamour, but good old catfish is comfortable company, too shy to claim the spotlight. World cultures know this, as catfish, whoops, basa, is popular in many countries: fried in cornmeal (U.S.); fried or grilled and sold at street stalls with vegetables (Indonesia); cooked in paprika sauce and served with cottage cheese pasta (Hungary); catfish in noodle fish soup with lemongrass, ginger, and garlic (Myanmar); fried with vinegar and fish sauce (Philippines); the star of catfish pepper stew (Nigeria). But in Jewish cuisine, it is not considered kosher due to its lack of scales. Poor basa. Shunned again. Ouch.

Poor Little Catfish

No Matter. Catfish is cool. Basa is beautiful. There, I said it.

FUN FOOD TALES from the front line | FUNNYBONES
SUMMER 2023 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 31
Linda Kupecek is an author, screenwriter and kooky cook, whose main claim to fame in the latter department is cooking catfish in a way that doesn’t send anybody to the ER.

IN AVENIDA VILLAGE

Our Fresh & Local Farm Store is open daily all year long. We have a full selection of Alberta grown vegetables and BC fruit. Stock up for your weekend adventures with freeze dried treats, wagu bars, hamburgers, sausages, and grass-fed steaks.

Visit our full service Farmers’ Market which features 3 bakeries of fine pastries, gluten free breads, macarons and cinnamon buns. Shop the 40 market vendors for Alberta vegetables, BC fruit, fresh bread, bulk baking supplies, organic meats, flowers, herbal remedies, coffee & desserts, with 22 culinary kitchens.

The Farmers Market is open Thursday through Sunday. Enjoy our two licensed outdoor patios, award winning meals and take-out from 22 culinary kitchens. Come in to enjoy our air conditioned eating areas and enjoy the live music Friday and Saturday from 6-8p.

OPEN DAILY Mon – Wed 11a-6p; Thu – Sat 10a-6p; Sun 11a-5p 403.253.4988

OPEN Thursday – Saturday 11a-8p; Sundays 11a-5p 403.475.4155

WE ARE CALGARY’S AWARD WINNING DESTINATION FOR GREAT FOOD
www.FreshAndLocal.ca || 12445 Lake Fraser Drive SE, Calgary (1 block north of the Canyon Meadows LRT)

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