MAGAZINE
SCARLETTE
Issue XV, Spring/Summer 2019
SCARLETTE We Are The Fashion Magazine at OSU About
Our mission is to showcase campus individuality and beauty, presenting new ideas and exciting photography to the Ohio State University and the world. Students are responsible for the entire process and execution of the magazine. This makes Scarlette a unique organization where students can take their learning outside of the classroom. Our goal is to create an environment on campus where the students feel comfortable expressing their individuality through fashion, art, words, and other outlets. We hope to create an environment on campus where the students feel comfortable expressing their individuality by any means. With each biannual issue we aim to inspire our readers and deliver a new perspective on the fashion world. Recruitment: scarlettemagazineosu@gmail.com | Instagram: @ scarlettemagazine
Team Editor-in-Chief Philip Bradshaw
Advisor Alexandra Suer
Style Director Audrey Villarosa
Treasurer Michelle Feng
Web Designer Christopher Tinsley
Marketing Director Nicki Merritt
Writing Lead Katie Chung
Writing Christopher Tinsley Emma King Emme Furlong Katie Chung Marissa Mariner
Style Audrey Villarosa Christopher Tinsley Michelle Feng Nicki Merritt
Models Alexander Breck Claudia Guerrieri Brenden Snyder Denethi Wijegunawardana James Holley Jersey Dick Lindsay Greenberg Lexus Lunguy Natalie Ballay Rachel Cossick Ryder Teach Qingyang Sui
Design Nataliya Bystrova Hailey Birchfield Jennifer Jarvis Megan Gray
Photography Courtney Petno Emily Zeaman Philip Bradshaw
Makeup Artists Sayra Figlik Sydney Smith
Con S
Vulnerability in
Embracing vulner the modern day
Colors
Playing with colo production
European Living
First-hand accoun Fashion
Going Green
A greenery shoot sustainable clothi
nt 05
n Masculinity
rable masculinity in
11
or for portrait
g
43
nt of European
51
to promote ing
Redefining Self Care
07
Empowering self care practices
Street Style
27
Fashion moments on Columbus streets
49
Cultural Appropriation
Appropriation of cultures in the fashion industry
Vulnerability in Masculinity Authors: Emma King & Katie Chung Illustrations: Michelle Feng
“Today it’s easier to embrace masculinity in so many different things. I definitely find — through music, writing, talking with friends, and being open — that some of the times when I feel most confident is when I’m allowing myself to be vulnerable.” -Harry Styles, iD Mag, 2018
F
ashion makes us feel powerful, confident, sexy, fun. We can express our most vulnerable side through our pointed choice of dress. On his first world tour, we watched Harry Styles voice his values, beliefs, and inner masculinity through what he wore. Pink, sequins, jumpsuits, and sheer fabrics adorned him while he danced his way through the set. It’s easy to see how confident Harry is when you watch him maintain an entertaining rapport with his audience and throw back all the love he receives. Five years ago he performed in the same thing every day. A plain white t-shirt and black skinny jeans, a classic. Frankly, it looked good, like really good, but this uniform lacked a piece of him. Since starting his solo career, he has tapped into a goofier, more vulnerable, secure sense of himself. A sense of himself he has chosen to settle into by way of custom outfits designed by up and coming creatives and high-end luxury brands.
These outfits are often considered more feminine, but Harry said it best when he told Timothée Chalamet in iD magazine—“I think there’s so much masculinity in being vulnerable and allowing yourself to be feminine, and I’m very comfortable with that”. Vulnerability in fashion isn’t easily achieved, but Harry manages to make a lasting impression. There is something special when he enters a room, and maybe it’s just his presence, but his clothing speaks louder than his words. At his show in Detroit this past June, we were lucky enough to see (and not just see, we touched) him styled in a custom Gucci blouse. A light blue, sheer, silky, shimmery number fit for him. When he walked past us, everyone felt the warmth and comfort that radiates when someone is truly confident and comfortable in their own skin. Make no mistake, Harry was vulnerable. You could feel it. The emotion and love in the arena knowing he felt his most confident in an outfit not normally considered masculine was empowering. The truth is, fashion is fluid. Harry’s choices reflect a broader movement towards expressing masculinity through vulnerability in clothing. The face of masculinity has shifted even in just the past few years—when asked if Harry felt a responsibility to represent the new conception of masculinity, he remarked that growing up, he didn’t exist in a “man’s man world.” Growing up in an household with a mother and older sister, he never experienced limitations to masculinity. He was able to experience masculinity in its truest form—being comfortable and confident. Secure in himself, Harry is able to embrace masculinity through his own vulnerability and choices of traditionally feminine clothing. When Harry lets his masculinity speak for itself through the lens of his found comfort in femininity, he ultimately does represent masculinity in confidence.
Redefining Self Care
Author: Emme Furlong Photographer: Philip Bradshaw Design: Sanjana Srivastava
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If you have a phone and live on Earth, there’s a pretty good chance you’ve stumbled upon the phrase “self-care” at some point or another. It’s everywhere. What ever internet scheme the selfcare movement is doing is clearly working, as I am a huge proponent of these “me-time” related activities. For a long time what self-care meant to me was storming into Target at the end of a rough day, swiping the shelves clean of all their sheet masks, and uncomfortably sitting on my bed with it drooping down my cheeks for about 5 minutes until the intensity of that evening’s to-do list overcame my little zen-moment, and I was back to where I started. In reality, all of this emotional spillover was coming from the fact that a lot of other elements in my life were simultaneously crumbling, so until I cleaned those up, this tea-tree oil mask was doing the same justice as putting a band-aid on the Titanic. Over the last couple of months I have taken it upon myself to really look past the surface and soothe the deeper mess that really needed it the most. In this process, I have redefined what self-care means to me and have incorporated new routines that delve far beneath the surface of what I thought I was doing to honor myself. Here are some of my new, redefined, and empowered practices that I’m most excited about:
clean up your space
Not as glamorous as the Byredo candle that adorns my bedside table, is the image of me, crouched down on the floor of my bathroom, me-
ticulously scrubbing behind my toilet while an early 2000’s alt-rock playlist is blasting in the background. Both, however, are things I consider to be selfcare. Before we can partake in the highest level of self-pampering and teakwood-candle-worshipping, it’s important the space in which we do so is a tidy, transparent medium. As the seasons are currently shifting, use this as an opportunity to clear out your closet, bathroom drawers, and even that one scary drawer full of pens and old receipts (yeah, that one). I recently turbo cleaned and organized my closet; eliminating much of the fluster of getting ready in the morning now that I can actually see everything I own. It also served as a really great opportunity to purge anything I am currently not wearing: folding and storing all of my cable-knit winter sweaters for next winter and donating the rest of my older, no-longer-worn clothing to a local homeless shelter, probably the best feeling that came from all of this.
clean up your finances
Financial responsibility is something that I have always struggled with. In fact, merely typing that made me sweat. To give myself a little credit, I am not horrible with money, but I definitely have never been good, considering my bad history with justifying many obscene purchases (I DO need this rose gold face towel holder for my bathroom, okay?). One of my main goals for this year was to really get a hold on spending, and also improve my financial literacy. It’s important to not only know what you’re spending money on, but to be able to pinpoint exactly when money was spent, and where to make little budget adjustments. I recently downloaded the app Clarity that does exactly that. It keeps track of my credit and debit spending, gives me really great charts with pretty colors that I can actually understand, and leaves me with great little tips on where I can cut spending and save. When our wallet is in check, it makes focusing on the other things that much easier, and makes the pampering part of self-care actually feel worth it. *Re-enter
candle and Target sheet mask*.
clean up your social media
Purifying my social media was perhaps one of the hardest pills to swallow when I was looking to really change the way my mind was feeling in my day-to-day. To get this out of the way- I am not here to bash on social media. It is an incredible entity that allows people to be expressive and showcase some awesome things. Unfortunately, when used the wrong way, it can be intoxicating. As strong willed and impenetrable we think we are, the false depictions of people’s lives, people’s bodies, and people’s happiness can be absolutely drowning. I did not want to admit it for the longest time, but I was living in a constant brainwash by the seemingly “happy” and “inspiring” content I was feeding myself on social media. It caused me to form a lot of negative opinions on myself, my body, and the way I lived my life. In my quest to be my most fulfilled person, this was the final step. I went through and unfollowed a lot of accounts that were not adding anything to my life, other than bitterness and self-depreciation. Partaking in social media is a conscious decision, so it seemed pretty whack that I was consciously making myself miserable all the time. Having since freed myself from a lot of these accounts and bringing a lot more uplifting platforms into my life, I also have made a conscious effort to put down the phone all together and focus more on being present with people and activities that bring me joy. I am in no way saying I am immune or “cured” from the negative thoughts social media can bring, but positivity is a lot more free flowing in my brain these days which is a win in my book. If you’re looking to change the way you care for yourself on the outside, take a look at what’s hurting you on the inside too. If there were a mask
or candle or bath had the power to heal what’s going on internally, trust me, I would have bought 10. Remember to honor, respect, and care for yourself today on the inside. Self-care is more than a practice, it’s a journey, and I look forward to continue on mine, thanking myself for existing a little more each day. You can find me on Instagram @emmereed and on my website at www.emmereed.com
colors colors colors colors colors Photographer: Philip Bradshaw Models: Natalie Ballay, Brenden Snyder, &Alexander Breck Creative Directors: Nicki Merritt & Audrey Villarosa
street style Photographer: Courtney Petno Models: Ryder Teach, James Holley, Lexus Lunguy, Katie Chung, Nicki Merritt, & Jersey Dick Creative Director: Nicki Merritt
Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.
— Coco Chanel
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Fashion goes with the feeling of the moment. It's related to movies, to art, to young people's taste. — Gianni Versace
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lived in London (or England in months. Every day, my commu watching and observing the un vidual. Everyone seemed to put fo style and outfit for the day. The be fashion is to reminisce on the day I London fashion—my birthday. I turned 21 in London, and tention in the US, in London, and really matter. Instead of attemptin on the multiple papers I had to wr
London Living
n general) for about eight ute was filled with people nique style of every indiorth some effort in their est way to describe London I experienced the most of
d while that age sparks atd most of Europe, it did not ng to spend my day working rite, I procrastinated and
went on what could only be called a “fashion tour” of London instead. My first stop started off very typical—a forty-five-minute tube ride into central London. This was where my tour began. The tube was really where I saw every different character that existed in London: well-paid business executives, blue collared construction workers, and the piercing high fashion models wearing $800 leather jackets. That same leather jacket made me question every decision I had ever made about my appearance. On that December day, there was a bit of a chill in the air which brought out the nice coats. Pea coats were whipped out, and cashmere scarfs and beanies lined the tube seats. The coats had clean, straight lines and rarely I saw one with a pattern. Everything was simplistic yet elegant. After drooling over the different styles I saw, I got off at my stop and made my way to my first stop,
the true icon of London high fashion—Harrods department store—located by Chelsey and Notting Hill. Harrods is known as one of the most expensive and luxurious department stores in the world and it was clear as to why. When I walked in, I was greeted by several well-suited men, who, while had a pleasant smile, would kill me if I touched anything. I had no intention of buying anything in that store, since doing so would have meant I could not afford to eat for several weeks. Instead, I just walked starry-eyed through the green and gold trim complex. Being a department store, they carried more than just clothing. They sold other luxury products. I started on the
ground floor, where they sold more luxurious brands such as Gucci and Louis Vuitton, and surprisingly, an assortment of high end liquor and champagne. Then, I walked each floor running my hands through very nice clothing made from premium fabrics. There was your normal, cut of the mill pieces, but then I would come across some exuberant jacket with feathers coming off the sides and a silver chain wrapped around the grey turtleneck. After enjoying the seven floors of products I could never afford, I settled down in the so-called ‘food hall’. The ‘food hall’, made every grocery store I had ever been in (including Trader Joe’s) seem like a gas station food mart. They had food
products from all over the world. This is where I sat in gold chairs, while resting on marble countertops, watching the elite of London conduct their daily shopping routines. The thing about Harrods, was that while a basic tourist destination, it provided the elite of London with everything they could want. Groceries, technology, clothing, and home goods all in one store that few could afford to shop in. This was where I witnessed the class separation in London. The upper class locked themselves in these ornate buildings while the middle class and ‘normal’ folk stayed in the East of London, conducting their shopping within a somewhat more reasonable price range. Wanting to actually buy something to
commemorate my birthday, I decided to make my way to the reasonable East side of London. When I got to the East side, I saw a growing aesthetic of what could be described as grunge, rebellious fashion. The East side fashion world had more boutiques and independent shops, and some of the best thrift shops I had ever been in. I walked the narrow streets that were ridden with graffiti and portraits. I made it to my first stop, a small, metal-rusted door, hidden away in an ally. After walking down a couple flights of stairs, I walked through a doorway into a massive basement where hundreds of independent vendors settled their stalls. Crowds upon crowds of people walked the lanes between them. There
products. There, I purchased a bright red and white tie dyed t-shirt with “Devil 18” written on the front in a bright neon green color, designed by Illustrated People. Very flashy, but a piece I will never forget buying on my birthday. I ended the day by sitting on a park bench in SoHo. I sat with my fish and chips and people watched. SoHo was a combination of upper class and edgy street style, and perfectly embodied the true fashion of London. The style of London was all over the place and no one person dressed the same. The people took time to develop their own style and in the end, created a stylistically diverse city.
were independent designers and people with collections of items they gathered over the years. The prices were, well, substantially lower than the West side. I went to different vendors—the vintage metal t-shirt booth, the booth that sold solely jean jackets, the tiny sunnies booth, and the camo booth. I stopped at the camo booth first and purchased a pair of grey and black camo pants. After exiting the maze of a basement, I headed over to Rock ‘it Vintage, a chain of stores that attempted to make thrifting mainstream. Kind of like Urban Outfitters’ attempt to make street style mainstream, except Rock ‘it Vintage does it right. Along with second-hand clothing, they allow independent designers to stage their
Article: Christopher Tinsely Models: Michelle Feng, Rachel Cossick, Denethi Wijegunawardana, Qingyang Sui MUA: Sayra Figlik, Sydney Smith Photographer: Philip Bradshaw Creative Director: Christopher Tinsley
Article: Marissa Mariner Photography: Natahn Dumlao
FOR THE LOV CULTU
VE OF FASHION: URAL APPROPRIATION
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rom as far back as I can remember, fashion has been an integral part of my life. I love how it changes and inspires differences and trends. Through fashion, I learned about different culture and different places around the world. Every time I travel, I try to purchase a piece that I can relate to and that stays with me. I still have a straw purse from when I went to the Bahamas when I was five. Through fashion, I also felt seen. I could express myself as a black woman. While I have always loved fashion, at times it has felt as though my culture was not being appreciated, but rather, appropriated. Cultural appropriation is the poaching of culture, a culture or subculture you do not belong to; be it music, style, language, hair, and other customs. Cultural Appropriation is so engrained in the fashion industry that it is hard to know if we can survive without it. Fashion is always looking for the next big, unique thing and that in turn motivates cherry-picking from different cultures all around the world. This doesn’t have to be a bad thing. There is, after all, a difference between cultural appropriation and appreciation, which is a fine line that the fashion industry has yet to walk. The issue of cultural appropriation goes beyond simply borrowing, especially when these cultural practices are repackaged as their own. As an example, look to the adoption of black hair styles as high fashion. At the Marc Jacobs SS17 fashion show, high-profile models such as Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid sported multicolored dreadlocks
as a fashion statement. In the Marc Jacobs Spring RTW 2015 show, the adoption of bantu knots (rebranded as “mini buns”) was seen. These African hairstyles were modeled on white models. In 2019, New York was forced to pass a law protecting black hairstyles as they are commonly viewed as unprofessional and criminalized. It’s not borrowing when black people are discriminated against for wearing hairstyles they invented and then, these same hairstyles, are being co-opted and rebranded for “fashion” sakes. There are several solutions to cultural appropriation including, hiring practices, education, and access. Cultural appropriation can be routed out by hiring diverse creative directors and designers to bring an authentic design and pay proper homage to cultural practices. It also helps by creating opportunities for models of color in fashion. As an example, Zendaya recently premiered her ‘Zendaya x Tommy Hilfiger’ collection which was very 70’s inspired while also having a hint of blaxploitation influence. She used her platform, as a creative director, by not only hiring a cast of all black models, but also paying homage to early models of color such as Pat Cleveland, Beverly Johnson, and many more. Having appreciation and admiration for another culture or cultural practice is great as long as one pays their respect for it and its people. Cultural appropriation runs deep within the fashion industry and in order for the industry to survive, the appropriation needs to stop.
Going Green Photographer: Emily Zeaman Models: Lindsay Greenberg, Claudia Guerrieri, & Audrey Villarosa Creative Director: Audrey Villarosa
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