Showing Our Roots 2019

Agriculture . . . a celebration of our roots

A special supplement to the SULLIVAN COUNTY DEMOCRAT August 13, 2019

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SULLIVAN COUNTY DEMOCRAT

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The farmer, the food and the Hub that connects it all STORY AND PHOTOS BY ISABEL BRAVERMAN

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t’s a rainy Wednesday morning and Cat Wilson is unloading boxes filled with fresh produce off of a van and bringing them to restaurants in the area. As the Executive Director of the Catskills Food Hub Wilson does pretty much everything—making deliveries, filling orders, answering sales calls and stocking the coolers at the Hub. “Aren’t these fennel gorgeous?” she remarks to Chef Robin Mailey at the Callicoon Wine Merchant. She’s dropping off a delivery of fresh produce, including the fennel from Willow Wisp Organic Farm.

It was Wilson’s passion for food that led her to the position she’s in now.

With an extensive background in farming and the restaurant industry, she brings her knowledge and experience to the Hub, which opened this April in Liberty.

After almost four months of being

Cat Wilson is the Executive Director of the Catskills Food Hub in Liberty, NY. The hub opened in April and serves to connect farmers and food producers with the community.

open, the food hub is doing well as a successful startup and still working out the kinks (for instance, they hope

to hire more people, such as delivery truck drivers).

“Sales have doubled in the past few

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weeks,” Wilson told me when we sat down for an interview in the beginning of August. The hub serves to connect farmers and food producers with wholesale buyers, like restaurants, businesses and schools.

Since the opening of the hub, Wilson said it’s been a tough growing season for farmers, with lots of rain in the spring and lots of heat in the summer. “The effects of climate change are immediate when it comes to produce growers and animal farms as well,” Wilson said.

But it’s still the most bountiful season of the year and the Hub is keeping busy. “There are more products to sell, more people are signing up both on the producer and buyer end, so that’s really exciting,” Wilson said.

The Hub is a non-profit organization and Wilson explains that this allows them to apply for grants and do fundraising. They also plan to hold events and workshops in the future, such as partnering with Cornell

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SULLIVAN COUNTY DEMOCRAT

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Cooperative Extension to offer food safety training for farmers and food producers.

They currently have around 65 food producers who sell to the hub, which means everything from produce to meat, dairy and value-added products like granola or chocolate.

Farmers and food producers drop off their products at the Hub on Tuesday and Wilson sorts it and gets it ready for delivery on Wednesday. All of the products are listed on the website, which goes live at 10 a.m. on Friday.

“We cater to any restaurant; we have a variety of products at different price points to accommodate anyone’s menu. We’re trying to be as far reaching as possible in our offerings,” Wilson said.

While the Hub currently only serves wholesale buyers, it may soon be open to individuals. They are launching a pilot program to test out retail sales and if it goes well it will be implemented. Individuals can buy items from the website and pick it up at the Hub. “It’s another way for the commu-

nity to interact with the hub,” Wilson said.

Wilson’s family had a house in Callicoon where she would spend her summers and then moved to the area full-time. She worked in the food service industry since she was 15 years old, working her way up from a dishwasher to sous chef to manager. She also worked on farms in the area for six years.

“When I worked for a farmer he said you have to be a little bit insane to be a farmer and I think you have to be a little crazy to run a food hub too, because it’s a huge effort,” Wilson said. “I give a lot of credit to my board, who is very active and knowledgeable.”

The board includes local people who work or are interested in agriculture and the Chairperson is Denise Frangipane, Executive Director of Sullivan Renaissance, and Vice Chairperson is Mark McLewin.

“There is tremendous excitement and enthusiasm in Sullivan County and the region for a project like this,” Frangipane said. “We want to know where our food

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comes from and especially who our food comes from.”

Project partners include Cornell Cooperative Extension Sullivan County, the County of Sullivan Industrial Development Agency, Hudson Valley Agribusiness Development Corporation, Sullivan Renaissance, producers, and small business owners.

After our interview concludes Wilson checks her computer and delightedly says, “We got our first sale!” It’s a Friday morning; the cycle will begin again of receiving orders, packing boxes and making deliveries.

Just like the farmer in the field, the work never stops. Maybe if we all knew where our food came from, we would appreciate it just a little bit more.

Catskills Food Hub Executive Director Cat Wilson does just about everything from unloading trucks to making deliveries.

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Cideries find new success by rediscovering their roots

BY MATT SHORTALL

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f you go apple picking this fall, it’s interesting to think that our official state fruit is not even native to New York. Crab apples were the only variety of apples to appear in North America before European colonists brought seeds with them from across the ocean. Long before then, scientists believe the first apples grew thousands of years ago in the Central Asian mountains of Kazakhstan.

Like the colonists themselves, it wasn’t long before the apple trees put down roots in North America. In the early days of the United States, cider was the beverage of choice in some regions.

Today it is beginning to see a resurgence in popularity.

“I see cider returning to its rightful place as the nightly dinner drink in apple regions,” said Andy Brennan of Aaron Burr Cidery in Wurtsboro. “Every town will again have it's own cider mill and every property will produce apples to be brought there

for juicing.”

Brennan is among a group of local cider makers who see themselves as continuing a proud American agricultural tradition.

When Andy Brennan and Polly Giragosian first started making cider on their small, five-acre homestead farm in 2008, all they wanted to do was share with others the same thing they were drinking at home. “I want to be a part of the homestead tradition and historically American cider-making was a part of this lifestyle. Defending this old standard of simple but excellent homestead cider from insatiable growth, commercial exploitation, compromises and corner-cutting has become an appendage to my original business plan,” Andy said.

CONTRIBUTED PHOTO

Polly and Andy of Aaron Burr Cidery take great pride in producing quality cider at their homestead farm dating back to the early 1800s. All cider is made from locally grown and foraged apples

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“Uncultivated: Wild Apples, Real Cider and the Complicated Art of Making a Living,” which explores the benefits of becoming better informed and more locally conscience when it comes to our food.

And there’s something special about the Sullivan Catskills when it comes to growing good apples for cider. “Sullivan County was not plugged into the trends of the rest of agriculture, particularly neighboring Hudson Valley where apples grow in large mono-cultural settings,” said Andy. “The apples here are so immensely different that it inspired me to write about them over the past decade. Truly, these apples are superior because they are not farmed in the same way, but also because apples prefer our terrain.”

In fact, apples might do so well here CONTINUED FON PAGE 6R CONTRIBUTED PHOTO

Apples from Aaron Burr Cidery “sweating” before they’re pressed to make cider.

Sweating allows the apples to soften up for crushing and pressing, giving better juice yields. It also gives the apples a chance to further ripen and produce additional sugars.

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because the climate in the Catskills resembles that of Kazakhstan where apples first grew. “In most other places in the U.S., apples can’t really thrive without pruning, watering, pest control and other human intervention,� said Martin Bernstein of Abandoned Hard Cider. It’s this unique climate in the Catskills that attracts foragers and cider makers to what Bernstein calls “the Napa Valley of cider apples.�

Bernstein and his business partner, Eric Childs, harvest from the abandoned and forgotten apple orchards throughout Sullivan County and in other parts of the Hudson Valley.

They also crowdsource apples from trees right in people’s backyards.

Bernstein mentioned a new initiative to crowdsource apples.

Pickyourapples.com encourages people to bring their own apples to Bernstein at the Bethel Woods

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Seminary Hill Orchard overlooking Callicoon provides plenty of sun and fresh air for apples to grow. They don’t mind the view either.

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Seminary Hill Orchard team includes Chief Cider Maker Chris Negronida (left), Founder Douglas Doetsch and Operations Manager Bill Hess

and perry (pear cider) from their 1,400 apple and pear trees.

Seminary Hill Orchard broke ground on a new tasting room earlier this summer. In addition to running their orchards they also host a wedding venue overlooking the scenic Delaware River.

“We hope we can become an important part of a new kind of tourism in the western part of the county,” Doetsch said. “We’re trying to do something that is consistent with the agricultural heritage of Sullivan County.”

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Harvest Festival, which takes place every Sunday in September, and receive hard cider in return. “You can get a lot of cider from not too many apples,” Bernstein said. “There are so many backyard orchards that have these incredible, cider specific varieties, especially in Sullivan County.”

Entrepreneurs and cider enthusiasts who recognize this trend are trying to promote it in different ways. Douglas Doetsch is a lawyer based out of Chicago but his family has deep roots in Callicoon. Doetsch and his team make hard apple cider

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2019 Farmers Market schedule Barryville Farmers Market Saturdays 10am to 1pm May 18 to October 26 3405 Scenic Rte 97, Barryville, NY (United Methodist Church) 845-557-0913 www.barryvillefarmersmarket.org Callicoon Farmers Market OUTDOOR MARKET: Sundays 11am to 2pm May 5 to November 10 Callicoon Creek Park A. Dorrer Dr, Callicoon, NY FMNP SFMNP SNAP INDOOR MARKET: Select Sundays 11am to 2pm November 17 to April 26 Delaware Youth Center 8 Creamery Rd, Callicoon, NY FMNP SFMNP SNAP

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Narrowsburg Farmers Market Saturdays 10am to 1pm 7 Erie Ave, Narrowsburg, NY (Behind the Narrowsburg Union) May 18 to October 26 570-982-0050 www.NarrowsburgFarmersMarket.org FMNP SFMNP

Liberty Farmers Market A Catskill Mountainkeeper Market Fridays 3pm to 6pm June 14 to September 13 Creekside Park 119 North Main St, Liberty, NY 845-439-1230 www.CatskillMountainKeeper.org FMNP SFMNP SNAP

Rock Hill Farmers Market Saturdays 10am to 1pm June 1 to September 28 223 Rock Hill Dr, Rock Hill, NY

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Roscoe Farmers Market Sundays 10am to 2pm May 12 to October 13 Niforatos Field 1978 Old Rte 17, Roscoe, NY www.roscoeny.com FMNP SFMNP Harvest Festival at Bethel Woods Sundays in the fall 11am to 4pm September 1, 8, 15, 22, 29 Bethel Woods Center for the Arts 200 Hurd Rd, Bethel, NY www.bethelwoodscenter.org FMNP SFMNP

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Farm Fest returns to Hilly Acres

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ave the date on Saturday, September 21 for the annual Farm Fest at Hilly Acres Farm.

Located at 32 Wahl Rd. in Jeffersonville from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., Farm Fest celebrates the agricultural heritage that Sullivan County is so proud of.

Come learn about the joys and challenges or farming and see how a modern farm operates.

The day features fun events for the whole family, including an antique

tractor show, pumpkin decorating and a hay bale toss.

You can also enjoy hay rides and live music while browsing local craft and food vendors. This year also includes a 4H Rabbit Exhibition along with the ever-popular “meet the animals” exhibit, where visitors can get to know the many different animals that make farm life possible.

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Brey’s Egg Farm carries on tradition

instead of corporations because they “don’t even know who you are and you’re just a number to them.”

The chickens and cows at their farm receive all natural, cornbased feed that also has minerals and soy to help nurture the 350,000 chickens that produce an average of 270,000 eggs per day. The eggs are transported from the coops to the packaging Vanessa Olsen loading packaged eggs into boxes to be distributed. facility where they are cleaned, dried, and inspected through two separate lighting “I think every farmer in the world is struggling with machines to detect any defects. In addition to pro- the markets,” Vanessa stated. Brey’s Egg Farm recentducing eggs, the farm also offers untreated hay that is ly got biodegradable egg cartons to attract more busifree from any pesticides or sprays. ness considering the eco-friendly movement is rapFarming has been a rewarding career for the Breys, idly growing. “[Farms] are just hurting, even the dairy however, there are still issues that current farmers try and eggs… it’s just tough,” she added.

“I love taking care of animals,” Vanessa stated, as to overcome. Between trying to sell products in a market that is heavily controlled by corporations and she explained how passionate the family is because the need for workers who are willing to put effort in, of their dedication to making their business thrive. farms owned by families like the Breys need to find “There is a lot of passion we put in here because it is family run,” she added. ways around the obstacles.

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STORY AND PHOTOS BY SARAH CLARK

estled in the hills of Jeffersonville sits Brey’s Egg Farm, a family run business dedicated to bringing farm fresh eggs to Sullivan County communities. In addition to delivering to local grocery stores and farmers’ markets, they also ship their eggs to various locations throughout New York and Connecticut.

Brey’s Egg Farm was founded in 1932 by Harold Brey and his two sons William and Roger. Later, William and his son Daniel took over the farm, and now it has been operational for four generations.

Daniel is a third generation farmer who runs the farm with his wife Nancy and daughter Vanessa Olsen, whose husband David also works on the farm.

“It makes you appreciate where your food came from,” Vanessa stated. Since the age of four, she has been passionate about farming and the hard work that it entails. “A lot of people don’t know how that food gets to their plate,” added Vanessa.

Vanessa also addresses how if people do not support local businesses, they will slowly become nonexistent. According to Daniel, Brey’s Egg Farm is the last large egg farm in Sullivan County. Vanessa stresses how important it is to buy from local businesses

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(Left to right) William Brey, Daniel Brey, and Vanessa Olsen as they proudly stand by the Brey’s Egg Farm sign in Jeffersonville.

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