THE PITON #1 - ROAD TO TOKYO / Black Diamond Equipment by eva kuprella

N°1 | 2018

THE PITON ROAD TO TOKYO

THE PITON – ROAD TO TOKYO

N°1 | 2018

piton (piːtɒn) “a metal spike that is driven with a hammer into a crack or seam in the rock surface. Designed to protect the climber against a fall or to assist progress in aid climbing, the piton represents the original form of protection for big wall climbing in Yosemite Valley where much of climbing history was written, and the free climbing culture was born.”

Black Diamond has been part of the climbing movement since its beginnings in Yosemite Valley, when the use of pitons was common practice. For us, it is important to talk about where we come from and where it all began. Events like the Climbing World Championships surely highlight certain athletes and praise their accomplishments, but at the same time they portray a process and unite people to celebrate the path that has brought us together. Our drive to constantly push for innovation and development of new products and designs has contributed to athletes and all climbers to push the limits of the sport, to reach new heights and to inspire others to follow—opening the sport to a broader audience not only in the mountains but also urban areas. Seeing climbing enter the

Olympics for the first time in 2020 is therefore a monumental step. With this magazine we will offer you a holistic view of this journey and put it into perspective, letting athletes embrace you in their stories and allow you to see it through their eyes. For us climbing is more than a sport. It is more than an activity. And most definitely it is about more than just products. Those are only the tools allowing us to move forward and reach up again when frankly no spark of energy seems to be left in our body. Climbing is about passion. A certain burning fire inside of us. And most importantly it is about people. About humans. About me and you.

— BRAND MARKETING MANAGER EUROPE

CHRISTIAN LEHMANN

STORIES

04 06 11 14 22

Ready when you are Yosemite Then Sean Bailey Adam Ondra

28 38 44 52

Babsi Zangerl Claire Buhrfeind Patxi Usobiaga Jacky Godoffe

Fanny Gibert

PRODUCTS

08 12 13 18 20 24 26

Climbing Shoes Harnesses Quickdraws Belay & Rappel Ropes Climbing Packs Helmets

30 32 34 36 40 46 50

Protection Kids‘ Equipment Headlamps Trekking Poles Women‘s Apparel Men‘s Apparel Bouldering

BLACK DIAMOND ARCHIVE

Monday, BD time. The first sunlight reaches the Nord-

recent adventures. Partly euphoric, partly sobering

kette high above Innsbruck while the Serles (2.717m)

stories from alpine climbs in the western and eastern

outshines the mountain range of the Stubai Alps—

Alps, athletic pitches in Rätikon, hard-fought boulders

exalted and majestic as it presents itself. Every day

in Zillertal or the latest trail run on the Nordkette. It

I choose the same road to work as it’s beautifully em-

seems like everyone here feels exactly like I do. I turn

braced by the mountains. On Monday however, my

on the computer and start reading the first emails from

thoughts are not quite in the present. In my mind, I’m

customers and agents. Most of them start with the

still climbing the walls of Wilder Kaiser, the Dolomites

sentence “How was climbing?” or “Where have you

or wherever I’ve spent the weekend.

been on the weekend?”. It’s Monday everywhere.

When I arrive at the office the coffee machine is already

Slowly the weekend takes a back seat and another excit-

running full speed, surrounded by happy faces and

ing BD life comes to the fore. The subjects are still the

sparkling eyes, excited by their weekend adventures.

same—climbing, mountaineering, ski-touring and trail

In every corner you can hear people talking about their

running but now we are back on the professional stage:

TVB INNSBRUCK / CHRISTIAN VORHOFER – VIEW FROM INNSBRUCK DIRECTION NORDKETTE

Just as much as we perform in the mountains, we per-

bing sharp limestone crimps, if we recently crept out

form when it comes to product development, sales,

of the tent on Vallêe Blanche in Chamonix on Sunday

marketing and all of our departments at BD. Only the

morning or spent the night in the van at the foot of Half

perspective is different.

Dome in Yosemite Valley. What brings us together at BD is a common lifestyle, a spirit that pushes and motiva-

When I switch off the computer in the afternoon and

tes us to venture out, to exceed our limits, but most

think about a short after-work hike, life at the BD head-

importantly to create something for you that allows this

quarters awakes. The coffee machine in Salt Lake City

spirit to live on.

is running full speed and in every corner you can hear people talking about their outdoor adventures on the

By Wednesday we will have our weather forecast pages

weekend. Their eyes have the glint of recent adven-

open, exchange climbing topos and destination ideas—

tures, just as ours did a few hours before. In the end it

all of which we will talk the following Monday. This is

doesn’t matter what time zone we live in, whether our

us, this is BD. What about you?

hands hurt from climbing granite cracks or from grab-

— YOUR BLACK DIAMOND TEAM INNSBRUCK

Yosemite Then Our Clean Climbing Legacy By Doug Robinson

Taking names and kicking asses. It was The Boss again, but he said it with a smile, and an upward glance to be sure you got it. We were all on the same side, all climbers, and The Shop—a tin shed down by the Ventura River that pounded out pitons—was all about climb-ing. We called him The Boss to serve the irony back to him. Also “The Big Cheese” and YC. When he ambled around the corner in huarache sandals to see what you were up to, it was as a comrade. We knew that Yvon Chouinard had done our jobs—invented them probably—and he could help us do them better, easier, with more finesse. That’s the way it started for me, joining The Shop as an assistant bong bender, fairing out the curves of the latest aluminum bongs (now we could protect four-inch cracks!) with a rubber mallet on a wooden block. “Why don’t you come by the house later?” he’d ask at the end of the day. His place was pretty modest, almost a shack, just steps up from the surfline north of town. When the tide was out he taught me how to harvest mussels that clung to the little ridges of bedrock— the same ridges that jacked up shapely waves. Those waves were the reason The Shop was down on the coast, so far from Yosemite. The Boss was a surfer, avid, and inspired most of us out to sea, to try our hand—I mean feet—at walking on water. Tom Frost was hooked, sand between his toes instead of the button-down look he had worn while working in the aerospace industry. He liked it better 6

here, applying his engineering expertise to the artistry of our product. Teamed up, he and Yvon saw their revolutionary reconfiguring of, for instance, the ice axe, which now occupies a glass case in New York’s Museum of Modern Art. Today, I like that mine is still a tool. My hand-forged, bamboo-handled axe hangs on a peg by the door, and yesterday I admired all over again the efficacy of its adze, cutting steps in the snow banks off the street (it’s an epic winter) to get me home. There were winds of change at The Shop in the late Sixties, blowing in clean climbing. Royal Robbins had kicked it off, returning from Britain in 1966 with the “clean” idea of going hammerless. And he brought back a few rudimentary nuts. For instance, tiny Peck Crackers, round on the edges, knurled, and swaged onto steel cable. They got as small as a #3 or #4 Stopper. Using only nuts for pro, Royal immediately led what has now got to be Yosemite’s most popular climb, Nutcracker. That got our attention, and up in the Palisades some of us guides graduated to leading hammerless on Temple Crag. The Shop began turning out a few Stoppers and Hexcentrics, and as confidence grew, fellow guide Jay Jensen and I pushed the boldness to Yosemite by climbing first the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral, and then the Steck-Salathé on Sentinel, without carrying hammers. That same year, 1972, I wrote a clean climbing manifesto, “The Whole Natural Art of Protection” in Chouinard Equipment’s first real catalog.

What happened next combined serendipity with being in the right place at the right time. Dennis Hennek worked at The Shop too, and we had roamed onto enough first ascents, like Cucumbers on Cardinal Pinnacle outside Bishop, with an array of the nuts we built at The Shop. So we were ready when Galen Rowell invited us both to climb the Northwest Face of Half Dome for a National Geographic article. Dennis and I were quietly confident we could climb it clean, so packing for the climb we “forgot” the hammer and pins. Galen was a good sport about it when we told him four pitches up the wall. His photos turned out so stellar that our climb ended up on National Geographic’s cover in June 1974. Huge publicity from that article slam-dunked the clean climbing revolution. All these decades later, and it’s still about the passion for climbing. The Shop, now called Black Diamond, has moved to the Wasatch Mountains of Utah, but that’s old history. Don’t let your attention get sidetracked by the giant warehouse and diversification of products. Or the sophisticated testing labs that make 3-sigma just the baseline of product reliability. The innovation keeps rolling on out. In the last year, for instance, I have gotten just as excited about the new Ultralight Camalots. I refreshed the website for weeks until they were released, and immediately ordered a set. The cams themselves shaped up similarly, though on a much lighter new stem. But the bottom line is that the equipment is still built for pure function … to spark the new climbing revolution. BLACK DIAMOND ARCHIVE – HEADQUARTER BLACK DIAMOND IN SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH

ANDY EARL - BD SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR KATY DANNENBERG CLIMBING IN SOUTHERN UTAH.

Climbing Shoes Featuring our Engineered Knit Technology for exceptional breathability and a uniquely molded rubber, our climbing shoes are designed to provide unparalleled comfort with exceptional performance. more online: https://blkd.md/rockshoes

Shadow The dream shoe for steep, aggressive climbing, the Shadow is a downturned Velcro shoe built for pulling HARD. Featuring our extra-sticky Fuse molded rubber with added friction strips for better toe-hooking, and a durable microfiber upper combined with our Engineered Knit Technology tongue, the Shadow is ready to send your project. SIZE: 5-15 (half sizes except no 14.5)

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Aspect

Focus - Men’s & Women’s

The Aspect is an engineered trad climbing machine. Designed with fine, durable leather, our innovative proprietary molded rubber and an Engineered KnitTechnology tongue. This flat-lasted, slightly asymmetrical lace-up is your perfect everyday partner - from long alpine climbs to crack climbing.

When you’re run out and staring at the crux, it’s time to Focus. Engineered for high-end climbing, the Focus is built for routes and boulder problems that demand precision. Featuring a slightly downturned last with our Force rubber, durable leather, and our Engineered Knit Technology, the Focus is a high-performance Velcro shoe ready for the redpoint.

SIZE: 5-15 (half sizes except no 14.5)

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Sean Bailey steps into the world of BD climbing shoes https://blkd.md/Sean

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Momentum - Men’s & Women’s While our entry-level climbing shoe was built with ultimate comfort in mind, it excels in performance. With Engineered Knit Technology for exceptional breathability and our innovative proprietary molded rubber, the Momentum is the perfect climbing shoe for all-day comfort at the gym or crag. SIZE: Men’s: 5-15 (half sizes except no 14.5), Women’s: 5-10.5 (half sizes)

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Women’s

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Momentum Lace - Men’s & Women’s Featuring Engineered Knit Technology for exceptional breathability and our innovative proprietary molded rubber, the Momentum Lace is built for ultimate comfort and excels in performance. Designed as the perfect entry-level climbing shoe, this lace-up shoe provides ultimate adjustability for all day comfort at the gym or crag. SIZE: Men’s: 5-15 (half sizes except no 14.5), Women’s: 5-10.5 (half sizes)

Sean Bailey Road to the Innsbruck World Championships BD Athlete Sean Bailey is psyched to throw down at the World Championships in Innsbruck, Austria, this September. As the reigning 2018 National Champion in lead climbing, and a recent 2nd place finisher at the bouldering World Cup in Vail, Bailey has been ramping up his competition game. Check out Sean’s thoughts on how he became a climber, and why he cherishes the opportunity to travel the globe for World Cup competitions. “Growing up in the Pacific Northwest I was surrounded by the outdoors. When I was first introduced to climbing by my parents, it was just another way to experience the natural world. As the years went on, however, my passion for climbing grew. I loved the culture, the movement, and the friends I made along the way. The longer I call myself a climber, I‘m amazed to see how my relationship with the sport develops. It‘s like the novelty can‘t wear off. In recent years, I‘ve focused a lot of my energy on competition climbing. It‘s taken me to some incredible places worldwide and has been an experience unlike anything I could have guessed a few years ago. I grew up watching World Cup

events, and it‘s still surreal to be a part of them now. Above all else I‘m thankful for the friends I‘ve made and get to see on a regular basis, all over the globe. Coming up in a few weeks is the biggest competition of the year, the World Championships in Innsbruck, Austria. Although it isn‘t my main goal, it‘s going to be a great competition and a good measure to see who might be successful at the Olympics in 2020. For the past four months I‘ve been training and competing in Bouldering and Lead World Cups and Innsbruck is my last event of the year, so I couldn‘t be more psyched to have one last battle on such a big stage.”

ANDY EARL - BD ATHLETE SEAN BAILEY TRAINING IN THE MOMENTUM LEHI GYM, UT AND WORKING WITH VP OF PRODUCT AND DESIGN KASEY JARVIS ON CLIMBING SHOES.

Harnesses A secure, durable and functional harness is an absolute must—which is why they have been an integral part of BD for more than 25 years. more online: https://blkd.md/harnesses

Zone - Men's

Zone - Women's

Momentum DS

Built for routes that require maximum performance and minimum weight, the Zone is the high end sport climbing harness.

Specifically designed for the woman’s body, the Zone brings the comfort and high performance needed to send the climbing project.

SIZE: S, M, L, XL

SIZE: XS, S, M, L

With maximum adjustability and range of fit, the redesigned Momentum DS is our most versatile, entry-level harness for everything from gym belays to moderate alpine ascents.

WEIGHT: 307 g (M)

WEIGHT: 290 g (M)

SIZE: XXS, XS-M, L-XL WEIGHT: 400 g (L-XL)

Solution - Men’s

Solution - Women’s

Our purpose-built sport climber’s harness, the Solution features Fusion Comfort Technology and a durable, contoured design for superior fit on redpoint burns and marathon belays. SIZE: XS, S, M, L, XL

The Women’s Solution harness is our purpose-built sport climbing harness, specifically designed for a women’s rise and fit. It features Fusion Comfort Technology and a durable, unequaled comfort for long days spent working your project same as belaying.

WEIGHT: 330 g (M)

SIZE: XS, S, M, L WEIGHT: 330 g (M)

Quickdraws With a wide assortment of draws, lockers and standard carabiners, we cover any climbing objective, from the alpine in Alaska to the sport cliffs of Spain.

Positron Quickdraw 12cm

Oz Quickdraw 12cm

Nitron Quickdraw 12cm

Livewire Quickdraw 12cm

more online: https://blkd.md/carabiner

Livewire Quickdraw

Oz Quickdraw

Our high-end sport climbing quickdraw equipped with a keylock Nitron biner on top and a LiveWire carabiner with HoodWire Technology on the bottom.

Our lightest quickdraw, featuring the keylock functionality and snag-free benefits of our HoodWire technology.

WEIGHT: 108 g

WEIGHT: 63 g

Nitron Quickdraw

Positron Quickdraw

Our premier full-keylock quickdraw for snag-free clipping and cleaning.

Our best value, full-keylock quickdraw. Equipped with an 18mm Polyester Dogbone with Straightjacketâ&#x201E;¢.

WEIGHT: 99 g

WEIGHT: 107 g (12 cm), 110 g (16 cm)

ADAM

ONDRA

ON CLIMBING Adam Ondra Tells All: THE BEST ROCK CLIMBER IN THE WORLD TALKS TRAINING, COMP CLIMBING AND THE OLYMPICS There is just one reason why I climb. Because I love it. But there are many different reasons why I love climbing. I love the challenge of climbing, of finding hard routes, training for it, and overcoming the obstacles. I love the mental part of it too, the way I feel when I am up there on the rock. I also enjoy all the other aspects that come with climbing—such as travelling, being outdoors, sleeping in the van. I just love it all. Climbing offers such a variety of experiences that I will never get tired of. It is hard to pick one moment in climbing that would be the most memorable. But if I had to choose, I’d pick climbing Silence, a 9c in Flatanger, Norway, because I had to work for it the most. Climbing this route was a very long process which eventually turned into a unique relationship with the route.

JITKA MAZLOVA - ADAM ONDRA AGE 10 IN ORPIERRE, FRANCE IN 2003

PAVEL BLAŽEK - ADAM ONDRA IN “RENALDO RULES” 8C, GIMMELWALD, SWITZERLAND.

Many climbs are memorable, and it does not really matter whether they are hard or not, but Silence is undoubtedly the climb I’m the proudest of. I had to dig very deep, had to come with the most sophisticated training, had to remain patient despite many hard moments during the process of trying the route, and had to sacrifice the most. In the end, it was all worth it! However, I really appreciate every single time I go climbing. It just feels so natural to me. As if I was made for climbing. Be it the most badass route in the world or be it some mossy piece of choss. It does not really matter. Of course, it is nicer to climb in a stunning location on solid rock, but sometimes, one can get very deep satisfaction even from working on two obscure moves all day long.

On Competitions My main goal for 2018 in terms of competitions is the World Championships in Innsbruck. I will specifically prepare for it all August. I would like to be prepared for both lead and bouldering. It requires training six days a week, countless hours a day. I will be training on the campus board, powerful bouldering, specific “parkour” style bouldering, power endurance and endurance training. All mixed with compensation exercises and perfect recovery. Additionally, I will also be focusing on good nutrition, rest and sleep.

My goal for the World Championships in Innsbruck is making good results. It is hard to say at this moment what I will consider a good result. I have something in my mind, but I do not want say it out loud.

Ondra’s Key Ingredients for Climbing Climbing is a very complex activity. It consists of many different aspects and you cannot really neglect any of it. To pick just one aspect and say it is the key ingre-

BERNARDO GIMENEZ- ADAM ONDRA DURING THE FA OF “SILENCE” 9C IN FLATANGER, NORWAY.

dient would be a simplification. Your mind is an important part, but without all the other aspects, it is useless. Let’s say you must be strong, you must be technically skilled, and your mind must be strong as well. Obviously, the final goal is to be as good as possible in all the aspects. I am still working on that one.

On the Development of the Sport

Nose has possibly been the most groundbreaking achievement ever in the history of climbing. It has also been amazing to see the development of female climbing in very recent years. It is like the mental barrier has been broken and more and more women go out there and climb super hard. PETR PAVLÍCEK

I think the training conditions for climbing have improved a lot. It is now so much easier to train and make it fun with a lot of variety at the same time. Thanks to a wide variety of holds, you can train longer. It is not necessary to climb on crimps exclusively like it was some 20 years ago. I also think that climbers have more knowledge today on how to treat their bodies better, which results in less injuries. Physiotherapy plays an important role there. I don’t think there has been one single moment that made a major revolution in our sport. Rather, it is a constant progress in all aspects—a progress that seems to be speeding up in the recent years. In gear it is lighter ropes, harnesses, quickdraws, and better shoes. We have better training facilities and better training knowledge. There have been some huge achievements that reduced the mental barriers. Everything is constantly moving forward. In terms of influential people, Chris Sharma is the climber who pushed our sport the most in recent years. My personal hero and idol has always been Wolfgang Güllich, and Lynn Hill for females. Her ascent of The

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It is natural that every generation climbs better, and I do not see any reason why it should be any different in the future. I am an optimist, I see the future of climbing being bright. I believe that just as it is right now, even in the future, climbers will respect themselves and anyone can choose to do whatever they want. Be it sport or trad climbing, indoors or outdoors, big walls or boulders, follow your heart and do what you enjoy!

On the Olympics I’m very happy that competition climbing finally made it to the Olympics. I do believe that it deserves its recognition. The advantages outweigh the disadvantages even though I strongly disagree with the combined format as I believe it goes against the evolution of climbing. One could argue that climbing has to change in order to be attractive for the mainstream, but I do not believe so. Additionally, I am a bit worried that this format is the least understandable and interesting for the public. But let’s hope it will be a success in Tokyo and it will be a stepping stone for including all three disciplines in a better format in the upcoming years. I accepted the challenge, I want to go to Tokyo and I want to be prepared. I have not started any specific training yet, but I will start working on it next season.

Adam Ondra - Silence https://blkd.md/silence

Belay & Rappel We continue to design and innovate lightweight, dependable belay and rappel solutions, which is why BD devices have remained essential tools for every climber. more online: https://blkd.md/belay

ATC Pilot An all-new geometry-assisted braking device, the ATC Pilot introduces a system that provides an added level of security to your belay, while allowing for smooth rope payout. WEIGHT: 86 g

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How To: ATC Pilot https://blkd.md/ATCpilot

WILL SAUNDERS

ATC Guide Our most versatile belay and rappel device and the standard device for alpine climbing, ice climbing and multipitch routes.

ATC-XP With multiple friction modes, the ATCXP belay/rappel device is 30% lighter than the original.

WEIGHT: 88 g WEIGHT: 64 g

Big Air Pilot Package The ATC Pilot Package combines the added security of the ATC Pilot with the strength and durability of a GridLock carabiner. WEIGHT: 162 g

Ropes By balancing durability with smooth handling, we’ve created a premium line of ropes that can take you from the gym all the way into the alpine. more online: https://blkd.md/ropes

8.9 Dry

9.4 Dry

9.9

10.2

The Black Diamond 8.9 is an ultralight single rope purpose -built for your redpoint burns. With its dry treated core and sheath, this cord is built for high performance, whether you’re tying in for your project or roping up under a frozen pillar.

The perfect balance between lightweight performance and durability, the 9.4 with dry treatment is the ideal rope for rock climbers who demand high performance day after day.

Built to withstand heavy-use, the Black Diamond 9.9 is a burly cord for year-round rock climbing. Whether you’re roping up in the gym or tying in at your favorite summer sport crag.

A burly cord ideal for big routes, the Black Diamond 10.2 sports a robust diameter that’s built to withstand a barrage of use.

SIZE: 60m, 70m, 80m

SIZE: 35m, 40m, 60m, 70m

SIZE: 50m, 70m, 80m

SIZE: 60m

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Climbing Ropes https://blkd.md/rope

CHRISTIAN ADAM â&#x20AC;&#x201C; BD ATHLETE CARLO TRAVERSI IN WICKED GRAVITY 5.12C ON KILLER PILLAR IN YOSEMITE, CA.

BJÃ&#x2013;RN POHL - BD ATHLETE FANNY GIBERT

FANNY GIBERT

ROAD TO THE INNSBRUCK WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS

Everything started on the basalt rock of Réunion Island where I lived from age 4 until the end of high school. This little French island lost in the Indian Ocean was the best place ever for growing up. At the beginning I was not very passionate about climbing. I loved practicing every sport. I was just following friends and my big brother. However, a teacher from my school named Thierry Caillaud—who happened to be a crazy passionate climber—created a little training group with Manon Hily. Slowly I stopped every other sport to climb more and more: bouldering, lead, indoor and outdoor. In my first competition I was not the best, but my results slowly improved every year. When I finished high school, I applied for INSA de Lyon —an engineering school with a sport section. I was 17 years old when I left home to start studying and training by myself. It was then that our national coach suggested I choose between bouldering and lead to expect better results in one of those disciplines. Turns out bouldering was a pretty good choice: two years later I was standing on my first Bouldering World Cup podium. When I started training with Nico Januel (National coach), he was living in Paris while I was in Lyon. He was sending me a training plan and I was doing it by myself. The first years of studying and training alone

was not easy, but being surrounded by other athletes from different sports was an incredible experience. The support I received from my parents in those moments made all the difference. All along they supported me the best way they could, and I cannot thank them enough for helping with all the hard decisions I had to make to become who I am now. I’ll always remember the morning I woke-up and realized that every decision I made was based on climbing. It seems like only a second passed from being the little girl having fun climbing to the high-level athlete I am now. Last September I started training with Cécile Avezou. This change improved my climbing on many aspects. I’ve learned a lot from her, self-confidence being of one them. Also having a weekly session with my coach helps. This year I’m having the best season of my life. …

Read the full story online: https://blkd. md/experience

TED HESSER - CLIMBING AROUND THE FITZROY MASSIF IN PATAGONIA.

Climbing Packs Built with sleek, streamlined designs and intelligent feature sets, our packs allow for maximum comfort and true freedom of movement. more online: https://blkd.md/packs

Gym 35 The durable, gym bag with shoulder strap that carries your rope, shoes, harness and belay glasses. SIZE: 35l

Stone Duffel 42 A clean and simple duffel-style cragging pack that zips wide open for easy access, the Stone 42 Duffel also includes a removable rope tarp to keep your rope organized out of the dirt. SIZE: 42l

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Pipe Dream 45 Purpose built for the crag, the Pipe Dream 45 Pack carries your entire kit, gives you a place to spread out your gear and provides a comfortable spot to chill between burns. SIZE: 45l

Speed Our time-tested on-route alpine pack for light, alpine-style ascents on rock, snow or ice, the Speed is streamlined, strippable and designed to move with you. SIZE: 22l, 30l, 40, 50l

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Creek This top-loader is ideal for gear intensive cragging sessions, the Creek packs are inspired by our haul bags and built with easy access and unparalleled durability in mind. The Creek can handle any mission you take on. SIZE: 35l, 50l

Blitz The ultimate on-route pack for alpine assaults, with essential, lightweight features that will take you from the base to summit and back. SIZE: 20l, 28l

JAKOB SCHWEIGHOFER - BD ATHLETE KLEMEN PREMRL HAVING FUN IN “HAVANA” WI5 PITZTAL, AUSTRIA.

Helmets Our helmets provide reliable protection for everything from fastand-light alpine blitzes to month-long cragging road trips. more online: https://blkd.md/helmets

Vapor Weighing just 188 grams and featuring massive ventilation ports and a highly adjustable padded suspension system, the Vapor is the lightest, most comfortable and most breathable climbing helmet we’ve ever made. SIZE: S/M, M/L WEIGHT: 188 g, 199 g

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Vector - Women’s Combining lightweight protection, excellent ventilation, a striking feminine design and “barely there” comfort, the Women’s Vector represents the evolution of climbing helmet design. SIZE: onesize WEIGHT: 230 g

Vector Combining lightweight protection, excellent ventilation, a striking design and “barely there” comfort, the Vector represents the evolution of climbing helmet design.

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SIZE: S/M, M/L WEIGHT: 230 g, 245 g

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Half Dome Women’s The tried-and-true construction of our classic Half Dome helmet, now with a women’s-specific design and improved design benefits. SIZE: onesize

Half Dome Our durable, comfortable and supremely adjustable workhorse, the Half Dome is built for the relentless pursuit of all styles of climbing.

WEIGHT: 330 g

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SIZE: S/M, M/L WEIGHT: 310 g, 340 g

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Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher send El Cap’s Magic Mushroom (VI 5.14a) BD Athlete Babsi Zangerl and Ambassador Jacopo Larcher were already one of the most successful big-wall free-climbing teams in history. They had ticked El Cap’s El Nino (VI 5.13c A0) and the Zodiac (VI 5.13d). But last December, they decided to up the ante and attempt the coveted second ascent of Tommy Caldwell’s Magic Mushroom (VI 5.14a). With 28 pitches—a dozen of which clock in at the 5.13 to 5.14- range—Magic Mushroom has a formidable reputation as being El Cap’s second hardest route. “It felt impossible,” Babsi said after trying the line. But the team wasn’t easily

deterred. They got to work, and during an 11day push, Babsi and Jacopo topped out, and in doing so, solidified their place in the pantheon of the big wall free-climbing elite. Forty meters below the summit, what seemed impossible at first has finally become reality. I would’ve never thought I would be able to climb all those pitches free to reach the final testpiece. It‘s day nine on the wall and we are both tired from the previous days of climbing. But our motivation is stronger than ever. The sun is shining, we are hanging out in our portaledge and the weather is on our side. Although it is much too warm to try the next hard pitch in the sunshine, we keep getting perfect conditions at night. Waiting for sunset feels like an eternity and our eyes keep wandering up the last big challenge of Magic Mushroom, the 5.14a “Seven Seas” pitch shortly before the top. Trying to memorize all the single movements, I always seem to get to a point where I doubt that it will work out for me. My excitement is bigger than ever and never before had I felt such a desire to climb a route. Thoughts about failure and having to return next year seem absurd, yet likely. Having to start it all over again, with 900 meters of climbing, 13 pitches harder than 8a and hardly any fixed pro ... In view of all this, the chance to climb it now feels like a gift. Jacopo was in high spirits, he had checked everything out and found a perfect solution for the crux shortly before the belay.

But I was doubtful and anxious that pitch 27 could mean the end for me … FRANCOIS LEBEAU- BABSI AND JACOPO PREPARING THE PORTALEDGE ON EL CAPITAN.

Read the full story & watch the video: https://blkd. md/experience

JON GLASSBERG - BD ATHLETE BABSI ZANGERL HIGH ABOVE THE GROUND ON EL CAPITAN DURING THE 2ND ASCENT OF MAGIC MUSHROOM (VI 5.14A).

ANDY EARL

Protection Climbing protection has been a hallmark of BD innovation since the days of the original HexentricÂŽ chocks that helped spawn the clean climbing revolution in the early â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;70s. more online: https://blkd.md/protection

A breakthrough for fast-and-light missions, the Camalot Ultralight introduces a 25% lighter version of the world’s most trusted camming device. SIZE: .4, .5, .75, #1, #2, #3, #4

CamalotTM X4 Offset

CamalotTM X4

CamalotTM

CamalotTM Ultralight

Camalot™ Ultralight

WEIGHT: 61 g, 74 g, 89 g, 101 g, 126 g, 167 g, 225 g

Camalot™ The world’s best-selling and mosttrusted camming device, with a doubleaxle design that allows for a huge camming range. SIZE: .75, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 WEIGHT: 119 g, 136 g, 155 g, 201 g, 289 g, 380 g, 557 g

Camalot™ X4 A durable, versatile 4-lobed camming unit, the Camalot X4 combines our patent-pending Stacked Axle Technology with a narrow head-width and integrated cam springs to offer more expansion range than any small cam on the market. SIZE: .1, .2, .3, .4, .5, .75 WEIGHT: 51 g, 54 g, 75 g, 82 g, 91 g, 112 g

Camalot™ X4 Offset Stopper Set Pro #1-13 Stoppers No. 1-13 racked on a Micron carabiner. SIZE: 1-13 WEIGHT: 456 g

Our versatile 4-lobe, flexible-stem camming unit with a narrow headwidth and integrated cam springs, the Camalot X4 Offset merges the expansion range of our Camalots with anodized, offset lobes for secure placements in pin scars and other nonuniform placements. SIZE: .1/.2, .2/.3, .3/.4, .4/.5, .5/.75 WEIGHT: 53 g, 64 g, 78 g, 86 g, 101 g

Offset Stopper Set #7-11 p Sto

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The Black Diamond Offset Stoppers add versatility to your rack by utilizing offset geometry for pin scars or irregular cracks while free climbing or aid climbing.

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SIZE: 7-11 WEIGHT: 249.77 g

ANDY EARL

Kids’ Equipment Our kids equipment is designed for the young crushers of the world, to make gym time enjoyable for the young generation. more online: https://blkd.md/kids

Momentum - Kids’

Momentum Kids’ Shoe

Our premier kids’ harness built with the same features and technology as our adult models, the Momentum Kids’ is designed for aspiring crushers.

Designed for the young crushers of the world, the Kids’ Momentum climbing shoe was built to provide unparalleled comfort. With Engineered Knit Technology for exceptional breathability and molded rubber, the Momentum is the perfect entry-level climbing shoe for all day comfort.

SIZE: One size WEIGHT: 240 g

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SIZE: 11, 12, 13, 1, 2, 3, 4

Momentum - Kids’ Full Body The Momentum Kid’s Full Body Harnesses provides full support without sacrificing comfort for the mini-me crushers of the world. Easily adjustable for growing kids with a high tie-in point. SIZE: One size WEIGHT: 314 g

Wiz Our totally redesigned kids’ headlamp that now features lighting in a fullcolor spectrum, the Wiz gives kids the lighting they need to explore the outdoors in a variety of fun colors.

Kids’ Tracer Superior lightweight protection and comfort, for kids. SIZE: One size WEIGHT: 235 g

Mojo Kids’ Designed with the size of a child’s hand in mind, the Mojo Kid’s is perfect for the pint-sized crusher.

WEIGHT: 56 g (with batteries)

■■■ 30 Lumens

Headlamps Perched on a portaledge, cooking in camp or stretching the limits of the daylight hours, BD’s reliable lighting is an essential tool for any outdoor endeavor. more online: https://blkd.md/headlamps

JON GRIFFITH- BD ATHLETE HAZEL FINDLAY, AFTER A LONG CLIMBING DAY ON PILIAR BETTEMBOURG, AGUILLE D’ARGENTIERE, CHAMONIX.

ReVolt

Spot

Our highly versatile rechargeable headlamp, the redesigned Revolt features a waterproof design, PowerTap Technology and massive 300 lumens, with the added option of charging via USB or using standard alkaline batteries.

Our legendary full-featured headlamp with a precise and powerful beam, waterproof design and our PowerTap Technology, the Spot now features an incredible 300 lumens and improved peripheral lighting for close-range tasks.

WEIGHT: 89 g (with batteries)

WEIGHT: 90 g (with batteries)

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300 Lumens

Cosmo

Iota

Updated with 200 lumens of light and a modern waterproof housing, the Cosmo is sleek, super-bright and ready for any mountain adventure you can throw at it.

A tiny light that packs a rechargeable punch, the Iota is our smallest and lightest rechargeable light, powering fast morning training sessions and evening hikes before beers.

WEIGHT: 56 g (with batteries)

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200 Lumens

150 Lumens

ReMoji A bright and simple essential for your camp kit or roadtrip rig, the ReMoji Lantern is a compact rechargeable light that provides ample illumination for cooking dinner, sorting the rack or hanging out in the van. The ReMoji’s streamlined and durable design features a dimming function and an internal lithium ion battery that recharges easily via USB.

Apollo

WEIGHT: 86 g (with batteries)

Completely redesigned for better, brighter in-camp illumination, the fully rechargeable Apollo features 250 lumens of glare-free light and charges handheld electronics via USB.

150 Lumens

WEIGHT: 289 g, 250g (with batteries)

■■■ 250 Lumens

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ReVolt Headlamp https://blkd.md/revolt

DAN PATITUCCI - BD ATHLETE JOE GRANT RUNNING ON BARRHORN, VALAIS, SWITZERLAND

Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher Send El Cap’s Magic Mushroom (VI 5.14a) BD’s Trail, Alpine and Distance Series trekking poles are

Trekking Poles

among today’s strongest, lightest and most versatile three and four-season poles on—or off—the trail. more online: https://blkd.md/poles

Distance Plus FLZ Built for the long haul, no matter the season, the Distance Plus FLZ is adaptable and supportive, combining Z-Pole and SlideLock technology with FlickLockÂŽ adjustability. With a comfortable dual-density top grip and a versatile 4-season flex tip, the Distance Plus FLZ is ready to hit the trail. SIZE: 105-125 cm, 120-140 cm WEIGHT: 510 g, 545 g

Distance Carbon Z

Alpine FLZ

Alpine Carbon Z

Our lightest Z-Pole built for mountain athletes and weight conscious adventurers, the Distance Carbon Z is strong and durable, making it the ultimate in folding-pole performance.

The Alpine FLZ is durable, packable and highly versatile -combining SlideLock technology and the FlickLock Pro system for a perfect fit and easy transition from summer hikes to winter ski tours by simply swapping the baskets.

Our durable, four-season, carbon trekking pole has joint support and durability, making the Alpine Carbon Z-Pole a strong yet ultralight pole for mountain missions.

SIZE: 100 cm, 110 cm, 120 cm, 130 cm WEIGHT: 275 g, 285 g, 300 g, 315 g

SIZE: 95-110 cm, 105-125 cm, 120-140 cm

SIZE: 100 cm, 110 cm, 120 cm, 130 cm WEIGHT: 400 g, 425 g, 447 g, 475 g

WEIGHT: 511 g, 552 g, 587 g

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Black Diamond Presents: Rhythm https://blkd.md/rhythm

ALL PHOTOS: ANDY EARL – BD ATHLETE CLAIRE BUHRFEIND TRAINING AT THE FRONT CLIMBING GYM IN OGDEN, UT

Claire Buhrfeind Road to the Innsbruck World Championships BD Athlete Claire Buhrfeind thrives on competition. This past March, the 19-year-old from Texas burst onto the scene, becoming the U.S. national champion in both speed and lead climbing. Now, she has her eye on the World Championships in Innsbruck, Austria, and is looking even further into the future at the 2020 Olympics. But for Claire, competing isn’t about going toe-to-toe with other climbers. In fact, her philosophy is more of an inward journey. Read on to learn how Claire views competition, and why climbing is so important to her. I began climbing when I was 10, with Team Texas, and my coach and mentor, Kyle Clinkscales. Our “local crag” was our gym, so naturally we spent most of our time training. But on any school break, the team would road trip across the country to climb outside. These experiences gave me my love for the sport, and its community. I’ll always return to the rock and explore my abilities outside, but considering climbing’s

upcoming debut in the Olympics, my focus is on competing. From the beginning, I’ve been drawn to competition. It’s about competing with myself, which is what I think most climbers would say. I’m chasing the moment when I feel everything fall into place; quieting my mind, finding my flow, and executing my training.

When I found out climbing would be included in the Olympics, it was like this dream I’d always had was suddenly right in front of me. I want to give myself the best possible chance to contend. It’s important that I invest time in the learning process, travel on the World Cup Circuit, and figure out what it really means to be prepared across all disciplines. At this level, the little things matter so much more. It’s not just your training in the gym, but also your mental preparation— sleep, recovery, nutrition—everything that can give you an extra edge. It all needs to be dialed. The World Championship is another test on the way to 2020. Athletes from all over the world will be in top form, looking to see how they measure up in the combined format. I am excited for the opportunity to show my best and represent the USA in Innsbruck.

Vide

Welcome to the BD Team: Claire Buhrfeind https://blkd.md/clairebuhrfeind

First Light Hoody The First Light Hoody covers everything from first tracks to first ascents. Constructed with lightweight Schoeller and packed with PrimaLoft Silver Insulation Active, it’s our most breathable insulation piece. SIZE: XS-XL

■■ Campus Tank A racerback cut and ultra-soft, sheer fabric give the Campus Tank a barely-there feel, and an integrated sports bra adds support. SIZE: XS-XL

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Credo Pants Purpose-built from durable stretch cotton twill that moves with you, the Credo Pants are ideal for long days at the crag that bleed into after-send celebrations. SIZE: 2-12

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Women's Apparel Our apparel collection is designed with the help from our female athletesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;from warmup tops that take the chill out of early morning sessions to streamlined bottoms for unlocking crux sequences and shells that keep you dry. more online: https://blkd.md/women-apparel

WILL SAUNDERS

Icon Headband Like a beanie with the top cut off, the Icon Headband keeps you warm without overheating.

FineLine Stretch Rain Shell From high alpine monsoons on mountain missions to trail explorations, the FineLine shell has you covered. Featuring our BD.dry™ waterproof/breathable solution, the FineLine is a durable, lightweight stretch shell built for mountain adventures. SIZE: XXS-XL

■■■ Six Shooter Tank For uninhibited movement on the rock, the Six Shooter Tank features an internal stretch mesh bra for added support and highly breathable stretch fabric to increase airflow. SIZE: XS-XL

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Stretch Font Pants Lightweight twill pants with a touch of stretch for high-steps, mantles and heel hooks, the Stretch Font Pants look as good as they climb. SIZE: 2-12

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MICHAEL STEIMLE - BD ATHLETE KADDI LEHMANN DURING THE FFA OF KRYPTOS 8C, BAHLSTAL, SWITZERLAND.

PATXI USOBIAGA

From Winning World Championships to Training Ondra

The Basque Visionary Shares His Journey Along the Road to Innsbruck For several reasons, you could certainly blame my parents for my involvement in this incredible sport. They were open-minded, encouraged my siblings and I to have a close relationship to the mountains from the time we were little, and they didn’t fall prey to all of their friends’ and family’s criticism for letting their little 10-year-old boy dream of climbing up walls. Neither of them, not my mother nor my father, climbed. I was the one who learned how to belay with a figure 8 belay device and who taught my father how to use it. Due to the patience they both showed me, I can honestly say that now—28 years later—I still enjoy this amazing sport that continues to teach me through challenges, new types of disciplines and types of rock. Climbing is a process that never stops teaching you. Something that I’ve found to be so astonishing is how we constantly reinvent ourselves in order to be able to wake up each day and smile, to have a new goal to work toward, and to keep growing bigger and better When I was just 10 years old that sensation of waking up and finding happiness was achieved by going to the local climbing gym in Eibar, putting on my climbing shoes, and trying to copy my idols that I had seen in the Desnivel magazine. I read the half page article that was dedicated to talking about climbing at least 100 times, imagining how those hard routes (Font 8s) must have been. That was a grade that I thought I’d never actually climb. I looked for colorful tights, which were common among the top climbers in the early 90s. I tried to do heel hooks, yaniros (figure fours), drop-knees, and all the new tricks that were described in the book “Learn to climb” (“Aprende a escalar” in Spanish.) Little by little, due to the ease and convenience that sport climbing provided my parents and me and since

we lived close to several climbing areas, I began sport climbing more (than other climbing disciplines.) In addition, at the young age of 11 I had already felt the adrenaline rush of the competition world and that was the biggest hook for me, alongside the feeling of being able to evolve and improve. Challenging yourself against your fears and being able to overcome and win that battle was certainly the driving factor that eventually lead to World Cup and World Championship wins alongside a multitude of outdoor routes climbed over the world, with just one goal—to climb something a little bit harder each day. Imagine this scenario: One day you wake up and you are just two months away from competing in the 2009 World Championship. You are scared, you doubt yourself, you aren’t sure if you want to continue or if you have the strength to do so, or even if it is all worth it. That is the moment when you have to remember that this is where you have wanted to be for years, in my case since I was a 10-year-old. I realized that I had reached the place where my idols had once been, the ones that taught me that anything is possible when you fight for it. I still get overcome by that feeling when I close my eyes and remember that first competition as such a small child, that first harness that was so big that it nearly fell off, and those quick draws that came down to my knees. Those two months passed, and the World Championship arrived on July 5, 2009. I untied the knot after sending and lowering off the final route in the World Championship, and an unexpected but life-altering process began. There was this young climbing machine that was climbing everything that you put in front of him. In that 2009 World Championship, Adam Ondra climbed very high and placed second, but that one hold that kept him from being the World Champion, that one

TOP hold that led me to victory, was the key to a new process. It was the beginning of a new chapter in my life, featuring one of the most incredible people that I have ever had the pleasure of knowing—both as a climber and a human being. I have to say that after my professional retirement from the competition world due to a cervical injury and my distancing from the climbing world for over more than two years, the confidence that Adam had in me was astonishing. His energy was contagious and he had a fervent desire to always be better, climb higher, but most of all to conquer the personal fight to overcome any doubts about being able to climb how he really wanted to. It was a bit by accident that he provoked my return to the sport, inviting me to put the climbing shoes back on for a new challenge. The injury was a limiting factor for me and it always will be, but even with this limitation, climbing was once again part of my reality. Now I’m older, with less hair, with con-

stant aches and pains, but that illusion is still there to experience the incredible power inside each of us. To this day, in 2018, after an entire life revolving around climbing and more than half of my life focused on training to be able to improve as a climber, it is now a reality that climbing will be part of the Olympics in 2020. It is quite an evolution for our sport, and I hope I can be there with Adam Ondra in the most important event for all athletes, relishing in the feeling that the thing we love, we’ve prepared for, and that is the most important thing for us is finally a reality to be celebrated. Many youngsters and no-longer-soyoungsters could discover what we, the climbers, did when our time finally came to present this sport to the world. Whether it is sport climbing, aid climbing, trad climbing, competition, bouldering … what-ever it may be, we all share the same end goal: TO CLIMB HARDER AND HIGHER!

JAVI PEC – BD ATHLETE PATXI USOBIAGA CLIMBING “RC”, 8c+ IN SADERNES

CHRISTIAN ADAM – BD ATHLETE RYAN ROBINSON ENJOYING A RAINY DAY IN WASHINGTON.

Men's Apparel Perfect for the gym or crag—and stylish enough for the afterparty—Logowear features classic designs, organic cotton and a comfortable fit. For brisk, shady alpine walls and unexpected temperature drops, our jackets and hoodies feature versatile fabrics and insulation to provide superior warmth and weather protection. more online: https://blkd.md/ApparelMen 46

Trucker Hat Primed and ready for long days on the open range, the Trucker Hat is a road trip essential.

■■■ Logo Hoody The perfect place to kick back between burns or hideout during a rest day, the Logo Hoody combines an organic cotton outer with a soft-to-the-touch brushed backer. Two front hand pockets keep your hands warm during late fall days at the cliff, and the leather logo patch adds a classic touch. SIZE: S-XL

Credo Pants Purpose-built from durable and stretch cotton twill that moves with you, the Credo Pants are ideal for long days at the crag that bleed into after-send celebrations. SIZE: 28-38

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First Light Hoody From first tracks to first ascents, the First Light Hoody is the quintessential start-stop piece, a layer that breathes and moves on alpine approaches, banger skin laps and everything in between. Fully insulated with PrimaLoft Silver Insulation Active and constructed from lightweight Schoeller, it is our most breathable insulation piece, and will stay on through all of your transitions. SIZE: S-XL

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Stretch Font Pants Made from a timeless twill fabric with added stretch, the Stretch Font Pants tackle both the obligatory morning espresso stop and the slopey mantle top-outs that are sure to follow. SIZE: 28-38

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Flat Bill Trucker Hat Primed and ready for long days, the Flat Bill Trucker Hat is a road trip essential.

ANDY EARL â&#x20AC;&#x201C; BD ATHLETES MATTY HONG AND NALLE HUKKATAIVAL DURING THE ATHLETE SUMMIT IN THE CITY OF ROCKS, IDAHO.

Black Gold Chalk Black Gold Chalk is scientifically engineered to enhance your grip. By combining our classic White Gold with 10% Pure Gold—a concentrated form of hyper-absorbent Upsalite—we’ve created Black Gold, an additive-free blend of chalk with TWICE the absorption of regular chalk. SIZE: 100 g, 200 g, 300 g

White Gold Chalk Our white chalk is specifically blended for climbing and ensuring maximum grip no matter how hot or humid it gets. SIZE: 100 g, 200 g, 300 g

ANDY EARL - BD ATHLETE ALEX HONNOLD GETTING READY FOR HIS NEXT CLIMB.

Mondo Chalk Pot Our Mondo Chalk Pot made out of repurposed materials from our sewing factory features a stable, upright design, magnetic closure, a zippered pocket and brush pockets. SIZE: onesize

Mondo Our mega-sized highball pad with a super-durable construction and premium foam layup, the Mondo is a fixture under tall, scary problems from Bishop to Rocklands. SIZE: 112x165x12.5 cm

Gym Chalk Bag Drop Zone Our mid-sized, do-it-all pad, the Drop Zone features a premium foam layup and a tacofold design with an elastic flap for securely storing your shoes, chalk and essentials inside. SIZE: 104x122x9 cm

Designed with the gym climber in mind, the Gym Chalk Bag has an integrated, refillable chalk ball, a brush holder and can clip directly to your harness. SIZE: S/M, M/L

Small/Medium:

■■■■■ Medium/Large:

Impact A simple, all-around pad for dayto-day or entry-level use, the Impact features a clean, hingefold design and a premium foam layup. SIZE: 100x114x10 cm

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Bouldering Whether you’re scouring the forest for new projects or calling in favors for some pad-posse highballing, our bouldering pads and accessories are essential components for the blocs. more online: https://blkd.md/bouldering

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Nalle Hukataival - The finnish line https://blkd.md/nalle

JEREMIAH WATT - BD ATHLETE NALLE HUKKATAIVAL IN “BLUE STEEL” V8 LITTLE COTTONWOOD, UTAH.

JACKY GODOFFE

The Legendary Bleausard Reflects On His Long, Winding Road to the Innsbruck World Championships I started climbing very late at 20 years old on the boulders of Fontainebleau and it was a revelation. I had found a playground that perfectly suited my expectations for life ... an open space to reveal many kinds of inspiration through the rock, then plastic competitions all over the world. Just to share emotion with people.

Now, I still love to climb in the forest as much as the first day I started. Because of this place, because of the sandstone, because of its kind of magic. I still have projects because one thing has never changed for me: Tomorrow will be better than today, and I always need to be surprised by life. So, what could be the next step?

In the beginning I was a performer, especially in Font. It was inspiring to me, a mix between high performance and a dream being in such a beautiful place. At the same time, soft about the touch and hard about moves. I had time, so I spent many hours walking through the forest searching for lines that could allow me to push the limits: mine and the limits of the sport. My obsession was 8a, then 8b, and eventually 8c— which I never reached. It was a way to learn that the process was finally more interesting than the outcome. I do not mean that outcome is not important—it is—but the main change for me after some 10 years of obsession for grades was a new angle of perspective: Starting with a blank piece of rock, playing with doubts, strength and time, and trying to put it all together like a puzzle. And at the end: a feeling of being at ease. The most exciting moment was not the final one but the search.

I‘ll let life decide if my body will continue to follow my crazy aspirations for climbing. Until now, in my early 60‘s, I was lucky with genetics and did not have any injuries or limitations. I’ll continue enjoy climbing and hope that it will be like this for longer. If not, I‘ll be back to music or anything else. Who knows? Life is not a quiet river, but I love it.

For the next 20 years I was more focused on the magic and inspiring lines whatever the grade. I also had a time factor to deal with: I became a father of five children and I had less time to spend in this secret garden. So, the last 15 years I would say that I was focused on sharing experiences with others. I was lucky to become a route setter so that I had the opportunity to explore this dimension and the others I‘ve experimented with before.

My Road to Innsbruck Innsbruck is a kind of second home where I feel the soul of climbing through the professional and friendly community that lives here. It is a mix of a clever development for the national team with a door open to everyone, whatever his or her nationality. I do not know yet what could be my contribution for this World Championship, but I will find a way to be here for sure, as I feel like a part of the game, and even if I could not be there physically, a part of my soul will be for sure. I‘ve always appreciated visionaries in climbing and Innsbruck was—and still is—a role model in our industry. They dare to think XXL and I love this vision. My Road to Tokyo When competition officially started in the middle of the 80s, I already knew deep inside that climbing deserved the highest aspirations.

Thirty years later, on the one hand it is done and on the second hand it is a starting point for a new vision adapted to our development and aspirations to grow. However, it is about having the XXL vision, because I have the feeling that Olympic games are not the ultimate dream. The most important dream is how the climbing community will grow, keeping the values of our sport, and giving a global audience the very best of it. Adaptation, curiosity and inspiration are probably some of the key words to never stop enlarging the vision.

ALL PHOTOS: SCOTT NOY LEFT: JACKY AND ADAM SHARING BETA ON THE WORLDS FIRST 8A BOULDER - C’ÉTAIT DEMAIN, 8A IN CUVIER REMPART, FONTAINEBLEAU RIGHT: JACKY ON TOP OF LA MERVEILLE 8A+

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BDTV - Episode 6: The Master of Moves https://blkd.md/move

#respecttherock 54

WHY WE CARE Protecting places we love is as important to us as building the gear which takes us there. Contemplating the impact our company has on the world around us dates back to Doug Robinson’s clean climbing essay “The Whole Natural Art of Protection,” published in the Chouinard Equipment’s 1972 catalog. After the sobering realization that our pitons were permanently scarring pristine climbing routes, we decided to implement the use of hammerless protection (Camalots and Stoppers – as on page 30-31). This shift of consciousness about how we could climb more responsibly inspired us all to become better stewards of the areas where we climb and our wild spaces. While our brand name has since changed to Black Diamond, our commitment to protecting what’s sacred has not. We still manufacture world-class mountain equipment, we added apparel and climbing shoes to our product portfolio and so we will continue to actively support local grassroot organizations, events and athletes who work hard to protect our playgrounds for future generations.

SCOTT NOY - BD ATHLETE NICO FAVRESSE CLEANING UP IN ISATIS DURING THE “CHASIN THE RUBBISH” EVENT IN FONTAINEBLEAU.

Black Diamond Equipment Headquarters 2084 E 3900 S, Salt Lake City UT 84124, USA bdmo@bdel.com Black Diamond Equipment Europe GmbH Hans-Maier-Strasse 9 6020 Innsbruck, Austria info@blackdiamond.eu BD Catalog Team : Christian Lehmann, Sabine K. Weissensteiner, Lukas Kruch, Eva Kuprella, Chris Parker, Joanna Kornacki, Susanne Pfrengle, Tyler Willcut Studio Photography : Andy Earl Cover Photo : Jeremiah Watt – Ian Nielsen in “Pillow Fight” 5.10, Paradise Forks, Arizona Backcover : Andy Earl – BD Athlete Claire Buhrfeind during a training session in Ogden, UT Musical Inspiration: https://blkd.md/AlexHonnoldPlaylist Copyright Black Diamond Equipment Europe GmbH all rights reserved Printed in Austria on PEFC-certified paper

Follow us https://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com https://www.instagram.com/blackdiamond https://www.facebook.com/blackdiamondequipment https://twitter.com/BlackDiamond