Art of Soles by School of Art, George Mason University

ART OF

SOLES ASIA JORDAN

Copyright © 2021 Asia Jordan All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the copyright owner except in the case of brief quotations in critical articles and reviews.

Book design and Illustrations by Asia Jordan

ART OF SOLES ASIA JORDAN

What is a sneakerhead? The typical definition is someone who collects and or trades sneakers as a hobby. They usually know a great deal about the latest sneaker trends and are savvy on sneaker history. The sneakerhead term has shaped and molded over the years. Nike and Jordan are amongst the most popular brands that sneakerheads usually follow. The popularity of these brands has turned many of the famous sneakers we know, into

wasn’t until the late 90s when these models became collector items. In 2002, Nike launched the Nike SB (skateboarding) product line, offering special colorways of the classic Nike Dunk in a fat-tongued skaterfriendly fit. The limited availability of the Nike SB line lit a flame in the sneaker head subculture; newly produced sneakers quickly became collector’s items due to the limited availability, and thus

THE SNEAKERHEAD WHO QUALIFIES TO BE ONE?

collectors’ items. Brands such as Adidas, New Balance, Vans, and Reebok paved the way, but did not make as much of an impact. The sneaker trend has changed not only in marketing and price point, but through shoe collecting itself. There was a point in time when sneakers we’re highly fulfilled due to demand. Colorways and sizes were available to the average consumer. “In the 90s, Nike and Air Jordan were producing indomitable lines of footwear designs. Both companies were the unchallenged leaders in the industry, and it 4

the market value of the shoes exceeded the suggest retail price.” 1 Due to new limited availability, the sneaker purchasing routine has evolved. Today, as demand rises, consumers are subject to limited sneaker raffles and shoe store lines with extensive waiting periods. These new processes do not guarantee you the sneakers that you may want. Year after year, the sneakerhead culture grows making it harder to obtain limited releases. Due to the new sneaker scope, it’s now about what you know! It’s the art of the soles!

SNEAKERHEA NEAKERHEA EAKERHEADS SNEAKERHEA EAKERHEADF NEAKERHEA ERHEADSNEA

CHUCK T THE FIRST

TAYLOR POPULAR SNEAKER

What’s the oldest and best-selling basketball sneaker of all time? Sixty percent of all Americans own or have owned a minimum of one pair of this shoe! It’s not Jordan’s or Nike’s! It’s not made by Fila, Reebok, New Balance, or Adidas. It’s the classic Converse All-Star “Chuck Taylor”! In 1908, the Converse Rubber Corporation opened for business. From the start, the company only produced work-related rubber shoes seasonally. Eventually, the company decided to start producing sports shoes that were definitely more effective. With the recognition of basketball, the Converse Corporation saw the need to develop a shoe that folks could wear while playing basketball. After plenty of research and development, the very first version of the All-Star basketball shoe was produced in 1917. The All-Star shoe originally came in natural brown colors with black trim. In the 1920s, Converse AllStars were made entirely of black canvas or leather material. The Chuck Taylor was to be the prime mass-produced basketball shoe in North America. 2

Many know the shoe to have a very thick rubber sole and an upper canvas that wrapped and covered the ankle. At first, sales were slow. They were to rapidly increase some years later, due to Charles ‘Chuck’ H. Taylor. Charles H. Taylor is a player in the Akron Firestone Band. He liked what he saw in the shoe and imagined its potential for the game of basketball. He was so successful in promoting Converse All-Stars, which included making important changes in the design of the All-Star shoe. In 1932, his name “Chuck Taylor” was added to the ankle patch. The “Chuck Taylor” All-star basketball shoes are born! Chuck Taylor designed the all-white high-top model for the 1936 Olympics, the sneakers were wrapped with a patriotic red and blue trim on the sole and became extremely popular. 2 Today you’ll still buy either the famous optical white model or the off-white model called the natural white. Since this time, models of the sneaker have expanded to incorporate multiple colorways that fit the fashion of any who wish to wear them. ART OF SOLES 7

The sneaker design is curated digitally. This will help in making a sample shoe before true production begins.3

The design is sent to a laser cutter. It cuts out the main pieces of the design from a thick paper to build the sample. The sample is then assembled for production clarity.3

HOW SNEAKERS ARE MADE “THE BUILDING PROCESS”

The design that was produced, is sent to the 3-D printer. The printer preps the design to curate a mold of the sole by the printer (the mold is usually a metal).3

4 8

The mold is then injected with the material to build the sole. This is usually a plastic. The sole cools and cures. The soles are inspected to make sure that it’s ready for the rest of production.3

A die cut is used to cut fabric for inner soles. The fabric is labeled by shoe size.3

A shoe last is used to make and mold all the pieces together by shoe size. The pieces involve stitching, stapling, and gluing to all come together. A hydraulic press is used to press the sole on the bottom of the shoe as a finishing touch.3

The upper fabric of the shoe is cut and sewn in parts. Some parts may need to be glued for proper adherence.3

The shoes go through a final inspection and cleaning to make sure it is ready to send out to its new home! 3 ART OF SOLES 9

THE LIFE 10

FESTYLE SNEAKERS FOR CASUAL STREETWEAR

Lifestyle sneakers are just as they say, they support your lifestyle. These sneakers are not subject to brand as they fit the typical aesthetic of any sneakerhead. Lifestyle as a category will showcase brands of sneakers such as Nike, Vans, Puma, New Balance, Adidas, and more. These are not typical of performance based sneakers. Some of them may or may not be

comfortable, they are suitable for more design purposes than long walks as we say. Lifestyle sneakers are the artistic expression sneaker. If you are one of those people that love bright colors, high soles, and typical streetwear, then these are the sneakers for you. These next few pages will take you on a visual journey through the classic and yet popular types of lifestyle sneakers. ART OF SOLES 11

AIR FORCE ONE “WHITE ON WHITE”

The Air Force is a classic exemplary shoe made by Nike that started with the Air Force 1 and proceeded to incorporate the Air Force 2, Air Force 3, Air Force STS, Air Force 5, Air Force XXV and Air Force 09. The Air Force 1 was made by architect Bruce Kilgore and was the principal basketball shoe to utilize the methods of Nike Air.4 The shoe is offered in low, mid and hightop. The mid and high-top Air Force 1s accompany a Velcro strap; the mid-top strap is made with the shoe while the high-top’s strap is versatile and removable on certain colorways. This shoe is best known as the 12

most popular lifestyle shoe to make a comeback over the years. The most popular colors feature the allwhite and all-black variation. The all-white variation is known for its diverse ‘naming’ among many cultures. Another key component for the Air Force 1 sneaker is a little emblem placed on the lower part of the shoelaces. This emblem is removable when the shoelaces are taken out of the shoe. It is engraved with the signature “AF-1”, with the year “’82”. It’s originally been made out of a silver-shaded metal (some have moved to a gold-toned metal).4

AIR MAX PLUS “WALKING ON AIR”

“Nike Air Max is a line of shoes produced by Nike, Inc., with the first model released in 1987. Air Max was conceptualized by Tinker Hatfield, who initially worked for Nike designing stores.”5 The Air Max Plus, released in 1998, became the first shoe to feature Nike’s Tuned Air system. The Air Max TN is its common name. Sean McDowell designed the Air Max Plus, which features 3-D waves along a tech material making for an ocean like design. The “Hyper Blue” colorway, which featured a fading blue airbrush effect, was the first to be published.5 The colorways have

since expanded to feature some of the most prominent color combinations. The Nike swoosh includes a new treatment, with a border (used in many color variations for enhancement) and includes a 3-D treatment. By design and name, the air max features clear bubbles in the sole of the sneaker. These “airbags” of sorts are filled with pressured gas. This feature brags for lightweight soles and that “walking on air” feeling. With the nature of the shoes and the line of Air Max to come, this has become one of Nike’s most innovative and popular shoes for the sneakerhead culture. ART OF SOLES 13

AIR MAX ONE “THE ORIGINAL”

The first and oldest version of the retro shoe we love, we present the Air Max 1. It was first released in 1987 and famously designed by Tinker Hatfield. It was initially released in a white and red colorway, but has grown colorful and successful in its retro feel.6 The shoe was marketed as a running shoe but has changed efforts as it makes the lifestyle category. Composed of a leather based, sometimes mixed with suede, the shoe stands out as a leading introduction to Nike Air innovation. As the name states, this is was the first shoe to test the “air cushion” soles method. It included one 14

transparent pressurized gas bubble in the center of the plastic soles. This new technology was inspired by the Centre Pompidou in Paris, which was an inside-out designed building that exposed air ducts, plumbing, and the architect hand on the outside of the building. 6 It has been said by Hatfield that he was afraid of being fired.6 This new technology pushed boundaries that the Nike team believed to be too far. Looking back, this sneaker has been widely accepted for what it is, pure creative innovation! Such a must have, that in Japan a culture of “Air-Max Hunting” developed. 6

ADIDAS SHELL TOE “FROM BASKETBALL TO HIP-HOP”

As many of the shoes we will read, the Adidas Superstar was manufactured as a basketball sneaker in 1969.7 No longer fitting to the game, it has fallen as a classic lifestyle sneaker to fit the needs of any fashion statement. The shoe is modeled with a leather upper ware and a hard “shell” toe, hence the name. It was originally released as low-top shoe, but soon expanded to introduce a classic high-top feel. It was originally released in an elegant black and white to fit the neutral needs. Other colorways were soon released, and presently has expanded to

include many patterns to fit today’s pop culture. The superstar was one of the first sneakers to have this introduction with music collaborations. Run DMC, a hip-hop group from New York, introduced this shoe in their concerts, making it a signature style.7 They wore the shell toes without laces and pushed the tongues out. In support of the sneaker, they made a song in 1986 called “My Adidas”, also a diss to Jerrald Deas’ song titled “Felon Sneakers”.7 Eventually, Adidas gave them an advertising deal making for the first endorsement deal between hip-hop culture and a major brand. ART OF SOLES 15

PUMA SUEDE “THE INNOVATIVE CLASSIC”

The Puma Suede, a low top sneaker, that experiments with a new material originated in 1968. Suede was the primary material due to the ease of dying techniques.8 This makes for the immense colorways that the sneaker will come to bring. The sneaker is lightweight, comfortable, but unlike the other classics, it was made for leisure. The sneaker is made of clean lines, simple silhouette, and introduced suede as a luxurious feel. The first sneaker was gifted to podium winners of the 1968 Mexico Olympics, specifically Armin Hary, an African American track star.8 This all-time favorite 16

Puma was made for tracksuits and comfortability, we can even stretch to call it “after athletics” fashion. This is thanks to Hary, who to no fault of his own was a non-paid sneaker endorser for the classic shoe.8 The sneaker has stretched to meet stories across the world. From the first time it was introduced to the Olympic civil rights activist, it has grown to include the hip-hop scene and street wear culture. It hasn’t grown out of these scenes and reaches cultures across the world. The true sneakerhead knows that one pair must be obtained to be considered a real collector.

REEBOK CLASSIC “FROM LOW TOP TO HIGH TOP”

Launching in 1983, the Reebok Classic Leather was introduced as a running shoe. It is a part of the Reebok Classic brand that consisted of athletic sneakers born out the 80’s fitness revolution and has evolved into popular lifestyle shoes.9 It was curated in the UK, by a small shoe factory, J.W Fosters and Son (transitioning to the name Reebok in the 50’s).9 Although not as fond as they use to be, they still stand as an elite classic that many sneakerheads have grown up on. The shoe’s simple design, off white leather, and casual feel have taken over globally through the generations.

The sneaker started as a low top classic but has been designed to fit the high top shoe culture. Unlike the low top which has foam soles and leather upper ware, the high top sneaker was built with a better infrastructure. Color dyed and tested the material stretches to cover the ankle and includes a firmer outer sole. The shoe was built with the popular over the velcro straps which were a hit in the 90’s. Some of the first versions of the leather classic, included a tan bubble gum sole and it wasn’t until the high top sneaker that the shoe experimented with color. 9 ART OF SOLES 17

LOW TOP VANS “THE SKATEBOARD SNEAKER”

Many know Vans as the skateboarding culture sneaker, but it has expanded to include a lifestyle of new generations. This casual shoe was designed by brothers Paul Van Doren and Jim Van Doren in California.10 Each branded by number, the evolution of the sneaker did not stray away from its target audience. #95, Era, was the first infamous Van in 1976 with no ornamentation and simple sleek look.10 Guided by a canvas feel, it was prefect for the rugged skateboarder. The shoe then journeys to #36, the Old Skool. This is pictured above and introduces the van side stripe . A new feature 18

of leather (and in new generations suede) played a part in advancing the durability of the sneaker. The Classic Slip on Van was also introduced and not only worn by Skateboarders but BMX riders. This design appropriately helped with ease of laces, but also appealed to the disability community. Lastly, it wasn’t until 1978, that the Sk8-Hi, high top Vans were introduced.10 In this time it helped skateboarders protect their ankles during their antics. The Van’s popularity makes it one of the most affordable casual sneakers on the market today.

NEW BALANCE 574 “FROM PERFORMANCE TO CASUAL”

From a performance to an everyday wear sneaker, the New Balance 574 came along in 1988.11 Known as the Classic New balance, it a low-top suede, mesh, and plastic composition built to perform on any terrain. It was introduced as a gray toned shoe and has since been provided in many new colorways. New Balance, the multinational corporation, was founded by William Riley who initially focused on building shoes with arch support.11 The 574 was not the first shoe that New Balance had to offer. Many of the popular past designs include the 620, 420, and 670 models. Each didn’t

really change in material make up but had subtle design changes that fit the personality of any sneakerhead. The casual sneaker strays the line between active and street wear, but the evolution of New Balance has not stopped. To be touched on in the next section, New Balance has since catered to the running and athletic needs that they first envisioned. Material make-up and design have changed to breed a more durable and impactful sneaker. The Classics are still a must in any sneakerheads closet, and it should go without saying that they are impacting generations today! ART OF SOLES 19

THE RU 20

UNNER SNEAKERS FOR ACTIVE LIFESTYLES

In this category, Running doesn’t necessarily mean you have to run. These shoes are built with athletic impact in mind and have since evolved from the first debuts of many of the athletic sneakers we touched on in the last section. Showcasing Adidas, Nike, Puma, New Balance, and even Asics, the running sneaker is more than just running. Sneakerheads as

a collective have found that the best shoes teeter the line from athletic needs to casual and lifestyle means. Running sneakers aren’t much about bright colors and trendy styles, but minimalistic looks and comfortable means. These next few pages will take you on a visual journey through the classic and yet popular types of running sneakers featured today! ART OF SOLES 21

ADIDAS NMD “THE NOMAD”

Coined in 2015, Adidas unveiled the NMD. Designed by Nic Galway, NMD is short for Nomad, meaning the shoe combines the old we love with the new technology for shoes today!12 The design pulls from an archive of sneakers such as, the Micro Pacer, Rising Star, and Boston Super. Inspired by movement, the shoe is built with the light weight knit material and encompasses a new casual fashion sense. The soles of the shoes introduced Boost technology. Employed by Adidas, Boost midsoles allow for flexibility, stability and comfort.12 Paired with the 22

Primeknit material it makes for the most comfortable running and lifestyle sneaker on the market. This sneaker introduced in a new generation explores many new colorways and types. New designs include some with laces, slip ons, high tops, and material differences. Some of which include famous limited edition collaborations for the new generation. BAPE and Pharrell are among a few of the collaborations to hit the scene and blow the market away. A competitor to the Nike scene, these sneakers are made to break the standard for running/athletic shoes.

ADIDAS ULTRABOOST “INTRODUCING THE BOOST”

The Adidas Ultra-boost was born out the 2015 footwear flux.13 Just like the NMD it is based on developing new technology to foster an amazing running shoe. More for running and less for casual need, this sneaker takes on the BOOST sole for squishy yet sturdy feeling. The shoe was the first, before the NMD, to intuitively embed the boost technology, comparatively the same technology used by NASA to test space shuttles.13 The Ultraboost incorporates the flexible primeknit upper for a lightweight and breathable active sneaker. The sneaker also introduces a lace

cage design for the perfect lace up, which over its evolution will change and in some models disappear. The shoe includes many colorways sponsored by many artist and designers, most famously Kanye West. Another music and sneaker collaboration, the artist began wearing the sneakers to his concerts. His fondness of the brand led to the development of his own sponsored sneaker, the Adidas Yeezy. Although not the Ultraboost, the Boost technology was still introduced within the Yeezy and many of the newer shoes to come. The Ultraboost was the blueprint. ART OF SOLES 23

NIKE VAPORMAX “AIR TECHNOLOGY ON A NEW LEVEL ”

As we remember the Nike Air Max One, it is without a doubt that the Nike VaporMax takes the technology to a new level. With over 30 years in the air cushion development, it introduces this shoe with full “promise of air”.14 As many running shoes it institutes a lightweight, cushion built soles, made with a walking on bubbles look. The soles remains transparent and includes double layers for a sense of support and durability. It seems that the technology of many of the new generation of sneakers is using the primeknit 24

technology. This making the shoe more flexible than ever. At this time the previous motto of “walking on air” has doubled down in it’s meaning. Although made for running, many sneakerheads still seek the shoe as merely casual streetwear. The comfortability it brings not only for athletics, but purely walking makes for timely advancements. Although the first feature of the Vapormax is innovative in itself, the shoe continually introduces something new. Many changes have included the use of recycled knit upperware and slip on designs.

AIR MAX 2090 “THE SHOE OF THE FUTURE”

Releasing 30 years after the Air Max 90, the Air Max 2090 is a futuristic refined version of the 90’s shoe that old sneakerheads love. Fit for the new generation, the design on the shoe imitates a futuristic technology with a combination of leather and mesh for a lightweight sneaker. The play on the material calls for a look into reflective lights, almost like headlights on a futuristic car. Combined with the reflective colorways produced by Dylan Raasch, they are hitting on the future of trainer design.15 The design keeps the window treatment of the bubble system, as the sole

was built for the idea of speed and durability. “The Air Max 2090 has 200 per cent more air than the Air Max 90, which helps us get ever closer to our ultimate goal of creating the sensation of walking on air.” 15 Although the impact from the Air Max 90 and 2090 is clearly distinctive, it seems the curators kept in mind a great deal about the new generation and the impact Nike Air has on athletic shoes.

ART OF SOLES 25

NIKE SOCK DART “THE SHOE WITH MORE THROUGH LESS”

Curated by Nike innovator Tinker Hatfield, the Nike Sock Dart took to new innovation to curate what started the sock knit technology. Coming in around the time of the Nike Presto, which is also an innovative lightweight running shoe, the Sock Dart resembles the new age of free thinking and minimal design in the sneaker world.16 The design worked around a prototype theory of using an actual sock to curate a glove fitting shoe made for any impact.16 Although the “sock” feel is there, the shoe incorporates computerized knitting process to lock down the shape and form of the 26

amazing new shoe.16 Refreshing is out of the category, as the sneaker, released in limited colors, hit the stores in 2004. Although it seems fairly old to us now, it was breaking free of the sneakers that we know. The sneaker reintroduces a slip on feel, with a new take on a secure feeling. The silicone strap that crosses the top of the foot locks in like buttons. As an athletic sneaker the Sock Dart has made it’s way into many closets of the sneakerhead culture due to its minimal style and amazingly casual feel.

NB XR-RACER

“COMBINING PERFORMANCE AND LIFESTYLE” New Balance was always curated for performance, but it seems during this time the known “dad sneaker” regains popularity as a unique technical training shoe. With it’s thick sole, curvy toe feel and design the XRRacer combines performance and lifestyle. The chunky X-90 takes inspiration from the famous 99x series, the newfangled X-Racer honors the NB’s lesser-known ’90s models, incorporating their design elements into its streamlined silhouette.17 The sneaker is designed with a jogging wedge curated sole with a mesh and suede upper combination. The shoe has been released

in many colorways and takes us back to the 90’s with its reflective panel colors and design. One of it’s most popular colorways includes teal, purple and white.17 Sneakerheads alike flock to this shoe for durability and comfort. Perfect for vacations, exercise, and casual wear the XR- Racer does a lot for the community as the design, like many, takes on a futuristic approach.

ART OF SOLES 27

PUMA RS-X “THE 90’S RE-IMAGINED”

Puma takes a deep dive into their Running System (RS) line with a new look for the generation. Their RS line was curated in the 90’s and uses the old technology to emphasize the new, the RS-X series was born. “The original RS (for Running System) was a cushioning technology introduced by PUMA in 1986 with the RS-100. It was a state-of-the-art performance running shoe with the goal of delivering comfortable running experience paired with high-tech stability.” 18 This shoe incorporates a bulky sneaker design, with multiple material uses, and bright retro colorways. 28

This line was inspired by the idea of toys.18 The build uses mesh and leather in a futuristic design to give the iconic feel of the toys that many use to love. One of the infamous colorways is the primary red, yellow, and blue; colors used in toys of the 90’s. It seems a common theme of the running shoes during this time is comfort and taking a look into futuristic styles. The shoe includes a comforting mesh tongue, a cool toy inspired heel, and the quality interior cushion. The shoe meshes the lifestyle sneakers we love and the athletic feel that we need for everyday durability.

ASICS GEL “BUILT TO RUN”

Asics, a Toyko based shoe company, is well know for it’s need to commit to performance. Typically their design is built for running terrain and in many cases do not qualify as a casual sneaker. Known as the “dad” sneaker, Gel Kayano series was established in the late 90’s by Toshikazu Kayano, who was looking to create a cutting edge running shoe.19 In an effort of evolution the Gel Kayono series produced 25 models of effortlessly impactful and differentiating looks. In focusing on Model 25, their latest model, it takes away the bulky feel and design from previous models

and implements the technology of shoes today. The upper material is lightweight, breathable, an high resilient look to an athletic need. The soles are durable, and include a new material called Flytefoam.19 This gives better ground traction, more lift, and a lighter stance. In an effort to increase the sole durability they have even made it wider than previous models.19 Like many running sneakers the Model 25 of the Gel Kayano plays with bright neon colorways that are hard to miss. Even though this shoe may not be on average sneakerheads radar, it is great to look into for athletic needs. ART OF SOLES 29

THE JO 30

ORDAN SNEAKERS FOR SPORT AND LIFESTYLE

In this category, we will acknowledge one of the most versatile and well known sneaker lines in the world. Curated for the Hall of Fame basketball player Michael Jordan, the Jordan brand went public in 1985. Designed by Peter Moore, Tinker Hatfield, and Bruce Kilgore, their debut to the world struck the hearts of sneaker lovers. 20 Originally made for the game of basketball, the

shoe has transformed into an iconic lifestyle sneaker over the generations. The Jordan has 33 models, each with unique look, feel and impact. In this section we will cover the first 12 models, which currently take the sneaker wave by storm. In an effort to pay homage to the sneaker that has changed the sneaker game forever, we will go on a timeless visual journey. ART OF SOLES 31

AIR JORDAN I “THE RETRO 1 DEBUT”

The start of it all. The Air Jordan One originally made for Michael Jordan during his time on the Chicago Bulls, took the star player to new heights. He signed a contract with Nike before he could start his professional career and ended up making some of the most iconic sneakers. 21 The original make of the Air Jordan was banned by the NBA due to it not meeting the requirements for uniforms and color. 22 The shoe released in a red and black colorway and was retracted because it did not have enough white. To this day, sneakerheads of the world have tried to get 32

there hands on the original release of the ‘Chicago’. The Air Jordan One was the first and only shoe to use the Nike swoosh logo, combined with the Air Jordan logo and Nike Air tag to give the shoe full depth. The shoe combines full leather upperware, some of these versions playing with suede, and come in many infamous colorways. The Retro 1, as it’s sometimes called, is one the sneakers that has helped the sneaker stream change over the years with popularity, limited edition releases , and has even caused violence in the community. A mere favorite, the Retro 1 is timeless.

AIR JORDAN II “THE OLD SKOOL”

A hard act to the follow, the Air Jordan II was released in 1896 after the popularity of the Retro 1 took its tool. Michael Jordan was no longer in his bubble, but began making an impact to many other countries. The Air Jordan II took to a whole new look. The new shoe was made and released in Italy, the first and last of the Jordan series to be made and released in another country. 23 The sneaker included the high top we love, with a sportier look due to the design of lines and bulkier shape. The upper mixes leather and

faux lizard skin to give the shoe some impromptu luxury. This use of lizard skin would introduce some fire to the next Jordan III release. 21 Although the Air Jordan II brings some new flavor to the world, it is not as popular in this generation of sneakerheads. At this time many “older” sneakerheads gravitate towards this shoe due to its older look and feel. This is definitely known to be a shoe of the Retro series! The shoe released in many colorways, but is known for it’s impact with a vibrant white upper with design hints of red and black. ART OF SOLES 33

AIR JORDAN III “INTRODUCING LUXURY”

The Air Jordan III made way for an increased debut for Michael Jordan. During this season the ad campaigns picked up and the heat of the III introduced something new. Released in 1988 the shoe focused on building something different. Lead designer Hatfield, increased his intuition in making the basketball sneaker fit luxury!24 The design of the shoe introduces faux lizard skin and incorporates a new elephant print design on the heel and toe. This elephant print design paved the way for the rest of the series to come. The sneakerhead’s have used this print in any and all apparel, looking for 34

someway to match their clothing with their shoe styles. At this time the Retro III welcomes a low top look and feel to the Jordan series. It included what we know now as the Jumpman logo, which is silhouette of Jordan dunking a basketball from a 1985 poster. 25 This is the first time the jumpman logo would be introduced and acts a staple for the rest of the series. Lastly the shoe ushers in the Nike technology by including the Air-soles within the heel and sole of the sneaker. This technology was a great advancement for the basketball community.

AIR JORDAN IV “INTRODUCING LOW TOP NUBUCK”

The Air Jordan IV, or Retro 4, as many like to call them, incorporated some of the same technical aspects of the Jordan III, but introduced some new design aspects. A prime change was the use of Nubuck. This is similar to a suede material and has been used on many shoes such as the Timberland boot. 26 The shoe includes small plastic lace cages for lace tie up support, a heel tab that reads Nike Air, and it incorporates a padded tongue which holds the jumpman logo. Given the scope of the shoe the Jumpman logo incorporates the word ‘flight’, due to

it’s new material technology and continual use of the Air-sole. 27 The shoe also makes for a new mesh overlay, making for a more breathable basketball material. The Retro 4 is one of the many popular sneakers brought to light. It keeps the low top feeling of the Jordan III and adds a new sporty feel. Given the shoes design it is easy to see this as a casual streetwear sneaker over the athletic build that Tinker Hatfeild was going for. The colorways of the Retro 4 have accommodated many generations.

ART OF SOLES 35

AIR JORDAN V “SHAKING UP THE COLORWAY”

For the Air Jordan V, released in 1990, we return back to the style of the hightop. During this point in Michael Jordan’s career, his determination on the court was prominent and it needed to be seen within his shoes. The design direction that Hatfield incorporated included a daring and more aggressive look. 28 The design of the shoe introduced a rugged look. Hatfield combined a striking electric design onto the sole of the shoe to reflect the attitude of the game. 29 The Retro 5 still introduces the air sole from the Air Jordan III and ties in the mesh upper used in the Air Jordan IV. In 36

new aspects, the shoe includes a reflective foam tongue with the jumpman logo. The laces introduce a new lace lock mechanism, to help with lace security during active times. Lastly, a fond part of the sneaker includes a offset high top design. The tapered portion was made for ankle coverage , but to include a sense of flexibility for the players needs.30 As some new features arose in the Retro 5, so did colorways. This shoe was the first to play with color inside the NBA scene. It popularized the purple, emerald, and white colorway that many of the Jordan sneakers in the series soon incorporated.

AIR JORDAN VI “FROM LEATHER TO SUEDE”

Many believe the Air Jordan VI is a staple in the history of sneakers. It was introduced by Michael Jordan in 1991 during the Chicago Bulls first championship game. 31 The shoe caught eyes for it’s new innovative design incorporating originally an all leather upper, but expanded to include an all suede upper. The shoe takes from many of the others in the series with a tapered high top feel, shoe lace lock, and icy sole which is taken from the Air Jordan V. The back of the sneaker includes an embroidered number 23, representing Jordan’s jersey number.

The design of the shoe begins to include new elements such as a plastic tongue with finger loops, a pullable heel tab, and a sock like inside making for a snug and tight feel. The design takes on a slimmer look for a more athletic tone. Although the shoe finds a greater meaning in the basketball world, it began to venture out. The shoe made way to tv shows such as Seinfeld and expanded to celebrity endorsement during the 2000 Summers Olympic Games. 31

ART OF SOLES 37

AIR JORDAN VII “THE LIGHEST BASKETBALL SNEAKER”

With the popularity of the Air Jordan VI, Designer Tinker Hatfield had to out design his last. The Air Jordan VII takes on some similarities of the Retro VI with the same slim look and tapered feel. The design takes inspiration from West African Tribal art with unique sharp lines along the sole of the sneaker. 32 The sneaker introduced a new Huarache technology, inner soles working similar to the air max technology that master comfort and fit. This made the Air Jordan VII one of the lightest basketball sneakers of its time. 33 The shoe begins to neglect the old styles of an 38

icy bottom and air max bubble sole. It takes away the Nike sign, and makes the word ‘Jordan’ stand out on the tongue. Extremely light and fitting like a glove the new design makes for a prominent new adventure to the Jordan line. As for the spark of something new, Michael’s collaborations with this shoe took a new turn. Many know his famous movie Space Jam, and it wasn’t too long before the movie was produced that Michael’s ads began to include Bugs Bunny. 34 In lieu of marketing and promotion, the ads began to show Michael and Bugs Bunny together wearing the Air Jordan VII. 35

AIR JORDAN VIII “THE FUTURISTIC LOOK”

With each design, comes new changes. The Air Jordan VIII makes way for a similar model of the Retro VII, but uses some new and interesting looks. We have grown to encompass the lightweight feel, but Tinker Hatfield chooses a heavier style. 36 Releasing in 1993, we gain a new shoe with the same Huarache technology. This technology allowed for the inside sock design for the emphasis on comfort even with a heavier shoe style. The design of the shoe introduces splashes of color alongside the heel and sole of the sneaker. In lieu of a futuristic style, the Air Jordan VIII’s unique feature is the

cross strap over the laces. The strap wraps around the heel of the shoe making for a nice use of adjustment and lace security. The padded tongue of the shoe introduces a carpet texture badge logo of the jumpman symbol. This is the first and last time this would be featured among the Jordan line. 37 The sneaker released in three colorways, and two produced in suede for a new look. The shoes sold out almost immediately.

ART OF SOLES 39

AIR JORDAN IX “THE AIR JORDAN WITHOUT JORDAN”

The Air Jordan IX, was the first sneaker to release without Michael Jordan on the court. His October 1993 retirement shook the industry, but the sneaker movement must live on. 38 To feature the Jordan IX endorsements began with players like Penny Hardaway, Kendall Gill, and even high school player Lebron James. 39 Ironically the shoe would be featured on the Michael Jordan statue outside of the United Center in Chicago. 40 The design of the shoe features a more simplistic style. It includes mesh, nubuck, and a leather upper, showing off a reflective material 40

a few of the released colorways. The inside still integrates the sock technology used previously in the Air Jordan VII and VIII for comfortability. As for a new feature, the sneaker debuts a one pull lace system for simple lace up on the court. Jordan was known globally and it was time to start integrating that into his sneakers. The heel tag includes a jumpman symbol within a globe illustration. The bottom sole of the shoe features words in many languages to symbolize Jordan’s popularity globally.41

AIR JORDAN X “THE SIMPLISTIC DEDICATION”

The Jordan began to return to a simplistic style with the Air Jordan X in 1994. The design included a clean leather upper, lightweight cushion insoles, and a look into a commemorative design along the bottom soles.42 The original version of the shoe has stitched toe, to which drastically changed to a clean and concise look when Jordan was not satisfied with it. 43 Hatfield included a tab heel to pull in initial try on and introduced a elastic lace system. The cushion of the sole is thanks to Phylon technology introduced by Nike. 44 With a great midsole, came a dedicated bottom

sole. Stripes criss cross back and forth alongside the bottom and include Jordan’s career achievements alternating within each stripe. 45 If that isn’t a dedication to his sneaker brand, we don’t know what is. The Jordan X is one of th most popular shoes to debut, especially due to the first colorways released. Each color represented 5 NBA teams, Chicago, Sacramento, Seattle, New York and Orlando. The ‘Chicago’ is one of the most popular colorways to find today and is selling for hundreds online.

ART OF SOLES 41

AIR JORDAN XI “PERFORMANCE AND INNOVATION”

Released in 1995, The Air Jordan XI is one of the most loved and sought after Jordan. Another simple yet impactful shoe, Hatfield looked to combine performance and innovation. 46 “As a studier of the basketball regime, Hatfield noticed that during Michael’s games his foot would roll off the bedding, making for a lean in the shoe. It is with this study that Hatfield introduces patent leather to the upper of the shoe.” 47 It also combines a mesh and nylon material and a padded ankle and tongue for comfort. The sneaker brings back the icy bottom soles that many sneakerheads 42

love and commits to the Air sole technology, but includes it in full length instead of “air pockets”. The design of this shoe is unmatched. Coming in a high top make, the shoe also later introduces a low top design. Michael had a desire for the shoe to be worn with a suit, simple and elegant. 48 It is still worn this way today! Clean design and many colorways, the XI is one Jordan that a sneakerhead needs. Two of the most popular colorways to release were the ‘Concords’ and ‘Space Jams’, this colorway of the sneaker was worn by Michael in the film Space Jam!

AIR JORDAN XII “RISE OF THE FLU GAME ”

Hatfield was inspired to create something new with the Air Jordan XII. This new look was inspired by the Japanese flag. 49 The simple and clean feel of the shoe resembled a rising sun with the ray of lines used in the design. The sneakers materials included a leather upper and faux reptile leather along the toe. The tongue included the jumpman logo and along the heel tab of the shoe it screamed “Quality Inspired by the Greatest Player Ever.” 50 One of the most durable shoes of the series, the Jordan XII introduces Zoom Air technology for a light feel and ultra support.

The Jordan released in 5 colorways, and one of the most popular being the “Flu Games”. Coming in black and red, this colorways got its name when Jordan played through the Flu during a game in 1997, making for one of his best games yet. 51 This colorway is one of the most sought after, including the sleek black and white colorway, the “Taxi.” The shoe re-released in more colors in 2003. Although it remains popular the Air Jordan XII is also a lifestyle must have in the sneakerhead closet.

ART OF SOLES 43

SNEAKE 44

KER TIPS TIME TO LEARN THE SNEAKER GAME How much do you know about me?

In this category, we will discover the most successful and needed tips for those starting out or refreshers to veterans in the sneakerhead game! Sneakers can be a handful and its best you learn to take care of them sooner than later before they become beaters. These tips will help lead you in a new direction and even give you the push to look up new things yourself. In this

section we will discuss tips from sneaker anatomy down to how to clean and upkeep your sneakers. If you thought being a sneakerhead was a hassle, just from a buying stand point, then you have much more that you should know for the long run. The sneaker game will continually change but these tips will last for a long time. ART OF SOLES 45

SNEAKER ANATOMY 2 1

7 3

13 14

TOE TIP

EYESTAYS

OUTER SOLE

QUARTER

MUDGUARD

TOE BOX/ VAMP

MIDSOLE

COLLAR LINING

TONGUE ATTACHMENT

HEEL NOTCH

SHOELACE

HEEL TAB

LOGO

TONGUE

GENERAL TERMS: UPPER, INSOLE, MIDSOLE, OUTER SOLE ART OF SOLES 47

Use a dry brush to scrub dirt off the outside of the shoe. No shoe brush? No problem—use a dry, soft bristled brush like an old toothbrush. That will work just fine! 52

Create a mild cleaning solution. Mix warm water with a small amount of mild laundry detergent. 53

Clean laces. Take out the laces and apply a small amount of the mild cleaning solution. Massage the laces, rinse, then dry with a soft cloth. If you damage the laces it’s okay- just buy new ones. 54

HOW TO PROPERLY CLEAN YOUR SNEAKERS “THE 6 STEP PROCESS”

Wash soles. Apply the mild cleaning solution to a soft-bristled brush and brush the outside of the shoe. Dry with a washcloth. 55

6 48

Then use a dry microfiber towel or washcloth to dab and lift as much soapy moisture and dirt as possible. Repeat if necessary. Air dry. Set the clean sneakers to air dry at room temperature. 57

Wash and dab lightly. Use the mild cleaning solution you created and your cleaning tool to clean the soles and top part of the shoe. 56

Research. Check sites like Sneakernews, Hypebeast and even brand sites like Nike and Adidas. 58

Raffles. These are In store and online, so it’s important to do step number 1. 59

In store. If you go for this route then you will more than likely be “camping out”. Which means standing in line waiting. The key is get there bright and early, hours before the store opens. 60

SO YOU WANT TO COP A LIMITED RELEASE? “HOW TO STAY UPDATED ON THE LATEST DROPS”

Subscriptions. Signing up for notifications through different shoe websites is your way to go. If you’re an email person this is definitely the way to go! 61

Making accounts through apps. SNKRS, Finishline, footlocker, champs, Footaction, and etc. For example the SNKRS app notifies the day before something releases. 62

Resellers. Although this may be a last resort, it is a great fall back option. The shoe may end up being sold to you for greater than retail price, but they must make a profit. 63 ART OF SOLES 49

GENERAL THE DO’S

Clean sneakers as soon as they get dirt on them.

Store shoes in a dark places, light can cause yellowing, which then can devalue the shoe.

Attempt to fix creases with a steam iron.

Stinky feet? Leaving tea bag in shoes overnight can help rid the smell.

Buy sneakers you can afford and like, don’t buy just to show off.

Gum on the sole of your shoe? Rub an ice cube over the gum until it hardens then peel the gum off easily.

Spray a protective shoe cleaner on shoes before wearing them. Can help clean shoes easily.

Spray a protective shoe cleaner on shoes before wearing them. It can help clean shoes easily.

SHOE TIPS THE DO NOT’S

Don’t put shoes in the washer or the dryer.

Don’t waddle like a duck just to prevent creasing your shoes.

Don’t use harsh cleaning products like bleach, it can turn your shoes yellow.

Don’t put away your sneakers before putting shoe crease protectors back in the inside.

Don’t store shoes in a cardboard box, store in plastic casing.

Don’t fall victim to the hype. Find the sneaker style you like.

Don’t try to resell way over the retail price, you may be stuck with the shoe.

Don’t keep your shoes deadstock forever. Get a good rotation going.

ART OF SOLES 51

SNEAKER IF THERE’S ONE THING TO KNOW

Aglets: These are the ends of sneaker laces. Usually made of plastic, but sometimes a thicker material, they hold the ends of the shoelaces together. Beaters: Shoes that you wear on any basis that have some wear and tear. You wouldn’t really wear these as fashion, as they are not in the best shape. Boost: A new technology used for the midsoles of Adidas. They help with a lightweight and comfortable feeling Colorway: The colors applied to a sneaker. Many colorways are named, this is particularly found in the Jordan line of sneakers Cop: When you end up buying a pair a sneakers. You typically say, “I just copped…..” Deadstock (DS): This refers to sneakers that are usually not worn or brought. Fire: When you think something is fly and cool. Sneakerheads typically say, “That shoe is fire.”

Flaking: When someone breaks their deal in buying a sneaker. Flip-flop: This refers to someone who typically doesn’t like the sneakers before they release, but says they are fire when seen on the shelf. General Release: This is usually a sneaker that stays stocked in retail. There’s not special occasion or limited release. The shoe may come in all sizes and many colors. GOAT: This stands for the “greatest of all time”. It was first used for those like Michael Jordan. This is also the name of sneaker reselling website. Grails: These sneakers are the most popular. They are frequently limited editions and very expensive. GS: This is an abbreviation for “grade school.” These are sneakers with childrens sizes. They range from a 3Y-7Y. Heat: Sneakers that are cool. This is another word that can be used like “fire.” A typical sneaker sentence would be, “ I copped some heat.”

GLOSSARY THESE TERMS WILL MAKE YOU A PRO High Top: This is the tall version of the sneakers. Usually the ‘upper’ covers the ankle. This was made for support when shoes were a source for athletes before casual wear.

KD: A nickname for Kevin Durant’s. A line of sneakers produced by Nike

Hypebeast: People that want sneakers for the hype. Typically they chase after that hot release because people say it’s cool, even if they don’t like them. A follower in a sense.

LBJ: A nickname for the Lebron James. A line of sneakers produced by Nike.

Kicks: Another word for sneakers or shoes.

Limited Edition (LE): Sneakers that release very rarely and in a limited number of sizes.

Hyperstrike: These are very limited edition sneakers that are dropped without much warning. Many have camped out or stayed up overnight just to catch this sneaker.

Lows: This is an addition of an sneaker that usually falls below ankle. This is the typical make of any sneaker.

Instacop: When a shoe is so fire that you go to buy it immediately. You instantly copped it.

Mids: The make of sneakers that fall right at the ankle. It’s not liked by many, because they don’t give off the same feel and style of the high top. They are, as some call, the “knock-off” version of a high top.

Jumpman: This is the silhouette logo of Michael Jordan found on many of the Jordan line sneakers. This logo was founded by Peter Moore. J’s: A nickname for Jordan’s. The line of sneakers produced by Nike.

NDC: This is short for Nike.com… (nike dot com). With new generations come many abbreviations, and although this may seem kind of unnecessary, it is essential to the newer sneakerhead generation.

ART OF SOLES 53

NIB/BNIB: These are shoes that are ‘New In Box’ or ‘Brand New In Box’. This qualifies as a sneaker fresh in the box, not touched. You may be straddling the line if you have taken them out of the box even if you haven’t worn them.

Retro: These are the re-releases of throwback sneakers. You will see that many of the Jordan releases we know today are called Retro, because they already released back in the 90’s and early 2000’s. This sneaker is typically in high demand when it is time for release.

OG’s: Originals! These are sneakers when first released. These are not Retros!

Sample: Many know of a sample a taste of what’s to come. This is the same for the sneaker. Factories typically make samples to get a sense of the design and feel of a sneaker that may end up being released.

On Ice: A sneaker that you may be saving to wear for a special occasion or at certain time. Player’s Edition: These are sneakers typically released for a certain player and are typically limited edition. An example would be the Ray Allen Air Jordan XIII’s. Player Exclusives: These sneakers are strictly made for and worn by athletes. PS: This is an abbreviation to Pre-school. These sizes are usually for toddler and younger children. Quickstrike (QS): This was used on boxes in the early 2000’s to let you know that sneakers was quick and limited edition release. Rumors are easier to find for these sneakers now given the Internet. Reseller: This is someone who buys sneakers with the intent to resell them (initially at higher price than sold for in retail). They typically by the sneakers in bulk from a warehouse. If there’s one person other than factories that make it hard to cop sneakers, they are it! Restock: When a sneaker sells out from the original release, due to demand they may re-release. This is normal in retail if they have more stock than usual.

SB: A shorthand for skateboarding. These are sneakers released for skateboarders, but are not limited to skateboarders. Size Run: This just entails the amount of sneakers retail or a reseller may have in each size. Sometimes when things are limited release, each retail store can have as low as one sneaker per size. Special Edition: Sneakers usually are released in a special colorway or at a certain time for a special occasion. Tonal: Sneakers that are made in one color. This can be multiple shades of one color or all one color. Ultraboost: A midsole technology used in Adidas, that combine Boost technology with a primeknit upper. This was curated used NASA technology. VND: This stands for ‘Very Near Deadstock’. These are sneakers that may have been worn slightly, maybe even tried on briefly, but are still pass as deadstock. White on White: Another name for the Air Force 1’s, this a name commonly used for sneakers that are all white.

ENDNOTE SOURCES 1

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Wikipedia contributors. (2021, March 17). Air Force (shoe). Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/

Air_Force_(shoe)#cite_note-MercuryNews1-1 5

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Danworth, C. (2021). Running on Air: A History of Nike Air Max. GOAT. https://www.goat.com/edito-

rial/nike-air-max-sneakers-history 7

Charlton, R. (2018, August 1). The Story Behind: Adidas Superstar. Mainline Menswear Blog (UK).

https://www.mainlinemenswear.co.uk/blog/2014/the-story-behind-adidas-superstar 8

Soar, K. (2020, December 11). Why The PUMA Suede is a Sneaker For All Time. Highsnobiety.

https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/puma-suede-history-lookbook/ 9

S. (2016, April 18). The Almost Definitive History of Reebok Classics. Ssense. https://www.ssense.

com/en-us/editorial/fashion/the-almost-definitive-history-of-reebok-classics 10

vans. (n.d.). History. Retrieved April 19, 2021, from https://www.vans.com/history.html#2017

New Balance: Brand History, Philosophy, and Iconic Products. (2019, July 25). Heddels. https://

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The Evolution of the adidas NMD. (n.d.). Sneaker Freaker. Retrieved April 19, 2021, from https://

www.sneakerfreaker.com/features/the-evolution-of-the-adidas-nmd 13

Reyes, A. (2020, March 7). A short history of the adidas UltraBoost. Spin.Ph. https://www.spin.ph/

life/active-lifestyle/a-history-of-the-adidas-ultraboost-a1244-20200307 ART OF SOLES 55

Nike Air VaporMax Reveals the Pinnacle of Air. (n.d.). Nike News. Retrieved April 19, 2021, from

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Ravenscroft, T. (2020, April 16). Nike designs Air Max 2090 to be “shoe of the future.” Dezeen.

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S. (2016b, July 6). The Story Behind the Nike Sock Dart - size? blog. Size? Blog. https://blog.size.

co.uk/2016/07/06/a-brief-history-nike-sock-dart/ 17

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Engvall, N. (2020, May 8). Today In Sneaker History: Michael Jordan Debuts the Nike Air Jordan.

Sneaker History - Podcast, News, Merch, and Culture. https://sneakerhistory.com/2015/11/17/today-insneaker-history-michael-jordan-debuts-the-nike-air-jordan/ 21-51 footlocker.eu. (n.d.). Footlocker. Retrieved April 19, 2021, from https://www.footlocker.eu/gdpr 52-57 How Do I Clean My Shoes? | Nike Help. (n.d.). Nike. Retrieved April 21, 2021, from https://www.nike. com/help/a/how-to-clean-shoes 58-63 G. (2016a, August 22). How to Cop Limited Edition/Rare Sneakers. Gallucks. https://gallucks.com/ cop-limited-edition-rare-sneakers/

This book is dedicated to sneakerheads of the world. The art of soles remain alive when we educate others about the culture we love. - Thank you!

ART OF SOLES 57

You love sneakers, you appreciate the colors, the necessity, and the artistic expression behind them. This book is just right for the sneakerhead and the aspiring one. Asia Jordan, a graphic design major at George Mason University, has brought to you effective illustration and photography through the lens of her own closet. The book details history, sneaker collections, and some tips for the average sneaker collector. Her depictions of the some of the most popular sneakers may leave you ready to search the internet. Use this book as an exploration to discover and maybe even uncover your love for sneakers.