Winter 2010

AWARD WINNING MAGAZINE

THE ICE

IS RIGHT Learn to love the winter hills

The extraordinary life of the Atlantic salmon

ROCKS IN A HARD PLACE Walking Jura’s unforgiving West Coast

LESLEY MCKENNA

Leading the charge for women’s snowboarding

PLUS: Explore Deeside • Great Glen Yurts • Win a winter skills course in Torridon

www.scotoutdoors.com

Winter 2010 £3.80

TO THE SEA AND BACK

ads_cover ads 29/11/2010 16:50 Page 2

WaterAid

Corbett Challenge

2011

Conquer a mountain for WaterAid! Saturday 11 June

Photo: Andy Bagworth

Take up WaterAid’s Corbett Challenge! We aim to have a team of walkers at the summit of all 312 peaks between 2,500-3,000 feet in England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland between 11am and 3pm on Saturday 11 June.

It’s free to enter – you just need a team of four to seven people, each person committed to raising over £100 to help us achieve our £300,000 target.

www.wateraidcorbettchallenge.org corbettchallenge@wateraid.org 020 7793 2232 WaterAid transforms lives by improving access to safe water, hygiene and sanitation in the world’s poorest communities.

WaterAid Corbett Challenge 2011, WaterAid, 47-49 Durham Street, London SE11 5JD Registered charity numbers 288701 (England and Wales) and SC039479 (Scotland)

Media partner for the Corbett Challenge 2011.

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WELCOME

A word from the editor

ooking out of the window as I write this, I have to remind myself that it’s only November. And yet, here in the Borders at least, the snow already lies heavy on the ground. Further north, it’s even worse – or better, depending on how you look at it. While snow and ice is the bugbear of many a commuter, it’s the lifeblood for those who work in winter mountain sports.

Last winter, Scotland’s ski centres – for so long operating on the margins of profitability – enjoyed the best season for a generation. Remarkably, the last day of skiing with mechanised uplift at Cairngorm Mountain was in late-June.

Skiers were back at it again in good numbers this month.

The surge in the number of skiers and boarders during the traditionally quieter winter months, of course, provides a timely economic boost not just for the ski centres, but also local accommodation, restaurants and shops. In these straitened times, such additional business will be very welcome.

Meanwhile, walkers, mountaineers and climbers will also be able to enjoy a time of year when, for many, the Scottish mountains are at their very best. Of course, they are no place for the uninitiated and it pays to know what you are doing. Fortunately, Scotland is blessed with a variety of organisations and individual instructors that can teach the skills that will give you the confidence and knowledge to explore the winter mountains under your own steam.

Turn to page 52 to read how one winter novice got her snow legs in Torridon. And whatever your level of experience, a look at the short piece on avalanche awareness by Glenmore Lodge’s Nigel Williams on page 64 is also recommended reading.

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Enjoy the issue (and the winter!)

Richard Rowe Editor, Scotland Outdoors

WINNER Best small publishing company magazine PPA Scotland Awards 2009

Torridon p52

Insh Marshes p4 Nevis Range p20

Ballater

EXP EXPLORE DEESIDE DEE

Scotland Outdoors online Aberdeen

You can find our website at www.scotoutdoors.com From p41

Banchory

Look out for special online features and sign up for our e-newsletter to receive regular updates

Join us on Facebook and tell your friends! www.tinyurl.com/somagfb Isle of Jura p34

You can also follow us on twitter www.twitter.com/scotoutdoors

PHOTOGRAPHY: COVER: CLIMBERS ON THE EAST END OF BEINN EIGHE, TORRIDON, JIM SUTHERLAND ABOVE LEFT: LECHT 2090

Scotland Outdoors Winter 2010

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CONTENTS

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Contributors

Jeff Starkey

Lesley McKenna

As head of the Nevis Range Ski Patrol team, Jeff Starkey spends his days on the slopes, but the job is not always as enviable as it sounds.

As he explains, the winter months involve long days as the team works to keep the resort running smoothly. Day in the life, p20

A triple Olympian and hugely influential figure in women’s snowboarding, Lesley McKenna has competed at the elite level of her sport for more than a decade. Here, she reflects on competing, coaching and keeping up with the Baxters.

Outdoor passions, p24

CONTENTS PHOTOGRAPHY: NEVIS RANGE; EUANB.COM; PETER EDWARDS; JIM SUTHERLAND; KEITH RINGLAND; RICHARD SHUCKSWORTH; PETER CAIRNS; ROYAL DEESIDE DMO; LEE MCCANDLISH

Peter Edwards

Ellen Homewood

As the author of a new walking guide to Jura, Islay and Colonsay, Peter Edwards is accustomed to battling through the elements.

However, even he found it tough going when trekking with friends along Jura’s unforgiving west coast.

When the wind blows, p34

Eager to add winter mountain walking to her outdoor repertoire, keen hill runner Ellen Homewood signed up for a weekend of winter skills training in Torridon – an experience that has opened up a whole new season of adventure.

Learning the ropes, p52

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The Scotland Outdoors team Editor: Richard Rowe t 01721 729876 e richard@scotoutdoors.com Associate Editor: Ida Maspero t 0131 538 0348 e ida@scotoutdoors.com Copy Editor: Ruth Noble Editorial Board: Nick Williams, Chris Surgenor, Charlotte Manwaring, Andy Ross Advertising sales: Alison Fraser t 0141 946 8708 e alison@scotoutdoors.com Design & Production: CMYK Design e production@scotoutdoors.com w cmyk-design.co.uk

copies at high-quality accommodation providers; Green Tourism Business Scheme and Wild Scotland members; leading wildlife and adventure travel companies; activity and visitor centres; outdoor retailers and other specialist suppliers. For a full list of stockists see: www.scotoutdoors.com ISSN 1757-224X All contents © Big Bend Publishing (2010) This magazine is printed on Claro Silk, which is FSCcertified and produced using ECF pulp.

Subscriptions: Please contact subscriptions@scotoutdoors.com Printing: J Thomson Colour Printers Published by: Big Bend Publishing, 16 Rosetta Road, Peebles, Borders EH45 8JU, Scotland Scotland Outdoors is published quarterly. It is available by subscription and through in-room

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FEATURES CONSERVATION

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Leap of faith

Wild Atlantic salmon may seem abundant in Scottish rivers, but this majestic fish faces unknown perils at sea that could threaten the composition of our salmon stocks. Ida Maspero reports

ADVENTURE When the wind blows

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A wild and geologically rich landscape, the west coast of Jura offers some of the most challenging walking anywhere in Scotland – particularly when the weather turns, discovers Peter Edwards

STEPPING OUT Learning the ropes

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Ellen Homewood preps her snow and ice skills in Torridon ahead of what will hopefully be another spectacular winter walking season

WILDLIFE AND ECOLOGY Food for thought

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Researchers have begun a survey into the diet of harbour seals in an effort to understand a worrying fall in numbers around the Scottish coast. It’s a job for strong stomachs, discovers Richard Rowe

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Burning issue

Ecologist Shaila Rao explains why the removal and burning of dead wood for campfires is not as harmless as you might think

EXPLORE DEESIDE

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Estate of mind

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Down by the Dee

Tucked away on south Deeside, Glen Tanar is home to some of Scotland’s most pristine old Caledonian forest – and a progressive estate that intends to keep it that way, writes Richard Rowe

With Balmoral a central presence, much is made of Deeside’s royal connections, but this quieter side of the Cairngorms also has plenty to offer when it comes to outdoor fun

Scotland Outdoors would like to thank VisitCairngorms.com for the kind assistance with this issue's Explore section Visit our website for additional online features submitted by readers www.scotoutdoors.com

REGULARS

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The big picture Insh Marshes, Strathspey

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Reader adventurers Reader photographs of wild getaways

Eco-view We may not have the exotic animals found elsewhere, but Scotland can still be a big hitter on the world wildlife stage, believes Peter Cairns

News Outdoor news from around Scotland

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Events Get active with our round-up of the best outdoorsy events

Reading Our pick of some of the best new outdoor titles

Competition Win a fantastic winter skills course for two in Torridon

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Outdoor innovations A glance at some of the most innovative new products for Christmas and beyond

Day in the life Jeff Starkey, Ski Patrol Manager, Nevis Range

Board & lodging: Great Glen Yurts, Torlundy We discover the ultimate room with a view in a field outside Fort William

Outdoor passions A triple Olympian and highlyrespected coach, Lesley McKenna has played a major role in the development of women’s snowboarding. Here, she reflects on bumps, bruises and a sport that has very much come of age

Outdoor skills Nigel Williams from Glenmore Lodge explains how to be avalanche-aware this winter

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SCOTLAND •

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Wetland wonder Insh Marshes, Strathspey Stretching along Strathspey from Kingussie to Kincraig, Insh Marshes National Nature Reserve is the most important natural floodplain in Britain – with a spectacular setting between the Cairngorm and Monadhliath mountains.

The area provides nesting and feeding opportunities for hundreds of wading birds and wildfowl as well as a host of other wildlife.

RSPB Scotland manages more than 800 hectares of the reserve, including a diverse patchwork of open water, wetlands and wild flower meadows.

Winter is the time when Insh Marshes can be at its most dramatic; when heavy rainfall coincides with snow melt in the mountains, the River Spey spills out onto the floodplain, covering hundreds of hectares and often ‘moating’ the nearby Ruthven Barracks. The wetland then acts as a giant sponge absorbing and retaining water, helping to prevent communities downstream from flooding.

This regular flooding keeps the floodplain fertile and releases important food resources for wintering wildfowl.

At this time of year, an early morning visit to the reserve’s Invertromie hide can provide views of otters, while an evening stroll around Lynchlaggan may reveal wintering hen harriers coming in to roost in the reedbeds. When whooper swans return from their northern breeding grounds, their bugling calls can be heard echoing around the marshes, while wintering goldeneye, tufted duck, wigeon and teal all feed and roost on nearby Loch Insh.

KAREN SUTCLIFFE

Facilities Open all year. The new Lookout viewing platform has all-abilities access and fantastic views across the reserve. Interpretative panels tell of the ancient landscape and its history.

There are two viewing hides and three woodland nature trails.

Getting there The nearest town is Kingussie, almost a mile’s walk away. The reserve can be reached from the Badenoch Way and the Lochs and Glens Sustrans cycle route. If driving, take the Kingussie exit off the A9 and follow the B970 beyond Ruthven Barracks. The reserve entrance is half a mile or so past the barracks on the left. www.tinyurl.com/inchrspb

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OUTDOOR • ADVENTURERS

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CHECK OUT OUR SELECTION OF THE BEST READER PICTURES SUBMITTED IN RECENT MONTHS

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Who done it?

1 Red grouse at the Lecht ski centre car park, Jacqui Herrington 2 Plockton on the way home to the Midlands, Paul and Fiona TursnerUpcott 3 Late afternoon sun on Cul Mor, Susan Rowe 4 Fishing boat with the Skye Cuillin behind, David Lennard 5 Messing about on Tentsmuir Beach, Larry White 6 Fly agaric, Lila Pilling 7 The Falls of Muick with fish ladder, John Bruce 8 Enjoying a photography workshop on Firemore Beach, Wester Ross, Sheila Westwater 9 About to tackle the Aonach Eagach, Glencoe, Diane McCombie PLEASE KEEP THE PICTURES COMING:

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Show us what you get up to and we will publish the best pictures in our next issue. Just tell us where you are and what you are doing.

Email your high-resolution images to: adventures@scotoutdoors.com

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Scotland Outdoors Winter 2010

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ECO-VIEW • SELLING SCOTLAND’S WILDLIFE

All in the delivery PHOTOGRAPHY: PETER CAIRNS/WWW.NORTHSHOTS.COM

WHEN IT COMES TO NATURE TOURISM, SCOTLAND MAY NOT BE ABLE TO OFFER SOME OF THE EXOTIC ANIMALS FOUND ELSEWHERE, BUT IT CAN STILL BE A BIG HITTER ON THE WORLD WILDLIFE STAGE. IT JUST NEEDS TO GET THE DELIVERY RIGHT, SAYS PETER CAIRNS

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he natural world has always been our supermarket, our fuel station and our gym; but we now want it to provide something else: entertainment. Wildlife has become a commodity and showing people the wonders of the natural world is now a global industry in which Scotland has a major stake. But can we really compete? Can we impress the modern-day traveller who has photographed bears in the Yukon, tracked big cats in Africa and stood amongst thousands of penguins in the southern-most reaches of the planet? Probably not. But therein lies opportunity rather than defeat.

We’re all familiar with the global burger giant – the one that seduces weary motorists with its fluorescent, single-letter flagpole sign. I don’t think even they would claim to offer the discerning diner the most fulfilling culinary experience of their life. And yet this global phenomenon is insanely successful – perhaps in spite of its product, rather than because of it. Why? It’s because the ‘package’ delivers.

The brand answers the question before it’s even asked; it’s consistent and convenient, which goes to show that it’s not always about what you’re selling, but how you wrap it up.

Scotland isn’t the Serengeti or The Everglades; it can never show visitors lions, or alligators.

So what are Scotland’s trump cards? What is its USP? Which species are those that can claim to be truly magnetic?

It starts with context and the blank page onto

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which inspiring wildlife stories unique, species like crested tit, can be written. That blank page Passion play (clockwise capercaillie, red squirrel, Scottish from above left): passionate is Scotland itself – it’s a wild crossbill, ptarmigan, dotterel, guides are worth their place. Now, we can debate the mountain hare and pine marten – all weight in gold; the sea definition of ‘wild’ forever, but species in wildlife-watching demand eagle and red deer – two of Scotland’s main to most visitors, it’s a land of – and the Scottish line-up starts to attractions big forests, big mountains and look pretty impressive. But is it big coastlines. That’s a good start. impressive enough?

Onto that canvas, we can weave in the Well, yes and no. Together this eclectic mix wildlife heroes that represent Scotland’s guild of species can perhaps hold its own on the of charismatic mega-fauna. That list includes global stage, but let’s be honest there are no the bottlenose dolphins of the Moray Firth, polar bears in there. However, there is an the only remaining resident pod in the North elephant – or should that be mountain gorilla?

Sea. The planet’s second largest fish, the – in the room; remember it’s not always basking shark, is now a regular visitor to about the quality of the burger, but how you Scottish waters and these plankton-chomping wrap it up. leviathans are joined each summer by minke I’ve seen fantastic wildlife guides hold their whales and seal-seeking orcas. Our seabird audience spellbound as they explain the colonies are of particular interest to landspectacular sexual appetite of the most obscure locked Europeans, with hotspots such as Bass invertebrate; stalkers wax lyrical over lichens Rock, Handa Island, Hermaness and the and mosses, drawing justifiable comparisons Treshnish Isles favourite destinations for birders with the rainforests of Brazil; I’ve listened to and photographers alike. octogenarian shepherds weave stories of And then there’s the suite of raptors for wildcat encounters that we can only dream of which Scotland is rightly gaining a reputation. today. It’s people – passionate, knowledgeable, Golden eagles in western Scotland breed in magnetic people – who take Scotland’s wildness higher densities than anywhere in their range to a new level and who add the final touches (ditto otters and grey seals). Meanwhile, the to that literary work of art. reintroduced sea eagle is making an economic These are the hidden elements that make claim to fame on Skye and Mull, while ospreys, the package work; compelling stories are the peregrines and red kites all make significant difference between a brief sighting and a contributions to the rural piggy bank. rewarding insight where the visitor is Throw in lesser-known, but domestically entertained, informed and, if the narrator is

Scotland Outdoors Winter 2010

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really good, inspired to boot. Get this bit right and the customer’s appetite is ripened – they will pull in at the next wildlife burger bar; get it wrong and no matter how tasty the relish, the experience is less fulfilling than it should be.

But are we getting it right? In some cases, absolutely, but there are glaring gaps in branding and delivery. Here’s an example.

If Rwanda is known for its mountain gorillas, Brazil for its jaguars and Svalbard its polar bears (the ‘packaging’ in Svalbard is particularly impressive), then surely Scotland is synonymous with red deer. There are reportedly 300,000 of these Scottish icons so they can’t be that difficult to spot, can they? Well, yes, I’d suggest they can. There are precious few places where the casual visitor is welcomed, gets to see red deer in the wild and has their fascinating story passionately delivered by a knowledgeable guide. It’s like the burger bar without the signage.

So, putting Scotland’s mountain gorillas on the world wildlife map needs a bit of innovative fluorescent signage. Google ‘Svalbard’ and you’re met with an unequivocal marketing message: 3,000 bears. 2,500 people. Subtle?

Perhaps not. Effective? Definitely. I’m lovin’ it already. g

Peter Cairns is one of Europe’s leading nature photographers, specialising in the wildlife of northern Europe and our relationship with it. He is based in Glen Feshie, Cairngorms. www.northshots.com

www.scotoutdoors.com

“SHOWING PEOPLE THE WONDERS OF THE NATURAL WORLD IS NOW A GLOBAL INDUSTRY IN WHICH SCOTLAND HAS A MAJOR STAKE”

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PHOTOGRAPH: CAIRNGORM MOUNTAIN RANGER SERVICE

OUTDOOR • NEWS

Building on bike success MOUNTAIN BIKING can be even more of a worldwide success story for Scotland – leading to additional health, economic and sporting benefits – but grass roots development is essential, was the message spelled out at the first ever Developing Mountain Biking conference held in Perth in the autumn.

The conference was organised by the Developing Mountain Biking in Scotland project, established to maximise the potential of one of Scotland’s fastest growing sports. One of the speakers, adventurer Mark Beaumont (pictured), explained how his local cycling roots in Perthshire led to the desire to cycle around the world – a journey captured in a BBC documentary and watched by millions. “The first step in cycling around the world was from the farm where I grew up in the foothills of Glenshee,” he said. “Around the forestry tracks and Perthshire roads, it was a great start and training ground.”

“Mountain biking in Scotland is a massive success story and it can only be improved by highlighting the routes close to where people live,” added Graeme McLean, Developing Mountain Biking in Scotland Project Manager. “To do this, we plan to involve local people and community groups and set up regional development clusters. These will then help local people to identify sustainable routes in their area and promote mountain biking to a wider audience. Grass roots are the frame on which development is built.”

Scotland is now recognised as one of the best destinations in the world for the sport – a point emphasised recently when attendees at the Adventure Travel Trade Association World Summit in Aviemore spent a day riding the purpose-built singletrack at Laggan Wolftrax. Many of the riders had experienced world-class trails in places such as the Yukon, Alaska and Mexico, but the consensus was that Scotland more than held its own. www.developingmountainbikinginscotland.com

Bonnie Corbetts

My cover shot, Jim Sutherland ON THE EAST END OF BEINN EIGHE, TORRIDON I took this photo of two German clients, Anna and Benni, on a traverse of ‘The Black Carls’ of Beinn Eighe … the snow, sunshine and big smiles sum up their day.

By moving a safe distance ahead, but still close enough to coach this confident pair, I was able to capture this lovely shot.

Their ice axes are not visible as they are plunging them deep into the snow to provide a self-belay in the event of a slip. Anna and Benni are fast learners and went on to make the traverse in great style.

www.nineonesix.co.uk

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SCOTLAND OUTDOORS is delighted to be a media partner for the 2011 WaterAid Corbett Challenge – an ambitious UK-wide event that hopes to raise £300,000 for the charity’s work to provide safe water and sanitation in some of the world’s poorest countries.

The event aims to put a team of walkers on the summit of every one of the UK’s 312 Corbetts (peaks between 2,500 and 3,000 feet) between the hours of 11am and 3pm on 11 June. WaterAid is calling for more than 5,000 walkers in teams of four to seven to meet a challenge that, for the first time, will also include all 221 of the Scottish Corbetts.

“By taking on the personal challenge of climbing a Corbett, walkers can enjoy a spectacular day in the British countryside and at the same time help WaterAid give some of the world’s poorest people better access to something many of us take for granted – clean water,” explained Jackie Sedgewick, Regional Development Manager at WaterAid. The event is free to enter, with hills graded according to difficulty, so all you need is a team of people with each person committed to raising over £100 to help the charity achieve its fund-raising target. To choose a hill and register a team, visit www.wateraidcorbettchallenge.org

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Keeping track

Pack it in, pack it out CAIRNGORM MOUNTAIN is asking walkers and skiers planning to snowhole on the high plateau this winter to ensure that they leave the mountains as pristine as they find them by packing out everything that they take in – including human waste.

The increased use of popular snowholing locations in recent years has resulted in the unsightly and unhygienic problem of human waste found melting out of snowbanks during the spring thaw. The problem of human waste is more acute during the winter when the usual biological processes do not occur, meaning that everything left behind stays frozen until it melts out of the snow.

“We see quite heavy use of particular areas with increased intensity during poor winters when the Cairngorms is sometimes one of the few places where snow-holing is actually possible,” explained Head Ranger, Nic Bullivant.

In an effort to promote more of a ‘leave no trace’ ethic of camping, Cairngorm Mountain is supplying special ‘poo pots’ and biodegradable carry bags free of charge so that all waste can be brought back for disposal

at a waste treatment plant at the Coire Cas car park. The pots and bags are available from the Ranger Base, also at the car park.

Separately, Cairngorm Mountain has lodged a request with Scottish Natural Heritage and Highland Council for permission to offer guided walks onto the plateau from the top of the Cairngorm funicular on a permanent basis. This follows positive feedback from the more than 1,100 walkers who participated in ranger-guided walks during a three-month trial that ended in October.

“Ideally, we would like to make this a permanent arrangement, running guided walks from the start of May to the end of October each year,” explained Bullivant.

The trial marked the first time since the funicular opened a decade ago that passengers could enjoy direct access to the plateau. Previously, amidst fears that large numbers of walkers would damage the fragile arctic-alpine environment, funicular passengers had to be content with enjoying the views from the Ptarmigan Top Station. www.tinyurl.com/cgrmntn

BIRDS OF PREY that have never before been satellite tagged in the UK can now be followed online thanks to a project called Raptor Track. The scheme, which aims to raise awareness of the movements of raptors within the Cairngorms National Park and beyond, will also assist with future conservation efforts, including deterring wildlife crime.

The project has seen satellite tags placed on two peregrine falcons named Freya and Vega, a hobby called Aeshna and a merlin named Corrie. Two hen harriers (pictured) and several young golden eagles have also been tagged to follow up on an earlier satellite tagging of golden eagles and ospreys in the National Park.

According to Roy Dennis from the Highland Foundation for Wildlife, one of the project partners, tracking by satellite transmitters adds significantly to the knowledge of raptors already gained from field study and ringing. “We can follow them as individuals and understand much more about their daily lives and the problems they face,” he explained.

“There’s also the excitement of ‘what next’? Vega the peregrine made a day trip to the Cromarty Firth last week, while my computer tells me that Tanar, the hen harrier, roosted last night in the Angus glens, while Aeshna, the hobby, had flown from Senegal to Guinea in West Africa – one day she will hopefully return to Strathspey.” www.raptortrack.org

Rare beastie discovered CONSERVATION CHARITY Trees for Life announced an exciting find recently when one of its team discovered a species of sawfly that has never been recorded in the UK before. Biodiversity surveyor Guy Knight, an entomologist at the National Museums in Liverpool, discovered the sawfly (Nematus pseudodispar, pictured) on the charity’s Dundreggan Estate in Glen Moriston, to the west of Loch Ness.

While a first for the UK, the species is also thought to be extremely rare in Europe, having only previously been found in Finland and Latvia. It is considered to be a true northern European birchwood specialist.

The discovery at Dundreggan is the latest in a string of finds at the site.

These include a mining bee thought to have been extinct in Scotland since 1949 and the golden horsefly, which had only been seen twice in Scotland since 1923 until it was spotted again at Dundreggan in 2008. www.treesforlife.org.uk

www.scotoutdoors.com

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OUTDOOR • NEWS

Nature a main attraction

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NATURE-BASED tourism is worth at least £1.4 billion a year to the Scottish economy and supports the equivalent of 39,000 full-time jobs, according to the findings of a new report commissioned by Scottish Natural Heritage (SNH).

A significant chunk of revenue comes from field sports with game shooting, deer stalking and angling together generating some £136 million. Wildlife tourism is not far behind, worth £127 million, and is the main driver behind more than a million trips to Scotland each year. Among the contributors is dolphin watching on the east coast, which generates at least £4 million a year for the local economy, while sea eagles on Mull pull in around £2 million.

Meanwhile, adventure activities, including mountain biking, canoeing and upand-coming sports such as surfing are worth £178 million, said the report.

SNH conceded that attempting to measure the economic impact of activities such as walking and landscape appreciation is difficult. However, using information from other studies, the research estimates that walking and landscape are worth at least £900 million between them.

The report also highlighted visitor figures for specific places, such as the 110,000 people who reach the summit of Ben Nevis each year; the 30,000 who complete the West Highland Way and a further 60,000 who trek part of it.

Meanwhile, an incredible 400,000 people a year visit Glen Nevis.

SNH commissioned the study as part of wider research to quantify the value of Scotland’s nature to the economy. It follows a previous report which found that sustainable management of natural resources was worth £17.2 billion a year to Scotland. www.snh.gov.uk

OUTDOOR RETAILER Tiso has enjoyed an enthusiastic response to the opening of its new store in Perth – the largest of its four Outdoor Experience stores. Opened in October, with help from Tiso ambassador Polly Murray (pictured with Maude Tiso) – the first Scottish woman to summit Everest – the £1 million store is already benefiting from a prime position by the Inveralmond roundabout, just off the busy A9.

The interactive store includes a dedicated section for Alpine Bikes, a 30-foot climbing wall and boot test area. It also reaches out to families with a Playbugs softplay area adjacent to the upstairs Fit Food Bistro – meaning that kids can be kept entertained while the adults eat or shop.

Scotland Outdoors is delighted to be part of the new store with the magazine now stocked not only at the Perth Outdoor Experience but also at Tiso stores in Edinburgh, Leith, Glasgow and Inverness. www.tiso.com

PHOTOGRAPH: TISO

Tiso growth

Ditch the tent ...

Gastro biking ALREADY RENOWNED as a destination for mountain biking, the Scottish Borders could soon gain a reputation for a very different kind of cycling experience if adventure travel and guiding service Go-Where has anything to do with it. The Innerleithen-based operator recently hosted its first customers – including a father and son who travelled from Vietnam and Afghanistan – on a new gastronomic cycle tour of the Scottish Borders.

The three-day, 100-mile ride starts in Biggar and ends on the North Sea coast at Berwickupon-Tweed. Using the River Tweed as a loose guide, the way-marked route takes riders along quiet roads via famous Borders landmarks, stopping off to enjoy foodie hotspots along the way including a chocolate cookery school in Peebles, a smokery near Kelso and plenty of country pubs. www.go-where.co.uk

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PHOTOGRAPH: BIG TREE CAMPERVANS

PHOTOGRAPH: PETER CAIRNS

NEW CAMPERVAN hire business Big Tree Campervans has reported a phenomenal first year of business as walkers, cyclists and other outdoor lovers flock to use the vans as a mobile base for outdoor adventures.

“After a busy first half of the year, we’ve just had a very hectic autumn with folk wanting to experience the full splendour of the autumn colours,” explained Simon Yearsley, who runs the Perth-based operator together with his wife Sarah. “We’ve been particularly delighted to get a really wide spread of customers, including from the US, Australia, Spain, France, Germany … the list goes on.”

The plan had been to take a

break over the winter, but demand has been such that Big Tree Campervans will now run three of its six-strong fleet of vans over the winter period. The vans have been made winter-ready with powerful heaters, additional roof insulation and special winter tyres. “Having used the campervans ourselves for lots of amazing winter climbing adventures, we really know what works well for winter campervan trips,” said Yearsley.

To help you enjoy the very best campervan adventures this winter, the company is offering a 25% discount on hire rates during selected dates in December, January and February. www.bigtreecampervans.com

They came, they climbed WALKERS CAME from far and wide to experience hill walking island style at this year’s Arran Mountain Festival. Despite the best attempts of the weather to dampen spirits, the community-run annual event has firmly established itself in the walking festival calendar. Participants were able to choose from a variety of guided walks exploring the island’s spectacular landscape.

As well as leading groups to enjoy old favourites such as Beinn Nuis (pictured), the programme also included some new treats to attract more seasoned walkers, such as the exhilarating traverse of one of Scotland’s finest ridges, A’Chir. The next Arran Mountain Festival will take place from 16-19 September 2011. www.arranmountainfestival.co.uk

www.scotoutdoors.com

The Tweed Valley - Scotland’s natural playground Situated in the heart of Peebles we are a family run hotel totally geared up to providing you with a wonderful active break.

With a unique combination of adventure, activity, culture and tranquility on offer, the Tweed Valley really is Scotland’s natural playground.

For mountain bikers we are only 3 miles away from the world famous Glentress Centre and for walkers we have some of the finest walking in Southern Scotland on our doorstep including the Southern Upland Way and John Buchan Way. As sponsors of Freedom of the Fairways - the best selling golf passport in Scotland, we provide superb golfing breaks and with our enviable location overlooking the River Tweed we are the perfect choice for fishing.

And when you come in from the great outdoors you can be assured of our own great service and food. With 36 en-suite bedrooms, secure storage, drying room and private parking for our guests we really are the perfect base for an active break.

Whatever your interest, with our local knowledge, warm hospitality and activity expertise we will make sure you have an excellent stay.

HIGH STREET PEEBLES T : 01721 720 892 WWW.TONTINEHOTEL.COM

14-15_EVENTS_SO_WINT10_Layout 2 copy 4 29/11/2010 17:55 Page 14

OUTDOOR • EVENTS

Inspirations - what’s caught our eye for the months ahead • Make the most of the winter conditions by joining Wilderness Scotland on one of its winter walking trips. Choose from expeditions to the Cairngorms and Creag Meagaidh, the Knoydart peninsula (pictured) and, new for 2011, Ben Nevis and the West Highlands – a challenging experience on Scotland’s highest summit. www.wildernessscotland.com

PHOTOGRAPH: WILDERNESS SCOTLAND

• Running The Highlands is offering a fullboard running weekend at the Balmoral Estate from 11–13 March. The package includes accommodation in staff quarters at the castle, three guided runs, presentations from leading figures in the running world and a discussion with special guest, round-the-world runner Rosie Swale-Pope.

www.runningthehighlands.com • Those who like their adventures on a grand scale should check out an all-new coast to coast mountain bike trip run by Highlands & Islands Adventures. This eight-day epic takes in some of the best off-road riding in Scotland as it journeys from Bonar Bridge in the far northeast Highlands to Applecross.

You’ll even get to ride across a Highland loch

15-16 January

11-15 February

The Sixth Strathpuffer, Strathpeffer

Fort William Mountain Festival

The lunatic fringe of mountain biking gathers once again in Strathpeffer for what has become something of a cult event. All you have to do is ride for 24 hours – in the dead of winter – completing as many laps of an 11km course as you can. Simple really.

The event is open to solos, pairs and teams of four. Sense of humour essential. www.strathpuffer.co.uk

Another fantastic programme of snowsports workshops, films, lectures and presentations in a festival that encourages people to participate as well as spectate. One of the best events of its kind in Scotland. www.mountainfilmfestival.co.uk

15 Jan, 19 Feb, 9 April

Open all winter Sea eagle watching, Isle of Mull Fans of impressive birds of prey should head to Loch Frisa on Mull for a chance to watch Skye and Frisa – the sea eagle stars of the BBC’s Springwatch and Autumnwatch programmes. The hide at Loch Frisa is open throughout the winter. Booking is essential.

Tel: 07920 817 362 or for general enquiries call the Craignure Visitor Information Centre on 01680 812 556.

14

PHOTOGRAPH: NO FUSS EVENTS

PHOTOGRAPH: IAIN ERSKINE

Winter Feast Duathlon Series, Lochaber

A trio of increasingly challenging events (billed as the Appetizer, Main Course and Big Puddin’) aimed at those who are new to duathlons, or who just want to improve their fitness. Complete all three and you’ll be hooked! www.nofussevents.co.uk Scotland Outdoors Winter 2010

14-15_EVENTS_SO_WINT10_Layout 2 copy 4 29/11/2010 17:56 Page 15

on a high-speed RIB.

www.mtbholidayscotland.com • Sutherland-based NorWest Sea Kayaking has launched a new three-day Learn to Sea Kayak adventure package that sees beginner and intermediate paddlers explore the stunning surroundings of the Summer Isles. Expect to enjoy expert tuition, magical seascapes and plenty of fresh local produce.

www.norwestseakayaking.com • About Argyll Walking Holidays has spread its wings to include two new trips for 2011: a week-long exploration of the Small Isles, with extensive walking on Eigg, Muck and Rum; and a fantastic expedition to enjoy some of the best walking in Shetland (including Fair Isle).

www.aboutargyll.co.uk PHOTOGRAPH: SKINNY TYRES

18-21 February

26 March

WinterFest 2011, Glen Affric

Heartride, Dumfries & Galloway

Head to beautiful Glen Affric to try something new this winter. Choose from a great selection of winter skills sessions, guided walks, snow-shoeing and even the chance to spend the night in a snow-hole. www.winter-fest.co.uk

19 March The Deerstalker, Traquair House, Scottish Borders

www.scotoutdoors.com

PHOTOGRAPH: SLEEPMONSTERS

PHOTOGRAPH: FORT WILLIAM MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL

Adventure running with a twist as several hundred people dressed in Tweed and comedy antlers negotiate a fiendish course designed specifically to get you wet and muddy. Just save some energy for the Beerstalker party afterwards. You’ll need it. www.ratraceadventure.com

Get on your bike for British Heart Foundation Scotland’s flagship sporting challenge for 2011 – a sportive and offroad cycling event that takes in some of the best scenery in southwest Scotland.

The event sees 15-, 30- and 60-mile options through the Galloway Forest and the Machars as well as two mountain bike routes at Kirroughtree, so there is something for all levels of fitness. www.bhf.org.uk/heartride

16-17 April The Scottish Bike Show, SECC, Glasgow

PHOTOGRAPH: ANDY MCCANDLISH

PHOTOGRAPH: NATURAL HIGH GUIDING

• Road cycle tour company Skinny Tyres (pictured) has launched its new Revolution tour – a 200-mile blast through Highland Perthshire in April. Fully supported, the tour allows riders to concentrate on their cycling and not have to worry about transporting luggage or mechanical issues. www.SkinnyTyres.com

Avid riders now have their very own dedicated cycling event following the launch of the Scottish Bike Show – a major new exhibition designed to showcase the very best of Scottish cycling in all its forms. www.thescottishbikeshow.com

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16_READING_WINT10_Layout 2 copy 4 30/11/2010 16:07 Page 16

OUTDOOR • READING FROM MAGNIFICENT PHOTOGRAPHY TO AN IMPASSIONED DEFENCE OF A LONG LOST PREDATOR, HERE ARE SOME OF THE BEST NEW OUTDOOR TITLES All the titles we review and more are available at the Scotland Outdoors online store. To browse, visit www.scotoutdoors.com/bookshop

Scotland, Chris Townsend

The Last Wolf, Jim Crumley

Six years in the writing, Chris Townsend’s Scotland is a hugely impressive piece of work. A man known for his long-distance walking exploits probably needed the same kind of fortitude to pull together this particular tour de force.

Coming in at over 500 pages, it is not something to carry into the hills, but is instead a valuable resource book for anyone wishing to explore Scotland’s wild OUR FAVOURITE places – whether as a walker, mountaineer, climber or ski tourer.

The author has a long association with a rival magazine, but we won’t hold that against him. His passion for Scotland’s mountains seeps from every page, as does the wealth of information on almost every ridge and bump the country has to offer. Inspirational stuff.

RRP £25.00 www.cicerone.co.uk

High Light, A Vision of Wild Scotland, Colin Prior A new collection of work that the author describes as a “a distillation of my passion for the landscape of Scotland”, High Light is full of Colin Prior’s trademark panoramic landscapes, but also pictures of fine detail that ask questions about how we interact with nature. Simple images – lichen on a rowan, the detail of a strand of kelp – have as much power as the sweeping landscapes.

I also enjoyed the short descriptions at the back that tell how he captured each image – shots that invariably involved wild camping high on a ridge to catch the first and last light of the day.

With luck, some of his technique and sheer patience will rub off.

Further north, the land becomes wilder and options for routes are unlimited and less prescribed. “Loch Lomond to Fort William is just the start,” writes Turnbull.

The photographs, scaled with walkers under loads, show a passion for the landscape. Relevant sections of OS maps are given, but the adventurer should carry overspill for context and navigation. And, as the author would probably agree, it is always that not shown at all which is the most interesting.

Although not always an easy read – the author is rarely less than forthright in his opinions – The Last Wolf offers a stirring defence of an animal not seen in the wild in Scotland for around 300 years.

Jim Crumley has certainly done his research and uses this knowledge to debunk the myths, half-truths and downright lies that, taken together, have served to demonise the wolf down the centuries. This is no more so than here in Scotland “where Scots have raised historical prejudice [of wolves] to an art form for the masses”.

He offers examples of wolf reintroductions in the US and Norway that have restored the animal to its position as top predator and a primary influence of biological change – models of change that could also happen here in Scotland, he suggests.

In the prologue – perhaps the most beautifully reasoned section of the whole book – wolves are described as ‘painters of mountains’. He writes of how a mountain, once browsed to death by countless deer that had grown complacent in the absence of predators, is returned to colourful life when the reappearance of wolves compels the deer to resume a life on the move.

Above all, this is a call for the wolf to have a fair hearing in any debate about whether the animal should ever be returned to Scotland.

Crumley’s own view about the value of “restoring the wolf to its rightful place” in the Scottish landscape is never in doubt – with the great empty expanse of Rannoch Moor suggested as the ideal place for their return.

As the author asks, “Have we strayed so far from our origins as one of nature’s tribes that we cannot permit a single discordant note, a single edgy presence?”

RRP: £12.95 www.cicerone.co.uk

RRP £9.99 www.birlinn.co.uk

RRP: £30.00 www.constablerobinson.com; www.colinprior.co.uk

Not the West Highland Way, Ronald Turnbull “I don’t follow others’ footsteps,” sings folk musician Tim O’Brien in Space between the lines. This is very much the ethic behind a book that offers a different take on the immensely popular long-distance route between Glasgow and Fort William.

There may be comic appreciation in the title, but the content is serious. The audience is the passionate hill walker who fancies the West Highland Way with extras on the side, or who needs to walk from Milngavie to Loch Linnhe on the road less travelled, or who just wants a new challenge far from the crowds.

Ronald Turnbull blends instruction with anecdote, bringing colour to navigation and humanity to camping in the Scottish hills.

There are interesting asides, from geology and history to mountain literature and music.

The author is well-read and carries a rucksack full of stories.

The descriptions of the 24 routes are clear and the right amount of detail is included.

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Scotland Outdoors Winter 2010

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SCOTLAND OUTDOORS WINTER COMPETITION

WIN

Ever wanted to learn the skills needed to explore Scotland’s mountains in their winter splendour? Well, now’s your chance. Scotland Outdoors has teamed with Torridon-based nineonesix-guiding to offer readers the chance to win a winter skills weekend for two in one of Scotland’s most impressive mountain areas.

Since 2003, nineonesix-guiding has provided a local, professional service that treats people as individuals whether in the mountains, on the crag, or on the trail. The company has helped clients climb Beinn Eighe on Hogmanay as a first ever winter Munro; assisted film crews working on television series; and introduced countless folk to rock climbing and abseiling.

Although based in Shieldaig in the heart of Torridon, nineonesix-guiding also operates trips to other areas, with previous clients guided up iconic peaks such as An Teallach and top spots in the Skye Cuillin and the Cairngorms.

Rather than promote a raft of courses for people to try and fit into, nineonesix-guiding prefers a more bespoke approach based around achieving personal ambitions. The company also believes strongly that having local staff helps give clients an even fuller experience.

And you can be sure of being guided by true mountain professionals. Members of the nineonesix-guiding team are all highly qualified with owner Jim Sutherland also serving as training officer for the Torridon Mountain Rescue Team.

The winner of this prize, along with a friend, will spend a weekend learning key winter skills in the stunning Torridon mountains. Whether a winter mountain novice or a more experienced winter mountaineer looking to fine-tune specific skills, the weekend will be geared towards achieving whatever goals you have in mind.

During the weekend you will stay at Kinloch B&B, which offers fantastic cottage accommodation overlooking the shores of Loch Torridon (pictured right).

a fantastic winter skills course for two in Torridon

HOW TO ENTER To enter, see this page or visit www.nineonesix.co.uk to find the answer to the following question: In which famous Scottish mountain area is nineonesix-guiding based?

Please send the answer together with your name, address and telephone number in an email headed ‘Scotland Outdoors competition’ to competition@scotoutdoors.com

PRIZE DETAILS The prize is for two days’ guiding in the mountains of Torridon for two people, plus two nights’ accommodation at Kinloch B&B in Shieldaig. The closing date for this competition is 31 January 2011 with the winner notified shortly afterwards by email. The prize must be taken by the end of March 2011.

GETTING THERE Shieldaig is about a 90-minute drive west of Inverness (approximately 65 miles) and two hours (approximately 100 miles) from Fort William. Directions and full details on what to bring will be provided in advance of the weekend. For further information, visit www.nineonesix.co.uk or call 01520 755358.

For more on Kinloch B&B, visit www.stevecarter.com/ansh/kinloch.htm See also page 52 for a winter novice’s account of a weekend spent learning winter hill skills with nineonesix-guiding.

For full terms and conditions, visit www.scotoutdoors.com/competition

PHOTOGRAPHY:

www.scotoutdoors.com

17

18-19_INNOVATIONS_SO_WINT10_Innovations Spread v2 copy 29/11/2010 18:00 Page 18

OUTDOOR • INNOVATIONS

FROM WALKING BOOTS TO WALKIE-TALKIES AND FUN DOGGIE ACCESSORIES, HERE’S OUR PICK OF SOME OF THE BEST OUTDOOR PRODUCTS FOR CHRISTMAS AND BEYOND If you would like to submit details on innovative new products or send samples for testing, please contact the Scotland Outdoors team at products@scotoutdoors.com

Mountain boot, Brasher A brand perhaps best known for less heavyweight options used below the snowline, Brasher’s Kanaga GTX maintains the lightweight tradition but in a boot that can also cope with the cold stuff.

Designed for year-round mountain use, the boot offers high ankle support, memory foam in the collar and cuff to prevent rubbing, aggressive treads on the sole and excellent toe protection. It’s wellpriced too. So far, our sample pair has proved more than capable in early-season snowy conditions, but we’re looking forward to testing this B1 crampon-compatible boot further when the weather really turns wintry.

SRP: £155.00 www.brasher.co.uk

Lightweight head torch, Princeton Tec

Sports sunglasses, Polaroid

Polaroid has unveiled a new range of polarised sports sunglasses that are suitable for a range of activities from skiing to fishing and sailing. We’ve used the Vector 99 P7007A sunglasses for mountain biking and hill running and were impressed by the clarity of the interchangeable lenses and comfort of the lightweight wraparound frame.

This particular model comes with three clip-in lenses – clear, orange-tinted and polarised – that among them cover a wide range of ambient light and weather conditions. The fit is snug without being tight, while the rubber grips on the ear fittings ensure the glasses remain stable even when bouncing along the roughest ground on your bike. In fact it’s very easy to forget you are wearing them at all.

SRP: from £49.99 (model shown £74.99) www.polaroidsunglasses.co.uk

Head torches just keep getting lighter and more powerful. Weighing in at just 64g the new Byte head torch from Princeton Tec is the US brand’s lightest head torch yet, but still packs a powerful punch when it comes to brightness. The Byte also comes with a red Ultrabright LED for when night vision or a more subtle light is required.

SRP: £19.95 www.whitbyandco.co.uk

Walking socks, SmartWool Keep your tootsies fresh and toasty with the SmartWool PhD Outdoor collection of socks.

Made from top-quality Merino wool, the socks naturally regulate temperature – keeping feet warm in winter and cool in summer – but also benefit from mesh ventilation zones to help your feet breathe easily. Wool is also antimicrobial, so your feet should stay nice and fresh even after a long stomp in the hills. We’ve enjoyed testing a medium cushion version, although the collection includes a variety of options from super-lightweight to heavy in both men’s and women’s fit.

SRP: £17.25 (for medium crew, pictured) www.smartwool.com

18

Waterproof camera cases, Aquapac Aquapac has unveiled its new Submersible range of waterproof camera cases that should take the worry out of using a camera in and around water. The range, which includes a see-through SLR case, can cope with anything from a few splashes of rain to being submerged up to depths of five metres. Water is kept at bay thanks to a water-tight clip mechanism while the acrylic material allows you to take great pictures through it even when underwater. The cases are ideal for when kayaking, canoeing or just messing about at the beach.

SRP: £80.00 www.aquapac.net

Scotland Outdoors Winter 2010

18-19_INNOVATIONS_SO_WINT10_Innovations Spread v2 copy 29/11/2010 18:01 Page 19

Night-time doggie accessories, Nite Ize

Insect-repelling clothing, Craghoppers

Treat your pooch through the darker months with a range of accessories that will keep your hound playing outside even during the hours of darkness. Nite Ize offers a range of doggie delights including the Meteorlight K-9 LED pet ball – an ultra-tough rubber ball that lights up for games of night-time fetch.

The Scotland Outdoors office dog enjoyed freaking out passers-by who couldn’t understand what the disembodied glow in the night was – particularly when it came bounding towards them to say hello. With that in mind, it is probably only fair to also make use of the Nite-Dawg leash and collar that light up to make your dog’s presence known to other walkers and runners.

Craghoppers has developed what it claims to be the world’s first collection of outdoor clothing that repels ticks, midges and mosquitoes for the lifetime of the product – something that will certainly prick up the ears of anyone who spends time in the Scottish outdoors.

The NosiLife range includes shirts, a longsleeved half-zip top – which we found to be excellent either as a base or second layer – convertible trousers and trekking socks.

SRP: Meteorlight K-9 Pet Ball £11.95; Nite-Dawg Collar £17.95 (pictured) www.niteize.com

Calendar and diary, Trees for Life

SRP £35.00 for long-sleeved top (pictured) www.craghoppers.co.uk

With 2011 declared the UN International Year of Forests, why not make your own contribution by buying a wall calendar and diary from the Scottish charity Trees for Life? The wall calendar combines high-quality photographs of trees, forests and their wildlife with information about the state of the forests in each featured country. Meanwhile, the diary includes a collection of 58 images of trees from around the world, information about many of the areas depicted and a glossary of forest types.

All profits from their sale are used to support the charity’s practical forest conservation work in the Highlands.

SRP: Wall calendar £9.95; diary £12.95 www.treesforlife.org.uk

Food flask, Berghaus We’ve all used vacuum flasks for keeping drinks warm when outdoors, but why not food also? This nifty halflitre flask from Berghaus comes with a wider mouth that allows for carrying stews, soups and other hearty meals when heading outdoors. The screw-top lid hides a foldable spoon while the flask also comes with a carry handle.

Lightweight down jacket, Rab Looking for a down jacket, but without the bulk? Then the new Infinity Jacket from Rab might be just what you are after.

Ideal for most mountain activities, it combines a Pertex Quantum rip-stop fabric shell and lining with 850 fill expedition-quality goose down to offer phenomenal warmth and comfort but in a very lightweight package.

SRP: £14.99 www.millets.co.uk

Car camping stove, Vango

SRP: £200.00 www.rab-pertex.co.uk

On peak communication, Oregon Scientific

www.scotoutdoors.com

Stay in touch on the slopes this winter with Oregon Scientific’s super slim and ultra-light TP391 walkietalkies. At just 16mm thick, the two-way radios fit easily into a jacket pocket, while with an effective range of 5km they are perfect for keeping in touch when different groups are out on the mountain. Each walkie-talkie has a battery life of 18 hours and offers free communications between any radio from any manufacturer that operates on the same channel.

Much better – and cheaper – than calling each other on a mobile when arranging lunch stops.

Vango has expanded its range of gas stoves suitable for winter camping, including a new double burner stove that comes complete with windshields and a grill. Perfect for car camping when wanting to cook with more than one pan at a time, the stove is equipped with three stainless steel burners and a toaster below. The top lid functions as a further windshield, while the folding case design includes a carry handle.

SRP: £49.99 www.oregonscientific.co.uk

SRP: £55.00 www.vango.co.uk

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20_DITL_WINT10_Layout 2 copy 4 29/11/2010 18:01 Page 20

PHOTOGRAPHY: STEVEN MCKENNA/NEVIS RANGE

OUTDOOR • PEOPLE

Day inthe life of...

Jeff Starkey Ski Patrol Manager, Nevis Range Standing at the doorway of the Nevis Range Ski Patrol hut – my office for four months of the year – I gaze across the summit of Aonach Mor and take in one of the most breathtaking views in Scotland. What the hut lacks in comfort it makes up for in location, sitting just a stone’s throw from a 100m vertical drop into Coire Lochan.

During the winter, our day usually starts at 7am. Armed with radios, our team takes the gondola to the base of the ski area, some 650m up the slopes of Aonach Mor. There, we collect our safety gear and head out into the snow.

Our first task is to assess conditions on the hill prior to opening. We have already picked up the weather forecast and avalanche report issued overnight, but must also assess the hill, taking into account the prevailing weather and any changes in snow conditions overnight.

An overnight frost may result in firm snow patches and frozen tows, or there may be fresh snow which will mean considerable drifting, hidden safety signage and perhaps buried tows.

As the engineering team begins to open the lifts, the patrollers ski each of the main runs, assessing the snow conditions as they find them – all the time relaying information to office staff so that they can send snow reports

20

by email and update our website and onsite information screens.

The avalanche forecast is particularly important for assessing the Back Corries. One of the most challenging and popular skiing areas in the resort, it is an area known to have avalanche risk. Access routes are often over corniced edges and, on occasion, we use explosives to remove excessive amounts of cornice that may be prone to collapse and trigger avalanches on the slopes below.

The process of opening the hill normally takes about two hours each day – or longer when there has been significant snowfall overnight – and we work closely with the engineering team to prioritise the areas that need grooming.

For much of the rest of the day we are in ‘patrol mode’, interacting with skiers and advising on conditions. We also pick up the pieces when it all goes wrong and are first on the scene when there is a casualty on the slopes.

In some instances, the patroller will be able to treat the unfortunate person on their own, while in other situations they will need backup, including calling for the use of an empty sledge to aid evacuation off the hill.

In a typical winter season, we will treat more than 100 casualties, while it is not uncommon for us to assist the Lochaber Mountain Rescue Team; after all, we are located close to some of the most easily accessible winter climbing in Scotland.

Over the years, there have been some notable rescues. Two seasons ago I found myself hanging on the end of a rope half way down an ice pitch, treating a climber with a broken leg.

The only way to extract him was to raise him up and over the cornice edge. Another unusual situation, though less serious, was when a snowboarder chopped off the end of his finger.

It’s a challenging and dynamic role and no

two days are the same, Roll call: the Nevis but luckily there are also Range Ski Patrol team (above left); Jeff gets routine tasks so we are to grips with a not running on technical rope rescue adrenaline the whole (right); the Ski Patrol time. It can be incredibly hut high on the mountain (below) cold, but the main problem is that we can go from periods of relative inactivity and just talking to skiers to a serious rescue situation in the blink of an eye. That means it’s important for us to stay warm and take full advantage of food breaks, as we never quite know when we’ll have to drop everything and head off to an unknown rescue situation.

I am lucky to work with an amazing team of dedicated individuals and for now can’t imagine doing anything else. I certainly won’t be swapping my office view for anywhere else in a hurry. g

Further details The Nevis Range ski area is located seven miles north of Fort William. The resort gondola provides access to 11 lifts and 35 runs, from beginner to advanced – including the Back Corries. The resort has its own snowsports school and equipment hire. www.nevisrange.co.uk

Scotland Outdoors Winter 2010

ads_Layout 2 copy 4 29/11/2010 18:13 Page 21

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Kylebhan Charters – a world apart Wildlife Holidays in the West Highlands

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22_BOARD&LODGING_WINT10_Layout 2 copy 4 29/11/2010 18:02 Page 22

PHOTOGRAPHY: RICHARD ROWE; GREAT GLEN YURTS

BOARD & LODGING • GREAT GLEN YURTS, TORLUNDY

Round house (clockwise from above left): accommodation with a difference; inside one of the yurts; standing guard; views to Ben Nevis

Field of dreams RICHARD ROWE DISCOVERS THE ULTIMATE ROOM WITH A VIEW IN A FIELD OUTSIDE FORT WILLIAM

I

T’S NOT often that you get to enjoy an uninterrupted view of Scotland’s highest mountain from the comfort of your own bed – particularly one that is framed by the front door of a Mongolian yurt. But that’s exactly what’s on offer at Great Glen Yurts based at Torlundy Farm, near Fort William.

It’s a simple set-up. Backed by woodland and a bubbling burn, three brand new yurts sit, nicely spaced, in a field on an organic farm with front-row views over the Nevis Range. The brainchild of sisters Julie French and Sophie Carver, the yurts offer back-tobasics accommodation but without scrimping on comfort.

“The yurts were Sophie’s idea really,” explained Julie. “She had stayed in a yurt in France one winter and so knew they were cosy and could cope with the Scottish weather. We also wanted to offer something a bit different – there’s nothing else quite like it in the area.”

You can say that again. Our home for the weekend, Otter – one of the two smaller yurts available – is ideal for two (plus dog), with a double bed decked out with plump pillows, quilts and fake fur throws. The homely feel is enhanced by a collection of colourful furniture, including two single futons that are perfect for kids, an armchair and a tiny woodburning stove.

The bare wooden floor is covered with an assortment of sheepskins and rugs, while oil lamps, candles and wind-up lanterns create a romantic atmosphere at night. The yurt is incredibly well-insulated and with the stove going full blast, it doesn’t take long to heat up – retaining warmth long after the fire goes out. A word of warning, though: the doorway is very low and it may take a few cracks to the skull before remembering to duck. Or maybe that’s just me.

In keeping with the informal, eco-friendly feel of the place, facilities are pretty basic. They include a couple of wooden cabins that house

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dry compost toilets – facilities that put the long into long drop. Compost toilet newbies might find using them a little unnerving at first – particularly in the dead of night – but you soon get the hang of using sawdust to ‘flush’ and washing your hands in a bucket of peat-tinted water taken from the nearby burn.

Julie and Sophie are eager to encourage a sense of communal living and have set aside a campfire pit with brazier near the yurts, plus a barn converted into an inside/outside kitchen complete with flatbed stove, barbeque, lanterns and a pot-bellied wood-burner to keep the chill off. One night while cooking steaks on the barbeque, the light fading over Ben Nevis, we watched as bats flitted into the barn to snatch insects attracted by the lanterns.

During daylight hours, it’s impossible not to be impressed by the grandeur of the surroundings. From the doorway of our yurt, we gazed up at the Aonachs Mor and Beg, the ski paraphernalia of the Nevis Range clearly visible on the high ridges. Through binoculars, we could also make out the two downhill mountain bike tracks that start high up the hill; the famed World Cup trail shoots almost vertically down the mountain, while the new red trail takes a more meandering route before disappearing into the broad band of Leanachan Forest that wraps around its base.

And then there are the uninterrupted views across the shattered north face of Ben Nevis itself – the actual summit seemingly perpetually shrouded in cloud. Scanning the mountain’s massive flanks, it is possible to see walkers plodding up the main track from Glen Nevis before zig-zagging out of view.

Unable to resist, we sampled as much as we could, hitting the trails on foot and by bike and even squeezing in a trip to Glen Roy to check out the famous Parallel Roads. And at the end of each busy day, we returned to our little round house, lit the fire, cranked the lanterns and settled in for a blissfully cosy night. g

Great Glen Yurts The yurts are recommended for two to four people, although the larger Eagle Yurt can sleep up to six if you don’t mind a snug fit.

Prices start at £140.00 (minimum two-night stay) with weekly rates also available. Dogs are welcome (small surcharge payable). This winter, the yurts will be closed but are likely to book up fast on reopening in March. www.greatglenyurts.com

In the area Nevis Range Ski, ride, climb or just lark about on the new high wire Adventure Course – the choice is yours. www.nevisrange.co.uk

Lochaber and around For much more on what is available around Lochaber – the self-styled Outdoor Capital of the UK – visit www.outdoorcapital.co.uk

Fishing Torlundy Farm has three well-stocked trout fishing hill lochans with great mountain views. Rod hire and tuition available if required.

Geological wonders For something different, head to Glen Roy to see the Parallel Roads – giant ‘tide marks’ on the hillside that indicate the previous shorelines of ancient, ice-dammed lochs.

Scotland Outdoors Winter 2010

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OUTDOOR • PASSIONS

Lesley McKenna Professional snowboarder A TRIPLE OLYMPIAN AND HIGHLY-RESPECTED COACH, LESLEY MCKENNA HAS PLAYED A MAJOR ROLE IN THE DEVELOPMENT OF WOMEN’S SNOWBOARDING. HERE, SHE REFLECTS ON BUMPS, BRUISES AND A SPORT THAT HAS VERY MUCH COME OF AGE. PHOTOGRAPHY: EUANB.COM Growing up in Aviemore must have been a dream for you. When did you first strap on skis and a board?

I first put on skis at around 18 months of age. They were the tiny ones with plastic straps as bindings. I first went up Cairngorm at the age of 4, but didn’t try snowboarding until I was 19.

You grew up skiing with your cousins, Alain and Noel Baxter, who went on to become pro alpine skiers. That must have been a competitive childhood.

Alain and I were like peas in a pod as we are only six months apart in age. Everything he did I tried as well; he was usually better than me, so it gave me someone to chase. Noel is a good bit younger so we grew up mentoring him in a way.

You were in the GB ski team – what made you switch to snowboarding?

At the time there was very little support for skiers and not so many opportunities to reach the top level.

Snowboarding was a new and exciting sport with a lot of fun and maverick people involved who made me feel very welcome.

Your particular discipline, the half-pipe, looks to be an all-or-nothing occupation. How much of a risk-taker are you?

When young, I was a natural risk-taker but as I grew up I learned to take more calculated ones. The best snowboarders are the ones who never take a blind risk.

How has snowboarding changed as a sport since you first started competing?

Snowboarding has grown up and become a lot more structured at the elite level. There is a lot of high level sports science and coaching which is really helping raise the level on both the men’s and women’s sides.

Now in your mid-thirties, how does your body feel after all the bumps and bruises?

I am really lucky in that I trained hard from a young age and was already very strong when I took up snowboarding. This has meant I have come off lightly from all the crashes I have had. But don’t get me wrong, I definitely don’t bounce like I used to.

What is the snowboarding scene in Scotland like today?

Snowboarding is still a small sport but there are strong scenes around the indoor area at Braehead plus the ski centres and dry slopes. There are more snowboard coaches coming through with good

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qualifications that I have been helping BASI (British Association of Snowsport Instructors) to develop.

Are there any top prospects coming through?

We have one of the best pipe riders in the world for his age in Ben Kilner who is definitely capable of taking on the world. Although Snowsports GB [the sport’s governing body] collapsed last year, snowboarding has not been as affected as skiing and we are going from strength to strength.

Up in the air (clockwise from right): competing in the 2009 Burton European Open in Laax, Switzerland; Lesley McKenna has been a familiar face on the International Snowboard World Cup tour for more than a decade; enjoying the Scottish conditions

Looking back at your career, what achievements are you most proud of?

I think being able to make a career from a new sport and work with all my sponsors and backers on a variety of very different snowboard-related projects.

One project has been your co-ownership of film production company, Chunkyknit – how much pleasure has that given you?

Chunkyknit films were definitely a labour of love but are also one of the projects that has been the most rewarding for me. We no longer make films but I arrange a lot of shoots for Roxy [a women’s pro snowboarding team].

How much do you enjoy helping the next generation of female snowboarders make the grade?

Coaching the Roxy team is my main passion at the moment. I am very lucky to have a group of exceptionally talented and creative young athletes to work with.

When not competing or coaching, how do you spend your spare time?

When I can, I like to go to the West Coast or the Hebrides to surf. I love it almost as much as snowboarding.

Will you miss competing when you finally call it a day?

I don’t think I’ll miss the World Cup competitions too much as I probably achieved all I could have done with the chances I had. I won World Cups, competed at the X Games and Olympics, filmed in the backcountry and got to travel the world. I feel very privileged. I will miss the people, though, as I have made a lot of great friends over the years. g

Lesley McKenna was part of the GB Olympic team in Vancouver – her third Winter Olympics – where she competed in the women’s half-pipe. www.lesleymckenna.com

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CONSERVATION • ATLANTIC SALMON

LEAP OF FAITH PHOTOGRAPHY: KEITH RINGLAND/WWW.RINGLANDLIFEIMAGES.CO.UK; DAVID HAY; DEIRDRE BRENNAN; ASFB; LAURIE CAMPBELL

WILD ATLANTIC SALMON MAY SEEM ABUNDANT IN SCOTTISH RIVERS, BUT THIS MAJESTIC FISH FACES UNKNOWN PERILS AT SEA THAT COULD THREATEN THE COMPOSITION OF OUR SALMON STOCKS. IDA MASPERO REPORTS

O

N A MISTY AUTUMN AFTERNOON, wrapped up against the season’s advancing chill, we’re gazing at a stretch of the River Ettrick where it gushes over a weir.

Then, in a calm pool below the white-water rush, there’s a swirl, a splash and a glimpse of tail … just a hint of the powerful beast below, gearing up for action. Seconds later, from the standing wave of white water beneath the weir, a lithe form breaks free, leaping and landing in the heart of the flow.

With mighty thrusts of its entire body, the fish battles and squirms upward, slithering at a

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seemingly impossible angle, exuding an almost electric aura of energy. But before long it loses its hold, slips down and disappears into the froth again. For half an hour we watch, entranced and astonished, as fish after fish attempts to scale the weir in this dramatic fashion. We cannot help but cheer them on, applauding their displays of raw energy and instinctive determination. As we leave, we wonder just how many found the fish ladder and made it into the river beyond.

The power and courage displayed by Atlantic salmon during their upstream migration has long filled humans with awe. The fish is a Celtic

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CONSERVATION • ATLANTIC SALMON

symbol of wisdom, strength and resilience. Evidence of the Picts’ reverence for the Atlantic salmon can still be seen today – standing stones bearing unmistakable, anatomically accurate outlines of the king of fish (a good example stands in the manse garden at Glamis in Angus).

To the people of this land, salmon mysteriously reappeared every year, providing a precious protein bounty seemingly from nowhere.

These people had no idea where the fish came from – or where they went when not in the river – but until very recently, their great migration provided sustenance for coastal communities around Scotland. Today, however, traditional netting practices have largely ceased and the demand for wild-caught salmon has all but disappeared with the advent of fish farming. Now, the wild Atlantic salmon is more sporting quarry – its bounty financial rather than food – with anglers coming from all over the world to experience Scotland’s legendary salmon rivers.

But the ancient mythical significance of this heroic fish remains, as even today’s city-dwelling Britons seem to value and respect it. “We know from studies that the fish has an iconic cultural status,” says Dr Malcolm Windsor, Secretary of the North Atlantic Salmon Conservation Organisation (NASCO), based in Edinburgh. “The general public admire it and care about it in a way they don’t about other fish.”

As Windsor explains, a recent economic survey indicated that Londoners greatly value the Atlantic salmon and are willing to pay to have it restored to the Thames. It Fishy business (clockwise from right): a typical fish is seen as a symbol of purity and farm; salmon alevin; hope for the future, he says. “If different sized parr; angling on the River Don; salmon are in the Thames, the enjoying the sport at river must be clean and life can’t Amnuinnsuidhe, Harris be so bad. People are prepared to pay for salmon as indicators of the health of rivers.”

It is little wonder that the salmon is sometimes referred to as the ‘aquatic canary’, he adds. “It is a sampler of both freshwater and marine environments, telling us something about the health of the rivers, the estuaries and the deep sea. What other sampling tool can do all that for you, and come back?”

“

TO SEA AND BACK The spectacle of salmon leaping is all the more aweinspiring considering what we now know about the complex life story of the species. Incredibly, the fish who put on this energetic display do not feed while making their way upstream to breed. Their last meal would most likely have been at sea, where they spent one or more years fattening up in the nutrient-rich North Atlantic before the first flush of sexual maturity drove them to return in search of the rivers of their birth. Once in fresh water, they may have spent weeks or months, perhaps even a year or more, languishing in quiet pools before a final dash upstream to their spawning grounds.

Here, in early winter, they will spawn at or near the very spot they themselves hatched. Adult salmon will attempt to fend off other adult males and sexually mature parr with their formidable kypes – or hooked jaws – as the females

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” release massive numbers of bright orange eggs in gravel depressions, or redds.

The kelts – fish that have spawned – are weak and vulnerable. Utterly spent having competed for mate after mate, most males will not make it back to sea but will instead die in the river, their bodies ultimately bequeathing phosphates and other precious marine-harvested nutrients to the land.

Meanwhile, the early life of young fish – as alevins, fry and then parr – is fraught with danger. Massive numbers fall prey to birds and other fish, notably trout. After a few years of growth in freshwater, the surviving offspring, now known as smolt, leave the familiar surroundings of their natal stream and run the gauntlet downriver, into the estuary and then the open ocean. Once there, they instinctively navigate their way to rich feeding grounds in the Norwegian Sea. A few will remain there for several years, gorging on crustaceans and small fish, though most individuals, known as grilse, will make the long journey home after just one winter’s feeding at sea.

Exactly how salmon navigate on the migration to and from their oceanic feeding grounds is not fully

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understood, but it seems they use a combination of senses. In open water, they most likely use the earth’s magnetic field (as pigeons do) which they sense via particles of magnetite – magnetic material – in their lateral lines. Once close inshore, they home in on their natal river by smell, eventually finding the right one after a bit of trial and error.

This extraordinary life cycle has allowed the salmon to live and breed in its current range since the end of the last Ice Age, some 10,000 years ago. “There are various life history pathways they can follow,” explains Dr Richard Shelton, former Research Director at the Atlantic Salmon Trust and author of To Sea and Back. “Salmon procreation is a belt and braces business. Salmon of different ages and stages spawn together, and the upshot is that very few eggs are left unfertilised. Most eggs and young don’t survive, nor do most spawning grilse, so the whole thing looks like a wasteful mess, but it’s a successful strategy.”

SPORTING CHANCE This successful survival strategy means that salmon continue to provide valuable income for rural communities in Scotland. Since the advent of fish farming, the inshore netting operations that once dotted our coasts have all but disappeared. However, recreational angling is as popular as ever, with Scotland seen as the spiritual home of

www.scotoutdoors.com

salmon fishing – to such an extent that the image of a ghillie guiding his tweed-clad charge beside a glittering Highland river is as much a Scottish cliché as tartan and heilan’ coos.

The cultural and economic significance of salmon in Scotland is huge, reckons Brian Davidson, Operations Director at the Association of Salmon Fisheries Boards (ASFB) – the representative body of Scotland's 41 District Salmon Fishery Boards. “According to a recent study commissioned by the Scottish Government, salmon angling is worth well over £100 million a year and the knock-on income is far greater,” he says.

Salmon fishing is intrinsically linked with Scotland – to the point that it is widely considered to be the world's premier salmon angling destination. “This is because few countries offer the diversity of salmon fishing in terms of Scotland’s wide range of seasonal runs, geography, landscape and the individual character of rivers,” believes Davidson. “Also, very few countries have such a wide range of salmon habitats, from remote west coast streams to the impressively grand east coast rivers – and everything in between.”

And with the decline in heavy industry, lowland rivers are generally in better health, with even the Clyde seeing the return of salmon. In recent years, much has also been achieved by carefully planned habitat improvements, including obstacle removal and riparian habitat

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CONSERVATION • ATLANTIC SALMON

restoration. As Davidson says, “This is one area where the fisheries managers can make an active difference, and have been doing so.”

Though the key principle of salmon fisheries management remains much the same as in Victorian times – local, river by river management – the style has shifted significantly. Each river is still managed by fisheries boards, driven by the fishery owners who raise revenues among themselves and coordinate their actions. “The key difference these days is that we are much more reliant on good scientific data to inform management decisions,” explains Davidson.

Catch and release is now common practice, and enforced on most rivers for at least part of the season. This allows a river to generate an income – which funds a wide

“

“The numbers of salmon in the ocean have halved over the last 30 years, although the decline in returning spawners has been less marked because of marine fishery closures. Something is going wrong at sea,” asserts Malcolm Windsor at NASCO. “We have done everything else to ensure salmon survival. Twenty years ago, we believed the main threat to Atlantic salmon stocks was exploitation by distant-water interception fisheries that at their peak harvested around 3,000 tonnes or 30% of the total catch. That was the international problem facing NASCO at its inception in 1983. We have solved that one, gradually.”

Exploitation in the feeding grounds has now either ceased or been restricted to a subsistence harvest thanks to NASCO's inter-governmental convention to which all North Atlantic nations are party. In addition, coastal netting in Scotland and elsewhere has been greatly reduced, while salmon farming has taken the bottom out of demand for wild-caught Atlantic salmon. So, as Richard Shelton emphasises: “The question is, with virtually all marine exploitation halted, why are we not seeing more salmon returning?”

Such concern is echoed by Scotland’s fisheries boards, as Brian Davidson of ASFB explains: “Logic suggests we might expect to see a corresponding upward trend in rod catches now that there’s much less netting. Yet the numbers of rod-caught salmon appear simply stable – there has not been the corresponding upturn.” In fact, he says, Scotland has seen a gradual but serious decline in rod catches of spring salmon – fish that enter rivers early in the year – since the 1960s.

But why would this decline in ‘springers’ over the last 40 years be a cause for alarm if overall abundance seems good? It’s all about what they represent. “Spring-running salmon are invariably fish that have spent more than one season in the ocean,” explains Shelton. As such, their decline indicates that fewer fish are surviving multiple seasons at sea. “We’re seeing not only fewer spring salmon, but fewer big salmon. A decline in the proportion of older fish in the population is a classic symptom of increased

” Eye to eye (clockwise from above): seen up close, salmon have a remarkable sheen; fishing on the Tweed; researchers bring in a trawl; counting salmon ova; a research scientist with an adult salmon

range of actions, including fishery law enforcement and habitat improvement – without over-exploiting stocks.

Catch and release also sits well with the conservationminded younger generation of anglers.

At present, from an angler’s perspective, salmon stocks seem to be in reasonable shape in Scotland and numbers for recreational catches are stable; in fact, says Davidson, the numbers of catches recorded on some of our top salmon rivers, for example the Dee and Tweed, are looking particularly good this year. “Rod fishing is buoyant and figures for rod catches have been relatively steady over the last 40 years or so,” he notes.

LOST AT SEA Of course, the statistics for rod catches in Scotland’s rivers are not necessarily an accurate reflection of the overall health of the species. Speak to scientists and conservationists working with Atlantic salmon and the overwhelming feeling about the future of the species is one of concern.

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total mortality rate. The reason you don’t get so many big fish is that they are not surviving long enough at sea to grow large.”

Exactly why this is happening is not understood, but the reasons are likely to be complex. “There have been huge changes in marine climate, especially in the southern and western sectors of the salmon’s range, causing changes in the structure of the plankton which impacts on fish species,” explains Shelton. Both he and NASCO’s Malcolm Windsor also point to the possible problem of by-catch of salmon in large-scale pelagic fisheries targeting species such as mackerel and herring.

It is a mystery so deep and so pressing that NASCO launched a massive ocean-going research project, called SALSEA, in 2008. Using innovative trawl sampling, genetic techniques to determine the origin of fish sampled, sophisticated scale reading techniques to look at fine-scale growth patterns and acoustic tracking, SALSEA aims to improve understanding of migration and distribution of salmon at sea and the factors influencing them. Thousands of samples have been collected and work is now underway, in the final year of the project, to analyse and collate the data.

SALSEA’s conclusions will be unveiled in October 2011 at NASCO’s Salmon Summit.

Windsor is hopeful that SALSEA will provide some clues as to the fate of salmon at sea. Either way, it is an exceptional show of international commitment and cooperation: “This multi-million pound project, involving a public/ private partnership, could only have been staged as a multi-national effort,” he points out. “No single country could afford it.”

SALMON SPEAK The Atlantic salmon, Salmo salar, is anadromous, meaning it spends the majority of its life in the ocean, where it does most of its feeding and growing, and then migrates to freshwater to breed. It has various names depending on the stage in its life cycle: Alevin – newly-hatched offspring still feeding off the remainder of its yolk sac Fry – with fully developed gills and able to hunt, it starts venturing beyond the location where it hatched Parr – the final freshwater stage before preparing to leave the river system of its birth Smolt – the fish embarks on its ocean migration (having undergone the physiological changes necessary to live in a marine environment) Post-smolt – the fish in its first season at sea Grilse – a fish that returns to its home river to breed after just one winter feeding at sea Salmon – strictly speaking, has spent multiple winters at sea (multi seawinter fish). The breeding sexes are referred to as cock and hen Kelt – the fish after spawning, before returning to the sea. Most male kelt will not make it back to sea

HOME HAZARDS Whether or not the problems in its North Atlantic feeding grounds are man-made or not, the other known perils facing Scotland’s stocks certainly are. Ironically, salmon farming, the industry which rescued wild stocks from continued commercial exploitation by providing a seemingly limitless supply of fresh salmon at affordable prices, is now viewed by experts as a serious threat to wild fish.

“At the time when there were worries about the

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CONSERVATION • ATLANTIC SALMON

impact of high seas fisheries, the real breakthrough was the advent of fish farming,” explains Shelton. “But it has created other problems, one of the greatest being the enormous numbers of sea lice attracted by caged salmon. The clouds of lice larvae around the cages threaten postsmolt salmon as they head out to sea.”

This is a particular problem in the enclosed waters of sea lochs where water circulation is poorer. In Scotland, most fish farms have been located in the sea lochs of the west coast – a “sad legacy”, as Davidson puts it.

The other major concern around aquaculture is ‘genetic pollution’ by escapee fish. Because salmon home, they tend to form genetic sub-populations that are perfectly tuned and adapted to particular rivers or even sections of rivers. “The escapee farmed salmon – and they escape in enormous numbers – are not adapted in the same way, and risk polluting the gene pool of the wild, adapted fish,” says Shelton.

“The evidence we have from distinguished studies in Ireland is that farmed fish have an immediate advantage when breeding, because they are bigger,” adds Windsor.

“But the hybrid offspring are not as fit. That means a decline in fitness of stock in a particular river, and gradually that population loses its unique genetic adaptation to its home river.” This, of course, could spell disaster.

But while the true impact of such genetic pollution is unclear, experts are unanimous in their view that fish farming, as currently practised in Scotland, does the wild fish no favours. To make it truly sustainable, sites well away from salmon rivers and sea lochs need to be chosen, the density of fish in cages reduced and escapee numbers brought down to zero.

“The industry’s voluntary codes of practice seem to indicate a superficial desire to address these problems, but in reality nowhere near enough is being done,” says Davidson, adding that organisations including ASFB are lobbying for greater enforcement. “Politically there are major hurdles to overcome. Our parliamentarians on the whole largely view aquaculture as a benign income generator and job provider for rural coastal communities, but fail to see the immense ecological damage the industry has perpetrated on our West Coast stocks.”

The drive for green energy may also pose a hazard to salmon, say both Davidson and Shelton. “Large- and small-scale hydro schemes, and wind farms, are being heavily promoted by the Scottish Government – and

understandably so,” says Davidson. “But they do present challenges in terms of ecological impacts on our salmon and freshwater fish populations.”

Small-scale community hydro projects, in particular, are at risk of not properly assessing and mitigating their effect on fish. Fisheries boards and trusts continue to raise awareness of these issues to ensure enough resources are allocated to freshwater ecology in these schemes, says Davidson.

But, ultimately, as Richard Shelton emphasises, concerns relating to aquaculture and green energy development can be tackled, as can that of mackerel by-catch. After all, these problems are all known. In contrast, the precise reasons why Atlantic salmon are lost at sea – simply not surviving in their ocean environment as they should – remains a puzzle that has yet to be solved.

Until then, the future of this majestic species is far from certain. g

ESSENTIALS

FURTHER INFO

Salmon leaps

Falls of Shin, near Lairg, Sutherland

Though salmon running in Scotland’s rivers is not restricted to autumn, September to November is the prime time for watching salmon leaping up waterfalls, weirs and other obstacles. They are particularly active after heavy rain – especially when this follows a dry spell when the river levels have been low.

Visitor Centre and viewing platform. www.fallsofshin.co.uk

Buchanty Spout

Falls of Feugh, Banchory A short walk from the town centre, the bridge at the falls is a popular spot for watching leaping salmon.

Philiphaugh Estate, near Selkirk

On the River Almond near Crieff. Here you can get very close to the action.

A weir with fish ladder on the River Ettrick in the Borders. Live webcam, underwater cams and fish counter. www.salmonviewingcentre.com

The Hermitage, Dunkeld

Pitlochry fish ladder

A popular woodland walk beside the River Braan, just outside Dunkeld.

Fish ladder at the Pitlochry Dam, with glasspanelled observation chamber and fish counter.

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Close inspection: taking samples of a post smolt (top); a diseased salmon (above)

Association of Salmon and Fisheries Boards www.asfb.org.uk

Atlantic Salmon Trust

www.atlanticsalmontrust.org

SALSEA Project

www.salmonatsea.com

North Atlantic Salmon Conservation Organisation (NASCO) www.nasco.int

To Sea and Back – the Heroic Life of the Atlantic Salmon, Richard Shelton, Atlantic Books, 2009

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34-37_B_JURA_WINT10_Jura 29/11/2010 16:43 Page 34

ADVENTURE • JURA’S WEST COAST

A WILD AND GEOLOGICALLY RICH LANDSCAPE, THE WEST COAST OF JURA OFFERS SOME OF THE MOST CHALLENGING WALKING ANYWHERE IN SCOTLAND – PARTICULARLY WHEN THE WEATHER TURNS, DISCOVERS PETER EDWARDS

WHEN THE WIND BLOWS PHOTOGRAPHY: PETER EDWARDS; RICHARD ROWE; TIM HAYNES

T

HINK OF THE ISLE OF JURA and most people conjure images of the ‘Paps’, the three rounded hills that dominate the skyline from almost every direction. However, tucked away on the west coast of the island, unseen by most, is a hidden world of raised beaches, caves and twisted basalt dykes that form one of Scotland’s most fascinating – and unforgiving – landscapes.

Our plan was to trek this wild, uninhabited coast from the northern tip of the island down to Feolin Ferry, the usual jumping off point for those arriving from neighbouring Islay. However, the trip was almost over before it had begun. The Hebridean weather can be extremely unsettled at the end of October and my plan to venture along this particularly exposed part of Jura with my friends, Andy and Jen, was very nearly scuppered by gale force winds. We were due to make the crossing from Croabh Haven on the Argyll coast to Kinuachdrachd near Jura’s north-eastern tip but the poor forecast obliged our skipper, Duncan Philips from Farsain Cruises, to cancel with a big question mark hanging over the coming days.

Fortunately, the winds had died down sufficiently the following day and we were delivered to Kinuachdrachd with a few hours of daylight remaining. With little time

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to lose, we set off across the boggy terrain, aiming for the northern tip of the island high above the Gulf of Corryvreckan, a narrow strait between Jura and the nearby island of Scarba.

On arrival there was no sign of the famous Corryvreckan whirlpool – the third largest in the world after even more impressive examples in Norway’s Lofoten Islands and off the coast of Maine. The Corryvreckan only raises its hackles when a flood tide enters the strait from the west and is catalysed by a submerged pyramidal rock known as the 'Caillich' or Hag. Powered by the wind, the Hag can throw up a standing wave some 30 feet high and the roaring tumult can be heard from the mainland.

As the light faded, we descended with care to the west coast using paths worn by generations of deer and feral goats. Their tracks are generally worth following as they weave efficiently through the broken, rocky terrain below the cliffs, contour around hillsides and find the easiest route across bogs and raised beaches.

Having worked our way round to Bagh Gleann nam Muc without mishap, we pitched our tents above the shore in the dark and cooked the venison steaks bought earlier in Glasgow. Given that Jura is home to around 6,000 red deer this really was like bringing the proverbial coals to Newcastle.

Hard yards (clockwise from above): heading south along deer paths; views from a cave across Loch Tarbert; the Corryvreckan Whirlpool; the coastal landscape north of Ruantallain

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HEADING SOUTH Dawn arrived calm and reasonably clear, the rising sun lighting Scarba a fiery red as we struck camp and headed along the shore. Forging south over cobbled beaches and around sandy bays, the buckled, rust-hued bracken glowed in the morning light. Here, the wild coastline is garlanded with magnificent geological phenomena – raised beaches, sea caves, natural arches and rock stacks.

At every turn we startled up herds of red deer as well as tribes of wild goats grazing on kelp along the shore. Jura’s feral goats are reputedly descended from animals aboard shipwrecked galleons from the Spanish Armada, though their provenance is more likely from domestic animals abandoned by crofters in the mid-19th century.

After several hours spent weaving along the coastline, the red roof of Glengarrisdale bothy came in to view across Glengarrisdale Bay. Following a sinuous route beneath quartzite cliff faces before emerging onto the bay, we crossed the outflow of a river as it fanned out across the beach. Glengarrisdale Bay is the site of the last working croft on the west coast which was abandoned after the Second World War. Around this time, George Orwell, who was living at Barnhill near Kinuachdrachd on the east coast, came here for camping trips with his young son, Richard – navigating the Corryvreckan in his small boat to get here. I knew

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ADVENTURE • JURA’S WEST COAST

from past trips that the bothy is a wonderful place in which to stay, but on this occasion we had to make do with a quick brew before continuing on our way.

For much of the afternoon we kept to a route above the shore where sections of the coastline are impassable. It’s a magnificent landscape with views across the Firth of Lorn to Colonsay, lying supine on the horizon. However, hauling our heavy backpacks over the challenging terrain was beginning to take its toll and we were relieved to drop down a springy, peat-turfed incline towards the shore at Rubha Lagg Losguinn.

Back at sea level, we negotiated a path along a raised rock platform below the cliffs, much of it overlaid by raised beach deposits of large cobbles. It made for entertaining walking, but we were all a bit worn out by the time we arrived at Corpach Bay. Fortunately, with the tide out, we could walk along the sandy shore before eventually taking to the machair-like greensward above the beach and continuing around to the far end of the bay at Traigh a' Mhiadair. It was a perfect bivouac spot with a burn nearby, plentiful driftwood and – crucially, as we were to discover – a sheltered position.

We pitched our tents, gathered plenty of driftwood and got a roaring blaze going. Later, having eaten, we sat with a dram gazing into the flames until at last the fire burned down to embers and we clambered into our tents. After a

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tough day's walk, a good night's sleep was keenly anticipated, but it wasn't to be: the wind returned with a vengeance and soon began to tug and shake at our tents in violent gusts.

Worried that our lightweight tents would be shredded, none of us slept a wink.

AND THEN THE RAIN By dawn, the howling wind had been joined by driving rain.

It was not a place to linger, so we struck camp and sought shelter in a huge rock arch to brew and eat breakfast before contemplating the day’s walk to the shelter of Ruantallain bothy at the mouth of Loch Tarbert.

The environmental artist Julie Brook lived in this very rock arch for an entire year in the early nineties. Julie had supplies delivered by fishing boat and aside from occasional forays into Craighouse – the sole village on the island – she lived a solitary existence with only her cat for company. As well as a number of large impressionistic paintings, Julie produced ephemeral sculptural pieces including ‘firestacks’– driftwood fires set on top of stacks made up of large pebbles at low tide, which turned into floating islands of fire as the tide came in.

Thankfully, given the atrocious conditions, Ruantallain was only a three-hour walk away. Summoning the necessary resolve we battled our way out into the wind and lashing rain. The weather was so wild there was no hope of keeping

Sitting pretty (clockwise from above): enjoying a driftwood fire; wild goat; a moment of calm at Glengarrisdale bothy; red deer are everywhere on Jura; a classic raised beach; looking north across Traigh a' Mhiadair and Corpach Bay

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“ ” dry, but safe in the knowledge that we would soon reach shelter, it was strangely exhilarating.

Stumbling along, we again startled up herds of red deer at close quarters, before trying to cross the seething outflow of the Eas Allt an Tairbh below the magnificent stepped waterfall at Sliabh Allt an Tairbh. The heavy rainfall had transformed the burn into a raging torrent and the water level was very high. Fording the burn proved impossible and so we followed it upstream until we could find a safe crossing point.

We soon emerged onto the magnificent sandy crescent of Shian Bay and the walking became considerably easier.

Shian Bay is a wonderful spot, but we had eyes only for the shelter of Ruantallain bothy. Leaving the bay behind, we abandoned the shoreline and continued on elevated ground a few hundred yards back from the coast. This stretch offers some of the easiest walking on the west coast through yet more remarkable landscape of huge raised beaches and dark, peaty lochans.

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The raised beaches along Jura's west coast are the result of a phenomenon geologists describe as ‘glacio-isostatic uplift’. At the end of the last glacial period, the sea level rose as the ice cap covering the island retreated. Freed from the weight of the ice, the land rebounded and continued to rise long after the sea level had reached its maximum height, stranding once-submerged caves, rock arches and beaches high above the water line.

At last, having been buffeted by wind and rain every step of the way, we dropped down through glacial cliffs to the bothy. Startled stags stampeded away along the shore of Loch Tarbert and a feathered monster the size of a pterodactyl lifted off from a nearby rock: a sea eagle. We gazed after this magnificent bird with its unmistakable white tail feathers before taking shelter in the bothy.

By late afternoon, the wind and rain had eased so we were able to venture out and explore the bothy’s environs. In autumn, grey seals haul out around Ruantallain to have their pups and we soon encountered several wide-eyed animals tucked away along the rocky shore, watched over by anxious parents.

FINAL PUSH That night, stretching out on the bothy’s three ancient iron bed frames, we slept the

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sleep of the righteous. We were up before dawn, however, packing our kit and preparing for the walk ahead. We were aiming for Glenbatrick Bay just two miles across Loch Tarbert as the crow flies, but which in reality involves negotiating 15 miles of very rough terrain along the north and south shores of what is a deeplyindented sea loch.

Setting off east along the shore, and with the day thankfully calm and clear, we soon encountered more seal pups. Andy pointed out a black-furred pup that seemed to have been deliberately settled among some black rocks while the more usual white-furred pups were tucked away among the paler quartzite rocks along the shore.

We soon gained a rock platform below the cliffs and weaved a route along yet more broken, rocky terrain, clambering through notches in the natural walls formed by basalt dykes. This stretch of the coast is full of interesting geological phenomena including numerous caves, but the going can be very tough with a lot of awkward terrain underfoot and a few precarious rocky sections to scramble around. Jen had acquired a couple of nasty blisters the previous day and although she kept it to herself it was costing her some pain to manage on the uneven ground.

After a couple of hours walking, we took to the low hills above the loch where it becomes estuarine. The hinterland can be very boggy here and we attempted to avoid the wettest ground as we headed for Cruib Lodge bothy, our first objective. A river crossing had to be made at Garbh Uisge – or 'rough water' – where the heavy rain had swollen the volume of water thundering down to the shore. We removed our packs and hurled them and then ourselves over to the far side.

Soon after, we arrived at Cruib Lodge bothy and it became immediately apparent that Jen's feet were too badly blistered for her to continue. The game was up. We agreed to stay the night at the bothy and then walk the four miles out to the road at the head of Loch Tarbert the following day.

Our final afternoon was spent half way up a nearby wooded gorge, washing in a freezing pool and gathering dead wood for a fire. Later, thick black rain clouds passed over Cruib, the mountain that rises to the rear of the bothy, and as the sun emerged from beneath them the landscape was lit up in fiery orange hues and a huge rainbow arched above us. It was a fitting end to a journey we vowed to return to and complete another day. g

Rocky road: one of many basalt dykes along the route (above); grey seal pup (below left); a bracing swim to end the trip

FURTHER INFO

FURTHER READING

There are several ways to reach Jura. Farsain Cruises (Tel: 01852 500664) operates a water taxi service from Craobh Haven Marina to Kinuachdrachd, while a small passenger ferry runs a seasonal (April to September) service between Tayvallich and Craighouse. Advance reservations should be made (Tel: 07768 450000). Finally, Caledonian MacBrayne (www.calmac.co.uk) provides a large ferry service between Kennacraig on the mainland and Islay (arriving at either Port Askaig or Port Ellen). There is a short onward ferry crossing from Port Askaig to Feolin Ferry.

Walking on Jura, Islay and Colonsay, Peter Edwards Scotland Outdoors readers can buy a copy of Walking on Jura, Islay and Colonsay for just £10.00 (including free p&p). Buy online from www.cicerone.co.uk and simply add the voucher code JURA on the shopping basket page.

For much more on the wider island, visit www.jurainfo.com

On the island Those without transport can make use of the connecting Jura Bus Service which runs from Feolin Ferry to Ardlussa, some 22 miles along the coast.

Safety Walking on the west coast of Jura is rarely less than challenging and should not be undertaken lightly.

Make sure that you are properly prepared and equipped. Unsurprisingly for an island so full of deer, ticks are ubiquitous from early spring through to late autumn and are often picked up when walking through bracken and long grass. Wearing shorts increases your chances of picking up passengers. Ticks can carry Lyme disease, which can become seriously debilitating if left undiagnosed.

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Scotland Outdoors Winter 2010

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The Inn offers the perfect getaway from the hustle and bustle of city life. Mobile phones don’t work in the building and we don’t have televisions.

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PHOTOGRAPHY: ROYAL DEESIDE DMO/PAUL MACKIE; CAIRNWELL MOUNTAIN SPORTS

Explore Deeside Deeside – or ‘Royal’ Deeside as it is often referred to – in some ways represents the hidden side of the Cairngorms. It is close to Aberdeen, so sees plenty of visitors, but nothing like the crowds that charge up the A9 to the Aviemore side.

But that’s no bad thing from a visitor’s point of view. Deeside has a calmer, more genteel feel to it – and not just because of Balmoral and its wider associations with the Royal Family. Lining the length of the sublime River Dee, from Braemar through to Banchory and beyond, the villages and towns are enchanting places to while away time – all enveloped in a bucolic landscape of rolling hills, moorland, forest and hidden lochs.

However, Deeside also does rugged, as anyone who has explored the mountains of the Mounth will testify, while the great peak of Lochnagar – often tackled from Glen Muick – stands toe to toe with anything on offer View finder (from top): elsewhere in the Cairngorms. looking across the Invercauld Estate from Deeside is one of those places where it’s Auchtavan; walking trails hard to know where to start, but you could at the Muir of Dinnet; do worse than explore lovely Glen Tanar on the Balmoral Castle; larking about at Glenshee south side of the Dee. Home to one of Scotland’s largest expanses of old Caledonian pinewoods, special wildlife and trails for days – including long-distance routes over to the Angus Glens – this atmospheric glen has much to offer.

And it is here that we begin our own exploration with a look not just at the landscape and wildlife of the area, but also how the Glen Tanar Estate works to marry sporting interests with that of nature conservation.

It’s a tough balancing act at times, but one that this progressive estate has proved adept at managing.

We then highlight some of the many activities and experiences that can be enjoyed in the area, from visiting remarkable glacial features to hill running, skiing, Nordic walking and wildlife safaris. Deeside is blessed with a particularly rich concentration of outdoor operators, all with the kind of expertise and passion that can turn a good trip into a truly memorable one. g

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EXPLORE • DEESIDE

Estate of mind

TUCKED AWAY ON SOUTH DEESIDE, GLEN TANAR IS HOME TO ONE OF SCOTLAND’S MOST PRISTINE EXAMPLES OF OLD CALEDONIAN FOREST – AND A PROGRESSIVE ESTATE THAT INTENDS TO KEEP IT THAT WAY, DISCOVERS RICHARD ROWE PHOTOGRAPHY: RICHARD ROWE; LORNE GILL/SNH; GLEN TANAR RANGER SERVICE

H

alfway up a steep track, one that even the Land Rover struggles with for a moment, we stop at a clearing – the Knockie Viewpoint – to savour a scene that underlines just why this part of Deeside is so special. Layers of heavily-wooded hills retreat into the distance for almost as far as the eye can see, before the trees gradually thin and give way to a further sweep of heather moorland that extends to the very highest peaks. It’s a big view in a big part of the country.

This is Glen Tanar, a long, picturesque glen – and National Nature Reserve – that cuts into the hills south of the River Dee midway between Ballater and Aboyne. It is an ancient right of way that will be familiar to walkers who have made the long trek over the exposed Mounth Road to Mount Keen – the most easterly of the Munros – and down into the Angus Glens. With more than 100 miles of tracks to explore, it is a paradise for anyone who

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wants to lose themselves for a day or two.

We are here on a wildlife safari arranged by the Glen Tanar Estate as part of the first Royal Deeside Venison Festival – a week-long celebration of a gastronomic treat that is in plentiful supply in these parts. We hope to see deer while exploring the woodland and surrounding hills, but for now are content to gaze quietly over a forest of Scots pine, birch, aspen and alder.

The silence is broken by Colin McCLean, the estate’s Wildlife Manager and our guide for the day. “The glen has tremendous nature conservation value,” he explains. “There is commercial plantation here too, but the protected forest you are looking at is about as old as anywhere in Scotland.”

That it is still here at all is in part thanks to the estate’s history of ownership. The current owners are the fourth generation of a family that has presided over it since 1905 when

Glen Tanar was bought by George Coats, later Lord Glentanar, the owner of a Paisley cotton firm. He must have had friends in high places. While a great deal of similar habitat in Scotland was lost through logging and the demand for timber during the world wars, Lord Glentanar was able to preserve much of the old growth forest. Today, the estate covers some 25,000 acres, around a quarter of which is old growth forest.

One key objective on the estate is the natural regeneration of the old forest – and that means maintaining a low density of deer. As McCLean explains, the animals do enter the woodland in small numbers, but are largely kept out thanks to a fence that stretches for 15 miles around its perimeter. “We see a pretty good harmony here between sporting and conservation interests with a higher density of deer on the open hill for sport and low in the forest for conservation,” he says.

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Taking it all in (clockwise from opposite): enjoying the views at the head of the glen; swathes of old forest; red deer stags; one for the game dealer

Stalking, of course, remains a vital source of income for many estates and an important means of maintaining the health of a herd in the absence of natural predators. Stag stalking, in particular, is very much about timing. In August and September, when stags are preparing for the annual rut, the animals are in prime condition, but come late October the rigours of the rut ensure that they are shadows of their former selves.

“A stag in August and the first half of September couldn’t get much better in terms of meat quality, but a stag in the first half of October couldn’t get much worse,” explains McCLean. “They go downhill pretty quickly.

The price we get for venison also declines at that time and most game dealers won’t touch them by then.”

Earlier, the carnivores amongst us had received what was, in this age of supermarket sanitation, an important reminder that in order for us to eat meat, something must die.

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As we stood inside the open doorway of the estate’s deer larder, a shaft of light shone on the freshly-butchered carcass of a red deer hind that had been shot that very morning.

The beast, one of around 350 red and roe deer shot on the estate each year, was now hanging upside down, skin still on, labelled and ready for the game dealer.

ANIMAL MAGIC Back on the track, the Land Rover climbing steadily through the trees, we pass a huge Wellingtonia planted in the 1870s by a former estate owner. The tree dwarfs the surrounding Scots pines which, despite being a good 50 years older, are much slower growing.

It is in these more remote parts of the forest that much of the estate’s wildlife monitoring takes place – although you still have to be lucky to see some of the more secretive denizens of the woods. “There are big chunks of the place where, weekends aside, you don’t see anyone here at all, which really benefits the wildlife,” says McCLean.

In addition to around 700 head of deer, the forest and surrounding moorland is home to golden eagle, Scottish crossbill and hen

harrier – the presence of the latter a nod to the estate’s enlightened approach to birds of prey. Deeside as a whole is also something of a stronghold for red squirrel, and no more so than in Glen Tanar; the same applies to black grouse which are here in abundance, although the same cannot be said for their much larger cousin, the capercaillie.

“They have really struggled, despite significant efforts to conserve them,” admits McCLean. During the past breeding season, the estate was down to just two displaying males, which mirrors a wider decline across much of Deeside. “There is a very real fear of local extinction in the area, which is strange given how much better they are doing over in Speyside,” he adds.

A huge woodland grouse – think turkeysized birds with attitude in the case of males – capercaillie have a tendency to fly fast and low when disturbed, making them susceptible to fence strikes. However, with the deer fence far enough away from the forest, it is not thought to pose a problem in this case. And where it does enter the forest, the fence is marked so that the birds can see it, says McCLean.

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Instead, the main problem has been the poor weather in recent springs – a time when chicks can become chilled on wet ground. “It could also be that the terrain and conditions here simply suits predators more than the prey,” ponders McCLean. “Over the last 10 years, for instance, pine martens have come back in a big way. They are likely to add to the capercaillie’s problems.”

During the autumn months, pine martens feast on an abundance of rowan berries and their brightly-coloured droppings can be seen all around. To illustrate just how prevalent they are in the area, McCLean mentions his work monitoring Scottish wildcats. “One way to find wildcats is to set up a camera trap on a tree alongside a dead pheasant and see what comes along,” he explains. “If you put a camera out here, you’ll have a pine marten at it within a week, but there are now very few wildcats, sadly.”

FIRE HAZARD Rounding a corner, we pass a deep pond cut in a small clearing, its outflow channelled beneath the track via a drainage culvert.

“One of the things we are nervous about when managing a forest of this size and importance is fire,” says McCLean.

The pond is one of a network of fire dams dug throughout the forest; the estate is also kitted out with pumps and machines to move large volumes of water around, but the key weapon against fire in terrain like this is a helicopter, usually scrambled from Inverness.

The fire dams are designed so that a bucket can be lowered from the sky, scoop up a tonne or so of water and head off to the fire.

Glen Tanar had a helicopter to thank a few years ago when a major fire threatened to burn a large area of forest. “It was lit by someone managing heather for grouse and they didn’t realise how dry it was,” recalls McCLean. The fire quickly took hold, burning

“HELICOPTERS ARE A KEY WEAPON AGAINST FIRE IN THIS TERRAIN” several trees at the edge of the forest before threatening to jump into the canopy. “That’s very dangerous, the trees become like torches. Luckily the helicopter put the fire out quite quickly together with about 150 people fighting it on the ground.”

The risk of fire notwithstanding, grouse shooting on the heather-bound hills beyond the forest remains another important source of revenue for the estate. The past season has been particularly productive for grouse, generating the kind of money that can make the difference between a loss-making enterprise and a profitable one. “It’s hugely valuable to estates in this area,” says McCLean.

So, why have grouse done so well this year?

The hard winter helped to reduce ticks, parasites and predators, he believes, although

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numbers have been building for a while.

Interestingly in these straitened times, shooting them remains as popular as ever. “People love grouse shooting, but it’s a rich man’s sport, there’s no two ways about it,” concedes McCLean. “It has its downsides, but does bring in a lot of money and supports jobs, so I don’t find it wrong.”

What he does find wrong, however, is when the management of grouse moors is tied with illegal practices, such as the killing of birds of prey. “One of the things we are trying to do here is have the two live in harmony. But it’s difficult. Eagles and hen harriers do take a lot of grouse, but these birds have a place in Scotland and should be here.”

To steer aerial predators away from grouse,

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Forest life (clockwise from opposite below): Scots pine seedling; pine marten numbers have increased; red squirrels are often seen; the skeleton of a fallen pine; Glen Tanar's well-stocked trout loch

the estate feeds eagles with deer carcasses during the winter and hen harriers with dayold chicks from battery hen farms during the breeding season. “It seems to be working, or at least it did last year. We want to manage these conflicts in a constructive way rather than doing anything illegal.”

For someone who works on both the nature conservation and sporting sides of the estate, McCLean is keenly aware of the bitterness – and often entrenched views – that exists between the two camps. “It is one

of the major fault lines in the countryside and I would like to help resolve such conflict in a small way. I work on both sides and there are huge similarities between the two jobs, but sadly the different sides don’t recognise that.”

GOOD FISHING Having dropped down off The Strone, a landmark hill to the south of the estate, we are now alongside the Water of Allachy, a tributary of the Tanar and an important spawning ground for salmon and sea trout at this time of year.

Clear, cold and fast-flowing, it looks the picture of health and is perhaps one contributing factor behind what McCLean says has

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EXPLORE • DEESIDE

been an excellent year for fishing on the nearby Dee. With fishing rights along some 14 miles of the river, salmon fishing is the estate’s biggest single source of revenue, with fishing parties often returning during the same week every year for decades.

“I don’t know why but in spring we were catching huge numbers of fish when many rivers in Scotland weren’t catching any at all.

We don’t know for sure what we are doing right and it could possibly all change, but for now the fishing is fantastic for us.”

And not just for humans. During spawning time, otters patrol the shallows looking for salmon, while herons follow the fish upstream to pick them off from the banks. We keep our eyes peeled for both, spotting a heron later much higher up the hill, but there is no sign of any otters.

We soon cross the Allachy and then the Tanar itself, passing several walkers along the way, before heading west along the main track that leads out of the forest and up to the base of Mount Keen. “There was a good metre of snow on this road last winter, so we spent most of our time on skis and snowshoes,” recalls McCLean.

Free from the embrace of the forest, the landscape is suddenly very different with grand views over bare, open moorland. This is where we stand a better chance of spying deer. As our eyes slowly begin to relax and with the aid of high-powered stalker’s binoculars, we spot a handful of animals, most of them beating a hasty retreat.

However, evidence of their presence is all around. Down by the Tanar, we can see the beginnings of more forest where the estate has planted broadleaved saplings, their trunks encased in plastic sheaths to protect them

from hungry mouths. Elsewhere, by the stonewalled outline of an old drovers’ inn near the head of the glen, the hillsides are striped with tracks worn by the animals during grazing sorties to and from the valley floor.

And up ahead, beyond a shiny new footbridge over the Tanar, looms Mount Keen – the isolated prize that draws most people this far up the glen. It has to be said that, after the beauty of the forest, it’s no looker; bleak and bare-backed, its summit is reached via an ever-widening track that runs like a scar up its flank.

It’s steep and hard going, but on a clear day the summit offers plenty of reward, with panoramic views over the surrounding Mounth plateau. But in truth my heart was still in the forest – an intricate, aged otherworld that I already planned to return to and explore on foot the following day. g

Exploring Glen Tanar A network of circular trails branch out from the Braeloine Visitor Centre on the estate road into Glen Tanar. All are numbered and marked on a trails guide available at the centre.

CHAPEL (1 mile) – a walk across the valley to the old chapel of St Lesmo, returning downstream along the riverbank.

FAIRY LOCHAN (3 miles) – a stroll past Fairy Lochan before rejoining the Water of Tanar via a ridge and then a return upstream along the riverbank.

KNOCKIE VIEWPOINT (2 miles) – another route across the valley, this time through woods of larch and Scots pine, emerging to fantastic views over the old forest.

OLD PINES (5 miles) – a longer walk that continues upstream through the old pine forest before crossing the Tanar and its tributary, the Allachy, by Victorian bridges.

JUNIPER (0.5 mile) – a short, all-abilities route to a viewpoint on a smooth surface with ample seats along the way.

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Moorland crossroads: walkers can take their pick (above); Colin McClean with a particularly impressive specimen (below); walkers enjoying the low-level trails

Further info LONGER ROUTES (ALSO SUITABLE FOR MOUNTAIN BIKES) STRONE CIRCUIT (8 miles) – from the Knockie Viewpoint follow the Firmounth (an old drove road) around the Strone. Directions are straightforward: always take the right hand fork, and it will bring you back to the river which can then be followed downstream to Braeloine.

RED CRAIG (14 miles) – follow the Tanar upstream past Etnach, cross at the ford, then head uphill with Red Craig and Black Craig on your left.

Staying on the track, head northeast with Clachan Yell on your left. Consider also deviating up the steep slopes of Clachan Yell – a hill with superb views and the inspiration behind the name of one of Scotland’s most rocking ceilidh bands.

MOUNT KEEN (19 miles) – the biggy. Follow the Tanar upstream through old Scots pine forest and out onto heather moorland. It’s a good six miles just to the base of Mount Keen, so a mountain bike is a good option here. Choose a clear day for magnificent views from the summit (and an early start in winter).

Three miles southwest of Aboyne, Glen Tanar is reached along the B976 South Deeside road.

Access to the estate is from the tower at Bridge o’ Ess close to where the Tanar enters the Dee. Glen Tanar is a perfect spot for day visits, with horse riding and Land Rover safaris available in addition to excellent walking, mountain biking and sporting activities. The Braeloine Visitor Centre is manned by a full-time ranger service and provides interpretation on the history, management and wildlife of the estate. Winter opening hours: 10am-5pm (except Tuesdays and Wednesdays). For longer stays, the estate offers a choice of six self-catering holiday cottages. www.glentanar.co.uk rangerglentanar.blogspot.com

Scotland Outdoors Winter 2010

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EXPLORE • DEESIDE

Down by the Dee WITH BALMORAL A FAMOUS PRESENCE, MUCH IS MADE OF DEESIDE’S ROYAL CONNECTIONS, BUT THIS QUIETER SIDE OF THE CAIRNGORMS ALSO HAS LOTS TO OFFER WHEN IT COMES TO OUTDOOR FUN. HERE ARE JUST PHOTOGRAPHY: RUNNING THE HIGHLANDS; LORNE GILL/SNH; WWW.TONYMARSHPHOTOGRAPHY.COM; DEESIDE ACTIVITY PARK; NEIL BAIN; JOHN MACPHERSON A FEW SUGGESTIONS

Run, explore, learn WITH ITS relatively forgiving hills and abundance of forest and moorland tracks, Deeside is a wonderful place for off-road running. Running The Highlands, based in Ballater, offers a range of breaks, tours and training weekends that are suitable for everyone from complete beginners to top club competitors.

Specially tailored breaks, which include additional fitness options such as massage therapy and nutritional advice, offer a

fantastic opportunity to get to know the area – usually with a new run every day taking people to places that they just wouldn’t find by themselves. Not surprisingly, training weekends held at Balmoral Estate are also extremely popular and include special presentations from some of the top names in running. “We stay in staff accommodation and have the run of the place,” says owner Neil Stewart.

“People don’t want to leave at the end.”

And for those who like a real challenge, how about trying the recently introduced Run across Scotland – a five-day, 85-mile run from Inverness to the Skye Bridge.

FURTHER INFO Running The Highlands also organises the new St James’s Place Foundation Balmoral Half Marathon – billed as one of the world’s most scenic half marathons. The 2011 event will be held on 4 June. www.runningthehighlands.com

Visit a Vat CARVED BY glacial melt water, Burn o’ Vat is a remarkable geological feature tucked away within the Muir of Dinnet National Nature Reserve – itself a pristine area of woods, lochs and wetland close to Dinnet village.

Accessed through a narrow fissure in the rocks through which a burn still flows, the Vat is a cauldron-shaped pothole with a waterfall at one end. Now open to the sky, this perfectly sculptured bowl was formed by the grinding of rocks carried by an unseen stream beneath a vast glacier that once covered the land. As well as appreciating the power of melt water in creating such a feature, the acoustics are amazing and it’s a wonderful place to sit quietly and listen to the water burbling between the rocks.

FURTHER INFO The Vat is a short stroll from the Muir of Dinnet visitor centre – the starting point for many other lovely walks in the area. www.nnr-scotland.org.uk

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Explore on two wheels BALLATER-BASED Cyclehighlands is not only one of the best bike shops in the area, but also offers guiding for riders who want to explore Deeside’s hidden singletrack.

Guiding winds down a little during the winter months, but Cyclehighlands still runs days out for more advanced riders in the Ballater and Balmoral areas.

“Customers are also encouraged to join our local mountain bike club which is a great way to find secret singletrack and stunning viewpoints rarely seen by the tourist,” says owner Richard Watts.

While the area is fantastic for the more serious cross-country mountain biker, guided rides suitable for families, novice and intermediate riders are also available most weekends from spring through to autumn. Guides choose a pace and route to suit, so you won’t be left puffing at the back.

FURTHER INFO Look out too for special events throughout the year, including the Summer Solstice Mountainbike (pictured) which sees participants ride across Deeside through the night. www.cyclehighlands.com

Walk the line YET ANOTHER way to explore Deeside is to step out with a knowledgeable guide who will not only be able to show you the best walking trails in the area but also help interpret the landscape and wildlife that is all around. WalkDeeside offers a range of guided day walks and walking holidays as well as more specialised activities and courses, including mountain navigation and Nordic walking. The emphasis is very much on offering a personal service, discovering secret places and bringing the outdoors to life.

The company also works with the John Muir Trust to deliver the John Muir Award – an environmental scheme focussed on encouraging awareness and responsibility for wild places and the natural environment.

Try something new DIFFICULT TO MISS given that its entrance is marked by an old British Army tank, Deeside Activity Park sits within 100 acres of rolling countryside near the village of Lumphanan. The park offers a bewildering array of activities for young and old, from quad bike trekking (pictured) to fly fishing and indoor climbing on a bouldering wall.

Also, new for this winter is the chance to try the centre’s Mattracks Powerboards – a kind of motorised snowboard. Don’t forget to also check out the onsite farm shop, and the nearby Deeside Brewery.

FURTHER INFO www.deesideactivitypark.com www.deesidebrewery.co.uk

FURTHER INFO In addition to holidays and courses run locally, WalkDeeside offers international expeditions to destinations such as India, Morocco, Tanzania and Peru. www.walkdeeside.com

www.scotoutdoors.com

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EXPLORE • DEESIDE

Wildlife safaris A PLACE of legend and lore, the Braemar area of Deeside is also a great spot for experiencing some of Scotland’s most celebrated wildlife. Neil Bain at Braemar Highland Safaris offers a highly personal guiding service that takes small groups along Land Rover tracks and old drovers’ trails into the heart of the mountains.

The trips – mainly on the Invercauld and Dinnet estates – are ideal for those who are not necessarily able to stomp into the mountains under their own steam, or have simply never experienced such landscapes before. You have every chance of spotting red and roe deer, mountain hare, red and black grouse, red squirrel and golden eagle as well as learning more about the history and folklore of the area.

FURTHER INFO Prices start at £30 for a set three-hour tour, although bespoke trips can also be arranged. www.braemarhighlandsafaris.co.uk

Strap on the planks OK, SO WE DON’T have the long, cruising runs of larger resorts overseas, but when conditions are on song, skiing in Scotland can be as good as anywhere. Although not technically on Deeside, the ski centres at Glenshee and Lecht 2090 are near enough to make no difference. Both enjoyed fantastic conditions last winter – the Lecht saw 110 ski days – and will be hoping for the same again this year.

With nearly 25 miles (40km) of pisted runs, 20 lifts and more than 35 runs on either side of the Cairnwell pass, Glenshee offers the most extensive skiing in Scotland.

There is something here to test even the most serious skiers and boarders. Meanwhile, the Lecht at Strathdon in the eastern Cairngorms is particularly suited for family, intermediate and beginner skiers. Complete novices can take advantage of a ‘magic carpet’ lift – a kind of snowy ‘conveyor belt’ that transports beginners up to the nursery slopes without having to negotiate tricky tows.

Both offer a ski school, plus equipment for hire.

However, unless you don’t mind a long wait, it’s best to arrive early (or book online) if planning to rent gear on busy weekends.

FURTHER INFO www.ski-glenshee.co.uk; www.lecht.co.uk

ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE

ACCOMMODATION

BY CAR Deeside is just a short drive from Aberdeen

Accommodation on Deeside is as rich and varied as its scenery. At the budget end of the scale are a range of hostels and bunkhouses (www.cairngormshostels.co.uk). For a real outof-the-way experience, try Jenny’s Bothy at Corgaff

by Strathdon, or the five-star Habitat @ Ballater (www.habitat-at-ballater.com).

and easily accessible from elsewhere. From the south, there are two options, both beautiful: the A93 trunk road from Perth to Aberdeen that heads through Glenshee and the B974 Cairn O’Mount road that descends into the Dee Valley near Banchory. If travelling from the north, there are two equally scenic routes: the A939 and A944 from Inverness to Aberdeen that travels over the Lecht, plus the A941 from Elgin that heads into Strathdon via Speyside’s famed whisky country.

BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT Aberdeen is the hub for transport to and from the area. Rail operator First Group (www.firstgroup.com/scotrail) offers Rail Bus tickets that include onward bus travel to the main Deeside towns and villages. Most local bus services into Deeside are operated by Stagecoach Bluebird (www.stagecoachbus.com). Finally, Aberdeen Airport is served by a variety of scheduled airlines covering a good range of UK and European airports.

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At the other end of the scale, treat yourself to a night or two at Glendavan House (www.glendavanhouse.com) near Dinnet. On offer are some extremely plush room suites and the warmest, most gracious welcome imaginable.

FOLLOW THE FOODIE TRAIL Deeside (and the wider northeast) is justifiably famous for the quality of its produce and there is no shortage of farm shops, restaurants and artisan producers that showcase the area’s fantastic natural larder. October saw the inaugural Royal Deeside Larder Venison Festival (www.tinyurl.com/3abkt3y) while the area even has its own foodie magazine.

One special foodie destination is the Finzean Farm Shop off the South Deeside road near Banchory.

It’s tucked away, but well worth the detour. www.finzean.com

ROYAL CONNECTIONS Deeside is of course home to Balmoral (www.balmoralcastle.com), the Queen’s summer home. Winter guided tours are available, while there are many other castles to explore nearby including Braemar, Crathes and Drum.

AND FOR SOMETHING DIFFERENT Those looking for a very different outdoor experience should spend a day with Bushcraft Ventures whose founder and head instructor, Lawrence Clark, served his apprenticeship with Ray Mears. www.bushcraftventures.co.uk For much more on exploring Deeside and the wider Cairngorms, visit www.discoverroyaldeeside.com www.visitcairngorms.com

Scotland Outdoors Winter 2010

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LEARNING THE ROPES

ELLEN HOMEWOOD PREPS HER SNOW AND ICE SKILLS IN TORRIDON AHEAD OF WHAT WILL HOPEFULLY BE ANOTHER SPECTACULAR WINTER WALKING SEASON PHOTOGRAPHY:

L

NINEONESIX.CO.UK

IKE MANY FOLK who tolerate living in the city by getting out of it as often as possible, I spend most weekends between May and September enjoying various activities on the hill, typically in the form of running.

However, I’ve found it hard to meet these needs during the four winters I’ve lived in Scotland. Although I’ve blamed this on the short days that limit the time available, in truth my inactivity has been due to not knowing which way round to tie my gaiters and hold an ice axe.

Inspiration struck earlier this year when I happened across details of a Scottish Youth Hostels Association winter skills course – the perfect solution for opening up a whole new season of adventure. Duly kitted up, I drove to Torridon Youth Hostel one Friday night in late March to join three other walkers who had also signed up for the course run by Jim Sutherland from local company nineonesix-guiding.

One of my very first holidays in Scotland was to Gairloch when I naively attempted a contour of Beinn Alligin armed only with a book of hill walks and an even greener fiancé. The mem-

52

ory of being lost in such wild terrain has stayed with me and driven my later exploration of the Scottish hills. So it felt apt to return to the same territory to learn the skills necessary to avoid further navigational mistakes.

Tongues loosened by a warming cup of tea, we compared our levels (or lack) of skill and hill familiarity. The group included a father from Doncaster and his student son who were familiar with Scottish hill walking from family holidays and they regaled us with memories of their last trip to Torridon a decade earlier.

However, their kit was as old and familiar as their enthusiasm and their boots were condemned as unsuitable for the expedition.

Fortunately, Jim was able to rustle up spare footwear and crampons. I didn’t like to ask how he had managed to accumulate such a range of boots of different sizes – they clearly weren’t all for his feet.

The fourth participant for the weekend had travelled from East Anglia on an epic journey that tested the reliability of Highland public transport. Jim eyed the ice axe he had brought with amused interest: it turned out to be a family relic that had been gathering dust in the flatter regions where its owner lived. This participant was the only group member who had any real climbing experience involving ropes and belays.

By comparison, my knowledge of technical climbing was limited to a handful of evenings at Glasgow’s Ibrox climbing centre. I’d found it difficult to get passionate about indoor climbing,

Scotland Outdoors Winter 2010

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STEPPING OUT • WINTER SKILLS

preferring instead to be footloose and fancy free on the hill but it had become clear that this approach compromised my ability to access harder-to-reach summits and limited my explorations to the summer months.

So, we seemed similarly matched in fitness, enthusiasm and lack of experience in dealing with winter conditions. After the kit check, the plan was agreed for the next day’s teaching, with Jim emphasising the need for an early rise.

FIRST STEPS By 8.30am the next morning, with the ridge up to Beinn Eighe stretching high above us, our party of five had tramped up the stalker’s path into Coire an Laoigh. The bowl was lined by a satisfyingly crusty layer of snow following weeks of especially cold weather. As a hill runner, the uphill trek felt like a familiar challenge and I felt quietly smug at being able to set the pace and mark out the steps which the men behind me stamped into.

My comparatively speedy ascent allowed me to take in our surroundings while waiting for the others to catch up; we were almost entirely circled by steep, snow-covered walls. I awaited Jim’s arrival and explanation of avalanche conditions with bated breath.

Jim offered instruction on the many strange ways of snow, demonstrating how to identify avalanche risk by assessing its density and layering. As he explained, it pays to study how the snow has fallen and gathered as a consequence of wind direc-

www.scotoutdoors.com

tion, the geography of the hills, plus the Action stations (from appearance of the actual snow crystals. opposite left): learning the Next, we received a demonstration of art of self-arrest, ice axe how to use ice axes to dig slabs from the use and safe travel in serious winter conditions snow to test its firmness and reliability. Previously, I had failed to appreciate the versatility of the ice axe, simply pondering its awkward length and how to carry it without gouging out the eyes of fellow walkers. Then came the ‘death cookie’ demonstration, where lumps of fallen snow are rolled downhill to form ‘cookie’ shaped structures that indicate loose, wet and risky snow conditions.

The serious mood was lightened with the invitation to use the snowy corrie as a chute to test our self-arrest skills. The exercise started with as much propriety as one can muster when four adults hurl themselves down a slope to compare the slipperiness of different makes of waterproofs. Sensibility was all but completely lost as we took it in turns to slide head-first on our backs and then judge each other’s self-arrest technique.

Group-bonding continued while using our ice axes to lever ourselves around icy rocks scattered across the corrie while practising crampon technique. Although I felt at a slight disadvantage with my lack of upper body strength compared with the men, Jim demonstrated how care and precision of movement were of as much value as brawn. This didn’t translate into elegant movements, however, as I lurched and staggered

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around like John Wayne in an attempt to avoid tearing a hole in my fancy new waterproof trousers.

Getting a little too much into the natter and appreciation of the now visible Beinn Eighe ridge, we were brought back to task with a game that involved building our own snow bollards and snow holes. It was like Krypton Factor on ice with the men adopting a distinctly more precise engineering approach to their constructions than my more, ahem, creative version. I was amazed at the strength and versatility of the structure from which we all then dangled on a rope while our leader captured the moment on camera – all the time hoping that this would not be a skill I’d have to remember in a hurry.

Our first day of winter skills training ended with a climb around the steepened edges of Stuc a Coire an Laoigh from where we descended toward the stalker’s path. Again, I took the lead, now feeling quite comfortable in my new crampons. They were a Christmas present to myself and had been christened on the ridges of the Mamores in January on a bright and crisp weekend. I was beginning to trust the purchase they offered on the steeper slopes and felt confident in experimenting with using them together with my ice axe to balance on trickier ground.

On the outward climb, Jim’s eagle eye had clocked an area of hard, thick ice hanging from a small crag and managed to relocate it on the descent. This ‘find’ gave us the chance to consolidate some of the skills learned earlier in the day with a bit of ice climbing. The task was to negotiate our way along the ice sheet and over the top of the crag. First, we watched Jim’s ascent as he moved effortlessly over the ice using his axe and crampon points, before popping out on the top of the crag with a few deft moves.

With axes in hand and held firmly by a rope, I attempted to emulate his moves, thumping my spikes into the thick ice. As I swung away from the wall having failed to make good contact, I appreciated the years of experience necessary to attain such confidence and technique. Reassuringly, the others also appeared to struggle to find a sufficiently firm grip, but despite these difficulties we all returned for more attempts as we engaged with the challenge.

“

”

SUMMIT PUSH Having seen walkers on the higher reaches of the hills from our position in the corrie, I was keen to make a Torridon summit on day two of the course. ForSafety first (from top): tunately, as Jim had predicted, testing a snow bollard; the cloud level had risen somegetting to grips with ice axes; the clouds part for a what and we agreed to an ascent moment of Beinn Alligin – the hill on which I had become so lost many years before. Our party had diminished to four that morning due to a nasty blister impeding one of our number – a valuable lesson in bringing your own boots!

Reminding us of the variable weather conditions, Jim set a keen pace and we fell in behind for the steep, stony path up to Na Rathanan. As we gained height, fitted

54

Scotland Outdoors Winter 2010

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STEPPING OUT • WINTER SKILLS

our crampons and moved into the clouds, the temperature dropped and the joviality of the previous day was set aside as we approached the ‘three horns’ of Beinn Alligin with the respectful wariness of novice mountaineers.

As we neared what appeared to be impossibly high snow-covered towers, I was baffled at the prospect of manoeuvring around such obstacles; typically, this would have been the point when my confidence melted away to be replaced by thoughts of retreat. However, Jim’s familiarity with the environment calmed our anxieties as he warned us away from the seductive prints left from the previous day’s explorers and encouraged us instead onto more sensible lines.

Roped together with three relative strangers and moving over complex terrain was, at first, a daunting prospect but we managed to find a rhythm that eased us through the trickier ground. Fortunately, being enveloped by cloud, I could not see what lay below and was happy to just follow instructions as we were talked down the final horn and onto the smoother ridge.

Feeling slightly high from the relief of the traverse, we approached the summit in near zero visibility, but I’d learned by now that Jim never let the possibility of a lesson pass: we carefully navigated our way to the trig point and over to Tom na Gruagaich, measuring and counting our steps against his GPS recording. The appearance of a friendly mutt broke the serious mood of the previous couple of hours as our guide nonchalantly exclaimed that it belonged to friends who then duly emerged through the murk as if on cue.

The speedy descent into the final corrie on our backsides produced an exhilarating end to an exciting day, made all the more entertaining by occasionally losing a leg down holes of melting snow. Later, basking in the sunshine outside the youth hostel with well-earned cups of tea, we reflected on the success of the weekend and our enthusiasm for further snowy adventures. I felt so pleased at having embarked on the course in the first place, not

56

content simply to rely on the experience of others or avoid the hills altogether during the winter months.

Now I had a sense of what to expect and the confidence to respond to different conditions on the hill. There is much still to learn, but it was heartening to know that I already had the stamina and enthusiasm to enjoy the winter hills, while the rest would come with careful experience. Whilst my fellow novice mountaineers girded their loins for return journeys home, I decided to put my new found skills to use while still fresh in the mind and headed north to Ullapool for a few more days of adventure. g

Top of the class: Ellen on the horns of Alligin (above); heading home (below)

FURTHER INFORMATION Ellen Homewood spent the weekend with nineonesix-guiding, based in Shieldaig, Torridon. The company offers a year-round guiding service that covers hill walking, scrambling, climbing and trail cycling in the mountains of Torridon and further afield. www.nineonesix.co.uk

Now it’s your turn Fancy following in Ellen’s footsteps and learning crucial winter skills? See our competition on page 17 for the chance to win a weekend of winter skills training with nineonesix-guiding.

Scotland Outdoors Winter 2010

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WILDLIFE & ECOLOGY • HARBOUR SEALS

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

PHOTOGRAPHY: RICHARD SHUCKSMITH/WWW.ECOLOGICALPHOTOGRAPHY.CO.UK; REID'S PHOTOGRAPHY

RESEARCHERS HAVE BEGUN A YEAR-LONG SURVEY INTO THE DIET OF HARBOUR SEALS IN AN EFFORT TO UNDERSTAND A WORRYING FALL IN NUMBERS AROUND THE SCOTTISH COAST. IT’S A JOB FOR STRONG STOMACHS, WRITES RICHARD ROWE

K

ITTED OUT IN OIL SKINS, gloves and with a large supply of plastic bags, Lindsay Wilson is ready for business. At first glance, the PhD student from St Andrews University’s Sea Mammal Research Unit has an enviable job; she has spent the last six months travelling around Scotland’s dramatic coastline studying the diet of harbour seals. But the work is not quite as appealing as it sounds: it’s not the seals she has come to study, so much as what they leave behind.

Leading a small team of researchers, her task is to scoop, bag and label as much seal poo (scat) as she can muster and then return to the lab to analyse its contents.

Scientists have various methods available to them for discovering what seals eat – from seal-borne video cameras to tissue sampling – but the analysis of faecal prey remains is the most practical, if a little smelly. “It’s not the most pleasant of tasks, I have to admit,” notes Wilson.

Funded by the Scottish Government, the work is part of a year-long survey that sees the first Scotland-wide assessment of harbour seal diet. Results from the sampling, which began in June and will run until May 2011, should reveal much about not just the animal’s feeding habits, but also the level of competition for food from much larger grey seals and even the changing nature of Scotland’s marine environment.

Together with greys, the harbour (or common) seal is one of just two species of seal commonly found around UK coasts. Their faces more dog-like in appearance than greys, harbour seals are probably the more familiar of the two; they are often seen basking on rocks and sand bars at low tide, sometimes curled up at each end like blubbery bananas.

But it is possible that such a sight will become less common in the future – particularly in certain parts of the country. Recent counts suggest that the population in Orkney has fallen by as much as 65% over the past eight years, while significant declines have also been seen in Shetland and the Firth of Tay (both down 50%), the

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Western Isles (35%) and Strathclyde (25%). It’s a significant drop by any standards, but particularly worrying given that the UK – and Scotland in particular – holds a third of the European population of harbour seals, or around 20,000 animals.

It’s fair to say that estimating numbers of harbour seals is far from straightforward. Numbers are monitored on an annual basis, with counts performed using aerial photography or thermal imaging. Helicopters fly over the entire coast at low tide during the animal’s summer moult, when they spend more time on land, but with so many animals still in the water, such counts are rarely precise.

Scientists admit that while the data has identified a pattern of decline over a number of years, it’s still tricky to zero in on the exact cause – hence the need for detailed studies into seal diet. “If there was a mass mortality event with lots of seals washing up dead, then that would obviously be a red flag,” says Wilson. “But when it’s a gradual decline with marked differences around the country, the reasons are much harder to pinpoint.”

IN THE FIELD The survey work involves a pretty punishing schedule – particularly at this time of year. Every three months, Wilson,

Scotland Outdoors Winter 2010

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field technician Donald Malone and boatman Sven van Sweeden travel around the coast counting seals and collecting scat.

When we spoke in early November, Wilson and her team had just returned from North Uist where they had to contend with 40-knot winds and very short hours of daylight. Following further collections around the Moray Firth, and with barely time to catch their breath, they were then due in Orkney for a week before a further three days of collecting in Campbeltown on the Mull of Kintyre.

After some lab time the cycle begins again, starting with a trip to Skye and then sampling across large swathes of the west coast. “We are on the road for nine out of every 12 weeks,” explains Wilson. “Logistically, it’s challenging – we’ve got to know ferry times pretty well.”

To date, most dietary analysis has concentrated on grey seals. This is largely because of their much greater numbers – roughly 180,000 around Scotland – and attempts to understand conflict with the commercial fishing industry.

“Relatively little has been done on harbour seals and certainly not in such an intense way as this,” says Wilson.

For the purpose of the survey, Scotland is divided into nine regions with the ideal being to collect at least 60 scats for each region every quarter. “The Moray Firth, for instance, counts as one region, so there is a lot of ground

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to cover with just three people.”

With such large areas to survey it is little wonder that Wilson welcomes assistance from the general public. “If people know of regular seal haul-outs nearby then we’d love to hear from them,” she says. It’s also possible to get even more hands-on. Following a bit of training and a risk assessment, one local man in Orkney has helped the team collect scat on a regular basis. “It’s very hard to cover the whole of Scotland every three months, so it would be great to get a bit more help like that.”

Here's looking at you: an inquisitive harbour seal (below); Lindsay Wilson landing on one of the many islands in Yell Sound, Shetland

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WILDLIFE & ECOLOGY • HARBOUR SEALS

“ ” SCAT CHAT According to Wilson, seal scat is rather hard to describe.

“It has a strong scent that once smelt is easily recognisable, but it’s not fishy as such,” she offers. “It also has real variation in colouring. Put it this way, as with humans, it’s pretty obvious if an animal is in good health or not.”

Although the nose might wrinkle at the thought, an animal’s waste tells a story about its health, eating habits and overall condition. In the case of seal scat, it often contains the tiny otoliths (ear bones) of various fish as well as the beaks of squid and octopus. By collecting samples from different areas the team hopes to identify regional differences in prey items.

“We are also conducting a parallel study that looks at energy use at different times, say when the seals are at rest, in the water or when actually swimming,” explains Wilson.

“It all helps to understand the animal’s energy needs and whether those needs are being met by its diet.”

In Orkney, where the decline in numbers has been particularly marked, it could be that the seals are feeding on pollock and other relatively nutrient-poor prey rather than more calorific fish such as herring and sandeels. And the actual amount that the seals eat is also telling; if some areas are more energy rich in terms of prey items then it could be that the animals have to eat less to gain the fuel required.

One difficulty when collecting samples is the number of mixed haul-out sites – spots where grey and harbour seals happily congregate together. It’s the ultimate whodunit. “Sometimes it is hard to tell the difference between grey and harbour seal scat,” admits Wilson. “Often our sampling is based on what we see at the time of collection – if there are lots of harbour seals around then it’s more likely to be one of theirs.”

When collecting from mixed sites, a bit of molecular technology comes in handy. “We scrape sub-samples from the surface of the scat – the bit that comes into contact with the animal’s gut – and send them to Marine Scotland

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Science in Aberdeen for analysis. They are then able to determine from the DNA which species it is from, as well as the sex of the animal.”

Back in their basement lab in St Andrews, the seal diet team put each scat on a gentle cycle in a special washing machine to remove the biological waste. They then begin the intricate task of working through the remaining fish matter to determine exactly what it is the animal has been feeding on. Over the 12-month period of the study, it is likely that they will sift through several thousand scats and catalogue just as many bones and beaks.

Now halfway through the sample collection stage of the survey, Wilson remains cheery about a task that sees the team on the road for weeks at a time, often living in the back of a van. “We’re all enjoying it,” she says with a chuckle. “It’s hard going at times, but we all get on well and have been to some amazing places. You have to keep your sense of humour with this kind of work.”

And with that she’s off again, heading for a haul-out site in the Cromarty Firth before catching a ferry to Orkney. g

Poop and scoop (clockwise from top): analysing scat back in the lab; a harbour seal in familiar pose; the team find a likely sample

FURTHER INFO The seal diet team is keen to receive input from the public about seal haul-out areas. To get in touch, follow the seal diet survey or even help with the collection of samples, visit www.sealdietscotland.co.uk

Scotland Outdoors Winter 2010

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62_G_DEADWOOD_WINT10_Dead Wood 30/11/2010 15:35 Page 62

WILDLIFE & ECOLOGY • DEAD WOOD

PHOTOGRAPHY: SHAILA RAO/NATIONAL TRUST FOR SCOTLAND

Burning issue ECOLOGIST SHAILA RAO EXPLAINS WHY THE REMOVAL AND BURNING OF DEAD WOOD FOR CAMPFIRES IS NOT AS HARMLESS AS YOU MIGHT THINK

H

AVE YOU EVER chopped a branch off a fallen tree for firewood, or lifted a fallen log for your campfire? It’s certainly very tempting. After all, it’s hard to beat a cosy campfire after a long day on the trail. In some areas, however, such actions can have a dramatic impact on the surrounding wildlife and environment.

The problem is that natural woodland in all its components (including living, dying and dead trees) is such a scarce resource in the UK that forest fires started from campfires can be truly devastating. In addition, the removal of a seemingly small and harmless amount of dead wood by an individual can, if repeated by more and more people, build into a significant amount over time.

Where I work on the National Trust for Scotland’s Mar Lodge Estate near Braemar, the removal and burning of dead wood has become a serious issue. Situated at the heart of the Cairngorms National Park and with a total of 15 Munros, the estate is understandably popular and sees an estimated 90,000 hill walkers, campers, mountain bikers and climbers visit the area each year.

While the estate warmly welcomes visitors, it is also charged with supporting around 840ha of semi-natural Caledonian pinewood.

Sadly, the removal of dead wood for fires, particularly in the popular Derry Lodge area, has become a significant problem; it is now a frequent occurrence for campers to chop or saw sections off fallen dead trees and pull off dead branches on standing trees to obtain firewood.

Removing branches off live or dead trees

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and indeed the lighting of fires in or around woodlands is not considered ‘responsible’ within the Scottish Outdoor Access Code which makes clear that fires should not be lit in woodland, forest or on peaty ground.

In recent years, we have seen at least seven fires started accidentally from campfires, usually as a result of fires not being extinguished properly – with smouldering embers igniting surrounding vegetation. Some fires have only damaged the immediate area of the fire site, while others have spread to burn more than a hectare of ground. Such fires usually start burning in the peat and slowly creep outwards and into tree roots, with the extent of the damage determined only by the speed with which the fire is discovered.

We are fortunate in that unlike other, drier, parts of the world, only very rarely do we see wild fires caused by natural phenomena such as lightning strikes; ours tend to result from human activity – and are therefore preventable.

ECOLOGICAL STRUCTURE In addition to the obvious risk of fire spreading to surrounding woodland (and potentially wiping out years of woodland regeneration efforts) dead and decaying wood is a significant component of the ecological structure and function of native woodland.

Dead wood provides an important habitat for small reptiles and mammals, invertebrates, cavity-nesting birds and a number of lichens, mosses and fungi. There are also a variety of species that depend on dead and decaying wood for part or all of their life cycle and many of these species are now rare and endangered.

Going, going, gone: a fallen tree has been well used by campers (above left and right); classic pinewood landscape at Mar Lodge Estate (top)

Dead and dying trees also play a key role in the functioning and productivity of forest ecosystems through effects on biodiversity, carbon storage, nutrient recycling, energy flows and natural regeneration of trees.

Until recently, dead wood was frequently removed from woodlands within the UK with the result that large amounts of dead wood can now only be found in old growth forest reserves or habitats such as ancient parkland and wood pasture. Within native pinewoods and old pine plantations the volume of dead wood is typically only one third of that which would be found in near natural woodlands.

Such scarcity and importance for biodiversity is now recognised and many land managers, including those at Mar Lodge, are seeking to conserve and if possible enhance the amount of dead wood present within woodlands.

If we are to succeed in conserving Scotland’s ancient pinewoods, it’s crucial that we all understand the importance of dead wood and take a moment to think before lifting the saw to a fallen tree. g

FURTHER INFO Shaila Rao is an ecologist at Mar Lodge Estate on Deeside, which is home to one of the largest areas of remnant Caledonian pine forest in Scotland. www.marlodgeestate.org.uk Scottish Outdoor Access Code, visit www.outdooraccess-scotland.com

Scotland Outdoors Winter 2010

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PHOTOGRAPH: NIGEL WILLIAMS

SKILLS • AVALANCHE EDUCATION

Mind games Nigel Williams Head of Training, Glenmore Lodge Statistical evidence from research into avalanche education from a few years ago suggested that having training in avalanche avoidance does not actually make us safer. As a result, the focus in avalanche education has moved from an emphasis on science and digging pits in the snowpack to test stability towards a better understanding of the human thought processes when out in the hills. That is not to say that the knowledge gained from digging pits is unhelpful, just that it is increasingly recognised as a poor predictor of avalanche risk.

In terms of human thought processes, there are several common mental traps that people fall into – with or without prior training. They can be broadly categorised into four quite recognisable thought processes: Sheep syndrome – ‘Look there are footsteps, someone else has been this way recently so it must be safe’. You might even be able to see people up on the route ahead which is even more compelling.

Familiarity syndrome – ‘I’ve been here loads of times and it has never avalanched before’.

Instructors are well aware of the dangers of this kind of thinking. There is strong evidence to suggest that loading a slope with a group has the potential to apply an increased load on weak layers and so increases the avalanche risk on what may have been considered a safe slope.

Plan A syndrome – ‘We agreed on this route, so we should stick to it’. This is sometimes inadvertently reinforced through poor

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navigation skills that in turn make people reluctant to deviate. Also, GPS users need to be wary of simply taking the straight line indicated by the device instead of reading the ground and avoiding areas of increased hazard.

Lion syndrome – ‘We must be the first ones there to bag the route or ski the powder’.

The race to be first means that the actual hazard becomes a much lower priority.

All of these mental traps seem to override the usual alarm bells that go off when we are in a potentially dangerous situation. All too often, avalanche survivors, once dug from the snow, confess to having felt uneasy about a particular slope but continued anyway.

Fortunately, when it comes to avoiding avalanche-prone slopes, the information available to walkers and climbers has never been better. The Scottish Government invests around £150,000 each year to ensure that forecasting services are free for the user.

Mountain weather and avalanche forecasts are available online each afternoon, allowing time to plan for the following day.

But remember, a forecast is still just a best guess prediction, not a certainty. It is crucial that you also remain observant and look for indications of avalanche risk – and be prepared to change plans accordingly.

Read and interpret the reports. Check the weather forecast, particularly wind direction and speed, and temperature. Plan to keep the wind on your back over high ground. The Sportscotland Avalanche Information Service report provides useful visual information as well as the written word. Match your map to the wind direction and check it against your route, beware of the lee slopes where avalanche conditions are most likely to build up. Then check the angle of any of the steeper areas your journey might cross.

Plan your route. Most avalanches happen on slopes of around 30 to 35 degrees – steep ground to a walker where a slip could result in a serious accident. On a 1:50,000 map, six index contours (the thick contour lines) in a

centimetre represent a 30-degree slope. This often has to be extrapolated from perhaps just two index contours at the top of a concave slope.

Remain observant. Things can change quickly, so keep an eye on conditions throughout the day. For instance, snow blowing around is an indicator that slopes are being loaded. The temperature changes with altitude and can sometimes do so rapidly during the day. Think about how these changes tally with your own interpretation of conditions and what they might mean for your chosen route.

Last winter in Scotland, 220 avalanches were reported, with 35 triggered by walkers, climbers and skiers resulting in five fatalities. The risks are very real but you can do a lot to avoid them with a bit of planning. g

Further details

Nigel Williams is Head of Training at Glenmore Lodge, Scotland’s National Outdoor Training Centre. Glenmore Lodge offers a free interactive avalanche quiz that can be downloaded to help test your planning skills. www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/avalanche.asp

Sportscotland Avalanche Information Service www.sais.gov.uk

Mountain Weather Information Service www.mwis.org

Scotland Outdoors Winter 2010

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