Newport Beach Centennial | Celebrating A Century | 1906 - 2006 by Scott A. McPherson

N EWPORT B E A C H C E N TE N N I A L CE LE B R ATING A CENTURY

19 0 6 - 2 0 0 6

B Y C H R I S TO P H E R TR E LA

Balboa Pavilion, now ...

... and then.

1906 - 200 6

NE WPORT B E A C H C E N TE N N I A L CELEBRATING A C E N T U RY BY C H RIS TO P H ER TR E LA

D ED I CAT ION

This book is dedicated to everyone who has shaped Newport Beach over the years and helped turn the city into an exciting and vibrant community. View of Newport Harbor from Pelican Hill

Watching fireworks at Newport Dunes on July 4

ACK NOW L E DGEMENT S Thanks to Mayor Don Webb Gay Wassall-Kelly Gina Mitchell Linda Katsouleas Marie Knight City of Newport Beach Newport Beach Public Library

Photos courtesy of Pete Barrett Lee Roberts Robert Rooks Michael Steve First American Title Orange County Register Sherman Gardens & Library Newport Harbor Nautical Museum

Special thanks Rochelle Venturis for her many hours of research Christina McClendon & Jennifer Burnet for reading and editing every chapter more than once Kari Rene Hall For her long nights searching for photos in the Register archives Scott McPherson For taking a pile of words and photos and turning them into a terrific-looking book 8

A NOTE FRO M M AYOR DON W E BB On September 1, 2006, Newport Beach observed the 100th anniversary of its incorporation as a City in California. In our first one hundred years the City has grown from the three small settlements of Newport, East Newport and Balboa to a progressive residential community which enjoys an unparalleled reputation for its coastal amenities, its well planned villages and commercial areas, its recreational resources and open spaces, and its diversity. A year long Centennial Celebration beginning with “Let’s Do Launch” and the Beach Boys and ending with the “100 Years Between the Piers” fireworks display has raised the awareness of all within Newport Beach that we have a rich heritage and are living in a wonderful city. As the City moves into its second century, a new plan has been placed before the residents. This plan was the result of a visioning process that brought all parts of the community together in an effort to set a course for the next century. It is a plan that will allow our City to continue to mature and be a place where all will want to live, work and enjoy their recreation. The Newport Beach City Council has sponsored Newport Beach Centennial – Celebrating a Century, which merges our history with views of the City we enjoy today. We hope you enjoy it. DON WEBB, Mayor City of Newport Beach, California September 1, 2006

Council Member Keith Curry, Edward Selich, Mayor Pro Tem Steven Rosansky, Mayor Don Webb, Leslie Daigle, Tod Ridgeway, and Richard Nichols Newport Beach City Council 2005/2006

A special thank you to the Centennial Steering Committee and the Staff Liaisons for dedicating two years of planning for this great Centennial Celebration

Centennial Steering Committee Don Webb, Steering Committee Chair Edward D. Selich Steven Rosansky Thomas Anderson Barry Allen Ray Halowski Sandra Haskell Dayna Pettit Cecelia (Cee) Tobin Gay Wassall-Kelly Glenn Zagoren Richard Luehrs Norm Witt

Staff Liaisons Marie Knight, Centennial Project Director Janis Dinwiddie, Project Coordinator Linda Katsouleas Dan Trimble Teri Craig

Twilight in Newport Harbor

Whales along Newport Coast

Basking on Balboa Beach

IN T R ODUCT I ON Newport Beach. The name alone conjures images of a coastal paradise where boats gently bob in the bay and the elite come to play. But Newport Beach is more than a tony town that gained international renown thanks to a variety of TV shows that offered a glimpse into the City’s sought-after lifestyle. To those who live here, Newport Beach is a state of mind. It’s a place where BMW convertibles cruise Coast Highway alongside VW vans sporting surf racks. It’s a place where you can get a classic burger and fries or a five-star lobster dinner (often at the same restaurant). It’s a place where souvenir shops sit side by side with designer boutiques. It’s a place where beachside bungalows masquerade as multi-million dollar mansions. Yes, Newport Beach is a City full of opposites, but, as the saying goes, opposites attract, and Newport Beach does indeed lure plenty of visitors ready for a day full of fun under the Newport sun. The City also has a colorful history unmatched by most other coastal communities. It’s a history full of movie stars, fish canneries, dory fleets, big band jazz, and inlanders seeking a sun-soaked day at the beach. The growth from a tiny town where lots were cheap and sand was plenty into an unparalleled recreational destination is the stuff of fables, and who doesn’t love a good fable? The tale continues into 2006 with a momentous milestone: Newport Beach officially turns 100 on September 1. A year-long Centennial Celebration full of fun events has commemorated the City’s heritage. In honor of the Newport Beach Centennial, we present Celebrating a Century. This book explores the many personalities, places and stories that make Newport Beach, well, Newport Beach. Blending a variety of photographs with fun and informative text, Celebrating a Century is not just another history book. We’ve attempted to capture the myriad elements of Newport Beach and show the world why we love our seaside city. Because it’s nearly impossible to fit 100 years of history into a book packed with photos, the text tends to focus on the essential historical elements of Newport Beach. It’s said that a picture paints a thousand words, so we’re letting the photographs do the majority of the talking. We hope you enjoy this Centennial salute to Newport Beach.

A pelican at the pier

Golfing with a view

Evening in paradise

Balboa Pavilion

TA BLE OF CONTEN TS Living in Paradise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 The communities that give Newport Beach its unique charm and personality.

Humble Beginnings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 A brief history of Newport Beach leading up to incorporation in 1906.

Taming Newport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 How Newport Beach transitioned from a backwater town into a vibrant city that played an important part in expanding coastal access.

From Tents to Mansions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 The growth of Newport Beach from a tent city to an upscale housing community.

Shop & Dine: So Fine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 A variety of restaurants and shops contribute to Newportâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s economy by drawing customers from throughout the region.

Water, Water Everywhere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Water is liquid gold to Newport Beach. With its beautiful harbor and popular beaches, Newport Beach has become a haven for boaters and beachgoers.

Hook, Line & Sinker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 The fishing industry helped put Newport Beach on the map. Now, the dory fleet and weekend anglers keep the fishing heritage alive.

Hollywood by the Sea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 Numerous Hollywood celebrities lived or played in Newport Beach, and many famous films were shot here.

Hometown Celebrities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Newport Beach has a handful of famous families and important individuals whose contributions to the growth of the city have made an indelible impact on the community.

Lively Landmarks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Newport Beach is loaded with instantly recognizable landmarks, including the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s icon, the Balboa Pavilion.

Fun, Fun, Fun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Whether you want to take a boat cruise, visit a museum or simply bask on the beach, Newport Beach has it all.

Behind the Scenes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Every city needs community services to make the machinery of commerce run.

Full Speed Ahead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Celebrating 100 years, and looking to the next century.

Crystal Cove State Park

L IV ING A ND P L AYI NG I N PA RA DI S E Living in Newport Beach is like having a permanent passport to paradise. With a population of more than 80,000 living within an area of approximately 26 square miles (plus another 25 square miles of water) in homes that are as colorful and varied as the coastline, Newport Beach is a relatively small town. However, it boasts some big amenities: a balmy climate, nine miles of beautiful beaches, upscale shopping centers and eclectic boutiques, hundreds of restaurants, a variety of recreational activities, and one of the largest small-yacht harbors in the world. With all that, it’s no surprise that Newport Beach is such a popular vacation destination. The blend of sophisticated style and laid-back luxury draws anywhere from 20,000 to 100,000 visitors every day—more than seven million a year! Basking on the beach near Newport pier

Newport Harbor and the Balboa Pavilion

Girl Scout Brownies at the back bay’s Environmental Nature Center

More than seven million people visit Newport Beach every year. The primary lure is, of course, the beach. Dining, shopping and sightseeing are also on most visitor’s “things to do” list. Some people come for a few days, others for a few hours, but no matter how long the stay or the occasion for the visit, Newport Beach proves to be the perfect destination for fun in the sun. That fun extends throughout the City’s many colorful communities and distinct shopping and dining districts, each of which has, over time, developed its own unique personality.

Balboa Peninsula

Flying high over homes on Newport’s Back Bay

Newport Harbor from the air

For most visitors, the name Newport Beach is synonymous with Balboa Peninsula, a three-mile strip of land bordered by Newport Harbor on one side and pristine beaches that slope to the Pacific Ocean on the other. Along this narrow stretch where Newport and Balboa Boulevards meet and form a single roadway that ends at the famous body surfing site known as The Wedge, you can find all the elements that give Newport Beach its international reputation. Newport Boulevard is the gateway to Balboa Peninsula. Cross over Coast Highway and you’ll find Lido Marina Village, an upscale waterfront shopping and dining district where yachts of all sizes are docked. Nearby is City Hall, surrounded by noted restaurants, including The Cannery, a former fish canning factory that’s been turned into an upscale dining establishment. The Cannery sits near the bridge that leads to Lido Island, one of several islands in Newport Harbor. Further down Newport Boulevard is ground zero for the history of Newport Beach: McFadden Square, named after the family who helped found the City. Surf and souvenir shops, clothing stores and restaurants engulf the area around the Newport Pier, which was originally built in the late 1800s to unload cargo ships that brought lumber and other supplies to the burgeoning region. Next to the pier is the Dory Fishing Fleet, a small but dedicated group of fishermen who at one time were a primary supplier of fresh seafood to the community. The fleet has dwindled in number over the years, but they still bring in the day’s catch to sell at rustic stands on the beach.

Balboa Pier (with Newport Pier in background)

McFadden Square

The Balboa Ferry entrance at the Fun Zone

Boats cruise past the Balboa Pavilion

Rollerblading near Balboa Pier

Enjoying frozen treats on Balboa Island

Little Island, the southern portion of Balboa Island

A shop on Balboa Island’s Marine Avenue; Balboa Island resident Cheryl Kosky in front of her bungalow

Sign of the times then and now

About a mile south of McFadden Square is the community of Balboa, home of the famous Balboa Pavilion, the Balboa Fun Zone, and the Balboa Pier. A popular biking and jogging path traverses the beach between the Balboa and Newport Piers. Completed in 1906, the Balboa Pavilion has become the oldest and most famous landmark in Newport Beach. Home to the Harborside Restaurant and an upstairs banquet room with spectacular waterfront views, the Balboa Pavilion sits over the water at one end of the Balboa Fun Zone, an oldfashioned amusement area that contains games, a Ferris wheel, harbor tour boats, restaurants and snack shops, boat rentals, and souvenir shops. The Balboa Ferry transports both cars and passengers from the Fun Zone across the harbor to Balboa Island.

Balboa Island Balboa Island is actually comprised of three islands joined by bridges: Balboa Island, Little Balboa Island, and Collins Island. A close-knit community of 3,000 residents who use words like “heaven” to describe their serene lifestyle, Balboa Island is one of the most expensive real estate markets in the country—homes here are worth an average of $3 million each. 19

Inspiration Point overlooking Corona del Mar State Beach

Balboa Island is one of the most expensive real estate markets in the nation. A paved walkway circles the perimeter of the island, and residents and visitors alike can be found strolling the path past small patches of sand and boat docks on one side and multi-million dollar mansions on the other. The walkway can get crowded in December with sightseers enjoying the elaborate and ornate Christmas decorations. Marine Avenue is the main shopping district on Balboa Island. Clothing boutiques, art galleries, restaurants, souvenir shops and a market line the two blocks of this short street. The famed Balboa Bar – a vanilla ice cream bar dipped in warm chocolate and an assortment of toppings – and other decadent delights can be purchased at snack stands on Marine Avenue, which is also the site for the annual Balboa Island Parade, held the first Sunday in June. The only road on and off Balboa Island, Marine Avenue heads north to Coast Highway, where it becomes Jamboree Road (named for the Boy Scout Jamboree held there half a century ago) .

Topiary dolphins along East Coast Highway in Corona del Mar.

Other Areas Of The City Home to Sherman Library and Gardens, Corona del Mar State Beach, a handful of notable restaurants and a unique selection of retail shops, Corona del Mar (Spanish for Crown of the Sea) packs a lot into a small area. The main beach in Corona del Mar offers fire pits, picnic tables, tidepools and views of the entrance to Newport Harbor. Much of the commerce in Newport Beach can be found at Newport Center and Fashion Island, a landlocked shopping and business center that boasts a variety of exclusive boutiques, department stores, restaurants, and offices. Commerce goes coastal along Mariners Mile (also known as Restaurant Row), a length of Coast Highway where yacht brokers and high-end automobile dealerships vie for attention with restaurants, boutiques and the iconic Balboa Bay Club. Newport Dunes Waterfront Resort is one of the few areas in the City that accommodates RV and tent camping. It’s located on Newport’s Back Bay, a magnificent wildlife preserve where local and migrating birds share their

Corona del Mar

A rainbow in Corona del Mar

Lookout Point in Corona Del Mar—a romantic spot

space with kayakers. Newer areas of Newport Beach annexed to the City include the refined residential areas of San Joaquin Hills and Newport Coast. Crystal Cove State Park, located in Newport Coast, is a haven for hiking, cycling, surfing, snorkeling and sunbathing. An oasis amid city living, the park offers three miles of coastline, wooded canyons, open bluffs, and offshore waters designated as an underwater park. The Crystal Cove State Park Historic District offers more than a dozen 1930s-era cottages as vacation rentals. These cottages, located on the beach or on the hills overlooking the ocean, have been restored and furnished to reflect the area’s beach culture and ambiance. Other areas of the City: Newport Heights, Westcliff and Dover Shores on the west side of the bay, and The Bluffs, One Ford Road, East Bluff, the Port Streets, and Harbor Ridge on the east side. Add a plethora of parks, schools, libraries and other essential elements of a City’s infrastructure as well as all of the offices and hotels near the John Wayne Airport, and it’s easy to see why Newport Beach residents love their City—and why everyone else wants to come here. Kayakers in Newport’s Back Bay

A great egret in the Back Bay

The entrance to Newport Coast

A custom home in Newport Coast

Irvine Terrace Park in Corona del Mar

Horses in Newportâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Back Bay

The Balboa Bay Club

The fountain in Fashion Island

Beachgoers near McFadden’s Wharf, mid 1890s

Train car on the pier, 1895

McFadden brothers on Santa Ana River Bridge, 1890

McFadden’s Wharf, 1892

H U M BL E B EG INNI NGS If you think starting a city is easy, try turning a marshland into the metropolitan town of Newport Beach. The pioneers who founded our city had to battle Mother Nature and a bit of bad luck before their watery dream became a reality. James Irvine and his partners purchased ranch land surrounding what would become Newport Beach, as did easterners James McFadden and his brother Robert. Irvine focused on ranching and agriculture, while the McFaddens had the idea of developing a seaport and eventually a town. The McFadden brothers subdivided their land and waited for enough people to purchase property to make their city dreams a reality. But if you want to build a town, you need lumber, which was in short supply in Newport Beach. Fortunately, in 1870 a sternwheller steamship piloted by Captain Samuel Dunnels called The Vaquero steamed up the coast from San Diego with a load of lumber. Designed to maneuver in shallow water, The Vaquero slowly and easily made its way into the bay and delivered its cargo. Elated that he had found a new landing site, Captain Dunnels built a small wharf that became known as Newport Landing. Stories abound about how Newport got its name. Some suggest Captain Dunnels gets credit for finding a “new port,” but another account has an Irvine Company secretary suggesting the name Newport, which was accepted by both James Irvine and Robert McFadden. The Vaquero began making regular round trips from San Diego, but within two years mounting debt forced Captain Dunnels out of business. James McFadden and his brothers Robert and John began shipping lumber from San Francisco to Newport Landing in 1873. To their delight and surprise, they suddenly had a prosperous timber trade. The brothers commissioned a steamship, The Newport, to facilitate their lumber shipments. Shipping was not easy because of the harbor’s sandbars and shallow water, but despite these difficulties Newport Bay handled a substantial amount of the Santa Ana Valley freight. In 1878, the McFadden brothers sold their ship and turned their efforts to

James Irvine II

McFadden brothers

Train depot at McFadden’s Wharf, mid 1890s

The Balboa Hotel was built in 10 days to accommodate the passengers who arrived in the Red Cars on July 4, 2006

McFadden’s Wharf, early 1900s

Fashionable ladies traveling by train, circa 1900

constructing a wharf on the oceanfront, from which they could easily unload cargo ships. McFadden’s Wharf was completed in 1888 (at the site where the Newport Pier stands today), and soon welcomed hundreds of ships a year. Railroad tracks were laid out onto the pier, making the distribution of cargo by train to inland cities relatively simple. A new wooden wagon bridge spanning the Santa Ana River made for easy access to Newport, and before long a camp appeared, followed by stores and boarding houses. This was all good news not only for the many dock workers at McFadden’s Wharf, but for the hundreds of inlanders who began taking train trips to Newport to enjoy the mild climate and pristine beaches. With more visitors coming to the area, James McFadden purchased a portion of the peninsula. He laid out a plan for a town and leased lots. A handful of humble cottages slowly appeared, followed by more stores. In 1899, the McFadden brothers sold their interest in the wharf and railroad, but continued to lobby the federal government for funding to improve Newport Bay and turn it into a commercial shipping hub. Their hopes were dashed when the port at nearby San Pedro was awarded funding instead of Newport. James McFadden sold his property to real estate developers William S. Collins and A.C. Hanson and said goodbye to Newport, but he and his brothers left a permanent imprint on the history of Newport Beach. By the early 1900s, Newport Beach had become a destination for vacationers. Development began to increase when it was announced that the Red Car Line – an electric railway system that ran from Los Angeles to Orange County – was being extended to Newport Beach in the summer of 1905. Construction on the Balboa Pavilion began when plans were made to extend the Red Cars to Balboa by the summer of 1906. After erecting a hotel in a mere 10 days to accommodate the expected influx of visitors, the Red Cars arrived at the Balboa Pavilion on July 4, 1906, three days after the Balboa Pavilion opened to the public. With that milestone met, it wasn’t long before residents decided to officially make Newport Beach a city.

Camping on the beach in Newport, circa 1890

Newport corral, 1900

Red Car at the Balboa Pavilion, circa 1906

Aerial view of Newport Harbor, 1928

TAMING NEWPORT Give me a home where the buffalo roam, and we’ll call it Newport Beach. Sheep and cattle did indeed roam the land around Newport Beach at the turn of the century (buffalo were actually brought in years later), but with the coming of the Red Cars and other modes of transportation, humans slowly began to claim the ranchlands from their four legged friends. The pace of growth was slow, although the excitement of incorporation – which the city officially did on September 1, 1906 – did provide some positive publicity. Incorporation took the City out of the hands of the County Board of Supervisors and plopped it into the palms of a handful of citizens eager to issue a few liquor licenses, which could not be done while under county rule. In 1916, the City did go “dry” until the repeal of prohibition. By 1910 the population of Newport Beach had hit 445 and the city finally started taking shape. Vacant land was subdivided, streets and sidewalks were paved, and sewers, gas, electric and telephone services began to arrive. William Collins saw the potential for a real estate boom. He had started dredging a channel along the north side of the bay in 1906, and piled the sand and silt up onto Balboa Island, which was little more than a mud flat. McFadden’s Wharf, circa 1900

Newport shops, 1920s

Camping at the beach, 1916

Downtown Balboa, 1927

Downtown Balboa, circa 1930

Red Car Line cruises down the coast to Newport

At one time a city ordinance stated that the space between the bottom of a womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s swim skirt and kneecap must not surpass 10 inches. Collins marketed Balboa Island as an island paradise, but it would be a few years until that promise was ultimately fulfilled. Balboa Island was eventually annexed to Newport Beach in 1916, and promised improvements were provided by the Balboa Island Improvement Association. The population of Newport Beach reached 894 by 1920, more than double that of 1910 yet less than hoped by the real estate tycoons. Still, developers continued to promote the area to prospective residents. More dredging in the 1920s helped create what would become Lido Island, and within a few decades both Balboa and Lido Islands were thriving communities. In 1927, movie stars Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks dedicated the completion of Coast Highway, which offered easier access to Newport Beach. By 1930, the permanent population of Newport Beach had jumped to 2,203. A housing boom was looming for Newport, one that would remove the remnants of tent cities and create a sprawling waterfront community. Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks mark the completion of Coast Highway

Balboa, 1920s

Balboa Beach 1919

One of Newportâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s magnificent mansions

F R O M TE NTS TO M AN SI ONS “Balboa Island, the heart of Newport Harbor, future yachting Mecca of the world. Lots $200, easy terms,” touted a 1921 newspaper advertisement that Joseph Beek placed in the Anaheim Gazette. Those seemed like fanciful claims in 1921. The lots had few takers at first, but Beek – who had taken over operation of the Balboa Island Ferry and been named Newport’s first Harbormaster – was determined to develop the area under the watchful eye of the Balboa Island Improvement Association. With sewers, electricity and other amenities in place, real estate did begin to sell, and the price for lots slowly climbed. Houses and cottages appeared on the islands, the peninsula and along Coast Highway in Corona del Mar. Enterprising salesman Paul Palmer was the exclusive seller of Lido Isle lots, and he aggressively promoted the area as the place to build a home. Initially, inland lots went for $500 to $700, while bay front lots fetched up to $2,000. By the 1930s, Lido was starting to come into its own as a residential community. Newport’s population in 1940 reached 4,438, more than double that of 1930, but the City’s growth was just beginning. Home lots were still plentiful, although they continued to be snapped up due to Newport’s newfound notoriety as both a boater’s paradise and the playground of movie stars. The growth of commercial fishing and other industry in the town helped fuel the housing boom, and by 1950 Newport’s population had nearly tripled. Real estate was becoming expensive, but plenty of people gladly paid the price to live here. In 1960, the population of Newport Beach topped 26,000, but that would quickly change with the completion of the 55 Freeway, which made automotive travel to Newport easier than ever. The expansion of John Wayne Airport from a small local field to a bustling national hub in the 1960s helped pave the way for a county-wide population boom that included Newport Beach. By 1970 the population of

Balboa Island then…

…and now

Newport Coast homes

Newport hit 50,000. Over the next three decades, another 20,000 residents called Newport home. From 2000 to 2004, a population jump from 70,000 to 80,000 was due in part to two annexations to the city: Newport Coast in 2001 and San Joaquin Hills in 2002. The population continues to increase slowly as new homes are built in coastal hills and new apartment and condo projects are launched. You couldn’t give Newport lots away a century ago, but now few areas of Orange County can compete with Newport Beach when it comes to upscale real estate. Of course, with high household incomes, Newport residents are well-equipped for the monthly mortgage payments. One of the most expensive real estate markets in North America outside of Lower Manhattan is Balboa Island. Here, a two-bedroom home with a water view from the living room can fetch upwards of $3 million. The cottages that line the streets named for precious gemstones are the very definition of “charming.” The friendly Balboa community is a close-knit one, 34

The TV show “The OC” opens with a shot of a Pelican Hills home in Newport Coast. and many families living here have roots that go back for several generations. People enjoy walking the cement path that traverses the perimeter of Balboa Island to view the unique homes that border the path. Some of these homes are newly constructed mansions, others date back many decades. Together they offer a fascinating mosaic of life on Balboa Island. Newport’s other islands (Linda Island, Harbor Island, Collins Island and Bay Island) also have incredible homes, a few of which are accessible only by electric cart. The Balboa Peninsula is one of those real estate anomalies where mobile homes, cottages and mansions call each other friends. Much of the peninsula between Coast Highway and Balboa is comprised of short streets similar to Balboa Island, with homes that have little or no backyard and not much of a front yard. Of course, when you live a few feet from the water, who wants to spend time mowing the lawn? Beyond Balboa to the tip of the peninsula are homes that back up to the beach or jut against the harbor. Other houses are on rows of tree-lined streets, making them appear as though they were transported straight from a 1940s Andy Hardy movie.

Homes along Balboa Island boardwalk

Beach cottage on Balboa Island

Corona del Mar has its share of historic homes and newer dwellings, but it seems that no matter how old the abode, it’s the old adage “location, location, location” that matters with this much sought-after real estate market. Some residential areas on the north side of Coast Highway have that same community feel as Balboa Island. Life on the ocean side of Coast Highway blends the relaxed residential neighborhood ambiance of comfortable cottages with sprawling mansions. San Joaquin Hills is one of the most expensive areas in Newport. Homes here are, as the name implies, up on a hill, which usually means spectacular ocean views. Newport Coast – developed by The Irvine Company and annexed to Newport Beach in 2001 – has become one of the most exclusive patches of real estate in Newport Beach, and Orange County. The TV show The OC opens with a shot of a custom home in Newport Coast. 35

A Ferrari dealership is reflected in a jewelry store window

S H O P & DI NE: S O F INE “Shop ‘til you drop, dine ‘til you’re fine” is an appropriate mantra for Newport Beach. With dozens of notable department stores, countless one-ofa-kind boutiques, numerous five-star restaurants and a host of charming bistros, it’s a wonder there’s time for anything else. Times have changed; so too have the shopping and dining habits of Newport residents and visitors. Few if any stores and restaurants remain from Newport’s early days, although there are a few holdouts, including the old pharmacy at the corner of Balboa Boulevard and Main Street that’s been in the same location more than 80 years.

Fashion Island One place that’s been around for 40 years but never seems to show its age is Fashion Island, owned and managed by The Irvine Company. Fashion Island was christened in September of 1967 with a champagne gala that Time Magazine called “the largest cocktail party in the world” (18,438 tickets were sold at $5 each for the black tie event). This upscale, open-air shopping and dining destination is known for its circular perimeter and for having more than 200 fine retail and department stores, including Bloomingdales and Neiman Marcus.

The Island Hotel in Fashion Island

Shopping in Neiman Marcus

The Carousel at Fashion Island

The bar at Sam and Harry’s restaurant at the Marriott Hotel

The view from 21 Oceanfront Restaurant

Wine cellar at Mastro’s Ocean Club in the Crystal Cove Promenade

Iced Seafood Tower at Mastro’s Ocean Club

18,438 tickets were sold at $5 each for the black tie opening of Fashion Island in 1967 A bronze wind chime sculpture, created in 1966 by artist Tom Van Sant, was installed at the southwest entrance to the mall. Van Sant’s piece of art was recorded in the Guinness Book of Records as the world’s largest wind chime. Fashion Island is known for its remarkable holiday display at Christmas time. Thousands of people come from throughout Southern California to witness the lighting of the tallest live Christmas tree in the nation, placed in the courtyard in front of Bloomingdales. Shopping always seems to lead to dining, which Fashion Island accommodates with an array of casual and fine dining restaurants, including Restaurateur David Wilhelm’s latest Culinary Adventures creation, French 75 Bistro (a French-themed restaurant and champagne bar). Fashion Island has had several additions and remodels over the years, but its casual-yet-upscale ambiance remains intact.

Balboa Island Balboa Island is always a welcome destination for casual shopping and dining. The cozy shops and art galleries along Marine Avenue beckon visitors with their eclectic selections. Among the many stores are Debra Huse Gallery, which specializes in local Plein Air artists, Les Alpilles de Provence (an authentic French boutique), and Teddy Bears and Tea Cups (a charming tea room that sells collectible bears, dolls, doll houses, and related items). Panache for your pooch can be found at The Barkery, which sells home baked doggie treats as well as accessories from collars and leashes to bowls, custom beds and specialty items. Stop in at Hershey’s Market, a fixture on Balboa Island for nearly 70 years, or buy a classic Balboa Bar at one of the historic stands that still sport colorful old-fashioned signs. Dining options on Balboa Island include Amelia’s, one of the oldest familyowned and operated restaurants in Orange County. This romantic hideaway has been serving creative Italian and seafood dishes for 45 years, many of which are original recipes from the kitchen of founder Amelia Seton. Another local favorite is Wilma’s Patio, which has been serving great food in a fun atmosphere for more than 30 years.

A view of the water at Bluewater Grill

Marrakesh restaurant booth at the Taste of Newport

The Village Inn on Balboa Island

Mariner’s Mile Mariners Mile (also known as Restaurant Row) is a strip of Coast Highway between Newport Boulevard and Dover Street that contains dozens of casual and fine dining establishments, luxury automobile dealers, ship builders and yacht brokers, and a variety of retail shops and businesses. You can’t see much of the harbor from the highway, but all of the restaurants on the harbor side of Coast Highway boast waterfront dining at its best. Some restaurants even have docks to accommodate those who prefer to ferry their dinner guests by boat instead of car. However, one restaurant with limited views but unlimited reputation is The Arches. Originally constructed in 1922 as a gas station and small café, The Arches was rebuilt years ago as a fine dining restaurant that has played host to numerous celebrities and politicians. It’s still a popular culinary institution in Newport Beach, Ferrari & Maserati of Newport Beach

Villa Nova restaurant on West Coast Highway

Mariner’s Mile is packed with luxury yacht dealers

Villa Nova Restaurant is painted to look like an Italian villa, but you can tell you’re still in Newport with the striking views of the harbor. Opened in 1933 on the Sunset Strip in Hollywood, Villa Nova welcomed famous clientele such as Charlie Chaplin, Bing Crosby, Dean Martin, and Marilyn Monroe. The restaurant relocated to Mariners Mile in the late 1960s, where it has since become a local dining favorite. Other restaurants along Mariners Mile include Chart House, Rusty Pelican, Joe’s Crab Shack, Jack Shrimp, and Dolce. Great Legs Wine Boutique, which offers regular wine tastings, is also located on Mariners Mile. The boating industry is well represented along Mariner’s Mile with California Coast Yacht Sales, The Crow’s Nest Ship and Yacht Brokerage, Olympic Boat Centers, Orange Coast College’s Intercollegiate Sailing and Rowing Base, Newport Sea Base, Hornblower Yacht Cruises, Electra Boats, Duffy Boat Sales & Rentals, Larson’s Shipyard and many others.

The original Ruby’s Restaurant on Balboa Pier

Balboa Peninsula and More Balboa Peninsula has its share of new and historic restaurants, such as the famous Crab Cooker. Opened in 1951 as Seafood Varieties, the restaurant changed its name after customers started referring to the restaurant as “the place with the big crab cookers outside.” In this informal and whimsicallydecorated restaurant, some of the best seafood meals in town are served on paper plates. Nearby notables include the upscale 21 Oceanfront and the casual hangout Mutt Lynch’s (both in McFadden Square). In Balboa, Newport Landing, Harborside Restaurant and Great Mex (locals say it’s the best Mexican food in town) are favorites. Balboa Pier is home to the original Ruby’s restaurant, a chain of 1940sstyle diners with another local location on Coast Highway in Corona del Mar. Lido Village is a charming area with cobblestone streets and small art galleries and specialty boutiques plus several waterfront restaurants. Down the street from Lido Village is The Cannery, a former fish cannery that has been restored and turned into an upscale restaurant and lounge. Corona del Mar has a host of boutiques and restaurants bordering Coast Highway, most notably Five Crowns, an authentic replica of one of England’s oldest country inns. Built in 1965, Five Crowns is a place of candlelight and cozy fireplaces filled with antiques and rare paintings. Period-costumed staff capture the romantic spirit of Olde England.

Five Crowns in Corona del Mar

Sabatino’s Italian restaurat

Dining on the marina at Le Quai restaurant

Body surfing at The Wedge

WAT E R , WAT ER E VE RY W HE R E Water is liquid gold to Newport Beach. In fact, it’s the town’s main attraction. Between the harbor, the waterways, the back bay and the ocean, Newport Beach has 25 square miles of water within its boundaries. Beachgoers and surfers are drawn to the cool waves of the Pacific Ocean that tumble along Newport’s coast, while anglers enjoy dropping a line wherever the water’s deep enough to hold fish. But it’s the City’s harbor that put the town on the map. With abundant waterfront property, row after row of docks, and 10,000 boats of all sizes, it’s easy to see the allure of Newport Beach—although that was not always the case. In Newport’s early days, boats brought lumber and other goods to a growing community, but the harbor looked markedly different from how it does today. It wasn’t until the harbor was dredged in the early part of the 20th century that a safe boating haven was created. Paradise

The Lido Boat Show is a boat-lovers dream

Harbor cruise

Tall ship Lynx

Dredging then…

…and now

Early pedal boats in the bay

The Flight of the Snowbirds

Hydroplaning in Newport Harbor, 1919

Speedboats were once common in Newport Harbor

Flight of the Lasers

Snowbirds were a racing category in the 1932 Olympics held in Los Angeles. The entrance to Newport Harbor was difficult to navigate 100 years ago, but a series of dredging projects made the harbor deep enough for boats. The sludge was tossed onto the harbor’s mudflats, helping to create the many islands that give Newport Beach its character. Now, dredges cruise out to the ocean to dump their cargo of silt. Jetties were constructed between 1917 and 1936 that offered boats a safer passage in and out of the harbor while shielding the harbor and shoreline from storms and erosion. Unfortunately, the jetties destroyed the natural surf break in Corona del Mar, but they did help create The Wedge, an area on the tip of the Newport Peninsula where giant waves offer surfers the ultimate ride. Even before dredging, boats were plentiful in Newport Harbor, but they became even more so in the 1910s and ‘20s. Tall ships loaded with cargo, sailboats, speedboats, fishing boats and even gondolas were a common sight in the harbor. Tall ships can still be seen thanks to a program offered by the Newport Harbor Nautical Museum. The square top-sail schooner Lynx, a replica of an 1812 tall ship, docks at the museum for educational tours and voyages. And about those speedboats—it’s hard to believe they were allowed to actually race around the harbor and out into the ocean. Of course, that was years ago before thousands of boats made that type of activity unsafe. Another activity that was popular back then but is no longer allowed is waterskiing.

Newport to Ensenada Yacht Race

Getting ready for the Newport to Ensenada race

A model ship at the Newport Harbor Nautical Museum

Racing at the Newport Autumn Rowing Festival

Marshall Duffield, inventor of the Duffy Boat

Duffy boats waiting for passengers

Regattas are frequently held in and around Newport Harbor, including the largest international sailing race in the world: the Newport to Ensenada International Yacht Race, started in 1948 and still going strong. Hundreds of boats in various classes compete, cheered on by thousands of onlookers watching from shore. The Flight of the Lasers (formerly the Flight of the Snowbirds) is one of the most amazing sights in the harbor. Every summer since 1935, hundreds of the small Laser sailboats take to the water and fill the harbor for a five-mile race sponsored by the Commodore’s Club of the Newport Beach Chamber of Commerce. One of the newer boats seen slowly cruising the shoreline is the Duffy Boat, invented by Newport Beach resident Marshall “Duffy” Duffield. He experimented with a broken boat engine by replacing the gasoline-powered model with a golf cart motor. The idea worked, and now Duffy electric boats are sold worldwide, particularly in Newport Beach. They may not be fast, but they sure are fun. Several boat rental companies are located in Newport Beach, but for folks who don’t want to pilot their own craft, charter boat companies are A romantic gondola ride around the bay

Boats docked in Newport Harbor

Ready to race

A hot tub aboard a luxury yacht

Tournament of Lights parade float, circa 1929

Character boat parade

Newport Beach Christmas Boat Parade

Tournament of Lights, 1927

Fourth of July parade

Pirates on parade, 1936

Surf’s up in Newport

The Tournament of Lights Parade was not held during WWII, due to the mandatory dim out. ready to provide harbor cruises and gondola rides. A big draw every spring is the annual Newport Boat Show at Lido Marina Village. This is the largest big-boat in-water show in the West, and features a plethora of pleasure boats bobbing side by side in the water.

Fun In The Water Perhaps the most popular spectator event is the annual Christmas Boat Parade, which draws nearly a million people to the banks of Newport Harbor over five days in December to watch a procession of 200 elaborately-decorated boats slowly glide around the harbor. The parade was originally a summertime event and dates back to August of 1908, when Italian gondolier John Scarpa – a pioneering Newport entrepreneur – decided to promote his fledgling businesses of chauffeuring couples around the harbor in his gondola. He adorned his craft and eight canoes with Japanese lanterns and paraded them around the harbor, much to the amusement (or perhaps bemusement) of the few residents and visitors who lived in Newport Beach. In 1921, the original concept was expanded as a floating copy of Pasadena’s Tournament of Roses Parade. This new Tournament of Lights featured boat floats that were pulled around the harbor. The parade became a holiday-themed event in 1948 that has grown in popularity over the years. Now, hundreds of boats not only participate, they carry passengers that get an up-close view of a delightful Christmas tradition. Another fun water tradition that began in the mid-1950s as the Character Boat Parade is now known as the Fourth of July Boat Parade, although anyone who’s watched this patriotic parade will tell you it’s still packed with character. If it’s an exciting spectator sport you crave, then hit the beach and watch the talented surfers do battle with the waves along the coast of Newport. The biggest battle is held at the end of Newport Peninsula at a spot called The Wedge, renowned as California’s extreme bodysurfing location. Why extreme? One look at the monster waves generated by the harbor’s jetty is enough to keep most onlookers out of the water. Only the best surfers attempt to conquer The Wedge, and their often-spectacular wipeouts are a photographer’s dream. 51

Wipeout

Having fun at the beach

Surfing pioneer Duke Kahanamoku brought the sport to Newport

Famous surfing pioneer Duke Kahanamoku brought surfing to the southland when he came to Corona del Mar from Hawaii in the 1920s to promote the wave-riding sport. He started the area’s first surfing competitions, which continued in Corona del Mar into the 1930s. Kayakers and rowers enjoy the tranquil waters of the Upper Back Bay and the waterways that meander around the Newport Harbor. Kayak tours of the back bay are held frequently, but it’s a common sight to see a solitary kayaker enjoying the wildlife while silently paddling through the water. Whale watching excursions from January through March take orca fans out of the harbor to watch migrating whales. Don’t be surprised if you see a few sea lions along the way—these playful creatures have adopted Newport Beach as their unofficial home. Even dogs love a day at Newport Beach

Rowing team from Newport Aquatic Center

A lazy day at the beach

A tall ship sails past Corona del Mar

Sea lions love Newport Harbor

Kayakers training in Newport Bay

Two favorite ways to spend the day in Newport Beach: sailing and fishing

H O O K, LI NE & S INK E R Something’s fishy in Newport, but don’t worry—fishing has long been one of the primary pastimes in Newport Beach. People fished in Newport Harbor long before the McFadden brothers built their wharf in 1888, but that sturdy structure provided a prime means for amateur anglers of all ages to drop a line in the water and hope for a fish to take the bait. Back then, fishing tackle was little more than a bamboo pole with a line and a hook. But even with that primitive equipment, fishing offered a terrific means to bring home a great meal. In 1891, enterprising fishermen with dory boats began to develop a commercial fishing industry in Newport Beach, with their daily catch sold locally and at the dory fleet fish market next to the Newport Pier. The dory fleet has dwindled in number, but hearty fishermen still rise before dawn to push their boats into the waves in search of their catch of the day. In 1919, commercial fishing became big business in Newport Beach when several fish canneries opened to service the mackerel fishing fleet, which at that time numbered more than 100 boats. Sardines and tuna were also canned. Eventually, mackerel became scarce and the canneries closed, although one – Western Canners – is now an upscale restaurant and lounge called The Cannery. Antiques from the fishing days are displayed in the restaurant.

Newport Beach waterfront and dory fleet, 1920s.

Fishing on Newport Pier, 1939

Commercial fishing may have disappeared, but sportfishing is as popular as ever. On any given day, people line up at the railings of the Newport and Balboa piers, rod and reel in hand and the thought of an impressive catch on their minds. Fishing excursion boats are also plentiful, as they have been since the 1920s when boats first started taking anglers out into the ocean. At that time, fishing boats would dock at the Newport Pier, take on passengers and their fishing gear, and depart for a day of coastal fishing. Also popular during the 1920s and 30s was barge fishing. Fishing barges were anchored in the ocean during the summertime. Boats took anglers out to the barges and picked them up, along with their catches, later that day. 57

Anglers at Daveyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Locker, 1950s

Record marlin catch off Newport Beach, 1931

Sports fishing, 1940s

Western Canners Company, one of the local fish canneries in the 1930s and 40s

Newport Beach Sport fishing barges were anchored out in the ocean all summer long. One of the most popular sportfishing boats, Frontier, was built by Art Gronsky, who operated Art’s Landing. Anglers loved it because it was fast, comfortable, and low to the water. Ironically, the Frontier’s popularity continued after it ceased to be seaworthy. On the way to the scrap yard the boat sank near the jetty, but the area where the boat went down soon became a popular fishing spot. Before the Frontier went to its watery grave, it had its moment in local fishing lore. One of the most famous fish ever caught in local waters, Blackie the Black Sea Bass, was reeled in aboard the Frontier. Weighing in at an astounding 450 pounds, Blackie was used as a promotional display to endorse sportfishing in Newport Beach. He currently resides at the Newport Harbor Nautical Museum. A handful of sportfishing businesses still provide anglers with daily fishing excursions, including Newport Landing, Davey’s Locker, and several private charter companies. Several fishing associations have come and gone in Newport Beach, including the Newport Harbor Lady Anglers, but one group is still going strong and celebrates its 80th birthday in 2006: The Balboa Angling Club. In 1926, the group’s goal was to further the sport of rod and reel fishing, the conservation of fish, and the good will of fisherman—goals they continue to uphold today.

Dory boat next to Newport pier

Fishing on Balboa Pier

Surf fishing off Newport Beach

Premiere of modern surf classic Riding Giants at Lido Theater

H O L LY WOOD BY T H E SE A Hollywood has had a 100-year love affair with Newport Beach, and it’s still going strong. From the early 1900s when countless silent movies were shot along Newport’s shores to today’s television image of Newport Beach via The OC, countless celebrities have come to Newport Beach to work, to live, and to play. Internationally-renowned stage actress Helena Modjeska, a native of Poland famed for her Shakespearean roles, started the trend. After spending 20 years living in a rustic retreat she dubbed “Arden” (named after the forest in the Shakespeare play “As You Like It”) in what is now Modjeska Canyon, Modjeska moved to Newport Beach’s Bay Island in 1907, where she lived before passing away in 1909. Between 1910 and 1930 (the heyday of the silent film era), hundreds of movies were made in Orange County, many of them in Newport Beach. Corona del Mar and portions of the Newport Bay were popular sites for many film productions, including the Errol Flynn pirate classic, “Captain Blood,” the Douglas Fairbanks version of “The Three Musketeers,” and one of several silent versions of “Cleopatra.” Buster Keaton made “The Boat” and “The Navigator” on Balboa Island in 1921, while the 1930 film, “All Quiet on the Western Front” was filmed on the rugged land near what is now Fashion Island. Movie-making in Newport declined in the 1930s as sound pictures replaced silent ones. Due to the early sound technology, most movies were shot on a Hollywood sound stage, but that didn’t mean Hollywood stopped coming to Newport. Scores of movie stars, directors, producers, and other celebrities flocked to Newport Beach. Many enjoyed sailing around the bay or racing their speedboats. Some liked the area so much they moved here, including Newport’s most famous resident, John Wayne. Legend has it that the young Marion Morrison (who later changed his name to John Wayne) had a bodysurfing accident near the Balboa Pier in the 1920s, which led him to give up a fabled football career at USC. Football’s loss was Hollywood’s gain, because John Wayne became one of the most famous and recognizable movie stars of all time.

Actress Helena Modjeska, late 1800s

Filming All Quiet on the Western Front, 1930

Filming Captain Blood in Newport Beach, 1924

Movie set, 1920s

Errol Flynnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sailboat Sirocco

Ronald Reagan

Cecile B. DeMille

Errol Flynn and friends aboard his sailboat

John Wayne aboard the Wild Goose

John Wayneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s former home

John Wayne cruises Newport Harbor in the 1940s

Humphrey Bogart aboard his boat Santana

Bogart and Lauren Bacall aboard the Santana

Ernest Hemingway fishing off the coast of Newport Beach.

“Tarzan” Johnny Weissmuller’s paddleboard rentals

Olivia de Haviland at the Balboa Bay club in 1978

Joey Bishop at the Balboa Bay Club

Newport Beach Film Festival has become one of the top film festivals in the country

The TV series Arrested Development is set on Balboa Island Wayne moved to Newport Beach in the 1960s and bought a bayfront home so he could dock his 135-foot boat, The Wild Goose, an old mine sweeper that had been converted into a luxury yacht. There are well-known tales of all-night poker games with actor friends aboard The Wild Goose. Wayne also enjoyed waving to people in tour boats that cruised by his home. John Wayne is buried in Pacific View Memorial Park in Newport Beach. Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall spent many hours in Newport aboard their boat, Santana. One favorite story that may be more fiction than fact suggests that Bogart once called Bacall and told her that he was going to walk all the way from Newport to Los Angeles to meet her. Bacall drove down Pacific Coast Highway and discovered Bogart walking up the road with a flower sticking out of his lapel. Another frequent visitor to Newport Beach, James Cagney, supposedly once won a home on Collins Island in a poker game. Tyrone Powers honeymooned on Lido Island in 1958, and sailed his sloop, The Black Swan, with fellow actors Rock Hudson and Claire Trevor. Buddy Ebsen (of Beverly Hillbillies fame) lived in Newport for many years in a home now occupied by Joey Bishop. A host of other celebrities also lived or played in Newport Beach, including Edgar Bergen and his daughter Candice, Shirley Temple, George Burns, Michelle Pfeiffer (who attended Newport Harbor High School), surf guitar pioneer Dick Dale, Vanna White, and many others. A handful of celebrities still call Newport home. Actor Nicholas Cage, basketball superstar Kobe Bryant, and best-selling author Dean Koontz are among Newport’s famous residents. Movie making still happens in Newport Beach, and so do movie screenings thanks to the renowned Newport Beach Film Festival, which in seven years has grown to become one of the most respected film festivals in the world. More than 30,000 people attend the Festival’s hundreds of film screenings every spring. The Newport Beach Film Festival gained notoriety after it premiered the movie “Crash” at the 2005 Festival. The film went on to win the Academy Award for Best Picture in 2006, cementing the Film Festival’s reputation as the premier place to see the best independent films. 65

Carroll Beek (with Joseph at left) wins Man of the Year in 1962

Carroll and Joseph Beek in Newport Harbor, circa 1919

The young Beek boys in 1946: Allen, Seymour and Barton

H O M ETOW N C EL E B R I TI E S An entire volume could be written about the many people who have contributed to the development of Newport Beach. Some are from families with a century of service to the city, while others made their mark with a single noteworthy event. Selecting only a handful of individuals to profile is extremely subjective, but we’ve chosen a few that represent significant chapters and moments in the history of Newport Beach.

Beek Family The McFadden brothers may have helped with the founding of Newport Beach, but it’s been the Beek family that for nearly 100 years has helped make Newport Beach such a wonderful place in which to live. The Beek legacy begins in 1907, when college student Joseph Beek came to Balboa and was intrigued by the area. After working briefly as a carpenter, Beek was recruited to sell lots on the island. Beek organized regular excursions from Pasadena and brought potential land buyers to Balboa Island for activities such as clam bakes. Beek was so successful that he eventually helped develop other areas of the harbor, including Beacon Bay, Harbor Island and Bayside Drive. In 1919, Joe Beek took over operation of the floundering Balboa Island Ferry service, which the Beek family still runs. He purchased the Island Boat House, where the Balboa Ferry office is today, and converted it into a onebedroom apartment. Beek also built his own home, which his son Seymour lives in today. He participated in local committees and councils, and served as secretary of the California State Senate. His wife, Carroll, whom Joe married in 1920, supported his efforts and, after Joe’s death in 1968, lobbied for the defeat of the Pacific Coast Freeway. She also promoted the protection of the back bay and served as a tireless volunteer for Hoag Hospital. Joe and Carroll Beek had three sons – Barton, Allan and Seymour – that still live in the area and contribute to the community. Barton is an attorney and sailor, Allan is an environmental and political activist, and Seymour is active in the Newport Beach Chamber of Commerce and the Harbor Commission.

Pioneer aviator Glenn Martin

Pilot Eddie Martin in 1942

Joseph, Carroll and Seymour Beek are all past recipients of the Citizen of the Year award, presented annually by the Chamber of Commerce.

William Lusk Another Citizen of the Year, William Lusk, was honored in 2005 when the Newport Beach City Council proclaimed Wednesday, August 10, as William D. Lusk Day in Newport Beach. A 40 year resident of Newport Beach, William Lusk and his family business, The Lusk Company, have built more than 3,500 homes in Newport Beach and Orange County. He has served the community in many capacities, including President of the Newport Harbor Area Chamber of Commerce, Skipper of the Commodore’s Club, Director of Hoag Hospital’s 552 Club, and member of the Newport Beach Traffic Advisory Committee.

Robert Gardner

Three local business heavyweights at the Balboa Bay Club: George Argyros, General William Lyon and Robert Maguire.

Judge Robert Gardner—the “surfing judge”

Affectionately known as The Surfing Judge, Judge Robert Gardner spent 60 years on the bench and was known for his outspoken opinions and fair judgments. His nickname came from his favorite pastime, which he pursued well into his eighties. Judge Gardner even wrote a book in 1970 called The “Art of Body Surfing,” one of the earliest books on the subject. Another of his books, “Bawdy Balboa,” explores the early history of the town by a man who, as he says in the book’s introduction, “observed it from café counter, breaking surf, and judicial bench in the roaring twenties and not-so-roaring thirties.” For many years, Judge Gardner penned a wonderful column for the Daily Pilot that featured his reminiscences on life in Newport Beach. Sadly, Judge Gardner passed away in 2005 at age 93, but his wit and wisdom will live on through his writings.

John & Donna Crean An invitation to an event at Village Crean means one thing: John and Donna Crean have opened their Newport Beach home for another charity event. The Creans founded and developed a highly successful company manufacturing recreational vehicles, and they have shared that success by contributing to numerous local charitable organizations and non-profit groups. Their home sits on a large lot and is perfect for hosting charity events, which they frequently do for groups that need a place to stage a fundraiser. 68

Joseph, Carroll and Seymour Beek are all past recipients of the Newport Beach Citizen of the Year award. Among the many local causes the Creans have supported is the new Mariner’s Branch Library, renamed the Donna & John Crean Mariner’s Branch Library to honor their commitment and support for the community.

Other Notable Names On May 10, 1912, Glenn L. Martin flew his self-designed “aero-hydroplane” equipped with pontoons from the waters of the Pacific Ocean at Balboa to Catalina Island. This was the first water-to-water flight, and the longest and fastest flight over water to that date. On his return to the mainland, Martin carried the day’s mail from Catalina—another first. Martin went on to break many other flying records. In 1923, aviation pioneer Eddie Martin (no relation to Glenn Martin) built a private landing strip and founded a flying school on land at the intersection of Newport Avenue and Main Street owned by The Irvine Company. It was eventually taken over by the Army Air Forces as a training base (although some maps of the area from that period show Eddie Martin Field and the Army facility as being two separate airports). In the postwar years Eddie Martin Field became John Wayne Airport. Five former Rose Parade Queens reside in Newport Beach: Norma Winton (1947), Nancy Thorne Skinner (1952), Ann Mossberg Hall (1957), Robin Carr Sanders (1975), and Anne Martin Wortmann (1976). All made appearances during the centennial year to help promote the city’s float in the 2006 Tournament of Roses Parade.

Bill Grundy

John Crean

Five former Rose Queens live in Newport Beach: Norma Winton (1942), Nancy Skinner (1952), Ann Hall (1957), Robin Sanders (1975) and Anne Wortmann (1976).

Other names that have long associations with Newport Beach include: Peter Barrett: former councilman who with his father owned Port Orange, a fishing port on Coast Highway. He was involved with the first Christmas Parade of Lights and the Character Boat Parade. Bill Grundy: Bill is founder and President of the Newport Beach Historical Society and a member of the Newport Harbor and Lido Isle Yacht Clubs. His father was the first Newport Beach doctor. Art Gronsky Once owned the Balboa Pavilion and Art’s Landing; co-inventor of the Hamilton Water Rake with Bill Hamilton. 69

Nighttime at the Balboa Pavilion

L I VE LY L A N DMA R K S Every city has its local landmarks; Newport Beach has dozens of them. However, one landmark stands out as the icon for Newport Beach: the Balboa Pavilion. Built in 1905-1906, the Balboa Pavilion is Newport Beach’s oldest standing structure, recognized for its long sloping roof and ornate Victorian cupola at its crown. The Pavilion has played an important role over the years in bringing visitors to Newport Beach, thereby establishing the town as a seaside recreational area and thriving residential community. The War Department in Washington granted Newport Bay Investment Company permission to construct the Pavilion in 1905. Construction proved challenging, as the Pavilion could only be reached by boat or via a sandy road. However, when it was announced that the Pacific Electric Red Car Line would be extended to Balboa, the Pavilion workers rushed to complete their task. The Balboa Pavilion opened on July 1, 1906, just in time for the arrival of the first Red Line car on July 4. Nearly 1,000 beachgoers took the one-hour train ride from Los Angeles. When they arrived, they found the Balboa Pier (constructed simultaneously with the Pavilion) and the Balboa Hotel, built in just 10 days to accommodate the expected visitors. The original building consisted of a large meeting room on the second floor and a bath house on the first floor, where people could change from street clothes into bathing suits. As more visitors came to the Pavilion, a variety of activities were added and a small town grew around the structure. At various times, the Pavilion housed a post office, barber shop, bowling alley, art museum, gambling parlor, dance hall, and restaurant. Speedboat rides, harbor excursions and sport fishing boats began operating out of the Pavilion, and regular bathing beauty contests were held, with contestants parading around Balboa and then returning to the Pavilion to be judged. During the 1930s, the Balboa Pavilion became a popular dance hall that hosted many legends of the Big Band era, including Count Basie and Benny Goodman. The dance step called The Balboa is said to have originated at the Pavilion, although the nearby Rendezvous Ballroom made the same claim. Dancing at the Pavilion began to decline, but gambling was still going strong—blackjack, penny roulette and other card games kept customers

Balboa Pavilion 100 years ago…

…and today

Balboa Island Ferry

Since its inception, the Balboa Ferry has ferried more than 75 million people. coming through the doors. In the 1940s, the upstairs area was converted into a 10-lane bowling alley, along with an archery range and an area with pool tables. The Gronsky Family purchased the Pavilion in the late 1940s and renovated the building, reopening it in 1949. The upstairs switched to a bingo parlor, which was outlawed in 1952 and subsequently shut down. Art Gronsky opened a shell museum upstairs in 1954, which at one time displayed more than two million shells. The collection was eventually donated to the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana. From 1962 to 1970, the Pavilion housed the Newport Harbor Art Museum, which became the Orange County Museum of Art when it moved to its current location in Newport Center. In 1969, Davey’s Locker purchased the Pavilion to provide a permanent terminal for the expansion of its Catalina Island passenger service. The building’s interior was refurbished to reflect the turn-of-the-century architecture. In 1980, the Balboa Pavilion Company branched off from Davey’s Locker and took over ownership of the Pavilion. Recent additions include the Harborside Restaurant. In 1968, the Balboa Pavilion was named a California State Historic Landmark. The Pavilion is also listed in the National Register of Historic Places, the highest honor a historic building can receive.

Nick Silkebakken pilots a ferry boat

Balboa Ferry Another local landmark that’s been around for nearly 90 years might be more aptly be dubbed a “watermark,” since it spends all of its time floating in the Newport Harbor: the Balboa Island Ferry. Several people operated rudimentary ferries in the early 1900s, but it was Joseph Beek who successfully began operation of the Balboa Island Ferry in 1919. His first ferry was named “The Ark,” and was little more than a large rowboat with an outboard motor. “The Fat Ferry” appeared in 1920, and was able to carry 20 passengers. It could also be lashed to a barge that pushed cars to and from the island. This led to “The Joker” in 1922, a 32-foot ferry that held two automobiles. This same ferry concept continued with a newer fleet of ferries introduced in

Balboa Ferry, circa 1924

Balboa Island Ferry, 1921

Ferry from above

the 1950s and still going strong today: the “Admiral,” the “Captain,” and the “Commodore.” The Beek family still owns and operates the Balboa Island Ferry, which carries more than 1.5 million passengers a year. The fare has increased from a nickel back in the 1920s to sixty cents today ($1.50 for auto and driver), still a relative bargain.

The Arches The original Arches was a gas station and cafe

“Meet me at the Arches,” 1930

The Arches today

Arches owner Dan Marcheano

“Meet me at The Arches” was a popular phrase for travelers driving up or down the Southern California coast between San Diego and Los Angeles. They often needed a place to meet, and the halfway point seemed to be a gas station and café called The Arches, named for its distinctive architecture. Located at what is now the corner of Newport Boulevard and Coast Highway, The Arches was a popular hangout for celebrities such as Gary Cooper, Tyrone Power, Frank Sinatra, Humphrey Bogart, John Wayne and many others. Shirley Temple dined there in 1936 after cutting the ribbon at the dedication ceremony for Newport Harbor. The gas station is gone, but the Arches restaurant is busy as ever. Current owner Danny Marcheano, who purchased the restaurant in 1982, has kept the focus on fine food and great service. His efforts continue to attract a notable clientele that has included sports greats Cal Ripkin, Shaquille O’Neal and Reggie Jackson.

Rendezvous Ballroom The block-long Rendezvous Ballroom opened its doors to music and dancing in 1928. The 12,000 square foot dance floor could accommodate more than 1,500 couples, while a 64-foot long soda fountain and dozens of couches, plus another smaller soda fountain and more couches on the mezzanine, offered a place to rest and recharge for the next dance. In the 1930s, teenagers began flocking to Balboa during spring break. They spent the day at the beach and the night dancing to the sounds of big band jazz. Admission was 10 cents, and coats and ties were a must. An impressive lineup of musicians played at the Rendezvous between 1928 and 1966, including the Andrews Sisters, Les Brown, Nat King Cole, Bing Crosby, Bob Crosby, Dick Dale, Tommy Dorsey, Jimmy Dorsey, Benny Goodman, Lionel Hampton, Woody Herman, Harry James, Stan Kenton, Gene Krupa, Guy Lombardo, the Righteous Brothers, and Artie Shaw. 74

Rendezvous Ballroom fire, 1966

Rendezvous Ballroom

Rendezvous Ballroom fire, 1935

Swing dancing in front of the Rendezvous Ballroom

Stan Kenton and his band at the Rendezvous Ballroom

A packed Rendezvous Ballroom

Balboa Bay Club

In 1938 the Rendezvous Ballroom was dubbed the “Queen of Swing” by Look Magazine The Rendezvous went up in flames in January of 1935, but a bigger and better Rendezvous Ballroom was built on the same site in just three months. It burned to the ground again in 1966, and was never rebuilt. An apartment complex was constructed in its place. An Orange County historical marker serves as a reminder of the musical fun that used to take place in the Rendezvous.

Balboa Bay Club In 1947, local businessmen Thomas Henderson and Hadd Ring came up with a plan to build a family-oriented club along Coast Highway that would offer the finest in hospitality, dining and entertainment. The City of Newport Beach approved the plan, and the Balboa Bay Club was built. During the next few decades, the Balboa Bay Club grew to become a respected social destination that drew scores of celebrities and politicians to its upscale setting. John Wayne was a Balboa Bay Club governor, and Ronald Reagan, Joey Bishop and other notable names frequented the club. The club was remodeled several years ago and a new hotel wing was added. The Balboa Bay Club’s understated elegance and sophistication continue to charm visitors.

Ready for dining at the Balboa Bay club

Relaxing at the Balboa Bay Club

Aerial photo of Balboa Bay Club, 1957

Other Landmarks Several movie theaters are located at Fashion Island, but Newport Beach has a trio of classic movie palaces that date back nearly 80 years, although only one has been in continuous operation. Built in 1939, the Lido Theater is an art deco movie house with a balcony and sea life murals on the walls. The small box office booth is unattached to the theater, a rarity among modern movie theaters. The theater screens primarily documentaries and foreign films, and it’s one of the locations for the Newport Beach Film Festival. The first film ever screened at The Lido was “Jezebel” starring Bette Davis. At that time, Davis lived near the site where the Lido Theater was being built, and more than once she remarked that they had better open the theater with one of her films, which they did. The Balboa Theater opened in 1928 as the Ritz Theater, which offered vaudeville shows as well as silent movies. Trolleys that ran down the middle 77

Port Theater in Corona del Mar

Lido Theater

Lining up for Rocky Horror Picture Show at Balboa Theater

of Balboa Blvd. regularly brought scores of people to the Ritz Theater, and the theater became known as a hot spot for local society and Hollywood celebrities. In 1939, the Ritz was renamed the Balboa Theater. Many of the bestloved Hollywood movies were screened at the Balboa Theater during the 1940s, ‘50s and ‘60s. The theater later became a revival and art film house, screening everything from classic and foreign films to midnight screenings of The Rocky Horror Picture Show before closing its doors in 1992. The Balboa Performing Arts Theater Foundation is working to turn the theater into a multi-use facility for dance, music, theater and film presentations. The Port Theater opened in the 1950s and served Corona del Mar for nearly four decades before closing in the 1990s after competition from theater megaplex theaters caused attendance to dwindle. It is currently for sale. Other longtime landmark is the Shake Shack, a roadside shake stand on the outskirts of Newport Beach’s border with Laguna Beach. For many decades, the Shake Shack has provided motorists and cyclists with a place to pause on their coastal journey and enjoy a fresh shake or sandwich while looking out over Crystal Cove. One final landmark that will soon be gone but not forgotten: the Pride of Newport paddlewheeler, formerly known as the Reuben E. Lee Restaurant. The Pride of Newport has housed the Newport Harbor Nautical Museum since 1994, but the museum purchased land in the Balboa Fun Zone and plans to relocate there by the end of 2006. Once it does, the Pride of Newport – which is a replica of a paddlewheeler and not too seaworthy – will be sold and most likely moved.

The Pride of Newport, formerly the Reuben E. Lee

The Shake Shack

Historic Crystal Cove cottages

Having fun on the Ferris wheel at the Fun Zone

F U N , F UN, FU N Fun is the name of the game in Newport Beach, and not just in the water. There’s plenty to see and do on land, too. The City has a variety of wonderful cultural events and venues – including theaters and museums – plus world-class recreational facilities such as tennis centers and golf courses. Today’s entertainment options are markedly different from the ones available to the visitors that flocked to Newport Beach in the early part of the 20th century. Pool parlors, dance halls and speakeasies were the order of the day in the roaring ‘20s. The Balboa Pavilion, a favorite recreational site with bowling, badminton, archery and other diversions, played host to many great bandleaders and their ensembles, including Paul Whiteman and Abe Lyman. Bathing beauty contests drew scores of onlookers to Balboa beach during the 20s and 30s. Built in 1928 as a vaudeville house and movie theater, the Ritz Theater was a popular hangout for the Hollywood crowd as well as locals. The Ritz Theater was later renamed the Balboa Theater and became famous in the 1970s and ‘80s for its midnight screenings of “The Rocky Horror Picture Show.” The Rendezvous Ballroom, also built in 1928, was the site for numerous notable concerts by Benny Goodman, Guy Lombardo and Stan Kenton. In later years, a new audience flocked to the Rendezvous to listen to the king of surf guitar music, Dick Dale.

Early bathing beauty contest in Balboa

Crowds in Balboa Fun Zone, circa 1940s

For more than 70 years, a prime spot for fun has been The Fun Zone, an old-fashioned amusement area located along the waterfront in downtown Balboa near the Balboa Pavilion. Originally built in 1936 by Al Anderson on the site of an old boat yard, the Fun Zone quickly became the place to go in Newport Beach. Families flocked to the iconic Ferris wheel, a merry-go-round, kiddy rides, arcade games, hot dog and ice cream stands (the famed Balboa Bar originated here), and souvenir shops. Sailboat and motorboat rentals have

In June of 1921, thousands of onlookers witnessed the second annual Balboa Bathing Girls Parade. Jewel Pathe won first place and a $25 cash prize. 81

American Legion Women, 1936

Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bathing parade

Dick Dale and the Deltones

Girls on the boardwalk, 1950s

The 18th green at Pelican Hill Golf Course

Jack Nicklaus and Tom Watson at Senior PGA match at Pelican Hill Teri Nunn of the group Berlin performs at Fashion Island

John Clayton at Newport Jazz Party

Chuck Mangione at the Hyatt Newporter

been popular for many years, as have sightseeing cruises of the harbor. Little has changed at the Fun Zone over the years. High scores in Skeeball can still yield a prize, the Ferris wheel still delights children, and bicycle, in-line skate and boat rentals are as busy as ever. New Fun Zone plans include a move by the Newport Harbor Nautical Museum from their current home on the Pride of Newport riverboat replica to space now occupied by many Fun Zone rides. Dated rides will be removed and a sparkling new museum built, but you can be sure that key Fun Zone elements such as the Ferris wheel will still be around for a very long time. With our ideal climate, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no surprise that outdoor sports are very popular in Newport Beach. Golfing in Newport Beach began in 1915 when the Orange County Country Club (now Santa Ana Country Club) leased 160 acres on the bluff above Newport Landing from the Irvine Company to lay out a golf course. Artists rendering of the new Newport Harbor Nautical Museum at the Fun Zone

Balboa Performing Arts Theaterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Movies on the Beach

That course is gone, but Newport Beach can rightly be called a golfer’s paradise thanks to several stunning courses located throughout the City, including Pelican Hill in Newport Coast, which features a pair of Tom Faziodesigned courses that offer dramatic vistas of the Pacific Ocean. The Toshiba Senior Classic held every spring at the Newport Beach Country Club consistently draws the top senior players in the world. As the largest annual fundraiser for Hoag Hospital, the tournament has raised more than $8 million to date. Tennis fans can catch the action of World Team Tennis’ Newport Beach Breakers at the Palisades Tennis Club. The team served an ace in 2006 when it signed up 14-time Grand Slam champion Pete Sampras.

Collecting shells

Annual Race for the Cure in Fashion Island

Balboa Island’s annual “Island Day” parade

Music can be heard wafting in the ocean breeze every summer thanks to the Hyatt Regency’s Summer Jazz Series, which brings in top name performers to the hotel’s outdoor amphitheatre. The annual Fashion Island Concert Series held every summer brings thousands of music lovers who bring picnic dinners to enjoy while watching their favorite artists. Fashion Island also has regular roster of local musicians who entertain shoppers on weekends. During the summer, family films are shown on a large screen at the Newport Dunes Aquatic Center. The Balboa Performing Arts Theater also offers outdoor movies – usually the latest surf films from Quiksilver and others – on a large screen in the park next to the Balboa Pier. Once a small museum that focused on local and regional artists, the Orange County Museum of Art in Newport Center has garnered national acclaim with its cutting-edge exhibits and eclectic ancillary events. The museum’s monthly Orange Crush evenings feature local bands and a DJ. The Newport Harbor Nautical Museum has been teaching visitors about the colorful maritime history of the area since 1986. The Nautical Museum contains exhibit galleries, a classroom, a library, and gift shop. Visitors can explore the history of Newport Harbor, peruse a beautiful model ship collection, and enjoy one of the showcase exhibits on display. One of the top regional theaters in the country is the Tony Award-winning South Coast Repertory. They’ve been around for more than 40 years (most of those in neighboring Costa Mesa), and got their start in 1965 when founders Martin Benson and David Emmes started a tiny theater in a former marine swap shop on Balboa Peninsula. They moved to Costa Mesa

Christmas decorations on Balboa Island

Skating in Balboa

Children at play at Newport Dunes

Trimming the Christmas tree in Newport

Christmas Boat Parade

three years later, but those formative years in Newport helped shape the theater’s direction. A large portion of South Coast Rep’s subscribers still come from Newport Beach. Live theater can also be enjoyed at Newport Theatre Arts Center, a charming 90-seat venue located inside a former church perched along a grassy bluff overlooking Newport Bay and Mariners Mile. The theatre has been producing plays for nearly 30 years and has an impressive track record of staging some of the best non-professional shows in the area. Just getting around town is fun when you take a ride in the OC Cruiser, a high-end shuttle service designed to look like a classic Woody car with bamboo ceilings and wood-panel sides. The interior is plush with leather seats, flat-screen televisions beaming surf videos and a high-tech sound system. The OC Cruiser makes frequent stops at shopping centers and attractions throughout Newport Beach. Sandcastle contest in Corona del Mar

Orange County Museum of Art

“Holiday” at Newport Theater Arts Center

Newport Beach Fire Department, Company 1, Balboa

B EH IND THE S C E NE S What does it take to keep Newport Beach running at full speed? It takes teams of people in city government and services, police and fire departments, lifeguards, libraries, schools, and hospitals to ensure that our community’s infrastructure is the best it can be.

Police Department The first City Hall was located east of the Newport Pier on the Oceanfront. The Police Department used several offices in City Hall until they moved to their own building on Court Avenue. Various Marshals headed the Newport Beach Police Department until 1928, when Rowland R. Hodgkinson was made the first Chief of the Newport Beach Police Department. Chief Hodgkinson retired in 1952 after 25 years of service, which at the time was the longest tenure of any police chief in California. John Upson assumed the role of chief for nine years, followed by B. James Glavas, a former captain with the Los Angeles Police Department. Many changes occurred within the department between 1961 and 1977 under Glavas’ command. The Police Department moved from City Hall on 32nd Street to its new building on Santa Barbara Drive in 1974 and installed its first computer-aided dispatch system in 1976. Charles Gross served as Chief from 1977 to 1985, followed by Arb Campbell, a former Newport Beach patrolman who rose through the ranks. Chief Campbell left the Department in 1993. Chief of Police Bob McDonell was appointed in 1993, and has implemented many innovative programs, including a joint helicopter program with the Costa Mesa Police Department and Mobile Data Computers in all marked police vehicles.

Ray Cook, Bob Brockie and Gary Chung use the Police Department locker room as a briefing place in the 1950s

Newport-Balboa Press newspaper office, circa 1940s

Fire Department In Newport’s early years, an all-volunteer fire brigade served the City. When a fire damaged the City Council’s meeting chambers in 1910, the City decided that perhaps a permanent fire department might be in order. By the end of that year, Newport Beach had its first fire chief, W.A. 91

Chief Crocker in his dual role as Chief of Fire and Lifeguard Junior Lifeguards in 2005

Newport Beach lifeguards, 1937

Cornelius (editor of The Newport News), and a 15-member Newport Beach Fire Department had been approved. In 1923, the City Lifeguard Services department was created under the supervision of the Fire Department. Frank Crocker was appointed Fire Chief in 1927, and during his 30-year reign major enhancements were made to the Cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fire defenses by employing fire codes, prevention programs and communication systems. By 1957, the number of fire stations serving Newport Beach had grown from one to five and full-time personnel had increased from three to 40. Today, Newport Beach has eight fully-staffed fire stations and three paramedic ambulances. Newport Beach has had several notable fires over the past 80 years. The most famous fire was actually two separate fires that occurred 30 years apart. The Rendezvous Ballroom, a popular dance hall that featured big bands and later rock and roll, burned to the ground in 1935, was rebuilt, and burned again in 1966. Another notable fire, the Mariners Mile fire of 1975, burned an entire block of buildings along Coast Highway. The Laguna Beach wildfire in 1993 threatened numerous homes along Newport Coast Drive, and many Newport Beach firefighters successfully fought the blaze over several days.

Lifeguards, Libraries & Learning With thousands of sun worshipers flocking daily to our coastal community, lifeguards are needed to make sure that a fun day at the beach stays that way. How important are lifeguards? In 2004, Newport Beach lifeguards made more than 4,500 rescues and took 126,000 preventative actions. In between these heroic efforts, lifeguards get to patrol some of the most beautiful beaches in California. Newport Beach also has an active Junior Lifeguard program geared toward providing children ages nine to 15 with training in ocean safety, including how to properly prevent injury and respond correctly in emergency situations. Libraries help make any community vibrant. Newport Beach has a state-of-the-art main library and several branch libraries. In 1929, the Cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first library building was built on Balboa Boulevard (now Balboa Branch Library), followed in 1959 by the Corona del Mar Branch Library on Marigold Avenue. In 1963, the Mariners Branch Library opened with 10,000 books, 92

Newport’s first fire chief, W.A. Cornelius, was also the editor of Newport News. followed in 1980 by the Newport Center Branch Library on San Clemente Avenue. In 1994, the new Central Library on Avocado Avenue (replacing the Newport Center Branch Library) opened, built with the help of $2 million in donations from the community. The latest addition to the Newport Beach Library is the beautiful new Donna & John Crean Mariners Branch Library, which opened in 2006. Schools are important to any community, and Newport has some of the best, and oldest, in the county. Newport Elementary on Balboa Peninsula actually borders the beach, one of only two schools in the nation that enjoys this unique setting. It was built in 1935 after an earthquake destroyed the previous school. On September 22, 1930, Newport Harbor High School – built in just three months – welcomed 207 students and 12 faculty members. Back then the school consisted of a main building with a high tower visible throughout Newport Beach. Students came from Costa Mesa, Laguna Beach, Balboa Island, Lido Island, the Peninsula and Corona del Mar. In the late 1940s, the math building began construction, followed by the gym, metal shop, and snack bar. Army barracks were also installed to use as classrooms for the growing population. A girls’ gym, a pool, and a home arts building were also added. The school has gone from basic classes in agriculture to a well-rounded academic program, resulting in students who are accepted to the most prestigious colleges and universities in the nation. Athletics have been a big part of Newport Harbor High School’s heritage. Because of the proximity of the harbor, Newport athletes chose The Sailors as their mascot. Since 1930, the school has won at least one league championship every year, an impressive feat considering today’s local competition. More than 2,000 students attend classes at Newport Harbor High School.

byterian, a 409-bed, not-for-profit, acute care facility located on a bluff-top overlooking Newport Harbor. Hoag offers a comprehensive mix of healthcare services, including Centers of Excellence in cancer, heart and vascular, orthopedics and women’s health services. A Consumer Choice Award placed Hoag in the top five percent of hospitals nationwide, and Orange County residents have named Hoag the county’s top hospital for nine consecutive years. The hospital gets its name from Grace and George Hoag, local residents who loved Newport Beach. The Hoag Family Foundation’s contribution helped get the original 75-bed hospital opened in 1952—only the fourth hospital in Orange County and the first built since 1928. A 243-bed patient care tower was added in 1974, and the Sue and Bill Gross Women’s Pavilion was opened in 2006, bringing the bed total to 511. Hoag has a medical staff of 900 and nearly 4,000 employees, making it Newport Beach’s largest employer. Hoag Memorial Hospital Presbyterian

Playtime at Newport Elementary

Newport Harbor High School

Every community needs professional health care and hospitals, and Newport has one of the best in the nation: Hoag Memorial Hospital Pres93

FU L L SPEED AH EA D Commemorating a century called for a year-long party that appropriately started and ended on the beach. The celebration, themed “Sailing Through a Century,” offered Newport Beach the opportunity to honor its heritage through a variety of events enjoyed by residents and visitors alike.

Let’s Do Launch

Listening to The Beach Boys at Newport Dunes

Mike Love of the Beach Boys

Newport Beach Centennial volunteers

The Centennial Celebration kicked off on Sunday, October 2, 2005 with Let’s Do Launch, a gigantic beach party at Newport Dunes Waterfront Resort. More than 10,000 people enjoyed a day filled with fun family activities including continuous entertainment, games, food, community information booths, prize drawings and much more. And who better to help Newport Beach celebrate a century of beach culture than the band renowned as the quintessential purveyors of surf music: The Beach Boys. The group performed classic songs such as “Surfin’ USA” and other hits that epitomized the spirit of the California lifestyle.

A Day For Roses

Backstage with Beach Boy Bruce Johnston, Dean Torrance (Jan and Dean) and Mike Love

The City went from sand to roses when Newport Beach entered a float in the 2006 Tournament of Roses parade. Rain fell in Pasadena on parade day, but the weather did not dampen the spirits of the float riders or the throngs of spectators who turned out along the parade route. The colorful and creative float, designed by Raul Rodriguez and built by Fiesta Parade Floats, won the Lathrop K. Leishman trophy for Most Beautiful Non-Commercial Float. Elements on the float represented the past century of travel, commerce and recreation in Newport Beach, as well as local wildlife and other aspects of life in the city. Hundreds of volunteers spent countless hours decorating the float with an assortment of chrysanthemums, strawflower petals, magnolia leaves, coconut flakes, orange marigold petals, split pea beans, carnations, and – of course – an abundance of roses. The float was sponsored in part by Saunders Property Company and the Hezlep Family. The nine float riders (all from Newport Beach) included former Rose Parade Queens Nancy Thorne Skinner (1952), Ann Mossberg Hall

Artists rendering of Newport Beach Rose Parade float

Decorating the float

Newport Beach Mayor Don Webb

Newport Beach float takes shape

(1957), Robin Carr Sanders (1975), and Anne Martin Wortmann (1976), plus Newport Beach Mayor Don Webb, Mayor Pro Tem Steven Rosansky, and one of the float sponsors, Bruce Hezlep. Tess Hezlep and Kathleen Saunders rode atop the moving dolphins.

Dredges To Dreamboats The Centennial Celebration bloomed in the spring when the Newport Harbor Nautical Museum presented a special Centennial exhibit called “Dredges to Dreamboats: 100 Years of Nautical History,” which ran all summer in the museum’s main gallery aboard the Pride of Newport. The exhibit was designed in part by Cal State Fullerton Museum Studies graduate students Joanna Grasso, Julie Perlin Lee and Danielle Susalla, and offered a fascinating look at Newport Beach nautical folklore. It also examined the key role Newport Harbor has played in the nautical history of the West Coast. Visitors were able to view historic video footage of Newport Beach cleverly hidden in replicas of vintage coin binoculars similar to those at the Balboa and Newport Piers. Also in the exhibit were photos and film footage that captured the fascinating stories of local heroes and entrepreneurs who have left their mark on Newport Beach.

Other Centennial Events Fashion Island Concert Righteous Brother Bill Medley, a longtime resident of Newport Beach, 95

Newport Beach has had floats in two previous Rose Parades: the Newport Harbor Chamber of Commerce float in 1938, and the Newport/Balboa float in 1940

Dredges to Dreamboat exhibit at Newport Harbor Nautical Museum

Dredges to Dreamboats exhibit

rocked his hometown when he kicked off the annual Fashion Island Concert Series on July 12 as part of the Newport Beach Centennial Celebration. He performed a variety of Righteous Brothers hits, including “You’ve Lost That Lovin’ Feeling,” “Soul and Inspiration,” and “Unchained Melody.” Centennial Wine Tastings Life was a Cabernet in Newport Beach when Great Legs Wine Boutique in Newport Beach and The Wine Cellar in Corona del Mar hosted monthly Centennial Wine Tastings, with proceeds going to support the Centennial Celebration. Centennial Coloring Book Everyone knows that Newport Beach has a colorful history, so what better way to celebrate the City’s Centennial than with a Centennial Coloring Book created by Newport Beach illustrator Roger Folk that was distributed free to all elementary school students. The book contains more then two dozen black and white line drawings of famous moments and landmarks in Newport Beach, all waiting for a splash of color. Centennial Legacy Project The City of Newport Beach offered people an opportunity to be part of a permanent legacy that commemorates 100 years of history in Newport Beach through the McFadden Square Centennial Legacy Project. This Urban Beautification and Public Art initiative recognizes the importance of the City’s beginnings and honors the generous Centennial donors. Newport Beach landscape architectural design firm, Peridian International, created an exquisite design based on the timeless theme of a labyrinth. The focal point of the project is a bronze sphere sculpture depicting natural scenes of Newport Beach. Surrounding this sculpture is a walking path containing historical markers that salute significant events in the City’s history. Corporate and private donors can create a lasting legacy through a variety of naming opportunities.

Grand Finale To end the Centennial festivities with a bang, Newport Beach celebrated 100 Years Between the Piers on Sunday, October 8 with the largest beach party ever held on the West Coast. Presented by Hoag Memorial Hospital Presbyterian and Newport Lexus, 100 Years Between the Piers was a fun-filled day of music and activities that took place at the Newport and Balboa Piers and at the 15th Street district, and featured famous musical acts (including Sugar Ray and Dick Dale), food booths, games, kids activities, an art walk, a carnival, and much more. A fantastic fireworks finale displayed simultaneously from both piers concluded the City’s “Celebration of a Century.”

Full Speed Ahead The goal of the City of Newport Beach Centennial Celebration was to unify our neighborhoods through a series of events and activities that will enhance community spirit, honor our rich heritage, promote pride in our future, and celebrate the many unique opportunities Newport Beach has to offer. Looking back, it’s clear that the City did indeed accomplish its mission. So what do the next 100 years hold for Newport Beach? Hard to say, but one thing is certain: the City will continue to be a favorite place in which to live, work, shop and play. Happy Birthday, Newport Beach! And as Bogart would say, “Here’s looking at you, kid.”

Rendering of McFadden Square Legacy Project

Righteous Brother Bill Medley performs at Fashion Island

The City of Newport Beach is grateful to the following sponsors for their support of our Centennial Celebration: City of Newport Beach, Hoag Memorial Hospital Presbyterian, Newport Lexus, The Irvine Company, The Daily Pilot, The Current, Orange Coast Magazine, Coast Magazine, The Hezlep Family, Downey Savings, Marriott Newport Beach Hotel & Spa, Newport Dunes Waterfront Resort, Newport Orthopedics Institute, Pacific Life, Saunders Property Company, Stonebridge Productions, Washington Mutual Home Loans, Brookfield Homes, John Laing Homes, Land Rover, Newport Beach Conference & Visitors Bureau, The Yard House, Automobile Association of Southern California, Balboa Village BID, Catalina Passenger Service, Corona del Mar Centennial Foundation, Cox Communications, Dayna & Bob Pettit, Dayna Pettit & Cannery Village Realty, Greater Newport Physicians, Leo Gugasian, Lido Peninsula Company, Newport Beach Restaurants Association, Theodore Robins Ford, Wells Fargo, Chicago Title, Barry & Debra Allen, Sharon Esterly, Dr. Harvey Heinrichs, Nikki’s Flags, Don Webb, Westcliff Medical Laboratories.

PHOTO GR A PH Y CRE DIT S COVER: Top: Christopher Trela Bottom: Courtesy of First American Corp. Right: Dave Yoder, for the Orange County Register PAGE 2: Jebb Harris, Orange County Register PAGE 3: Courtesy of First American Corp. PAGE 5: Chas Metivier, Orange County Register PAGE 6: Mark Avery, Orange County Register PAGE 7: Top and bottom photos: Courtesy of City of Newport Beach PAGE 8: Top: Leonard Ortiz, Orange County Register Bottom left: Daniel A. Anderson, Orange County Register Bottom right: Christopher Trela PAGE 9: Top left: Ana Venegas, Orange County Register Top right: Mark Rightmire, Orange County Register Bottom: Chas Metivier, Orange County Register

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PAGE 44: Mike Schwartz, Orange County Register

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PAGE 13: Top: Christopher Trela Bottom Left: Newport Beach Conference & Visitors Bureau Bottom right: Eugene Garcia, Orange County Register

PAGE 31: Top: Courtesy of Newport Harbor Nautical Museum Bottom: Kevin Sullivan, Orange County Register

PAGE 16: Top left: Courtesy of Newport Beach Conference & Visitors Bureau Top right: Christopher Trela Bottom left: Christopher Trela Bottom right: Courtesy of Newport Beach Conference & Visitors Bureau PAGE 17: Top Left: Michael Goulding, Orange County Register Top right: Chas Metivier, Orange County Register Center: Chas Metivier, Orange County Register Bottom: Eugene Garcia, Orange County Register Far right: Chas Metivier, Orange County Register PAGE 18: Chas Metivier, Orange County Register PAGE 19: Top: Chas Metivier, Orange County Register Center left: Chas Metivier, Orange County Register Center right: Chas Metivier, Orange County Register Bottom: Steve Zylius, Orange County Register PAGE 20: Top: Christopher Trela Bottom left: Chas Metivier, Orange County Register Bottom center: Mark Avery, Orange County Register Bottom Right: Chas Metivier, Orange County Register PAGE 21: Top left: Chas Metivier, Orange County Register Top center: Dave Yoder, for the Orange County Register Top right: Chas Metivier, Orange County Register Bottom: Chas Metivier, Orange County Register

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PAGE 10: Andy Templeton

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PAGE 41: Top: Robert Rooks Bottom left: H. Lorren Au Jr., Orange County Register Bottom right: Courtesy of Newport Beach Conference & Visitors Bureau

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PAGE 34: Matt Eich, Orange County Register

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PAGE 49: Robert Rooks

PAGE 33: Top: Chas Metivier, Orange County Register Bottom: Chas Metivier, Orange County Register

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PAGE 50: Mark Rightmire, Orange County Register

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PAGE 53: Top left: Steve K. Zylius, Orange County Register Top right: Bruce Chambers, Orange County Register Bottom left: Chas Metivier, Orange County Register Bottom right: Mark Rightmire, Orange County Register PAGE 54: Eugene Garcia, Orange County Register PAGE 55: Top: Courtesy of City of Newport Beach Bottom: Courtesy of City of Newport Beach PAGE 56: Top left: Courtesy of City of Newport Beach Top right: Courtesy of City of Newport Beach Bottom left: Courtesy of Sherman Library/Newport Beach Historical Society Bottom right: Courtesy of First American Corp. PAGE 57: Top photo: Courtesy of Newport Beach Conference & Visitors Bureau Bottom left: Ana Venegas, Orange County Register Bottom right: Christopher Trela PAGE 58: Ana Venegas, Orange County Register PAGE 59: Top left: Courtesy of First American Corp. Top right: Courtesy of Sherman Library/Newport Beach Historical Society Bottom left: Courtesy of Newport Harbor Nautical Museum Bottom right: Courtesy of Sherman Library/Newport Beach Historical Society

PAGE 68: Robert Rooks

PAGE 70: Courtesy of Newport Beach Conference & Visitors Bureau PAGE 71: Top: Kevin Sullivan, Orange County Register Center left: Courtesy of the Beek Family/City of Newport Beach Center right: Courtesy of the Beek Family/City of Newport Beach Bottom: Kevin Sullivan, Orange County Register PAGE 72: Top: Courtesy of First American Corp. Center left: Courtesy of Sherman Library/Newport Beach Historical Society Center right: Courtesy of City of Newport Beach Bottom: Leonard Ortiz, Orange County Register PAGE 73: Top left: Courtesy of Sherman Library/Newport Beach Historical Society Top center: Courtesy of Newport Harbor Nautical Museum Top right: Courtesy of City of Newport Beach Centennial collection Bottom left: Courtesy of Newport Harbor Nautical Museum Center right: Courtesy of City of Newport Beach Centennial collection Bottom right: Courtesy of City of Newport Beach Centennial collection PAGE 74: Chas Metivier, Orange County Register PAGE 75: Top left: Courtesy of Newport Beach Conference & Visitors Bureau Top right: Courtesy of Newport Harbor Nautical Museum Bottom: Courtesy of Balboa Bay Club and Resort PAGE 76: Top left: Ygnacio Nanetti, Orange County Register Bottom left: Courtesy of Balboa Performing Arts Theater Right: File photo, Orange County Register PAGE 77: Top: Christopher Trela Bottom left: Michael Goulding, Orange County Register Bottom right: Chas Metivier, Orange County Register

PAGE 78: H. Lorren Au Jr., Orange County Register PAGE 79: Top: Courtesy of First American Corp. Bottom: Courtesy of Sherman Library/Newport Beach Historical Society PAGE 80: Top left: Courtesy of Newport Harbor Nautical Museum Top right: Courtesy of Newport Beach Centennial collection Bottom left: Courtesy of Newport Harbor Nautical Museum Bottom right: Courtesy of Sherman Library/Newport Beach Historical Society PAGE 81: Leonard Ortiz, Orange County Register PAGE 82: Top left: Andy Templeton, for the Orange County Register Top right: Janine Swiatkowski, Orange County Register Bottom left: Mark Avery, Orange County Register Bottom right: Steve K. Zylius, Orange County Register PAGE 83: Top: Courtesy Newport Harbor Nautical Museum Bottom: Ryan Hodgson-Rigsbee, Orange County Register PAGE 84: Top left: Rose Palmisano, Orange County Register Top right: Mindy Schauer, Orange County Register Bottom: Mindy Schauer, Orange County Register PAGE 85: Top left: Leonard Ortiz, Orange County Register Top right: Steve K. Zylius, Orange County Register Bottom left: Mark Rightmire, Orange County Register Bottom right: Steve K. Zylius, Orange County Register PAGE 86: Leonard Ortiz, Orange County Register PAGE 87: Top: Mindy Schauer, Orange County Register Bottom left: Michael Kitada, Orange County Register Bottom right: Jay Fraley PAGE 88: Courtesy of Newport Beach Fire Department PAGE 89: Top: Courtesy of Newport Beach Police Department Bottom: Courtesy of City of Newport Beach PAGE 90: Top left: Courtesy of Newport Beach Fire Department Top right: Courtesy of City of Newport Beach Bottom photo: Ryan Hodgson-Rigsbee, Orange County Register PAGE 91: Top right: Paul E. Rodriguez, Orange County Register Bottom left: Eugene Garcia, Orange County Register Bottom right: H. Lorren Au Jr., Orange County Register PAGE 92: Top: Ryan Hodgson-Rigsbee, Orange County Register Left: Ryan Hodgson-Rigsbee, Orange County Register Center right: Christopher Trela Bottom right: Christopher Trela PAGE 93: Top left: Courtesy of City of Newport Beach Top center: Courtesy of City of Newport Beach Top right: Courtesy of City of Newport Beach Bottom: Courtesy of City of Newport Beach PAGE 94: Top: Courtesy of Newport Harbor Nautical Museum Bottom: Ryan Hodgson-Rigsbee, Orange County Register PAGE 95: Top: Courtesy of City of Newport Beach Bottom: Andy Templeton BACK COVER: Steve K. Zylius, Orange County Register