Scratch Magazine August 2022 by scratchmagazine

AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT Distributed exclusively in the UK and Ireland with Love and Respect

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Nineteen years of... ®

Issue 232 Managing editor Helena Biggs helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk Publisher Scott Derbyshire scott.derbyshire@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writers Chloe Randall chloe.randall@scratchmagazine.co.uk Rebecca Hitchon rebecca.hitchon@scratchmagazine.co.uk Callie Iley callie.iley@scratchmagazine.co.uk Art editor Jessica Wilkie jess.wilkie@scratchmagazine.co.uk Group sales manager Ian Archbold ian.archbold@scratchmagazine.co.uk Accounts Lisa Ebbens lisa.ebbens@scratchmagazine.co.uk Co-founder Alex Fox Editorial/Advertising office 1 The Courtyard, Market Square, Westerham, Kent TN16 1AZ

T: +44 (0) 1959 547 000 ISSN 2635-0327

living costs heatwaves, rising he UK is battling impact ich wh of l ptions – al and travel disru e brac the . While many em your working life ucts and voc on nail prod heat, it wreaks ha at work th s ch te rtable for can be uncomfo that may , ns bi ca en rd such as ga ile high in small places, Wh g. nin d with air conditio hurt to n’t not be equippe ca it , UK e e irregular in th ar s re tu ra ents pe cli m ur te u and yo tions to keep yo prepare some op re. plo to page 26 to ex cool; simply turn ide to navig ating ared a handy gu sh s ha BF NH employee the , Also in this issue age unexpected ing how to man lud siness costs inc bu , ur ns yo tio th travel disrup ys to reduce bo wa ed lat co o als absences. We’ve ge 68. tal impact on pa and environmen d to support you an practical advice th wi ue iss ds s ar thi ed h Stars Aw While we’ve pack r amazing Scratc also celebrate ou rs Party in London Sta h tc ra Sc your business, we re unveiled at the we o wh , and skilled 22 e 20 at winners of ed passion process has allow tire the drive and en e ud Th pla ly. Ju ap I on 24 recognised, and be to s am Awards and te d last six months. individuals an en shown over the be s job expertly ha a t e at tha tul ion ra dedicat not just to cong – nt rta po im wait to so e skills, and I can’t competitions ar ds and improve ar nd sta ise ra s. nner done, but to r finalists and wi ng the work of ou continue followi mmer to transition from su spirit alive as we d an n our way ow on thr ssi e pa ar s t Let’s keep thi challenges tha the all e at vig na rk to autumn, and wo ideration. ns co ful re ca th wi Until next month,

Contributors Caroline Rainsford, Sadie Jordan, Donna Clayton, NHBF, Annabel Maginnis, Green Salon Collective, Meet The Fivers

Do you need to renew or update your Scratch subscription? Call +44 (0) 1580 883 844

Subscriptions Curwood CMS Ltd T: 01580 883844 Printer The Magazine Printing Company Mailing House Mailing & Fulfilment MK Ltd

Helena Biggs Managing editor +44(0)1959 547 000 helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk

COVER CREDITS Photographer: Gražina Lomovskaja Images courtesy of Entity Beauty Shades shown are Why Not?, Carefree, I Decide My Vibe, Days Like This, I’ll Take It and Is This For Me? from the It’s My Time summer 2022 collection. Available via www.thecreativebeautygroup.co.uk

/grazina.lo

@grazina.life

Make-up artist: Diana Rakickaja /DianaRakickajaMakeUpArtist

@bantikas

Model & nail stylist: Laura Kaminskaitė Nagų Priauginimas Kaune Laura

www.scratchmagazine.co.uk www.olympiabeauty.co.uk www.nailympia.com The publisher of Scratch magazine has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the information detailed in Scratch is correct at the time of going to print, and while every care is taken to avoid inaccuracies, the publisher does not accept responsibility for any errors or omissions from any information within this or previous editions. © 2022 SEED PUBLISHING LTD

@laura_nailpro Coach: Ilona Vas /IlonaVasNailDesigner

Follow Scratch and Nailympia:

@ilonavas

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Contents AUGUST 2022

FEATURES 18 The Butterfly Effect

The talented tech behind this month’s enchanting front cover shares her colourful career journey & photo shoot story

26 Keep It Cool

Feeling hot? Discover six ways to regulate temperature & keep you & your clients cool during warm spells

34 Scratch Stars Awards 2022: Meet The Winners

Check out the 18 nail pros, teams & businesses who have scooped Scratch Star titles in the only awards for the UK nail industry

46 The Making Of Mii

Scratch chats to industry icon & Mii Cosmetics founder, Susan Gerrard, as Mii’s mani/pedi line celebrates its first birthday

50 15 Builder Gels To Shape, Support & Enhance Your Nail Service

A spotlight on brush-on builder gel products from brands across the nail sector & ways to ensure a stellar finish

56 The Naked Truth

From peeling to ridged & brittle; nail specialists share ways to care for a variety of natural nail conditions

68 Cut Costs & Conserve

Discover ways to ease your business expenses & reduce your impact on the environment

80 The Perfect Fit

Refine your knowledge of form & tip fitting to ensure longlasting, comfortable enhancement services

86 How To… Recycle Metals From Your Nail Business

Embrace a more sustainable way of working by reading up on an effective way to recycle nail foil

88 Shine With Studex

Make your profit margins sparkle by exploring the benefits of adding piercing to your service menu

REGULARS

10 20 22 30 42 44 64 72 74 76 78 84 90 92 96 98

Nail Nation The Scratch Scoop The Hot List Strike A Pose The Cosmetic Climate Calendar Girl Style With Sadie Readers Gallery The Force Of The Feds Through The Keyhole Getting Down To Business Just Add Glitter Brand Watch Tech Talk Nail Clippings Fingernails In Focus

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Nail NATION

business

news & views

Charity Supporter Campaign encourages donations for hair & beauty pros in need

Interactive map launches to support recycling of beauty products The British Beauty Council (BBCo) is helping consumers to navigate beauty recycling with the launch of an interactive map. With the Council’s Courage to Change Report identifying that 56% of Brits do not recycle bathroom waste such as shampoo, conditioner and shower gel bottles because they find it inconvenient to do so, it is hoped that the map will encourage greater recycling of beauty empties. While household recycling rules and regulations vary from borough to borough, users can simply input their location into the BBCo’s map and they will be shown their closest beauty recycling points. These include drop-off points for UK retailers such as Holland & Barrett, Estée Lauder Companies, The Body Shop, Superdrug and L’Occitane. The British Beauty Council also welcomes additional UK beauty businesses, including those that offer recycling-by-post options, to get involved with the map by emailing sbc@britishbeautycouncil.com. www.britishbeautycouncil.com/recycling-points

The Hair & Beauty Charity has launched the Charity Supporter Campaign, whereby professionals, brands and organisations in the industry are encouraged to donate £20 a month to help those in need. Since 2019, the charity has seen a huge increase in applications for help. The cost of living crisis and a rise in domestic violence mean that more people need the help of the charity than ever before. “In 2019, the main reason that people applied for help was because they were unable to work due to illness,” comments Jayne Lewis-Orr, president of the Hair & Beauty Charity. “In 2022, this is still a major factor, but we are also seeing an influx of people struggling with everyday living costs and the ongoing impact of the pandemic. “We have seen a huge increase in those in the 31 to 40 year-old age bracket who need our help, and the rise in mental health-related illness is staggering.” Monthly donations will be used to provide school uniforms for children in financially struggling families, as well as cots, beds and bedding, carpets, fridges, freezers and washing machines for many more families. Supporters will each receive a welcome pack. Visit www.hairandbeautycharity.org/support to donate.

SIMPLY BUSINESS UNVEILS £25K GRANT FOR SMALL BUSINESSES Small business insurance provider, Simply Business, has announced its third iteration of the Business Boost Grant of £25,000, offering small UK businesses financial support to continue their post-Covid recovery and navigate the current economic climate. UK CEO of Simply Business, Alan Thomas, comments: “Small businesses are built on big dreams, and we know that finance plays a huge part in starting or growing a successful small firm. “It’s never been more important to support the self-employed, with the impact of the pandemic and soaring costs making it a difficult environment for new and existing owners. We want to make a genuine, transformational impact to one owner’s life. From our research, we know £25,000 does just that – the average cost for startups in year one alone stands at £22,756.” Boasting an expert judging panel, the final winner will be decided after entries close on 17 August 2022, and announced on 14 October 2022. Last year’s panel included British businessman, Piers Linney, and Carina Lepore, winner of The Apprentice. www.simplybusiness.co.uk/business-boost

10 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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business

Nail NATION Anti-domestic violence salon training programme marks first anniversary Shear Haven anti-domestic violence salon training has been available in the UK and Ireland for one year, courtesy of ambassadors Liz McKeon, salon business expert, and Mark Smith, international wellness journalist and author. The training has been accessed by professionals over 50,000 times in over 105 countries, and 5,517 people have accessed the Shear Haven education programme in the UK and Ireland. The programme equips hair and beauty professionals with the knowledge and resources to recognise Liz McKeon the signs of domestic violence, successfully navigate conversations with clients who may be in danger, and pass along tools that can help them get to safety. The Shear Haven training consists of a 20-minute online session followed by a short quiz. On completion, each participant receives a personalised certificate of achievement. Liz McKeon comments: “My long-term vision is to educate and empower salon professionals to help vulnerable clients and staff, provide a safe environment for victims and hopefully save lives, while recognising the role our amazing industry can play in highlighting the severity of domestic violence in our communities.” To learn more about the training, visit www.lizmckeon.com

Hair & beauty businesses could save over £35k a year with artificial intelligence A report commissioned by Yell has revealed how the hair and beauty industry could benefit from adopting artificial intelligence (AI), with financial rewards including saving over £35,000 annually. Surveys of 1,008 UK business leaders and 2,003 UK consumers were taken to find the data, which revealed that the hair and beauty industry ranks as the top fifth sector that stands to save the most money by utilising AI. The report attributes this to the time-saving benefits of automated booking systems, financial reports and chatbots, which would save businesses an average of 40 hours per week or 2,075 hours per year. The report finds that 49% of business owners in the hair and beauty sector feel ‘confident’ to use AI in their business, placing the sector among the top five for this in the UK. Claire Miles, chief executive officer at Yell, comments: “It seems we are on the verge of a revolution with AI, with the time-saving and money-making capabilities of the technology being a game-changer. The responsibility is now on business leaders of the world to ensure that any form of artificial intelligence is implemented properly, with the right security measures to alleviate trust and privacy concerns, as well as using it effectively and sensitively to create more specialised jobs.’’

BABTAC REPORT INDICATES POTENTIAL FOR NATIONWIDE BEAUTY BOOM

The British Association of Beauty Therapy & Cosmetology (BABTAC) has released a report exploring the pandemic’s lasting impact on beauty services. It finds that 7,083 hair and beauty businesses launched in 2020, with rises in bookings noted as public support for the beauty sector improved. The pandemic also brought about more digital innovation, with salons hosting virtual consultations and live masterclasses. However, the report highlights the long-term, negative impacts of the pandemic, which include a loss of earnings, rising costs, job losses and a reduction in apprenticeships. Competition with DIY treatments has also affected the beauty industry. CEO and chair of BABTAC, Lesley Blair MBE, comments: “The beauty sector is only just getting back on its feet, and we cannot ignore the impact the rising cost of living is about to have. Despite this, we’re seeing rising demand, an increase in beauty start-ups and unprecedented innovation. Businesses that can successfully capitalise on these opportunities are set for a booming period ahead.” Lesley Blair MBE www.babtac.com

NAIL & BEAUTY BITES Gerrard International, distributor of Mii, Jessica Cosmetics and BeautyLab, celebrated Global Wellness Day 2022 with an hour-long staff wellness walk. The company’s marketing director, Paul Gerrard, is a UK ambassador for Global Wellness Day and brought his two-year old fox red Labrador, Reggie, along for the walk, much to the delight of his employees. 12 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Skincare brand, Nimue, has launched a Purifying Range to provide clients with relief from problematic skin conditions, such as breakouts, oiliness, pustules and pimples. The four products in the range; Purifier Day, Purifier Night, Purifying Mask and Purifying Serum, work together to address skin concerns below the surface. Available via www.sweetsquared.com

The Hair & Beauty Charity has launched its annual raffle to raise funds for its hair, beauty and barbering beneficiaries. The proceeds from each £1 ticket will go towards industry individuals and their families who are facing difficult times. Prizes include £1,000 cash, gift vouchers up to £500, a spa day and more. www.hairandbeautycharity.org/raffle

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MIDNIGHT MANTRA

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Nail NATION FURNITURE COMPANY EXPANDS OFFERINGS FOR NAIL SALONS The manufacturer of Glitterbels nail desks and chairs has expanded and launched its own website, Bespoke Salon Furniture. The UK-based company creates furniture for nail salons, hair salons and barbershops, from reception units to pedicure stools and nail desks. As all items are handmade to order, they can be customised to suit the needs of the salon environment, with a choice of five colours, six woods and three ‘accessory’ finishes; gold, silver and rose gold. www.bespokesalonfurniture.co.uk

Sir Andy Murray serves up Wimbledon nail styles with nail pro, Michelle Humphrey Session nail artist, Michelle Humphrey, collaborated with two-time Wimbledon champion, Sir Andy Murray OBE, on a project with American Express in his role as its tennis ambassador. In the unusual partnership, Sir Andy Murray was invited to design a series of limited edition nail art to illustrate memorable and special moments at Wimbledon. As part of the American Express ‘fan experience’, open to AMEX card holders attending the tennis championships 27 June to 11 July, four fashion-forward nail styles were offered as part of the manicure menu in the American Express on-site nail bar. The art on offer depicted strawberries and cream and a tennis ball and net, in addition to the classic Wimbledon purple and green. Follow Michelle Humphrey on Instagram: @nailsbymh

Lecenté introduces Creator Club Nail brand, Lecenté, has replaced its Lecenté ambassador scheme with the Lecenté Creator Club. A spokesperson for the brand comments: “Creators are individuals who have a passion for Lecenté, are super creative, love our Create range and are excited to support the nail industry and Lecenté community with inspiration, ideas and advice. “The Lecenté Creator Club has been designed to be a fun and varied way to help our Club members with content ideas, inspire them, keep them informed of Lecenté developments and reward them.” Creators will complete missions that can result in rewards. To be considered for the Lecenté Creator Club, visit www.lecente.com/become-a-lecente-creator

NAIL & BEAUTY BITES Sweet Squared has introduced Mystery Boxes, featuring :YOURS, CND™ and Lecenté products worth over £100, for just £29.95. Available in three variations, each box includes CND™ Shellac, glitter, top coats and stamping products alongside a postcard and QR code linking to nail art tutorials by CND™ educator, Fee Wallace. Available via www.sweetsquared.com 14 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Eve Taylor has revamped its website, adding a number of features to support its growing community of professional therapists. Standout features include a variety of learning resources and a library of marketing tools. www.eve-taylor.com

The Cavendish Clinic has collaborated with John Lewis & Partners to provide skincare, facials and advanced aesthetic treatments within selected John Lewis stores nationwide. Sites include Cambridge, Edinburgh and Milton Keynes.

Glitterbels has unveiled a pink branded apron, suitable for all sizes. Classic and stylish in design, it features large pockets and the Glitterbels logo. Available for £30 via www.glitterbels.com

DATES FOR THE DIARY

TGB makes a splash with Summer Edit The GelBottle Inc has handpicked nine bold shades inspired by seasonal trends to create a summer nail colour edit. The hues include striking lilac Flax, cool blue Tiffany, orchid purple Crocus and Matteverse, a neonflecked matte top coat to add an edgy finish to summer nail looks. The non-yellowing and highly pigmented shades are perfect for poolside looks and offer up to four weeks’ wear. One bottle can achieve up to 110 full nail sets and the formula offers speedy soak-off removal. The Summer Edit is available via www.thegelbottle.com

artist in WANTED: UK nail

Don’t miss out on the phy, opportunity to win a tro ze and coverage in pri h cas T SHOO RY Scratch – as entry to T N E OUT LINE Scratch’s annual DEAD photographic nail ses 31 Scratch Shoot Out, clo competition, The Great desk l nai the ind nce to step out from beh a es bin August. This is your cha com t tha ge ima create a stunning and test your ability to ign. des l nai g kin stri a and skills creative concept, camera ine.co.uk/shootout www.scratchmagaz

GU 31 AU

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Are you a talented nail artist who wants to create globally recognised content? Manucurist Paris is seeking an in-house specialist to create avant-garde designs using its Green Flash brand. The chosen artist will be tasked with delivering exciting creations on natural nails using Manucurist’s curated, fashion-forward shades. Travel and event opportunities are available for the right candidate. A spokesperson for Manucurist comments: “Heritage is in our DNA. Manucurist founder, Gaelle Lebrat Personaz, acquired a family business and developed it into a nail brand that is now sold in over 30 countries. “We want to learn about your heritage and how you showcase this through your nail work.” Apply via www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/competitions. Shortlisted artists will be supplied with a range of Green Flash products to create designs for the next stage of the competition. The winner will receive a creative services contract and a full years’ supply of Green Flash nail polish and Green classic polish.

Harry Styles drops Pleasing Hot Holiday nail polish collection Harry Styles has unveiled the Pleasing Hot Holiday collection of nail lacquers; ideal for the summer season. The four vegan-friendly shades follow on from the launch of the Perfect Pearl and Shroom Bloom collections and are inspired by sunshine and beaches. The shades available are: Beach Ball – ocean blue Nonna’s Sorbet – vibrant yellow Harry’s Chair – seaweed green Wet Bottoms – a glossy top coat The brand is also releasing two skincare products to complement the Hot Holiday hues; a Pleasing Spritz packed with niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, and The Everybody Oil, which soothes and hydrates the skin with ingredients including chamomile, jojoba and evening primrose. It has a bergamot and bitter orange scent, inspired by summer in Italy. A post on the Pleasing Instagram page reads: “Hot Holiday and its enlivening products encourage you to put aside the dreary dismay of the everyday and transport you to a vacation state of mind.” The Hot Holiday collection is available to purchase via www.pleasing.com.

In line with the British Beauty Council’s aim to ISH T spotlight the value I R B EEK of beauty at a W Y T BEAU government level, ual British ann its celebrating the ‘power will this year focus on nt eve ek We Beauty rities and cha , , retailers, salons of beauty’, with brands engaging initiatives. ate cre to d age encour e-commerce platforms , visit For more information y-week ncil.com/british-beaut cou uty bea ish rit www.b ‘ The Aston Hall Hotel 18 ER in Sheffield will host EMB T P E S Nailtopia, an intimate A I event for the nail trade. P O NAILT The third edition of the iety of brands that will event will feature a var and provide networking showcase nail offerings, pros. opportunities for nai‘l ow.co.uk www.nailtopiatradesh

5-11 BER EM SEPT

gest trade Head to autumn’s big ia Beauty, mp Oly nt; eve beauty in new ers London, and imm e MP cation, NAILY ON & edu gs, erin off t produc LOND MPIA and ties uni network opport OLY UTY at’s COMPETITION Wh re. A mo ch E so mu B LONDON 2022 p more, sign up to flagshi takes mpia London, which nail competition, Naily ia mp ily h a medal. Na wit ay aw lk wa ld cou see if you place at the event, and lympiabeauty.co.uk, mpia Beauty, visit www.o To register to attend Oly ailympia.com w.n ww via n o mpia Lond and sign up for Naily

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Townhouse tops awards leaderboard & opens fourth location Two-time Scratch Star Award-winning salon brand, Townhouse, has opened a fourth salon, located on Kensington High Street, London. The space includes state-of-the-art technology with self-book kiosks and digital colour libraries on iPads for a modern pamper experience, amongst its signature stylish décor. A variety of manicures and pedicures with a polish or gel polish finish are available, as well as a seasonal nail art menu. “Townhouse Kensington takes everything Townhouse and turns the dial up to 10,” comments Townhouse founder, Juanita Huber-Millet. “The design of our Kensington space was curated to evoke vacation lounge bar vibes, with a stylish and buzzy ambience. “My goal was to provide customers with a space away from the hustle and bustle of their daily lives; an oasis of beauty, style and creativity. The chosen Juanita Huber-Millet elements perfectly complement one another and the ambience has been created to inspire our customers and team members. There are functionally designed treatment areas to suit our customer’s needs – whether it be a quick lunch-break polish change, relaxing weekend me-time or an evening treat over bubbles with friends. I have absolutely loved designing this space and feel it’s one of our best yet!” www.mytownhouse.co.uk

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 15

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COVERSTORY

The

Butterfly effect

Get to know the talented tech behind the enchanting nail style on this month’s cover & learn how she transformed her career to become a successful nail pro REBECCA HITCHON REPORTS

he power of a well put-together editorial image is that it draws you into another world and serves up senses of awe and escapism. This month’s cover is a clear example of that, as while it was shot on a frosty February day, the result is a bright, summery image perfect for Scratch’s August issue.

. Laura Kaminskaite, the Lithuania-based nail pro behind the cover’s nail look – who also modelled for the image, gives us an insight into the day of the shoot, revealing that it was impossible to dress appropriately for the winter weather while wearing the extreme nails. “However, as I ran to the make-up artist then the shoot location, . Laura Kaminskaite . I didn’t think about the cold; I was focused only on the result: a light and fresh but simultaneously exclusive, radiant look that would deliver the ‘wow’ factor,” she explains. The award-winning nail stylist’s determination to always create the best nail artistry possible is apparent as she chats to Scratch. Her love for the sector blossomed when she was just 16 years old and she began to create nail art for friends. But it was when studying for a degree in Law & Sports Management that Laura realised she was destined for a career in the nail industry. “There is not a single day that I don’t want to go to work,” she reveals about being a resident tech in a beauty salon in

Kaunas, Lithuania’s second largest city. “I enjoy that the nail sector constantly encourages you to push yourself; to learn, change, remain relevant and provide a great service. You must seize education opportunities, and this is why I want to pursue a nail educator role one day.” The growth that Laura sees as a vital part of being a nail tech closely links with the 3D butterflies adorning this issue’s cover nails, due to the transformative beginnings of the butterfly. But the nail pro explains that it was her goal to achieve an equally colourful and soft nail look reminiscent of summer that led her to the design idea. The nail style features a variety of mediums, from coloured pigments for the butterflies to gel polishes and paints, glitter and Swarovski crystals. Laura brought the nails to life over three days and her coach, Ilona Vas, helped to refine her vision and design, as well as assemble the photo shoot team. However from the beginning, the nail stylist had her heart set on taking on the role of the model. “I couldn’t imagine anyone else representing my work and demonstrating the unique style of the nails,” she tells Scratch. “It made the shoot a more complex process

“I enjoy that the nail sector constantly encourages you to push yourself; to learn, change, remain relevant and provide a great service.” 18 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

COVERSTORY

“This cover seems like something I could have only dreamt of in the past, but hard work and effort have paid off.” and required me to work twice as hard, but it was worthwhile because the images match my vision perfectly.” And what Laura had envisioned was imagery that would be worthy of being seen by many. “My aim was for this work to be recognised, and I am so grateful this has happened with a Scratch cover and feature,” she gushes. “I will dedicate the cover to my daughter as I want to show her that commitment to your work can move mountains and that you must pursue your dreams. This seems like something I could have only dreamt of in the past, but hard work and effort have paid off.”

COVER CREDITS Photographer: Gražina Lomovskaja /grazina.lo @grazina.life Make-up artist: Diana Rakickaja /DianaRakickajaMakeUpArtist @bantikas . Model & nail stylist: Laura Kaminskaite /Nagų Priauginimas Kaune Laura @laura_nailpro Coach: Ilona Vas /IlonaVasNailDesigner

@ilonavas

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 19

p o o c s

SCRATCHSOCIAL

THE SCRATCH

Top (L-R): Helena Biggs, Jess Wilkie Bottom (L-R): Chloe Randall, Rebecca Hitchon, Callie Iley

The Scratch team offers an insight into its antics & unveils events & products from the nail & beauty realms

out Out and ab

In the

MAIL... Check out the nail & beauty goodies in Scratch’s postbag this month…

The team at BeautyPro gifted us products for multiple skincare needs; the +maskology soothing and antiageing Niacinamide Mask, the deep pore-cleansing Activated Charcoal Detoxifying Sheet Mask, and hydrating +serumology Hyaluronic Acid. Add onto a treatment or retail the items, which are available via www.beautypro.com. We’ve upped our self-care game since NAF! PRO sent us its range of SKNSYSTM products, which include Scrub Pro, Mask Pro topical mask, Moisture Pro and Oil Pro cuticle oil. All products feature a sea salt, sage and citrus scent and are vegan and cruelty-free. Available via www.nafprofessionals.com.

What we’re wearing... On Helena’s trip to Townhouse, Kensington, she chose a delicate lilac nail shade with a smattering of holographic Lecenté sparkle courtesy of nail stylist, Ioanna.

Chloe called up award-winning session stylist, Nickie Rhodes-Hill, for a delightful daisy nail design, created with CND Shellac™ shades. Rebecca received a signature nail art mani by Kara, head of nails at Bebop, who dotted white daisies over a pink and orange ombré French style using The GelBottle Inc shades. Art editor, Jess, chose a marble nail design courtesy of Hazel Martin of @nailcreationsbyhazel, created using Blooming Gel. 20 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Managing edito r, Helena, and ne ws and features Chloe, headed writer, to the LCBT Star Awards in Lond celebrate the su on to ccess of The Lo ndon College of Therapy’s beau Beau ty ty students. Scra tch sponsored the Combined Ther L2/L3 apist of the Year award, which wa by Alison Brown s won . Her prize was a trophy and good packed with ple y bag nty of beauty de lights! Other atte included Ian Ar ndees chbold, directo r of Olympia Be Caroline Neville, auty, and chairwoman of CEW UK.

g nail salon Award-winnin use, ho wn brand, To th salon ur fo its ed open ly at Ju 1 premises on gh Hi on gt in 146 Kens stopped na le He . et Stre lish mani by for a gel po admiring and cocktail, interior the gorgeous her nail g sin after choo ad at iP an on n desig The Nail Bar. News and feature s writer, Rebecca, hotfooted to Ho lloway, London, to visit Be bop, a hair salon that has recently added nails to its offering. Sh e met head of nails, Ka ra Elliott, and saw ho w the salon is creating a buzz with its fun atmos phere and nail art.

BEFORE

AFTER

Dual Formula

LASH & BROW LIFT SYSTEM

Enhance and emphasise the eyes with Salon System’s dual formula Lash & Brow lift system. New improved formula. Now available in a useful Salon Trio Pack. Available at your nearest wholesaler.

#SalonSystemBrowLift

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NEWPRODUCTS

HD Build It! Pro Hard Gel £17.99 + VAT www.hazeldixonnails.com Available in four cover pink shades, Build It! Pro Hard Gel comes in two viscosities, Shape It! and Sculpt It!. The former is ideal for advanced techs who need to infill and rebalance, while the thick viscosity of Sculpt It! is ideal for beginner gel techs who wish to sculpt length and shape.

Glitterbels UV/LED Sunbel 4S Lamp £119.99 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com Created for use with Glitterbels gels and gel polishes, this lamp has a lifespan of 50,000 hours and detachable bottom tray for pedicure use. It has a low temperature mode and 10, 30, 60 and 99 second cure times.

List THE HOT

Australian Bodycare Anti-Itch Spray £5.83 + VAT/RRP £9.99 trade.australianbodycare.com This soothing, travel-size solution offers immediate relief from itching and skin irritations such as stings and insect bites. Containing tea tree oil, the quick-absorbing spray is dermatologically tested and suitable for all skin types.

Scratch scours the industry for the latest nail & beauty products to captivate clients & lend a helping hand to your services Margaret Dabbs PURE Repairing Hand Cream £POA/RRP £18 www.margaretdabbs.co.uk This rich but non-greasy cream contains Pentavitin, which improves hydration levels, flakiness, skin discomfort, smoothness and appearance. The addition of vitamin F Forte helps protect and condition dry skin, and the cream features a delicate rose and lemon scent.

OPI GelColor Fall Wonders Collection £18.70 + VAT each www.trade.opiuk.com Ground your clients in the calming, down-to-earth palette of the OPI Fall Wonders Collection. Inspired by the healing powers of nature and the earth, the 12 shades are available in Nail Lacquer, Infinite Shine and GelColor and aim to balance and uplift clients.

22 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NEWPRODUCTS

Light Elegance P+ Summer by the Sea Colour Gel Polish Collection £13.95 + VAT each www.sweetsquared.com Bring the natural beauty of the beach to fingertips with this six-piece gel polish collection. Featuring a combination of neutral tones and brights, choose from the likes of cool blue Ocean Avenue and creamy red coral shade, Don’t Be Crabby. The shades are also available in Colour Gel.

NAF! PRO SKNSYSTM from £12 + VAT/RRP £15 www.nafprofessionals.com Launched by nail and cuticle oil experts, NAF! PRO, SKNSYSTEM is a range of multi-use, vegan-friendly skincare products in a sea salt, sage and citrus scent. Perfect for manis and pedis, products are Scrub Pro (£15 + VAT/RRP £20), Mask Pro (£13.50 + VAT/RRP £18), Moisture Pro (£13.50 + VAT/ RRP £18) and Oil Pro (£12 + VAT/RRP £15).

Entity Colour Couture It’s My Time Collection £10.95 + VAT each www.thecreativebeautygroup.co.uk / www.entitybeauty.co.uk This fun, summery gel polish collection from Entity encomasses crème, pearl and shimmer finishes, from the yellow crème Carefree to azure blue shimmer Days Like This. The six hues are also available in lacquer for seven-day wear.

Emoki Nails Hand Cream from £2.75 + VAT/RRP £3.99 each www.emoki.co.uk Emoki’s lightweight, non-greasy hand creams are available in eight fragrances, including Lola Cola, So Vanilla Cupcake and Just Peachy, to complement the brand’s existing range of cuticle oils. The ‘Pocket Pal’ sizes are ideal retail items, while the 250ml ‘Desk Jockey’ with pump is perfect for the nail desk and costs £8.50 + VAT.

Mii Bright Eyed Hydrogel Mask (60 patches) £12 + VAT/RRP £24 www.gerrardinternational.com Offer clients a hit of hydration to revive and revitalise delicate under-eye skin with these handy hydrogel masks. Promote as a treatment add-on while clients indulge in a brow, lash, hand or foot treatment, or retail for at-home use. The biodegradable masks contain caffeine to reduce puffiness and are great for pre-makeup prep.

CND Vinylux™ In Fall Bloom Collection £29.70 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com Elevate manis and pedis this autumn with these six seasonal shades, designed to bring energy, optimism and romance to nails. The transitional hues are natureinspired and include bold magenta Orchid Canopy and grey-taupe Skipping Stones. The collection is also available in Shellac™ for £13.95 + VAT per shade.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 23

www.glitterbels.com

@glitterbels

@GlitterbelsbyAnnabel

Colours designed for every occasion

BUSINESSMATTERS

Keep it

cool2 The topic of weather is a regular go-to with clients, and recent heatwaves have been causing some stress. Windows for natural light mean plenty of sun can shine through to the nail space and it can become uncomfortably hot. Part of your role is to make your client feel comfortable and relaxed, so changes may need to be made during the summer months to support their nail or beauty experience. And let’s not forget about you and your team. It is the responsibility of employers to ensure the safety of their workforce, and with no existing laws or regulations outlining a specific temperature at which it becomes unsafe to work, salon owners must ensure a safe working environment during the summer months.

Are heatwaves & hot temperatures causing angst in your nail space? CHLOE RANDALL explores ways to keep you & your clients comfortable & products in peak condition

Air conditioning

Getting an air conditioning system might seem like a big investment for just a couple of months per year, particularly when hot weather in the UK is never guaranteed. However, a portable air conditioning unit is a cost-effective method that will stop your products from becoming difficult to work with and will keep you and your clients cool and comfortable.

Scratch explores six things to consider during warm spells…

Water

Hydration is key to staying well and productive – particularly when temperatures rise. It’s also important to ensure your clients are hydrated to avoid feelings of lightheadedness. Try chilled water infused with cucumber or mixed fruit, which is easy to make and cheap to offer. Encourage your team to keep a water bottle at their station for regular sips throughout the day. As a luxury extra for your clients, consider offering a hydrating face mist spray for their use while at the nail desk. This will keep them cool and relaxed throughout their treatment and could also be a good retail opportunity.

Core Floor Standing Bottled Water Cooler £133.33 + VAT www.thewatercoolercompany.com

Masks Offering a sheet mask while your client indulges in a treatment is not only a great way to keep them cool, but is also an opportunity for extra income. During summer months, feet tend to get swollen in the heat so add a soak to your pedicure services, which helps reduce inflammation. You could also retail the soak to the client at the end of the treatment. CND™ Spa Mineral Bath (Feet) £29.95 + VAT/RRP £59.95 www.sweetsquared.com

26 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Polar Wind Style (exhaust tube portable air conditioner) £714 + VAT www.andrews-sykes.com

Double Cool (evaporative cooler) £549 + VAT www.andrews-sykes.com

Points to note about air conditioning: • Exhaust tube air conditioners are ideal for small retail environments such as beauty salons. Depending on the size and amount of people in the salon at one time, multiple units may be required to reach the desired temperature. • All portable air conditioners need to exhaust hot air outside. • When access to the outside isn’t possible, evaporative coolers are an ideal alternative. It is highly unlikely that they will bring down the ambient temperature of the entire salon, however they work well for spot comfort cooling. • Evaporative cooling units are filled with tap water which is then spread across an internal filter media. As air is blown across this wet media, the water evaporates, causing air to lose its heat and enabling temperature drops of more than 10°C to be achieved. Although the overall room temperature is not reduced, these units are very effective in providing cool air into a localised area. Keen to hire a portable air conditioning unit for a few months per year? Visit www.andrews-sykes.com

BUSINESSMATTERS

B035 Lilac Tunic £35.99 + VAT www.buttercupsuniforms.com

B036LS Plum Tunic £35.99 + VAT www.buttercupsuniforms.com

Staff uniform

Keeping you and your team as comfortable as possible is equally as important as taking care of your clients, particularly to prevent exhaustion or any other side effects of heat. In regard to staff uniform, consider linen options for a cool, comfortable fit. According to the experts at Temperature Master, linen keeps you cooler than cotton and you are less likely to sweat. The wide, lengthy fibres of linen allow air to pass through the fabric. Buttercups Uniforms has a linen range of beauty workwear, with items available in a variety of colour ways.

Product storage

You may have noticed a difference in your L&P and gel workability during periods of warm weather. This is because temperature and additional UV exposure can greatly affect the polymerisation process of L&P and the viscosity and premature curing of gel. This can particularly be a problem for mobile techs, who move from one temperature to another, or those working in buildings such as conservatories that are prone to extreme temperatures. Award-winning nail stylist and brand founder, Katie Barnes, shares how nail systems are impacted by heat…

L&P

The optimum working temperature for products is 20-22oC. It can be useful to have a thermostat in your working environment to monitor this. In warmer than usual temperatures, techs may find it advantageous to switch to a slower-setting L&P system over a fast-setting system. In a slow-set system, slower reacting monomers are used, giving techs more time to work. The higher the temperature of the liquid, the faster the reaction and therefore the quicker the set time, making L&P difficult to work with – which can be responsible for service breakdown. When your working environment or client’s body temperature are too warm, you can take steps to control the temperature by using a cool pack to place your monomer on, but do not lower the product temperature too much or too quickly. When your client’s hands are too warm or clammy, it can cause the product to set quicker and trigger problems with form adhesion. Encourage your client to wash their hands in cool water or give them a cold towelette prior to the service. To prevent problems with form adhesion, wipe over the fingers with acetone prior to application.

Blinds

Many salons have a glass window front and while this is great for passers-by, it may create an uncomfortable glare and warm temperature inside the building during hot weather spells. Blinds are effective at reducing summer heat gain and glare, while still enabling a fair amount of natural light to shine through to aid your work.

Gel

Hot and cold temperatures also have a critical impact on UV gel – not on the product’s effectiveness, but on the ease of use during the application. Every degree, whether lower or higher, will change the viscosity of gel. If it is too hot, the gel becomes very fluid and can be problematic to work with, being likely to run into the surrounding skin and cause potential skin irritation and service breakdown. The higher the temperature, the thicker the viscosity needs to be. When there is additional UV exposure in our working environment, techs must be aware of premature curing of products. It is recommended to work away from direct UV light exposure, such as in a conservatory or near to a window. Not only can this start premature curing of the product on the nail from the UV exposure, but it can cure the products in their containers and on brushes. Keep brushes and open containers away from UV and LED lamps and UV exposure to prevent any gel products curing on these as they will become unusable.

Nail polish

The pigments in polish can fade when exposed to sunlight, and bottles can explode in temperatures above 48°C. If nail polish has been sitting around a while or stored incorrectly, it will begin to thicken and become hard to use due to its contact with the air.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 27

FOLLOW SUIT

TARTAN THE INTERRUPTION

TAILORED FOR YOU

AVAILABLE AT

gsgroupuk.com Georgie Smedley Group Phone: 01708 465900 www.gsgroupuk.com | Email: info@gsgroupuk.com LONDON, HERTS & ESSEX 0800 014 8313 IRELAND 00353 1 4295122 SOUTH WEST UK 01300 348645

IT’S ALL ABOUT THE TWILL

WOOL YOU LOVE ME?

HM-14564

Style is always in season with the NEW Plaid Reputation Collection from Gelish® and Morgan Taylor®! Plaid Reputation is a retro revival that reimagines the fashionable colors and patterns from eras past.

TWEED ME!

MODEL IS WEARING: FOLLOW SUIT & TWEED ME

NAILINSPO

STRIKEAPOSE

Latvian nail pro, ILONA KRICKA, shares nail styling snaps from a Beauty & The Beast themed photo shoot & reveals her creative process

MEET THE IST NAIL STYL

THE TECH: Ilona Kricka AGE: 41 LOCATION: Leicester, UK YEARS IN NAILS: 14 years /ikricka @ilonas_beauty

D “

oing nails is more than just a job – it’s a lifestyle,” says Ilona Kricka, the Latvianborn nail stylist who has been residing in Leicester for 13 years. The talented and passionate pro has completed over 50 nail courses; growing from nail technician to educator and international judge. “I always want to learn new skills to further my career, which is why I am determined to advance my education as much as I can. In the space of a year, I have become a champion in international competitions, and have more than 70 wins under my belt. Alongside my team, I participate in international championships. Our goal is to make the world beautiful.” And beauty is apparent in this series of Beauty and the Beast-inspired images,

which also focus on Ilona’s love for roses. “The world is full of different flowers, but the rose is considered the symbol of love,” she comments. “The rose mesmerises with its beauty and has ancient roots as a sign of romance and passion. It is a mark that every culture can resonate with.” Ilona was drawn to roses after sculpting a single ‘crystal rose’ on a nail for a competition, incorporating real flowers and leaves. “I immediately fell in love with it and decided that I wanted to create more rose-themed art. From there, I had a vision for this design across all 10 nails, and set out to portray my love for roses in my own style.” Creating the detailed design took hours of hard work over three months and plenty of product. “The nails and roses are created using hard gel,” Ilona reveals. “I used about 300g of gel for all the flowers and leaves, but am so pleased with the result.”

TECH TALE Ilona reveals the story behind her concept and nail creation… “Once upon a time, a merchant lived in a mansion with his 12 children; six sons and six daughters. All of his daughters were very beautiful, but the youngest was named ‘Little Beauty’, for she was the most radiant. She continued to be named ‘Beauty’ until she was a young adult. She was lovely, kind, well-read and pure of heart. “One day, the merchant heard that one of the trade ships he had sent had arrived back in port, having escaped the destruction of its companions. Before leaving, he asked his children if they wished for him to bring any gifts back for them. His eldest daughters asked for clothing, jewels and the finest dresses possible, as they thought his wealth had returned. Beauty asked for nothing but her father to be safe, but when he insisted on buying her a present, she was satisfied with the promise of a rose as none grew in their part of the country.” CREDITS Photographer: Sintija Solovjova Nail stylist: Ilona Kricka Model: Paula-Patrisija Kricka

THE PHOTO SHOOT Ilona and her creative team didn’t have to travel far to see her concept come to life. “My neighbours had the most beautiful roses growing in their garden, so we asked if we could shoot there, and they agreed,” she beams. “By the end of the shoot, all of the neighbours on my street had heard about it, and wanted to see the artwork I created.”

30 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NAILINSPO

Reflecting on the day of the shoot, Ilona shares that her daughter, PaulaPatrisija Kricka, acted as the model for the imagery. As a hairdresser with a passion for beauty, she did her own hair and make-up, and even came up with her own poses. “We all had to work together to create the photos,” Ilona comments. “My photographer, Sintija Solovjova, had to make sure the

lighting was perfect and I made sure that the tiny details of the photo were flawless; that the hair sat smoothly and all the nails were able to be seen.” With a strong belief in consistently growing, learning and pushing boundaries, Ilona explains: “Nothing is impossible, you just have to believe in yourself and everything will work out. Never give up!”

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 31

Introducing the

ALL NEW

VIP

PROGRAMME Want to be part of the Pure Nails Team and show off the nails YOU create? Our new Halo VIP scheme

helps us and YOU to widen our online and magazine presence and get more

people talking about Pure Nails and our Halo range of products - whilst

offering YOU the benefits!

I love being a Halo VIP as I get to represent the brand I use in my salon everyday. Me and my clients love it from the Acrylic to the Elite Hard Gel to the Gel Polish collection! Christina Elizabeth Birch Northampton

Halo VIP Benefits

Standard VIP

• • •

10% Off code for single use share 20% Off code for VIP multiple use 7 days pre-release access to new products Free new collections

Platinum VIP

Free colour pops Free posters Free products Free Halo jute bag + goodies

PLUS loads more benefits to be announced!

With a Plati NEW n Rewa um Syst rd em!

• • • • • • • •

When you’re accepted as a VIP, you’ll be right at the heart of the Halo business: posting on social media, testing and suggesting new colours, and even being featured in Scratch magazine!

And each month, we’ll pick a “VIP of the Month” who willl be awarded a prize and newsletter coverage. And if you go the extra mile as a Platinum VIP, you’ll unlock free products, goodies, and much more!

Apply today and become a Halo VIP!

Find out more and apply at:

www.purenails.co.uk/vip purenails Terms and conditions apply. Your application to join will need to be approved by Pure Nails staff. You will be required to complete certain minimum requirements to qualify for rewards and Platinum VIP status.

NAILCOMPETITION

The only awards for the UK nail industry

MEET THE WINNERS

2022

Discover who shone & scooped the top titles in the 10th Scratch Stars Awards – the only awards solely dedicated to recognising nail industry talent in the UK

HELENA BIGGS REPORTS Ten years ago, Scratch magazine launched the Scratch Stars Awards to recognise the incredible skill, business acumen and client care shown by members of the UK nail industry. Since the first awards ceremony at London’s iconic Café de Paris in 2012, we have crowned 181 champions, with 18 names being added to the roster for 2022.

The journey for this year's winners began in February, and each has been through a rigorous judging process to determine their eligibility for the top title in their category. Many attended a practical test and interview in London, others received a mystery shop, and the remainder had to submit further information such as a video, evidence of skills or testimonials. I applaud every single person and team that put themselves forward for a Scratch Star this year, and while there can only be one winner of each title, the scores were closer than ever – and the class of 2022 shines brightly. At the time of writing, we are getting set for the Scratch Stars Party, where the industry will come together to celebrate excellence and success. Let’s meet this year’s winners… 34 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NAILCOMPETITION

L&P TECH OF THE YEAR sponsored by Katie Barnes Tool Range

JADE BARBER

Kent

GEL TECH OF THE YEAR sponsored by Bio Sculpture Gel & Evo

CATRIONA LEITH

Cambridgeshire

NATURAL NAIL SPECIALIST OF THE YEAR sponsored by The Nail Lab UK

METTA FRANCIS

Surrey

POLISH & PAINT ARTIST OF THE YEAR sponsored by Brillbird UK

DANIELLE BRINDLEY

Staffordshire

>> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 35

NAILCOMPETITION

MIXED MEDIA ARTIST OF THE YEAR sponsored by Kirsty Meakin

KAYLEY CAIRNS

Essex

ONE STROKE ARTIST OF THE YEAR sponsored by HD Professional Nail Systems

CATRIONA LEITH

Cambridgeshire

GEL POLISH STYLIST OF THE YEAR sponsored by Salon System Gellux

JIAK HING

Greater Manchester

NAIL STYLIST OF THE YEAR sponsored by Glitterbels

KAYLEY CAIRNS

Essex

36 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NAILCOMPETITION

MOBILE NAILIST OF THE YEAR sponsored by LCN UK

CLARE WOODCOCK

Surrey

EDUCATOR OF THE YEAR sponsored by Sweet Squared

MICHELLE BROOKES

Yorkshire

SOCIAL MEDIA STAR OF THE YEAR sponsored by Glossify

KIRSTY MEAKIN

Staffordshire

NAIL TEAM OF THE YEAR sponsored by Salon Services

GLITTERBELS EDUCATORS

Nationwide

>> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 37

NAILCOMPETITION

HOME NAIL SALON OF THE YEAR sponsored by Pure Nails - Halo Gel Polish

BEAU'S BEAUTY BOX

Devon

NAIL & BEAUTY SALON OF THE YEAR sponsored by OPI UK

BEAUTY AT THE BAY

Essex

NAIL SALON OF THE YEAR sponsored by The GelBottle Inc

TOWNHOUSE

Knightsbridge

THE SHOOTING STAR AWARD presented by Scratch magazine

CLAWGASMIC NAIL NETWORK 38 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NAILCOMPETITION

THE NAIL SECTOR VISIONARY AWARD sponsored by The Federation of Nail Professionals

MILLIE KENDALL OBE

London

SERVICES TO THE NAIL INDUSTRY sponsored by Sweet Squared

HAZEL DIXON

Norfolk

Inside next issue... We reveal photos from the Scratch Stars Party, held in London on 24 July! www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/scratchstars With thanks to the sponsors of the 2022 event:

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 39

IS IT JUST US OR IS IT GETTING HOT IN HERE?

TGB’s Summer Edit is a collection of hand-picked trending summer colours from our incredible range. Our edit also includes Matteverse, a brand NEW neon-flecked matte topcoat that’ll add an unapologetic edge to any summer nail look.

BUY THE FULL SUMMER EDIT FOR 20% OFF RRP AND RECEIVE A FREE POOL-WORTHY GIFT* TOO.

*while stocks last.

THEGELBOTTLE.COM

@ THE_GELBOTTLE_INC

INDUSTRYINSIDER

Cosmetic THE

Climate

The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Association (CTPA) shares results of research into cosmetics & personal care products for everyday use BY CAROLINE RAINSFORD

Head of scientific & environmental services at The CTPA

LOOKING GOOD, FEELING GOOD: THE IMPORTANCE OF COSMETICS FOR SELF-ESTEEM

TPA has tracked self-esteem, and the factors that Confidence after Covid-19 influence it, for nearly two decades. Our most Our survey results show that Covid-19 has corroded our selfrecent study in February 2022, in partnership confidence. More than a third of UK adults say the pandemic has with research specialist, Opinium, uncovered negatively impacted their self-esteem. This figure rises to 45% more about how we really feel about among women. A third of ourselves and our cosmetics. Not only does this respondents (34%) felt research enable greater understanding of the Looking at the factors people cite as ‘very that having a rewarding job role our industry plays in today’s society, but important’ for building up their self-esteem and being financially successful provides clues as to why the pandemic has it also allows us to gain insight into what drives the customers who use our products had an impact. Over half of people agreed are key drivers for positive selfevery day. that feeling confident in their appearance esteem. However, many were furloughed or had to work differently and having a supportive family are important Estimating esteem – during the pandemic, which could factors for boosting self-esteem. Millions of us had to make changes to our self-care routines How is the nation feeling? help explain why Covid-19 has when salons and shops closed and experienced Disappointingly, our self-esteem is at a twonegatively impacted our self- prolonged periods of isolation from our personal decade low: one in five UK adults report having esteem as a nation. networks, both of which undoubtedly took their toll. low self-esteem today, compared to just 7% in 2004. At the same time, people reporting high self-esteem has Everyday essentials dropped 8% in the last decade, from Over the years, CTPA’s research has 37% to 29%. consistently shown that cosmetics and personal care products are essential to When it comes to giving our self-esteem the lives of the vast majority of us. This a much-needed boost, protecting our is no surprise to anyone working in the mental health is the priority. ‘Positive cosmetics industry, whether in a salon mental health’ plays a vital role for nine seeing first-hand how a fresh set of nails out of 10 people. can make a client’s week, or for a brand seeing the devoted customer followings In fact, ‘confidence in our that products can have. It’s difficult to Men report appearance’ (54%) is in line imagine any other form of consumer having higher selfwith ‘having a supportive product used so frequently and so esteem than women. family’ (53%) and ‘having diversely by every citizen. 37% of men reported a rewarding job’ (35%) high or very high selfas an important Therefore, our latest survey results are esteem, compared with factor in building up not surprising because they confirm only 21% of women. our self-esteem. how important cosmetics and personal 42 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

INDUSTRYINSIDER care products are to our daily lives – both our everyday hygiene essentials and other products and services that uplift our wellbeing.

Women seem to be more scent-conscious, with 71% of women stating that deodorant or antiperspirant is essential to their lives, but this value decreases to 46% of men!

Unsurprisingly, 84% of us say that using toiletries for our cleanliness and personal hygiene is important for our self-esteem, and the same proportion of us class cosmetics and toiletries as essential to our lives. This focus on personal hygiene is reflected in the top three products rated most important to peoples’ lives, which are deodorants (59%), oral care products (54%) and hair washing products (49%).

Going beyond personal hygiene, more than half of women (53%) agreed that a visit to a spa or hair or beauty salon is important for boosting their self-esteem. One in three men also recognise this for a visit to a spa, salon or barbers. Around 1% of men selected nail varnish as the one product they couldn’t live without, which highlights how our products apply to all members of society.

Happy place Our research was nationally representative, which means we can see some fascinating regional differences between self-esteem and how we use cosmetics. Scottish readers will be pleased to see Glasgow confirmed as the ‘happiest’ city, with 35% of respondents reporting ‘high’ or ‘very high’ self-esteem. In contrast, only 16% of residents in Brighton reported having high self-esteem, with none rating their self-esteem as ‘very high’. The north/south city divide continues with a third of citizens of Newcastle, Manchester and Birmingham all rating their self-esteem as ‘high’ or ‘very high’. Only 22% of Cardiff and 21% of Norwich residents feel the same way. The North East (35%) just beats London and the West Midlands (34%) to be crowned the region of the UK with the highest percentage of respondents reporting ‘high’ or ‘very high’ self-esteem. Sadly, only 20% of Wales reported ‘high’ or ‘very high’ self-esteem. Incidentally, Wales also had the lowest percentage of respondents saying that nail varnish is essential to their lives, at 4%. This is Respondents in contrast to 15% in Yorkshire and in Belfast (57%) Humberside. Could we hypothesise were the most likely to a link here between nail varnish agree that a visit to a hair and self-esteem?

salon, barber, beauty salon or spa is important to boost their self-esteem. In contrast, only 29% of Plymouth residents said this.

Despite only being 40 miles apart, residents of Manchester and Liverpool have quite different views on the importance of cosmetics and toiletries for building self-esteem. 60% of Manchester considers them to be important, falling to just 36% of those surveyed in Liverpool. Almost a quarter (24%) of people living in the West Midlands don’t consider any cosmetic or personal care products to be essential to their lives, whereas only 6% felt this way in London.

Selfie-esteem While much is made of the young generation’s love of selfies, our survey shows that people of all ages enjoy a selfesteem boost from the compliments they receive on social media.

Birmingham was revealed as the selfie capital of the UK, with a record 27% of respondents saying that sharing selfies where they look good is important for boosting self-esteem.

One in four (26%) 35-54 year olds and one in 10 over 55s say that receiving likes and positive comments about their appearance on social media is important for boosting their self-esteem. In fact, nearly half of UK adults (47%) surveyed said that receiving compliments from others (whether on-or offline) was an important factor for boosting their self-esteem. Almost half of Londoners (49%) rate wearing make-up to look their best to be important. This is less important in Scotland and Wales however, with ratings of 28% and 27% respectively.

Wellbeing across the decades The link between looking good and feeling good has remained consistent since CTPA began tracking the views of the nation back in 2004. Around half of respondents rated being confident in their appearance to be a very important factor for building self-esteem in both 2004 (48%) and 2022 (54%). This was just one of five key factors that have been identified as being necessary in building self-esteem; the other crucial ingredients for a fulfilled life are a supportive family, rewarding job, learning new skills, friendship and financial success. All 2022 results from Opinium research for CTPA. Conducted 25.2.22 to 1.3.22 on a nationally representative sample of 2000 UK adults. 2004 results from ACCESS, the Omnibus Division at BMRB International 2.4.04 on nationally representative sample of 2011 UK adults. www.ctpa.org.uk

@TheCTPA

@thectpa

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 43

DIARYDATES

CALENDAR

GIRL

Commemorate this month’s notable dates with CALLIE ILEY’S pick of themed products & nail art styles for hands & feet

AUGUST In need of birthday nail inspo? This roarsome matte orange ombré nail style by @beyondnailart features hand-painted nods to the Leo star sign.

Nailscopes Those born in August fall under the Leo or Virgo star signs, and will feel a surge in energy and a desire to be more creative than usual.

Psoriasis Awareness Month

Do you have a client with psoriasis? Get clued up on the skin condition and products to avoid during the nail service by checking out our article online. Scan here to view

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Prosecco Day

Pop open some prosecco and celebrate this fizz-tastic day with sparkly nails; perfect for a celebration! Halo Gel Polish in Prosecco £5.49 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk

@clarelyyou serves up a sparkling delight on the ring fingernail.

Cat Day

Make your cat-loving clients purr with delight with a cat or kitten-themed nail design. The day is earmarked to spread awareness of the needs of cats, so dabble with hand-painted designs or paws across nails to leave your client with a Cheshire Cat-style grin.

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@alesha.nailartist shows love for her cat, George, with a fun portrait on the thumbnail.

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Plum Day

CND Shellac™ in Plum Paisley £13.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

These fun nails by @the.nail.nest put a smile on our face.

25 26 27 28 29 30 31 It’s a plum on the thumb! This hand-painted design by @jeealee is simply delectable.

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Plum Day aims to bring the British plum back as the country’s favourite fruit, with the help of the Pershore Plum Festival. Show your love for the fruit with a plum-toned mani.

Never Give Up Day

Life can throw up some curveballs and challenges, so Never Give Up Day encourages us to create a positive, determined mindset to help us overcome hurdles. Add some smiley faces to nails to promote happiness and good vibes.

BRANDSPOTLIGHT

The making of

Mii

As Manicure + Pedicure by Mii celebrates its first birthday, the natural nailcare line’s founder, Susan Gerrard, reflects on its success… REBECCA HITCHON REPORTS Describing manicures and pedicures as ‘firmly rooted in her DNA’, Susan Gerrard has established herself as a force to be reckoned with in the UK nail industry. Over 30 years ago, before nail-only salons were introduced, she brought Jessica Cosmetics, a brand with a focus on natural nailcare, to the UK under her distribution company, Natural Nail Company (later to become Gerrard International). Since then, she has trained thousands of beauty therapists

Susan Gerrard

in manicure and pedicure, and expanded her distribution portfolio, including with her own brand, Mii Cosmetics. So, it seemed only fitting for Susan to apply her industry expertise to launch Mii Manicure + Pedicure, a vegan and cruelty-free range comprising prescriptive nail treatments, fast-drying and long-lasting nail polishes and a gel polish system, with over 130 shade options. “I wanted to put my years of experience to good use and further embed Mii into the fabric of our industry,” she explains, revealing that over seven years of testing went into Mii Manicure + Pedicure’s formulas. “And now, a year into its launch, Mii manicure and pedicure products are in over 800 salons and spas nationwide, and are distributed in three countries.”

Mii Manicure + Pedicure bestsellers Trending top coat “From day one, our fast-drying top coat, Shine + Shield, with its glass-like finish, has been a big hit,” reveals Susan.

Mii Colour Confidence Nail Polish in Red Devil £6.75 + VAT

Popular polishes

Mii Shine + Shield Turbo Dry Top Coat £7.25 + VAT 46 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

• • • • • • • •

Nude hue, Birthday Suit Bright and lively red, Red Devil Pinky-coral, L’Amour Pretty peach shade, Merci Beaucoup Metallic fuchsia pink, Raspberry Ripple Coral red colour, Complete Confidence Dark metallic purple, Midnight Feast Dark navy hue, Scandi–navy

Mii Colour Confidence Nail Polish in Midnight Feast £6.75 + VAT Mii Statement Gel Polish in Raspberry Ripple £15.50 + VAT

BRANDSPOTLIGHT

Mii Care + Caress Hand Serum from £14.50 + VAT & Nourish + Nurture Nail & Cuticle Oil £7.75 + VAT

In-demand handcare Susan tells Scratch that Mii’s Care + Caress Hand Serum has become one of the line’s most popular products over the past 12 months, as has the brand’s Nourish + Nurture Cuticle Oil.

Fashionable footcare

“The Remove + Smooth Callus Peel is a much-loved product that is so effective at eliminating hard, dry skin on the feet,” says Susan.

“Our ethos has, and will always be, to listen, learn and improve, and I believe it is this that has enabled us to grow and will allow us to continue to shine.” What has been key to the natural nailcare line’s success? “I feel that Mii’s early success is down to how well we connected with our spas, salons, therapists and nail technicians,” enthuses Susan. “We have always listened to what they like but even more so, what they don’t like. Our ethos has, and will always be, to listen, learn and improve, and I believe it is this that has enabled us to grow and will allow us to continue to shine.” Reminiscing on the achievements of the range, the nailcare expert adds that her wish is for her team’s high standards to speak for themselves throughout the whole Mii experience – from the products themselves, which undergo an intensive testing and approval process, to their appearance. “We work alongside such talented individuals to create gorgeous visuals and shade displays to support the spas and salons using Mii products. We believe these are as special as the products themselves,” she comments. Following a successful first year for Mii Manicure + Pedicure, Susan is dreaming big for its future. “My hope is that the range will become synonymous with spa and salon experiential treatments,” she smiles. “I would also like our continued training for therapists in application, benefits and homecare advice to allow our industry to rebuild and thrive once again.”

Mii Remove + Smooth Callus Peel from £12.50 + VAT

Mii Colour Confidence Nail Polishes in Nothing To Hide & Totally Out There £6.75 + VAT each

SUSAN’S SUMMER SELECTIONS

“For the summer, I find my perfect nude shade in Nothing To Hide, while for my toes, I like to choose bright turquoise shade, Totally Out There,” reveals Susan.

Mii products are available via www.gerrardinternational.com / www.miicosmetics.com /miicosmetics @miicosmetics @miicosmetics

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 47

THE 1ST LED NAIL POLISH INSTANT DRY - ULTRA LONG WEAR - EASY REMOVAL

Plant-based up to 84%

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Made in france with love

PRODUCTSPOTLIGHT

BUILDER GELS to shape, support &

enhance your nail service

Image courtesy of CND™ (Creative Nail Design, Inc.) showcasing Plexigel, available via www.sweetsquared.com

Scratch shines a spotlight on brush-on gel products to add length & support to your clients’ natural nails… CND™ Plexigel

Purpose: CND™ Plexigel has been formulated as a versatile and convenient multi-problem solution for nails. It provides 3+ weeks of strength, length and shape with minimal application time, and is ideal for repairing chips, cracks and splits in the nail. It can also be used to sculpt short extensions and plump and shape flat nails. Featuring a Bonder, Builder, Shaper and Protector Top Coat, the brush-in-a-bottle system is flexible yet tough, with a selflevelling formula. Use alone or top off with a CND™ nail colour. Plexigel Builder allows you to create customisable length, while Plexigel Shaper offers a high-strength protective barrier that is a foundation for colour longevity and promoting nail growth. Clients: Suitable for all nail types. Use: Plexigel courses and classes to suit all levels of tech are available to book via Sweet Squared. Shades available: Clear, Porcelain, Oat Milk, Spiced Taffy, Soft Blush and Milky Mauve. Cost: £19.95 + VAT Stockist: www.sweetsquared.com

NSI Rubber Base & Builder Gel

Purpose: With the ease of applying gel polish, you can extend and strengthen the natural nail with the Rubber Base & Builder Gel, creating an ideal canvas for nail art or Polish Pro colour. Rubber Base also allows you to create a salon-style nail extension in a short amount of time. Each bottle provides 15 to 20 full services. Clients: Ideal for those seeking short to Nails by Jodie May Evans using medium length extensions or a naturalNSI Rubber Base in Peach. looking, strong overlay. Use: NSI offers a free class at its Manchester Training Academy on purchase of Rubber Base. Shades available: Opaque Pink, Opaque Peach, Clear, Opaque Baby Pink, Soft White, Opaque Pink Shimmer and Opaque Nude. Cost: £13.99 + VAT Stockist: www.nsinails.co.uk

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Mii Strengthen & Shield

Purpose: Strengthen & Shield gel builder provides a strengthening barrier to plump thin, fragile nails. The selflevelling, lightweight formula provides a natural-feeling overlay. Clients: Suited to those with ridged, thin or brittle nails, or those that struggle to grow nails or have imperfections. Use: Place a small bead in the centre of the nail and gently work it around the nail plate until you create a complete, smooth overlay. Opt for a regular gel polish base coat if your client has strong natural nails with no imperfections. Application tips: Check the smoothness of the gel against the light to highlight any imperfections. The formula is thicker than the Mii Statement Gel Polish so avoid brushing where possible and instead, push the product where you want it. Cure one or two nails at a time to prevent the product from running. Shades available: Clear and Pink. Cost: £16.95 + VAT Stockist: www.gerrardinternational.com

INK London SOBIAB

Purpose: SOBIAB is a UV/LED curable base and builder gel in one. It is ideal for sculpted/tipped salon length extensions and natural overlays. SOBIAB is designed to be strong while maintaining soakable properties. Clients: Ideal for most nail types as you can build, shape and create salon-style extensions. Nails by Jessica Hinds Use: Full training and conversion courses are available via INK London. How to apply: 1. Follow the same nail prep as you would for gel polish application. 2. Apply a thin base layer of SOBIAB to each nail, capping the free edge, then cure for 90 seconds. 3. Once cured, apply a thin slip layer of SOBIAB but do not cure. This layer will help you move the product. Pick up a bead of SOBIAB on the brush and place the bead in the back third of the nail, floating the product down the centre of the nail. 4. While the product is still wet, take a thin liner brush and pull the product towards the sidewalls and around the cuticle area, making sure the full nail is covered. By using a thin brush, you will only pull a small amount to the sidewalls and cuticle area, keeping the nail nice and slim and leaving the bulk of the product at the apex and down the centre of the nail where you need the most strength. Cure for 90 seconds. 5. Repeat this on all 10 nails, working on one nail at a time so you don’t lose control of the product. Application tip: If the product is starting to run and you are losing control, flip the client’s hand upside down and let gravity pull the product away from the cuticle and sidewalls. Shades available: Clear, Signature, Babe, Clear Glitter, Clear Pink, Cover It, Milky Pink, Milky White, Signature Glitter, Super White and Milk Plus. Cost: £15 + VAT Stockist: www.inknails.com

Gelish Structure Gel

Purpose: This product is used for repairs, smoothing, strengthening and building. The brush-on formula helps add structure and offers a glossy finish while correcting ridges and other surface imperfections. It is also used to encapsulate nail art. Clients: Suitable for all clients. Use: Gelish Structure Gel can be used between Foundation Gel and a Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish colour for added strength. Alternatively, it can be used with Foundation and Top It Off for a clear, glossy finish while correcting ridges and other surface imperfections. Cure for 30 seconds in the Gelish 18G LED Lamp. Application tips: Create a bead/ball on the nail, then drag to cover the entire nail. This will ensure a smooth, levelled finish. Shades available: Clear, Cover Pink and Translucent Pink. Cost: £23.99 + VAT Stockists: www.gsgroupuk.com www.salon-services.com

PRODUCTSPOTLIGHT

Light Elegance JimmyGel

Purpose: Formulated by and named after Light Elegance owner and head chemist, Jim McConnell, JimmyGel is a soak-off building gel in a bottle. It can perform services ranging from fast natural nail manicures to long, elegant extensions with ease. JimmyGel is formulated to soak off for complete product removal, but can also be used under either soak-off gel polish or hard gel products. Clients: Suited to those that want the 4+ week wear offered by hard gels and the ability to completely remove enhancements without filing the natural nail. Versatility is the key to JimmyGel, which can be used to create the length of nail your client requires quickly and easily. Use: JimmyGel shades can be used to shine on their own, or you can apply hard gel colours or gel polishes on top. JimmyGel offers versatility for every salon service. Shades available: Ideal Pink, Soft Pink, Natural, Boomer White and Original Clear. Cost: £17.51 + VAT Stockist: www.sweetsquared.com

Gellux Builder Gel

Purpose: Add strength and length to the natural nail and gel overlays, or use to sculpt short extensions with forms or nail tips. Clients: Suited to all client types, particularly those who seek additional nail strength and want to extend the longevity of their gel polish service. Shades available: Cool White, Rose Pink, Light Natural and Light Pink. How to apply: 1. Buff the nail with a 180/220-grit buffer. 2. Clean the nail thoroughly with Nail + File Cleansing Spray. 3. Apply Gellux Fast Bond and allow to dry for 30 seconds. 4. Apply a very thin layer of Gellux Builder Gel and cap the free edge. Cure for 60 seconds. 5. Apply a second, thin coat and cure. 6. Pick up a large bead of Builder Gel and place onto the nail. Slowly drag it down to the free edge in a side-to-side motion. 7. Use a fine brush to get the product closer to the sidewalls and cuticle area. 8. Turn the nail upside down and cure for 60 seconds. 9. Apply Gellux Top Coat. Cure for 60 seconds. 10. Cleanse with Gellux Prep + Wipe. Cost: £11.95 + VAT Stockist: Available from wholesalers nationwide.

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PRODUCTSPOTLIGHT

Nailchemy Soak-Off Builder Gel

Purpose: Nailchemy Builder Gel is applied to the natural nail to fill ridges and smooth the surface of the nail, ready for gel polish application. Clients: Add strength and durability for clients that already have good natural nails, or if required, a short sculpted extension is possible, helping to create a strong, lightweight solution. You can also float over tips to help with blending, add strength and support a longer wear time. How to apply: 1. Prep the nail plate and lightly buff to remove shine. 2. File and shape the nails, and dehydrate the nail plate using Nail Prep. 3. Apply a layer of Builder Gel onto the natural nail and cure for 30 seconds. 4. Apply a second layer of Builder Gel and cure for 30 seconds. 5. Finish with top coat or application of a chosen gel polish shade and cure for 30 seconds. Shades available: Cover Beige, Cover Pink, Cover Rose, Crystal Clear and Sheer Pink. Cost: £13.99 + VAT Stockist: www.nailchemy.co.uk

Glitterbels Brushon Builder Gel

Purpose: This handy brushon product adds strength and structure and allows for a small extension to be created. Clients: Ideal for clients who want stronger, longer-lasting nail enhancements that are manageable and suit their lifestyle. It is also ideal for those who wish to begin a natural nail growth programme as the Builder Gel offers strength and protection. Use: Use the puddle raindrop technique to ensure great structure and strength when applying the builder gel. Training is advised to ensure proper application. Shades available: Available in 11 natural-looking shades, including Strawberries & Cream, Soft Shimmer, Peach Shimmer and Cover Pink. Cost: £12.99 inc VAT Stockist: www.glitterbels.com

Halo EasiBuild

Purpose: Offering easy application without a need for primer, EasiBuild is UV and LED compatible and cures in 60 seconds in the Halo 36W LED lamp. Ideal for those seeking a natural nail look with added length and strength, use to create structure before applying shades from the Halo Gel Polish range. How to use: 1. Prep the nails and file using a 180-grit file, ready for product application. 2. Spray the nails with Pure Nails Prep. 3. Apply a layer of Halo Gel Polish Base Coat and cure.

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Artistic Correction Gel

Purpose: Artistic Correction Gel is a thick viscosity brush-on gel designed to add strength and structure. It corrects grooves, ridges and other nail surface imperfections. It can be worn alone or under Artistic Colour Gloss or Colour Revolution shades, and has a 30-second LED cure time with soak-off removal. Clients: Clients looking for a full-coverage, perfected nail in a neutral pink hue can opt for Pink Concealer. Those looking to banish surface imperfections with a touch of bright pink glow should try Translucent Pink for their nail strengthening needs. Correction Gel is ideal for heavy-handed clients whose nails need additional protection. Use: Prior to Artistic Colour Gloss application, apply a coat of Correction Gel over a dry, wiped surface of Bonding Gel. Correction Gel can be applied in a stringing-type application if there are areas that need more product than others. Cure for 30 seconds in the Artistic LED Lamp. Apply colour and proceed with application. Artistic Correction Gel can be used on top of your colour application if any demarcations are more evident once the colour has been applied. It is also great to use after fading or design applications to give a flawless, smooth surface. Application tips: Pink Concealer is a fantastic shade to use for a French manicure, as it gives a beautiful, natural finish. For nail biters, use just Bonding Gel, Clear Correction Gel and Glossing Gel to give nails strength and prevent them from being bitten, allowing them to grow. Remove and repeat every two to three weeks. Shades available: Clear, Pink Concealer and Translucent Pink. Cost: £17.95 + VAT Stockist: www.louellabelle.co.uk Nails by Rachel Herar, Louella Belle brand ambassador

4. Apply a coat of EasiBuild over the nail and build up the apex. Cure. 5. Cleanse and file to refine shape using a 100/180-grit file. Buff the surface of the enhancements using a white block. 6. Dust filings from the nails with a dusting brush and apply a layer of Halo Gel Polish Non Wipe Top coat. Cure. 7. Finish the enhancements with an application of Pure Nails Cuticle Oil. Shades available: White, Clear, Cover Up Peach, Cover Up Pink, Dare2Bare Peach and Dare2Bare Pink. Cost: £7.99 + VAT (8ml), £13.99 + VAT (15ml) Stockist: www.purenails.co.uk

Cuccio Brush-On Builder Gel

Purpose: This calcium-enriched builder gel applies like a soakoff gel polish but works like a hard gel. Ideal for camouflaging re-growth and correcting uneven or bitten nail beds, the self-levelling formula is lightweight and can be used with nail forms or tips to create short extensions. Clients: Ideal for those who seek a short nail enhancement, need to cover imperfections or want to reinforce the strength of weak or brittle nails. Use: The Builder Gel works with all Cuccio Pro, Cuccio Veneer and Cuccio Colour products. Its self-levelling formula is without shrinking effect and the formula is creamy with great adhesion. Shade available: Clear, Cloud White, Gold Dust, Cashmere Sweater, Diamond Dust, Pixie Dust and Cherry Blossom. Cost: £11.99 + VAT Stockist: www.cuccio.co.uk

PRODUCTSPOTLIGHT

iZ Pro Colour Builder Gel

Enhanced nails by @be_gelicious_nails created using iZ Pro Colour Builder Gel

Purpose: This builder gel, available in five naturallooking tones, can be applied directly onto the natural nail to build shape, extend length and add strength. With a 30-second cure time, there is no need for a base coat or primer and enhancements can stay chip-free for up to six weeks. Clients: Suitable for most nail types to add strength and colour. For clients with drier nails, colour may take a little longer to soak off, but heated mitts can increase the soak-off time. Shades available: Cool Pink, Dark Beige Nude, Natural Beige Nude, French Pink Shimmer and French Peach Shimmer Cost: From £16.98 + VAT Stockist: www.izabellehammon.com

The GelBottle Inc BIABTM

Purpose: TGB’s Builder In A Bottle™ is a file-off builder gel ideal for creating strong overlays and adding a strengthening barrier to natural nails. One bottle can achieve 25 to 65 full nail sets. TGB has also launched All-In-One BIAB™, a clear, soak-off BIAB™ that acts as a base, builder gel and top coat and can be used to apply DesignEX Pro™ extensions. How to apply: 1. Prep the nail and remove dead tissue. 2. Apply a thin layer of TGB BIAB™ and cure. 3. Working one nail at a time, apply a very thin layer to the nail then pick up a bead of BIAB™ and place it near the cuticle. Gently drag the product down the nail from side to side. 4. Turn the hand upside down to create an apex and cure. Use: It is not recommend to use BIAB™ to sculpt long nail extensions. Instead, it is recommended to use The GelBottle Inc’s Gel Pot for that specific use, or DesignEx Pro™ express gel extension tips. However, BIAB™ can be used to seal nail breaks and sculpt a small nail extension. To get the perfect sculpted BIAB™ apex, use a liner brush to manipulate the gel where it needs to be for strength. This will ensure a smooth, beautiful finish. Shades available: Available in around 30 shades, from clear to natural tones, pink, red and lilac. Cost: £16.99 + VAT Stockist: www.thegelbottle.com

Nails by @be_gelicious_nails

Entity Rubber Base Purpose: Rubber Base Gel is a selflevelling base gel with a rubberised quality to provide flexibility while maintaining adhesion to the natural nail and colour coatings. The volumising effect of the formula helps shape the natural nail to act as a ridge filler to conceal imperfections. Rubber Base Gel can be used on its own or as a base layer for Entity Colour Couture LED Gel Polish. Clients: This is ideal for clients who have weak and brittle nails that may break or crack easily. Shades available: Crystal Clear, Blush Pink, Soft Pink and Warm Beige. Cost: £14.95 + VAT Stockist: www.thecreativebeautygroup.co.uk SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 53

NATURALNAILCARE

The naked Natural nail specialists share their client nail journeys, aftercare advice & how they’ve treated a variety of conditions at the nail desk CHLOE RANDALL REPORTS Leaving the nail salon with an Instagrammable nail design may be desirable for many clients, but what good is an amazing nail style without a healthy natural nail as its foundation? You may find as a nail pro that you have clients experiencing a natural nail issue due to an ongoing medical condition, trauma or poor care. Scratch explores ways to treat common concerns, where appropriate (following a full consultation and when deemed safe to do so), and how to navigate difficult nail journeys. Entity Natural Nail Prep £10.95 + VAT www.thecreativebeautygroup.co.uk 56 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

truth

Consultation is vital

Before any appointment, a consultation is imperative in order to identify and determine any nail conditions that may be caused by trauma, existing health conditions or hormonal changes, and to set out the client’s nail goals. It also helps you to manage their expectations and explore the best route for treatment.

Pedicure Name:

Whether the client is familiar to you or someone completely new to your services, carry out a consultation every time to ensure nothing has changed since you last saw them. The information gathered should be noted on a client record or in your salon software system to be used as reference at any point.

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Including allergy information in the consultation process is crucial to ensure you are not putting your client at risk. According to the British Association of Dermatologists, 2.4% of people tested at 13 dermatology units had an allergy to at least one type of acrylate chemical, a key ingredient in acrylic, gel and gel polish. Therefore, the client informing you about any allergies they have can help you to make appropriate decisions at the nail desk.

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NATURALNAILCARE

HORMONAL CHANGES

One of the side effects of pregnancy and the menopause is an impact on hair, skin and nails. According to Hormonely, the higher oestrogen and progesterone levels experienced during pregnancy can make hair, skin and nails grow faster, or cause ridges and splits in the nails. In regard to the menopause, the drop in oestrogen levels can make nails dry and brittle. Recording these hormonal changes during the consultation can help prepare you for the effects you may see on the client’s nails and how to appropriately care for them.

CASE STUDY: Kay Kirsop, Scratch Stars Natural Nail Specialist of the Year finalist 2022

IBX Duo Pack £34.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

“I have a client who is perimenopausal and I have found that during this change of hormones, her nails showcase flakiness.

Product spotlight: IBX treatment

“We started off with two weekly appointments using Famous Names IBX Strengthen and Repair, and it worked incredibly well for her. After eight weeks, we saw a dramatic improvement in her natural nail condition and have continued the strengthening treatment. I also retail the Famous Names Dadi’Oil and Dadi’Lotion products and my client uses these at home daily. “Unfortunately, splits in the nail and peeling can also be caused by changes in hormones, which can happen due to age and the reduction of collagen. It is something that I find clients are very conscious of as it can cause gel polish to chip easily. “Applying gel polish over any part of the nail that is peeling, flaky or split will cause the gel polish to crack and chip. I find that IBX is a great treatment for clients that have these issues as it repairs from the inside out.

IBX and IBX Repair work in two parts, to act as both a protective shield for the natural nail and a nail strengthening system. The system can also be used to repair severe nail damage, as it penetrates the nail plate and serves to help smooth deep ridges.

It is safe to use during pregnancy, on diabetic clients, clients with split or flaky nails, or clients that have had trauma to the nail. It can be used on its own, under nail polish, gel polish, acrylic, hard gel or gel extensions.

Mii Strong + Stable Base Coat £9.75 + VAT/RRP £19.50 www.gerrardinternational.com www.miicosmetics.com

Famous Names Dadi’Oil £8.50 + VAT/RRP £16 www.louellabelle.co.uk

“The process of repair depends on the client and how much the nail is peeling or flaking. I recommend having the IBX treatment every other week. This makes the process cost-effective for the client and after the first two weeks, you can see a difference in nail health. If the damage is the same after two weeks, I recommend another appointment in two weeks’ time. If after a month we need to see each other weekly, then that can be done. Again, this does depend on the natural nail.” /kaycoopernails @kaycoopernails

INK London Staleks Cuticle Pusher PE-52/2 £POA www.inknails.com

TOP TIP

Kay’s client’s nails following one session of IBX treatment. The nails of Kay’s client following several IBX treatments.

Recommend to your clients that they keep cuticle oil beside their toothbrush, as this helps them to remember to apply it morning and night as part of their personal care routine. It is easier to introduce a new routine when it is incorporated into an old one! SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 57

NATURALNAILCARE

IMPACT OF DIABETES

What are ridges?

According to the Association for Professionals in Infection Control & Epidemiology, people with diabetes are more prone to infection as high blood sugar levels can weaken their immune system. In addition, they may have peripheral nerve damage and reduced blood flow to their extremities, which can also increase the chance of infection. With this in mind, when treating a diabetic client, extra care must be taken and a difference in the type of tools you use may need to be considered.

Ridges are vertical or horizontal lines across the nail that are usually associated with age, but can be caused by the menopause. Circulatory problems can also be causal factors, and as circulatory problems are often linked with CND™ RidgeFX £4.95 diabetes, ridges are common + VAT/RRP £11.95 among diabetic clients. www.sweetsquared.com

CASE STUDY: Tanya Jeskins, Scratch Stars Natural Nail Specialist of the Year finalist 2022 “One of my clients has Type 1 diabetes and during our initial consultation, I asked about her general nail health, her diabetes checks and whether there is any neuropathy in her hands or fingers. I also asked about medication, her home nailcare routine and long-term nail goals. These questions are reviewed at the beginning of each appointment. “The client’s nails had deep ridges, delamination at the free edge on almost all nails, were slow to grow and when we first started our manicures, there seemed to be slightly poor circulation to the nail plate.

June 2021: The client’s nails before any treatment.

The nails after IBX treatment and and gentle cuticle work.

“Her long-term goals are to grow her nails a little, although her preference is short in length as she spends time glass making and sewing. “The process so far has taken nearly a year and now the ridges, delamination and nail plate all look much healthier. We have used the Famous Names IBX treatment regularly to improve ridges, strength and delamination. “I also use an orange stick wrapped in cotton wool to ease back the eponychium and cuticle oil to soften the cuticle tissue on the nail plate. I then use an orange stick wrapped in cotton wool to remove the excess instead of metal tools, as they risk cutting the skin and those with diabetes are prone to infection.

During an IBX treatment, to strengthen and reduce delamination and ridges.

“I apply Gellux Base Coat in Cover Pink as it improves the look of deep ridges and offers a natural-looking colour overlay. Using a gel coating gives my client’s nails strength with flexibility and allows for some growth without risk Gellux Cover Pink Base Coat of the natural nail breaking. £11.95 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

“For aftercare, I recommend the Sapooni Nail & Cuticle Balm, which is blended with moisturising ingredients including almond oil to moisturise the cuticle skin and dry skin around the fingertips. I also suggest evening primrose oil, which relieves any itchiness caused by dry skin, rosemary essential oil which is naturally antiseptic, and tea tree oil for its anti-bacterial properties. The balm is non-greasy Sapooni Nail & Cuticle and handy to put in a handbag to use Balm £5.50 inc VAT www.sapooni.com throughout the day.”

The client’s nails in their current state.

www.tanyajeskinshairandnails.com /tanyajeskinshairandnails @tanyajeskinshairandnails The consultation card filled out before the appointment for Tanya’s client.

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The aftercare advice given to Tanya’s client.

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NATURALNAILCARE

CANCER TREATMENT EFFECTS

During active cancer treatment like chemotherapy, the nails can change in a variety of ways – from gaining a bruised appearance to being brittle and lifting away from the nail bed. Observe your client’s nails at the beginning of each appointment and ask them to check with their medical professional before commencing the treatment.

CASE STUDY: Lucy Price, Scratch Stars Natural Nail Specialist of the Year finalist 2022 “One of my clients, who is a regular gel polish client, is undergoing treatment for breast cancer. She had her nail coatings removed before surgery and is now undergoing chemotherapy.

Lucy’s client’s nails removed of gel polish before treatment.

“My client discussed her diagnosis and treatment plan with me during a consultation. I’ve found that it’s important to ask for as many details as possible, to determine the most appropriate course of action and to follow the advice of their oncologist. “My client revealed that she would still like regular nail treatments and I recommended a natural nail manicure after following her oncologist’s guidelines and wishes. “Consultation is vital and client care is a priority, so we cannot diagnose or make recommendations without guidance from clients’ medical practitioners. Similarly, advice will vary from client to client so medical advice is crucial, as no two clients’ cancer care journey will be the same. OPI Nail Envy Original £POA/RRP £21.10 www.trade.opiuk.com

“After removing my client’s usual gel colour and any other enhancements to minimise the risk of infection, I have maintained nails with natural nail manicures, keeping the skin and nails hydrated using the OPI Pro Spa Range for a luxury manicure and Nail Envy to protect the nails.

A split, broken nail is one of the side effects of chemotherapy.

“Since starting chemotherapy, nail growth has slowed and there have been occasional marks on the client’s nails due to treatment. They are drier, thinner and more brittle, therefore are more likely to break low down. I have been focusing on hydration and wellbeing. “The initial consultation, removal and luxury manicure took around

OPI Pro Spa Nail & Cuticle 90 minutes. The treatment of the client’s nails is ongoing Oil £POA/RRP from £12.80 and after my client finishes her chemotherapy, it may www.trade.opiuk.com

take 6 to 12 months for her nails to grow out.

“I recommend my client continues use of OPI Nail Envy at home, reapplying one coat every other day, removing after a week with acetone-free nail polish remover, and then reapplying another two coats alongside OPI Pro Spa Nail & Cuticle Oil and the OPI Pro Spa Protective Hand, Nail & Cuticle Cream. “We plan to use IBX once her course of chemotherapy is complete. Some consultants recommend that patients wear dark colours during chemo as the sunlight and UV exposure can make nails lift from the nail bed.” /nailspahuddersfield

@lucyrosenails

The client’s manicure, finished with OPI Nail Envy.

Jessica Biopure Nail Polish Remover £7.35 + VAT/RRP £14 www.gerrardinternational.com

STEP-BY-STEP: Step 1 Consultation. Step 2 Client washes hands. Step 3 File and shape nails using a single-use file. I keep the client’s nails short to prevent breaks. Step 4 Prep the nails and apply cuticle exfoliator. Step 5 Remove hand and arm exfoliator with warm mitts. I avoid soaking nails and skin, and use warm rather than hot mitts as the client is more sensitive since beginning chemotherapy. Step 6 Hand and arm massage using OPI Moisture Whip Massage Cream. Step 7 Spritz of Moisture Bonding Ceramide Spray. Step 8 Using OPI NAS 99, I remove oil from the nail plate and apply two coats of OPI Nail Envy. Step 9 Finish with OPI ProSpa Nail & Cuticle Oil.

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What are brittle nails?

If a client has brittle nails, it means they lack moisture and are dry and hard. While they may seem strong, they are actually quite fragile and are more prone to breaking.

Mii Preserve + Protect Base Coat £7.25 + VAT/RRP £14.50 www.gerrardinternational.com www.miicosmetics.com

NATURALNAILCARE

INCORRECT REMOVAL OF NAIL ENHANCEMENTS

Improper removal of enhancement products can cause damage to nails, leaving them weak, thin and suffering from delamination. The use of home gel kits is aggravating this problem, so ensure your client always turns to a pro by treating their weak nails with care and consideration.

CASE STUDY: Metta Francis, Scratch Stars Natural Nail Specialist of the Year 2021 & 2022 “One of my clients had L&P acrylic nail enhancements that were removed incorrectly, which left her natural nails in a thin, weak state and prone to splits. “There were visible signs of nail trauma where the damage was growing out, and the client told me that her nails kept breaking and peeling. There were horizontal splits in the nails and pitting, and the client had dry skin with lots of cuticle build-up. “I carried out a full consultation, which included asking the client if she had any allergies and skin sensitivities. I asked for her medical history, what she wanted to achieve from her appointment and general nail preferences. I then asked what sort of lifestyle she had, if she used any aftercare products, how often she received nail treatments and specific questions about her current nail condition; for example, how long ago did she have the enhancements applied, did her nails hurt, how were the nail enhancements removed and what products did the previous nail technician use. “I used IBX to strengthen and repair my client’s natural nails, followed by CND™ Plexigel Builder in Soft Blush to give her nails extra strength and protection as they grow out. “To prep the nails, I used PersoNAILity’s Split tool and Reliable nippers and for hydration, I used Famous Names Dadi Lotion Gold and CBD Elixir for a super hydrating hand treatment. I followed this with CB-Dadi’Oil to hydrate the cuticle area and nails.

The nails of Metta’s client before filing and nail prep.

“Initially, the client wanted nail extensions but due to the condition of her nails, I advised on the IBX treatment and CND™ Plexigel overlay. I mentioned that if we created extensions, it would be likely that they would not last due to the condition of her natural nails at that stage, so it is important to nurse her natural nails back to good health first. “I advised my client to keep her nails short and provided her with a nail file at CNDTM Plexigel Builder in the end of the appointment so she could do this. An aftercare sheet on how Soft Blush £19.95 + VAT best to look after her nails was given, suggesting that she wears gloves when www.sweetsquared.com

using chemicals, should apply cuticle oil and avoid prolonged soaking in water. I advised my client to monitor her nail condition and update me, and reschedule an appointment in two to three weeks.”

The client’s nails after IBX and Plexigel.

STEP-BY-STEP: Famous Names CBD Elixir (60ml) £55 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk Split by PersoNAILity £49.50 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

The CND™ Plexigel system is available via www.sweetsquared.com

Step 1 Client and I wash hands and sanitise. Step 2 Trim nails and file to shape. Step 3 Carry out cuticle prep. Step 4 Cleanse nails. Step 5 Apply IBX Repair, heat, blot and cure in UV/LED lamp. Step 6 Cleanse nails. Step 7 Apply IBX, heat, blot and cure inUV/LED lamp (x2). Step 8 Cleanse nails. Step 9 Lightly buff nails to remove shine and thoroughly cleanse using CND™ Scrubfresh. Step 10 Apply CND™ Plexigel bonder and cure. Step 11 Apply CND™ Plexigel Builder in Soft Blush and cure (x2), to build the apex and structure. Step 12 Apply CND™ Plexigel Protector Top Coat and cure. Step 13 Cleanse nails. Step 14 Apply Dadi’Lotion Gold and CBD Elixir and massage into nails. Step 15 Apply CB-Dadi’Oil to all nails and massage in. www.nailsbymets.com

/nailsbymets

@nailsbymets

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NATURALNAILCARE

EDUCATING YOUR CLIENTS: THE IMPORTANCE OF AFTERCARE Giving your clients advice and offering them suitable retail items for their natural nails helps to maintain nail health between appointments. Experts share how to educate your client about aftercare importance…

Claire Blincoe

“I explain the importance of looking after nails during the initial consultation and throughout the appointment,” reveals Claire Blincoe, Georgie Smedley Group educator. “There’s no point in the client paying money to have beautiful nails if they are not prepared to look after them at home. Products will not last as well if the nails are not looked after.

“Encourage clients to treat their nails as jewels – not tools, and to always wear gloves when doing housework and gardening, as well as to use a good quality cuticle oil. I retail Gelish Vitalixir to clients and invite them to book an appointment every two to three weeks.” “Clients come to us to receive treatments that make them feel good about themselves, and we all know that having beautiful, healthy nails makes Gelish Vitalixir £9.99 us feel amazing,” states + VAT/RRP £23.99 www.gsgroupuk.com Rhiannon Hawdon, social www.salon-services.com Rhiannon Hawdon media educator at Cuccio. “I often discuss this with clients during the prep part of the appointment, as they are often curious about what we are doing when prepping the nail. I explain each step as I do it and try not to use too much ‘nail jargon’ so they understand why what I’m doing is important.”

Retail, retail, retail Aftercare not only keeps your hard work looking its best, but is also a great opportunity to retail products to clients to boost income. So how can you retail aftercare products effectively?

Aftercare essential

“My must-have product for every nail client is a cuticle oil! Using a cuticle oil daily will not only improve the appearance of the client’s nails and surrounding skin, but it will also Amy Martin stop the nails from dehydrating,” says Amy Martin, Georgie Smedley Group educator. “Encouraging clients to spend time massaging the oil into their cuticles will also encourage blood flow to the matrix – which encourages healthy nail growth!” Glitterbels Coconut Cuticle Oil £5.99 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

Light Elegance LEPro Cuticle Oil £3.45 + VAT/RRP £7.95 www.sweetsquared.com NSI Nurture Oil from £5.25 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk

Gelish Nourish Cuticle Oil £4.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

“After completing the service, apply cuticle oil or balm and recommend that your clients purchase one to maintain the health of their nails at home,” says Jaz Moger Jaz Moger, Salon System nail expert. “This final suggestion takes us full circle to the initial conversation we had during the prep stage, whereby we technicians work together with our clients with regard to their nail health.” Salon System Gellux Nail & Cuticle Oil £4.45 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

Jessica Nourish Therapeutic Cuticle Cream £7.55 + VAT/RRP £14.75 www.gerrardinternational.com

Peacci‘ Shape Nail File £5 + VAT/RRP £8 www.thegelbottle.com

Pure Nails Cuticle Feed £4.45 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk

Tiffany Minifie, The Gel Bottle Inc nail expert and content creator, shares her aftercare checklist: • For the first 24 hours avoid hot water, steam, long baths, doing dishes and swimming etc. • Wear gloves while washing up, gardening etc. • Use cuticle oil multiple times throughout the day. I apply oil every time I wash my hands. • Never attempt to remove enhancements yourself, as this can cause a lot of damage Tiffany Minifie to the nail plate. Return to the salon for any maintenance or removal needs. • Do not use nails as tools; for peeling/scraping off labels, opening soft drink cans etc. • Avoid biting or picking at the nails as this can cause breaks and chips.

62 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

‘ Cuticle Oil Peacci £6 + VAT/RRP £10 www.thegelbottle.com

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STYLE WITH

e i d a S

‘ Creative nail expert & content creator for TGB & Peacci, SADIE JORDAN, shares on-trend nail styles, tips & steps

How to choose nail art for shorter nail shapes

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Accentuate short, round nails with the addition of curved lines and circular shapes. ABSTRACT: Paint thin, curved lines in pops of neon using a liner brush, and finish with a matte top coat, like @imarninails.

/na

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Negative space is my go-to style for short nails. A micro French is also a great option, as it can be created with any colours and the thickness of the tip

Inst

Short oval & round nails

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This doesn’t mean that it’s impossible to achieve intricate nail art on short nails – it just takes skill and an extremely steady hand to downscale your work. Some of the best art I’ve seen on tiny fingernails (and toenails!) is by @nailedbytav.

can be adjusted to suit any nail shape and length. Half moon styles also offer a clean, neat finish if the shape and size is uniform. Get creative with colours and add petals along the top of the half moon to create a playful floral look.

Instagram.com/imarninails

hen creating nail art on naturally shorter nails, consider the size of the canvas you are working on. Simple and delicate designs are best, as they won’t overcrowd the nail plate and will enhance its shape and interest. Don’t try to cram the Mona Lisa onto the world’s smallest canvas!

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Instagram.com/_alwbeauty

Instagram.com/nailedbytav

HALF MOONS: Use a dotting tool to delicately place dots in a half moon formation, as @_alwbeauty shows using pastel shades.

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Short square & squoval nails Opt for an angular or geometric design to complement short, square-shaped nails.

Instagram.com/sadiejnails

BORDERS: Create a thin border (or ‘frame’) around the nail using a liner brush. This can be done in any colour of your choosing, but I love to use white, bright and neon hues. Avoid using red and dark pink shades as they can create the look of sore skin and cuticles.

GRIDS: With a steady hand and a liner brush, paint thin horizontal and vertical lines to create a grid. Use a white or a pale grey shade to create a clean, minimal look or if your client is feeling adventurous, choose a bright colour, such as the yellow Peacci ‘ Lemonade shade used in my grid design.

STEP-BY-STEP: Gilded cuffs Step 1 Apply two coats of TGB’s Cashmere to all nails, curing between each coat. Step 2 Apply one coat of TGB Matte Top Coat to act as a barrier for the FoilX Foil. Step 3 Using TGB FoilX Gel and a detailer brush, paint a thin, curved line near the cuticle area and cure for 60 seconds. Step 4 Firmly press the FoilX Foil of your choice onto the cured gel until it transfers. For this design, I used 24 Karat from the TGB FoilX Foil Collection. Step 5 Neaten up the line using TGB’s One Stroke Brush dampened in alcohol. Step 6 Apply TGB Extreme Shine Top Coat to seal the foil design and add a beautiful glossy finish.

Medium almond & oval nails Follow the curves of this nail shape with delicate line work.

The GelBottle Inc Soak-Off Gel Polish in Cashmere £14.50 + VAT

TGB FoilX Foil Collection £10 + VAT

CUFFS: Funk up a neutral base with dainty bright or metallic foil cuffs using TGB’s FoilX Gel. SWIRLS: Swirl one or two pastel colours across the nail, leaving glimpses of negative space. I love this pop of aqua by @amberjhnails!

TGB FoilX Foil Gel £16.50 + VAT

Instagram.com/amberjhnails

TOP TIP

TGB One Stroke Brush £9 + VAT

Follow Sadie:

Alternatively to applying Matte Top Coat, wipe the tacky with layer and gently buff the entire surface of the nail before applying FoilX Gel.

@sadiejnails

The GelBottle Inc products are available via www.thegelbottle.com /thegelbottleinc

@the_gelbottle_inc

/TheGelBottleInc SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 65

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BUSINESSMATTERS

CUT COSTS &

CONSERVE Future-proof your business with top tips for reducing both your business costs & environmental impact REBECCA HITCHON REPORTS

As the cost of living crisis forces many of us to reflect on how we can cut costs in our businesses, we’ve considered how to do so in a way that takes care of the environment, too. Here, we highlight simple ways to reduce waste as well as spend across a number of areas of your business, to help you thrive in the long-term.

GREEN SALON COLLECTIVE’S TOP LIGHTING TIPS: • Clean dusty lighting regularly.

Instagram.com/greensaloncollective

• Use long-lasting, low-energy LED lighting.

BE ENERGY EFFICIENT

Stephanie Hodgson, head of research and development at Green Salon Collective, the authority on hair and beauty salon sustainability, advises doing an audit first to understand your energy use and where it may be being wasted*. She cites research as being similarly crucial when choosing equipment and an energy Stephanie Hodgson provider. Her recommendations include searching for ‘Energy Star’ certified items and providers with ‘Renewable Energy Guarantees of Origin’, to see how much electricity they generate from renewable sources.

• Buy fixtures with a dimmer to manually adjust intensity. • Install motion detectors for frequently unoccupied areas. • Rewire restroom fans to operate with lights. • Install energy management system technology to automatically control lights.

Phantom energy is a huge, avoidable waste of energy, Stephanie continues. “This is energy that is still being used by equipment that remains plugged in but not in use,” she explains. “You can combat this by programming equipment to standby or hibernate during breaks, and by powering down equipment when closing for the day.”

Take control of energy costs

Jennie Nippard

Jennie Nippard, Glitterbels deputy head of education, tackles phantom energy in her salon, keeping electricals like lights and air conditioning units switched off when not in use or needed. She adds that renewable energy sources like solar are worthwhile investments, with solar panels eventually paying for themselves.

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The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) has partnered with energy consultancy, Direct Business Solutions, to help tackle the rising cost of energy crisis for members. The collaboration aims to help salons find an energy contract best suited to their business’ needs, providing a choice of like for like quotes and a dedicated account representative. Become a NHBF member by scanning here

BUSINESSMATTERS

PULL THE PLUG ON PAPER “Digital and social media advertising eliminates the need for printing, making it more costeffective and environmentally friendly than paper marketing,” comments Jennie Nippard. “Using a digital admin programme can reduce hours spent working on administrative tasks, too, freeing up time for performing treatments and therefore bringing in more money.”

Cathy Lansbury-Palmer

Pure Nails Halo VIP, Cathy Lansbury-Palmer, adds that an online booking system has been the most valuable asset for running her business smoothly and going paperless. “All my consultation forms are done via email, too,” she says. “I also no longer offer paper receipts – if a client wants a receipt, they have a copy emailed or sent via text.”

WASH WISELY

Did you know that for a typical wash at 40°C, 75% of the carbon footprint is attributed to the drying phase? That’s why, as well as washing laundry in full loads on an eco-setting to save water, it is important to hang it out to dry when possible.

Product picks

“Modern manufacturing techniques have allowed for the evolution of eco-friendly, recyclable, biodegradable and disposable towels to the level of being a viable replacement for cotton towels,” comments Abbas Vawda, MD of Majestic Towels Ltd., who tells Scratch about the brand’s disposable towel offering for manicures and pedicures. “These can greatly reduce and Abbas Vawda eliminate laundering costs without sacrificing a client’s comfort levels, and also promote good hygiene practice.”

BULK BUY

“Purchasing in bulk reduces packaging use and trips to the shops, saving in fuel – which we could all benefit from at the moment and which reduces pollution,” says Cathy Lansbury-Palmer. “A lot of items are available to buy in bulk, such as lint-free wipes, acetone, cleaning products, desk towels, gloves, and even hand and cuticle care products.”

Amy Martin

“Opting for a bigger order is also a great way to get better savings and often free shipping,” adds Georgie Smedley Group educator, Amy Martin. “Stay in the know about when your favourite brands are holding sales, so you can do bulk orders and receive huge discounts, while being environmentally friendly.”

TAKE CARE OF TEMPERATURE Majestic Towels Disposable Pedicure/Manicure Towels (100 pk) £12 + VAT www.majestictowels.co.uk

But water isn’t just used in laundry; it is also a key part of pedicures – something that Cathy Lansbury-Palmer noticed before switching to the Elim MediHeel system. “MediHeel seems to use less water than other brands due to it involving a peel, and you can double up with the range’s mask and exfoliant, which saves refilling the pedi basin three times,” she says. Interested in becoming an Elim Pedi Pro? Discover training options by scanning here

When you do have to use heating or cooling systems in your salon, ensure that you’re conserving and not wasting this energy. In the winter, Cathy LansburyPalmer advises keeping doors closed and offering blankets to clients to retain heat. In the summer months, Jennie Nippard recommends placing ice in front of fans to cool air, as well as opening windows and doors (although if you are using air conditioning, keep these closed to conserve this energy!) She also advises utilising blinds to keep direct sunlight out. Discover more tips for keeping your salon space cool on page 26.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 69

BUSINESSMATTERS

REFILL, REUSE & RECYCLE

“Buying refill bottles of nail treatment essentials is a great way to save money, as you usually get a larger quantity of product for a better saving, and this cuts down packaging use,” reveals Amy Martin. As well as soak-off solution refills being an option to reduce waste in the nail removal process, reusable clips are available as an alternative to singleuse foils. “Personally, I find them a lot easier to use,” comments OPI Nail Dani Bailey Boss, Dani Bailey. “With foils, if you want to check if the nails are soaked enough, you have to unwrap, and they never wrap around the finger the same after this, while with the clips, you can have a look and clip on again if needed. They are also easy to clean, only requiring a wash in soapy water and soak in disinfectant.”

Izabelle Hammon 1L Soak Off Refill Solution £7.50 + VAT www.izabellehammon.com

The GelBottle Inc Pro Soak Off Removal Clips £12 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

And the environmental benefits of recycling are well-known, but did you know that you can also benefit financially? RecycLeBelle is a scheme from Louella Belle that collects and recycles old product bottles from any brand, including gel, nail polish and nail treatment bottles. By returning any four empty bottles in a prepaid envelope, Louella Belle customers receive 15% off their next order. Scan here to find out more

“As well as soak-off solution refills being an option to reduce waste in the nail removal process, reusable clips are available as an alternative to single-use foils.”

*www.greensaloncollective.com/blogs/education/how-to-be-an-energy-wise-business 70 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Gelish Cleanser Refill £29.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com www.salon-services.com

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

READERS GALLERY Nail artist & glitter lover, CSILLA CZENTYE, shares her creative designs & career story to date

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

Name – Csilla Czentye Age – 38 Business name – Zara Nails by Chilla Location – Devizes, Wiltshire Years in nails – 18 years Trained with – Perfect Nails (in Hungary), La Femme, Glitterbels and Kylea Wherry. Favourite products – I have used a number of brands, but I adore Glitterbels as it has an amazing selection of coloured and glitter acrylics, builder gels and hema-free gel polishes. The product coverage is brilliant and there are exciting launches regularly. Glitterbels also has a large selection of gel paints which cater to my artistic needs. Favourite nail technique – I love to sculpt with L&P and enjoy using builder gel. Favourite nail design – This changes with the seasons, but I try to incorporate glitter into my nail designs as much as possible. My clients are open and

trusting of my skills, so there is no limit as to what can be created. I like sculpting 3D and 4D florals and hand-painting Disney characters. Career ambition & vision – When I moved to England, I knew little English and had a six-year gap in my nail career. With the support of my husband, I redid my nail qualifications while I learned the language and then set up my own business, working as a mobile nail tech. Now, I work from home and am a Glitterbels brand ambassador. My goal was to teach, and in 2020, Glitterbels appointed me as an educator. The next step is to travel to salons around the country and teach. Work hard and don’t give up on your dreams; you will reach your goals! Who do you admire in the industry? The list is very long, but a few amazing people I look up to are Glitterbels founder, Annabel Maginnis, Marian Newman BEM, Kirsty Meakin, Liza Winter, Kylea Wherry, Andreea Simona Ignat, Anita Podoba and Krisztina Ujvari. E: zara.chilla@glitterbels.com @zara.nails.chilla

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 73

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Chair – Marian Newman BEM

Deputy chair & director of information – Sue Davies

Director of education – Donna Clayton

Director of finance & legal affairs – Denise Spragg

THE FORCE

OF THE FEDS DONNA CLAYTON explores the place of online education in the nail industry & what may need to change going forward

ONLINE EDUCATION: CHANGING THE NARRATIVE

n 2020, we saw the rise of the online educator and an increase in online courses, with very mixed reviews. Are we fearful of change? As an industry, should we catch up with the rest of the world? Are distance and remote learning methods here to stay and the right move forward? To explore this, we must look at the pros and cons, both collectively as an industry, and as a professional, and we must make informed decisions on how to move forward.

Taking online courses kept many of us occupied over the lockdown periods. For some, they supported mental health, giving a point of focus in unusual and difficult circumstances.

Online courses vary wildly in cost, duration and accreditation. So how are you supposed to choose what is right and what will be valuable? And more importantly, what will your insurance accept? It’s a lot to consider. With every passing day, you are bombarded with more, which can lead you to make impulsive purchases and have feelings of missing out on something great, fear of being left behind, anxiety and self-doubt. 74 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

We can break these courses down into three main categories:

Online

This course type is great for skill advancement (taking your technical skills further in something you are already competent in) and skill refinement (replicating something by repetition until competency is achieved). This type of course will have no detrimental effect on the health of the client or significant outcome if performed incorrectly. There will be no interaction with the tutor beyond emails or messages if the platform allows, and the course will usually be delivered via video and through downloading a protocols worksheet.

“We need to change the narrative towards online courses; we are a hands-on industry sector, and for an entirely new Virtual skill or complete beginner, Virtual learning is suited to both skill advancement and new skill it is important to see the development, in particular for competent demonstrations up-close and technicians switching or adding systems, and busy technicians who have little time. for the tutor to see the work This type of course will usually be delivered and give feedback to via a video call, with manuals or protocols sent and often a series of videos for replaying. aid improvement.”

Learning is good for your development, business and clientele, and the courses taught us new skills, refreshed old skills, and extended knowledge in areas of competency. Adding additional techniques to treatment lists, bringing more depth to services thus elevating our position, keeping up to date with the latest trends and introducing an entirely new income stream are all positives. However, the abundance of online course offerings available is somewhat overwhelming, advertised by sponsored ads on social media and group forums, where you ask a question and receive multiple responses and links to match. It’s a noisy world.

We need to change the narrative towards online courses. We are a hands-on industry sector, and for an entirely new skill or complete beginner, it is important to see the demonstrations up-close and for the tutor to see the work and give feedback to aid improvement.

Case studies are usually the chosen form of assessment of competence and a typical training day is done in the virtual capacity with breaks. The benefits of this are that you can see the zoomed-in view of the demonstration without looking over the trainer’s shoulder, so to speak. It provides a level of interaction you don’t get watching a video, and it is also great for those who struggle to attend face-to-face classes due to anxiety.

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Blended learning

This is the pre-curser to a face-to-face course and blends either online video tutorials, text, pictures and/or virtual video calling to deliver the main bulk of the theory work and introduce the foundation aspects of the practical work. This allows for bite-sized information to be delivered at the learner’s own pace in the run-up to the course and reduces overwhelming feelings on practical days. It also allows for revisiting of information to further solidify the learning that has taken place. This is often in the format of a portal or learning platform via a website, which can be used to submit assignments and case studies, meaning practical time is focused solely on the skills. You must always check that the method of delivery will be covered by your insurance provider. Many will not cover you without some form of interaction and the criteria for each insurer is different, so it is wise to check before paying out for any course. Some are happy if case studies or video recordings of yourself are submitted to prove competence, and others only accept video calls or face-to-face.

HOW DO WE BUY COURSES BETTER?

We need to ask ourselves several questions before we get into the intricate details of determining if a chosen course is suitable: • Will this improve the service I currently offer, make it more efficient or cost-effective? • Does this close a gap in the market? • Does this directly improve the life or problem that my clientele has? • Will this create a bigger profit margin or significantly increase my running costs? Once you have ascertained that this is indeed a good move for your business and clientele, the course itself needs to be investigated further. If not visible, ask the provider: • How will the learning take place; via video call, YouTube or video clips, reading a manual or face-to-face? • How will I be assessed and prove my competency in the service; via a case study, video case study, face-to-face exam or theoretical exam? • Who accredits or awards the course? You will find awarding organisations only allow video calling as a substitute for not being able to perform face-to-face under certain www.the-fnp.com

/TheFNPUK

circumstances. Accreditation companies only allow this for a brand new skill or a beginner’s course. You must ensure the course is still endorsed by the accrediting company and that the renewal hasn’t lapsed, as well as what the conditions for online work are. Many will only allow a video call (virtual learning), therefore the course will not be validated by the accreditors if the terms of the course accreditor are not met by the provider. Is this frustrating? Most definitely, but does it need to be done? Yes! Unfortunately, not everyone follows the guidance and terms set out by their accreditor, leading to uninsurable courses being taken.

THE FUTURE OF EDUCATION

Some form of online learning is most definitely a good move forward, as it serves a useful purpose with theory work, allowing diagrams to come to life and a self-paced form of learning. This encompasses many learning styles and allows you to learn at times that suit around other commitments, helping you to have a base knowledge to build upon when you attend practical sessions. This combination of learning techniques within the online arena, moving toward more virtual and blended learning platforms, is the future of education within the sector. To summarise, online courses will always exist in every size, shape, and manner but it is we as the consumer who can make the difference to the quality and integrity in which they are applied. Shop around, ask questions and investigate. As long as we continue to buy inadequate courses, there will always be a market for them. Help us to elevate the industry!

NEWSFLASH!

It marks a year this month since we first welcomed members to join the FNP. With the first wave of renewals due mid-month, we are pausing the onboarding of new members while we concentrate on the renewals and processing. In addition, we are very excited to be adding some new features and payment options, as well as bringing industry and other experts into the Federation team and introducing a members’ charter. We will be sharing more details soon.

@the_fnp_

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SALONSPOTLIGHTS

Through the

Keyhole Take a peek inside salon setups across the world as Scratch unlocks each door…

JLR Nail Design Location: Indiana, USA

In January 2018, Jordan Ramos was given two weeks’ notice that the salon she’d worked in for a decade was closing its doors. This pushed her to spread her wings and become an independent salon owner. “I found a small room in an old building that was perfect for my needs,” Jordan explains. “I spent three years there and learned a lot about running my own business. However, in January 2022, it was time to expand. “I offer basic manicures and pedicures, CND Shellac™ manicures and CND Plexigel™ services. I also offer seasonal pedicures with relaxing, topical scents,” she continues. “The CND Shellac™ manicure is most popular as my clients love the strength and durability it offers.” Jordan reveals that her client base is varied, and that’s one of her favourite aspects of the job. “I get to speak with different people all day and learn about their interesting lives,” she smiles. “My clients love being in my salon as they can unwind and park their worries for an hour or so. There is more to a nail service than the nail styling; the conversation is also very important.” When deciding on décor, Jordan chose neutral tones of white and grey to keep her vast array of nail shades as an eye-catching focus. “One of my favourite pieces in the salon is my velvet couch, which reminds me of the furniture in my grandparents’ house,” she says. “I have my grandma’s old hat pins and perfume bottles on display to support an inviting feel; intermingling vintage with a modern vibe. I love mixing the old with the new, and incorporating these things into my salon space allows me to show my personality and interests. “I like that my nail table is the central focus of the salon, and that I have a view of the windows from where I sit. The light brightens and refreshes my spirit every time I look up.” jordanramos.setmore.com

/jordanleanneramos

@jlr.naildesign

Do you want to be featured on this page? Scan here to submit your salon or setup

Elite Boutique

Location: Kenilworth, Warwickshire

Tracy Wasley’s initial career plan was to a work on a mobile basis, but she instead decided to convert a trailer-style caravan into a nail salon that stays parked on her driveway. “I intended to move between large businesses so that people could use their lunch hour to get their nails done, but it soon became apparent that there was enough business within my town,” Tracy explains. “I love that I can work from home but not in my house, as this fits around my family life. “When I travelled to look at the caravan, my main hope was that the height would be enough, but being only 5’2”, that wasn’t a problem!” she laughs. “My clients are kept comfortable with the adjustable table and saddle seat inside the space.” When Tracy purchased the caravan, it featured a double bed, sink and gas hob that she swiftly stripped out. “I reupholstered the cushions, added new flooring, moved and painted the cupboards, and re-sprayed the exterior,” she explains. “I opted for a dusky pink and grey colour scheme, with butterflies and petals flowing from the lights. With space a consideration, I kept the décor minimal, but I always ensure my clients are comfy and relaxed with a heated blanket, diffuser, hot and cool fans, and relaxing music. “My caravan has become a talking point around the town, and passers-by comment on its ‘cuteness’ and compliment me on my initiative. As it is parked on my driveway, it advertises itself!” 76 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

www.elite-boutique.co.uk

/eliteboutiquenails

@eliteboutiquenails

Getting down to s s e n i s u b SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Take note as the NATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FEDERATION serves up support & advice for beauty business owners

Flight cancellations: A guide for employers About the NHBF

The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) is the UK’s largest trade body for businesses in the hair, beauty and barbering industries. The National Hair Federation launched its sister trade association for the beauty industry (NBF) in 2018, and the body relaunched as the NHBF in 2019. With Richard Lambert as the chief executive, the association provides specialist business support, advice and backup to hair and beauty businesses. Honing over 75 years’ experience, the not-forprofit organisation aims to be a reliable source of information for you and your business.

“While employees can request to cancel approved annual leave, businesses are not legally required to oblige.” www.nhbf.co.uk @nhbfsocial

/nhbfsocial @nhbfsocial

78 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

ritish holidaymakers have been facing flight cancellations due to staffing issues, air traffic control restrictions and increased demand. Over the Jubilee weekend, hundreds of flights out of the UK were grounded, and over 100 international flights into the UK were also cancelled – most of which originated from across Europe. Unsurprisingly, travellers are finding the situation very stressful. Last-minute cancellations have devastated some people, and others have been ‘abandoned’ at airports. Additionally, the interruption is harming employers. Businesses will be under pressure from demands to reschedule annual leave and find cover for staff who are stranded abroad without a way back into the country.

What does the law say? Employees are not legally entitled to pay if they are unable to work. Although it would be rare, certain contracts might include an employee being paid if they cannot report to work due to reasons beyond their control. Therefore, employers have a couple of options. First, time off for cancelled flights may be claimed as annual leave, provided both parties agree to it and the employee hasn’t used up their yearly holiday entitlement. Although not ideal, at least the team member would be paid for their delay by their employer. The second option is to treat the absence as unpaid leave if the employee chooses not to use any of their holiday entitlement or has none left. It’s important to note that employees do not legally have the right to unpaid leave; therefore, while they may request it to avoid taking a holiday, employers might not want to support or agree to it, given that it is essentially unproductive time.

Beyond these two options, you might also want to check your leave policy to see whether there are other provisions for taking time off.

What about employees whose holiday is cancelled? In addition to employees who are stranded abroad, you may find that your employees never leave the departure lounge. These people might want to postpone their annual leave. While employees can request to cancel approved annual leave, businesses are not legally required to oblige. They also are not required to allow employees to reschedule their vacation time. In the latter scenario, the employee’s request would be subject to the standard restrictions, so elements like job demands and how many other team members are off on that date would be taken into account. It would be considered an unauthorised absence and could result in disciplinary action if the employee rebooked their trip without authorising their request for time off. Despite this, companies must still be aware of the effect on employee relations. Given that these problems are out of the employee’s control and the current difficulty in finding and hiring new staff members, it might be advantageous for you to be as accommodating as you can while juggling business requirements. For further HR queries and membership enquiries, visit www.nhbf.co.uk

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TA K E T H E Q U I Z

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TECH-NIQUE

fit

The perfect Ensure your nail enhancements go the distance with top tips for effectively fitting forms & tips CALLIE ILEY REPORTS Nail enhancements offer the chance to showcase structural knowledge, but if forms and tips aren’t fitted seamlessly, you risk a poor finish and lasting time – and an unhappy client. So what’s involved in the perfect fit? “It’s imperative to fit tips and forms perfectly so that they act as a continuation of the natural nail,” explains Giorgia Capella, The GelBottle educator & brand ambassador. “If tips and forms are not fitted correctly, then the creation of the extension will be a lot harder for the tech, as they will have to correct the Giorgia Capella enhancement by filing, and this adds time to the appointment. Poorly fitted tips can also be incredibly damaging to the natural nail, as they put it under increased pressure.”

Ruth Munro

“Forms and tips must be fitted seamlessly to prevent service breakdown,” comments Magpie Beauty educator, Ruth Munro. “If not fitted correctly, clients may experience discomfort, the tip could pop off, the structure could be unbalanced, and water may be able to get underneath the enhancement, resulting in pseudomonas.”

PRICING POINTER “In my personal business, I have made the decision to keep the price for tip extensions and sculpted extensions the same,” Robyn McCarney says Robyn McCarney, head of education at Izabelle Hammon Ltd. “This way, I can make the decision about what to use based on the evaluation of the client’s nail shape, condition and their lifestyle.” 80 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Gemma Walker

“Regardless of whether you choose to use tips, forms or full cover tips, the most important thing to do is ensure they are tailored to the client’s nails perfectly,” shares nail technician, Gemma Walker of Navy Beauty, Scotland. “This is essential for long-lasting, beautiful nails.”

Choosing tips or forms “Consider the shape, length and width of the client’s natural nails,” adds Ruth Munro. “This will determine whether tips or forms are best suited, as some clients’ nail plates are too wide or short for tips to fit appropriately.” “Techs must note that clients without a free edge may not be able to have forms or sculpted nails, as there is not a free edge to attach the form to effectively,” says Giorgia Capella. “In this instance, consider tips until the natural nail has grown longer. Forms are great to use if you need to extend a nail following a break. “I believe that the choice of tips or forms is also based on the nail professional’s preference and experience. Form fitting can be tricky and therefore new techs may find it easier initially to apply tips while they perfect their product application, apex and structural skills.”

TIPS FOR TIPS!

1. It’s useful to have a variety of tips available, as different clients have different needs.

2. The sizes may not be the same for both hands, so ensure you size each nail individually. Don’t forget to note down the sizes of each finger on the client’s consultation card for their next visit. 3. Be mindful of air bubbles. 4. Apply the tip from the free edge and move it back towards the cuticle to ensure the tip doesn’t slope upwards. 5. Always start short! Clients should begin with shorter enhancements to allow them to adjust to the change.

TECH-NIQUE

TIPS

Soft gel tips

Traditional nail tips are often made from plastic, and are available in a variety of styles, shapes, sizes, colours and finishes with a ‘well’ to mirror the smile line. Each tip must be sized up to each individual finger to ensure the perfect fit.

Katie Barnes

“Most nail tips are manufactured from plastic such as acrylonitrile butadiene styrene monomers (ABS), a durable yet flexible material that can be shaped into a smooth surface that resists yellowing,” comments multi award-winning tech, Katie Barnes, founder of Katie Barnes Academy & Tool Range. “Choosing between well-less, full or half-well tips is down to personal preference, but there can be various benefits for each.”

TYPES OF TIP Well-less tips Well-less tips have no well, meaning they can be placed closer to the free edge than full and half-well tips. “These are fast and versatile as they can be applied anywhere on the nail plate and don’t require blending,” comments Katie Barnes. “They are perfect when creating an enhancement with a smile line.”

TOP TIP “Advise your clients to avoid using their nails as tools to ensure their enhancements last as long as possible.”

Increasingly popular are full cover soft gel tips, which cover the entire surface of the nail and can be applied via adhesive, light cured and soaked off. Soft gel tips have a built in C-curve and apex. “They are a low filing and low Nails by Gemma Walker odour extension system, making them perfect for those who are sensitive using soft gel tips. to the smell of L&P acrylic but want a soak-off system,” Aimee Hamilton reveals. “The speed of application makes them perfect for those who like to spend more time on nail art. “The most important factors in tailoring soft gel tips are ensuring they reach sidewall to sidewall with little pressure, and that the cuticle is flush. Use your file to customise the tips to each nail and make sure you size every nail. “Soft gel tips don’t warp the same way as plastic tips, allowing for a little flexibility in enhancements. They can be customised and are less likely to crack or break, in comparison to plastic full cover tips.” Izabelle Hammon Ltd Medium Coffin Clear Tip Extensions (200pc) £6 + VAT www.izabellehammon.com

Robyn McCarney

Full-well tips Applied to the free edge, full-well tips have a large dip, or a ‘well’, in the tip for the adhesive to be applied. “These have the largest contact point and can be seen to have the best grip,” says Katie Barnes. “The large surface area means the tips are suitable for most clients, but they are particularly good for camouflaging bitten nails and other imperfections because the well can cover up to half of the natural nail plate. Full-well tips require the most blending so are best covered with coloured product.” “Full-well tips are great for beginners as they make the application process easier,” adds Edinburghbased nail pro, Aimee Hamilton. “However, I find that they need a lot of blending to get the best result, which can complicate the process.” Aimee Hamilton

Moira Turner shows a before and after application of soft gel tips on a client.

Artistic Gel On Xtensions Soft Gel Nail Tips £99.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

Half-well tips Similarly to full-well, half-well tips have a crescent-shaped well, requiring less glue to apply than their larger counterpart, while maintaining ease of application. “Half-well tips take up less space on the natural nail, and are quicker to blend because of this,” Gemma Walker says. “These can be better for longer nails.”

Gelish Soft Gel Tips in Medium Round (Box of 550) £29.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com www.salon-services.com

Full cover tips Suitable for most clients, including those with short and bitten nails, full cover tips are akin to press-on nails and require little to no blending and shaping.

Izabelle Hammon Full Cover – Stiletto £6 + VAT (Box of 200) www.izabellehammon.com These semi-flexible tips allow some movement, minimising the risk of breaks or snaps.

INK London Almond Fit Tips £20 + VAT www.inknails.com

The GelBottle Inc DesignEx Pro Nail Tips in Medium Square £29 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

Gelish Soft Gel Tip Adhesive £24.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com www.salon-services.com

>> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 81

TECH-NIQUE

Tihana Besevic shows how to apply PolyGel to reverse tips.

Reverse tips Reverse tips are designed to be used with acrygel-style products. The product is applied on the inside of the tip. “The goal is to form the nail shape inside of the tip, which can then be placed on top of the natural nail, providing a smooth finish that requires minimal extra work,” explains Tihana Besevic, absolute international master educator Tihana Besevic for Crystal Nails. “Reverse tips are typically made from plastic and look like full cover tips. They are reusable and usually come in a box with different sizes, in a square or almond shape.

Carlie Fidgett

“It’s so important to fit the correct size tip,” comments Carlie Fidgett, Luton-based nail pro and home salon owner. “Too big, and the tip will hang over the edges causing lifting. Too small, and the enhancement will pop off.” Carlie Fidgett showcases her nail setup, featuring Soft Gel Full Cover Tips from Nail Order.

PolyGel enhancements by Tihana Besevic using reverse tips.

“It is recommended to use reverse tips that are slightly wider than the natural nail. This allows the side of the tips to cover the sides of the nails completely. Always apply a small amount of product to avoid any excess running toward the cuticle. Stick the tips from the cuticle area towards the edge of the nail, and press them firmly to avoid bubbles. “Reverse tips are suitable for any nail. They are a perfect solution to quickly create a nail enhancement on bitten nails.”

CHOOSING & TAILORING TIPS

“Using the incorrect sized tip can cause issues with retention and hurt your client,” comments Glitterbels ambassador, Liz Bruce. “If the tip is too big, Liz Bruce the overhang can dig into the client’s skin and cause irritation through rubbing and exposure to excess product. If the tip is too small, it can pinch the natural nail and cause onycholysis, due to the trauma to the nail.

The width of the tip should fit from sidewall to sidewall to create the required strength and structure. If the client is between sizes, use the larger size and customise the tip to fit by filing or cutting it. “Using a tip that is too small will prevent the correct structure from being created,” comments Katie Barnes. “It will also leave a vulnerable area of natural nail with no product, that is more likely to suffer damage and cause discomfort to your client, creating a ‘pinched’ feeling. If you can see gaps at the sidewalls or if when pressing the tip to check the fit onto the nail, you can see pressure on the nail plate or the nail tip seems forced, the tip is too small. Oversizing your tip but not tailoring it to fit will also cause problems, by leaving excess tip that will potentially cause your client discomfort or give them something to pick. “Ensure you choose a tip that doesn’t compromise the lateral wall structure. Many tips have a natural curve or arch in the sidewalls which will create a weakness and can be more common in almond-shaped tips. It is important to choose a tip that provides you with a straight sidewall. I often like to use competition-style tips because they are thin, easy to pinch if required and have parallel, straight sidewalls.”

Deep C-curve Some clients have nails with a naturally pronounced C-curve, which can make tip fitting challenging. “Examine the client’s nails and choose a tip with a C-curve that most closely matches the natural C-curve of their nail plate,” suggests Katie. “You can file a deeper C-curve into a nail tip at the smile line area. If you file your tip ultra-thin prior to fitting,you can also shape it more easily into a curve as it will be more flexible.”

Flat nail To fit a flat nail, it is important to have a flexible well. “You can achieve this by cutting a small ‘V’ in the tip, as you may with a nail form,” comments Katie. “You can also use a file to remove the corners on a naturally deep C-curve tip for flatter nail plates.” Glitterama Nail Tips Tapered Square & Almond Bundle (box of 500) £28 inc VAT www.glitterama-nails.com Style 600 Natural Tips (400 box) £7.25 + VAT www.izabellehammon.com Style 600 is recommended for those with flat or only slightly curved natural nails.

82 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

“If I need to size a tip to fit, I will gently buff both sides of the tip equally to ensure it fits perfectly,” Liz notes. “If I over buff the tip, I start again with a fresh new one. “My favourite tips to use are the Square Matte Finish and the Extreme Nail enhancements by Liz Bruce Length tips from Glitterbels, for the quality and flexibility. Having both on hand allows me to offer a variation of shapes and length.”

Glitterbels Square Matte Finish Tips £14.99 inc VAT each www.glitterbels.com

ADHESION

Discomfort and irritation aren’t the only issues that poorly fitted tips can cause. If they aren’t fitted correctly, air bubbles can form between the tip and the natural nail. “Air bubbles are pockets of air that have become trapped under the nail tip and can cause a weakness, as the tip is not fully secured in place,” Robyn McCarney shares. “In the event of an air bubble, it is recommended to remove the tip and start again. When applying tips, ensure the tip fits sidewall to sidewall for the perfect fit.” Gemma Walker applying a tip to the natural nail.

TECH-NIQUE

FORMS

There are many elements that must be correct to get the best enhancement result with nail forms. Perfecting your form fitting technique will mean the difference between a structurally strong nail, and one that has issues. The first step to success with form fitting is choosing the right nail form for the task at hand.

FORM SELECTION

“While the grid system on many forms can seem daunting, it can in fact make them much easier to use and customise, even for beginners,” reveals Katie Barnes. “It acts as a guide for creating the right angles for perfect sidewalls and free edge shapes. “You can get different forms for different nail shapes. However, I think it’s good to purchase a universal form that can be tailor-made to different shapes. Look for forms that have wide wings, which join underneath without having to taper the end in and lose the sidewall structure. If this tapers, you cannot build a true square structure, even if only creating a very short enhancement. Without the correct form fit, you are likely to compromise the structure. “Seek forms that are perforated for easy separation at the base, and always open this to allow the correct fit. When choosing a form for extreme shapes, seek doublethick material that does not crease. “There are several different types of forms: disposable – made of foil, paper, plastic or a mix, and reusable nail forms – mostly metal nail forms, sometimes available in plastic.”

FITTING FORMS

“A form should fit snugly to the nail without any gaps, so that the product cannot seep underneath,” comments HD Pro Nails educator and Scratch Stars award-winner, Kayley Cairns. “If the form is not fitted correctly, it will cause Kayley Cairns weakness in the nail, so the risk of the nail breaking is increased. Product seeping under the nail can also increase risk of overexposure for the client through wet product coming into contact with skin and the hyponychium.

Kayley Cairns showcases a perfect form fit.

KB Form Tailoring Scissors £26.99 + VAT www.katiebarnesacademy.com

“To fit the form snugly, it will usually will require tailoring to the client’s nail. This may involve cutting the form deeper to match the natural nail’s smile line, if the nail doesn’t perfectly match the shape of the form already. It’s important to ensure that the form rests under the nail plate but on top of the hyponychium, not under it.

“The other cut we often make on a form is from the deepest corners of the smile line. This ensures that the lateral sidewalls don’t get in the way of a snug fit. The cut should be made with the scissors pointing downwards at a 45-degree angle. Making this cut should allow the form to pinch closed as narrow as the nail bed. “Make sure that the sticky wings of the form perfectly match when closed. If they close with one side longer than the other, it will create a wonky nail.” “When looking at the fitted form from a side angle, the form must be perfectly straight from the edge. This ensures that the sculpture nail structure is perfect and does not begin curling over as the natural nail grows underneath.” “Sculpting can be a little trickier for nail biters or pickers, as your

Izabelle Hammon Disposable client may not have a free edge, so you will need to get the Nail Forms (500 roll) sculpture form as close as possible to the natural nail,” Robyn £7.25 + VAT www.izabellehammon.com McCarney observes. “Sculpted nails are great for clients who

have broken a nail, or even a corner of a nail, as you can easily rebuild the corner instead of filing all the nails down to match the broken one. “I find sculptures very lightweight and comfortable as you are creating each nail in line with the client’s natural nail, whereas a tip requires a premade selection of shapes and sizes.”

“When fitting forms, I place the Brillbird Double Wings Forms centre piece to the back of the (300 roll) £19 inc. VAT www.brillbirduk.co.uk form under where the free edge of the nail would be to add structure,” Gemma Walker shares. “You can cut this in half before placement if you need this to be straighter at the free edge of the nail. I then like to pre-pinch the form before I attach to the nail. I do this by carefully connecting the two bottom wings perfectly to ensure it will be straight once attached.

CND™ Future Forms £35.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Gemma Walker used forms to create these nail enhancements.

“With the top wings open, I place the form under the nail at an angle and rock it up to fit under the nail snugly,” Gemma adds. “I then close the tabs over on top of the nail when I’m happy with my placement. “If you have a larger nail which doesn’t fit a form, don’t panic! You can cut two forms and merge them together to create a wider one to fit your size.”

Light Elegance Foil Forms (300 roll) £13.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

INK London Stiletto Forms (500 roll) £15.83 inc VAT www.inknails.com

Nail Harmony ProHesion Perfetto Nail Sculpting Forms £5.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com www.salon-services.com

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 83

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

JUST ADD

ABOUT ANNABEL

Annabel Maginnis studied fashion and make-up artistry in London before moving into the nail world in 2015. Her notable creative flair in the field saw her Instagram following skyrocket. Fuelled by momentum, she opened her own salon, Nails By Annabel, in Newcastle, and in 2017, supported by husband, Elliott, the duo launched Glitterbels – a professional range of nail products. In 2021, the business was awarded the Scratch Stars Shooting Star Award based on its growth, popularity and provision of education and products for pros. The Glitterbels education team scooped the Scratch Stars Nail Team of the Year award 2022. Nails by @_jasminesnails using Glitterbels acrylic powders.

Bold pink nails created by @nailsby_gxx using Glitterbels Unbelievabel gels.

www.glitterbels.com /Nailsbyannabelm & /GlitterbelsbyAnnabel @nails_by_annabel_m & @glitterbels /Nailsbyannabelm & /Glitterbels 84 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

r e t t gli Help your business sparkle & nail designs shine with advice & inspo from ANNABEL MAGINNIS, co-founder of Glitterbels MAGINNIS

Seasonal considerations & styles

e’ve had some spells of very hot weather, and while it’s great for leisurely activities, heat makes our job particularly difficult. When using L&P acrylic in the heat, you have to work much faster as the cure time accelerates, so try and keep your nail room cool so you can work more comfortably.

to run wild. Not every client likes the same style, shape or nail length, so have an abundance of designs ready each season for them to choose from.

Marketing matters

When the summer rush is over, it’s important to keep marketing your business. Share your nail art designs and costings for each across social media, so clients have plenty of choice and can see “Let your the breadth of your skillset.

As well as considering surroundings influence your your nail environment, Instagram Reels and nail artistry and allow your think about your TikTok are great client needs in the for showing imagination to run wild. Not every platforms weeks ahead. We’re how you craft your in the throes of client likes the same style, shape bespoke creations. festivals, weddings Whenever you’re or nail length, so have an abundance designing a nail style and holidays and I’m seeing a surge at your desk, why not of designs ready each of dark pink and record a video and season for them to mustard shades, as upload to social media? well as floral details for Clients will love seeing choose from.” nails. Colour blocking and your skills come to life and it animal print is always in style, and will encourage engagement across can be embraced from summer through your profiles. to autumn. Our job affords so much creativity, so Think ahead to the new season and get whether clients choose bright pink nail rusty orange, brown and red shades ready for shades in autumn or neon hues in winter, use. Nail art tends to be more subtle in the what’s great is that we get to have a autumn season, and if you’re struggling to degree of artistic freedom. Not many jobs find inspiration, look to your surroundings. can offer that, so enjoy it! From a phone case to a sunset, fashion and nature, let your surroundings influence your nail artistry and allow your imagination

Annabel x

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recycle metals from your nail business Green Salon Collective serves up advice to support more sustainable working practices

t is likely that your nail businesses disposes of a great deal of metal, particularly aluminium. A large portion of this will be from foil wraps, and your business may even be a dumping ground for empty drinks cans or food tins.

Green Salon Collective (GSC) was founded in 2020 by environmental experts, campaigners and beauty professionals to help member salons in the UK and Ireland to responsibly dispose of their waste. Its recycling, education and accreditation programmes enable salons and other hair and beauty businesses to become true ethical and sustainable businesses. The circle in GSC’s logo represents the circular economy that it is creating within the industry. With each decision it makes, it ponders how it will benefit the industry, environment and/or community. GSC contributes to this circular economy by sending nothing to landfill, working with businesses to ensure that waste is converted into something useful, and using any profits to support local charities and tree planting efforts.

Why is it important to recycle metals? It is extremely costly to extract metal from the earth; costly in terms of financing, but also the impact on our planet and often on people (think of mining conditions in parts of Africa or South America). Virgin aluminium, for example, requires mining bauxite ore, which undergoes energyintensive processing. It is widely cited that recycling aluminium uses at least 90% less energy than primary production. Combine that with eliminating the need for mining and it becomes apparent that recycling is an imperative. The difference in processing recycled as opposed to virgin aluminium can be equivalent to powering the average UK home. Contamination is a common barrier for hair and beauty businesses to recycle metals. Often, recycling service providers collect metals with plastics and glass. If used and thus contaminated foil is put with this collection, it may spoil the chances of some of those materials getting recycled. Because few waste disposal services collect metals separately, salons find they have little choice than to discard their contaminated metals with the rest of their rubbish.

separate metals from all other waste streams. This ensures that contaminants on the metals do not leach onto other materials, which would likely render them non-recyclable. GSC makes use of the infrastructure of a third-party local business, First Mile, to transport metal waste from salons to a sorting facility. We have worked out a system so that this metal is kept separate from everything else and is regularly weighed. We have done this so our members can see the collective impact of our efforts in reclaiming this valuable resource. In our short history as a business, we have already diverted thousands of kilos of metal from ending up in landfill, and from our launch in July 2020 to December 2020, we collected over 1.5 tonnes of aluminium. That is an incredibly large amount of pure aluminium from a limited number of businesses in such a short time, and we know from our partnership with First Mile that this metal was used in the UK to make engine parts. All profits generated from recycling salon metal waste are donated to our affiliate charities, too. If we collect enough aluminium from our members, we may be able to supply this material directly to producers of products like foil wraps. This would mean we have collectively closed the loop on this material for our industry. These are the sorts of projects we will be able to lead when we help yet more hair and beauty businesses to responsibly dispose of their waste.

Responsible disposal solutions When businesses use Green Salon Collective to dispose of their metal waste, they can be assured that it will be recycled. We provide bins to

www.greensaloncollective.com /greensaloncollective @greensaloncollective

Written on behalf of GSC by MeetthefiveRs, www.meetthefivers.com 86 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

ATTENTION! Calling nail pros worldwide to enter...

Online entry

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Why enter? Try your hand at a new type of nail work

Deadline: 31 August @ 5pm GMT

Collaborate with fellow creatives Build your portfolio & attract new clients Create marketing materials for your business

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Shine with

BRANDSPOTLIGHT

Studex

Discover how you can make your profit margins sparkle with the addition of piercing services to your business CALLIE ILEY REPORTS Piercing ears and noses may feel like a world apart from tekking, but expanding your service offering to include piercings can be a profitable point of difference to reach new clients and excite existing ones. Your regulars already trust you with their nail and beauty needs, and with the semi-permanent nature of piercing, it’s an advantageous for them to receive the service from someone with whom they’re comfortable and familiar. Taking only 20 minutes from consultation to aftercare, this speedy service can help transform your beauty business.

Let’s talk about training About Studex

Studex is a California-based piercing equipment supplier founded by Vladimir Reil. With a background in engineering and manufacturing, he saw an opportunity to develop the Studex piercing system – a safe, gentle and hygienic way to pierce. Reil’s family business operates on a global scale, with headquarters in Los Angeles. It boasts over 45 years’ experience in manufacturing high-quality ear piercing equipment and supplies, which have pierced over two billion ears and account for 75% of all earring studs manufactured globally. Supported by knowledgeable regional trainers and a customer service team, Studex prides itself on helping UK and international businesses to make piercing a profitable addition to their service offering.

Did you know?

Studex trains over 1,000 customers annually in the UK and Republic of Ireland. 88 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Established and recognised on a global level, Studex’s faceto-face training is delivered onsite by a regional trainer who educates about the process using Studex systems, as well as the stringent hygiene and infection control practices. Support and guidance is given throughout the piercing journey. Training to suit your business needs is provided free of charge with purchase of the System 75 and Medisept Nose Piercer Starter Kits. Studex also offers training courses for the Studex Plus system in wholesale outlets and runs a successful programme for college courses. Training covers retail opportunities and you will be provided with a variety of marketing assets to promote your piercing services.

Use code SCRATCH to get 10% off Studex Starter Kits throughout August and September!

BRANDSPOTLIGHT

THE SYSTEMS

SYSTEM 75

System 75 is the premium piercing system in Studex’s product portfolio. Designed by Studex engineers as an easy-to-use, hygienic, disposable cartridge system for ear piercing, it offers a quick experience for both the piercer and customer. Earrings are pre-sterilised and loaded with a fine point to make the process comfortable and ensure the safety backs are firmly placed.

BEST-SELLER!

Studex’s most popular earring is the effortlessly glamorous and super sparkly 3mm White Gold Cubic Zirconia.

Aftercare

Training includes a guide to aftercare steps to inform clients and help them care for their new piercing. A recommended retail option for your business is the Studex Aftercare Solution. It promotes accelerated skin recovery and reduces the risk of redness and inflammation post piercing. This solution is pH neutral, working to keep the piercing site clean. The Advanced Aftercare solution adds extra protection to soothe and protect the skin, actively killing bacteria and reducing inflammation, and allows clients to change lobe piercings after three weeks instead of six.

Ready to retail

MEDISEPT NOSE PIERCING

Studex’s hand-pressured Medisept Nose Piercing System offers a safe alternative to needle piercing, with client safety paramount. The patented design makes it easy to use, load and maintain without the need for an autoclave and piercing needles. The system places the jewellery at the time of piercing, and BEST-SELLER! the shape The April Crystal Titanium of the instrument ensures Nose Stud is the most popular there is no contact with the choice for nose piercings. skin. This system comes preThe clear stone is wrapped sterilised and loaded with in silver-toned polished titanium jewellery, with a post titanium or a gold-toned designed to ensure the stud Champagne. remains in place.

Embrace an additional retail opportunity for your pierced clients with Studex’s selection of hypoallergenic post-piercing jewellery. “After the healing period, it is important that customers choose a safe pair of earrings, so look no further than Studex’s Sensitive and Tiny Tips ranges,” comments a spokesperson from the company. The earring ranges include 18ct, 14ct and 9ct gold and white gold, diamonds, titanium, gold-plated and surgical grade stainless steel earrings, manufactured to FDA Medical Grade standards in the US.

Visit the Studex team at Olympia Beauty 2-3 October. Register for your free ticket to attend at www.olympiabeauty.co.uk. www.studexuk.com

Studex UK

@studex_uk SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 89

NAILSCENE

BRAND

WAT C H

Get to know the names behind companies & brands that are attracting attention across the nail & beauty scene Dr Prints & Co After completing a BSc in Dental Technology, Lotte Seymour decided to continue her academic career – but illness paused her studies and she questioned whether she could continue on her chosen path. She rediscovered a passion for art and nails and trained as a nail technician to support herself financially while she got back to an MSc in Biomaterials and Regenerative Medicine. “On completion, I earned a scholarship to complete a PhD, but I had been captivated by the amazing nail community I had discovered on Instagram,” Lotte reveals. “I decided to follow my heart and do what truly made me happy – nails.” In 2020, as her confidence in nail styling grew, Lotte launched the Dr Prints & Co. Instagram account, posting artwork she created that was inspired by the products she used in her nail treatments. “I’ve always tried to supress my creativity and focus on academia, but found this way of life extremely stressful, which didn’t help my health,” she admits. “Dr Prints & Co. very quickly became my entire life and made me happy. The name pays homage to the ‘Dr’ title I decided not to achieve, but choosing nails has been the best decision I have ever made.” Within a few days of the page’s launch, UK distributor, Re:New Beauty, reached out to purchase and sell some of Lotte’s Bio Sculpture-themed prints on its website. “This, along with support from my parents, helped me to buy my first printer and make a real go of Dr Prints & Co. Initially, the range was purely luxury archival art prints for the nail and beauty industry. However, I noticed a need for certain products and services, so I created other ranges, such as the Salon Stationery System; a luxury paper-based and buildable system for salon client records and consultation cards, and the Dr Brands Department, which offers branding services for businesses. “Through running my own salon and talking to fellow nail artists, I became aware that clients often struggle to decide on a nail style,” Lotte continues. “In April, I launched Manicure Roulette: The Game; a collection of 80 cards designed to let fate decide and help make the client’s decision easier and include a fun element.” Dr Prints & Co. has over 1500 products on its website, each hand designed and created by Lotte. She prints all products in-house using specialist printers and papers. “The aim of Dr Prints & Co. is to listen to the needs of nail and beauty professionals and create high quality products that help make running a busy salon easy and enjoyable,” she smiles. “I strive for printing perfection and to reduce waste, printing to order and sourcing papers responsibly. I want to make customers feel valued, supported and appreciated.” www.drprints.co.uk

/drprintsandcompany

@drprintsandcompany

BiBi’s Beauty & Supplies Bargje Boudens began working as a nail technician in 1998 and moved on to sell hair and nail products, before becoming a global educator for the product supplier. “I realised that the brand I sold was missing some products, so after discussions with friends and peers, I launched my own brand, LoveNess, in 2016,” she reveals. Bargje’s product portfolio started with glitters, pigments, a base and a top coat. “After the initial launch, I released 18 gel polish colours. More followed quickly after that, and LoveNess soon offered a comprehensive number of products that are sold worldwide. With LoveNess, techs can create anything; from natural nail treatments to extreme nail styles,” she continues. “I wanted my packaging to be clean, cute and trendy, which is why I have opted for white bottles with a heart and holographic printing.” LoveNess is sold via her company, Bibi’s Beauty & Supplies, and the savvy businesswoman continues to distribute products for other brands. “Selling safe products is a priority for me, so I have direct contact with chemists and natural nail unit specialists. I do a lot of research and take a lot of classes to provide our customers with effective, safe products,” Bargje shares. “Support is always available to our customers, and I love to have personal contact with them so that I always know their needs.” www.bibisbeautysupplies.com 90 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

/BiBisBeautyandSupplies

@bibisbeautyandsupplies

NAILSCENE PINKFISHES Pinkfishes founders, Tina and Annie, met in 2009 when Tina hired Annie to join her salon team, and the pro quickly worked her way up to the position of manager. Annie’s qualifications and experience in lash extensions meant the salon could expand its offering of semi-permanent treatments from ‘Classics’, to also include Russian and hybrid lash extensions, with these styles soaring in popularity amongst their clients. “While working in the salon, we tried and tested many different eyelash products and brands, but observed that the products available were either expensive or had a plastic-like, low quality,” reveals Tina. “We had spotted a gap in the market, and this is how Pinkfishes was born.” Tina sold her salon and she and Annie became business partners, investing time and money into developing their own eyelash brand. “Combining our skills as business owners with beauty and eyelash knowledge, we went on to spend over a year search for suppliers and developing our own brand,” Tina continues. Launched in November 2017 in Tina’s garage, the business grew through attendance at trade shows, sending out samples and leaflets, and creating a social media presence. By December 2018, Pinkfishes had outgrown the garage and Tina and Annie upgraded to a unit in Chelmsford, Essex. “This premises was a lot bigger and allowed us to set up a training academy to offer various eyelash and brow courses. We also hired staff and trainers to help us keep up with growing demand.” The brand offers over 800 variations of lashes, adhesives, liquids, accessories, lash lift products, strip lashes, brow lamination, training courses suitable for beginners to advanced lash technicians, and a subscription service on lash adhesives. “Our product range is always expanding as we stay on top of market trends so that we can offer our customers the latest must-haves,” Tina explains. “Lash trends change over time, so we have to adapt and pre-empt market changes. “As lash artistry develops, more styling techniques emerge and we therefore want to offer our customers the products to be able to offer these styles to their customers. For instance, this year, interest in coloured lashes has peaked so we have added eight colours to our range, as well as pre-fanned coloured lashes that are not widely available on the market.” Over the last five years, Pinkfishes has expanded and moved offices, as well as opened a walk-in store and training school. The lash brand also ships products globally and has most recently started supplying to a number of wholesalers. “We want Pinkfishes to continue to grow. We are currently expanding our training school, offering two new training locations in Kent and Sussex,” says Tina. “We are looking for more distributors to stock our products, so they are available worldwide. As always, we are developing and launching products and are hiring and on-boarding more staff to keep up with the increasing order numbers. This allows us to have more time attending lash shows, conferences and talks to be more present in the lash community.” www.pinkfishes.com /pinkfisheslashco @pinkfisheslash @pinkfisheslashco

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 91

TECHTALK

Dealing with Diverticulitis Luton-based tech, Carlie Fidgett, bravely shares her health challenges & how she manages her nail role alongside living with diverticulitis AS TOLD TO CALLIE ILEY

Carlie Fidgett

arlie Fidgett enrolled onto gel and L&P acrylic nail courses in 2019 and quickly discovered a love for nail art. Following positive responses to her work on social media, she took the plunge and set up a salon from her home, but then the pandemic hit. “I saw it as an opportunity and took advantage of the free time to enrol onto as many online masterclasses and nail art workshops as I could,” Carlie tells Scratch. With the end of restrictions approaching in April 2021, Carlie was excited to re-open her salon. However, 16 days before they were lifted, she was faced with a life-changing health issue. “I became very poorly, feeling a sharp pain in my lower abdomen that quickly became unbearable,” she says. “After being admitted to hospital, I was diagnosed with sepsis and diverticulitis, and told I needed surgery. “I needed to have an ileostomy bag fitted so that my large bowel could recover after having 10 inches of my colon removed. It was a very difficult time and the surgery was followed by several complications, but I finally returned home in June 2021.”

The impact of Carlie’s condition was difficult for her to deal with. She gradually learned to live with the scars from surgery and adjusted to having a stoma bag. “It’s so hard to love yourself when you don’t like what you see in the mirror,” Carlie admits. “I noticed a rapid decline in my mental health and in the months that followed, I became increasingly drained and depressed.”

“I knew a nail career was what I wanted before this awful disease got a hold over me, and I will not let it beat me or define me.” In December 2021, Carlie had her ileostomy bag removed, and after recovering from the operation, she felt ready to take on the world of nails again. “Getting back into nails was extremely hard. I had to make sure I had a break in between each client, as it was still very uncomfortable to sit down in an upright position. I had also lost a lot of my client base, and I was still learning to love myself.”

What is diverticulitis?

According to the NHS, diverticulitis is a digestive condition that affects the large intestine (bowel). Diverticula are small bulges or pockets that can develop in the lining of the intestine as a person gets older. Diverticulitis is the inflammation or infection of diverticula. 92 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Carlie’s resilience and determination motivated her to put in months of hard work to get back to where her business was pre-pandemic, inspired by her life-long dream of being a nail tech. “I am once again fully booked four weeks in advance,” she smiles. “My confidence and selfesteem took a real beating but it’s returning, and my progress reflects this. I knew a nail career was what I wanted before this awful disease got a hold on me, and I will not let it beat me or define me. I love that I get to meet so many beautiful people every day and that I’ve built a relationship with every single client. “Conditions such as diverticulitis, Crohn’s, inflammatory bowel disease and bowel cancer aren’t spoken about enough in young females, especially as diverticulitis is uncommon in women under 50. Living with a stoma or ileostomy bag is difficult to come to terms with, and hard to manage. You would never know who might be going through this as it is a hidden disability. “Being diagnosed with diverticulitis stopped my life for nine months,” she reflects. “I had to adapt my diet and the physical side of recovering was rough, as an ileostomy bag needs to be emptied anywhere between one and 17 times a day. My diagnosis has made me see life in a very different way and has shown me that life is far too short, so if you have a dream, follow it.” @_bycarlie

Nailympia ®

2 - 3 October 2022 Olympia Beauty, London

COMPETITION

LONDON 2022

Compete live in London! 8 categories taking place for the first time in 3 years live in our London arena!

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NA I L s g n i p Clip SCRATCHMEDIA

Hailey Bieber’s delicate pink-glazed donut nail finish for the Met Gala, by Zola Ganzorigt.

OPI products were used to create this stunning minimalist style for Vanessa Hudgens, by Zola Ganzorigt.

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Yin and yang nails have been catching our eye, and we love that nail pros are mixing up the style with various colour combinations. Check out some of our favourite looks…

ola

...

/nailsbyz

Fancy a donut?

Instagram

Instagram.com/letthelordbewithyou

Instagra

CELEB MANI SPOT!

chik

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ari

The ‘glazed donut’ nail trend is currently taking TikTok by storm after Hailey Bieber rocked the look at the Met Gala in May and celebs including actress, Vanessa Hudgens, followed suit. Notable for its sweet and shiny finish, the hashtag #glazeddonutnails has amassed over five million views on the platform. Would you indulge in the look?

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❤

CHLOE RANDALL uncovers the hottest nail topics & tales across the ‘net, TV & social media sites & gets the scoop on celebrity beauty must-haves

Instagram.co

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ilart

Slumber party!

96 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

American TV personality, Scott Disick, took to his Instagram story to share a snap from his daughter, Penelope’s 10th birthday party. Penelope, who he shares with former partner, Kourtney Kardashian, celebrated her milestone with at-home manicures for friends and family amongst personalised pink décor.

The GelBottle Inc in Madonna £14.50 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

Tom Bachik created a bright and bold nail look for film star, Hailee Steinfeld, using The GelBottle Inc’s pink shade, Madonna.

Instagram.co

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SCRATCHMEDIA

Instagram.com/ritaora

CELEB MANI SPOT!

Flying high

The GelBottle Inc in Bluefin £14.50 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

Social media sensation and make-up artist, Mitchell Halliday, sported a stunning rainbow ombré nail design courtesy of @emily__meraki. The talented tech used The GelBottle Inc shades Pink Panther, Coral Touch, Lemonade, Serena, Bluefin and Geisha.

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FIRE, FIRE!

Instagram

Earlier this year, TikTok determined that light blue nails signify that a person is in a relationship, and now a new trend has suggested a hidden meaning. A number of male TikTokers have created a trend where they suggest their girlfriend chooses ‘sky blue French tip 1.50’ nails at their visit to their nail pro. Sky blue is for the colour, French tip is the style, and 1.5 inches is the length. The suggestion is that if the boyfriend responds with an answer that specific, they must be cheating. Many men have given the answer to play a prank on their girlfriend or to see their reaction, with the videos then being shared to TikTok.

ash

Feelin’ blue

Content creator, Lyubov (aka @lybaash), sent her followers into a frenzy after she posted a video of her nail enhancements in flames. The Instagrammer claims she accidentally burned her nail on a candle once and wanted to recreate a video with her nail technician. Warning: do not try this on yourself or clients!

DID YOU KNOW? WEDDED BLISS!

m/tombachik

According to news app, Sportskeeda, MMA fighters paint their toenails to prevent them from cracking or splitting. They believe that a coat of nail polish adds a layer of strength to the toenail, which minimises the danger of the nail being damaged during the fight – while kicking or enduring toe stomps.

Instagram.co

m/bodaciou

s.nails

The butterfly nail art trend, as shown on this month’s cover, is causing a flutter across social media, with the term ‘butterfly nails’ soaring by over 350% on Pinterest. Rita Ora was spotted joining in with this trend on her Instagram Story,, as she showcased this spectacular design by session nail stylist, Michelle Humphrey.

Jennifer Lopez wore Bio Seaweed Gel shade Are You Shore? for her wedding to actor, Ben Affleck. The shade was applied by her go-to manicurist, Tom Bachik.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 97

NAILDESIGNS

@__nailheaven combines popping blue and coral hues with hand-painted starfish in this holiday-ready mani.

Matea Rezo (aka @__arte.m.__) transports us to tropical shores with this nail style featuring golden sand, bright blue sea and coconut trees.

A different seashore scene is depicted on each nail in this detailed design by @gelsby_mb using The GelBottle Inc shades.

Fingernails in Add a dose of sun, sea & sand into your designs this summer with beach-themed nail inspo...

Focus

New York nail pro, @jmoneynails, layers shimmering 3D additions over a pearly base to create a textured shell style.

Want to embody the fun of the beach on nails? Follow @polishedbyalison’s lead, with colourful beach ball-inspired nail art.

@nailmaid_hun brings the beach to life in this look, painting foamy ocean waves and hearts drawn in the sand.

Aberdeen based tech, @i.katie.ru, paints claws on claws, pairing two crab characters with glossy and glittery ocean blue hues.

It wouldn’t be a beach setting without seagulls – and Portuguese tech, @nailcore_studio, captures their characters in this nail style.

Surf’s up! @sarahfrailcnt uses LCN gel polish shades to intricately paint an ocean wave rolling across each hand.

To be in with the chance of seeing your nail snaps on this page, share them with us on social media using #showscratch or email editorial@scratchmagazine.co.uk 98 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Available at all leading wholesalers and www.purenails.co.uk. Tag us

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