Scratch Magazine January 2024 by scratchmagazine

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Issue 249 Managing editor Helena Biggs helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk Publisher Scott Derbyshire scott.derbyshire@scratchmagazine.co.uk Senior news & features writer Rebecca Hitchon rebecca.hitchon@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writer Chloe Randall chloe.randall@scratchmagazine.co.uk Copywriter Callie Iley callie.iley@scratchmagazine.co.uk Art editor Jessica Wilkie jess.wilkie@scratchmagazine.co.uk Group sales manager Ian Archbold ian.archbold@scratchmagazine.co.uk Accounts Lisa Ebbens lisa.ebbens@scratchmagazine.co.uk Co-founder Alex Fox Editorial/Advertising office 1E The Courtyard, Market Square, Westerham, Kent TN16 1AZ

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on ! Let’s not dwell appy New Year en, ok br y ey’re easil resolutions, as th s. al go on s cu ’s fo but instead – let am ek more Instagr Whether you se e th r te en to en followers, are ke n to open your ow nt wa or a en rt’ competition ar sta sh ‘fre a rs fe w year of business, the ne and start writing out a notebook ke ta so t, se mind onths ahead. plans for the m t you sta rted, tions to help ge on six considera up ad Over the re ts. to nis 28 lum Turn to page cohort of co nt from our new ation , nte uc co ed in on se e er m vic ad and im rving up expert se be l ur profits y’l yo t the , s to help boos next 12 months d nail technique an t en em ag an business m goals. and reach your inside this issue. on dates for 2024 titi pe m co try us ce key ind ry, and Nailympia We also announ ards on 1 Februa Aw rs Sta h tc k and ra Sc s – with a fresh loo Entry opens for the ing new location cit ex e from m ct so pe to ex what you can will be heading tch. Read up on rld’s Star ra Wo Sc e in Th s m ge fro pa s dedicated , and explore tip se the as ntests. co ch n su s rso on online and in-pe industry competiti w to prepare for ho on , ttle Po ty Nail Artist, Ka and ur own. Don’t try t they must be yo bu , d your ge lar an u or yo all ’s important to Goals can be sm e; evaluate what you els en ne Wh yo s. er es ev cc th compete wi ps to shoot for su ste ry ssa ge 86, ce pa ne ke the out them! On business and ta m by shouting ab the techs te ra m fro leb ce les , ta nes and share reach your goals ys. of marking milesto wa e t nc en rta fer po dif im in ts we share the ted achievemen ora em m m co have and brands who ws an d ar tic les , int er vie su pp or t yo u wi th to e w us on llo inu fo nt d co an ll Sc ra tc h wi sta y su bs cr ibe d u yo re su e ak an d loo k tm ac h yo ur go als op po rtu nit ies ; jus it to se e yo u re wa n’t ca We so cia l m ed ia. es se s gr ow . hin g yo ur bu sin fo rw ar d to wa tc Until next month,

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COVER CREDITS

Images shown courtesy of Light Elegance Shades are All Eyes On Me, Bravo, Everyone’s A Critic, She’s A Star, Standing Ovation and Tough Act To Follow from The Broadway Show Glitter Gel collection. Available via www.lightelegance.co.uk

Nails: Jojo Wickens Model: Leila Monroy Photography & editing: Jojo Wickens Nail products used are available via www.lightelegance.co.uk

www.scratchmagazine.co.uk www.nailympia.com The publisher of Scratch magazine has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the information detailed in Scratch is correct at the time of going to print, and while every care is taken to avoid inaccuracies, the publisher does not accept responsibility for any errors or omissions from any information within this or previous editions. © 2024 SEED PUBLISHING LTD

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Contents JANUARY 2024

FEATURES 18 24 28 34 42 52 56 68 76 86

In Their Element

Check out the nail pros behind this month’s cover image, whose creative chemistry resulted in a striking shot .

5 Trends To Note For 2024

Step into the new year with a focus on treatment trends, the impact of tech & colours set to make a splash

Prepare For Progress

Set yourself up for a successful year ahead with six ways to boost your profile & enhance your business

How To Nail The French

Perfect the classic pink & white French & add on-trend twists with product picks & advice for users of all systems

Nail Nurture

An award-winning pro shares advice on natural nail maintenance & essentials to keep nails in optimum condition

Temperature Talk

Discover the impact of temperature on nail products & practical pointers to help them work at their best

Talons & Tails

Join team Scratch on a five-day adventure to Shepreth Wildlife Park for nail education & animal experiences

Polishing Up On Self-Care

Enhance wellbeing & ensure a good work-life balance with 10 top tips for mind & body

What’s In A Name?

Increase your visibility with advice on choosing treatment & business names that make an impact

Cause For Celebration

Explore the importance of celebrating achievements, such as salon anniversaries or social media follower milestones

80 REGULARS 10 20 22 30 44 46 50 54 62 64 66 72 74 78 80 88 90

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Autumn Budget: 5 points to note for nail & beauty pros App launches to aid ingredient transparency of cosmetic products European personal care association, Cosmetics Europe, has launched the COSMILE Europe app to drive transparency and improve consumers’ knowledge of cosmetics ingredients. The app provides free, practical information related to almost 30,000 cosmetics. Users can scan an ingredients list on a product or perform a manual ingredient search to track and avoid ingredients they are allergic to. Available in eight languages, the app provides a convenient entry point to the COSMILE Europe database, launched in February 2023 with the support of the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA), a UK trade association for companies involved in making, supplying and selling cosmetics and personal care products. The database helps consumers to understand why certain ingredients are used in their cosmetics and personal care products, which properties they have and more. The ‘Insights’ section of COSMILE Europe’s app also answers frequently asked ingredients questions and shares how UK and EU legislation ensures products are safe. The app reflects the cosmetics industry’s commitment to “providing information on the ingredients in cosmetic products in a simple and easily accessible way,” notes John Chave, director general of Cosmetics Europe. “With the COSMILE Europe app, and its new ways of searching and tracking ingredients, accessing this information has never been easier. We hope this tool will contribute to helping European citizens choose their cosmetic products.” The COSMILE Europe mobile app is available for free via Google Play and App Store.

10 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Chancellor of the Exchequer, Jeremy Hunt, presented the Autumn Budget Statement to parliament on 22 November, declaring Britain’s economy as ‘back on track’. With goals to reward hard work, here are the measures worth noting for employees and self-employed workers: 1. National Insurance contributions cut by 2% National Insurance will be cut from this month, benefitting 27 million workers. Workers that currently earn up to £50,200 previously paid 12% in National Insurance, and will now pay 10%. 2. Rise in the National Living Wage The minimum wage will rise from £10.42 to £11.44 per hour from April for those aged 21 and above. The minimum wage for those aged 18 to 20 will rise by £1.11 to £8.60 per hour. 3. State pension to rise by 8.5% From April, the state pension will rise by 8.5%: from £203.85 per week to £221.20 per week (£11,502.40 per year). 4. Tax break for business investment The chancellor has extended the temporary tax break that allows businesses to offset any investments. Worth £11bn a year, this break allows firms to pay less corporation tax and was set to expire in 2026, but will now be in place permanently. 5. Business rates relief extended Mr. Hunt extended a 75% discount on business rates for qualifying small businesses in the retail, hospitality and leisure sectors, that have struggled to bounce back after the pandemic. To determine whether your business is eligible for this relief, contact your local council. For self-employed workers, the chancellor has abolished class 2 National Insurance contributions and reduced the class 4 NI contributions from 9% to 8%. Commenting on the Autumn Statement, Caroline Larissey, chief executive of the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) says: “We’re delighted that the Chancellor has responded to our calls for a continuation of the 75% retail business rates discount. Along with cuts to National Insurance, this Caroline Larissey will give welcome relief to businesses struggling to cover overheads. Sector recovery has been slow and steady since last spring, and many businesses are still battling to clear Covid debts. “With £50m allocated to apprenticeships in key growth sectors, we look forward to hearing more about how the hair and beauty sector will be supported. Employer incentives to support education and training, particularly apprenticeships, are desperately needed to ensure the future talent pipeline to our vibrant, creative and innovative sector. Given rising wage costs in the spring, sector employers, mostly small and micro businesses, won’t be rushing to take on new staff without additional support.” www.gov.uk

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Nail NATION TREATWELL APPOINTS CEO TO STREAMLINE SALON & CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE VIA TECHNOLOGY Digital marketplace expert, Claire Davenport, has been appointed as CEO of Treatwell, a platform that supports beauty and wellness treatment bookings across Europe. Davenport, who has served as CEO of small-business marketplace, Not On The High Street, and on the board of global consumer reviews website, Trustpilot plc, hopes to ‘lead Treatwell into a new era Claire Davenport of growth and innovation’. The Cambridge University graduate is managing a group of over 800 employees across more than 13 countries to lead Treatwell’s digital transformation. The strategy is to invest in and enhance Treatwell’s product and technology in order to fuel growth, and renew the company’s commitment to its online platform, where 60,000 salons meet the beauty needs of users. Davenport comments: “I am thrilled to be joining Treatwell at this pivotal moment. The opportunity to make beauty services more accessible and convenient for people, and support salons’ prosperity, aligns with my drive to simplify and streamline everyday life – for both consumers and businesses – through the power of technology.” www.treatwell.com

Salon System delivers brow masterclass via College Kits Direct collaboration Beauty product & training supplier, Salon System, collaborated with College Kits Direct, which provides kits to 150 colleges and academies in the UK&I, to present a brow masterclass session to students. Salon System educators, Lisa Stone and Ruth Atkins, hosted ´the one-hour virtual session, which focused on RefectoCil Custom Colour brow tint. Attended by over 60 guests, Lisa and Ruth shared how to create a RefectoCil Custom Colour brow tint for clients. Lisa highlighted the importance of a thorough consultation, evaluating skin tone and hair colour to create a harmonious brow tint. Ruth followed with a demo on how to bleach brows, and the pair showcased the RefectoCil Intense Brow(n)s range. “Working with College Kits Direct is an ideal opportunity to reach students early in their career, so they can receive first-hand education about our products and how best to use and market the treatments,” comments Kathy Holroyd, marketing director at Salon System. “This session focused on RefectoCil, which was very well received. We’ve also hosted masterclasses on our Gellux and Just Wax Expert ranges and will be continuing this collaboration in 2024.” To attend a free College Kits Direct student masterclass, visit www.collegekitsdirect.com www.salonsystem.com

12 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Glitterbels nail brand expands distribution to US market Glitterbels, the professional nail brand co-founded by Newcastle-under-Lyme nail artist, Annabel Maginnis, and husband, Elliott Maginnis, in 2018, has launched a distribution headquarters in the USA. The brand has opened a pink-coloured warehouse in Atlanta, Georgia, packed with products from the Glitterbels portfolio – including its Hema-free Builder-bel Gels, coloured acrylic powders, tools, accessories and Unbelievabel Gel. The aim is to support professional nail techs in the US with faster shipping of products with no import tax, and speedy customer service response times. “Product innovation, trend-led colours and creating beauty must-haves is our driving force,” Annabel comments. “Colour is our passion: from the catwalk to street style, nature and lifestyles, we want to inspire positivity and confidence.” The US launch was celebrated with an intimate mini masterclass for professionals at HQ with Annabel. ^ Attendees enjoyed Champagne and a glimpse at the brand’s product offerings. www.glitterbels.com

UK hair & beauty industry revenue projected to reach £4.6bn by 2029 Salon and spa software provider, Vagaro, has analysed data from IBISWorld, a global industry-market research database, which projects that revenue in the hair and beauty sector will reach £4.6 billion over the next five years. This growth is expected despite the rising cost of living, and after industry revenue saw a period of decline during the pandemic. Vagaro surveyed UK hair and beauty professionals to understand how inflation has impacted their businesses, and 85% of respondents said they have raised their prices due to inflation. Almost half (49%) of respondents said their wholesale costs have increased by more than 10%, and 39% have accessed their savings to ensure growth and protect the high level of experience they provide to customers. Haircuts, colour and highlights remained the most popular services for consumers over the past year, accounting for 55% of annual industry revenue, while nailcare services come in next at 16.4%, followed by product sales at 14.9%. Vagaro brand partner & globally-renowned beauty expert, Val Garland, comments: “Consumers are more likely to spend money on a beauty experience in the current economic climate, because they want to be made to feel special. They want the real-life experience of luxury and pampering that one can only really get in a physical beauty environment.” The survey also revealed that while some respondents have cut back on products and inventory, they have implemented promotional communication methods via social media, text and email marketing, and by offering deals and discounts to keep their customers engaged. www.vagaro.com

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Nail NATION WINNERS ANNOUNCED IN TO STILETTO & BEYOND COMPETITION Nail competition organisation, Nailympia, introduced the To Stiletto & Beyond category to its London contest at the end of November 2023, recognising nine winners across three divisions. “After noting that the Invent a Nail Shape competition was proving challenging for judges and creating confusion for competitors, it was necessary to relook at this competition and revitalise it,” reveals Alex Fox, global director of Nailympia Competitions. “It was clear that very few entries across the globe have been actual shape and structure nail inventions since introducing this competition, however we saw stunning nails crafted for this category.” Opting for a solution-oriented approach, it was decided to take all the entries that had been submitted, scored and awarded for Invent A Nail Shape at Nailympia London 2023, and move them into a new competition. The criteria was reformed, the four judges from the original competition were invited to re-score the entries and a fifth judge was added, giving the competition 13 criteria points. Meet the winners: DIVISION 1 1st – Nozi Brandel – Israel 2nd – Mei Kwan Leung – Australia 3rd – Tatiana Solovyeva – Russian Federation DIVISION 2 1st – Mariana Costirco – UK 2nd – Natalia Cibizova – Italy 3rd – Lyubov Tudakova – Russian Federation DIVISION 3 1st – Mino Vo – UK 2nd – Tatyana Texter – Germany 3rd – Charisse Cassie – UK Division 1 – 1st place: Nozi Brandel, Israel.

Division 2 – 1st place: Mariana Costirco, UK.

Division 3 – 1st place: Mino Vo, UK.

For more information about Nailympia Competitions worldwide, visit www.nailympia.com

NAIL & BEAUTY BITES

The global beauty oils market was valued at US $5.74 billion in 2023 and is forecasted to reach US $10.28 billion by the end of 2033, according to a study by Fact.MR. 14 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

In celebration of its new management, Aesthetique Clinics in North London, which uses Cetuem skincare products, hosted a party featuring cake and a ribbon cutting. In attendance was Miss London 2023 & the face of Cetuem cosmetics, Natasha Beresford. www.aesthetic.co.uk / www.cetuem.com

Nail pros recognised in NHBF Top 100 Influencers Index 2023 Esteemed names from the hair and beauty industry gathered at St. John’s Church, Hyde Park, London, for the National Hair & Beauty Federation’s Top 100 Influencers Index event. The NHBF Index recognises industry professionals who use social media to influence, educate and innovate, and saw hundreds of nominations for 2023, which were analysed based on independent data metrics. Nail pros in the 2023 Index are: • Jennifer Rose of @siren_beauty_x in 98th place. • Grace Yardley of @nailsbygracey in 89th place. • Salon System expert, Jaz Moger of @paintbyjaz, in 84th place. • Protein Formula brand ambassador, Robbie Tomkins of @robbietomkins, in 61st place. • Head of education for Lecenté, 84th place in the Theresa Foddering of Index: Jaz Moger. @thenaildresser, in 47th place. • Magpie Beauty educator, Amanda Byrne of @amanda_byrne_nailartist, in 22nd place. • Session nail stylist, Michelle Humphrey of ´ @nailsbymh, in 18th place. • Scratch Stars Social Media Star of the Year finalist 2023, Charlotte Cliff of @charsgelnails_, in 16th place. • The GelBottle Inc global brand ambassador, Harriet Westmoreland of @harrietwestmoreland, in 11th place. • Scratch Stars Social Media Star of the Year 2023, Kirsty Meakin of @kirstymeakin, in 5th place. NHBF president, Amanda Lodge-Stewart, presented the top spot to hair stylist & haircare expert, Chlöe Swift of @chloeswiftstylist. “The NHBF Top 100 Influencer Index represents a celebration of innovation, talent and dedication within the hair and beauty sector,” comments Caroline Larissey, chief executive of the NHBF. “These influencers not only champion professionalism; they have transformed trends and significantly contributed to raising the profile and advancement of our sector, inspiring others to push boundaries and strive for greatness.” www.nhbf.co.uk

Be Creative has expanded its product offering, unveiling one stroke paints in 10 vibrant hues, developed in collaboration with Scratch Stars Ultimate One Stroke Artist, Rebecca Isaac. To accompany the launch, the brand has also introduced The Pink Brush, a size 2 slanted brush made from 100% Kolinsky sable hair. www.becreativenails.com

Alice Chang, founder & CEO of beauty tech firm, Perfect Corp, has been named as Forbes Asia’s Power Businesswoman of 2023. Alice is among 20 female business leaders across a host of sectors noted in the list. www.forbes.com

PANTONE UNVEILS PEACH FUZZ AS COLOR OF THE YEAR 2024 Global colour authority, Pantone, has revealed Peach Fuzz as its Color of the Year 2024: a ‘compassionate and nurturing soft peach shade, conveying a heartfelt kindness’. A shade has been chosen annually since 1999 to support colour decisions for brands and manufacturers, and the hue supports trends across fashion, beauty and product design. It also helps express the moods and attitudes of consumers. Of the colour, Leatrice Eiseman, executive director for Pantone Color Institute, comments: “A cosy peach hue softly nestled between pink and orange, PANTONE 13-1023 Peach Fuzz brings belonging and inspires recalibration and an opportunity for nurturing, conjuring up an air of calm.” For beauty, this year’s Pantone may influence eyeshadow, blush, lipstick and nail shades – as well as the packaging of these products. Of the shade, Samantha Sweet, CCO of Sweet Squared, comments: “Peach Fuzz caters to various skin tones, and its versatility makes it a beauty essential.” Salon System expert, Jaz Moger of Paint By Jaz, adds: “Peach Fuzz is a beautiful, subtle colour that offers a feeling of sweetness and romance. Apply solo to nails, or blend with earthy tones as desired.” Scan here to view Scratch’s pick of nail products and designs in this year’s Pantone www.pantone.com

DATES FOR THE DIARY 7 January 2024

Nail Order’s Sunday Service Event Product provider, Nail Order, is hosting a networking event in Birmingham. It will feature talks from industry experts, workshops and interactive experiences, followed by a party in the evening and performance by Ru Paul’s Drag Race’s Black Peppa. Tickets are available via www.nailorder.co.uk 1 February-10 March 2024

Scratch Stars Awards: Entry open Showcase your excellence and enter up to two categories in the 12th Scratch Stars Awards, which recognises nail talent in the UK&I. There are 18 categories to choose from, and the first stage requires submission of an online form. Head to www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/scratchstars to find out more. 22-24 March 2024

Nailympia Germany Keen to compete? Register for the seven Nailympia Germany online categories by 1 February, and 11 arena categories by 29 February. The arena competitions and results announcement will be held at the BEAUTY Düsseldorf trade exhibition in Germany. Register via www.nailympia.de

Research reveals the royal women with the most talked-about beauty routines Beauty and wellness marketplace, Fresha, has analysed the number of online articles that mention the beauty routines of female members of the royal family. These articles have been combined and ranked by the MuckRuck platform to discover which royal women had the most talked-about beauty routines online over the last 12 months. The late Queen had 63,693 article mentions regarding her beauty routine, including references to her make-up, skincare and haircare. Renowned for her bright lipstick and nude nail polish, articles referencing the late Queen’s make-up reached 9,522: the highest of any of the royal family. Ranking second is Meghan Markle, with 58,377 beauty-related articles. In third place is Princess Diana, followed by Kate Middleton and Queen Camilla. Sarah Ferguson and The Queen Mother had the least amount of articles related to their beauty routines, with 5,950 and 5,827 articles respectively. A spokesperson for Fresha comments: “It’s common for people to be interested in the beauty routines of public figures like the royals, as they often set trends and influence beauty standards across the globe. What may be surprising, however, is that the late Queen Elizabeth II takes the top spot, beating the likes of Kate Middleton and Meghan Markle. “Despite being crowded by the hectic duties of a monarch for 70 years, the late Queen was known as a style and beauty inspiration to many.” www.fresha.com Nail Camp 2023 invited 45 nail technicians and 30 guests to a four-day educational event at sea, with stops including Puerto Vallarta, Mazatlan and Cabo San Lucas in the Mexican Riviera. The cruise featured a range of nail-related activities and a trip on a private boat near Puerto Vallarta. www.nailcamp.org

Piercing provider, Studex, raised over £5,500 for the MND (Motor Neurone Disease) Association through trade show event piercing in 2023. The annual Studex Golf Day, held at Greetham Valley Golf Course, Rutland, raised over £20,000 for the We are All Making a Difference charity, and the company supported piercing partner, KG Salon in Barton Le Clay, with an event to raise money for Brain Tumour Research. www.studexuk.com

Izabelle Hammon marks gel product milestones Professional nail product supplier & training company, Izabelle Hammon, is commemorating 12 years of Pro Base & Build: a builder and sculpting gel available in jar or bottle-and-brush options. The clear product adds strength, builds shape and can be used to extend nails. It cures in 10 seconds and is designed to prolong the longevity of colour gel systems, while offering user-friendly application. No base coat or primer is required, and those already qualified in sculpting gel techniques do not need further training. It offers a wear time of up to six weeks and can be infilled: simply remove existing gel or gel polish colour, rebalance the Pro Base & Build and apply fresh colour on top. Originally called iZ Gel, this builder gel in a bottle was rebranded to Pro Base & Build when Izabelle Hammon Ltd launched Pro Colour, a one-step gel system. The colour portfolio is complemented by Gel & Go, a Hema-free gel polish available in over 100 shades, which is celebrating its fifth anniversary. www.izabellehammon.com SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 15

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COVERSTORY

In their Element

The creative chemistry between nail pros, Jojo Wickens & Leila Monroy, has sparked a stunning series of snaps – including this month’s cover image. HELENA BIGGS discovers more about the photo shoot

hen nail skills, determination and creativity come together, a magnificent reaction takes place – forming an exciting result that dazzles and delights. And that’s what happened when Light Elegance UK distributors, Jojo Wickens and Leila Monroy, joined forces to produce a series of images to celebrate the brand and ignite passion amongst its users. The talented nail professionals have been distributing the brand in the UK & Ireland since August 2023, and were keen to craft a visual embodiment of Light Elegance, emphasising its focus on chemistry. “Every Light Elegance product is meticulously formulated and manufactured at the brand’s headquarters in Oregon, USA, by Jim McConnell and his team of chemists,” shares Jojo. “Owing to our experiences as salon technicians, we wanted to create nail styles reflective of those worn by salon clients.” The duo acquired props including test tubes and a cylindrical flask, and selected a series of backdrops for the photos. Jojo travelled from Exeter to Edinburgh the day before the scheduled shoot, which took place in Leila’s salon, The Gelly Bar: the headquarters for Light Elegance UK. “This arrangement provided an ideal setup, offering ample space for the photo shoot area and the nail desk, and easy access to the products we required throughout the 18 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Leila Monroy & Jojo Wickens

Light Elegance Super Shiny Top Coat £21.95 + VAT

Light Elegance Lexy Line Building Gel in Ideal Pink (50ml) £78.95 + VAT

COVER CREDITS Nails: Jojo Wickens Model: Leila Monroy Photography & editing: Jojo Wickens

Light Elegance ButterBling in Pink Champagne £27.95 + VAT

COVERSTORY STEP-BY-STEP: Cover nails Step 1 Prep the nails and remove shine. Cleanse using the LEpro Cleanser on a LEpro Cleansing Wipe before applying Airbond (primer), followed by Tack (bonder). Cure for 30 seconds in the LEDdot Lamp.

Step 2 Apply a base slip layer of Lexy Line Building Gel in Ideal Pink to nails using the #4 Oval Bling Brush. Cure for 60 seconds. Step 3 Apply a layer of Lexy Line 1-Step Building Gel in Ideal Pink over the enhancements and build structure, with support over the apex and stress areas. Cure for 60 seconds and remove the inhibition layer using LEpro Cleanser on an LEpro Cleansing Wipe.

“We wanted to keep the props and background minimal, so the nails could retain focus.”

Step 5 Use the Gel Polish Bling Brush to apply a thin coat of ButterBling in Pink Champagne to the nails. Cure for 30 seconds.

Jojo first crafted almond-shaped enhancements with a French finish on Leila, who assumed the role of hand model. By midday, they began their first round of shooting. “Leila found herself lying on the floor for many photos, which was necessary to achieve the desired hand placement from the bottom of the frame. Managing her hands and fingers added an amusing touch, as it can be difficult to get the pose and positioning just right; a familiar challenge for anyone who has grappled with clients and their rebellious fingers!”

“We wanted to keep the props and background minimal, so the nails could retain focus. Our intention with this series of images is to spotlight beautiful nails, ensuring they take centre stage without distraction.”

Step 4 Finish file the nails using the 180-grit side of the 100/180 Lexy File. Follow with the Foamie buffer to smooth the nail in preparation for colour application.

day,” Jojo continues. “Since we handled the entire photo shoot ourselves, we focused on preparing the photo area in advance so that, once the nails were finished, we could seamlessly transition into the shooting process.”

With a series of images captured, Jojo and Leila transitioned to the second nail look: a sparkling overlay of Pink Champagne ButterBling atop the existing enhancements. “By the end of the day, we had amassed approximately 250 images, providing a diverse pool for selection,” shares Jojo. “The experience was a delightful departure from our usual day-to-day routine, and I relished the opportunity to push my photography skills beyond their ordinary boundaries.

Step 6 Apply a second coat of Pink Champagne and cure for 30 seconds. Finish with an application of Super Shiny Top Coat and cure for 60 seconds. Allow the top coat to cool for 30-60 seconds after curing, then cleanse the inhibition layer using the LEpro Cleanser on an LEpro Cleansing Wipe. Finish with LEpro Cuticle Oil.

EXCLUSIVE OFFER! Save 10% on Light Elegance products throughout January with code SCRATCH. www.lightelegance.co.uk

www.lightelegance.co.uk @lightelegance.uk

/lightelegancenailsuk @lighteleganceuk SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 19

NEWPRODUCTS

Entity Gel Nail Art Soak Off Striper Gel Collection £39.99 + VAT www.beautybossherquarters.co.uk Get creative on nails with this six-piece Brights & Essentials Striper Gel Kit from Entity. Ideal for pairing with Entity Colour Couture Soak Off Gel Polish, the shades can elevate nail enhancements and offer vivid colour. The striper brush has a thin taper to allow for precise linework and fine details. Shades included are White, Black, Red, Bright Blue, Bright Pink and Bright Yellow.

The Navy Recover & Protect Kit £45.99 inc VAT www.navyprofessional.com Support the recovery of natural nails and create a smooth, even foundation for nail polish application with this kit, comprising Base, Vitamin and Gloss: three of six new formulas in Navy Professional’s Bare Collection. Developed in Italy, Base is enriched with biotin to support damaged nails, Vitamin features vitamin E to aid natural nail health, and Gloss offers resistance, strength and a high shine.

List THE HOT

IT! IGN DES r Gel

Scratch scours the industry for the latest nail & beauty products to captivate clients & lend a helping hand to your services

T NU DO

Sienna X Exfoliate Scrub £7.50 + VAT/RRP £14.99 www.sienna-x.co.uk Elevate a mani or pedi treatment with the Exfoliate Collagen & Melanin Boosting Scrub, which includes hydrating ingredients, hyaluronic acid, glycerin and aloe vera. It gently exfoliates skin to reveal a brighter complexion and features the refreshing scent of lemongrass and ginger.

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HD Design It! Colour Gel 2024 Trends Collection £12.49 + VAT each www.hazeldixonnails.com Embrace cool tones and plenty of sparkle, as Hazel Dixon Nails presents eight Hema-free and Di-Hema-free Colour Gel shades to suit this year’s trends. The file-off Design It! formula can be used with HD Build It! Pro to create beautiful inlayed designs, as a full colour over artificial nails or as a gel paint for nail art and one stroke designs.

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CND™ Perfect Color Sculpting Powders £38.45 + VAT each www.sweetsquared.com For the first time in over 15 years, CND™ has added shades to its sculpting powder portfolio. Presented in updated packaging, the powders can be mixed to create custom blends, and used with CND™ Sculpting Liquids to offer resilient enhancements and craft extreme shapes.

NEWPRODUCTS

Light Elegance The Broadway Show Collection in P+ Gel Polish £77.95 + VAT www.lightelegance.co.uk Bring in the new year with the rich and dramatic shades in Light Elegance’s The Broadway Show collection, inspired by the emotions of the theatre. The Hema-free P+ Gel Polish soak-off range features six glitters and six standout colours (pictured), including the dark denim blue; Dress Rehearsal, and vivacious purple shimmer; So Dramatic. Shades are available individually for £14.95 + VAT.

Artistic Gel On Xtensions Soft Gel Tip Adhesive £24.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk This bonding gel aids adhesion of Gel On Xtensions Tips by creating an airtight seal. It boasts a thick viscosity for easy control during application and great durability. The convenient jar means every drop of gel can be used and offers enough product for 20-25 full sets.

Metal Keysie £30 inc VAT (5pk)/RRP £9 each www.keysieco.com Encourage clients to protect their nail enhancements by using the handy Keysie to open keyrings, cans and more. The product, which has been popular in plastic, is now available in metal and doubles as a bottle opener. It hooks onto keyrings and is the perfect retail item for nail clients.

LP Salon Scent Starter Kit £145.99 + VAT www.lpnails.com Enhance your clients’ salon experiences and create a calming work ambience with this digital room diffuser and five luxurious LP scents. Controlled by a smartphone, the system can sit discreetly in the nail space and subtly diffuse scent up to 600 sq ft. The five 10ml scents include LP Scent 1; a blend of amber, violet and sandalwood, and LP Scent 4; a fresh, citrus fragrance with notes of bergamot, lemon and lemongrass.

Puromist Spray £7.48 + VAT/RRP £14.95 www.louellabelle.co.uk This gentle yet powerful formula cleanses 99.99% of microbes, including bacteria, fungi, spores and viruses. Ideal for sanitising tools and equipment, Puromist is pH balanced and can also be used to cleanse a client’s hands, feet and face before a nail or beauty treatment. It is available in 100ml and 250ml sizes, and as a box of 30 wipes.

The Nail Lab Ring Palette £12.50 inc VAT www.tnluk.co.uk Nail artists: access the shades you need for a design quickly and easily by wearing this handy accessory on your thumb or ring finger. Made from lightweight steel and coated in black plasma, paints can be cleaned off the palette after use with alcohol or acetone, without causing damage to the coating.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 21

p o o c s

SCRATCHSOCIAL

THE SCRATCH

Top (L-R): Helena Biggs, Jess Wilkie Bottom (L-R): Chloe Randall, Rebecca Hitchon, Callie Iley

The Scratch team offers an insight into its antics & unveils events & products from the nail & beauty realms

In the

MAIL... Check out the nail & beauty goodies in Scratch’s postbag this month…

Protein Formula For Nails popped its Enriched Hand Cream in the post to soothe our dry winter-affected hands, and included its Crystal File Trio Set, which features medium and mini crystal files and a crystal cuticle tool in a handy travel case. Available via www.protein-formula.com The team got its hands on The GelBottle Inc’s Flashing Pigments: 10 pots of sparkle that elevate nail looks by reflecting under light. They can be applied over top coat, encapsulated or used to create a sugar effect. Available via www.thegelbottle.com

What we’re wearing...

Helena has chosen a deep purplypink gel polish overlay that’s packed with dazzling glitter flecks, courtesy of Rebecca Ellis (@beautyby__beck) in Dartford, Kent.

Chloe is sporting a classic, chic French manicure courtesy of nail tech, Aimee Louise Searles of Truly Beauty in Tonbridge, Kent.

A FOND FAREWELL Last month, we sadly said goodbye to news & features writer, Chloe Randall, who has moved on to explore new opportunities following three years at Scratch. We miss her already, but thank her for her dedication, passion and enthusiasm and wish her the very best. 22 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Out and ab

out

e the rty to celebrat Inc held a pa e ttl Bo n, el io G ct e Th il colle rès Ski winter na s and a he lis launch of its Ap po l two cat-eye ge s ise pr m three co ts, h whic leaf produc , two metallic me ro ch o magnetic tool tw and l polish shades ed to ad he , shimmering ge na le He aging editor, that was pigments. Man on’s West End nd Lo in e nu and mingled , Obica, a ve nd nter wonderla wi a to in ed transform snaps of the cers, who took les. with nail influen wine and nibb d le ul enjoyed m products and

Rebecca with @thenaildresser’s Theresa Foddering, who was 47th in the Index, and Theresa Cientanni, Lecenté’s projects & partnerships manager.

Senior news & features write r, Rebecca, Hair & Beauty attended the Federation (N National HBF) Top 100 event at St. Jo Influencers In hn’s Church, dex 2023 London. The professionals Index recogn who use soci ise s industry al m edia to influen innovate. Sc ratch Stars So ce, educate and cial Media St 2023 & esteem ar of the Year ed nail artist, Kirsty Meakin, fifth place, an was awarded d hair stylist, Chlöe Swift, spot. Discover took the top the nail names in the Index he re

bar, Oche The Strand, Rebecca headed to London darts onships Media Day, for the PDC World Darts Champi g professional darts eerin pion where she interviewed ut her love for abo , MBE rock Sher n player, Fallo ts and the process sporting nail looks at dart even darts names in ous fam r behind her styles. Othe ael Smith and Mich r, Taylo Phil ded inclu attendance the wing Michael van Gerwen, and follo nship draw event, the World Darts Champio Scratch’s d Rea e. venu the at e took plac here interview with Fallon Sherrock MBE

Rebecca with Fallon Sherrock MBE.

Phil Taylor

The Scratch team celebrated Christmas and marked the end of 2023 with a trip to London. We enjoyed lunch at Mrs Fogg’s in Broadgate Circle, before taking part in a team baking challenge in Haggerston, which saw us compete in pairs to produce a festive bake in 90 minutes. Accounts manager, Lisa Ebbens, and editorial intern, Carter Rogers, were crowned as winners.

t n i a p Re s e l u R the

We've been behind the scenes in the lab testing the latest range of nail polish and Gel Junkie's new CTL (Create The Length) Gel. To be available to all nail professionals early 2024.

GELJUNKIE.CO.UK

INDUSTRYTRENDS

5 TRENDS TO NOTE FOR Scratch explores trends set to dominate this year & how to incorporate them into your business 1.Wellness as a priority The definition of beauty is changing, from a focus on products and services designed to help consumers conform to physical standards, to an emphasis on looking healthy. This is thanks to younger generations, details The Future of Beauty and Wellness Report 2024 by beauty booking platform, Fresha, and trend forecasting authority, WGSN. It notes that 37% of boomers see beauty services as an act of indulgence, compared to over half of Gen Z, millennials and Gen X, and these younger consumers are dedicating more time to moments of physical and mental self-care. Fresha reveals that on average, customers spend the most time at off-peak appointments on Sundays, Mondays and Tuesdays, with spend per appointment higher than on peak days: Thursdays and Fridays, and on par with Saturdays. The report suggests that salons can capitalise on this by rebranding off-peak days as ‘maintenance days’ in 2024. It predicts that in future, businesses will offer packages for essential treatments in one wellbeing-focused appointment. Emotional training for staff will allow for professional client support, and counsellors will become part of the treatment experience. The report also forecasts that sensory services, such as temperaturestimulating treatments, and spiritual therapy, like reiki, will become integral to the beauty experience. This trend aligns with market analysis company, Mintel’s 2024 Global Beauty and Personal Care Trends, which include ‘Neuro-Glow’ – defined as ‘mind-body beauty, where mental wellbeing and physical appearance are interconnected.’ In 2024, Mintel predicts that mental wellbeing will become a fundamental and mainstream part of brands’ customer strategies.

24 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

2. Advantageous add-ons According to The Future of Beauty and Wellness Report 2024, add-ons are getting a makeover for 2024. The report notes that while additional services have not evolved much over time, they increase footfall, encourage long-term loyalty and inject a business with more personality. The focus is on making clients feel as comfortable as possible, from offering them Wi-Fi to elevating their emotional responses with added treatments, and catering to their tastes with refreshments. For example, what are current food and drink trends among your client base? Can you incorporate bubble tea, low/no-alcohol drinks or gut-friendly refreshments into your services, or partner with local cafés or grocers? Fresha and WGSN’s report explains that not all add-ons need to be complimentary, and they can be used to increase revenue. Its consumer survey in February 2023 found that the majority of respondents would pay for one or two add-ons, with millennials and Gen Z most likely to spend money on this.

INDUSTRYTRENDS

3. Transformative technology

Kasia Kate Nails, Scotland, allows pets in the salon, believing that they bring a positive energy to the space.

Technology’s increased impact on the beauty sector is not a surprising trend. While many are wary of technologies like artificial intelligence (AI), they can help businesses offer more personalised experiences, including by leveraging online feedback to identify gaps and desires, notes Mintel. The company reveals that 77% of UK adults believe technology is having a positive effect on accessing information, and 49% of Chinese adults agree that AI-generated suggestions are more authentic than those presented by humans. It also shares that technology is accelerating product developments and promoting inclusivity, but governance and transparency are key to ensure that digital tools are a positive force.

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4. Calming colour PANTONE 13-1023 Peach Fuzz is global colour authority, Pantone’s Color of the Year 2024, an annual shade pick that not only inspires choices within the beauty, fashion and design worlds – but represents current cultural movements. The warm, soft and peaceful peach hue “brings belonging, Pantone’s Color of the Year 2024, Peach Fuzz. inspires recalibration and offers an opportunity for nurturing, conjuring up an air of calm and offering a space to be, feel, heal and flourish,” notes Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. The colour is said to represent the need for compassion due to turbulent current events, and a desire for community and togetherness with loved ones. Stay ahead of the trend by incorporating into nail designs or choosing a peachy hue for a full overlay. Anglesey’s Nails By Phoebe uses Peach Shades by The GelBottle Inc to create an on-trend overlay.

5. Pet pampering If you made a fur-ever friend during the pandemic, you’re not alone – as lockdown sparked a pandemic pet boom. The connection between pet and human has long been recognised as a special bond, with pets seen as family members, and the pandemic only enhanced this, reveals The Future of Beauty and Wellness Report 2024. Time spent together during this period has left many pets with separation anxiety, prompting a rise in pet-friendly locations to alleviate their stress. And just as humans expect high-quality, effective beauty products, often with natural and vegan properties, they want the same for their pets. This has resulted in the creation of products that are safe for owners and pets, helping consumers to place trust in products, save money and have shared beauty and emotional experiences. Expect to see beauty businesses making pets a priority in 2024 and beyond, notes the report, via pet-friendly times and refreshments, dedicated zones and eventually pet treatments, as well as shared owner and pet services.

US salon, Nails By Kumi, creates the effect of molten metal on nails with this 3D silver chrome manicure. Instagram.com/nailsbykumi

Fresha and WGSN’s The Future of Beauty and Wellness Report 2024 adds that virtual try-on technologies are set to further influence creative beauty experimentation in 2024. Sally Hansen’s online try-on nail colour experience, using Perfect It cites research from global Corp.’s AgileHandTM Technology. insights provider, NielsenIQ, which discovered that 56% of shoppers have more confidence about a product that offers an augmented reality (AR) experience, and 62% of shoppers prefer to shop with a retailer that offers AR. This technology use is predominately influenced by millennials and Gen Z, and they are driving the industry to soon adopt innovative tools, such as AR apps and smart mirrors that allow clients to trial a treatment by virtually showcasing its personalised results.

Here to stay: chrome claws In the Pinterest Predicts report 2024, the image sharing platform states that searches for ‘nail art metallic’ have risen by 295% in recent months. It forecasts that ‘melty metallics’ will continue to dominate the new year, via bold chrome looks.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 25

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BUSINESSMATTERS

Prepare for Progress A new year offers an opportunity to pursue goals & focus on reaching potential. CHLOE RANDALL explores ways to boost your profile & strive for success Stepping into 2024 provides a chance to evaluate your business to support your career growth. From goals to finances, marketing and competition hopes, Scratch explores how nail technicians can plan and prepare for the year ahead…

Reflect on goals & set new ones Before getting caught up in the excitement of a new year, look back on your business decisions in 2023 and establish what worked and what didn’t. Use this review to plan achievable action points and targets, and set yourself deadlines where appropriate. “Spend some time revising your goals and business plan,” advises Sarah Hartley, Scratch Stars Nail Business Mentor of the Year finalist 2023 & founder of marketing training platform, Blossom Tree Social. “Check that you are progressing in line with your plan, and see if any adjustments need to be made. It’s good to remember your Sarah Hartley end goal, but you also need to focus on your smaller targets so you can efficiently make your way toward your objective.”

Blossom Tree Social Printable Goal Planner Bundle £10.99 inc VAT www.blossomtreesocial.com This handy resource includes space for five annual goals, action points and milestones, a monthly focus and a monthly and quarterly goal planner.

“A new year means new alignments and affords a chance to reconnect with what makes you happy.” 28 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Focus on finances

Ensuring you are charging your worth and evaluating your finances so that you can afford to take time off is imperative for a comfortable work-life balance. Review your price list and outgoings to determine if any alterations need to be made. “Create a maintainable working schedule, which includes a set number of paid holidays throughout the year,” advises Ruth Munro, Scratch Stars Nail Business Mentor of the Year finalist 2023. “Base your price list on this schedule and what you would like to earn. This is a great way to prevent burnout and Ruth Munro help you achieve the salary you would like. Self-employed nail techs and salon owners will also need to focus on their tax return and financial plan for the following year.”

Business Management Pre-recorded Workshop £25 inc VAT www.littleblankspaces.com/nail-courses Ruth Munro offers a business management workshop with one month’s access. It covers business planning, finance, price lists, policies, marketing strategies and advertising. It also includes a certificate of attendance, personal feedback, in-depth training notes and ongoing support.

Maddi Cook, owner of Boss Your Salon, helps empower hair and beauty pros to price perfectly, set boundaries and grow without burnout. She believes that business growth is for everyone and has helped over 20,000 hair and beauty pros to amplify their businesses. Maddi offers the Boss Your Profits Pricing Maddi Cook Calculator Course, which helps pros work out how much money they need to make and how to word a price increase announcement. It also includes a pricing calculator app and access to a Facebook support group. Scan here to sign up

BUSINESSMATTERS Make the most of marketing Promoting what you offer, and doing it well, will help attract and retain clients. Review your marketing methods and evaluate which were effective, and explore any changes in messaging or marketing type that can strengthen your results. “Learn as much as you can about marketing to stand out from the crowd,” recommends Joanna Tompkins, Scratch Stars Nail Business Mentor of the Year 2023 & owner of Nail Tech Tribe. “The market has never been so saturated, so if you want success, you need to make sure potential clients know you exist and Joanna Tompkins that your business should be the one they choose. “Focus on these three main marketing areas: • Google: Are you showing up at the top of Google search results? This will increase your bookings. • Social media: Focus on the number of enquiries and bookings, not likes and followers. You can have 200 followers and be earning £2,000 per month, or have 2,000 followers but only earn £200 per month. • Community-based marketing: It’s who you know, not what you know! Consider collaborations, recommendations, networking and flyers. Build relationships within your local community and get your name out there.”

Layla Tourh

Keep an eye on your offerings Use 2024 to focus on what you enjoy and what is better for your life and business. “Cut the deadwood from your business,” states Layla Tourh, Scratch Stars Nail Business Mentor of the Year finalist 2023. “This could mean clients or services. A new year means new alignments and affords a chance to reconnect with what makes you happy. Are you not into nail art anymore? Give yourself permission to remove nail art from your price list and inform your nail art clients. It’s fine not to offer everything, as not every client is into everything.”

Consider competitions

Seize opportunities to develop your skills and receive recognition for your success by entering nail competitions. It may be a step outside of your comfort zone, but is key to gaining objective views of your work and building your profile.

Metta Francis, Scratch Stars Awards Ultimate Mobile Nailist, reveals five reasons why she values the awards experience: • It gives you the chance to review the last year. It’s easy to get caught up in your day-to-day life, and the application process forces you to look back and reflect. It’s surprisingly easy to forget about the great moments, from that wonderful seminar you attended to a record-breaking month. • It helps you identify any areas that need improvement. The application process forces you to focus on your personal development and business. You might notice a few gaps in your education and technical skills, and this is the best opportunity to set yourself goals for the year ahead to fill in those gaps. • It keeps you on your A-game. From your social media to website and photos, ensure everything looks great. When it comes to your nail treatments, make sure you’re providing a five-star service each time. Capitalise on glowing customer testimonials. • Get uncomfortable. If the idea of putting yourself forward and entering awards makes you feel awkward and uncomfortable, you’re on the right path. Magic happens outside of your comfort zone. Entering the Scratch Stars Awards takes determination and helps you to overcome insecurities and a lack of confidence to write about yourself and your achievements. • Opportunity awaits. If you don’t enter, you have no chance of winning, but to be chosen as a finalist can help raise your profile in the industry. You’ll also find that your clients love talking about their ‘famous’ nail tech who’s up for an award. From a business point of view, I’ve been able to charge a premium for my services as a multi-award-winning nail technician. Entry for this year’s Scratch Stars Awards is open 1 February to 10 March. Visit www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/scratchstars to find out more. Metta Francis

“The market has never been so saturated, so if you want success, you need to make sure potential clients know you exist and that your business should be the one they choose.”

Top up your training Continued professional development (CPD) is essential for keeping up with new techniques, enhancing product knowledge and preventing bad habits. Evaluate your quiet spells and book training courses for these periods. “Education is more than just learning a new skill: it’s about keeping the skills you already have up to scratch to ensure your clients get the very best treatment from you,” comments Dave Horton, director at insurance & accreditation provider, ABT Insurance. “It’s so easy to get complacent if the same clients return to you every month, but if you’ve performed a luxury manicure the same way for the last 10 years without undertaking further training, the time to take action is long overdue. Dave Horton

“Product formulations change and techniques evolve, and with this, client expectations have grown. You should aspire to be the best you can be, and the prospect of keeping your skills on top form should be exciting.”

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 29

NEWCOLUMNIST

NEWS

Immerse in competition highlights, interviews & points to note from the Nailympia realm, with its global director, ALEX FOX

to be Nailympia tnam e i V n i d e host Damon Ho, a nail artist & educator from Arizona, USA, is to host the inaugural Nailympia Vietnam competition in April 2024. This news follows his participation as a judge on the Nailympia panel in the USA in 2023, and his close observation of the second Nailympia Mexico. This addition to the Nailympia global family will be hosted at the Grand Palace in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, 10-11 April. Keen to afford industry change and growth, and widen the Nailympia net, Damon cites: “Hosting Nailympia Vietnam is about bringing international standards to Vietnamese nail artistry; creating a bridge between Vietnam and the global beauty industry, while showcasing the immense talent in the region.” A keen advocate of competitions, Damon believes that the Nailympia experience is transformative, as it fosters an inclusive and diverse culture while showcasing innovation and industry trends. “Nailympia is an exhilarating platform that stands for quality and excellence,” he concedes. “It’s a fair and impartial competition that celebrates creativity and skill in nail artistry.” Considering a broader perspective, Damon harbours an expansive vision for the future, with Nailympia Vietnam as the first step towards the bigger picture. “My primary goal is to elevate the global perception of Vietnamese nail artistry and create expansive opportunities for professionals in this field,” he reveals. “I’m focused on building a global community in which skills and knowledge are shared, fostering growth and innovation in nail artistry. “A key part of this vision is to integrate AI technology into the nail industry, enhancing both the artistic process and business side of operations. I’d also like to explore the idea of a TV show focused on the nail business. This show would not just illuminate the artistic side of nail artistry, but delve into effective business strategies for scaling and thriving in the industry. In essence, my aim is to transform the nail sector into a globally recognised and respected field, showcasing the talent and innovation that define Vietnamese nail artistry.”

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20 years of Nailympia 2005-2024

MEET DAMON HO Host of Nailympia Vietnam 10-11 April 2024, Ho Chi Minh City @salon.ceo When did you train as a manicurist & why? I moved to the USA over 10 years ago, driven by the prospect of a better life and in pursuit of the American dream for myself and my family. Shortly after my arrival, I trained as a manicurist. Initially, it was a practical decision to earn a living, but I quickly developed a profound passion for the artistry and personal connections the role offers. What is it about nails that interests you? Nail artistry’s ability to uplift and transform fascinates me. The joy and satisfaction in clients’ eyes after a service are deeply fulfilling, and my love for artistry only grew as I realised the vast potential in nail design. How did you build your reputation? Persistence, dedication to quality and innovative techniques were key. Also, uplifting those around me and adhering to the philosophy of doing things right played a significant role in building my reputation. What do you love about the nail industry? The industry’s creativity, evolution and impact on both artists and clients. It’s a field that harmoniously blends aesthetics with emotional wellbeing.

NEWCOLUMNIST

Dates for the diary h 22-23-24 Marc – y an rm Ge a pi ym Nail rmany Ge , rf do Beauty Düssel a.de www.nail ym pi

10-11 Ap ri l Pa lace, Ho nam – Grand nam Nailympia Viet et Vi , Chi Minh City ia as a. pi www.nailym 2-3 June ndo – Nailympia Orla orid a, USA Fl o, nd Premiere Orla biz orlandoshow. www.premiere (Date TBA) August 20 24 a Nailympia Chin r 13-14 Oc to be – on nd Lo a pi ym Nail ndon Lo l Ce Ex Salon Beauty, m co a. pi ym www.nail

What does your role involve? My days are spent managing salons, hosting training sessions, strategising for growth, exploring new trends and seeking new knowledge.

Why did you become a V Beauty Pure educator? It was a step towards sharing my knowledge and helping others grow. My alignment with David Dilorenzo’s vision played a significant role in this decision.

What are your kitbag essentials? While I have a variety of tools, my hands, my mind and my experience are the most crucial. I’ve trained myself to adapt to any challenge and use any tool effectively.

What excites you about life in general? Life excites me with its endless opportunities for growth, learning and positive impact on others.

Who have you trained with over the years? I’ve trained with a range of experts, both in the USA and globally, each enriching my skillset and broadening my perspective. Who do you admire in the nail industry & why? My admiration extends from successful CEOs to dedicated parents managing home businesses. It’s their innovation, passion and relentless pursuit of excellence that I admire. What products do you use? V Beauty Pure products are staple in my kit, but I use a variety of products to ensure the best outcomes. My partnership with V Beauty Pure is also driven by shared visions and goals with its CEO, David Dilorenzo.

What has been key to your success? Dedication, continuous learning, adaptability and a drive for excellence have been the cornerstones of my success. Where do you find inspiration for your nail art designs? Inspiration is everywhere – in nature, fashion, art and everyday life experiences. If not nails, what would you be doing? Apart from the nail industry, I would most likely be involved in other entrepreneurial ventures in beauty and wellness. My tech holding company is testament to this, aiming to aid nail techs and salon owners in scaling their businesses. How are you embracing change in the nail industry? I embrace change by constantly learning, updating

For information about Nailympia Competitions including how to enter, visit www.nailympia.com /Nailympia @nailympiacompetitions Nailympia Competitions are powered by

my skills and staying ahead of trends and technologies. What’s your career highlight? Transforming my business from a single struggling salon into a thriving chain, and becoming a respected educator, stand out as career highlights. If you could change anything about the industry, what would it be? I would encourage more collaboration and less competition, fostering a community that thrives on shared success. Changing the pricing mindset to reflect the true value of our artistry and skill is also vital. What’s your advice for aspiring nail pros? Never stop learning, be open to new ideas and take pride in your work. Remember, you’re not just a nail technician; you’re a therapist, artist and vital part of your clients’ lives.

The Nailympia 2024 marketing imagery comes courtesy of: Hand image Warrior image Nail artist: Melinda Tamas Nail artist: Èva Pásztornè Balog (@tamasmela) (@evaprofessionalnails) Photographer: Jozsef Balogh Photographer: Zsolt Kő szegi Model: Agnes Koltai Model: Kitty Kovács Make-up artist: Lívia Rideg Make-up artist: Ivett Orosz Retoucher: Anna Petrovas SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 31

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How to nail the NAILINSPO

h c n e r F

Explore top tips & product picks to master classic & alternative French looks using five nail systems REBECCA HITCHON REPORTS

History of the French manicure

How to make the French alternative

The French manicure is often attributed to president & CEO of Orly International, Jeff Pink, who crafted a simple, timeless and natural-looking nail style to match screen actresses’ various outfits in the 1970s, helping them to speed up wardrobe changes.

“I like to keep an alternative French tip recognisable by using a colour or texture that stands out from the base, for example a bright pink tip over a light pink base, or a glossy tip on a matte nail,” comments Louella Belle ambassador, Lily Moore Lily Moore. “I enjoy using the Artistic Art Paints to create alternative tips for a French manicure, as they offer coverage in one stroke and cure with a tack-free finish, so a chrome French can also Yorkshire tech, @emmacharlotte_nails, be achieved, if desired.” pairs a matte brown French tip with

Kelly Marie Daly

“When French tips were first painted on nails, the common technique was to apply polish to nails and clean up smile lines using a prep solution and brush,” reveals Kelly Marie Daly, head educator for The Manicure Company. “Nowadays, a French is applied thinly using a liner brush, and pink & white are not the only colours used for the look.”

3 top tips for perfecting the French Ruth Munro, Magpie Beauty educator & Scratch Stars finalist for The Shooting Star Award & Nail Business Mentor Award 2023, shares her guidance for successfully achieving French styles using any system... 1. Use a good quality brush to create smile lines, as this allows you to paint even linework with ease. If there are any splayed hairs on your brush, the result will look messy. If your brush has been knocked out of shape, put it in a mug of boiling water to pull the hairs back together and restraighten the tool. 2. Do not use a client’s natural smile lines as a guide, as these are usually uneven and have varying thicknesses. Techs should use a cover shade on nails, before painting tips that complement their client’s chosen nail shape and are consistently shaped. 3. Practice! I used to refuse French requests when I first qualified as a nail technician, as all I could see were mistakes. I did a model call-out to practice the classic French on natural nails of different lengths and shapes, until I was happier with my work. I am now more confident in creating a French, but still allow plenty of time to perfect the look. Ruth Munro

34 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

a glossy chocolate base. “Many of my clients change up their French tip colour of choice based on the season or latest trends,” adds Yasmin Hodge of Wolverhampton business, Gels By Yas. “For example, when the Barbie movie Yasmin Hodge came out last year, some clients opted for a pink French tip. I also find that brides want something beyond the classic French; they seek an extra touch to enhance the look. For a bridal client, I created a classic French manicure then outlined each smile line in a silver glitter.”

Yasmin Hodge created this classic French mani using Madam Glam products, and elevated it with silver glitter for a client’s wedding day.

Instagram.com/emmacharlotte_nails

Likely the most recognisable nail style globally, the French has become a staple design, owing to its role in enhancing the look of the natural nail. It is continuously being reimagined with alternative twists, but there are rules to be followed to perfect smile lines and create a dazzling finish. Scratch shares an insight into them here...

NAILINSPO

L&P Benefits: Creates

strong, shapely enhancements, with opportunities for encapsulation.

Classic

STEP-BY-STEP: Almond classic French using L&P acrylic

Halo Acrylic Powder in Cover Pink (45g) £12.06 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk

Courtesy of Katie Clark, award-winning nail tech, educator & founder of Katie Barnes Academy & Tool Range.

Step 1 Push back the cuticle and use a 240-grit file to refine the free edge and remove shine from the nail plate.

Artistic Rock Hard L&P Nail Powder in Bright White from £9.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk CNDTM Perfect Color Sculpting Powder in Natural Buff £38.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com CND™ Odourless Sculpting Liquid from £11.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Step 2 Remove the form you will be using and place the tab symmetrically in the middle of the form. Leave a gap where the form meets the natural nail, otherwise this will thicken the cutting zone and be more prone to tearing. Close the lower wings together, ensuring both sides meet flawlessly, and close the end of the form into a point. Step 3 Place the form on the finger. From a side view, the form should tilt down slightly. From a bird’s eye view, the form should be closed. Using the KB Form Tailoring White Gel Pen, mark the shape of the free edge. Step 4 Use the KB Curved Form Tailoring Scissors to cut out the template. Step 5 Place the form in the same position as step three. Any gaps will now be closed. Use the White Gel Pen to place a mark at the corner points of the natural free edge.

Entity L&P products, available via www.beautybossherquarters.co.uk

Step 6 Using the KB Straight Form Tailoring Scissors, make a 1cm long cut at a 45-degree angle.

Instagram.com/nailsbymookie

Make it alternative... Instagram.com/tinachen.nails

Fulham nail artist, Tina Chen, adds pops of pink, yellow and orange to this bold L&P French.

US pro, @nailsbymookie, captures attention with encapsulated floral details in this extreme stiletto French.

Step 7 Place the form in the same position as step five and pinch underneath it. For a pointed almond, pinch the form closed at the point where the free edge extension ends. The cuts from the previous step will allow a tight pinch and deep C-curve to be created, without needing to pinch the enhancement. Step 8 Apply a thin layer of acid-free primer to the nail plate. Do not flood the skin. Apply a very thin layer of clear acrylic over the free edge. This will act as a platform when filing the smile line.

Step 9 Apply a bead of cover pink acrylic at the free edge of the extended nail. Work back towards the cuticle. Ensure the smile line wall is the same thickness all around, and bring the corners out into a diamond shape to create sharp points. Step 10 Use a 150-grit file at a 45-degree angle to file the smile line. Using a new file will ensure a symmetrical result. Step 11 Repeat step 10 with the file held flush against the side wall.

These chocolate marble tips by Glitterbels co-founder, Annabel Maginnis, serve up a sophisticated winter style.

Step 12 Remove dust with a firm dusting brush. Apply white acrylic in one bead, if possible, to avoid marbling. Ensure the white butts right up to the pink and covers the entire thickness of the wall for a crisp finish. Glitterbels Coloured Acrylic Powder in Queen Bee £9.95 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

Step 13 File and buff to shape.

>> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 35

NAILINSPO

GEL

Classic

Benefits: Crafts hard-wearing, long-lasting glossy looks, with flexible wear. Jojo Wickens

Make it alternative...

“There are two ways to create a classic French using hard gel: the paint-on method and the reverse sculpt method,” reveals Jojo Wickens, Light Elegance UK co-owner & head of education.

A scarlet hue adorns the tips of this gel manicure by Jojo Wickens using Light Elegance products.

Paint-on method

“If crafting a classic French on a short nail, a detailer brush will allow you to easily paint the free edge in one coat. If creating a French look on a longer nail, I like to use an angled brush to fill in the free edge, after painting the smile line with the detailer brush. When using this method, apply the white in two thin layers for an even colour finish. My favourite colour gel for French application is Light Elegance ButterCream in Just White. Seal in with top coat to create a smooth, shiny finish.” UK nail educator, Becky Armstrong, used Glossify’s One Coat Gel in White for this picture-perfect almond French.

Reverse sculpt method

Glossify One Coat Gel in White £15 inc VAT www.glossify.co.uk

Light Elegance ButterCream Colour Gel in Just White £17.95 + VAT www.lightelegance.co.uk

OPI Diamond Gel in Neutral Pink £54.18 + VAT www.opi.com

Nail tech & educator, Hayley Matthews of @bonitabling, used Light Elegance ButterCream in Black Tie for this alternative look.

BIOGEL in Feel The Veld £16.50 + VAT www.renewbeauty.co.uk

Light Elegance ButterCream Colour Gel in Black Tie £17.95 + VAT www.lightelegance.co.uk

36 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

On the Blonds NYFW runway, models sported abstract blue chrome French tips, created by session nail artist, Juan Alvear, using KISS products.

Instagram.com/yukiebeautyspa

At New York Fashion Week spring/summer 2024, chrome French looks were one of the nail styles to dominate. This aligns with the Pinterest Predicts report 2024, which forecasts that ‘melty metallics’ in the form of bold chrome looks will be popular this year.

Instagram.com/byjuanalvear

Lecenté UV/LED Hard Builder Gel in Pink £19.99 + VAT www.lecente.com / www.sweetsquared.com / www.ellisons.co.uk

Trend alert

Kerrie Scott of Queensland, Australia, crafts a springtime-ready French look, with multi-coloured pastel tips.

iZ Pro Colour Gel in Ready To Wear £16.98 + VAT www.izabellehammon.com Instagram.com/bonitabling

Instagram.com/becky___lit

“The reverse sculpt method creates a French within the structure of hard gel and works especially well for longer nails,” Jojo continues. “First, apply a thicker viscosity gel as the base colour, covering at least two thirds of the nail length. I recommend Light Elegance’s Lexy Line Building Gel in Ideal Pink for this, as it stays put and doesn’t self-level out of place. You then need to create a ‘wall’ at the smile line. If needed, you can file the smile line after curing to neaten its shape, before applying the free edge colour. Use a stylus or dotting tool to apply the white gel to the free edge. A stylus allows for easy and precise application of gel to the corners, avoiding the skin. Use a crystal-clear gel to encase the entire nail and add strength in the apex area, if it’s flat at this stage. Finish file the nail, then apply top coat to reveal a French with a crisp smile line.”

INK London Liquid Metal Art Gel Duo £15 inc VAT www.inknails.com Also in New York, Yukie Beauty Spa tended to the nails of models for the LaQuan Smith show, crafting French manicures with silver chrome tips.

The GelBottle Inc Studio GelTM in Mirror Chrome £13 + VAT www.thegelbottleinc.com

Instagram.com/nailsbykerriescott

“The paint-on method involves creating a hard gel base and painting a French tip on top,” details Jojo. “I would recommend using a hard gel such as the Light Elegance Ideal Pink 1-Step Lexy Line Building Gel, as the colour suits most skin tones. Once you have perfected the base, use a highly pigmented white colour gel to create a crisp smile line. This allows for a thin colour application, avoiding a thickness on the surface of the nail. I advise that the white tip should be no more than a third of the full nail length, and often looks even better if it is less than this.

NAILINSPO

GEL POLISH Benefits: Offers speedy

Classic

“For a classic gel polish French, I recommend using a pink base hue that complements the client’s skin application and tone, a bright white with a good removal, with consistency and a quality liner brush, like the Stripe Liner or Detailer 9 from a rainbow of The Manicure Company, to apply the colour options. white,” says Kelly Marie Daly. “Ensure that when you dip the brush into the white gel polish, it is not carrying excess product, because this can cause you to lose control of the product and lead to bleeding of colours. If you make a mistake, wipe it off and try again, or clean up the lines using a cleansing solution. I also advise flash curing each nail as you go, to avoid smudging the look.”

Salon System nail expert, Jaz Moger, used Gellux products to perfect this classic French.

The Manicure Company Detailer 9 Nail Art Brush £10.46 inc VAT www.themanicurecompany.com

“My top advice for creating a French using gel polish is to Zero Gel Polish in Parisian Pink mattify the base using top £11.33 inc VAT www.themanicurecompany.com coat, before painting the French tip,” comments Gelish educator, Jenni Hesson. “This will help you Jenni Hesson to paint smooth lines and avoid the gel polish bleeding. Remember, the classic French needs to have less white and more pink. Don’t add too much white initially, as more product can be added if needed. A thin gel polish formulation, like Gelish, helps Salon System Gellux with this and is the perfect consistency to Gel Polish in Purely master smile line strokes.” “When creating a French tip, I start by painting two diagonal lines using a striper brush, determining how deep I want the smile line to be,” says Jenni Hesson. “I add a horizontal line near the free edge and use this as my guide to create a curve. Once you have perfected the smile line, you can fill in the gaps and make the tip crisper or wipe away any excess. A striper brush will help you ensure that the thickness and depth of each French tip is the same.”

Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish in Dew Me A Favour £16.99 + VAT www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk

White £11.95 + VAT. Available via wholesalers nationwide.

Gelish Gel Striper Brush £13.99 + VAT www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk / www.salon-services.com

TOP TIP “A deep smile line gives the illusion of a long nail bed.”

Make it alternative...

Jenni Hesson

Halo Gel Polish in Dazzle £5.95 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk

Timeless tortie art meets French tips, courtesy of Manchester tech, Lilli Griffiths of @thenailpeach.

Instagram.com/@thenailpeach

Bringing Greek summer vibes to the winter months, Jenni Hesson matches the colour of these French tips to evil eye details.

The GelBottle Inc in Disco £16.50 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

Salon System nail expert, Julie-Anne Larivière, used a range of Gellux gel polishes to fashion this colourful double French manicure.

Artistic Colour Gloss in My Favorite View £13.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

>> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 37

NAILINSPO

ACRYGEL Benefits: Allows for refining of glossy nail finishes at your own pace.

“Using an acrylic and gel mix like The GelBottle Inc’s ProformTM to create a classic French means that a soft look is created, because the pink and white colours blend well,” says Beth Davis, The GelBottle Inc educator. “The ProFormTM white shade, Platinum, is ever so slightly Beth Davis sheer, which helps this blend, too. Choose a nude or pink shade that matches the client’s nail bed, then refine the shape so that the smile line is symmetrical. “The product should be thick enough to easily get the file around, so you can form a sharp smile line,” she continues. “Without a thick pink edge to file against, a blurred smile line will be created. Once you have filed the pink, wipe with acetone and use the white shade to create the French tip. When refined, this will leave a soft white tip.”

Kirsty Meakin Acrygel in Marshmallow White £19.99 + VAT www.kirstymeakin.com Halo Polibuild in Cover Pink £19.99 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk

French salon, The Beauty Box, uses acrygel to craft a classic French nail style.

Instagram.com/beautyboxneuch

Classic

Gelish PolyGel in Light Pink £49.99 + VAT www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk www.salon-services.com

The GelBottle Inc ProFormTM Gel in Platinum & Rose Quartz £19.50 + VAT each www.thegelbottle.com

Trend alert

“‘Barely there’ French looks, such as the micro French, are hugely desirable at present,” comments Candy Warren, Louella Belle’s digital Candy Warren marketing manager. “A great product for a French base is Artistic Nail Design’s Rubber Base Coat in Light Pink, which helps achieve a clean, minimal nail effect, while offering flexible protection to support nail growth.”

38 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Artistic Rubber Base Coat in Light Pink £19.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

Instagram.com/kalina_kin4eva

Instagram.com/__the.nail.room__

Classic white French tips get an angular makeover, complemented by a sparkly acrygel base, courtesy of Anastasia Koskorellou of The Nail Room.

Instagram.com/evolvednails

Make it alternative...

Gelish PolyGel was used in this glitzy style by Bulgarian business, @kalina_kin4eva.

Yorkshire mobile nail business, Evolved Nails, used The GelBottle Inc’s ProFormTM in Pink Star for the base of this enchanting French.

CND ShellacTM Gel Polish in Cream Puff £14.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Louella Belle brand ambassador, Demi of @bydjf___, paints a micro French tip using Artistic Colour Gloss in Bride.

At the Christian Cowan Paris Fashion Week spring/summer 2024 showcase, celebrity manicurist & educator, Julie Kandalec, created a micro smile line on press-ons using CND ShellacTM in Cream Puff, over dusty blue ShellacTM hue, Climb to the Top-az.

NAILINSPO OPI Nail Envy Bubble Bath Nail Strengthener £14.90 + VAT/RRP £21.90 www.opi.com

Classic

NAIL POLISH Benefits: Ideal for

Lucy Price-Marshall, OPI educator & Scratch Stars Natural Nail Specialist of the Year 2023, notes that thin coats of nail polish offer the best French finish. “I prefer to use one coat of pink, giving this a few minutes to dry, before applying a thin coat of white at the tip,” she shares. “Applying thick coats of pink can make French application difficult, as it can Lucy Price-Marshall cause the white lacquer to bleed or mix into the pink.

pedicures and clients who want to regularly change up their nail looks.

“When painting the French tip, I advise working in one long brush stroke, without taking the brush off the nail, to achieve a defined line. I work from right to left, then left to right to meet in the middle,” Lucy continues. “I give the white tip a couple of minutes to dry to avoid dragging white lacquer in the top coat – and I glide this on to avoid picking up colour. Applying top coat too thinly can pick up white in the brush and drag it over the pink.” The nail pro reveals what to look for in a lacquer for the look, stating that a white colour that has thickened, if the solvent has evaporated, should not be used. “This can make application difficult and untidy, and it can become challenging to define the smile line,” she explains. Lucy Price-Marshall used OPI Nail Lacquer for this classic French with a skinny tip.

“Take your time when applying nail lacquer and use thin, even coats,” adds Entity educator, Laura White. “When painting a French tip, ensure you’re supporting the client’s hand and keeping it steady, so you can sweep white across the free edge to the centre of your nail and repeat from the other side.

TOP TIP

“To avoid flooding the free edge when creating a lacquer French, only load one side of your brush with colour.” Lucy Price-Marshall

INK London Nail Art Liner Brush 4 Pack £10 + VAT www.inknails.com

Laura White

“A common mistake that affects the appearance of a French is a smile line that is too thick or straight,” Laura continues. “I love a skinny French on a short natural nail, but if a nail is worn in a longer style, the smile line looks most aesthetically pleasing when mirroring the shape of the eponychium.” OPI Infinite Shine in Alpine Snow £8.90 + VAT/RRP £17.50 www.opi.com

Make it alternative...

Entity Gel Lacquer in I’m On the Right Track £4.95 + VAT/RRP £9.95 www.beautybossherquarters.co.uk

Mii Colour Confidence Nail Polish in Queen of the Night £6.25 + VAT/RRP £13.50 www.gerrardinternational.com

Chocolate Peacci‘ polish colours were used for this double French by @missnailgeek.

In this style by digital content creator, Bárbara Rodrigues, purple and blue nail polish hues meet to make a pointed French tip.

Mii’s midnight purple Colour Confidence Nail Polish, Queen of the Night, makes a statement against the brand’s Nude Negligee polish, in this alternative French.

Instagram.com/barbaraa

Instagram.com/missnailgeek

Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer in Gift It Your Best £5.50 + VAT/RRP £11.95 www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 39

NAIL NATURALNAILCARE

Nurture

Scratch Stars Natural Nail Specialist of the Year 2023, LUCY PRICE-MARSHALL, shares common nail concerns & advice to improve their condition

The natural nail is the foundation of all nail services, and a healthy natural nail provides the perfect base for enhancements or colour application. Common nail conditions, such as brittle or peeling nails, can be nurtured with regular salon appointments and aftercare recommendations, and it’s important not to neglect the latter in order to support the health of the natural nail. Healthy nails are less likely to chip, crack or lift, and in the winter months, nails can become brittle – so it’s imperative for clients to increase their application of cuticle oil and hand cream. Avocado oil, which features in OPI’s Pro Spa range, can penetrate the nail plate and hydrate the nail, increasing its flexibility.

What not to treat Professionals should refer clients to their GP if there are changes in nail shape or thickness. Emerging ridges could be an indication of an underlying health condition, and fungal nails can be identified through discolouration, thickening, change of texture or brittleness. The skin can also become inflamed. Clients with fungal infections should not be treated, but referred to their GP for treatment. Allergies can be identified through the appearance of the nail plate, splinter haemorrhages, onycholysis and inflamed skin. Clients with suspected allergies should be referred to their GP for allergy testing. Bacterial infections such as paronychia should be referred for treatment. These can be identified by redness, swelling, skin that is hot to touch and the presence of pus. Viral infections such as warts and verrucas should be referred to the client’s GP.

COMMON CONDITIONS Brittle nails

Onycholysis

How to nurture: Treat the natural nails to a Pro Spa signature manicure to aid hydration. The avocado oil in the Pro Spa Sugar Scrub, Protective Hand, Nail & Cuticle Cream and Nail & Cuticle Oil penetrates the layers of the nail plate to support an increase in moisture. Clients should be encouraged to use the Cream and Cuticle Oil at home.

How to nurture: Treating onycholysis should be done with care after investigating the cause. To treat onycholysis, remove excess nail length and encourage clients to use a file at home, to reduce length and avoid ‘catching’ the nails. A dry mini manicure service is recommended, with use of Repair Mode for days and Pro Spa Nail & Cuticle Oil daily.

What? The wetting and drying of the nail plate can cause brittleness, as can factors including age, medication and health conditions. Brittle nails can break or snap easily.

OPI Pro Spa Protective Hand, Nail & Cuticle Cream £7.50 + VAT/RRP £13.90

What? Onycholysis is the separation of the nail plate from the nail bed, and can be caused by trauma, allergies or infection.

OPI 240-grit Edge File (48pk) £72 + VAT

Psoriasis

What? A chronic, systemic, non-contagious autoimmune disease. Psoriasis can cause pitting (small pinprick dimples) that can be seen on the nail plate, and is linked to psoriasis of the skin. It can be triggered by external factors and vary in severity, leading to other natural nail issues, such as trachonychia (a condition characterised by the excessively rough longitudinal ridges present on the nail plate, often seen on toenails) or onychorrhexis (longitudinal deep ridges, which can lead to splitting). How to nurture: Nail plates that exhibit psoriatic pitting should experience an OPI Pro Spa manicure service. I recommend that clients wear Nail Lacquer, Infinite Shine or GelColor and make maintenance appointments, while using Pro Spa Nail & Cuticle Oil at home. 42 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NATURALNAILCARE OPI Pro Spa Moisture Whip Massage Cream £9.70 + VAT/RRP £18.90

Hangnails What? Any client can be affected by hangnails. They can be caused by cold temperatures, drying of the nail plate and overworking of the cuticle area and sidewall when prepping the nail, which can cause the nail plate to splinter.

Delamination What? A dryness or minor trauma on the distal edge of the nail plate can cause the bonds between the layers to break, presenting delamination or ‘peeling nails’.

How to nurture: Treat hangnails with a luxury Pro Spa manicure. Use cuticle exfoliant and gently prep the nails after soaking and exfoliation. Finish the manicure with Pro Spa Moisture Whip Massage Cream or Advanced Softening Gloves to hydrate skin, cuticles and the nail plate. Recommend that the client uses the Pro Spa gloves weekly and returns for a manicure every three weeks.

How to nurture: Gently remove nail length using the OPI 240-grit Nail File, apply OPI Repair Mode to the nail plate and prep the nail for OPI Nail Envy, which strengthens and protects. Clients should continue to use Nail Envy and Pro Spa Nail & Cuticle Oil at home. Natural nail progress over two months, using OPI’s Repair Mode, Pro Spa Nail & Cuticle Oil and Nail Envy regularly.

BEFORE

OPI Pro Spa Advanced Softening Gloves (12pk) £43.70 + VAT

AFTER

WHICH SYSTEM?

A guide to OPI systems and their suitability for each nail type.

Diamond Gel

GelColor

Clients requiring additional length or strength would suit this 3-in-1 hard gel system, which can be used with a tip, to overlay or to sculpt. Diamond Gel is available in six natural-looking shades and offers around 21 days’ wear.

OPI’s gel polish system, GelColor, offers long-lasting colour on nails, with 14 to 21 days’ of wear. Within the system, there are prescriptive base coats, as well as the Stay Strong Base Coat for nails that are oily, bendy or thin, and the Stay Classic Base Coat for dry to normal nails.

OPI GelColor in Sickeningly Sweet £19.90 + VAT

Training a student in OPI Diamond Gel application.

OPI Nail Lacquer in Spring Break The Internet £7.50 + VAT/RRP £14.90

OPI Diamond Gel Warm Pink Builder+ (Passion) £54.18 + VAT

Nail Lacquer Infinite Shine

This formula is popular with clients who wish to remove colour at home. The lacquer offers up to 11 days’ wear and has a gel-like appearance. It’s great on toenails.

An ideal retail item, clients can use OPI Nail Lacquer at home or for a special occasion manicure, and remove with nail lacquer remover. It offers up to seven days’ wear.

OPI Infinite Shine in Charge It To Their Room £8.90 + VAT/RRP £16.90 OPI Repair Mode £18.90 + VAT/ RRP £29.90

Repair Mode

This nail serum offers keratin repair to the natural nail, and is a versatile formula that can be used in conjunction with all systems. Repair Mode can be used at home on regrowth and is a one-step treatment for damaged nails.

OPI Pro Spa Nail & Cuticle Oil £9.80 + VAT/ RRP £13.90

Nail Envy

This can be used as a treatment in-salon or at home to enhance results. Nail Envy provides the natural nail with strength and is available in a variety of shades. Original Nail Envy can be used as a base coat. OPI Nail Envy in Bubble Bath £14.90 + VAT/RRP £21.90

AFTERCARE ADVICE

Always advise your clients on how to take care of their nails between appointments, and recommend suitable products throughout their services. Educate them on how maintenance products will enhance the longevity and appearance of their manicures or pedicures, and direct them to your retail area to purchase appropriate products. I recommend that clients use OPI’s Repair Mode on enhancement regrowth, or follow the Repair Mode regime by using it twice daily for six days, then once weekly. I retail OPI Pro Spa Nail & Cuticle Oil, suggesting its use twice daily. To enhance the appearance of the skin and cuticles, clients should use OPI Pro Spa Protective Hand, Nail & Cuticle Cream daily. Advise them that gloves should be worn when emerging hands in water, using detergents, cleaning or gardening. Nails should not be used as tools; consider retailing a Keysie to open cans or rethread keys.

OPI products are available via www.opi.com

/OPINailsUK

/opinailsuk

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 43

NAILTALK

BEHIND THE GRAM Get to know social media nail stars as they offer an insight into their lives & share content creation tips Aberdeen Jema Baynes – ils @jellybayn_na 96.1K followers

My nail journey I enrolled on a Fashion & Textiles course after school, but my heart wasn’t in it, so I pursued Beauty Therapy at college. I most looked forward to nail art lessons and practiced a lot in my spare time. Now, I run two small businesses: Jellybayn Beads, a beading and jewellery brand, and Jellybayn Nails, which keeps me busy year-round.

Career highlight One of my greatest achievements is my collaboration with MoYou London. It saw three of my designs released on 600 nail strips, which sold out within days! Another pinch-me moment was when my local newspaper interviewed me for an article. After it was published, I was contacted by a number of people who wanted to book appointments.

What makes me happy My personal life is dedicated to my partner of 14 years, Scott, and my Goldendoodle, Dudley or ‘Duds’. We go for long walks, and Scott and I are extremely artistic, so we spend time drawing or painting.

Signature nail look I’ve always liked an extreme use of colour. My signature details are dots and glitter to fill negative space, or different art on each hand. Many people say that they can easily spot my designs on social media or in public!

A day in my life

Fun fact

I own 72 houseplants.

I worked from my spare bedroom for seven years, before moving into a cabin in my gran’s garden. Clients are encouraged to wear what makes them feel comfortable, and many bring their slippers or wear loungewear or pyjamas. I put a programme on for them to watch or ask if they want to listen to a podcast.

Social media advice

My Instagram presence has grown a lot in the last two years. I think being unique and true to my style has been key to this. I set myself limits on how often I post and prepare drafts for ease. I also take breaks from social media every few months.

My top three social media tips are:

1. Find your niche and stick toto it. Showcasing your own style will help you attract a loyal, like-minded following.

2. Research trends, hashtags and page tags. Altering trends to align with your style

will encourage recreations from techs. Trending tags can also help you to reach more people, and increase the chance of being featured on the ‘Explore’ page. 3. Share parts of your personal life, as people love to see the face behind the business. 44 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

My inspirations

I am often inspired by Pinterest images and fashion trends, and enjoy putting my own spin on nail trends. I don’t stick to one painting style, which keeps appointments fun for me and my clients. My nail art ranges from fine lines and geometric shapes to cute looks and dark, grungy designs.

NAILINSPO

STRIKEAPOSE

Preston-based nail & beauty pro, KIRSTY MCDONOUGH, shares an insight into her industry award wins & passion for competing

MEET THE IST NAIL STYL

THE TECH: Kirsty McDonough AGE: 32 LOCATION: Preston, Lancashire, UK YEARS IN NAILS: 13 years qualified after three years of training. /kmnailsandbeauty @kmnailsandbeauty

here are fears: of the unknown, of putting your work in front of judges’ eyes and of not winning, that hold many back from entering nail competitions. It’s something that Kirsty McDonough understands, after entering the competition sphere with an initial reluctance. In 2018, she was encouraged to compete by multi award-winning nail artist & educator, Hazel Dixon, during one of her extreme nail classes. Now, Kirsty tells Scratch that competition wins are the highlight of her nail career. “I was hesitant about entering competitions, as I had no knowledge of the process, but I quickly fell in love with the pressure and excitement felt when taking part,” she admits. An extreme shape created by Kirsty in a class with Hazel Dixon.

“Competitions have made me Kirsty’s accolades scooped at the Professional Beauty North & FNP Nail Competition 2023. a better nail technician and pushed me to a level I didn’t know I could reach. They’re not as scary as people think and take you on a learning place in five categories and third place in three curve, where you can also be inspired by others. This meant she accumulated the highest fellow nail pros. The main thing I make sure overall score, scooping the Pro Champion to do is ask judges for feedback, so I can award. One of the categories in which she won focus on implementing this into my work first place was Instanail (professional), which and improving my skill and efficiency.” requires entrants to produce a photo they would be proud to showcase on their business The beauty professional runs her business of Instagram page, alongside a step-by-step 10 years, KM Nails and Beauty, five days per of the entry. “I’ve always wanted to enter a week from Preston salon, Pretty Glam. Her love photographic competition category, but have for the nail and beauty industries bloomed doubted my camera skills,” Kirsty shares. from a young age, and her passion for nails “The theme was ‘Musicals’ and I wanted to became apparent once she began part-time create a Moulin Rouge look, inspired by the work in a salon after college. Presently, 80% of production’s fashion. The category rules were her booked services are nail-related, while her open to interpretation, therefore the entries other treatments include brow services, body were all so different and it was difficult to waxing and spray tans. know if my image would be successful.” Kirsty shares that L&P acrylic is her favourite nail system to work with. “I love the timeless nail classics; there’s nothing more satisfying than perfecting a French or ombré design,” she comments. “However, I also love fashioning wild, extreme nail shapes that aren’t suitable for everyday wear, and I compete so I am able to create both.” Last September, Kirsty entered the Professional Beauty North & FNP Nail Competition in Manchester, winning first

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Kirsty crafted the extreme shapes using L&P acrylic and HD Pro Long Sculpting Forms, ready to be adhered to her nails later. She then used an airbrush machine to achieve a lace effect. “I used lace as a stencil for the look, then HD Pro Art Gels and fine liner brushes for the line detailing, before adding crystals. I also put needles in the end of the enhancements for a wow factor.” The nail stylist reveals that photographing the image proved difficult, as she was the

NAILINSPO

Kirsty’s winning Instanail entry at the Professional Beauty North & FNP Nail Competition 2023.

hand model and her boyfriend was the photographer. “We can laugh about it now, but the picture wasn’t easy to take between the two of us, and it was challenging to get my hand in the most aesthetically pleasing positions. However, the hard work paid off as I love the pose of my hand in the winning image. You can notice the detail of each nail.” As 2024 begins, Kirsty’s new year’s resolution list is long. “I plan to enter every Professional Beauty & FNP Nail Competition and implement judges’ feedback when doing so,” she says. “I also want to push myself to enter Nailympia London. It’s always been a goal of mine and I feel ready to go for it in 2024. My final aim is to put my teacher training qualification to use and begin passing on my knowledge to like-minded nail technicians.” With such passion and ambition, Kirsty is certainly a nail name to watch.

“Competitions have made me a better nail technician and pushed me to a level I didn’t know I could reach. They’re not as scary as people think and take you on a learning curve, where you can also be inspired by fellow nail pros.” SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 47

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

h t i w s e l k r a p S & e v Lo ABOUT KATY

Katy Pottle, or ‘Katy P’, has over two decades of experience in the nail industry. From working on a mobile basis to owning a salon, her journey is a testament to her dedication and passion for the world of nails. She loves glitter and is on a mission to help nail techs worldwide shine, one intricate design at a time, with her online workshops and one-to-one masterclasses. In July 2023, following an intense competition process, Katy beat nail artists across the globe to be crowned the first World’s Star Nail Artist. She seeks to inspire and mentor fellow pros, and sprinkle her signature ‘love and sparkles’ across the industry.

JOIN MY MASTERCLASS If you are interested in brushing up your nail art skills, check out my online, 1-2-1 personalised masterclasses. Simply express your nail art desire and I will create a class to help meet your creative goals. I will soon launch pre-recorded workshops for avant-garde nails. Head to my website and enter code SCRATCH for 10% off. My entry into The World’s Star Nail Artist (WSNA) competition 2023, featuring my first use of 3D gel.

The World’s Star Nail Artist 2023 shares tips, techniques & insights into her soaring career

Nail The New Year : How to shine in nail art competitions

s we step into the new year, it’s the perfect time to set fresh goals for your nail journey. Whether you’re a seasoned artist or starting out, competitions can be an ideal playground to showcase your skills and creativity, as well as build confidence, learn from industry leaders and challenge yourself. Read on to explore my competition tips…

The spectrum of choice When it comes to nail competitions, there are various avenues through which artists can showcase their talent. Online competitions provide a global platform, allowing you to participate from the comfort of your workspace. From entering a picture of your work to competing in challenges, there are choices to suit all comfort and skill levels. In-person competitions offer a unique opportunity to present your art live, creating a more immersive experience and sense of community, as you will meet many industry peers. Consider your preferences and comfort level when choosing between the convenience of online and in-person events. Each option comes with its own set of challenges and rewards, so weigh them up to find the perfect fit for your skills, goals and lifestyle.

Behind–the–scenes When gearing up for an online nail art competition, the power of a well-crafted demo video cannot be overstated. This visual masterpiece can serve as a virtual portfolio, showcasing the technique, style and story behind your art. Start by ensuring that you are 50 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

filming under good light, with a clear view of your workspace. Take the time to explain your inspiration, colour choices and the intricacies of your design. Keep the video concise and engaging, highlighting key steps in your process, but most of all, be yourself and show the personality behind the nails. Regarding entries, choose a design that not only reflects your signature style, but aligns with the competition theme. Pay attention to details, as the judges will! Consider the technical aspects, such as precision and balance, as well as the overall visual impact. Let your creativity flow, ensure your passion shines through every stroke and don’t play it safe. Push yourself within the brief and showcase all the skills you have.

Time management magic One of the keys to success in nail art competitions is mastering time management. I found this to be one of the biggest hurdles to overcome. Plan your design and keep reading the challenge brief. Do your research and have a sketchbook handy to note down or draw ideas. Be realistic with the time frame you have, and if you are entering an in-person competition, practice your design against the clock. Trust me, those minutes will fly by during the competition!

Tips for avant–garde excellence Avant-garde design involves pushing boundaries and creating something unique. Embrace your creativity, let your imagination run wild and don’t be afraid to experiment with unconventional colours and shapes. Remember, it’s your chance to stand out, so make nails bold and beautiful!

In this design for WSNA Challenge 3, I told a story through nail design and embraced the use of non-nail materials.

Techniques that wow the judges Judges love to see a variety of skills, so don’t shy away from incorporating your own methods and personality into your creations. Try using new techniques in every challenge.

Community over competition Competing can be nerve-wracking, but remember, you’re not alone! Connect with fellow artists, share experiences and cheer each other on. The nail art community can be a fabulous place. It is also great to have people to talk to about your ideas.

Shine bright If you are competing in a multi-challenge competition, you may be working for hours to create your entries, so consider listening to a motivational podcast, your favourite playlist, or play a TV series in the background. Also remember to take regular breaks and get some fresh air.

Nails for WSNA Challenge 4, which required me to use one medium to showcase a variety of techniques.

The joy of winning and learning Win or lose, every competition offers a chance to learn and grow. Celebrate your victories and embrace the lessons in the moments that challenge you, using advice and constructive criticism to improve your skills. Competitions offer the chance to learn from a variety of industry leaders.

Shine bright like a world star!

As you embark on your competition journey this year, believe in your art, trust your skills and let your passion shine through. Most of all, have fun! Love & sparkles,

Katy P x www.katypnailartist.com /katypnailartist @katyp_nailartist

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

STEP- BY -STEP : 3D flowers KIT LIST • Kirsty Meakin Acrygel in Pink Marshmallow • Celina Rydén Crystals in Clear & Light Rose • Sorting tool • Striper brush • Two plastic sheets Magpie Beauty products: • Perfect Poly Acrygel in Ice Baby • ARTYgel Gel Paint in White • Blooming Gel in Blooming Lovely • Gel Colour in Come on Eileen, Hollywood, Green Jellie, Apple Sour, Strawberry Lace, Lilo-Lil and Ugly Betty • Flake Dust in Jude and Trixiebelle • Nail Glitter in Isla • Build Me Up Builder GelPot in Clear • Top It Off Top Coat • Angle One Stroke 4 Brush

Step 1 Sculpt a nail extension or use a tip to create length. Apply pink acrygel using the reverse French method and cure. File to create a crisp smile line, and paint a French tip using white gel paint. Cure. Step 2 Apply a blooming gel on top of the white tip, but do not cure. Place dots of four chosen green gel polish colours onto a palette and swirl them around using a dotting tool. Use an angled gel or one stroke brush to pick up sections of the swirled gel, and apply to the French tip. The blooming gel will spread the shades. Cure when you are happy with the look. Step 3 Apply flakes and glitter to the green area on the nail and encapsulate using clear acrygel. Cure and refine the shape. Apply top coat and cure. Step 4 To create the petals, first mix each of your chosen three pink gel polish shades with a small amount of builder gel. Place dots from light to dark onto a sheet of plastic and use a striper brush to pull into a teardrop shape. Place another piece of plastic carefully on top and cure. Step 5 Peel each petal from the plastic and affix to the nail using builder gel. Flash cure as you create the flower shape. Apply top coat to the petals and fully cure. Step 6 As you apply the petal layers, alter the colours of the petals so they get darker towards the centre of the flower, creating more depth.

Step 7 Using the same technique to create petals (but pinching the inner edges), craft a smaller flower underneath the first. Step 8 Use the plastic sheet technique with green gel polish shades to create leaves. Apply to the nail in clusters, with the thin edge pointing outwards. Step 9 Add crystals to the nail if desired. Fix with a strong gel and apply top coat to secure.

To read my blogs about my World’s Star Nail Artist competition journey, visit www.katypnailartist.com. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 51

PRODUCTMATTERS

Temperature

TALK Feeling the chill? CALLIE ILEY explores the impact that temperature has on nail products & serves up practical points to note

reating a comfortable atmosphere in the salon is important for you and your clients, but maintaining a regulated temperature is also vital to ensure that your nail products perform at their best.

Cooler temperatures can cause products such as gel, nail polish and art paints to thicken, making them challenging to work with. Heat, on the other hand, can cause products to cure or become runny. To get the best results from your nail products, ensure you put a focus on maintaining temperature control. Education platform, Nail Knowledge, stresses the importance of maintaining a steady temperature in the nail space, noting that variations can impact a nail product’s performance. It shares the optimum temperature for nail products, detailing: “An ideal range is between 20 to 23°C, offering comfortable working conditions and client comfort. A temperature lower than 18°C affects cure and dry times, but a cooler temperature does improve a product’s shelf life.”

“In colder “When your working environment is cold, you can warm L&P monomer to an ideal temperature climates, gel by using hot water bottles and heated desk blankets under your towel, or place the products often monomer on a heated hand warmer.” become stiffer, more Feeling the heat difficult to apply If temperatures inside the nail space are over 23°C, L&P users may experience changes to evenly and will their monomer. “The higher the temperature of take longer to the liquid, the faster the reaction and therefore the quicker the set time, making the product difficult self-level.” to work with and potentially responsible for service

With winter temperatures dropping even further at night, Salon System educator, Ruth Atkins, highlights the importance of ensuring that products are safely stored, commenting: “When storing your nail products overnight, you need to make sure the temperature is maintained between 20 and 23°C.”

Ruth Atkins

But how does temperature affect specific products, such as gel polish and L&P acrylic? Ruth Atkins explains: “In colder climates, gel products often become stiffer, more difficult to apply evenly and will take longer to self-level. L&P acrylic products are also sensitive to temperature change, and their curing times can be affected by this.”

52 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

“Temperature and additional UV exposure can greatly affect the polymerisation process of L&P and the viscosity of gel,” adds Katie Clark, founder of Katie Barnes Tool Range & Education. “This can be particularly problematic for mobile techs, who move from one temperature to another, or those Katie Clark working in buildings such as conservatories, which are prone to extreme temperatures. Every degree, whether lower or higher, will change the viscosity of gel products.

breakdown,” shares Katie Clark. “For those that work with gel, heat can cause the formula to become very fluid and challenging to control. It may then be likely to run into the surrounding skin and cause potential irritation and service breakdown. In higher temperatures, gels with a thicker viscosity should be used.”

Storage tips Gels should be stored away from sunlight, especially pots or gel polish products that have a window displaying the shade. Any light that comes into contact with the formula will start to cure it. Primer is light sensitive, so can discolour

PRODUCTMATTERS

“Clients will feel more relaxed if they’re not cold, so make sure your working area is comfortably warm, and if your clients feel the chill, provide them with a shawl or wrap. Cold hands are also tricky to work on, so offer clients a hot beverage to warm them up.”

and lose effectiveness if not stored correctly. Store inside a desk drawer or cupboard with doors, away from light. For those working with nail polish, it’s important to note that the pigments in the product can fade when exposed to sunlight, and bottles can explode in temperatures above 48°C. If nail polish has been sitting around for a while or stored incorrectly, it will begin to thicken and become difficult to use, due to its contact with the air.

Client comfort No client wants to be shivering during their pamper time, and cold temperatures can create issues with joint mobility, impacting the work of a tech. “Clients will feel more relaxed if they’re not cold, so make sure your working area is comfortably warm, and if your clients feel the chill, provide them with a shawl or wrap,” suggests Ruth Atkins. “Cold hands are also tricky to work on, so offer clients a hot beverage to warm them up.”

“When your working environment is cold, you can warm converted garage like mine can be L&P monomer to an “Adifficult to keep warm,” Samantha Birtchnell explains. “I use portable heaters to add ideal temperature by extra warmth when needed, but be using hot water bottles mindful that leads are a trip hazard.” and heated desk It can be difficult to maintain temperatures throughout larger salon spaces, especially if blankets under “I heat up the salon at least areas next to doors let in a cold breeze as half an hour before the first clients arrive and leave. “If your workplace is a your towel.”

“Keep your customers warm with blankets, infra-red lamps and warm drinks, and ask them to wash their hands under a warm tap prior to the service,” Katie Clark recommends. “In contrast, if your clients’ hands are too warm or clammy, products may set quicker and there could be issues with form adhesion. Encourage clients to wash their hands in cool water, or give them a cold towelette prior to the service.”

client arrives,” says Samantha Birtchnell of Suffolk-based business, Sunray Nails. “I have a variety of Samantha Birtchnell blankets available for clients and staff to put on their laps, and I provide hot drinks and invite clients to keep their coats on if they wish.”

large, busy salon, over-the-door heaters help to maintain the heat inside when clients enter and exit,” recommends Ruth Atkins.

Depending on where your salon is located, certain environments, such as garden salons, can be trickier to heat due to poorinsulation or no central heating system. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 53

SALONSPOTLIGHTS

Through the

Keyhole

Take a peek inside salon setups across the UK&I as Scratch unlocks each door…

Beauty By Chelsea

Location: Newhall, Derby

The high street in Newhall, Derby, has been home to Beauty By Chelsea since 2020, serving the community with lash, brow and facial waxing services alongside natural nail and enhancement treatments. Founder, Chelsea Tipper, bravely opened the business at the height of the pandemic, transforming the former fish and chip shop into a calming haven for beauty clients. Chelsea works alone, undertaking the roles of nail tech and beauty therapist, alongside receptionist, cleaner and social media manager. “I love the freedom of owning a business,” she shares. “I can change and adapt the space to suit my needs, and my clients like the private, one-to-one nature of treatments as they can truly relax.” The combination of neutral tones and wood furniture creates a homely feel, and gold accents add a sense of luxury. “The standout features are the wood-effect wallpaper, painted arch and pampas wreath,” Chelsea continues. “A photo frame featuring Disney-themed nails, painted by my goddaughter, is a sweet talking point.” The nail pro began her industry journey in 2009, obtaining qualifications from Burton College in 2012. She went on to train in CND Shellac™ and PlexiGel™ application, and uses the systems for nail enhancements, alongside IBX. “I have used CND Shellac™ since college, and my clients love the colours and longevity of the formula,” Chelsea reveals. “My most popular treatments are CND Shellac™ overlays on natural nails and PlexiGel™ enhancements with nail art. Clients enjoy using the mystery manicure machine to determine their nail designs.” /beautybychelseaclaire

@beautybychelseaa_

Nails By Rae Florence Location: Caldicot, Wales Rae Florence Head from Caldicot, Wales, changed career direction last September; giving up a PGCE primary teaching course to follow her passion for nail artistry. “From a young age, I had an interest in nail colour, and started painting the nails of friends and family,” she shares. “Last year, I attained a nail qualification from Blossom Academy and enrolled on an E-file course with Lucy Pastorelli, before launching my business, Nails By Rae Florence.” Rae works from a wooden cabin in her back garden, which was formerly used as a sewing room by her mum, a seamstress. “I change up the décor depending on the season to excite my clients,” Rae explains. “Last summer, it was inspired by the seafront, and I added decorations for Halloween and Christmas. It currently boasts a wintry, ski lodge style.” Rae loves the flexibility that owning her own business affords, and offers gel polish manicures and pedicures using The GelBottle Inc products, with the optional addition of Builder In A Bottle (BIAB™). Clients also have the choice of a French or simple design finish, or advanced artistry, and Rae has recently qualified in LVL with Nouveau Lashes. “I am so happy that I have pursued a career in nails, and that my clients feel comfortable in the surroundings. The best thing about the job is meeting new people – and I am excited to expand my clientele.” Nails By Rae Florence

@_byraeflorence

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EDUCATIONEVENT

TALONS & TAILS Join team Scratch behind-the-scenes at Shepreth Wildlife Park for Nail Safari: a five-day event combining nail education & animal magic

DAY 1

WHAT? Nail Safari is an event that welcomes guest educators across five days, to teach a variety of nail skills to attendees. It also incorporates visits to zoo enclosures and opportunities to feed the animals, and offers prizes to be won via a number of individual and team challenges.

Organiser team member, Alex Fox

WHERE? Shepreth Wildlife Park, Royston, Herts. WHEN? 13-17 November 2023 ORGANISERS: Alex Fox, Marian Newman, Jennie Nippard, Catriona Leith, Jacqui O’Sullivan & Kay Dodd. Nail Safari attendees.

Nail Safari organising team.

Nail Safari co-founder, Jennie Nippard, comments: “Nail Safari is born and run from a place of true love for the nail industry and all within it. It’s a safe, non-competitive space in which everyone wants to become the best version of themselves. It starts with the organisers, who endeavour to create an exciting event. The educators then deliver high-quality education and each nail ranger puts 110% into everything they do. The education is intense, but every day is heavily sprinkled with love and fun. One of the most rewarding things to observe is the delegates forging deep and meaningful friendships. Shepreth Wildlife Park offers an inspirational setting, which can be enjoyed from a classroom window or during a lunchtime stroll. Nail Safari welcomes all skill levels, as the multi award-winning educators tailor their courses so everybody learns, no matter what stage they are at in their nail journey.” 56 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Walking into the fourth Nail Safari, the organising group was ready, willing and in high spirits: eager to open the doors to attendees, or ‘rangers’, who would be split into three competing teams. New team leader, Jacqui O’Sullivan, joined Jennie Nippard and Cat Leith to guide and support the teams throughout the week, and proved a more than brilliant addition to the event. Fellow organiser, Kay Dodd, and I greeted the nail rangers on arrival and escorted them through Shepreth Wildlife Park into the event space. With a welcome wag of our tails, we highlighted housekeeping, park protocols and introduced zoo director, Rebecca Willers, to the room. Keen to get into the nail groove, the event opened with Andreea Simona Ignat, who delivered a class in her delicate teaching style. Setting a gentle mood across the room, Andreea eased rangers smoothly into their new surroundings, while opening Nail Safari with rich content. She notes: “This was my third time teaching at Nail Safari and I think it is an amazing event, as you are able to see all the gorgeous animals in the park. For 2023’s attendees, I showcased how to correct a convex nail and use Fast Forms, which offer a quick way to help build and correct nails. “I really enjoyed seeing nail techs from previous years, as well as new attendees. Alex and the team do a wonderful job organising the event, and I hope I’ll return in the future with new and exciting ideas to teach.” After a hearty lunch, Kirsty Meakin brought her distinctive vitality into the

EDUCATIONEVENT

DAY 2

Helena Biggs, managing editor at Scratch

I saw a sea of fiercely concentrating faces in Shepreth Wildlife Park’s education room, as I arrived for the second day of Nail Safari. Spread across three tables were the capybara, otter and aardvark teams – each represented by a different coloured apron and with a team leader to support. A scoreboard was present at the front of the room, with points symbolised by paw stickers for each team. These were gained by competing in fun tasks or showing progress or great skill within each session. Heads were down and a finger on each ranger furnished an extreme nail form, on which rangers sculpted Mino Vo’s signature Shanghai nail shape following a comprehensive tutorial from the pro. The award-winning nail stylist shared his competition experience and closely monitored the techniques of each attendee, offering guidance throughout.

class, with a focus on nail designing with inks. Kirsty set the room and talent alight, and cites: “Nail Safari: Talons & Tails was one of the most epic adventures of my life – and it wasn’t just because of the amazing animals. I was surrounded by nail techs who were hungry for knowledge and ready to break free from their comfort zones. There were so many good vibes, and I was on cloud nine the entire time, to the point where I contemplated never leaving. In fact, I ended up extending my stay just to soak up more of the incredible energy!” Nail ranger, Abbie Rozée, notes: “This was my first Nail Safari and I was nervous of the unknown. However, on arrival, everyone was so welcoming and by the end of my first day, I felt I had a new nail family. Before attending, I felt stuck in my career and had almost ‘hit a wall’. Now, I feel motivated, the fire and passion is back in my belly and I have so many plans about what to do next. The energy, passion and family-feel created at Nail Safari is like nothing I have experienced before. I can’t wait to return to Shepreth next year.”

The beauty of Nail Safari is that attendees possess a range of skill levels; some were industry veterans keen to learn new application skills, and some were in their industry infancy, enthused by the various nail styles presented to them at the event. “Nail Safari is a unique five-day event that brings together passionate nail enthusiasts and offers five full days of intensive nail education courtesy of award-winning global educators,” enthuses Marian Newman, Nail Safari co-founder. “Many of the rangers picked up an L&P brush for the first time with no pressure, and uncovered a passion for the system. Great personal achievements are the norm.” The Avant-Garde Nails session required the entire day, and was met with enthusiasm and awe. Techs were taken off for short breaks in between styling their nail to spend time with the animals at the park. Tonya Smith, who had flown from Canada to attend, enjoyed feeding two red pandas, and revealed that she had been most excited for Mino’s class, after learning about Nail Safari via Instagram. “Mino’s tutorial has been amazing,” she shared. “I have enjoyed refining the nail and decorating it in black and gold, and I wanted to take one of the red pandas back to Canada! I recommend Nail Safari to everyone: it’s worth the travel and the experience is a nail tech’s dream.” Back in the education room, extreme nails were finished with E-files and decoration, under the watchful eyes of Mino. “I returned to Nail Safari this year after attending the first edition in 2019 and it didn’t disappoint,” adds Claire Harris of Glamification By Claire, Borehamwood. “Mino Vo is a legend and I have loved working with L&P acrylic to create something beautiful from scratch.” Mino commented: “This was the best Nail Safari to date. The rangers were such a talented group and had wonderful energy. The finished work of the Shanghai shape they crafted was excellent. There is always fun and good memories made at Nail Safari!”

Tonya Smith

>> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 57

EDUCATIONEVENT

DAY 3

Rebecca Hitchon, senior news & features writer at Scratch Despite learning that some Nail Safari attendees had perfected their homework until 2am, I saw that spirits were high among pros upon learning of day three’s content. The morning session was hosted by Rebecca Isaac, who taught how to paint a llama character using the one stroke technique. She proudly displayed the nail designs that scooped her the Scratch Stars One Stroke Artist of the Year title for three consecutive years, putting her in the awards’ Hall of Fame. They served as a reminder of what can be achieved, not only with the one stroke technique, but by working hard to master nail skills. “For my one stroke masterclass, I tasked students with creating a ‘no drama winter llama’, wrapped up in a hat and scarf in the snow and featured across three nails,” Rebecca shared on the day. “I’ve loved teaching, as all attendees worked hard to understand the range of blends I showcased and how best to use their products and tools.” Rebecca used Be Creative One Stroke Pens, which she created in collaboration with brand owner, Rebecca Orme.

Clawgasmic Nail Network’s Chantelle Vermont demoing animal print designs.

“The Nail Safari class of 2023 was an amazingly talented group, with a passion for all things nails,” Rebecca Isaac continued. “What’s more, it was held in a beautiful setting surrounded by animals. I’m so thankful to have been part of it.” Rebecca Orme & Rebecca Issac

“After Rebecca’s one stroke session at Nail Safari 2022, where she taught how to paint parrots, it was interesting to use the technique to create a llama,” commented Sarah Blundell of Hertfordshire salon, Naughty Nails By Sarah B. “I could put what she taught previously into practice and take time to work on my technique. I returned for Talons & Tails, because my previous Nail Safari experiences helped me to adopt tricks that have improved my work, and the event brings together a beautiful family of nail pros.” Animal delights for day three included feeding capybaras: an experience adored by myself and Rebecca Isaac in particular, while others met the park’s aardvark family. Offering a break from the nail desk, attendees returned reenergised, inspired and with an animal-themed selfie or two to show their families and friends. The afternoon session saw Chantelle Vermont of Clawgasmic Nail Network lead a nail art workshop. Her first experience of Nail Safari, the delight on Chantelle’s face was instant as she was greeted by a pack of eager techs in the animal-themed education room. “I’ve absolutely loved teaching salon-friendly nail art designs for autumn and winter,” Chantelle told Scratch at the time. “The students were so responsive, kind and hard-working, and it’s been such a wholesome experience. “Educating at Nail Safari has been a highlight of my year. The venue was out of this world and the attendees were lovely. The room was filled with smiley faces and I could feel the fun and genuine bonds the guests made while there. It was an honour to be a part of it.”

Featuring animal print mixed with chrome, foil and swirl styling, five designs were showcased by Chantelle. As attendees followed her tutorials, she shared time-saving tips and how she’d adapt the looks for seasonal occasions. “Nail art is one of my favourite skills to practice, so I loved Chantelle’s advice and will put my own spin on her designs using different pigments and glitters,” said first-time Nail Safari attendee, Amy Lambourne of Reading business, Amy Lambourne Natural Nail Tech. “My first Nail Safari experience has been truly immersive. Before I arrived, I was able to join a WhatsApp group to get to know all those attending and I’ve made friends, tried new techniques and used products I’d never worked with before. The hands-on animal experiences were a great bonus and the goodie bags were extremely generous!”

“Nail Safari is not just an experience that is good for improving your nail art skills, but an experience that is good for your soul. It doesn’t matter what level you are; there’s so much to learn from every educator. I adored saying hello to the animals every day and was always given such a warm welcome by the organisers. I couldn’t believe how the friendships grew so quickly as we all helped each other with the classes, sharing tools and techniques with each other. I can’t wait for next year.” Sophie Donaldson aka @sophiescosycorner, Higham, Kent

58 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

EDUCATIONEVENT

DAY 4

Callie Iley, copywriter at Scratch On my arrival to Shepreth Wildlife Park, I was met by ranger & organiser, Alex Fox: just in time to watch two Nail Safari attendees feed a pair of red pandas. “Being amongst the animals is really special,” commented attendee, Gemma McCarthy of Gemini Beauty, Dublin – a Scratch Stars Gel Tech of the Year finalist 2023. “Nail Safari is an incredible experience, as it combines two loves in one: animals and nails. “The event has allowed me to make connections and meet like-minded industry people. It has such a fun energy and there is so much love and positivity in the classroom. The educators have given each of us time and attention and have been on hand to help throughout their sessions, with tips and tricks to use back at the nail desk.” Gemma’s enthusiasm for Nail Safari was reflected by all delegates within the Education & Discovery Centre. As I circled the room, I heard lighthearted chatter and business advice being shared, and techs offering each other support on the task set by Hazel Dixon, awardwinning nail artist & founder of HD Nail Artist Academy. She hosted a fantasy nail art workshop, showing the attendees how to create giraffe character, Melman, from the Dreamworks film, Madagascar.

all abilities, from newly qualified to advanced techs. All educators are highly skilled and ensure their lessons are planned carefully with precision, so that every attendee can learn and improve techniques. “It’s a relaxed and inspirational setting, offering both educators and students the perfect environment in which to learn and grow,” Hazel continues. “They make lifelong memories and take home an immense amount of knowledge and skills that they can use in their businesses.” I loved watching the Melman characters take shape, and it was fascinating to see Hazel break down such a detailed, intricate design into smaller shapes and pieces. All attendees were so friendly and it was a great opportunity to catch up with familiar faces, as well as get to know some new ones. Joanna Marshall, a first-time Nail Safari attendee, shared: “I’ve met some amazing people who I wouldn’t have been introduced to without this event, such as Tonya Smith from Canada. The best part of Nail Safari has been the connections I’ve formed with other techs, and the skills and knowledge it has allowed us to share with each other.

“Fantasy nail art is one of my favourite classes to teach,” “I’ve really enjoyed the fantasy class, shared Hazel. “It’s so much fun and while I found one stroke artistry and pushes skills to a new level. challenging, I managed to create So many nail techs feel this a design on a nail and for that I am type of art is unachievable and happy. The support from the educators impractical, and while I agree has been amazing and I feel like the that clients won’t wear this type event has given me friends for life.” of art in everyday life, the skills needed are invaluable and I acquired a Nail Safari apron and help refine salon work, such proudly wore it on my adventure as layering product, product around Shepreth Wildlife Park. My first and brush control, shading stop was the bat cave. When Alex Hazel Dixon showing the sculpting process for the and highlighting, referencing asked me if I wanted to feed some Melman character. from images and using mixed bats, I jumped at the chance. I also media. I loved watching the saw alpacas and otters, and watched progression of students from the start to the end capybaras hang out with ducks. of the day, achieving results they didn’t think I left Nail Safari feeling refreshed and with a were possible. renewed sense of creativity. It really highlighted for me the passion of the nail industry and “The environment that showcased the hard work, dedication and techs get to learn and determination of the attendees. They pushed work in at Nail Safari the boundaries of what they thought they could is a nail artist’s dream achieve, and it was inspiring to see. The wildlife location, with inspiration setting is so unique and offers a special way to everywhere. It’s one of reconnect with nature. Nail Safari really is unlike few events that caters for anything I’ve ever been to!

“The 4th Nail Safari was a joy for all: an environment of passion, love, laughs and learning. We always plan to under promise but over deliver, and we did it again this time.” Marian Newman SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 59

EDUCATIONEVENT

DAY 5

Organiser team member, Alex Fox The Friday frenzy began as a normal day of education. Marian Newman delivered her morning medicinal dose of science and theory, then Sandy Cheung arrived. The Japan Nail Association (JNA) judge, nail artist, educator, distributor & multi-salon owner brought fresh flavour to Nail Safari with a class on Asian-style bohemian art across five nail tips. Gifting the class some of her gel paints with a set of Japanese nail art brushes, Sandy delivered new techniques for nail styles, which were warmly received. Sandy Cheung providing support in her bohemian nail art class.

“Hats off to the exceptional hosts of Nail Safari! Your guidance and expertise have truly enriched the learning experience for all participants,” she enthused. “Congratulations to all those who completed the bohemian jewellery nail course. Your professionalism and meticulous attention to detail shone as you mastered various new techniques. I witnessed rapid progress and am amazed by the expertise of rangers. Beyond skills, the supportive community is commendable. Whether pursuing a career or enjoying nails as a hobby, I’m sure you’ll thrive.” Behind-the-scenes, the bat team began preparing for the Crystal Graze treasure hunt to precede the final class on crystal placement by Scarlett Senter. Sponsor, Crystal Parade, gifted a series of accessories, which were given to nail rangers who answered clues. These took them to certain enclosures where rhinestone pots could be found, which were swapped for gifts. “Nail techs embarked on a transformative journey at Nail Safari, where creativity met skill and innovation could thrive,” comments Scarlett Senter. “I was thrilled to explore the wild side of nail artistry, where passion and talent collided.” During the last class, a runway was created, a disco light set up and all rangers were invited to sashay down the catwalk wearing their Nail Safari nail creations from the week’s classes, with their chosen piece of sparkly attire. A light-hearted awards ceremony closed the week’s proceedings as tearful goodbyes were shared all round.

“Nail Safari is much more than nail skills, education and networking; it’s a full-blown immersion of self while building skills and making friends. It’s a nail, body, mind and soul experience.”

Dominique Sharpe, overall winner at Nail Safari: Talons & Tails 2023.

Nail Safari sponsors 2023:

Alex Fox

Scarlett Senter with Poppy Pennington of Crystal Parade.

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Nail Safari: Nails & Scales, which will take place 11-15 November 2024 at Shepreth Wildlife Park, has sold out. To join the reserve list, message the rangers via social media: /nailsafarieducationgroup

@nailsafari

BRANDSPOTLIGHT

Join the GelJunkie Support natural nail growth & create standout enhancements with GelJunkie, a gel polish range with a focused founder & carefully curated colour selection

Kate Driscoll

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n o i t u l o v Re A

dd together 18 years’ knowledge of nail tech needs with a passion for quality enhancements and great customer service, then sprinkle with glamour. What do you get? A gel polish brand set to turn heads and excite clients and pros alike.

GelJunkie, a long-lasting, high shine gel polish system, is spearheaded by successful salon owner & nail stylist, Kate Driscoll, who discovered a fascination with nails and colour after qualifying as a beauty therapist almost two decades ago. She went on to complete Level 2 and 3 diplomas in Nail Technology in Chelmsford, Essex, and her skills and business acumen shone so bright, that her tutor invited her to take ownership of her established client base.

Kate’s career continued to grow and she was approached by a hair salon seeking a nail professional to join its team. She worked from a small space, yet her clientele snowballed, so she bolstered this confidence to open her first salon, called Kate, in Maldon, Essex. Within six months the business had expanded rapidly, and a larger salon, KateLifestyle, opened its doors, offering an extensive range of nail services alongside a variety of luxury treatments. “In my journey from modest nail technician to proud owner of KateLifestyle, my focus has remained on quality and client satisfaction,” Kate shares. “At the end of 2022, I decided to launch my own brand, keen to create the perfect balance between providing must-have colours and formulas that support nail strength.

BRANDSPOTLIGHT

“I enjoy the whirlwind of creativity that this industry affords, and with GelJunkie I am continuing to honour my mission to offer beauty and confidence to professionals and clients.” “I have always had an eye for recommending the perfect nail colour to suit each client, so have curated a range of 100 gel polish shades to suit all seasons and cater to all. The GelJunkie range has been through a rigorous testing process and the hues are highly pigmented, offering a long wear time and high-shine finish.” Kate’s team of 10 salon staff members assisted with the naming of the shades; examining each gel polish colour to give it a character. “Several of the names are edgy and unusual, while others have been influenced by life experiences or a client,” shares Kate. “I am confident that new colours will be added to the GelJunkie collection to meet the demands of this ever-changing industry.” The three-step GelJunkie system includes base coat, colour and top coat. To meet clients’ needs for a formula that provides a strengthening overlay; protecting the natural nail so it can grow, Kate has also launched Create The Length (CTL). “Throughout my nail career, clients have asked me how they can achieve longer, stronger nails without extensions,” she shares. “CTL’s formula has been meticulously tested to support length and strength, offering long-lasting results every time. “To apply, first slick the GelJunkie Base Coat onto nails and cure for 45 seconds. Apply

a thin coat of CTL and cure for 45 seconds, followed by a slightly thicker coat, again curing for 45 seconds. Finish with GelJunkie Top Coat or a coat of GelJunkie Gel Polish colour and cure to finish.” It was also important for Kate to help ease the work of busy professionals. “While I was keen for GelJunkie’s bottles to be aesthetically pleasing, I wanted to make it easy for techs to find the colours they need,” she reveals. “A small window features on the front of the

bottles, and the addition of a colour label means that the hues can be identified – however they are stored. “I enjoy the whirlwind of creativity that this industry affords, and with GelJunkie I am continuing to honour my mission to offer beauty and confidence to professionals and clients.” www.geljunkie.co.uk @gel_junkie_official SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 63

TECHSPOTLIGHT

READERS GALLERY Horncastle-based nail tech, CHARMAINE CURRIE, unveils her passion for cartoon art & career aspirations

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

Name – Charmaine Currie Age – 35 Business name – Specialist Beauty Location – Horncastle, Lincolnshire Years in nails – Six Trained with – I completed an intensive beauty course with The Training Room, London, before achieving an ITEC Level 2 diploma in Beauty Therapy Treatments and a Level 3 diploma in Beauty Therapy. I went on to train with OPI and Bio Sculpture Gel, and started following Celina Rydén, a brand ambassador & educator for Light Elegance, on social media in 2019. I fell in love with the brand and subsequently trained in all Light Elegance systems. Favourite products – Anything created by Light Elegance! The range includes P+ Gel Polish, JimmyGel, Lexy Line, Glitters Gels and Buttercreams, so the brand offers something for every nail type and client need. Favourite nail technique – I enjoy sculpting with hard gel to create a perfectly structured nail enhancement.

Favourite nail design – I love painting cartoons onto nails while singing film soundtracks with my clients. It’s fun to sing while the cartoon creations come to life! Career ambition & vision – Last year, I closed my large high street salon and set up a cabin in my garden, with the help of my partner. This home salon space has given me the time to focus on my long-term career goals, which include learning various structure and art techniques. I also want to hone my skills to become an educator and provide one-to-one training in the Midlands, and use my passion for nail art to compete in boxed nail art competitions. Who do you admire in the industry? Jojo Wickens and Leila Monroy have taken on a huge venture as the distributors of Light Elegance products in the UK, and have immense passion, creativity and loyalty to UK Light Elegance techs. I admire the character nail design talent of Vivian Xue Rahey, Martina Biocco, Doina Florina, Giulia Rebellato, Priscilla Van Uden and Carlotta Zuin. I aspire to produce nail designs like them, and will continue my pursuit for artistic perfection. /SpecialistBeautySalon @specialistbeautysalon

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NOTES FROM NEWCOLUMNIST

h s i g Ner

ABOUT NERGISH

Nergish Wadia-Austin is a highly regarded international hair, beauty, spa and wellness industry expert. She has been a consultant and business management trainer for over 40 years, dedicated to improving service and retail performance worldwide. Nergish’s ability to identify and address business gaps, along with her commitment to high-performance team development and customer service excellence, make her a valuable asset for salons keen to boost revenue and improve operations. Her unique approach includes tailored training for leaders and nail, beauty and hair salon professionals. Nergish regularly speaks at business events across the globe and is a judge for industry awards. She offers courses via www.hairandbeautyexpert.com and is CEO & founder of PHAB Service Stars: a measure of excellence for hair and beauty professionals.

Esteemed beauty business consultant & trainer, NERGISH WADIA-AUSTIN, shares 5 top tips to entice nail clients to the salon

reetings nail professionals! I hope you enjoyed a satisfactory festive trading period. Over the next 12 issues, I will be serving up advice to help you boost your business results, kicking off with five ways to entice nail clients to your salon in the traditionally quiet month of January.

New year, new nail promotion

Offer a special January-only package that includes unique nail designs or exclusive colours. Highlight this promotion through targeted social media campaigns, and work with your suppliers to offer a January colour palette.

Customer loyalty rewards

@nergishwadiaaustin & @phabservicestars

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Digital gift card promotions

Extend the gifting trend post-holiday season by promoting digital gift cards at a discounted rate for January appointments. Encourage existing clients to treat their friends and family, to extend your customer base and boost January bookings, filling any empty spaces.

Interactive social media campaigns

“Capitalise the attention of on the post-holiday Maintain customers with interactive social media challenges relaxation mindset or contests, inciting by introducing them to share their favourite nail designs or winter-themed tag friends for a chance wellness to win discounted services. This not only generates packages.”

Implement a loyalty programme, where clients earn points for each visit, leading to a discount or complimentary service. This not only encourages repeat business, but fosters a sense of appreciation among customers. It works for coffee shops and eateries, and will work for your nail business. Keep this programme simple to ensure success.

www.hairandbeautyexpert.com & www.phabservicestars.com /nergishwadiaaustin & /phabservicestars

treatment, to create a luxurious pamper experience. Something as straightforward as a new hand massage technique, using tailored oils or hot stones, will counter the exhaustion of the festive season. You could even call it ‘overcoming December’s mayhem!’

Winter wellness packages

Capitalise on the post-holiday relaxation mindset by introducing winter-themed wellness packages. Bundle nail services with complimentary add-ons, such as a hand massage or aromatic

buzz, but gets your customers to engage in a fun way.

The key is to tailor the client experience to the individual to make them feel satisfied and valued, and you will see them return regularly to your nail station. Until next month,

WELLBEINGMATTERS

Scratch explores the importance of self-care & 10 ways to ensure you prioritise your wellbeing

Polishing up on

SELF-CARE

elf-care is crucial for all, and even the smallest acts can make a huge impact on the way you feel. Taking time out for yourself isn’t a selfish act or a bad business decision – it’s vital to maintain your wellbeing and promote a healthy body and mind, so you can perform at your best.

“Self-care involves making choices that contribute positively to your overall health and happiness,” comments health psychologist, Dr Ravi Gill. “Nail technicians often find themselves playing a dual role as they listen to clients’ personal stories, offering a Dr Ravi Gill form of informal therapy. What if all of your appointments one day are people talking about everything that’s going wrong in their life? Think about the heaviness that they offload onto you when sharing these burdens. Consistently listening to others vent or express negativity can affect your own mood and wellbeing. It’s important for us all to be mindful of our emotional boundaries and seek ways to maintain a positive mindset.”

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“Promoting positive mental and physical health is crucial within the nail industry,” agrees Wakefield-based nail pro, Natasha Katoro, who has also worked as an NHS senior manager for health & wellbeing, leading initiatives to support healthcare workers. “Nail technicians work long hours in physically demanding and Natasha Katoro socially interactive environments that can create workplace stress, burnout and mental health issues. “Stress from work can spill over into your personal life, straining relationships and causing headaches and fatigue. Creating an environment that acknowledges these challenges and works to provide resources to support can significantly improve the mental wellbeing of nail technicians. It’s also vital to learn to recognise early signs of stress and take proactive steps to address them.”

“Nail technicians often find themselves playing a dual role as they listen to clients’ personal stories, offering a form of informal therapy.”

WELLBEINGMATTERS

10 ways to practice self-care

Take regular breaks

Schedule breaks during your working day to recharge; whether five minutes between clients or a full lunch break to refuel and take a walk. Moments of self-care in between the bustle of a busy working day allow you to relax mentally and physically, and give you time to prepare for your next appointment. “We often feel pressure to offer more appointments to suit clients, especially around summer or the festive season, so it can be tempting to schedule clients back-to-back to accommodate,” says Dr Ravi Gill. “Taking regular breaks allows you to rest, recharge and maintain focus in your appointments, and can help manage the emotional toll of clients offloading.”

DID YOU KNOW…?

The Neurodiversity Leadership Programme by In Professional Development Ltd helps develop an understanding of neurodiversity and neurodivergence, including autism, ADHD, dyslexia, dyspraxia and more. The programme, which can be studied virtually or face-to-face in Manchester or London, teaches tools and strategies to create an environment in which all team members can thrive. For more information, visit www.inpd.co.uk

Consider your work environment Not only does designing your setup stimulate creativity by allowing you to work in a space that’s unique and inspiring to you, but it can help reduce physical strain from appointments. Investing in comfortable and ergonomic tools and furniture is a great way to alleviate issues caused by tekking, reducing the risk of repetitive strain injuries and keeping you comfortable during long appointments.

Dealing with back pain? Scan here to find out how two techs have created pain-free pedi set-ups.

Glitterbels Princess Single Nail Desk from £400 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

imix £43.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com The imix alleviates strain on the hands and wrists, as it mixes gel, gel polish and lacquer formulas using magnetic technology.

Establish a work-life balance and stick to it

It’s vital to set and maintain clear boundaries between your work and personal lives to avoid stress and burnout. Keeping a balance will allow you to schedule downtime, and helps to ensure your love for nails doesn’t wear thin due to overstretching yourself. “Striking a balance between your work and personal lives can be difficult, especially for those with family responsibilities or techs working in salons with extended hours,” shares Natasha Katoro. “Set clear boundaries with clients to manage expectations and prevent over-commitment. Learn to say no and set limits to protect your time and energy. Make time outside of work to relax.” “Establish a clear work-life balance by maintaining strict working hours and limiting work-related communication to working days,” suggests Dr Ravi Gill. “This is difficult, as we are online 24/7, but scheduling regular downtime away from work enables a mental break.”

Amy Ling Lin, founder of wellness-based Sundays Studio, New York, sought to find ways to support staff wellbeing beyond décor, and has labelled nail products by number instead of colour to do this. “It has been my aim to promote a supportive and stress-free work environment to enhance the self-care of my nail specialists,” she describes. “I witnessed a client threaten to slap a nail specialist who couldn’t find a specific shade, as the technician couldn’t speak English. This stuck with me, so it was important for me to find ways to prevent staff from facing criticism if they don’t speak English. I’m very proud of working with immigrants at Sundays Studio, being an immigrant myself. “We train our specialists to work as a team and have a full support system in place for busier times, such as weekends. All staff members wear name tags and are introduced by name to clients. During appointments, clients and nail specialists are seated at the same level to eliminate any hierarchy of staff being below the client. I want to make the nail salon feel welcoming and, in turn, a better place for nail specialists to work.”

TOP TIPS

Dr Joanna Lowry-Corry, chiropractor & director at London Wellness Centre, shares ways to ease the impact of sitting at your nail desk regularly: • Stand up or walk the client around your retail area during the consultation process. Dr Joanna Lowry-Corry • Vary the type of treatments you offer, or alternate with other staff members so that you are doing a combination of manicures and pedicures each day: not just pedicures, for example. • Take a short break after each treatment and move, sit or stand in positions reverse to what you do throughout the treatment. • Get up and stretch regularly to extend your spine. Work on quads and glutes, and bend to the side and rotate your body. • Put your client at a higher level where possible, such as on a raised pedicure platform or adjustable chair, to prevent you from crouching for each appointment. www.thisislondonwellness.com SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 69

WELLBEINGMATTERS

Keep informed

Staying up-to-date with the latest industry trends, techniques and training helps to nurture a sense of confidence in your work, and can spark creativity. Remember to renew your Scratch subscription and invest in regular training (both in business and nail techniques) to keep your skills at the top of their game. “Training helps to grow your skills, and increases your job satisfaction and belief in your work,” says Natasha Katoro. “It’s also important to keep informed about best practices for mental health to utilise effective coping strategies.”

Prioritise your mental health

The fast-paced nature of the nail world, from honouring appointments and answering client questions to running a business and posting on social media, can mean that mental health matters fall to the bottom of your priority list. “Although we’re grateful for clients, interacting with them all day can be emotionally draining, especially when encountering demanding or dissatisfied customers,” Natasha Katoro explains. “Managing these relationships requires continuous patience and the ability to be intentional with communication skills. “Mental health issues can lead to decreased concentration and a drop in your quality of work, affecting reputation and client satisfaction. If work suffers due to mental health issues, it could lead to reduced earnings, which can create a cycle of stress and financial pressure. If feeling overwhelmed, consider speaking with a mental health professional for guidance and support.”

Make time for regular exercise & mindfulness

Physical activity and mindful practices are two key elements of a good self-care routine. Schedule regular exercise and stretch throughout the week, and take time out to help recentre yourself with breathing exercises, guided meditations or a moment of quiet. “Incorporate mindfulness or other stress reduction techniques into your daily routine to maintain a calm and clear mind, and make time for physical activity to boost your mood and health,” recommends Natasha Katoro. “Use apps like Headspace for guided meditation sessions to help calm the mind between appointments, and follow online stretching routines, specifically for hands and wrists, to reduce strain from detailed work.”

Natasha suggests engaging regularly in activities that promote relaxation and enjoyment, such as exercise, hobbies or meditation, and setting clear boundaries with clients to manage expectations and prevent over-commitment. She recommends the following mental health resources: BetterHelp (for online therapy) and Talkspace (for therapy with licenced professionals). Happy Paul Mood Lifting Fragrance Blend in Bright Spice £45 inc VAT www.gerrardinternational.com

#FABFOLLOW

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

With a continued mission to support mental health with a smile, Happy Paul has unveiled its signature fragrance in an eau de parfum. The uplifting blend of essential oils has a gentle kick of spice to lift a mood, and each bottle features a citrine crystal: associated with optimism. 10% of Happy Paul profits are donated to www.youngminds.org.uk.

@byNatashaKatoro

Natasha is creating a sanctuary where wellbeing and beauty converge, so that every client leaves feeling refreshed and empowered. She is laying the groundwork for this through her Instagram business page, where she advocates daily self-care and shares tips and affirmations with followers.

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Wellbeing Journal £7.99 inc VAT www.homesense.com

Amy Ling Lin adds: “We believe that self-care and wellness go hand in hand, so incorporate mindfulness into nailcare at Sundays Studio by offering meditative manicures, to encourage clients to slow down and be present. During this service, clients can listen to their preference of guided affirmations or binaural beats. We also offer love letter writing to yourself, affirmation cards and have a mindful tea bar to help clients relax.”

WELLBEINGMATTERS

Network with industry pros

Building connections with other nail technicians allows you to bond with people with similar interests, creating a network of support and sense of community. It’s a great form of self-care, giving you endless encouragement and inspiration from a friendly face when you need it.

Focus on nutrional needs

A balanced diet with nutritional foods and plenty of water will support a healthy body and mind, aiding focus and preventing fatigue. It can be a challenge to remember to drink enough water, and when time is tight it can be tempting to swap a meal for a snack, but a well-nourished body is fundamental to self-care. “Set reminders on your phone to take water breaks throughout the day to stay hydrated,” Natasha Katoro advises. “Focus on maintaining a balanced diet that is rich in nutrients, and drink plenty of water.”

Following training with The GelBottle Inc, Natasha Katoro began an initiative to prevent feelings of isolation that can present in the industry, particularly for home salon or mobile workers. “Despite the social nature of the job, working independently or in a non-team-oriented environment with limited social time outside of work can create feelings of isolation,” she explains. “Building a strong community in the salon or outside of the workplace can help alleviate this, with regular meet-ups, social gatherings and industry events helping to foster a sense of belonging and provide a much-needed break from work. “Having someone who understands the unique stresses of a nail tech’s role can be invaluable. Peers can provide a listening ear, share their experiences and coping strategies, and provide emotional support,” she continues. “Discussions about work challenges, client interactions or even personal struggles can help reduce stress and feelings of isolation.” “If you’re struggling with feelings of loneliness, speak to colleagues around you or others in the industry,” recommends Dr Ravi Gill. “Sharing with others helps to build community, creating a sense of camaraderie that can reduce feelings of stress and isolation.”

National Trust Book: A Good Appetite - Eating for Planet, Body & Soul £14.99 inc VAT www.nationaltrust.org.uk/shop

Personalised Water Bottle – Think Happy £12.99 www.gettingpersonal.co.uk Gift Republic Digital Detox Cards £14.99 inc VAT www.very.co.uk

Take technology breaks

The 24/7 nature of social media can make it feel difficult to take a break. However, it’s vital to learn to step away and consciously unplug from the online world, to make time for self-care truly away from work. “Take breaks from your digital devices to help reduce stress and improve sleep,” Natasha Katoro explains. “I’d recommend choosing a day to disconnect from devices to give your mind a break from the constant stimulation. To support a digital detox, I recommend two apps: Freedom (to block distracting sites and apps), and Offtime (to schedule device downtime).”

Take a holiday Having a constant flow of clients to tend to can make it feel impossible to schedule time for a holiday, but taking a longer break to rejuvenate and recharge is necessary for maintaining great self-care.

“When was the last time you scheduled real time out for yourself?” asks Dr Ravi Gill. “When you’re working with back-to-back clients, it can be both physically and mentally draining, so it’s important to block out time to do nothing. Downtime is so important to maintain positive mental and physical health, and allows you to be the best version of yourself. It’s important to take time out and reflect on your days and weeks, and and make moments to engage in activities that provide a sense of balance and make you feel like you.” “While building my nail business, I constantly remind myself that self-care is important,” shares Amy Ling Lin. “My philosophy is to be gentle with yourself.”

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NEWCOLUMNIST

Power & Polish with Elevate your business & embrace new techniques with advice from the Scratch Stars award-winning OPI team

Belinda Price OPI education & capability manager @belinda_opi

Belinda’s top tips for 2024

• Invest in reputable training to boost your skills. Plan this training in advance and consider attending workshops (online or offline) to perfect trends and techniques. • Check your posture. I have purchased a gas lift chair and narrow nail desk to make my work life more comfortable. • Commit to one brand per nail system you offer, ensuring that they offer, ensuring that support is offered if you experience issues or have questions. • Focus on retail. Don’t think of retailing as selling; rather providing a complete service that includes serving and treating your clients year-round. • Charge your worth. Calculate how much you need to turn over per minute to pay your bills. • Try to ensure a good work-life balance so you can continue to enjoy your career.

t this time of year, there is a focus on starting afresh. Many of us set personal resolutions surrounding diets or exercise, or attempt dry January or Veganuary. But what about business resolutions? Use the ‘new year, new me’ mantra to reset your business mindset and make better choices for the year ahead. I own a salon: Nailspa in Huddersfield, and there are two things that are most important to my business, which I call the two C’s: cash (any money coming into the business) and customers. We need them both, so I’m kicking off 2024 by looking at ways to increase profit. I have invested in a new booking system and retail training for staff, to increase sales of products on my shelves. In previous years, I’ve also spent time looking at the cost of treatments to ensure maximum profits. Customers respect you for putting their safety and comfort first, so I recommend working with brands and business partners that can provide you with good education and support. At Nailspa, we are committed to using the full OPI GelColor gel polish system, but if you are not using a full system, I encourage you to research the importance of this, and why you should be using the correct lamp for your gel or gel polish nail services. After working long hours over the festive season and feeling the effects in my neck, shoulders and hands, I have assessed my workspace setup and considered solutions to improve my posture, while ensuring regular breaks. To start your business makeover for 2024, make a list of what worked last year,

DATES FOR THE DIARY 15 January – OPI GelColor professional class, Hull & Dronfield 22 January – OPI Diamond Gel professional class, Canterbury & Northumberland 5 February – OPI spring collection launch event, London 19 February – OPI Diamond Gel professional class, London 26 February – OPI Powder Perfection professional class, West Midlands Visit www.opieducationuk.com for all dates and locations.

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and what didn’t. You can also create a client survey; asking your regulars what they like about your business and what they think can be improved. This is very insightful and can often ignite ideas.

Goal-getting It’s important to focus on your own development, so write down your goals for the year ahead. Identify any dates that you could put aside for training, such as those that were quiet for business last year, and take a look at OPI’s course schedules to pinpoint when you need to book out time in your diary. Perhaps you’d like to add another service to your treatment menu, or look for a vegan nail lacquer to widen your retail offering? The opportunities are endless, so take the time to research brands or talk to your sales rep or distributor to see what’s available. I’m also an advocate of entering awards and competing, as the process helps you to see where improvements can be made. Not only that, but success in industry events adds to your credentials, raises your profile and makes your skills and services more sought after. Entry for the Scratch Stars Awards 2024 opens on 1 February, so read up on the rules and categories available and make it one of your goals this year to enter. Answer all questions on the entry form and make sure you meet the criteria. Each question will be scored, with the points added up to determine who becomes a finalist. If you skip something or don’t answer specifically, you may not gain points for that area. Happy new nail year, and all the very best for a successful 2024.

From Belinda and the team at OPI x www.opi.com /OPINailsUK /opinailsuk

WINNER

MULTI-PURPOSE

NAIL SAVER The popular keyring attachment that opens cans, parcels, supermarket trolleys and much more. Customised branding available for promoting your business!

YO U R YO U R YO U R YO U R LO G O LO G O LO G O LO G O

Attaches to your keyring!

Save the Stress. Save your Nails. Visit keysieco.com

Tech for TECH-NOLOGY

Techs

REBECCA HITCHON gets the scoop on high-tech launches, decodes hot topics & sources tech-savvy tips for your business

6 brands to watch in 2024 As technology develops, so does its uses within products and businesses – and I anticipate 2024 to be the best year yet for beauty-tech innovations. Here are six brands I’m keeping an eye on this year, all of which use technology to elevate the beauty sector and its businesses.

Polishpad Nail technician, Abi Bright, launched nail-focused booking platform, Polishpad, to help professionals streamline operations, Abi Bright automate administrative tasks and access tools to facilitate efficient business management, so they can focus on their craft. “Launching Polishpad was more than creating a booking system; it was about building a community, fostering creativity and contributing to the growth of the nail industry. We want to equip nail technicians with the resources they need to build profitable businesses,” Abi tells Scratch. Via the webapp, techs can create a personalised one-page website, where they upload services and showcase a visual portfolio of work. Clients enjoy a user-friendly booking experience with Polishpad, where they can view portfolios, read reviews and book nail appointments 24/7, as well as cancel or reschedule them. Abi aims for the app to be a hub for diverse artistry, offering a variety of nail specialities. Polishpad has big plans for the future, with Abi revealing that a reports page is in the pipeline, which will allow techs to set goals and track performance. “The ultimate goal is to create a comprehensive ecosystem, where users can not only book nail services, but nail products can be sold seamlessly,” she says.

www.polishpad.co.uk

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Hue

Have you ever struggled to find the right beauty products to suit your skin tone, type or complement your hair colour? When three friends in the US, Janvi Shah, Nicole Clay and Founders, Janvi Shah, Nicole Clay and Sylvan Guo. Sylva Guo, noticed that it was an issue that they and other beauty enthusiasts faced, they decided to launch Hue. The company helps brands embed user-generated videos featuring authentic customer reviews on their marketing channels, building trust with consumers who can see evidence that products will work for their beauty needs. Brands define who they want to review their offerings, then send products. These chosen Hue creators produce video, photo or written content based on their product experiences. For Hue’s Shade Matching Technology, the creators answer questions that are used to inform AI product recommendations. The Hue app can be integrated into a brand’s website – and from there, testimonials can be viewed and their results measured, along with those of ads using Hue content. Hue reports that websites featuring Hue’s technology see a 29% increase in their customer conversion rate.

www.poweredbyhue.com

TECH-NOLOGY

KIKI World

US beauty brand, KIKI World, places the customer at the heart of its production process, by inviting them to vote on which products the company should create, from picking shades to fragrances and even packaging. KIKI launched its first customer-voted product in May 2023: Pretty Nail Graffiti (PNG) in shade, Pearl. PNG shade, Liquid Chrome, was announced as the next voted product launch in August 2023. Pretty Nail Graffiti is a peel-off, odourless nail polish housed in an airtight pen, allowing for on-the-go application. Using SmartPen technology, PNG pens can be paired with customers’ accounts to earn rewards every time they are used. They also feature refillable aluminium bodies, and products returned for refills are rewarded with points. KIKI members who voted for the Pearl colour to be made last year were given a non-fungible token (NFT) collectible to unlock customer experiences in future, as well as $5 and double the points they received for voting to their accounts. Members who voted for other colours received a different NFT. At present, KIKI World only ships to the US, but invites people globally to join its community. www.kiki.world

EcoWise

Do you want your beauty business to be more environmentally friendly, but aren’t sure where to start or how to involve employees? Download the EcoWise app from sustainability consultancy, SaveMoneyCutCarbon, which helps small and large companies track their net zero progress. SaveMoneyCutCarbon research reveals that acting on climate change is important to 93% of employees’ sense of motivation and wellbeing, and 34% would increase their loyalty to employers if more information on how to be greener is provided.

Salon Manager Salon Manager encompasses business management tools in one handy software. Features include online booking and appointment management, customer experience tools (such as digital consultations, reminders and loyalty programmes), staff management, inventory tracking, accounting, marketing, reporting and analytics. Its goal is to enhance hair and beauty companies’ operations and elevate client satisfaction. The software is cloud-based, meaning it allows salon businesses of all sizes to access its features anywhere with an internet connection, including on mobile phones. A range of packages are available to cater Salon Manager to a business’ size and budget: Essential, Premium, Premium+ and Elite, and all include bespoke setup, unlimited online training, SMS and Salon Manager support. There is also the option to subscribe monthly or sustain prices for up to three years.

www.salonmanageronline.co.uk

EcoWise offers a programme for businesses to audit, track and lower their carbon output in the workplace and at home. Widely accessible, via customer support and financing, it features interactive assessments and 52 educational articles per year. It also shares tips on how staff can be more sustainable, while offering them discounts on eco-friendly homeware. Mark Sait, CEO & founder of SaveMoneyCutCarbon, comments: “It is crucial for employers to understand the generations who are increasingly turning away from roles that do not prioritise ESG (environmental, social and governance) goals. This will not only help boost productivity and retain talent – it will ultimately build trust and value for business.” www.savemoneycutcarbon.com/ sustainability-services/employee-education

COMING SOON: My Salon Angels My Salon Angels has been launched by Lucy Fulbrook of Lucy’s Salon, Academy and Glamourvan in Deal, Kent. During the pandemic, she conceived the idea for the cancellation-focused Lucy Fulbrook app, which she believes will solve a huge problem in the beauty industry. “Marrying cancellation spaces with a need for last-minute appointments can be hard. For nail and beauty pros, it is difficult to find last-minute replacements for cancellations, and this involves excessive time spent answering requests: problems that My Salon Angels serves to eradicate,” Lucy explains. “My Salon Angels will also be ideal for tourists seeking beauty treatments, who are not familiar with businesses in the area they are visiting.” The app will be free to download on mobiles in 2024, with a small percentage charged as and when appointments are booked for both professionals and clients. Once a client is booked in, they will be asked to pay for the appointment upfront. Lucy hopes to launch My Salon Angels across the UK, to be accessible to all. www.mysalonangels.co.uk

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BUSINESSMATTERS

WHAT

’S IN A

name? Explore how your business, treatment & product names can boost your brand with expert guidance & stories from the nail sector REBECCA HITCHON REPORTS

A name matters: it’s one of the first aspects of your business that clients note, and provides clues about its offerings. Whether you’re looking to start a business, rebrand or introduce new treatments or products, the naming process is crucial to ensure you attract and retain the right clientele. We’ve sourced expert naming advice, as well as nail industry case studies, to get your creative juices flowing and business profile growing.

Ask an expert

Award-winning website & brand designer, Liz Rochester Shaddock of Bit2Flash, reveals top tips for naming your business and treatments... Liz Rochester Shaddock

First steps

Before naming your business, work on your brand strategy. This includes fully understanding your business’ values, vision, and the demographic and preferences of your ideal clients. Your name should resonate with your target clientele, accurately represent your services and reflect your values. Conduct research on competitors, to avoid selecting a name that is similar or the same, as this could lead to legal issues and inadvertently direct potential clients to another business.

Increasing visibility Incorporate keywords that people are searching for into your business name to increase Google visibility, and register your brand with Google My Business. This free service increases your visibility in local searches and on Google Maps. If your name is unique, potential clients are more likely to find you when searching for your business online. Ideally, your name should be the same across all platforms, so check that the website domain name and social media handles are available. It’s vital to have a domain that matches your business name, as it can significantly boost your online visibility and credibility. If the social media handles are not available, I advise adding relevant keywords. 76 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Business name don’ts • Don’t choose a name that is difficult to spell, pronounce or remember. A straightforward, concise yet impactful name will help you to be discovered online more easily and encourage word of mouth referrals. Say your business name aloud and note how it makes you feel. If you’re hesitant to say it, you might struggle to promote your business. • Avoid generic names, as these can give the impression that you are unoriginal. Embrace creativity to distinguish yourself from the competition. • Don’t make the name too specific about the services you offer, in case you ever change the direction of your business. Also, ensure it holds potential value if you plan to sell the brand in future. • Avoid trending names, as they can become outdated very quickly. • If the name is an acronym, ensure it doesn’t have any unintended meanings.

Treatment names Avoid technical jargon that might be confusing to clients. Treatment names should be simple, cohesive across your business and communicate each service’s purpose and benefits, without the need for specialist knowledge. Go back to your brand strategy. If you’re a luxury salon, for example, your treatment names should reflect this. Consider the terms that would appeal to your ideal clients. Find out about Liz’s services at www.bit2flash.co.uk

BUSINESSMATTERS

Trademarking a name

CASE STUDY: Scratch

A name can be trademarked, providing protection as a way for a business, service or product to distinguish itself. Names shouldn’t be generic, offensive, misleading or similar to established names. Therefore, one of the best ways to ensure a trade mark application is successful is to coin a name.

“Scratch co-founder, Scott Derbyshire, tasked me with naming our new nail magazine in April 2003,” says Alex Fox, co-founder of Scratch & global director Alex Fox of Nailympia Competitions. “I had a list of 20 that ranged from The Nail Bible and Nail Encyclopedia to The French. I knew none of them were a fit for our style of trade magazine, with the tagline ‘Dare to Be Different’. Around this time, I found myself in a nightclub with a group of friends. As we were leaving, I asked my brother’s close friend, Nick Mellor, creative director of marketing & advertising agency, Honest Ideas, what he would call a nail magazine if he had one. He looked at me and said, ‘I’d call it Scratch’.” Nick Mellor on the January

An official trade mark allows you to take legal action against anyone who uses your brand without permission, put the registered trade mark symbol (®) next to the name, and sell and licence your brand. It must be renewed every 10 years to stay in force. To register for a trade mark, an online or postal application must be sent to the Intellectual Property Office (IPO), and there is a cost of at least £170. More information can be found at www.gov.uk

CASE STUDY: OPI On a LinkedIn post in 2019, Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, OPI co-founder & brand ambassador, shared an insight into the naming process for OPI nail shades. Suzi Weiss-Fischmann “Names help form an emotional connection with our customer, offering a literal ‘message in a bottle’,” she commented. “Our names have also served as a great form of advertising. Customers not only remember the colours, but ask for them by name.

2005 cover of Scratch.

CASE STUDY: This is Gel

Becci Abbott, founder & director of This is Gel, decided to name her brand’s shades after video game titles, characters Becci Abbott and settings, upon launching in October 2023. “In the saturated nail product market, it can be difficult to think of great colour names, let alone unique ones, so injecting my personality into This is Gel’s names made sense,” she says. “This will remain a theme throughout the brand’s ranges.

“Naming is such a fun and interactive process. Coming prepared and with props helps inspire us and keep our imaginations flowing. It takes a full day to name a collection, and the name for a single shade might happen very quickly, or might be deliberated, shelved and revisited. Many of OPI’s names are intentionally funny, designed to make people laugh, and others are imbued with personal meaning for their wearers – like Mimosas for Mr. and Mrs. worn at an engagement party, or It’s A Boy! and It’s A OPI GelColor in Suzi Girl! used to announce a pregnancy.” Takes a Sound Bath £19.90 + VAT www.opi.com

“The aim is always to ensure that the shade names are attractive and catchy, whether you understand the gaming reference or not, and for those who do, it feels like a hidden Easter egg buried in the brand.” This is Gel Gel Nail Polish in Kassandra, named after the female protagonist in Assassin’s Creed: Odyssey. Available for £13 inc VAT via www.thisisgel.com

ASHE London Nail Polish in Tessa £15 inc VAT www.ashelondon.com

CASE STUDY: ASHE London “Working in salons has meant that I’ve known the names of nail colours: from a practical point of view, it’s easier to ask someone to pass you a shade or remember what a client’s favourite hue is,” notes Ashleigh Alli, founder & CEO of ASHE London. “When it came to naming my brand’s colours, I wanted them to reflect ASHE London and what it stands for. ASHE means Ashleigh Alli the power to create change, so naming our colours after people who have changed the world was a natural decision. For example, we have a colour named after community leader & activist, Olive Morris, and one named after the first Black British woman to win an Olympic gold medal, Tessa Sanderson. Customers love the names, as they give each colour its own personality.”

“Keep names simple, unique, memorable and consistent for brand recognition. If unsure, ask a diverse group of people, including your target clientele, for feedback.” Liz Rochester Shaddock SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 77

FORD’S

NEWCOLUMNIST

Global business & beauty education expert, KIM FORD, shares news, views & observations from the international nail circuit

Thoughts Kim Ford has worked in the beauty and education sectors for over three decades, in more than 40 countries. She has honed her skills in beauty, spa, sports, nails, holistic therapy and aesthetics, in private and public education establishments, spas, salons and retail businesses. Kim has extensive experience as an international examination officer for awarding organisations, and has held the titles of chairman of BABTAC and CIBTAC and vice president of CIDESCO GB. An education consultant for CIDESCO International, she sits on a number of industry boards globally as a director or trustee, and has won awards for education and business in the UK and internationally. As owner of Beauty Enterprise Solutions, Consultancy & Training, Kim supports industry education establishments in gaining accreditation or endorsement. She strives to raise industry standards and help beauty professionals reach their education and career goals.

Who started the trend for nail polish, extensions & nail art?

Nail colour and design has historically been used for social codes and cultural appropriation. My research credits the Chinese with creating the first ‘nail polish’ in 3,000 BC, and finds that artificial nails were originally worn by Egyptian women as a symbol of status and wealth. In the 15th century, Incas showcased nail art: decorating nails with intricate pictures of eagles.

The influences

Nail trends vary from country to country, and the Vietnamese nail market is thriving. Many workers arrived in the US in the late 1970s and ‘80s to set up nail salons, and are renowned for their intricate designs and craftmanship. Celebrities and influencers have also had a huge impact on the growth of the nail industry. According to Fortune Business Insights, the global nailcare products market was valued at $22.34 billion in 2022, and is

OUT & ABOUT

A snap with Scratch’s Rebecca Hitchon.

Connect with Kim: /kim.ford.3114

I attended the NHBF’s Top 100 Influencer Index event at St John’s Church in Hyde Park, which acknowledged professionals who are positively contributing to the beauty sector. I caught up with Scratch’s Rebecca Hitchon, and congratulated Caroline Larissey on her appointment as NHBF chief executive.

@kimfordexpert

78 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

/kimcaford

Image courtesy of Top To Toe Academy, Malaysia

ABOUT KIM FORD

ello nail superstars! It’s a pleasure to begin my 12-month column series for Scratch with some international nail tales. I have been examining beauty students across the globe for over 20 years and seen amazing work by nail technicians, particularly in Malaysia, China, South Korea and Thailand. When I visited these countries, I noticed a huge number of nail venues offering manicures, pedicures, nail enhancements and nail art – often with stencils and airbrushing.

projected to grow from $23.41 billion in 2023 to $32.84 billion by 2030. Vegan, natural and eco-friendly brands are becoming increasingly popular, and I have witnessed trends for swirl nails in Malaysia, 3D nail art in Korea, chromes and metallics in the Caribbean, and Kawaii, anime and 3D abstract nails in Japan. Vietnam is showing a penchant for multi-dimensional embossed nails, glass nails and lotus nail art: an homage to Vietnam’s national flower.

Training talk

Most nail technicians in these countries will travel for high-quality training, to master advanced nail techniques and innovative designs. Many students I have examined for nail qualifications hail from the UK, Vietnam, South Korea, China, Japan and the United States.

Shaping up

In Brazil and the Caribbean, long toenails and coffin, round or gothic stiletto shapes with extravagant nail art are popular. It’s not my preference, but I have seen these looks in countries with warm climates, where closed toe shoes are not often worn. Fingernails are also long, and there’s a preference for lipstick or arrowhead shapes.

Asia’s nail art enthusiasm

In Asia, Korean gradient nails are making their mark. The style creates a smooth transition of colours, from the cuticle area to the tip of the nail, using a sponge to blend the shades and leave a soft and versatile ombré effect. Japanese 3D nail art is also popular, with additions including gems, pearls, flowers and bows to reflect the wearer’s personality. Those that request Chinese nail art welcome bold and vibrant designs with intricate patterns, symbols and calligraphy: a reflection of the rich cultural heritage of China.

Image courtesy of Top To Toe Academy, Malaysia.

Nail trends & tales across the globe

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SCRATCHPADS

SCRATCH PADS Standout urban style An alternative flair & graffiti feature wall make an impact for clients of Brighton-based salon, Coco Beautico. CHLOE RANDALL explores the space…

cool, edgy space with pops of colour greets visitors of Coco Beautico in Portslade, Brighton, which opened its doors last November courtesy of beauty fanatic & founder, Bryony King. The creative entrepreneur wanted to open a salon that reflected her personal style and suited the alternative vibe of the bustling city.

Bryony King

Following years of experience in the hair and beauty sectors, Bryony turned her attention solely to beauty, offering treatments from a setup in her home before making the move to the high street. While the salon is in its infancy, Bryony has big goals for Coco Beautico: determined to make it a destination for traditional and alternative

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hair and beauty treatments. She currently works solo as owner & head nail technician, and smiles when noting that she is also the business’ cleaner, accountant and social media manager. Coco Beautico is a spacious venue, and Bryony hopes to expand her team and employ professionals with diverse skillsets, including a tattoo artist, beautician and another nail technician. “I am excited about sharing my business with others, after working on my own for a long time,” she shares. “The décor of the salon attracts an artistic clientele, so the addition of a tattoo artist and lash technician or beauty pro will be an asset. Coco Beautico offers traditional beauty services, but is open to alternative treatments, such as tooth gems and tattoos.”

SCRATCHPADS

“I was keen for an urban influence but needed to be careful in the decision-making process, so that the salon still looked like a nail space. I had some fun with the design plans, and chose a graffiti wall with the phrase ‘relax your hand’.”

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 81

SCRATCHPADS

“Every nail technician puts a piece of their personality into their creations, and it feels great that clients book an appointment with me because they like my style.” Décor & design A dark grey colour scheme is maintained throughout the space, with a bold graffiti wall grabbing attention. Two black nail desks with gold furnishings are positioned in front of a neon pink sign showcasing the salon’s name, and artwork hanging in frames adds further pops of colour. Exposed white brickwork in two treatment rooms add to the calming ambience and urban style that the salon emits. The back room continues this feeling with a fireplace creating a homely, relaxing atmosphere. Bryony plans to use this area for pedicure services. The nail tech wanted to express her personality through the salon design, but found this to be quite challenging. “I was keen for an urban influence but needed to be careful in the decision-making process, so that the salon still looked like a nail space,” she reveals. “I had some fun with the design plans, and chose a graffiti wall with the phrase ‘relax your hand’.” Bryony sourced her interior decorations from local businesses and through Instagram, and asked a client’s partner to create the graffiti wall. “As someone who has grown up in Brighton, I found it hard to make a salon stand out in a place where there is already so much individuality, but I feel I have achieved this with the venue’s aesthetic.”

Client experience Offering an environment in which clients can relax is of great importance to Bryony. “The attention to detail and personal experience my clients receive is something that is positively reflected in my reviews,” she shares. “I want clients to feel relaxed when they visit Coco Beautico, and that they can talk about anything.” The business’ success with clients is showcased by Bryony’s full appointment schedule, and the salon owner takes bookings months in advance. “I am focused on creating an inclusive environment,” she adds. “I want clients to feel that they are catching up with a friend while enjoying their treatment, and that their needs are catered to, so I offer disabled access, gender neutral facilities and modesty treatments, should a client require them.” The nail pro specialises in builder gel services with hand-painted nail art, using The GelBottle Inc’s Builder In A Bottle (BIAB™) for the majority of treatments. “The formula is durable and supports the strength of the natural nail. My clients love it and many L&P acrylic fans have switched to BIAB™ enhancements,” she says. Bryony enjoys intricate nail artistry and working from designs or artwork that clients bring to their appointmens. “I love that my creativity and technical abilities are challenged,” she shares. Her enthusiasm and passion is something that clients return for, with her love for nails radiating through her work. “Being a nail tech is such a fun job,” she continues. “I find that it never feels like work, and is like catching up with friends with the bonus of getting validation for your creations. Every nail technician puts a piece of their personality into their creations, and it feels great that clients book an appointment with me because they like my style.” www.cocobeautico.uk 82 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

/cocobeautico

@cocobeautico

SCRATCHPADS

“As someone who has grown up in Brighton, I found it hard to make a salon stand out in a place where there is already so much individuality, but I feel I have achieved this with the venue’s aesthetic.”

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BUSINESSMATTERS

CAUSE FOR

celebration Is your business meeting a milestone? CALLIE ILEY explores the importance of celebrating achievements & shares how brands & businesses have honoured their success

Each day in the nail industry brings a unique set of challenges, so it can be easy to lose sight of your career progress and achievements. Whether you mark one year or a decade in business, or celebrate a salon opening or full appointment book, it’s important to recognise your achievements to reinforce a sense of pride in your business, self, employees and clients. What’s more, it helps build your profile and reflect on your success; supporting new goals and refreshing your passion for the industry. Scratch shares how pros and brands have celebrated their industry milestones to inspire you to recognise your own achievements…

FANCY FEAT Nail professional, Katie Moulton, celebrated 10 years of her Royston-based nail business, Fancy Fingers, with an event for clients. She invited them to join her for an evening of celebration, with sparkling wine, brownies from a local cake shop, and scratch cards so that each guest could take home a prize. “Heading into double digits was my first major business milestones,” Katie shares. “I wanted to thank my clients for their support, particularly after the pandemic. “Many of my clients attended, for which I was so grateful. They loved the prizes from the scratch cards, interacting with each other and comparing nail designs!” /katiefancyfingers

@katiefancyfingers

CND™ TRIUMPHS

The CND™ brand marked its 40th anniversary in 2019 with a series of global campaigns and events, and co-founder & style director, Jan Arnold, was guest editor for Scratch’s March 2019 edition, wearing a ruby red corset made from nail tips. The brand also brought back five classic shades for a limited time. The CND™ Iconic collection, featuring Company Red, Spike, Jiggy, Pointe Blanc and Satin Sheets, was offered in Shellac™, to make the formula’s 10th anniversary. Sweet Squared unveiled a campaign in partnership with Scratch, which saw Sweet Squared’s co-founders, Samantha and Samuel Sweet, on the cover of January 2020’s edition. The issue also featured photographs of industry pros selected by Sweet Squared to represent each shade in the CND™ Iconic collection. “If you made it to 40, celebrate, and if you made it to almost 45, celebrate and then some,” Samantha Sweet beams. “As CND™ enters its 45th year of innovation, it’s a blessing for us at Sweet Squared to be able to celebrate the brand’s successes. “CND™ allowed me to meet my husband; co-founder of Sweet Squared, Samuel Sweet. It led him to me through CND™ education and travel. It let us fiercely serve the pro here in the UK, and aim to be the best distributor partner for our customers. “Sam and I have represented the brand for 33 years. We have been through so much together that CND™ is literally our family. We share a rich history and a wonderful tapestry of memories that are forever entwined through our lives. Samantha Sweet

“Being part of the CND™ family has shaped our lives, and although things move and change, CND™ will forever be part of our history. Our customers in the UK feel this too. We have customers who started doing nails when nails were not even a treatment option, who have done so many things in their life because of nails and the education they invested in. Who wouldn’t want to celebrate such an honour? CND™ will forever be in so many peoples’ hearts, and forever in ours.” www.sweetsquared.com 86 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

/SweetSquared

@sweetsquared.nails

BUSINESSMATTERS

LA BELLE SUCCESS

Staffordshire-based business owner, Bethany April Henderson-Westwood, marked one year of La Belle Nail Studio with a jubilant post on her social media account. “Celebrating my first year in business was a very proud moment, especially because I had reached my goals sooner than expected,” she smiles. “I wanted to reach out to my clients to thank them, as they are the foundation of my small business, so I chose to post on my Instagram page. “The comments on my post made me feel very emotional. It was so nice to read that other people felt the same way I do about how far I’ve come, and they are happy for my success. It made me realise that I have the right people around me to continue doing what I’m doing. “I will mark all of my milestones on social media as it will be great to look back on in years to come, and I find it helps inspire those starting out in the industry. When I started seeing people doing well and marking their milestones, it helped me to stay motivated to do the same.” La Belle Nail Studio

@_labellenailstudio

OLMO’S ACCOMPLISHMENT

Emma Louise Matheson of OLMO Nail Studio, Scotland, shared a post to her Instagram page to celebrate one month of successful trading. “I was proud of what I had achieved in my first month and didn’t expect to have so many clients,” she says. “It was encouraging to see the Emma Louise Matheson amount of interest from the local community when I opened, which resulted in many returning clients, and I wanted to celebrate this.”

“I never thought being a business owner was going to be possible, so I felt it was important to mark this milestone as my business means so much to me. I’m also excited to look back at my achievements to see how far I have come,” Emma continues. “It meant the world to me to read the comments, as I realised how many people were rooting for me. These included fellow nail techs who I trained with, people I admire in the nail industry, and brands that I love whose products I use in my studio. “I am overwhelmed by the support from the nail community, and grateful to those who cheer me on from the sidelines. It means a lot to a newly qualified nail tech and first time business owner. Social media can be a daunting place, but it can also be a supportive one. “I will continue posting milestones on social media to document my achievements. I have days when I doubt myself, and want to use these posts as a reminder that I have achieved success.” /olmonailstudioltd @olmonailstudio

SHINE LIKE MICHAELA PHILLIPS

Home salon owner, Michaela Phillips of Michaela Phillips Gelalicious in Medway, Kent, scooped the Nail Artist of the Year title at the Kent Health & Beauty Awards last year. “I was so excited to share this achievement with my clients and family,” she reveals. “It gave my business additional credibility and boosted my confidence. “I posted about the achievement on my social media platforms so that it would be seen by a number of people. Showing my clients and followers that I am an award-winning nail artist makes it more appealing for them to book an appointment, and can lead to opportunities such as brand ambassadorships, features in publications and paid advertising. “Other milestones that I have achieved include over 15,000 followers on Instagram. Noting and celebrating achievements can help you reflect on success and focus on the next goal for your business. I like to get creative with a milestone post so that it is memorable. Some have involved balloons and a cake, as well as a giveaway to thank followers for their support.” /Gelalicious8Nails

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Delicate and dainty starburst nail art has been filling our social media feed, so kick off the new year with sparkling looks. Check out inspo from fellow pros…

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CHLOE RANDALL uncovers the hottest nail topics & tales across the ‘net, TV & social media & gets the scoop on celebrity beauty must-haves TOP PICKS FOR 2024 A report by luxury product provider, Beauty Pie, has revealed the top nail trends predicted for 2024. Get ahead of the game by perfecting the following nail styles: 1. Chocolate milk nails 2. Lavender chrome nails 3. Milk bath nails 4. Neon French tip 5. Oyster nails 6. Nude chrome nails 7. Balletcore nails 8. Pistachio nails 9. Metallic French tip 10. Double French tip

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Actress, Megan Fox, is known for her bold nail styles, and has been papped with 3D, tattoo and aura artistry. Her go-to nail tech, Brittney Boyce, sculpted a 3D chrome look last month, which spelled out ‘Boys suck.’

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CELEB Actress, Jennifer SPOT! Lopez, embraced the chrome nail trend for an appearance at the Elle’s Women in Hollywood celebration. Celebrity nail artist, Tom Bachik, used CND Shellac™ in Frostbite to perfect the nail finish.

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A SPARKLING MIX

Little Mix star, Jade Thirlwall, received a striking nail look courtesy of celebrity manicurist, Stephanie Staunton. She used Magpie Beauty Dazzle Dust over Get A Grip Base Coat in Peach for a twist on the traditional French style.

CELEB Session nail stylist, Michelle Class, created SPOT! an ‘oyster velvet’ nail style for actress &

THE MUST-SEE MILKY MANI

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LA-based nail pro, Zola Ganzoright, set out to create a nail look to match a YSL black sequin dress that she wore to the Academy Museum Gala in December. She chose OPI GelColor in Black Onyx to complement the look, applied over almond-shaped nails.

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AN LBD MANI

The Wonka film premiered in London last month and actress, Olivia Colman, who plays Mrs. Scrubbit, arrived with an antique gold nail style courtesy of manicurist, Robbie Tomkins, using Bio Sculpture.

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According to Instagram’s 2024 Trend Report , the third biggest turn-off for Gen Z is dirty fingernails. Encourage your clients to keep their nails clean to help their chances of scoring a date!

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singer, Lily Allen, for a fashion event. She used GELCARE products to achieve the desired finish.

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In a softer alternative to classic pure white, we’ve spotted sheer, creamy hues being used to create milky manicures.

A BIG THANK YOU

After three years writing the Nail Clippings column, it is time for me to say goodbye to my time at Scratch. I have loved writing this each month and seeking out celebrity looks and trends. Thank you to all who have engaged and shared their content.

Chloe x

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NAILDESIGNS

Brooklyn-based tech, @bigfreakyclaws, paints tribal patterns and hearts on nails, adding pearls for an understated tattoo-inspired style.

Birmingham nail artist, @nails.bab, who teaches tattoo style nail art, shows off her hand-painting skills on a nude base.

Actress, Megan Fox, showcases cherry-red enhancements with snakes, crosses and butterfly decals, courtesy of Brittney Boyce (@nails_of_la).

Fingernails in Translate tattoo styles into nail art designs with inspo from fellow pros

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Nail tech, Jodi Brake (@saucyclaws_jodi), who Session stylist, Michelle Humphrey (@nailsbymh), works within a tattoo studio in Canada, uses creates custom nails featuring dragon and its influence to create this fun pastel design. tribal patterns using Bio Sculpture shades.

Nail artist, @vivxue, from California, recreates the recognisable handiwork of American tattoo artist, Ed Hardy, on stiletto-shaped nails.

Edinburgh’s @deadlydaggers.nailstudio channels the classic American tattoo style to create anti-Valentine’s Day nails.

The traditional Japanese tattoo style, featuring various colours and creatures, inspires this design by Chile’s @vonknailart.

Chilean nail pro, Karina Quiroga of @punkynails_cl, highlights ‘old school tattoo’ heart, skull and scripture styles on short nails with a neutral base.

To be in with the chance of seeing your nail snaps on this page, share them with us on social media using #showscratch or email editorial@scratchmagazine.co.uk 90 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

IMAGE CREDIT: Nail artist: Èva Pásztornè Balog (@evaprofessionalnails) 2nd - Div 3 Extreme Poster | Photo: Zsolt Kőszegi | Model: Kitty Kovács | MUA: Ivett Orosz

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