Scratch Magazine August 2023 by scratchmagazine

AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT Distributed exclusively in the UK and Ireland with Love and Respect

NEW

AUTUMN COLLECTION Available in both CND™ SHELLAC™ and VINYLUX™ Long Wear Polish, these six new shades are an autumnal mix of warm pumpkin spices, earthy espressos and cool cleansing pastels. Available 7th August

Shop the new CND™ collection.

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S A L

H C T

! E C N A

The deadline to register for ONLINE categories ends Fri 11 August at 11.59pm BST

Arena & online

SCHEDULE

Fri 11 Aug: Online registration deadline Fri 18 Aug: Online submission deadline Fri 29 Sept: Arena registration deadline Sun 15 & Mon 16 Oct: All live arena categories take place at ExCel London Mon 16 Oct: Awards for all 17 categories at ExCel London

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Nails by @andreea_nails | Make-up @makeupby_shoshi With thanks to our Nailympia London partners

15 - 16 October 2023 @ ExCel London

Compete live in London or from your own nail space!

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8 ARENA + 9 ONLINE CATEGORIES

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@nailympiacompetitions Nailympia London 2023 is sponsored by

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Twenty years of... ®

d rs this issue – an e’re seeing sta as r, ve front co not just on our e the results of th d ile ve un ’ve we ’s ld or W ards and Scratch Stars Aw . 23 20 ns io tit compe Star Nail Artist

Issue 244 Managing editor Helena Biggs helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk Publisher Scott Derbyshire scott.derbyshire@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writer Chloe Randall chloe.randall@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writer Rebecca Hitchon rebecca.hitchon@scratchmagazine.co.uk Copywriter Callie Iley callie.iley@scratchmagazine.co.uk Art editor Jessica Wilkie jess.wilkie@scratchmagazine.co.uk Group sales manager Ian Archbold ian.archbold@scratchmagazine.co.uk Accounts Lisa Ebbens lisa.ebbens@scratchmagazine.co.uk Co-founder Alex Fox Editorial/Advertising office 1 The Courtyard, Market Square, Westerham, Kent TN16 1AZ

months culmination of six The results are the fle t re ct years m our finalists, bu of hard work fro ation. It has dic passion and de and the of skill-building, in both contests journeys of those the to be h d tc ou wa pr to ry makes me ve been incredible r industry pros. It ou t gs on am ie camarader ustry. a part of this ind unity of t forge a comm development, bu us try aid ly ind on t ise ra no s d on an Competiti cel in their craft ex to s for en ke rse all ts, readying ou lve like-minded nailis to press, we are ing ced – go un of no e an tim be standards. At the ar’s winners will ye s thi ich wh 42. at rs Party, p titles on page The Scratch Sta scooped the to o wh se tho t ou eck but you can ch tition arena, this into the compe ps ste g kin ta t – and us abou tions available If you feel nervo multitude of op a e ar e Great re Th r the t fo e tha el. The dead lin is your reminder confidence lev so d st, an gu als Au go 31 ur is one will suit yo t competition ographic nail ar of winning ot ce ph t an Ou ch t oo the Sh th Scratch shot to be in wi ring ept and snap a en for entry, offe consider a conc pia London is op m ily Na g in e, or ttin m se ’s e at liv a Wh . in a cash prize a online entry) or pete remotely (vi ss socia l m ed ia. chances to com challenges acro fun es ot om pr h benefits. tc ra and explore the October, and Sc competing pool the o int es to ur So, dip yo as we love Scratch team, ccesses with the su ur yo os. e pr ar w sh llo turn, inspire fe Don’t forget to vements and in hie ac ur yo n to champio Good luck with

your next steps!

T: +44 (0) 1959 547 000 ISSN 2635-0327

Do you need to renew or update your Scratch subscription? Call +44 (0) 1580 883 844

Contributors Olena Öezman, Carter Rogers, Maddi Cook, Clare Woodcock, Denise Spragg, Hari Hatfield Subscriptions Curwood CMS Ltd T: 01580 883844 Printer The Magazine Printing Company Mailing House Mailing & Fulfilment MK Ltd

Helena Biggs Managing editor +44(0)1959 547 000 helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk

Images courtesy of Artistic Nail Design Shades shown are Groovy Days Ahead, Just Kickin’ It, Sun’s Out, Top Down, Bring The Heat, Stunt In My Shades and Chasing Grays from the Sunny Daze collection, available in Colour Gloss, Colour Revolution and Perfect Dip formulas. Available via www.louellabelle.co.uk

COVER CREDITS Photographer: Lena Gerber

@elgervideophoto

Make-up artist, hair stylist & model: Veronika Könitzer @kvamakeup Nail stylist: Olena Öezman

@olena_oezman

www.scratchmagazine.co.uk www.olympiabeauty.co.uk www.nailympia.com The publisher of Scratch magazine has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the information detailed in Scratch is correct at the time of going to print, and while every care is taken to avoid inaccuracies, the publisher does not accept responsibility for any errors or omissions from any information within this or previous editions. © 2023 SEED PUBLISHING LTD

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Contents AUGUST 2023

FEATURES 18 28 32

Star Quality

Multi award-winning nail pro, Olena Öezman, shares her success story & the creative process behind this month’s front cover .

Hi, Barbie!

Embrace the Barbiecore trend & pay homage to the Barbie movie with pink nail products & on-trend designs

The World’s Star Nail Artist: Meet The Top 5

As the first season of WSNA wraps up, meet the five talented pros whose skills led them all the way to the final

34 38 42

Fashion Week Wisdom

Session nail stylists share top tips for taking steps into the Fashion Week world & reveal what to expect behind-the-scenes

Zero: The Hero

Check out Zero, the hypoallergenic gel polish range from The Manicure Company that promises over 14 days’ wear

The Scratch Stars Awards 2023: Winners Announced!

See who shone across 18 categories in the only awards solely dedicated to recognising nail pros & businesses in the UK&I

50 54

Builder-Bel Bonanza

Join Scratch at the Glitterbels Builder-Bel party in Manchester, held to celebrate the launch of the 60-piece range

The Great Scratch Shoot Out: Finishing Touches

Perfect your entry to Scratch’s worldwide photographic nail competition with 10 key pointers & notes from pros

58 66 72 76 82 84 88

Elevate Your Style

Spruce up workwear options with seasonal picks & recommendations to suit your style & needs

REGULARS

Take A Break

The importance of annual leave is assessed, alongside the impacts of not taking the full allowance

Nail Nation

The Hot List

Understand employees’ rights & how to support them throughout the stages of the maternity journey

The Scratch Scoop

Expert Advice

Now Trending…

Through The Keyhole

Explore how nail trends are dictated & stay one step ahead of the curve with a focus on sources & seasonal designs

Tech For Techs

The Mobile Club

Pamper & Party

Readers Gallery

How To Boss Your Salon

The Halo Effect

Tech Talk

Nail Clippings

Fingernails In Focus

Managing Maternity

Discover how hosting pamper parties can boost your business & key considerations before you promote

Pinterest Power

Amp up your knowledge of image sharing platform, Pinterest & learn how to use it to your advantage as a nail pro

Into The Extreme

Delve into the realm of extreme nail styling with expert advice & admire the work of those excelling in the craft

Nail NATION

business

news & views

UNiDAYS partners with the British Beauty Council to support key areas of growth Student affinity network, UNiDAYS, has partnered with the British Beauty Council to support its efforts in solving the challenges facing the beauty industry and its key growth pillars. The company will specifically focus on the Future Talent Programme, which is dedicated to ensuring that clear and diverse beauty career pathways are promoted to young people. As part of the patronage, Paul Kingsley, chief financial officer & member of the executive team at UNiDAYS, has been appointed to the British Beauty Council’s advisory board. He comments: “UNiDAYS enables the student experience, and this collaboration demonstrates our Paul Kingsley commitment to an industry that is highly valued by our student network. It’s a pleasure to be working with Millie Kendall OBE and to have the opportunity to work alongside such an influential and inspiring group of industry figures.” UNiDAYS has also sponsored the British Beauty Council’s Value of Beauty report 2023, which reveals the economic impact of the personal Millie Kendall OBE care industry. Millie Kendall OBE, CEO at the British Beauty Council says: “We greatly admire UNiDAYS’ commitment to young people in enabling them to be their best selves in education. The British Beauty Council’s ambition is to ensure the beauty industry is recognised and valued by all consumers, and the student generation is core to this. We’re elated to have UNiDAYS join our esteemed patrons in aiding our mission of ensuring all industry sectors thrive.” www.britishbeautycouncil.com

BABTAC supports inclusivity in salons with best practice document The British Association of Beauty Therapy & Cosmetology (BABTAC) is helping salon owners and beauty professionals to create gender inclusive, safe salon spaces, with the launch of a best practice salon document. With support and insight from Sam Marshall, gender inclusivity expert & founder of Be Trans Aware training, the industry body has created the Diversity & Inclusivity Best Practice Guide for its 10,000 members, providing tangible steps to creating welcoming and safe spaces. Sam Marshall Commenting on the importance of gender inclusivity within the beauty industry, Lesley Blair MBE, CEO & chairperson of BABTAC & CIBTAC, comments: “As beauty therapists, our very purpose, regardless of what treatment we perform, is to improve our client’s overall wellbeing, including boosting Lesley Blair MBE their self-esteem and self-confidence. “Intolerance or ignorance should have no place in our salons, so making sure we’re always reflecting and improving our businesses to be more inclusive is key to holding us accountable.” The Diversity & Inclusivity Best Practice Guide is available to BABTAC members. www.babtac.com

Education portal launches to connect beauty learners with quality education opportunities Nail sector veteran, Sue Davies, has teamed up with online & marketing specialist, Diane Hughes, to create Nabuno, a salon industry education portal dedicated to connecting learners with approved, quality education opportunities. The portal was founded to inspire and promote good education practices within the salon industry and create a singular platform for high-quality courses, resources and information. The aim is to help learners enhance both their skills and business acumen. “We connect our learners with high-quality education providers on our portal and across social media channels, so when a course is on the Nabuno platform, that course and its provider will be working to our Sue Davies professional code of practice,” comments Sue Davies. Nabuno is aimed at all levels of salon professionals. On the portal, users can also enjoy the Nabuno community and browse The Oracle, a library of information about salon education and what to look for in a course. Three membership plans are available, with various benefits for education providers, and Nabuno is currently accepting founder memberships for a limited time while in the launch phase. Once registered, education providers can upload their courses to the system for learners to view. www.nabuno.com

10 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

business

Nail NATION

Anti-domestic violence salon training commemorates two years since UK&I launch Shear Haven anti-domestic violence salon training is celebrating the second anniversary of its launch in the UK & Ireland. Co-founded by Nashville-based salon owner & stylist, Susanne Shepherd Post, Shear Haven is an initiative of YWCA Nashville & Middle Tennessee. The programme equips stylists with the knowledge and resources to recognise the signs of domestic violence, successfully navigate conversations with clients who may be in danger, and pass along tools that can help them get to safety. “We have been overwhelmed by the response to our Shear Haven initiative within and outside of the beauty industry,” Susanne comments. “Domestic violence impacts countless lives, and this training provides the tools many of us didn’t even know we needed. We must keep having this conversation and providing the resources to empower practitioners to respond appropriately.” To date, Shear Haven training has been accessed by professionals over 92,000 times, educationg salons, stylists and therapists in over 100 countries around the world. The training consists of a 20-minute online session followed by a short quiz. After completion, each participant receives a personalised certificate of achievement. In the past year, Shear Haven formed a partnership with Dermalogica (UK & Ireland) to help ensure that all professional skin therapists are trained to spot the signs of domestic violence and know how to respond appropriately. Shear Haven’s UK & Ireland ambassador, Liz McKeon, comments: “I would like to express my heartfelt thanks to the amazing industry professionals who have supported this life-saving initiative. I want to acknowledge the many business owners who have encouraged their teams to download the training, helping to increase awareness about the important role stylists and therapists play in Liz McKeon clients’ lives.” To access the training, visit www.lizmckeon.com or www.shearhaventraining.org

12 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

UK distributor announces rebrand to expand its product portfolio KLM Marketing, which has been distributing beauty, skincare and spa brands for over 30 years, has rebranded to Beauty & Skincare Essentials. The move offers a distribution and marketing hub for innovative brands seeking distribution in UK salons and spas. While long-term associations with beauty brands, Australian Bodycare and Phytomer continue, Beauty & Skincare Essentials ushers in an era to evolve and modernise the business, and expand its expertise and ^ offering to existing and new brands. “After KLM was acquired in 2019 following a management buyout, we reimagined our business and offerings to beauty and spa brands, while expanding into cosmetics and other wellbeing sectors,” says Fiona Peerless, managing director. “Covid interrupted our momentum, but the recent addition of new brands means now is the perfect time to focus on the future.” Eco and vegan-friendly lip balm brand, Beauty Made Easy, and Spanish aromatherapy brand, Alqvimia, have been added to the Beauty & Skincare Essentials family. “These additions enhance our repertoire and present more opportunities to salons and spas looking for natural and environmentally conscious brands,” Fiona continues. www.beautyandskincareessentials.com

pleasure

Nail NATION Gerrard International’s Mandy Cook marks career milestone Mandy Cook, sales director at Gerrard International, distributor of Mii Cosmetics, Jessica and BeautyLab, is celebrating 30 years at the company. Mandy is actively involved in all areas of the business, from training to product development, promotions and sales. She also leads the team of area managers, who support over Mandy Cook 5,000 spas and salons across the UK. “I started my career as a hairdresser and manicurist, and saw the job at Gerrard International advertised in The Grocer magazine,” Mandy recalls. “I love nails and sales so it really appealed to me. I started as an area manager, before progressing to regional manager and then sales director.” Mandy has witnessed the expansion of the Gerrard International portfolio, and works closely with salons and spas to deliver what therapists, owners and clients want. She says that her favourite part of working for the company is being part of the Gerrard family, and working alongside chair, Susan Gerrard, to deliver her vision of revolutionising the nail sector. “Mandy embodies our company ethos which is, and will always be, to listen, learn and improve,” shares Susan. “I believe this has enabled us to grow and will allow us to continue to shine. “Mandy’s professional sales ability, together with her empathy and warm, caring personality, has gained her respect and love throughout the beauty industry. Personally, I have gained a true and loyal friend over the 30 years and we have shared fun, laughter and tears through the various episodes of our lives.” www.gerrardinternational.com

Newton Luu with daughters, Megan and Logan Luu, and wife, Jackie Truong.

LeChat Nails celebrates 30 years in business Professional nail brand, LeChat, marked 30 years in the business with a glamorous party in Las Vegas. LeChat, meaning ‘the cat’ in French, was founded by Newton Luu, a former manager of three salons, in 1993 in the San Francisco Bay Area. The aim was to service salon and spa professionals with high quality, innovative products, and LeChat continues to attain all that it stands for: Learn, Experience, Create, Help, Achieve, and Teach. LeChat’s co-founder, Jackie Truong, wife of Newton, supports the development and execution of product strategies and supervises product quality assurance. The couple’s daughters, Logan and Megan Luu, also work for the brand, and joined them at the celebratory party. LeChat offers a vast portfolio of nail products, from nail lacquer to gel polish, powder nails, L&P acrylic, nail art and accessories. The party on 12 July welcomed LeChat ambassadors from across the globe, as well as salon users and fans of the brand. Scratch’s managing editor, Helena Biggs, and publisher, Scott Derbyshire, were in attendance alongside Olympia Beauty show director, Ian Archbold. Guests listened to speeches from the Luu family and watched a presentation by two wealth advisors from JPMorgan Chase, before a nail art auction took place. Attendees danced late into the night to celebrate the brand’s legacy. www.lechatnails.com

NAIL & BEAUTY BITES The GelBottle Inc has partnered with wholesale hair and beauty supplier, Ellisons. Over 250 of the brand’s gel polishes, BIAB™ shades, nail essentials and accessories are available to purchase alongside over 50 salon-matched Peacci‘ nail polishes. www.ellisons.co.uk 14 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Permanent make-up and microblading brand, Everlasting Brows, is celebrating its 10-year anniversary. Founded by Kintija Belska and Monika Ludwiczak in 2013, Everlasting Brows services are available at over 3,000 salons nationwide and in 15 countries worldwide. www.everlastingbrows.com

Hair and beauty product provider, Renscene Ltd, has launched Barbicide salon window stickers, to help businesses reassure clients that hygiene is a priority. Available via www.hairproducts.co.uk

Magpie Beauty educator, Ruth Munro, scooped the title of Educator of the Year at the Scottish NBL Awards. Ruth, who is based in Inverness, Scotland, has been teaching for Magpie Beauty for six years. She was also a finalist in two Scratch Star Awards categories for 2023: The Nail Business Mentor Award and The Shooting Star Award. www.litteblankspaces.com

DATES FOR THE DIARY 31 August The Great Scratch Shoot Out: Entry deadline

MODELONES COLLABORATES WITH TOM BACHIK ON COLOR CUBE COLLECTION US nail brand, Modelones, has collaborated with three influencers on its Unlock & Unleash Color Cube collection. The three palettes of gel nail paints are supported by celebrity manicurist, Tom Bachik; Touch actress, Saxon Sharbino, and freelance make-up artist & content creator, Joaco Vazquez. A spokesperson for the brand comments: “The Color Cube collection is a clarion call to artisans and enthusiasts alike, to liberate their creativity and discover uncharted territories of self-expression. A solid cream gel polish formula, these palettes are designed for everyday wear in any scenario.” To use the product, prep the nails, apply Modelones Base Coat and cure. Pick up a bead of colour from the palette with a gel brush, and paint a thin coat onto the nail before curing. Repeat the process and finish with Modelones Top Coat. www.modelones.com

Image courtesy of Linkedin.com

Threads app considered a benefit to small businesses Meta has launched Threads, a social media platform and social networking service that offers users the ability to post and share text, images and videos, and to interact with other users. It surpassed the 10 million user mark in seven hours. By comparison, it took Instagram 355 days and Twitter 780 days to reach this amount. “Threads is an opportunity for small businesses to increase visibility for their brand, with updates on products and services, plus company news,” comments Jon Morgan, CEO & editor-in-chief of consulting firm, Venture Smarter. “Businesses with a good level of brand visibility and awareness have an edge over competitors, because this helps to influence customers’ decisions. “Now is a good time for small businesses to start posting, while there remains a lot of hype around Threads. The algorithm may promote their posts to a Jon Morgan wider audience than when bigger brands get on board.” Morgan also reveals that the app is great for customer engagement and market research. “By looking at what people are talking about on Threads and monitoring what competitors are doing, small businesses can gain valuable insights that might have been overlooked previously,” he continues. “This information can highlight consumer pain points, improve products or services and identify new market opportunities.” In an Instagram live with Scratch, Alicia Humphreys, owner of Pink Fox Salon Socials, also shared her thoughts on Threads, commenting: “Threads links to Instagram, so it’s very easy to pull followers over. You can also cross-post from Instagram to Threads and the other way around: both stories and to your feed. It is a working development; there’s a lot to come because you can’t search or use hashtags yet, but from what I’ve seen it’s going to come and it’s going to come quick.” Alicia Humphreys Download the Threads App via the Apple Store or Google Play.

Time is ticking! Gather a creative team and submit your entry to Scratch’s annual photographic nail competition. With no set theme, this is your chance to snap a unique concept in the bid to win a cash prize. Turn to page 54 for some handy competition tips! www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/ shootout

17 September BABTAC & CIBTAC Awards BABTAC’s awards gala dinner and celebration returns to the Fairmont Windsor Park Hotel, Surrey, with 19 awards categories focusing on industry excellence, determination and strength. For tickets and information, visit www.babtac.com

26-30 September The Hair & Beauty Charity Bike Ride Raise funds for the Hair & Beauty Charity, and have fun while doing so, at its annual bike ride in Ibiza. Tickets cost £600 per person, with a minimum fundraising donation of £300 to go directly to industry professionals. www.hairandbeautycharity.org

15-16 October Nailympia London Whether you’re keen to compete remotely or in an arena, register your entry for Nailympia London to see if you could walk away with a medal or trophy. Registration deadlines are 11 August (online categories) and 29 September (arena categories). www.nailympia.com

15-16 October Olympia Beauty Discover new products, techniques and innovations at autumn’s biggest beauty trade show, held at ExCel London. Presenting an ideal networking opportunity, register for your free ticket at www.olympiabeauty.co.uk

Salon marketing pro unveils highly anticipated second book Ryan Power, co-founder of mentoring community, Salonology, has launched his second book: The Successful Salon Marketing System. The book reveals the marketing system that Ryan and wife, Hollie, used to fill all nine columns of their own day spa and salon for a number of years, allowing readers to use it as a template for their own business. “If you’ve ever struggled to attract clients – the right clients – or struggled to keep them coming back time and time again, then this book is for you!” Ryan comments. The Successful Salon Marketing System is £14.99, available via www.salonmarketingbook.com/system SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 15

COVERSTORY

STAR

Quality

Nailympia global champion, Olena Öezman, shares how she shot to success in the nail sector & reveals the creative process behind the star-shaped nails on this month’s front cover CALLIE ILEY REPORTS

aving been a nail biter for most of her life, Olena was attracted to the nail industry by her desire for beautiful natural nails. On leaving a nail appointment, she found herself unhappy with the results, prompting her to train to care for her own nails. In 2007, Olena opened her own salon to huge success, tending to up to 14 clients a day, alongside managing several employees and selling nail supplies online, supported by her husband. Although she already had a busy schedule, Olena sought more adrenaline from her role, and made the decision to step into the competition arena, where she continues to excel. “Competitions open my eyes to new ways to create nails,” she shares. “They help me to identify areas for growth, and to discover new aspects of the industry.” The talented pro credits her professional growth to self-discipline and development, examples of which were set by her parents. In the nail world, Elena Popova has supported her as a trainer, and as Olena

18 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

continues to take part in competitions as a judge and competitor, she also teaches online courses via the Olena Öezman Nail Academy, founded in Berlin. “I spend a lot of time creating new projects, working with my team and creating courses for my academy,” she explains. “Life is about balance, so I ensure I step away from the nail desk and spend plenty of time with my family.” Olena has worked with Akzentz products since 2009, using nail systems including gel, acrygel and L&P acrylic, alongside her own brand, offering nail tools created with comfort in mind. She invested personally and financially into her education in both nails and teaching, noting that knowing how to do something is different from knowing how to teach it. “I left teaching for a while to learn how to present techniques to others in a way that they can absorb and implement on their clients,” she shares. “I have learned how to create a model of my skills using Meta language so that students can learn as much as possible in my classes.” Keen to support those who strive for more, and help fellow nail pros reach their dreams and goals, Olena enjoys that she is able to share her skills and knowledge. “I love the limitless possibilities in the nail world, and that I can create something new at every appointment,” she smiles. “The nail industry challenges you to grow in a number of ways, but I mostly love that I have been able to make so many friendships and connections over the years.”

COVERSTORY

“I recommend that techs compete at least once. It can add so much value to your professional and personal life.” Nail talk “I find inspiration from everything around me. Such as nature, architecture and fashion. The most important thing when creating a nail design is to think outside of the box,” Olena recommends. “Find your inspiration, and then consider how to incorporate it into a nail style.” Olena chooses to wear a short, nude nail, but shares that her favourite look to create is a French finish. “I admire nails with exceptional structure, whether they are extreme or classic styles,” she shares. “I don’t believe that I have a signature look, but people tell me that they recognise my work while scrolling on social media or while competing. So, I probably do have a signature nail style, and a footprint in the nail industry sand.”

Competitions Placing in a number of international competitions and achieving over 50 first-place wins, Olena comments: “I recommend that techs compete at least once,” she shares. “You never know how you’ll personally react in an intense environment, such as a competition arena, if you only rely on the experiences of others. It can add so much value to your professional and personal life, through travelling, making new friends, growing as a professional, exploring new techniques, developing stress management skills and so much more.” Outside of nails, Olena has a keen interest in neuroscience, at times combining the two interests. “From the point of neuroscience, our brain wants to protect us from unpredictable circumstances to keep us safe, so fear and excitement are normal. So, even a very experienced competitor has such feelings. I think it’s good because it indicates growth, demonstrates the value of the event and proves that it’s a challenge. “Every win is special to me because each is connected to learning something new. Every experience I have competing is full of great memories that I cherish,” Olena beams. “When practicing for a strict competition in Russia, I had a habit of continuously removing dust, even when it was not necessary. It took a lot of time and concentration, and my trainer always pointed out this habit to me,” Olena recalls. “I was preparing my table to compete, laying out my tools and products. I was only permitted to use the items on the table. Working with gel, I began my filing routine after sculpting the nails and removing the sticky layer, before realising I didn’t bring my dust brush. I finished the nails without the brush and placed first. This was the best lesson for me, as while the dust brush was helpful, but I didn’t need it as much as I thought.”

>> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 19

COVERSTORY

The front cover The innovative and striking star-shaped nails were developed by Olena for the Nailympia Online 2021 Invent A Nail Shape category. “Unfortunately, my star nails didn’t succeed in the competition, but when one door closes, another one opens, and they’re getting their glory on the cover of Scratch magazine.” It is also timely that her star-themed front cover coincides with the results of the Scratch Stars Awards 2023. “It’s great recognition to be featured on the cover,” Olena beams. “I hope that it reminds others to look for open doors along their journey.” Olena sculpted the nails in advance, to be adhered on set on the day of the photo shoot. She enlisted in the help of some close friends to capture the cover shot. “Photo shoots require a lot of planning, so I packed my nail tools in advance to ensure I had everything I needed at the studio,” she shares. Gathering in Berlin at the beginning of the year, Olena remembers a fun day of shooting, taking several hours to perfect the final image, and using the nails as inspiration for the overall look. “We used a 3D pen to create the face piece, and while it was designed for children under 12, it took us some time to understand how to use it effectively,” she laughs.”

The nail style

“The nail industry challenges you to grow in all kinds of ways, but the thing I love most about it is all of the friendships and connections that I’ve been able to make throughout the years.” 20 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Recalling the creation of the star-shaped enhancements, Olena calculated the lengths of each side of the star before folding forms accordingly and applying acrygel. “It was a challenge to create the star shape, while ensuring that each line was sharp and clean. I tried different ways to fulfil my vision, ultimately deciding that the free edge should be sculpted individually first, then integrated into the structure itself, allowing me to achieve very precise angles and lines.” Olena notes that the trial-and-error phase is an essential part of development when trying something new, emphasising that it helps understand the techniques that work, and those that don’t. “If you have a interesting idea and everyone tells you it won’t work, try it first,” she recommends.

COVERSTORY

“It’s great recognition to be featured on the cover and it’s so special to have my developed star shape on it.” Using black to showcase the structure of the design, Olena opted for complementary gold highlights to emphasise the shape of the nails. Other commitments meant that Olena could only work on the nails for a few hours each day, so they took several weeks to complete. “I loved the challenge of creating the structure of the nail shape, and the precision, cleanliness and unique view it required,” she shares. “The shape has a special structure, which requires an understanding of architecture, form application, product control and filing, and I love how this combines with the artistic element of a star.”

www.nailacademy-online.com /olenaoezman.nailacademy & /olena.ozman @nailacademy.online & @olena_oezman @olenaoezman2085

COVER CREDITS Photographer: Lena Gerber @elgervideophoto Make-up artist, hair stylist & model: Veronika Könitzer @kvamakeup

Lena Gerber

Veronika Könitzer

Olena Öezman

Nail stylist: Olena Öezman @olena_oezman

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 21

Hema Free

BUILDER-BEL GEL GET READY TO ROCK THOSE LONG-LASTING NAILS IN STYLE WITH THE HEMA FREE BUILDER-BEL GEL COLLECTION! THIS SASSY RANGE OF 60 STUNNING SHADES IS ALL ABOUT UNLEASHING YOUR INNER DIVA WHILE KEEPING YOUR NAILS ON POINT. SHOW OFF YOUR NATURAL NAILS AND LET THE HEMA FREE BUILDER-BEL GEL COLLECTION FROM GLITTERBELS BE YOUR ULTIMATE GO-TO THIS SUMMER! THIS FRESH AND FABULOUS COLLECTION NOT ONLY SHIELDS YOUR NATURAL NAILS, BUT ALSO DELIVERS AN ENVY-WORTHY, LONG-LASTING SHINE. GET SALON-FRESH NAILS THAT WILL MAKE HEADS TURN AND HEARTS SKIP A BEAT. WITH 60 GORGEOUS SHADES AT YOUR FINGERTIPS, THE BUILDER-BEL GEL RANGE IS A POWERHOUSE OF BEAUTY AND STRENGTH. IT'S TIME TO OWN THE SUMMER, ONE COLORFUL SHADE AT A TIME!

Self-Levelling FORMULA, TO ACHIEVE A FLAWLESS FINISH

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www.glitterbels.com | @glitterbels

NEWPRODUCTS

Gelish Change of Pace Collection £16.95 + VAT each www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk / www.gsgroupuk.com / www.salon-services.com Create on-trend autumn nail looks with the six hues in this Gelish soak-off gel polish collection. Inspired by nature, colours range from neutrals to rich tones, such as khaki crème shade, Lost My Terrain Of Thought, and Sappy But Sweet, a fuchsia berry pearl. Change of Pace is also available in Gelish Dip Express and Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer.

Kirsty Meakin Liquid Chrome Collection £14.99 inc VAT each www.kirstymeakin.com Master magical nail looks with these six colour-shifting liquid chromes from Kirsty Meakin. With a rainbow of high shine hues to excite clients, choose from eye-catching gold, silver, green, pink, orange, blue and purple tones, which can be applied with the brand’s Rubber Dubber Applicator.

List THE HOT

Miss Lucy Let’s Face It Stamping Plate £12 inc VAT www.misslucy.uk Bring a smile to clients’ faces with the nail art designs from this stamping plate from Miss Lucy. Featuring smiley faces in different sizes alongside cherry and flower shapes, the plate aids effortless, on-trend summer art for all nail lengths.

Scratch scours the industry for the latest nail & beauty products to captivate clients & lend a helping hand to your services

Lecenté Country Dreams Glitters £3.99 + VAT each www.lecente.com / www.sweetsquared.com / www.ellisons.co.uk Add eye-catching effects to nails with these five glitters from Lecenté, comprising three sugar shades with a pearlised finish and two iridescent hues. Complementing the brand’s Country Dreams gel polish collection, choose from the likes of violet sugar glitter, Strobe, and pink and blue mix, Dazzle.

24 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Jessica Custom Colour Fruit Infusion Collection £6.50 + VAT/RRP £13 each www.gerrardinternational.com Jump on board the fruity nail trend dominating social media with Jessica’s six-piece summer collection. The mouth-watering crème shades take inspiration from delectable delights and include Watermelon, Papaya Smoothie and Fresh Fig. Each shade is also available in the GELeration gel polish formula for £18.75 + VAT.

NEWPRODUCTS

OPI GelColor Zodiac Collection £19.90 + VAT each www.opiuk.com Boasting a shade for every sign of the zodiac, excite clients with a nail hue designed for them with OPI’s 12-piece Zodiac gel polish collection. Embodying the OPI ethos of using nail colour to unapologetically express yourself, the range of mesmerising shimmer shades is designed to encourage users to be unshakably confident in their identities. Standout colours include Feelin’ Librated, a purple shimmer; The Leonly One, a yellow-gold hue, and I Cancertainly Shine, a holographic silver.

Salon System Just Wax Sensitive Strip Wax Cartridges £13.15 + VAT. Available via wholesalers nationwide. Ideal for the legs, arms, chest and back, the Salon System Just Wax sensitive crème wax is now available in convenient, mess-free cartridges. The no leak formula is less sticky than natural resin waxes for clean, easy release from the skin.

Magpie Beauty Watercolour Paints Palette £25.95 + VAT www.magpiebeauty.co.uk With searches for watercolour nails increasing by 97% this summer, according to Pinterest, get involved with the trend with this 15-piece palette of versatile, highly pigmented hues. Allowing nail artists to create floral, marble and detailed designs with ease, two watercolour brushes are also available to complement the palette.

Artistic Nail Design Art Paints £9.99 + VAT each www.louellabelle.co.uk Take your nail art to the next level with four Artistic Art Paints, available in White Crème, Black Crème, Gold Metallic and Silver Metallic. The LED-curable, no-wipe formula can be used to create defined linework, with no wrinkling, marbling or inhibition layer. Use atop Artistic Colour Gloss Soak-Off Gel Polish, Gel-On Xtensions or Putty PolyGel enhancements to create standout looks.

Nailchemy Siren Gel Polish Collection £12.50 + VAT each www.nailchemy.co.uk Dive into Nailchemy’s range of Siren gel polishes this season and beyond, which take inspiration from water for their vivid colours and enchanting names. Shades range from rich ocean blue, Marina, to Isla, a violet with gold shimmer depicting waves shining in the sun, and bold lime green, Syrena, which translates as ‘mermaid’.

YOSHI Rubber Bases £6.90 inc VAT each www.nailslaundry.co.uk Add strength to the natural nail, while maintaining flexibility, with four glitter Rubber Bases from YOSHI. The versatile formula of Rubber Base can be used as a base for gel polish looks or to build the structure of the natural nail. These four shades offer a subtle, delicate and glittering finish.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 25

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NOWTRENDING

, i H

! e i b r a B Barbiecore is sweeping the globe, thanks to the release of the Warner Bros. Barbie film starring Margot Robbie & Ryan Gosling. Think pink & jump on the trend with Scratch’s roundup of design inspo & product picks for clients

Light Elegance Glitter Gel in Salud! £19 inc VAT www.lightelegance.com

Instagram

.com/mic

helleclas

snails

Tangle Teezer The Ultimate Detangler Mini Totally Pink Barbie™ Brush £10.50 inc VAT www.tangleteezer.com Keep up appearances in the salon and on the move with this mini Barbie themed hairbrush.

28 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Lecenté Glitter in Dazzle £3.99 + VAT www.lecente.com www.sweetsquared.com www.ellisons.co.uk

Salon System Gellux in Sally Sells Seychelles £11.95 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

Zero Gel Polish in Ibiza Nights £11.50 inc VAT www.themanicurecompany.com

Gelish Chrome Stix in Fuchsia Mirror £6.99 + VAT www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk / www.gsgroupuk.com www.salon-services.com INK Acrylink in Jackman £6 inc VAT www.inknails.com

Nail trainer, Lorinc Edina (@lorinc.edina), shares a Barbie-inspired portrait on a feature nail, complemented by shades of pink and eye-catching diamantés.

MARGOT’S MANI

Session nail stylist, Michelle Class, tended to the nails of Barbie actress, Margot Robbie, for the London premiere of the film. She created a versatile, semi-sheer pink manicure using Sally Hansen nail shades.

Primark Barbie Bags (3pk) £12 inc VAT www.primark.com Are you seeking on-trend storage for your core nail shades, brushes and nail art tools? This handy three-piece set is ideal for keeping products clean and organised.

Entity Color Couture Soak Off Gel in I’ll Always Pink You £10.95 + VAT www.beautybossherquarters.co.uk

Glitterbels Builder-Bel Gel in Gossip Gurl £16.99 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

NOWTRENDING OPI Barbie the Movie Collection £6.50 + VAT/RRP £14.90 each www.opiuk.com

OPI has partnered with Warner Bros. and Mattel to launch a limited edition range of Barbie-themed nail lacquers. The nine shades, which include Hi Ken!, a bright yellow crème, and Best Day Ever, a playful pink glitter, are inspired by the positive, fun-loving energy of the Barbie film. The names of the shades were conceptualised with help from the movie’s writer & director, Greta Gerwig. “Barbie represents empowerment and inclusivity, which are core values of OPI,” explains OPI co-founder & brand ambassador, Suzi Weiss-Fischmann. “With a nail colour for every mood and moment, the OPI consumer is poised to do anything. When it comes to using colour for self-expression, there are no limits, just as there are no limits to what the wearer can accomplish.”

FACT FILE

Searches for ‘Barbie nails’ on Pinterest grew by 600% from April to July 2023. US nail pro & celebrity nail stylist, Daisy of @lilflowernails, features iconic Barbie symbols on Aprés Gel-X Tips in Natural Square Medium.

Halo Create Acrylic Powder in Nairobi £3.09 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk s ernail /lilflow m.com

MAD Beauty Clip & Clean Gel Cleanser £2.50 inc VAT www.madbeauty.com Ideal for use between clients, this handy sanitiser has a rose scent and a ‘Pretty in Pink’ theme, perfect for those who love the hue. It features aloe vera to moisturise the hands while cleansing.

Houndstooth nails by Giorgia Cappella, TGB academy training & education manager, using the Doll and Ken gel polish shades.

The GelBottle Inc Duo in Doll & Ken £26 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

ra Instag

Glitterbels ambassador, Emma Laverton, shares how to paint Barbie and Ken on nails using products from the brand. Scan here for a step-by-step

Artistic Nail Design Art Paint in White £9.99 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

Primark Barbie Charger Lead £7 inc VAT www.primark.com Mobile pros – keep your phone charged as you move between appointments with this crystallised, Barbie-themed phone charger lead.

Primark Ken & Barbie mugs (2pk) £9 inc VAT www.primark.com Serve drinks to clients to enjoy during appointments, in their in their choice of Ken or Barbie mug, which look oh-so cute by the nail desk.

Barbie Vinyl Nail Art Stickers £3.25 inc VAT www.smileysglitterstore.co.uk Featuring 38 vinyl stickers per sheet in two design styles and sizes, these handy nail additions are available in Neon Pink (pictured), White, Black, Fuchsia Holographic and Silver Holographic.

YOSHI Gel Polish in Broken Glass £5.95 inc VAT www.nailslaundry.co.uk

MEDIA BARBIE

Finalists in the Scratch Stars Awards Mixed Media Artist of the Year category 2023 were tasked with creating a Barbiecore themed design across three nail tips in one hour, in their race for the title. The challenge took place at The London College of Beauty Therapy on 28 June, with mini masterpieces created by all participants.

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CND Vinylux™ in In Lust £5.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

This design by award-winning nail pro, Scarlett Senter, takes inspiration from Margot Robbie’s character in the live-action Barbie film.

Becca Butterworth

Melanie Lewendon Dominique Sharpe

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 29

p o o c s

SCRATCHSOCIAL

THE SCRATCH

Top (L-R): Helena Biggs, Jess Wilkie Bottom (L-R): Chloe Randall, Rebecca Hitchon, Callie Iley

The Scratch team offers an insight into its antics & unveils events & products from the nail & beauty realms

In the

office... Team Scratch packed 350 goody bags for attendees of the Scratch Stars Awards 2023. Products included Halo Create glitter, Protein Formula For Nails treatments, a Lyco’Pedi mask or scrub, an imix, OPI duo and so much more.

Out and ab

to cca, headed es writer, Rebe rd in da an St e News & featur Th able location, m am ch. gr un sta Br In r oh-soe MaiLi Powe London, for th , ss er ro fill C id ’s ac ng Ki uronic orted the hyal ages The event supp which encour n, ig pa m ca r we Po were y s M ee s brand’ ent. Attend yNoToJudgem Sa aits, # rtr to po e en ur m at wo icures’, caric an m er ow ’s ‘p en treated to sion on wom and a discus ch un br ka p bi to Sa of a ro cluded Dr t. Panellists in ira Khan, empowermen etic doctor; Sa sth ae g in nn wi don, ar rn Karim, aw lity; Polly Ve & TV persona an m well, TV wo sPo y es nn busin author; Je g journalist & idence nf co dy bo award-winnin , d Alex Light an r, te en LDN. es ht pr & radio hing brand, Lig under of clot fo & r ce en influ

d to r, Helena, jette Managing edito er, ish bl Scratch’s pu Las Vegas with rof op sm Co e e, for th Scott Derbyshir il Na t. en ev de tra North America ht g included Lig brands exhibitin Nails, e gu Vo at, En Elegance, Le Ch lena He s. el rb itte Gl d Gelish, Orly an d an ns innovatio noted upcoming d an or ct se e nail products for th famous industry th wi up ht ug ca and Orly’s Jeff Pink ing faces, includ ll. ne on cC M s Jim Light Elegance’

What we’re wearing... At the MaiLi Power Brunch, Rebecca received a ‘power manicure’ courtesy of Ruuby nail tech, Becky. She chose the empowering Abu Dhabi Nights hue from The GelBottle Inc, which features holographic lilac glitter.

Copywriter, Callie, opted for a bold red mani with starry feature nails, courtesy of Kirstie Parker (@top.coat_nails) using HD Pro Nails products. 30 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

out

STAR QUALITY

Finalists in eight of the 18 Scratch Stars Awards 2023 categories travelled to the London College of Beauty Therapy (LCBT) to showcase their nail knowledge and handiwork in front of 20 judges on Wednesday 28 June. Their performance determined the winner of each category, revealed on page 42.

INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

MEET MEET THE THE TOP TOP 55 Check Checkout outthe thebizarre bizarre& &beautiful beautifulnails nailssculpted sculptedby byfinalists finalistsin intheir theirbid bidto tobe be crowned crownedthe thefirst firstWorld's World'sStar StarNail NailArtist Artist

he hefirst firstWorld's World'sStar StarNail NailArtist Artistcompetition competition has hascome cometo toaaclose close- -and andwhat whataawild wildride ride it's it'sbeen! been!We've We'veseen seennail nailproducts productsused usedin in astounding astoundingways waysto tocreate createartistry artistrythat thathas has kept keptthe thejudges judgeswowed, wowed,inspired inspiredand and entertained entertainedall allseason. season.

The Thecompetition competitionkicked kickedoff offininApril Aprilwith withaa21-strong 21-strong shortlist shortlistof ofinternational internationalnail nailpros, pros,who whowere werewhittled whittled down downto toaatop top12 12following followingaapreliminary preliminarychallenge. challenge. These Thesecontenders contenderswere werethen thentasked taskedwith withaaseries seriesof of challenges, challenges,which whichsaw sawsome somefall fallinto intothe theWild WildCard Card deck, deck,clawing clawingfor foran anall-important all-importantplace placeininthe thefinal final via viaaaseries seriesof ofsmaller smallertasks. tasks. The Theresults resultsof offour fourcore corechallenges challengessaw sawthe theUK's UK'sKaty Katy Pottle Pottleand andMonika MonikaKupień Kupieńshoot shootinto intothe thefinal. final.With With such suchvaried variedtalent talentshown shownacross acrossthe theWild WildCard Carddeck, deck, and andevery everyparticipant participantdemonstrating demonstratingthe theskill, skill,passion passion and andprogression progressionrequired requiredof ofaawinner, winner,the thejudges judges couldn't couldn'tjust justchoose chooseone onename nameto tojoin jointhe theduo. duo.The The UK's UK'sGemma GemmaDawson Dawsonand andKamila KamilaBorowiec Borowiecand and China's China'sLaiying LaiyingLiu Liusaw sawtheir theirgameplay gameplayextended, extended,and and the thefinal finalchallenge challengewas wasset. set. Our Ourtop topfive's five'sfinal finalmission missionwas wasto tocreate createnail nailart artthat that celebrated celebratedall allthings thingsbizarre bizarreand andsurreal surrealacross across10 10nail nail tips, tips,inspired inspiredby byCND's CND'sBizarre BizarreBeauty Beautycollection. collection.Each Each design designhad hadto tofeature feature3D 3Delements, elements,at atleast leastone onenonnonnail nailart artmaterial, material,and andno noconventional conventionalnail nailshapes. shapes. Take Takeaalook lookat atthe theresulting resultingcreations, creations,which whichwere were reviewed reviewedbefore beforethe thewinner's winner'sannouncement announcementon on23 23July. July. 32 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

GGEEM MM MAA DDAAW WSSOONN UUKK

Gemma GemmaDawson's Dawson'sWSNA WSNA journey journeyhas hasseen seenher hertake take risks risksand andindulge indulgeinin exciting excitingnew newtechniques. techniques. The TheEssex-based Essex-basedpro prohas has kept keptthe thejudges judgesengaged engaged with withher herwitty wittyvideos, videos, colourful colourfulartistry artistryand and innovative innovativeuse useof ofnail nail products. products.

Her Herfinal finaldesign designcentred centredaround around'acid 'acidtrip tripbeauty', beauty',with with aavibrant vibrantclash clashof ofwarm warmtones tonesand androlling rollingmovements. movements. Lava Lavalamp-style lamp-stylecapsules capsuleswere werecreated, created,and andaadistorted distorted reality realityidea ideasaw sawGemma Gemmainclude includemirrors mirrorswithin withinher hernail nail styles. styles.She Shedescribed describedthe themirrors mirrorsas as'portals 'portalsto toother other realms', realms',reflecting reflectingthe thedepth depthof ofaaperson's person'ssoul souland and mind. mind.She Sheused usedthe theCND CNDBizarre BizarreBeauty Beautyshades, shades,blowing blowing them themwith withaastraw strawfor foraafun funeffect. effect.

INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

KATY POTTLE UK

A first time competitor, Katy's progression throughout this contest has been astounding, and she soared to the top of the leaderboard in two of the four core challenges.

Working from her home in Spain, Katy crafted each nail to represent a different stage of her competition journey. She put a bizarre twist on some of her former challenge creations, and experimented with new structures and eye-catching elements across 10 nails.

KAMILA BOROWIEC

Embodying herself as a warrior via a sculpted figurine in challenge four, Kamila pushed artistic boundaries this season and her efforts and craftmanship stunned the judges each week.

Her Mondrian-inspired final creation focused on bold, impactful hues. The goal was to create 'dimensional' nails, with an abstract and bizarre feel, and Kamila achieved this with block painting, sharp sculpts and the use of items such as curtain robes, sticky eyes and children's party pieces. Hungry for the win, Kamila arranged a professional photo shoot of her nails within the 10-day submission timeframe.

LAIYING LIU CHINA

Laiying has demonstrated professionalism throughout every stage of the competition, with well shot videos, clear advice and descriptions. She has fascinated the judges by creating incredibly detailed creations in a short time.

Laiying's final nail submission is inspired by the murals featured on the Mogao Caves on China's Silk Route. It depicts the mystical beauty of the East, and she used a variety of tools, product and complex techniques to complete the design.

MONIKA KUPIEŃ UK

Monika has taken the judges on an exciting visual journey via her video diaries, travelling abroad to seek inspiration for her designs. Her final challenge saw her fly to her home town of Gdansk, Poland, where she sourced colour and design ideas.

Monika used thread and shells atop sharp, clean nail shapes and complemented these with meticulous hand-painted details, inspired by CND's Bizarre Beauty shades. She showed the breadth of her skills in this vital challenge by using numerous nail systems to achieve striking results.

scratchmagazine.co.uk/wsna POWERED BY:

#WorldsStarNailArtist PLATINUM SPONSOR: SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 33

FASHION WEEK CAREERMOVES

Are you ready to take your work to the runway? Learn how to boss backstage at Fashion Week, as REBECCA HITCHON gathers top tips from session nail pros Get your spring/summer 2024 mindset ready, as next month marks the return of Fashion Weeks across the globe. If you’re striving to get involved in the session nail sphere, highly regarded regulars at Fashion Week share everything you need to know…

How to get hired At Fashion Week, you’re not likely to be using gel polish directly on the nails of models, so make sure your other nail skills are up to scratch. “Contact manicurists you would like to work with and send them pictures of your nail polish designs,” says Marie-Louise Coster, who has Marie-Louise Coster keyed runway shows in London, Paris and Milan. “Gel polish is far more forgiving than nail polish because it will self-level, therefore I recommend perfecting your standard manicuring skills.”

Sabrina Gayle

Your press-on nail application skills should also be strong, adds renowned London-based session manicurist, Sabrina Gayle. “Being able to swiftly and flawlessly apply press-ons will make you a great Fashion Week assistant, so practice if you struggle with that.” It’s not just nail skills that you need to be able to prove, comments Liia Zotova, a session stylist popularly known as @the.fingersofgod. “In order to be invited to work at Fashion Week, you need to have a creative approach, which can be showcased in shoots and editorial work you have participated in.”

Sabrina Gayle notes the importance of throwing yourself in the deep end to learn the ins and outs of Fashion Week. “As a nail bar manager at the time, grabbing an opportunity to assist at London Fashion Week was the best way for me to learn fast and adapt – and from there, other work quickly presented itself.” Liia Zotova

The qualities you need “Stamina is vital, as a session stylist may have to work hard for many hours – even on occasion, 24 hours,” says Marian Newman BEM, highly regarded and experienced Fashion Week nail artist. She adds that being star-struck is an unprofessional quality that must be avoided. Marian Newman BEM

Cherrie Snow

Sylvie Macmillian

“Being a team player is key,” states Sabrina Gayle. “If an assistant has run out of or forgotten a product or needs help, don’t hesitate to support. We are a team unit backstage, and adaptability is crucial.” Respected London Fashion Week manicurist, Cherrie Snow, agrees, commenting: “A nail pro who’s not afraid to get stuck in amongst the chaos to get the job done, while respecting other creatives, is a huge tick for me. They should work fast under pressure, while maintaining a calm demeanour.” Nail artist, Sylvie Macmillan, who is known for eye-catching session nail looks, stresses the importance of understanding fashion references to work at Fashion Week. “You’re there to add to the character that the fashion brand is trying to convey, so your work is about the brand’s identity – not yours,” she says. “I advise reading books about the history of fashion, researching work by major photographers, studying different subcultures and generally having an interest in society.”

34 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

What to expect “Nail work at a fashion show is unlike day-to-day salon work,” reveals Liia Zotova. “At Fashion Week, you don’t have a table or lamp and in a short time, you must tend to the nails of a large number of people, working alongside hairstylists and make-up artists.” Sylvie Macmillan describes beauty teams as needing to work like a ‘shoal of fish’ around one another. “It’s about being respectful and aware of what’s happening; you don’t want models to feel like rag dolls with beauticians fighting over their bodies. We should be putting them at ease,” she comments. “Expect the unexpected – be prepared to work in tight spots or under tables, share a model with multiple artists and potentially remove a press-on nail or gel enhancement,” adds Sabrina Gayle. Marian Newman BEM advises having a central area where the nail team can store their belongings and regroup when needed. “It is here where the team will be shown what is required for the show,” she shares. “Products can be laid out, as when media photographers arrive, they often like to take pictures of these.”

Across the globe “Every Fashion Week is different, but Milan and Paris are the most similar, as they have huge brands Chiara Ballisai with big shows and call times, so you have more time to work,” shares Chiara Ballisai, who has keyed shows in London and Milan. “Each city has its own energy, for example London and New York can be quite organised, whereas Milan and Paris are a bit more chaotic,” adds Marian Newman BEM.

WISDOM

CAREERMOVES

Photo pointers

“My first priority is to finish all of the nail looks required, and then I can find a suitable moment to gather content discreetly,” says Cherrie Snow. “l never post anything from a show on social media until after it has finished, and I think it’s polite to wait until after the designer has posted, too.” Sylvie Macmillan agrees, adding: “While it’s nice to document the nails, focusing on what you’ve been hired to do and not bugging models is how you get a return booking. The best opportunity to get content is when models are lined up prior to the show, as the styling, hair and make-up is done and you won’t capture anything that other artists aren’t happy with.” To quickly obtain imagery, Chiara Ballisai advises taking videos then screenshotting the nail moments you like best.

A nail photo by Cherrie Snow from the Emilia Wickstead AW23 London Fashion Week show.

A backstage photo by Chiara Ballisai at the Helen Anthony AW23 London Fashion Week show.

Credit considerations Birmingham-based tech & session pro, Anthony Lloyd, explains the issue of nail stylists’ work not being recognised on the runway... “There are many popular social media accounts of hair and make-up stylists who work with fashion models. Most of these clients have their nails done – Anthony Lloyd some designed with a work of art, yet the techs aren’t often credited in posts. Nail professionals can be under-appreciated compared to other creatives in the fashion industry, but the nail sector is a key part of the economy of the runway. I know of a nail pro who was the only stylist not given food vouchers during a job. We are the underdogs of the industry and it’s time we speak up to make ourselves known. Brands and models also need to get on board and promote our work to uplift all creatives.”

MARIE-LOUISE COSTER’S ETIQUETTE ADVICE • Commit to the job and turn up. • If you have agreed to a job and get offered another, don’t decline the first one. • Behave professionally, courteously and ensure you are dressed appropriately. • Listen to the lead nail stylist. • Always ask about anything that you don’t know the answer to; don’t guess. • Focus on your work, precisely and at speed. • Ensure models are happy and comfortable. • Complete all the models’ nails before pampering any guests or backstage VIPs. • Do not approach the designer to suggest yourself as the lead stylist for future events. • On social media posts, make it clear who you assisted.

“Being a team player is key. If an assistant has run out of or forgotten a product or needs help, don’t hesitate to support. We are a team unit backstage, and adaptability is crucial.”

SABRINA GAYLE’S KITBAG ESSENTIALS ü Antibacterial spray and disposable gloves to change after tending to each model.

ü 180, 100 and 80-grit files, alongside a buffer, cuticle pusher and nipper.

ü Nail polish remover, preferably acetone for a quick removal and to tackle unexpected gel polish or press-on nails from a previous show. It is a good idea to pack nail foils with pre-attached lintfree cotton pads, for speedy and easy removals where needed.

ü A clean up brush. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 35

EXPERTADVICE

BEST FOOT Enhance your pedicure confidence & elevate your promotion of the service with top tips from footcare specialist, DENISE SPRAGG ABOUT DENISE

Denise Spragg owns The Sangha House, a health and wellbeing centre in Taunton, Somerset, which she runs alongside her husband, Andy. She is skilled in reflexology, facials, massage and manicure, and specialises in footcare services. Denise has been performing pedicures for 11 years, and combines cosmetic pedicures with podiatry. She won the SOS Beauty Awards accolade for UK Foot Practitioner of the Year in June 2023, and is the legal & financial director of the Federation of Nail Professionals.

BEFORE

AFTER

www.thesanghahouse.co.uk /sanghahouse @denisespragg & @thesanghahouse 36 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

forward

eet, right? “Ugh, I hate my feet, and I couldn’t bear anyone touching them,” is something I hear so often as a pedicurist. In this article, I want to explain the benefits of being able to give a high quality pedicure, how to market this to a wide range of clients (including men), and how to approach the service with confidence. I feel that the word ‘pedicure’ has been misrepresented in the last few years, implying a pampering service or something very feminine. There is nothing wrong with that, of course, but I have found that simply changing the name to ‘footcare treatment’ makes it more attractive to male clients. If you have positioned yourself as the footcare expert in your town and feel confident in your treatments, you will be the first name that comes to mind if someone wants to treat their feet after years of running, playing football or wearing work boots. Some clients may treat a pedicure as a project, rather than an occasional pampering treat – and that’s fine, as long as they are booking the service. In addition, if you stock a quality footcare range, there is great potential for solving your clients’ pain points and benefitting from retail income. So, how do we, as nail techs, learn how to take care of feet? Great training, continued learning and practice are all key. Initially, I recommend looking at the National Occupational Standards for pedicure and figuring out what you can and cannot do. An existing qualification, either level 2 or 3, lays the groundwork, and seeking out good educators to teach you more advanced skills and techniques will improve your confidence. This will enable you to help more clients and keep your insurer happy, too. Much of what we learn during ‘pedicure week’ at college, especially

cuticle work and cleaning around the proximal nail fold, can be greatly improved with a few tweaks. Also, don’t forget to enlist help from your family and friends. If you know a ticklish person, try practicing on them, increasing the pressure with which you hold their feet until they feel comfortable.

The most important consideration with footcare is hygiene, and it’s crucial that your hygiene protocols are on point. The days of simply dunking your tools in a jar of Barbicide without wiping them first, and allowing everything to sit in toenail soup are, mercifully, long gone! Make sure you have enough sets of tools and bowls, so that you can disinfect and sanitise them properly while you work on your next client. You are the expert, so don’t be tempted to overtreat, just to get a perfect finish on a complex client. Explain to them that, while it might be tempting to file away at their calluses until there’s nothing left, it will hurt and possibly damage them. I set each client’s expectations at the start of their first service and tell them clearly how many treatments they will need with me, the timescales and products they will require, and encourage them to book a treatment course. If necessary, say something like: “I want to see you again in four weeks’ time.” From a business perspective, I believe there is a huge gap in the market at the moment. There is cosmetic pedicure and then there is podiatry, and it seems to me that as an industry, we are failing a lot of people who don’t have beautiful feet, but who are not in need of podiatry, which is a medical service. It is a wonderfully underrated thing to have a client coming in with painful feet and leaving feeling comfortable, healthy and listened to.

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PRODUCTSPOTLIGHT

ZERO: The Hero Are you keen to update your gel polish offering? Consider Zero from The Manicure Company, a range formulated with allergy avoidance in mind & designed to last for over 14 days

ounded in Waterford, Ireland in 2016, The Manicure Company (TMC) prides itself on providing nail pros with reliable, innovative products and exceptional customer support. The latest addition to its portfolio, the Zero Gel Polish range, is an extension of these goals, offering a longwearing nail finish fitting to the conscious needs of its customer base.

“In early 2019, after consulting with our customers, educators and brand ambassadors, we decided to create a hypoallergenic gel polish formula,” explains Eoin Cotter, co-founder of The Manicure Company. “We didn’t want to just create a Hema-free formula, and could have easily Eoin Cotter replaced Hema with Di-Hema or HPMA, but it was important to us to go beyond this.” The team sought to push formulation boundaries to create a ‘Zero’ allergens ingredient list, to meet the needs of both its customer base and the industry, while maintaining TMC’s vegan and cruelty-free ethos. The journey from concept to creation was no small feat, with the process spanning three and a half years. Numerous formula iterations were tested, before The Manicure Company’s unwavering dedication to its Zero vision saw the formula perfected in 2022; free from Hema, Di-Hema, HPMA, TPO and IBOA and promising over 14 days’ wear. The next step was the bottle design process.

Ode to the aesthetic Carefully constructed to provide both a sleek appearance and functional appeal, a pop of colour has been added to the silver bottle design, allowing techs to select shades with ease. The handle and brush have also been well considered, with a short handle and wide, round brush to complement the product’s consistency and allow for precise application. Zero Gel Polish has launched with 40 shades, spanning a rainbow of textures and hues. The range also includes a Primer, Base and Top Coat, with each 10ml bottle yielding approximately 20 to 25 treatments. Designed to work with its existing Dual Pro UV/LED lamp, The Manicure Company promises no additional equipment costs for existing customers. “The Zero Gel Polish formula has been meticulously crafted in the USA with performance and safety in mind,” Eoin continues. “We had a vision – and we’re really proud to have brought it to fruition.”

38 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

TECH TALK

“I was involved in testing the pre-production formulas and love the consistency and highly pigmented formula of Zero Gel Polish,” shares TMC brand ambassador, Freya Murphy. “The rounded brush head makes application easy, and the removal process is straightforward. All my clients have achieved normal wear time without issue.” Freya’s favourite shade from the range is the bold, electric blue hue, Azure, due to its versatility for each season.

PRODUCTSPOTLIGHT

“The team sought to push formulation boundaries to create a ‘Zero’ allergens ingredient list, to meet the needs of both its customer base and the industry, while maintaining TMC’s vegan and cruelty-free ethos.”

APPLICATION

Step 1 Prep the nails for gel polish application and lightly buff with the TMC Foam File. Cleanse the nail with a lint-free pad and TMC Pro Prep & Wipe Solution. Step 2 Apply Zero Gel Polish Primer, followed by a thin coat of Zero Gel Polish Base Coat, capping the free edge. Cure for 60 seconds in The Manicure Company’s Dual Pro UV/LED lamp. Step 3 Apply a thin coat of the chosen Zero Gel Polish Colour Coat to each nail, capping the free edge. Cure for 60 seconds, repeating if further coverage is required.

TECH TALK

“I love the creamy coverage that Zero Gel Polish offers, as it coats the natural nail with ease,” reveals TMC head educator, Kelly Marie Daly. “The shades have such a vibrancy to them, and removal involves a quick buff and a soak for eight to 10 minutes. The formula simply bubbles and flakes away from the nail.” Kelly’s favourite Zero shade is Heiress, a metallic bronze that she loves to use to add a glamorous twist to French tips.

Step 4 Apply Zero Gel Polish Top Coat and cure for 60 seconds. Remove the inhibition layer with Pro Prep & Wipe Solution on a lint-free pad. Step 5 Finish the treatment with TMC’s Bio Cuticle Oil, massaging into the cuticle and surrounding skin.

REMOVAL

Step 1 Using TMC’s E-File Pro 2.0 or a hand file with 150-grit or above, remove the top coat layer and file the free edge. Step 2 Wrap the nails in TMC’s Removal Wraps soaked in Gel Off Solution for 10 minutes. Step 3 Remove the wraps one at a time and use a cuticle pusher or orange-wood stick to push off the flaked formula. Step 4 Begin nail prep for re-application or buff the nails with a Finishing File. Apply Bio Cuticle Oil to finish.

Zero Gel Polish Primer is £9.50 inc VAT, and the Base Coat, Gel Polish shades and Top Coat are £11.50 inc VAT each. Available via www.themanicurecompany.com and associated stockists. /themanicurecompany

@the_manicure_company

@themanicurecompany

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 39

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INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

2023

THE ONLY AWARDS FOR THE UK&I NAIL INDUSTRY

WINNERS ANNOUNCED! The results are in for the 11th Scratch Stars Awards, which recognise nail pros, educators & businesses shining bright in the UK&I nail sector

HELENA BIGGS REPORTS In 2012, the Scratch team had a vision. Beyond serving up content to inspire and inform nail pros, it wanted to reward them, and so the Scratch Stars Awards was born. For 11 years, the awards has been recognising excellence helping techs and businesses to achieve greater success.

Finalists are selected not just for their exceptional nail skills, but because they are business-savvy, industry aware and dedicated to both client care and the growth of the nail sector. It was in February that this year's awards journey began, with 18 categories open to entry. Eligible nail pros, educaators and businesses across the UK&I were invited to enter, with an initial judging round leading to the announcement of five finalists in each category. A second and final judging process amassed the scores that determined the winners. Technicians in eight categories attended a practical test and interview in London, salons and mobile nailists received a mystery visit, and the remainder of the finalists were required to submit further information, such as a video, evidence of skills and testimonials.

42 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

I truly admire the commitment of our finalists to the awards experience, recognising it as a platform to elevate their profile. There were 90 finalists this year, and while there can only be 18 winners, I want to applaud every single person that has put forward their self or business in the bid for a Scratch Star. It's a tough nail battle - but a learning curve, too, as these awards allow entrants to reflect on their progress over the last 12 months and note areas for development, as well as successes to be celebrated. As our industry responds to new trends and techniques, the awards categories have changed, with some retiring and others added over the years - such as the Nail Business Mentor Award, which was introduced for 2023. But some things have never wavered: the passion of UK&I pros and the desire for Scratch to unite the industry and recognise those that shine. These awards would not be possible without our judges and sponsors, who dedicate time and money to support this event and, in doing so, support the growth of our industry. Many attended The Scratch Stars Party on Sunday 23 July, at which our winners were announced. Let's take a look at the Scratch Stars Awards champions 2023...

INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

L&P TECH OF THE YEAR sponsored by Glitterbels

MINO VO London

GEL TECH OF THE YEAR sponsored by Bio Sculpture Gel & Evo

CATRIONA LEITH Cambridgeshire

NATURAL NAIL SPECIALIST OF THE YEAR sponsored by The Nail Lab UK

LUCY PRICE West Yorkshire

POLISH & PAINT ARTIST OF THE YEAR sponsored by BrillBird UK

KAMILA BOROWIEC Worcestershire >> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 43

INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

MIXED MEDIA ARTIST OF THE YEAR sponsored by Kirsty Meakin

MELANIE LEWENDON Derbyshire

ONE STROKE ARTIST OF THE YEAR sponsored by HD Professional Nail Systems

CATRIONA LEITH Cambridgeshire

GEL POLISH STYLIST OF THE YEAR sponsored by Salon System Gellux

JIAK HING Greater Manchester

NAIL STYLIST OF THE YEAR sponsored by OPI

ALICE NALI London 44 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

MOBILE MOBILE NAILIST NAILIST OF OF THE THE YEAR YEAR sponsored sponsored by by SOS SOS Beauty Beauty

CLARE CLARE WOODCOCK WOODCOCK Surrey Surrey

EDUCATOR EDUCATOR OF OF THE THE YEAR YEAR sponsored sponsored by by Sweet Sweet Squared Squared

VICTORIA VICTORIA TRAFFORD TRAFFORD West West Yorkshire Yorkshire

SOCIAL SOCIAL MEDIA MEDIA STAR STAR OF OF THE THE YEAR YEAR sponsored sponsored by by Halo Halo EasiBuild EasiBuild

KIRSTY KIRSTY MEAKIN MEAKIN Staffordshire Staffordshire

NAIL NAIL TEAM TEAM OF OF THE THE YEAR YEAR sponsored sponsored by by Sweet Sweet Squared Squared

OPI OPI EDUCATION EDUCATION TEAM TEAM Nationwide Nationwide SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 45

INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

HOME NAIL SALON OF THE YEAR sponsored by Nails Laundry

THE NAIL SHED Greater Manchester

NAIL & BEAUTY SALON OF THE YEAR sponsored by Gelish

BEAUTY AT THE GATE Lincolnshire

NAIL SALON OF THE YEAR sponsored by The GelBottle Inc

TOWNHOUSE KNIGHTSBRIDGE London

THE NAIL BUSINESS MENTOR AWARD sponsored by LCBT

JOANNA TOMPKINS Surrey 46 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

THE THE SHOOTING SHOOTING STAR STAR AWARD AWARD presented presented by by Scratch Scratch magazine magazine

MINO MINO VO VO London London

SERVICES SERVICES TO TO THE THE NAIL NAIL INDUSTRY INDUSTRY presented presented by by Scratch Scratch magazine magazine

SAMUEL SAMUEL & & SAMANTHA SAMANTHA SWEET SWEET Thanks Thanks to to the the judges judges of of the the Scratch Scratch Stars Stars Awards Awards 2023: 2023: Liza Liza Smith, Smith, Debbie Debbie Willis, Willis, Kirsty Kirsty Meakin, Meakin, Belinda Belinda Price, Price, Katie Katie Clark, Clark, Stella Stella Cox, Cox, Julie-Anne Julie-Anne Larivière, Larivière, Tina Tina Bell, Bell, Jenni Jenni Draper, Draper, Anna Anna Lee, Lee, Paulina Paulina Zdrada, Zdrada, Kym Kym Moody, Moody, Denise Denise Wright, Wright, Jennie Jennie Nippard, Nippard, Neringa Neringa Alsauskiene, Alsauskiene, Rebecca Rebecca Isaac, Isaac, Andreea Andreea Simona Simona Ignat, Ignat, Roxanne Roxanne Campbell, Campbell, Viv Viv Carrick, Carrick, O'Sullivan, Richard Richard Helena Helena Marimon, Marimon, Marian Marian Newman Newman BEM, BEM, Amanda Amanda Hawtree-Taft, Hawtree-Taft, Jacqui Jacqui O'Sullivan, Lambert, Lambert, Alex Alex Fox, Fox, Millie Millie Kendall Kendall OBE, OBE, Lesley Lesley Blair Blair MBE, MBE, Hazel Hazel Dixon, Dixon, Sue Sue Davies, Davies, Jacqueline Jacqueline Kennedy, Kennedy, Sean Sean O'Sullivan, O'Sullivan, Charisse Charisse Kenion, Kenion, Elise Elise Scholes-Pilkington, Scholes-Pilkington, Leah Leah Durrant, Durrant, Faye Faye Finaro, Finaro, Nergish Nergish Wadia-Austin, Wadia-Austin, Ian Ian Archbold, Archbold, Katie Katie Godfrey, Godfrey, Leighton Leighton Denny Denny MBE, MBE, Nina Nina Taylor, Taylor, Marie Marie Yexley, Yexley, Alicia Alicia Humphreys, Humphreys, Valerie Valerie Delforge, Delforge, Lucy Lucy Radbourne, Radbourne, Ryan Ryan Power, Power, Metta Metta Francis. Francis.

Inside Inside next next issue... issue... We We reveal reveal photos photos from from The The Scratch Scratch Stars Stars Party, Party, held held in in London London on on 23 23 July! July!

www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/scratchstars The The Scratch Scratch Stars Stars Awards Awards sponsors sponsors 2023: 2023:

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 47

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INDUSTRYEVENT

Builder-Bel

BONANZA Join Scratch’s CHLOE RANDALL as she heads to the Glitterbels’ Builder-Bel launch party in Manchester

n influx of nail professionals headed to the Mercure Manchester Piccadilly Hotel on Sunday 25 June to be among the first to purchase the Glitterbels Hemafree Builder-bel Gel shades, while celebrating the product launch in a spectacular fashion.

Scratch’s Chloe with Annabel Maginnis, owner of Glitterbels.

There are shades to suit every skin tone in the 60-strong range, and the products are formulated to protect and add strength to natural nails. This party was the opportunity for pros to swatch them ahead of time and get their hands on the new hues.

“It was great to see that so many months of hard work had paid off, and it was Upon arriving at the event, guests witnessed six-foot gel polish bottle cut-outs, a stunning pink even better to see skills. The competitions were run by Marian balloon arch, candyfloss and popcorn machines and the iconic Glitterbels unicorn, Dave. Newman BEM, Nailympia Competitions the smiles on director, Alex Fox and Glitterbels deputy head everyone’s The day was split into two five-hour sessions, of educaton & Scratch Stars Educator of the Year attended by excited nail pros who queued around the 20/21, Jennie Nippard. faces.” Charli Jepson

room to see the shades and make a purchase, while others took a seat at the Glitterbels cinema to watch a movie showcasing all 60 hues, with popcorn in hand.

Ebony Shepherd

“The Glitterbels team worked for months to create the perfect party, complete with a large, spinning unicorn, a Builder-bel Gel movie with popcorn and treats to eat while watching,” comments Ebony Shepherd, social media manager at Glitterbels. “There were so many gorgeous photo opportunities because we know that if it’s not on Instagram, it didn’t happen!” Nail pros also had the chance to enter the first Glitterbels Nail Boss awards, a competition featuring various categories to allow pros to showcase their

50 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Marian Newman BEM

Marian also took to the stage during the party to give a speech to the nail pros about Hema, alongside Glitterbels head of education, Charli Jepson, who explained to pros at the beginning of each session what would be happening at the event. Techs could scan a QR code to be taken to a map of the party and a schedule for the event. Team members from ABT Insurance were also in attendance, promoting special offers and answering questions about insurance. “It was a very early start for most of the Glitterbels team, and some arrived at the venue the day before to help prepare it for the event,” adds Ebony. “Excitement and some nerves hung in the air as so many hours of work had gone into planning the event. Everyone wanted it to be a success.”

INDUSTRYEVENT

Annabel Maginnis

After speaking to founder, Annabel Maginnis, she explained how the day also started early for her, as she started getting her glam on at around 6am. Her hair and make-up looks were created by Meg and Lily Gray from Lady Gray Salon.

The hard work of the team and the early alarm clearly paid off as the venue looked magical. Lit with grand chandeliers and decorated with flowers and pink accessories, the venue also featured pink seats, where pros could watch the product being demonstrated on the big screen. A custom-made, heart-shaped desk created by partner company, Bespoke Salon Furniture, featured in the centre of the room to allow for product swatching.

“Lit with grand chandeliers and decorated with flowers and pink accessories, the venue also featured pink seats, where pros could watch the product being demonstrated on the big screen.”

Founder of the Azaylia Foundation and best-selling author, Safiyya Vorjajee, opted for the shade My Pearl for her nail look, applied by ambassador, Jess Swinburn.

A platform stage also saw Annabel and Glitterbels ambassadors create beautiful Annabel used Builder-bel Gel nail looks for celebrity guests shade, Crème Cup, on Chloe Patton, from MTV’s Teen Mom. during both sessions, including MTV Teen Mom’s Chloe Patton, Lateysha Grace from MTV’s The Valley, Chloe Ferry and Sophie Kasaei from Geordie Shore, and Safiyya Vorajee, founder of the Azalylia Foundation.

“The day was a huge success. The entire Glitterbels team had a fabulous time and a lovely day meeting all our wonderful customers,” concludes Ebony. “It was great to see that so many months of hard work had paid off, and it was even better to see the smiles on everyone’s faces. We want to take this time to say a huge thank you to everyone that came to the event and those who supported us online.” www.glitterbels.com /GlitterbelsbyAnnabel

@glitterbels SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 51

SALONSPOTLIGHTS

Through the

Keyhole

Take a peek inside salon setups across the UK as Scratch unlocks each door…

Nails By Kerry

Location: Dublin, Ireland

Kerry Delaney’s love for nails began at the age of five, when she added nail products to her Christmas list. At nine years old, she celebrated her birthday with a nail painting party, and attained her first nail qualification as soon as she finished school. She works from a home salon space in Dublin, sitting atop a customised throne to perform nail treatments, including Glitterbels L&P and builder gel enhancements with hand-painted nail art. The salon colour scheme centres around gold and pink, and Kerry and her dad designed and painted the space together in a project of passion. “We had so much fun, transforming it into my ideal salon,” Kerry reveals. “My dad was a small business owner, and appreciated my desire to have my own premises. He helped me pursue my dream career of nail tekking in any way he could. He could always tell I had a passion for nails. “Unfortunately, my dad only got to see me live my dream in my salon for a year, as he sadly and unexpectedly passed away in May 2021. The space now holds an extra special place in my heart, as my dad will always be part of the NBK brand. I love coming to work in the salon; it has become my happy place. “My colour scheme makes my brand identity memorable and distinctive,” Kerry shares. “The salon and my car are both pink, as it’s a hue I’ve been drawn to since I was a young girl, plus it makes a statement.” @nails.by.kerry

Do you want to be featured on this page? Scan here to submit your salon or setup

@nails.by.kerry

Nail Licious By Stacey Location: Worksop, Nottinghamshire

Stacey Brown opened the doors to Nail Licious By Stacey in February 2022, after transforming her garden shed into a salon space. She had taken her first steps in nail training during lockdown, and practiced her skills at her living room table. She offered treatments to family and friends while she established her business, before moving into the private setup. “Initially, I only converted half of the shed, which was big enough for my nail table,” Stacey reveals. “However, as I qualified in more beauty treatments, I utilised more space.” The passionate pro is a fan of the colour pink, and has used this as her core shade within the setup. “Owning a garden salon means I can create a homely feel away from my house, with a sweet but professional vibe. My favourite area of the salon is the eye-catching flower wall,” she continues. Stacey offers gel and builder gel enhancements alongside classic manicures and nail art – from minimal to detailed designs. “Creating magic on 10 tiny canvases and being able to make clients feel good about themselves is the best part of the role,” she shares. 52 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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g n i h s i Fin

touches

Time is ticking to snap your winning shot & enter Scratch’s annual photographic competition. CHLOE RANDALL shares points to note before clicking submit

: S E S O L C ENTRY 3 2 0 2 t s u g u 31 A T @ 5pm BS

The entry deadline is nearing for The Great Scratch Shoot Out competition 2023, which encourages you to try your hand at photographic nail work. If you’ve ever had an idea for a striking, cover-worthy image, now’s your chance to snap a shot and see if you can win a prize. The contest involves co-ordinating and executing your own photo shoot and potentially teaming up with fellow creatives, such as a photographer, model, hair stylist and make-up artist. In addition, you may choose to use a post-production process to refine your images and perfect your entry.

A 10-STEP GUIDE TO CREATING A GREAT SCRATCH SHOOT OUT ENTRY 1. Choose your concept Unleash your creativity and showcase your originality, style and imagination with your concept. From a simple idea to an elaborate theme, think about what you’re hoping to convey with your image.

2. Nail your design In line with your concept, start planning your nail design. Whether you decide to work on press-ons to be worn on the shoot day or create your design on set, ensure you’re clear about what you’re producing, and be realistic when it comes to timing.

3. Know the criteria

In the whirlwind of creativity, be sure to pay close attention to the rules. It’s vital to understand the criteria your entry will be marked against. Scan here to read it

54 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

4. Choose your photographer Make enquiries with local photographers or seek recommendations. Try to speak in person to gauge their passion and enthusiasm and explore their photography style. Do you like their individual style and the work in their portfolio? Check that you are happy with the quality of their photography and post-production results. Be clear about what you’re hoping to achieve with your image and the project’s timeline. Discuss your budget and don’t forget to ask about any additional costs, such as retouching or expenses on the shoot day.

5. Select your model As the face – or hands – of your image, your model choice is an important one. Your model should tie together your concept and highlight your hard work. Consider using a modelling or talent agency for a reliable, professional outcome and obtain a signed model release for the images produced.

INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

6. Assemble your styling team Great hair and make-up don’t happen by accident, so consider approaching fellow pros to help bring your concept to life. Seek out local networking events for creatives or do your research into nearby businesses. If you’re on a tight budget, consider working with your local college to help keen students gain insight and experience.

7. The location & logistics As soon as you’ve assembled your team, set the photo shoot date and location and communicate regularly. Ensure everyone receives all the project details, including who else is involved and what to bring. A day or two before the shoot, contact your team to confirm details and answer any lastminute questions.

8. The shoot day Allow time for proper hand and nail preparation. Pay close attention to application and the skin around the nail. Also ensure the make-up and hair teams are considered, and don’t be afraid to speak up at the shoot. You know your vision and how you want to showcase your nail work. The model’s pose should pull focus to the nail design to score well. Listen to those around you, too. They may have suggestions worth noting.

Q&A: Wendy Hope, beauty photographer Scratch chats to Wendy Hope, a photographer from the US who specialises in beauty imagery and has worked on campaigns for a number of beauty brands. Wendy has also photographed front cover images for Scratch. What is your advice for the photo shoot? Prepare well. Being extra is part of the creative process, so own it! Research the concept and create your own inspiration mood boards. Show up to the shoot with two or more suitcases of exciting, shiny new objects. I would recommend preparing and creating different nail looks, shapes and colours prior to the shoot, with resources to allow for spontaneous looks. What should be considered in terms of posing? I always take into consideration hand size, finger size, cuticles, nail beds, knuckles and hand and finger angles. Are you shooting a face model along with a parts model? Is the hand model experienced with an understanding of how their hands and fingers photograph – with and without objects or props? The inside of the palm is just not that attractive. How can you keep focus on the nails and nail art, while engaging in the entire editorial visual narrative and while maintaining continuity? You want the hands to look pretty and not like an octopus, so gentle positions without strain in the hands and fingers are best. Always moisturise the hands and cuticles! A fist closing gently on a sleeve or hands and fingers across the face works well. What should be considered after the photo shoot? Go into the post-production retouch process and have a phone call or two to discuss the details. The photographer will expect to hear your feedback and retouch requests, and will respect your thoughts.

9. Enter!

When you are ready, head to www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/shootout and via the online form, you’ll be able to upload your highresolution images in an A4 format. Entry costs just £25 per image submitted and the fee can be paid online.

What is your advice for retouching? This is all subjective and really depends on the skillset of the nail artist, the photographer and their lighting, the hand model, as well as current trends regarding retouching. I always try to do my best to get it right on camera and not depend on post-production retouch, although I do use it. Refine and develop your craft and skills, and don’t depend on post-production retouching to correct mistakes or oversights in haste. How do you choose the best images from the shoot? This shoot is usually a collaboration, so be prepared to have several, if not many, cooks in the kitchen. If you’re working with a great team, you’ll often know at the time that you have the best shot based on reactions.

10. Shout about it

The final shoot photos will help build your portfolio of work and bolster your marketing: perfect for attracting new clients and exciting career opportunities. Please refrain from sharing your Shoot Out entry on social media until Voter’s Choice Week.

www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/shootout /scratchmag

@scratchmagazine

The photographer is usually listening for that feedback and marking favourites, which makes editing easier on the back end of the production. This is where you need to trust the process and your team. It takes a nation of millions and there is no ‘I’ in ‘team’. www.wendyhopephotography.com @wendyhoperocks

Scan here to enter The Great Scratch Shoot Out 2023 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 55

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WORKWEAR&APPAREL

Elevate your

Style

Function meets fashion in CHLOE RANDALL’S roundup of stylish & practical workwear options for salon, home-based & mobile nail pros A change in season is soon to be upon us, so now’s the time to consider changing up your work wardrobe with styles that are not only comfortable, but give a great first impression. “Nail and beauty professionals should dress in a way that reflects their brand’s personality and values while prioritising comfort, practicality and safety,” Susan Nguyen comments Susan Nguyen, founder of The Nail Group, Scratch Stars Nail Salon of the Year finalist 2023. “Balancing self-expression with professionalism creates a positive impression on clients and ensures a conducive work environment.”

Uniforms: in numbers

“At Beauty and Aesthetics at the Gate, all staff members are provided with two pairs of trousers and three tunics as a minimum when joining the team. We add to this approximately every six months,” comments Samantha Beatty, owner of Scratch Stars Nail & Beauty Salon of the Year 2023, Beauty and Aesthetics at the Gate. “We ask that a clean uniform is worn each day.”

Samantha Beatty

“Washing and wearing the same uniform five days a week is not the best idea,” shares Grace Crowley. “If you can, invest in at least one other uniform and ensure each tunic is not subjected to the rigours of the washing machine every day. A spare uniform will also take away the temptation to throw a uniform into the tumble dryer when it isn’t advised on the care label.”

Sustainability

In an increasingly eco-conscious society, consider the sustainability of your uniform options.

“A uniform is really important in a salon setting,” states Grace Crowley, managing director at Buttercups Uniforms. “First impressions matter in business, and one of the Grace Crowley best ways to give a good first impression is through a smart, professional uniform. If a therapist is well presented, their clients will feel that they’re in good hands and that the treatment they will receive will also be professional. “Studies have shown that uniforms increase an employee’s sense of pride in their work, as well as their feeling of personal responsibility towards giving the best service to their clients. An aesthetically pleasing and flattering uniform can also improve their self-esteem, making them happier and more motivated in their work.”

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Buttercups B670 2L Chic Triangle Detail Breathable Tunic £41.99 + VAT www.buttercupsuniforms.com This tunic, available in three shades, is made from Buttercups’ 2Life Eco sustainable breathable fabric, a ‘synthetic cotton’, made entirely from recycled plastic bottles.

WORKWEAR&APPAREL

Seasonal options

Inclusivity

Material and size choice is key, to ensure you remain comfortable throughout the work day. Find a uniform that suits all weather or change up options from season to season.

“At Diamond Designs Uniforms, we believe that uniforms should be inclusive to Mandy Campbell all, by offering styles in a wide range of sizes so that everyone can find their perfect fit,” shares Mandy Campbell, digital marketing specialist at Diamond Designs Uniforms. “I advise choosing a non-gendered colour that will align with your brand, as well as a neutral fit for all body types.” Origins Alpha Unisex Top £19.90 inc VAT

“It is important that www.diamonddesignsuniforms.com uniforms are inclusive to all, which is why at Scrubs UK, we offer sizes XXS to 5XL in a range of styles and colours to suit everyone,” adds Gill Kesteven, business development manager at uniform provider, Scrubs UK. “Some of our brands also have a choice of styles in both tops and trousers, to Gill Kesteven allow members of staff to choose a slightly different style of uniform but in the same colour. No-one should have to compromise on comfort and everyone has the right to feel good, especially at work.”

“In the summer season, I give staff the option to wear black shorts with their tunic, instead of trousers,” reveals Michelle Brookes, founder of Beauty Lounge, Scratch Stars Nail & Beauty Salon of the Year finalist Michelle Brookes 2023. “Alternatively, they can wear a branded grey apron over a thin black dress. I want the team to feel comfortable and as cool as possible. This winter, we are considering branded zip-up hoodies to wear when it gets cold.” “Comfort is a top priority for us, so we make adjustments to our attire based The team at Beauty Lounge, on the weather,” Doncaster in branded grey tunics. adds Susan Nguyen. “During the summer, we opt for lighter fabrics that allow us to stay cool and comfortable, while maintaining a professional appearance. In the winter, we focus on wearing fabrics that provide warmth without compromising our ability to move with ease. This ensures that employees can work comfortably in any season while still upholding a professional image.”

La Beeby Traditional Tunics from £27.95 inc VAT www.scrubsuk.com

It is also important to consider maternity options when choosing your uniform. For pregnant women, comfort is key so it is imperative that you have options to cater for this.

Maternity Tunic in White £31.56 inc VAT www.diamonddesignsuniforms.com

“No-one should have to compromise on comfort and everyone has the right to feel good, especially at work.” Gill Kesteven

Branding “Personalised and branded clothes are a great way to look professional,” says Julie-Anne Larivière, Salon System expert. “I personally prefer embroidered logos for clothes, as these are likely to last longer Julie-Anne Larivière than printed logos. For even more brand awareness, you can opt for extras such as towels, mugs, pens and notepads.” “What you wear should reflect your brand and your identity,” comments Grace Crowley. “Colour is an important

B620LS Waist-Detail Tunic with Long Sleeves £42.99 + VAT www.buttercupsuniforms.com

If you are looking for a little more coverage during the winter months, choose longsleeved tunics, for added warmth without losing any practicality. You could also implement uniform pieces such as cardigans, fleeces and soft-shell jackets.

consideration, as is your logo or brand guidelines, because these impact the colour choice of your uniforms, especially if you would like to add your logo crest/print or badge on your uniforms. Any logo embroidery should stand out and look great.” Buttercups Uniforms offer a choice of embroidery services, through which you can either upload your own logo or choose from a pre-set range of fonts for your company name. For more information, visit www.buttercupsuniforms.com/p/logo-services

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WORKWEAR&APPAREL

Accessories

A therapist at Beauty and Aesthetics at the Gate during a treatment, wearing a sleek grey tunic.

Care

“Look for strong, high-quality material with excellent finishing on the seams,” recommends Grace Crowley. “Investing in high-quality workwear-standard material will pay off in terms of durability, and help keep the uniform looking new for a long time. Secondly, find out the care instructions before you buy and follow them to the letter. Ideally, a uniform can be thrown into the washing machine at the end of the day and require little other maintenance.

If you’re happy with your uniform choice, turn your mind to accessories, such as name badges, scarves or shoes. “In our luxury pedicure room, where shoes TNG Flip-Flops £20 inc VAT are not allowed, www.thenailgroup.co.uk we opt for white branded flipflops as our footwear choice,” comments Susan Nguyen. “They provide comfort to our staff while allowing us to showcase our beautiful toes to clients, simultaneously promoting our services. “During the summer, we wear these flip-flops, and in the autumn and winter, we switch to beige plimsolls for added warmth and protection.”

“Finally, ensure that you wear your uniform solely for work, only getting into it before you leave and changing immediately when you get home. Cooking and eating while wearing your uniform will increase your chances of spilling something on your tunic.” “Never bleach or boil wash your beauty uniform. Instead, wash it inside out at 40 degrees or as directed, with similar colours,” adds Mandy Campbell. “Look after your uniform and it will look after you,” states Samantha Beatty. “In our industry, we work with lots of products that can cause stains, so it’s important to treat these as soon as possible to avoid permanent damage. However, if you are using professional salon uniforms, they are designed to minimise staining. We use branded aprons, which can be added to our uniform for certain treatments such as waxing, to add an extra layer of protection for the uniforms.”

Lovelle Salonwear Crystal Pumps £15 inc VAT www.lovellesalonwear.com Nail Tech Apron £18 + VAT www.nailorder.co.uk

The GelBottle Inc Apron £20 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

Glitterbels Full Apron in Pink £30 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

Fabric

Simki Scrubs from £26.50 inc VAT www.scrubsuk.com

READER OFFER!

Quote SCRATCH10 at www.scrubsuk.com to get 10% off Simki, La Beeby, Skechers and Greys Anatomy scrubs! Skechers Scrubs from £22.15 inc VAT www.scrubsuk.com 60 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

“Choose a fabric and style that is both comfortable and smart,” recommends Julie-Anne Larivière. “The fabric should be high quality, so it still looks presentable after multiple washes. I recommend washing uniforms in warm/hot water to kill germs and bacteria.”

Lovelle Salonwear Love Kiki Set £40 inc VAT www.lovellesalonwear.com

WORKWEAR&APPAREL

Comfort

Does your brand suit a more relaxed workwear vibe? Balance cosy with professional via fashionable options with the addition of your logo.

The team at The Nail Group, London, opt for a comfortable uniform of a branded sweater.

I Do Nails Sweatshirt £10 + VAT www.nailorder.co.uk

“As we offer multiple treatments in the salon, I sought a uniform that everyone would feel comfortable in,” comments Hannah Quilliam, Glitterbels education ambassador. “I chose vests and waist aprons Hannah Quilliam featuring the salon logo to allow each tech to be comfortable and still wear the clothes they prefer underneath. I feel that their personalities are expressed through what they choose to wear, and it adds to our overall salon environment and customer experience.”

“What you wear should reflect your brand and your identity. Colour is an important consideration, as is your logo or brand guidelines because these impact on the colour choice of your uniforms.” Grace Crowley

Other rules “We embrace individual style and personality at our nail salon,” states Susan Nguyen. “While we have guidelines for hygiene and safety reasons, such as tying up long hair and ensuring piercings don’t interfere with the service, we do not have strict rules on tattoos or hairstyles. We believe in creating a welcoming environment, where our staff can express their personal style while maintaining a professional appearance.” “We feel that our team should be able to bring an element of their personality to their style, however we do ask that they look professional, as they embody the ethos of our salon,” adds Samantha Beatty. “Shoulder length hair must be tied back and we ask that jewellery is minimal to avoid any issues when performing treatments,” she continues. We encourage our therapists to express their personality and showcase clean, well manicured fingers and toes.”

The team at Miss Lucy showcasing branded, comfy merchandise. For more info, visit www.misslucy.uk

The GelBottle Inc Joggers £30 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

Convenience

“When purchasing a uniform, be sure to refer to the size guide, as sizes may vary between brands,” suggests Mandy Campbell. “We recommend to size up if you are between sizes, to ensure maximum comfort and movement while at work. Also, consider the various functions you may need throughout the day, such as zips to easily get the uniform on and off, and pockets to hold your essentials.” “When choosing a uniform, I involve the entire team,” shares Loretta Walker, founder of Scratch Stars Nail & Beauty Salon of the Year finalist 2023, The Nail & Beauty Lounge. “I will usually purchase a few different items in various sizes and see what looks good on a hanger. Once the staff have tried them Loretta Walker on, they might not be practical to do the job or might not suit them. I also consider the fabric: will it wash easily? Does it crease easily? Will it get dirty and show marks during the working day?” “As Beauty and Aesthetics at the Gate approaches its 10-year anniversary, it’s safe to say we have been through our fair share of uniforms, from traditional tunics to leggings and branded t-shirts,” reflects Samantha Beatty. “However, what we have learned is that it is best to invest in the highest quality uniforms you can, as they will last longer and save money in the long run. “You should consider inclusive sizing, availability for matching dresses should therapists request these, availability for re-ordering, delivery times and exchange and refund policies. In addition, choose an established supplier, should you need additional options at a later date for new staff members.” B392 Zip Front Tunic with Pockets £36.99 + VAT www.buttercupsuniforms.com The large front pockets and zip opening at the front of this tunic make for a practical clothing item for a beauty professional. Available in black and navy. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 61

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Tech for TECH-NOLOGY

Techs

REBECCA HITCHON gets the scoop on high-tech launches, decodes hot topics & sources tech-savvy tips for your business

Instagram.com/shortcircuitnails

Virtual ambassadors & the nail industry

Last year, NARS Cosmetics launched Power Players, three ‘meta-humans’ representing the brand’s best-selling Powermatte Lipsticks and the women who might wear them. Each has a unique look, personality and back story. Maxine is inspired by candy apple red lipstick, Dragon Girl, and is described by NARS as someone “dropping exclusive tracks, testing experimental sounds and growing a community of cutting-edge artists.” Chelsea represents dusty rose shade, American Woman, and is said to “[embed] freedom and confidence into her everyday life.” Sissi takes inspiration from maple red lipstick, Too Hot Too Hold. NARS notes that her “passion and creative expression are what make her Too Hot To Hold.”

NARS virtual ambassador, Chelsea, characterises the American Woman lipstick shade.

Instagram.com/maybelline

Lauren Dyer, director of strategic partnerships at Dimension, the virtual worlds and humans creator behind the avatars, comments: “NARS’ Power Players are bespoke product ambassadors – influencers who truly embody the legendary brand. As both companies and consumers explore what the metaverse means to them, virtual humans are increasingly key to authentic and meaningful experiences.” But with many sceptical about the authenticity of digital ambassadors, plus their ability to build connections between consumers and brands or show how products truly look, companies are utilising avatars with a focus on fun. In March, Maybelline New York launched virtual ambassador, May, to promote its Falsies Surreal Extensions Mascara. “When a mascara delivers a transformation as surreal as this, it takes something just as surreal to introduce it,” states Shivani Shah, senior VP of global brand experience at Maybelline. So, can consumers embrace the playfulness of virtual brand ambassadors, or is the lack of relatability too tricky to get on board with? Research suggests that the latter may be the case. According to resource for influencers and creators, Influencer Marketing Hub, consumers are more likely to respond to figures they find relatable, with micro-influencers (those with between 1,000 and 100,000 followers) becoming increasingly popular. Suited to smaller industries like the nail sector, including in terms of budget, this influencer type is more authentic, relatable and trustworthy, with a more engaged audience because of this.

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Instagram.com/narsissist

The virtual ambassador is not a new innovation, having been spotted in campaigns by car and mobile phone companies and in a number of fashion shows. But while avatars may not seem like an obvious option to promote beauty products, their computer-generated nature means that they can be tailored to the needs of a brand; often at a lower cost than a celebrity ambassador.

Is this what a virtual nail ambassador could look like? @shortcircuitnails uses artificial intelligence to create a nail design concept.

While reflecting on the authenticity of digital ambassadors, it’s important to consider the power they have to create impossible beauty standards, encouraging users to strive for an appearance that isn’t real, much like social media filters. In the nail industry, these avatars could encourage clients to request unrealistic designs or strive for flawless hands and feet without any common issues, putting nail techs under increased pressure to satisfy clients. Information technology consultancy firm, Gartner, predicts that by 2025, an average of 30% of influencer and celebrity marketing budgets will be dedicated to virtual influencers, but I’m not so sure. Modern consumers don’t want to aspire; they want to relate and be empowered, and the number of virtual ambassadors launched for a short time or for just one campaign proves this. The nail industry is one that thrives on connection, so digital ambassadors don’t seem likely to replace humans just yet.

BUSINESSMATTERS

TAKE A

Break

Are you selfemployed & in need of some days off? CHLOE RANDALL explores the importance of annual leave & how to prepare for time away from the nail desk

A whopping 73% of small & medium business owners (SMEs) take fewer than 20 days of annual leave per year, according to analysis by insurance provider, Simply Business, and the Mental Health At Work programme. In addition, over half of SME owners (56%) say they have experienced poor mental health in the last 12 months: a 124% increase on the national average. To explore further, Scratch polled its Instagram followers, with most respondents (62%) revealing that they take less than 20 days a year as annual leave. In contrast, 34% shared that they take more than 20 days, and 4% take their allotted amount. Being self-employed offers the freedom to take time off when desired. However, it does mean a loss of income when not working, which can discourage pros to take their required rest days. It is also very easy to continue to book clients in for appointments, without considering potential holiday days. Working around your client’s availability and their nail needs can often get in the way of fitting time in for yourself, which can lead to burnout. With this in mind, Scratch explores the importance of annual leave and the measures that pros can take to ensure they take breaks...

Why is annual leave important? What is the UK annual leave entitlement? According to GOV.UK, the statutory annual leave entitlement for a full-time UK worker is 28 paid days per year. The findings by Simply Business and Mental Health at Work, revealed that almost one in six of the SME workers surveyed believe that a lack of time off is directly impacting their mental health, and 90% said that they believe the government is not currently doing enough to support the mental health of the self-employed.

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“Annual leave days are an essential part of a work-life balance and employee wellbeing,” states Martin Durrant, founder of the Secret Salon Club. “The importance of annual leave days cannot be overstated. They help to reduce stress levels, prevent burnout, and improve mental health. Taking regular breaks Martin Durrant from work allows professionals to recharge, and return to work with renewed energy and focus. Studies have shown that professionals who take regular breaks are more productive and perform better than those who do not.”

BUSINESSMATTERS

“The importance of annual leave days cannot be overstated. They help to reduce stress levels, prevent burnout, and improve mental health. Taking regular breaks from work allows professionals to recharge and return to work with renewed energy and focus.” TECH TALK

Self-employed nail pros share how they manage time off around their commitments... Adelina Walker, owner of Hello Beautiful Nail Bar, Scratch Stars Home Salon of the Year finalist 2023, agrees that taking time off leads to a greater working performance and is beneficial to mental health. “I used to get 28 days off a year, or slightly more, when I worked in a corporate job. This was prior to taking the plunge and working on a self-employed basis, full-time, last September,” she comments. “At the moment, I’m looking to match that as much as possible, as my schedule is full and I have no childcare for my five-year-old. I tried working without much of a break, but found that burnout leads to poor performance. I’m present in my daughter’s life, I get to unwind and start afresh for another busy season.” Adelina Walker

However, for small business owners like Shannon McKenna of Larabella Beauty, Co. Armagh, taking time off is too challenging. “I cant really afford to take many annual leave days,” she shares. “Not only is it hard to build up a safety net of cash to cover the days when I will be closed and losing money, but I also Shannon McKenna don’t have any cover to take the clients that would normally be booked in for an appointment. “I’m very fortunate that my clients are block booked, months in advance, but it also makes it difficult to manoeuvre them to other slots if I do need to take a day off. It’s just easier to keep working, and to commit to family plans on Sundays. “I’ll only take annual leave if we’re physically going on holiday as a family,” adds home-based nail artist, Stacie Manderfield of Nails by Stacie, Staffordshire. “The cost of living has impacted us as a whole, so I hate the thought of having unpaid time Stacie Manderfield off work as a self-employed person. I also sometimes feel guilty if I am unable to accommodate my clients, so I only take annual leave when it is really needed. My workload increases before and after a break from work, and trying to cram clients in either side of a week or two is too stressful sometimes!”

How can self-employed nail pros prepare for time off?

Sarah Hartley

“Taking some time to plan and prioritise your work is so important,” shares Sarah Hartley, founder of Blossom Tree Social and finalist in the Scratch Stars Nail Business Mentor Award category 2023. “This way, you know what you have time to achieve before you take time off, and you can set realistic working goals. This supports a good work/life balance.

“Some clients expect you to squeeze them into your busy day and I know that many nail pros don’t take a lunch break. It’s important to look after yourself in order for you and your business to grow successfully.” “Nail techs can implement policies for being late to appointments to ensure there are boundaries set, as in the lead up to having time off, multiple clients being late could mean you run out of working hours,” adds Ruth Munro, Scratch Stars Shooting Star Award finalist 2023. “Techs should schedule holidays well in advance and Ruth Munro ensure they have a manageable weekly hour schedule. My hourly rate accounts for six weeks of annual leave, which ensures I am paid for the holidays I take.”

Janine Mander

“I save money before any time off, to replace what I wouldn’t be earning during that time. I’m also very clear with my clients about the amount of time I will be taking, and a I give them plenty of notice to plan around this,” concludes Janine Mander, Birmingham-based nail tech.

If you are a self-employed pro who works for an agency or on a freelance basis for various companies on a regular basis, GOV.UK has created a handy tool to calculate holiday pay. Scan here to view

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

THE

mobile CLUB

Award-winning mobile nailist, CLARE WOODCOCK, shares top tips for making a success out of working on the move

WINNER

ABOUT CLARE WOODCOCK

Clare Woodcock is founder of The Nail Club, a mobile beauty business based in Sunbury upon Thames, Surrey. She began her nail industry journey in 2017, following 20 years in the music and entertainment sector as a senior PR manager and event producer. Clare trained with Gelish and has since expanded her nail and beauty knowledge with Bio Sculpture, Nouveau Lashes and HD Brows. She was awarded gold at the British Hair & Beauty Awards 2021 for Mobile Therapist of the Year, and scooped the Scratch Stars Mobile Nailist of the Year title in 2022, and in July 2023. Clare also works as director of communications for the Federation of Nail Professionals (FNP).

4 ways to utilise technology as a mobile pro

unning your own business means that you wear a lot of hats. Not only are you the nail talent, but you are the marketing guru, bookkeeper, business development manager, stock controller and diary keeper.

We are living in a technological world, where we can utilise software to enhance our business, increasing efficiency and freeing up time for more of the client-facing work that we love. So, if you’re starting out as a mobile pro or are tired of running things by pen and paper, here are my technology tips:

1. Set up an online booking system

As a business owner and mum of two boys, I do not have the time or capacity to keep track of phone calls, messages, texts and DMs. Before I welcomed my first paying client, I set up an online booking system, which is easy to do, and most have tutorials and blogs to help you get started. Many clients prefer booking online in their own time. If you’ve marketed your business correctly, they’ll book the right treatment from the information presented to them. Having a booking system also means that your cancellation policy can be easily administered, as clients must enter their card details to secure their appointment, making actioning a cancellation Scan here and use fee much simpler. You can customise your code THENAILCLUB system to take deposits if you wish, too. for 50% off your first three months of Timely (new customers only)

I use Timely and cannot recommend it enough. I have automated messages set up, so clients receive appointment reminders, consultation forms, ‘thank you’ messages, aftercare advice, prompts to review and offers if they’ve not booked for a while. I can also analyse my business via Timely’s informative reports and analytics.

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2. Use accounting software

Accounting systems, such as QuickBooks, Xero, Sage and Crunch, each offer various options to suit your needs. I use QuickBooks Self-Employed for its ease, app functionality and because it records travel in my car. This means I can track mileage for every booking, simplifying my travel expenses.

Scan to sign up for QuickBooks and you could receive a £50 Amazon voucher!

3. Utilise communication software

Communicating with your past, present and future clients is a great marketing tool. I use Mailchimp to send out regular emails and newsletters, and WhatsApp Business to send messages about cancellations, extra appointment slots and new retail products to selections of clients, known as ‘broadcast lists’.

4. Create a website

You don’t need to be an IT whizz to create a website. It is your shopfront, will attract clients and ensures your business looks professional. I used Squarespace to create my website, but a popular design platform is Wix. Creating a site takes time and patience, but there are many templates you can adapt. There is a monthly cost involved, so add this into your pricing calculator to ensure you’re charging enough to cover this. It’s time to get techy or get left behind! Until next month,

Clare

www.thenailclub.uk /thenailclublondon @thenailclublondon

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

READERS GALLERY Home salon owner, MAGDA RYCHLIK, shares her favourite nail styles, products & future career moves

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

Name – Magda Rychlik Age – 29 Business name – The Nails Lab Location – Falkirk, Scotland Years in nails – I first showed an interest in nail art and colour over a decade ago, and started my professional career around two and a half years ago. Trained with – I completed most of my training with Indigo Nails educator, Dominika Satro, in Manchester. I use Indigo Nails products in my home salon, as I love the brand and application techniques for its products. Favourite products – I enjoy using selflevelling gel and the Indigo Nails TipTop Top Coat, because it leaves a lasting shine for up to four weeks.

Favourite nail technique – Gel or builder gel enhancements protect my clients’ natural nails, allowing them to grow, and I love seeing how happy they are with the results. Favourite nail design – I regularly try new styles, but particularly enjoy creating ombré and marble effects, painting swirls and adding glitter. Career ambition & vision – I want to become an educator and open a larger salon, so I can employ a team of fellow pros to work alongside me. I’d also like to venture into the competition arena. What do you love about the nail industry? The nail sector is constantly evolving, with new products to excite and enhance my creativity. I get so much satisfaction from my work and enjoy that my role is fastpaced. It’s stimulating and never boring! /nailslabbymagda @nailslabbymagda

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BUSINESSMATTERS

Managing maternity REBECCA HITCHON serves up advice on how to support employees at each stage of the maternity journey

The personal care industry is female-dominated, with over four times as many women as men, according to the British Beauty Council’s The Value of Beauty report 2023. With this comes an opportunity to support women trying to conceive (TTC), those that are pregnant and new mothers. Is your nail business equipped with the knowledge and resources to do this? Maybe you are TTC, pregnant or a mother, so are you utilising this understanding to aid employees? Current statistics highlight the need for supportive businesses. One in nine mothers have been dismissed, forcibly made redundant or treated so poorly they felt they had to leave their job, and one in five have experienced harassment or negative comments related to pregnancy in the workplace. This is according to research commissioned by the Department for Business, Innovation & Skills and the Equality & Human Rights Commission. Scratch has sourced expert guidance to help your nail business be a positive space for employees at any stage of the maternity journey: from trying to conceive to being a new mum.

THOSE TRYING TO CONCEIVE One in six people worldwide are affected by infertility, according to the World Health Organisation. For those trying to conceive, especially over a long period of time, the mental health impacts are profound. A survey of women who’d been TTC for at least a year, commissioned by eco pregnancy test company, Hoopsy, reveals the isolation experienced. One in four reported feeling upset seeing pregnant women, and one in five said they avoid places where babies will be. The survey coincides with the launch of a free fertility community by Hoopsy, available via community.hoopsy.com.

How to support

Lily Snape

“If a person experiencing fertility issues has trusted you enough to confide in you about this, you should be respectful and keep this information confidential,” notes Lily Snape, owner of Lancashire salon, Beauty Bungalow. “Ensure you listen and validate the person’s feelings, and don’t minimise their situation or compare. “Also, be sensitive if talking about pregnancy or children.”

The Fertility in the Workplace (FITW) initiative from patient-focused fertility charity, Fertility Network UK, is designed to help businesses of all sizes to implement fertility policies and ensure staff understand the complex impact of infertility and its treatment. Research from the organisation shows that people experiencing fertility problems are reluctant to speak to their employer, due to fear of the career effects, and managers feel overwhelmed by discussing the issue. 72 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Seema Duggal

“FITW provides tailored support to help employees and managers understand the emotional, physical, financial and social toll of infertility,” shares Seema Duggal, Fertility in the Workplace development officer. “If employers have the necessary information and confidence, they enable staff going through fertility treatment to feel supported.

“Understanding the demands of treatment is also key. Our research found that the average person going through an IVF cycle will need eight to 10 flexible working days. Clinic appointments often overrun or must be booked at the last minute, meaning flexibility is essential. Yet, there is no legal right to time off work for fertility treatment, so annual leave or unpaid leave is often taken.” For more information on Fertility in the Workplace, visit www.fertilitynetworkuk.org

Seema’s 5 top tips for salon managers

1. You don’t have to act as a medical expert for an employee experiencing infertility; you need to listen and offer support.

2. Do research and use resources from organisations like Fertility Network UK.

3. Create a plan with the employee to prioritise their fertility treatment. 4. Be available throughout the treatment process. Some people want less involvement than others, but give the option for regular check-ins. 5. Fertility treatment can be mentally and physically exhausting, so offer flexible working and ongoing support.

BUSINESSMATTERS

PREGNANT WOMEN Tech talk

Emily Harris, owner of Vanity Nails & Tanning, Devon, who started maternity leave for her second child in July, shares workplace pointers from her pregnancy…

Emily Harris

“I know that many people in the nail industry feel the need to bend over backwards to accommodate clients, but pregnancy is a time when pros should be ensuring that they’re physically and mentally well. “In the salon, it’s important to ask staff: • ‘Are you comfortable sitting down for extended periods of time, and are you getting enough breaks?’ In asking myself this question, I benefitted from taking 10-minute breaks at the end of each treatment to move around. • ‘Are there any treatments that you find too uncomfortable to do?’ I took pedicure services off my treatment menu, as I was struggling with leaning forward. I was also prepared to limit the length of appointments, for example by no longer offering nail art. • ‘Do you need to reduce your working hours?’ I didn’t need to do this. However, when setting a date to stop working, I was clear with clients that this was only a guide, as pregnancy can be a rollercoaster. “I was open and honest from the start of my pregnancy with clients, telling them about the news in-person for a personal touch and sharing when I plan to return from maternity leave. I’ve ensured that they’re aware that nothing is set in stone and haven’t allowed them to book for future dates, as I could feel differently about my scheduled return after having the baby. Two months before beginning my maternity leave, I sent an email to clients, detailing the options for their nailcare while I’m away and what will happen to unused gift vouchers.”

FACT FILE: MATERNITY LEAVE & PAY • Employees have the right to up to 52 weeks of maternity leave. • Employees may be entitled to statutory maternity pay or if not, they may qualify for maternity allowance, which is also available to self-employed workers. • Employees who suffer a stillbirth after 24 weeks of pregnancy are entitled to 52 weeks of maternity leave and pay. • During maternity leave, employees must receive the contractual benefits they would if at work, such as pay rises, payments into a pension scheme and annual leave accruement.

“Many people in the nail industry feel the need to bend over backwards to accommodate clients, but pregnancy is a time when pros should be ensuring that they’re physically and mentally well.”

NEW MUMS Tech talk

As a new parent, Lily Snape shares her advice for salon managers preparing for a mother’s return to work... “I recommend that employers organise KIT (keep in touch) days during an employee’s maternity leave, minimising how daunting the return to work can feel. This consistent contact is also important, as being at home with a baby can feel isolating. It can be a nice gesture to continue inviting the employee to work events, even if they can’t attend due to family commitments. Providing a suitable, private area in the salon for breastfeeding or expressing will make them feel supported and more comfortable about the return to work, too.”

Postnatal depression: The signs Postnatal depression (PND) affects more than one in every 10 women within a year of giving birth. According to the NHS, the main symptoms include: • Feeling sad, low in mood or tearful much of the time. • Feeling agitated or irritable towards the baby, other children or partner. • Loss of interest in the world and no longer enjoying things. • Lack of energy and tiredness all the time. • Trouble sleeping at night. • Problems concentrating and making decisions. • Loss of appetite or overeating. • Negative thoughts and feelings of guilt, hopelessness and self-blame. • Anxiety that something bad may happen to the baby. • Problems bonding with the baby. If you suspect an employee may be suffering with PND, encourage them to seek the help of a medical professional.

Scan to access the National Hair & Beauty Federation’s pregnancy and parenting guide, which is free to members and offers information on leave, pay, KIT days, returning to work, flexible working and breastfeeding. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 73

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

2023 FINALIST

About Maddi

Maddi Cook is the owner of Boss Your Salon, which helps empower hair and beauty pros to price perfectly, set boundaries and grow without burnout. She strives to ‘put more money into the pockets of the hair and beauty industry’ and believes that business growth is for everyone. Maddi has worked with over 15,000 hair and beauty pros, on her mission to change how the industry values itself. She believes that money is an amplifier; meaning that more money allows workers to do great things: for themselves, their family and their community. Maddi was a finalist in the Scratch Stars Awards 2023 for Services To The Nail Industry.

“Think of why it’s a luxury that you visit your clients. You save them precious time travelling to their appointment, they can fit the service around their schedule, and the experience is one-toone and private.” www.bossyoursalon.com /bossyoursalon @bossyoursalon 74 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Hair & beauty business coach, MADDI COOK, shares top tips to elevate your offerings & enhance your profits

WHY YOU NEED TO STOP MAKING EXCUSES FOR YOUR PRICES

owdy, nail bosses! As someone who specialises in pricing, I wish I had a pound for every time someone said to me: “Maddi, I’d love to charge more but...” followed by an excuse about why they need to keep prices low. Things like: • “I’ve only been doing nails for a year.” • “I just work from home, I don’t have a fancy salon.” • “I’m mobile, so people expect me to charge less.”

No more ‘just’, ‘only’ or ‘little old me’. You have a business, whether you work from your dining table or a swanky salon.

Do any of these sound familiar? Or perhaps you have your own ending for that sentence. If you do, read on to understand why these reasons box you in and limit your growth.

You offer a one-to-one service; it’s cosy, you can stick the latest true crime documentary on Netflix, the client can park on your drive for free, and they can rock up wearing joggers with a messy bun, judgement-free.

“I’ve only been doing nails for a year.”

With the greatest of respect, your clients don’t care. I’m an avid nail client (thanks to Hilda of Hex Nails, the real MVP). I couldn’t care less how many years my nail artist has been in the ‘biz: I care about the nails I have to look at for the next month. Her skills, creativity and ability to turn my 14 completely different inspirational pics into one, brilliant set of nails matters. I certainly wouldn’t go elsewhere just because someone’s worked a decade longer than her. In my experience, I’ve met nail artists who have proudly declared that they’ve been in the industry for three decades, however they hadn’t undergone any further training in 28 years. Subsequently, they couldn’t do any modern finishes, weren’t using any tools that came out in the last decade, and had lost their creative spark. Let your newness be your competitive advantage. Dive into as much education as you can, join industry groups, learn from the nail community and get creative. You’ll soon see why time served isn’t necessarily needed to bring clients through the door.

“I just work from home, I don’t have a fancy salon.”

Firstly, let’s remove a few words from your vocab when you’re referring to your business.

Secondly, there’s nothing wrong with having a salon, but no business model or setup is inherently better than another. If you work from home, think about why your rockstar client would love to come to your house to get their nails done.

“I’m mobile, so people expect me to charge less.”

Let’s begin by throwing anyone who says this, back into the local buy and sell group they came from. These people are not your people. Think about Kimmy K’s hair stylist, Chris Appleton. Do you think that Kim is going to him to get her hair Met Gala ready? Hell no. Chris goes to her, whether that’s in her 7* hotel suite, or flying across the country – or world – to keep her signature locks looking gorgeous. Chris is technically a ‘mobile hairdresser’, but he’s not charging £40 for a colour because he’s worried that people will think he’s ‘not allowed’ to charge salon prices. So again, think about why it’s a luxury that you visit your clients. You save them precious time travelling to their appointments, they can fit their service around their schedule, and just like in the example above, the experience is one-to-one and private. If anything, I believe that mobile techs and artists should charge more than anyone! It’s time you started reframing what you do and how you do it. For the right client, your way is their favourite way.

Maddi x

NAILTRENDS

NOW TRENDING… CALLIE ILEY explores how nail trends are dictated & top tips for staying ahead of the game

The popularity of nail styles varies seasonally, but in a world of social media, the trend cycles seem faster than ever. With a new spin on Hailey Bieber’s glazed donut nails dropping most months and a core aesthetic being the talk of TikTok every few weeks, keeping up with the latest nail and beauty trends can be hard work – and require a lot of time online. Spotting a trend early is invaluable, as it allows you to dive into the look before it becomes oversaturated and overdone. But what is a trend? According to Cambridge Dictionary, a trend is ‘a general development or change in a situation or in the way that people are behaving.’ We see this in the nail world when specific shades or designs gain widespread attention across the industry.

TRENDMAKERS Social media

It’s time to get hashtagging! Platforms like Instagram, TikTok and Pinterest play vital roles in promoting and popularising trends. Chances are, if the look goes viral, it’s going to become a trend.

TV & film

TV and film has a huge influence over trending looks. TV shows such as Nickelodeon’s Spongebob’s Squarepants and Netflix’s Stranger Things have proved to provide plenty of nail inspo, with their characters recreated across a variety of styles. What better way to show some love to your favourite franchise than by making it into a nail look?

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Pinterest Trends showing the top eight searches for nail-related trends on the platform, from 1 June 2022 to 1 June 2023.

Many clients use Pinterest for their nail inspo, with trends becoming clear as searches for specific styles increase. Pinterest has its uses for techs too – turn to page 84 to find out more! Love Disney? Check out this Lion King design by @kellyohstein.

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TikTok has proven itself as a popular source of trending nail looks, with #nails receiving 137.8bn views on the platform. On Instagram, #nailart has gained 126 million posts and #nails has 217 million posts, with new pictures and videos flooding the hashtags daily.

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@witchfacenails serves up this Spongebob character design, featuring Patrick and Gary with a Krabby Patty and jellyfish.

NAILTRENDS

What are aesthetic and core trends?

A garden-inspired Cottagecore style, courtesy of @setsbysenia.

Phrases like ‘clean girl aesthetic’, ‘Barbiecore’ and ‘Cottagecore’ are more popular than ever, but what do they represent? Core trends are now often seen as ‘micro-trends’ – trends that are only popular for a short amount of time; often less than a few months. The concept of micro-trends began long before TikTok, with Tumblr’s rule of the 2010s dictating a lot of the trend cycles of the era. But it’s undeniable that TikTok has had a huge effect on the concept of aesthetics.

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Scratch regularly features trending nail looks and designs, so follow us on social media and check out our website to keep on top of what’s popular in the nail realm. Scan here to check out the trending tag on the Scratch website

@natalieminervanails showcasing Maddy of Euphoria’s popular green nails from the season two finale.

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Maddy’s iconic birthday nails, noted for clashing with her outfit for the ultimate stand-out Euphoria nail style. By @natalieminervanails.

Alexa Demie’s character, Maddy Perez, changed nail style every episode, with her enviable manicures becoming the talk of TikTok throughout season two. She often wore long nail enhancements in eye-catching colours and styles. In contrast, Sydney Sweeney’s Cassie Howard wore softer nail looks to complement her style. Recreating the nail designs seen in Euphoria became extremely popular on social media, with #euphorianails gaining 174.2 million views on TikTok, proving that fans of the show were eager to adopt the looks into their personal style.

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HBO’s Euphoria shook the nail art world, with many of the characters wearing a range of nail designs throughout, complementing the iconic fashion and make-up from the show, and the character’s individual storylines. Euphoria’s nail technician, Natalie Minerva, shared that the actors had input on their press-on nail looks, knowing best the styles they would wear.

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The release of live-action film, The Little Mermaid, saw the rise of the Mermaidcore trend, with pearly embellishments and shimmery, iridescent nail looks taking over our social media feeds.

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Barbiecore began trending long before the release of the highly anticipated Barbie movie starring Margot Robbie. On TikTok #barbienails has gained 31.2 million views, popularising pink, 90s and 00s-inspired styles.

@catquinn shows press-on nails for Euphoria designed by Natalia Minerva, highlighting Maddy and Cassie’s contrasting nail styles.

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Statement pink Barbiecore-style nails by @jellybayn_nails.

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@nailartistrybykylie serves up this nail look inspired by Euphoria’s Cassie.

This Mermaidcore design by @sansungnails looks like it’s straight out of Ariel’s treasure trove.

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Barbie pink French tips by @bycheznails.

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Complete with 3D details and a pearly finish, this Mermaidcore style comes courtesy of @aimz.nails.

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NAILTRENDS

Switching with the seasons

Trendy trailblazers

Nail trends often reflect the seasons, with specific shades and nail art designs ebbing and flowing in popularity throughout the year.

Spotted a stunning mani on your favourite celebrity or influencer? Many of us look to A-list style for inspo, so it’s no surprise that clients often present celebrity looks as their nail visions at salon visits. @nailfreakboutique takes inspiration from the nails that started it all – Zola Ganzorigt’s now-classic glazed donut look.

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Springtime styling tends to see playful pastel hues dominate, progressing to brighter and bolder styles by the summer. Autumnal hues make their return as the weather cools down, with colours getting darker and moodier as winter draws in. The festive season often sees some sparkle added back into designs, while Halloween brings spookier nail art options.

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Male celebrities, such as Harry Styles and A$AP Rocky, have helped lead the way in promoting nail colour and style to a variety of communities, proving the gender neutrality of nail art.

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OPI GelColor in I’m Yacht Leaving £19.90 + VAT www.opiuk.com

With a new twist on the look making its way to our Instagram feeds each month, chrome nails have proved their versatility. The trend has progressed from its subtle and sheer origins to intense, bold styles, with reflective mirror chromes and bright-coloured chromes making a loud statement.

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@nailsbyzola recreating Hailey Bieber’s Tiffany chrome look, using OPI GelColor in I’m Yacht Leaving, with the Stay Strong Base Coat and Stay Shiny Top Coat.

Complete with neons, tie-dye and French tips, @thebeautyroombylauren showcases this summer style.

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You can’t mention celebrity nail trends without bringing up the Hailey Bieber effect. On TikTok, #haileybiebernails boasts over 557 million views, after Hailey Bieber’s glazed donut nails took social media by storm.

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@gellybeannails uses autumnal tones for this gradient manicure.

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Soft pastel hues decorate this alternative French style by @nailsbyharriet_.

@beautybykinaya serves up this style inspired by A$AP Rocky.

Colourful nails for Harry Styles for Gucci Cruise 2020 by @jennynails. Pinterest Trends shows that searches for nail art on Pinterest peak seasonally.

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NAILTRENDS

Fashion-forward looks

London Fashion Week (LFW) autumn/winter 2023 saw nail looks including block colours, 3D and embellished designs, chrome finishes, French and alternative French styles, and clear nail tips. The looks from LFW have had a strong influence over nail trends, with Pinterest searches for related styles soaring.

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Pearl-embellished jelly nails in summery pink and yellow hues, by @nah.nailz.

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Runway shows and fashion shoots have a huge hold over nail trends, with a range of looks served up by session techs to complement fashion collections. Nails are the perfect way to complete an outfit, so it’s no surprise that fashion and nail trends often go hand in hand.

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Cool, clear tips with raindrop details by @thenailbabeuk.

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@nailxbyg adds 3D swirls to this colourful aura nail design.

New York Fashion Week autumn/ winter 2023 saw an influx of jelly nails, versatile aura looks, pearly finishes and stiletto shapes. ark /nailch

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Aura nails have rocketed in popularity, with Pinterest Trends showing searches for the style increasing by 800% in 2023.

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Pinterest Trends showing searches related to looks seen at LFW AW23.

@jark.nails combines the aura and chrome trends for this look.

A pearly chrome finish, courtesy of @nailchark.

Step into the Magentaverse

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@lifelovemani takes inspiration from Viva Magenta using Manucurist’s Green Flash LED Polish in Fuchsia.

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Pantone’s Color Of The Year, Viva Magenta, is a striking hue offering a balance of cool and warm tones. Influencing colour choices across a range of industries, the unconventional shade has proven a popular choice for nail styles and artistry.

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OLYMPIA

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SERVICES&TREATMENTS

Pamper

& party Image courtesy of The Makeup & Hair Bar

Expand your service offering & pull in profit by introducing pamper parties to your menu. CHLOE RANDALL explores the benefits & key points to consider Whether you provide mobile nail and beauty services or run a home or high street salon, pamper parties are an offering that can help boost profits and broaden your clientele. From children’s parties to corporate gatherings, hen dos and baby showers, a pamper party brings together a group of people to immerse in treatments or try out retail items, while sipping a glass of prosecco or indulging in cake and music. Not just an enjoyable event, pamper parties can create memories for clients that will set you apart from the competition. Check out the benefits of this service and what you need to consider before introducing a pamper party offering to your business…

Why introduce pamper parties?

Charlotte Every

“Our services are usually booked weeks if not months in advance,” reveals Charlotte Every, founder of The Perfect Pamper, which offers beauty and wellness services in offices, online and at events. “This enables our therapists and nail techs to schedule their work to fit their own lifestyle. The duration of our average pamper party is three to four hours, which means there is guaranteed income for that time.

“Also, if you are a mobile tech, working can feel quite solitary. Pamper parties are sociable, fun and allow professionals to work within a team.”

Alison Horner

“We love making our clients feel amazing about themselves and believe that pamper sessions are a safe and exciting way to introduce beauty treatments into their lives,” adds Alison Horner, founder of Kent salon brand, The Makeup & Hair Bar, which offers beauty and hair services at events and in the salon.

“Pamper parties are a great experience for both parents and children, and it’s lovely to see children excited by nail colour options. Self-care is important and should be taught from a young age, so pamper sessions offer an ideal opportunity to do this.” 82 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Child considerations

Charlotte Every of The Perfect Pamper, Brighton, suggests points to consider when hosting pamper parties for children…

Adult supervision “When booking a children’s party, establish the itinerary. If the party numbers are over 10, how many adults will be present? Who will be managing the children? “Depending on the age range of the party, enquire about whether the children will be supervised. Our terms and conditions request an adult to always be present in the same room as the treatments are taking place. Our policy is for children to be supervised throughout.”

Pricing “Determine which age groups you would like to offer services to, adjusting the price range to the age of the group. For example, 10-minute mini treatments are great for younger children, but you might want to consider 15 to 20-minute treatments for teenagers.”

Health check “Create a health check and disclaimer for guests, parents and guardians, so you are aware of any health issues or allergies that may affect their experience with you.” www.theperfectpamper.com /theperfectpamper @the_perfect_pamper

SERVICES&TREATMENTS

Marketing magic “Having a dedicated pamper party page on Metta Francis my website is the main way clients find this service,” reveals Metta Francis, Scratch Stars Ultimate Mobile Nailist & founder of mobile business, Nails by Mets. “This means that if someone searches for ‘nail pamper parties in [area]’, my website will appear in the search results. I also post photos from pamper parties and updates on my Google business page and encourage previous pamper party clients to leave feedback. “Having a Google business page is free and is not utilised by many, yet it does wonders for generating business. Think about how many times you use Google to find something! “Word of mouth and referrals are also brilliant ways to promote pamper parties, and let people know you offer this service via your social media channels. People won’t know about it if you don’t talk about it. Testimonials, reviews and high quality images help to showcase your work and build credibility with potential clients, too.” www.nailsbymets.com /nailsbymets nailsbymets

TOP TIP: Visit business.google.com to create a Google business account.

The extra mile

“I always like to provide extras for the special someone, be it the birthday girl, expectant mother or bride/groom to be,” smiles Metta. “It could be a complimentary service upgrade like a luxury scrub and hand mask/ massage, nail art/embellishment, a selection of curated nail polishes or an aftercare pamper package containing products like cuticle oil, a hand mask or hand/foot cream. I also like to offer the planner a little gift, to thank them for choosing Nails by Mets.”

The royal treatment The Makeup & Hair Bar hosts pamper party sessions for parents to book for their children, with sessions for children, including three to eight-yearolds, eight to 12-year-olds and 12 to 16-year olds. “The pamper session for three to eight-year-olds includes a visit from two princesses, a mini manicure and pedicure, make-up, hair styling/plaits and a facial,” comments founder, Alison Horner. “The price is £35 per child and the service lasts around one hour, 15 minutes. The children are also given a pink dressing gown and hair turban to wear, although some like to come in their own princess dress.” Alison adds that the idea to introduce princesses to the fun stems from the fact that it would have been her dream as a child, and brings an element of magic to the experience. “We work with local entertainment company, Once Upon A Wish, by requesting princesses and hiring them for the duration of the events. We have started offering private children’s birthday pamper parties, and the child can choose their favourite princess for the occasion. “Both The Makeup & Hair Bar and Once Upon A Wish are small businesses, so the pamper parties benefit us both and offer exposure to clients that our businesses may not reach alone. The introduction of the princesses has made the pamper experience even more exciting and something that the children will hopefully remember forever. Many of them say ‘this is best day of my life!’ and the princesses really engage with the children. We have had nothing but amazing feedback from parents.” To cater to older children, The Makeup & Hair Bar has tailored its experiences to introduce them to the beauty industry in a safe way. “For children aged eight to 12 years, the treatments include make-up application, hair styling or a blow dry and a full luxury polish manicure and pedicure,” says Alison. “This session is around two hours. The children also get to wear a pink dressing gown and white flip flops for the experience. “For ages 12 to 16, we give the parents the option of services that they would like their teen to enjoy, and they can choose from manicures or pedicures, a spray tan, eyebrow wax, make-up, hair styling/blowdry or a facial. With this age group, they are being introduced to services, and we believe this is the perfect opportunity to set the benchmark of the highest standards for their future beauty bookings. In all pamper sessions we include milkshakes and cupcakes, and for the teen sessions we even offer non-alcoholic cocktails.” www.themakeupandhairbar.com /themakeupandhairbar @themakeupandhairbar

The challenges While pampering and partying sounds fun, running group events does not come without challenges. Techs share how to overcome them… “At social events, clients often drink alcohol – and too much can make treatments challenging,” comments Charlotte Every. “If you are a mobile business and notice drinking when you arrive, gently but firmly speak to the organiser and remind them that you are unable to treat intoxicated clients for their health and for insurance purposes. You can also implement a no-alcohol policy unless you introduce a prosecco extra, which is limited at your discretion. “When working with groups such as hen parties, it’s important to establish the treatment packages before you book the party. Ensure that the clients know what to expect from the treatments they will receive. If you have other nail techs working with you, they must be able to deliver the same treatment within the allocated time frame. “Timings are essential for pamper parties. If you are treating a group of eight guests and run over by five minutes per guest, this will increase the duration of the party by 40 minutes. This may have an impact on the client, especially if they are limited on time.” Metta Francis adds: “There is often a lot of back and forth in the beginning stages of planning a pamper party, so make it clear to the organiser that nothing is confirmed until a non-refundable booking fee is received. You don’t want to save a date for a potential pamper party and lose out on other work if it is unconfirmed.” SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 83

TECH-NOLOGY

POWER Discover how image sharing platform, Pinterest, can be used to benefit your nail business CHLOE RANDALL REPORTS According to social media management site, Combin, 76% of Pinterest users are women, with females aged 25 to 34 dominating the platform. The Scratch Nail Industry Survey 2022 revealed that this age range makes up the majority of nail clients, so embrace your target audience by understanding the social media platform and using it to your advantage.

What is Pinterest?

Pinterest is a social network platform that allows users to visually share (or ‘pin’) images or videos to their own boards, or the boards of others. Boards can also be created with a common theme, for example ‘Christmas nails’. Users can also browse content that others have pinned, and discover those with like-minded interests, pinning their pictures to their boards. You can also upload your own original content to pin, such as: • Photos • Blogs • Videos & tutorials • Promotions & sales • Giveaways • Events • Website content

TOP TIP

“Follow and interact with others to get Yasmin Hodge your work noticed and expand your reach,” says Yasmin Hodge of Gels by Yas, Wolverhampton. “The more you interact, the more likely your profile is to be seen.” 84 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

While Pinterest is a great hub for consumers to source inspiration and ideas across categories such as beauty and fashion, businesses can find value in the app as a marketing tool to showcase products and services. They can also use it to drive traffic to their website and connect with an audience that is actively seeking ideas and inspiration.

Pinterest pointer

Pinterest is not linear, so in contrast to Instagram and Facebook, a post on the platform can appear and be saved years after it is first posted.

How can nail & beauty pros use Pinterest ?

“Pinterest is great for exploring a range of mediums and designs, keeping them on a virtual mind map for reference,” explains Emma Laverton, Glitterbels ambassador & Nailympia medal winner. “I found Pinterest particularly helpful when I was planning my Nailympia entries last year, because I Emma Laverton had a board of inspiration for both categories I entered. Keeping all of the visuals in one place for my themes helped streamline my visions for each creation.”

“I put aside one day each month to schedule my nail pictures to be posted as pins over the next month,” reveals Emily Jones, Scratch Stars Mobile Nailist of the Year finalist 2023. “I also use Pinterest to collect nail inspiration. As the boards are public, clients can have the links to look through them and bring any Emily Jones designs they like to their next nail appointment. I have found that 90% of clients bring inspiration they have seen on Pinterest, so it is a platform I use daily.” “The Glitterbels social media team has different boards for trending nail art throughout the year, as well as inspiration for wedding nails, Y2K styles and so much more,” adds Ebony Shepherd, Glitterbels social media manager. Ebony Shepherd

TECH-NOLOGY

How can Pinterest boost a business or profile? Social media management site, Combin, shares the Pinterest features that can elevate a profile: • Pinterest provides advertising opportunities through various pathways; promoted pins, shopping ads and buyable pins. • Promoted pins are paid advertisements that appear in users’ feeds and search results. Brands can create visually appealing pins and target them to specific demographics, interests or keywords. They blend in with organic content, increasing their visibility and engagement. • Shopping ads include product images, pricing and availability information. When users click on a shopping ad, they are directed to the brand’s website or a specific product page. • Buyable pins allow users to make purchases directly within the Pinterest platform. • Consumers can use Pinterest Analytics to gain valuable insights into audience behaviour, content performance and engagement. Brands can also track metrics such as impressions, clicks, saves and click-through rates to evaluate the effectiveness of their campaigns.

TOP TIP

“Use a platform like Metricool when using Chantelle Parsons Pinterest, so you can schedule and post the same piece of media to every social platform at once. As well as being time-saving, it is an easy way to target many different niches and viewers,” recommends Chantelle Parsons of Blush Makeup & Beauty, Christchurch, New Zealand.

“Pinterest has helped to elevate our online presence,” smiles Ebony Shepherd. “Since starting our Pinterest account, we have had an average of 377,000 monthly views. Knowing that so many people who are interested in nails and nail art trends are looking at our boards each month is amazing.” To explore the business side of Pinterest, visit business.pinterest.com

Get started

To create your Pinterest account, simply head to www.pinterest.com or download the app and click ‘Sign up’ to enter your details. Once you are set up, you can use the search tool to find content and create your first board of nail pics to share with clients and use for inspiration.

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

The

effect Halo VIP, HARI HATFIELD, channels retro styling with a bold, bright nail style that’s ideal for the end of summer & festival season

ABOUT HARI

Hari began working from her home salon in Telford, Shropshire, in October 2020, balancing nail services alongside a full-time role in dentistry. Her artistic gel polish skills caught the attention of the Pure Nails team, and she became a Halo VIP in January 2021. Five months later, Hari began offering beginner and advanced gel polish courses. After welcoming twins in June 2022 and following 10 years in the dental industry, she made the decision to focus solely on her nail business. /nailsbyharieva

SUMMER THROWBACK

Hari uses shades from the Halo Gel Polish Summer Throwback collection to create this look. Step 1 Prep the nails and apply Halo Gel Polish Base Coat or Halo EasiBuild in Cover-Up Pink, depending on the client’s nail needs. Cure, then paint elongated teardrop shapes at either end of each nail, using Halo Gel Polish in Girl Power and a long liner brush, then cure.

Step 2 Outline the teardrop shapes in lines of varying thickness using Halo Gel Polish in Groovy Chick. This will give the effect of a lava lamp. Cure when happy with the result.

@nailsby_harieva Halo EasiBuild in Cover-Up Pink £15.45 + VAT

Step 3 Using the same technique as step two, outline the Groovy Chick swirl with the Halo Gel Polish shade, Oasis, and cure.

5 Halo Gel Polish Non Wipe Top Coat £5.95 + VAT

Halo Gel Polish in Jellies, Oasis, Girl Power, Lime Soda & Groovy Chick £5.95 + VAT each 86 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

TOP TIP

Only use one or two teardrop shapes in your nail design, to prevent it from looking too busy. The teardrop shapes can be placed anywhere on the nail, so mix up the placement across a full set for a striking look.

Step 4 Fill in the remaining space around the Oasis lines using Halo Gel Polish in Lime Soda, ensuring all of the base is covered. Cure. Step 5 Using the Halo Gel Polish shade, Jellies, paint blob shapes over the Lime Soda layer, similar to the very first teardrop shape in step one, then cure. Follow with an application of Halo NonWipe Top Coat. Cure, then finish with cuticle oil.

Halo products are available via www.purenails.co.uk and associated stockists. /purenailsprofessionalnailproducts @purenailsuk

@purenailsuk

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NAILSTYLE&FORM

Extreme designs by award-winning nail artist, Loi Van Nguyen, including a style from The World’s Star Nail Artist competition to celebrate Scratch’s 20th birthday in May.

Into the extreme

Immerse yourself in the art of extreme nail styling, as REBECCA HITCHON rounds up must-see masterpieces & expert advice on the process, from design conceptualisation to finish

hile extreme nail styling can seem an intimidating artform, its challenging nature pushes nail talent to new heights, making it a rewarding skill to master. But beyond that, there is fun to be had, with a larger nail canvas allowing for endless ideas that you can’t create on everyday clients, and an opportunity to showcase your ability and imagination. So, where should you begin? Scratch has sourced expert advice for the extreme nail process, from invention of a design to its decoration.

Dreaming up a design

“When conceptualising an extreme nail, you must consider its shape and length,” says Andreea Simona Ignat, multi award-winning nail tech & educator. “It’s a good idea to draw the shape first, using a pencil and paper.”

Andreea Simona Ignat

Krista Paulitti

Krista Paulitti, international grand master nail educator & extreme style creator, notes that original extreme shapes must be new, unusual and aesthetic. “It can be helpful if you follow fashion trends, as these are often very inspiring, but what you choose to take inspiration from is always a matter of taste. Not everyone likes everyone, and it’s the same with nail styling,” she states.

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Nicola Sawyer, award-winning nail artist & educator of Nail Couture Lincoln, shows how she took an extreme nail design from paper to reality.

NAILSTYLE&FORM

Krista Paulitti has created two extreme nail shapes for 2023, Empeeror and Wisiion.

Competition claws

Scratch’s sister organisation, Nailympia Competitions, offers pros the chance to conceptualise and create a new nail style via its Invent A Nail Shape category. Entry for the online category is open for Nailympia London, with a registration deadline of 11 August and a submission deadline of 18 August. The theme for 2023 is Arabian Nights.

Nailympia London Invent A Nail Shape: The rules

“Let your imagination and creativity guide your hands.” Alexandra Méhész

• Freehand sculpt one nail measuring over two inches from the cuticle. The more skills and creativity shown, the better. • Any nail product may be used, with the likes of crystals, rhinestones and bullion beads accepted for design purposes. • Photograph the nail from above, the side and underneath, and submit 50 words in English to explain the process, skill and theme.

Tech talk

Anastasia Totty of the USA won the first place prize for the division three Invent A Nail Shape category at Nailympia Orlando 2023. “The theme was ‘Dancer’ and my winning design was inspired by a gypsy dancing by the fire,” she shares. “I had the idea to create a spiral nail shape to depict a spinning skirt with the reflection of flames, and brought this to life using hard gel and multiAnastasia Totty coloured translucent glass gels, before applying clear sculpting gel and glossy top coat to create textured swirls.” Anastasia’s advice to those entering the Invent A Nail Shape category is to sketch nail ideas when they come to mind, making sure to stay on-theme but seeking out a twist that could give you a winning edge. “Study the judges’ score sheets, because even the most creative idea will lose points if it is not clean and neatly presented,” she adds.

Tech talk

Alexandra Méhész of Hungary scooped second place in the Nailympia Orlando 2023 Invent A Nail Shape category, division three. “Typically, I Alexandra Méhész create more wearable extreme nails, but the competition allowed me to bring my wildest ideas to life and explore a truly extraordinary nail shape,” she tells Scratch. “When I learned of the theme, it was the colourful world of Latin dances that captivated my imagination, in particular the Rio Carnival, and I found a photo that inspired me. My design aims to capture the contours of a samba dancer.” When asked what nail techs should consider when creating an extreme nail shape, Alexandra advises allowing time to develop a personal style. “When you come across a piece of work that is similar to what you had envisioned for a design, instead of copying it, let your imagination and creativity guide your hands,” she recommends.

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NAILSTYLE&FORM

Making a masterpiece

Form fitting & sculpting

Nicola Sawyer

“Correct form placement is paramount, as the angle at which it’s fitted has a huge impact on how the extreme nail will sit,” reveals Nicola Sawyer. “High-quality forms will make your work easier and should be firm, hold their shape and have excellent adhesion.”

Andreea Simona Ignat agrees: “Having a well-positioned nail form will give you a better chance of being able to cleanly apply product, ensuring you don’t have to file much.” Nicola suggests using two nail files held together with an elastic band (like a crocodile mouth) to help close a form evenly without any creasing. “If you kink the form, take it off and start again. The imperfection will be extremely difficult to file out and hide,” she says.

IIona Vas

Ilona Vas, award-winning pro, international nail coach & head of training centre, MB Centras Oniksas, suggests striving for slim lines when sculpting an extreme nail. “Less is more. Don’t overload your work with unnecessary, heavy details, as elegance will never go out of fashion,” she comments. Find out about Ilona’s coaching services at www.oniksas.eu When aiming for these slim lines, Louise Callaway, Glitterbels educator, stresses that your work must be consistently inspected. “The spine of an extreme nail needs to be horizontally straight from the side view, which is achieved with good filing technique and looking at the nail from every angle,” she notes.

Louise Callaway

Andreea Simona Ignat adds that slim shapes bring the challenge of trying not to break their thin tips when filing. “To ensure you don’t break a tip, place your extreme shape on a file on a table, grip it tightly and hold the file you are using at a parallel angle,” she shares. Explore Andreea’s extreme nail courses at www.andreeanails.co.uk

Andreea Simona Ignat showcases the process of carving out an extreme nail shape.

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Product picks

When creating extreme nail shapes, there are a multitude of products to choose from, from L&P acrylic to hard gel. “Choose a system that is strong but can be applied thinly,” advises Hazel Dixon, multi award-winning nail artist & educator. “A flexible, soft product will Hazel Dixon bend when filed, making it difficult to keep the nail shape and structure.” Find out about Hazel’s extreme nail classes at www.hazeldixonnailartistacademy.com Andreea Simona Ignat notes that self-levelling gels must be avoided, as they can run, create bulk where you don’t want it and therefore take significant time to file. “If working with L&P acrylic, your extreme shape will need pinching to create a c-curve,” adds Michelle Brookes, Artistic Nail Design educator. “You need to understand curing Michelle Brookes times and ensure you don’t pinch too early. I find the best time to pinch is once the shine has started to dull slightly.”

Client comfort “When planning the creation of an extreme nail shape, choose a model that has long, healthy nail beds, as these are much easier to apply a long form to and build on than small, bitten nails,” recommends Hazel Dixon. “Extreme nails are usually between six to 12 inches long, so will be uncomfortable for a model with short nail beds. You also don’t need to have the model sit for the many hours extreme shapes take to create. Size up their nails and make the structures in your own time, ready for application when needed.” When creating extreme nails for later application and using L&P acrylic, Nicola Sawyer reminds that the formula shrinks during the polymerisation process. Therefore, ensure you have extra product when adhering the nails, in case you need to fill gaps around the cuticle area. Michelle Brookes adds that you can prioritise an extreme shape wearer’s comfort in the filing process. “The pressure of filing such long shapes can be uncomfortable for them, and it’s important to support the nails as much as possible. Using a E-file can ease this pressure,” she says.

Course context

“Many techs are not fully informed about extreme nail courses, so it’s important to note that each step learned in one of these classes can be used by a student in their daily nail work,” notes Krista Paulitti. “Extreme nail shape courses are not much different to standard nail courses; the only change is that you build a nail into a longer version with a little more challenge.” Krista teaches a variety of extreme nail courses to share her self-developed building processes. Her offerings include a Nail Creations Poster course, designed for those who wish to enter extreme nail competition categories, where students learn to build 43cm nails. Visit www.kristapaulitti.com for more information on Krista’s courses.

“Don’t be afraid to try extreme nail styling; you just need a little patience, inspiration and a coach to support you. The most important thing is that you love creating the nails and using them to express yourself.” Ilona Vas

NAILSTYLE&FORM

Detailed decorating

“Decoration is one of the most important parts of the extreme nail process, and it is key that you maintain the structure and shape of the nails while carrying this out,” says Hazel Dixon. “Gel polishes are too thin to decorate extreme nails, as many coats will be needed to achieve the colour you desire, so I strongly advise using an airbrush. This doesn’t change the shape of or add any bulk to the nails, and it opens up all kinds of artistic possibilities.” Ilona Vas adds that it is vital to carefully consider the colours in your extreme nail decoration. “Don’t forget about using the colour wheel: choose one main colour and only use the shades next to it in the wheel. Or if you are using opposite colours, use the shade between them,” she says. “When nail hues don’t match each other, it doesn’t matter how powerful the structure, the nail appearance isn’t strong or harmonious.” If you’re feeling uninspired with your selection of products for decoration, Ilona suggests experimenting with what you have to create something new. “If you require a colour glitter gel but only have clear gel, it’s not a problem. Mix a small amount of pigment and glitter into the gel. Just remember not to overdo it with the amount of pigment, as this can affect curing.” She also advises investing in jewellery wire, with sizes 0.4 and 0.6 being her favourite, as this can help to make an extreme shape more creative and 3D.

Star

structure

Monika Kupień

Stunning stiletto Michelle Brookes shares how she decorated this stiletto style... “I sculpted the nail using Artistic Nail Design Rock Hard Liquid & Powder in Pink Concealer and Bright White, before refining the shape with a file. I applied Artistic Chrome Gloss over the French tip and cured for 30 seconds. Artistic Chrome Pen in Pink Opal was then rubbed over the top. I applied Artistic Colour Bloom to the French tip and blended it with dots of Colour Gloss to create a marble effect. I used Artistic shades, Just Kickin’ It and Speak Loud, alongside gold glitter, Glamorous. I finished the design with crystals and applied Chrome Gloss as a top coat, curing for 60 seconds.”

´ World’s Star Nail Artist (WSNA) finalist, Monika Kupien, shares two of the extreme nails she created for the competition’s first challenge, which she won. For this task, competitors had to create a nail inspired by each member of The Nail Coalition: Hazel Dixon, Kirsty Meakin, Lauren Wireman, Lavette Cephus and Valerie Ducharme.

“Extreme shapes stimulate the imagination and are a great way to improve technique, which can be transferred to salon work,” she comments. “Extreme styling teaches you a lot about nail products and filing technique. If you can create thin extreme nails, you can slim down your salon work. When filing extreme lengths, technique rather than force counts – which can help in the salon. The most important part of the extreme nail process, however, is form application. Cut forms at the hyponychium for a better fit, and at the lateral nail folds so you can get better pinch.”

Star e r structu

Gemma Dawson

WSNA finalist, Gemma Dawson, shares her favourite design from the competition: her submission for challenge three.

“I chose agility from the Beauty Plus acronym detailed in the brief, and water was the best way I could think to embody this,” she reveals. “I got creative with effects, to capture the different ways water moves. This design was my first attempt at sculpting extreme length nails and while it seemed intimidating at first, once I perfected my form placement, I quickly found my feet. I used acrygel to sculpt the nail, then utilised as many different types of gel as possible to create the water effects. To make the water appear curved, I sculpted around the protective tube from a nail brush. I gave the drops a liquid effect using cuticle oil.” Gemma’s Instagram (@gemma_dawson_nailartist) features video tutorials of the design.

Star structure

Katy Pottle

WSNA finalist, Katy Pottle, gives an insight into her favourite design from the competition, which saw her win challenge three. Entries had to relate to a word from the Beauty Plus acronym (Belonging, Equity, Agility, Unity, Trust) from charity, Beauty Changes Lives, and take inspiration from a client.

“The style was a tribute to the trust my client put in me to create her wedding nails,” she shares. “I wanted to capture the essence of a Hindu wedding, showcasing her beautiful outfits, jewellery and the different ceremonies. I used Magpie Beauty Perfect Poly Acrygel, along with layers of the brand’s glitters, flakes, chromes and gel paints to create depth and intricacy, and depicted the opals of her jewellery using CND ShellacTM. I hand-painted a henna pattern and introduced sugared acrylic powder to the uncured colour to give it a 3D effect. To finish the look, I added more crystals, gold beading and wire work.” Head to Katy’s Instagram (@katyp_nailartist) for a video tutorial of the design.

TOP TIP

“No matter what medium you work with, the first bead of product should join the free edge to the extreme form, holding the form in place.” SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 91

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TECHTALK Who – Emma Brock of The Naildresser What – OPI Nailboss & freehand nail artist Where – Haverhill, Suffolk Why – an award-winning tech who caught the competition bug

love for nails After uncovering her ty career, 10 years into her beau es her industry ar sh , K C O R B A M EM ventures r e h f o s il ta e d s e lg u story & div alm in the competition re

W O N K O GET T K C O R B EMMA

Tell us about your journey into the nail industry… I qualified as an NVQ Level 3 beauty therapist at West Suffolk College in 2002, and started my career in a spa. At the time, clients only seemed to have their nails done for special occasions, and gel polish didn’t exist. It was in 2013 that my love for nails truly blossomed. Everyone wanted nail art, and the possibilities were endless!

When did you begin your relationship with OPI? I started using OPI when I qualified, and fell in love with the brand’s nail lacquers due to the quirky shade names and great formula. I became an OPI Nailboss and entered the Wella TrendVision Awards in 2021, achieving second place in the OPI Nail Artist UK&I category. The role has given me opportunities including magazine articles, working backstage at a fashion show, and helping with the development of new products, which is so exciting and rewarding.

What does your typical work day involve? I usually have backto-back clients, and I’m very lucky that most of them let me have creative control over their nail style, so no two days are the same. While juggling a full diary, I also mentor two newly qualified The nail designs that saw Emma therapists and keep up with day-to-day Brock placed in the final six for the Wella TrendVision Awards. operations at The Naildresser salon. What are some of your favourite designs to create and products to use? I enjoy creating floral styles and perfectly imperfect designs, and my go-to systems are gel polish and acrygel. I find inspiration for nail looks everywhere, from nature to clothing and wallpaper. 94 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

What are your hobbies outside of nails? Long walks with my fur babies and watching British superbike racing.

Who inspires you in the industry? Theresa Foddering of The Naildresser. She supports me and pushes me out of my comfort zone, and without her, I wouldn’t be where I am today in my career. My husband John, although not in the industry, has been a huge part of my journey and without his love, support and faith in me, I wouldn’t have been able to achieve my goals. Which nail colour characterises your personality? Black. It’s a strong, independent colour with a little mystery.

TRENDVISION FOCUS Pictured is Emma at the Wella TrendVision Awards 2021, which took place in London. Before the awards presentation, she worked behind the scenes to prepare nails for the event’s fashion show and met host, Ferne Cotton. Emma comments: “I couldn’t quite believe it when my name was called as a runner up. It was such a rush and I had an amazing evening.”

What makes the nail industry special to you? Being a tech doesn’t just involve doing someone’s nails. You become a friend, therapist, and a part of peoples’ lives. As a nail pro, you are in a position to help and support others, through both happy and sad times. What are the highlights of your career so far? Placing in two nail competitions, becoming a part of the OPI Nailboss community and now, bfeaturing in Scratch magazine! You placed third in Nailympia Germany 2023 in the Invent A Nail Shape category, division 1. What did this mean to you? It was my first time entering a Nailympia

TECHTALK

competition and my goal was to get feedback to help with future entries, so I was delighted when I placed. I worked on my design between clients over a two-week timeframe, and was inspired by a YouTube video of someone creating an origami tube in a heart shape, which I thought would make an amazing nail. The way the heart runs through the entire nail has to be my favourite part. It’s like a tunnel of love.

“I find inspiration for nail looks everywhere, from nature to clothing and wallpaper.”

Has your competition success changed your work life? It’s helped a lot with my confidence and my clients love being able to say that their nail tech is award-winning. From my success, I’ve gained new clientele to the point that I now can’t accept new clients, which is a great position to be in. Competitions are a great way to push boundaries and improve your skills. The feedback from judges helps you to improve your salon work, too. What are your future goals? I’m focusing my efforts on winning a first place award and would love my work to be on the front cover of Scratch. I am considering teaching at some point in the future, but I love what I’m doing right now and am not ready to give that up yet. www.thenaildresser.co.uk /emmanaildresser @emmab_opinailboss SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 95

NA I L s g n i p Clip SCRATCHMEDIA

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Before you wave goodbye to summer, consider mastering a manicure that’s perfectly suited to a picnic in the park. Opt for a gingham finish to create an eye-catching look, inspired by some of our favourite designs on Instagram…

A LATINA LOOK

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dxpalibab

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nspice

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ookedo m.com/h Instagra

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m/bethsnailss

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papped wearing Magpie Beauty’s Astra Glitter over the brand’s milky white gel polish shade, Fresh as a Daisy, during a performance on her global Summer Carnival tour. The look was created by Magpie Beauty brand ambassador, Stephanie Hawthrill.

Instagram

CELEB Magpie Beauty Astra MANI Glitter £3.95 + VAT SPOT! Singer, Pink, was www.magpiebeauty.co.uk

.com/victor

ianicholna

ils

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atsarebu

Instagram.com/joelyoc

eannails

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Celebrity nail stylist, Tom Bachik, created a flamboyant manicure for actress, Jennifer Lopez, featuring piercings, gems and gold foils. The pro also hand-painted the word ‘Latina’ in a gothic font on the index finger to complete the look.

NOUGHTIES NOSTALGIA

Instagram .com/@ca rlotta. corte

❤

CHLOE RANDALL uncovers the hottest nail topics & tales across the ‘net, TV & social media & gets the scoop on celebrity beauty must-haves

While we are already reliving fashion styles from the 2000s thanks to the Barbie movie, the nail scene has been hit with noughties nostalgia. Use punchy shades alongside hibiscus nail art additions to add a Y2K twist to nails.

snails

Instagra

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/chuen

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SCRATCHMEDIA

Model & actress, Gal Gadot, was snapped on the pink carpet at the Barbie film premiere in Los Angeles. She wore the CND ShellacTM shade, Fedora, on nails, courtesy of manicurist, Sarah Chue. She comments: “I love a beautiful contrast, and the dark sheen of CND™’s Fedora against the light brown leather that Gal wore, gave a fashionable pop to the look!”

Instagram

Instag

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Indulge in blueberry milk nails; baby blue shades with a creamy twist. Consider applying a pale blue over a white or light hue to achieve the look, which boasts fans including Dua Lipa, Sabrina Carpenter and Sofia Richie.

TREND ALERT!

The ‘naked manicure’ is proving popular across social media, with its effortlessly clean and chic appearance. Opt for a clear or barelythere hue to perfect the sophisticated look, as shown by @carlotta.corte.

ualipa

BLUEBERRY MILK

Aura nails have been storming social media for some time, but get set for a spark in requests after actress, Vanessa Hudgens, showed off the striking look on social media. Created by her go-to tech, Zola Ganzorigt, the star opted for a dusky nude paired with a green shade, finished with gold detail.

es a howcas a Lipa, s u sy of D e r, rt e Sing ani, cou m k . il m y mphrey blueberr helle Hu ic M t, s li ty session s

lotta.corte

Actress, Nicola Coughlan, attended the London premiere of the Barbie film with a pink shimmering nail style featuring star details, courtesy of session nail stylist, Michelle Class.

CELEB MANI SPOT!

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Instagram

BARBIE GIRLS

Instagram

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helleclas

CND™ Shellac™ in Fedora £14.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

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NAILDESIGNS

The alternative French gets a cat-tastic twist courtesy A cute cat portrait stands out on the middle fingernail of Glasgow-based pro, @hard.as.gels, who paints of this mani by Edina Sikari (@skari.nail.academy), cat faces in various pastel shades at each tip. complemented by fuchsia and lilac tones.

Summer styling takes over in this fun design by Vanna Alleshouse of @nails_byvanna, featuring bikini-clad kitties on colourful base shades.

Fingernails in Delight in our roundup of purrfect nail designs, in honour of International Cat Day on 8 August 2023

Focus

Joanna Szymanska ´ (@paznokciewkolorzemarzen) shows her love for cats with a silhouette, paws and love heart on a matte pastel base.

Lucky cats feature prominently in this manicure by @katherine_neonnails_, who paints them on Aprés Gel-X almond-shaped enhancements.

Magpie Beauty products were used by @starbeautysalon12 to create this cool matte blue mani with a feline feature nail.

Sarah Kane aka @topknotnails from Portland, Oregon, hand paints colourful cats over a clear gel polish overlay for a kitty-loving client.

This paw-some nail design by Alana of @trickortreatnails, Southampton, features fun cat portraits atop a glittery base.

Is your client celebrating their birthday? Help them to party in style by painting funky feline nails, as shown by @spellbound.nailartistry, Sunderland.

To be in with the chance of seeing your nail snaps on this page, share them with us on social media using #showscratch or email editorial@scratchmagazine.co.uk 98 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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12276-GEL-London-TipBox-Label-cg-FNL

Die Line:

CAD#XXXXXXXX; Vendor - XXXXXXXXXX; Date: XX/XX/XX

Stock: Line Screen: Proofs Required:

Permanent Adhesive Film 150 Yes

Colors and Finishes:

2/0; PMS Cool Gray 10 C + PMS 2532 C + Overall Gloss UV

Date:

July 10, 2020 2:51 PM

Die Line Does Not Print

PMS 218 C

PMS Cool Gray 10 C

PRE-SHAPED WITH PRECISION, READY TO APPLY

File Name:

12276-GEL-London-TipBox-Label-cg-FNL

Die Line: Stock: Line Screen:

CAD#XXXXXXXX; Vendor - XXXXXXXXXX; Date: XX/XX/XX Permanent Adhesive Film 150

Proofs Required: Colors and Finishes: Date:

BREAK RESISTANT STRENGTH FROM

File Name: Die Line: Stock:

ARCH TO FREE 12276-GEL-London-TipBox-Label-cg-FNL EDGE WITH TECHNOLOGY CAD#XXXXXXXX;TIP Vendor - XXXXXXXXXX; Date: XX/XX/XX Permanent Adhesive Film

Line Screen:

150

PMS Cool Gray 10 C

PMS 7676 C

SHORT ROUND Item# 1168103 Made in Taiwan • Fabricado en Taiwán • Fabriqué à Taïwan © Nail Alliance - North America, Inc. • Brea, CA 92821 61-1168103-1 HM-12629-1

SNAG-FREE, THIN CUTICLE CONTACT AREA

FLEXI-FIT SOFT GEL FOR PERFECT SEAL

Item# 1168095 Made in Taiwan • Fabricado en Taiwán • Fabriqué à Taïwan © Nail Alliance - North America, Inc. • Brea, CA 92821 61-1168095-1 HM-12276-1

Yes FLEXI-FIT SOFT 2/0; PMS Cool Gray 10GEL C + FOR PMS 3546 C + Overall Gloss UV

MEDIUM COFFIN

550

FULL COVERAGE 1168098 CLEARItem# SOFT GEL TIPS Made in Taiwan • Fabricado en Taiwán • Fabriqué à Taïwan (50 OF -11North PERFECT SIZES) © Nail Alliance America, Inc.FIT • Brea, CA 92821 (50 DE 11 TAMAÑOS DEHM-12276-2 AJUSTE PERFECTO) 61-1168098-1 (50 DES 11 TAILLES DE COUPE PARFAITES)

THE FASTEST AND MOST PROFESSIONAL NAIL ENHANCEMENTS EVER MADE SNAG-FREE, THIN CUTICLE CONTACT AREA

LONG COFFIN

550

FULL COVERAGE 1168096 CLEARItem# SOFT GEL TIPS Made in Taiwan • Fabricado en Taiwán • Fabriqué à Taïwan (50 OF -11North PERFECT SIZES) © Nail Alliance America, Inc.FIT • Brea, CA 92821 (50 DE 11 TAMAÑOS DEHM-12276-3 AJUSTE PERFECTO) 61-1168096-1 (50 DES 11 TAILLES DE COUPE PARFAITES)

PERFECT SEAL

July 10, 2020 2:52 PM

Die Line Does Not Print

PMS 3546 C

PMS Cool Gray 10 C

SNAG-FREE, THIN CUTICLE CONTACT AREA

550

FULL COVERAGE CLEAR SOFT GEL TIPS (50 OF 11 PERFECT FIT SIZES)

(50 DE 11 TAMAÑOS DE AJUSTE PERFECTO) (50 DES 11 TAILLES DE COUPE PARFAITES)

PRE-SHAPED WITH PRECISION, READY TO APPLY

BREAK RESISTANT STRENGTH FROM ARCH TO FREE EDGE WITH TIP TECHNOLOGY

MEDIUM ROUND

Permanent Adhesive Film 150

Proofs Required: Colors and Finishes:

PMS 7685 C

PMS Cool Gray 10 C

PRE-SHAPED WITH PRECISION, READY TO APPLY

THE FASTEST AND MOST PROFESSIONAL NAIL ENHANCEMENTS EVER MADE

ARCH TO FREE 12276-GEL-London-TipBox-Label-cg-FNL EDGE WITH TECHNOLOGY CAD#XXXXXXXX;TIP Vendor - XXXXXXXXXX; Date: XX/XX/XX

Stock: Line Screen:

NAIL ENHANCEMENTS EVER MADE

Die Line Does Not Print

BREAK RESISTANT STRENGTH FROM

File Name: Die Line:

Proofs Required: Yes FLEXI-FIT Yes SOFT Colors and Finishes: 2/0; PMS Cool Gray 10GEL C + FOR PMS 7685 C + Overall Gloss UV Date: PERFECT SEAL 2/0; PMS Cool Gray 10 C + PMS 7676 C + Overall Gloss UV Date: July 10, 2020 2:52MOST PM THE FASTEST AND PROFESSIONAL

July 10, 2020 2:51MOST PM THE FASTEST AND PROFESSIONAL NAIL ENHANCEMENTS EVER MADE

Die Line Does Not Print

PMS 2532 C

FLEXI-FIT SOFT GEL FOR PERFECT SEAL

THE FASTEST AND MOST PROFESSIONAL NAIL ENHANCEMENTS EVER MADE SNAG-FREE, THIN CUTICLE CONTACT AREA

LONG STILETTO

550

FULL COVERAGE 1168097 CLEARItem# SOFT GEL TIPS

Made in Taiwan • Fabricado en Taiwán • Fabriqué à Taïwan (50 OF -11North PERFECT SIZES) © Nail Alliance America, Inc.FIT • Brea, CA 92821 (50 DE 11 TAMAÑOS DEHM-12276-4 AJUSTE PERFECTO) 61-1168097-1

(50 DES 11 TAILLES DE COUPE PARFAITES)

SNAG-FREE, THIN CUTICLE CONTACT AREA

550

FULL COVERAGE CLEAR SOFT GEL TIPS (50 OF 11 PERFECT FIT SIZES)

(50 DE 11 TAMAÑOS DE AJUSTE PERFECTO) (50 DES 11 TAILLES DE COUPE PARFAITES)