afternoon
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spring2021collection
Discover a sense of tranquillity with the NEW Afternoon Picnic Spring palette. Available in Hard Gels for an easy one-coat application and NEW P+ Gel Polish for under 10-minute soak-off removal*, both providing 3+ weeks wear. All Light Elegance products are responsibly researched, developed and manufactured in Redmond, Oregon, USA. *When using P+ QDbase. Filing through the top coat is required.
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JimmyGel™ SHADES AVAILABLE 15 TH FEBRUARY EXCLUSIVELY AT SWEET SQUARED
Awarded the ‘Best New Product’ of 2020 for its versatility*, JimmyGel soak-off Building Base Gel is now available in four NEW shades, selected to complement a widerange of manicure services and skin tones. *Awarded “Best New Product” of 2020 in NailPro Magazine’s Readers’ Choice Awards.
• 100% HEMA-Free • Full natural nail integrity • Compatible under hard or soakoff gel • Formulated to file quickly with little effort • LED and UV curable
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I ’ M R E A L LY A N A C T R E S S FROM THE LIMITED EDITION HOLLYWOOD COLLECTION GELCOLOR • INFINITE SHINE • NAIL LACQUER
©2020 OPI PRODUCTS INC. • CALL 02039 015892 OR VISIT OPIUK.COM. MODEL IS WEARING I’M REALLY AN ACTRESS.
Seventeen years of... ®
Issue 214 Editor-in-chief Alex Fox alex.fox@scratchmagazine.co.uk Publisher Scott Derbyshire scott.derbyshire@scratchmagazine.co.uk Managing editor Helena Biggs helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk Deputy editor Kat Hill kat.hill@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writer Chloe Randall chloe.randall@scratchmagazine.co.uk Editorial assistant Callie Iley callie.iley@scratchmagazine.co.uk Art editor Jessica Wilkie jesswilkie17@yahoo.co.uk Group sales manager Ian Archbold ian.archbold@scratchmagazine.co.uk Accounts Lisa Ebbens lisa.ebbens@scratchmagazine.co.uk Editorial/Advertising office 1 The Courtyard, Market Square, Westerham, Kent TN16 1AZ
T: +44 (0) 1959 547 000 ISSN 2635-0327 Contributors Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, OPI, Caroline Rainsford, Ria-Jaine Lincoln, Tina Beaumont-Goddard, Chan Vermont, Maddie Regan, Dave Heffernan, The FNP, Liza Smith Subscriptions Curwood CMS Ltd T: 01580 883844 Printer Warners Midlands PLC Printers Mailing House Mailing & Fulfilment MK Ltd
ring, it’s r industry is suffe y and when ou int rta success ce a un th of wi ll ty In a time fu se some positivi ca ow sh to le al nail be ab ber of the glob my pleasure to pirational m em ins an brates ing le ce om I lc il brand OP story and by we itor. This year , na ed t d es an gu th ow h’s gr tc sector as Scra on its he rit age, ial d we look back ec an sp ry is sa th er in niv t ke its 40th an sional nail mar ed for the profes co-founder and s d’ all it has produc an br e th n, supported by magazine editio ann. Suzi Weiss-Fischm ry, na creative visio
Helena Biggs r Managing edito
000 +44(0)1959 547 o.uk ratchmagazine.c helena.biggs@sc
Our guest editor comm ents...
Who could have predic ted the world as it is tod ay? If I’ve learned one lesson again and again during my life, it’s that challenges are inevitable; however, it’s not the difficult thin gs that define you, bu rather how you hand t le them. The pandemic has tes ted us all, but I strong ly believe that there are opportunities to be fou nd even in the most difficult times. Setbacks happen, and from the m, you have the chan new. We’ve learned tha ce to learn something t we can persevere eve n in the most challeng passionate and encour ing times. Staying aging can sometimes feel impossible, but our our future. We’ve nurture outlook can help shape d and developed our resiliency and flexibility power within ourselves and we’re finding the to get up the next day, the next month, the nex t year, and move forw ard. We’ve also learned tha t the salon is an integra l part of so many peop going there is about les’ lives, and that so much more than ge tting a manicure. It’s peaceful oasis in the a retreat, an escape, midst of a stressful life a – and many of us co now more than ever. uld use that little getaw The personal attention ay we receive at a salon an intimate experienc is also so important. It’s e, and people have mis sed that. Unlike many businesses, like retail other service-oriented and restaurants, you can’t just click and ord People are excited to er a flawless manicure get back to the salon ! because nothing beats a professional’s care. Nails have also become a lot more prominent this past year. We’ve be nearly 12 months, and en wearing masks for we will keep wearing the m for a long time to co affected our ability to me, but this hasn’t show off our nails. I’ve always said, ‘nails can your outlook.’ Social me change your look, and dia has continued to open doors for creativ so many nail profession e expression, and I’ve als I admire sharing the seen ir passion with others and through art and colou motivating consumers r. People are wearing more happy, warm, po shows our predilection sitive colours. I believe for hopefulness, even this in difficult times. After nails hundreds of times all, we look down at our a day; it’s no surprise tha t nail colour can affect our emotions. Nail technicians around the world elevate produc ts through the power of between the professio touch. The relationship nals and the consume s rs are the backbone relationship goes a lon of the industry. A good g way in garnering mu tual respect between consumers, and this res a bra nd and its pect generates more than just a fleeting inte The connections ma rest – it builds loyalty. de are real, meaning ful, authentic and las that each and every ting. I have confiden one of you who has ce put so much time an work into your caree d dedication and ha r will see your efforts rd pay off in the month s and years to come . Best wishes for a beau tiful year,
Suzi Weiss-Fischmann
Images courtesy of OPI Nail shades shown are from OPI’s Hollywood collection, launched to mark the brand’s 40th anniversary. All 12 shades are available in Infinite Shine, Nail Lacquer and GelColor formulas. www.trade.opiuk.com
www.scratchmagazine.co.uk www.olympiabeauty.co.uk www.nailympia.com The publisher of Scratch magazine has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the information detailed in Scratch is correct at the time of going to print, and while every care is taken to avoid inaccuracies, the publisher does not accept responsibility for any errors or omissions from any information within this or previous editions. © 2021 SEED PUBLISHING LTD
OPI co-founder & bra nd ambassador @1stladyofcolors
COVER CREDITS This month’s front cover image is taken from OPI’s Hollywood nail colour collection. www.trade.opiuk.com /OPINAILSUK @OPINAILSUK @opi_professionals
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Contents FEBRUARY 2021
FEATURES 24 Meet The Guest Editor
Get to know the stylish & savvy Suzi Weiss-Fischmann; co-founder & brand ambassador for OPI
34 The Year Of The Ox
Learn more about Chinese New Year & commemorate the occasion with a selection of bold nail designs
44 40 Years Of Colour
Scratch celebrates OPI’s 40th anniversary with a look back at its heritage, highlights & growth in the nail sector
52 Nail My Ride
Discover more about a nail tech who’s carved out a niche marrying nail designs with automobiles
56 Classroom To Computer
With the pandemic forcing more of a move to online learning, explore the pros, cons & points to note before logging on
64
24
72 11 Must-Have Apps &
Online Business Tools
Jazz up your nail pics & organise your work life with handy apps & tools to benefit your business
76 The Perfect Fit
Polish up your work attire & explore the importance of branding with our pick of apparel & accessories
94 Creativity With A Cause
A Danish tech shares the story behind a powerful art installation crafted using nail tips for a museum exhibit
REGULARS
34
12 20 28 30 40 50 54 62 64 68 70 82 84 86 90 96 98
Nail Nation The Hot List The Force Of The Feds Nailscopes The Cosmetic Climate Beauty In Numbers Getting Down To Business Grow & Glow With Maddie Readers Gallery The Clawgasmic Effect Through The Keyhole Brand Watch The Business Of Beauty Scratch Pads Mindful Matters Nail Clippings Fingernails in Focus
Supplying UK Professionals since 1992
We create the chemistry, you make it
Beautiful!
Learn more about NSI at nsinails.co.uk or freephone
0800 881 8469
Nails by Bethany Denby using NSI Perfectly Pretty Powders
Share your creations #nsinails #nsiuk
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Head office: NSI (UK) Ltd Unit 4 James Nasmyth Way Eccles Manchester M30 0SF e: salesinfo@nsinails.co.uk t: 01617882860 f: 01617882861
Nail NATION
business
news & views By Team Scratch
GOVERNMENT RECOGNISES HAIR & BEAUTY INDUSTRIES WITH DEDICATED ‘PERSONAL CARE’ TEAM Following a relentless campaign by the British Beauty Council, UK Spa Association, BABTAC and the NHBF, the UK government has created a sector specific team to support the hair and beauty industries. These organisations have worked closely with the Department for Business, Energy & Industrial Strategy (BEIS) to overcome the challenges of the past year and have highlighted the size and scope of the personal care sector as a major UK force. The introduction of the ‘personal care’ team marks a milestone for UK hair, beauty and wellness, with positive implications including heightened awareness and understanding of the innovative and economically valuable sector. Millie Kendall MBE, British Beauty Council CEO comments: “This government recognition cements one of the key goals of the British Beauty Council – which from its inception set out to have the beauty industry recognised at government level; creating the first working definition of the beauty industry and also Millie Kendall MBE commissioning an exhaustive report aimed at valuing the contribution of the beauty industry to the UK economy. “Fast-forward two years and we have achieved this major milestone as an industry and look forward to shining the light on the beauty industry to further showcase and improve this amazing sector in which we all work.” Lesley Blair, CEO & chair of BABTAC & CIBTAC adds: “We are delighted to have secured a designated sector team within government for personal care – a huge milestone and the direct result of the dedication, passion and cooperation of the four key industry organisations and BEIS over the challenges of Lesley Blair the past year. “As one of the largest contributors to the UK economy, our sector deserve to have a strong dedicated voice in government, something BABTAC has campaigned and worked towards for many years, and we look forward to the opportunities and credibility this will provide our industry going forward.”
Nailympia Online extends entry deadline Esteemed nail competition, Nailympia, has extended the deadline for entries to its online competition to midnight on 28 February. The move comes as a response to staggered lockdowns across the globe, and the extension aims to help competitors who may not be able access their salons, products and/or models as required. Winners will be announced on 15 March. www.nailympia.com 12 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
Marian Newman
Vitaly Solomonoff
Doug Schoon
Marian Newman BEM unveils online learning initiative After nearly two years of planning, an idea voiced by Kevin Nicholls from Roo Beauty to Marian Newman BEM has resulted in Nail Knowledge; fact-based online learning with a difference. Nail Knowledge provides the information and understanding essential for the nail professional via three masterclasses; The Nail Unit (edited by dermatologist, Vitaly Solomonoff), Product Chemistry (edited by nail expert & scientist, Doug Schoon) and Health & Safety, each offering five to six separate lessons. Marian comments: “Nail Knowledge hits every learning style with beautiful graphics and animations. The written word and the spoken word come together with ‘knowledge points’ in each lesson and ‘knowledge checks’ after each lesson. It culminates in the final exam which, when passed, results in the Nail Knowledge Essential Nail Professional diploma.” www.nailknowledge.org
Session stylist launches PersoNAILity tools for nailcare London-based celebrity beauty therapist & nailist, Jenni Draper, has launched PersoNAILity; a range of stainless steel nailcare tools. This manicure range includes three cuticle tools, two nippers, clippers and scissors available in silver and gold. It follows the launch of five tools in the brow range, PersonEYElity, which includes three tweezers, brow scissors and ‘scutters’ – scissors/cutters for brow hair. Jenni has named the tools after good personality traits, ‘to reflect the beauty industry and the magical people in it.’ The tools are available via www.personaility.co.uk /personailityuk @personalityuk
Builder GELS
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business
Nail NATION BOOST FOR SMALL BUSINESSES AS SUPREME COURT ORDERS £1.2BN INSURANCE PAYOUTS A number of small businesses in the UK are to benefit from a Supreme Court ruling urging insurers to pay up following disputed business interruption claims. In a payout said to be around £1.2bn, businesses that may benefit include beauty salons, pubs and cafés that were turned down for business interruption policy claims on losses caused by the first coronavirus lockdown. Large commercial insurers, including Hiscox and Arch, had told the Supreme Court in 2020 after the initial claims that many business interruption policies did not cover the ‘widespread’ disruption of the coronavirus. The ruling is seen as a ‘massive boost’ for UK businesses. Customers who have made such claims should be contacted by their insurer about what the judgement means for their business interruption claim. The FNP comments: “This is great news for many UK businesses that had business interruption cover on their policy at the time of the first lockdown, but were denied being able to claim. “Although this won’t benefit every business, let’s all breathe a sigh of relief for those that can now receive this lifeline.”
Nail tech turns her hand to online workshops in lockdown for those affected by cancer Shifnal-based nail expert, Alison Jackson, has lent her expertise to cancer support charity, Look Good Feel Better (LGFB), to provide online nailcare workshops to people affected by cancer. Alison is hosting the workshops on behalf of LGFB, which, pre-Covid, offered 35 confidence-boosting face-to-face workshops across the UK each week. These workshops provided skincare and make-up advice for women living with cancer and skincare and grooming for men, and the workshops were adapted to an online formats at the start of the pandemic. This online nailcare workshop was trialled with Alison from July 2020 and launched at the end of October, and the charity runs the popular workshops on a bi-weekly basis. Lisa Curtis, new services manager at Look Good Feel Better comments: “The workshops are a great way for people living with cancer to connect with one another at a time when they are likely feeling more isolated than ever. They can learn practical tips and have some fun. “Look Good Feel Better is calling for help to spread the word of this workshop, so we encourage people to talk about this wonderful new service being offered by members of the nail industry.” For more information, email info@lgfb.co.uk or visit www.lookgoodfeelbetter.co.uk
Protect & stay on brand with personalised salon sanitiser machines
Chancellor announces further grants for businesses affected by closures Chancellor, Rishi Sunak, has announced that one-off grants worth up to £9,000 will be available to beauty businesses as part of a new £4.6 billion package for the retail, hospitality and leisure sectors in England. The available funds for businesses will be on top of the existing grants and the extension of furlough to the end of April. The cash is provided on a per-property basis to support businesses through the latest restrictions. The package is expected to benefit over 600,000 business properties, worth £4 billion in total across all nations of the UK. For more information about business support, visit www.gov.uk/coronavirus
14 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
Embrace a marketing opportunity for your business with a personalised sanitising unit from Killis. Available in three sizes, the dispensers help keep you and your clients protected from bacteria and viruses such as coronavirus. The units available for personalisation are the Free Standing option and Wall Mounted option. Once artwork is confirmed, the personalised units can be ready within fi ve working days. Also available is a small white automatic dispenser and two sanitiser options for the units; an alcohol-free foam sanitiser and 70% alcohol sanitiser. Visit www.killis.co.uk to purchase and use code Scratch15 for 15% off the entire basket until 31 March 2021.
pleasure
Nail NATION Fave Scratch cover of 2020 revealed Readers voted for their favourite Scratch cover of 2020 in a poll on the Scratch magazine website, with the November issue cover taking the top spot. The image came courtesy of INK London, with nails by Simone Radley and make-up and styling by Maddy Robinson. Dickson Moses is to credit for the photo, which featured model, Yu Yaan. In second place was the May front cover by Felicity Burgess-Young using Nail Artists UK products with make-up, hair & modelling by Felicity and photography by Michael Elkins. Coming in third was the striking August front cover from Olena Özman, with photography by Elena Gerber nd and make-up and modelling rd by Veronika Kö nitzer.
1st
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Tot up your nail shades with mini Gellux additions Salon System has added six fashion-inspired gel polish shades to its Gellux Mini collection. The shades are Cherry Black, Raisins to be Cheerful, Electric Pink, Feelin Peachy, Porcelain Doll and Smoke ‘n’ Sparkle. Gellux Minis boast a ‘true colour’ filled swatch on the top of each bottle to make each shade easily recognisable on the shelf. The Mini collection is ideal for students, techs who are eager to try different shades without the investment and mobile nail technicians. Salon System Gellux products are available from wholesalers nationwide.
Keep dry hands at bay with Richness Hand Cream Indigo Nails Lab has added to its line of homecare products with Richness Hand Cream in a handbag-friendly 60ml tube. Available in four scents, the creams have a long-lasting, intense fragrance. Ideal for retailing, the moisturising formula features a light texture and is based on a combination of sweet almond oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, glycerine and vitamin E. www.indigo-nails.co.uk
Add length & strength with Cuccio builder gel shades Cuccio has welcomed six brush-on, soak off builder gel shades to its nail enhancement portfolio. The convenient brush-on formula eases the building and shaping process and the natural-looking shades are ideal for camouflaging re-growth. Use to overlay to add strength, build an apex and enhance with forms (sculpting) or via the tip & overlay technique. The six shades are priced at £11.99 + VAT and are available in Bare Nude, Bare Pink, Gleaming Rose, Naked Pink, Sassy Pink and Tan Glow. www.cuccio.co.uk
NAIL & BEAUTY BITES Madam Glam has revealed the Two of a Kind collection – boasting 10 soak-off crème gel polishes. Citing ‘love, music and pop culture’ as the inspiration, colours range from soft pinks to jewel tones. www.madamglam.com
For the full stories, visit www.scratchmagazine.co.uk 16 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
LART has expanded its Supreme range of colour powders with the Glitter Candy collection. Featuring seven glitters, the line-up includes tones of pink, red, gold and purple. Order via uk@lartnails.eu
Nail colour brand, Essie, has reformulated all its lines, including Gel Couture Longwear and Treat Love & Color, to ensure they are vegan-friendly.
The Gel Bottle Inc announced winners of its first awards
Glitterama launches gel polish range Nail brand, Glitterama Nails, has bolstered its professional product portfolio with a gel polish system. A wide range of gel polish shades – including the standout red Sealed With A Kiss – is now available and should be used with the Glitterama Gel Top Coat Clear or Tacky Top Coat for the ultimate glossy finish. Manufactured in the UK, the gel polish colours are HEMA-free, while the base coat is approximately 5% HEMA. Within the range are crèmes, glitters and shimmers, with shades to be added seasonally. www.glitterama-nails.com
EMOKI NAILS PLANNER HELPS TECHS PRACTISE NAIL ART DESIGNS Unleash your creativity or plan nail art designs with this handy A5 planner from Emoki Nails. The planner includes 182 double hand templates alongside tips and tricks for colour choosing, design ideas and how to take great photographs of your nail work. The planner features hard covers and coil binding to allow for completely flat opening and the pages are designed to help inspire nail art creations. Quotes from nail artists feature to aid motivation. The Emoki Nails Nail Art planner is £19.95 and available via www.emoki.co.uk
Abigail Ellwood - TGB Nail Art Specialist of the Year
The Gel Bottle Inc celebrated its nail professionals and salons by hosting a virtual awards ceremony. Finalists were chosen by the brand across six categories, before being judged by founder & CEO, Daisy Kalnina, and subject to a public vote. The winners are: • TGB Educator of the Year – Eva Krzos • TGB Brand Ambassador of the Year – Uma Bárbara • Nail Art Specialist Of The Year – Abigail Ellwood • IG Nail Account of the Year – Tiffany Abbigaile Beauty • Best Salon Design – Twelve The Green • TGB Salon of the Year – OMY Nails • TGB Nail Tech of the Year – Anna Hughes “After the year we’ve had, it felt only right to applaud the resilience and hard work that has come out of what has been a very difficult year for our industry,” states Daisy Kalnina. “We could not be more proud of our winners and are grateful to everyone who’s made this happen.” www.thegelbottle.com
Uma Bárbara - TGB Brand Ambassador of the Year
Anna Hughes - TGB Nail Tech of the Year
DID YOU KNOW? Beauty tech solutions provider, Perfect Corp, has collaborated with Snap Inc to create augmented reality beauty try-on experiences for the Snapchat app. This partnership will enable beauty brands to share Snapchat Lenses for app users to virtually try-on beauty looks and shop products – anywhere, anytime.
Afternoon picnics inspire Light Elegance’s spring collection Light Elegance has unveiled its Afternoon Picnic spring gel colour collection, comprising bright and bold hues with shimmers and glitters. With shade names including What’s in Your Basket and Cucumber Sandwich, the collection features a palette of blue, pink and lilac hues. It is available in Colour and Glitter Gel formulas, as well as the P+ Gel Polish system. “Our inspiration for this collection comes from flowing streams, singing birds and the vibrant colours that spring reveals,” says Lezlie McConnell, Light Elegance co-owner. “There’s so much feeling in colour and we wanted to express that emotion and highlight the freeing sensation of finally getting outdoors with friends and loved ones to enjoy an afternoon picnic.” Light Elegance products are available via www.sweetsquared.com SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 17
CALLING ALL BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS
A FREE EVENT
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VALENTINE’S VALENTINE’S DAY DAY 2021 2021 AABRAND BRANDNEW NEWEVENT EVENTFROM FROMTHE THE ORGANISERS ORGANISERSOF OFOLYMPIA OLYMPIABEAUTY BEAUTY
FFococuusisinngg onon..... . EDUCATION EDUCATION••TASTER TASTERPROGRAMS PROGRAMS••BEAUTY BEAUTYPRODUCTS PRODUCTS SAMPLING SAMPLING••MEMBERSHIPS MEMBERSHIPS&&SUBSCRIPTIONS SUBSCRIPTIONS
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WWW.OLYMPIABEAUTY.CO.UK WWW.OLYMPIABEAUTY.CO.UK #LOVEOLYMPIABEAUTY #LOVEOLYMPIABEAUTY @olympiabeautyuk @olympiabeautyuk @olympiabeauty @olympiabeauty
@olympiabeauty @olympiabeauty
ian.archbold@olympiabeauty.co.uk ian.archbold@olympiabeauty.co.uk
NEWPRODUCTS
Purple Professional Builder Gel in Glass Clear £POA www.purpleprofessional.pt Practise and perfect your enhancement skills with this crystal clear builder gel from Purple Professional. Also available in Milky Rose, Milky Pink and Milky White, the gel has a medium viscosity and is available in two sizes.
Salon System Gellux Ready To Rock Collection £11.95 + VAT each. Available from wholesalers nationwide. Add an edge to spring nails with the combination of brights and pastels in this eight-piece collection. The range features four neon effect gel polishes, including the bold lime green Dare To Wear, and each offers a high-shine finish.
List THE HOT
Scratch scours the industry for the latest nail & beauty products to captivate clients & lend a helping hand to your services Cuccio Naturalé Hand Sanitiser Mist from £3.99 + VAT www.cuccio.co.uk This handy hand sanitiser mist is available in two sizes; 56ml and 237ml (£7.99 + VAT). Infused with sunflower oil and eucalyptus, the mist balances sanitisation with hydration to quench the thirst of dry hands while meeting hygiene needs.
Zoya Naked Manicure Ultra Glossy Seal Top Coat £9.99 + VAT/RRP £20.99 www.supernail.co.uk This addition to Zoya’s lacquer range has a dry time that’s two times faster than the classic formula, and offers defence against chipping for up to seven days. What’s more it’s ultra shiny and includes a Z-wide brush for ease of application.
Light Elegance Tools & Implements from £8.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com Update your nail art kit with the four new stainless steel tools from Light Elegance; the LE Pro Tip Cutter and Stir & Scoop Precision Spatula (£8.95 + VAT each), Straight Scissors and Curved Blade Scissors (£12.95 + VAT each). Also available is a handy LE Salon Storage Box, available in small or large sizes.
20 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
NEWPRODUCTS Indigo Nails Lab 10th Anniversary Gel Polish Shades £7.60 inc VAT each www.indigo-nails.co.uk Commemorate Indigo Nails Lab’s 10th anniversary milestone with three stunning red gel polish hues. The sophisticated shades offer a creamy texture and easy application, and are aptly named ‘Happy Birthday’, ‘Surprise!’ and ‘Adorator’.
INK London Spellbound iLac collection £80 inc VAT www.inknails.com Dazzle clients with the eight stunning iLac gel polish shades in INK London’s Spellbound collection; featuring shimmery crèmes and glitters. Serving up something for everyone, captivate with the mixture of semi-opaque and fully opaque finishes.
Halo Gel Polish Hope Springs Eternal Collection £4.99 + VAT each www.purenails.co/stockists Creamy pastel hues and edgy shades make up this spring Halo Gel Polish collection. Each 8ml bottle serves up a highly pigmented formula with glossy finish and standout shades include Cool Grey, a nod to this year’s Pantone Colour of the Year, and punchy green Fresh Start.
Lecenté Floral Garden Foils £3.99 + VAT www.lecente.com / www.sweetsquared.com / www.ellisons.co.uk Six pretty floral patterns have joined the Lecenté range of nail foils; ideal for Valentine’s designs, springtime looks and more. Each is on a transparent background to be used over a punchy hue or to add a design element.
OPI Hollywood GelColor Collection £17.80 + VAT each www.trade.opiuk.com Featuring 12 red carpet-ready colours in three different formulas, the Hollywood Collection celebrates the 40th anniversary of OPI. All shades – from the hero shade; plum I’m Really An Actress, to the pastel pink Hollywood & Vibe – are available in Infinite Shine, Nail Lacquer and GelColor.
SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 21
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Meet the guest NAILTALK
Delve into the life & loves of SUZI WEISS-FISCHMANN, OPI co-founder & brand ambassador
My background I grew up in Hungary during the communist era. I was 10 years old when my family fled from Hungary to Israel, where I experienced my first taste of freedom. A few years later, we came to America, where opportunity unfolded for my family. In New York, my family owned its own manufacturing business. I too was attracted to the idea of being in business for myself, and of controlling my own destiny. I attended Hunter College and worked at a garment manufacturing company for my brother-in-law’s family. During that time, I learned so much about manufacturing and was able to see how a business is run from the ground up. When an opportunity presented itself to go into business with my brotherin-law in Los Angeles, I took it and never looked back. OPI began, not as a professional nailcare brand, but as a dental supply company during the acrylic movement of the 1980s. Realising that dentures and artificial nail extensions share a similar chemistry, we saw an opening in the market and seized it. OPI began dropping off the ‘rubber band special’ at every salon on Ventura Boulevard in Los Angeles. A jar of powder, liquid and primer – rubber-banded together – became the OPI Traditional Acrylic System and was a huge hit, giving OPI its start in the professional nail industry.
Best memories
Job talk I love the connections that I create in my role. My job has introduced me to so many different kinds of people, and the relationships I’ve built have been the most rewarding part of my work. I have relationships with nail techs, employees, distributors, editors, and of course consumers – I’ve been able to connect with millions of women through OPI and I feel so grateful. I always say, if I can inspire just one person, I’ve done good for the day. I also love creating new colours. Here I am, thousands of colours later, and it never gets old! 24 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
Launching the first 30 OPI shades was a pivotal moment in my life. We knew we had one shot at a great first impression, and we worked tirelessly to get the colours just right. We tested so many shades to find those first 30. Every night, I would line up the colours and look at them from every angle. It was a monumental task; how do you choose the 30 colours to represent your brand? Our dedication paid off, with shades so popular that many of them are still sold today, including Malaga Wine, Alpine Snow, Dutch Tulips, OPI Red, and Kyoto Pearl.
A day in my life… I think being disciplined is an important part of success. Those who know me will tell you that I love my day planner and I write everything down! It’s so important to keep a consistent routine, especially now. I’m appreciating having some structure to my days. Here’s a typical day in my life:
5:30am: Get up, get the newspaper (so old
fashioned!), drink two cups of coffee, read the paper. 7am: Go to physical therapy, which I typically do twice a week. 7 or 8am: Shower and get ready for my day. I use the morning to catch up on emails, speak at virtual events on Zoom, do media and podcast interviews, and work with the colourist and OPI’s global marketing director, Jill Bartoshevich to create new destination or seasonal nail collections. 1pm: Lunch with my husband. In the late afternoon, I get a visit from my grandson and then cook dinner; after dinner, I go on a walk with my husband to get our 10,000 steps in, then I read or watch a TV show. There are many stages of our lives, and this just happens to be the one I’m in now. Currently, I’m a brand ambassador, I work on colour creation for OPI and I’m an author and a speaker. A typical day today is very different from when I was building OPI and had young children. Normally, you’d also find me travelling for work and family vacations, but those things are on hold during the pandemic.
Style file
I’d describe my personal style as simple and classic with an edge. I collect Hermes scarves; they bring me a lot of joy.
r o t i ed
NAILTALK
Career highlights
My interest in fashion and design prompted me to take OPI into the world of colour, and it was colour that transformed OPI into an iconic brand, of which I am so proud. When I first started exploring the world of nail colour, I felt that something was deeply amiss. The nail category didn’t offer women anything personal or relevant to their lives, with basic colours and generic names.
We set out to position OPI as offering a ‘message in a bottle.’ OPI is more than just a sum of its parts. The name, logo, iconic bottle, incredible formulas and colourful contents have become a messenger of beauty and inspiration. With the launch of nail lacquer, we differentiated the brand through the colours created, the feelings evoked through the names, and the excitement we created with the collections and collaborations. We made colour personal. We connected with women. Today, we’d be known as a disruptor – because we revolutionised the nailcare category! Forty years later, OPI is still a beloved brand. It’s amazing.
My nails
I like to wear a squoval shape and always OPI GelColor. The colours I wear most often are Malaga Wine and Cajun Shrimp. I wear different colours throughout the year – I just love colour on my nails. Lexi at Notox Nails in Beverly Hills does my nails and I always have OPI Nail & Cuticle Oil To Go and Protective Hand Nail & Cuticle Cream in my bag.
Desert island companions If I could take five people from the nail industry to a desert island with me, I would choose Lexi, my nail tech; my PR team, Kate and Karissa; OPI’s global marketing director Jill Bartoshevich for her creative mind; and Jenny, my pedicure tech.
Balancing act My favourite things
TV show: The Crown Book: John le Carre spy books Holiday destination: Italy and Japan – as I love the food, scenery and flowers. Film: The Hunt for Red October, I love that movie! Flower: Lily of the Valley Colours: Black, navy and chocolate brown for my clothes because my nails are so colourful! Hobby: Reading Music: 70s Food: Pasta
To ensure a good work/life balance, I set priorities. Work and family have always come first. I let the rest go; at the height of my career, ‘the rest’ included things like time with friends, and ironically, even regular manicures; forget about a facial or spa day! I also wasn’t afraid to ask for help. You can’t do it alone. I had family who were able to help at home with my kids, and at work, I was able to build an incredible team that shared my vision for OPI.
Home habits
I’m a little OCD, and I’m always tidying, always cleaning. I like to listen to music, work, and enjoy being in my garden. Like so many others, I’ve been wearing sweatpants and UGG slippers for 10 months.
www.opiuk.com Follow Suzi: /1stladyofcolors @1stladyofcolors Follow OPI: /OPINailsUK @opinailsuk @opi_professionals
My hobbies
I enjoy reading, walking, and spending time with my family, especially my grandson.
Life values Winston Churchill said, “We make a living by what we get, but we make a life by what we give.” Tzedakah is a mainstay of my life [Note: a Hebrew word for philanthropy and charity]. The act of helping others less fortunate is something I value greatly. In business, it’s important to think out of the box and to make decisions. I consider making decisions my superpower and I believe we get one shot at life, and we should go at it with all we’ve got. At the end of the journey, you want to look back and feel great about taking risks that brought you a life of passion and fulfillment.
SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 25
SCRATCHCOLUMNIST
Chair – Marian Newman BEM
Deputy chair & director of information – Sue Davies
Director of education – Donna Clayton
Director of licence to teach – Jennie Nippard
Treasurer & financial director – Peter Borg
Membership secretary – Alexandra Cassells
THE FORCE
OF THE FEDS MARIAN NEWMAN, chair of The Federation of Nail Professionals, talks industry issues
THE NAIL INDUSTRY IN 2021. WHERE IS IT GOING?
T
he nail industry is unregulated. Indeed, the beauty industry, in general, is unregulated. It’s largely unlicensed too.
Many individuals, brands and industry bodies have called for regulation. However, the government will not provide regulation as it believes industry sectors need to be selfregulating first. Those sectors that do a good job at self-regulation get a lot more support from government than those that aren’t.
• Some brands are not taking responsibility for what they’re selling, if they even understand what they are selling. • ‘Professional’ products are available to anyone via the internet. • DIY learning is available on the internet. • The ‘accreditation process’ is allowing training courses that are not fit for purpose while giving the same stamp of approval to excellent courses, so how can those new to the industry distinguish between the two? • Entry to what should be a professional industry, has no clear path. • The basic knowledge and understanding is so often missed out and, if it isn’t, students are not tested. • Courses that require practical learning are not required to provide case studies bearing in mind that every individual client is different. • Maintenance for enhancements and UV gel polish is not often covered. Five hours of ‘learning’ results in a ‘fully qualified’ status. • A huge percentage of nail professionals are individual ‘businesses’, but no teaching on running a business is provided in many instances.
“It’s always been clear that some level of regulation is needed and never more so, My personal stance is; it’s always been clear than now after the that some level of regulation is needed and never more so than now after the challenges challenges the being faced. However, I also believe in ‘be careful what you wish for!’ Any form of industry faced regulation or licensing needs to represent the nail in 2020.” sector, be sustainable, accessible, supportable and sensible.
Where is the sector right now? Globally, it’s in disarray. The UK is a good example of this. • Allergies are on the increase. • Cheap imports have proven to be one of the main causes, in particular, where the SDS (or the outdated MSDS provided) do not provide truthful information. • Allergy testing for specific ingredients has a huge wait time. 28 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
If we continue this way, will we have a nail industry in 10 or even five years? The higher levels of those who govern the country are aware of the situation and so are the ‘enforcement agencies’. Several projects are underway to address this situation. The nail industry needs to be recognised as a professional career and with a higher skill level; not a sector of hobbyists and DIY’ers charging people money for sub-standard services. It’s been noted during many meetings of the task force dealing with this pandemic that the nail industry is under-represented. There are many great associations for hair and beauty, yet they put little or no focus on ‘us’. These many issues are going to be addressed this year. Issues such as regulation, licensing, minimum education requirements.
SCRATCHCOLUMNIST
There is an Act of Parliament currently under review that will address many of these issues. This is where The FNP comes in. It’s been incorporated (as a ‘not for profit’ organisation), that will have ‘front line’ access to these discussions. Without The FNP, discussions and decisions will happen regardless. Do we want to be left out? If we are, then we will get diluted into ‘beauty’ and have no say in what is right and appropriate for us.
“We can to help change history for How The FNP can’t survive without membership the professional nail subscriptions. These will not have any sponsorship from brands, as this industry and make it a major can change the ethos. Deep pocket true career with clear associations, being answerable to specific brands and losing the goals and mission of pathways, routes, The FNP are all reasons why the team has goals and provide decided on this stance. the blueprint for It’s the tech’s voice that’s needed! The FNP needs to hear from techs; its members. The essence and the future.” foundation of this industry includes educators (hence the creation of The FNP Licence To Teach initiative) as we can’t fight the ‘not fit for purpose’ training courses but can support, elevate and embrace the great teachers that make this industry what it should be.
As a sector, can we be happy with this? Surely, the answer is a resounding – NO! The FNP has been created by a small group of passionate people. All have donated their time (and in several cases, finances), to get this initiative up and running before even asking for membership subscriptions. Before launch, The FNP received support from Habia (standards setting body), the British Beauty Council (council that addresses all major issues of the wider sector) and BABTAC (successful sector association, aligned with CIBTAC). Some amazing collaborative projects were also conceptualised with each body. There’s also a new affiliation, soon to be announced, that will bring us into the essential ‘Act of Parliament’ discussions regarding regulations. It’s now ‘hair, nails and beauty’ when it has never been before. www.the-fnp.com
/TheFNPUK
Founding board members have given their all for the love of this industry. Soon, The FNP will invite equally passionate people to its Advisory Board to fill in the gaps of knowledge and skillset. At last we can change history for the professional nail industry and make it a true career with clear pathways, routes, goals and provide the blueprint for the future, so we have a future! Please support us. Keep an eye open for an article that explains where funds will be spent. Later this year we will need more volunteers to help elevate this industry and promote its safety and degree of care to the consumer. We have everything to gain and nothing to lose! @the_fnp_
@the_fnp_
SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 29
s e p o c s l i a N
SPIRIT&STYLE
s o f e a c h si g n c ti ris te c ra a h c Im m e rs e in th e re s c o lo u r lo xp e Y E IL IE LL A sC o f th e zo d ia c , a o ti v e s & m o re … d ra w s, c a re e r m KEY QUALITIES
This independent, caring and charismatic sign is represented by the water bearer and is commonly mistaken for a water sign. Aquarius is an air sign, which contributes to this zodiac’s qualities of intellect and curiosity. Those born under this sign are inquisitive and deep thinkers with natural motivation and a determination to achieve. This sign can be shy and quiet or energetic and outgoing, depending on the situation and company.
Aquarius
20 January –18 February
Canad a’s Kels ey Wald shows o, aka off ele @kelse ments across ysklaws, of the enhan Aquari ced na us sign ils.
The empathetic nature of an Aquarian means it responds to the characteristics of others and adjusts accordingly, meaning it boasts a very dynamic personality. Aquarians are kind, friendly, warm and caring and make friends wherever they go, aided by their easy-going, generous nature and wit. This sociable sign is eccentric, spontaneous and charismatic, while also maintaining sincerity and respect for others and their boundaries. People who fall under the sign of Aquarius are fair-minded and see the bigger picture in life.
PERSONAL & PROFESSIONAL RELATIONSHIPS
Aquarians love helping others and will jump at the chance to give some of their amazing advice. As a sociable sign, an Aquarian is great in a big group, whether that’s in the workplace or in their down time. Despite their sociable nature however, Aquarians are selective with their close friends and who they allow into their inner circle. They maintain connections with a number of people. This sign has a sense of duty to family with strong family connections, and will do anything for those it cares about.
WORK & HOME HABITS
Being spontaneous and dynamic characters, Aquarians value freedom and flexibility in their work and home life. They achieve success in work when they are given the opportunity to show off their talents, and an Aquarian is always willing to share!
Aquarians are hard-working intellectuals who possess an innovative way of thinking and require a creative outlet in their work. A traditional role can be stifling for Ruled by Uranus, blue is the best shade for an Aquarians, as they are independent Aquarian. Blue represents this sign’s energy and people who don’t like to follow the confidence, while also introducing a calming crowd. Aquarians take pride in using atmosphere. Turquoise is also a great art to express themselves. They choice, enhancing this sign’s immense have a love for knowledge and inspiration and creativity, alongside violet this, combined with their sociable and the blank canvas of white. and talkative nature, makes them Light Elegance Glitter Gel ideal nail educators. Aquarius nail The Gel Bottle Inc in in Lagoon £18.95 + VAT techs – have you ever considered Elektra £14.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com Salon System Gellux branching into nail education? www.thegelbottle.com in Mermaid £11.95 + VAT. Available from An Aquarian is never afraid to take wholesalers nationwide. creative risks in order to achieve something new.
nails by ress-on up a These p ign serve es d ils a .n me. @panda rian the ua q A d n la celestia
STYLE FILE
The personality of an Aquarian is reflected in its style. Trendy and artistic, it doesn’t shy away from vibrant colours and prints. Aquarians reach for bold accessories such as statement earrings, nails and bags, styling them effortlessly. Aquarian celebrities include Harry Styles, Megan Thee Stallion, Ed Sheeran, Jennifer Aniston, Chloe Grace Moretz, The Weeknd, Shakira and Taylor Lautner.
Purple Professional Gel Polish in Full Of Confidence £POA www.purpleprofessional.pt 30 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
m.com/je Instagra
elle m/cocamich
“The personali of an Aquarian is reflected in their s le. Trendy and artistic, it doesn’t shy away om vibrant colours and prints.”
es by arry Styl ails. ails for H @jennyn Smiley n ka a ngworth Jenny Lo
Rapper, Mega n Thee Stallion, shows off long blue nails by @cocamich elle.
Instagram.co
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SEASONALNAILINSPO
Commemorate Chinese New Year with a focus on its traditions and an artistic celebration on nails BY CHLOE RANDALL
The Year Of The Ox What is Chinese New Year?
In 2021, Chinese New Year falls on Friday 12 February, with celebrations continuing until 26 February. This time period marks the start of the Lunar New Year; the start of a new moon. Consequently, the date of Chinese New Year changes each year, but will always fall some time between 21 January and 20 February. In Chinese tradition, each year is named after one of 12 animals that feature in the Chinese zodiac: Rat, Ox, Tiger, Rabbit, Dragon, Snake, Horse, Goat, Monkey, Rooster, Dog and Pig. This means the animals will have a year dedicated to them once every 12 years, in a cycle. This year, it’s the turn of the ox.
Insight into the ox Men born in the Ox year are reliable and trustworthy. They put their entire heart into everything they do and feel great responsibility towards their family.
Women born in the Ox year are calm and gentle. They will never surrender to fate and rarely think of choosing an alternative. This can lead to a life of struggles but no matter what, they will walk down the road they choose until the end. Despite this stubbornness, they think and react quickly.
Traditions
Pretty almond shaped nails by NyahAnahi’s Kyriacou Hudson feature plenty of detail using Cuccio Veneer.
Christy Homolya of @littlenailhome uses Cuccio Veneer and Glitter Dust from www.cuccio.co.uk in this striking and detailed design.
34 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
“In Chinese tradition, each year is named after one of 12 animals that feature in the Chinese zodiac.”
• In China, schools and businesses can close for the first few days of the New Year so that time can be spent with family. People enjoy eating lots of delicious food, including noodle soup, which traditionally brings luck for the year ahead. • On New Year’s Day, those celebrating are not supposed to pick up a broom, in case the good luck for the New Year is swept out of the door. • To mark the occasion, there are usually parades and performances, with people dressed in traditional clothes. • Fireworks are also set off as it is thought that noise and lights will scare away any evil spirits for the coming months. • Adults may give red envelopes to children with money inside. • The festivities continue for two weeks, finishing with a special lantern festival, which signals the end of the New Year celebration period.
SEASONALNAILINSPO
Chinese New Year product picks
Red and gold combine with a handpainted ox in this design by @christinabirch_nailtechnician_ using Halo products from Pure Nails.
Celebrate the Chinese New Year with traditional shades of gold and red and plenty of artistry.
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INK London educator, Toni Larkin, created this elegant red and white design using INK London products, available via www.inknails.com
INK London iLac in i-74 £8.95 inc VAT www.inknails.com
The forecast for the year…
The metal ox is the second of the zodiac animals; presenting a year for emotional, spiritual and economical reconstruction. In other words, the destruction caused by the pandemic in 2020, various conflicts, misunderstandings, as well as the general economic crisis will be the starting point for a new vision. This vision will be the development and technological evolution of the world economy based on a new, more viable criteria. The colours of the year 2021 according to Feng Shui are metallic grey and aqua blue.
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OPI GelColor in Destined To Be A Legend £17.80 + VAT www.trade.opiuk.com
Scratch’s guest editor, Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, comments: “The salon business is a competitive one; there are many salons and many techs, so you need to do things to stand apart, attract people, and capture new clients. This might include decorating your salon for different holidays or offering themed promotions. Getting someone to come in and take an advantage of a special price is also an opportunity to convert that person into a long-term customer.”
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10 1 Halo Create Micro Crystals in Champagne £3.79 + VAT www.purenails.co/stockists 2 Light Elegance Glitter Gel in Sweet Tea £18.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com 3 Color Club Nail Lacquer in 3 Wishes £4.99 + VAT www.nailorder.com 4 Astonishing Nails Gelosophy in Romance £14.81 + VAT www.snaprofessional.co.uk 5 Gelish Soak Off Gel Polish in Stilettos In The Snow £16.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com 6 Glitterama Gel Polish in Sealed With A Kiss £9.99 + VAT www.glitterama-nails.com 7 NSI Polish Pro in Laura £10 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk 8 Purple Professional Gel Polish in Magic Powder £POA www.purpleprofessional.pt ‘ Nail Lacquer in Water Lilly 9 Peacci £6 + VAT/RRP £10 www.peacci.com 10 Magpie Metallic Glitter in Goldie £3.95 + VAT www.magpiebeauty.co.uk 11 Salon System Gellux in Gold Rush £11.95 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide. 12 Indigo Nails Lab Gel Polish in Surprise! £7.60 inc VAT www.indigo-nails.co.uk 13 Lecenté Red Chrome Powder £6.95 + VAT www.lecente.com / www.sweetsquared.com / www.ellisons.co.uk
SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 35
>>
SEASONALNAILINSPO
STEP-BY-STEP: Year of the Ox Lucky Bag Gel Art
Editor: Sun Hyan. Photo: Jaekyung Kim
As we mark the Chinese New Year & enter into the Year of the Ox, Scratch showcases a design by Jiseon Lee in celebration
36 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
SEASONALNAILINSPO ABOUT JISEON LEE Korean nail tech, Jiseon Lee, is an educator for Secret Nail System, manager for Creamgel and educator for JINA (Japan International Nail Association). She is an expert e-file educator, teaching the J Nail Elite Drill course at MBC Beauty Academy, and has competed in numerous competitions. Jiseon has worked as a nail competition judge on her home soil in Korea and across Asia, and has published a series of books including Gel Art Guide for Nail Artists, Nail Art Book, Nail Art Gallery Book and Polaris Nail Art Book.
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@cogetcat
Step 1 File & shape your chosen nail tips. Step 2 Apply base coat from your chosen gel polish system and cure. Step 3 Apply a white gel polish shade and cure. Repeat if desired. Step 4 Mix the white shade with a pale pink and, using a sponge, dab this shade randomly on the nail tip to create a subtle background and cure. Step 5 Paint a lucky bag shape using a red gel polish shade and thin brush, then cure. Step 6 Start to create the face of the ox on the bag using white gel polish and a nail art brush. Use yellow gel polish for the horns and cure. Step 7 Using a detailer brush and grey gel polish, create an oval shaped spot at
the top of the ox’s face. Use a pale pink shade for the nose. Step 8 Use a fine liner brush and black gel polish to add eye and nose details. Outline the entire image, then cure. Step 9 Add shading in the open area of the bag using a dark red gel polish, then cure. Step 10 Paint the drawstring of the lucky bag using a fine liner brush and yellow gel polish, then cure. Step 11 Paint a thin outline around the edge of the nail using red, green, blue and yellow shades, then cure. Step 12 Apply a coat of matte gel top coat and cure. Remove the inhibition layer if required.
This step-by-step comes courtesy of Nailholic magazine, www.nailholic.co.kr
SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 37
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INDUSTRYINSIDER
Cosmetic THE
Climate Take note as The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Association (CTPA) shares practical ways to reduce allergy impacts in the nail space BY CAROLINE RAINSFORD
Head of scientific & environmental services at The CTPA
ARTIFICIAL NAILS: HOW TO REDUCE THE RISK OF ALLERGY
W
e know that acrylate monomers, which are the starting materials in liquid & powder (L&P) and UV/LED gel nail systems, can sometimes cause allergic reactions if they touch the skin. An allergy is not only unpleasant and lifelong, but it can cause problems if you need to have certain medical or dental treatments in the future. So, it’s really important to know how to protect yourself and your client from developing an allergy.
Allergies arising from the misuse of acrylates can be reduced with education and correct usage.
Step 2 Apply to healthy nails only The L&P or UV/LED gel systems must only be applied to healthy nails. Damaged nails can increase the absorption of the ingredients and the risk of having a reaction. Don’t remove nail ridges or apply to nails if the nail is cracked, split or bruised. The product shouldn’t be applied if the area of the finger surrounding the nail is looking sore or inflamed or the skin is broken.
In this article, I look at practical steps you The right gloves Step 3 Wear appropriate gloves can take to help use Wear the right type of gloves when applying the product need to be worn artificial nail systems to nails. Treat used tissues or wipes as contaminated when applying the safely by avoiding and do not allow them to contact the skin. product, but also when contact of product with the skin. All The CTPA understands that industry best practice touching any tissues of this information recommends that nail professionals wear nitrile gloves or wipes, which have can be found in the of 0.8mm thickness, which should be changed after been used to remove every client. For those who already have an allergy, CTPA’s Guideline on uncured product. two pairs of gloves should be worn at the same time Artificially Enhanced Nails and Minimising the and changed every 15-minutes as the chemicals involved Risk of Allergy, which has been can penetrate through the gloves given sufficient time. Gloves that developed for salon professionals, have a long, tight fitting cuff are also recommended. clients, manufacturers and anyone else working with artificial nail Step 4 Do not reuse gloves enhancements. It contains advice Never reuse gloves. Washing them does not remove the for safe use of these products. The guideline can be found at the material and wearing them inside out a If you CTPA website, www.thefactsabout.co.uk under the Allergies page. second time will increase your risk of want to check allergy, because your skin will be in contact with the acrylates. Step 1 Avoid skin contact your glove-removing This is the most important point. Safe use should ensure that the technique, put a little L&P or UV/LED gel system does not contact any part of the skin Step 5 Remove paint onto the glove and only comes into contact with the nail itself. This requires very gloves carefully fingers and try to remove careful application. This is difficult to achieve when attempting to Removing gloves without the the gloves without apply these products at home, which is why it’s recommended contaminated part of the fingers that people should only have an acrylic or UV/LED gel system touching the skin requires a getting any paint applied by a fully trained and competent nail professional. technique that needs practise. on yourself . 40 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
INDUSTRYINSIDER Step 6 Use the correct lamp Always check whether the brand of gel or gel polish you’re using is compatible with an LED lamp and/or UV lamp, or both. Different brands of product may require the use of a specific type of lamp.
Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions on which lamp to use with the brand of system you’re using.
Manufacturers develop their products very carefully to maximise the amount of monomer that is turned into polymer in order to get the most efficient cure possible. This involves not only the composition of the product itself, but which lamp to use with it and for how long.
It’s not possible to tell just by looking at the nail whether it’s fully cured. Remember to always use the appropriate lamp for a sufficient length of time to properly cure the gel system. Again, always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Gel that is not fully cured leaves both the customer and the nail professional at greater risk of exposure and subsequent allergy. In addition, high quality bulbs from a reputable source should be used in a UV lamp and these should be kept clean. Dirty bulbs, or bulbs reaching the end of their life, may no longer provide the required intensity of UV light for complete curing.
Step 7 Use reputable products Cosmetic products on the UK market, which include L&P and UV gel nail products, must comply with the UK Cosmetic Regulation. This Regulation makes sure that only safe cosmetic products can be placed on the UK market. As part of your duty of care to your clients and staff, be suspicious of any products offered for sale from unusual places such as less well-known internet sites and always be wary of offers that seem ‘too good to be true’.
There are many different requirements that companies need to fulfil to prove that their cosmetic products are safe before they can be sold.
“From September 2021, you’ll see ‘for professional use only’ on the labels of artificial nail products containing HEMA and di-HEMA trimethylhexyl dicarbamate.”
Artificial Nail Ingredients HEMA and di-HEMA (soon to be professional use only) HEMA and di-HEMA trimethylhexyl dicarbamate are two different acrylate monomers, or starting materials, which can be used in artificial nail systems. When cured, the monomers such as HEMA or di-HEMA react with other ingredients in the product to form a film, which is the hard, durable surface of the gel or acrylic nail. As concerns were raised regarding allergy to acrylates used in artificial nail products, the European Commission asked its independent panel of scientific experts to investigate the safety of HEMA and di-HEMA, which are commonly used ingredients. The independent scientific panel known as, the Scientific Commission on Consumer Safety, has around 15 members, all leading experts in their scientific fields; for example, dermatologists, academics, public health experts and pharmacists. The panel reviewed the safety of HEMA and di-HEMA in 2018 and its 40-page report concluded that the ingredients are safe, and should be used in a way that avoids skin contact. The panel recognised that only fully trained and highly skilled nail professionals should be applying products containing these ingredients to the nail to make sure that skin contact is avoided. Therefore, the law is changing and these ingredients will soon only be available in products for professional use. More information about everything to do with cosmetic products, ingredients, safety and allergies can be found on the CTPA website, www.thefactsabout.co.uk. www.ctpa.org.uk / www.thefactsabout.co.uk
@thectpa
SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 41
I T ’ S LOV E AT F I R S T C OAT T H I S
Valenti nes Day This February, treat your nail tech bestie who’d love to try TGB to a FREE Gel Polish. Plus there’ll be a treat from us to you too! With 470+ shades to choose from, we promise you, it’ll be love at first coat. Discover more at thegelbottle.com/loveatfirstcoat*
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INDUSTRYACHIEVEMENT
40 YEARS OF
r u o l o c Immerse in the colourful history & heritage of the OPI brand as it celebrates its incredible 40-year anniversary serving up nailcare, colour & products for pros… HELENA BIGGS REPORTS
F
rom its iconic bottle shape to its quirky shade names, OPI is a brand that’s renowned across the globe; seen in films, on TV, in airport lounges and of course, on nail desks.
It may come as a surprise to some that OPI’s heritage lies in dentistry, with ‘OPI’ an abbreviation of ‘Odontorium Products Inc.’, a dental supply company in North Hollywood, California. Bought by businessman, George Schaeffer, in 1981, George noticed shortly after the sale that nail technicians made up a large pool of his customer base, as they were buying dental acrylic for nail extensions. Instead of discouraging these unexpected customers, he turned his attention to their needs with the help of sister-in-law, Suzi Weiss-Fischmann.
personal or relevant to their lives, with basic colours and generic, one-size-fits-all names like ‘Red No. 4’ and ‘Pink No. 2.’” In 1987, OPI presented its lacquers in a bottle with a distinctive shape – one that has since been celebrated as an ‘iconic’ product design by the National Trademark Exposition, alongside the Tiffany blue box and Coca-Cola bottle. In 1989, OPI captured its audience even further by introducing lacquers with memorable names, such as ‘Coney Island Cotton Candy’, ‘Alpine Snow’ and the classic ‘OPI Red’.
FACT FILE
A whopping 57 new nail shades were launched by OPI in 2020.
The duo hired a chemist to create a system specifically for nail techs and the first three OPI products; a jar of acrylic powder, liquid and primer, were unveiled, bundled together by a rubber band. Suzi and George took these bundles to every nail salon on Ventura Boulevard and asked techs to use them for three weeks, after which Suzi returned for feedback. To Suzi and George’s joy, the nail professionals loved the system and the OPI nail brand as we now know it began to make a splash from a tiny, two-room office in North Hollywood.
Colour is the answer Suzi’s love of colour, fashion and design led to the idea for OPI Nail Lacquer, which launched in the late 80’s with 30 shades. “When I first started exploring the world of nail colour, I felt that something was deeply amiss,” she comments. “The nail category didn’t offer women anything 44 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
“We set out to position OPI as offering a ‘message in a bottle’, Suzi continues. “With the launch of nail lacquer, we differentiated our brand through the colours we created, the feelings we evoked through the names and the excitement we created with the collections and collaborations. We made colour personal. We connected with women.”
The colour collections
OPI’s purpose has always been to ignite joy in the world through the power of colour and stands by its belief: Colour is the answer. Every colour collection tells a story. “It’s why each shade feels more like a character in a story than a colour in a bottle. Each collection, we create a journal of experiences, leaving a few empty pages for you to carry the story,” comments a spokesperson for the brand. Shades are planned up to two years in advance of launch, with trend books from Milan and Paris providing inspiration each season, and seasonal collections inspired by destinations. “These books present ideas, predicting what consumers will be looking for in the future in every industry that uses colour – from cosmetics and furniture to clothing and accessories,” the spokesperson continues. “In both beauty and fashion, colours, textures and patterns often align. Then, in cities around the world, OPI draws inspiration from people on the streets, food, music, fashion and more. Everything that’s relevant to our global culture can generate new ideas and serve as an inspiration.
INDUSTRYACHIEVEMENT
TIMELINE OF KEY EVENTS 1981 OPI is founded in North Hollywood, LA, when George Schaeffer buys a dental supply company called Odontorium Products Inc.
1982 George teams up with Suzi WeissFischmann, the ‘first lady of nails’. Together, their collaboration leads to the creation of OPI Nail Lacquer. “Over the years, we’ve brought shoes, fabric swatches, photographs, and all kinds of souvenirs back to the lab in Los Angeles. Ultimately, a destination collection should really capture the emotions felt while travelling to transport women around the world to a place and time, even if they’ve never been there before.” OPI’s name, logo, iconic bottle, formulas and colourful contents have become a messenger of beauty and inspiration, and the brand has evolved to now proudly offer its shades in Nail Lacquer, Infinite Shine, GelColor and Powder Perfection systems. Suzi comments: “I like to think that each bottle of OPI Nail Lacquer is infused with my deep intension to empower women to give them the gift of beauty, luxury and confidence.”
1984 OPI expands to the UK as the first international market, led by Lena White, who discovered the brand on an explorative trip to New York with her daughter, Lisa. 1987 Nail lacquer launches in an iconic bottle with a choice of 30 shades. It was the first nail lacquer bottle to present an original shape.
Global reach OPI grew at an exponential rate in its first two years, and this growth hasn’t slowed since. The brand’s headquarters is a stone’s throw from the Hollywood sign, with filling factory also located in LA. A supporting head office can be found in Geneva, with local offices all over the world.
1989 OPI starts introducing lacquers with idiosyncratic and memorable names like ‘Alpine Snow,’ ‘Malaga Wine’ and the now iconic ‘OPI Red;’ adored by the fashion world.
A regular at trade shows, OPI has built relationships with professionals across the globe, attributing the professional endorsement of OPI as the foundation of the brand’s success. The partnership between OPI and professionals is a two-way relationship and the brand is continually inspired by how its community of over 500,000 professionals brings its shades to life. “For 40 years, OPI has been listening to nail techs and sourcing energy and inspiration from LA, its birthplace and the home of blue sky, diverse culture, art and Hollywood glam,” comments Elodie Ferchaud, OPI UK director. “We’re continuously evolving to better help professionals serve clients, and our mission has always been to offer clients high quality, safe and easy to remove formulas. “We create our products with professionals in mind, constantly listening and learning. Our vibrant and iconic colours are matched across our four systems and complemented with care items in the ProSpa range. All ingredients are thoroughly assessed and proven safe before going to market and we offer transparency to pros and consumers, alongside exceptional education. “We also speak to end consumers about our products and launches to offer excitement and inspiration – after all, colour is the answer!”
1999 The shade ‘I’m Not Really A Waitress’ launches in the Hollywood collection and the Urban Dictionary refers to it as ‘the specific colour of red nail polish that is used in countless old movies and commercials for its sheer mass appeal.’
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INDUSTRYACHIEVEMENT
KEY PERSONNEL
Get to know key members of the OPI UK and global teams… Elodie Ferchaud, OPI UK & Ireland director Elodie has been in the beauty industry for almost 15 years, working across nail, hair and fragrance industries mostly for and with professionals. She is a big admirer of craftmanship and artistry and with OPI, Elodie assures: “I found my vocation: supporting nail techs to shine!” She is very proud to lead the diverse and passionate OPI UK team, which is dedicated to serving the pro industry with trends, colours, education and spa products. Lena White with daughters Julie Barham & Lisa Bennett
JOURNEY TO THE UK & IRELAND
OPI has been available in the UK and Irish market for almost 40 years. Lena White and her daughter, Lisa, spotted OPI on a trip to New York in 1983 and identified it as a brand they wanted to bring to the UK market for nail professionals. Starting from the garage at her Pinner home, together with her daughters Lisa and at times Julie, Lena gave training and distributed the OPI brand, later moving to larger premises in Croxley Green, Watford. Lena won the Scratch Stars Lifetime Achievement Award in 2015 as recognition of her efforts. The OPI UK market is the largest market outside of the US. Much of that is due to Lena, Lisa and the team’s determination to persuade George Schaeffer to distribute internationally and then help grow and develop the UK nail industry through offering product and a strong education programme. OPI moved into the new Wella Company on 1 December 2020 alongside the likes of GHD and Wella Professionals.
FACT FILE
The most popular OPI shades amongst UK nail professionals are Alpine Snow, Big Apple Red and Bubble Bath. “Colour can do amazing things. It helps us shout out loud and stand out from the crowd or feel that finally, we fit in. From pretty to poignant and profound, colour can make us feel a million different things. And it’s right there all around us, right at our fingertips.” 46 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
Belinda Price, OPI UK education & capability manager Belinda has been in the beauty industry for 28 years. She worked for OPI for five years in 2006 and returned in 2017 as field educator based in the north of England. A salon owner for almost 20 years, she has seen the nail and beauty industry from most angles including as a regular on the competition circuit. She has scooped the Scratch Stars Educator of the Year 2014 award amongst other accolades. The success she loves best is that of others, so her role as organiser and judge for the OPI TrendVision competition is one of the favourite aspects of her role, as is watching the development of her students and team. Heather Reynosa, OPI global director of education design Heather Reynosa brings 25 years of nail industry experience to the global OPI team. She has worked in salons, behind the chair and consulting, and half of her career has been focused on education for the nail professional. She has led teams in New York and London at Fashion Weeks, created looks for global marketing campaigns, and designed classes taught by educators worldwide. Heather is responsible for creating education strategy for all OPI markets, including training events, social media and online learning initiatives, and in-person classes. As a member of the global marketing team, she works closely with R&D and lends her expertise to new and existing innovations to ensure that products speak to a nail tech’s unique point of view. Sigourney Nunez, OPI Education – North America Sigourney Nuñez is OPI’s North America education manager and a licensed nail technician in Los Angeles. Her nail journey started in 2013 when she launched a DIY nail art blog and used Instagram as a way to share her easy-to-recreate designs. With a background as a former newspaper reporter, she combined her journalism skills with her passion for nails and worked as an editor and digital content manager for three nail publications. Today, she leads the OPI education strategy and builds original curriculum and educational content for the brand and its top customers. Sigourney also partners with OPI’s commercial teams to optimise new initiatives with best in class education plans and manages the OPI Top Artists and Design Teams. Jill Bartoshevich, OPI global marketing director, colour collections & strategic partnerships Jill’s expertise lies in marketing to nail professionals and women (Gen-Z to 35) via professional and retail channels. She has 22 years’ experience in 60-degree professional/retail and brand marketing campaigns and launches. A brand builder, Jill received the Live Beauty, Breathe Beauty Coty Award for her deep understanding of the beauty industry and trends and ability to translate them into incredible collection launches. Jill has learnt much of her craft from Suzi Weiss-Fischmann; to look at trends and translate them into new colours and collections. She is part of the infamous OPI naming committee that has come up with notorious shade names such as ‘Lincoln Park After Dark’ and ‘My Chihuahua Bites’.
INDUSTRYACHIEVEMENT
2001 OPI makes its first big screen debut with product
FACT FILE
OPI has donated over 4,500 hand and nailcare products to NHS heroes since the start of the Covid-19 pandemic. The brand is committed to empower and enhance the lives of communities, so other charitable efforts are focused on women’s health, education and antiviolence issues. “Colour is beauty, freedom, passion, self-expression and joy, all rolled into one.” Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, OPI co-founder & brand ambassador
EDUCATION
Belinda Price, OPI UK education & capability manager reveals OPI’s education ethos…
“Nail education wasn’t easily available in the early stages of the nail industry, and as a key player, the OPI team knew progressing education would be key to both growing the industry and the brand itself.
placement in the Legally Blonde film. It was first nailcare brand to collaborate with films.
2001 The Sheer Romance collection launches, and the delicate pink Bubble Bath shade becomes a firm favourite. 2003 The British Collection lands and includes shades Abbey Rose, Double Decker Red and London Bridge is Falling Brown. 2005 Lincoln Park After Dark, a shade from the Chicago collection, helps bring alternative nail colours such as black and grey into the mainstream.
2010 Coty acquires OPI globally and OPI UK in 2014.
“It has since helped nail techs to get the best from not just OPI products, but from their own career. The brand offered training for beginners many years before there was a formal nail qualification. Continued education and career development has always been important to the brand and this ethos continues today with OPI UK offering a wide selection of training courses for all abilities. In the last year particularly, the brand has developed its online education offerings. “Education in the UK is available at the Wella Studios or one of the brand’s freelance education centres. Additionally, nailists can choose to train online or join our many live sessions in the OPI Professional Community Group on Facebook. To OPI, education is key and continual learning is the key to success for the whole industry. “With the development of online education since early 2020 comes the exciting launch of the OPI Education App, which offers access to tutorials and step-by-steps. It’s great for salon managers and college lecturers as also allows you to set work for your team or student and track their progress. It’s the perfect addition to the OPI education portfolio in this special anniversary year.”
2011 GelColor launches in iconic OPI colours including Big Apple Red, Passion, Russian Navy, I’m Not Really a Waitress and You Don’t Know Jacques! 2012 The OPI bottle is featured at the National Trademark Exposition celebrating iconic product design alongside the Coca-Cola bottle, Disney’s mouse-ears hat, the Tiffany blue box, and the Burberry tartan. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 47
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INDUSTRYACHIEVEMENT
PERFECT PARTNERSHIPS
OPI first made its big screen debut in 2001 with product placement in the Legally Blonde film. From here, OPI went on to work with productions ranging from Alice in Wonderland to Fifty Shades of Grey. Collaboratin with movie studios provided a natural segue into working with celebrity brand ambassadors including Katy Perry, Kerry Washington, Serena Williams and many more, cementing a position in pop culture. Other partnerships have included Tiffany, Swarovski, Selena Gomez, Nicki Minaj, The Muppets and Shrek.
Serena Williams for OPI
FACT FILE
OPI products are available in 100 countries and the brand offers four nail colour systems; GelColor, Infinite Shine, Nail Lacquer and Powder Perfection.
“For branded collections, OPI has always looked for strategic partnerships that bring excitement to the nail industry – from celebrities to films to iconic companies,” comments a spokesperson for the brand. “These collaborations hold broad appeal for OPI consumers around the world and make unique connections between beloved brands and inspirational figures. “There are plenty more to come in 2021 and OPI promises to continue to keep things interesting with exciting new collaborations.” ton Kerry Washing
iss-Fischm with Suzi We
ann
HOORAY FOR #OPIHOLLYWOOD
In celebration of its 40th anniversary, OPI has returned to its birthplace with the Hollywood collection. Featuring 12 red carpetready colours in Nail Lacquer, Infinite Shine and GelColor formulas, the collection celebrates ‘then’ with a nod to vintage Hollywood glamour and ‘now’ with the trendsetting hues. “Over the past 40 years, we’ve taken women on a wonderful tour around the world with our destination collections. Now, to mark our anniversary, we’re headed home to the home state of OPI, with the first stop being Hollywood,” comments Suzi Weiss-Fischmann. “We have introduced a beautiful mix of neutrals paired with pops of colour. This collection really brings together diva extravagance and old school glamour.” The brand has reinterpreted classic styles and given them a new twist, epitomised with the launch of ‘I’m Really an Actress’, an updated version of the iconic bestseller, ‘I’m Not Really a Waitress’. “In Los Angeles, ‘I’m not really a waitress – I’m an actress (or singer/model/artist)’ is a well-known
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mantra,” Suzi continues. “The name exemplifies that we’re more than just our job. It speaks to anyone labouring for a dream, offering a reminder that our goals are worth pursuing. With the shimmery red I’m Really An Actress, we’re giving a nod to today’s self-empowered woman who is not just working for her dream, but living it.”
INDUSTRYACHIEVEMENT
THE POWER OF THE INFLUENCER
Emily Davis, head of influencer marketing & PR at OPI UK, shares how OPI has embraced this audience… “Working with key voices within the community has always been a part of what we do: whether nail professionals, beauty press, celebrity ambassadors or now, influencers. “As a brand, OPI embraces new opportunities to speak to and engage with its customers, and influencer marketing has become a key way to achieve this. As social media has continued to grow and is now a significant part of many of our lives, influencer marketing offers the opportunity to reach new audiences, as well as inspiring, and engaging with existing customers in a new way. We are selective, working with content creators who already love the brand, and with whom we can collaborate to create inspiring and exciting stories. “We work with influencers – both professional and end-user, and recently founded the #OPINailBoss community for nail professionals who love social media. It’s a great opportunity for us to connect with them and share our latest news and innovations, as well as creating a space for these professionals to connect with each other. “As social media and influencer marketing grows and evolves, our strategy will too. For the last few years, Instagram has been our focus, and now TikTok is on our radar. But one thing that will never change is our commitment to authentic, compelling storytelling.”
2014 Infinite Shine, a lacquer system with a gel-like shine launches. It promises 7-10 days’ wear. 2016 We The Female arrives; a collection inspired by iconic women; trailblazers who fought for a right to vote and the fearless leaders that spoke up for rights and ensured that everyone had a voice.
FACT FILE
Nail Envy Original is the best-selling OPI retail product in the UK, and GelColor Stay Classic Base Coat is the best-selling pro product.
THE FUTURE
OPI is committed to staying true to its core values, and a spokesperson comments:
2017 ProSpa, a skincare line for hands and feet, launches in professional and retail sizes. Products include Soothing Soak, Moisture Whip Massage Cream and Protective Hand Serum. 2020 The OPI Powder Perfection dipping powder enhancement system arrives in the UK, offering an odourfree alternative to acrylic nails.
Colour: “We will keep on inspiring you with new long-lasting, vibrant shades, simply because we love colour. That’s who we are.” Innovation: “We’ve accelerated innovation, despite the market challenges, and in 2021 launched the GelColor Stay Strong Base Coat and Powder Perfection Dipping Powder, long awaited in the UK. There is much more to come to help professionals enjoy the OPI quality across services.” Support for the pro community: “We know the recent times have been challenging for everyone, and more than ever, we need to stay close, support each other. We’ve successfully set up our OPI Professional Facebook group early 2020, without knowing what would come, and it’s proven to be a great support group. “We have offered hundreds of free tutorials, to leverage this time to learn and provided free business trainings on our trade.opiuk.com website with tips on how to set up your online shop, how to better drive retail (which is one of OPI’s strengths) or how to digitalise your salon to name a few. We’re now working on what’s next in terms on how to set your salon apart and how to attract clients back to your nail desk.”
2020 OPI moved into the new Wella Company, along with iconic brands like GHD, Wella Professionals, Sebastian Professional and Nioxin. www.trade.opiuk.com /OPINAILSUK @OPINAILSUK & @opi_professionals Join the OPI UK Professional Community UK Facebook group
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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST
BEAUTY IN
s r e b Num
Keep on top of need-to-know business news & heed accounting advice from beauty industry specialist, RIA-JAINE LINCOLN
YOUR TRAINING NEEDS & TAXES
W
as training one of your New Year’s resolutions? If so, do you understand the tax treatment of your training costs?
ABOUT RIA-JAINE Ria-Jaine is an accounts expert with personal taxation as her specialist area and the beauty industry her primary focus. A qualified nail tech, Ria worked in the beauty industry on a part-time basis but noticed that many people in the sector were missing vital business knowledge. Many did not know about the UK income tax system and obligations imposed by HMRC and so Ria now uses her specialist knowledge, experience and skills to offer support and guidance on setting up and maintaining a compliant business. After completing her AET teaching qualification, Ria created accredited tax and accounting workshops for the beauty industry to help individuals get the best from all areas of their business while managing their books and tax obligations.
Friendly disclaimer:
The information contained in this article is for guidance and information purposes only. It should not be relied upon as full and complete accounting, tax or legal advice. For specific advice relevant to your own situation please speak to Ria-Jaine MAAT or another professional directly.
www.riajaineaccounts.co.uk E: info@riajaineaccounts.co.uk /riajaineaccounts @ria_jaine_accountingforbeauty Join my Facebook group: Salon and beauty therapist UK tax group 50 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
During the busy tax season that has just passed, I was contacted frequently with questions about allowable expenditure. One piece of advice I give that is challenged the most is when I explain that a training expense is not always an allowable tax deduction. This is one of the biggest misconceptions in tax for sole traders in my experience to date. The key points for allowable expenditure are the ‘wholly and exclusively test’ and the ‘capital vs revenue test’. The former is an expense that is wholly and exclusively for the purpose of trade. Capital costs are when the business invests in items of enduring benefit; an asset to the business that is likely to last some time as opposed to being used up during the dayto-day trade. There are further rules of capital expense of items that are intangible assets (training is an intangible asset). • Training to learn a new skill and qualification will be disallowed as a tax deductible expense because this falls under the capital expense category. • Training to improve, maintain and enhance an existing skill and professional development will be treated as a revenue expense and would be allowable on that basis. • Where there is duality of purpose, so both a personal benefit from the course as well as a benefit to the business, this is treated as a private expense and is not allowable. Using the guidance above will help you to determine how to treat your training costs for tax purposes. Further guidance is also available by searching BIM35660 at gov.uk.
If the training qualifies as an allowable expense, then the tax relief is given by the cost of the training reducing the taxable profit, meaning that a lower amount of profits will be subject to income tax. For a basic rate taxpayer, a course costing £500 will save £100 on income tax and not £500, which sometimes causes confusion. When I am challenged on this piece of guidance, the reason I am given is ‘because a friend has always included all training’, or ‘the last accountant used to include all the training costs and didn’t question it’. I am unable to speak for how others manage their tax affairs (both taxpayers and fellow accountants) but the HMRC guidance and tax law is quite clear on this matter. All I can do is help to educate beauty business owners on the right way and provide guidance on the resources available to help them. The HMRC page mentioned will be helpful but a simple search on capital versus revenue expenses will also bring up lots of supporting information. Another misconception in tax is that if an accountant submits the tax return, any errors in the return will be the responsibility of the accountant, but this is not entirely true because it is the taxpayer that has primary responsibility to approve the tax return that is submitted and to do so to the best of their ability. With all the HMRC publications widely available online the expectation of ‘ability’ is quite high if HMRC was ever to inspect a tax return. When claiming tax relief for any expense, it is important to keep a copy of the receipts as part of your accounting records and these must be kept for at least five years after the 31 January submission deadline of the relevant tax year. If you are unsure of how to allocate your training costs or any other business costs, get in touch.
3. SEEK ADVICE FROM A PRO
TECHTALK
Nail my
ride
Cheryl Ann of Nail My Ride carved out a unique nail niche during 2020 when she began matching nail art designs with car graphics. ALEX FOX finds out more…
I
t was around 1998 when Worksop based tech, Cheryl Ann, enrolled on a Salon System course in fibreglass and silk nail extensions. She then launched into the industry as a mobile tech, which led to qualifications in beauty therapy, holistic therapies and make-up artistry. Later, a BSc Hons in Spa Management was attained as well as teaching and assessing qualifications, however, as Cheryl Ann herself puts it, “Even though I’m trained in different areas, I always seem to come back to nails!” Nail grooming certainly turned her head and with the advent of nail art’s slow emergence in the late 90’s, Cheryl Ann became glued to the idea of its endless possibilities. “Hands are always on show, so it’s nice to see gorgeous, groomed nails,” she asserts. “I love seeing art on nails, although back in the 90’s, clients weren’t that daring and tended to opt for one full colour or French. In those days, a few flicks in the corner was considered adventurous,” she chuckles. “The first book I bought that really inspired me was Nail Art, by K-Sa-Ra, which offered a series of step-by-steps.” Alongside the genesis of nail art, Cheryl Ann’s creativity was ignited and she began her experimentation with colour on the nails.
Nail style with speed Fast forward to the year 2020 and being part of a Facebook group of female car enthusiasts called Girlspeed UK, a new and exciting nail art direction was spawned. “During the first lockdown in March 2020, my kids and I were surfing through Netflix when we came across a show called Hyperdrive. This show is an assault course for car drifting,” explains Cheryl. “As I watched Brittany Williams’ Nissan 350z car do the rounds, I noticed it had awesome graphics all over it. It was then I thought; ‘Hey, I wonder if I could create that design on some nail tips?’ “I sat at my nail desk and created some. It was my kids that said I should put them on Instagram, which at that point I admit I barely used, as I’m not very technical. Anyway, I posted them, tagged Brittany and messaged her. We then started talking and Brittany asked me to do her nails, however, being in 52 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
the USA proved problematic, so I told her I’d design her a set as press-on nails, so she could apply them herself, and I sent them over to her. They survived a hurricane on their way over – but did land safely on US soil! The highlight for me was when Brittany received them and gave me a shout out on her Instastory. “I then wanted to match nails to other people’s cars, so I put a post on the Girlspeed UK Facebook group asking if anyone would like to post a picture of their car as I was looking for some nail inspiration. I got some replies and began creating the art. I was surprised to find people actually wanted to buy the nails that I’d done, but instead of wearing them, they wanted to display the set in their cars!”
“I try and incorporate all elements of the car from the outer body matter. Watching everything from to interior, engine bay Formula 1 to rallying and Nascar... and wheels; basically there was really no anything that’s escaping it! However, my favourite has to be different or drifting. I would love to stands out.” get my own drift track car
Pressed as to why that day the Netflix show on cars appealed, I learn it was by no mistake that Cheryl Ann trucked down this nail art inspo path. “I’ve been around car sports all my life as my family is into them, so I guess had no choice in the
one day. Right now, however, I’m currently in the process of looking to buy my dream car – a Nissan Skyline R33 GTST. I then plan on putting graphics over it and taking it to car shows. And of course, I will be making nails to match,” Cheryl Ann enthuses.
Cheryl Ann’s first commercial set of car-themed presson nails were for Dotty Moore and showcased a Day of the Dead look to complement her Ford Focus ST. “I loved doing these as there were so many elements to incorporate into them,” reflects Cheryl Ann. “ Right: Dotty displays her nails in the car.” @missdottymoore
TECHTALK
Cheryl Ann’s favourite set of nails was created for Ash Deevoy’s Warrior-themed Subaru Impreza. “I love the graphics on this. I owned a Subaru Impreza for eight years, so have a soft spot for them,” she shares.
Daily drives Describing an average day since the pandemic began, Cheryl Ann cites, “I usually research a chosen car for a few hours and collect a variety of photos, so I can see every angle of the car. I then jot down colour scheme palettes and potential art ideas. I try and incorporate all elements of the car from the outer body to interior, engine bay and wheels; basically anything that’s different or stands out. “Next, I start painting the nails. This can take up to a full day as it’s very time consuming to get right, especially if a design has to match up on multiple nails. I try to take regular breaks, but sometimes I’m so focused that time just flies by and I forget. I love what I do and get totally absorbed in it!” Inspired by nail art experts such as the UK’s Sam Biddle (Cheryl Ann is a lifetime member of Sam’s Inspired series) and Kirsty Meakin, for her Naio Nails tutorials, Cheryl Ann seeks techs near and far from which to learn and develop her techniques. “Barbara Újvári is amazing,” she confesses. “I also follow Sarah Elmez and Celina Rydén. Live videos by Gail Nicholls have me in fits of laughter while I learn. But, to be honest, there are so many talented nail techs out there I admire that I can’t even begin to list them all. “In general, I just love how nail techs support each other, I’ve had really good experiences since meeting so many wonderful techs online, all sharing the same passion and helping each other, especially since the start of the pandemic. The Nailchemy group in particular has supported me so much. I even had one of my car nails chosen for its weekly cover photo!”
Nailing her purpose As a person that admits to always thinking outside of the box, Cheryl Ann experiences a real and true satisfaction from doing something different and pulling it off. “I get excited when I see others think outside of the
box and create too; it’s great to see what can be produced and brought to life,” she adds.
Nails designed for @sophiehildon
On the subject of embracing change in the nail industry as we move through lockdown 3.0 with little knowledge of when the pandemic tide will change, Cheryl Ann feels that she’s found her nail purpose. “By going down a different avenue and creating nails for car enthusiasts that will never wear them, is not something I ever thought I’d be doing. And yet here I am designing nails for cars that both men and women want to display!” Having found her nail path and carved out a unique retail avenue during such uncertain times, Cheryl Ann professes: “There’s always something to be grateful for, whatever life may be showing up; it’s ok to be different; embrace it and surround yourself with Not quite a tool kit bag, Cheryl people who genuinely Ann uses an upcycled tool support you.” And chest, which sticks with her car theme, as the gel polish bottles when asked about fit snugly in the drawers. her future vision, she divulges that the idea of branching out from cars and doing nails inspired by motorbikes, lorries or any other vehicles is alluring. “I’d like to get out my airbrush now I’m getting really excited and into this style of nail art. I’d also like to get into doing some commercial work. I’ve been thinking about teaching and running some classes/ workshops too, since I’m qualified to teach; however, right now I’m happy just creating!”
A self-confessed nail addict, Cheryl Ann uses Crystal Nails nail art brushes, Nailchemy Artisan paints for detailed artwork and Naio Nails Urban Graffiti Gel polishes, some CJP products alongside other nail art brands.
/cherylannnailartist & /nailmyride @cherylannnailartist & @nailmyride
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Getting down to s s e n i s u b SCRATCHCOLUMNIST
Take note as the NATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FEDERATION serves up support & advice for beauty business owners
Monitoring mental health in the workplace
NHBF director, Tina Beaumont-Goddard
About the NHBF
The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) is the UK’s largest trade body for businesses working in the hair, beauty and barbering industries. The National Hair Federation launched its sister trade association for the beauty industry (NBF) in 2018, and the body relaunched as the NHBF in 2019. With Tina Beaumont-Goddard as director, the association provides specialist business support, advice and backup to hair and beauty salons. Honing over 75 years’ experience, the notfor-profit organisation aims to be a reliable source of information for you and your business.
www.nhbf.co.uk /nhbfsocial @nhbfsocial @nhbfsocial
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A
government study* has found that the number of adults with symptoms of depression has almost doubled to just over 19% throughout the pandemic, increasing from almost 10% in the months leading up to the outbreak. These figures underline the importance of doing all you can to look after your staff when you’re back at work. Even before before the pandemic, NHS figures** show that one in four adults will experience some form of mental illness during their life.
What does the law say? As a caring employer, you will want to do all you can to support your team, but it’s also important to know what the law says about this issue. You have a legal duty to protect your salon employees from stress at work. Note: this doesn’t apply to stress that isn’t related to work. As part of this, you should carry out a stress risk assessment. NHBF members have access to a 24/7 helpline. Find out more: nhbf.co.uk/legal-advice
Spotting the signs Always stay alert to any signs of stress or mental health issues among your staff. Symptoms can vary, but typical examples include: • Poor performance • Taking more sick leave • Tiredness • Irritability or mood changes • Becoming quiet and withdrawn • Being self-critical • Indecisiveness and/or poor judgement • Loss of their sense of humour Physical symptoms may include sleeping badly, weight loss or gain, headaches, nausea, and aches and pains.
What should you do? As a first step, arrange a confidential meeting with your employee to discuss any worries or concerns they have. Be ready to listen in a nonjudgmental way – especially as you may hear
some unwelcome comments about you or the way you manage your salon. Be aware that other employees may be experiencing similar feelings that you’ll need to address. Do not react negatively. Listen as carefully and objectively as you can. Also, remember that your employee is not obliged to share personal information with you, so don’t probe them. • Stress: Find out more about how to support a stressed employee at nhbf.co.uk/stressed-employee • Bullying: You will also need to keep a lookout for bullying in your salon. Discover what steps you can take to prevent bullying and how to deal with it effectively if it occurs at nhbf.co.uk/bullying • Bereavement: Tragically, many people have lost family members and friends during this very difficult time. It’s never easy to find the best way to support someone who’s grieving, but you can find more information and advice on our website. If your employee finds the subject difficult to talk about, make it clear that you are there for them if ever they want a confidential chat. Mention that they might find it helpful to see their GP and continue to monitor and support them in any way you can. You must also look after yourself. Many salon owners have been telling us at the NHBF that they are planning to create a healthier work/life balance once their business is up and running again and things start to get back to normal. Our blog explores some of the steps you can take to achieve this. * Source: www.ons.gov.uk ** Source: www.england.nhs.uk/mental-health
EDUCATIONNAVIGATION
Are you investing in online learning? CHLOE RANDALL explores how to spot a great course & the future of learning in the nail industry…
CLASSROOM TO As a result of the Covid-19 pandemic, many nail professionals have turned to online courses as a way to keep motivated and learn new skills in readiness for when business can resume. Will this method of learning cause a permanent shift in education for the industry? Or will a hybrid approach to learning be part of ‘the new normal’? Whether it’s to start from scratch or to top up your skills, online education is rife, for the time being. However, nail techs may be left unsure about what to look for, since the digital sphere is now saturated with workshops, webinars, starter courses and more. Read on to discover what to look for in an online course and what nail experts really think about virtual learning’s place in the future…
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r e t u p com Top tips for virtual educators:
• Familiarise yourself with Zoom (or a similar platform) and all its functionalities ahead of starting to teach virtually. • Keeping an eye on questions posted on a live chat while demonstrating can be difficult. The best solution is to have your phone suspended in a phone clip to film the hands and inviting your model or a member of your household to read out the questions, so you can answer during the demo in real time. • Always do a test run prior to teaching in order to check your student’s view. • The platform you use to deliver your online class should have the ability to zoom in. • Your holder, stand or tripod should allow for an aerial view.
“Choosing an educator with a formal teaching qualification and an abundance of experience in their field is absolutely paramount.”
EDUCATIONNAVIGATION
Online courses checklist
When looking for an online course to undertake, consider the following…
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LIVE CLASSES
“If it’s a beginner’s online course, it should be run from a ‘virtual classroom’ on a platform such as Zoom or Microsoft Teams or similar,” comments Jennie Nippard, director of Licence to Teach & co-founder of The Federation of Nail Professionals and deputy head of education for Glitterbels. The director at Herts Academy of Beauty also adds, “The educator should have a setup that enables the students to have a very clear and closeup view of all demonstrations. Pre-recorded video online learning is fine for nail art skills, but not for beginners because when you are learning for the first time, the educator should be on hand throughout the class to offer support and feedback on case studies and practise work.” “It’s really important to train in small groups,” adds Nicolette SafarManesh, Magpie Beauty educator. “The students should feel comfortable enough to ask questions at any time, while the educator watches them work and can help out and guide when needed.”
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ACCREDITATION
Workshops are handy for specific designs or to learn more about a specific product or technique, however if you’re seeking to gain certification and roll out a new skill to clients, a more in-depth course with accreditation is advised. “When you have found a course that meets your needs, I recommend checking with your insurance provider that it accepts this qualification,” comments Victoria Trafford, Sweet Squared education ambassador. “Avoid beginner courses that are not accredited or those where your insurance is valid with only one insurance provider, as this limits you moving forward.” “Before booking any online course, I recommend checking the credentials of both the education provider and educator,” comments Helena Gibbs, The Gel Bottle Inc Academy manager. “It’s important to make sure the educator has accredited certification and their training has been completed with a reputable brand or company that you trust. Also ensure the education provider is backed by an official qualifying body.”
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QUALITY
“Nail professionals should check the quality of the course and ask themselves if they’re going to benefit from it,” says Jazz Christodoulou, general manager at Georgie Smedley Group. “Read the reviews about it from other students, check the works of the educator to make a decision on whether you trust their expertise. Also make sure you’re able to receive feedback from the educator as there’s a chance you’ll still have questions after completing the course. “Video and sound quality are very important when choosing a good online course,” Jazz continues. “You have to be able to see everything closely and understand the educator as if you were present in the class. If there’s no example of the video, don’t be shy to ask questions about it before investing money into a nail course.” “When deliberating an online education course for technical skills, choosing an educator with a formal teaching qualification and an abundance of experience in their field is absolutely paramount,” comments Katie Barnes, award-winning nail technician, educator and judge. “Online courses should cover practical assessments, a certain amount of hours of hands-on training and deliver everything you need to know to start a career in the nail industry,” states Abi Garvey, brand ambassador at Pure Nails. “Look for an educator that is delivering theory, demonstration and practical instruction as part of the course, and offers the chance to ask questions,” asserts Samantha Kendrew, training manager at Gerrard International. “Avoid courses that don’t offer guidance, such as those that are very short or just offer pictures. Choose a beginner’s course that offers CPD points, too.”
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THE EDUCATOR
“When searching for an online course, it’s wise to choose a nail tech that already inspires you,” comments Jaz Moger, Salon System nail expert & owner of Paint by Jaz. “This way, you’ll be fully engaged and it’s unlikely you’ll be disappointed. It’s also really nice to support them.” Nail specialist, Jacqui O’Sullivan, adds, “Whatever online learning you’re interested in taking, please look for courses that offer these core modules and actions: • Health & safety/insurance recognition • Anatomy & physiology • Chemical structure of nail products • Client care & communication • Practical elements of the services you will offer • Qualification received and aftercare support • Qualifications held by the educator • Cost of equipment and products needed to complete course • How your work will be assessed and feedback given.”
TOP TIP
“I recommend The Inspired Space, which helps educators provide a home for their courses, with marketing support, email and list building automations,” reveals leading educator and nail artist, Sam Biddle. “These are all extras that you would need to pay for to build an online course delivery platform. This new platform offers educators their own tutor profile page and catalogue where the Inspired team will build the courses while the tutor provides the content.” Email nailit@beinspired.online to find out more. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 57
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EDUCATIONNAVIGATION Q&A: Jennie Nippard, co-founder of The FNP & director of Licence To Teach, deputy head of education for Glitterbels & owner, Herts Academy of Beauty www.jennienippard.co.uk What is the future of online learning?
Handy tools for virtual educators:
• Consider KB Glow from the Katie Barnes Tool Range; an innovative video and photo demo station to film nail and lash tutorials with ease. Available via www.katiebarnesacademy.com • Ensure you have a strong internet connection. This improves the quality of the training as students will get frustrated if your screen keeps freezing or if the video needs to buffer. • Use a desk lamp for lighting as it can be manipulated around your recording device to reduce shadows. • Invest in a phone clip or holder to suspend your recording device, means you can stabilise and set it up in the correct position.
“I like to use the Arkon Arm for online training as it’s very sturdy and can hold my phone and iPad, enabling me to screen share when teaching students online.” Jessica Wilkinson, head of education, Glitterama Nails Ltd.
Online training has such a fabulous future within our industry. It’s a brilliant option for many students, as it opens so many possibilities and enables people to train without having to travel. The results that students are achieving from online training are absolutely amazing. The world has changed so much, and the development in online training capabilities is one of the big positives to come from this. It is becoming part of the new future and will play a huge part in education within our industry for those who want to learn in this way.
What are the positives of online education from a mental health perspective? Many students are finding that their anxiety levels are greatly reduced by being able to learn in their own home or a relaxed environment, as they are able to focus fully on their learning without any additional worries that visiting a venue can bring. For some it can be daunting arriving at a training centre, to attend a group course, some students have even said that this has been a barrier for them. Throughout 2020, many people struggled with their mental health or had additional anxieties due to the global pandemic. Therefore, to give students something so positive to focus their energies and time on has been amazing.
Q&A: Tracey Lee, founder of Beauty2trs, www.beauty2trs.com What is Beauty2trs? I have been an educator since 2004 and part of my journey saw the need and the desire to continue to improve myself and my skills. This meant travelling extensively to get the education I wanted with many hours spent away from home, many Euros lighter (accommodation, flights, etc), without any regrets, however, I believe it can be made easier. The idea behind Beauty2trs is three-fold; firstly it offers students the opportunity to get education from educators they may not otherwise have the opportunity to see, due to location finances or other factors. The second reason is that not everyone ‘gets it’ after one demonstration. They may need to see and try a technique several times before they fully understand it. That is the great thing about Beauty2trs, as students have access to their class for a full year to rewatch, retry and perfect. Finally, it’s a platform to put the spotlight on talented instructors. Not all nail professionals are social media experts, so not everyone gets the exposure that they deserve. There’s just so much talent out there and this is a great way to share it with other nail professionals.
What challenges have you faced with online learning? Demonstration vs Education. In a time when there’s so much content available, I believe the biggest challenge is getting the message across regarding the difference between demonstration and education. There is absolutely a place for both, don’t get me wrong, I just feel the two are often incorrectly compared when one is charged and the other isn’t. Demonstration is showing others what you’re doing, while education takes it a step further and explains how and why, with the opportunity to get feedback from the educator. 58 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
Q&A: Hazel Dixon, founder of HD Nail Academy, www.hazeldixonnails.com Why isn’t online learning appropriate for all techniques/nail learning needs? Online learning is a great platform for techs looking to upskill and add to their already existing knowledge. For example, a fully qualified gel tech may want to learn how to create gel designs or learn specific aspects of a different brand’s gel. The tech has already had extensive training prior, understands the basic chemistry of gel products and is fully competent in the gel application process. A conversion class or art-based gel online class could be of great benefit to them should they not be able to access a classroom-based course. I strongly believe that any and all beginner technician training including an e-file should not be taught online, either pre-recorded or live. There are some elements of beginner training, which can be online, such as the theory side of health & safety, anatomy, allergies and chemistry etc. Delivering online education needs to be thought about carefully and the main question as an educator that I asked myself was: Would my completely new, never touched nails before, student get the very best, top quality training if I taught them live via a camera? My honest answer was no – there are too many variants that would make my students experience a lower quality than those I teach in a classroom. On camera, it’s difficult to see brush angle, pressure, bead placement and consistency when training one person. It’s even more difficult if trying to watch multiple students, and details can be missed. This works both ways with the students not seeing the educator as clearly on camera as they would in person.
EDUCATIONNAVIGATION Q&A: Sam Biddle, founder of Be Inspired Online nail education, www.beinspired.online What are the different online training methods available?
What are the practical benefits of online learning?
Online training can be so much more than just sitting alone watching a video demonstration of nail art or application. I believe that online training is a delicate balance of interaction, support and self-learning.
The obvious one is time and travel. You don’t need to leave your home and you can watch your lessons whenever and wherever. Another advantage is the ability to refer back to course lessons. I always have great intentions when I leave a class to do the designs and use the techniques I learned as soon as I get home. However, generally after a three-hour drive, I’m less inclined and after taking a day out to attend a class, I would have to catch up on the clients I re-shuffled to make the class. With online education, as long as you schedule a specific time, you can take a day, a week or a year to complete a course.
The core of any online course is either written or video, but online education also allows us to assess the student through quizzes and assignments, this gives a more in-depth and longer-lasting learning experience for the student. Covid-19 has led to a rise in online education, but we need to be careful as an industry not to fall into the trap of ‘cheap and cheerful’. As professionals, we want to offer the best experience for students in a capacity that we can afford, but we run the risk of undervaluing our skills and diminishing the need for educational standards in this field. It’s not a quick money making process; far from it. We have to always keep the student in the front of our minds and make sure they have all the tools available in an easy and accessible platform.
Another advantage is the support network. I encourage educators in the Be Inspired family to provide a support group to offer an additional assessment process for the students. This way they end up getting more time from their educator than they ever would in a classroom.
I believe online education has five different facets: 1. Video education. 2. Written and reading through downloads. 3. Assignments and quizzes, which allow the student to be assessed. 4. Personal meeting places online, either in small groups or one to one. 5. Video feedback on the practical work or specific questions.
The final advantage is price. Online education, when done properly, is an expensive way to provide a stable and secure home for courses. However, with ongoing residual income, buying an online course will be more cost effective than a one-day course. Depending on the content and the length of the course, I would say that online courses could cost a quarter of the price of a faceto-face course and you’re more likely to get more in the course.
“Many students are finding that their anxiety levels are greatly reduced by being able to learn in their own home or a relaxed environment, as they are able to focus fully on their learning without any additional worries that visiting a venue can bring.” Q&A: Hannah Garbett, founder of Staffordshire Nail Academy & Scratch Stars Educator of the Year finalist 20/21, www.snaprofessional.co.uk How did you find the move from face-to-face to online? Originally I was against creating an online training course as I didn’t think students would benefit and I personally love being hands-on with students. I didn’t think it would work and the students wouldn’t gain the expertise they needed.
groups than I train in house, so it’s a little more personal, even though it’s essentially learning via a screen.
What were the challenges? The challenge was to make sure that all of the courses were delivered with the same high quality outcome that the face-to-face training provides.
I then looked at things a little differently, as I realised it gave me the chance to reach a wider audience. Then after a lot of thought, I decided that if the structure was right, it could work. I then did a trial run with a family member to see if I felt comfortable delivering training online.
Technology is always a challenge, so picking an easy-to-use platform for every student was important. It took time to set up the online training, as I wanted to provide important resources to be used alongside, but let’s face it, with lockdown I had plenty of time.
I now advocate online learning as I feel participants get less distracted in an online session rather than classroom, as we can often get sidetracked into discussing other subjects rather than the course at hand. I’ve set the online classes up to be smaller
Once able to open again with some continued normality, I will set up dates for free of charge, small face-to-face refresher sessions for anyone that has previously trained with us online.
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EDUCATIONNAVIGATION
The future of learning... While online education may only be thought of as a temporary solution brought about by the Covid-19 pandemic, for learning as a whole, it may be more of a permanent option. According to research conducted by the market intelligence company IDC, higher education institutions will expect to see an increased demand for remote learning, with 55% expecting an increase in demand for video conferencing and virtual workplaces as well as 35% expecting an increase in demand for secure and remote access tools. In terms of the nail industry, professionals believe a more hybrid approach will be applied, with a combination of the two being best suited to train different skillsets. Here’s what the nail professionals had to say…
Q&A: Jacqui O’Sullivan, nail specialist Q&A What are the pros and cons of online education vs face-to-face? At the moment everyone from primary school children, through to university and higher education learners are receiving some form of online education. From Zoom, Google Classrooms or Microsoft Teams lessons, some form of online-assisted learning is being used. Although there are those who still believe that nothing can take the place of an educator and face-to-face teaching.
Pros:
• The learners do not have to travel to college and can study from home. • Learners can sometimes have more flexibility in terms of the time they access their classes to better fit with their schedule. • Online learning allows verbal and face-to-face interaction during set times as well as accessing recorded classes. • I record all lessons so students can replay content as needed, so they can master what has been taught. • All teaching resources are online and can be accessed at any time, or printed out as a learner chooses. • Feedback from quizzes and exams can be given and recorded, so learners have up-to-date knowledge of their progress.
Cons:
• There are times when teaching or observing a practical lesson in a classroom is better, as I can interact when necessary with my learners without having to wait to ask questions. • A learner may not have access to online equipment such as a tablet or laptop. • Not everyone has access to a stable internet connection. • It can be difficult to motivate some learners to join online classes. • Some theory lessons may be provided using long presentations and can be challenging for the learners and educator. • Personal contact with my learners can be limited and this can mean a delay in any response to them. • Some practical sessions can be difficult for a learner to perform in an online learning environment, especially those where a salon professional service is being observed. There may be equipment and supplies that must be on-site, and the educator may need to physically observe the learner use the equipment safely and competently.
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“I think online training is here to stay. There’s nothing better than learning face-to-face, but online opens courses up to people who can’t attend face-to-face courses.” Jessica Wilkinson, head of education, Glitterama Nails Ltd www.glitterama-nails.com
“I really think the platform of nail education has now changed for the future. It has given nail techs more confidence and also a wider variety of training providers to choose from. Competition when it comes to training is good, as I believe it makes serious training providers continue to improve their courses and offer the best they possibly can to make them stand out from the crowd. I think this has encouraged many more techs to train and they have enjoyed the online training immensely. “Moving forward I envision a type of ‘hybrid’ training incorporating online learning with potential face-to-face assessments once the initial training has been completed.” Hannah Garbett, founder of Staffordshire Nail Academy www.snaprofessional.co.uk
“We have all been hit so hard by the pandemic and many businesses are struggling to survive, so many may feel it’s the only way out and many students may also see it as potentially a cheaper option to get them started. I can truly sympathise with this and I understand the need to ensure your business can continue and students wanting to learn on a budget. “There are many students who’ve experienced some good basic education online but for me it’s not a direction I’d like to see the industry go in on a more permanent basis. In an industry built on personal touch, I fear that we could lose the personal level of connection if we do have a generation of techs taught only via camera. “I for one cannot wait to get back in the classroom with my students and colleagues teaching again. I love the atmosphere and I know so many of our students are really looking forward to coming back.” Hazel Dixon, founder of HD Nail Academy www.hazeldixonnails.com
EDUCATIONNAVIGATION “I certainly think virtual learning has changed the nail landscape for good in a post-Covid world. There will always be a need for face-to-face training, however, there are so many benefits to online learning for educators and students alike, that I can see it growing rapidly in popularity. I think there’ll be a boom of in-salon training post-Covid when we can return to safely deliver it, however online learning will become a large part of the nail learning landscape for good.” Ruth Munro, Magpie Beauty educator www.magpie-beauty.co.uk
“Virtual learning has proven a key value addition over the years and of course more so over the last year. One positive to come out of being in a lockdown is that many people around the world have become extensively more familiar and confident with virtual learning. In saying that, I believe all learning institutions will need to have a virtual presence for all students. “Regarding nail qualifications, it’s proven as an added advantage where online workshops can expand current skills including nail shaping and nail art. They are perfect as students can watch the workshops multiple times allowing them ample time to perfect their artistic skills. However, beginners will always benefit from face-to-face learning as an initiation where educators can better critique techniques.” Helena Gibbs, TGB Academy manager www.thegelbottle-academy.com
“I think the world will be different in all aspects post-Covid, and this includes education. I think the ‘new normal’ is here to stay. Virtual education has allowed so much flexibility for students meaning they can learn from home, working it around their job, children and family.
Introducing Nail Knowledge … After nearly two years in the planning, an idea voiced by Kevin Nicholls from Roo Beauty to Marian Newman has resulted in Nail Knowledge; fact-based online learning with a difference. Nail Knowledge provides the information and understanding essential for the nail professional. It’s presented via three masterclasses; The Nail Unit, Product Chemistry and Health & Safety, each offering five to six separate lessons. Every individual learns in different ways. Some like reading, some listening, some watching and some ‘experiencing’. Theory is almost always taught using 2D images and diagrams while Nail Knowledge animates all of this teaching. Marian comments, “You can see the nail growing from the nail matrix; you can watch polymerisation happening; see the blood and antibodies rush to fight an allergen! “Nail Knowledge hits every learning style with beautiful graphics and animations. The written word and the spoken word come together with knowledge points in each lesson and knowledge checks after each lesson. It culminates in the final exam which, when passed, results in the Nail Knowledge Essential Nail Professional diploma.”
“I didn’t realise how big an impact delivering education online would have during these times. I absolutely love being able to support professionals virtually and the feedback I’ve had is always positive.” Victoria Trafford, Sweet Squared education ambassador www.sweetsquared.com Marian Newman
“Personally, I think virtual learning is amazing in the world that we’re currently living in. We nail techs have been blessed with the gift of time and should use it wisely to brush up on our skills and show them off online to get our clients excited to come back into our salons once we reopen. However, I do really miss meeting new people face-to-face and having a day out to take part in a course; I can’t wait for the day when that can happen again.” Jaz Moger, Salon System nail expert & owner of Paint by Jaz
“Virtual learning has proven a key value addition over the years and of course more so over the last year. One positive to come out of being in a lockdown is that many people around the world have become extensively more familiar and confident with virtual learning.”
Vitaly Solomonoff
Doug Schoon
Marian Newman is the author and has collaborated with two other experts; Vitaly Solomonoff (a dermatologist and cosmetic chemist), who edited masterclass one: The Nail Unit and Doug Schoon (world-renowned nail expert and scientist), who edited masterclass two: Product Chemistry. Visit www.nailknowledge.org for more information.
FIND ONLINE COURSES
To view a selection of online courses and workshops, visit the Events page on the Scratch website or scan here
SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 61
SCRATCHCOLUMNIST
GROW & GLOW WITH
e i d d a M HOW TO CREATE A STRONG & SUCCESSFUL TEAM
E
ffective teamwork is something that every organisation should strive to implement and is particularly important in the salon business.
During my time at 81 Rose Garden, I have learnt that the way a team works together determines its success. You may have the greatest group of individuals in the salon, but effective teamwork accomplishes so much more than each individual can do alone. Following the past 12 months, I have never been more aware of the importance of good communication. Encouraging the discussion of ideas, airing opinions, sorting out disputes and nurturing the wellbeing of your staff is critical – especially when workloads increase or things change, just as they have for our industry since the start of the global pandemic. Teams are made up of very different personalities, which means that it’s essential to get to know your staff on a personal level and understand that what motivates one may not motivate another. Not all personalities gel and newcomers can alter a team’s balance, while quieter individuals may struggle to fit in or get overlooked. It is vital to remember that ignoring one individual means you are failing to achieve the performance potential of the team. So how do you keep staff motivated, promote team spirit and achieve effective teamwork in the salon? In my opinion, the team needs to be nurtured constantly. A happy team makes a healthy business. Working in a team should be fun and inspiring. I really believe that putting a little bit of levity and humour into the workplace is a great strategy. There’s more to building a successful salon business than taking care of each client’s nails, skin and hair. Taking your salon to the next level means finding ways to encourage employees to thrive, become real team players and contribute to growing your salon and making it successful. Good luck!
Maddie x www.81rosegarden.com /81RoseGarden
@maddisonrosenails @81rosegarden
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Talented salon tech, nail artist & educator, MADDIE REGAN, shares her advice on salon matters to help your business bloom…
TOP TIPS
Here are a few tips that I have picked up along the way, which come with input from our salon manager, Sam Wetwood. By operating an ‘open door’ policy at 81 Rose Garden, Sam helps to keep staff members working in harmony.
1
Give your team members the power to make their own decisions and celebrate their success One of the easiest ways to make team members lose faith in teamwork is by restricting their freedom to make decisions that allow them to accomplish their tasks. Collaboration is essential to the success of the salon and managers need to deploy skills to enable all team members to succeed while accomplishing that shared objective. Never forget to acknowledge and celebrate the achievements of individual team members. This will motivate the individuals and result in effective teamwork.
2
Share clearly defined team objectives Share your vision and the mission of your salon with all employees and create a positive company culture and happy workplace. Then, clearly define and set achievable goals and targets. We give our team regular feedback and praise and have created a sense of belonging so that we can support staff when needed. However, working life shouldn’t be too serious, so try to create a fun, caring atmosphere to help develop a team culture.
3
Training We provide on-going training for our team, drawing on individual strengths. We encourage team members to train others with and reinforce outside training, often asking our nail artists and stylists who attend a class to share what they have learnt with other team members. We also encourage our staff members to maintain a positive attitude in front of clients, as well as in the back room where they eat lunch and take breaks.
4
Host efficient team meetings Although it’s not feasible to promote teamwork without having team meetings, make sure that meetings are productive and purposeful. We encourage our team to bring up their issues, but rather than focusing on individuals, discuss ways to change the situation as a team so everyone feels responsible for improving the way the salon operates. At 81 Rose Garden, we also creates opportunities to spend time together as a team in less formal ways. We have a staff room where we can eat lunch together and have a chat. Pre-pandemic, we organised social events and regular ‘after work’ drinks to get to know one another on a personal level, away from the stresses of work.
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TECHSPOTLIGHT
READERS GALLERY London-based tech, JULIA DIOGO, shares her perfectly painted nail plates, go-to products & more…
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TECHSPOTLIGHT
Name – Julia Diogo
Fav products – Bio Sculpture Base Gel, Weleda’s Skin Food and the Cuticle Balm from Navy Pro Tools.
Age – 29 years Business name – Painted By Jools Location – South London Years in nails – I have been a qualified beauty therapist for 12 years yet nails have always been my passion and have become my main focus. Trained with – I learned my craft at The London College of Beauty Therapy and went on to train with Bio Sculpture during the first lockdown last year, which was incredible. The brand’s ethos and the science behind the products is amazing.
Fav nail design – The French manicure, without doubt! It is timeless and classic. Clean, classic manicures will always be my go-to. Career ambition & vision – I want to travel more and become a session manicurist. I have been part of some really amazing projects recently that I can’t wait to showcase. Who do you admire in the industry? There are many techs that I admire but I love that we are all on different paths – but are also exactly where we need to be. I look up to anyone with a great work ethic, perseverance and ambition. @Paintedbyjools_
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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST
Elevate your nail artistry, social media, business skills & more with tips from Clawgasmic co-founder, CHANTELLE VERMONT …
A
s it’s Valentine’s month, I want to encourage you to practise self love and discuss something I’m very passionate about; the effects of social media on our confidence, self worth and mental health.
ABOUT CHANTELLE VERMONT (CHAN) Chan has been working as a nail technician for 16 years and ran her own nail studio for seven years before launching Clawgasmic with her marketeer partner, Jouvan Johnson. With a passion for nail art, Chan helps fellow techs to improve their skills, grow their business and gain confidence through the Clawgasmic community. The talented tech has completed six seasons at London Fashion Week and has grown a vast social media following owning to her dedication to uplifting fellow pros in the industry.
I’m your cheerleader now, so on those days when business feels a little harder than usual, I got you! You may experience days when a nail art look you’re working on is making you want to throw your brush out of the window, but I’m here to remind you that you need to keep going. However, you need to meet me halfway and give yourself a little love. Social media is a wonderful tool we can use to connect, inspire, promote our businesses and so much more, but I am aware that it can also have a negative effect on people. We are humans. We compare ourselves to others and this can make us feel unsure about what we are doing, or even worse – make us doubt ourselves. We’ve all been there but others are not you, and equally, you are not them! There is something really special about you. Those you compare yourself to aren’t going to do nails like you, and vice versa. This is why Jouvan and I try to teach techs to find and focus on their own superpower. Your superpower could be that you love nail art, or that you create a smooth ombré design. Perhaps
TECH TALK
Each month, I’ll be helping you get to know a nail artist that I admire and it is only right that, this February, I shout out to my girl crush – Joanne of @merakinails.cardiff. Not only is Joanne lovely inside and out, but she is super talented and I can call her my friend. Our paths crossed a few years ago and she shares her skills in the Clawgasmic Nail Network. JoJo - how did you get into the nail world? I was obsessed with nails as a teenager! I’d save the money my 68 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
you’re fantastic at fine line work, or maybe French manicures are your thing. Alternatively, you could be an expert at creating a great salon environment, or you may be so bubbly and chatty that your clients can’t wait to bag an appointment with you as they have so much fun. It could be anything… but it’s you. Do you know how cool that is? There will only ever be and has only ever been one you! So here is a reminder that you are incredible just the way you are. Find your superpower and work on it. If it’s your personality that people comment on, show it off by getting your face on Instagram Stories. If flawless application is your thing, zoom in on your photos and show us your skills via your social accounts. If you love bright, fun, artistic nail art then flood our feeds with your colourful content. Stop watching other people and just keep creating. Use social media platforms to share your superpower with the world and remember – you have control over who you follow and therefore what you see. Follow accounts that lift you up and make you feel good or that inspire you so much that you have to run to your nail supplies seconds after seeing a post. You are the best you there has ever been. Keep practising, keep creating and show the world what you’ve got! Love always,
Chan x
mum gave me for bus fare and walk to school just so I could go to Claire’s Accessories and buy a new nail polish every Saturday. When I left school I wanted to do nails, and back then, the industry wasn’t as big as it is now. My mum and dad thought it was a phase, and I ended up studying and trained as a dental nurse. Then, one day, I saw a salon opening up in my town centre that was seeking a trainee nail tech. I handed in my CV and was invited to a trial day and I loved it so much! I got the job and trained for two years and never looked back. I then went on to work for Nails Inc, then a local salon, before taking the plunge two years ago to start working for myself.
SCRATCHCOLUMNIST
STEP-BY-STEP: LOVE STRUCK FOR VALENTINE’S DAY I love a red and pink combo for Valentine’s Day, but don’t let that limit you for this look; consider adding glitter or switching up the shades for a style that suits all year round.
Step 1 Apply gel polish base coat and cure. Next, apply two coats of your chosen base shade, curing between each coat. Using a thin striping brush with light pressure, paint a line down the centre of the nail using your desired shade.
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Step 2 Using the same shade and brush, paint half a heart shape on one side of the line and fill in with colour. Don’t load your brush with too much product as it makes it harder to control. Cure when you are happy with the shape. Step 3 Create the opposite colourway on the other side of the line. Work your way from the top of the heart shape down to the bottom to make sure each side is even. This also takes the pressure off trying to paint the outline in one sweep.
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Step 4 Make your way around the edge of the nail with the brush and your chosen shade and pull the colour round to the side walls, down to the cuticle area and up to the tip. Cure. Step 5 Apply your choice of matte or gloss top coat to finish and cure.
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For a full nail art video tutorial of this look and to gain access to over 90 other tutorials, check out the Clawgasmic Nail Network: www.clawgasmic.com /clawgasmic @clawgasmic
What are your favourite nail looks to create? I’m confident in creating ombré looks as I love that you can choose a soft classic French or neon-style rainbow designs using the technique. An ombré style can also be a really effective base for designs.
practise. Nail techs have put months and years into their work and no one is amazing overnight, so take your time and perfect your foundation first. It is not all about followers and likes. If Instagram went offline, would that affect your business? No! Because followers are not bums on seats.
What advice can you give nail techs or those new to the industry? Try not to compare yourself to everyone you see on Instagram. People only show you what they want you to see. I know there are some nail sets I’ve done that I’ve not been too happy with, and so I don’t class them as ‘Instagrammable’. A good set of nails takes
What is your favourite thing about being a nail tech? I am fortunate to be able to do what I love every day. When I’m not doing nails, I miss it, and can be found looking at nail pics or tutorials, ordering nail supplies or planning my next set! I will never be bored of the nail world as there is always something new to try. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 69
SALONSPOTLIGHTS
Through the
Keyhole
Take a peek inside salon setups across the country as Scratch unlocks each door…
Frankie Alice Nails Location: Congleton, Cheshire
When Francesca Alice Nield was furloughed last year from her job in the hospitality sector, she seized the opportunity to pursue her dream career and set up her own studio. “I had previously trained with Nails By Annabel, and then used the first lockdown to create my workspace,” she beams. Francesca is now able to offer a variety of nail treatments from a pretty pink setup. “I based my décor on my logo,” she explains. “I chose purple, pink and white tones, alongside a few sparkly touches. These are my favourite colours; I wanted something that both reflected my personality and brightened up the room. I love the finished look! “My favourite part of the setup is my bright pink neon sign. It reads ‘Be different babe’ – and I couldn’t agree more with that phrase. I feel that people should show off their individuality and embrace it!” /frankiealicenails
@frankiealicenails
Nails by Sarah Astles
Location: Wallasey Village, Wirral
After closing the doors to her high street salon during the first lockdown, Pure Nails ambassador, Sarah Astles, set about creating a new workspace in the garden of her family home. “My husband and I built a cabin,” Sarah explains. “It’s a happy and relaxed space; we have squirrels and birds that come to the feeders in the garden. They keep the clients amused during their appointments! The salon is away from the hustle and bustle of busy life. Clients can just sit back, relax and enjoy the outside area. “I chose to keep the colour scheme simple, so picked two different shade of pinks with bright white furniture. Artificial plants bring the outside into the cabin. “I wanted to make the salon feel warm and welcoming, and that my clients feel that they are visiting somewhere special – just for them.”
Do you want to be featured on this page? Scan here to submit your salon or setup 70 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
www.nailsbysarahastles.co.uk /nailsbysarahastles @nails_by_sarah_astles
TECHFORTECHS
11
must-have apps &
online business tools
Get organised & streamline your work life with Scratch’s pick of handy apps & tools to benefit your business & boost your profile BY KAT HILL
1
Videoleap by Lightricks
Create videos for Instagram Reels or TikTok with this handy editing app, suitable for any skill level. Users can cut and combine clips easily and add video and sound effects. It also offers advanced editing features such as a green screen function and overlays. Price: Free. Also offers in-app purchases. Devices: Apple iOS
2
Canva
Available on both desktop and via its app, this is an easy-to-use design tool. It allows you to create sleek and customisable marketing materials and social TOP TIP media content. Canva features a huge variety Upgrading your of licence-free graphics and templates in account to Canva Pro ready-to-use dimensions – from Instagram unlocks the Brand Kit, which feed posts to stories, and Facebook banners allows you to add your logo, to business cards. brand fonts and shades. It also Price: Free, with paid upgrade option for includes access to 75+ million extra features. premium stock photos, as well as Devices: Apple iOS, Google Play
a handy resizing tool to ensure your design is ready for any platform.
4
iMovie
If you’re keen to create more in-depth tutorials or YouTube videos, the app version of Apple’s video editing program will be a handy addition to your phone or tablet. It offers sleek editing tools to trim and splice video clips, as well as an easy way to add music or your own voice over. You can also add text over your video, making the app ideal for creating tutorials with steps to follow. Price: Free Devices: Apple iOS
3
Myrror
Myrror allows you to photograph and track any treatment to see progression via a photo timeline. Each photo is time stamped and can be commented on, so is a great way to record notes. Whether used by the nail pro or the client, the app displays images side by side to allow for comparison between appointments – great for tracking nail growth or condition. Price: Free 14-day trial, then a monthly or annual subscription. Devices: Apple iOS, Google Play
5
Watermark Pro Signature & Logo
Build your brand and protect your photos online with this handy watermarking app. To use, simply upload your logo with a transparent background to easily add it to your nail snaps. Alternatively, you can create watermarks or text overlays quickly with the app’s library of fonts and graphics. Price: £1.99 Devices: Apple iOS
Scratch’s guest editor, Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, comments: “I couldn’t live without my daily iPhone reminders or calendar appointments; it’s so nice to have my itinerary at the touch of a finger. For photo editing, I like A Color Story; for social media scheduling, I find UNUM and Later to be very helpful. I use all three of these apps when putting together content for my Instagram page, @1stladyofcolors, through which I share business advice, thoughts on trends, and nail colours and art that inspires me.” 72 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
TECHFORTECHS
6
Facebook Creator Studio
Manage your business’ Facebook page seamlessly with Creator Studio. The DID YOU app allows you to publish and KNOW? schedule content across the If you use Facebook platform, as well as measure Creator Studio on your laptop engagement with followers. or desktop, you can post and It offers an easy way to keep on top of your schedule content to your business notifications and manage your page’s inbox. Instagram page. Simply link your Price: Free Insta account to Creator Studio. Devices: Apple iOS, Google Play
It also unlocks intuitive insights tools to track your social media success.
7
One to watch!
Clubhouse
This app offers a live audio platform that allows users to listen or participate in live discussions. Via ‘rooms’, you can connect and talk to people from around the globe on a huge variety of topics anytime. The app uses solely audio: there’s no video, messaging or comments. Conversations can’t be saved or recorded through the app – allowing for engaging dialogue. Currently, due to demand, the app is invite only. However, existing users of the app can invite new users or you can join the waiting list. Price: Free Devices: Apple iOS
9
Calm
With mental wellness an imperative focus for all, and an increasingly important one owing to the pandemic, Calm was designed to aid sleep, meditation and relaxation. It features original audio content designed to aid anxiety and boost wellness with guided meditations, stretching exercises, breathing programmes and relaxing music. Price: Subscription is required. Devices: Apple iOS, Google Play
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Stretch & Flexibility at Home Ease the aches and pain of tekking life by incorporating stretches into your day. Helping to reduce muscle stiffness, release pain and relieve stress, this app offers a wide variety of walkthrough stretching guides to work on different areas of the body or problem zones. You can create your own personalised routines and it features a reminder function to help you make stretching a daily habit. Price: Free, with paid upgrade. Devices: Apple iOS, Google Play
8
Pocket PA
Pocket PA claims to be a ‘booking to book-keeping tool’ – with many helpful functions in between. Designed to take the stress out of small business management, this app features colour coding to help the user understand their finances instantly with dials to track earnings. Other features include an easy-to-navigate appointment diary for you and online booking functions for both your website and social media profiles. It also includes business expense tracking with fast receipt storage. What’s more, the app allows you to take CLAIM card payment with no need for NOW! a card reader! Start your free Price: 30-day free trial, then 30-day trial at monthly or annual subscription. www.pocketpa.com Devices: Web based, but mobile friendly.
11
Wanna Nails
Using augmented reality technology, this app allows users to try out nail shades via their phone’s camera. A Covid-safe option, as it prevents clients from touching your nail pops, they simply place their hand in front of the camera and the app detects the fingernails and adds polish. The app cleverly changes colour as the user scrolls and ‘tries on’ the shades on the app; you can then select your closest shade for their mani/pedi. Price: Free Devices: Apple iOS
SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 73
INTRODUCING PEACCI
Inspired by The GelBottle’s best selling collection, we bring you Peacci Nu Nudes. 12 highly pigmented nail polish shades that will perfectly complement every skin tone, as one nude doesn’t fit all.
LAUNCHING SOON.
PEACCI.COM
@PEACCIBRAND
WORKWEAR&APPAREL
THE
PERFECT
fit
Explore stylish workwear apparel & business branding opportunities to suit any setup or style
Laura Tunic in Black £22 + VAT www.diamonddesignsuniforms.com
KAT HILL REPORTS First impressions count. Now more than ever, you want to instil trust in your clients and reassure them that good practice is of the utmost importance to you. But, where do you start? You: your attire gives you the chance to make a great first and lasting impression. “Your whole appearance is often a direct reflection of your business,” enthuses Julie-Anne Larivière, Salon System nail expert & owner of Sketched by J-A Nails. “If your appearance is neat, clients will believe that you care just the same about your business.” “Your client is often looking at you while you work,” explains Tammy Koslowski, founder of NAF! Stuff & NAF! Salon. “You should always assume that they have the same attention to detail as you, so if there’s lots of dust on your uniform or a lunch stain on there, they may spend a lot more time looking at it than you think!”
Apparel advice “Your workwear can perform several functions: it protects your own clothes, creates brand identity and helps clients identify between other customers and staff,” states Rebekka Costello of Nail Order.
Scratch’s guest editor, Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, comments: “In any job, it’s very important to make a good first impression. This impression starts with looking professional and should extend to your surroundings. That means keeping your workstation clean and sanitised; always prepared to receive the customer. Like professional attire, your space gives a customer confidence in your ability to give the best possible service.”
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Top tip “Workwear should be comfortable,” explains Pure Nails ambassador, Tina Hallows. “There is nothing worse than having to work all day feeling agitated, uncomfortable or insecure in what you are wearing.”
Choosing for a team
If you’re managing a team, consider its input in the uniform decision to ensure everyone feels comfortable. “Coordinating your uniform helps make your salon look professional,” states Tina Hallows. “Branded clothes are also a great way to look professional and especially in the case of a larger salon with several members of staff,” states Julie-Anne Larivière. “It brings uniformity. If you have many members of staff, have a few different styles to choose from to suit all shapes and needs.” “In my team, we make the decision together,” states head of education for Pure Nails, Tina Bell. “We decide what we like and feel comfortable in. We also choose something that is appropriate for work. For example, no low cut or sleeveless tops and nothing too short in length.”
Comfort is key “Consider the sector you specialise in,” says CND™ education ambassador, Elissa Newton. “A pro who spends most of their day tanning clients shouldn’t opt for white. Some prefer short sleeves when waxing and performing massage services for easier movement and keeping cool. “I would recommend my nail students to wear long sleeves, especially if they offer L&P services, to prevent dust from products from coming into contact with the skin on their arms.”
WORKWEAR&APPAREL
TUNICS & UNIFORMS
Workwear options
A staple workwear item, tunics offer a sleek, timeless option for professionals. “If you want them to see your business as professional, knowledgeable and trustworthy, it’s important that your therapists look the part,” explains Grace Crowley, managing director at Buttercups Uniforms. “It’s imperative that your choice of uniform is durable and practical enough for a busy day at work.” “The style choices are endless,” adds Aisling Kavanagh, sales & marketing director of Diamond Designs Uniforms. “There are wrap around, mock wrap or buttoned styles; with collars or without. The choice is endless and you can also mix and match styles within the salon to cater for all tastes. For trousers, we offer bootleg, straight cut, cropped or leggings. The slim line silhouette is still proving popular in 2021.”
APRONS
The team at Olivia’s Beauty, Swansea, Wales, wears chic matching black tunics
Fabric aprons can offer a great way to stay on brand around the salon. What’s more, they’re unisex and suitable for all sizes.
“I love wearing my Magpie apron in the salon,” smiles Ruth Munro, Magpie Beauty educator. “It’s comfortable, professional and also displays my Magpie badges from the accredited training courses I have completed.”
Julie-Anne Larivière in her branded apron
“I think it’s a wonderful idea to get custom aprons with your logo on them,” Tammy Koslowski agrees. “The whole NAF! Salon team wears our NAF! Stuff Tough as Nails aprons. “Personalised aprons are relatively inexpensive to get customised. You usually have to pay a set-up fee for the embroidery, but if you’re ordering a few for yourself or for team members, it works out better.” Cuccio Naturalé apron £6.89 + VAT www.cuccio.co.uk
Nicole Tunic in Grey £25.60 + VAT www.diamonddesignsuniforms.com Waist-Detail Tunic with Pockets B620 in Blush £39.99 + VAT www.buttercupsuniforms.com
Top tip
“Before you invest, read the care instructions,” explains Grace Crowley. “You don’t want something that needs to be hand washed or may require lots of ironing. Ideally, a uniform can be thrown into the washing machine, dries quickly and requires little or no ironing. You also want to choose a uniform that is made of high-quality, durable fabric.”
NAF! Stuff Tough As Nails Indigo Denim Apron £20 inc VAT www.nafstuff.com
Lecenté Apron £9.99 + VAT www.lecente.com www.sweetsquared.com
CND™ 40th Anniversary Apron £15.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com
Apparel advice “Wash inside out to preserve design features, such as diamantés or lace,” states Aisling Kavanagh.
Long Sleeve Tunic with Front Pocket B036E in Sapphire £31.99 + VAT www.buttercupsuniforms.com
Indigo Nails Black Apron £25 inc VAT www.indigo-nails.co.uk Majestic Towels Multipocket Apron £13.95 + VAT www.majestictowels.co.uk
SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 77
>>
WORKWEAR&APPAREL Whether you opt for a hoody, sweatshirt or t-shirt, personalised clothing offers a way to keep your brand on display.
BRANDED CLOTHING
“Personalised or branded clothes are a great way to look professional,” comments Julie-Anne Larivière, Salon System nail expert & owner of Sketched by J-A Nails. “I personally prefer embroidered logos.” “Nothing looks more professional than adding the name or logo of your business to your uniform,” adds Grace Crowley. “At Buttercups Uniforms, we offer a choice of embroidery services. You can either upload your own logo or choose from our range of fonts for your company name. It’s a relatively small investment for a real boost to your branding.”
Check it!
üDecide between
NAF! Stuff Nail Boss Hoodie £30 inc VAT www.nafstuff.com
Peacci‘ Nail It Tee £29 inc VAT www.peacci.com
Pointers: Updating your uniform
Peacci‘ Nail It Hoodie £49 inc VAT www.peacci.com
Following the manufacturer’s guidance when caring for a uniform will help prolong its life. However, inspect it regularly to ensure it’s not starting to look worn. You may also want to consider seasonal options. “I change my salon team’s uniform twice a year, as we go from summer to winter, to ensure the staff members are comfortable,” says Tina Bell.
Nail Order Zip Hoodie £30 + VAT www.nailorder.co.uk
a printed or embr oidered design. “We’ve fo und that having em broidered ap ro ns m ea ns w e ge t m uc h m or e lif e ou t of th em , pr in te d op tio ns ar e gr ea t an d of te n ch ea pe r bu t do n’ t la st as m an y m ac hi ne w as he s, ” sa ys Ta m m y Ko sl ow sk i. üShop around an d secure quotes for the best price. üCheck if a bulk di scount can be ap plied to your order. Spares are always handy! üSelect the mater ial carefully. “Uni forms are worn every day an d must look smar t at all times. They must wash well and stay crumplefree during a long shift,” states Grace Crowley, MD at Buttercup s Uniforms. üBe practical with your colour choi ce. ü Ensure there are plenty of sizing op tions. “This is important if you are caterin g for a team,” adds Rebe kka Costello of Na il Order.
Apparel advice
Gelish T-shirt with Silver Rhinestones £15 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com
“The workwear you choose to dress you and your team in should be comfortable but well fitted,” says Light Elegance education ambassador, Susan McGirl. “A bugbear of mine is trousers that are too long for the wearer. The constant drag of a bedraggled and dirty hem across the floor is very off-putting.”
“There are so many things you can personalise and brand in your salon,” Tammy Koslowski states. “If your client can see it, you can personalise it!”
SALON BRANDING & ACCESSORIES
With that in mind, your setup should shout about you and your business. Make your business memorable with wall art. Whether you opt for a neon sign or acrylic plaque, ensure your logo is in eyesight of the client. You could even consider a custom pull up banner or desk mat – the ideal backdrop for clients snapping nailfies to share on social media. When refreshments can be offered again, order mugs printed with your salon’s logo. Don’t forget, lanyards and name badges make a great addition to uniforms, too. “You can also opt for little extras such as branded towels, mugs, pens, notepads,” adds Julie-Anne Larivière. “Nail professionals can also showcase their brand of choice effectively by using branded towels, mugs and stationery,” says Ruth Munro. Frankie Alice Nails, Cheshire
Rosie Doran creates a statement wall with the neon sign of her logo
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Don’t be afraid to get creative with your branding and look around for inspiration. “Online selling platform, Etsy, is a great place to find personalised items for your salon,” states Tammy Koslowski. “We’re actually launching an exciting branding service over at NAF! Stuff HQ soon – keep your eyes peeled!”
Light Elegance Pen £3.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com
WORKWEAR&APPAREL
ON-THE-GO BRANDING
Whether you choose to wrap your car with your logo or invest in tote bags for carrying your kit, there are plenty of ways to promote your business when you’re on the move. Consider seeking a branded water bottle or hot drink flask to keep hydrated. Notebooks and pens printed with your logo could also be an eye-catching option for when you’re filling consultation forms or taking notes. “As a mobile nail tech, I love using the Pure Nails drawstring bags,” enthuses Abi Garvey, Pure Nails ambassador. “These branded bags look so professional, plus – they can carry so much and are very easy to clean. “An alternative to towels is the Pure Nails Desk Mat. It’s branded, so looks very professional, and is easy to clean after each client.”
Nail Order Water Bottle £12 + VAT www.nailorder.co.uk
Metta Francis, of Nails By Mets uses a branded jute bag for her kit.
Emma Tapley’s branded car
Pure Nails Desk Mat £2.99 + VAT www.purenails.co/stockists
Mask up!
NSI Vinyl Carrying Bag £7.99 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk
Armagentum Face Mask with Swarovski Crystals £35 + VAT/RRP £59.90 www.sweetsquared.com
Pure Nails Halo Nylon Drawstring Bag in Blue £2.99 + VAT www.purenails.co/stockists
Top tips for towel care
Bio Sculpture Mobile Tech Bag £70.83 + VAT www.renewbeauty.co.uk
Abbas Vawda, MD at Majestic Towels, shares his top tips for caring and cleaning your towels…
Top tip
“I like to wear a name badge,” explains Nicole Dowling. “This avoids any awkward moments if a new client forgets my name!”
Cuccio Naturalé Large Logo Bag in Grey £1.40 + VAT www.cuccio.co.uk
Light Elegance Pink Camelback Water Bottle £30.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com
Indigo Towel in Black £3.30 inc VAT www.indigo-nails.co.uk
CND™ Towel £6.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com
Top Tip
The Gel Bottle Inc Towel £9 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com
“Salons using oils during treatments, such as massage, should opt for towels in darker colours, such as chocolate, aubergine, navy or black,” cites Abbas Vawda.
“For a busy business that requires daily laundering, it is advisable to opt for a middle weight towel (around 500gsm). This will be very durable, giving reduced washing and drying times, thus being eco-friendly and cost effective. “In order to extend the towel’s longevity, launder using a domestic washing machine and tumble dryer where possible. The washing cycle is kind to the fabric and the machines are now smaller but with a larger drum capacity – making them a practical choice. “In order to retain the colour, shape and quality, it is essential to launder according to the manufacturer’s recommendations on the care label, with a temperature between 30 to 40 degrees. Avoid products that contain optic whitener as this will bleach and fade colours. Protect the vibrancy by using a colour care liquid. “The frequency with which towels should be updated is dependent on the amount of use they receive. If they are laundered on a daily basis, they will need to be replaced more regularly. A higher quality, double stitched towel will have far greater longevity than a cheaper quality product.”
NSI Crystal Table Organiser £10 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk MAVEX 100% Cotton Bath Towels in White £30 + VAT www.mavex.uk
Astonishing Nails Table Mat £10.50 + VAT www.snaprofessional.co.uk
SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 79
www.nailorder.com Tel: 01642 504858
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AVAILABLE IN - GEL, DIP, LACQUER
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NAILSCENE
BRAND
WAT C H Get to know the names behind brands that are attracting attention across the nail scene… My Papillon Beauty Salon colleagues, Kelly McGuinness and Claire Whittle, launched My Papillion Beauty in September 2019. Following considerable research, they welcomed a range of ‘super special’ cuticle oil pens and strip lashes. The range features 14 cuticle oil scents in four ranges. • The Deluxe collection: Coco Madamoiselle, Million, Coco & Sandalwood and Lime, Basil & Mandarin. • The Fruity collection: Fruit Salad, Banana, Watermelon and Cherry Bakewell. • The Cocktail collection: Passionfruit Martini and Strawberry Daiquiri • The Refreshing collection: Peppermint and Fresh Lemon Sherbet. The brand also offers Christmas scents, which prove popular all year round. “We are both incredibly passionate about our brand and our main aim is to bring the best products to our customers,” the duo comments. “We wanted to create products that have lasting value and that our customers would return to purchase time and time again.” After researching ingredients, scent combinations, oils and application pens, the pair designed packaging reflective of their ethos. “Each cuticle oil pen is assembled by us,” they continue. “So much hard work goes into creating our cuticle oils behind the scenes and we are very proud to say all the work is done ourselves. “We are a small business that has created something wonderful for the industry. We both live and breathe this industry and the fact we have a brand that is being well received means the world to us both.” www.mypapillonbeauty.co.uk /mypapillonbeauty @mypapillonbeauty
Nail HQ Mark Taylor founded Nail HQ in April 2013 as he wanted to help consumers enhance the health of their natural nail in between salon visits. The Nail HQ range consists of core and essential nail treatments, which are vegan and cruelty-free. “There are 10 treatments in the core range; Cuticle Oil, Gel Effect Top Coat, Base Coat, Strengthener, Hardener, All In One, Growth, Bite Guard, Protect & Repair and Ridge Filler,” Mark comments. “The essentials include Cuticle Oil, Top Coat, Strengthener, Growth and Hardener. Nail HQ is designed, developed and manufactured in the UK. “The nail and self-care market is moving at a rapid pace – especially due to Covid-19 with clients having to take nailcare and self-care into their own hands,” Mark conveys. “We are looking at continuing to match with trends innovations that are ongoing and changing within the market.” www.soinvogue.com/brands/nail-hq
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/NailHQUK
@nailhq
NAILSCENE Sash Pro Tools Sashanie Gray created the Sash Pro range of tools in 2017, spurred by the desire to offer quality and affordable manicure tooling. A self-employed manicurist, she has worked across many channels of the beauty industry, from education to consultancy, working at beauty events for major global beauty brands, product development, mentorship and salon ownership. The line launched with three main tools, referred to as ‘The Besties.’ This includes a 14-JAW cobalt cuticle nipper, a double-sided square cuticle pusher, and a roundscooped cuticle pusher. “Sash Pro Tools are an extension of my heart and hard work. They were birthed in the classroom, tested in the salon and endorsed in my living room,” Sashanie comments. “This has been quite a journey. What people see as an instant result, took me nearly three years to launch. Within those three years, there were challenges with finding the right manufacturer, and then it took the last two years of testing and tweaking prototypes to achieve what we have today.” After being so focused on running her own salon, the pandemic gave Sashanie a chance to put all of her work and time into the product launch in April 2020. “The Covid-19 pandemic helped to pivot me from expert manicurist to manicuring tool product provider,” she smiles. “I am paying attention and listening to our customers and making changes accordingly. Our eyes and ears are open to opportunities to improve and best suit the needs of our customers.” www.sashaniegraynails.com
/Sashanie-Gray-PRO
@sashprotools
CutieOils Vicky Lucas-Smith launched CutieOils in March 2020 when her salon was forced to close as a result of the pandemic. “I’ve always had a passion for business and I love designing and creating,” she reveals. “Cuticle oil is such an essential part of the manicure service, so I wanted to bring out a range of scents that my clients couldn’t resist using to improve their gel manicures and aftercare.” The product range consists of cuticle oil pens in 10 delectable scents. Alongside the oils, the brand also launched the CutieTools collection, which includes nine manicure tools. Each product goes through around three rounds of trials before being added to the product range. “Coconuts About You cuticle oil is my favourite scent and the most popular with our customers,” reveals Vicky. “It reminds me of sunshine and holidays, something we are all missing right now.” Vicky wanted the packaging to make a bold statement yet have a cute girly vibe, so a contemporary look was created that is both pretty and professional for salon displays. “I love creating products in the unique CutieOil style and adding my personal touch to them,” enthuses Vicky. “The products brought to market are created with help from the feedback and ideas given by customers and ambassadors. I’ve been thoroughly taken aback by how much interest these products have received from therapists and their clients and I’m looking forward to growing the brand at a sustainable pace.” www.cutieoils.co.uk
/cutieoils
@cutieoils
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The business of
BEAUTY Nail expert, salon owner, educator & mentor, LIZA SMITH, shares her wisdom & advice to benefit your business
WHERE WILL THE INDUSTRY BE AT THE END OF 2021?
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he virus, lockdown and restrictions brought on by the pandemic shone a spotlight on weaknesses in many areas of all industries. The retail sector has been suffering for a decade as more people of all ages are shopping online. The success of free next-day delivery from Amazon and free returns from ASOS etc has made it too easy for us to not leave our houses. For a while, many of us (myself included), sat comfortably in the knowledge that our industry will thrive in the new online world. As our customers can’t buy our services online, they have to come to us, right? Well, then Covid-19 happened. Suddenly, our industry could not deliver its services and turnover became zero overnight. Some of us have great websites, but how many of us had an online shop or offered online paid consultations?
“We have to have an online presence, including a way for clients to buy from us outside of the salon.”
Next came the exorbitant cost of scaling up PPE and reducing our nail and pedicure stations to allow for social distancing. We lost our atmosphere, we couldn’t see each other smile and we couldn’t hug. If you work alone, you then felt even more alone. If you had a team, you had to split it into bubbles and didn’t see some team members for six months outside of a Zoom staff meeting.
These are the lessons I’ve learned and it’s time for the industry to learn from the collective experiences of Covid-19: • We have to have an online presence, including a way for clients to buy from us outside of the salon. Retail, consultations, Zoom lessons (how-to’s on a personal basis) are important. • We have to learn the language of our ideal customer avatar. Also, to know that the language can change. It took me a few months of a quiet diary to realise that instead of ‘glam’ and colour options, I had to talk about ‘self-care’ and caring for hands, skin and hair. If you suddenly see a drop in enquiries, look at your messaging. • Set up a WhatsApp group of your top spending clients. This focus group of my salon’s clients has been great, as they tell me what they want and how to sell it to them. • Do monthly profit and loss accounts. You need to know exactly where your money is coming from and where it is going. If you wait until you file your end of year tax return, it will be too late to spot any problems. www.bodylines.biz 84 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
• You are the sum of the five people you spend your time with or listen to. Choose those five people wisely. Avoid the ‘noise’ on social media of posts that ask a serious question and get 150 various replies. Choose your Facebook groups and mentors wisely. • Do three cashflow forecasts. One based on the 12-months of 2019, one based on 2020, and the best case scenario of 2021. This way you will have a best case and worse case scenario. Make your plans based on these. • Planning is crucial. Set yourself monthly goals based on your cashflow forecasts. Set yourself goals on how many clients you need to attract to achieve your goal. Set 90-day goals based on development, not finances. • Spend 90-minutes a day on your business; fivedays a week. Book the time into your diary or it will not happen. Do not spend any other time on your business outside of this 90-minutes. Communicating with clients or peers on social media is not included in this 90-minutes. It should be learning or implementing what you have learned.
/liza.smithnails
The industry as a whole has had to wake up to the realisation that there are many professionals out there that are under qualified and under prepared for any change or shift in the status quo. There were always going to be winners and losers in this, and a lot of it would not be based on fairness. Sadly, choosing to be your own boss will soon show you that fairness rarely has anything to do with success or failure. Legislation is on its way, but this will not be an easy ride for some in the industry. For too long, there has been an easy option of buying a small amount of products, doing some short courses and then continuing ‘education’ in Facebook groups. It became sadly all too obvious that those business models had zero security in them, and we, as an industry, have to embrace these individuals and take them into the real world of business. This means investing in good education, investing in ourselves, getting a mentor, and when there is a budget for it, getting a coach. In the past 12 months, I’ve listened and talked to many salon professionals and I’ve been trying to find ways to help pros with varying budgets. I will be launching a low-cost membership and a tiered entry level for all salon professionals that want to take the next steps in order to future-proof their business. Watch this space! @lizasmithnails
@lizasmithnails
Nailympia ®
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ANNOUNCEMENT
Due to lockdowns sweeping the globe... Entry & submissions now close at midnight 28.02.21 Your favourite nail competition is now online and you can enter until midnight on Sunday 28 February 2021! You’ve had the opportunity to compete in five Nailympia locations across the globe - now it’s time to compete from your home!
Register today at
NAILYMPIA.COM In association with @nailympiacompetitions @nailympia
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SCRATCH PADS Beauty in the community Step inside Plaster, a neutral & inclusive salon setup in London’s Crystal Palace with a focus on nailcare for its community KAT HILL REPORTS
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rowing up in south London, Zahra Beedassy was surrounded by a melting pot of culture – and an endless source of inspiration. “For me, selfexpression has always been the perfect way to realise your dreams while being authentically yourself,” she comments. “I opened Plaster to offer clients – irrespective of gender, identity, background or profession – a space in which they can be whoever they want when they step through our door.”
The Crystal Palace venue offers natural nail treatments and playful nail art designs. The local area was named after the Crystal Zahra Beedassy Palace Exhibition building and serves up a spectacle of independent businesses for visitors and residents. Its hilltop vantage offers sweeping views of London’s skyline, providing the ideal backdrop of the area’s stylish eateries and 86 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
shops full of vintage finds. Combined, it creates an eclectic and artistic community. “I had first-hand experience of growing up around Crystal Palace,” explains Zahra. “It fast became the place to be for young families and independent businesses, which was a massive difference to the area I knew when growing up. Although I had moved in when it was still a bit rough around the edges, I was lucky to see the benefits of the area before someone else snapped up my venue!” Zahra used the experience garnered from owning and running a lifestyle store to open Plaster in 2019. “Previously, I was lucky enough to have my own savings to open a store in 2017,” she explains. “The working capital allowed me to transition the business into a salon. “I was a teenager when I spawned a passion for doing my own nails. I decided to train as a nail technician in 2016 with the intention of opening my own salon. I had never worked in a salon
SCRATCHPADS or worked freelance, so when Plaster opened a few years later, I realised I had thrown myself in at the deep end.” Since opening its doors, the local area has welcomed the salon with the business gaining an increasingly loyal client base. “We fit into an area that thankfully supports local and small businesses,” Zahra smiles. “We offer something that wasn’t previously available in the area: vegan and cruelty-free nail treatments alongside on-trend nail art. Crystal Palace is a fast-developing scene and has seen a lot of interest from first-time home buyers and young working professionals, which has helped us gain attention and grow our client base.”
“Bright and fresh, wood panelling offers a warming touch and together, the carefully selected palette creates a calm and neutral space. The combination radiates professionalism and a caring ethos that can be instantly felt.” Creating an inclusive space Stepping into the salon, it is clear to see why it has received such a welcome. Bright and fresh, wood panelling offers a warming touch and together, the carefully selected palette creates a calm and neutral space. The combination radiates professionalism and a caring ethos that can be instantly felt. “I wanted to create a space that was aspirational,” states Zahra. “The salon upholds a minimal design, with touches of luxury through the brass taps and marble countertops. We were lucky that the space has high ceilings and lets in plenty of natural light. This caused me to gravitate towards quite a pared-back, industrial yet Scandinavian feel through a neutral palette. “I was also mindful not to be too serious in terms of design, so incorporated playful polka dots scattered across the floor-to-ceiling shop front windows. They make a real impact from the outside.” Zahra cites the pedicure area as her favourite spot in the salon. On a raised platform, two cushioned rattan chairs await clients, with dark stone pedicure bowls perfectly placed in front and filled by gleaming brass taps. It makes for an inviting corner in which to pause and enjoy the tranquillity of a pedicure appointment at the salon. “The elevated pedicure chairs offer the perfect seat in which to watch the world go by,” she smiles. “Carefully placed mirrors reflect the sky outside, too. This area was really important when thinking about light placement in the shop as it’s a space where clients can have a moment to themselves.” Conscious of the business’ future, Zahra ensured the décor was ready to adapt and evolve as the business grows. “Keeping our décor quite minimal lends itself well to change,” Zahra continues. “It can react easily to any new accents or elements we might decide to add. This allows us to ensure the space stays fresh for our clients. “There is a treatment bed downstairs, but at the moment our focus is very much on building our audience for nails. However, we are looking to expand the downstairs area of the salon this year.”
Nail services for all One of the salon’s focal points is the long, communal nail desk. Custom-made, the top features a cool marble pattern, while the dark steel legs add an industrial edge. Over this table, one of the salon’s >> team of three tends to the nails of clients with care and precision. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 87
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With a variety of natural nail treatments on offer, all the services remain in line with the salon’s ethos. “With our 100% vegan and cruelty-free products, we believe that looking and feeling good shouldn’t have to mean compromising on our ethics,” Zahra implores. “At a time when consumers are feeling more empowered than ever in the product choices they make, clients aligned with our ethos are able to experience this at Plaster. “We also think that self-expression doesn’t have to be a binary and beauty isn’t defined by sex, which is why our branding and treatments are gender neutral and available to everybody.” To follow through on this promise to clients, Zahra spent time carefully selecting the brands used within treatments. “We use Zoya Nail Lacquer and The Gel Bottle Inc,” she says. “Both brands have vegan and cruelty-free principles and the feedback our clients give us on the products is second to none. “There is also a range of specially developed in-house products and one which allows customers to take the Plaster experience home with them, with our shea butter infused Cherry Manicure Cream a firm favourite amongst our clients.” Zahra reveals that the Classic Plaster Gel Mani is the most popular salon service. It includes cuticle work, followed by the application of gel polish and a mini massage. “It’s a real treat that doesn’t take up too much time,” she comments. While there are plenty of other salons in the local area, Plaster shines by remaining true to its beliefs. “There are a lot of salons providing nail services locally, but none focus specifically on 88 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
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“Keeping our décor quite minimal lends itself well to change. It can react easily to any new accents or elements we might decide to add. This allows us to ensure the space stays fresh for our clients.” natural nails, nail art or using only vegan products,” agrees Zahra. “We know our core client base is usually a 25 to 45 year-old working professional female, but we are open to everyone, and that’s something we aim to make visible though our branding and marketing.”
Looking forward The future looks bright for this salon, thanks to Zahra’s spirit, ability to adapt and keen eye for opportunity. “During the first lockdown last year, we distributed gel removal kits to clients within our local community,” explains Zahra. “Now, we are currently developing our lifestyle range with a focus on products that embody self-care, such as our mini bath bombs and skin exfoliants. These, along with our Plaster cuticle oils, will launch in-store and on our online shop. “Currently only three of us work in the salon but we will be looking to expand in the near future,” continues Zahra. “I would love to see ‘small business’ orientated areas around London with a local Plaster to provide their beauty treatments and also to see our products being used in other salons. “We have plans to grow the Plaster family in the next few years; you might just catch us in your neighbourhood soon!” www.plasterbeauty.com /plasterbeauty @plasterbeauty SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 89
Mindful SCRATCHCOLUMNIST
ma ers
Mental health & wellbeing coach, DAVE HEFFERNAN, offers profound pointers to help you achieve a positive mindset
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ABOUT DAVE HEFFERNAN Dave Heffernan is a coach, speaker and mental health guru. He works with corporates and individuals to create awareness, end stigma and educate on areas surrounding mental health and wellness. Dave has launched programmes to support mental health in the workplace and to create positive, forward-thinking environments tin which employees can enjoy working in. Born in Salford, Dave dealt with extraordinary life issues including death, grief, abuse, homelessness and violence; but this didn’t hold him back. In fact, it created the momentum and passion that Dave spreads today. As an expert in mental health, Dave has moved from the raw, real-life issues that he’s faced, to helping other people face theirs.
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oodness me, is it February already? Where does the time go? The word February is taken from the Latin word ‘Februa’, meaning ‘to cleanse’. The Roman calendar month of Februarias was named for Februalia, a festival of purification and atonement. With this in mind, it’s my intention this month to help you cleanse your mind of all negative thoughts and help you atone for any mistakes you made in the previous 12 months and move forward. If we were to verbalise all the negative selftalk that we give ourselves each day and direct it at someone else, we’d most likely be arrested – so why is it that we think it’s OK to talk like this to ourselves?
It’s time to check in with ourselves regularly. This way, we can start to change the negative habits and conversations we have with ourselves and move them towards gratitude, love and positivity.
Setting your standards While we know what goals are and how to set them, not many people know what their standards are, or how to use them to their benefit. Without standards in place, it’s almost impossible to become the best ‘you’ that you can be. Once you’ve clearly defined the person you want to become, working towards your ideal self becomes much easier. Standards can include concepts such as: • What traits would you like to have? • How would you like to behave? • What would give you self-respect? • How would you like to treat yourself? • How would you like to treat others? • What sort of physical health would you like to have? By clearly stating your ‘self standards’, you set a clear precedent for yourself to follow. I recommend you make a list of your ‘self standards’ and refer back to it often as a reminder of what you’re trying to accomplish.
Loving language The way that we speak to and about ourselves
and the inner dialogue that we have is so important. A negative inner dialogue creates a harsh mental environment, so by changing the way you speak to yourself to one that is positive, you can improve the way you feel. Think about some of the phrases we use to speak to ourselves and look at alternatives… • ‘I have to’ – changes to – ‘I get to’ – try to feel grateful for opportunities and things to do. • ‘I can’t do this’ – changes to – ‘I still need to learn’ – because you are more than capable. • ‘I give up’ – changes to – ‘I’ll try again’ – allow yourself to take a rest, recoup and try again. • ‘I’m sorry’ – changes to – ‘Thank you’ – stop making excuses and be grateful.
Today I can… Here are some ways that you can change your mindset to have a more positive outlook on life. Today I can… • Complain about my health, or celebrate being alive. • Moan that it’s raining, or be joyful for all that grows from the rain. • Mourn everything I have lost, or eagerly anticipate what’s to come. • Resent the mess the kids make, or give thanks that I have a family. • Whine about the housework, or celebrate having a home. • Cry over the people who don’t care for me, or be happy being loved by those who do. As February is the month of love, I hope you’re feeling inspired to understand that self-love is the most important love of all. It’s not selfish to put yourself first. As a nail pro, you make your clients feel good and often forget to make time for yourself. Self-care can include personal hygiene, social activities, alone time, healthy diet, exercise, hobbies – anything that helps you feel better in yourself. Self-care shows how you look after yourself; self-love refers to the love and respect that you have for yourself. Think about what self-care means to you and make a list of how you want to treat yourself, where you want your life to go and make sure you take time each day to implement these into your life.
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NAILTALES
Creativity with a
cause A consequence of animal cruelty was the focus for an art installation made out of nail tips – the first of its kind to be exhibited at a museum in Denmark. CHLOE RANDALL finds out more…
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anish nail tech, Nadia Jenson, has captivated nailists and museum-goers alike with ‘Consequences’, the first art installation to be created out of nail tips and exhibited at the Statens Museum in Denmark. With a focus on the impact of animal cruelty, Nadia created a bloody mink using an assortment of nail tips. She then placed it in a small cage without a base, so it can only step on bars, demonstrating that there is too little space for the animal.
Getting to know Nadia After qualifying as a nail technician in February 2017, Nadia participated in various nail competitions around the world and has found continued success. Some of her achievements include earning 2nd place in the Fantasy Nail Art category at Nailympia London 2017 and reaching the top 24 in Nails magazine’s Next Top Nail Artist competition in 2018.
that she wanted to raise awareness about the issues of animal welfare, using her nail know-how to make it out of nail tips. “In Denmark, more than 300,000 mink were slaughtered during the pandemic as they carried a mutation of Covid-19. I have a background and interest in animal welfare and the environment, so I knew that I had to give my piece this focus,” reveals Nadia. “I want people to think about how we treat animals. The mink is only one of many. Now in this pandemic, it is time we stop all forms of industrial animal cruelty as we have so many other options.” Nadia believes that along with the death of thousands of mink, there are many further consequences of animal cruelty, which inspired the choice of the name for her work.
“This work is really important for the nail industry because, for the first time in Danish nail “Many do not consider mink as they are history, nails have not pets; so people and breeders have no been recognised relationship with these beautiful creatures,” she as art.” reveals. “What if it had been
When lockdown hit in March 2020 and Nadia was forced to close her salon, she began educating and supporting others and created the ‘Quarantinails’ Facebook group, in which daily nail art competitions were held.
Creativity in context
www.nanails.dk @nanailsdk NaNailsdk
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The global pandemic also gave Nadia the chance to reflect on other issues happening in society. When offered the chance to create a contemporary art piece for ‘The Goodiepal Collection’ at the Statens Museum, she had no doubt
cats that carried this mutation, then would all cats have to be killed? “This work is really important for the nail industry because, for the first time in Danish nail history, nails have been recognised as art. In Denmark, we have always been told ‘it’s just nails’ and have received little respect from the state and society for our profession,” Nadia adds. “However, with the great publicity around my work, people have gained a little more understanding and insight into our passion and for our crafts. Even technicians from the industry have gained more selfconfidence and now deem their work as art.”
NAILTALES
“I want people to think about how we treat animals. The mink is only one of many. Now in this pandemic, it is time we stop all forms of industrial animal cruelty as we have so many other options.” The Installation Creation
Nadia utilised large, small, wide, thin and short nail tips to create the muscles of the mink, while burning them to shape into curves. The nails and teeth of the mink were created with the tip of a stiletto nail and the eyes were formed from a small tip. The structure or ‘muscles’ of the mink were blackened before additional tips were applied, then some were painted with red acrylic.
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CHLOE RANDALL surfs the ‘net to uncover the hottest nail topics & tales on social media sites & get the scoop on celebrity beauty must-haves
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Team Scratch is always seeking out the hottest nail trends and single stripe manicures have been taking social media by storm. Whether the line is a block colour or a sparkly hue, this simplistic nail style is chic and sophisticated. We featured the look on our November Scratch cover, courtesy of Simone Radley using INK London products.
High profile nails
Session stylist, Michelle Humphrey created a number of nail looks for high profile clients pre-lockdown using Bio Sculpture and Magpie Beauty products. She crafted almond shaped nails with golden tips for photographer, Desiree Mattsson, and cherry themed nails for Rina Lipa, the sister of singer, Dua Lipa. Check out @nailsbymh on Instagram to see more of her work.
on ceysolom .com/sta Instagram
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Check out some striped nail styles that have caught our eye…
SELF-CARE SUNDAY With nail businesses closed, TV personality, Stacey Solomon, turned to press-on nails courtesy of @nailsbystephbeck and posted a pic on her InstaStory.
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LIFE HACK
Have you snagged your tights? Dab some clear nail polish onto a ladder or hole to stop it from spreading further.
Breast in show
Singer, Demi Lovato, embraced body positivity with a boob themed manicure courtesy of @natalieminerva. On a delicate tie-dye pink base, breasts of various sizes and shapes were hand painted onto the nails and shared by Demi on Instagram with the caption: ‘All boobies are beautiful’.
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Kim Kardashian has shown off a stylish nail look, wearing The Gel Bottle Inc’s Petal and Au Naturel hues, applied by Kim Truong aka @kimkimnails. Half sister Kylie also opted for a creamy shade from TGB; the chocolately Mocha hue.
Instagram .com/long hairpretty nails
Image courtes
y of YouTube:
Kylie Jenner
nner /kylieje m.com Istagra
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! T O P S B E L CE
Cinnamon spiced nails?
NAIL NO-NO
An Instagrammer has showed off a shocking DIY nail enhancement just for fun on the social media platform, gluing a plastic straw on the nail plate to create length.
Kristina Kouture Nails racked up some serious social media attention after experimenting with a nail finish using baby powder and cinnamon. To watch the video, scan here
Smart Nails
Lanour Beauty, a salon in Dubai, has unveiled the ‘smart nail.’ This nail style features a contactless microchip that stores a small amount of information. It can be used as a digital business card and for payments in the near future. The stored information can be read using a smart phone from a short distance and the information can be personalised and rewritten.
M o s t r e a d .. . An advice piece by awardwinning tech, Katie Barnes, about why clients shouldn’t use an at-home gel polish kit has been our most viewed post on the Scratch website so far this year. To check it out, scan here
SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 97
NAILDESIGNS
Why wear your heart on your sleeve when you could wear it on your nails? Nails by Christina aka @clw_nailartist.
A pink hue and rhinestones make for a perfect match in this pointed nail style by @thenailcompany_jadeyruh.
These short nails pack a punch with a bold red shade and foil hearts on feature nails. By @nailsby.skyla.
Fingernails in
Focus
Spread the love across nails this Valentine’s Day with CALLIE ILEY’S roundup of romantic reader designs
French tips get a Valentine’s Day makeover with shades of red, pink and peach, courtesy of @lucylondonbeauty.
We’re head over heels for this glistening scarlet design by Glasgow based tech, @affinitybeautyroom.
Charlotte of @nailchark finishes this Valentine’s design with gorgeous gold cuffs.
Are you going nude this Valentine’s Day? Various shades and hand painted art combine in this look by @oohlalanails.shrewsbury.
We’ve fallen in love with these pretty pink enhancements with an edgy square finish by @faithjamesnails.
Beth Manning of @neondrip_x shows love to her client’s fingertips with bold pink and red hues.
To be in with the chance of seeing your nail snaps on this page, share them with us on social media using #showscratch or email editorial@scratchmagazine.co.uk 98 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
BRUSH-ON COLOUR
S O A K- O F F G E L Cuccio Pro™ Brush on Colour Builder Gel now comes in 6 natural shades, to match the undertones of your skin. The convenient brush-on formula makes filling, building and shaping easy! BENEFITS: • Construct, fill, build & shape • Colour match to your skin colour • Perfect for camouflaging re-growth • Use with nail forms to sculpt an entire nail • Use over tips as overlays • Correct uneven nail beds
Easily Soaks Off!
SALON PRICE
£11 . 99
plus VAT
BARE NUDE
CPGL6233
BARE PINK
CPGL6243
NAKED PINK CPGL6253
GLEAMING ROSE CPGL6273
TAN GLOW
CPGL6283
www.cuccio.co.uk 0115 975 3656
FLAWLESS
NAILS AT LIGHT SPEED THE SPEED OF APPLYING PRE-SHAPED FULL COVERAGE SOFT GEL TIPS CAN’T BE BEAT, combined with the light speed curing of Gelish® Gel. You’ve never created nails with anything faster than this! MODEL IS WEARING: Gelish® Soft Gel Tips in MEDIUM ROUND
PRE-SHAPED, FULL COVERAGE
BREAK RESISTANT STRENGTH FROM ARCH TO FREE EDGE
SNAG-FREE, THIN CUTICLE CONTACT AREA FOR A SEAMLESS LOOK
FLEXI-FIT SOFT GEL CONTOURS TO THE NAIL PERFECTLY
File Name: Die Line:
12629-GEL-London-TipBox-Label-ShortRound-cg-v1 CAD#XXXXXXXX; Vendor - XXXXXXXXXX; Date: XX/XX/XX
Stock:
Permanent Adhesive Film
Line Screen: Proofs Required: Colors and Finishes:
150 Yes 2/0; PMS Cool Gray 10 C + PMS 218 C + Overall Gloss UV
Date:
August 24, 2020 5:56 PM
Die Line Does Not Print
PMS Cool Gray 10 C
File Name:
12276-GEL-London-TipBox-Label-cg-FNL
Die Line:
CAD#XXXXXXXX; Vendor - XXXXXXXXXX; Date: XX/XX/XX
Stock: Line Screen: Proofs Required:
Permanent Adhesive Film 150 Yes
Colors and Finishes:
2/0; PMS Cool Gray 10 C + PMS 2532 C + Overall Gloss UV
Date:
July 10, 2020 2:51 PM
Die Line Does Not Print
PMS 218 C
PMS Cool Gray 10 C
PRE-SHAPED WITH PRECISION, READY TO APPLY
PRE-SHAPED WITH PRECISION, READY TO APPLY
BREAK RESISTANT
STRENGTH FROM File Name: ARCH TO FREE 12276-GEL-London-TipBox-Label-cg-FNL EDGE WITH Die Line: TECHNOLOGY CAD#XXXXXXXX;TIP Vendor - XXXXXXXXXX; Date: XX/XX/XX Stock: Permanent Adhesive Film Line Screen: Line Screen: 150 Proofs Required: Proofs Required: Yes FLEXI-FIT Colors and Finishes: Proofs Required: Yes SOFT Colors and Finishes: 2/0; PMS Cool Gray 10GEL C + FOR PMS 7685 C + Overall Gloss UV Date: PERFECT SEAL Colors and Finishes: 2/0; PMS Cool Gray 10 C + PMS 7676 C + Overall Gloss UV Date: July 10, 2020 2:52MOST PM THE FASTEST AND PROFESSIONAL Date: July 10, 2020 2:51MOST PM THE FASTEST AND PROFESSIONAL
File Name:
12276-GEL-London-TipBox-Label-cg-FNL
Die Line: Stock: Line Screen:
CAD#XXXXXXXX; Vendor - XXXXXXXXXX; Date: XX/XX/XX Permanent Adhesive Film 150
File Name: Die Line: Stock:
NAIL ENHANCEMENTS EVER MADE
Die Line Does Not Print
PMS Cool Gray 10 C
PMS 7676 C
SHORT ROUND Item# 1168103 Made in Taiwan • Fabricado en Taiwán • Fabriqué à Taïwan © Nail Alliance - North America, Inc. • Brea, CA 92821 61-1168103-1 HM-12629-1
NAIL ENHANCEMENTS EVER MADE
Die Line Does Not Print
SNAG-FREE, THIN CUTICLE CONTACT AREA
(50 OF -11North PERFECT SIZES) © Nail Alliance America, Inc.FIT • Brea, CA 92821 (50 DE 11 TAMAÑOS DEHM-12276-2 AJUSTE PERFECTO) 61-1168098-1
FLEXI-FIT SOFT GEL FOR PERFECT SEAL
MEDIUM ROUND Item# 1168095 Made in Taiwan • Fabricado en Taiwán • Fabriqué à Taïwan © Nail Alliance - North America, Inc. • Brea, CA 92821 61-1168095-1 HM-12276-1
SNAG-FREE, THIN CUTICLE CONTACT AREA
LONG COFFIN
550
FULL COVERAGE 1168096 CLEARItem# SOFT GEL TIPS
Made in Taiwan • Fabricado en Taiwán • Fabriqué à Taïwan (50 OF -11North PERFECT SIZES) © Nail Alliance America, Inc.FIT • Brea, CA 92821 (50 DE 11 TAMAÑOS DEHM-12276-3 AJUSTE PERFECTO) 61-1168096-1
(50 DES 11 TAILLES DE COUPE PARFAITES)
Yes FLEXI-FIT SOFT 2/0; PMS Cool Gray 10GEL C + FOR PMS 3546 C + Overall Gloss UV PERFECT SEAL
July 10, 2020 2:52 PM
PMS 3546 C
PMS Cool Gray 10 C
SNAG-FREE, THIN CUTICLE CONTACT AREA
FULL COVERAGE CLEAR SOFT GEL TIPS (50 OF 11 PERFECT FIT SIZES)
(50 DE 11 TAMAÑOS DE AJUSTE PERFECTO) (50 DES 11 TAILLES DE COUPE PARFAITES)
(50 DES 11 TAILLES DE COUPE PARFAITES)
PRE-SHAPED WITH PRECISION, READY TO APPLY
PRE-SHAPED WITH PRECISION, READY TO APPLY
BREAK RESISTANT STRENGTH FROM ARCH TO FREE EDGE WITH TIP TECHNOLOGY
BREAK RESISTANT STRENGTH FROM ARCH TO FREE EDGE WITH TIP TECHNOLOGY
BREAK RESISTANT STRENGTH FROM ARCH TO FREE EDGE WITH TIP TECHNOLOGY
THE FASTEST AND MOST PROFESSIONAL NAIL ENHANCEMENTS EVER MADE
Permanent Adhesive Film 150
550
FULL COVERAGE 1168098 CLEARItem# SOFT GEL TIPS Made in Taiwan • Fabricado en Taiwán • Fabriqué à Taïwan
PRE-SHAPED WITH PRECISION, READY TO APPLY
THE FASTEST AND MOST PROFESSIONAL NAIL ENHANCEMENTS EVER MADE
BREAK RESISTANT STRENGTH FROM ARCH TO FREE 12276-GEL-London-TipBox-Label-cg-FNL EDGE WITH TECHNOLOGY CAD#XXXXXXXX;TIP Vendor - XXXXXXXXXX; Date: XX/XX/XX
Die Line Does Not Print
PMS 7685 C
PMS Cool Gray 10 C
MEDIUM COFFIN
550
PMS 2532 C
FLEXI-FIT SOFT GEL FOR PERFECT SEAL
FLEXI-FIT SOFT GEL FOR PERFECT SEAL
THE FASTEST AND MOST PROFESSIONAL NAIL ENHANCEMENTS EVER MADE SNAG-FREE, THIN CUTICLE CONTACT AREA
LONG STILETTO
550
FULL COVERAGE 1168097 CLEARItem# SOFT GEL TIPS
Made in Taiwan • Fabricado en Taiwán • Fabriqué à Taïwan (50 OF -11North PERFECT SIZES) © Nail Alliance America, Inc.FIT • Brea, CA 92821 (50 DE 11 TAMAÑOS DEHM-12276-4 AJUSTE PERFECTO) 61-1168097-1
(50 DES 11 TAILLES DE COUPE PARFAITES)
SNAG-FREE, THIN CUTICLE CONTACT AREA
550
FULL COVERAGE CLEAR SOFT GEL TIPS (50 OF 11 PERFECT FIT SIZES)
(50 DE 11 TAMAÑOS DE AJUSTE PERFECTO) (50 DES 11 TAILLES DE COUPE PARFAITES)
Georgie Smedley Group Phone: 01708 465900 VISIT OUR WEBSITE FOR MORE STYLES & PRODUCTS! Georgie Smedley Group Phone: 01708 465900 www.gsgroupuk.com | Email: info@gsgroupuk.com www.gsgroupuk.com | Email: info@gsgroupuk.com LONDON, HERTS & ESSEX 0800 014 8313 SOUTH WEST UK 01300 348645 gsgroupuk.com IRELAND 1 4295122 & GUERNSEY 499670 LONDON, HERTS & ESSEX00353 0800 014 8313 JERSEY SOUTH WEST UK 01534 01300 348645 IRELAND 00353 1 4295122 JERSEY & GUERNSEY 01534 499670
Made in the USA © 2020 Hand & Nail Harmony, Inc.
HM-12488
Made in the USA © 2020 Hand & Nail Harmony, Inc.
HM-10724
gsgroupuk.com