Scratch Magazine January 2022 by scratchmagazine

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Eighteen years of... ®

Issue 225 Managing editor Helena Biggs helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk Publisher Scott Derbyshire scott.derbyshire@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writers Chloe Randall chloe.randall@scratchmagazine.co.uk Emma Hobday emma.hobday@scratchmagazine.co.uk Rebecca Hitchon rebecca.hitchon@scratchmagazine.co.uk Editorial assistant Callie Iley callie.iley@scratchmagazine.co.uk Art editor Jessica Wilkie jess.wilkie@scratchmagazine.co.uk Group sales manager Ian Archbold ian.archbold@scratchmagazine.co.uk Accounts Lisa Ebbens lisa.ebbens@scratchmagazine.co.uk Co-founder Alex Fox Editorial/Advertising office 1 The Courtyard, Market Square, Westerham, Kent TN16 1AZ

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Images courtesy of Gelish/GS Group UK Shades shown are Miss Crawly Chic, All Eyes On Meena, Coming Up Crystal, Moon Theater Shine, Red Shore City Rouge & It’s Showtime! from the Gelish Sing 2 nail colour collection. Available via www.gsgroupuk.com

www.scratchmagazine.co.uk www.olympiabeauty.co.uk www.nailympia.com The publisher of Scratch magazine has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the information detailed in Scratch is correct at the time of going to print, and while every care is taken to avoid inaccuracies, the publisher does not accept responsibility for any errors or omissions from any information within this or previous editions. © 2022 SEED PUBLISHING LTD

COVER CREDITS Image courtesy of the HD Nail Artist Academy team, with photography by George Fairbairn, www.gfphoto.co.uk www.hazeldixonnailartistacademy.com www.hazeldixonnails.com /hazeldixonnails @hdnailacademy

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Contents JANUARY 2022

FEATURES 22 A Rise To The Top

Get to know the talented HD Nail Artist Academy team members, who showcase a united front via this month’s cover

28 What This Year’s Pantone Means For Nails & Beauty

Explore how to incorporate Veri Peri, the Color of the Year 2022, into nails, beauty & salon styling

36 Meet The Nail Bar Boys

Scratch chats to the stars of a BBC Three documentary about their success in the salon and on-screen

40 The Digital Beauty Revolution

Discover the increasing impact of technology on nail & beauty experiences & how it can support a client’s nail service

44 How To Step Up Your Footcare Service Refresh your knowledge of common footcare conditions & explore ways to manage & elevate a client’s treatment

52 Flexi Learning

A student of Sweet Squared’s Academy2 platform reveals her learning journey as she gets to grips with CND™ PLEXIGEL

60 Nail Styling Through The Ages

Find out when nail colour was first used & check out trends & changes from decade to decade

64 Exploring & Enhancing On Nail Safari

Animal magic meets nail education courtesy of a five-day event at a Cambridgeshire zoo; full of fun & fingernail styling

76 Atypical Artistry

An artist lends a hand to a nail brand to create avant-garde marketing images – with eye-catching results

90 Ready For Jelly?

Embrace the jelly (or ‘glass’) nail trend with Scratch’s pick of products & inspirational styles

92 Wellness-Boosting Work Initiatives

Check out top tips from two businesses striving to improve the wellbeing & happiness of beauty pros

REGULARS

10 18 20 30 32 42 54 56 58 70 72 74 78 80 82 84 88 96 98

Nail Nation The Hot List The Scratch Scoop Nailscopes The Force Of The Feds Scratch Stats Getting Down To Business Readers Gallery Notes From The Beauty Guru *NEW COLUMNIST Through The Keyhole Just Add Glitter *NEW COLUMNIST Industry Initiative Style With Sadie *NEW COLUMNIST Beauty In Numbers Business Matters Scratch Pads Brand Watch Nail Clippings Fingernails In Focus

Nail NATION

business

news & views

PRO10 BEAUTY TAKES OVER LCN NAIL & BEAUTY BRAND DISTRIBUTION IN THE UK

Covid-19: Government guidance updated for close contact services in England The rapid spread of the Omicron Covid-19 variant led to an update of the guidance for close contact services in England, published on 30 November. At the time of writing, the government has moved to Plan B which means that face coverings must be worn in premises that provide close contact services in England, unless officially exempt. The guidance includes freelancers and mobile workers, stating that both staff and customers should wear a face covering if such services are taking place in someone’s home. Contacts of individuals with a suspected or confirmed case of the Omicron variant must self-isolate, regardless of their age or vaccination status. Following the update, the NHBF clarified some of the details around mandatory face coverings in salons, commenting: “The new law only requires a face covering for staff (Type II face mask recommended), not visors or goggles, and clients can remove their mask for relevant treatments, as before. “However, it only applies to receptionists if there is no physical barrier or screen between workers and members. If there is a screen, then face coverings do not need to be worn. Enforcement action can be taken if staff are not behind a barrier or screen and are not wearing a face covering.” The NHBF also highlights that it is a legal requirement in England for close contact services to display a notice advising that face coverings must be worn unless a person is exempt. The notice must be displayed in a visible location. Failure to display could result in a £1,000 fine. www.gov.uk/guidance

Pro10 Beauty has taken over distribution of the LCN brand in the UK from The Edge Nails & Beauty. Spearheaded by Iain Wood (formerly of The Edge Nails & Beauty) as commercial director, and Annika Meek as client relationship director, Pro10 Beauty aims to Iain Wood provide beauty professionals with high calibre products and education to support their business. The duo is supported by Shelley Mason as LCN’s UK manager. LCN, a German brand launched from the Wilde Cosmetics GmbH portfolio in 1985, offers nail, hand, foot, body and spa products. “LCN’s product lines offer great solutions for an Annika Meek increasingly informed customer base,” comments Annika Meek. “We already have a great customer base enjoying the benefits of LCN products and we want to strengthen the relationship our customers have with the brand Shelley Mason to ensure we do the best we possibly can as a supplier to support.” The focus of Pro10 Beauty in the first quarter of 2022 is to enhance LCN’s prominence in the UK market. “We have a lot of exciting ideas and projects lined up and look forward to sharing them with our customers,” Annika concludes. www.lcnuk.co.uk

Global use of virgin plastic by cosmetics brands set to fall by 20% by 2025 Virgin plastic use by leading global brands and retailers peaked in 2021 and is on track to fall by almost 20%, according to research by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation (EMF) and the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP). Virgin plastic is defined as plastic resin that has been newly created without any recycled materials. The 2021 Global Commitment Progress Report, published annually by the environmental charity and UN programme, estimates that brand and retailer commitments to reduce virgin plastic consumption will avoid eight million tonnes of virgin plastic being produced each year by 2025. www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org / www.unep.org

NAIL & BEAUTY BITES SLN Training Academy has announced Scarlett Senter as its head of education and is looking to grow the educator team. For more information, visit www.slntrainingacademy.com 10 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Layla Tourh, founder of Beauty Boss HQ, has launched the ‘Take Action Club.’ This £10 monthly membership is designed to help owners of beauty-related businesses improve their productivity and help them ‘take action’ to grow their income. www.thebeautybossacademy.co.uk

Kupa Inc has welcomed Mia Do as its master educator. A beauty therapist since 2004, Mia Do says that the industry chose her as much as she chose it, and growing up with educators in her family instilled her with a desire to teach. www.kupainc.com

Available from all leading wholesalers or www.purenails.co

business

Nail NATION British Beauty Council secures government deal for commercial tenants in beauty sector

NAF! Stuff & Elemis sign up to initiative to reduce beauty bottles in landfill Beauty brands including Elemis, Unilever and NAF! Stuff have signed up to a circular economy initiative called Re, launched by Jo Chidley, co-founder of natural and sustainable personal care brand, Beauty Kitchen. Re aims to prevent more than 100 million bottles from going to landfill in three years. The initiative invites customers to return empty packaging with the ‘Re’ logo to be washed and put back into the supply chain to be reused, allowing brands across multiple sectors, as well as consumers, to work towards eliminating single-use plastic packaging of fast-moving consumer goods (FMCG); products that are sold quickly and at a relatively low cost. Re plans to use Smart Bottles, marked with unique trackable assets and made of steel, glass and next-generation washable plastics, alongside supply chain tracking and analytics, in order to increase awareness of consumer behaviour and its impacts. Refill stations will also be built through the initiative, allowing consumers to fill Smart Bottles with a product of their choosing or buy pre-filled products in reusable packaging. They will then be able to return Smart Bottles for washing at interactive return points. www.returnrefillrepeat.com

BUSINESS VENTILATION FUND OPENS FOR APPLICATIONS IN SCOTLAND The Scottish government’s Business Ventilation Fund is open for applications until 31 March 2022, or when funds are exhausted – whichever occurs first. The fund will help small and medium-sized businesses improve ventilation and air quality in their premises to help reduce the spread of coronavirus, by allowing them to claim back costs to improve ventilation of up to £2,500. To be eligible for funding, businesses must be a small or medium-sized enterprise, be in an eligible sector, have physical premises and pay non-domestic rates. Support will initially target high-risk settings where people come into close proximity, such as beauty salons. Examples of work to improve ventilation and air quality that could be claimed through the scheme include installation of carbon dioxide monitors, repairs to windows and vents, installation of air filters/purifiers and installation of monitoring equipment. For more information, visit www.gov.scot

NAIL & BEAUTY BITES Stress Check Kind Hands by This Works was awarded the Best New Hand & Nail Product/Range acolade at he 2021 COPRA Awards, which celebrates cosmetics and perfumery brands. www.copra.org 12 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

The British Beauty Council has worked with the UK government to secure a deal for commercial tenants within the beauty sector in England and Wales, once the current eviction protection ends 25 March 2022. The deal sees new regulations and a Code of Practice introduced to resolve the remaining commercial rent debts accrued during the pandemic, as well as measures to protect commercial tenants from debt claims. Such measures include County Court Judgements (CCJs), High Court Judgements (HCJs) and bankruptcy petitions and mean that along with the protection from eviction that stands until March 2022, landlords will be unable to go after tenants for debt claims, giving businesses that had to close due to Covid-19 and accumulated debt, time to get back on their feet. Through its lobbying, the British Beauty Council has ensured that businesses within the beauty industry will qualify within the eligibility criteria for arbitration in the government’s Commercial Rent (Coronavirus) Bill. The Bill establishes a legally binding arbitration process for commercial landlords and tenants who have not reached an agreement. Prior to this arbitration process coming into force in March 2022, a Code of Practice has been released to provide landlords and tenants with a clear process for settling outstanding debts and to help with their negotiations. www.britishbeautycouncil.com

Smart Group launches device to help techs take first steps into hair removal services The Smart Group has unveiled the Smart Diode PRO, an addition to the Smart Diode family of laser hair removal devices. Compact and powerful, the device can be used on all skin types and is certified medical grade with cooling systems to deliver pain-free treatments at speed. A spokesperson for the company comments: “With suggested treatment pricing from as little as £19 a session, the Smart Diode PRO can generate operators over £230 per hour. “There are two investment opportunities; The SMART Start 3 which is £50 a month for the first three months, followed by a four year interest free payment plan at £323 + VAT per month. The Smart PAYG Rental Programme requires an initial payment (20% of equipment value) and operators will get a full Smart Diode PRO package including the laser system, training and treatment insurance.” For more information, visit www.the-smartgroup.co.uk

The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) has scooped the gold award for Best Communication(s) During Covid-19 at the Covid Response Awards, which acknowledge the resourcefulness and tenacity shown by corporate and non-commercial organisations in response to the pandemic. www.nhbf.co.uk

Eternals Gel Polish Collection Our beautiful Eternals collection is a perfect glittery option, with a colour range to complement our Chorus Gel Polish collection. Consisting of 6 colours that have colour changing flakes and super reflective glitter in each bottle, these will catch everyone’s eye this winter and beyond. Truly a must have colour collection with colours that are truly Eternal.

Ether

Infinite

For All Time

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support@nailchemy.co.uk Nailchemy® is a registered trademark.

Timeless

Eternity

Akashic

Nailchemy

Create Magical Nails

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pleasure

Nail NATION Fave Scratch cover of 2021: REVEALED! Throughout December, you voted for your favourite Scratch cover of 2021, and scooping the top spot was the October image courtesy of Nails By Annabel using Glitterbels products, with a third (33%) of votes. In second place with 25% of votes came the June cover image courtesy of Nailchemy and Scarlett Senter, and in third place was the November image by Lucy Allen (@supernaturalnails), which also took the top title in The Great Scratch Shoot Out competition last autumn.

1st

2nd 3rd

In-person sales of beauty products soar by 9% in 13 weeks Beauty purchases on the high street increased by 9% in the 13 weeks leading up to the end of October 2021, compared to the same period in the previous year, according to a report by market research company, The NPD Group. The company also discovered that online beauty sales declined by 6% when compared to the same 13 weeks in 2020. Fragrance has seen a rise in popularity, as retail store sales accounted for 62% of total sales weight, which increased to 68% when considering fragrance alone. The growth of fragrance has been observed since the beginning of the year, as it grew 14% during the period of January 2021 to the end of October 2021. “It’s great news to see consumers returning to the high street and visiting beauty counters,” comments Emma Fishwick, account manager at NPD UK Beauty. “It demonstrates the continued importance of beauty consultants, and it enables you to touch and smell products while also embracing the social aspect of retail therapy.” www.npd.com 14 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

CND™’s Scentsations range gets a slick makeover CND™’s popular hand and body lotions in the Scentsations range have had a makeover – with the addition of fresh scents and hand washes. All original scents boast upgraded packaging. Use within a mani, pedi or body care service to elevate your client’s experience – and retail their favourite scent so they can maintain this experience at home. Choose from the likes of Mango & Coconut, Citrus & Green Tea and limited edition Strawberry & Prosecco. The CND™ Scentsations hand & body lotions are available in 245ml and 975ml sizes and contain Aloe Barbadense Leaf Juice to moisturise, soothe and condition while vitamins A and E help to aid skin health. The 390ml hand washes deeply cleanse the skin with a delicately scented blend of fragrances that protect and moisturise. Containing ingredients of natural origin, the washes are vegan-friendly, suitable for all skin types and enriched with jojoba to cleanse skin without over-drying. Available via www.sweetsquared.com

Free challenge helps to attract more clients via social media Sarah Hartley, founder of Blossom Tree Social, has revealed the More Ideal Clients Challenge to help you attract your ‘ideal’ clients via social media. Signing up to the challenge will help you: • Create a client persona • See why a client persona is so important • Discover your ideal client • Prepare and research “If you’re attracting the wrong clients on social media or you’re not sure what to post to attract your ideal client, the free challenge is perfect,” Sarah comments. “Those that sign up will receive an email every day for five days with instructions, including videos and resources to help create a client persona. At the end of the five days, pros will be clearer about who their ideal client is, so they can create social content to suit.” To sign up to the More Ideal Clients Challenge, visit www.subscribepage.com/moreidealclients

American singer-rapper, Machine Gun Kelly, has launched a nail polish line inspired by self-expression and creativity for all, whatever their age or however they identify. Named UN/DN LAQR – a simplified version of the words ‘undone’ and ‘lacquer’, the collection of shades is based not on seasons or nail trends, but on core colours that can be mixed and matched to create statement nail art. All shades are vegan-friendly and the artist hopes that these statement looks will start conversations that his introverted fans can get involved in, helping them to gain confidence. “I don’t like to just stop at clothes when it comes to expressing who I am. Nail polish serves as a true vessel of self-expression – I can express myself one way today and do it all again tomorrow with something different,” said Machine Gun Kelly in a statement. “When I do my nails, that’s me wearing my own thoughts and making a statement. To me, polish is not just a colour, it’s an intention. Every colour has a purpose.” Making up UN/DN LAQR’s debut collection are 10 colours, ranging from neutrals and soft pastels to bold, popping hues and a black. Alongside these are five top coats, both in matte and gloss formulas. Also in the collection are eight curated trio sets, three polish kits and ‘ two detail brushes. www.undnlaqr.com ‘

Image courtesy of Pinterest

Pinterest predicts 2022’s hottest nail trend

Pinterest has unveiled its beauty trend forecast for 2022, Pinterest Predicts, revealing that landscape-style nail designs, or what the company calls ‘Nailscapes’, will take prominence. This is based on global Pinterest data, sourced between October 2019 and September 2021, that shows trending search terms related to nails, particularly among millenials. ‘Galaxy nail art’ saw a 115% rise in searches, while searches for ‘desert nails’ rose by 105%. ‘Aurora nails’ searches rose by 4%, ‘ocean nails acrylic’ by 5% and ‘geode nail art’ by 2%. Pinterest also predicts that Brazil is one of the key countries where landscape nail designs will take off, with trending search terms in the country including ‘blue galaxy nails’, ‘desert terracotta nails’ and ‘mermaid nails’. Other beauty predictions from the report include a rise in bejewelled looks, such as pedicures with rhinestones and crystal eye make-up, big hair styling techniques for those with afro-textured hair, including space buns and high-puff hairstyles, and daring cuts, with ‘bob cut wigs’ and ‘shaved head dye designs’ being searched for more. www.business.pinterest.com

Huge search increase for ‘men’s nail polish’ after celeb launches According to research conducted by Love The Sales, there has been a huge rise in searches for ‘men’s nail polish’ since the launch of two male celebrity nail polish lines. When Machine Gun Kelly launched UN/DN LAQR on 2 December 2021, searches for ‘men’s nail polish’ increased by 420% overnight. In addition, in the hours following the launch, there was a 137% increase for ‘male beauty products’ and an 85% increase in searches for ‘men’s make-up.’ When Harry Styles released his Pleasing brand on 17 November 2021, demand for ‘men’s nail varnish’ increased by 512% overnight. The brand also caused an overall shift in demand of 393% for ‘men’s makeup’ including lip serums, foundation and concealer. www.lovethesales.com

NAIL & BEAUTY BITES Instagram has announced that it is bringing back its chronological feed option. Adam Mosseri, head of Instagram, said that the changes are to stop user experiences from being ‘manipulated by algorithms.’

Global colour authority, Pantone, has revealed Veri Peri as its Color of the Year 2022. Explore what this means for the nail and beauty realms on page 28.

Commuters’ newspaper, Metro, featured CACI’s Hand Rejuvenation treatment as ‘a handy new way to look youthful’ in its Fit List, while London title, Kensington & Chelsea Review, chose it as its ‘Winter Wellness Favourite’. www.caci-international.co.uk

Magnetic Nail Design has unveiled Fiber Coat Gel, which features fiber particles to support a tough yet flexible nail structure. It can be buffed to a high shine and is available in five shades via www.magneticnails.uk

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Instagram.com/harrystyles

The Great British Hair & Beauty Awards celebrated the success of cosmetic companies, stylists, hair and beauty businesses, academies and clinics last autumn at a glamorous event in Heathrow. Hosted by Creative Oceanic and voted for by the British public, the event saw Luton’s Aviva Day Spa & Beauty Academy scoop awards for Training Academy of The Year and Beauty Salon of the Year. The business, founded in 2008 by Janan Saher, then went on to win the award for Salon of the Year. “Receiving three nods at The Great British Hair & Beauty Awards has been my proudest moment to date,” comments Saher. “The past two years have been challenging, so this recognition after such a tough time in business was just what the team needed. It’s a reminder that we are doing what we love well and that hard work does pay off. “The awards evening featured many happy tears all round. Our business growth and desire to thrive and survive even during the toughest of times has been evident. It certainly was a night to remember and a great end to 2021, with the whole team feeling extremely happy, motivated and uplifted for the year ahead.” www.avivadayspa.co.uk / www.creativeoceanic.co.uk

Instagram.com/undn_laqr

MACHINE GUN KELLY LAUNCHES NAIL POLISH LINE ‘FOR ALL’

Nail academy scoops trio of accolades at The Great British Hair & Beauty Awards

HEMA FREE Gel Polish

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NEWPRODUCTS

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The GelBottle FoilX Metallic Foil £5.95 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com Add a striking metallic finish to fingernails with one of the six new metallic foils from TheGelBottle Inc. Choose from the likes of antique-toned Gold and delicate Pewter, available in a 100cm strip. Apply using FoilX Foil Gel.

Artistic Nail Design Chrome Pens £6.95 + VAT each www.louellabelle.co.uk Create out-of-this-world nail styles using these six chrome effect nail art pens that afford a reflective effect when used over gel polish. Simply apply Artistic Chrome Gloss (£17.95 + VAT) over your final coat of gel polish colour and cure. Next, use the Chrome Pen colour as desired and finish with a final coat of Chrome Gloss.

List THE HOT

NSI FlexiGloss £11.95 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk This non-yellowing, tack-free and hema-free top coat adds a high-shine, flexible finish to gel polish manis and L&P acrylic enhancements. It cures in 30 seconds under the NSI LED light and there’s no need to wipe after curing, as it leaves a tackfree yet glossy finish.

Scratch scours the industry for the latest nail & beauty products to captivate clients & lend a helping hand to your services

Bio Sculpture Full Cover Tips Box £140 + VAT www.renewbeauty.co.uk Using soft gel adhesion technology, Bio Sculpture’s Full Cover Tips are ultra-thin at the cuticle area with a flexible tip. Offering comfort and strength, application and removal is speedy and straightforward and styles include Stiletto Long, Square Medium and Almond Medium.

18 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Goddess Peach Cuticle Oil £3.99 + VAT www.goddessemporium.co.uk Made for pros by pros, the Goddess Emporium product range has welcomed this peach-scented cuticle oil to promote healthy, strong nails at home and at the nail desk. The 14ml oil is available individually or in a pack of 10.

INK London Chunky Chameleon Additions collection £26.67 + VAT www.inknails.com Glitter lovers – rejoice, as the Chunky Chameleon Additions collection features nine large flake mixed glitters to add dazzle to any nail look. The multi-tonal glitters include Harriet, a silver/pink/ green, and Shannon, a pink/lavender/gold. The 8g Chameleon Glitters are available individually for £3.33 + VAT.

NEWPRODUCTS

Nailchemy Diamond Dust Gel Polish £11.99 + VAT www.nailchemy.co.uk Shimmer and sparkle into 2022 with Diamond Dust, a clear gel polish packed with reflective glitter. Apply over your client’s chosen Nailchemy gel polish shade to elevate a nail look and then apply top coat for a shiny and eye-catching finish.

Glitterbels Hema-Free Gel Polish £7.99 + VAT each www.nailsbyannabel.co.uk Enhance your nail colour collection with your pick from the 80 hema-free gel polish hues from Glitterbels. Available in 8ml bottles, the shades are easy to apply and offer smooth application and highly pigmented coverage in as little as one coat. Standout shades include Custard Mustard, a mustard yellow, and Champagne Sparkle, a glittering gold.

CND™ PLEXIGEL Colour Builder Gels £19.95 + VAT each www.sweetsquared.com Build and offer strength and natural-looking colour in one with a choice of five delicate Builder shades from CND™. Porcelain, Oat Milk, Soft Blush, Spiced Taffy and Milky Mauve can help save on service time; enhancing and providing colour in one formula for up to three weeks’ wear.

Halo Gel Polish Chocolate Box collection £15.50 + VAT www.purenails.co Indulge clients with this delectable selection of gel polish shades from Halo Gel Polish. The Chocolate Box range features dark chocolate Decadence, warm brown Indulgence and caramel-coloured Temptation. Offering a high gloss finish, these shades are highly pigmented and offer up to 14 days’ wear.

Cally Cosmetics Cally Cuticle Oil Pens £40 inc VAT www.callycosmetics.co.uk These handbag-friendly cuticle oils are ideal retail items to help clients keep cuticles hydrated and nails healthy in between appointments. The full collection includes vegan-friendly 3ml pens in Orange, Watermelon, Strawberry, Aloe Vera and Cherry.

Salon System Naturalash LashLUX Extension Effect Lashes in 007 & 008 £4.95 + VAT each. Available from wholesalers nationwide. Impress clients with the instant volume and texture of lash extensions but in a speedy time frame with these mink-style lashes. Choose from a textured ‘Russian’ effect or the classic, tapered look. These C-curled lashes serve up a great retail opportunity too, as adhesive is included for clients to apply at home.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 19

p o o c s

SCRATCHSOCIAL

THE SCRATCH

Top (L-R): Helena Biggs, Chloe Randall, Emma Hobday Bottom (L-R): Jess Wilkie, Callie Illey, Rebecca Hitchon

The Scratch team offers an insight into its antics & unveils events & products from the nail & beauty realms

out Out and ab

In the

MAIL...

News & features writer, Rebecca, and ed itorial assistant, Callie, headed to Islington to pa rty with the HotPatch team and mark the space-renting platform’s second annivers ary. HotPatch is an ideal resourc e for salon owners with a de sk or room to rent or techs seeking a workspace. Pa rty-goers listened to live m usic at the Bubba Oasis roof top terrace, one of the platfo rm’s ‘patches’.

Check out the nail & beauty goodies in Scratch’s postbag this month…

We love trying out products from up-and-coming brands, so were delighted when ASHE London, a vegan nail polish subscription company, sent us its AW21/22 collection. Find out more about ASHE London on page 88 and discover subscription options at www.ashelondon.com.

The team at Decléor sent its Daily Hand Wash Scrub, which has a 99% naturalorigin formula. It’s enriched with rosemary essential oil and walnut powder to gently exfoliate hands and is an ideal in-salon or retail item. Available via www.decleor.co.uk.

What we’re wearing... Helena’s twinkling nail style comes courtesy of Jennifer Marsh (@justmenailsandbeauty) using Champagne Sparkle from the Glitterbels hema-free gel polish range.

Art editor, Jess, paid a visit to Hazel Martin of @nailcreationsbyhazel, choosing mint green hue V102 by The GelBottle Inc with a rose gold cuff in Pink Champagne from the Akzentz Gel Play Glitter range.

Chloe opted for a classic French manicure when she visited Shian Nails, created by resident tech, Leon Lester (@nails_by_leon) using The GelBottle Inc products.

20 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

g ed managin Glitterbels invit ch un la e th , to editor, Helena ma-free gel he its of rty pa an, at The Sherid polish range by d Hoste Manchester. bel unders, Anna Glitterbels fo ees nd te at innis, and Elliott Mag m fro e ng ra e th t learned abou rli ation, Cha head of educ t to try out go d an , Jepson at nail desks. the products team also ls be The Glitter s to of its nail desk gifted seven se of ur co e th er attendees ov the day.

Scratch’s news and features writer, Chloe, paid a visit to Dalstonbased salon, Shian Nails. She received a stunning mani at the space and met its mascot; a sausage dog called Pudd ing . Turn to page 84 to read all abou t Chloe’s visit.

ONLINE

SECOND EDITION

E N ! LI N D SIO EA N D TE EX

Nailympia ®

Enter the world’s biggest nail competition from the comfort of your salon! Registration is open until:

30/01/2022

Submit your entries before:

31/01/2022

Awards take place online:

18/02/2022

Simply go to:

NAILYMPIA.COM 13 fantastic competition categories to choose from including:

In association with @nailympiacompetitions

@nailympia

COVERSTORY

A rise to the

TOP

They’ve scooped three Scratch Stars Awards & entered the Hall Of Fame, & now the HD Nail Artist Academy team has landed its first front cover as a collective. HELENA BIGGS unravels the meaning behind it & gets to know each pro… 20/21 WINNER

azel Dixon is a name synonymous with talent and creativity. The Thetford-based nail stylist has been astounding the global nail sector with extreme nails and clever artistry since 2006 and scooped countless accolades, including the Scratch Stars Ultimate Mixed Media Artist and Ultimate Nail Stylist awards, owing to her trio of wins in each category. A distributor and founder of professional nail brand, HD Pro Nails, Hazel collated an expert educator team for her independent training centre, HD Nail Artist Academy, five years ago. This talented team of pros, offering Hazel’s education programme nationwide, is emulating her success, having won three consecutive Scratch Stars Awards for Nail Team of the Year and creating a stunning image for the cover of this month’s Scratch. “I had been running my own education programme for a number of years before I founded the HDNA Academy team,” explains Hazel. “I had met so many like-minded and passionate educators on my nail journey and thought it would be great to amass a team to deliver the high quality nail education that I pride myself on across the UK. “As a team, we are passionate and dedicated to raising standards in our industry by delivering cutting-edge courses to both experienced and new nail technicians. It’s our priority that students finish our courses feeling confident and informed, and we lead by example. Not only do we teach our students professionalism, knowledge and skills, but we encourage them to be the best they can be – both individually and as part of a team. “Our ultimate goal is to help build a community of well-rounded, confident and well educated techs to support the future of our industry. We truly believe in working together and not against one another to deliver an education programme that goes above what is expected.”

TEAM TALK: Fereida Lydiate

Fereida journeyed into the nail industry 24 years ago after completing a hair and beauty course at college. She met Hazel in 2013 when they were both judging a nail competition and became her first educator in 2016, after quickly realising that their goals and passions were in sync. “I love working with a team that shares the same values,” Fereida comments. “Creating and building the nails for the cover was so much fun. Each team member hones a different skill and all of our ideas fell into place for the cover shoot. I love the finished result.” @fereidalydiate

22 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

COVERSTORY

TEAM TALK: Karen Newman

Karen joined the HD Nail Artist Academy education team in October 2016 after meeting Hazel at a trade show. “We shared a passion for the industry and a goal to raise standards, and I love that we do this through training,” Karen comments. “Our education never stands still; we are always progressing and never compromise on what’s best for students.” @karennewmannails

Talent spotting Hazel met the members of her award-winning team at trade shows and nail events, and via training classes and competitions. “Each has entered the industry at a different point in their lives,” she explains. “Some come from business backgrounds, some are mothers, some are beauty therapists – but each can transfer their skills and experiences to the nail industry to support the needs of students.” The recruited educators each own successful salon businesses alongside providing training, and have a number of awards and competition accolades behind them. “This demonstrates that not only are we each dedicated and successful individually, but we work hard to achieve our goals,” Hazel adds. “I firmly believe that this inspires our students to achieve the same high standards. We educate from experience; not just a textbook.”

Testing times While the pandemic brought face-to-face education to a temporary halt, the team kept spirits high via technology, and these methods and this dedication were applauded by the Scratch Stars judges. “We kept in constant contact throughout the restrictions via WhatsApp, phone calls and video calls,” Hazel explains. Not a day went by when I didn’t speak to a member of the team. “Even out of lockdown, many of the team members were subject to local restrictions which prevented them from travelling, so we adapted accordingly. As team leader, I felt it was imperative for us to continue to share time together outside of ‘work’ as we did pre-pandemic. We hosted video chats and virtual catch-ups. “We are not only work colleagues who share the same passion and ethos, but we are great friends who share common morals and family values. The pandemic has taught all so much about ourselves and our industry; we have gone through this together and made memories we won’t ever forget.”

Together we shine It was last autumn when Kym Moody, HD educator for Norfolk & Hertfordshire, approached Scratch with an exciting concept for a front cover. Still reeling from the excitement of scooping a third Scratch Star for Nail Team of the Year in July 2021 and thus entering the Hall Of Fame, the collective wanted to showcase their success through a visual. “We sought to create an image to showcase our unity, and the position of the hands represents how sticking together as a team has helped us through the trials of the pandemic,” Hazel explains. The nail styles, ranging from salon-friendly at the base to extreme nails at the top of the image, showcase the diversity of skill within the team and uses for the variety of products in the HD Pro Nails range. “I gave the team a theme, we collated our ideas and discussed colour themes,” Hazel continues. “Like many others, we had been through dark days but can now see the light at the end, so we opted for a monochrome palette to represent dark times and a brighter future.”

STAR QUALITY

“The team and I were overcome with joy when we were announced as winners of the Nail Team of the Year award for the third year running at the Scratch Stars Party last July,” reveals Hazel. “The 12 months prior had been particularly difficult as we couldn’t get together in person, and adapting to lockdowns was a struggle. We are such a sociable, hands-on team that delight in each other’s energy but we adapted well, and were so happy to reunite for the first time in nearly two years on the awards night. “We are a small team and were up against some tough competition, however I am so proud of every single educator; of how they have overcome adverse situations and supported one another. Through the pandemic, we gained a better insight and understanding into how each of us works and manages different situations and have used this to adapt and improve our businesses. The experience has brought us all closer and helped build a greater rapport.”

TEAM TALK: Kayley Cairns

Kayley entered the nail industry in 2010 and found a love for advanced artistry and nail shapes on meeting Hazel. In 2017, she was offered the opportunity to join the HDNA Academy team and loves that each member shades the same ethos and values. “As a result, we’re all great friends,” Kayley comments. “To have our success recognised at the Scratch Stars Awards was amazing as it meant that the judges see in us what we see in each other.” @nailykayley

TEAM TALK: Catriona Leith

“Ever since I began my nail career in 2008, I have wanted my work to appear on a Scratch front cover,” Cat reveals. “It is a huge personal achievement – and a dream come true. To have achieved it with the HDNA Academy team makes it even better!” The talented tech met Hazel on the competing circuit in 2011 and followed her career. When her friend, Corey Stockwell, became an educator for Hazel covering Northampton, she put Cat’s name forward for Cambridgeshire, knowing she was a fan of Hazel’s work. Cat completed educator training and joined the HDNA Academy team in May 2019. “I love being a part of this team,” Cat continues. “I feel as though I have found my ‘home’ in the nail industry. We really are a family; there are no egos or heirachy and we each bring something unique to the nail table.” @thenailstudiocb

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 23

COVERSTORY

THE PHOTO SHOOT THE TEAM

Hazel Dixon – owner, director & Norfolk educator Fereida Lydiate – head educator & Manchester educator Kayley Cairns – Essex educator Kym Moody – Norfolk & Hertfordshire educator Catriona Leith – Cambridgeshire educator Corey Stockwell – Northampton educator Karen Newman – Scotland educator (Inverness) Lisa Johnson – Doncaster educator Sarah Davey – Suffolk educator Danielle Cragg – Wales educator (Prestatyn) George Fairbairn – Photographer

PREP & PLANNING

All educators received a mood board prior to the photo shoot and they were invited to put forward ideas and nail designs. Hazel worked with head educator, Fereida Lydiate, to create a plan for the shoot, including who would create each nail style, how long they would take and what products would be needed. To ensure as many people as possible could be involved in the shoot, it was held at the HD annual educator training event.

ON-SET ANTICS

Hazel and Fereida put together mini teams based on their plan to complete each set of nails in a dedicated work area. “Some of the nails took considerably longer than others, so team members who had finished then went on to help others,” Hazel explains. “Once the models’ nails were ready, the team practiced a variety of hand poses to see which would work best, while photographer, George Fairbairn, set up and tested the lighting for the shoot.” Hazel admits that the biggest challenge was the number of hands in the image, as it was tricky to keep the bodies of the models out of shot, while their hands stayed in the same position. Hazel laughs: “There were many interesting poses – and a few arm pits in faces!”

TEAM TALK: Sarah Davey

Sarah’s journey into nails started when she had her first child 23 years ago. It quickly turned from a hobby into a passion and she is the newest member of the HDNA Academy team. “Everyone has made me feel so welcome and I really enjoyed the photo shoot,” she explains. “It was fascinating to watch a concept become a reality.” @thenailcabinipswich

Nails by Karen Newman, Sarah Davey & Lisa Johnson for Karen Newman

Products used: • HD Flex It! Base & Builder Gel • HD Full Cover Eeeze Soft Gel Tips • HD The One in Liquorice (base, colour & no wipe top coat gel polish in one) • HD Shine It! No Wipe Top Coat

24 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

TEAM TALK: Kym Moody Kym completed her first nail course 28 years ago before training with CND™ and becoming a master. This led to her first role at a salon in Hertford, owned by Marian Newman. In 2017, Kym was invited to join the HD Nail Artist Academy team. “I love the team camaraderie. My highlights include being a winning nail model for Hazel at a competition in Las Vegas, and entering the Scratch Stars Hall of Fame for Nail Team of the Year,” Kym reveals. “I am so proud that we have the opportunity to showcase all of our skills via a Scratch cover. It’s an amazing opportunity and I’m beaming from ear to ear!” @kymmoody

COVERSTORY Nails by Corey Stockwell & Kym Moody for Karen Newman

“I airbrushed these nails and supported the creation of the matte, smooth finish,” comments Corey Stockwell. “I created the ring shown on the cover using L&P, crafting the roses and crystals around a wire base.”

Products used: • HD Almond Tips • HD Optimal Monomer & Silk Rose Powder • HD Salon Pro Acrylic Brush • HD Paints in Black Knight & Alby (watered down for airbrushing) • HD Matt It! No Wipe Top Coat

TEAM TALK: Corey Stockwell

Nails by Catriona Leith for Kym Moody

Products used: • HD Short Sculpting Forms • HD Gel Oval Brush • HD Eeeze Gel & Watermelon Slip Solution • HD Art Gels in Jet & Casper • HD Matt It! No Wipe Top Coat • HD Fine Liner Brush

Corey opened a salon in the centre of Northampton at the age of 21, after training as a beauty therapist straight from school. Her goal is to keep delivering excellent nail education to students and to continue to learn and innovate. “I am in total awe of my HDNA Academy team mates,” she reveals. “We learn so much from each other and everyone has their own strength. We support and help one another and I have made friends for life.” @nail_techniques_cozmo

Nails by Fereida Lydiate & Kayley Cairns for Kym Moody “The nails that Kayley and I created sit directly under Hazel’s in the finished pose, so we wanted to infuse some of the elements of Hazel’s extreme nail design into our own, but create a wearable nail look,” reveals Fereida. Kayley adds: “I love extreme art, so I was pleased to be able to work with Kym and Fereida on this design to incorporate my passion into the nail look. Kym is great at airbrushing and Fereida has the skill to create sharp, extreme shapes with such ease and I could enjoy working on 3D acrylic designs for hours. Putting our skills together achieved beautiful results.”

Products used: • HD Long Sculpting Forms • HD Master Pro Acrylic Brush • HD Optimal monomer & Rosey peach powder • HD Coloured Acrylic Powders in Bette & Bright White • HD Art Gel in Casper • HD Matt It! No Wipe Top Coat • AB Swarovski Gems • Akzentz Bling On Gel • HD Micro Beads in Silver & Gunmetal

FUTURE THINKING

Nails by Hazel Dixon for salon junior, Rosie Gribble Products used: • Kostka Bojana Extreme Sculpting Forms • HD Optimal Monomer & Rosey Peach Powder • HD Master Pro Acrylic Brush • HD Coloured Acrylic Powders in Bette, Bright White & Silver Dollar • HD Micro Beads in Silver & Gunmetal • HD Paints in Black Knight & Alby (watered down for airbrushing) • HD Matt It! & Shine It! No Wipe Top Coats • Rose Gold Swarovski Crystals • Rose Gold Wire

The HD Nail Artist Academy team has a number of plans for the year ahead, including the launch of the Ultimate Nail Masters education programme. “With four stages available for both technical and artistic skill levels, we believe that this programme will deliver exceptional training for all skill levels, packed with new techniques, knowledge and up-to-date information,” Hazel reveals. “Seasonal trend workshops and classes that incorporate new and innovative products are also underway and the UK team has expanded. I am excited to be in talks with international educators to expand the education we deliver to Europe and the USA.” www.hazeldixonnailartistacademy.com / www.hazeldixonnails.com

/hazeldixonnails

@hdnailacademy SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 25

coming soon SSCA CANN TTHHIISS CCOODDEE && SSIIG GNN UUPP TTOO BBEE TTHHEE FFIIRRSSTT TTOO BBUUYY RREEAADY DY SSCCUULLPPTTEEDD G GEELL SYS SYSTTEEM M

TTHHEEGGEELLBBOOTTTTLLEE..CCOOMM

TRENDVISION

What this year’s Pantone means for nails & beauty Meet Very Peri – a periwinkle blue with a violet red undertone that’s dictating trends for 2022 HELENA BIGGS REPORTS

lobal colour authority, Pantone, has picked shade Very Peri (PANTONE 17-3938) as its Color of the Year 2022 to symbolise ‘the global zeitgeist of the moment and the transition we are going through.’ Announced annually to help brands and manufacturers make trend-led colour decisions, the Color of the Year is chosen by Pantone’s colour experts who comb the world for colour influences. For 23 years, they have considered fashion, popular travel destinations, the entertainment industry and art collections to find a standout shade. Each year’s hue serves to influence product development and purchasing decisions in multiple industries, as well as product packaging and graphic design. Laurie Pressman, vice president of the Pantone Color Institute, comments: “The Color of the Year reflects what is taking place in our global culture, expressing what people are looking for that colour can hope to answer.

“As society continues to recognise colour as a critical form of communication, and as a way to express, the complexity of this red-violet-infused blue hue highlights the expansive possibilities that lie before us.” Described as a blend of ‘the faithfulness and constancy of blue with the energy and excitement of red’, Very Peri serves to empower and encourage creativity – ideal for those working in the nail sector.

Image courtesy of OPI showcasing shade Oh You Sing, Dance, Act & Produce? Available via www.trade.opiuk.com

A Pantone spokesperson adds: “Suggestive of personal inventiveness and a daring imagination, Very Peri makes a novel statement for eyes, nails and especially hair in a variety of finishes and applications – from glittery and glam to dusty matte.” If you’re seeking to revamp your nail or beauty space, consider Very Peri for its versatility and ability to animate your creative spirit. “Very Peri is suited to an array of different materials, textures and finishes, providing a pop of colour, whether introduced through a painted wall, accent furniture or home décor, or acting as an intriguing and eye-catching accent in a pattern.”

Marble nails with a touch of sparkle by @kookynailsmk using Halo Gel Polish.

28 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

TRENDVISION

Nails by Louella Belle brand ambassador, Anika Ahmed (@enhance_anika).

Glossy celestial nails by @nailbruja using Glitterbels Unbelievabel Gels in Luscious Lilac and Purple Party.

Nails by Lecenté ambassador, Kirsty McGeouch, using Lecenté Create shades Jack Frost, Coco Fizz, Twilight Zone and Steal Your Thunder.

HD Nail Artist Academy educator, Catriona Leith, showcases a periwinkle and purple design created using HD Glitter and Art Gel. Cable knit nails show that periwinkle styling is suitable all year round. By @don_woohoo of Queen Nail Spa, Louetta.

10 11 Periwinkle hair by Anna Kim of @lunar.salon.

Pops of periwinkle and purple make for a relaxed, comforting setting at Posh Nails by Viktoria, Cardiff (@poshnails_withviktoria).

“Very Peri serves to empower and encourage creativity – ideal for those working in the nail sector.”

1. OPI Nail Lacquer in Oh You Sing, Dance, Act & Produce? £POA/RRP £13.90 www.trade.opiuk.com 2. Artistic Colour Gloss in I Have Connections £12.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk 3. The GelBottle Inc FoilX Foil in Amethyst £5.95 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com 4. Magnetic Nail Design Gel Polish in Blackberry £14.80 + VAT www.magneticnails.uk 5. Glitterbels Coloured Acrylic Powder in Violet Skies £8.95 + VAT www.nailsbyannabel.co.uk 6. ProGenX Nails Dip Powder in PX41 £23 inc VAT www.gopretty.co.uk 7. All That Jazz Nail Lacquer in Check Out My Melody £1.49 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com 8. Halo Gel Polish in Wisdom £5.49 + VAT www.purenails.co 9. CND Shellac™ in Lilac Longing £13.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com 10. Light Elegance In My Happy Place Glitter Gel £18.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com 11. HD Pro Nails Art Gel in Iris £9.50 + VAT www.hazeldixonnails.com 12. Lecenté Glimenté in Delirious £6.95 + VAT www.lecente.com / www.sweetsquared.com / www.ellisons.co.uk

www.pantone.com/uk/en /PantoneColor @pantone @pantone SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 29

s e p o c s l i a N

SPIRIT&STYLE

gn ris ti c s o f e a c h si te c ra a h c e th Im m e rs e in e xp lo re s c o lo u r Y E IL IE LL A C s a o f th e zo d ia c , u r st a r st yl e … yo it su to s n g si p ic ks & d e BIRTHDAY TECH! Lauren Rose Beazeley

Lauren Rose Beazeley of Blossom’s Beauty, Leicester, has immersed herself in the nail sector since 2011 and celebrates her birthday on 15 January, falling under the Capricorn star sign. “I love being creative and making people feel good about themselves,” she smiles. “I really enjoy the process of doing nails and seeing the transformation at the end of each appointment. Capricorns are traditional and caring. We’re very intuitive and good at reading people which is great in such a customer-facing career.”

Lauren Rose Beazeley has created this Capricorn-inspired nail style using brown, a top colour pick for the sign.

@blossoms_beautyx

Capricorn

Aquarius

DECEMBER 22 – JANUARY 19

Happy birthday Capricorns! The start of a year will encourage you to be flexible with plans and experiment with new ideas. Take opportunities as they come your way.

@ehnails_xx uses pretty pastel tones for this timely nail look.

JANUARY 20 – FEBRUARY 18

January is a great time for Aquarians to organise schedules and prepare for the future. This year will bring ideas and newfound inspiration your way, so start planning a new range of nail designs!

Taurus

APRIL 20 – MAY 20

Aries

MARCH 21 – APRIL 19

Positive change and progress await Aries, as this sign is fuelled with ambition. The future’s bright – so feel motivated and stimulate productivity with a bold orange hue.

January brings boosts in creativity and optimism for Taureans. This month is a great time to focus on building and growing your social media profiles.

:YOURS Iridazzling Element in Orange Jazz £2.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Cancer

JUNE 21 – JULY 22

Cancers should prioritise practical ventures this month and indulge in learning and education. If you’ve been eager to expand your nail knowledge, now is the time! Halo Gel Polish in Empire State £5.49 + VAT www.purenails.co

Libra

SEPTEMBER 23 – OCTOBER 22

Libras – you may see great accomplishments from work this month, and a number of opportunities from the past may reappear. Stay grounded and practical with a cool grey or sophisticated navy nail shade to show you mean business. 30 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Leo

JULY 23 – AUGUST 22

Leos will feel full of optimism this month and wish to be social at any opportunity. Embrace positive and happy vibes with a yellow-toned hue.

Light Elegance Color Gel in Grazing The Grasslands £18.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Scorpio

Pisces

FEBRUARY 19 – MARCH 20

Opportunities bringing unexpected changes will come to Pisces, alongside exciting news this season. Wear a red shade on your nails this month to serve up the courage and strength to try new things. Nailchemy Gel Polish in Eternity £11.99 + VAT www.nailchemy.co.uk

Gemini

MAY 21 – JUNE 20

Work and career moves are at the forefront this month for Gemini. January is an ideal time to experiment with new things – why not try a new nail shade? Be adventurous with fun purple tones. OPI GelColor in Violet Visionary £17.80 + VAT www.trade.opiuk.com

Virgo

AUGUST 23 – SEPTEMBER 22

Virgos should expect last minute plans to present themselves, but be sure to allow time for family and friends. This season is a great time for this sign to finish old projects.

OCTOBER 23 – NOVEMBER 21

Scorpios will be seeing forward movement and progress this season and will receive motivational boosts for their future goals. There is a strong focus on work for this sign in January.

Sa arius

NOVEMBER 22 – DECEMBER 21

Productivity will be high for Sagittarians this month. Maintain an energetic, spritely feel by opting for a bold fuchsia shade.

Glitterbels Unbelievabel Gel in Pink Parade £9.95 inc VAT www.nailsbyannabel.co.uk

UP TO 7 DAYS OF WEAR AND SHINE. OUR FIRST EVER NATURAL ORIGIN, VEGAN NAIL LACQUER. SHOP ALL 30 SHADES AT TRADE.OPIUK.COM.

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Chair – Marian Newman BEM

Deputy chair & director of information – Sue Davies

Director of education – Donna Clayton

Director of licence to teach – Jennie Nippard

Treasurer & financial director – Peter Borg

Membership secretary – Alexandra Cassells

THE FORCE

OF THE FEDS The FNP team serves up updates on its industry progress & reveals plans for the year ahead

REFLECTIONS & FUTURE GOALS

e opened The FNP to supporters in November 2020 and to members in August 2021 and since our founding days, we have achieved so much – but we have so much to do! The team has been finding its feet and we have spent a lot of time developing the website, which we have done thanks to the support of our patrons (OPI, Glitterbels and Bio Sculpture Gel GB), our benefactor (Global Travel Mask) and, of course, our new members. A special mention must go to our director of operations & membership secretary, Alex Cassells, who has forfeited so much of her time to get it up and running. The final phase of the site will be live later this month. We will be holding our AGM very shortly, which all members, patrons and benefactors will be invited to virtually attend. We recently held an Ordinary General Meeting at which we received and accepted the Annual Report from each of our executive board members. Here is a small part of what we had to say about our first year:

Marian Newman, chair As chair, I have been involved in some wider issues affecting the industry. The FNP has been welcomed, accepted and acknowledged as the only ‘nail sector focused’ organisation by many influential bodies and at government level.

“

The hard work has been done, and we need to make our place in the beauty industry important and valuable. We will continue with our initiatives to make the nail sector a brighter and more professional place.

Sue Davies, deputy chair & director of information Over the last year, I have worked on the following projects within my role at The FNP: • Census of the Nail Industry • Social media management • Building the FNP brand and community through networking and social media • Trade shows • The Professional Beauty nail competition • Website development • Membership development • Event management • Developing member benefits • Patronage/benefactors • Educational consultation

“We will continue with our initiatives to make the nail sector a brighter and more professional place.”

We collaborate with, and are supported by, the British Beauty Council, BABTAC, Habia and The Hair & Barber Council. We have direct access to the personal care team in the government’s Department for Business Energy & Industrial Strategy (BEIS) and also the Office for Product Safety & Standards (OPSS). We will be creating a non-executive board of ‘Federation advisors’ whose expertise and input will be driving The FNP forward to provide our members with exactly what they need, and 32 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

we will also be looking for more patrons and benefactors to support our work. This financial support will not only pay for the website, but hopefully allow us to employ people to run membership administration, membership connections and social media for the industry and the consumer.

The work we have needed to commit to in order to make The FNP operational has been intense for such a small team. I feel that we have grown and achieved many of our goals, and there are more awaiting delivery and enhancement in 2022. The first large-scale FNP project was the Census of the Nail Industry, which was a far-reaching survey focusing on our sector’s demographic, working styles, welfare and more. The results of this are being worked into a report. There was an immense amount of data and I am expecting the final report to be published by the end of March 2022. The raw, anonymous data is available to our patrons.

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

2022 PROJECTS & PARTNERSHIPS

The FNP already has many projects in hand for 2022, including confirmed presence at trade shows Olympia Beauty and Professional Beauty, and competition management at Professional Beauty. We are excited to be involved in the 10th Scratch Stars Awards, providing expertise for its scoresheet criteria and judging process. We will also be hosting a Seminar Social and working towards greater awareness of our brand across the nail and wider industry.

Peter Borg, finance director Working alongside amazing founding members and launching The FNP has been very exciting; there has been a new website, many meetings and a lot of Zoom calls. When launch day arrived, the fanfare created was fantastic and we received a lot of press coverage. My role as finance director was to ensure that everything ran smoothly financially, and when we opened for paid members, the organisation gained a lot of traction very quickly. It was so lovely to see so much faith in us from industry members – especially during the pandemic. Patrons invested in us to help us to grow.

Jennie Nippard, director of Licence To Teach Licence to Teach is a fantastic membership option for educators as it provides them with a platform to showcase their courses, gather reviews from students and create a community. There is support from industry experts who offer help and advice when needed. The dashboards are now open on the website meaning that educators can list their qualifications and CPD and showcase the courses that they offer. Prospective students will be able to use the search facility to find an educator local to them, with faith that LTT educators are highly skilled, qualified and passionate about the industry. There are educational resources available to such educators who need assistance with lesson plans or schemes of work. To come is a review platform at which students can leave reviews for educators, which will help to raise their profile. A mentorship programme means that elite educators can mentor other educators and help them to develop their skills.

I was invited to write content for Scratch and attended both the Olympia Beauty and Professional Beauty events, at which The FNP was present to raise awareness and meet members and industry professionals. It has been a very interesting year but there is still so much to do. Thank you to everyone who has supported us so far.

Alex Cassells, director of operations & membership secretary The past year has been an intense period of activity involving the creation of an operational strategy, building the website and creating the necessary working practices, which are now ready to be adopted as standard: • The FNP’s Quality Management Plan • The process for approving and processing memberships • Reciprocal membership discounts with our industry peers

Donna Clayton, director of education

The Quality Management Plan (QPM) serves to ensure that the highest standards are maintained, and the plan is robust but achievable. Our processes are now agreed and documented and will ensure that our methods of working are consistent and easy to adopt by those undertaking them. By having these in place, we can concentrate on our strategic planning to future-proof the FNP and build on the services we can provide to our members. The website build has been challenging as its functionality involves careful planning, highly detailed specifications and intensive testing. I have worked closely with the web developers to ensure that the build meets the requirements of each phase. The site can now accept memberships and has fully interactive, intuitive dashboards that our members can use to both record and monitor their own development, which we can use to recognise and reward those actively seeking to improve their own standards. The final phase (phase four) incorporates a wealth of resources for our members to download and use to educate themselves and develop their businesses. It will feature a directory of UK nail professionals and educators registered with The FNP. This will not only help our members build their businesses but also, crucially, ensure that consumers can confidently locate practitioners and educators of the highest standard and help break the cycle of poor training, leading to poor practice. www.the-fnp.com

/TheFNPUK

We very much enjoyed meeting members at the trade shows last autumn and I particularly enjoyed conversing with fellow educators and discussing best practice. My role involves supporting all aspects of education within our memberships and that of our partners. A lot of work has been going on to support the phases within the memberships, including educator-specific materials such as lesson plans and schemes of work templates and instructions. Documents detailing how to utilise the National Occupational Standards, written and overseen by Habia, will be within this suite of assets both for educators and nail professionals. This year, the memberships will be further developed and there will be greater CPD opportunities via The FNP. We look forward to seeing dashboards full of FED points! Our collaboration with Habia will strengthen to support educators within our membership who wish to consider regulated training. It is, however, with great sadness, that we are losing three of our valued directors. Since The FNP was founded, their workload has increased exponentially and they cannot continue to devote the time necessary. They will still support us by joining the non-executive Federation advisors and we will be creating a new executive board that will be announced at our AGM and in next month’s column. @the_fnp_

@the_fnp_

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 33

BREAKOUT STAR

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GUNTER'S GET DOWN

ROSY ROSITA

ALL EYES ON MEENA

Gelish® and Morgan Taylor® introduce the new SING 2 collection which is full of glitz, glam and gorgeous shades inspired by the film. Check out the collection and see the movie in theaters.

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IT’S SHOWTIME!

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NAILSONTV

Meet the The stars of BBC Three documentary, Nail Bar Boys, chat to Scratch about the joys of the industry & their success in the salon & on-screen REBECCA HITCHON REPORTS

“

e may not know a lot about women, but we know a lot about their nails,” is one of the first lines of Nail Bar Boys, which perfectly sets the tone for the BBC documentary. The series, made up of three 30-minute episodes, introduces the world to Astro, Brandon, Bruno, Dragon, Tony and Kenny, the team behind Liverpool nail salon, L1 Nails. Instantly likeable, the six British Vietnamese men give us a glimpse into running one of the city’s most popular salons, while overcoming personal challenges, searching for love and supporting each other along the way. Since the opening of L1 Nails eight years ago, the Nail Bar Boys have achieved local celebrity status. With the @l1nails Instagram account amassing a huge 34.2k followers prior to the release of Nail

How to watch All three episodes of Nail Bar Boys are available to watch on BBC iPlayer: www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer.

Astro 36 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Bar Boys, it was only a matter of time before a television opportunity came their way. “The heads of LA Factual, the documentary arm of TV production company, LA Productions, are based in Liverpool. They had always wanted a programme to showcase the city and they chose L1 Nails to represent,” the Nail Bar Boys reveal to Scratch. “It was pitched to the BBC, which loved it. There are plenty of shows involving barbers and tattoo artists, but never nail techs, so now it’s our time to shine.” The positive spotlight that Nail Bar Boys has cast on the nail industry in the mainstream media is something that the nail techs take pride in, and they are hopeful that it will open eyes and minds to the skill and talent in the nail sector. “The nail industry doesn’t get the recognition it deserves, so hopefully nail techs can enjoy the show and support us. We are a huge community that contributes

“The nail industry doesn’t get the recognition it deserves, so hopefully nail techs can enjoy the show and support us.”

Brandon

Bruno

Dragon

NAILSONTV

“We hope to inspire young people who have an interest in nails through the episodes and show that they can have fun, be creative and achieve what they want with hard work.”

so much to the UK economy, but we often don’t get treated as so,” they comment.

“We hope to inspire young people who have an interest in nails through the episodes and show that they can have fun, be creative and achieve what they want with hard work,” they add. The fact that hard graft pays off is evident throughout the series, with all of the men admitting that they were lost in life before they found nails. Tony, one of the elder members of L1 Nails, wasn’t a fan of the nine-to-five office environment and with a flair for art, decided to indulge in nail styling. Dragon, his brother, and Brandon, his cousin, debated careers in their mid-20s so helped with reception duties and coffee rounds in the salon on a part-time basis. From there, they enrolled onto a nail course and joined full-time. Bruno, also a cousin of Tony and Dragon, later joined the L1 Nails team, before the mother of brothers Astro and Kenny, two of the younger boys, arranged for them to help at the salon. And the rest is history. So what is the secret to the team’s success? “Great customer service,” is the answer that the men give, citing the connections they build with clients as a key reason why they return. “Good customer service can only be achieved by having a great team with

members that respect, support and inspire one another,” they say, adding that being based in the friendly city of Liverpool makes it easy to provide a great service to clients. “Our favourite thing about working in the nail industry is getting to meet new people from all walks of life. We don’t just hear gossip; we hear struggles and inspirational stories,” the Nail Bar Boys explain. In the show, conversations with clients cover topics including racism and differing cultures; areas that the nail techs say have helped them to realise the pride they have for their own heritage. The mix of hard-hitting conversations and heart-warming, funny moments has helped to make the series a big hit. Alongside conversations at the nail desk, personal challenges are highlighted – from addiction to Astro building his confidence to fight in a charity boxing match. While the Nail Bar Boys joke to Scratch that some of them were such natural actors, they might ‘give up their day jobs’, let’s hope that’s not the case – not only to get a second series, but so that Liverpool doesn’t lose a nail salon sensation.

Nail designs by The Nail Bar Boys of L1 Nails, Liverpool.

Tony

Kenny

Scan here to watch our interview with the Nail Bar Boys

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 37

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TECH-NOLOGY

The

Digital

Beauty

Revolution

Travel through the digital sphere with REBECCA HITCHON, who discovers technology’s influence on nail & beauty experiences The way make-up and nail shades are chosen is changing, with technology playing a growing role in the decisionmaking process. We’re living in a multi-device world in which phones rarely leave fingertips. There’s an app for almost everything and clients are exposed to new products and information via a variety of platforms. The volume of content in the digital sphere can leave clients lacking in confidence about their decisions. Instagram alone offers 5.4 million #nailinspo posts – meaning that settling on a nail style can often be a tricky task. Some may see the role of tech as time-saving, as clients can virtually ‘try on’ shades via artificial intelligence technology before their appointment – thus eliminating the deliberation process at the nail desk or make-up counter. However, others prefer the human interaction that comes with consulting about shades before a purchase or service. On the flip side, tech is supporting brands and manufacturers by predicting trends through consumer behaviour, allowing them to provide consumers with quick access to personalised products. These meaningful, tailored interactions help strengthen connections with customers – but where did it all begin, and where is it going? Let’s take a look…

40 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

2009: OPI launches ‘try before you buy’ site section OPI released technology in 2009 to allow users to customise the skin tone of a virtual hand and try over 200 of its shades on nails. Augmented reality (AR) has become more mainstream and this tech has evolved for brands to offer a ‘try before you buy’ experience, where nail shades can be visualised on consumers’ own hands in real time. “AR-powered virtual try-on (VTO) technology has big potential to drive sales and engagement in the nail industry,” comments Alice Chang, CEO at beauty tech solutions provider, Perfect Corp. “With VTO technology, customers can access full shade portfolios, allowing for endless product discovery and inspiration. This often leads to increased purchasing and basket sizes, as customers feel confident and excited about the shades they have tried on.

Alice Chang, CEO & Founder of Perfect Corp

“This technology allows customers to explore which nail colours are best suited to their style and beauty preferences. It can also help them plan their nail look prior to going to the salon or when purchasing a new nail colour,” she adds. Perfect Corp. first entered the nail space with its AR try-on app, YouCam Nail, but has since expanded to offer artificial intelligence-powered (AI) live hand mapping technology for nails. The customisable technology can be integrated online, in-app and in-store, allowing brands to offer an endless amount of single and multi-colour nail polish options, in finishes such as cream, jelly, sheer and matte, which can then be compared.

“With VTO technology, customers can access full shade portfolios, allowing for endless product discovery and inspiration.”

TECH-NOLOGY

2013: virtual try-on make-up/hair apps released Try-on make-up and hair apps have also found popularity in the last decade, with some suggesting they may even replace in-store testers. “In the past, a buyer would have only tested one lipstick or foundation, but with virtual try-on technology they can try dozens of shades from the comfort of their own homes and at their own pace,” continues Chang, who has worked with the likes of Estée Lauder, MAC and No7 via Perfect Corp. The YouCam try-on app range offers users the opportunity to virtually try hundreds of beauty brands. In 2018, the L’Oréal Group, which owns brands including Maybelline, Garnier, NYX and Essie, acquired AI and AR start-up, Modiface, to help reinvent the beauty experience in the digital age. A Modiface virtual-try on tool for Essie was launched in early 2021. The acquisition proved to be a good move when lockdown began, as L’Oréal products could still be promoted through being ‘tried on’ at home, in a contactless format without any anxiety about hygiene. “The pandemic has taught us that beauty brands need to adopt technologies that will help to engage, excite and entertain customers,” says Chang. “From digital beauty consultations to AI diagnostics and more, these technologies will continue to evolve to engage customers, solve consumer pain points and enable personalised experiences.”

2014: the first NFT is created

NFTs, or non-fungible tokens, are digital assets that can be bought and sold – but what makes them unique is that they are not interchangeable. This means they cannot be copied or have the same value as something else, making them digital certificates of ownership. It’s like the Mona Lisa; there will only ever be one original painting and no copy will equate to the same value. There are pros and cons of NFTs. For consumers, these tokens provide a way to buy into favoured brands or get involved with favoured creators. For companies and creators, it’s an extra revenue stream that allows them to connect with younger audiences, turning them into loyal consumers. However, because NFTs are a new concept and are fully digital transactions, their stability, financially and in terms of security breaches, isn’t guaranteed.

“The pandemic has taught us that beauty brands need to adopt technologies that will help to engage, excite and entertain customers.”

NFTs in the beauty sphere E.l.f. Cosmetics: In June 2021, the brand extended its offering into ‘crypto cosmetics’ and gave all members of the E.l.f. community the chance to purchase nine digital NFT artworks based on the company’s most popular products, but in gold-coated formats.

Have you heard?

TikTok has announced that it will start selling its top viral content as NFTs, meaning that beauty videos and tutorials could be bought as unique collectibles.

above&beyond: The British beauty brand launched in October 2021, with the first lifetime-use refillable micro-plastic free lip balm. By buying a lip balm and three refills, customers were able to buy an NFT from a 5,000-piece collection called ‘Unscrew The Planet’. Each NFT piece could then be resold by the owner, with 15% of the resale prices donated to environmental charities.

2020: the ‘robot manicure’ is launched

Did you know that the average female spends 3,120 minutes a year on nailcare? This is why Clockwork, a US based nail technology startup, has designed a robot-engineered nail service for busy customers who want an inexpensive, on-the-go opportunity to get a manicure. The robot ‘minicure’ lasts about 10 minutes, with each nail taking about 30 seconds to finish. Currently in the testing phase, the service is in two San Francisco locations, however Clockwork is looking to expand into retail, airports, hotels and corporate buildings.

2021: smart perfume is introduced

A perfume has been launched that can be customised through an AI-guided smartphone app. Based on the idea that perfumes, like our clothes, should follow our lifestyles and suit different occasions, the app allows users to choose from a range of scents and control the volume that is sprayed out of NINU’s refillable electronic extracting system. For those feeling indecisive, NINU does all the work, using its AI enhancement to recommend scents based on personal tendencies, the time of day and the weather. Alternatively, users can create their own fragrance mixes through the app. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 41

SOCIALSCENE

Take a peek behind-the-scenes of Scratch’s online platforms & see what’s piquing the interest of fellow pros…

@nailsbyha

rriet_

S T A T S

RISING STAR

Most loved...

There was so much love for this heart-themed nail design by @nailsbyharriet_ when we reposted it on our Insta feed last year. Scooping over 19,000 likes, it’s our most ‘liked’ post of 2021! The talented tech crafted the hearts over SNA Professional Quick Tips.

Instagram.com/jlobeauty

JLo Beauty, the skincare line from Jennifer Lopez, has seen the biggest increase in consumer interest in comparison to other beauty brands. Launched in 2020, over 1.1million searches for the brand were made in its first 12 months, according to Google Trends data.

Show of trust The UK’s favourite beauty brand of 2021 is The Body Shop, according to beauty discovery website, Cosmetify.

The most trusted health and beauty brands in the world have been announced by personal finance experts at money.co.uk. They compared the Trustpilot reviews of over 100 worldwide companies – with Colgate and Dove jointly taking the top spot, followed by Maybelline, Gilette, Nivea and Shiseido.

BATHTIME TALES Women are twice as likely to use bath salts, bath oil, bubble bath or bath crème than men, according to a study by bath and shower brand, Fenjal. What’s more, 50% of Brits want to share their bath with another person – with Scarlett Johansson the celebrity most people want to take a bath with. The study also revealed that Londoners and Geordies take the most baths of those in the UK.

MOST FOLLOWED

The Cosmetify Index has revealed the beauty brands at the top of their Insta game – with the most followers in their field. Huda Beauty boasts over 49 million followers, followed by Kylie Cosmetics and MAC with over 24 million each. The beauty influencer with the highest earnings from social media is James Charles, who scoops over $100,000 per combined post (YouTube and Instagram). /scratchmag

@scratchmagazine

FOOTCARESERVICES

HOW TO STEP UP YOUR

footcare service

Image courtesy of CND™ (Creative Nail Design Inc.)

A new year provides the perfect opportunity to enhance your treatment offerings, so refresh your knowledge of client footcare concerns to boost your service & elevate the experience BY REBECCA HITCHON

or most clients at this time of year, seeking professional care for their feet and toenails may not be high up on their to-do list. With feet mostly wrapped in fluffy socks and tucked into boots during the winter months, many don’t see a reason to treat their feet – but it’s so important to inform them otherwise, as winter is a tough time for feet and nails. “Certain nail and foot conditions, like fungal infections, can be exacerbated by heavy, closed-toe footwear and thick socks, which Susan McGirl are commonly worn in winter and cause the feet to sweat more,” explains Susan McGirl, educator for CND™ and Light Elegance. By opening clients’ minds to the benefits of winter footcare services, not only can you prevent foot and toenail problems that your business may usually be presented with in spring or summer, but your business can reap rewards. “Regular foot treatments not only have aesthetic importance, but they aid comfort when walking, reducing painful calluses, relieving foot strains and Magda Gniewek taking care of tired skin and toenails,” adds Magnetic Nail Design expert educator, Magda Gniewek. “By advertising the benefits of regular foot treatments, we can benefit from footcare clients all year round.”

44 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Nailing the consultation “A consultation is essential before every service, whether the client is new or a regular. A thorough Clare Hooson consultation with questions and observations allows you to prepare for your treatment and determines the products and techniques you’ll be able to use throughout,” explains Louella Belle educator, Clare Hooson.

Consultation pointers Nailchemy educator, Pamela Brawn, tells Scratch that the key points to learn from a consultation are: Pamela Brown whether the client has an active lifestyle and if this includes sports involving the feet, whether they have any existing medical conditions or are taking medication that may cause a contra-indication, and whether they have any allergies. She adds that it’s also important to learn what products a client uses at home for their footcare, to gauge the type of products that do and don’t work well for them and that may affect the condition of their nails and feet.

Consultation notes

ü Is the client diabet ic? Turn to point 1.

ü Is the client a runn er or sportsperson? Tu

rn to point 2.

ü Is the client pregna nt? Turn to point 3.

ü Is the client suffer ing from toenail trauma? Tu

rn to point 4.

ü Is the client suffer ing from or callused feet?

dry

Turn to point 5.

ü Is th e cl ie nt un de rg oi ng chemotherapy? Tu

rn to point 6.

MARKETING MATTERS

“Pedicures should be promoted all year round, not just for summer holidays – so include winter pedicure packages on your salon menu.” Clare Hooson, Louella Belle educator. “Put the ‘pamper’ in your pedicure service by offering a deluxe version to encourage clients to continue regular footcare during the ‘off season’.” Susan McGirl, CND™ & Light Elegance educator.

FOOTCARESERVICES

1. Diabetic clients

2. Runners & sportspersons

Diabetes occurs when a person’s body doesn’t produce any, enough or effective insulin, a hormone that allows blood sugar to enter the cells in the body in order to fuel it. Around four million people in the UK are living with diabetes, so it’s vital that you’re aware of the effects of the condition, which can damage blood vessels and nerves.

“The most common foot conditions relating to sports, especially running, include injuries to the tendons, inflammation of the plantar fascia (a ligament connecting the heel to the front of the foot), and toenail conditions caused by repetitive trauma as the nail hits the top of the trainer,” explain Nicola Nicola O’Brian O’Brian, CEO of the Love Your Feet clinic, and her clinical lead podiatrist, Gemma Andrews. “This can result in the nail bed becoming permanently damaged and the thickening of the nail as it regrows, along with the nail coming off – leaving a portal of entry for bacteria. This can lead to fungal nail infections and ingrown toenails.”

“If blood vessels are damaged, this can lead to a poor blood supply to the feet. A consequence of this is that if the person has a cut on their foot, it will take longer than usual to heal,” explains Gareth Hicks, Louella Belle educator and expert at diabetes workshop company, DUET Gareth Hicks Diabetes. “This longer healing time gives bacteria the opportunity to get into the wound and cause infection. For example, fungal skin and nail infections take longer to clear for clients with diabetes, so the use of clean tools is important.” Another symptom of diabetes can be neuropathy; no or poor sensation in the feet due to nerve damage. “Technicians should remember that if a client has a loss of sensation, they should be cautious with the massage pressure used, the water temperature of foot spas and baths, and take extra care with cutting and filing,” Gareth tells Scratch. ““Check the water temperature of foot spas and baths to ensure it is not too hot. As these clients have no sensation, it is possible for them to have a cut, a fissure or even an ulcer and not know it.” Footlogix DD Cream Mousse Formula £12.50 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

Footlogix Massage Formula £10.50 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

COURSE BITE

“Avoid soaking the feet for more than five minutes as any small cuts could open up, which is dangerous for a diabetic client, and avoiding cutting back or pushing cuticles,” adds Pamela Brawn. She recommends the Footlogix range, which is specifically designed with diabetics in mind. Treatments containing salicylic acid or similar ingredients must be avoided for diabetic clients.

Fight bacteria and fungus, and boost circulation with Elim MediHeel Spa Additive, £10 + VAT www.renewbeauty.co.uk

DUET Diabetes and Louella Belle are on a mission to educate nail and beauty professionals about how to care for diabetic clients, and have created a podiatrist-led online workshop. “The aim of the course is to aid the understanding of how and why the foot can be affected by diabetes, when to refer and what to do if you are faced with a problem foot. We also share what good daily footcare entails for someone living with diabetes,” comments Gareth Hicks. “Nail technicians are in a fantastic position to be an extra pair of eyes, ears and hands for clients living with diabetes.” Visit www.louellabelle.academy to book the course.

Dina Gohil

Dina Gohil, CEO of DG Podiatrist, cites traumatised nails, such as bruised, broken, split, thicker and discoloured nails, alongside complete nail loss, as the most common conditions seen in sportspersons. “When trying to treat nails that are already traumatised, it’s important not to cause further trauma to the nail bed,” she comments.

“Avoid removing any nail that is still attached to the nail bed, for example, and refer to a podiatrist when the nail is coming off. If the nails are thickened, referral to a podiatrist is also advised to help CND™ RescueRXX™ the healing process and removal of callus £8.95 + VAT/RRP £20.95 that will form as the nail regrows.” www.sweetsquared.com Nail strengthening treatments are recommended, alongside saltwater soaks to avoid bacterial foot and toe infections and relieve tissue stress. Light Elegance Salt Soak £17.95 + VAT/RRP £42.95 www.sweetsquared.com

Mii Nourish & Nurture Cuticle Oil £7.75 + VAT/RRP £15.50 www.gerrardinternational.com

All of the podiatrists cite preventative measures as a key way to avoid foot problems caused by sports. “Advise clients to wear the correct size footwear, checking that there is enough space in the toebox and ample midfoot support,” says Dina Gohil. “Recommend that clients change sock styles and thickness to coincide with seasonal changes and avoid pure cotton or wool socks as they can get damp and stay damp, causing friction, irritation and infection,” add Nicola O’Brian and Gemma Andrews, who advise opting for bamboo socks and cotton and polyester blends. To prevent infections, including the fungal skin infection Athlete’s Foot which typically causes sore, itchy skin between the toes, anti-fungal formulas that avert excessive moisture are recommended. Footlogix Peeling Skin Formula £12.50 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

Footlogix Sweaty Feet Formula £11.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

Manipure by Magnetic Nail Aid £9.95 + VAT/RRP £23.95 www.magneticnails.uk

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 45

FOOTCARESERVICES

3. Pregnant clients “Many women will seek the services of a nail tech during their pregnancy because it’s part of their usual care routine. It’s a popular gift and is something the mum-to-be will seek out if she can no longer manage some of her own self-care routine, or if she wants a pick-me-up,” explains Nicola O’Brian. She lists four conditions to consider:

1. Swelling of the legs, feet & toes (oedema) & foot/heel pain caused by hormone changes and additional weight.

“Swollen and uncomfortable feet will benefit from a light massage that helps drain the fluid retention upwards and away from the tip of the toes and up past the ankles,” explains Dina Gohil. Give pregnant clients the choice of a vibration, bubble, hot water, roller or waterless massage with Hive Natural Spring Professional Foot Spa £42.95 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk

Light Elegance Spa Oil £14.95 + VAT/RRP £34.95 www.sweetsquared.com

Nailchemy Academy has added the Professional Pedicure Diploma course to its education offering. During the course, students will learn: • The anatomy, physiology and pathologies relating to pedicures. • Correct nail cutting procedure. • Application of lotions and creams. • Nail painting techniques. • Health & hygiene of all aspects of pedicure treatments. • Identifying contra-actions (reactions that arise during or after a pedicure treatment, which indicate that the treatment must stop) and contra-indications. The diploma is delivered as a two-day practical training course, with students completing eight hours of study time. Visit www.nailchemy.co.uk for more information and to book the course.

Client comfort

Hive Simply The Revitalising Foot Spray £4.95 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk OPI Pro Spa Moisture Whip Massage Cream £8.40 + VAT/RRP £14.30 www.trade.opiuk.com

2. Long or badly cut toenails.

As their bump grows, pregnant clients may be unable to cut their own toenails, or struggle to cut them properly, leaving jagged edges and spikes. “Trim and file nails lightly – not too short – and round off any sharp edges,” explains Nicola O’Brian. “Deeper, embedded nails and spikes, or any signs of an infected ingrown toenail, need urgent referral to a podiatrist.” Ingrown toenails in pregnancy are common and can also be caused by the pressure brought on by swelling of the feet. Staleks Nippers £29.19 + VAT www.inknails.com

Glitterbels Nail Files 180 & 240-grit £1.20 + VAT each www.nailsbyannabel.co.uk

COURSE BITE

Comfort is key when it comes to pedicures, and that all starts with your pedicure chair. The Dream Pedicure Chair from REM is a stylish option, with an integrated basin with a retractable cover and hose. The pedicure station can be customised for your salon space, with a choice of any fabric and laminate from the REM range and additional products to add to the chair, such as the REM Dream Storage Link unit and Dream Pedi Stool.

REM Dream Pedicure Chair £POA. Available from wholesalers nationwide and www.rem.co.uk

3. Increased risk of skin & nail infections.

These can be a result of the client’s immune system being compromised, so minor skin abrasions are more prone to Footlogix Nail Tincture getting infected, as well as hormonal changes, which can Spray £11.95 + VAT lead to an imbalance in the production of skin oils. Care www.louellabelle.co.uk needs to be taken to avoid breaking the skin and hygiene is key, with thoroughly sterilised instruments playing a crucial role.

4. Dry skin caused by hormonal changes.

Swollen feet and weight gain also make it more likely that skin will dry out. Regular moisturiser application is recommended when clients can’t reach their feet. Abrasive chemical peels are advised against but gentle callus softening creams can be applied, just without the overuse of a foot file. Salon System GELLUX Nourish Foot Cream £9 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

CND™ Scentsations Lotion in Black Cherry & Nutmeg £5.25 + VAT/RRP £10.50 www.sweetsquared.com 46 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

OPI Pro Spa Intensive Callus Smoothing Balm £8.40 + VAT/RRP £17.20 www.trade.opiuk.com

Mii Cosmetics Heal + Protect Intense Heel Cream £8.25 + VAT/RRP £16.50 www.gerrardinternational.com

If your space is limited, consider one of the chic salon chair offerings from Glitterbels, in a choice of grey or pink fabric with silver or gold rotating legs. Glitterbels Salon Chair £119.99 + VAT www.nailsbyannabel.co.uk

FOOTCARESERVICES

4. Toenail trauma

Teresa Frake

“Hygiene is the most important part of any treatment, especially pedicures,” comments Clare Hooson. “It’s important to remember that bacteria multiply very quickly. Imagine if a foot spa wasn’t cleaned efficiently between clients – think how much bacteria could be harbouring in there that could cause an infection.”

Teresa Frake, LCN trainer, explains that there are four common toenail issues: ridged toenails, ingrown toenails, damaged toenails and fungal toenails. For ridged toenails, which can occur because of illness, medication or vitamin deficiency, Teresa advises using a ridge filler product instead of a base coat to smooth the nail surface.

Entity Rubber Base Gel £14.95 + VAT www.thecreativebeautygroup.co.uk CND™ RidgeFX

For damaged toenails, like those £4.95 + VAT/RRP £11.95 seen on clients actively involved www.sweetsquared.com in sports, Teresa recommends that nail techs carefully treat the nails and recommend aftercare products that may help, as long as there is no infection. Often, a reconstruction product can be applied to rectify the nail and conceal damage, even if there is no nail present – however it is important that techs use a designated toenail gel. LCN offers the Wilde-Pedique system to reconstruct toenails.

How it works

LCN’s Wilde-Pedique Silver Plus gel is applied first. When cured, it bonds to the toe and hardens to create a surface similar to a nail, which can be painted after. Connex Silver Plus maximises adhesion of Wilde-Pedique and other LCN gels to the nail plate, and Wilde-Pediseal is the top coat used. LCN Wilde-Pedique Silver Plus £17.30 + VAT www.lcnuk.co.uk

Sanitisation

LCN Wilde-Pediseal £18.70 + VAT www.lcnuk.co.uk

Disposables, from the gloves, face masks and aprons you wear to the files, towels and pedicure bowl liners you Mundo Foot Spa & use, are key to preventing this bacterial Water Line Cleaner growth, explains Pamela Brawn. For £14.95 + VAT items that cannot be disposed of, such www.mundoproducts.co.uk as metal tools, their disinfection in-between each client is crucial and should include heat treatment, along with sealing sanitised items into sterile packaging. However, it’s not just equipment that needs to be disinfected for a pedicure: sanitising clients’ feet is crucial as well. If a client’s feet have an unpleasant smell, this can be Nigel Rouse attributed to bacteria, which if not treated can thrive and become a potential health risk, explains Nigel Rouse, brand owner of hygiene and infection control product range, Mundo Professional. He recommends using Mundo’s Sanitizing Hand & Food Spray for the first stage of the pedicure to kill bacteria and refresh the client’s feet. Mundo Sanitizing Hand & Foot Spray £6.95 + VAT www.mundoproducts.co.uk

Fume & dust extraction

LCN Connex Silver Plus £16.20 + VAT www.lcnuk.co.uk

COURSE BITE

Training courses are available countrywide for LCN’s Wilde-Pedique Pedicure and toenail re-construction. The education lasts one day. For further information, contact Pro10 Beauty Ltd on 0208 187 1216 or via sales@pro10beauty.co.uk. Fungal toenails should not be treated or coated in product. The client should be referred to a podiatrist. “If the infected client has put their feet in a foot bath or come into contact with any tools, the items must be disinfected immediately as this can very easily cross contaminate,” explains Teresa Frake. “Fungal nails can start as a yellowish colouring at the edge of the toenail and then progress to the whole nail, eventually lifting the nail from the nail bed. They can be tender and the nail can become a ‘woody’ texture and peel away,” she adds. Nail techs can help avoid fungal nails by correctly and hygienically applying and removing products, not allowing the nail plate to lift or crack and let fungus in.

LCN Myskosept Spray £5.25 + VAT www.lcnuk.co.uk

Footlogix Cleansing Wipes (50pk) £30 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

“Fume and dust extraction systems are essential for the health of practitioners. This is because footcare procedures tend to generate a number of dust particles, from both the nails and the skin, including fungal elements,” says Paul Paul Riddick Riddick, technical sales director of fume and dust extraction manufacturer, Vodex. “All of these particles get into the lungs and can lead to disorders like asthma and rhinitis [inflammation of the inside of the nose].” He recommends Vodex’s ChiroPOD UVC® extraction system, which is designed to remove, sterilise and filter fumes and dust created during footcare services.

ChiroPOD UVC® complete system £1950 + VAT www.vodex.co.uk

>> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 47

FOOTCARESERVICES

Luxury touches

5. Dry/callused feet

“A luxury pedicure can involve extending the foot massage to the knee or spending longer performing the massage routine to relax and indulge clients,” comments Samantha Kendrew, Samantha Kendrew Gerrard International’s training & development manager. “Hot booties, towels or stones could also be added into your pedicure treatments to help relax the client and increase circulation and penetration of foot products into the nails and skin.”

“Dry and callused feet are often caused by friction and pressure from standing, walking or poorly fitted shoes. In the winter months, feet become more dehydrated and cause the appearance of dry and callused skin to look a lot worse,” explains Stella Cox, head of education at RE:NEW Beauty. For those looking for a long-term solution for dry and callused feet that avoids rasping the foot, Stella recommends the Elim MediHeel system. Its Callus Tonic contains active ingredients that change the pH of the skin, breaking down dead skin so it can be easily removed. “You can leave the Callus Tonic on for less time if the client needs a lighter treatment, or if they have very hard skin you can wrap the feet once the tonic is applied to intensify the treatment,” she adds. The Callus Tonic is paired with a pH Neutralizer, which prevents the active ingredients from continuing to peel the skin after the treatment is complete, as well as the Elim MediHeel Foot Perfector, which locks in moisture to maintain the results of the tonic. Stella Cox

Jessica Cosmetics Thermal Pedicure Booties £37 + VAT www.gerrardinternational.com

PRODUCT PICKS

Elim MediHeel Tonic Solution £55 + VAT www.renewbeauty.co.uk

Elim MediHeel Foot Perfector £14.10 + VAT www.renewbeauty.co.uk Elim MediHeel pH Neutralizer £14.60 + VAT www.renewbeauty.co.uk

PRODUCT PICKS

Zenspa Intense Hydrating Heel Repair Crème £8.30 + VAT www.gerrardinternational.com ‘ Vanilla Manipedi Peacci Mask £15 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

Mii Remove + Smooth Callus Peel from £12.50 + VAT/RRP £25 www.gerrardinternational.com

Footlogix Very Dry Skin Formula £11.50 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

Black Footsie Bath of Beverly Hills £149.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

OPI Pro Spa Advanced Softening Socks £3.50 + VAT/RRP £8 www.trade.opiuk.com Peacci‘ Manipedi Scrub £9 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com Kinetics SPA Pro Callus Spray £15 + VAT www.bellabooprobeauty.co.uk www.kineticsnails.co.uk

The Nail Lab The Cube eFile £225 + VAT & Sanding Caps (10pk) £5 + VAT www.tnluk.co.uk

All That Jazz Stainless Steel Foot File £9.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

Staleks Metal Foot Rasp £8.33 + VAT & Refill Pads 180-grit £5 + VAT www.inknails.com

48 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Mii Cosmetics Refresh + Revive Foot Spritz £9 + VAT/RRP £18 www.gerrardinternational.com

Tool up!

The Nail Lab The Sydney (Nail Clipper) from £20 + VAT www.tnluk.co.uk

Halo Elite Cuticle Pusher £14.95 + VAT www.purenails.co

The LOVASKIN Instant Foot Peeling Spray works at speed to remove dead skin and calluses, softening rough skin in just one minute, ready to be filed away. LOVASKIN Essentials Kit (25 applications) £32.08 + VAT www.purenails.co

Halo Elite Cuticle Nippers £19.95 + VAT www.purenails.co

FOOTCARESERVICES

6. Clients undergoing chemotherapy “Chemotherapy can have many side effects on skin and nails. Skin can become very dry, sore and chapped and nails can become extremely fragile and brittle; it’s easy to damage the nails, and some lose their nails temporarily,” explains Jennifer Young, founder Jennifer Young of Jennifer Young Training and Beauty Despite Cancer, a skincare line for those affected by cancer. “Most importantly, chemotherapy compromises the individual’s immune response, making them highly vulnerable to infection.” Jennifer details four things to consider if performing a pedi on a client undergoing chemo: 1. Get educated about infection cross control and oncology touch treatments. There are a variety of courses at Jennifer Young Training to help you feel informed about treating vulnerable clients. Find out more via www.jenniferyoungtraining.com. “We empower therapists and clients and focus on what can be done, rather than what can’t. We provide some basic knowledge in the biology of cancer and cancer treatments, we inform about the products that we use and why certain ingredients are avoided or included, and we explain the treatment protocols and how to adapt them for different clients and their needs.” 2. Avoid using tools. “If you can’t avoid using tools, gift them to the client or ensure the highest sanitisation standards.” 3. Use gentle products to aid support. “You want to support nails rather than applying anything that could damage them. Abrasive products, glues and anything that will strip them or dry the skin is best avoided.” 4. Think about how you can enhance the treatment to support your client. “Consider adding reflexology to the pedicure service.” Jennifer Young Wellbeing Beauty Foot Soak £25 inc VAT www.beautydespitecancer.com

Jennifer Young Defiant Beauty Nail Mask £15 inc VAT www.beautydespitecancer.com

Jennifer Young Defiant Beauty Mild Mint Foot Balm £20 inc VAT www.beautydespitecancer.com

Aftercare

Recommend accessible aftercare products to keep your client’s feet and nails healthy and hydrated. “In between pedicure treatments I always advise my clients to use homecare products to prolong the results. “We should be advising on the care for feet in the same way we advise skincare,” says Clare Hooson. She recommends clients use Footlogix’s Foot Soak to cleanse, soften and hydrate their feet, before using Footlogix’s Retail Foot File to quickly remove and reduce callused areas. ‘ Peach Manipedi Peacci cream £10 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

Pamela Brawn always recommends a good moisturiser for client aftercare: “Feet are often neglected and more so Light Elegance Q& Lu in colder months. A good Bamboo Lotion £8.95 moisturiser can help +VAT/RRP £20.95 keep the skin soft www.sweetsquared.com and supple.”

INK London Nail & Cuticle Oil – Fresh £2.08 + VAT www.inknails.com

Footlogix Foot Soak Concentrate £12.50 + VAT & Retail Foot File £39.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

POPULAR PICKS Nod to trending hues with a shade to match this year’s Pantone; Very Peri. Find more inspiration on page 28! Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish in Picture Pur-fect £16.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

Recap: when & how to refer

“As professionals, we should always use the three R’s – recognise: skin conditions and concerns, recommend: a service or product to help treat the condition, and refer: to a specialist if it is necessary,” comments Clare Hooson. “If someone presents with a nail that you think is fungal, politely recognise this, say to your client: ‘do you see where your nail is discoloured here and very thick? It looks as though it could be fungal, so I recommend that we avoid/tailor this treatment. I would suggest referring you to see a GP or specialist for confirmation and further treatment of the nail’.” “Covering the problem without any treatment will only further worsen the situation, but when referring we need to be super sensitive,” adds Magda Gniewek. “I usually say – because I don’t have the medical knowledge or tools to treat this specific condition, it is better to check it with a specialist. It’s a good practice to have a cooperating chiropodist, then you can refer your client to a place you know and trust.” Signs of infection that require referral: redness, swelling, discharge, pain (not always present in diabetic clients who can have altered sensation to the feet) and loss of function.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 49

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EDUCATIONNAVIGATION

FLEXI learning Leeds-based salon owner, LAURA COSTELLO, shares her Academy 2 learning journey as she gets to grips with the CND™ PLEXIGEL system

agDoll Nails owner, Laura Costello, has always been a fan of the CND™ brand. Her foray into the nail world kicked off with the CND™ Complete course in 2013 via Sweet Squared. She enjoyed it so much that she changed her plans from that of a nail hobbyist to become a full-time pro, and as her client base grew over the years, she moved from a small studio to a spacious location in Leeds City Centre.

Find out more about the new PLEXGEL Builder shades on page 19

“I first noticed the CND™ brand when I joined my mum at her nail appointments,” Laura reveals. “I was fascinated by how CND™ L&P was applied by her nail professional every fortnight and as my interest in nails grew, I discovered Sweet Squared. I was drawn to the focus the company puts on high quality education and its relationships with pros, as well as with the CND™ brand. “It’s of the utmost importance to me to use products that are safe and reliable in my salon, and I get that sense of security with CND™ products and Sweet Squared’s training.”

52 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

On learning about Academy2, the education epicentre from Sweet Squared launched last autumn, Laura seized the opportunity to enhance her knowledge of CND™ PLEXIGEL, the brush-in-a-bottle system that aids strength, protects nails and supports long wear. Academy2 combines online learning, in-classroom hours and masterclasses to personalise the learning journey. “It can be difficult to arrange time for training outside of busy salon life, so the way the platform splits courses between home-based and in-person learning minimises my time away from clients,” Laura explains. “I was able to carry out the theory for my chosen course at my own pace around my commitments, and the time I did take away from the salon was dedicated to in-person, practical training. I believe this is essential, as face-to-face time with Sweet Squared’s education ambassadors is invaluable. You can hone and recognise so many things in the classroom that you can’t in a virtual session, and the way Academy2 balances these approaches means that I can manage my learning without compromising on its quality.”

EDUCATIONNAVIGATION

Inside Academy 2 The course

“I chose the SWITCHING.2 PLEXIGEL course as I wanted to understand the CND™ PLEXIGEL system properly and ensure my application and knowledge was up to scratch. Although I have previously tried PLEXIGEL, the timing of its launch between lockdowns meant that I hadn’t had the opportunity to fully understand the differences between the products in the system. I wanted to explore how PLEXIGEL would fit into the service offering at RagDoll Nails, so I thought it would be a good choice for my first Academy2 experience.”

Enrolment

STAGE 1: Online learning

“Signing onto an Academy2 course is so straightforward. Sweet Squared lists all its courses on-site with an overview of the product or system, the kit included, what’s needed and application requirements. You simply add the course to your basket, check out, and await welcome emails which contain a link to the platform. You can then set up your account and begin the course straight away if desired.”

“To unlock the PLEXIGEL course, I had to first complete a health & safety module which detailed fundamental topics such as salon hygiene, medical conditions and rules and regulations. I was then able to move onto the PLEXIGEL course. “The online content was very in-depth and contained short tests to complete at each stage. After introducing PLEXIGEL and its components; Bonder, Shaper, Builder and Protector Top Coat, it detailed consultation and prep practices, supporting with demo videos which, as a visual learner, I found very helpful. “The next stage focused on the science behind the system, including polymerisation, curing and how to manage exothermic reactions. This built a foundation of knowledge before I moved onto the application processes for overlays, tips and forms, again accompanied by images and videos, which can be watched back multiple times. “The next stage of the course was a troubleshooting section, which detailed issues to consider and how to avoid them. Once complete, I was able to book my practical training day through the online system, which listed dates and locations.”

Next steps STAGE 2: Getting practical “The practical class supported everything I had learned in the online theory stage, referring back to the demo videos I had watched. It gave me the chance to put my knowledge into practice with the support of EA, Victoria Trafford. “The flow of the class followed the storyline of the theory, so I began with prep before moving onto overlay, tip and form application with the Shaper and Builder, with Protector Top Coat to finish. I learnt so much from this classroom session as Victoria could monitor my work closely and not only advise on PLEXIGEL application, but offer additional tips.”

“Following the practical class, I am required to produce case studies in order to complete the course and earn my certificate. Again, this can be done at my own pace, however having completed the theory and practical, I am eager to complete the course and receive my certificate.”

Final thoughts

“I really enjoyed the structure of the course. Carrying out the theory in my own time prior to the practical session gave me the chance to digest the information, so I felt comfortable going into the classroom. “SWITCHING.2 PLEXIGEL has shown me how the different products in the system can solve issues we come across in the salon, for example Shaper can be used to resolve a break in the natural nail. The course has also given me the chance to brush up on my knowledge of health & safety. “The platform is so easy to use and there are great features, including the ‘Progress’ tab, which showed the stages of the course completed. I found this really helpful when planning my schedule for the week. Academy2 has been designed with the learner in mind and I felt the support of the education ambassadors while I was learning at my own pace.” To find out more about Academy2 courses & how to enrol, visit www.sweetsquared.com/academy2 /sweetsquared @sweetsquared.nails Sweet Squared Follow Laura Costello:

/ragdollnails

@ragdollnails SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 53

Getting down to s s e n i s u b SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Take note as the NATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FEDERATION serves up support & advice for beauty business owners

NHBF’s essential advice for your business in 2022 About the NHBF

The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) is the UK’s largest trade body for businesses in the hair, beauty and barbering industries. The National Hair Federation launched its sister trade association for the beauty industry (NBF) in 2018, and the body relaunched as the NHBF in 2019. With Richard Lambert as the chief executive, the association provides specialist business support, advice and backup to hair and beauty businesses. Honing over 75 years’ experience, the not-forprofit organisation aims to be a reliable source of information for you and your business.

“Offer treats and deals to your regular clients as it is often more expensive and time-consuming to find new clients.” www.nhbf.co.uk @nhbfsocial

/nhbfsocial @nhbfsocial

54 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

new year brings new opportunities, so setting goals is one of the most important activities you can do as a business. Regardless of how old your business is, where you are located and the type of service you provide, here are the NHBF’s two pieces of advice to consider in 2022:

The right pricing

Make sure that the prices you are charging for products and services are realistic. Your prices must cover your costs and deliver a profit, so don’t be afraid to increase your prices on an annual basis to cover your outgoings. A cashflow forecast is vital. Top tips: • Reduce your costs by cutting back on stock or wastage and negotiating better deals from your suppliers and landlord. NHBF members can download a factsheet that details information about negotiating with your landlord via www.nhbf.co.uk/landlords. • Boost your retail sales. Read a blog post about how to make your salon retail-savvy on the NHBF website. • Encourage clients to book another appointment before they leave. • Offer special deals and discounts at quiet times. • Offer treats and deals to your regular clients as it is often more expensive and time-consuming to find new clients. • Keep up-to-date with the latest trends and what clients want from their nail or beauty service. • Make the most of social media and email marketing opportunities. • Ensure you have a great website. Read the NHBF’s tips for building a website at www.nhbf.co.uk/create-website. • Give your clients an incentive to refer a friend.

Salon reception styling

When it comes to your salon reception area, little things can make a significant difference. You’ll want to make a fabulous first impression as soon as your clients walk through the door so they immediately feel welcome, relaxed and pampered before their appointment has even begun. Your reception area should offer the ‘wow’ factor and reflect your branding and business personality, whether it’s retro, rustic, luxury, minimal or quirky. Plan the location of your reception area – avoid being near a draughty doorway, especially if the seating area is nearby. Top tips: • Think carefully about the type of ‘mood’ lighting you want to have in your reception and waiting area – but remember it needs to be bright enough for your receptionists to work and for clients to sort payments. • Make sure your reception desk is big enough to support your receptionist’s needs and has plenty of hidden storage space. • Fresh flowers and an attractive bowl of sweets are simple add-ons that will make a big difference. • Avoid storing retail products behind the desk as this creates a ‘barrier’ that may put clients off browsing and buying.

Download the NHBF’s comprehensive guide to successful interior design via www.nhbf.co.u/nhf-shop/salon-design-guide

GEL IN A BOTTLE

Fiber Coat Gel

In addition to a cross-linking molecular structure, Fiber Coat Gel contains fiber particles that make the gel feel firmer during working and wear. You can make very thin nails that are incredibly strong. Fiber Coat Gel hardly flows and can be applied very precisely. Fiber Coat Gel adheres well to the natural nail because of the cross-linked molecular structure and can be bufed to a high shine.

Fiber Coat Gel The universal gel that offers the perfect balance between flexibility and hardness thanks to the added fiber particles. Can be used on almost any natural nail. Fiber Coat Gel can be applied very easily and precisely because the gel flows minimally during working. The chance of lifting because the gel touches the cuticle is hereby limited. You can apply Fiber Coat Gel in different ways.

Pink 104155

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White 104156

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

READERS GALLERY

Talented tech, LATISHA ANTOINE, showcases her nail styling skills & shares tales of admiration, ambition & technique

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

Name – Latisha Antoine Age – 28 years Business name – Nails By Tish

secondary education. However, I enjoy it so much that I hope to continue to improve and expand my knowledge and qualifications so I can offer more services in the near future. I’d love to enhance my my content creation and buy a house with an extra room for a home salon.

Location – Walthamstow, East London Years in nails – One year, eight months Trained with – Next Step Beauty and Glitterbels. Product picks – I am a brand ambassador for Glitterbels and love its products. The sparkle in the pre-mixed glitter acrylic powders and loose glitters is sensational, and I really enjoy working with the Unbelievabel gel range. I also work with gel liners to create nail art designs quickly and easily. Top technique – I use blooming gel for marble designs which creates an eyecatching look. I choose to cap all my marble designs in clear L&P acrylic for a long-lasting finish. Favourite nail design – Anything that includes marbling and glitter! I like embossing nail art with a fine loose glitter. Career ambition & vision – I started my nail journey during the first lockdown in March 2020 and my intentions were to keep it as a hobby as I work full-time in

Who do you admire in the industry? There are so many people in the industry who inspire me but Elize Star (@elize_nails) has played such a big part in my nail journey, especially during lockdown, by creating various nail challenges. These challenges pushed me out of my comfort zone, encouraged me to try new styles and built up my confidence. Elize encourages and supports upcoming nail techs and is such a genuine, talented woman. I also really appreciate Annabel Maginnis (@nails_by_annabel_m), who chose me to be a brand ambassador for Glitterbes, as creating content using its products has enhanced my skills. Lastly, a special mention must go to my nail tech bestie who I admire, Christina (@xtensionsbyxtina), a fellow Glitterbels ambassador. We support, advise and encourage each other even though we have never met! Her work is so creative and her talent is amazing. nailsbytish_

@nailsbytish_

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 57

Notes from

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

The Beauty Guru Salon owner, Habia advisor & inclusivity awareness educator, SAM MARSHALL, serves up advice to better your business & ensure that it’s inviting to all

4 ways to be more gender inclusive in your nail business

1. Get educated Anyone that wants to use our services should be able to, regardless of their gender identity. You may not feel confident about treating someone who is gender diverse and may be concerned about offending them or saying the wrong thing. And that’s how we all start out. I made so many mistakes in the past when serving trans clients, but over the years I have asked questions, read articles and blogs and watched videos, and I now feel that I’m able to share my knowledge with others. If you are fortunate to already have some trans clients in your business, then they are a great source of information, but it isn’t their job to educate us. Although many are happy to help, it is far more likely SAVE they would rather be talking about the weather or THE DATE! where they went at the weekend. Sam is hosting Trans

2. Know the terminology

Awareness Training on 11 January @ 7pm. Scan to sign up

It can feel like a minefield when it comes to gender, particularly if you have never questioned your own gender. But know this: there are plenty of people that have, and they don’t always feel comfortable in salon environments. Language is constantly evolving and it is our responsibility to understand and respect the terminology that our clients may use. Here are the basic terms that will help you navigate the world of gender non-conformity: Gender identity – A personal sense of one’s own gender. This can match their sex assigned at birth or differ from it. Trans – An umbrella term whereby someone’s gender identity differs from what they were assigned at birth. Cisgender – When your gender identity matches the gender you were assigned at birth. Non-binary – Not identifying with either male or female gender. Trans man – A man assigned female at birth, who has the opposite gender identity. Trans woman – A woman assigned male at birth, who has the opposite gender identity.

3. Diversify your social media

You may look at your business and think ‘hey, we welcome everyone,’ when in reality you may be sending out messages that exclude certain people. By not using a diverse range of images on your social media platforms, you are potentially deterring clients who may be looking 58 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

MY MUSING for a welcoming space. When The Brit Awards organisers was the last time you showed have removed gendered terms from a manicure on a cisgender the awards categories, so is it time to male or a trans woman? How take a stand across other sectors? In nail about a person of colour? competitions, it’s rare to see gendered Or someone disabled? categories but we do see them in the hair By adding a variety of images, you are rolling sector, with the likes of ‘Men’s out the welcome mat for Hairdresser of the Year’. So many that person to book women have short hair and men an appointment. have longer hair, so I don’t feel we need to define

Another angle to consider is that by gender. some trans people hide their gender identity. Saying ‘we are trans aware’ on your website and social platforms enables everyone to feel that they can be their true selves.

4. Consider your treatment menu terminology

Do you deter non-binary/trans clients from being able to select a service because they have to choose a gendered treatment? This can be really tricky for those who don’t identify as either male or female. If you offer a gents manicure or pedicure, remove the gender and replace it with ‘no polish’ or use phrasing such as ‘bare manicure’, ‘gym manicure’ or ‘detox pedicure’. We all have our own language and tone, so use what works for you and you can detail what is involved in the treatment description.

BUSINESS TIP

I wish that my younger salon owner self would have invested in a business coach or joined a coaching community. I now have three coaches! They can be as costly or cost effective as you choose; I had free coaching courtesy of a local initiative over lockdown, funded by Manchester Council. Opportunities do exist, so consider your budget and you will reap the rewards. www.thebeautyguru.me /Beautygurumediacity @thebeautygurusalon @beautygurusam

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NAILTALES

EMMA HOBDAY explores the origins of nail colour & artistry & the trends & shapes that proved popular each decade…

NAIL STYLING

through the ages

ail style can be so many things: bold, beautiful, empowering, subtle, fun, and can offer clients a confidence boost or a moment of joy when they look down at their decorated fingertips.

Creativity at its finest, nail art, especially, serves up 10 tiny ways to express emotion or style through the likes of hand-painted and elaborate designs, embellishments, decals, wraps, glitters and more. It seems that the phenomenon of nail art has only just begun, as there is always more to learn with the addition of products, techniques and further training.

But when did nail styling start making its mark? How did it all start, where and by whom? “Nail colour has been present for more than 5000 years, originally Helena Biggs in the form of ‘lacquer’ made from beeswax and flowers by the Chinese, and henna was used to stain the nails by the Egyptians to signify social order,” says Helena Biggs, author of Nail Art: Inspiring Designs by the World’s Leading Technicians, Technicians and managing editor of Scratch.

Sam Biddle

Sam Biddle, nail art educator, expert, mentor, and author of Nail Art Secrets: The Workbook for Nail Artists, agrees that social status has played a large role in nail styling. “Gold and silver were for those of royal descent in 1300 BC, but later this changed to black and red. Using pigments instead

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of dyes changed the industry dramatically, creating a range of new colours and giving way to creativity and nail art.”

Marian Newman

Marian Newman BEM says that Far Eastern cultures displayed their position in society by growing their nails to extreme lengths. “The ability to grow nails or wear extended decorations on fingers is meant to show that the person does not do any manual work, and has servants or slaves to attend to all of their needs.”

Fast-forward to the 1920s, and nail painting became popular, thanks to glamorous movie stars and pin-up girls showcasing painted nails. But who brought nail polish to market? You can thank skilled salesman and businessman, Charles Revson, who invented ‘nail enamel’ in the 1930s, after taking inspiration from the colours and chemistry of car paint. In 1932, he, along with brothers Martin and Joseph Revson and chemist Charles Lachman, founded beauty giant, Revlon.

“It seems that the phenomenon of nail art has only just begun, as there is always more to learn i with the addition of products, techniques and further training.”

NAILTALES “Acrylic sculpted nail extensions then followed traditional nail polish, after the accidental invention of acrylic for nails by dentist, Frederick Slack, in 1957,” says Helena. You read that right – one of today’s most popular nail styles is Frederick Slack due to a dentist fixing a split on his thumbnail. Not one for simply sticking a plaster over the cut, Frederick used a combination of aluminium foil and dental acrylic to make a clear, hardened substance to fix the nail, which would later go on to be patented as the first nail form.

Sam Biddle lists what trends, shapes and colours were popular throughout the decades…

1920s: The Luna look was everywhere in this decade: nail polish was being mass produced and it was fashionable to only paint the middle of the nails, leaving the moon and/or tips a natural colour.

Nails by @selah_rest

Evolving to enhancements

1930s: Women in this decade would pair their lipstick and nail polish colours together, generally in a bold red, pale rose, or subtle cream shades. Sometimes the tips would be painted with a gold, silver or opalescent shade. 1940s: Cosmetics became more affordable and so were worn more regularly. To keep their nails protected while operating heavy machinery, women used clear coats of lacquer and base coats. These products were marketed towards keeping nails strong and healthy while working and a popular style was short nails with a layer of natural pink polish.

1950s: Post war returned a feminine, glamorous style, with longer bold red nails and the launch of L&P acrylic for nail enhancements by dentist Frederick Slack in 1957.

1960s: Inspired by the many social movements, make-up was centred around the eyes, and women wore nail colours that were more subdued, such as light pastel shade. Since then, a whole new world of artistry and creativity has exploded onto the market, and nail styling has been incorporated into everyday living – whether a simple shade or an elaborate design, it’s been proven time and time again that there is something for everyone.

1970s: This is when the French manicure became popular; a

Not only that, but this fast-moving industry is forever coming up with new products, techniques and effects to keep both nail professionals and nail clients coming back for more.

1980s: Anything went in the 80s, including bright colours with every nail painted a different hue. Neon greens, yellows and blues, which hadn’t been seen on nails before, became the norm.

• The most expensive bottle of nail polish in the world is made by Azature, featuring 267 carats of crushed black diamonds. It costs $250,000. • Nails grow 3-4mm a month, and men’s nails typically grow faster than women’s nails. • A bottle of Cutex nail polish cost 35 cents in 1934. • Don’t try painting your nails on a flight, as most airlines won’t allow it! • If you place a piece of your fingernail in Coca Cola, it will allegedly dissolve in four days. • Red nail polish was considered scandalous and promiscuous in the 1950s, so much so that some churches banned women if they had painted nails. • Hate the ‘nails on a chalkboard’ sound? The reason why is that the noise hits a frequency that is naturally amplified by the shape of our ear canals. • The word ‘manicure’ comes from the Latin word ‘manus’, meaning hand, and cura, meaning care.

@beautyboutiquebyvictoria

1990s: Bold nail art sported by female rappers led the way for nail styles we see as commonplace today. Short, dark nails were seen in popular films and inspired a new trend.

2000s: During the recession, nail art was used as a form of affordable expression. This decade saw the addition of wraps, glitter, studs, jewels, stickers, water slides, textured nail polishes and metallic shades, along with hand painted nail art, worn with a lot of make-up and glossy lips. 2010s: Individuality is key – there is a style, nail shape, length, and nail colour for everybody. It has never been easier to express ourselves and change up a nail look. New nail art launches help clients and techs explore new ways to be seen and stay on-trend. 2020s: So far, a new take on the French, ‘jelly’ nail art, Japanese Kawaii nail art, swirls, animal print, and mismatched nails have reigned supreme!

Instagram.com/ricekittynails

FACT FILE

@malaczarnaartstudio

“One of today’s most popular nail styles is due to a dentist fixing a split on his thumbnail.”

natural, polished look that went with anything was how most women of this decade wanted to wear their nails. Supported by television and film, people were influenced by what stars of the screen were wearing.

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INDUSTRYEVENT

EXPLORING & ENHANCING

The second week-long Nail Safari event saw industry pros adventure to a zoo in Cambridgeshire for five days of fun, insight & fabulous nail styling ALEX FOX REPORTS To the delight of the 33 nail professionals who’d signed up for it, the long-awaited second edition of Nail Safari was held back in November. This event saw four teams; Red Panda, Clouded Leopard, Tiger and Aardvark, inspired and coached by team leaders Sabrina Malik, Cat Leith, Marian Newman and Jennie Nippard. A completely unique gathering, this five-day nail education event (hosted by the FNP chair, Marian Newman BEM, educator and session stylist Jennie Nippard, and editor, Alex Fox) brought a fresh flavour to learning. This second edition of Nail Safari hosted up to three educators each day, which over the course of five days presented a wealth of techniques, styles, art, advice and tips from well-known and respected names in the nail industry. In the words of guest educator and champion tech Mino Vo, “Nail Safari was an experience; not a class, not a campus. I can only describe it as the nail industry’s equivalent to Disneyland. Not only was it educational, but we enjoyed hands-on animal experiences. I got to walk through a bat cave and feed a giant tortoise; one of my favourite creatures! “It didn’t feel like I was teaching. The team and delegates made it feel like I’d known everyone for years. I loved every single moment of the experience and couldn’t stop smiling all the way back to London. It’s definitely a memory I will cherish forever.”

“Nail Safari, in a word, is unique. To host an artistic event in such a vibrant location marries a nail pro’s creative flair with inspirational thirst. The team behind the scenes does an incredible amount of work to educate and excite the attendees through inimitable visitors and fun quests. We feel it’s hugely important to support an event that is there to teach and inspire the nail pro in unique ways. Education is, after all, at the heart of everything we do and it just makes us better at our craft. Thank you to Alex, Jennie and Marian; Team Nail Safari. Love and respect to you all and the fabulous attendees, too.” The Sams of Sweet Squared 64 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

INDUSTRYEVENT

DAY 1

A busy schedule of classes saw delegates, or ‘rangers’, take their seats by 9.15am for a welcome introduction from Marian Newman, who outlined the essence of the event before the first class kicked off. Sam Biddle showcased the use of inks in nail art. This class was veiled in a bittersweet shroud when Sam announced it was her last nail class due to retiring from the nail industry. A powerful exit to an incredible international nail career, each delegate was delighted to get the opportunity to learn from Sam’s vast wealth of nail art wisdom during the three-hour session. Sam was followed by Cat Leith who demonstrated her take on commercial nail art styles, showcasing popular swirls and ombrés to jazz up the nail. To close the first day, Georgie Smedley and daughter, Jazz Christodoulou, gave an insight into the Gelish Soft Gel system and gifted each ranger with an intro kit and lamp before giving an Aeropuffing demo. “It was truly an honour to be invited to teach alongside so many other legends,” enthuses Georgie. “They all brought something different to the table, and with our combined goodies, the smiles on attendees’ faces were great to see. Their finished nails using our products were awesome and gave me a great sense of achievement, for which I’m thankful. “Nail Safari is truly unique and brings brands together to show attendees what the nail world has to offer; from the basics, right through to design and extreme nail shapes. What a great way to experience all of it, regardless of skill level.”

“Nail Safari is such a special experience and the 2021 Beast & Brush Safari exceeded all of our expectations. Nail Safari celebrates nail techs of all levels who are passionate about our wonderful industry. It’s an event that isn’t brand specific; everyone is welcome. We deliver the highest quality education in the most inspiring environment. Who gets to walk past tigers and lemurs on their way to work? I was blown away by the hard work, talent and enthusiasm of the rangers and the extreme skill of all the educators. I’m so excited for Nail Safari 2022!” Jennie Nippard

Exhausted from day one, delegates were given homework and safely guided out of the zoo.

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INDUSTRYEVENT

DAY 2

Day two opened with award-winning educator, Andreea Simona Ignat, who delivered an arresting class on correct form fitting. While Andreea had the floor, Fee Wallace was on a plane, en route to Stansted airport. Arriving well in time, Kay Dodd of the Nail Safari admin team swooped into Stansted, picked up Fee and delivered her in time for her class, Bang it Out with Fee. Bringing unbridled enthusiasm and positive energy to the scene, Fee put a refreshing spin on commercial nail art with her fiery and fun teaching flavour. Hanging around to chat with the students, Fee managed to network and get back to Stansted for 7pm in order to be back in Scotland later that night. The second day closed with an exciting look at the OPI Velvet Vision Magnetic Effects GelColor range. Belinda Price, OPI education & capability manager UK&I, was on hand to demo. She cites: “It was amazing to be a part of Nail Safari and wonderful to see so many nail professionals eager to learn. “My colleague, Elisha, and I visited to demonstrate the OPI Velvet Vision range and got to see some of the animals and other classes in action. I returned again on the Friday for a fun afternoon to judge the Runway Nails competition. It had an amazing atmosphere and it was clear that everyone had loved the week and learned lots, made new friends and flexed their creative muscles! It was great to see people after such little face-to-face contact for the last couple of years.”

“ Nail Safari was an amazing experience and I love that it had a unique setup; a zoo. All the delegates were amazing and I was happy to share and show my knowledge. It was such a pleasure to teach them. For me, I believe the Nail Safari experience was a step forward in my career and I’d love to be a part of it in the future.” Andreea Simona Ignat, educator

DAY 3

The team decided to give one educator the entire day to get deeply immersed into a chosen topic. Mino Vo was the delegated tutor, who began the day demonstrating how to invent and create an extreme nail shape using liquid & powder. At least two delegates had never used the system before and were astonished to find themselves sculpting with ardour. For the second half of this day, Mino showcased how to add art on top of the sculpted nail to craft and complete its look. Mino’s class was so well received and at the end of the day, Liz Dams from the education department of Shepreth Wildlife Park gave a talk on its conservation, sustainability and breeding programme ethos. This 90-minute divergence into animal conservation led to the delegates sponsoring 29 hedgehogs and raising over £600 for the hedgehog hospital operating onsite.

“After what has been such a difficult time for the nail industry, to see so many talented and enthusiastic nail techs in one room was so inspiring. It was a thoroughly fantastic week; full of energy and passion and I was honoured to be part of it.” Cat Leith, The Nail Studio St Ives, Cambridgeshire

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INDUSTRYEVENT

DAY 4

The fourth day of Nail Safari kicked off with industry expert, Hazel Dixon, in the teaching hot seat. With her own style of learning, Hazel created a step-by-step, so easy to follow that a Simba character was painted by all within Hazel’s three-hour teaching window. Following Hazel, another UK industry great, award-winning Gemma Lambert-Lewis of The Nail Team, gave the room a taste of speedy yet stylish Christmas designs to jazz up a December salon menu. Between Hazel and Gemma, the day afforded much creativity and skill stretching, before Marian Newman took to the floor and delivered new scientific evidence surrounding the emergence of allergies in the nail industry via her education portal, Nail Knowledge.

“This is the second Nail Safari I’ve attended and I was so impressed. It was amazing to see so many passionate nail techs looking to improve their skills and help one another. I saw so many people who were engrossed in what they were doing and pushing their boundaries much further than some of them thought possible. I arrived for the Friday session and it felt like I’d walked in on the first day, as everybody in the room was still so excited and enthusiastic. I think for a lot of nail techs who work alone, it is a fantastic setting to meet people in the industry and make some solid friendships. Beautifully organised by Alex, Marian, Jennie and Kay, it just gets better and better. I’m looking forward to Nail Safari 3 !” Maria Cientanni, Lecenté

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INDUSTRYEVENT

DAY

Starting with henna expert, Pavan Dhanjal BEM, the delegates got to see how easily stunning designs can be created using henna, thus presenting a new salon service idea for their menus. “Being involved in Nail Safari was amazing,” states Pavan. “I got to showcase henna and saw how easily the group of nail techs picked up the skill. It was such a unique event and the atmosphere, sights, animals and warmth from the staff made it an experience I will never forget.” While Pavan brought ideas to the rangers’ nail tables, Alex Fox and Kay Dodd rushed around the zoo in preparation for the next stage of events by hanging ribbons in the team colours all over the property. Meanwhile, Jennie and Cat organised runway fashion pieces including jewellery, shoes, boots, hats, scarves, dresses, blouses, trousers and jackets. Once Pavan completed her henna workshop, delegates were invited to wander the zoo looking for ribbons in their team colour. Team Panda was the first to find all of its 10 ribbons and return to base. Winning the ribbon challenge gave the team a first look at the runway fashion rail, where they were invited to take what they needed for their runway look. Each team was invited in order of returning to take their accessories and the last team was sadly left with a smaller choice for their catwalk looks. As an expert session stylist with many years running teams under her belt, Jennie Nippard hosted the next class and divulged the mechanics behind session work, giving hints and tips along the way. Jennie then delivered a brief; to design and create a set of five nails to reflect and complement the outfit chosen. An extremely fun activity to complete the week of learning, the room was buzzing with frenetic energy while runway nails were being crafted from a wealth of materials. Marian brought her entire session kit and invited techs to dive in and use whatever they deemed useful. This was a mini coup in itself. Special guests and sponsors arrived in time for the runway show to judge the nails and see the event for themselves. Samantha Sweet (Sweet Squared), Maria Cientanni (Lecenté), Helena Biggs (Scratch), Belinda Price (OPI) and Ryan Lanji of Nailphilia fame and his assistant Olivia, all sat in readiness to watch the show unfold. It was riddled with hilarious, fun-fuelled moments, while the nail rangers showcased amazing nail designs when sashaying down the catwalk to loud vibrant beats and a chorus of whistles, whoops and clapping.

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“Nail Safari was the best experience of my life. It was oozing knowledge and talent and I soaked it all up. It helped me believe in my abilities and led me to test the water in the competition world, too. Everyone was amazing; I made new friends and really didn’t want to go home – I loved it that much! I think most of us were crying at the end since we’d bonded so much. “The whole package was awesome and I’ll be forever grateful for this fabulous fun-packed week of nail education. It has got to be the most unique nail event ever and I will definitely be attending in 2022 and screaming about it from the rooftops! If you want a jam-packed, fun-filled week of nails, then Nail Safari is for you! It’s a super cool location and we got to feed some animals, too!” Laura Pote, Most Improved Nail Ranger of the Week

INDUSTRYEVENT The week is summed up monumentally in the words of Marian Newman: “At the end of the second Nail Safari (this time ‘Beast & Brush’) I have so many feelings; relief that it’s over as it’s quite hard work, sadness that it’s over, exhilaration reading the wonderful Facebook posts, joy seeing all the pictures, happiness that so many of the ‘nail rangers’ had such a memorable and life-changing experience and so much more. There were many tears! “Nail Safari has evolved into a totally unique learning and networking experience. We fuse fun with education; hysteria with challenges. Then we add the venue into the mix; Shepreth Wildlife Park, and the whole event becomes magical. There’s something very special about arriving each morning and walking through the zoo saying ‘good morning’ to red pandas, lemurs, aardvarks and tigers. There’s so much to be learned from animals and everyone took away a ’never to be forgotten’ animal experience. “Although the format was similar to our first Nail Safari, the content was completely different. There were different teachers, different skills and we even had some jaw-dropping magic from Magic Singh, Pavan’s husband. “One aspect I was especially pleased with was the number of nail rangers attending who were at educator level. Not only were they putting their trust in us to teach them something new, but they also sported the best attitude; that no one stops learning, however experienced. There’s always something new to be learnt. But it didn’t matter what level of experience everyone had or whether they only did UV gel and had never picked up an L&P brush, everyone was there to help each other and many new and life-long friendships were made during those five days. “Nail Safari 2022 is already in the planning stages. I don’t know how we will beat this one, but I can guarantee we will and a quarter of the places have been sold already. The safari team, zoo rangers and the animals will all be there to welcome the 2022 alumni.”

THE EDUCATORS, TEAM & GUESTS

SAVE THE DATE!

The 3rd Nail Safari, Paws & Claws, will run 21-25 November 2022 and cost £850 (payable monthly) at Shepreth Wildlife Park To book your place, email Alex Fox at nailympia@gmail.com or message @nailsafari on Instagram.

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Marian Newman BEM Jennie Nippard Alex Fox Kay Dodd Sabrina Malik Catriona Leith Pavan Dhanjal BEM Belinda Price Georgie Smedley Jazz Christodoulou Hazel Dixon Gemma Lambert-Lewis Andreea Simona Ignat Fee Wallace Mino Vo Sam Biddle Ryan Lanji Helena Biggs

Nail Safari would like to thank the 2021 sponsors, who between them gifted over £400 worth of products to each of the delegates, with amazing prizes also donated by Light Elegance, Glitterbels, Nail Knowledge & Lecenté.

/nailsafarieducationgroup

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SALONSPOTLIGHTS

Through the

Keyhole Take a peek inside salon setups across the UK as Scratch unlocks each door…

Annissa’s Beauty

Location: Poulton-le-Fylde, Blackpool Upon leaving college in October 2018 after deciding that pursuing law and history wasn’t her path, Annissa Colton embarked on a nail and beauty course. “I find doing nails so therapeutic and I love being creative. The career change was exactly I needed, especially following struggles with my mental health,” Annissa explains. “I started offering nail treatments from my living room but it never felt professional or personal. “When the pandemic hit, I decided to convert a room at the front of my house into a salon space. The process took quite a number of weeks as I revamped the floor, windows and walls but it was complete just before the beauty industry was allowed to re-open,” Annissa smiles. “The walls are pale pink and there is a laminated grey floor and lots of pretty floral decorative details. “Pink is a calming colour and I think it is important to have a theme and specific aesthetic running through your salon and social media, as it affirms recognition and shows you take pride in the appearance of your business,” she comments. “I feel that my salon space offers a high level of comfort and intimacy and I have made greater bonds with clients since being in my new space.” Annissa offers nail, lash and spray tan services and is een to work more closely with her favoured brands. “I would love to further my skills into all areas of beauty, and I am very excited about what’s to come. The nail and beauty community is a massive influence in my love for the industry – everyone is so helpful and supportive of one another.”

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@annisasbeauty

Nails by Coco

Location: Bournemouth, Dorset Kirsti Ware enrolled on a nail course after giving birth to her daughter. “I really struggled being a stay-at-home mum and needed to find something to do for me. I knew I wanted to build a career both for my benefit, and for my daughter.” Kirsti was presented with the opportunity to take over the salon she was working in and jumped at the chance. “I redecorated the space and put my own stamp on it. Coco’s Salon coming to life was a dream come true and fellow pros starting renting space in October 2020,” she reveals. Kirsti offers workshops from the space, which is occupied by one other nail tech and a team of beauty therapists. “The décor is a little bit quirky, bright and colourful and there is an holistic room which features incense and crystals,” Kirsti explains. “I knew before I started decorating that white and grey weren’t options for the space. I have bright pink hair so wanted to channel something that was a bit different. When I told people I was going to decorate using pink and green tones, they were a little bemused, but when it all came together it was very well received.” Hints of leopard print on cushions, ornaments and plant pots can be found in the space, and Kirsti likes to feel that the décor influences a positive, happy and empowering vibe. “Everyone that comes in loves the colours and the feature wall,” she reveals. “It is decorated with empowering and confidence-boosting quotes, which I chose carefully to reflect self-love and strong women. Encouraging women to love themselves is a focal point in the salon.” @ nailsby_coco_ 70 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

RADIANCE BEAUTY SPA WESTGATE, HALIFAX T: 01282 619 977

E: SALES@REM.CO.UK

W: WWW.REM.CO.UK

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

JUST ADD

20/21 WINNER

ABOUT ANNABEL

Annabel Maginnis studied fashion and make-up artistry in London before moving into the nail world in 2015. Her notable creative flair in the field saw her Instagram following skyrocket. Fuelled by momentum, she opened her own salon, Nails By Annabel, in Newcastle, and in 2017, supported by husband, Elliott, the duo launched Glitterbels – a professional range of nail products. In 2021, the business was awarded the Scratch Stars Shooting Star Award based on its growth, popularity and provision of education and products for pros.

www.nailsbyannabel.co.uk /Nailsbyannabelm & /GlitterbelsbyAnnabel @nails_by_annabel_m & @glitterbels /Nailsbyannabelm & /Glitterbels 72 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

r e t t gli Help your business sparkle & nail designs shine with advice & inspo from ANNABEL MAGINNIS, co-founder of Glitterbels MAGINNIS

2022: A time for progress

What if your aim is to make more money? The latter two options are both going to help you in that quest, but also having a real understanding about cost and knowing your worth are important in order to make a good living in this industry. Remember, your biggest competition is you. If you tell yourself you’re not worth more, then how will anyone believe you are?

If your aim is to fill more appointment slots, then be more proactive on social media. We have seen a considerable rise in viral accounts from the TikTok generation so start making videos to show your audience your nail styling process. Learn from other accounts and be inspired by the TikTok profiles that are amassing views and keeping an audience engaged.

If a client regularly shows up to their appointment clutching a latte or flat white then you can probably increase your prices by £3 per service. We don’t question what we pay when we visit a wellknown coffee chain or restaurant so don’t let anyone question you, your products or the service you offer. When you get into that mindset, you will see a huge shift in how you price your work. If at the end of the week or month you don’t have enough money to help towards stock and retraining, it’s vital that you reevaluate your prices.

Instagram is always popular with people seeking inspiration, so be sure to understand your algorithms via the ‘Settings’ section of your account. Also ensure that your posted images are clear, bright, and eye-catching so that you are showcasing your stunning creations at their best.

If you wish to expand your services, then let your clients help you decide and ask them what treatments they are interested in. When the same answer comes up multiple times, you know to invest in that option and research a top quality brand and educator to help bring this plan into fruition.

Ask yourself how you would like to progress in 2022 and work towards making it happen. If it involves saving for a training course that could perhaps speed up your initial application and allow you to focus on artistry, then set aside money each week to make it happen. Do your research and find an educator that you feel comfortable with and a brand that will support you on your journey.

Stay focused and make a plan. Remember, a goal without a plan is just a wish! So write it down, remain focused and make it happen.

tarting 2022 can be daunting as the last year presented a turbulent time for our industry. The prospect that we are still not fully ‘in the clear’ can make any tech question their place in our ever-growing sector. However, I still feel the same excitement when I consider what a new year means, and I think we should all look forward to being the best that we can be by planning ahead and focusing on bettering our skills and achieving our goals.

Here’s to a wonderful 2022. Take each day a step at a time and be kind to yourself and each other; we’re all on our own journey so follow your path and don’t stop believing that you can achieve great things.

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Party time! The Glitterbels team hosted an event at The Sheridan, Manchester to celebrate the launch of the brand’s hema-free gel polish range. In true Glitterbels style, the venue was decorated in pretty pink flowers and plenty of sparkle – with the company unicorn making an appearance.

Ambassadors showcased application of the new range and demos took place on stage while drinks and lunch were enjoyed. Head of education, Charli Jepson, hosted giveaways throughout the day, with the company gifting a stunning Glitterbels nail desk to seven attendees, and many more received vouchers to spend on products on the day.

“A goal without a plan is just a wish.” The hema-free gel polish range from Glitterbels offers smooth application and highly pigmented coverage in as little as one coat. Easy to apply, the shades are available in handy 8ml sizes and a further 200 hues will launch later this year. Standout shades include Custard Mustard, a mustard yellow, and Champagne Sparkle, a twinkling, glittering gold. Each bottle has a colour swatch at the top to pick easily from the work bag or when stored in a drawer, and joining the shades are hema-free prep and finish products in 17ml sizes; acid-free primer, base coat, dehydrator, Holo No Wipe top coat, No Wipe top coat, Rainbow No Wipe top coat and Tinsel No Wipe top coat.

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BUSINESSMATTERS

Reap through

Retail Intimidated by the idea of retailing products to clients? Lisa & Lou has stepped in to support with an online sales platform for pros. HELENA BIGGS learns more…

ne thing I hear from nail techs time and time again is, ‘I’m not a sales person, I struggle to retail.’ Sound familiar? Many of you may be recouping lost profits and considering new sources of revenue, so it can be frustrating if you lack confidence to ‘sell’ products or you don’t have the resources to commit. Step forward Lisa & Lou, an initiative created by the team at beauty distribution company, Louella Belle, to take the stress out of the sales process. Named after Lisa Crook, founder of Louella Belle, Lisa & Lou allows pros to generate extra revenue through the sale of retail products via an online platform. It serves to help you elevate your client’s treatment experience – without having to buy and carry large amounts of inventory. “Lisa & Lou empowers professional beauty therapists to take their business to the next level by allowing them to sell on their own terms without having to invest in or manage their own web shop,” explain Jamie Crook and Darren Crook, joint CEOs of Lisa & Lou. “Pros can recommend their favourite aftercare products to clients and generate extra revenue via guaranteed Jamie & Darren Crook commission on every product sold.”

How it works On signing up to Lisa & Lou, you become a ‘Pro Star’ and benefit from: • A unique link to direct customers to your very own web shop • An opportunity to earn a minimum of 25% commission on all retail sales • The chance to grow your own professional network and receive a bonus for all referrals • Training and marketing materials to support your new online retail business • A reliable shopping destination for clients to purchase aftercare products, endorsed and recommended by you • No set-up costs 74 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

“Pro Stars will also receive regular bonuses and incentives,” continue Jamie and Darren. “Mobile nail pros will benefit in a big way, as they can sell a full range of aftercare products without having to carry retail stock to appointments.” Customers can purchase through a Pro Star and receive exclusive discounts and product recommendations tailored to their needs. A streamlined offering of Louella Belle’s hero products and bestsellers for at-home use are available online, and more will be introduced over time to keep clients and pros excited. Jamie and Darren add: “We work closely with our customers and have witnessed the struggles they have faced in recent years amidst the Covid-19 pandemic. With salons forced to stay closed during lockdown, we did our best to support businesses by providing free online education. Now, we want to help our customers reach their full earning potential and have their own platform to share their favourite brands.

“Lisa & Lou empowers professional beauty therapists to take their business to the next level by allowing “We pride ourselves on supporting our customers them to sell on their at every step of their journey, regardless of their business size, and it is great that we can now have this own terms.” partnership with them, helping them take their business to the next level.”

BRANDSPOTLIGHT

ATYPICAL Artistry Keen to explore an innovative marketing method for its nail products, the Gelcare brand has teamed up with artist, Gab Bois, to create eye-catching & avant-garde imagery. EMMA HOBDAY finds out more...

Emilie Sanscartier

rench-Canadian nail artist and owner of the Le Manoir salon, Emilie Sanscartier, wasn’t satisfied with the nail brand she used day-to-day for her gel polish services. So, she decided to start the journey to launch her own range; Gelcare. “I wanted to create gel polishes that are on-trend, easy to apply and well designed,” she explains. “Before Gelcare, I was constantly mixing colours together in the salon to get exactly what I was looking for. Clients started asking for these colours regularly, and some of these initial mixes are now Gelcare colours.” To best promote the Gelcare brand and catch the eyes of clients and fellow pros, Emilie turned to Instagram and found Gab Bois, a fellow French-Canadian and visual artist, renowned for creating eyecatching looks with everyday objects. Her work has been commissioned by the likes of Nike, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga and Selfridges, and she was soon to add Gelcare to her impressive list of clients.

Gab Bois

“Being on my own a lot as an only child, I had to find creative ways to stay busy, and that often took the form of arts and crafts,” Gab reveals. “I see the work I do now as an extension of that childhood imagination.” Emilie reached out to Gab, with Gab revealing that she was thrilled to be contacted by the brand. “I was already a fan and customer – I was actually wearing one of Gelcare’s first colours, Water Lilies, when we first connected,” she smiles. Emilie explains that she wanted to work with Gab as she loved the talented artist’s ability to transform everyday objects from the mundane to memorable. “Her work alters things we have seen a thousand times into something we cannot forget. In a culture

76 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

where we are constantly blasted with new content, memorability is both difficult to achieve and essential in order to stand out. “Both Gelcare and Gab’s artwork pull from the same broad range of cultural reference points, using everything from technology to food.” Gab comments that she finds ideas and inspiration everywhere, but her creative process really takes off when she thinks about how the seemingly unrelated, relate. “Interactions with others, digital and physical trends, fashion, food, human anatomy, nature, and technology are all key sources of inspiration for me,” she says. She reveals that the creative collaborations with Gelcare begin with its seasonal colours. “The Gelcare team spends six months carefully developing each collection. Once the collection is ready, I am presented with a moodboard that highlights a vast array of imagery that inspired the shades. “My goal is to highlight these shades in a new way, bringing them into my visual universe while staying aligned with the Gelcare vision and aesthetic. I was given a lot of creative freedom and encouraged to think outside the box of a traditional beauty campaign,” Gab continues. Emilie’s excitement for the future of Gelcare is apparent. “We have two major projects in the works; we are developing our range of secondary products for customers to use during their manicures, such as cuticle

BRANDSPOTLIGHT

“Her work alters things we have seen a thousand times into something we cannot forget. In a culture where we are constantly blasted with new content, memorability is both difficult to achieve and essential to stand out.” oil, cuticle softener and gel polish remover. We are also developing a professional educational platform that will share the techniques that the Le Manoir salon has become renowned for over the past 10 years. We hope that this education will help elevate nail artists all over the world!” Learn more about Gelcare via www.lemanoir.com/en /gelcareofficial @gelcare.official Follow Gab Bois: /gabbybois

@gabbois

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 77

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

STYLE WITH

e i d a S

‘ Creative nail expert & content creator for TGB & Peacci, SADIE JORDAN, shares on-trend nail styles, tips & step-by-steps

Fresh start, fresh nails! When a grown-out glitter manicure is no longer sparking joy and is serving as a reminder that the festivities are over, it’s time to change things up. A New Year is an ideal time to try out a new style and this month, consider minimal and negative space nail designs. If your client seeks a splash of colour, encourage a wintry palette of desaturated cool tones paired with a neutral base. This new season mani might even last longer than some New Year resolutions!

Colour combos

Choosing a nail shade can seem like a daunting task. A friend of mine, make-up artist Rachel Todd (@RTmkup), captures images of landscapes and architecture from her travels and uses the eyedropper tool on Instagram to pick out colours from her snaps. Alternatively, you can use Google Images, Instagram or Pinterest to search for photos and artworks that emulate the mood you want to portray. For example, to create the perfect wintry palette I searched online for a ‘winter horizon’ because I felt it visually represented new beginnings. After finding an image I liked, I opened it on Instagram as if I was going to post it to my story, then dragged the colour picker from the draw tool over the photo to select some colours. You can then match them to nail shades in your collection or custom mix hues for a perfect match.

STEP BY STEP: The Negative Space Double French This modern spin on a classic look boasts a chic yet futuristic aesthetic that’s perfect for kicking off the year in style. The Detail Brush is my go-to product; I love how thin and precise it is and the level of control it affords while freehand painting. The white TGB shade Daisy, is so opaque that one coat is enough to achieve even coverage, which is ideal for tip designs like this one. Silk from the Sheer Simplicity collection is like the gel polish twin of my favourite BIAB™, Teddy, which makes it ideal to use as a natural base on any negative space designs, especially if you’re not confident with BIAB™ application. 1. Apply TGB’s 2 in 1 Base Coat and cure. Next, apply two coats of the delicate Silk shade, curing between each coat. 2. Using shade, Daisy and the TGB Detail Brush, paint a microFrench tip along the free edge and cure when perfected. 3. Place a dot in the centre of the nail about 2mm away from the French tip. 4. Paint two thin curved lines to connect the dot to the ends of the French tip. 5. Thicken up the line work if desired and clean up any mistakes with a One Stroke Brush dampened with alcohol. 6. Apply Extreme Shine Top Coat to finish the look.

For this image I used The GelBottle Inc’s Teddy BIAB™ and shades June, Pastel V005, Geisha, Pastel V082 and Jade.

TOP TIP:

To mute bright gel colours, mix with a small amount of light grey to create pastel tones, or dark grey for deeper shades. 78 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Follow Sadie:

@sadiejnails

The GelBottle Inc products are available via www.thegelbottle.com /thegelbottleinc /TheGelBottleInc

@the_gelbottle_inc

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Together we can help make a difference supporting terminal illness, domestic abuse, homelessness, poverty, mental health, and financial hardship SPONSORS GOLD

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

BEAUTY IN

s r e b Num

Keep on top of need-to-know business news & heed accounting advice from beauty industry specialist, RIA-JAINE LINCOLN

ABOUT RIA-JAINE Ria-Jaine is an accounts expert with personal taxation as her specialist area and the beauty industry her primary focus. A qualified nail tech and owner of The Beauty Accountant, Ria worked in the beauty industry on a part-time basis but noticed that many people in the sector were missing vital business knowledge. Many did not know about the UK income tax system and obligations imposed by HMRC and so Ria now uses her specialist knowledge, experience and skills to offer support and guidance on setting up and maintaining a compliant business. After completing her AET teaching qualification, Ria created accredited tax and accounting workshops for the beauty industry to help individuals get the best from all areas of their business while managing their books and tax obligations.

HAVE YOU SCHEDULED YOUR ‘SUCCESS DAY’?

f you open the books and see some blank space in your diary this month, it may be unnerving – but use this time to perform some admin tasks. Admin isn’t very exciting, so most business owners are not alone when they end up choosing to procrastinate. Some still haven’t submitted the 20/21 tax return that is due at the end of this month! If this is you, make a change this year and map out the year ahead. Here are my top tips to set yourself up for success in business:

Put aside some time

Grab your diary and block out at least half a day each month to work on the business. Don’t call this ‘Admin Day’ as you may find yourself avoiding it. Give it a motivational name that won’t make you groan when you arrive at the dedicated date. Consider blocking out time for ‘Success Day’, ‘Development Day’ or ‘GoalGetting Day’. Whatever you call it, make it sound inviting and exciting. I learned this tip from a training course and it really works!

File your tax return

I know many of you may not have submitted the 20/21 tax return, but another thing to do between now and April is to plan for your next tax bill for the tax year ending April 2022. If you have time this month during a quiet period, bring the books up-todate and make a plan. If you start now, you can set up a savings plan from as early as February 2022 onwards and you wont have any unexpected bills to pay next time around.

Plan your goals & targets

Are you hoping to grow your business this year, or remain consistent? Are you a business owner that needs to consider VAT registration or a change in business structure to a limited company? Or are you not sure which way the business will go? Don’t panic – re-visit your business plan and see if you are on track or need to make some changes. It may be time to seek professional support on business matters so that you can plan and achieve your goals for the year ahead. If you haven’t created a business plan, get in touch as I have a template that can help you.

“Grab your diary and block out at least half a day each month to work on the business. Don’t call this ‘Admin Day’ as you may find yourself avoiding it. Give it a motivational name.” 80 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Consider your cash flow

Personal and business finance and cash flow must be a priority for all business owners. One thing that has saved me on many occasions is a plan of my cash flow. I went from being jobless and living in a refuge with a toddler to becoming a business owner with multiple staff and a mortgage to pay, and found planning to be imperative to my success. Whether it’s for business or personal finances, map out your cash flow on a spreadsheet or alternatively, a simple notepad, diary or even envelopes and money tins, which can help with your cash goals and prevent overspending. There was a time when I had envelopes and money tins scattered around my small kitchen; the kind of money tins that require a tin opener to open, which helped me to save for holidays, my car, festivals and special occasions. I now use the Float App and a spreadsheet for the year for both business and personal cash flow.

DID YOU KNOW…?

Float is an online cash management and forecasting tool that helps you manage your business and keep on top of your cash flow. It offers an accurate picture of your past, current, and future cash flow so you can plan ahead and make more informed decisions about your business. Find out more at www.floatapp.com

Work efficiently

Are your business processes helping you to work efficiently? How can you increase your efficiency to boost your profits? Automation is key, be it for booking appointments or to manage your bookkeeping. If you have not yet tried a bookkeeping app to manage your business finances, get in touch as The Beauty Accountant has QuickBooks licences available and training for business owners. For those that already use QuickBooks or similar, explore the ‘Reports’ tab to see how you can use the app to better review business performance. QuickBooks also has a free cash flow add-on, which is worth considering.

FACT FILE

82% of companies that go out of business do so because of poor cash flow visibility and management. Float

“Whether for your business or personal finances, map out your cash flow on a spreadsheet or alternatively, a simple notepad.” These five simple pointers will help you get the year off to a good start. Follow and tag us on social media (@thebeautyaccountant_uk) in your success planning days as we love to see how you manage admin and how you stay motivated. Your tips may also help other business owners, so we will be sure to share them. You can also follow me directly: @ria_jaine_accountingforbeauty. www.riajaineaccounts.co.uk E: info@riajaineaccounts.co.uk /thebeautyaccountantuk @thebeautyaccountant_uk Join my Facebook group: Salon and beauty therapist UK tax group

Friendly disclaimer: The information contained in this article is for guidance and information purposes only. It should not be relied upon as full and complete accounting, tax or legal advice. For specific advice relevant to your own situation please speak to Ria-Jaine MAAT or another professional directly.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 81

BUSINESSMATTERS

How to handle

HAGGLERS

Has a client ever tried to barter the price of your nail service? Two techs reveal their experiences & how they handle clients who haggle THE TECH: EMMA CREIGHTON

THE TECH: CECILIA BUSTAMANTE

/nailsbyemmacx & /blackhearthemsworth

/nailsbycecilia

@nailsbyemmax & @blackhearthemsworth

@nails_by_cecilia_tampa

“I had a client who stated that she could only afford 50% off the price advertised. I agreed to this, then told her that the appointment would be half the time – one hour instead of the usual two hours for the sculpted nail design in question. “She questioned why, and I told her that as she was only paying for 50% of the service, she was only paying for one hand; half the work and therefore half the time. She was a little speechless but was understanding about how I had handled it. She paid in full and has been a loyal, regular client ever since. “Haggling prices when you have spent years investing in education and perfecting your technique can feel like a kick in the teeth. I am an educator for Yorkshire with The Nail and Beauty Network, and won awards for Nail Technician Of The Year and Creative Artist Of The Year, but I have only been qualified for four years and have worked incredibly hard to achieve what I have. “My prices are set for a reason. Haggling can hurt; it can make you devalue your services, question your pricing, and cause anxiety when certain clients book in for an appointment – as you may be worried about the confrontation.

“A new client reached out to me to enquire about my nail services and I detailed the gel polish manicure and spa pedicure services, which seemed most appropriate. The following day, she got in touch to say that she wanted to go ahead with the spa pedicure, and asked me for the price. After I told her the price, she said that she would bring her own polish and again asked for the cost. “I told her that the price would stay the same, even if she were to bring her own product, to her dismay. This reaction led me to close the conversation and tell the client I had closed my books to new clients due to a busy period approaching. “This experience felt good as I, the trained nail technician, know the value of my service and I seek clients who are committed to care for their natural nails and who are serious about consistency. “Every new client you book should know of your prices and cancellation policy. Stand your ground, don’t sell yourself short, educate yourself, take classes, and ensure you make a profit.”

“I handle clients who haggle with kindness and humour to save awkwardness. Your prices aren’t too high; they just may not be within a client’s budget and that’s OK, because you will be in someone else’s. Never charge less because someone else thinks you charge too much. Always charge your worth and importantly, always know your worth.”

“My prices are set for a reason. Haggling can hurt; it can make you devalue your services, question your pricing, and cause anxiety when certain clients book in for an appointment – as you may be worried about the confrontation.” Emma Creighton

82 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NAIL TECHS AND THERAPISTS ARE JUST 7 SIMPLE STEPS AWAY FROM THEIR P H A B

S E R V I C E

S T A R

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STEP 1

of the Michelin Stars

STEP 2

APPLY NOW

ND SOME FILL IN YOUR DETAILS A RS: PERFORMANCE NUMBE

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STEP 3

s: Based on the last 6 week

seen per day ber of clients - average num stomers who ber of those cu - average num

UK & ROI only

ENTER YOU R PAYMENT DETAILS yo

tions from you buy retail solu stomers who ber of those cu - average num ients are regular cl

u will o nly be charge d if you r applica tion is succes sful

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FILL IN YOUR TESTIMONIAL CONTACT DETAILS

COMPLETE YOUR PROFI LE PAGE You will need: - a headshot

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SCRATCHPADS

SCRATCH PADS An urban boutique A friendly team & luxury décor make for a standout & stylish salon in East London. CHLOE RANDALL explores…

rom baking cakes to crafting nail styles; Shian Paul discovered a love for nails and beauty during lockdown and gave up her baking career to train as a mobile nail tech.

It had always been a desire for the creative to run her own business, but this dream had always been pictured as a café. However, with her new passion discovered during the Covid-19 pandemic, Shian’s career path changed and Shian Nails launched in May 2021. Based in Dalston, East London, Shian Nails allows clients to experience a luxury boutique salon experience a stone’s throw from the trendy, up-and-coming town centre. Described as being ‘boujee’ with lots of velvet in its interior, the salon focuses on natural nail services and luxury treatments and strives to use vegan-friendly products. “Shian Nails is the kind of salon you would expect to find in Chelsea or West London – but tailored to the people of East London who want a similar vibe on their doorstep,” Shian comments. 84 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

With a stunning window display captivating passers-by, the salon quite literally lights up the street. Inside is a fully licenced bar and coffee shop and the resident dachshund, Pudding, loves to keep clients company during their treatment. Puppy therapy is important, too! An eye for interior design led Shian to choose furniture with a stunning aesthetic, which also reflects the interior style she has in her own home. “I had help designing the space from a friend who has worked on big campaigns,” Shian reveals. “We discussed colours and he then designed the space, but a lot of this style mirrors my home.” Comprising two treatment rooms, three pedicure stations and three manicure stations, Shian is hoping to expand the salon to offer other beauty treatments such as lashes and brows, alongside nail services. “Now we are settled and we have the space, I would love to be able offer clients more than one type of treatment,” she explains.

SCRATCHPADS Mixing things up Despite diving into a completely new career, Shian has noticed many transferrable skills from the baking world. “Modelling and designing cakes is a very creative role so I think having an eye for design has helped me in the nail business. I also think the planning aspect involved in making cakes has helped me in the day-to-day running of the salon,” she adds. Keen to grow the business, Shian has embraced each aspect of running the salon herself to fully understand each element, before expanding the team to fulfil some of these duties so she can also work on the salon floor. On speaking with Shian, it’s apparent that her happy, close-knit team is the secret to the fun and chatty atmosphere that radiates throughout the salon. “We all started at the same time so we’ve done everything together and that has made us so close,” she reveals.

“With a stunning window display captivating passers-by, the salon quite literally lights up the street. Inside is a fully licenced bar and coffee shop and the resident dachshund, Pudding, loves to keep clients company during their treatment.” Currently home to five staff members and looking to expand, each team member brings with them different skills and is at a different stage of their career. By hosting regular social nights with the team members during quiet periods when they first opened, they were able to discuss ideas and bond over the buzz and excitement of what the future holds for the London-based venue. “Every team member is so talented. Some have been working in the industry for years and some are fairly new but what is great is that we can all learn from each other,” explains Shian.

Nail tales & tails The variety of skills the team possesses means that no nail art request is too big, with some of the technicians able to fulfil truly intricate nail art designs. I noted on arrival the fun, welcoming energy of the salon and after speaking to the deputy manager and nail tech, Leon Lester, it seems that Shian Nails really is an enjoyable place to work. Opting for a gel polish manicure, my treatment started with a thorough consultation and Leon suggested nail designs based on my preferences. With music playing, a buzz surrounding the salon and a puppy on my lap, I was ready for my treatment. I opted for a classic French manicure with shades from The GelBottle Inc. Everything was thoroughly sanitised before the manicure started and every step of the treatment was carried out with such care, finishing with my nails looking oh-so-chic and my hands feeling well moisturised. Shian explained how the salon uses The GelBottle exclusively for its gel polish manicure treatments and OPI for natural nail treatments, with the Footlogix range for pedicure services. Shian and the team also use and retail NAF! Pro cuticle oils. “We don’t rush our appointments so clients receive our full attention and an excellent, relaxed service. Our gel polish manicures typically have a one hour time slot,” reveals Shian.

>> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 85

SCRATCHPADS

“I really believe the salon is meant to be. So many aspects had to be aligned for this salon to happen and they did.” The gift of fate Shian believes that the stars were aligned with her salon opening, as she found the perfect space before restrictions were eased. Shian discovered the unit she now rents for the salon by chance when driving past it one day and being inspired by the idea that it would be perfect for her salon. After getting in touch with the letting agency, it had been revealed that this particular unit had been empty for a long time but was perfect for what Shian was looking for. Upon speaking to her mother, Shian discovered she was born at 4:46am and the address of the salon is 446 Kingsland Road, which Shian believes is fate taking hold. From starting her career in the industry, it was eight months in total from training to opening the salon but for Shian, it was the best decision she has ever made. “I really believe the salon is meant to be. So many aspects had to be aligned for this salon to happen and they did.” Shian has really enjoyed the social aspect of working in nails, something she didn’t have when working alone in a kitchen baking. “Compared to making cakes, which was quite lonely and often takes a few days to achieve a result, I love the interaction you can have with your clients,” Shian explains. “Due to our location and prices, our core clientele is women in their twenties, thirties and forties. However, we do have a number of male clients and we hope to welcome more through the door.” The salon also offers a loyalty scheme in which the client will receive their tenth treatment at the salon for free. “We’ve already had people claiming their free treatment which was such an amazing achievement. I’ve framed the first completed loyalty card as it was such a proud moment for me,” Shian reveals. To help business on the quieter days, the salon also offers a discount on Tuesdays and Wednesdays with the hope this will encourage people to get their nails done mid-week to space out appointments.

The future’s bright After experiencing the team’s talent and hearing Shian’s plans for the salon, it appears this business will continue to thrive. With hopes to offer other beauty treatments in the treatment rooms downstairs, this salon will have the chance to become more of a one-stopshop for its clients due to the ideal location of the venue and the customer loyalty it has already gained. Not only that, the salon is already proving popular with high-profile clients, including influencers and celebrities such as designer and presenter, Alexa Chung. With a young, talented, innovative and happy team behind it, Shian Nails will continue to put customer service at the forefront of its agenda, creating experiences for new clients while developing relationships with existing ones. “Our focus for now is to grow the team, expand our treatment offerings and to continue what we are doing but on a bigger scale,” says Shian. “We want to continue to offer a chatty and friendly atmosphere and are looking forward to seeing what the future holds.” www.shiannails.com 86 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Shian Nails and Beauty

@shiannails

SCRATCHPADS

“With a young, talented, innovative and happy team behind it, Shian Nails will continue to put customer service at the forefront, creating experiences for new clients while developing relationships with existing ones.”

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 87

NAILSCENE

BRAND

WAT C H

Get to know the names behind companies & brands that are attracting attention across the nail & beauty scene NELLIE ROSE Like many beauty professionals, Rosie Knapper was unsure what the future held for her business when the pandemic hit. The owner of a successful lash and brow ‘one stop shop’ and training school in Cheshire had always wanted her own range of beauty products, and with the fate of her business in the air, she decided to diversify. Nellie Rose (an amalgamation of Rosie’s daughter’s name, Nellie, and the first part of her own name) launched in February 2021, after months of research and product testing. The product range consists of cuticle balm, hand balm, foot balm, cuticle oil and hand and foot polish, with product scents including sweet orange, tea tree & lavender, sandalwood & mandarin, lemon bon-bon and strawberries & cream. “The hand and foot polish is made from ingredients that moisturise and revitalise skin, leaving hands and feet soft and smooth as it gently exfoliates. This product is proving to be really popular for luxury manicure services,” Rosie reveals. “I am really proud of how the brand has grown so much in a short time; I have a team of ambassadors that work alongside me to help spread brand awareness and they are incredible,” she comments. “It also makes me so proud that people are enjoying the products, and nail technicians up and down the country are retailing them in their salons. I believe that people not only buy into your product; they buy into you as a person, which makes it really special.” www.nellierose.co.uk

/Nellie Rose

@nellierosehandmade

ASHE London Launched by former nail tech, Ashleigh Alli, just six months ago, ASHE London – a luxury, vegan nail polish subscription brand – has already built a loyal fan following, including pop star Anne Marie. Ashleigh’s background in nails has helped her find success, as she cites her ability to think from a client and salon perspective as beneficial. Her career began at 14 years old, when she cleaned a nail salon on a part-time basis. Fascinated by nail colours and enhancements, Ashleigh was trained in nail styling by the owner and secured a full-time role. A career move saw Ashleigh qualify as a lawyer – but she knew she wanted to return to the nail world. Following the pandemic and birth of her two children, she launched ASHE London. “The priorities of people have shifted due to the pandemic, with many working from home and wanting to spend more time with friends and family. I wanted a brand to reflect this, so ASHE London is for people who lead busy lives but still want a slice of luxury,” Ashleigh reveals. The business gives 10% of all profits to charity as Ashleigh believes that ‘beauty should do more than make us look good.’ When customers subscribe to ASHE London, they receive two nail polishes every two months, reflecting on-trend colours, delivered to their door in a luxe, biodegradable box. Designed in London and made in the EU, the 74% plant origin formula is hardwearing with a glossy finish. Six month and year-long subscriptions can be cancelled at any time and limited edition colours are released throughout the year to shop individually. And the next step for Ashleigh? Moving ASHE’s London’s products and ethos into select UK boutiques and salons. www.ashelondon.com 88 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

/ashelondonnails

@ashelondonofficial

2022 네일프로 컴피티션 아시아

NAILPRO® Competitions ASIA 2022

Online Registration

en.nailproasia.com nailprocup_asia

1st Edition:

2 02 2, the

NAILAPALOOZA ASIA 2021-2022

Ye a

Online Submission

r o f

October 25, 2021

deadline

2nd Edition:

NAILAPALOOZA ASIA 2022

Online Submission

fo rt

February 25, 2022 deadline

*award ceremony will be held on the first week of March.

Last Edition:

ASIA-KOREA 2022 Seoul, Korea

May 26~28, 2022 onsite

●

Host

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Organizer

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