Scratch Magazine June 2021 by scratchmagazine

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Issue 218 Editor-in-chief Alex Fox alex.fox@scratchmagazine.co.uk Publisher Scott Derbyshire scott.derbyshire@scratchmagazine.co.uk Managing editor Helena Biggs helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk Deputy editor Kat Hill kat.hill@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writer Chloe Randall chloe.randall@scratchmagazine.co.uk Editorial assistant Callie Iley callie.iley@scratchmagazine.co.uk Art editor Jessica Wilkie jesswilkie17@yahoo.co.uk Group sales manager Ian Archbold ian.archbold@scratchmagazine.co.uk Accounts Lisa Ebbens lisa.ebbens@scratchmagazine.co.uk Editorial/Advertising office 1 The Courtyard, Market Square, Westerham, Kent TN16 1AZ

T: +44 (0) 1959 547 000

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Until next month,

ISSN 2635-0327 Contributors Alexandra Cassells, Tina Beaumont-Goddard, Chan Vermont, Dave Heffernan, Katie Barnes, Elissa Newton, Helena Marimon, Maddie Regan, Liza Smith, Ria-Jaine Lincoln

Subscriptions Curwood CMS Ltd T: 01580 883844 Printer Warners Midlands PLC Printers Mailing House Mailing & Fulfilment MK Ltd

Images courtesy of Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer Shades shown are All Day, All Night, Into The Lime-Light, It’s My Moment, Keepin’ Cool, Orange Crush Blush and Spin Me Around from the Feel The Vibes collection. Available via www.louellabelle.co.uk

Helena Biggs Managing editor +44(0)1959 547 000 helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk

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COVER CREDITS Image courtesy of Nailchemy showcasing the Prophecy gel polish range, available via www.nailchemy.co.uk Nails & on location shoot direction: Scarlett Senter Hair, make-up & model: Christabel Franklin Photography: Arienne Jonas – AJ Feather Photography

www.scratchmagazine.co.uk www.olympiabeauty.co.uk www.nailympia.com The publisher of Scratch magazine has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the information detailed in Scratch is correct at the time of going to print, and while every care is taken to avoid inaccuracies, the publisher does not accept responsibility for any errors or omissions from any information within this or previous editions. © 2021 SEED PUBLISHING LTD

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Contents JUNE 2021

FEATURES 24 The Future’s Bright

Check out the story behind this month’s colourful front cover shoot & the stellar team behind it

28 My Dad – The Nail Dude

Scratch marks Father’s Day with a focus on the sons & daughters of high profile nail names

36 The Great Scratch Shoot Out: Entry Now Open!

Plan, style & snap your way to a cash prize in Scratch’s annual photographic competition

40 10 Ways To Mix Up The French

Add intrigue to the French manicure style & be inspired by ways to play with colour, art & technique

50 Silence In The Salon

Discover how offering silent salon appointments can reach a whole new client base

56 Fierce, Fabulous & On Fleek

Get to know LA-based manicurist, Coca Michelle – the talent behind Megan Thee Stallion’s striking nail styles

62 The Scratch Stars Awards 20/21: Time To Shine

The Scratch Stars Party is edging closer; reacquaint with our awards finalists & check out what to expect

86 Powering Up With Positivity

A nail stylist living with atrophy in one hand reveals how she overcomes her working challenges

90 The Nail In The Coffin

Scratch’s Alex Fox shares her first pro mani experience in a year – with talented James Reeve-Shillito

REGULARS 12 20 32 54 58 66 68 70 72 74 78 80 82 84 88 92 94 98

Nail Nation The Hot List The Force Of The Feds Nailscopes Getting Down To Business International Nail Spy Brand Watch The Clawgasmic Effect The Business Of Beauty Readers Gallery Beauty In Numbers Course Bites Ask The Experts Grow & Glow With Maddie Mindful Matters Through The Keyhole Nail Clippings Fingernails in Focus

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Nail NATION

business

news & views

Salon owners invited to sign up to exclusive event this autumn

By Team Scratch

Coronavirus: updated work guidance for nail techs in England The government’s official guidance for close contact services including nail salons was updated ahead of step 3 of the roadmap, which went ahead on 17 May in England. In line with step 3 of the roadmap, the updated guidance is as follows: • saunas and steam rooms can reopen • updated social contact rules (gatherings of up to 30 people are permitted outdoors; gatherings of up to six people or two households of any size are permitted indoors) • you can provide reading materials such as newspapers and magazines in client waiting areas • you can provide refreshments in line with guidance for restaurants, pubs, bars and takeaway services The government has also clarified the guidance on the use of gloves during treatment, stating ‘avoid skin-to-skin contact unless it’s crucial to the treatment and use gloves where there is a risk of contact with blood or body fluids.’ www.gov.uk

LOUELLA BELLE UNVEILS £1,000 WORTH OF SUPPORT FOR BUSINESSES

Training and product provider, Louella Belle, is offering a comprehensive Business Support Package to those that spend £600 + VAT or more on Louella Belle products. The package includes unlimited access to Louella Belle’s training academy, two 30-minute mentoring sessions with the brand’s head of education, signup to the NailKnowledge programme, 20% off a Scratch magazine subscription, a 12-month subscription to Pocket PA and so much more. Payments can be split over 12 months. To find out more, visit www.louellabelle.co.uk 12 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Award-winning coaching business, Salonology, has partnered with leading industry event, Olympia Beauty, to run an exclusive event for salon and spa owners. Founded by husband and wife Hollie & Ryan Power duo, Ryan and Hollie Power, Salonology offers coaching, networking opportunities, motivational advice and more. Over two days, 3-4 October 2021, they will host the Salon & Spa Owners’ Club at Olympia Beauty, London – the first trade event for the UK industry in 18 months. “The Olympia Beauty team will keep doing what it does so incredibly well – creating a huge beauty exhibition filled with amazing brands and education opportunities, competitions and networking, and we will become the hosts of the VIP section; The Salon & Spa Owners’ Club,” comments Hollie. “Together, we’ve created a whole new concept; something you won’t have seen before, infusing the experience, knowledge and history of Olympia Beauty with some Salonology sparkle. We want you there to see it!” Register to attend at www.olympiabeauty.co.uk/ownersclub

Sweet Squared announced as one of the top 200 female-powered UK businesses Sweet Squared has been named as one of the Top 200 Female-Powered Businesses in the UK in the J.P. Morgan Top 200 FemalePowered Businesses Report. The company is recognised as an exceptional and innovative company that is founded, led and managed by women. In partnership with Beauhurst, the team at J.P Morgan Private Bank commissioned a report to provide a better understanding of the role of women in UK business and enterprise. It showcases private UK businesses that have grown sales, headcount or valuation at extraordinary rates. The knowledge gained through this report can help businesses tackle systemic challenges and enable the continued success of women entrepreneurs, female funders and businesses powered by women. “It’s an incredible honour to be featured on a list that champions all of the fierce, fabulous and downright brilliant female entrepreneurs in the UK,” comments Samantha Sweet, co-founder, Sweet Squared. “At Sweet Squared, we’re proud to have a team of strong women working for us in all areas of the business from customer experience to marketing, finance, HR and in our SquareHouse, so making this list is a huge achievement.” www.sweetsquared.com Samantha Sweet

business

Nail NATION Treatwell spotlights 3 top green salons

Boost nail skills with Edunails pay-as-you-go online training courses Founded by expert nail instructors and educators with over 15 years’ industry experience, Edunails connects nail stylists with nail educators worldwide across one streamlined platform. Its mission is to enable nail stylists of all levels to connect with and learn from educators in order to improve their skills and boost their career. The Edunails team comments: “We all live super busy lives and often struggle to dedicate time to self development and self improvement, which is key to building a successful, long-lasting career. Online learning is a fantastic alternative, allowing you to learn at your pace, as and when you can, with no strict deadlines or timetables of classes to attend.” Edunails allows nail educators to sell their courses on an international scale, meaning that nail techs gain access to international training from the comfort of their home. Techs can search courses by nail system, shape, nail art technique, level, language and price. There are no subscription fees or monthly fees; just a fee for the course chosen. Discover the Edunails courses at www.edunails.com

Salon booking service, Treatwell, has revealed the importance of sustainability, organic/eco products and ‘being green’ when choosing a hair, beauty or wellness salon and treatments. A third of those who go to green salons in the UK are Treatwell users, and many surveyed state that they’ve found a green salon via the app. However, compared to being green in their daily lives and personal care, choosing a green salon takes more effort with a third claiming it’s very difficult. The top three green salons according to Treatwell are Ejiro Sugaring Studio in Shoreditch, Bangs London and WhiP Hackney. www.treatwell.co.uk

23% OF SALONS AREN’T BREAKING EVEN SINCE RESTRICTIONS WERE LIFTED The NHBF is calling for a prolonged period of stability in order for hair and beauty businesses to have a fighting chance of recovery, following the results of its latest State of the Industry survey. The sector remains divided about the future with 46% of respondents unsure if their business will survive until the end of social distancing. Almost one in four salons (23%) revealed they were not earning enough to cover outgoings such as rents, overheads, staff costs and stock etc and only two in five businesses across the entire hair and beauty sector are making profit. “Hopefully, most hair and beauty businesses who have been able to return to work will have enjoyed record income. However, they need the chance to get their head above water,” comments Richard Lambert, NHBF chief executive. “As things stand, they’ll have to start repaying rent arrears and the debts and loans accrued over the last year just when business rates relief and furlough come to an end.” The NHBF recommends that the most beneficial policy measures over the next six months would be a temporary reduction in VAT, easier access to support grants and an extension to the Self Employed Income Support Scheme (SEISS) should the economy have failed to recover after September. www.nhbf.co.uk

CEW launches Accelerate programme to mentor & support the growth of British beauty brands Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) UK has partnered with Mintel and leading beauty businesses to advance the development and growth of independent British beauty and wellbeing brands. CEW Accelerate is open for applications until 30 June 2021 and will provide five businesses access to a 12-week programme. This programme will offer insights and connections to help develop the brand and fuel accelerated growth in the UK and beyond. The brands will be chosen by an independent panel of experts and all companies will need to apply to CEW UK via a digital application process. “Since 1992, CEW has been creating a unique and powerful community for the many businesses in the dynamic beauty industry via its extensive event and networking activities, which provide access to industry leaders and experts,” comments Sallie Berkerey, CEW UK managing director. “It has never been more important to support the growth and development of independent British beauty and wellbeing brands than it is right now and CEW is perfectly placed to do this. “British beauty is celebrated across the globe for its creative, entrepreneurial spirit and for consistently producing enduring and iconic brands. The sector’s continued success lies in its ability to evolve and innovate, to stay relevant and to be exciting and the CEW Accelerate programme has been designed to support this.” To be eligible, companies must have an annual turnover of between £100k and £3million, be a UK registered company, a member of CEW UK and demonstrate that their business will pioneer growth, create employment and drive innovation in the beauty and wellbeing category. For more information on how to apply, visit www.cewuk.co.uk or email accelerate@cewuk.co.uk 14 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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Nail NATION This Morning presenter and Bridgerton designer join online fundraising event for charity This Morning’s Bryony Blake and Oscarnominated film and TV designer, Marc Pilcher, have signed up to Stand Together 2021, an online hair and Glam Together 2021 beauty fundraising event. It will raise money for The Coronavirus Appeal for The Red Cross and Hair & Beauty Charity, which provides support to industry workers that have been unable to work. Bryony Blake The volunteer-led event will live stream hair and beauty tutorials from over 20 respected industry creatives on the event Instagram channel on 5 June to educate and empower supporters. All donations will go directly to the nominated charities. Last year, £1400 was raised to support NHS Charities Together and Scottish Care. Togethe “We are delighted to be involved with Stand 2021,” comments Together Glam Together 2021 Sam Grocutt, Marc Pilcher president Charity. “The of Hair & Beauty Charity Covid-19 crisis has seen us become an essential lifeline to many in our industry. We saw an increase of 148% in requests for financial support last year. Now, more than ever, the official industry charity is helping those who need it most.” Find more about the event at www.stand-together-glam-together.com.

The 5 most popular nail trends on Instagram: revealed! With salons reopening and people rushing to get pampered, the team at OnBuy Body Care sought to uncover the most popular nail colours and trends on Instagram. Based on the number of hashtags, the top five nail trends are marble nails, galaxy nails, gradient nails, animal print nails and geometric art nails. The most ‘Instagrammable’ nail trend of 2021 is marble nails, leading the way with 1,832,896 hashtags, followed by galaxy nails with 249,082 hashtags. OnBuy Body Care also revealed which nail colours work best on Instagram. Glitter nails are most popular with over nine million hashtags, while yellow nails are the least popular with 628,976 hashtags. www.onbuy.com

Marble & glitter nails by @nailboutique907

Just landed: the pro-only nail subscription box by Rebecca Orme Educator and UK distributor of Mystic Nails, Rebecca Orme, has launched a nail subscription box for nail professionals. The Nail Kit Pro includes a minimum of five professional products, including a Mystic Nails Gel Polish, a glitter gel, colour gel or acrylic coloured powder, a brush or tool and two nail art items. Each box also includes a mystery free gift. “This subscription box is supercharged!” states Rebecca. “It not only gives you some amazing professional, branded products, but the products are all perfectly designed to work together Rebecca Orme for your nail design needs.” The kit also includes a QR code that can be scanned to unlock a secret webpage on Rebecca Orme’s website explaining more about each product in the box, how best to use it and her top tips for use. Subscribers will also will receive two step-by-step videos using the products found in the box. “This all arrives in a beautiful ribbon wrapped box, despatched on the 7th of each month,” Rebecca explains. “Subscription opens again on the 25th to order the next box. ”The boxes are only available to nail professionals; a professional qualification and webshop registration is required before subscribing. www.rebeccaorme.co.uk/nail-kit-pro-subscription

16 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Roadmap to reopening sparks surge in make-up sales Prestige make-up sales in the UK increased by 229% in the two weeks when retail and outdoor dining resumed, according to The NPD Group. The total prestige beauty market was valued at £2 billion in 2020 (in 2019 it was valued at £2.6 billion) and from 11-24 April 2021, prestige make-up sales in most sub-categories reported tripledigit growth, as consumers returned to some of their key make-up essentials. Foundation sales increased by 253%, tinted moisturiser sales increased by 267% and bronzer sales increased by 173%. The total sales of lip products increased by 190% in the first two weeks following the reopening of retail, marking a dramatic shift from 2020 when many consumers opted for a pared back, more natural look. Emma Fishwick, account manager, NPD UK Beauty explains: “2020 was a very challenging year for the prestige make-up sector. We are very pleased to see that consumers have not lost their love of wearing make-up and this has been demonstrated by their eagerness to embrace a more made-up look as they return to physical stores and start going out to socialise again in England, with Scotland and Wales following soon afterwards. We expect this trend to continue as restrictions are eased further over the coming weeks and months.” www.npdgroup.co.uk

REPLAY & REWIND!

Scratch hosts regular live interviews across its Facebook and Instagram platforms – but if you missed any, they’re available on our feeds and our website so you can catch up! Recent chats include: • How to build a brand & protect it from copycats – with Katie Barnes • How The Nail Business Success Club can help you – with Jo Tompkins • How to create eye-catching social media content – with Sadie Jordan • YouTube tips, merchandise & more – with Kirsty Meakin • How to be a confident nail tech – with Natasha Bee • New techniques & education – with Sam Biddle • Mental health matters – with Dave Heffernan • Gellux Ready To Rock nail art demo – with Julie-Anne Larivière

Katie Barnes

Jo Tompkins

Sadie Jordan

Kirtsy Meakin

Sam Biddle

Dave Heffernan

Images courtesy of Instagram.com/lilyachty

RAPPER, LIL YACHTY, LAUNCHES ‘UNISEX’ NAIL POLISH LINE American rapper, Lil Yachty has launched his own nail polish brand, Crete. The first collection, Negatives 001, which landed on 21 May, features several shades of neutral tones such as grey, black, and white. Packed in a slim and stylish black tube, Lil Yachty revealed on Instagram that it is a nail polish line for ‘all genders’ as a means of self-expression, with a focus on men using it. The 23-year-old launched the brand after showing support for a high school boy who was suspended for showing up to school with his nails painted, back in December 2020. www.crete.co

SAVE THE DATE!

The Scratch Stars Party is taking place on Sunday 25 July at Proud, Embankment, London – and everyone’s invited! Set to be the ultimate party for those in the nail industry and the ﬁrst big get-together since restrictions were eased, get your tickets via www.scratchstarsparty2021.eventbrite.co.uk or scan here

NAIL & BEAUTY BITES Layla Tourh, founder of, Beauty Boss is hosting ‘Breakfast with Beauty Bosses’ on the Clubhouse app every Monday morning at 9am for one hour. This will be a power hour for all beauty bosses to connect and support others in the industry.

Pure Nails has updated the logo for its Halo range of products, and the roll out can be seen on the likes of the brand’s desk mats and new fimo products before being rolled out across the range. www.purenails.co

Listen up! Scratch’s managing editor, Helena Biggs, has been featured on The Capital Cut and Nailtopia podcasts, discussing her career story, nail trends and some funny anecdotes with celebrities. Listen via Spotify.

Margaret Dabbs London has opened a clinic at John Lewis in White City, Westfield, London. It occupies 141sqm of space and provides seven treatment rooms offering hand, foot and beauty treatments, a nail spa and retail area.

For the full stories, visit www.scratchmagazine.co.uk SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 17

AUTUMN’S BIGGEST EVENT FOR BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS RETURNS SUN 3 & MON 4 OCT 2021 OLYMPIA LONDON

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NEWPRODUCTS

Artistic Nail Design Hard Rock™ Alive & Amplified Collection 12pc mixed display £94.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk Artistic Nail Design has collaborated with Hard Rock to capture the spirit of music through six bright nail hues. The display includes one of each of the latest Artistic Nail Design shades in Colour Gloss and Colour Revolution. Choose from crème shades of coral, teal yellow and pink to make some noise this summer!

LP Nails Tool Kit £99 inc VAT www.lpnails.com Perfect your nail prep with this handy Tool Kit, designed by nail technician, Lucy Pastorelli. Made in Yorkshire, the Cuticle Nippers, Cuticle Pusher and Cuticle Knife feature a titanium carbide coating and are made from surgical steel. Designed for longevity, each product is easy to clean and supplied in its own microfiber dust bag.

List THE HOT

Scratch scours the industry for the latest nail & beauty products to captivate clients & lend a helping hand Lady Showbiz Hand & Nail Cream £5.95 + VAT/RRP £12 to your services www.ladyshowbiz.com Formulated with olive, avocado and coconut oils, this moisturising hand and nail cream soothes dry skin and features a dreamy lavender and lemon fragrance. Use at the end of a mani service or retail to clients for their at-home handcare ritual.

Salon System JustWax Expert Protect & Smooth Oil £9.95 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide. This vegan pre- and post-wax oil is suited to all skin and hair types, including sensitive skin and delicate areas. It provides a protective barrier for the skin and gently removes residual wax for client comfort. It is formulated with manketti oil to help reduce redness and grapefruit oil for antibacterial and healing properties.

20 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Halo Desk Lamp Lite £42.99 + VAT www.purenails.co This fully adjustable LED desk lamp features a clamp that’s fit for most nail desks. Ideal for both salon and mobile techs, its flicker-free light means that you can perfect product application under optimum brightness.

NSI Polish Pro The Affairs Collection £10 + VAT each www.nsinails.co.uk Seduce clients with the sophisticated cool hues in NSI’s latest gel polish collection. The six shades include lilac Camisole, pale pink Lace Corset and nude Undercovers – each available in a 15ml bottle with brush-on application.

NEWPRODUCTS

Light Elegance Forever 80’s ButterCream Collection £76.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com Head back to an era of fun and excitement this summer with this striking ButterCream gel collection. The six HEMA-free shades include vibrant neons and soft shades – from the bright orange Superfreak to light carnation pink Big Hair Don’t Care. The creamy consistency allows for easy application and wear time is around four weeks. Shades are available individually for £15.45 + VAT each.

Nailchemy Prophecy Gel Polish £11.99 + VAT each www.nailchemy.co.uk As featured on this month’s front cover, the Prophecy gel polish range offers a highly pigmented colour finish and a formula free from HEMA and HPMA. Made in the EU, 50 shades are available in the range, each offering up to three weeks’ wear.

OPI GelColor Malibu Collection £17.80 + VAT each www.opiuk.com Inspired by the most beloved beaches in LA, this colourful collection features six bold, saturated hues and six sophisticated neutrals, available in GelColor, Infinite Shine and Nail Lacquer. Standout shade Mali-blue Shore is a creamy sea blue, while Endless Sun-ner is a sunkissed tan hue to suit all skin tones.

Lecenté Summer 2021 Nail Art Foils £3.99 + VAT each www.lecente.com / www.sweetsquared.com / www.ellisons.co.uk Create dazzling, bold designs for summer with these six fun and colourful foils. Use the likes of Rainbow Leopard and Rainbow Star for a striking full coverage effect or encapsulate within a design to suit your client’s preference.

NailOrder Summer Drinks Cuticle Oil Collection £90 inc VAT www.nailorder.co.uk Quench the thirst of your client’s cuticles with this cocktail themed collection. It features 18 retail-friendly clicker pens in the delectable scents of Raspberry Lemonade, Mango Daiquiri and Blue Hawaiian, and three 30ml dropper bottles for your nail desk; one in each scent. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 21

Y T R PA

The Scratch Stars Party is an amazing night & allows the industry to get together, network & team build. "Scratch always puts on a fabulous event that’s totally memorable & unique!”

Michelle Brookes, Doncaster

With thanks to our sponsors:

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Date: Sunday 25 July 2021 Time: 7pm - 1.30am Venue: Proud, Embankment, London Tickets: £69 + VAT each scratchstarsparty2021.eventbrite.co.uk or scan here Over 18s only.

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COVERSTORY

THE FUTURE’S Get to know the team behind this month’s front cover shoot – and check out the brand with a colourful backstory…

right, bold and oh-so eyecatching, the Nailchemy brand is making one big statement with its latest photo shoot; Prophecy – its new gel polish line – has landed.

‘Prophecy’ is a prediction of what’s to come, and the Nailchemy team has launched the line to help reduce the number of allergic reactions unfolding in the nail sector. “We wanted to bring a gel polish range to the market that had some of the most sensitising ingredients removed – but was still able to perform in the same way as our original Nailchemy gel polish products,” comment husband and wife duo, Dave and Hayley Partridge, Nailchemy founders.

“Prophecy gel polish does not include HEMA, 2-Hydroxypropyl Methacrylate (HPMA) and Isobornyl Acrylate (IBOA), which The Nailchemy team are common sensitisers. While we have not had any customers advise us of any issues with our original gel polish collection, which does HOT PICKS! contain HEMA, we know that nail Hayley’s favourite techs and clients alike may be Prophecy shade is Ladybug, looking for products that do not as ‘she loves a classic red’. contain these ingredients.”

Dave’s penchant, however, falls to blue – and picks Kingfisher as his favourite hue.

www.nailchemy.co.uk /nailchemy @nailchemyuk @nailchemy

/nailchemy

24 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Founded in September 2017, the Nailchemy brand is familyowned and based in Somerset. With a magical theme that enraptures its clients and a focus on great service, Dave and Hayley have sought to involve their customers in all aspects of their journey. “There is a long list of people who have helped build the Nailchemy brand,” reveals Dave. “Without Hayley’s parents, friends, the team at HQ, past and present

ambassadors, educators and our amazing customers, Nailchemy wouldn’t be the brand it is today.” Hayley, a nail tech and educator, has over 15 years’ industry experience. Her passion lies in education while Dave provides the perfect complement; with past careers in a lab, testing raw materials, and in the IT industry. “Education is a really important part of what Nailchemy offers. From early on, we have been delivering live instructional social media videos to help and support customers to use products to their best potential and share nail art techniques,” Dave continues. For techs interested in the Prophecy range, a trial kit is available and a Prophecy conversion course has launched – available at multiple venues across the UK. “We are so proud of Prophecy,” Dave continues. “We started working on it in the autumn of 2020 and released the collection on 1 May, after finding a factory in the EU to produce it. “Prophecy is a standalone gel polish range within the Nailchemy family of products and we hope that we can help techs offer their clients the opportunity to still have magical nails even if they are allergic to some of the most common allergens in nail products.” When asked about the brand’s own prophecy, Dave comments: “There are some very exciting releases to come from the Nailchemy brand, including summer gel polish and acrylic collections. We plan to expand the Prophecy colour line from its current collection of 50 shades and will be hosting an annual International Nailchemy Nail Art Tournament this summer. The future really is looking bright!”

COVERSTORY

Bright right

THE PHOTO SHOOT

The Nailchemy team captured three photo themes to showcase the diverse range of Prophecy shades and appeal to a broad audience. These themes were spring/summer floral, classic red and the punchy neon that you see on this month’s Scratch cover. Teaming up with Norfolk Nailchemy educator, Scarlett Senter, photographer Arienne Jonas and model, hair stylist and MUA, Christabel Franklin, Hayley sent a mood board for a neon theme and they pooled their ideas. The shoot took place at Scarlett Senter’s studio in Norfolk, with Scarlett on a FaceTime call to Dave while she scattered neon pigment all over Christabel to create the perfect shot. “The team was so creative and we had such a great time on the shoot,” comments photographer, Arienne Jonas. “It was so muc fun to throw UV powder around in the dark with UV lamps on to capture every moment! “I am used to photographing weddings and families; so it can be challenging to get the right angles and ensure everything is in focus for a nail shot. Lighting is key, as without good lighting, the nails won’t shine. It’s like solving a puzzle – but in the end, there’s a beautiful image.” On the final images, Dave comments: “Hayley and I think that the Prophecy gel polish collection has been shown off perfectly and we are so excited to share these images across our marketing campaigns. “To see our little company achieve a Scratch magazine front cover is a dream come true. Hayley has been buying Scratch for years and we are delighted to be on the front of the industry’s leading magazines within less than four years of business.”

COVER NAILS

Scratch Stars award-winning nail tech and Norfolk educator for Nailchemy, Scarlett Senter, was behind the nails for the photo shoot. “I used full tips that I applied on the day of the shoot with a small amount of glue on nails that were top coated. This meant that the tips could be easily removed between looks without damaging the natural nails. “The shades used were Juicy, Spicy, Sweet, Bitter, Sour and Delicious, finished with the Prophecy Tack Free Top Coat for a high gloss finish. I love working with the Prophecy collection as it has a cool cure formula – so no heat spikes, is vegan-friendly and the shades are highly pigmented. “At the shoot, I assisted in adjusting the poses of the hands for the perfect shot, and if a certain expression was needed from Christabel, I provided some form of entertainment to psych her up, which was funny for all of us – and of course, I had the great job of throwing neon pigment everywhere!”

COVER CREDITS Nails & on location shoot direction: Scarlett Senter Arienne Jonas Christabel Franklin Scarlett Senter Hair, make-up & model: Christabel Franklin Photography: Arienne Jonas – AJ Feather Photography

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 25

Our best-selling range, as you’ve never seen it before.

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SEASONALEVENT

MY DAD –

The Nail Dude Scratch marks Father’s Day 20 June with a focus on those with dads that have made their mark in the nail sector

Dexter Sweet

Son of Samuel Sweet, co-founder/CEO, Sweet Squared

Dexter & Samuel Sweet

What has it been like to grow up with a dad in the nail business? DS: “I have had the privilege and opportunity go to events and meet people, and it’s been awesome to hear so many interesting stories from a very young age. I think it’s good for me to have been surrounded by entrepreneurs and professionals. I have been able to develop relationships with some amazing people over the years.” What has your dad achieved that has made you proud? DS: “Most recently, he has provided reassurance and brought people together at Sweet Squared during a very uncertain time. My dad has always been good at engaging people and bringing the best out of those he works with. It has made me very proud of him, as well as my mum, who really do champion ‘Love & Respect’ for the people who they work with – as well as their customers.” What are the benefits of a dad in the nail business? DS: “Being able to learn and to listen in to conversations from a young age has really helped develop my understanding of business and the industry. That is invaluable to me and I am very lucky to have grown up around that.” What has been your most memorable nail moment with your dad? DS: “Hearing my dad’s speech at the Sweet Squared 10th anniversary party. For someone like my dad, who is very introverted and a computer geek, he does not seem like the type of dude to be comfortable doing speeches – but when he does they are always memorable. At the anniversary party, he made a great speech and it was so well received. It was at that moment when I truly realised how much my parents had achieved.”

28 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Zoie Bachik Daughter of Tom Bachik, celebrity man-icurist

Zoie Bachik has inherited her father’s creative streak and is a dancer, often seen showing off her playful side with Tom on TikTok. The 22-year old features regularly on her dad’s Instagram feed alongside his A-List clients; Jennifer Lopez, Selena Gomez and Hailee Steinfeld, showcasing various nail designs by her famous dad. Tom, who also has two sons with wife Liz, has been known to take Zoie to high profile events for brands including OPI and Tweezerman.

Images courtesy of Instagram.com/tombachik

Samuel Sweet has always been creative and, honing artistic skills, he was invited to work at his great aunt’s salon and learn the art of nails. He showed a natural talent for the craft and was approached by CND™ to be an educator for the brand. “My dad was able to travel the world educating nail professionals and he met my mum, Samantha, at a CND™ bootcamp in Leeds,” Dexter reveals. “My parents created Sweet Squared 14 years ago and my dad is heavily involved in the decision-making process and strategies, as well as programming to help with Sweet Squared’s IT systems.”

SEASONALEVENT

Morgan Haile & Taylor Daniel Mohoroski Daughters of Danny Haile & David Daniel, business partners – Nail Alliance Nail Alliance – North America was established in 2009 by Danny Haile, CEO and founder, who had made a name for himself on the nail competition circuit worldwide. His passion for nails led to product development, and, fuelled by the idea of merging gel application with a bottle, he launched Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish in 2009, supported by his cousin and business partner, David Daniel. Danny and David then went on to launch lacquer line, Morgan Taylor, named after Danny’s daughter, Morgan, and David’s daughter, Taylor. “Our dads were trying to come up with a nail polish brand

name and they thought about putting our names together,” Morgan reveals in an interview with Salon Services. “I remember getting the phone call and we were like, ‘are we really going to do this?’’ Taylor and I were both just out of high school and were very young and we had to learn how to manage a brand but were keen to grab the opportunity!”

Morgan and Taylor have followed their fathers into the family business and represent the brand worldwide and in the press. They have also been seen to frequent the judging panel at global Nailympia competitions. “I grew up around trade shows and listened to my dad talk about nails, give presentations and test products,” Morgan continues. “As I got older, I became more exposed to it, therefore Taylor and I working for the brand is a natural fit. Our brothers also work in international

Images courtesy of Instagram.com/nikinordstrom

Jim Nordstrom began his career as co-founder of CND™ before founding Famous Names alongside wife, Linda. Their daughter, Niki, has followed them into the business – working across logistics and marketing. She lives in Las Vegas and can often be spotted working alongside her parents at trade shows across the globe.

Niki reveals on her feed: “[My parents] support me and push me to be the best person I can be.”

“My dad is my biggest inspiration in business and personally. I always go to him for big decisions. He started off from a humble beginning, and he decided to really make something of himself. He has a lot of success, but he has always remembered where he came from.”

Daughter of Jim McConnell, co-founder of Light Elegance Nail Products

Daughter of Jim Nordstrom, co-founder of Famous Names

“One of my favourite memories is when I attended my first international show with my parents in Bologna 2017,” Niki reveals on her Instagram feed. “I remember stepping onto the show floor and thinking, ‘Is this how big all international shows are?’ I was hooked! It was so great to meet our distributors and get to know our international family.”

sales for Nail Alliance, so it’s a family company.

Lexy McLellan

Niki Nordstrom

Niki with her parents, Linda & Jim Nordstrom

L-R: Danny Haile, Morgan Haile, Taylor Daniel Mohoroski & David Daniel

Family and chemistry is at the heart of the Light Elegance brand; founded by chemist, Jim McConnell, and wife Lezlie, a former luxury salon owner. Their daughter, Lexy and her husband, Joseph McLellan, have joined the fold and uphold the core pillars of the brand; chemistry, quality and community for the next generation of users. Lexy appears in videos for the brand’s new collections alongside her mum, and the Lexy line of six hard gel products in shades to suit all skin tones, was named after her.

Joseph & Lexy McLellan

Jim & Lezlie McConnell

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 29

FOREVER 80’S SUMMER 2021 BUTTERCREAMS The all-new Forever 80’s collection infuses all the passion of the iconic decade with summer 2021 trends. These six NEW shades provide maximum colour impact in an easy one-coat application.

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*Awarded “Best New Product” of 2020 in NailPro Magazine’s Readers’ Choice Awards.

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Chair – Marian Newman BEM

Deputy chair & director of information – Sue Davies

Director of education – Donna Clayton

Director of licence to teach – Jennie Nippard

Treasurer & financial director – Peter Borg

Membership secretary – Alexandra Cassells

THE FORCE

OF THE FEDS The FNP’s membership secretary, ALEXANDRA CASSELLS, assesses industry changes & pathways to progress WHY EVOLUTION IS KEY TO SUCCESS

volution is probably the single most important factor for the continued success of your business. In this case, I don’t mean Darwin’s theory, or finding the ‘Missing Link’ (although anyone who has seen me before 6.30am and a strong coffee could probably make that claim!) – I’m talking about how effectively adapting to wider circumstances can mean the difference between your business failing, surviving or thriving.

shops!’ they might shout. But what are they doing, if not retailing services, experiences and products? Personal care services yes, but this is still an industry that relies on paying customers. In a recent BBC interview, Mary Portas, maven of the high street, explained how the expectations and priorities of customers and clients have altered over time. Many salons make the mistake of ignoring the changing needs and wants of a new generation of clients, as their diaries may be full of regulars they have had for years. These will eventually dwindle and in the meantime, the salon owner has lost precious time learning how to appeal to new clients.

“Attracting new clients in this dynamic and fluid Simply relying on your existing client base, matter how large, is not a good way to world is about observing nofuture-proof your business. Attracting new changing habits and clients in this dynamic and fluid world is observing changing habits and proactively adapting to about proactively adapting to ensure you ensure you meet their meet their needs. Otherwise, they will simply go elsewhere. needs. Otherwise, This is just one example, and the pandemic was a unique circumstance that Social awareness has arguably never been they will simply go higher hit us like a lightning bolt. But what about and clients are actively seeking out elsewhere.” eco-friendly, sustainable and ethnically diverse circumstances that are changing so subtly they As horrendous as the past year has been, it has taught us invaluable lessons if we choose to look at it as a learning curve. Many learned the value of the key word ‘pivot’ and adapted their businesses using their skills and knowledge to put in place alternative income streams and keep themselves afloat during the enforced closures. They can now continue these if they choose to and enjoy multiple sources of income, a key feature of improving your finances!

are easy to miss? Humans have a natural urge to resist change. It’s actually hardwired into our brains. Change makes people fearful, uncomfortable and unsafe. But this is precisely what is holding many back; the known is safe but it breeds complacency. Take, for example, the demise of many of the high street stalwarts like Topshop and Debenhams. This could be blamed on the pandemic, but the truth is they were already in an irreversible decline long before it hit. And their issue? They didn’t EVOLVE. These companies relied on the safe, tried and tested methods of old, and failed to see how the shopping habits of their customers were changing. They didn’t do enough research into their consumer’s priorities. Now, many nail businesses won’t make the connection between themselves and retail outlets. ‘We aren’t 32 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

businesses. This kind of ethical approach should not just be viewed as a marketing strategy. To be effective, it should be every business’ aim and embedded in their ethos. Studies have shown that consumers also want an experience, rather than just a product or the usual treatment. Think of ways to introduce this to your services; a hand massage with their favourite lotion while toes are soaking or a luxury hot chocolate in a beautiful cup during a pedicure; these are some of my clients’ favourites. Simple, low cost, yet highly effective. It makes them feel special, valued and removed from the usual chaos of modern life. Talk to your clients, learn what makes them tick and make notes on their record cards of the treats they enjoy. This kind of personalised service ensures they’ll always be eager to come back to you.

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST What about technology? Now I’m certainly no techno wizard – since occasional Candy Crush indulgence does not count. But I’ve had to take the initiative and learn by training my technophobic, 43-year-old brain to do what’s required in order to adapt. Whether we like it or not, a digital presence is now vital. Social media platforms and a website are crucial in a world where technology is king and if businesses don’t embrace this, they will be rapidly overtaken by those that do. A good case in point is the new salon recently opened in London by tech giant, Amazon. How many would have foreseen that it would expand its reach into personal services? It has the technology and investment capability to launch a huge effort into seizing a chunk of the personal care market and so it has made its move. In this highly competitive environment, we need to ensure we can bring our services in line with our clients’ changing priorities. They will continue to expect more from us and if we don’t heed the call to change, we will be left behind. To thrive in a saturated market, you can’t just be on the ball, you need to be six feet in front of it and with this in mind, The FNP will be running a weekly feature for its members to take some of the stress out of trying to stay ahead of the game. We will be keeping members updated with all the latest industry developments, innovations, consumer trends and expectations, while discussing the possibilities that the industry will take in the future. Outside, unpredictable influences such as the pandemic cannot be anticipated, but we can most definitely give you the tools and information you need to weather any unexpected storms. Take the initiative, it’s in your hands!

THE FNP WELCOMES OPI AS ITS FIRST PATRON The Federation of Nail Professionals is proud to announce that it has opened its doors to its first financial patron, OPI. Throughout the development of The FNP, it has wanted to work in partnership with industry brands and product houses, as they are the bedrock of the professional sphere. The nail industry’s leading brands are key to product and industry development, and therefore The FNP is looking to grow its patronage scheme and welcome like-minded companies that wish to support the elevation of the industry through its three principles; Creation, Innovation & Education. “OPI is thrilled to be working with The FNP as its founder patron,” comments a spokesperson for OPI. “The team is excited to be a voice for industry working with The FNP to represent the importance of training, accreditation and transparency about ingredients, to name a few of our shared beliefs. “Professionals are at the heart of OPI, as they have been since the business started 40 years ago. It’s fitting that in OPI’s 40th anniversary year, it announces this partnership to continue its support for nail professionals and the industry.” To be joined early on by the world-renowned brand, OPI, which successfully bridges the gap between professional and consumer, and is known throughout the industry as a go-to brand for many salon products, is a fantastic opportunity for both organisations. There are exciting plans ahead for this collaboration, and The FNP looks forward to working with OPI in the coming years. “I’m so pleased that OPI can support The FNP in these early days to build a better future for the nail industry as a whole,” adds Belinda Price, OPI UK education & capability manager.

“The work done already shows that we can expect great things, and I for one am not only excited to see what the future holds, but also proud of the developments made and coming. I look forward to working with and supporting The FNP now and in the future.” “I’m thrilled to welcome the fabulous OPI as The FNP’s very first patron! Its trust in us and passion for the industry has allowed us to move forward in a big way so we can all become the voice of the industry together,” comments Marian Newman BEM, chair of The FNP. “There are a lot of exciting plans and events ahead and with OPI in the mix, we hope this signifies the first of many patrons, benefactors, friends and members standing beside us, as The FNP develops and grows. Together, we can help elevate the professional nail industry and gain ‘our seat at the table’ to play a part in decisions over the coming months and years that will affect all of us. Plus, we can enjoy the many benefits that will help all members with their careers. “Without The Feds we have no full representation, no voice and no single ‘destination’ dedicated to nail professionals. So ‘thank you OPI’, for your trust, passion and amazing support. The Feds has only been here a short while, but now it has finally arrived.” Sue Davies, deputy chair of The FNP adds: “From the outset of The FNP, the board knew it would require industry support from professionals and product houses. It has received pledged support so far from industry professionals who wish to see the elevation of this sector and following positive conversations, the FNP team is excited to have OPI join forces as its first patron. The OPI team has been supportive throughout the initial stages of The FNP’s growth and now its patronage is cemented as is its role in The FNP’s future and the future of the UK nail industry.” The FNP Patronage Scheme is open to national and global organisations as well as individuals that represent the industry in different ways and who agree to uphold the values of the Federation of Nail Professionals. Listed below are the options for support though this opportunity to collaborate: • Patrons – global & larger industry leading companies and brands • Benefactors – small to medium-size entities • Friends – individuals If you would like to know more about how you can become a patron, benefactor or friend of The FNP please get in touch at info@the-fnp.com.

Belinda Price

www.the-fnp.com

/TheFNPUK

@the_fnp_

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 33

MODEL IS WEARING: SPIN ME AROUND

ALL DAY, ALL NIGHT

SPIN ME AROUND

INTO THE LIME-LIGHT

ORANGE CRUSH BLUSH

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IT’S MY MOMENT

Gelish® and Morgan Taylor® are excited to introduce the Feel The Vibes Collection. This bright, fun collection is all about making the most of the summer season. Filled with eye-catching shades, the Feel The Vibes collection is perfect for statement making manicures and pedicures.

KEEPIN’ IT COOL

y r t n E now open!

INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

S: E S O L C Y R ENT 21 0 2 t s u g u 31 A T @ 5pm GM

Get set to snap a winning shot & scoop prizes as Scratch opens its photographic competition for entry It’s back! Scratch’s annual, worldwide photographic competition is now open for entry – which means it’s time to collaborate with a creative team and snap a winning shot to see if you can win a cash prize. Open to any skill level with no set theme, this competition is your chance to try your hand at photographic nail work. After a year of little in-person contact with creative peers, there’s never been a better time to showcase your skills and kickstart a new project with the likes of a photographer, model, hair stylist and make-up artist. The result? A stunning image that can be used for marketing, attracting new clients or even exciting career opportunities. Plus, you’ll have a list of creative contacts, new skills and experiences. Feeling inspired? Read on to discover more about the competition…

The competition is open to all skill and experience levels. With its remote, online entry, The Great Scratch Shoot Out offers the chance to create your entry at your own pace and around your working life. Plus, with no live competition day, you can enjoy the creative proce without pressure.

How to enter What’s the theme? The theme is open! We at Scratch want to see your originality and skills shine. Simply keep the nails as the focus of your final image and let your creativity flow.

The judging process The Great Scratch Shoot Out is judged by the Scratch team. Each entry is individually considered, so ensure your image is truly eye-catching to stand out. The panel boasts a keen eye for photographical prowess, as well as know-how when it comes to nail style. 36 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Up until 31 August @ 5pm, the online entry form will be live. To enter, head over to www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/competitions and fill in the form with your details. Via the online form, you’ll be able to upload your images. Remember – the images need to be highresolution and cropped to a 10:8 aspect. Don’t panic if you’re having trouble with your entry; simply email editorial@scratchmagazine.co.uk for assistance. Entry is £25 per image submitted. The fee is payable through the online form via PayPal. Entry will not be complete unless payment is received by close of entry. Successful receipt of entries will be confirmed by email. The full terms and conditions are available on the Scratch website.

INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

ist l k c e h c ia r e it r c The

t the eck it agains ur image, ch yo g in itt bm Before su s criteria… ’ factor competition’ have a ‘wow your image es Do : ct pa Instant im ds attention? that comman e and image Is your them : pt ce n co Originality of it unusual and creative? striking? Is ur e styling to yo ncept: From th ell executed? co of on ti w Execu le look been , has the who model’s nails age clear nails: Is your im phed? & ph ra og ot Clari of ph cus? Are the nails well photogra ks? twea ely in fo -production and complet ed with post ish fin e ag im Is the whole ing fit your Does the light : g n ti h g li ? r& Use of colou re the image makes an impact su en d an e em th ction? ished to perfe nail design fin ur yo skin. Is ng : di h and surroun Nail finis the cuticles to n io nt te at Pay close e? ith your them il design fit w na ur yo es Do Nail design: u brought your concept to life? How have yo el’s er your mod oning: Consid nail design? ti si po & se to your Model, po draw the eye nds – does it concept? ur yo r pose and ha fo a great fit Is your model m le image; fro ok at your who Lo : g tail n de li y y e, has ever Overall st to the costum up eak m e the hair to th ered? been consid ver shot on the co you see your an C : e! e Cover worthin u might just have a winning imag so, yo of Scratch? If

The prizes Each entrant receives: • Certificate of participation • Glossy print of their entry • A free digital subscription to Scratch magazine 1st place: • A trophy • Special cash prize • Certificate • A special print of their winning image • Winner’s feature in Scratch magazine The Voter’s Choice, 2nd and 3rd place also receive a cash prize, certificate and placement in the winner’s feature.

Voter's Choice

This year again sees the opportunity to scoop an additional prize to the top three with the Voter’s Choice award. The voting form will be open on the Scratch website after entry closes. Competitors will be invited to campaign for votes via social media before the voting deadline.

Meet the 2020 winner: Ivana Prokic Scooping first place in the competition for the second time after her win in 2018, Ivana Prokic’s winning entry combined a flawlessly executed shot with a stunning personal story in line with 2020’s competition theme: ‘You’.

“I interpreted the theme by sharing my own life experience,” Ivana explains. “As a child I struggled: I felt like I did not belong anywhere. My parents immigrated to Sweden over 40 years ago and I was bullied for my foreign name. “I also struggled with dyslexia. Teachers told me that I would never become anything. Now, I have found myself. I’m not going to be a victim. I want to be positive and see the positive things in life and be thankful for that.”

Ready to enter? Scan here

Keep an eye out for more information on the Scratch website and social media channels. www.scratchmagazine.co.uk /scratchmag @scratchmagazine @scratchmagazine SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 37

Introducing Peacci Nu Nudes, inspired by The GelBottle’s best selling collection. 12 highly pigmented, vegan and cruelty-free nail polish shades that will perfectly complement every skin tone, as one nude doesn’t fit all. PEACCI.COM

@PEACCIBRAND

NAILINSPO

10ways

h c n Fre Is your client keen to break away from tradition and dip their fingers and toes into a fresh new look? An alternative French style offers the same elegance as its pink and white predecessor but affords a touch of expression; whether you choose to mix up the tip shade, add art or experiment with smile line placement.

Nails by @umanailartist using The Gel Bottle Inc products

to mix up the

From colourful tips to pretty patterns & more, nail industry artists serve up styling tips to help funk up the traditional French mani & create eyecatching looks for clients CHLOE RANDALL REPORTS

Proving popular across social media platforms, keep on top of the trend with suggestions from fellow techs to twist up the look…

TRIBAL TALONS By Sadie Jordan, content creator & creative nail expert – The Gel Bottle Inc, www.thegelbottle.com Sadie is a London based nail artist with a background in art and illustration. She creates nail art tutorials and product videos for The Gel Bottle Inc’s social media platforms and website and enjoys crafting intricate nail designs. Sadie has become known in the nail community for her fun videos that showcase her creative process from start to finish. @sadiejnails

The Gel Bottle in Marshmallow £14.50 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

The Gel Bottle in Double Denim & Central Perk £14.50 + VAT each www.thegelbottle.com

The Gel Bottle 100/180grit Buffer £1.45 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

40 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Step 1 Apply a coat of TGB’s 2in1 Base or Rubber Base as desired and cure. Next, apply two coats of TGB shade in Marshmallow, curing in between each coat for 60 seconds. Step 2 Remove the inhibition layer and gently buff the surface of each nail to remove the shine. Brush away the excess dust. This will prevent your nail art from bleeding and allow for sharper lines. Step 3 Using a thin detailer brush, paint some tribal outline shapes in various pastel colours, ensuring that you arrange the shapes and colours in different places on each nail. I used shades Central Perk, Double Denim and Clueless. Step 4 Using a clean detailer brush, drag the wet gel polish outwards in a flicking motion to sharpen the points of the shapes. Tip: Cure each shape as you go once you are happy with it to avoid smudges during the process. Step 5 Once cured, apply TGB’s Extreme Shine Top Coat to all nails and cure to finish.

NAILINSPO

POPS OF COLOUR

By Abbi Firkins, brand specialist – SNA Professional, www.snaprofessional.co.uk Abbi is a 24 year-old nail technician from Stafford. She began her nail journey six years ago and has a passion for nail art and stamping. @nailsbyabbi

Step 1 Apply SNA Quick Tips to the nails, file and buff. Apply one coat of Astonishing Nails Soak Off Stretch Base in Peony and cure. Step 2 Using a fine detailer brush, apply Astonishing Nails Gelosophy shade #093 Soft Orange in two thin lines down each side of the nail in a V shape. Next, paint a horizontal line around a third of the way down the nail from the tip to form a guide for your French-style tip.

Astonishing Nails Gelosophy in #093 Soft Orange £14.81 + VAT www.snaprofessional.co.uk

Step 3 Round off the corners of the French tip using your guide and fill in the tip using the Soft Orange shade. Cure.

Astonishing Nails Soak Off Stretch Base in Peony £14.81 + VAT www.snaprofessional.co.uk

Step 4 Use Astonishing Nails Gelosophy shade in #016 Off The Top and a nail art brush to paint a squiggly shape down the nail as shown. Cure. Step 5 Paint another shape if desired across the nail. The nails don’t all have to feature the same pattern; mix it up with the squiggles in different places. Cure. Step 6 Finish the design with a coat of Astonishing Nails Soak Off No-Cleanse Brilliant Top and cure.

SNA Professional A Touch of Detail Liner Brush Set £9 + VAT www.snaprofessional.co.uk

>> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 41

NAILINSPO

EXTREME ANIMAL MAGIC

By Matt Martin, extreme nail artist & educator – Matt’s Nails, using INK London products, www.inknails.com Matt Martin has worked in the nail industry for 17 years and loves creating nail designs that stand out. He opened a salon and academy in March 2020 and the premises also features an INK London trade counter at which pros can see the products, glean advice and purchase.

@mattsnails Step 1 Prep, buff and shape the nail. Adhere two stiletto forms together to create an extreme nail form. Fit the form and customise as required. Step 2 Using INK London Acrylink in Alaska, sculpt a stiletto nail, then add additional wings each side to form the shape of dragon wings. Once the clear base is established, extend the nail using a cover pink acrylic, leaving the dragon wings clear. I have used Acrylink in Rio and Stockholm. Step 3 When the acrylic has hardened, file the smile line to sharpen the look using the disposable 100-grit file. Remove the form, then refine and sharpen the wings. Step 4 Apply two coats of INK London’s iLac in i190 Saffron over the dragon wings and cure for 60 seconds. Cover the iLac with a very thin coat of INK Foil Gel and cure for 60 seconds. Step 5 Cut INK London Additions Animal Foil and pat the foil over the foil gel until it is fully covered. Define the smile line with INK London No Wipe White Gel Paint and a thin liner brush. Cure for 60 seconds and cap the entire nail using INK Acrylink in Alaska. Next, refine the nail and sharpen the wings of the dragon nail. Buff to remove scratches and apply Ultimate No Wipe Top Coat over the entire nail. Cure for 60 seconds.

RAVE HANDS

By Julie-Anne Larivière, Salon System Gellux expert, www.salonsystem.com Julie-Anne began her beauty career in 2007 as a make-up artist and quickly found that, after spending a lot of time with a colleague who was a nail technician, her true passion was nails. She started a successful nail business in Canada and on moving to the UK in 2011, was keen to continue her success, launching Sketched by J-A Nails. Julie-Anne fell in love with Salon System’s Gellux brand and works with the brand to create nail designs for photo shoots, videos and marketing materials and represents the brand at events. @jal.nailartist

Step 1 File the nails to shape, push back the cuticles and gently buff the surface of the nails using a white block. Thoroughly wipe nails with cleansing spray and a lint-free pad. When the nails are dry, apply Gellux Fast Bond and allow to dry for 30 seconds. Apply one very thin layer of the Gellux Builder Gel in Light Pink. Step 2 Using a fine liner brush dipped in Gellux Dare to Wear, paint a fine line in the centre of each nail tip. This will be a guide to create the ‘half and half’ coloured tips. Do not cure. Step 3 Using the same fine liner and Gellux Dare to Wear, paint a fine line from the centre line, alternating from one side to the other and leaving a gap in between. Cure for 60 seconds. Step 4 Fill in the remaining gaps using Gellux in Wild Style and cure. Step 5 Apply Gellux Mirror Glaze Top Coat and cure for 60 to 90 seconds. Wipe nails with Gellux Prep + Wipe and finish with Gellux Nail & Cuticle Oil.

Step 6 Using the Artiste brush and Black Knight gel paint, add some fine line detailing and apply rose gold foil, Emmie, over the black lines. Apply top coat over the foil to secure in place and add a few AB crystals (sizes SS4-SS8) with Ultimate Top Coat for some extra bling. Cure. INK London Stiletto Forms (500pk) £15.83 + VAT www.inknails.com

Salon System Gellux in Dare to Wear & Wild Style £11.95 + VAT each. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

INK London Foil Gel £10 + VAT www.inknails.com

Salon System Gellux Builder Gel in Light Pink £11.95 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

>> 42 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NAILINSPO

FOIL FANCIES By Nicole Dowling, educator & brand ambassador – Pure Nails, using products available via www.purenails.co Nicole Dowling started her nail and beauty training in 2004 and worked on a part-time basis around other jobs. In 2019, Nicole completed her training as an educator for Pure Nails. @nicoledowling94

Step 1 Apply Halo Gel Polish Base Coat, followed by two coats of your chosen Halo Gel Polish base shade (I have used Elise) and Halo Gel Polish Non Wipe Top Coat. Cure between each coat.

Step 2 Buff over the nail using the Halo Elite White Block to remove shine. Step 3 Apply Halo Create Foil Transfer Gel to the tip of the nail in a French manicure style. Cure for 30 seconds. Step 4 Press your chosen Halo Create Metallic Foil onto the cured Foil Transfer Gel. Step 5 Mix Halo Create Chrome in #BePassion with Halo Gel Polish Top Coat to create a paintable chrome shade. Step 6 Using a nail art brush, follow the smile line under the foil application using the chrome paint. Cure for 30 seconds. Step 7 Apply Halo Gel Polish Non Wipe Top Coat and cure, followed by an application of Pure Nails Cuticle Oil. Pure Nails Halo Create Chrome in #BePassion £2.49 + VAT www.purenails.co

Pure Nails Halo Gel Polish in Elise £4.99 + VAT www.purenails.co

Pure Nails Halo Create Foil Transfer Gel £7.95 + VAT www.purenails.co

THE STATEMENT MAKERS By Jemma Harnett, NSI advocate, www.nsinails.co.uk Jemma Harnett is a celebrity nail technician and founder and owner of Jemz Nailz in Birmingham. She has over 10 years’ experience working as a nail technician and has been managing a busy nail salon for two years. Jemma is passionate about creating unique nail designs that make clients look and feel amazing. @jemz_nailz_ Step 1 Apply NSI Secrets Nail Forms for a square enhancement and create the shape using NSI Attraction acrylic in Clear. NSI Nails Tech Gel in White Lace £10.50 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk

NSI Nails Glaze ‘N Go LED £17.45 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk 44 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Step 2 On the index and middle fingernails, enhance the nail using NSI Attraction acrylic powder in Peach Blush. Remove the form and refine the smile line and enhancement. Choose a feature nail on each hand and create an ombré style over the clear square enhancement.

NSI Nails Secret Stiletto Nail Forms £15.50 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk

Use NSI Simplicité coloured acrylic in Sub-Lime Green with Attraction Acrylic in Peach Blush. Step 3 Fully cover the clear extension on the thumb and pink nails using Peach Blush. Step 4 Apply NSI Simplicité coloured acrylic in Sub-lime Green up to the smile line on the index and middle fingers. Use an e-file (if qualified) to refine. Step 5 Complete shaping and perfect the sidewalls using the NSI Dura File (150-grit). Step 6 Use a detailer brush and NSI Tech Gel in White Lace to paint abstract lines where desired. Dust the Simplicité coloured acrylic in Sub-Lime Green over one of the white lines before curing. Finish with an application of Glaze ‘N Go Top Coat and cure.

7 1

NAILINSPO

COLOURFUL CARNIVAL By Helen Clayton, ambassador and educator for Nailchemy, using products available via www.nailchemy.co.uk Helen qualified as a Level 3 beauty therapist in 2012 and a Level 3 nail technician in 2014. She is based in Barnsley and has a passion for nail artistry. @helen.clayton_nail.artist

Step 1 Prep the nail and apply base coat, followed by two coats of a nude Nailchemy Gel Polish, curing between each coat. Apply Nailchemy Velvet Matte Top Coat and cure. Step 2 Using a bright Nailchemy gel polish and a liner brush, paint a swirly line where you would like your French tip to begin and cure. Step 3 Using a contrasting colour, paint the other half of the French tip line and cure. Step 4 Using new colours and following along the lines you’ve painted, start creating swirly lines on one side of the French tip design, flash curing in between each line. Step 5 Once your first side is filled with swirls, move onto the next side, filling the gaps with lines and flash curing in between.

Step 6 When you’re happy and all the gaps are filled, give the nail a full cure.

Step 7 Using Nailchemy Silver Artisan Gel Paint, starting at the tip, paint a thin line up along the middle swirl, up the side wall and along the cuticle line and cure.

Step 8 On the opposite side of the silver line, by the cuticle area, place a small amount of gem gel. Float your top coat over the nail and place small crystals onto the area where you placed the gem gel. Cure to finish.

Nailchemy Silver Artisan Gel Paint £7.99 + VAT www.nailchemy.co.uk

Nailchemy Velvet Matte Top Coat £9.99 + VAT www.nailchemy.co.uk

>> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 45

NAILINSPO

DAISY DELIGHTS By Lisa Lilley, brand ambassador – Georgie Smedley Group, using products available via www.gsgroupuk.com Lancashire-based nail tech, Lisa Lilley, works from her home-based salon. She scooped a Scratch Star Award in 2016 and has a passion for Gelish products and hand painted nail art. @love_lilley_nails

Step 1 After thorough prep and application of Gelish Foundation to the natural nail, apply two coats of Gelish On Cloud Mine to the nail, curing between each layer for 30 seconds in the Gelish 18G lamp. Remove the shine with Gelish Nail Surface Cleanse. Step 2 Using a dotting tool, apply Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish in Blue-Eyed Beauty to the tip of the nail to create a smile line. Cure. Step 3 Using a dotting tool, create petal shapes using white Aeropuffing Color Gel Paste mixed with top coat and cure. Step 4 Add gold Aeropuffing Gel Paste mixed with top coat in dots at the centre of the petals to finish the flower shape and cure. Step 5 Apply Gelish Top It Off and cure. Cleanse to finish.

RETRO SUMMER

By Jemma Ball, CND™ nail tech using products available via www.sweetsquared.com Jemma Ball is a CND™ nail tech from Stoke on Trent. She completed Levels 1-3 in Beauty Therapy and then worked in two salons before making the move to selfemployment in 2014. She rebranded her business as Jemma Elizabeth Beauty in November 2019 when she opened her first salon. @jemmaelizabethbeauty

Step 1 Prep the nails, apply CND Shellac™ Wear Extender Base Coat and cure. Apply a coat of CND Shellac™ in Veiled and cure. Apply a second coat if desired. Step 2 Create a white nail tip using CND Shellac™ in Cream Puff to help the vibrant colours ‘pop’. Step 3 Paint curved lines randomly on each nail tip using CND Shellac™ shades in Pop-Up Pool Party, Museum Meet Cute and Rooftop Hop. Step 4 Fill areas around the swirls using CND Shellac™ in Popsicle Picnic. Step 5 Keep painting lines and filling in spaces with your chosen colours, curing between each one. Step 6 Finish the design with the CND Shellac™ Original Top Coat and cure.

Aeropuffing Color Gel Paste in White £11.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

CND Shellac™ in Museum Meet Cute £13.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Gelish Soak Off Gel Polish in Blue Eyed Beauty £16.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

GSG Marbling & Dotting Tools (5pk) £29.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

46 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

CND Shellac™ Original Top Coat £13.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

FLAWLESS

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STRENGTH FROM File Name: ARCH TO FREE 12276-GEL-London-TipBox-Label-cg-FNL EDGE WITH Die Line: TECHNOLOGY CAD#XXXXXXXX;TIP Vendor - XXXXXXXXXX; Date: XX/XX/XX Stock: Permanent Adhesive Film Line Screen: Line Screen: 150 Proofs Required: Proofs Required: Yes FLEXI-FIT Colors and Finishes: Proofs Required: Yes SOFT Colors and Finishes: 2/0; PMS Cool Gray 10GEL C + FOR PMS 7685 C + Overall Gloss UV Date: PERFECT SEAL Colors and Finishes: 2/0; PMS Cool Gray 10 C + PMS 7676 C + Overall Gloss UV Date: July 10, 2020 2:52MOST PM THE FASTEST AND PROFESSIONAL Date: July 10, 2020 2:51MOST PM THE FASTEST AND PROFESSIONAL

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SHORT ROUND Item# 1168103 Made in Taiwan • Fabricado en Taiwán • Fabriqué à Taïwan © Nail Alliance - North America, Inc. • Brea, CA 92821 61-1168103-1 HM-12629-1

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SNAG-FREE, THIN CUTICLE CONTACT AREA

(50 OF -11North PERFECT SIZES) © Nail Alliance America, Inc.FIT • Brea, CA 92821 (50 DE 11 TAMAÑOS DEHM-12276-2 AJUSTE PERFECTO) 61-1168098-1

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MEDIUM ROUND Item# 1168095 Made in Taiwan • Fabricado en Taiwán • Fabriqué à Taïwan © Nail Alliance - North America, Inc. • Brea, CA 92821 61-1168095-1 HM-12276-1

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NAILINSPO

DREAMY TIE-DYE

By Jo Wickens, Light Elegance education ambassador using products available via www.sweetsquared.com Jojo Wickens is a nail professional and Light Elegance educator based in Newton Abbot, Devon where she also runs her salon business. She has 14 years’ experience as a nail technician and her achievements during that time include becoming the first CND™ grand master in her county (2011), gaining the title of Scratch Stars Gel Polish Stylist of the Year 2015 and Scratch Stars Gel Tech of the Year 2017 & 2019.

In 2017, Jojo became an educator for Light Elegance, a brand she loves and is extremely passionate about. She is a big believer in continued education and enjoys helping others to gain new skills and build their confidence. @jojowickens Step 1 Sculpt the desired nail shape and use the Lexy Line Ideal Pink Builder Gel and the Oval Bling Brush to create a reverse smile line. Cure in the LEDdot lamp for 60 seconds. Use the Smile Line Brush to apply a thin layer of Light Elegance Night Terror Teal Color Gel on the free edge, up to the reverse smile line. Cure for 30 secs. Step 2 Apply a second layer of Night Terror Teal but do not cure this layer. Use the Stripy Brush with Light Elegance Under The Shade Tree Color Gel to paint random curvy lines in the uncured Night Terror Teal. Add some Blue Skies Ahead to some areas of Under The Shade Tree. Step 3 Wipe the Stripy Brush clean using a paper towel or nail wipe, not cleanser, and pull the brush through the colours in one direction a few times across the free edge, leaving space between each stroke of the brush. Use the brush in the opposite direction to pull through the colours in between the original brush strokes to create the tie-dye effect. Cure for 30 seconds. Step 4 Using the Oval Bling Brush, apply a thin slip layer of the Lexy Line Extreme Clear Gel over the whole nail. Without curing, add a bead of gel to the nail at the apex and allow to self-level. This layer will encase the design and build strength in the apex. Cure for 60 seconds. Step 5 Cleanse the nails with the LEPro Cleanser and Cleansing Wipe. File the nails to an almond shape using the Lexy File 100/180. Cleanse the nails again. Step 6 Finish the nails with a layer of Super Shiny Top Coat and cure. Wait 15-20 seconds once the nails come out of the lamp before cleansing with LEPro Cleanser and Cleansing Wipe to remove the sticky inhibition layer. Apply LEPro Cuticle Oil and Q&Lu Bamboo Lotion to finish. Light Elegance Lexy Line Extreme Clear Gel £33.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com Light Elegance Lexy File 100/180-grit (25pk) £34.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Light Elegance Smile Line Bling Brush £13.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

48 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Light Elegance Color Gel in Night Terror Teal & Blue Skies Ahead £18.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

BEFORE

AFTER

Dual Formula

LASH & BROW LIFT SYSTEM

Enhance and emphasise the eyes with Salon System’s dual formula Lash & Brow Lift system. New improved formula. Shapes and sculpts brows. Available at your nearest wholesaler.

##SalonSystemBrowLift

www.salonsystem.com

@salonsystem

CLIENTFOCUS

SILENCE

IN THE SALON Quiet salon appointments are growing in popularity – but have you tapped into the trend? KAT HILL explores the benefits & how silence could attract apprehensive clients to the nail desk…

s we ease back into life from the isolation and quiet of lockdown living and clients, both new and regular, return to the salon, have you considered their noise preference within an appointment?

While many salons pride themselves on a buzzing, bustling atmosphere, there may be a number of potential clients that find this environment overwhelming and, without an alternative, could feel daunted by or discouraged from booking a treatment. Silent or quiet appointments reduce stimulation, including conversation and music volume. “Clients now have the option to relax and enjoy their appointment without the extra pressure of having to make conversation,” states Zoe Brown, founder of Zoe Brown Nail Salon, Scratch Stars Nail Salon of the Year 20/21 finalist.

“Look around your salon environment to consider what each of the senses are going to experience, including sight, sound, touch, smell and taste,” adds CND™ & LashUs education ambassador, Jacki Clarke. “You can then try to minimise each of these. Yes, it may feel new to us to have no radio playing or the usual chat with a client, but that may just be what someone needs.”

“Clients now have the option to relax and enjoy their “As nail and beauty professionals, we aim appointment without to provide a calming non-judgemental atmosphere,” enthuses Kay Cork, owner of the extra pressure of The Beauty Annex, Devon. “Offering silent or quiet appointments is taking that ethos one having to make step further so the client can fully unwind.” conversation.”

“At the beginning of the treatment, we go through a brief consultation in relation to their nails. Once completed, the silent service begins. Apart from discussions to do with their nails, there 50 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

is no general chit chat about the weather or if they have booked any holidays!”

“We have so many tools and mechanisms to help our clients,” agrees Lisa Stone, Salon System educator. “It’s time to use them and give clients a choice. We need to appreciate that everyone is different and try to adapt our environment.”

CLIENTFOCUS

WHY OFFER QUIET APPOINTMENTS? There are numerous reasons why quieter appointments may appeal to clients. Noise levels or certain sounds can be triggering to those who experience sensory hypersensitivity, which can sometimes lead to them experiencing sensory overload. Sensory overload is associated with several other health conditions, including autism, sensory processing disorder, post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD) and fibromyalgia. “Research topics such as mental health awareness, autism, ADHD and invisible illnesses as best you can,” advises Gemma Gordon, owner of RJ’s Gel Nails, Liverpool. “If we all broaden our knowledge, we are opening a world of inclusion within our industry!” “There are many children and adults that live with sensory issues,” states Jacki Clarke. “By offering quiet appointments you can also be accessible for Jacki Clarke those who maybe live with anxiety issues.” “I have sensory issues: at times, lighting, smells, the background noise of a radio or traffic or other conversations can send me into a small Emma Prescott frenzy unexpectedly,” explains Emma Prescott, Georgie Smedley Group educator. “I have the confidence and an understanding of myself to explain this to others, but not everyone will. It may be a new experience for some after spending a year isolated and with very little socialisation.” Social anxiety could also be a contributing factor in a client’s preference. “For many that suffer with anxiety, social situations can be very daunting, with a pressure to make small talk,” explains Zoe Brown.

Sarah Vernon

“I have a few clients who suffer from severe anxiety,” explains Sarah Vernon, Pure Nails educator. “They love having treatments but their anxiety impacts them before they arrive. I always make sure I send them a message before their appointment to check in and reassure them.”

“Some clients may not want to discuss current events due to being triggered,” agrees Sara Cady, owner of Glamourphile, Lincolnshire. “People are more aware of their own mental health and more diligent in caring for it.”

“We need to understand mental health and developmental conditions all have different personal requirements,” states Lucy Rossington, Naio Nails ambassador. Lucy Rossington “The more we normalise and accommodate mental health requirements, the less taboo mental health becomes – and the less taboo it becomes, the more we can share and help.”

“Clients going through a difficult time in their life may opt for silent treatments because the thought of small talk questions, which are stereotypically asked by therapists, may be triggering for them,” adds Ruth Munro, Magpie Beauty educator & owner of Little Blank Spaces, Inverness. “Our industry can be really quite loud and bold, which can be intimidating to some,” adds Jacki Clarke. “It may be that someone is recovering from an illness and needs quiet, or they may just be a very busy mum who struggles to find any peace!” Some clients may want less chat to focus on other elements, such as the massage or even the smell of the products. If this is the case, this should be noted during the consultation so you can deliver on these points. Others may just want to use the appointment time to disconnect from daily life or enjoy a moment of quiet or their own music through headphones. “One of my clients that requests quiet treatments as she cares for her son who has severe disabilities, so her appointment is the only time she gets to herself,” explains Sara Cady.

Zoe Brown

“Clients may have very mentally challenging careers which involve speaking to a lot of different people throughout the day,” adds Zoe Brown. “There are many different reasons as to why someone would book a silent appointment and enjoy a peaceful moment of mindfulness out of their hectic day, whatever they have going on.”

Appointment pointer! “After promoting

my silent service option, I had many messages from existing clients saying they love the idea,” enthuses Kay Cork, owner of Kay Cork The Beauty Annex, Devon. “Even before the lockdowns, they stated they would have liked the option but didn’t know how to approach it without sounding rude!” SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 51

CLIENTFOCUS

SETUP SAVVY When offering this style of service, you should consider conducting the treatment away from the busy salon floor. “I’m fortunate enough that we can offer a private treatment room,” states Loretta Walker, owner of The Nail Lounge Stourbridge & Midlands OPI educator. “If clients prefer, they can Loretta Walker use the back door, so they don’t have to walk through the salon. We try and accommodate everyone with any requests to ensure our clients enjoy their salon experience.” If your setup doesn’t allow for a private room, consider accommodating the client when the salon is quieter or out of hours. “Offer a particular day of the week that will be a quiet day,” adds Jacki Clarke. “If it is a busy salon, it may not be possible to accommodate quiet appointments every day, so dedicating a particular day can be effective.” Another way to add a sensory element to your treatments is to encourage the use of headphones. “Your client can sit, relax and unwind while listening to soothing, calming music,” advises Lisa Stone. “You could also offer meditation through guided techniques listened to through headphones. As your client is seated in the ideal upright position, meditation can bring focus and calm to a busy overthinking mind.”

Appointment pointer! “Remember, don’t work in poor lighting or skip your consultation just because it’s a silent appointment,” warns Jessica Prout, Jessica Prout Georgie Smedley Group brand ambassador & owner of Jessica Prout Nails. “We still have a job to do that we need to do right! Clients will still expect you to meet their expectations of the treatment they will receive.”

THE BOOKING PROCESS

It’s important to ensure the client feels they are able to easily and discreetly choose the option during the booking process. “We feel it is important that our clients feel comfortable and confident to accept our offer without any judgement, questions or embarrassment,” states Zoe Brown. “A consultation form is emailed prior to the appointment where they can simply check a box to say that they do or do not wish for their appointment to be silent.” Clients simply just have to let me know when they make their booking,” says Isaura Collyer of Nails by Isaura, Kettering. “The easier the process the better. I do my consultations online and normally have a chat with them over text to see what they would like for their Isaura Collyer appointment. This means I can focus on the essentials. I let them lead the conversation if that is what they are more comfortable doing, but there is absolutely no pressure to talk.” “I send an email prior to the appointment explaining the process, checking we have the client booked in for the correct treatment,” adds Loretta Walker. “I ensure the client is aware of the Covid-secure changes. I find out their music preference, share the timings of the treatment and provide details for payment so they can pay prior to the appointment.”

52 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

PROMOTE IT! “Nail professionals can use social media to share more information about their quiet treatment, which opens up discussion and invites clients to ask for a quiet treatment if they wish via private message,” advises Ruth Munro. “Information about Ruth Munro silent treatments should feature on your website to make it clear this type of appointment is available to book.”

“It doesn’t cost us anything extra just to be quiet and give someone their space,” enthuses Sara Cady. “As a professional, I want to make the experience as tranquil as possible and tailored to suit individual Sara Cady needs. Seeing them smile because they haven’t felt pressured is priceless. We all have boundaries we want others to respect, and this kind of service offers many people peace of mind.”

Appointment pointer!

“As professionals, we like feedback as to whether our client is happy,” says Louise Savage, INK London brand representative. “You may not get this throughout a quiet appointment Louise Savage and some techs may feel slightly disconnected from their client. I explain to my client that I may need to talk to give them instructions throughout the treatment but other than that I will be keeping conversation to a minimum. I would also make sure they knew they could ask me about the treatment or anything else at any time.”

CLIENTFOCUS

CONSIDER THE OTHER SENSES

If the client has opted for a quiet appointment to focus on the other senses, get creative with how you can heighten those elements. However, to avoid any confusion or surprises, ensure this is confirmed prior to the appointment. Lisa Stone

“Scents can have a soothing relaxing effect on the mind and help with stress and anxiety,” states Lisa Stone. “Consider aromatherapy products, such as massage creams and soaks. Allow the client time to breathe and take in the aromas. “Textures, such as exfoliators, and warmth will take on a completely different feel and meaning when a client is focused on the feeling. Texture of the products can often go unnoticed when they are chatting.”

CASE STUDY: Nails Bab, Birmingham

High street salon

“For some, small talk can be anxiety-inducing,” states owner, Rosie Lynall. “We understand that it can be really relaxing to sit back and zone out during a treatment. Sometimes, clients don’t feel up for a chat – and that’s absolutely fine. “Clients are prompted to fill out a form when booking via our booking system, so all they have to do is tick a box. We check every appointment beforehand to see if the form has been completed. If it has, we discuss the service when the client arrives before getting to work in a comfortable silence. It’s not awkward in the slightest and the client that has booked it, loves it! We have also had people book, but they end up chatting to us. It’s nice to give clients the option.” @nails.bab

RJ’s Gel Nails, Liverpool

Homebased setup

“Having previously worked in mental health and experiencing my own battles, I wanted to consider how I could bring clients back and attract new ones after the lockdowns,” reveals Gemma Gordon Gemma Gordon. “I searched for hashtags around silent appointments and found only a handful of people in the beauty and hairdressing industry offering them. I used my own experience and the understanding of being a mother to a child with autism to create the appointment option. “Everything is detailed between myself and the client online prior to their appointment – from how I greet them, to whether they want music or candles. Feedback has been so positive; clients have told their family and friends about the appointment and have rebooked.” @rjsgelnails

MEET THE CLIENTS Ellie Vincent, client of Gemma Gordon “When I first booked in with Gemma Gordon, I was so nervous. I am not good with change and new situations, but Gemma made me feel so at ease. Even though I absolutely loved my appointment and definitely wanted to go back, Ellie Vincent I still got nervous when it came to booking in and messaging for appointments. This soon changed when I saw Gemma had advertised the quiet and sensory appointments. I felt so at ease with this being in place. “Now, going to my nail appointment is a regular thing. Even if I ask for a quiet appointment, we always end up laughing, talking and joking the whole way through as I feel so comfortable.”

Emily Milne

CASE STUDY:

Emily Milne, client of Zoe Brown Nail Salon “Due to the pandemic, I’ve been feeling anxious about having to come up with an hour’s worth of conversation with people. Having the option of quiet appointments is genius; I can come in, slip on some headphones and relax. Knowing that the person doing my nails is respecting my decision

to not talk fills me with such joy. It makes me feel more valued as a customer, knowing that they are putting my needs first. “A lot of people will be anxious about talking to people since the pandemic. Conversation isn’t easy for some; lots of people I know dread small talk. These appointments that present the opportunity to just escape and enjoy the treatment would be very welcome.” Julia Anna White, client of Sara Cady “I suffer from general anxiety disorder. Meeting people is very hard and making conversation when having an anxiety attack is nearly impossible. A quiet appointment helps me not feel anxious. Julie Anna White

“I plan everything through texting with Sara and don’t have to worry about chit chat. She always provides a relaxed atmosphere with no pressure. I really struggle going to the salon and having to keep up appearances of being outgoing. It feels fake, so having a place where I can just be myself, is so nice to find. “I think that every salon should have this option. There are a lot of people suffering in silence that would like to get pampered but have a fear of others or other issues they don’t want to disclose to the whole world.”

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 53

s e p o c s l i a N

SPIRIT&STYLE

gn ris ti c s o f e a c h si te c ra a h c e th Im m e rs e in e xp lo re s c o lo u r Y E IL IE LL A C s a o f th e zo d ia c , ti v e s & m o re … o m r e re a c s, w d ra KEY QUALITIES

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Outgoing and charismatic, Gemini is one of the most social and upbeat signs of the zodiac. This sign is known for its strong personality and restless, energetic nature. A Gemini has an optimistic outlook on life and adapts to any situation owing to its flexibility.

PERSONAL & PROFESSIONAL RELATIONSHIPS

This sociable air sign loves to be surrounded by people. A Gemini has the ability to bring all kinds of people together and can find something to say to everyone it meets. Geminis value communication in both their personal and professional life. Being ruled by mercury means that Geminis love talking and sharing with others. They make friends easily and are loyal, supportive and encouraging. They love spending time with and having fun with those close to them.

COLOUR PICKS

The best shade for a Gemini is yellow as it characterises the sign’s positivity and has uplifting properties. Orange can help to amplify a Gemini’s creativity while green and white can offer some calm and tranquillity to this energetic sign. Black can offer grounding and strength. INK London iLac in Sunshine Pastel i-56 £7.50 + VAT www.inknails.com

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WORK & HOME HABITS

Passionate and creative with an inspiring enthusiasm, a Gemini is best suited to a role that utilises its unique and innovative way of thinking. Geminis love being faced with a challenge in the workplace and work best in fastpaced, dynamic environments that allow them to socialise while working. A routine, repetitive life isn’t suited to a restless Gemini. Geminis make amazing nail technicians because they love seeing new ideas come to life on a set of nails and chatting to clients. Being a nail tech gives a Gemini a creative outlet that allows them to exert energy and express themself at the same time.

mo m/millie_cos Instagram.co

OPI GelColor in Pear-adise Cove £17.80 + VAT www.opiuk.com

Light Elegance ButterCream in Superfreak £15.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Halo Gel Polish in Fresh Start £4.99 + VAT www.purenails.co 54 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Some stylish Gemini celebrities include Emily Ratajkowski, Natalie Portman, Laverne Cox, Angelina Jolie, Tom Holland, Chris Evans, Helena Bonham Carter, Mel B, Kanye West and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen.

rierinailz

Artistic Perfect Dip in Light Up The Stage £12.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

STYLE FILE

A Gemini is always up-to-date with the latest trends. Its style is characterised by a balance between casual and structured looks while also maintaining an element of fun. Geminis don’t shy away from bold colours and accessories and are always switching up their style.

Actress, Natalie Portman, poses with a classic red mani, court esy of Millie Ma chado.

m.com/e

21 May –20 June

Instagra

Gemini

Lively, fun and friendly, this air sign often has large social circles and tends to find itself the centre of attention. Ruled by mercury, Geminis have extremely analytical minds making them curious and intelligent people. This dynamic sign is known for its spontaneity, as well as bright imagination and creativity.

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TECHTALK

Fierce, fabulous & on fleek Manicurist, COCA MICHELLE, shares how turning to nailcare to support her way through college led to a career grooming celebrities Coca Michelle is a Los Angeles-based manicurist known for her elevated artistry and intricate designs. With over 15 years’ experience in the manicure field, Coca enjoys a reputation of blending incredible versatility with precision on every project. Her visual artwork and collaborations are highly sought after by entertainers and celebrities. Coca is the key nail artist for rapper, Megan Thee Stallion. She has also worked with Cardi B and singers Rosalía, Summer Walker, Teyana Taylor and Kehlani. Her recent notable works include the covers of Rolling Stone, Marie Claire, W Magazine and Variety (featuring Megan Thee Stallion) and features in Vogue, Nylon, VH1, NailPro, American Salon and Vashtie.com.

When did you train to become a manicurist? “My parents both did nails in order to raise my brother and I, and we would regularly visit the salon they worked at before they found a sitter for us, so I was always around the craft growing up. Back then, silk wraps, extralong extensions and airbrushing were common services. I found I was particularly enamoured by the concept of building something from nothing and the whole process appeared really artistic to me. More than anything, the satisfaction of a happy customer would motivate me to be better.”

Why did you move into nail grooming? “I went to college to study fashion and had Coca Michelle no plans at that time to be a manicurist, however, when I had to start supporting myself financially, I returned to the craft and it just progressed until I found myself falling in love with my work. I eventually dropped out of college to tour with my first celebrity client as her manicurist.”

What do you love about the nail industry? “I love that the nail industry has created many opportunities to generate income for families, such as my parents, who’ve immigrated to a foreign country with limited resources. Even when faced with the challenges of a language barrier, working in the nail industry allowed them to thrive in times of economic recessions.”

Describe an average day in your life... “My average day varies. Currently I’m freelancing, so my environment always changes depending on the project my clients are working on. I like to be on-the-go, so I tend to fill up my Megan Thee Stallion photographed schedule, but as of late I’ve been focusing by Micaiah Carter for the cover of on balancing work and exploring other passions Marie Claire that keep me grounded. I started boxing during the pandemic and it’s made me appreciate how adding other elements to my daily routine can impact my mindset at work.

Whats your favourite nail colour? “My favourite shade is ‘Coca’ by Laque’d.com. My clients know I love to mix colours in order to achieve a custom shade and Coca is the perfect white since it’s not too chalky and I generally love the consistency of this brand’s gel polishes too.”

What are your tool kit essentials? “I’m pretty old school when it comes to nail tools. I started my nail journey before there was great choice in terms of tools, and I’ve been accustomed to finessing an old school striper brush for nail art. What is an essential, however, is an x-course ceramic drill bit to remove gel. Anything that speeds up the removal process is always helpful when time is limited on set.” 56 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

TECHTALK

“Skills will always develop with time and consistency, but more than anything, having someone that appreciates and respects my work has been a great motivator for me to get better.” What are your career highlights to date? “One highlight that stood out for me was when my close friend, Ro.lexx and I worked on Summer Walker’s Over It album cover. We had collaborated in the past and it’s always an inspiring experience to create with someone who also believes in your vision before everything. I remember when Ro told me that Summer also wanted me to be in the shoot doing the nails in the photo, and since I’m used to being behind the scenes, it meant a lot to be able to represent and be a part of her vision.”

What’s your advice for aspiring professionals? “Since the nail industry is predominantly a service-based craft, I think it’s important to be aware of building and maintaining the relationships you have with your clients. I think skills will always develop with dedication and consistency, but more than anything, I think believing in yourself and surrounding yourself with people that genuinely appreciate and respect your work sets the path to motivate you to be better.” @cocamichelle SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 57

Getting down to s s e n i s u b SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Take note as the NATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FEDERATION serves up support & advice for beauty business owners

NHBF director, Tina Beaumont-Goddard

About the NHBF

The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) is the UK’s largest trade body for businesses working in the hair, beauty and barbering industries. The National Hair Federation launched its sister trade association for the beauty industry (NBF) in 2018, and the body relaunched as the NHBF in 2019. With Tina Beaumont-Goddard as the director, the association provides specialist business support, advice and backup to hair and beauty businesses. Honing over 75 years’ experience, the not-for-profit organisation aims to be a reliable source of information for you and your business.

How to handle client complaints

ow that beauty businesses have reopened across the UK – with many coping with pent-up demand from both new and existing clients, now is a good time ensure you have a good working knowledge of their consumer rights and your responsibilities as the business owner. Take complaints seriously, stay calm and listen carefully – preferably in a quiet area if you are part of a salon team. Then, do everything you can to put things right as quickly as possible. If the complaint is online, try to resolve it offline. By handling a complaint well, you may be able to turn things around and transform an unhappy client back into a ‘loyal champion’ for your business.

returned within 30 days. After 30 days, you can choose to provide a full refund, or repair/replace the goods instead. NHBF members can download a free in-depth guide to consumer law, which includes details about the law in relation to online sales via www.nhbf.co.uk/consumer-law

“By handling a complaint well, you may What the law says be able to turn things The Consumer Rights Act 2015 says that if a around and transform service is not provided with reasonable care and an unhappy client back skill or as agreed, you must put things right within into a ‘loyal champion’ a reasonable time and for your business.” at your own cost. If that’s not practical, you should provide a full or partial refund within 14 days of agreeing to a refund.

Pricing & payment rules The prices you charge for services and treatments must be clearly displayed. You must include a description of exactly what’s included in the price. Always display your price list and payment methods in your salon and on your website, if you have one.

Selling products & equipment

Cancellations & no-shows Make sure you have a noshow and late cancellation policy. It should clearly explain the financial penalties your clients may have to pay if they don’t show up for their appointment or cancel at the last minute. You must ensure that any financial penalties are fair on your clients.

Finance arrangements If you arrange a finance agreement with your client, for example, to pay for a course of treatments over time, you must provide a written contract that includes specific information. This should include details of the treatment, the full cost, payment terms and any cancellation fees or ‘cooling off’ period.

Alternative dispute resolution

@nhbfsocial

If you sell hair and beauty products or electrical items, such as hairdryers, through retailing to clients, they must meet all legal requirements and be of satisfactory quality, fit for purpose and as described.

If despite your best efforts, you cannot sort out the complaint and your client remains unhappy, you must tell them how to find a certified alternative dispute resolution (ADR) service. NHBF members can use NHBF Hair & Beauty Mediation service.

@nhbfsocial

You must give a full refund if faulty goods are

For more information, go to www.nhbf.co.uk/ADR

www.nhbf.co.uk /nhbfsocial

58 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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A feel-good collection of 10 shades that your customers will LOVE this summer, discover ‘90s Baby and revive the era of girl power and Gameboys. From Hubba Bubba to Central Perk, each colour celebrates the most iconic moments of the decade. And, while our MSN Messenger passwords may be long forgotten, these love-forever colours are as timeless as can be. Visit thegelbottle.com to shop the ‘90s Baby collection and Spice Up Your Life.

NAILCOMPETITION

The only awards for the UK nail industry As excitement builds for the Scratch Stars Party on 25 July, HELENA BIGGS recaps on the journey of the Scratch Stars Awards finalists 20/21…

THE STORY SO FAR... The Scratch Stars Awards was launched in 2012 by Scratch magazine to recognise the achievements of individuals and businesses in the UK nail industry. An annual event, it differs from other nail competitions in that it takes into account not just nail skill – but customer care, passion for the industry, CPD, business ethic and more. Techs, teams, bloggers and salon businesses gathered their best nail pics and put well-preened fingers to keyboards to enter the Scratch Stars Awards back in February 2020, with finalists across 18 categories announced in March, and competing and judging set to take place in May. However, the coronavirus pandemic put a spanner in the works – and postponing judging to September 2020 was still too premature, as restrictions and uncertainty made competing and the party impossible to present. Thankfully, the roadmap set out by the PM earlier this year meant that the awards process could restart in spring 2021; and our finalists who had waited so long to compete were contacted about next steps. Unfortunately, due to changes in circumstances brought on by the pandemic, a number of our finalists had to withdraw from the competition, and Scratch made the decision to move the judging and competing online to prevent any further delay. After much planning and playing with logistics, Scratch delivered a fair competing opportunity for all finalists, with the addition of questions to understand how each finalist navigated the challenges of the pandemic and utilised their time; the results of which will help assess whether they are worthy of a Scratch Star. Finalists in the ‘practical’ categories that would normally have travelled to The London College of Beauty Therapy to compete, were given strict instructions prior to being filmed via Zoom under competition circumstances on 20 May. Those in the business, media and special awards categories were required to submit further information – while some category finalists received mystery calls to assess their care and clarity with clients in a Covid-secure workplace. All assets were then passed onto our prestigious panel of judges with scoresheets so they could deliberate individually; each judging up to four categories each. At the time of press, the completed scoresheets were being received by the Scratch team and totals tallied to determine who in each category will receive a prestigious Scratch Star trophy and title at the Scratch Stars Party on 25 July. Photos shown are from the 2019 Scratch Stars Awards event

62 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NAILCOMPETITION

WHY ENTER?

A finalist or winner position in the Scratch Stars Awards is a sign of sheer excellence and prowess within the industry and will serve to set your skills apart from competitors and boost your profile. The Scratch Stars Awards is an enjoyable experience from start to finish – and all finalists are offered media support and collateral to support their achievement during the awards process, and after the winners have been announced. They are then put forward for exclusive opportunities by the Scratch team and approached for expert comment and articles. Importantly, finalists receive their scoresheets at the end of the awards process so they can pinpoint areas of excellence and any pointers for development. Winners receive a glorious gold constellation trophy for their achievement and many brands look to the Scratch Stars Awards to uncover new nail talent.

THE SPONSORS

The Scratch Stars Awards is only possible thanks to the support of its sponsors. Each sponsor has shown its true dedication to championing professionals and businesses in the UK nail sector through its support via funding and the sharing of promotional materials. Many of our 20/21 sponsors are brands, that encourage their users to enter the awards to help boost their career and be recognised for their talent.

Eligibility Keen to enter the Scratch Stars Awards next year? Entry is free and will open 1 February 2022. Those entering must have been established and working actively in the UK nail industry for a minimum of 12 months and provide evidence of a mani/pedi qualification and insurance. Entry is via an online form at www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/scratchstars.

THE JUDGES

There are two judging panels across the Scratch Stars Awards; judges for the ‘practical’ categories that must have reached educator status, and judges for the business and media categories. Each sponsor gets to put forward a judge, and then additional judges are cherry-picked for their expertise and industry standing. The volume of judges and their industry reputation means that the Scratch Stars Awards has been remarked upon as being one of the fairest nail competitions industry-wide. Scan here to view the 20/21 Scratch Stars Awards judges

Owing to sponsors and the dedicated Scratch team, the Scratch Stars Awards is dubbed ‘the Oscars of the nail industry’ and upholds immense prestige. “The Scratch Stars Awards is an amazing competition. To reach the finals is a highlight in anyone’s career and to win is profound elation. My award makes my heart swell with pride as the industry has acknowledged my hard work and said ‘thank you’.” Denise Wright, Services to the Nail Industry champion 2019

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 63

NAILCOMPETITION

THE 20/21 FINALISTS

L&P TECH OF THE YEAR

POLISH & PAINT ARTIST OF THE YEAR

EDUCATOR OF THE YEAR

Emma Kilani Kamila Borowiec Kylea Wherry Mino Vo

Amanda Byrne Amanda Trivett Delia Turville Jekaterina Rudnicke Sarah Kay Abbott

Hannah Garbett Jennie Nippard Laura Jane Berry Michelle Brookes Stella Cox

sponsored by Sweet Squared

Hazel Dixon Katie Barnes Liza Smith Michelle Brookes

THE SHINING STAR AWARD Lisa Wells (posthumously)

HALL OF FAME AWARDS Metta Francis – Ultimate Mobile Nailist NAF! Salon – Ultimate Social Media Star

THE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD Marian Newman BEM

scratchmagazine.co.uk/scratchstars

#scratchstars

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 65

NAILTALES



INTERNATIONAL

Nail Spy Scratch’s KAT HILL explores local trends in the nail & beauty spheres in Portugal …

Salon in the spotlight… Name: Lucia Estevens Job title: Nail & beauty technician Business name: The Nail Kitchen Location: Quinta do Lago, Algarve

My story “I have been working in Quinta do Lago for about a year and feel very lucky to work in such a beautiful area. Being a nail tech in the sunny Algarve provides me with the perfect work-life balance that I have always wanted to achieve."

Nail styles “The most popular nail service at The Nail Kitchen is a CND Shellac™ manicure for a high-shine finish that’s fast to remove and reapply. Popular colours are nude, earthy tones and a classic red. Clients will often stick to one shade but the French manicure has also been in high demand recently.”

Differences “As I work in a tourist hotspot, my clients come from many different countries. This means that I’m constantly learning about trends from different cities and new techniques, so my menu is fresh. “The environment is laid-back and, I feel like it’s much easier to get a nail appointment in my area as we have a more flexible schedule. In the UK, people are always busy and so time is short. “In Portugal, it is easier to visit a nail supply shop and find the products you need. In the UK, the nail market seems to be more online based. Here, you can find lots of different shops in the same city that offer professional products; likely one in every shopping centre! “I also find that acrylic nail extensions aren’t as popular here as they are in the UK. Most salon or nail technicians don’t offer L&P acrylic services, as gel based enhancements are the go-to option.” www.nailkitchenalmancil.com /thenailkitchen.algarve @thenailkitchen.algarve

Did you know? Cork pots used by Lush are created using the bark of the cork oak sourced from southern Portugal. The natural, reusable and biodegradable pots are Lush’s first carbon-positive packaging product and the ideal storage solution for the brand’s shampoo bar. The pots received certification from The Carbon Trust as a carbon-neutral packaging product and Lush’s initiative supports the wider regeneration of cork oak forests in Portugal. http://uk.lush.com 66 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Brand spotlight:

Purple Professional

Location: Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal Founded in 2004, Paula Correia Leitão and Vitor Leitão created Dantas Correia and Leitão Lda with the opening of a small cosmetics store in Gondomar, Porto. Owing to demand, the duo launched nail brand, Purple Professional, with a range of building gels.

Dantas Correia and Leitão Lda

The brand grew further with the introduction of gel polishes. “We have now more than 100 colours, divided into 22 collections,” reveals a spokesperson for the brand. “Currently, Purple Professional is represented in 19 countries, with more than 200 sale points. The quality of our products, combined with our dedication, makes us stand out.” The nomination for the Cosmoprof Awards Hong Kong 2017 and Brand Cosmoprof Awards Bologna bestsellers 2019, in the Best Product Purple Professional’s most category was an important popular products are its milestone for the brand. Builder Gel, Elastic Base and www.purpleprofessional.pt

gel polish range. Sought-after shades are Forever Strong, Perfect Couple and Show Humour.

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NAILSCENE

BRAND

WAT C H Get to know the names behind brands that are attracting attention across the nail scene… GOTTI NAILS USA-based nail aficionado, Robert Nguyen, has launched Gotti Nails, following 16 years’ experience in the nail industry. After starting out as a competitor, Robert went on to become an international educator for brands including OPI, Color Club and Entity Beauty, and opened two successful salons in Beverly Hills. “I’ve had the opportunity to travel the world and play with so many products,” Robert reveals. “Having worked with some of the top brands in our industry, I have been able to learn so much about the business side as well. I wanted to start my own line because I really enjoy the process from start to finish. I also wanted to bring products that might have never made it somewhere else straight to the nail techs.” SCRATCH READER OFFER! Gotti Nails is offering 20% discount on purchases to Scratch readers. Simply use code SCRATCH at www.gottinails.com

The Gotti Nails range offers: • No wipe gel top coat • Base coat • Gel polish • Lacquers • Chromatic pens • LED super glue • Stamping gel

The team works hard on every aspect of the business in order to elevate the brand to the next level. “Although my brand is still in the growth stages, I never want to lose sight of where we started,” Robert continues. “It’s important for Gotti Nails to maintain a high level of excellence.” During his time in industry, Robert has explored nearly every avenue in the nail world, so the move to working for himself seemed appropriate, especially now he is a father of two. “People have always told me to create my own brand. For so many years it was in the back of my mind, however it has always seemed impossible or so farfetched that I never pursued it – until now,” he states. Robert is hoping to expand the range to 104 gel polish colours, as well as adding an L&P acrylic line and nail art products. He would also like to continue to grow the brand with distributors around the world. While Robert is currently looking for a UK distributor, Gotti Nails products can be purchased worldwide at www.gottinails.com /gottinail @gotti_nail

NTS Products When the global pandemic hit, it seemed the perfect time for National Training Salon director, Adele Cartwright, to expand the NTS brand – and develop NTS Products. With 20 years’ experience behind her, Adele has sought to offer products to improve common issues. “I teach Level 3 Nail Technology and an array of beauty courses and I often stumble across little niggles,” Adele explains. “Therefore, I decided to roll my sleeves up and get my problem-solving hat on.” The first issue Adele noted and wanted to address was that she often puts her acrylic brush down while in the midst of working. This either ends up destroying her desk or losing the brush under paper towels. Adele’s solution for this was to invent her ‘Crown’ Monomer pot brush holder. Shortly after, Adele launched a Duo acrylic brush with one side a perfect 10 and the other a 3D brush for creating 3D work. She’s also launched the ‘Dainty Dolly’ duo nail art brush and has more recently added nail tips and her ‘Lash Me’ kit to the portfolio. However, the journey of the brand has not come without its challenges. “My business had been closed like so many others for almost a year and it reluctantly did cross my mind to give up, but I flipped that negative thought and pushed harder than ever,” reveals Adele. The talented educator is now looking forward to launching more products later this year. www.nationaltrainingsalon.co.uk 68 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

/ntsmanchester

@nationaltrainingsalon

NAILSCENE LP Nails Following 11 years as a nail technician, salon owner and teacher of up to 50 students a week, Lucy Pastorelli founded LP Nails – armed with passion and the needs of her students in mind. “I began by procuring a great, affordable e-file that would be suitable for beginners up to advanced technicians,” Lucy reveals. “After sourcing it, alongside drill bits and hygiene kits, I began to explore the idea of creating a tool range to complement.” With the fast pace of the nail industry and increasing demand from nail technicians for quality tools, Lucy wanted to do something to stand out. “The nail industry is changing and technicians understand the importance of using quality tools,” Lucy explains. “There are a number of nail tool ranges on the market – so I thought it was vital to do something different if I was to launch my own brand, offering quality without compromise. “Founded in Yorkshire and working with a Yorkshire-based manufacturer, I created a small tool range that I knew other nail technicians would fall in love with.” Lucy offers the range via www.lpnails.com, which allows its reach to extend past her students. “The LP Tool Kit features three cuticle tools, each serving a different purpose. “The tools are covered in a titanium carbide coating, designed for longevity and optimum hygiene,” Lucy adds. “These tools have become the most popular products and they sold out in three weeks after launch!” Sleek in appearance, the LP e-file has a large digital display, which means the user can see the exact RPM at all times. “This can be easily turned up or down, making for smooth transitions,” adds Lucy. It doesn’t contain small brushes in the motor. “This has a variety of benefits such as increased torque, life span, reliability and reduced noise and vibration. A brushless machine also means that the hand piece is small and easy to hold. “The LP e-file requires a light touch, which results in a more comfortable experience for your clients and less strain while you work. LP Nails also offers four different drill bit collections, the LP Hygiene Routine Kit (UK lab tested) and a selection of files. “I wanted to create a brand with quality at its core and when it came down to the LP tools, I wanted to ensure I could work closely with UK-based manufacturers to keep up with demand, so there would not be long lead times for product delivery,” adds Lucy. “After the overwhelming response to the LP tool range, I have been busy working with the manufacturer to develop more tools which will launch in the near future.” www.lpnails.com

/Lucypastorellinails

@lucypastorellitools_

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST COLUMNIST

Elevate your nail artistry, social media, business skills & more with tips from Clawgasmic co-founder, CHANTELLE VERMONT…

ABOUT CHANTELLE VERMONT (CHAN) Chan has been working as a nail technician for 16 years and ran her own nail studio for seven years before launching Clawgasmic with her marketeer partner, Jouvan Johnson. With a passion for nail art, Chan helps fellow techs to improve their skills, grow their business and gain confidence through the Clawgasmic community. The talented tech has completed six seasons at London Fashion Week and has grown a vast social media following owing to her dedication to uplifting fellow pros in the industry.

ey you! I hope you’re well. Summer is coming up fast and I am so ready for it. I cannot wait to wear bold, bright shades on my fingers and toes for the foreseeable future and take some pictures in the sun.

Another fab thing about French manicures and alternative French manicures is that regrowth is less obvious, so that’s a bonus! I recommend getting your hands on some neon pigments in order to create ombré designs, as they offer such an eye-catching and beautiful effect.

I wanted to showcase three on-trend looks and designs for the summer alongside a fun tutorial this month. The change in season brings a new burst of creativity so I wanted to unveil some cool colour combos for you to try.

Another gorgeous look for summer is colour blocking. Use bright shades next to each other to create some really striking looks. A top tip is to mix some colours that you already have to create brighter tones and different shades. In this look, I mixed neon colour gel paints with white gel paints to create super bright pastel tones. I was so pleased with how the colours came out. Nail art should be fun – so experiment, play and create.

The first trend that isn’t going anywhere is a coloured French tip. French manicures will always be desirable and suitable for every situation and season, but make sure you’ve invested in some pastel tones and neon brights. Try applying a different shade to each nail to add a fun element to your French manicures. Play with the depth of your French lines; a super skinny French is popular at the moment and looks incredible! You could even double up on your French tip and choose two colours next to each other. Try a black tip on your clients too, as it’s chic, classy and makes a statement without being too wild.

Alternative French manicures truly have my heart. They are so versatile to wear; anything goes so get creative and play with colours, techniques and patterns. Use foils and stamping plates, chrome pigments and animal prints for a stand-out look. Here’s one of my more recent alternative French looks. The full tutorial is available on The Clawgasmic Nail Network. I wanted to incorporate two of my favourite styles; checkerboard and ombré as I love to create a set that is slightly different on each finger.

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I think the trend we’ve seen of a bright pop of colour on a very neutral background will remain popular. Invest in some neutrals, soft pink and nude shades so you have something to suit every client’s skin tone. Milky neutrals are one of my current obsessions. They create the perfect base while adding a fashionforward twist. I can’t wait to see all your creations this summer. Keep shining!

Chan x

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

STEP-BY-STEP: THE CLAWGASMIC LAPEL I created this design after being inspired by a jacket I saw online; I think these shades are a gorgeous summer colour combo. Step 1 Apply base coat followed by one coat of a neutral gel polish shade. After curing, apply your first shade by the cuticle area in the shape shown and cure. Step 2 Create the outline of the lapel diagonally across the nail using your second shade and a striping brush. Fill in the shape and cure.

Step 3 Fill in the rest of the nail using your third shade and cure. Apply top coat and cure. Step 4 Buff over the whole nail and then trace around the lapel shape using a black art gel or gel paint and striping brush. Cure.

Step 5 Apply a chrome pigment to the gel paint and follow with a gloss or matte top coat. If using matte, paint over the chrome lines with a shiny top coat and cure to finish.

TECH TALK

I couldn’t wait to interview the lovely @amyguynailartist. An educator, nail artist and founder of @thenailtechorg, Amy is incredibly talented and full of positivity. Like me, she is passionate about uniting our industry. How did your journey into the nail industry begin? I completed a nail course around eight years ago, while I was working full time as a bank manager. I have always been creative and love art, dance, drama and sports. A family friend, who’s a nail educator, mentioned that she had a space on a course, so I jumped on it and thought it might be something I would do as a hobby. I remember how awful my first set of nails was and so I was completely put off and did nothing with my qualification for around 12 months. I then bought my first house and needed an extra income so decided to pick up my nail kit again and as my confidence grew, so did my love for nails and this wonderful industry. I can’t imagine my life right now if I didn’t go on that course. I’m so grateful! What are your favourite looks to create and what inspires you? I love really fun, vibrant sets that make me smile when I look at them. I suppose I like a bit of everything! Although I’ve done nail art from very early on in my career, I used to squirm at the thought of having it on my own nails, but now I’m obsessed! I love creating looks that match my outfits and if I buy something that’s really bright or bold, I can’t wait to get home and create a set to match the colour.

I love matching my rings to my nails, too. I get inspiration from so many different places but more often than not, it is the other incredible nail artists in the community and industry that give me amazing ideas. There are so many talented techs in this industry and I love getting to know everyone and recreating their work. What advice would you give to nail artists new to the industry? Enjoy the journey! I say this to my beginners all the time but you really are on a journey, and I think it’s so easy to compare yourself to others – especially when scrolling on social media, but this can take the fun out of the journey. You will never stop learning, trying new products or finding new ways to do things, and there will be ups and downs along the way. You have to trust yourself, your passion and the process. Set yourself positive, achievable goals and focus only on them, and don’t ever stop believing in yourself!. You are capable of anything you put your mind to. What do you love most about being a nail technician? I love being surrounded by so many other talented and incredible people and being a part of the nail community. I believe that there is no other industry like it. The support network and the talent is phenomenal, and I love my job mostly because of the people I have met along the way.

For a full nail art video tutorial of Chan’s tile design and to gain access to over 170 other tutorials, check out the Clawgasmic Nail Network: www.clawgasmic.com /clawgasmic @clawgasmic

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

The business of

BEAUTY Nail expert, salon owner, educator & mentor, LIZA SMITH, shares her wisdom & advice to benefit your business

CAN CLARITY GIVE YOU CONFIDENCE & BRING YOUR CLIENTS BACK?

re you feeling stuck right now? Has your confidence taken a knock? Are you seeing fewer clients than you expected? Regardless of whether you’ve managed to secure financial help or not, it isn’t just your financial future at stake here. Businesses have shrunk, and even though it’s fine to be on pause, sometimes we need to rethink our strategies and look a bit deeper into client buyer behaviour.

and new needs of your clients. How can you reconnect with them? What was the driving force behind their treatments?

I’m pretty sure your personal buyer behaviour isn’t the same as it was 18-24 months ago. Do you have the same goals as in 2019? Are they bigger, smaller or totally different? Some clarity on where you are today will allow you to draw a new blueprint for the direction of your business. Do you need one? Many of the salon professionals that I have been speaking to since reopening are seeing lower client returns than expected. Even businesses that were thriving pre-pandemic are seeing fewer clients. There are businesses that are still thriving, but the businesses that are seeing the biggest change are those that provide nail services as their main or only treatments.

• • • • • • •

If they’re not doing any of these things, then you cannot use the same messaging to get them to do the same things. You must be in alignment with your target audience, but who is your target audience? What are the emotional reasons that clients will want to have a hand or foot treatment? Uncomfortable cracked hands from hand gel and hand washing. Dry, brittle nails from hand gel and hand washing. Toenails that are painful from the walking for exercise in trainers. Ashamed of their bitten nails/chewed cuticles. Bored of natural nails. Feeling unhealthy due to lack of self-care. Embarrassed about looking untidy and ungroomed.

“Taking your business in a slightly different direction Let’s look at the differences in client behaviour. Pre-pandemic, clients booked hand and foot is sometimes what services because they are regarded as the best accessory to an outfit, when going out or on you need to do.” holiday. A manicure was a quick-fix reward after a busy week at work. Exposing their feet/toes after getting new sandals meant that a matching pedi was crucial.

They don’t understand their problem yet. You need to understand their mindset more than they do, then show empathy and understanding. Don’t sell the service, sell the solution to how they are feeling.

Last year, about one month after we opened, I realised that the salon’s normal messaging wasn’t working. Glamour fell flat, as no one was going out or on holiday, so we changed our message to one of self-care and booked more massages, luxury pedicures and facials than ever before. This year is the same. Start to think of selling solutions to problems that everyone is feeling. Sell a package of services and sell it in a way that resonates with how they want to feel.

However… • Many clients are still furloughed or working from home in their lounge wear. • Most, if not all clients, haven’t been going out or on holiday. • The weather has been, for the most part, a let-down. • Older clients may still be cautious about leaving home. • Younger clients may be unemployed and in between jobs.

For the mature client that has more disposable income, sell them a package for three months involving a luxury pedicure every four weeks with a mini pedi every two weeks, and homecare products to boost results. For the sports person that is training, sell a package with no colour, just well-trimmed toenails, removal of callouses and smoothing of skin.

In my salon, the team has seen its hardcore hand and foot clients return, as well as most hair and waxing clients. There’s a number of nail clients that haven’t returned, but we’ve gained some new clients as well. So, what can you do, apart from wait for the rolling out of hospitality and holidays, and keep your fingers crossed that we get some summer weather? You need to identify the deeper

For younger clients that may be struggling financially, offer mini treats that cost you little, yet give them quick wins. A mini mani and pedi in their lunchtime, and maybe offer a better price for booking on the day. Taking your business in a slightly different direction is sometimes what you need to do. We are in different times; we cannot do what we have always done, and what got you ‘here’ will not get you to ‘there’.

www.bodylines.biz 72 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

/liza.smithnails

@lizasmithnails

TECHSPOTLIGHT

READERS GALLERY

Super creative nail tech, KATIE ALICE, shares her bold, imaginative artistry & reveals her plans for the future in nails

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

Name – Katie Alice Age – 25 years Business name – Katie Alice Nail Design Location – Liverpool Years in nails – Six years Trained with – I went to beauty college and did an apprenticeship in a salon in Liverpool. I started doing a beauty course but later swapped onto the advanced nail course as I loved the nail part of the course so much! When I decided to work on a self-employed basis, I signed up to a course with Bio Sculpture, and have honed my nail artistry along the way.

Fav nail design – Characters and stars are really fun to do and enjoy adding designs to French tips. I think that with the right smile line, a French tip can look so classy – and be so wearable. Career ambition & vision – I will be launching a brand of press-on nails featuring my own designs very soon. I already sell my own range of full cover nail tips to nail techs, which are perfect for creating press-on nails to sell to clients. I would love to launch more products in the future and host more online nail art masterclasses.

Fav products – I absolutely love gel paints because I enjoy hand painted designs. They are perfect for adding outlines and details to your designs, and for small intricate shapes such as stars.

Who do you admire in the industry? There are so many amazing people in the nail sector, and I think that most used lockdown to improve their skills. Two nail artists in particular that I have always admired are Joely Ocean who creates designs that are on-trend and wearable, and Amy Guy as I love her work ethic. I think she has had some amazing business ideas and has done so much for the nail community.

Fav nail technique – Detailed, hand painted designs as I find this technique so therapeutic.

www.katiealicenaildesign.com @katiealice_nail_design

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ADVERTORIAL

GET ACCURATE ENERGY BILLS WITH SMART METERS Avoid estimates and only pay for what you use. Ask your energy supplier if you are eligible for a smart meter.

he COVID-19 pandemic has been incredibly challenging for businesses across Great Britain. As firms begin opening up amid continuing restrictions, many are assessing their financial situation and focusing on how to operate in this difficult new trading environment.

In these uncertain times, many businesses are looking for ways to save money and maintain a healthier bottom line. The good news is that getting a smart meter for your business is a small change that could make a big difference. Smart meters are a great way to gain more control and understand how much energy you’re using. Since energy is a key expense that businesses factor into their outgoings, identifying ways to reduce your consumption could help you save money. Smart meters are available for many businesses. Depending on your circumstances, your smart meter could come with an In-Home Display (IHD), which will enable you to see up to date consumption in pounds and pence, making it easier to visualise how much energy you actually use. In fact, some business owners who have had one installed said it highlighted areas of spending they weren’t even aware of. This could give you the information you need to help reduce your consumption and therefore save money. On top of that, smart meters can help save you time. They can automatically send meter readings to your supplier, so you no longer have to. That’s one less thing on your to-do list! Your energy supplier will be ready to fit your smart meter once your eligibility has been confirmed. They will arrange a date and time that is suitable for you and your business requirements. A trained installer will then call round to your premises and fit your smart meter, and after the installation process is complete, they can show you and your staff how it works and answer any questions you might have about it. Contact your energy supplier about eligibility for your business.

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

BEAUTY IN

s r e b Num

Keep on top of need-to-know business news & heed accounting advice from beauty industry specialist, RIA-JAINE LINCOLN

TIPS TO HELP GROW YOUR BRAND AND YOUR BUSINESS

ABOUT RIA-JAINE Ria-Jaine is an accounts expert with personal taxation as her specialist area and the beauty industry her primary focus. A qualified nail tech and owner of The Beauty Accountant, Ria worked in the beauty industry on a part-time basis but noticed that many people in the sector were missing vital business knowledge. Many did not know about the UK income tax system and obligations imposed by HMRC and so Ria now uses her specialist knowledge, experience and skills to offer support and guidance on setting up and maintaining a compliant business. After completing her AET teaching qualification, Ria created accredited tax and accounting workshops for the beauty industry to help individuals get the best from all areas of their business while managing their books and tax obligations.

s beauty business owners up and down the UK have been getting back to business, I have seen a lot of change in terms of business growth and expansion which is exciting. Incentives for apprenticeships are aiding ideas for business growth, and many are looking at ways to invest in people to support business development.

fresh perspective and increased loyalty, as your apprentice will earn while they learn. As well as an incentive payment, you can get help from the government to pay for the apprenticeship training and assessment.

These changes may also be happening as business owners have had time to really think about their work/life balance and how it could help the business to hire additional support in reception duties, marketing or to manage an additional column. A cash flow forecast can be really helpful in checking how it would look for the business if an investment was made into staff.

Apprenticeship incentives are available for apprentices that are hired between 1 April 2021 and 30 September 2021 totalling £3,000 and this can be claimed from 1 June 2021. Prior to this, the incentive payment was £2,000 and this claim ended 31 May for apprentices that started between 1 August and 31 March 2021.

This article offers an overview of some of the areas that should be considered if you are thinking of growing your team. This is a very brief introduction to growing your team but will help to get you started.

Apprenticeships

Renting space versus employment is a complex area but if you are choosing to rent space or have self-employed workers within the business as opposed to employing as staff, be sure to check the employment status to ensure that this does not fall foul of the employees in disguise rules.

Hiring an apprentice is a great way to introduce new talent to the business with a

This can create issues around potential

The minimum wage for an apprentice aged 16 to 18 is £4.30 per hour and if over 19 this rate applies for the first year of the apprentice, then the hourly rate increases to minimum wage for their age.

Self-employed workers

“Hiring an apprentice is a great way to introduce new talent to the business with a fresh perspective and increased loyalty, as your apprentice will earn while they learn.” 78 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST claims for breach of employment rights as well as penalties and sanctions for underpaid taxes if the structure is not set up correctly. It is also important to determine who the self-employed worker is in contract with, i.e. the salon or the customers directly. This could also have a big impact on VAT for the business as the total income could be counted towards the VAT threshold (currently £85,000 for the 21/22 tax year) where contracts are with the salon direct. Visit www.gov.uk/guidance/checkemployment-status-for-tax for support.

Employing staff If you decide that you would like to hire staff, you will need to register with HMRC as an employer and this can be done online. It can take up to five working days to receive an employer reference number once set up and you cannot register more than two months before you start to pay your staff. Processing payroll requires payroll software as returns need to be submitted to HMRC under Real Time Information. HMRC has its own basic PAYE tools software available or if you use a bookkeeping system like QuickBooks, you can add payroll software to your subscription. Employers must deduct income tax and Class 1 National Insurance from staff wages subject to the income thresholds and they also need to pay secondary Class 1 NICs on the earnings. PAYE tax is charged using rates of tax supplied by HMRC. All of this information (wages and deductions) must be reported to HMRC on or before the day that payment is made to staff. Employers then have up to the 22nd of the month after payday, if paying electronically, to pay the total tax and National Insurance due to HMRC. Interest and penalties may be charged on late payments of PAYE and late payroll submissions. There are other administrative duties for employers such as issuing wage slips with each payment, preparing P60 forms at the end of the tax year summarising staff pay and deductions or P11D forms to report any benefits. Staff must be paid the correct rate of pay per hour. The minimum wage rates updated April 2021 are as follows, and the rates change on 1 April every year:

“It is important to check that potential staff have a legal right to work in the UK and that you have obtained employer’s liability insurance as soon as you employ staff.” Other points to consider… In addition to the above, employers have other responsibilities such as managing pension auto enrollment, calculating holiday allowances and managing statutory pay such as sick pay or maternity pay. More information on the auto enrollment duties for employers can be found via www.thepensionsregulator.gov.uk It is also important to check that potential staff members have a legal right to work in the UK and that you have obtained employer’s liability insurance as soon as you employ staff. This is a complex area for business owners, so if you are thinking of

growing a team, it is important to consult with both an accountant and HR advisor to ensure that you receive the correct support and guidance when starting your new journey as an employer. The process to registering as an employer can be daunting but it can also be rewarding for the business to have a strong team, brand and culture. Additional resources and investment in the business is crucial for growth. www.riajaineaccounts.co.uk E: info@riajaineaccounts.co.uk /riajaineaccounts

23 and over

21 to 22

18 to 20

Under 18

Apprentice

£8.91

£8.36

£6.56

£4.62

£4.30

@ria_jaine_accountingforbeauty Join my Facebook group: Salon and beauty therapist UK tax group

Friendly disclaimer: The information contained in this article is for guidance and information purposes only. It should not be relied upon as full and complete accounting, tax or legal advice. For specific advice relevant to your own situation please speak to Ria-Jaine MAAT or another professional directly. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 79

TRAININGSPOTLIGHT

COURSE

Bites Are you chomping at the bit to learn a new skill or get acquainted with a new product range? Sink your teeth into the LECENTÉ EDUCATION PROGRAMME …

ABOUT THE PROGRAMME

Designed to equip nail professionals with both nail knowledge and confidence, Lecenté’s Education Programme offers a blend of virtual and in-person training.

Fully accredited by leading membership organisation, BABTAC, the courses within the programme boast a full day virtual training session, 1-2-1 support and guidance from an educator and an in-person assessment. “Lockdown has Theresa Foddering made us re-evaluate how our education is delivered,” says Theresa Foddering, Lecenté lead educator. “By making the course predominantly virtual, students are able to enjoy greater flexibility when learning.” Rather than offering courses to beginners, Lecenté wants to support the current professional community with its programme of conversion courses. “Some quick education options have left existing nail pros feeling unconfident,” laments Theresa. “Our courses treat everyone like a beginner, ensuring any gaps from previous courses are covered. We want to contribute towards a positive change by providing a high level of education.”

THE COURSES Create Gel Polish Conversion Pre-requisites: Manicure & gel polish certificate Cost: £150 + VAT This two-day conversion course sees a focus on the Create Gel Polish system. It covers product knowledge and all types of application, from one-coat colour to glitter finishes, as well as correct removal and aftercare.

Create Builder Gel Conversion: Natural Nail Pre-requisites: Manicure & gel polish certificate Cost: £200 + VAT A two-day conversion course for technicians looking to specialise in natural nail application. The Create Builder Gel is hard wearing and differs from typical gel polish application, so the training covers correct and safe preparation of the nail, filing, application for different nail types, re-balancing and removal.

Create Builder Gel Conversion: Complete Pre-requisites: Manicure & enhancement certificate Cost: £250 +VAT A two-day conversion course will cover every application method of the Create Builder Gel – from natural nails to enhancements, tips and sculpts. Product and scientific foundations are covered, aiming to leave learners full of knowledge and confidence. 80 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Online access To support their experience, students are given access to an online education portal featuring a range of learning tools. “This allows them to view their course schedule, access training manuals, complete knowledge checks, monitor their progress, upload case studies and exams, as well as receive feedback and support from their educator,” Theresa explains.

THE EDUCATION TEAM “The team used lockdown for further Lecenté training, including training with online platform, Nail Knowledge,” explains Theresa. “They have been teaching workshops online via Lecenté’s social media platforms, and look forward to implementing the Lecenté Education Programme.”

Courses are available at the following locations… East: Theresa Foddering, Haverhill & Ipswich; Claire Howard, Norwich; Antonia Catalano, Peterborough; Jenny Nagorski, Steeple Bumpstead; Abigail Haneman, Chelmsford. South East: Aimee Wynne, Horsham; Sarah Roberts, Maidstone; Emily Geer, Southampton; Tina Bull, Oxon. South West: Michelle Clancy, Tavistock. East Mids: Laura Peat, Derby; Christy Ratcliff, Worksop. Yorkshire & the Humber: Cheryl Furbisher, Bradford. North East: Maria Postma, Middridge. North West: Nina Nicholson, Wigan. Scotland: Kimberley Reid, Dundee. For more information & to book, visit www.lecente.com /lovelecente @lecente.education

@lovelecente

Experts

EXPERTADVICE

ASK THE

Scratch pitches your pressing nail questions to industry experts…

How do I ensure I’m removing cuticle correctly? Answered by: Multi awardwinning nail tech, educator & brand founder, Katie Barnes.

www.katiebarnesacademy.com /KatieBarnesAcademy @katiebarnestoolrange

The cuticle can be unsightly and if not removed from the nail plate correctly, can lead to service breakdown. To safely work on this area, firstly it is essential to understand the difference between the cuticle and the proximal nail fold or eponychium. There is a lot of controversy and misconception in the nail industry and even amongst clients on what should and should not be removed. The fear around cutting the cuticle being dangerous is based on the misconception about what the cuticle actually is. The cuticle is the transparent/white ‘flakey’ tissue that develops as a film over the nail plate. This dead tissue can be safely removed. What many people refer to as the cuticle is the eponychium. This living tissue forms a seal between the nail plate and the skin. On the nail, it’s the visible rim between the skin of the finger and the nail plate itself. As nail technicians, we are not qualified to cut or remove living tissue. Over time, cutting the eponychium can make it grow thicker and faster as a defence method and can lead to thickened scar-like tissue. Regular use of cuticle oil, cuticle removers and leaving the eponychium alone will help improve the appearance. The eponchyium will be more apparent on damaged nails, over-cut eponychium and nail biters, which is what can be so tempting to customers and nail techs to make it appear more aesthetically appealing.

Damage from removal of the proximal nail fold

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The tools you use play a large part in the success of safe cuticle work. Many nail technicians fear a sharp tool, yet it is much more effective than a blunt one. Imagine trying to slice food with a blunt kitchen knife. You will need more force and so tear the food, rather than gently glide through it. The same goes for cuticle tools; use sharp, good quality items and they will glide not tear and rip, which is certainly not a result we want when working on the nails.

A step-by-step guide to effective removal of the cuticle Step 1 Starting ¾ of the way down the nail plate, push back the cuticle growth from the nail plate using a cuticle pusher. Work up and down from side to side or from centre to side, centre to side. I recommend a curved edged pusher to mirror the shape of the cuticle zone and avoid sharp edges catching the skin. Work at a 45-degree angle pushing motion. Hold the tool flat and it will be ineffective. Hold the tool at a right angle and the tool will scratch the nail plate.

Step 2 Use the cuticle knife side of the cuticle pusher tool to remove excess stubborn cuticle, especially around the sidewalls. Use the same angles as in step 1. Step 3 Remove any remaining cuticle or hangnails using cuticle scissors or nippers. The small white pieces of remaining cuticle will be easy to distinguish from the undisturbed eponychium.

Take your scissors and lay them against the fold of skin, including any cuticle you wish to remove, then turn the blade to face upwards. This ensures the cut is made with the sharpest point of the blade facing away from the skin. Don’t pull at the cuticle with your tools — this may pull at the eponychium, causing hangnails or irritation. Using a sharp, high-quality tool will make it easier to remove. Step 4 The final important step is to buff the nail plate. Use this like a cuticle pusher and it will remove any remaining cuticle left on the nail plate. If redness, irritation, discomfort or bleeding occurs then you have removed living tissue. This may not appear until the following day. Always err on the side of caution when working on this area.

EXPERTADVICE

How do I create tortoiseshell effect nail art? Answered by: The Gel Bottle Inc’s resident nail technician, Helena Marimon

How can I create a French tip on short nails? Answered by: CND™ education ambassador, Elissa Newton

The Nail Lady @nail_lady_cnd

It’s easier to create a shorter French style on a client that is blessed with naturally long nail beds. That’s the first thing you should look at. For nails like these, it’s easier to create the illusion of longer, manicured nails by shaping the nails beautifully and adding a thin, elegant white tip at the free edge. If the client doesn’t have long nail beds, remember to make that smile line thinner as you don’t want the nail to look like it is half white and half pink.

For tortoiseshell nail art, I advise using a layering method. Begin with great nail prep, ensuring cuticle is removed from the nail to enable perfect polish application. Apply TGB in Vanilla as a base for your tortie design. Next, apply TGB Blooming Gel & TGB Glass Yellow. This is one of the most essential aspects of a tortie design, as the layering of a translucent yellow will help to blend the brown dots of your nail art later.

Next, with a TGB Round Gel Brush, mix TGB shades Chocolate and Jet Black to create the deep, dark tortie patches. Dab your custom mix in varying tortoiseshell shapes across your nails using the TGB Round Gel Brush. It can be tempting when creating your brown tortie shapes to make them the same on each nail. However, I find that altering your tortie design on each nail gives a more authentic tortoiseshell look. Finish your look with your favourite TGB Top Coat. The Extreme Shine Top Coat gives the most beautiful glossy finish, similar to a real tortoiseshell!

The Gel Bottle’s Tortie Kit £70 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

When working on short nails, I recommend using the size of the nail bed to determine the thickness or thinness of the smile line being created. My number one tip to give the illusion of longer nails is to opt for a beautiful deep smile line when painting and tidying. Rather than going from side to side with a horizontal line, consider more of a sideways ‘C’ curving sweep that’s higher at the sides and slightly deeper towards the centre of the tip. It doesn’t have to be too dramatic like it would be on much longer nails or enhancements, just enough to show off the tips. It can be much easier to create a smile line with gel polish as you can tidy it up before curing the free edge to perfect the technique. A brilliant tool for creating smile lines is the Lecenté A1 Brush. When tidying the smile line using CND™ Shellac™, I like to clean my brush in between with IPA. It’s important to make sure you dry the brush thoroughly or use clear gel to keep the bristles smooth. Practice will make this much easier, and it will become second nature. Remember that you’re the nail pro and your clients can’t do this service at home, so this is your chance to wow them. I trained through the era when every client wanted French and this was the best way to make this technique easier.

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

GROW & GLOW WITH

e i d d a M HOW TO DEAL WITH THE PRESSURES OF SOCIAL MEDIA

ometimes, social media will be your business’ best friend. Other times, it can be your enemy. We all know the power of social media and the reach it can offer, but I’m sure many of you have also felt like it’s just too much to take on – and that’s OK!

Although word of mouth goes a long way, you can’t beat the audience that social media offers and the opportunities it presents to showcase your work and business to new people. However, it’s important not to put too much pressure on yourself to be so present online that you aren’t able to focus on other things that could make your business thrive.

Remember offline salon life Do you need Instagram in order to create a good client base? No, but it can certainly help. I believe that a great client base comes from great customer service. Helping a client look and feel their best after your appointment is what makes a loyal client. How you create that experience for your client makes all the difference! It’s the little things: acknowledge your client as soon as they walk through your door, even if you are with another client. A simple ‘hello’ or ‘I won’t be a minute’ will instantly make them feel at ease and valued. Be enthusiastic and make your client’s experience a positive one. Interact with them and discuss their design choices or ideas and make them feel important. Check on your client throughout the appointment. Ask if they’d like their jacket hung up if they get too hot and ask if their hand is comfortable during their mani. This attention to detail makes your client feel comfortable and relaxed. I’ve learnt that a good, flowing conversation with your client is important. This makes the appointment personal and the client will want to return for both your service, and because they’ve opened up to you and built a rapport.

Switch off from social media It’s really important to create some downtime from social media, especially if it’s regularly getting you down. Like anything, social media can have a positive and negative effect, so being mindful of the way you use it is a great way to reduce pressure. In order to recharge my batteries, I schedule downtime for at least two days. This forces me to take time away from constantly scrolling and allows my mind to take a break from living up to the expectation of posting content every day. 84 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Talented salon tech, nail artist & educator, MADDIE REGAN, shares her advice on salon matters to help your business bloom… I’ve found that this helps when thinking of new ideas for content. It allows my creativity to thrive, rather than scrolling through frantically trying to find new designs to recreate or inspire me.

Content quality worries Are you unsure about how to use social media effectively? Don’t worry, we all start somewhere and social media doesn’t come naturally to us all! Start off small and master the basics: post Instagram Stories to interact with your clients. Take before and after photos to showcase transformations – this helps make writing your captions easier, too. Take as many photos as you can of your client’s hands or your own hands. Once you begin to post, you’ll start to see what posts gain the most interaction. This will help make it easier for you to gauge what your target audience likes to see. Subtle edits can be beneficial. Whether it’s to highlight a nail colour or to add a softer texture to a client’s hands, tweaks can make a big difference. Remember to keep any changes subtle; don’t detract from your hard work with filters or create unrealistic expectations. Choosing good lighting makes a big difference. Natural sunlight is great for a softer, warmer look. White light is great for showing off vibrant colours and high gloss finishes. Play around with what suits your style best and use it to your advantage!

Don’t take it to heart As we all know, social media is a great way to discover new things, promote ourselves, glean inspiration and keep up-to-date with our interests. However, don’t get caught up worrying about the number of likes other users have, or negative comments. Social media should be a positive tool for expanding your client base and discovering new ideas. There’s plenty of opportunity out there for it! Most importantly, do not stress. Remember, social media doesn’t pay your bills – your clients do.

Maddie x www.81rosegarden.com

/81RoseGarden

@maddisonrosenails & @81rosegarden

Are you interested in training with Maddie at The Nail Academy at 81 Rose Garden? Email salon manager, Sam Wetwood: sam@81rosegarden.com.

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INDUSTRYINCLUSIVITY

Powering up with

positivity

Since recognising her innate artistic ability, Michelle Ruiz Lacayo fell easily into the path of nail stylist. However, living with atrophy in one hand led her in a challenging direction… ALEX FOX REPORTS

he began her training at 13 years old and Michelle Ruiz Lacayo of Costa Rica, now 36, claims she was drawn to nails from her early love of art. “I had the natural ability to draw and paint using different techniques, and so translating this onto nails made sense to me,” she reflects. “I love art, I love culture and I see the world in a vast array of colours, therefore each full set of nails I design opens the door to a different creation and vision, which in turn is a unique work of art.” Michelle lives with Poland Syndrome, a rare genetic disease, which affects one in 30,000 newborns every year around the world, with twice as many men than women being impacted. A morphological abnormality of the hemithorax (usually the right side), means this syndrome causes missing or underdeveloped muscles on one side of the body, resulting in abnormalities that can affect the chest, shoulder, arm and hand. In 20% of cases, Poland Syndrome is associated with atrophy of the hand and the upper limb on the same side. The sinus and rib cage may also have an associated abnormality. “I address my disability by accepting myself as I am and exercising my hand and body to avoid pain and complications when working,” confides Michelle. “I love my hands and even though I have this disability, I work with it. “I struggle at times to open containers and to create certain designs and the most complicated thing is doing my own nails. My e-file has to be lightweight, as even when I cut my hair I must be careful. However, I’ve created and formed a way of working that means I can work as a fully functional nail artist. “I see that through the art I create, I not only engender happy clients from my nail services, but I also promote an instinctive happiness and a feeling of beauty in

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people, which in turn transforms and motivates other people to love and accept their body as it is. I’m fulfilling my creative dreams from everyone’s imagination and spreading the joy.”

Sitting pretty With a positive outlook and charm, Michelle describes how she’s moved through her career to the point where she sits loud and proud in the industry of her choice. “When I began working in nails it was very difficult for me; in life everything that matters takes a lot of practice, effort and dedication to overcome limitations and maintain faith. I kept going and I persevered because I knew it was where I should be,” reveals Michelle. “The first thing I had to change was my way of thinking. Then, knowing that despite my limitations there would be a way to make things possible, I started training myself, reinforcing my skills, looking at myself as a complete human being, putting my fears aside and believing in myself. We create all limitations ourselves with the negative language we use.” Embracing nails wholeheartedly, Michelle started her nail training at the National Institute Of Aprendisaje (INA). Later, she was allured by the Cuccio nail brand and trained with Marilyn Olemma Garcia. Then in 2016, she won a global award, known as the ‘Cuccio Effect Around The World’, which gave her the opportunity to educate and train nail students. “It was up to me to make myself known, so I ventured out by starting my own educational programme,” cites Michelle. “After running classes right across Costa Rica, I decided to open my own academy called Mr The Academi in 2017, in which I’ve trained many people in the beautiful art of nails.” Reflecting on highlights of her career Michelle notes, “I was invited by Yohana Rivas to the Latin Nail Cup MEXICO 2019. It was a beautiful experience and a powerful cultural exchange and enlightening with likeminded colleagues from other countries.

INDUSTRYINCLUSIVITY

Quick-fire questions What’s your favourite nail style to create? I like challenges and so my favourite style is whatever my client selects. I love variety and can draw freehand with nail paints. What’s your favourite nail colour? It’s a difficult decision when you’re a lover of all colours, however, I choose red.

“Much of my joy comes from seeing people come in feeling sad and leaving with smiles and the desire to continue fighting. I really feel I’m an instrument of motivation for people.” “The nail industry gives nail artists a free reign for their imagination. It allows me to play with colours, implement creativity through shapes, designs, sizes, accessories and products. It also generates jobs for so many people worldwide, and presents opportunities to showcase our work on global catwalks, thus innovating nail design while uniting with the fashion industry to present new trends.”

Day by day Michelle kicks off a normal day at 6am when she feeds her brood of pets; two dogs and her cow Bluaska, which she hugs every morning for the peace that their bond procures in her. “I balance my energies, practice a little yoga, then eat breakfast, and at 9am start work in my studio, Mr Beauty and Wellness, where I list the day’s agenda, before tending to my clients,” Michelle smiles. “Much of my joy comes from seeing people come in feeling sad and leaving with smiles and the desire to continue fighting. I really feel I’m an instrument of motivation for people. “At night, I work in my pizzeria creating organic, artisan recipes and then much later, I turn to my university studies and work as a coordinator for two organisations that support people with disabilities (CODICORI and DISSAR). It has not been easy during the pandemic, since it forced me to close my studio for four months,

which was devastating. Fortunately, we’ve implemented protocols in conjunction with the Costa Rican government and managed to open safely once again. I take it all one step at a time but it’s not easy as my income was affected by a 70% loss. However, I never give up, this is reality and that even without a pandemic, life has its obstacles.” With a penchant for being challenged, Michelle concedes she’d love to compete on the global nail stage but is reticent until she feels the correct conditions have been met. “It’s one of my greatest wishes; I would love the opportunity to compete and I don’t ask for any advantages, but rather that the event delivers the correct conditions for me to participate. With a future that looks bright and cheerful, Michelle notes, “When I complete my university degree, I’ll be recognised internationally as an influencer and can represent product brands and maybe even create my own nail products. I’ll also write a book about how my life with a disability has panned out.

What are the essential tools in your kit? E-file, brushes, molds, file, nail clippers, buffer, cuticle oil, LED and table lamps, mixing glass, protective glasses and apron. Who do you admire in the nail industry? Many people, but in particular, Tom Bachik. A Hollywood nail artist, he’s responsible for the nail looks for glamorous women such as Jennifer Lopez , Selena Gomez, Kendall Jenner, Kim Kardashian, Heidi Klum and Victoria Beckham. With over 20 years’ experience, Bachik is a key figure in this industry who has helped develop innovative products and application techniques over the years. What are your career highlights? Having my own studio and running a Sunday programme to teach and reach more people through the Facebook Live platform. I’m proud of my increasing presence on social networks, Instagram, Facebook and YouTube. I also enjoy being an inspiration to other people though my work. What is key to your success? Believing in myself, never giving up and practicing the values of honesty, humility and – above all – empathy. What inspires you? The wonders of nature, works of art, cartoons, history. What would you be doing if you weren’t a nail tech? Travelling the world with the message of self-love, improvement and help for those with disabilities. What principles do you live by? Humility, honesty, equality and empathy.

/MRbeautyandwelnessstudio @mr_beauty_and_wellness MR The Academy @mrcostarricense

What’s the biggest nail trend in Costa Rica? Ballerina and almond shapes bearing creative styles of animal print and linear designs with nail art elements added.

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Mindful SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

ma ers

Mental health & wellbeing coach, DAVE HEFFERNAN, offers profound pointers to help you achieve a positive mindset

ust like that, half a year has passed. Much like the last one, this year is also one we won’t be forgetting fast – and why should we? The struggles that we pass through are just as important as the wins. This month, I’d like to invite you to assess the previous six months and understand what lessons you can take to help learn, grow and move forward into the latter half of the year.

ABOUT DAVE HEFFERNAN Dave Heffernan is a coach, speaker and mental health guru. He works with corporates and individuals to create awareness, end stigma and educate on areas surrounding mental health and wellness. Dave has launched programmes to support mental health in the workplace and to create positive, forward-thinking environments in which employees can enjoy working. Born in Salford, Dave dealt with extraordinary life issues including death, grief, abuse, homelessness and violence; but this didn’t hold him back. In fact, it created the momentum and passion that Dave spreads today. As an expert in mental health, Dave has moved from the raw, real-life issues that he’s faced, to helping other people face theirs.

JOIN MY FREE FACEBOOK SUPPORT GROUP

My Stress & Anxiety Support group on Facebook specifically supports those working in the nail and beauty sectors. Join for one-to-one support as well as group support and subsidised training courses and bespoke training. Scan here to sign up or find out more

www.daveheffernan.com /daveheffernanltd

@daveheffernanltd

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How to approach your review For many, the idea of analysing oneself and business is quite daunting, so let’s break it down into manageable sections. Take some time to think about each of these, and remember that this analysis is for you only – this isn’t an exercise in picking holes and criticising yourself. 1. How did you manage the first three months of the year? How we deal with and respond to negative situations is just as important as how we celebrate the wins. Whether you spent your time learning and teaching yourself new skills or sitting back and relaxing, all that matters is your own perception of this time. 2. How did you tackle the reopening process? Back in the April issue of Scratch, I wrote about the steps you could take to get yourself ready for reopening. Now is the time to look back over those and consider the processes you took – are you happy with how it has unfolded? Is there anything you’d change? 3. How do you feel it’s been going so far? Think about how your business has been since you’ve been able to open again. Are there any areas that you’re struggling with? Perhaps you’re looking to increase your client base or it’s taking you longer than expected to feel confident in your skills again. Whatever it is, note it down. Take time to recognise that you’ve got areas to improve upon and make a plan for how you want to get there. Being able to look back at where you’ve been and where you are now is crucial to running a successful and flourishing business, and it helps to get you in the right position for understanding your goals moving forward.

Setting goals for the future When we think about goals, the best way to look at it is to make sure they’re SMART. • Specific: Note down exactly what the goal is and why you want to reach it. • Measureable: How do you know when you’ve reached your goal? • Attainable: Don’t create goals for yourself that you won’t be able to reach. • Relevant: Make sure the goal is aimed to benefit you and your clients specifically. • Time-bound: Give yourself a time limit to reach each goal. Setting your plans against this framework will put you in the best possible place for reaching your targets.

Looking after your mental health Giving yourself the opportunity to reframe a bad situation and take positives from it is so important. The pandemic has exacerbated mental health issues for many people. In fact, a study conducted by Mental Health UK found that four in five business owners reported experiencing common symptoms of poor mental health in the past year – a concerning figure. Whenever I speak with my clients, I reiterate the importance of knowing that problems and failures are not what define you as a person or business owner, but rather how you deal with those experiences and use them to push yourself forwards.

My three golden rules in life: 1. Control the controllables Don’t worry about the things in life that you have no control over, but instead focus your mind on those that you do. 2. Seek the positive in every situation M any of us are wired to go straight to the negative in any situation, making it very hard to move past the issue. If you seek out the positives, you are automatically putting yourself on a better and more balanced platform in order to move forward. 3. Seek the lesson to be learned Whenever anything doesn’t go to plan in life, there’s always a lesson that can be taken to ensure it doesn’t happen again. As the saying goes, ‘There are no failures in life – just lessons’.

TECHTALK

The

nail in the coffin

Alex Fox and James Reeve-Shillito

As soon as lockdown eased & salons were open for business across England, Scratch’s ALEX FOX took the opportunity to meet, greet & get a much-needed nail groom by James Reeve-Shillito…

Nails for Alex Fox by James

hose who know me, will know that I’m a chronic nail-biter. It’s a real issue for me, not a cheeky past-time to annoy industry experts. In fact, quite to the contrary, as what this means is that I value the nail tech most highly. I not only value the skills and creativity, the knowledge and theory that must be accrued, I also really like meeting nail techs of from various walks of life. I like people, and I really like nail techs. So, roll on into the 2020 lockdown and my thirst for people and techs was kept bubbling away thanks to my roles at both Scratch and Nailympia. However, my detrimental nail-biting habit took a turn for the worse. I managed to groom my nails to a level at one point, with quite impressive nail plate prep, clearing of cuticle tissue and pushing back of the eponychium. I managed base, two coats of colour with a sleek top coat finish and was impressed with my swanky blue nails, which took some time to complete (sadly due to my age and the menopause, my nails are ridged to the max these days, which means the finish is never that sexy, unless undertaken by a professional). However, the party was soon over. Chipped nail polish becomes a free ticket to nibbling and soon I was on the road to

“The vision for my nail business is to create a place in which everyone is welcome; any gender, the weirdos and the misfits, as I know not everyone feels comfortable in a standard nail salon.” 90 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

sad, unloved and extremely sad looking nails once more. During the months of January to April I admit I longed for the opportunity to indulge in professional nail grooming. While my nails suffered, I continued with my profession and obsession – looking at, scrolling through and happening upon nail designs from all over the globe. During my mindful reconnaissance I came across an interesting social feed, which combined my love of nails with another interest of mine; plants. The social feed was named auspiciously @nailinthecoffin_nailsbyjames, which intrigued me as I love a play on words, a new angle, fresh view, perspective and nail delivery. I contacted James and was thrilled to find his location to be Peterborough, just one hour’s drive from me. With salons reopening on the 12 April, I hastily scheduled an appointment for Saturday 17 April, knowing my nails would soon be in good hands. On the day in question the roads were surprisingly quiet and I sailed to Peterborough with Radio 2 on full blast, windows down, shrouded in sunlight and delighted to be out of my house for a reason beyond grocery shopping. I found my destination effortlessly. James was ready to receive me and an instant rapport ensued. A full-time insurance executive, James Reeve-Shillito, aka the Nail and Plant Geek, has created a nail salon inside his home. Pressing James on how his love of nails was unearthed, I was not surprised to find his new direction was born from the time afforded inside a pandemic and a fruitful chat with a close friend. Just over one year later and James has set up a nail desk in his home, has taken

TECHTALK

training with Victoria Arpels of Next Step Beauty, is networking furiously, obsessing over YouTube tutorials in search of nail art design ideas and planning the next phases of his nail training with his close friend and nail tech, Denise Mapes of One Stop Nails in Peterborough (@onestop_nails_peterborough) . “It was Denise that put me on the path to nails,” enthuses James. “She and I were discussing career options over dinner in early 2020, then just before the pandemic’s first lockdown in March 2020, I trained, as she said I should go for it, as I was ready to do something creative and nails afforded the solution. Since nails allows me to be creative and also have a laugh with people, it seemed a really feasible option. Before I started doing nails I was working in a vet surgery. I now work for an insurance firm and see my nail clients in the evenings and weekends.” At 31 years old, James has found his new direction. He spends any spare time either researching nail designs or house plants. As he explains to me over the nail desk, “I was working my day job throughout lockdown as I could work from home, so that kept me very busy. Although I continued practicing nails on my practice hand, while my plant hobby also exploded, so I didn’t really have time to breathe. I’m also really drawn to the beach and since lockdown has eased, you will often find me on the beach in Norfolk in the evening, walking the dogs and exploring.” Before my arrival, James had asked me to provide an idea of nail art that excites me. I was quick to admit that during lockdown I’ve become a huge fan of geode nail designs and I’ve watched as the nail trend has stretched far and wide. A new concept to James, he delved into this new nail style,

10 Quick Questions with James Reeve-Shillito 1. Describe an average day… I start by sorting the dogs out and going to my day job. When I get home, I tend to all my house plants, my cat and parrot, before seeing a client for nails now I’m open for business. practiced a few ideas and when I arrived had got a geode nail design in his mind’s eye ready for me. James was kind enough to not comment on the shoddy appearance of my lockdown hands and nails, although he agreed a nail tech was exactly what I needed. My time with James quickly moved from one hour into two, since we had so much to discuss, not least that back in 1995, I too lived in Peterborough. This conversation alone led us down many avenues of chatter and before long my nails were designed and ready to roll. I thanked James for a great session both for my nails and my soul, since he fed into two of my needs in one go and I left with a last word from him on his nail vibe, “I’m trying to put nail work out there that’s a little different. I like very long nails and really like to bring out the ‘wow factor’. The vision for my nail business is to create a place in which everyone is welcome; any gender, the weirdos and the misfits, as I know not everyone feels comfortable in a standard nail salon.” I’m pleased to inform that James’ nail flavour was right up my street! /nailinthecoffinnailsbyjames @nailinthecoffin_nailsbyjames

2. What’s your favourite nail look? Anything with heavy glitter. Ideally a stiletto shape. 3. What are your go-to nail shades? Anything either dark or dark and glittery; you can’t go wrong with black! 4. What are your kit bag essentials? Navy Cuticle Balm and Navy tools: total game-changers! 5. Who do you admire in the nail industry? I’m a huge fan of Kirsty Meakin. Her work is amazing and she’s so down to earth; a real, relatable person. 6. What are your favourite nail brands? I use a variety, although Brillbird and Light Elegance are my favourites. 7. What inspires you? Designs on Instagram and YouTube, as well as everyday life. 8. What principle do you live by? Be comfortable in your own skin. 9. What are your future career goals, ideas & aspirations? I really want my own salon and one day to become an educator. 10. Your vision… To see more men get their nails done. It needs to be the new ‘normal’.

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SALONSPOTLIGHTS

Through the

Keyhole

Take a peek inside salon setups across the UK as Scratch unlocks each door…

@fayelouisedennis Location: Chigwell, Essex

Found at the end of the family home’s garden, Faye Louise Dennis’ studio proffers a chic, city-style décor and the comforts of a home setup. Specialising solely in hand and foot services, the private studio provides the ideal workspace for Faye. “I have had an incredible pedicure station built into a corner that was once overlooked,” smiles Faye. “I carry out luxury Elim pedicures, so it features a sink with running water. “The station has totally transformed my treatments,” Faye continues. “I used to perform my pedicures by placing a client’s leg on my knee from underneath the nail desk, which led to back pain. Now, every measurement is personalised to me. When my clients sit up on my pedicure station, their feet are at eye level. I can clearly see what I am doing and it is much more comfortable for my clients.” As well as exuding comfort, the studio features a stylish and modern French theme. “It coincides with my most popular nail style: the French manicure,” Faye laughs. “The Parisian-inspired décor can be found in the grey shades used and panelled walls. The gold elements are a nod to the classic French Baroque style. There are some touches of gold in the gilded mirror, tap fixtures and the contemporary furniture. “I believe I’ve created an environment that makes my clients feel relaxed, and is sophisticated and super-clean.” @fayelouisedennis

Do you want to be featured on this page? Scan here to submit your salon or setup

Nail Techniques Location: Northampton

The multiple lockdowns hit Corey Jade Stockwell’s salon business hard, meaning relocation was necessary to survive. “The future of the business looked grim,” Corey reveals. “The most important thing was to keep a roof over my family’s heads; as a single mum, it was down to me. “Luckily, I had plenty of room in my garden so work could start to build a studio. I’d sought quotes for the work in the first and second lockdowns, but when the third came, I had no choice – I had to be brave and go for it!” Now, a stunning studio can be found, complete with a décor that brings the great outside in. “It’s very fresh and airy, with lots of natural light,” Corey smiles. “All the walls are bright white and there is a mural feature wall that’s full of flowers, birds and butterflies.” The studio also offers an inspired learning space for Corey’s teaching. “I’m an educator for HD Nail Artist Academy,” she explains. “I wanted to have more freedom to teach and flexibility for my students and can now teach up to six students comfortably in the space. “Currently there are two of us working from the studio, but in the future and as restrictions are lifted, I have the room to expand if I wish. Going forward I’m hoping to have a better work and home life balance thanks to the studio, too.” 92 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

www.nailtechniques.co.uk

@nail_techniques_cozmo

Solo Beauty – Workington, Cumbria

There’s nothing more rewarding than helping to achieve the vision and dreams of a successful business. Working with Amelia Wilson Interiors on the Solo Beauty project gave us the opportunity to showcase some of our finest furniture. Owner Kerry Hayston chose the REM Dream Pedispas, Florence Nail Bars and Futura Seating for her stunning Workington Beauty Salon.

t: 01282 619 977 e: sales@rem.co.uk w: www.rem.co.uk

NA I L s g n i p Clip SCRATCHMEDIA

... HINCHED NAILS!

Sophie Hinchliffe, aka. Mrs Hinch, who has made a name through sharing cleaning hacks on Instagram, showed off a minty fresh manicure courtesy of nail tech, Tracy Lou. The mani was in preparation for the arrival of Sophie’s second son.

in_daria

Instagram

.com/trac

Team Scratch is always seeking out the hottest nail trends and swirl nail art has caught our eye. Since reopening, this nail trend is being sported all over social media and we are loving it!

ylousnails

❤

CHLOE RANDALL surfs the ‘net to uncover the hottest nail topics & tales on social media sites & get the scoop on celebrity beauty must-haves

.com/silk

beauty.u

stagram.com/Aj_mclean

Instagram

.com/melan

DID YOU KNOW?

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hbladenail am.com/switc

Instagram

BACKSTREET’S BACK

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Backstreet Boy member, AJ McLean, can be seen enjoying a manicure in the video for his latest single, Love Song Love. But did you know, he released his own nail polish line last year? He named it Ava Dean Beauty, after his daughter. The 43-year-old has been painting his nails for over 20 years and during the band’s peak in the late 90’s, AJ claims it was his way of setting him apart from his bandmates. His new music video focuses on self-acceptance and inclusivity with this also being the ethos for his brand.

Disney has announced that it is making significant changes to its ‘Disney Look’ guidelines for all cast members, to improve its inclusivity focus. A big part of the revision is the removal of all gender references. The company said that all cast members now have the same options for make-up, jewellery and nail polish.

MILLIE BOBBY BROWN’S SACRIFICE

In an interview with Elle, Millie Bobby Brown revealed that while filming for the hit series Stranger Things, she couldn’t wear any nail products. She revealed that she loves experimenting with nail art, so having to sacrifice her nail styling was ‘so depressing’.

bnguyen

m.com

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Instagra

The 93rd Academy Awards (the Oscars) took place in Los Angeles, celebrating achievements within the film industry. Film stars took to the red carpet with elegant hair styles, gorgeous outfits and beautiful manicures. Here are some of our favourite nail styles sported on the night…

Instagram

OSCAR-WORTHY NAIL STYLES

/nailsbym

SCRATCHMEDIA

mieky om/kim ram.c

Tom Bachik created an elegant 90’s glam manicure for Margot Robbie.

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ees

ombachi

Thuy Nguyen used OPI products, including shade ‘I’m an Extra’ to create a sophisticated look for Reese Witherspoon.

A classy manicure by Kimmie Kyees for actress, Laura Dern.

GIGI’S BIRTHDAY GIFT

Gigi Hadid’s birthday nails by Mei Kawajiri were a technicolour take on the alternative French nail trend and feature a colour block design with bright and bold hues, including turquoise, fuchsia and neon green. With an oval nail shape, fans were fascinated by this look and have tried to recreate the style at home.

Art attack

Instagram

Images courtesy of Instagram.com/lockdown_nailart

.com/nailsb

ymei

Passionate painter, Tara Aleck, has become Insta-famous since the start of the pandemic, as she utilised her time to work on her nail art skills – which have been grabbing some serious attention. Tara has recreated nail-sized versions of renowned paintings, such as Vincent van Gogh’s Starry Night, Edvard Munch’s The Scream and René Magritte’s The Son of Man. Check out her Instagram page, @lockdown_nailart

XOXO GOSSIP GIRL

Actress, Blake Lively sported an intricate New York City inspired manicure by artist, Mei Kawajiri. From the Statue of Liberty to a New York Yankees cap, the hand painted artistry captured Blake’s favourite elements of NYC. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 95

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3 Months Free Insurance If you were a member with ABT last June then you will remember we sent you, your own one use, unique discount code to use at your next renewal and it’s valid until September 2021 so this is just a reminder to use your code to take advantage of the 3 months free insurance offer! Make sure you are keeping those codes safe as it’s our BIGGEST EVER discount off your membership & insurance package, but also any treatment extensions that you might have, which could make a really BIG saving to your insurance for the year! T&Cs apply.

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ABT’s unique membership website delivers up to date Beauty, Hairdressing, Industry and Lifestyle news. Designated member area offering tailored benefits, discount and unique content. As well as free salon signage and ABTs Guide to COVID-19 we are keeping you up to date with ABT’s stance on industry topics as they happen such as, patch testing after COVID-19, The Importance of Consultation Cards, Track and Trace and A Guide to Salon Safety.

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NAILDESIGNS

We’ll have what @gracenicolenails’ client is having – an assortment of delectable cocktails!

This fun design by @_unique_veronique_ features fruits encapsulated at the tip and a 3D cocktail glass.

Say ‘cheers’ to this matte black cocktail nail design by @lovelyjuanita, featuring retro bar-themed artistry.

Fingernails in

Focus

Are clients craving cocktails as warmer weather approaches? Check out with CALLIE ILEY’S roundup of reader designs that will leave you thirsty for more…

A Cosmo calls for @luminousnails, who pairs hot pink nail tips with a touch of sparkle and a classy cocktail.

Do you fancy a Mojito, Espresso Martini or Daiquiri? @nailitbychloe offers them all over a white base.

A pretty purpley-pink provides the perfect backdrop for creative beverage design, courtesy of @nailsthatmatch.

Watercolour styling affords a holiday feel in this design by @houseofbeauty_bysandy featuring fruity fimo slices.

@deannastelmaschuk serves up a bright, summery design, adorned with colourful 3D cocktails and mini umbrellas.

@nailandcreate uses summery nail polish shades to create icy cocktails over an ombré base.

To be in with the chance of seeing your nail snaps on this page, share them with us on social media using #showscratch or email editorial@scratchmagazine.co.uk 98 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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