Scratch Magazine September 2022 by scratchmagazine

AUTUMN COLLECTION

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Nineteen years of... ®

Issue 233 Managing editor Helena Biggs helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk Publisher Scott Derbyshire scott.derbyshire@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writers Chloe Randall chloe.randall@scratchmagazine.co.uk Rebecca Hitchon rebecca.hitchon@scratchmagazine.co.uk Callie Iley callie.iley@scratchmagazine.co.uk Art editor Jessica Wilkie jess.wilkie@scratchmagazine.co.uk Group sales manager Ian Archbold ian.archbold@scratchmagazine.co.uk Accounts Lisa Ebbens lisa.ebbens@scratchmagazine.co.uk Co-founder Alex Fox Editorial/Advertising office 1 The Courtyard, Market Square, Westerham, Kent TN16 1AZ

T: +44 (0) 1959 547 000 ISSN 2635-0327 Contributors Kirsty Mawhinney, Marian Newman BEM, Annabel Maginnis, Vicki Boddice, Sam Marshall, Sadie Jordan, NHBF

on, it’s an change of seas s we welcome a s you ge an ch e emplat apt time to cont sure en to s es sin bu ur can make to yo term, t or sh ess. In the continued succ in be to t se s nd tre explore the nail d make an 38 ge pa on tumn/winter demand this au oducts required d out with the pr te kit e w u’r sure yo ge 92 to note ho Then, turn to pa . em th te ion nt ea te cr at to attract ur nail photos to to change up yo w clients. ne m fro s) ing book (and hopefully e thinking ideration. If you’r ire greater cons qu re ay n be m ca s fits ge menu, the bene Longer-term chan ce to your salon talk to rvi e, se lin w on ne a ch g ar about addin e diligence. Rese du ur yo event to do de to need and attend a tra huge – but you business owners w llo fe d an ts u invest. educators, clien close before yo d techniques up see products an highs of As we read of the is on the horizon? also try en we , on 50 titi ge pe Perhaps a com ds winners on pa ratch Stars Awar as well as , Sc r on ou titi m pe m fro g co competin tering an industry vice note prior to en to heed some ad explore points to turn to page 70 ply s Sim es t. sin en bu ev d an the l r te na during and af t your professio or pp su n ly ca tru ts t bu ch even can be a scary and learn how su mpetition arena co a o int ing development. Div rience. beneficial expe e of the , which are som ing and growing olv ev prepare, y to ntl il ta ‘fa ns the old adage, This industry is co citing, however that you ex al vit so it it’s d y, fin ivit I at y reasons wh ercising your cre ex e sid ng r basis, Alo ula e. gs tru penditure on a reg prepare to fail’ rin d review your ex an ht-out s ug ed tho ne ll s es We althy business. assess your busin he a re su en them! to ssary steps gevity. Embrace taking the nece ultimately aid lon n ca , all sm or r big changes, howeve Until next month,

Do you need to renew or update your Scratch subscription? Call +44 (0) 1580 883 844

Subscriptions Curwood CMS Ltd T: 01580 883844 Printer The Magazine Printing Company Mailing House Mailing & Fulfilment MK Ltd

Helena Biggs Managing editor +44(0)1959 547 000 helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk

COVER CREDITS Images courtesy of Manucurist Shades shown are Aubergine, Dune and Poppy Seed from the Flea Market collection. Available via pro.manucurist.com

Image courtesy of Lecenté showcasing the Inner Artist nail collection, available via www.lecente.com / www.sweetsquared.com / www.ellisons.co.uk /lovelecente

@lovelecente

Photographer: Ellie Thomas Nail stylist: Theresa Foddering Model: Tifany Sahili

@elliethomasphoto @thenaildresser

@tifaqui_

www.scratchmagazine.co.uk www.olympiabeauty.co.uk www.nailympia.com The publisher of Scratch magazine has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the information detailed in Scratch is correct at the time of going to print, and while every care is taken to avoid inaccuracies, the publisher does not accept responsibility for any errors or omissions from any information within this or previous editions. © 2022 SEED PUBLISHING LTD

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DEEPER SIDE OF

Contents SEPTEMBER 2022

FEATURES 18 Unleash The Artist

Nail brand, Lecenté, shares the ethos behind this month’s cover image & tales from its photoshoot

28 Trade Show Talk

As we count down to Olympia Beauty, its director shares what we can expect from this year’s event

38 10 Top Nail Trends For Autumn/Winter

Stay ahead of the nail game with shades & styles you need to note for the seasons ahead

48 Home Sweet HONA

Get the scoop on the Home Of Nail Art product launch that’s making waves across the nail sector

50 The Scratch Stars Party 2022

Take a peek at photos from the biggest party in the UK nail industry calendar & reactions from the winners

58 The Willow Way

An insight into Willow Academy’s training offerings, e-file machines & various bits to benefit your nail needs

64 5 Ways To Reduce Business Costs

A nail tech & accountant serves up simple ways to review your expenditure & help cut costs

66 A Green Revolution

Scratch puts the spotlight on Manucurist, a French nail brand with an eco-friendly ethos & mood-boosting products

70 Ready, Set, Compete!

Are you considering competing in a nail comp? Explore the journey, from signing up to post-event

82 Overcoming Adversity

Four nail pros reveal how they’ve navigated life-altering events to carve out a successful career

92 Picture Perfect

Achieve nail photo perfection for social media posts & more with top tips from experts

98 Competition Queens

A Greek nail team with a multitude of award wins shares its secrets to success & stunning creations

90 REGULARS

10 22 24 30 34 46 60 62 68 74 78 80 86 90 96 104 106

Nail Nation The Hot List The Scratch Scoop Calendar Girl The Force Of The Feds Sustainability Steps Just Add Glitter Girl Power Getting Down To Business Readers Gallery Notes From The Beauty Guru Through The Keyhole Scratch Pads Style With Sadie Scratch Stats Nail Clippings Fingernails in Focus

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Nail NATION

business

news & views

HD Nail TV launches to offer nail education at a learner’s own pace

Nail & beauty salons among top retailers boosting high streets Independent beauty and grooming services are reinvigorating British high streets, according to data analysed by Superscript, an insurance provider for small and medium-sized enterprises. The data, sourced from Local Data Company, identified the UK’s top growing independent retail categories by examining changes in net units over the past five years. Beauty dominates the top five of these retail categories, with barbers growing the most in number since 2017. Beauty and nail salons scooped the second and fifth spots respectively for net unit growth over that time. In a survey of shoppers by Superscript, over half of Britons revealed that they are more likely to visit a health and beauty premises than any other type of independent retailer on the high street, and one in four Brits said that hairdressers, barbers and salons will continue to bring them to the high street, despite the rising cost of living. Cameron Shearer, CEO at Superscript, comments: “Local independent retailers are the future of our high streets. Our study found that, despite the increasing cost of living, 66% of Brits are continuing to go to the high street primarily to support local business owners. “This suggests that the longevity and future of the high street depends on the human connection that retailers can foster with the public. This is why local independents – like barbershops and beauty salons – are best placed to thrive, while chain department stores will have to find other ways to appeal.” www.gosuperscript.com

Multi award-winning nail stylist and educator, Hazel Dixon, has launched HD Nail TV, a subscription service for nail education. Ideal for existing nail professionals who wish to enhance their knowledge and skills, a new series will be released each month based on a system, technique or style. Each series will feature Hazel Dixon a minimum of eight episodes, covering chemistry, health & safety, application techniques, nail art tutorials, business advice and more. “The nail industry moves at such a fast pace and is facing a number of issues, so I knew I had to do something to promote facts and support techs in their career journey,” comments Hazel, who scooped the Scratch Star Award for Services to the Nail Industry 2022. “As much as I love social media and the internet, they are home to a lot of false information, so HD Nail TV is my way to help the industry move forward. “I believe that beginners always learn best in a hands-on environment, with their educator by their side watching and helping them. The HD Nail TV series is for existing techs who can watch and learn around their busy schedules. “As the series develops, the content will get more in-depth and cover shapes, competitions, Fantasy Nails and so much more.” Subscribers will gain access to the monthly series they have purchased and can refer back to it while an active subscriber. Sign up to the HD Nail TV subscription for £29.99 per month via www.hdnailacademyonline.com Scan here to watch our interview with Hazel about HD Nail TV

Scratch Star nominee secures role at Louella Belle Louella Belle, distributor of Morgan Taylor, Artistic Nail Design, Famous Names and Footlogix products, has appointed Suzanne Clayton as brand development manager. Suzanne, aka ‘Souz’, was a 2022 nominee for the Scratch Stars Nail Sector Visionary Award and founded the Nail Tech Awareness Facebook group. With 25 years’ experience as a nail tech, she will be supporting the growth of the brands in the Louella Belle portfolio. She comments: “For several years, I have been helping nail techs in any way I can, from organising seminars to being a part of various Facebook groups sharing knowledge, expertise and nail art. I’m honoured to join the Louella Belle team and am excited for what’s next.” www.louellabelle.co.uk 10 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

business

Nail NATION Report urges govt to ‘speed up’ licensing regime for non-surgical cosmetic procedures The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) has welcomed a report from the Commons Health & Social Care Committee, which urges the government to speed up the introduction of the licensing regime for non-surgical cosmetic procedures. It is hoped that a stringent licensing initiative for treatments such as fillers, Botox, chemical peels, microdermabrasion and non-surgical laser treatments will prevent vulnerable people from being exploited and ensure that premises are hygienically fit for purpose. “The recommendations in the Health & Social Care Committee’s report are well-considered and helpful,” comments Caroline Larissey, director of quality & standards at the NHBF. “The NHBF is pleased to see on the back of our written evidence, recommendations around specific premises standards, with enforcement powers attached and a qualifications and training framework as a central Caroline Larissey pillar to the future licensing regime.” Other recommendations in the report include the suggestion of online advertising carrying a logo, in order to identify digitally altered body images. “A proposed taskforce makes sense in bringing together the different regulatory bodies, and it’s essential that the hair and beauty sector is represented here,” Larissey continues. “We have also consistently called for a central point of contact for advice and guidance for the public. In line with the report, we are keen to push on, engage in the government’s consultation process and deliver better public safety.” www.nhbf.co.uk

Studex unveils Super Brave Campaign for piercing partners Ideal for premises offering Studex piercing services or considering them as an addition to their treatment menu, the ‘Super Brave’ pack has launched to help children remember and enjoy their first piercing experience. It includes numerous keepsake materials that add a personalised touch for each child, including Super Brave Kids Certificates, Super Brave Stickers, Super Brave ‘My First Earrings’ keepsake cards and a Studex teddy bear, as well as a calendar and badge. The calendar features a six-week schedule, which is the healing time for piercing with Studex Aftercare Solution (or three weeks with the Studex Advanced Aftercare Solution). The back of the calendar shows information including instructions on how to clean a piercing and the importance of the positioning of safety butterflies. Purchase via www.studexuk.com and visit the Studex team at Olympia Beauty 2-3 October on stand E44.

12 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

IN MEMORIAM:

Steven Rhys Wells The team at Scratch magazine is saddened by the passing of Steven Rhys Wells, an exceptional nail stylist, creative and educator who was active in the nail industry in the mid 2010s. Welsh native, Steven, worked as an educator and creative director for Cuccio, and travelled the world to demonstrate nail techniques and share his product knowledge. Renowned for his kindness, skill and sweet temperament, he became a friend of the team at Scratch, and his creative concepts and nail skills featured on the covers of the December 2012, April 2014 and May 2016 editions.

Scratch presented Steven with the Shooting Star accolade at the Scratch Stars Awards 2013. “The Shooting Star award is for an individual, team or company that has made a significant impact on the nail sector within a short space of time,” comments Scratch‘s managing editor, Helena Biggs.

Steven receiving the Scratch Stars Shooting Star Award in 2013

“Steven excited the nail industry with his talent and had such an impact on everyone he met throughout his travels. His creativity, fresh perspectives and willing to support and help fellow professionals deserved to be recognised. He was a truly inspirational individual.” Scratch sends its heartfelt condolences to the loved ones and peers of wonderful, passionate and talented Steven Rhys Wells.

With Scratch’s Helena Biggs

Demonstrating Cuccio products

N EW N ! O AV AI LA BL E

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Nail NATION LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER & ENGLAND NETBALL PARTNER FOR FUNDRAISER Cancer support charity, Look Good Feel Better, has joined forces with England Netball to host a tournament to raise money for the charity. These funds will go towards its work improving the wellbeing of people living with cancer via beauty workshops. On Saturday 17 September at Warwick University, the event will give 30 netball teams from across the UK the chance to benefit from professional coaching and umpiring from England Netball, meet elite netball athletes and win prizes. Since being founded in 2017, the tournament has raised over £121,000, helping Look Good Feel Better provide support to over 2,500 people living with cancer. The charity’s free workshops are led by trained volunteers in the beauty and health industries and provide practical advice about changes to skin, eyebrows, eyelashes, hair, nails and body confidence, as well as reduce feelings of isolation and anxiety. “After an enforced two-year hiatus, we are thrilled that our popular charity netball tournament is back and in a fantastic new home,” comments Ian Daniels, director of fundraising at Look Good Feel Better. “As well as raising vital funds for people living with cancer, we want to ensure all participating players and spectators have a great experience.” www.lookgoodfeelbetter.co.uk

Jessica introduces nail range with bio-sourced ingredients Jessica Cosmetics has expanded its portfolio with a plant-based nail polish collection, formulated with 83% vegetal biomass ingredients derived from sugarcane, cassava, cotton and corn. Quick drying, the 24 shades in the BioPure collection offer a high gloss finish and are complemented by the BioPure Base Coat, Top Coat and Remover. The range has been created using eco-conscious manufacturing processes and standout hues include the punchy coral Marigold and teal Green Scene. Each 13.3ml nail colour, base coat and top coat is £7.85 + VAT/RRP £15 and 12-piece salon displays are available to house chosen hues. The BioPure Remover is acetone-free and priced at £7.35 + VAT/ RRP £14. Available via www.gerrardinternational.com

Nail educator launches planner to support success Esteemed pro and educator, Rebecca Orme, has launched The Nail Tech Success Planner, designed to help nail technicians organise their business schedule. Featuring dividers to keep each section clear and tidy, the planner includes: • Daily activity pages for scheduling each day’s tasks. • Appointment schedule. • Three calendar views. • Inspirational and motivational buzzwords and phrases. • Social media blueprint. • Business plan. • Pricing strategy. • Wage planner. • Running costs tracker. • Monthly direct debit payment planner. • Easy profit calculator. Available via www.rebeccaorme.co.uk

NAIL & BEAUTY BITES Beauty Boss HQ has appointed Charlene Trinsi as its marketing manager, to promote the benefits of Beauty Boss to professionals. Charlene, based in Bournemouth, will be supporting the Beauty Boss Academy’s mission to help beauty and aesthetic businesses make more money. www.thebeautybossacademy.co.uk 14 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NovaLash has unveiled a ‘Bundle and Save’ initiative for NovaLash certified lash artists to help them operate with ease and achieve success. Each bundle contains essential products needed to offer NovaLash services, with a 20% discount. Three options are available: The Mini Bundle, The Bundle and The Aftercare Bindle. www.novalash.co.uk

The Nail Lab UK adds three tools to prep & design product range A hybrid cuticle tool, cuticle scissor and brush set has been added to The Nail Lab UK’s portfolio of nail products. The Madrid mixes the comfort of scissors with the precision of nippers, while The Miami is a flexi-arm cuticle scissor designed for comfort and ease of use. The Brush Range is available as a complete set of 10 for £120, or from £12.50 per brush, and features high quality brushes for nail art and product application. Available via www.thenail-lab.co.uk

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Nail NATION Minnesota woman’s 42ft nails make history as longest nails ever Diana Armstrong of Minnesota, USA, has been honoured with Guinness World Records titles for longest fingernails on a pair of hands (female) and longest fingernails on a pair of hands ever (female). The grandmother’s 4ft 10.4in (1306.58 cm) long fingernails surpass the previous record holder, Ayanna Williams, by 18ft 9.7in. The reason behind Diana’s fingernail growth is a sad one. Back in 1997, her daughter Latisha, then 16-years old, painted Diana’s nails, as she did every weekend. The next morning, it was discovered that Latisha had passed away in her sleep due to an asthma attack. Diana hasn’t been able to bear cutting her fingernails since. Diana has been turned away from a number of nail salons due to the length of her nails, so she lets her grandchildren paint and file them, which can take up to five hours per nail and 20 bottles of nail polish. Craig Glenday, Guinness World Records editor-in-chief comments: “The story behind her record is as fascinating as it is heartbreaking, and Diana’s determination to honour her daughter’s legacy in her unique way is inspiring. Family means everything to Diana, and she’s lucky to have gathered around her a wonderful support network, which is what you need when each of your fingernails is longer than a ski pole.” www.guinnessworldrecords.com

DATES FOR THE DIARY

British Beauty Week plays host to a series of in-person and online seminars and events, H S I T BRI courtesy of the British Beauty K E E W BEAUTY Council. This year’s theme is ‘the power of beauty’, with beauty businesses of all sizes enco uraged to create engaging initiatives to dem onstrate this effect. www.britishbeautyweek.co.uk

5-11 ER B SEPTEM

Explore product offerings and view demos at the intimate PIA NAILTO OW Nailtopia trade event, SH taking place 10am-4pm TRADE at the Aston Hall Hotel, Sheffield. www.nailtopiatradeshow.co.u k Scan here to watch Scratch’s interview with Nailtopia founder, Rachel Allen

18 R BE SEPTEM

2-3 R E OCTOB

PIA NAILYMON D N O L

Nailympia

Following a two-year hiatus, Nailympia returns COMPETITION for 2022 to its flagship LONDON 2022 dest ‘ ination in London. Sign up to compete in up to eight categories taking place across the two-day event via www.naily mpia.com.

Uncover new treatments, immerse in education and competitions, and purchase stock for the new A OLYMPIY season at autumn’s leading BEAUT beau ‘ ty trade event, Olympia Beauty, in London. Register for your free ticket to attend at www.olympiab eauty.co.uk

2-3 R E OCTOB

Join Scratch on the Nail Stage at Olympia Beauty, London for the live reveal of OUT SHOOT S the winners of The Great R E N N I W ED Scratch Shoot Out REVEAL photographic nail competition. Unable to attend? We’ll be streaming the results live on Fac ebook and Instagram! www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/sho otout

3 ER OCTOB

GIVEAWAY!

The Smart Group will be giving away a Smart Diode Pro laser hair removal system worth £16,950 to one lucky visitor to Olympia Beauty 2-3 October. The prize includes full training, installation and warranty. Register to attend Olympia Beauty via www.olympiabeauty.co.uk and visit The Smart Group on stand E10 for an opportunity to win. www.the-smartgroup.co.uk

NAIL & BEAUTY BITES

The Hair & Beauty Charity joined forces with the Hairdressing & Beauty Suppliers Association (HBSA) for a charity golf day in Daventry, at which they raised over £4,400 to support those that call on the charity for help. www.hairandbeautycharity.org

16 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Haircuts4Homeless, the charity set up by hairdresser, Stewart Roberts, has teamed up with Angel Central to showcase portrait photographs and intimate quotes from its Hear Me, See Me book. The exhibition aims to raise awareness of the charity and humanise the face of homelessness, and will be open to the public every Friday to Sunday in September until 18 September. www.haircuts4homeless.com

Channel 5’s 10 Years Younger in 10 Days programme highlighted the benefits of CACI Synergy, when Faye, 51 from Hertfordshire was treated to a nonsurgical Synergy Facial with added Jowl Lift courtesy of skin expert, Nilam Holmes. TV presenter, Cherry Healey, was also featured experiencing the facial in the programme’s opening credits. www.caci-international.co.uk

Unleash COVERSTORY

the

Artist Brush up on your nail styling skills & perfect your painting prowess with a helping hand from Lecenté. Here, the brand details the ethos of its latest campaign, featured on this month’s cover… CHLOE RANDALL REPORTS

he mark of a great nail artist is creativity and the ability to paint precisely on the tiny canvas of the nail. From dots and stripes to intricate portraits, there are various degrees of nail design, and nail brand Lecenté is encouraging every tech to unleash their creativity through its latest marketing campaign and nail collection. Featuring eight Lecenté Create gel polish shades and five bright Dabbing Foils, the Inner Artist collection affords a wealth of design opportunities, from simple colour additions to complex creations. The striking shades are accompanied by a series of images, one of which features on the cover of this Scratch issue, to support the brand’s message. “The photoshoot concept was planned alongside the theme of the collection and shade names,” reveals Ellie Thomas, marketing co-ordinator at Lecenté and photographer for the campaign. “Following this, the details of the shoot were finalised, including the styling, pose ideas and location, then we decided on a model. Our model, Tifany, featured in our February campaign Ellie Thomas and as soon as we confirmed the concept, we knew she had to be the subject, as she is so creative.”

shoots, we always decide on a colour scheme and then consider clothes we already have from past shoots, or I go shopping and bring the shades with me to find items that complement them. “I often look in charity shops to style sustainably, and for our Inner Artist campaign, I found some fitting beige cargos that suited the shoot perfectly. Regarding Tifany’s pose, I wanted to keep things free and unplanned to give the campaign a sense of freedom and authenticity. “The shot on this month’s Scratch cover was just a moment I caught while Tifany was experimenting with poses. I felt that this shot encapsulated both the creativity and relaxed vibe we wanted to communicate through this campaign.” Lecenté had originally planned for the photoshoot to take place outside, but temperamental UK weather forced the shoot indoors into a studio, with the desired images captured within an hour and a half.

When it came to the perfect shot, the team at Lecenté wanted to be somewhat spontaneous on the day to capture the creative prowess of the team and essence of the collection.

“The shoot took less time than our other campaigns as we decided to have just one model with one set of nails featuring all the Inner Artist colours, rather than a variety of nail and outfit changes,” adds Ellie.

“Canvases and paint brushes were chosen as props to complement the collection’s ethos,” Ellie continues. “In terms of styling for our

“As with all of our shoots, there was a relaxed, fun vibe, which made the experience enjoyable for the entire team.”

18 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

COVERSTORY

MEET THE SHADES

The bold shades in the Inner Artist collection are highly pigmented; ideal for both full coverage nail styles and artistic designs. Each shade is £11.99 + VAT.

NAIL TALK

Lecenté’s head of education, Theresa Foddering aka The Naildresser, created the front cover nail style. “I am an artistic Theresa Foddering nail technician and my own brand logo is a paint splash, so for the Inner Artist nail look, arty brushstroke nails were an obvious choice,” she reveals. “The look is so quick to achieve and very effective; a true reflection of an inner artist!”

STEP-BY-STEP:

Expression

Frida

Gallery

Mona

1. Apply one coat of Lecenté Create in Versailles and cure. 2. Apply all eight shades from the Inner Artist collection randomly across the nails. Use a light and upward brush flick and flash cure between each shade application. Layer colours slightly over one another before a full cure. 3. Apply Lecenté Create Top Coat and cure.

Painting the future

Mural

Pablo

Muse

Sketch

The bright Dabbing Foils are designed to be dabbed onto a cured layer of Foil Gel. Ideal for creating abstract designs, each foil is £3.99 + VAT.

“In addition to the exciting products we are releasing this year, we are also continuing to enhance and add to our education Katrina Ross offering with accredited courses and online workshops,” reveals Katrina Ross, head of marketing & communications. “Our goal is to create great products, to educate to the highest standard, to inspire people with relatable content, to service the nail industry and to provide a sense of support and community to our users, where they feel comfortable asking questions and sharing who they are as a nail artist.”

Canvas

Creativity

Pop

Sculpture

Lecenté products are available in the UK via www.lecente.com, www.sweetsquared.com and www.ellisons.co.uk /lovelecente @lovelecente @lovelecente /lovelecente

Splatter

COVER CREDITS Photographer: Ellie Thomas @elliethomasphoto Nail stylist: Theresa Foddering @thenaildresser Model: Tifany Sahili @tifaqui_

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 19

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NEWPRODUCTS

Salon System Lash & Brow Lift Trio Kit £24 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide. Lift lashes and laminate brows with the products in this handy trio pack. It includes 10 sachets each of the Lift, Fix and Boost Lotions which lift lashes for up to eight weeks and brows for three to four weeks. The convenient, individual sachets allow for optimum hygiene practice and are ideal for both mobile and salon-based pros.

OPI GelColor Fall Wonders collection £18.70 + VAT each www.trade.opiuk.com Offer clients up to three weeks’ wear of colour this autumn with a pick of the 12 shades in the OPI Fall Wonders collection. Inspired by nature, the collection taps into the elements of water, earth, air and fire for a hue to suit any client desire. The shades are also available in OPI’s Infinite Shine and Nail Lacquer formulas, with selected shades in Powder Perfection.

List THE HOT

Scratch scours the industry for the latest nail & beauty products to captivate clients & lend a helping hand LCN MicroSilver Protecting Cream to your services

£8.95 + VAT www.lcnuk.co.uk Protect and enrich feet at the end of a pedi service with this anti-ageing cream. It features ingredients to prevent the excessive growth of germs on the skin and consequently inflammation, and polyphenole from magnolia helps to support the antibacterial effect. Also available in a 300ml size for £29.75 + VAT.

Scarlett Senter New Orleans Collection £18.99 inc VAT www.scarlettsenter.co.uk The vibrancy and fun of New Orleans has influenced 10 stunning new glitters from nail artist, Scarlett Senter. The biodegradable, cosmetic grade glitters feature a combination of chunky and fine flecks to achieve a multitude of eye-catching looks. New Orleans is available as a complete collection, or individually in 10g pots, for £3.50 inc VAT.

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Maskology Foot Peel £4.95 + VAT. Available via leading wholesalers and www.maskology.co.uk Banish hard, callused skin with this handy foot mask, featuring a formula of over 16 botanical and fruit extracts. The plantbased, 90-minute treatment helps soften and smooth skin to improve texture, and uses salicylic and glycolic acid to dissolve and exfoliate dead skin cells.

NEWPRODUCTS

Magpie Beauty Matte Glitter Collection £19.75 + VAT www.magpiebeauty.co.uk Add a fun and seasonal twist to autumnal nail styles with these five new glitters from Magpie Beauty. Encapsulate Citrine, Clementine, Lavender, Rosalyn and Candy within L&P or gel enhancements, or burnish over gel polish before applying top coat.

Lecenté Manicure & Pedicure Range from £5.99 + VAT www.lecente.com / www.sweetsquared.com / www.ellisons.co.uk Condition and moisturise hands and feet with Lecente’s sumptuous mani/pedi products, including Scrub (£7.99 + VAT), Lotion (£5.99 + VAT) and Soak (£5.99 + VAT). Lightly fragranced, the scrub contains bamboo to encourage cell renewal, while the lotion features shea butter and argan oil to leave skin feeling soft. The soak gently cleanses the skin and has a fresh floral scent.

Halo Gel Polish Cosmic Collection £5.49 + VAT each www.purenails.co.uk Take clients on a journey of colour discovery with the six glittering shades in the Halo Gel Polish Cosmic collection. The out-of-this-world colours include deep green Saturn and navy sparkle Mercury. Highly pigmented, the formula offers around 14 days of chip-free wear.

HD Foil It! Gel £10.99 + VAT www.hazeldixonnails.com Offer great adhesion for nail art foils with this tacky foil gel. Ideal for both full cover designs and adding elements of shining artistry, the foil gel is available in Clear for a no-fuss finish.

Manucurist Flea Market Collection from £7 inc VAT pro.manucurist.com Embrace the warm tones of autumn and a go-to nude with the three latest additions to the Manucurist colour range. The deep purple Aubergine, sandy beige Dune and bluegrey Poppy Seed are each available in both Green Nail Colour and Green Flash LED Nail Colour (£9.50 inc VAT).

Light Elegance Whodunit? Colour Gel Collection £88.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com Techs – it’s time to turn detective, as this fun collection from Light Elegance provides all the clues needed to create autumnal nail looks for clients. The Colour Gel collection features six hues, including mysterious grey Dusting For Prints and pink fuchsia Predator in Pink. Offering opaque coverage, the shades are available individually for £18.95 + VAT and in P+ Gel Polish for £13.95 + VAT. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 23

p o o c s

SCRATCHSOCIAL

THE SCRATCH

Top (L-R): Helena Biggs, Jess Wilkie Bottom (L-R): Chloe Randall, Rebecca Hitchon, Callie Iley

The Scratch team offers an insight into its antics & unveils events & products from the nail & beauty realms

out Out and ab

In the

MAIL... Check out the nail & beauty goodies in Scratch’s postbag this month…

The team at BeautyPro sent products to meet our self-care needs; the +maskology Foot Peel Professional Foot Treatment with salicylic and glycolic acid for exfoliation, the hydrating +maskology Squalane Professional Sheet Mask with olive and passionfruit, and the +serumology Vitamin C Facial Serum with blueberry to brighten and hydrate the skin. The products are available via www.beautypro.com.

News & feature s writer, Rebecc a, headed to Th in Cardiff for Ho e Botanis t me Of Nail Art (H ONA)’s gel polish launch. Featuring system nude shades, Pu reBuild (builder bottle), base an in a d top coats and two lamps, tech try the system be s could fore enjoying an afternoon of food drink, live music , and networking – including with founders, Michae HONA l and Charlotte Henson. Read m about the new ore range on page 48.

COMING UP…

Team Scratch will be taking part in British Beauty Week 5-11 September by watching a number of its seminars, including How Nail Art Is Reflecting Culture Today hosted by Space Doctors.

We’ll also be at Olympia Beauty 2-3 October offering up a special offer on a Scratch magazine subscription and walking the show floor to STAND B02 uncover new products and treatments for nailists. See you there!

Judgement time Managing editor, Helena, will be making her Nailympia London floor judging debut at the competition on 2 and 3 October. She’ll also be judging entries to some of the online categories for the 2022 event, the winners of which will be revealed at Olympia Beauty on 3 October.

What we’re wearing... Helena’s local nail technician, Rebecca Ellis of @beautyby__beck, painted some pretty love hearts on feature nails for Helena’s fortnightly mani. She chose a cool lilac shade to suit the end of summer, which contrasted with pops of green.

Art editor, Jess, opted for this bold, eye-catching hue on a visit to nail stylist, Hazel Martin, aka @nailcreationsbyhazel.

24 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

hloe Callie and C e launch th ed celebrat s fourth e’ us ho wn of To s in ise salon prem on at gt in ns Ke South rty. pa g in en op its d te Th ey to as th e ev en t w ith ose prosecco, ch a vi es nail shad a ok to d an s iPad e. ac sp tour of the Callie headed to Clean Kitchen in Lond on to check out Adaptology’s range of Mighty Mini skinc are products. Brand founder, Laura Ruode, recommended a skincare routine using the range to suit Callie’s skin need s, with products from the Red Av ert and Break Free collections chosen. Callie also got to play scientist and created a bespoke facia l mist to use at ho me.

GORGEOUS Glossy Colour 15 Day Wear. Expert Performance. Seasonal & Trend Shades. Available at your wholesaler now.

#Gellux

www.salonsystem.com

@salonsystem

STAND G07

Autumn

looks good on you

Welcome to our World of Colour

Core Powders

Topcoats (Traditional & Hema Free)

Coloured Acrylics

Glittered Acrylics

glitterbels.com

NAIL&BEAUTYEVENTS

Trade Show

talk

As the countdown begins for popular trade event, Olympia Beauty, its director, IAN ARCHBOLD, shares the story behind it & what to expect next month… Since Olympia Beauty launched 18 years ago, it has become one of the biggest and most notable trade events in the beauty industry calendar. Packed with education offerings, incredible brands and prestigious competitions, the event is held at the iconic Olympia venue and returns to London on 2 and 3 October. Scratch chats to show director, Ian Archbold, who launched the show with business partner, Scott Derbyshire, to learn what to expect and why you need to attend…

What’s the story behind Olympia Beauty? In 2005, Scott Derbyshire (publisher and co-founder of Scratch magazine) and I launched Olympia Beauty under the name of ‘Nails, Beauty and Tanning’ and from there, it has grown to be one of the UK’s leading beauty events. Prior to the launch, I was working for another beauty company – yet the opportunity for Scott and I to join forces to create a new event for the industry was too good to pass up.

What makes the event unique? Olympia Beauty offers a very special visitor and exhibitor experience. The team creates an event where good business is done, and its location in the heart of London means that visitors can mix business with pleasure. So many iconic and interesting members of the industry come from all over the globe to visit Olympia Beauty and exhibit, which is testament to its reputation.

What can visitors expect from Olympia Beauty this year? Coming out of Covid-19 has been tough for all businesses, so the event will be an opportunity for the 28 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

industry to come together under one roof without restrictions. There are some amazing new features at the show, including brand discovery sessions for Salon & Spa Owners’ Club members. There are also breakout rooms; educational rooms at the show to support visitor learning, and ABT Insurance is hosting a two-day educational programme for existing and prospective

NAIL&BEAUTYEVENTS

“So many iconic and interesting members of the industry come from all over the globe to visit Olympia Beauty and exhibit, which is testament to its reputation.” members. In addition, event favourites such as Nailympia London and The National Massage Championship are returning,and there will be around 500 exhibiting brands.

How has the show developed and changed over the years? Since it launched, Olympia Beauty has kept a fairly similar format. It has always had a strong professional identity and is focused on benefitting the beauty pro. As the industry changes, we adapt what we offer to suit, whether that’s introducing different education offerings or competitions, or launching initiatives and presentations. Olympia Beauty is renowned globally for hosting great competitions and that is reflected in the quality of the winners.

Competitions Nailympia London, the world’s leading nail competition, is back at Olympia Beauty 2022 after a two-year hiatus due to Covid-19. In partnership with Scratch, the competition is spread over the two days at Olympia Beauty and the London arena will see eight live categories taking place on the show floor, followed by an awards ceremony on the Nail Stage on Monday 3 October. Register to compete at the event by 27 September via www.nailympia.com.

What does your day-to-day role involve? I work with all of Olympia Beauty’s exhibitors and contractors. Scott and I sell space to exhibitors wishing to showcase their offerings, and I liaise with contractors on aspects such as the show furnishings, breakout rooms, stand builds and electrics. I also work alongside Laura Tarling, who is OIympia Beauty’s head of marketing and pulls my crazy ideas together! Everyone involved in Olympia Beauty plays a huge role in each decision to ensure the event is the best it can be. I believe that this team effort is why the event is so successful, and one of the longest running events at Olympia, London. We are a very small team and have great relationships with each of our exhibitors. We have all worked on the event for a number of years and I think that our exhibitors – existing and new, find comfort in our personal approach. Scott Derbyshire, Laura Tarling and Ian Archbold celebrating Olympia Beauty’s 15-year anniversary.

Why is Olympia Beauty such an important event for the beauty industry?

Timing is key. Being hosted post-summer and pre-Christmas means that salon owners and pros can get everything required for the new season and take the time to assess what they want and need. It’s also pay-day weekend! October is a great time for brands to promote training opportunities before the busy Christmas period.

Why is hosting the show at Olympia, London so special? The venue is big, bright and iconic. It dates back to the 1800s and hosted one of the first ever exhibitions globally. Redevelopment in recent years means it is a world-class venue for visitors.

What are you most looking forward to this year? I love the build-up to the event. It is very stressful and there is always a curve ball or two, but every year offers a different challenge. It’s very satisfying to stand on the balcony at Olympia on the Saturday evening before the show opens and see all of the exhibition stands set up and ready for visitors. Every year, I want to deliver a fantastic event with thousands of visitors and happy exhibitors. We get tested by lots of different changes in the market and hopefully, Olympia Beauty reflects the ongoing development of a fantastic industry.

The National Massage Championship is the UK’s leading competition for massage. It welcomes qualified massage therapists and body workers to compete for a trophy in nine competition categories. Each afternoon at Olympia Beauty, there will be an awards presentation and a networking reception, and the finale will take place on Monday 3 October. Visit www.olympiabeauty.co.uk/thenmc to register by 19 September.

Nail brands exhibiting this year:

• INK London • Artistic Nail Design • Footlogix • Entity Nails • REM UK Ltd • Art Beauty • Nail Order • Magpie Beauty • Gelish • Morgan Taylor • Astonishing Nails • The GelBottle Inc • Kiara Sky

• The Gel Box • I.Nails Express • Brillbird • Willow Academy • Pro Gel • Unicorn’s Den • Missu Beauty • Slowianka Nails • Callux Pro • Pro Impressions • Scratch magazine • Glitterbels • Lecenté

Interested in visiting or exhibiting? Scan here to register for more information www.olympiabeauty.co.uk olympiabeauty @olympiabeautyuk

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 29

DIARYDATES

CALENDAR

GIRL

Colour clients beautiful this September & commemorate the month’s notable dates with treats for hands & feet

SEPTEMBER

Nailscopes Those born in September fall under the Virgo or Libra star signs. This month brings a drive for creativity, exciting new ideas and heightened self esteem.

Acne Positivity Day

This design by @_shaunails celebrates self-love through nail art.

Acne Positivity Day encourages self-love and is a reminder to accept the skin you’re in. Acne is one of the most common skincare concerns, so the day serves to help you embrace your face and celebrate your skin.

10 11

In need of birthday nail inspo? @nailsbymarnii serves up this stunning Virgo nail design!

Video Games Day

Encourage clients with a passion for gaming to opt for a themed nail design for Video Games Day before they settle down for a solo gaming session or get together with friends to play games.

OPI Nail Lacquer in Achievement Unlocked £5.65 + VAT/RRP £14.30 www.trade.opiuk.com

30 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

This cute teddy bear nail design comes courtesy of @fairydustnailcompany.

International Day of Peace

The theme for this year’s International Day of Peace is ‘End racism. Build peace.’ The day encourages everyone to come together to work towards a world without racial discrimination. Use this day to increase awareness both on and offline. These nails by @emilys.gelnails feature an apt, colourful peace sign on each nail

World Heart Day

Outline Stickers £2 + VAT www.homeofnailart.com

22 23 24 25 26 27 28

Teddy Bear Day

The GelBottle Inc BIAB in Teddy £16.99 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

17 18 19 20

Save this date to learn more about cardiovascular diseases such as heart disease and stroke prevention, and raise awareness by adding hearts to nails. Home Of Nail Art Heart

It’s time to get sentimental and dig your childhood toys out of the closet for Teddy Bear Day! Consider sharing the love by donating forgotten soft toys to children’s charities to mark the occasion.

13 14 15 16 Show a love for gaming with the OPI x XBOX collaborative collection! This pretty purple shade, Achievement Unlocked, is perfect for any gamer.

STAND G18

FOLLOW FOLLOW SUIT SUIT

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gsgroupuk.com gsgroupuk.com Georgie GeorgieSmedley SmedleyGroup Group Phone: Phone:01708 01708465900 465900 www.gsgroupuk.com www.gsgroupuk.com||Email: Email:info@gsgroupuk.com info@gsgroupuk.com LONDON, LONDON,HERTS HERTS&&ESSEX ESSEX 0800 0800014 0148313 8313 IRELAND IRELAND 00353 00353114295122 4295122 SOUTH SOUTHWEST WESTUK UK 01300 01300348645 348645

IT’S IT’SALL ALLABOUT ABOUT THE THETWILL TWILL

WOOL WOOLYOU YOU LOVE LOVEME? ME?

STAND G20

HM-14564

Style is always in season with the NEW Plaid Reputation Collection from Gelish® and Morgan Taylor®! Plaid Reputation is a retro revival that reimagines the fashionable colors and patterns from eras past.

TWEED ME!

MODEL IS WEARING: FOLLOW SUIT & TWEED ME

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Chair – Marian Newman BEM

Deputy chair & director of information – Sue Davies

Director of education – Donna Clayton

Director of finance & legal affairs – Denise Spragg

THE FORCE

OF THE FEDS Chair of the FNP, MARIAN NEWMAN, shares the organisation’s latest news & the professionals showing support

THE FEDERATION ADVISORS & MEMBERS’ CHAPTER

he Federation of Nail Professionals launched last year and since then, the team has been working on a variety of projects, including hosting two competitions in collaboration with Professional Beauty and developing the FNP website.

We gave the FNP the strapline of ‘the voice of the industry’ and this is what we must be. We need to listen and hear what the industry wants and needs, so have introduced two important groups to assist.

THE FEDERATION ADVISORS

One of the key roles of a membership organisation is to provide correct, current information and benefits that make joining as a member worthwhile. There is a vast array of information that we, as nail professionals, need to run our businesses efficiently and safely. This requires the help of experts.

• • • •

Metta Francis – Multi award-winner & mobile nail expert Helena Grzesk – COO, British Beauty Council Sonia Haria – Beauty director, The Telegraph Sammy MacDonald – Multi award-winner, multiple salon owner, educator & FNP Scottish advocate • Sam Marshall – Skin and waxing guru & co-founder of Be Trans Aware • Jim McConnell – Expert polymer chemist, R&D • Jennie Nippard – Co-founder of the FNP, award-winner & educator • Jacqui & Sean O’Sullivan – FE Education, WorldSkills & competition experts • Ryan & Hollie Power – Co-directors, Salonology • Belinda Price – Education & capability manager at OPI, FNP patron • John Ribchester – Founder, John Ribchester Consultancy and Global Travel Mask, PPE expert & FNP benefactor • Louise Searles – Education and standards expert, City & Guilds • Liza Smith – Salon owner, award-winner, educator & business coach • Clare Woodcock – FNP marketing & PR volunteer, nail professional & events expert

“We gave the FNP the strapline of ‘the voice of the industry’ and this is what we must be. The advisory board may seem large but We need to listen it offers a wealth of relevant skills and and hear what expertise. We are honoured that these wonderful professionals are prepared to the industry wants help and guide us through the challenging situations the sector faces. and needs.”

We are very pleased to announce our Federation Advisors who will be joining us to advise the board and our members: • Claire Aggarwal – COO, RE:NEW Beauty, FNP patron • Helena Biggs – Managing editor, Scratch magazine • Lesley Blair – CEO, BABTAC & CIBTAC • Sam Blake – Personal safety expert • Keri Blue – Short hair specialist & co-founder of Be Trans Aware • Victoria Brownlie – Chief policy officer, British Beauty Council • Hazel Dixon – International award winner, brand developer, owner & educator • Kim Ford – International business advisor & examiner • Alex Fox – Global director of Nailympia Competitions, editor-at-large & co-founder of Scratch magazine 34 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Some will be writing advice and information for the website. Others will be joining small discussion groups on specific topics to help decide the policies and approach the FNP needs to adopt. Over time, I am sure we will invite some more specifically skilled professionals and we also have experts from other fields (e.g. medical) willing to join, temporarily, to assist with several topics.

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

FA SPOTLIGHT: SAM BLAKE

THE MEMBERS’ CHAPTER

EXPERT AREAS: Health, safety & welfare

As part of our desire to be as transparent in our operations as possible, we have introduced a Members’ Chapter. Gabriela Baselgia is our Members’ Champion and will act as the liaison between the FNP board and its members.

Sam is the founder of Safer Salon Geek, which provides training and consultancy for the salon industry in the areas of health, safety, welfare and wellbeing. Sam is looking forward to championing the need for strong educational foundations to create sustainable businesses.

FA SPOTLIGHT: RICHARD LIPSITZ EXPERT AREAS: Finance, systems & projects

Following a successful career in banking, Richard joined the family business at RE:NEW Beauty, bringing with him a diverse range of expertise. He wants to enhance the reputation of the industry and believes this is possible through high quality training and education.

FA SPOTLIGHT: HELENA BIGGS EXPERT AREAS: Media & publishing

As managing editor of Scratch magazine, Helena builds relationships, nurtures talent, and works each month to deliver content that serves both readers and industry brands. A published author and advocate of the nail industry, Helena always promotes the industry with positivity. She will be supporting the FNP’s activities through coverage and promotional initiatives.

FA SPOTLIGHT: CLARE WOODCOCK EXPERT AREAS: Mobile business development, PR & events management

Prior to developing her love for nails and beauty, Clare worked in the music and entertainment industry for over 20 years, managing and directing PR campaigns for recording artists, brands and festivals. Clare is founder of The Nail Club and scooped the Scratch Star Award 2022 for Mobile Nailist of the Year. She has a passion for the nail sector and is looking forward to helping change the perception of the industry.

www.the-fnp.com

/TheFNPUK

“The Members’ Chapter is a small group of passionate nail professionals who want to help make a difference to the industry by sharing their suggestions, worries and concerns in a safe place,” Gabriela comments. “As Members’ Champion, I’m here to ensure that the input of members reaches the right people so that collectively, we can create the industry we want.” The Chapter will be a closed group that can discuss the following: • What members want from the FNP. • What we are doing right. • What we’re doing wrong or not doing at all. • What we should be doing. By having a closed group, members will hopefully feel comfortable to raise important issues. Gabriela, an experienced and wise nail pro, can feed back to the board with the anonymous suggestions. We will publish the members of the Chapter so others can give them feedback and suggestions, and the group can always invite any board member or advisor to a meeting if they need any clarification on points. We are looking forward to motoring ahead with the support of our members and advisors.

“The advisory board may seem large but it offers a wealth of relevant skills and expertise. We are honoured that these wonderful professionals are prepared to help and guide us through the challenging situations the sector faces.”

NEWS IN BRIEF

The FNP will be hosting the nail competitions at Professional Beauty North in October at Manchester Central. For more information, visit the FNP’s Facebook page.

@the_fnp_

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 35

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Made in france with love

Keep on top of client demands with nail shades & styles to note for the seasons ahead BY CALLIE ILEY

TOP NAIL TRENDS FOR

autumn/winter It’s time to tuck away the pretty pastel hues and summer brights to make way for autumn/winter colour palettes across your chosen nail systems. This season, the nail world embraces earthy tones and natureinspired hues, as well as bold berry shades. Nail art also sees a style shift, so expect to see twists on animal print, deep coloured swirls, a return of the French and so much more.

Here are the top 10 styles and shades set to be in demand at the nail desk…

French twists

The classic pink & white French reigned supreme throughout spring and summer, and will stay a staple style during autumn/winter, too. Pay homage to the traditional look with a white tip or opt for a colourful twist with a seasonal shade of green, brown or purple. Add some sparkle as the winter months approach to embrace the excitement of the party season.

This elongated style by @zuzanna_duszenko features a double smile line in a seasonal plum tone.

38 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

@maisieleahnails proves that the classic French never goes out of style.

@polished_yogi adds a pretty swirl to these autumnal-toned tips.

Neutral hues decorate these French tips by @rachelsbeauty_.

Rich, chocolate brown decorates the tips of these enhancements by @nails_by_rochelle.

These deep green French tips by @trulymonae feature white dots for a chic and sophisticated style.

Image courtesy of Artistic Nail Design, showcasing the Cover Me Head To Toe collection, available via www.louellabelle.co.uk

NAILTRENDS

Back to nature

Nail brands have turned to nature to inspire their latest colour collections, with olive greens, navy blues and rich browns making their mark. “Nature is imbued with colour, and that colour has the power to lift your mood and offer balance,” remarks OPI co-founder & brand ambassador, Suzi Weiss-Fischmann. “The energy of the earth is like a balm for our mind and body.” Jill Bartoshevich, OPI’s global director of colour collections, adds: “The idea of using colour to ground yourself rests on the intuitive assumption that connecting to the energy of the earth through these elements can soothe, empower or motivate you when needed.” Whether you use the shades for block colour designs, or as part of a nail art look, the various tones of earthy colour that have launched this season will ensure a shade to suit any skin tone or client desire.

Nails shown feature HD Pro Colour It! in Moss £12.49 + VAT. Available via www.hazeldixonnails.com

“Think deep greens, reds and blues for this season, but incorporate pops of contrasting colours such as the lights blues, yellows and pinks which were popular for spring/summer,” suggests Karen Louise, session manicurist & Gellux ambassador. Artistic Colour Gloss in Against The Norm £12.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

@thenailbarwithterri showcases the effectiveness of deep blue hues on an enhanced nail shape. Nude nails get a seasonal twist with brown and amber floral additions, courtesy of @beautybylucylou.

Halo Gel Polish in Saturn £5.49 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer in Wool You Love Me £4.95 + VAT/ RRP £9.95 www.louellabelle.co.uk

Mii Colour Confidence Nail Polish in Night Frost £6.75 + VAT/RRP £13.50 www.gerrardinternational.com OPI GelColor in Brown To Earth £18.70 + VAT www.trade.opiuk.com The client of @_shaunails_ chooses a variety of earthy tones for her nail design.

Glitterbels Acrylic Powder in Hot Chocolate £8.95 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

“Last year we witnessed the emergence of the green nail trend, and it is very much still prominent this year,” comments The GelBottle Inc ambassador, Bryony Howell.

Instagram.com/tombachik

The GelBottle Inc in Tortie £14.50 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

@slayedby.j.lanae combines seasonal tones with a French style for an on-trend nail look.

Celeb Spot!

Singer and actress, Selena Gomez, selected an olive shade for her nails, courtesy of US based manicurist, Tom Bachik.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 39

NAILTRENDS

Animal prints

Almond shapes

Step aside, coffin! We’re shining a spotlight on almond nails, which have over 2.7 million tags on Instagram. This stylish and sophisticated shape makes a statement, whether it’s as a shorter salon style or an elongated look.

@that_nailstudio creates a glazed donut design in a neutral tone on almond-shaped nails.

@amberjhnails decorates these almond-shaped nails with earthy brown swirls.

“This year has seen the almond-shaped nail grow hugely in popularity, with celebrities like Hailey Bieber as the catalyst for this,” Bryony Howell observes. “A straight edged nail clipper matched with the The GelBottle Inc Soft 220/240-grit file helps blend the perfect almond tip.”

The GelBottle Inc Soft 220/240-grit File £1.40 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

Salon System Gellux Gel Polish in Untamed £11.95 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

“Animal print will be a popular choice this autumn,” predicts Georgie Smedley Group ambassador, Sophie Donaldson of Sophie’s Cosy Corner. Leopard and tortie looks have had a big fan base for years, and their traditional shades are apt for the coming season. Consider animal print across the entire nail, or combine two seasonal trends by featuring prints as an alternative French tip.

@gelsbyhay mixes up full and partial tortie coverage for a super-chic look.

The GelBottle Inc Blooming Gel £16.50 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

Create tortie designs with ease using products designed to help colours bloom.

@nailsbyriannaa gives French tips a wild makeover, decorating them with a mix of animal prints.

Gelish Blooming Gel £16.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com / www.salon-services.com Artistic Colour Bloom £17.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

Glitterbels Clear Almond Tips £14.99 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

INK London Almond Fit Tips £20 + VAT www.inknails.com

Olive tones and mixed animal print patterns combine in this striking nail style by @__abigails_nails__.

Entity Colour Couture in Going To The Piazza £10.95 + VAT www.thecreativebeautygroup.co.uk

IZ Beauty Of London Gel & Go in Jolie £13.50 + VAT www.izabellehammon.com

Hints of gold complement the touches of tortie on this almond-shaped manicure by @nonadoesnails.

40 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

This tortie style by @pressed.bydemi is a great transitional look.

Chrome calling

Hailey Bieber’s glazed donut nails catapulted chrome nail finishes into the spotlight this summer, and the look will transition into autumn/winter. “We’re definitely going to be seeing more chromes than we’ve seen for some time – thank you Hailey Bieber,” says The GelBottle Inc ambassador, Megan Kelly. Escalate the look with colourful chromes across all nails to add an eye-catching shine that nods to this season’s colour trends. Go bold with a full-on reflective look to brighten up dark winter nights, or tone it down for a more natural style with sheer coverage. Chrome is perfect for party season and ideal for striking ombré styles.

White tips complete this pink chrome nail look by @begeliciousnails, as featured on almond nails.

NAILTRENDS

Swirls

Swirl designs are super-popular on Instagram and as we transition into a new season, the much-loved look will continue to dominate. Change up the colour to suit autumn/winter looks and opt for warm browns and burnt oranges, or pair deep hues with white for nails that make a statement. Expect to see less full-on designs and more dainty swirls, as the focus moves away from bright, contrasting colours to sophisticated and darker-toned looks.

Instagram.com/haileybieber

Celeb Spot!

Model, Hailey Bieber, showcases the popular glazed donut nail trend, as applied by @nailsbyzola. Mix seasonal shades for the perfect all-weather mani! @nailsbymonka combines chrome finish nails with a nude overlay and party-friendly sparkle.

Artistic Chrome Pen in Holographic Gold £6.95 + VAT & Artistic Chrome Gloss £17.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

The delicate shimmer of this nail design by @rebeccanailartist will catch the early autumn light.

Using shades of chocolate brown and white, @vwnails_ adds soft swirls to these enhancements.

The alternative French, burnt orange and swirl trends combine in this multi-faceted look by @touchofglam_ni.

Creating swirl nail art requires a steady hand and a small detail brush. “My favourite tool for nail art is the Detail Brush from The GelBottle Inc,” states Imarni Ashman, The GelBottle Inc brand ambassador. “I use this for most of my designs. You can also use the bottom of the brush as a dotting tool.”

Izabelle Hammon Mirror Shine Chrome Pigment £2.80 + VAT www.izabellehammon.com

These stiletto-shaped nails by @minea.nails feature autumn-friendly tones, including plenty of sparkle and a rosy-orange chrome finish.

Magpie Glitter Dust in Tiara £4.50 + VAT www.magpiebeauty.co.uk

Brown, berry and neutral tones all feature in this almond-shaped style by @nailsbygabby.au.

Lecenté Purple Chrome Powder £6.95 + VAT www.lecente.com www.sweetsquared.com www.ellisons.co.uk The GelBottle Inc Liquid Metallic Studio Gel £13 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

“Chrome nails were seen at NYFW at the Dion Lee and Bronx Banco AW22 catwalk shows,” Bella Pilla, marketing assistant at Izabelle Hammon, notes. Gelish Chrome Stix in Pink Opal £6.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com / www.salon-services.com

Scratch Stars Gel Polish Stylist of the Year, Jiak Hing aka @jark.nails, pairs a winter jumper with autumnal brown and orange shades.

The GelBottle Inc Detail Brush £9 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

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NAILTRENDS

Very berry

Mii Colour Confidence Nail Polish in Darker Days £6.75 + VAT/RRP £13.50 www.gerrardinternational.com

Deep plum tones, punchy purples and muted mauves will be popular this autumn/winter. These versatile hues provide a sophisticated finish that works for day and night and a wide colour spectrum – whether your client wishes to cling on to the late summer brights or delve deep into the depths of dark purple hues.

Is your client struggling to decide on a single shade from your latest colour collection? Suggest a few hues – as the popular ‘Skittles mani’ from summer transitions into autumn, with differing shades across nails. Slightly more daring than using one block colour, yet more understated than detailed nail artistry, tonal nails are a great way to be more adventurous with shades while maintaining a classic look. Use a different shade on each nail or blend two or three hues per nail in an ombré style.

These striking coffin nails by @taryns.nails are finished with Light Elegance P+ Color Gel Polish in Dirty Little Secret £13.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Neutral hues and subtle berry shades are showcased across nails in this style by @ 1913_beauty_salon_huddersfield.

Halo Gel Polish in Venus £5.49 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk

Glitterbels Acrylic Powder in Berry Blitz £8.95 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

Tones & gradients

Magpie Beauty Matte Nail Glitter in Lavender £3.95 + VAT www.magpiebeauty.co.uk

Earthy shades and burnt orange look stunning against a deep green jacket in this nail creation by @colourftw.

Manucurist Green Flash in Aubergine £9.50 inc VAT www.uk.manucurist.com @jadeandpolished shares a fun tonal take on French nails, combining the nail style with two seasonal shades per nail.

Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer in Follow Suit £4.95 + VAT/RRP £9.95 www.louellabelle.co.uk CND SHELLAC™ in Orchid Canopy £13.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

OPI Infinite Shine in Medi-Take It All In £7 + VAT/RRP £15.95 www.trade.opiuk.com

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@manicuresbydaniella encompasses the earthy, neutral and almond-shaped trends to create this elegant nail style.

Cosy up with a warm berry tone and subtle swirl details, as shown by @toebeannails.

Scarlett Senter Nail Glitter £3.50 inc VAT www.scarlettsenter.co.uk

Turn to page 106 to see more berry-inspired nail designs! Turn to page 106 to see more berryinspired nail designs!

Neutral tones and a burnt orange hue decorate this nail set by @melanated.mani.

Minimal

INK London iLac in i156 Retort White £7.50 + VAT www.inknails.com

Neutral nails – whether in full or in part – will prove ever-popular this autumn and winter. Neutral-toned canvases offer a simple and sophisticated look, complementing the popular clean aesthetic and more natural-looking make-up styles. Add understated designs over a neutral base or consider a full cover neutral hue to go with any outfit. Thin swirls, delicate outlines, cuticle cuffs and hints of bling will take over this season, subtly adding sparkle and fun to nude nails, while toning down and scaling back popular trends from earlier in the year.

NAILTRENDS

Burnt orange

Neon orange was a popular shade throughout summer, and as the seasons change, we’re reminded of bonfires and autumn leaves with the emergence of burnt orange manis and pedis. Use swirls or glitter to add intrigue, or stick with block colours of burnt orange to appreciate the shade in all of its autumnal glory.

IZ Beauty of London Stud iT Small White Pearl Studs £1.20 + VAT www.izabellehammon.com

Dazzle with diamanté and nude-coloured details, as shown in this nail style by @awrcynails.

Artistic Perfect Dip in Neutral On Repeat £7.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

Why not adorn your minimalist nail styles with some glitz and glamour? Consider adding rhinestones or pearls to your nail designs. “The Markarian show at NYFW featured overlays of pearls for AW22,” Bella Pilla recalls. Jessica Phenom in Angel Wing £6.75 + VAT/RRP £13.50 www.gerrardinternational.com

Light Elegance Buttercream in A Jog With My Dog £15.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com This stunning nail design features swirls and earthy tones to capture a number of autumn nail trends. Featured is OPI’s GelColor in Rust & Relaxation £18.70 + VAT www.trade.opiuk.com

Scarlett Senter Nail Glitter £3.50 inc VAT www.scarlettsenter.co.uk

Entity Colour Couture in See The Sights £10.95 + VAT www.thecreativebeautygroup.co.uk

This apt autumnal nail colour is the HD Pro Nails Colour It! Soak Off Gel Colour in Candle Light, £12.49 + VAT www.hazeldixonnails.com

Salon System Gellux in Wild Mink £11.95 + VAT. Available via wholesalers nationwide. Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer in Tweed Me £4.95 + VAT/RRP £9.95 www.louellabelle.co.uk

NSI Attraction Acrylic Powder in Rose Blush £11.95 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk

Lecenté Dabbing Foil in Splatter £3.99 + VAT www.lecente.com www.sweetsquared.com www.ellisons.co.uk @elegant_beauty_by_angelina adds swirls and sparkles to this seasonal nail style.

INK London iLac in i-14 Metallic Mars £7.50 + VAT www.inknails.com

CND SHELLAC™ in Willow Talk £13.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

The swirl nail trend is showcased in white over a nude base, courtesy of @gel.bymegan.

@nailsbypaulin mixes deep brown feature nails with a neutral tone for a chic style for short nails.

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Steps

SUSTAINABILITY The BBCo’s Sustainable Beauty Coalition committee members share industry news & guidance to support eco efforts

ABOUT KIRSTY MAWHINNEY

Kirsty is a beauty, skincare and wellbeing evangelist, and face of curated skincare and beauty. Having spent the last 25 years developing educational and marketing communication targeted to the skincare and beauty sector, yoga practitioner and teacher, Kirsty, believes in sharing a beautiful way of being. Kirsty consults through her business, Skin Insight, which provides clients with the latest trends analysis to support strategy and marketing communication.

She has worked her way through the alphabet of beauty brands, from Aveda to REN Clean Skincare. She provides training, contributes to white papers and product development, and forges sales and brand ambassador relationships with key opinion leaders in the skincare market. Kirsty is passionate about sustainability, having completed the Circular Economy & Sustainable Strategies course in May 2021 through Cambridge University’s Judge Business School. She is on the steering committee of Sustainable Beauty Coalition and is director at Cosmetic Cluster UK, where she leads the sustainability pillar.

E: kirsty@skininsight.co.uk @kirstymaws & @skin_insight

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Decoding beauty: What are beauty brands really saying?

he beauty industry is renowned for using buzzwords, but often, when you ask a beauty representative what these words really mean, it’s difficult to get a consensus from one beauty brand to another.

Jayn Sterland, chair of the Sustainable Beauty Coalition, highlights the issue with the terms ‘natural’ and ‘organic’. Jayn explains that there is, “no harmonised criteria to define the properties of natural and organic cosmetics at an international level, so it is difficult for producers and shoppers to evaluate whether ‘natural’ or ‘organic’ product claims can be considered misleading.”

Conscious beauty

all. Unless a business can prove that, it risks falling short of its legal obligations. To bring this to life, let’s consider purchasing a beauty product packaged within a bamboo container labelled ‘natural’ in green font. The outer bamboo shell, which on its own is compostable and biodegradable, creates the impression that the entire product is better for the environment than other materials. However, the inner container that is glued to the outer shell may be made from recyclable plastic. Without clear messaging on the packaging that explains this product contains mixed materials, you are liable to assume that the packaging is environmentally friendly.

Many of us are moving towards a more conscious way of living. Conscious consumerism is about making positive, responsible and ethical decisions. It encourages us to consider the impact of what we buy. Many consumers are asking the same from their beauty products.

The overall presentation of the product therefore risks being misleading. In addition, not only do you have no way of knowing before purchasing that the product contains mixed materials, but the way that the components have been combined may make the product very difficult to dispose of, other than in general waste.

‘Sustainable beauty’, ‘eco-friendly’ and many other marketing terms now appear meaningless. The Green Claims Code, published in September 2021, sets out a series of statements that businesses need to adhere to when structuring marketing claims.

The claim is less likely to mislead if the plastic inner easily separates from the bamboo liner, and the separate components, and how they can be disposed of, are clearly marked on the packaging.

A claim or word should provide an accurate, honest indication of what the brand is promising. Brands in the past may have directly or inadvertently created an overall impression that the product has a positive environmental impact, or none at

The clean beauty movement saw consumers pay closer attention to ingredient lists, choosing ‘clean’ products. However, the term is ambiguous regarding what or who determines whether an element is clean. Surely we should be more interested in our beauty and skincare products being safe?

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST Jen Novakovich writes in her blog, The Ecowell: “The reality is, it’s illegal to sell unsafe products. While regulations worldwide differ, this remains a constant in the developed world. Checks and balances ensure your products will be safe. For example, ingredients must be rigorously safety tested.”

ingredients, is not new, but the demand for it seems stronger. In the vegan economy, no industry is moving faster than vegan beauty. The Vegan Society Report, published in October 2021, highlighted that cosmetics and toiletries is the Vegan Trademark’s largest category, with 27,056 products verified as of March 2022.

“Conscious consumerism is about making positive, responsible and ethical decisions. Novakovich explains It encourages us that before launching a finished product The industry’s size is not to consider the into the market, surprising, given that impact of what between 2014 and 2019, “manufacturers also must take steps to substantiate was a 175% increase in we buy.” veganthere safety – through things like cosmetic launches globally. stability, challenge, and skin patch testing.” Confusion around cosmetic product labelling and ingredient checking remains a deep concern, despite increased awareness of ingredients. In 2021, a YouGov survey commissioned by Holland & Barrett found that 53% of UK adults were not confident in identifying a skincare product containing animal ingredients. In a recent survey by The Vegan Society, 55.5% said they would like to see more vegan-verified products across all cosmetic and toiletry products. The Sustainable Beauty Coalition (SBC) launched the Planet Positive Beauty Guide (PPBG) at COP26 in October 2021. Contributors to PPBG included beauty industry environmental activists and brands who see the value in providing information and clarity from the cosmetics sector, and share goals and commitments to protect our planet.

Going green is hard: How to avoid greenwashing Greenwashing is a deception tactic – intentional or accidental – that is employed by companies and can cause customers to believe their products, services or mission are more environmentally impactful than is accurate. Tabitha James Kraan, an advisory committee member of the SBC, believes that the consumer is in control. “We all want to do the right thing,” she says. “PPBG is a digital guide to support you in being a greener consumer and not falling for ‘natural’ marketing gimmicks such as greenwashing, so that you can make greener choices.”

In the UK, it is estimated that of the new vegan items launched in 2020, over 80% were within the beauty category.

Forty-one countries have already banned animal testing for cosmetics, and the goal is to outlaw this practice in all major beauty markets worldwide by the end of 2023. Consumers should be able to pick up a cosmetic product anywhere in the world and be confident that it is safe to use and free from any new animal testing.

Has this article ignited an environmental activist in you? Join the British Beauty Council, SBC and many others by scanning here to sign the Stand By The Bees! Protect Our Pollinators petition.

The global vegan cosmetics industry is predicted to be worth a staggering $21.4billion by 2027, according to MarketGlass.

What does it mean to have a vegan product? Historically, cosmetics have been tested on animals for safety and regulatory purposes. However, cosmetic companies have been striving for several decades to avoid animal testing, with many testing labs coming up with alternatives where possible and permissible by the law. As a result of the increase in demand for vegan cosmetics, many companies are making vegan and cruelty-free claims about their new products, but how can consumers be reassured that these claims are true? There are often misunderstandings and misconceptions about what ‘vegan’ means, mainly because the term is not legally recognised or regulated. As a result, thirdparty accreditation is becoming increasingly important to add credibility to products. The Vegan Trademark, the world’s first vegan product labelling scheme, established in 1990, is an international vegan standard and the foundation of consumer expectations regarding trustworthy and authentic vegan products. It sets out a definition of veganism and a definition of the word ‘animal,’ covering all ground and avoiding ambiguity.

Vegan beauty takeover

Cruelty-free beauty: Non-animal approaches to testing safety

January 2022 saw a record high pledge to Veganuary, with over 629,000 people signing up from 228 countries. Back in 2019, there were 168,500 signups for Veganary. Vegan beauty, which refers to when products are void of animal

Cruelty-free beauty is on its way to becoming mainstream globally, primarily driven by the #BeCrueltyFree campaign led by Human Society International, the Humane Society of the United States, and in coordination with corporate members of the AFSA collaboration.

Keep up-to-date with sustainable news in the industry and the work of the Sustainable Beauty Coalition by subscribing to SBC News at www.britishbeautycouncil.com/sustainable-beauty-coalition @sustainablebeautycoalition @_sbcofficial

PURPOSE OF THE SBC The Sustainable Beauty Coalition exists to: • Actively encourage and strengthen one collective industry voice to accelerate collaboration, knowledge and bolder collective efforts. • Create stronger frameworks and policies for the beauty sector in the UK with sustainability and green credentials as a central focus. • Proactively collaborate with other bodies to coordinate and accelerate the beauty industry’s response to sustainability. • Develop and implement a clear strategy, roadmap and initiatives to accelerate our climate-positive impact. • Champion the Green Economy and Green Recovery utilising existing and potential networks. • Champion the work of the industry and secure government support for further green initiatives. • Work with the government towards its ‘net zero by 2050’ commitment. • Elevate our work on an international level utilising global contacts, brands and events such as COP26. • Monitor the progress of the British Beauty Council roadmap against the SBC’s framework and keep these goals and the overall execution of initiatives under review.

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PRODUCTSPOTLIGHT

Home Sweet

HONA REBECCA HITCHON gets the inside scoop on Home Of Nail Art’s popular new product launch, created in collaboration with a leading industry chemist

oved by a loyal tech fanbase for its art gels, chromes, foils, glitters, tools, decals and stickers, Welsh brand Home Of Nail Art, aka HONA, has made big impact since its inception in 2020. And now, the launch on the lips of many is its soak-off gel system.

FACT FILE

The first talk Michael and Charlotte had with chemist, Jim McConnell, about the gel system was in October 2020!

The formula is co-created by renowned US chemist, Jim McConnell, whose name you may recognise as co-founder of Light Elegance. HONA’s trial kits of the new range sold out within four minutes, base coats within a day, top coats within 48 hours and its builder gels had to be reordered immediately after launch to meet demand. The innovators behind HONA are husband and wife duo, Michael Henson and Charlotte Henson, who is a nail technician. “We started HONA during a time when The current gel polish selection Swatches of the PureBuild hues conversations about safety and nail allergies were being highlighted,” they explain. “Our colours were chosen with different skin tones in mind, to Michael & Charlotte Henson “We learned that nail techs are not ensure that the launch has something for everyone,” say only more informed than ever, but they’re Michael and Charlotte. “Here is an exclusive for Scratch readers: also trying to become more educated, as we’ve already got two upcoming gel polish collections being clients expect them to know exactly what they’re using. co-created by Jim McConnell.” “We wanted to be a part of the conversation, but we needed to do our research. We stumbled upon Jim McConnell’s ‘Chemist Corner’ YouTube series and having learned so much from it, we messaged him to say thank you. We started emailing back and forth and found a shared passion for elevating industry standards, so he agreed to help us formulate our gel system. “We communicate where, when and by who each batch of formula is made, meaning techs can fact-check our claims about being hypoallergenic, vegan and cruelty-free.” The HONA gel system currently consists of: • 8 PureBuilds (builder gels in a bottle) • 10 nude gel polishes • Complete Base (base coat) • High Shine Top Coat • Matte Top Coat • Nail lamps (HONA Cube Cordless and SUN3 Nail Lamp)

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The HONA Foundation “Many would assume that the gel system is HONA’s dream, but it is actually The HONA Foundation,” reveal Michael and Charlotte. “This is an initiative through which we will kickstart a disadvantaged or struggling person’s nail career. HONA will provide their equipment and education, as well as ongoing business support. Once they have their own space, we will partner them with a mentor, who will be an experienced tech. “The nail industry offers flexibility and independence, uplifts you when you are down, and provides a sense of purpose. These qualities made us realise that HONA can be the bridge between those who need help and the wider nail sector.” HONA products are available via www.homeofnailart.com /thehomeofnailart @_homeofnailart @homeofnailart

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INDUSTRYEVENT

y t r a P

Scratch shares snaps from the biggest party in the UK nail industry calendar & hears from the winners of the 2022 Scratch Stars Awards…

t was the hottest night of the year – not just because a UK heatwave was raging, but because nail industry talent turned up to stun at the Scratch Stars Party 2022.

Over 300 nail pros, teams, trailblazers and their peers descended into London’s Steel Yard venue for a night lit with entertainment and magic, as the UK nail sector was celebrated and winners of the Scratch Stars Awards 2022 announced. Guests dressed in party attire arrived to a prosecco reception, while music pumped through speakers and a magician dazzled with tricks. After indulging in canapés and getting adorned with gems at the glitter station, they took to their seats for the awards presentation. BBC Radio One legend, Scott Mills, and Scratch’s managing editor, Helena Biggs, led proceedings, awarding Hall Of Fame entrants before introducing the first nine winners of the 18 awards categories. Happy tears flowed amongst beads of sweat in a sizzling venue that was alight with celebration, anticipation and respect. An interval saw a break to the bar and a chance for attendees to network, before our presenting duo returned to the stage for the second half of the event. Cheers and screams of joy ensued as salons, teams and social media starlets were awarded for their success over the last 12 months. Keeping the party spirit high, Tinchy Stryder was next to take to the stage, performing a 30-minute set of his hit songs. Dancing and chatter then continued into the early hours in celebration of the fabulous UK nail sector. It was a night to remember!

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“We are so thrilled to have won Nail Salon of the Year! The Scratch Stars Awards is the most high profile event in the UK nail industry and it is such an honour to receive this title. I am so proud of my fantastic team.” Juanita Huber-Millet, founder of Townhouse, Knightsbridge – Nail Salon of the Year sponsored by The GelBottle Inc

INDUSTRYEVENT

“This award means everything to me! During the first lockdown, I wrote a list of goals I had for my life and work, and one of those goals was to win a Scratch Star. I’ve worked hard on my business and to perfect my skills, so to hear my name read out as winner made me so happy, and proved that my hard work has been worth it. “Winning this award means so much because it is judged by such esteemed talent and leading legends in the nail industry. I am so excited to see how the next year unfolds and how I can improve on what I have already achieved so I can defend my title in 2023.” Clare Woodcock, Mobile Nailist of the Year sponsored by LCN UK

“The Scratch Stars Awards is a must for any nail tech, educator or professional. It is the only awards dedicated to nail professionals and to be a finalist means that you have been recognised for hard work, skill, passion and dedication. “Winning the Services to the Nail Industry award this year feels wonderful. To be recognised for my contributions to our amazing industry means the world to me. “The Scratch Stars Party is an unmissable event. It is always so much fun, great for networking and wonderful to see industry friends in one place. Watching the talented techs go up on stage to collect their awards is a fantastic feeling, especially knowing just how hard they worked to be there and that they all thoroughly deserve their trophy. I would encourage every nail pro to enter. You have nothing to lose and everything to gain!” Hazel Dixon, winner of the Services to the Nail Industry award, sponsored by Sweet Squared

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“I entered the Scratch Stars Awards 2022 because I have been a finalist multiple times, and know how great this competition is. There is nothing quite like it; the judging process is thorough and the high volume of judges means that it is a fair competition. “The hour time frame for the practical competition not only makes it a huge challenge (which I love!) but sets everyone on an even playing field in a live arena. I love this competition, and I really enjoyed the party!” Kayley Cairns, Mixed Media Artist of the Year sponsored by Kirsty Meakin & Nail Stylist of the Year sponsored by Glitterbels

“Winning Social Media Star of the Year is one of my greatest achievements. The hard work that my team and I have put into our social media platforms has been well worth it, as to be recognised in the Scratch Stars Awards is such an honour. “Our aim is to provide content that is engaging and educational. We pride ourselves on being non-biased; showing pros how they can use products to their full potential, as well as problem solve. I enjoy showcasing innovative products from the Kirsty Meakin nail range, too. I love our followers and the ongoing support they give to the Kirsty Meakin social channels. I aim to continue to inspire nail techs all over the world and encourage them to achieve their goals. “Thank you to Scratch and the judges that took the time and effort to be involved in this fantastic competition.”

“I entered the Scratch Stars Awards after listening to the Clawgasmic Nail Tech Talks podcast featuring Scratch’s Helena Biggs. Both Chan, the host, and Helena were encouring techs to just go for it – so I did! What did I have to lose? It turns out I had a lot to gain. “I sought to boost my confidence, as I struggle with self-celebrating at times. I have been hooked on Scratch magazine since I started my career and really wanted the Scratch Stars Awards to be the first competition I entered. “The entry process was in-depth and forced me to evaluate my business and achievements. The idea of a mystery shopper brought back memories from my retail career! “I got to meet so many people at the Scratch Stars Party; I was starstruck when I met Kirsty Meakin and I got to spend time with Chan and Jouvan, founders of Clawgasmic, who are such positive people within the nail industry. “Before my name was announced, I realised how much I wanted to win the award. The in-pour of support and congratulations has been incredible.”

Kirsty Meakin, Social Media Star of the Year sponsored by Glossify

Danny Manchip of Beau’s Beauty Box, Home Nail Salon of the Year sponsored by Pure Nails – Halo Gel Polish

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INDUSTRYEVENT

“Thank you to all at Scratch magazine and congratulations to all the winners. I am absolutely delighted to have been awarded the prestigious title of Gel Polish Stylist of the Year 2022! “One of my favourite quotes is ‘better yourself every day’ and this has become my motto. It is also the reason why I entered the competition, as I hoped it would help boost my confidence and show me what I can achieve in this industry. “I thoroughly enjoyed the excitement and thrill of experiencing the live competition. This has opened up new opportunities for me, and I’ve also had the chance to meet lots of amazing people and role models in the nail sector. I am truly grateful to have won this award. Now, I’m fully fuelled and will keep on painting!” Jiak Hing, Gel Polish Stylist of the Year sponsored by Salon System Gellux

“We are still on cloud nine from winning the Shooting Star award. The Scratch Stars Party is such a fun night and it was so incredible to meet other nail techs and industry figures that we have spoken to online for so long. “It is our aim to help as many techs as we possibly can in this industry, and we really want to continue to help and support techs all over the world. “It is great to know that our mission and goal is resonating with people and that they are benefitting from our network. Thank you Scratch – see you next year!” Chan Vermont, co-founder of Clawgasmic, winner of the Shooting Star Award presented by Scratch magazine

“I have always been in awe of Scratch magazine as a flagship publication for our industry and have aspired to achieve recognition in the Scratch Stars Awards. “The past two years have shown me that I am capable of achieving things that I have not previously thought possible and my confidence has grown. I now know that I can achieve under immense pressure and the awards offer an amazing opportunity to network. I have really enjoyed being able to put names to faces! “Winning the L&P Tech of the Year award has made me realise that it doesn’t matter what you go through in life, you can achieve anything you want if you work hard enough. This is something I wanted to show my daughter and other techs that have faced difficulties, and this title is the highlight of what has been a very successful two years.” Jade Barber, L&P Tech of the Year sponsored by Katie Barnes Tool Range

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INDUSTRYEVENT

“I entered the Educator of the Year category as I wanted to showcase what I do, and inspire others to set higher standards for education. “I enjoyed how I could be viewed teaching VTCT L3 Nail Technology in my natural environment, and I feel very proud to be crowned a Scratch Star winner. I hope that winning the award will open more avenues for my academy to further improve education in our industry.” Michelle Brookes, Educator of the Year sponsored by Sweet Squared

“I had considered entering the Scratch Stars Awards for over three years, but never had the courage. I remember telling my son that he should believe in himself and would never know what he could achieve until he tried. He then achieved great things at school, so I decided to heed my own advice. “The entire experience has been a challenge and a learning opportunity and I feel so privileged to have met such encouraging, creative and friendly people. To be in the same room with such talent and so much positivity at the practical judging day was amazing. All finalists were so supportive of one another, and it was great to celebrate with them at the party. “Competing has given me focus and drive and helped me to grow as a person and nail tech. The win has helped to boost confidence; both in myself and in other people. It has pushed me beyond anything I possibly thought I was capable of and has fuelled my passion for the industry.” Danielle Brindley, Polish & Paint Artist of the Year sponsored by Brillbird UK

“I entered the Glitterbels Educators into the Scratch Stars Awards so that their hard work and dedication could be recognised by the amazing panel of expert judges and the wider industry. “It was wonderful to celebrate their success at the Scratch Stars Party and it’s a night I’ll never forget. Being announced as a finalist was amazing but winning was next level! The team has been on a high ever since and we received so many messages after our win. Hundreds of students celebrated with us and offered their congratulations.”

“I love nail techs; their tenacity, their resilience, their creativity, their spirit and their kindness. Over the past couple of years, I have met so many brilliant people in this sector and been so impressed by the scale of the industry. I was honoured to be awarded the Nail Sector Visionary Award by Marian Newman on behalf of the FNP. “When we started the British Beauty CounciI, I had a simple vision of an industry with no misogyny, no bias, lucrative jobs and prospects; a professional industry with highly skilled technicians that would be valued and recognised by government and business leaders. I would like to share this amazing honour with my dear friend, Marian Newman BEM.”

Charli Jepson on behalf of Glitterbels Educators, Nail Team of the Year 2022 sponsored by Salon Services

Millie Kendall OBE, winner of the Nail Sector Visionary Award presented by the FNP

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INDUSTRYEVENT

“I have entered my business into the Scratch Stars Awards several times, and am delighted that it has this year made it into the Hall Of Fame. I really enjoy the application process, as I get to reflect on everything that has been achieved in the business throughout the year. This process also inspires me and helps me think of ideas, which I then implement into my business post-submission. “When the Scratch Stars Party comes around, the anticipation in the salon builds to a fever pitch! There’s no feeling quite like when the category sponsor announces you as the winner. It’s a surreal moment and I make sure I take time to look around at my team and delight in the absolute euphoria and excitement on their faces as it sinks in that they’ve won.”

“The Scratch Stars Awards and the application process encourages me to sit down and reflect on the past 12 months, good or bad! Having gone through the pandemic, and then a pregnancy, I was actually really proud of myself for the things I had achieved over the last year. It is so easy to get caught up in the day-to-day juggling of a business, family life and other pressures, so it was great to remember the small and big wins. “The practical judging day is nerve-wracking, but being surrounded by industry friends and legends helped fuel the fire in me. To just hang out with my fellow finalists and see everyone doing what they do best at the LCBT was so inspiring. “It was incredible to be announced as Natural Nail Specialist of the Year for the second year in a row and I had a great time celebrating and partying with everyone.” Metta Francis, Natural Nail Specialist of the Year sponsored by The Nail Lab UK

Marie Yexley, owner of Beauty at the Bay, Nail & Beauty Salon of the Year sponsored by OPI UK

“I entered the Scratch Stars Awards because I wanted to push myself out of my comfort zone. I’ve always loved competing and the awards holds such high regard in the nail industry. I have been on cloud nine since my wins and am already planning my entries for next year! It was such a fun process and great to see so many like-minded and passionate nail techs at the judging day. What an incredible experience! I am so proud to have been a part of it.” Catriona Leith, Gel Tech of the Year sponsored by Bio Sculpture Gel & Evo and One Stroke Artist of the Year sponsored by HD Pro Nails

Scan here to view the full gallery of photos from the Scratch Stars Party 2022

www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/scratchstars atchmagazine co u With With thanks thanks to to the the sponsors sponsors of of the the 2022 2022 event: event:

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 55

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COMPANYSPOTLIGHT

THE

WAY

When Lucy James’ repetitive strain injury left her with little choice but to learn to use an e-file or retire from tekking, she developed her knowledge of e-files to save her nail career. After a lot of research and learning, this knowledge turned into a passion and as a result, Lucy became an educator to impart what she had learned and ignite confidence in fellow pros. From this, Willow Academy was born. “I wanted to teach e-file use and pass on my love for the tool that transformed my business and relieved my arm,” explains Lucy. Initially, she launched an e-file exclusively for her students, but when one student showed it to a fellow nail technician, who shared it on Instagram, Lucy was quickly bombarded with enquiries. This spurred her on to launch her own product range and website.

Are you looking for the right e-file & bits to support your nail services? CHLOE RANDALL chats to Willow Academy about its products, education offerings & confidenceboosting ethos…

Lucy started researching materials, finishings and coatings, and contacted a number of suppliers for samples. “The knowledge that I had gained over the previous two years was then compiled into a 174-page Willow Academy e-file course manual,” she reveals.

THE ETHOS

Willow Academy’s focus is so much more than offering quality e-files and bits. Lucy and her team strive to inform and educate nail techs about how to use e-files correctly and maximise their use in a nail service. “I have found that a number of nail techs are overwhelmed by the number of pieces on the market. They wonder what each is for, what speed should be used, what bit is most suited to them and more. But we are here to offer those answers,” explains Lucy. “With every bit purchased, pros receive a ‘Confidence Card’. It includes the name, shape, level of grit, uses, cleaning instructions, coating, lifespan, direction of use, flute formation and a date box to fill in at purchase, to track when the bit needs to be replaced. With every piece, our aim is to provide education, knowledge and in time, confidence, because if the instructions are unknown, how can you reach your potential?”

58 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

“We believe that an e-file machine is an integral part of your nail career and health. Using just any bit or machine isn’t enough.”

The Willow product offering includes: • E-file machines in various patterns • Gel polish (no rubber base) bit bundle • Gel polish (with rubber base) bit bundle • BIAB bit bundle • Full Cover Tip bit bundle • Hard gel/acrygel bit bundle • Acrylic bit bundle • Cuticle kit • Left-handed kit • E-file replacement chargers • Salon essentials

COMPANYSPOTLIGHT EDUCATION

To help radiate its ethos, Willow Academy offers three face-to-face e-file education courses, which cater to different levels of experience. The company also offers other courses for various nail systems.

1. Original e-file course

The original e-file course is aimed at both beginners to e-file and those wishing to refresh their skills. The course consists of theory and practical elements, covering everything you need to know about the e-file you are using, as well as natural nail prep and cuticle work.

Theory: • The different types of e-file bits. • The various materials e-file bits are made from, their benefits and properties. • The different styles of e-file bits, their uses, shapes and grits/grades. • E-file bit recommended speeds. • E-file health & safety. • How to clean your e-file bits. • How to prep/season your e-file bits. • E-file machines – including how they work, what to look out for, their buttons/dials and how to use your specific machine. • E-file torque explained and why it is important. • E-file hand pieces, the differences in models and how to maintain them.

Lucy’s product pick

“My favourite product is The Willow E-file Pro,” reveals Lucy. “It ticks all of the boxes and being a tech with an RSI, I knew what I wanted from an e-file machine and this is it. It is lightweight with a pen-like hand piece that is so quiet, which puts the client at ease.”

Practical: • • • • • • •

How to remove gel polish from the natural nail using multiple bits. How to do an infill with the aid of e-file bits. How to remove product lifting. How to reduce the length of a nail using your e-file. How to prep the natural nail using sanding bands safely. How to prep/refine old product prior to fresh application (infill). Introduction to cuticle prep (electric manicure) using the five-bit cuticle kit. • How to refine product after product application. • How to de-bulk product. • How to do a full removal of product using an e-file.

KEY STATS:

• Over 82 e-file pieces available • Launched in 2019 • The E-file Pro can work at 30,000 RPM • The team tried 25 machine samples before finding the perfect one • Hundreds of samples are ordered before deciding which bits to stock

2. Level 2 E-Mani course aka ‘Perfect Prep’

This is aimed at qualified e-file techs who wish to upgrade their prep routine. TThis course introduces the stages of prep using 14 pieces from the cuticle bit range. “We are advocates for ‘The Willow Way’, which means working your way,” reveals Lucy. “During the course, if you wish to use the e-file solely for prep, we’ve got you covered. If you wish to use a combination of e-file prep and traditional methods, then we are here to support you and adapt our training to suit. It is important to us that you find a method that suits you and we adapt our teaching to each student to complement this.”

3. Level 2 E-Pedi Course

This course is aimed at nail technicians who are already qualified and experienced in using an e-file. The E-Pedi Course concentrates on the reduction of calluses and cracks/fissures in a controlled environment. The method is a gentle yet effective approach to exfoliation, which requires no soaking, blades, peels or vigorous scrubbing. It is a bespoke treatment with a plan of action specific to each client, which is decided at the consultation.

WHICH BIT?

Willow Academy hosts two quizzes on its website called the ‘Perfect Cuticles’ quiz and the ‘Product Removal’ quiz. “Many nail technicians are unsure about which bits to use for different services with their e-file, or they want to try something new but don’t know the right choice for the system they use,” explains Lucy. “Willow Academy has a vast catalogue of bits and our online quizzes are multiplechoice questionnaires that will help you decide which bit would work for you. The following questions are asked: 1. What product are you using? 2. What would you like to do with this product? For example, removal, infills etc 3. Are you left-handed or right-handed? “A list will then be generated to advise you on every bit that is suitable to you, your system and what you are trying to create. The ‘Perfect Cuticles’ quiz aids you in finding the correct and suitable cuticle piece for specific skin types.”

For more information and to take Willow Academy’s quizzes, visit www.willowacademy.com /Willow-Academy-Efile-Bit-File-Brand @willowacademy_lj To watch Scratch’s chat with founder, Lucy James, and managing director, Tori Brownlow, scan here SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 59

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

JUST ADD

2022 WINNER

ABOUT ANNABEL

Annabel Maginnis studied fashion and make-up artistry in London before moving into the nail world in 2015. Her notable creative flair in the field saw her Instagram following skyrocket. Fuelled by momentum, she opened her own salon, Nails By Annabel, in Newcastle, and in 2017, supported by husband, Elliott, the duo launched Glitterbels – a professional range of nail products. In 2021, the business was awarded the Scratch Stars Shooting Star Award based on its growth, popularity and provision of education and products for pros. The Glitterbels education team scooped the Scratch Stars Nail Team of the Year award 2022.

r e t t gli Help your business sparkle & nail designs shine with advice & inspo from ANNABEL MAGINNIS,, co-founder of Glitterbels MAGINNIS

What makes a great nail team?

ollowing the Glitterbels Educators’ Nail Team of the Year win at the Scratch Stars Awards in July, I want to focus on why ‘team work makes the dream work’.

Many successful people have a wonderful team supporting them; whether those team members are family, friends, clients or employees. A great team is key to a successful project, but what makes a team so great?

“The world would be very boring if we all had the same skills and knowledge, so being part of a team allows such knowledge to be shared and different perspectives to be brought to the planning table.” www.glitterbels.com /Nailsbyannabelm & /GlitterbelsbyAnnabel @nails_by_annabel_m & @glitterbels /Nailsbyannabelm & /Glitterbels 60 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

I firmly believe that you shouldn’t expect others to do anything that you would not do yourself. This industry involves more than perfecting nails; it requires cleaning, marketing, listening to clients, managing, sorting finances and so much more. While it’s great to delegate or share a workload, you need to be mindful of how each task impacts on a team member or client experience, and be able to step into your teammate’s role if required. A great leader is always a team player and offers respect to members of their team, regardless of the stage they are at in their career. Every professional has been an amateur, so understanding that each member of the team is on their own journey is really important. Having team members that support one another helps growth, and each will bring

unique qualities and skills. The world would be very boring if we all had the same skills and knowledge, so being part of a team allows such knowledge to be shared and different perspectives to be brought to the planning table. If team members feel that they have had input into a project, they will be more likely to love it, nurture it and feel respected, which breeds success. Inspire and support each member of your team to keep morale high and ensure that the workload is shared, and you will see positive results. Importantly, have fun. All work and no play can cause burnout and stress, so take your team out for a fun-filled activity every so often to support its social side and boost spirits.

Annabel x

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GIRLPOWER Who – Oksana Zavora What – Nail artist & session tech Where – Formerly Kyiv, Ukraine. Now Berlin. Why – A creative stylist with a growing Instagram following & passion for unique nail artistry

ksana Ukrainian nail tech, O al effects n so er p e th es ar sh , ra o Zav h Russia it w ar w ’s y tr n u co r e h of name for & how she’s making a d herself in the nail worl

H T I W P U OPENING

A N A S K O Describe your journey into nails...

At the age of eight or nine, I became obsessed with looking at photos of manicures and reading about different techniques. When I discovered that I could watch the creative nail process on YouTube, I became even more enamoured with the craft. When I was old enough, I contacted a talented nail artist in Kyiv and enquired about a masterclass. She taught me a lot about sterilisation processes and demonstrated her technique for me to practice on a model’s hand. After that, I continued seeking information from industry figures and practiced nail styling. I loved doing nails for myself, friends and family, but it was just a hobby initially. However, when I went to university, I sought a job to earn some extra money and considered nail styling. I gained a lot of experience and worked as a homebased tech for a few years, then moved to my studio in the centre of Kyiv. I was consistent with my Instagram posts and always aimed to create unique work, which got me noticed. I met many people from the fashion and beauty industries, simply because they were my clients, so session shoots came into my life – which totally changed my career vision.

How has life changed since the war? For the first month and a half, I couldn’t do anything because of stress; I didn’t 62 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

understand what to do, where to be, or whether to settle down somewhere. But one day, I realised that I had to go back to work and continue living somehow, because I was just waiting for the war to end. That’s when I decided to move to Berlin.

I would never wish for anyone to experience war, because it is like a wound that will never heal. I’ve grown up, re-evaluated my values, and now set priorities in a different way. I’ve realised that strength lies in truth, morality, justice and unity. I really hope that going back home will be possible in the future as I miss my previous life and my family and friends. I’m still renting my nail studio in Kyiv because it is so special to me.

How would you describe the Ukrainian nail industry? The nail industry is very big in Ukraine. Nail clients expect the best quality, and techs are able to provide it. The demand for beauty services is enormous; people take care of their appearance, therefore neglecting quality is not an option because the competition in the market is so high.

What do you love about your job? I’m obsessed with nails, as the process of creating and finishing a look brings me satisfaction. I love the artistic side of my role, but I’m also glad I can make people feel happy through my work. Currently,

I’m establishing my client base in Berlin, but I’m looking forward to more session projects, because session styling gives me a chance to step out of my comfort zone and push boundaries.

How would you describe your personality and style? This depends on my mood and my style is constantly changing, but I am definitely inspired by different decades. I love the rave aesthetic of the 1970s and the pink, glittery, glam looks seen in the early 2000s. I don’t like restrictions and my style is no exception.

How do you wear your own nails? I’m currently committed to wearing the colours of the Ukrainian flag: blue and yellow, until the war is over. While I’m grateful that I have the opportunity to continue doing what I love and to feel safe in another country, I’ve always lived in Ukraine and I loved my life in Kyiv. No matter where I am and what I do, until the

GIRLPOWER

war ends, the thought of my home will not leave me. To me, that is what is captured in these colours.

What are your essential products? Products that I can’t live without are CND™’s CuticleAway cuticle remover, which I use during appointments and on myself between manicures. For cuticle oil, I opt for Mavala’s formula, and I also rely on CeraVe’s Moisturising Cream to keep skin hydrated and smooth. Mavala Cuticle Oil £POA/ RRP £15.10. Available from stockists nationwide. CND™ CuticleAway £5.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

What principles do you live by? I’m still learning how to do this, but I try to listen to myself, because when you live without listening to your feelings, thoughts and ideas, you can get lost and lose concentration. Justice is another principle, which determines the direction in which I move, what decisions I make and how I build relationships. I also know

that diligent and systematic work always pays off and every experience is precious if you learn to make the correct conclusions from it. Since the war, I have started to gain another principle. I have learned how important it is to support one another and not to stand aside when someone is in trouble. In today’s world, this is crucial because we all live on the same planet.

What is your greatest achievement to date? The biggest project in my career so far has been creating the nail looks for Spanish singer, Rosalia’s SAOKO music video, which was filmed in Kyiv. I was so lucky to be involved and it was a great experience! However, my most significant achievement is following my heart no matter what, and this has led me to where I am now: doing what I love and calling it my job. I never thought that my hobby would be my career.

What are your hopes for the future? I prefer to dream big, so I hope to create nail looks for the next season of Euphoria and to one day have a line of hand and nailcare products. I also hope to continue spreading beauty through my salon and session work, and to share my knowledge with others as more people become interested in nails. @chummy.nails SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 63

BUSINESSMATTERS

ways to reduce business costs As utility prices soar, nail tech & accountant, VICKI BODDICE, serves up ways to review & cut costs There is much chatter about the effect of the cost of living crisis on households. However, what is mentioned less, is the effect it has on small business owners. In the world of business, cashflow has to be your priority, but your focus should be on long term finances, rather than getting cash in the bank as quickly as possible. With that in mind, it is worth taking time to consider ways to keep costs as low as possible.

ABOUT VICKI

Vicki Boddice has been in the accounting industry for 18 years and set up Boddice Accounting in 2021. As a qualified nail technician, Vicki became aware of the difficulties many in the beauty industry have in finding affordable, expert advice. The aim of Boddice Accounting is to ensure that quality accountancy help, support and advice is available to anyone who needs it, regardless of the size of their business.

Check your suppliers

Most nail technicians have preferred brands that they use in their business, which can only be bought from certain distributors. For other items, such as PPE, the most cost-efficient suppliers can change weekly. Although it’s easy to stick to your usual order, do a quick comparison and see if you can save by buying in larger quantities. With costs rising as quickly as they are,buying in bulk could prove more cost-effective.

Check your utility suppliers

Many business owners don’t realise that, unfortunately, the energy cap does not apply to commercial customers. If you work from a salon or unit, review the terms of your supply contract and consider using a utilities broker to find the best possible deal.

Opt for a fixed rate if you can and protect yourself from the huge impending increases. If you work from home, if possible, work out exactly how much energy you use for your business and ensure that you claim this as an expense in your returns to HMRC.

Check your marketing options

One of the most important expenses many businesses have is marketing. Consider what you are spending your marketing budget on, and make sure you are getting results. In general, paid for and boosted social media posts don’t gain a huge number of clients, but the costs can add up. Speak to your new clients, find out how they found you, and focus on those marketing opportunities. Ditch anything that is not producing results.

Check your bank statements

As businesses grow and develop, software, business tools and marketing opportunities become helpful. However, it is very easy to keep paying for a service you no longer use. Go through all your direct debits and recurring payments and cancel any that you no longer use. Make sure you also contact the company and cancel too, in order to ensure you don’t get chased for any unpaid amounts.

Check your payment providers & bank accounts

Accepting card payments is essential for any business, but the transaction costs can add up. Some payment options are far more expensive than others, so regularly review what you use.

www.boddiceaccounting.co.uk /booksallbalanced @boddice_accounting

64 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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COMPANYSPOTLIGHT

A GREEN

revolution

Scratch shines a spotlight on French nail brand, Manucurist, which has a green philosophy & focus on mood-boosting products CHLOE RANDALL REPORTS

From France with love, Manucurist is a Parisian brand which focuses on sustainable nailcare and treatments, with natural bio-sourced ingredients at each product’s core. The brand was co-founded in 1996 by Gaëlle Lebrat-Personnaz and her mother, a pioneer in France in the development of nail-focused salons. Their aim has always been to bring a smile to peoples’ faces through their brand, and as Manucurist’s popularity grew, its focus turned to product creation, distribution and then retail in 2016. Gaëlle took over the running of the brand in this same year, following a successful career in fashion and luxury brands. She had a desire to make Manucurist accessible to both the general public and professionals, so everyone can practice responsible beauty without compromising on quality and durability. “Our mission is to offer professional quality nail polishes and treatments that make people happy and are above all, as clean as possible for health and the environment,” Gaëlle explains. Manucurist is a partner of more than 400 institutes and 70 spas across the globe and is ‘committed to a more transparent and responsible cosmetic world’. “It also meets the legitimate demand of consumers who demand higher standards and effective formulas that respect our health and the environment,” adds Gaëlle. “The brand’s ethos is to be an expert in colour and nailcare, while campaigning for uncompromising beauty.”

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The products include: • Nail polish • LED gel polish (Green Flash) • Top & base coats • Nail polish corrector pen • Gel polish remover & wraps • Lamps • Nailcare products • Handcare products • Petite Manucurist nail polish for children • Emery boards • Nail art tools • Accessories

COMPANYSPOTLIGHT

Q&A

Gaëlle Lebrat-Personnaz answers quick-fire questions about the brand…

GAËLLE’S PRODUCT PICKS

“The Green Flash range was most challenging to develop, taking two years and a lot of energy,” comments Gaëlle. “As a colour lover, being able to have long-lasting colour that dries instantly and is easy to remove is so important, as I can enjoy changing my nail colour as often as I want. I also adore ‘Huile Verte’, which is a cuticle oil that sits on my nightstand and is applied every night before I go to sleep.”

“Our mission is to offer professional quality nail polishes and treatments that make people happy and are above all, as clean as possible for health and the environment.”

What do you love about owning your own brand? My dream has always been to build a cosmetics line. My family history led me to develop one in the nail sector and I am very proud of it. It also brings me great satisfaction to have built a team that is growing and flourishing along with the company. The strong growth of Manucurist creates a dynamic entrepreneurial energy at all levels, which brings me a lot of joy. Why should salons and nail professionals invest in Manucurist? As a salon owner, you may want to propose some options for your clients in terms of application, longevity, removal and aesthetic. The Green Flash system is fast and easy to use, and offers a shiny, quality nail finish that lasts up to 10 days. What clients does the Manucurist brand target? Everyone! Our clientele is mainly female but we are working to democratise nail polish for men, and nailcare is for everyone. We even have a range called Petite Manucurist forchildren; water-based products that can be removed through hand washing. What are your future plans? We are developing the brand and expanding our network worldwide, while constantly working on new product launches and trying to improve our impact on the environment. It’s a continuous process.

FOCUS ON… Packaging “Manucurist’s product packaging is designed to have minimal impactt on the environment,” shares Gaëlle. “Glass and cardboard are used to package our products and we are always seeking innovative new materials for even greener products.” The box from each delivery can be recycled or used as dry material in a compost heap, and the packaging chips are made from 100% corn starch, which are water soluble so can be washed in the sink or used within compost. “Our packaging has been designed with experts to offer the best application experience and results,” says Gaëlle. “With my background in visual merchandising, I had a clear vision of what I wanted in terms of aesthetic, which is that our products should look great in a bathroom or on a nightstand, with a simple yet immediately recognisable design.”

pro.manucurist.com @manucurist

/manucurist Manucurist UK

NEW COLLECTION!

Manucurist has unveiled its autumn nail colour collection, Flea Market. Available in Green Flash and Green formulas, the shades are Aubergine, a deep purple hue; Dune, a soft sandy beige; and Poppy Seed, a deep blue.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 67

Getting down to s s e n i s u b SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Take note as the NATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FEDERATION serves up support & advice for beauty business owners

Back to learning for salon employees About the NHBF

The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) is the UK’s largest trade body for businesses in the hair, beauty and barbering industries. The National Hair Federation launched its sister trade association for the beauty industry (NBF) in 2018, and the body relaunched as the NHBF in 2019. With Richard Lambert as the chief executive, the association provides specialist business support, advice and backup to hair and beauty businesses. Honing over 75 years’ experience, the not-forprofit organisation aims to be a reliable source of information for you and your business.

he holiday period is over, and students across the UK will resume their studies and lifelong learning. For salon employees, this may signal the start of new training or time to develop current skills. Every employer knows that the most valuable asset in their business is the workforce. Successful businesses understand and know how important it is to invest in talent. Employee training and development have numerous advantages for both employers and employees and additionally, we owe it to our staff members to support their growth. Continuing Professional Development (CPD) refers to the skills, knowledge and experience that staff gain through learning and development activities beyond their initial training. There are several ways employees can maintain their CPD to keep up-to-date with the latest techniques, industry regulations and technology, or to enhance their customer service or selling skills.

A training programme to support salon staff’s CPD will help: • Ensure employees feel valued. • Reduce employee turnover. • Create a pool of employees ready for more senior roles. • Give employees a broader understanding of the business. • Enhance the reputation of the employer and attract a wider pool of quality candidates.

• Tackle workplace issues, for example if the team struggles with a particular skill or task. • Keep staff up-to-date with the latest skills, techniques, regulations, products and technology. When a business is offering training to its employees, it needs to make sure that the training course offers good value for money and will help to boost the business, and also that any additional services the employee will offer are covered by insurance.

Time to shine & take your business to the next level The NHBF understands that running a salon can seem challenging because so many things need to be in place before you can focus on growing your client base. The NHBF is by your side to ensure you and your business are protected, and your reputation is untarnished with its new professional standards, quick and simple-to-follow guidelines, online lessons and invaluable resources. In our online Skills Zone, visitors can access the new NHBF School with Pivot Point Lab, webinars on the latest business topics, in-depth guidelines, toolkits, and factsheets; all free to NHBF members. For less than 80p a day, the NHBF will work with you to support your business on training, HR, legal, industry regulations and all the latest business laws. Find out more via www.nhbf.co.uk/skills-zone. www.nhbf.co.uk @nhbfsocial

/nhbfsocial @nhbfsocial

“Every employer knows that the most valuable asset in their business is the workforce. Successful businesses understand and know how important it is to invest in talent.” 68 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

STAND G18

NAILCOMPETITIONS

compete! READY, SET,

Are you considering entering a nail competition or keen to seek advice? CHLOE RANDALL explores the journey of a competitor, from signing up to post-event …

aking the step from everyday nail work to entering an industry competition can often seem daunting. Designed to stretch your skills and give you the opportunity to gain feedback from experts, competitions range from trade show tests to photographic challenges and more, open to techs of all skill levels. From feeling shaky during a practical competition to forgetting a key part of your kit or being disappointed if things don’t go to plan on the day, the life of a nail tech competitor can be tumultuous. Our experts have revealed points to note throughout the various stages of the competing experience. “Competing will stretch and fine-tune nail skills,” reveals Alex Fox, director of Nailympia Competitions. “It’s a way to extend and explore creativity. It’s where a nail tech can shed salon life, create without boundaries and show the world their artistic potential and ability.” Alex Fox

Signing up

Judging at Nailympia Orlando

Checking out the various categories a practical competition, such as Nailympia, has to offer can often be overwhelming and it can be difficult to digest all the rules, regulations and requirements. Sue Davies, who is a nail sector veteran, competition organiser, judge and deputy chair of the Federation of Nail Professionals, advises: “The first thing to do is decide what categories suit your skills. Next, check the rules for those categories and register to compete. Most competitions will provide the scoresheets Sue Davies in advance so you can understand what the judges will be awarding points for, so use them and note what you need to do to achieve marks in your practice sessions.”

“Competing will stretch and fine-tune nail skills. It’s a way to extend and explore creativity.” Alex Fox 70 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Danielle Brindley competing in the Scratch Stars Awards 2022 Polish & Paint Artist of the Year category

NAILCOMPETITIONS

Pre-competition After making the decision to register for a competition, create a timetable for practice time and preparation. “I advise taking a competition class with an educator who has competed before,” suggests Fereida Lydiate, awardwinning HD Pro Nails educator. “Not only will Fereida Lydiate they be able to show you what is expected from a technical or artistic perspective, but they can advise on table setup, uniform requirements, model knowledge and timings.”

Agnes Dullo

“It’s very important to find a model in good time and practice on their nails as much as you can,” adds Agnes Dullo, INK London educator. “Knowing your model’s hand and nails will save you a lot of time when form fitting and measuring. Teach your model what mistakes to look out for in your work and ask them to monitor the time through the competition.”

Prior to the Scratch Stars Awards practical competition day, Danielle Brindley – who scooped the Polish & Paint Artist of the Year title 2022 – did lots of research on the brief. “I tried to think outside of the box by researching obscure and alternative concepts and created a Pinterest board to collect all of these ideas,” she reveals. “I created digital designs, designs in my sketch Danielle Brindley book, and then on the nails themselves, as the images can become distorted with the curve of the nails. “I tried various colour combinations and played with different levels of detail to see which image looked most striking, and what was achievable within the time frame. “I looked at the work of previous winners, but purposefully didn’t research artists in my category due to my inferiority complex. I knew if I saw the talent I was up against, I would spend more time worrying about how good they are, instead of preparing myself for the competition.”

TOP TIP

“If you have any questions, ask the organiser in advance of the competition and get clarification on any pointers before you start practicing,” says Hazel Dixon, multi award-winning nail stylist, Hazel Dixon educator and founder of HD Pro Nails. “Make sure you receive your answers via email and not over the phone, print these out and take with you to the competition in case there is any misunderstanding on the day.”

TOP TIP

Write down everything you have used at the end of your practice sessions and use this list when you are packing for the competition. Also ensure you check your products before you set off for the competition to ensure you have enough, they are in working order and lids are screwed on tightly.

Sue Davies judging

CHOOSING YOUR MODEL

“Pick a model with ‘good’ nail beds,” states Sue Davies. “I’ve known competitors that have stopped people in supermarkets and asked them to model for them because they’ve spotted their amazing fingers and nails in the aisles! “Ideal models have a long nail bed and good natural c-curve. Most winning competitors will practice on their model for weeks – sometimes months – in advance. “Models need to be aware that they will be expected to be seated for a long time during the competition, the judging stage and when waiting for the awards, as it’s always good to have your model with you for photos if you place.” Models should be equipped with water to stay hydrated, and wear layers to deal with varying temperatures in competition arenas.

Competit

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cklist üYour chosen co m p le te üAll tools system üA lamp (if nee üExtension leaded)

üBin with liner d (as these aren ’t always availab üHeat mats for le) yo u r m o d el üTowels üA cardigan foüBowl

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NAILCOMPETITIONS

During the competition When the time comes to compete, the pressure and nerves tend to kick in, which is completely normal for both new and seasoned pros. Experts share tips on how to manage nerves during a practical competition… “I find being organised and well-practiced helps me. The more I have practiced, the more I am familiar with the motions,” reveals Kayley Cairns, two-times Scratch Stars Awards 2022 winner.

Kayley Cairns

“On the morning of the competition, I’ll have some Kalms tablets or a herbal tea to help me feel settled.

“During the competition, there are times when I shake so much I need to stop, give myself a moment to take a deep breath and then carry on. In the rush, it may feel nonsensical to stop, but I find this helps me more than trying to work through when I’m shaking. “Be prepared for the unexpected and deal with it as you would in the salon. Consider things beforehand that may potentially go wrong (or that may have happened during your practice sessions) and make sure you are prepared with a solution just in case.” “Ensure you have spares if something breaks or spills,” adds Fereida Lydiate. “Know the rules of the competition inside out, so if you find yourself running out of time, you will know what you can skip that will lose you the least points. When practicing before a competition, I time myself to finish at least five minutes earlier than the end of the competition. This allows me some spare time if I need it.”

Kayley Cairns at the Scratch Stars Awards 2022 judging day

Post-competition Every competition is a learning experience. “Collect your scoresheet at the end or ask for it post-event, as this is vital in order for you to understand where you placed, where you did well and where you can improve next time,” comments Sue Davies. “Judges are usually available for critique so keeping your model with you will help, as giving feedback from memory when they’ve seen high numbers of nails is not going to be helpful. The judges are experts in their field so their feedback through the scoresheets or from critique post-awards can be extremely helpful in guiding you towards where to improve next time and different techniques you can try.”

Why enter?

KEY CONSIDERATIONS

Agnes Dullo suggests points to consider during a competition: • Time: When the competition ends, you are no longer allowed to touch your model, so be sure to finish on time and adhere to this rule to avoid possible disqualification. • Dust: The last step of the competition should be to clean your model’s hand. It must be dust and oil free. Pay extra attention to the underside of the nails. • Desk: Make sure it is clean and organised. Your layout must work for you, not against you. Place every item where it’s easy to reach, with bigger and taller items further away and smaller items closer. • Organisation: Place everything in the same spot every time you practice and compete and clean as you go along, putting away items you no longer need. Keep your brushes, files and tools in a desk organiser or containers.

“Competing teaches nail techs to look at nails in a different way,” comments Fereida. “It also helps improve a tech’s speed as they learn to create nails as perfectly as they can within a specified timeframe. Over time, techs will learn to work more efficiently with their products, reducing appointment times and therefore enabling more clients per day.” “My career has evolved so much thanks to competitions,” adds Hazel Dixon. “As a result of making my name on the competition circuit, particularly in extreme art and Fantasy Nails, I have done so many amazing things in the industry that I’m very proud of and thankful for. “For example, I was invited to be part of a research and development team for new products for a global company, I’ve been invited to write books and I became a distributor for a global gel brand, where I learned so much about products and chemistry. All of this and more evolved from competing and meeting new people, which opened up a world of opportunities.”

COMING UP… NAILYMPIA LONDON 2022 Scratch chats to Alex Fox, director of Nailympia Competitions, about the return of this year’s renowned competition in London following a two-year hiatus…

beautiful space where creativity is apparent across the floor and the energy is high and happy. It’s adrenaline-pumping and powerful. It’s a great nail space.”

What are you most looking forward to about Nailympia London 2022? “I am so excited to be back in the arena at Olympia Beauty. This competition has not been hosted in London since 2019 and I have missed it so much; the buzz, the tension, the relief, the competitors, the judges, the adrenaline rush and the awards frenzy. I am excited to live it all once more!”

What are the categories for Nailympia London 2022? “This year, the event is a hybrid one – with five categories for online entry and eight arena-based categories. Submissions for the online entry categories have now closed, but there is still time to enter the arena categories, which are Gel Polish Manicure, UV Gel Tip & Overlay, L&P Sculpture, Perfect Match, The Joy Of Nails, Salon Nails, Stiletto Nails and Fantasy Complete Look in divisions one, two and three.”

What can competitors expect from Nailympia London 2022? “A feeling of family. We are one big nail community and we thrive when we are together and networking. The Nailympia arena is a

Enter the live categories at Nailympia London 2022 by midnight on 27 September at www.nailympia.com

Find out about nail competitions taking place across the globe via www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/competitions 72 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Nailympia ®

2 - 3 October 2022 Olympia Beauty, London

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LONDON 2022

Compete live in London! 8 categories taking place for the first time in 3 years live in our London arena!

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

READERS GALLERY Medway-based nail stylist, MICHAELA PHILLIPS, shares her favourite artistic creations & future goals

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

Name – Michaela Phillips Age – 34 Business name – Gelalicious Location – Medway, Kent Years in nails – 7 Trained with – Kent Beauty School Favourite products – For cuticle and prep work, I use The Nail Lab UK tools. I specialise in gel polish nail art designs and use the Halo Gel Polish range from Pure Nails and HONA Detail Paints. Favourite nail technique – I discovered Builder In A Bottle (BIAB) while in lockdown and enjoy how it can transform a client’s nails. My L&P acrylic clients have all converted to BIAB enhancements and love the results. Favourite nail design – I have always been creative and love translating my ideas onto nails, which are mini canvases for art. I enjoy abstract nail

designs and trying new trends, which allows me to be adventurous. Much of my inspiration comes from Pinterest and my daily surroundings. Career ambition & vision – I currently work from my home studio and would love to expand my workspace so I can begin to teach classes and offer one-to-one training, as I attained my teaching qualification earlier this year. Education is my next focus, as I want to use my skills and passion for the craft to inspire fellow techs. I also want to win a Scratch Star as I’ve seen many leading nail technicians scoop an award for their work and contributions to the industry, and I would love to follow in their footsteps. Who do you admire in the industry? I have been watching Kirsty Meakin’s videos since the start of my career and have learned so much from her. I love her quirky nature and style of teaching, and met her at an industry competition earlier this year. I also follow the career of @missbettyrose from Sydney, Australia as her work is awesome. /Gelalicious8Nails

@gelalicious

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

The Beauty Guru Salon owner, Habia advisor & inclusivity awareness educator, SAM MARSHALL (she/her), serves up advice to better your business & ensure that it’s inviting to all

Are you inclusive? Like, really inclusive?

attended the Scratch Stars Party on 24 July (which was fabulous!) and noticed one thing in particular. No, it wasn’t the fabulous outfits, jaw-droppingly artistic nail art or amount of sheer love for the industry… it was the great representation across the room.

It wasn’t something I had actively noticed before my partner, Keri, told me about their experience at another industry awards. Keri had sat next to a person of colour, who said she counts the other people of colour in each room at events. At those other industry awards, there were just four people of colour in a room of around 300. Just four. As a white cis (cisgender) woman, I blend in at beauty events. I have never felt like a minority. In 2022, shouldn’t we have a more diverse mix of people not only attending awards, but entering them too? And it’s not just race. When Danny Manchip of Beau’s Beauty Box won the Scratch Star for Home Nail Salon of the Year, I actually shrieked to Keri, “OMG a man won – YAY!” I was elated that a man was on stage accepting an award. When I walk past non-standard salons (NSS), I see men working within them, but less so in other salon premises. Why aren’t there more men entering competitions in our industry? Leighton Denny MBE scooped numerous awards and built a brand out of his passion in the 2000’s, and surely his commitment and resilience in a female-dominated community must have spurred on many others to train?

“Clients may be more likely to visit a business if they see someone like As you know, gender inclusivity and trans them on its awareness is my thing. Now, approximately 2% of the population is gender diverse, so Instagram please make sure that if you hire someone who is, you help them to grow, thrive and feel feed.” empowered to be visible in their career. 78 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

“Approximately 2% of the population is gender diverse, so please make sure that if you hire someone who is, you help them to grow, thrive and feel empowered to be visible in their career.”

What can you do to be more inclusive? Recruitment: Ensure your advertising is inclusive and if you are using pictures of people within it, consider a variety of races, genders and ages. Policies and statements: Have you got any of these? Diversity, equity and inclusivity (DEI) policy templates can be found online (www.acas.org.uk is useful). You can customise the templates and post them on your website or alongside job adverts. Most gender diverse people will seek out these before applying for a job. Also consider a modern slavery policy. Again, you can find templates online and it makes sense to tell your clients and potential staff that you are aware of it. I have inclusivity statements on my website visible to my customers, so they know that everyone is welcome. Pronouns: I will continue to talk about pronouns until they are the norm. In a nutshell, if everyone uses pronouns, it means that someone who is trans or non-binary will feel validated and respected. Add them as an optional box on job application forms, booking systems and consultation forms and you may be surprised by how many people fill it in.

Representation: Clients may be more likely to visit a business if they see someone like them on its Instagram feed. Are all the hands on your business feed of young, white females with slim fingers? Look at your feed as a person of colour, trans woman or mature client. Would you book an appointment? Language: Get your language on point. I recently sat with a friend who is a disability solicitor and grilled her on what is and isn’t OK language wise. Educate yourself on dos and don’ts. And finally, if you are reading this and are someone who might be a minority in our industry, we respect you and never want you to feel under-represented. Much love,

Sam

(she/her)

Sam holds monthly Habia-endorsed Trans Awareness Training webinars. To book, visit www.thebeautyguru.me/trans-awareness-training @betransaware @beautygurusam

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SALONSPOTLIGHTS

Through the

Keyhole Take a peek inside salon setups across the UK as Scratch unlocks each door…

Mils Does Nails Location: Cheltenham

Millie Hegarty rented a room in a salon when she began offering nail services on a full-time basis, yet she had a big dream – to own her own space. “After renting the room for seven months, I made the biggest decision of my career to date and opened my own salon in the heart of Cheltenham, on The Promenade,” Millie shares. “I offer classic gel polish manicures, builder gel services, and luxury manis with a hand scrub and relaxing hand massage. I use Willow Academy and Navy Pro Tools for prep and The GelBottle Inc, Glossify and Jellie Nail Supplies for my enhancement services. I love the ethos of the brands I use for prep, as they focus on care of the nails and hands, and my chosen gel polish brands each have a huge range of shades.” Millie’s most popular services are for builder gel enhancements and bespoke nail art. “Nail art was the reason I started my nail career. I watched numerous Instagram masterclasses during lockdown and tried designs out on my own hands. Now, I love seeing the look on the face of each client when they see their nail art vision come to life,” Millie beams. “I have lovely, genuine clients who put their trust in me to work my magic and create a masterpiece.” The nail stylist’s personality shines through her salon décor, which is ‘calm, warming, happy and a little bit funky’. “I kept the walls white as I wanted the salon to feel light and airy, with a bay window a key feature of the room. Colour comes from the tropical prints and feature chairs in the coffee corner,” Millie notes. “I find that the bright colours and prints inspire my nail designs.” @milsdoesnails

Do you want to be featured on this page? Scan here to submit your salon or setup

Little Birch Nails Location: Derry/Londonderry

On qualifying as a nail technician in 2021, Rachael Dorrity was initially unable to build a client base due to lockdown and looking after her baby. However, when lockdown ended, she opened up a nail cabin in her garden and began to grow her business. “My salon is a sleek and stylish little hideaway; the perfect place for clients to relax and enjoy a nail service,” she says. “My father designed and built the cabin himself, which makes it even more special to me!” Rachael was keen to showcase a classy and elegant space, and Little Birch Nails features white panelling, a grey wooden floor and a wooden nail table with chrome elements. “I chose this style as I wanted the salon to have a professional yet warm and inviting feel,” she explains. “As the salon is based in my garden, I tried to bring some of the outdoors in, with emerald green chairs, plants and a miniature tree. I’ve blended elegance with garden elements, opting for gold, vintage-style furniture to complement the green shades perfectly.” Rachael’s chosen décor matches her green and gold logo, which the tech says helps keep her space recognisable across social media. “The huge window in the cabin lets in light to create a bright, calming atmosphere so my clients can sit back, relax and enjoy their experience,” she concludes. @littlebirchnails 80 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

TECHTALK

OVERCOMING

adversity Four nail pros share how they’ve overcome adversity in their personal & professional lives to carve out a successful career AS TOLD TO CALLIE ILEY

HANNAH FIAZ

Scratch Divas Manchester www.scratchdivas.co.uk /ScratchDivasNailsandBeauty @scratchdivasmobile.manchester

Hannah Fiaz was diagnosed with Borderline Personality Disorder (BPD) in 2018, and bravely opens up about her experience with the mental health condition and how it affects her role as a nail pro. “The best way that I can describe BPD is that it severely impacts my ability to regulate emotions,” Hannah reveals. “The loss of emotional control can affect how I feel about myself, and negativity can impact on my relationships with others. “People who struggle with BPD often experience intense mood swings and feel uncertainty about how they see themselves. Their feelings for others can change quickly and swing from extreme closeness to extreme dislike. People with BPD also tend to view things in extremes, such as all good or all bad,” she details. “The condition has had a big impact on my career, relationships and social life. The mixture of emotions throughout each day can result in multiple highs and lows. “My subconscious self regularly makes me feel as if I am not worthy or am a failure. I have learned to keep myself busy so that I don’t feed into it. Being a nail tech in an industry which can be cut-throat, while struggling with mental illness, is chaos. However, I have been in this industry far too long to give up; nail styling is my passion and I love being creative.” Hannah finds that nail competitions and social media can induce anxiety. “They can be very overwhelming for me. Seeing more nail techs who struggle with their mental health being celebrated and praised for their work would help motivate me, and hopefully create less stigma for mental illness while raising awareness about its effects.”

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Hannah ensures that she stays organised and separates her personal and professional lives to look after her mental health. She also makes an effort to present herself professionally, noting that she feels better about herself and her brand when she does so. She has established clear boundaries and doesn’t accept appointments from clients who are rude or abrupt, protecting herself from potential triggers. “To any techs struggling with their mental health, remember you are not on your own, you are good enough and if you want to be successful, you can. I don’t know what it takes to be an awardwinning nail artist or nail tech as I’m not there yet, but it doesn’t mean it’s impossible. It just means it requires more graft and patience. “I have often sat in floods of tears thinking I’m a failed nail artist, but this is not true. We are our own worst critic. If there is anything that I have learned working in the nail industry, it’s that you have to be strong and celebrate the small wins,” she smiles. “With BPD, validation is really important. It isn’t always possible in this industry because there will always be others that are ahead. Focus on your self-belief and self-motivation, as there is no such thing as a perfect nail tech, and we are all capable of creating art in our own way. Mental illness does not define our capabilities; it’s our minds and emotions that we struggle with, not the work we produce.” Hannah shares that she is considering setting up a social media group for techs who struggle with their mental health, as a way to offer up support and a sense of hope. “It could host fun nail competitions to help people showcase their talent,” she reveals. “If you are struggling with your mental health, please seek help. Your GP can direct you to mental health services that are available. There may be a long waiting list but please don’t let this put you off, as any help or therapy is really beneficial to recovery. It may be a long process but it is important to ask for help and talk to someone professionally so you can learn coping strategies.”

TECHTALK

CARLA HUGHES CJs Nails and Lashes /cjsnailswsm @cjs_nails_and_lashes_wsm On the night of 22 June 2021, Carla Hughes woke up to the sound of her dog barking and a strange smell. “As I made my way to the back of my house, I could see that the nail salon in my garden was on fire. My garden was full of smoke and two firemen were battling the blaze,” she recalls. “Once the fire had been extinguished, it was clear to see that nothing from my salon was salvageable,” Carla continues. “One fireman said we had been lucky that a neighbour had alerted them after hearing what they thought were fireworks. However, it was actually bottles of chemicals in the salon exploding. “Once the police and firemen left, I sat and wondered how I would rebuild my business. It seemed an impossible task. I’d only been trading for about six months and the financial outlay had been difficult.” Looking around her salon, Carla could see melted bottles of gel polish, her dripping nail art display, her desk broken, and the salon floor covered in soot. “I was in shock and didn’t know what to do, so I wrote a post on social media, explaining that I’d lost everything, and it was probably the end of my career as a nail tech.” Carla received outpourings of support from fellow techs eager to help. Businesses offered to send her nail supplies and techs offered spare items so she could offer nail services again. “The support was overwhelming and made me determined to get my business back up and running. Within a couple of weeks, I was able to start working from my dining room using products I’d bought and been sent. “Immediately after the fire, I rang my home insurance company. It turned out that because I rent my property and only had cover for contents, I could not claim for damage or loss for sheds or outbuildings,” Carla shares. “This was a shock, but I’d been lucky enough to have been gifted most of my new equipment, so I decided to save up to get my burnt salon and its contents removed, and to get a new one built. Fast forward to March 2022, and I began working in my new garden salon, which is bigger and better than before.

Carla’s current workspace

“Looking back, it was an upsetting and stressful time, but with the support of others, I am in a better position than before the fire,” Carla smiles. “I am so grateful for the help I have received and for the kindness I have been shown. My advice to any nail techs working from home would be to double check your insurance policy and to get a home security system if possible. But above all else, don’t give up when it gets tough.”

HAYLEY BRADFORD Last Night’s Nails /lastnightsnail @lastnightsnails

Hayley Bradford qualified in nails in 2016 while working as a mental health nurse, having always enjoyed manicure appointments. “After completing a course in gel application, I knew I wanted to do nails as a career. And I love glitter!” she laughs. However, managing her job alongside nails was a challenge for Hayley. “Finding time to juggle nursing and be a mum to two little girls was hard enough. Trying to follow my passion and put time aside for training and practice added an extra level of difficulty and was emotionally draining,” she remembers. “Running a ward as nurse in charge is very stressful. In addition, I felt guilty about missing time with my children while working one job and training for another. Luckily, I have a supportive and encouraging husband who has always made sure that I can follow my dreams. “During the pandemic, I was having to work from home due to a chronic condition. It was during this time that my husband secured a promotion, and we became more financially stable,” Hayley explains. “A local tattoo studio advertised a room to rent close to home, and both my children were in full-time education. It seemed like the stars had aligned and it was the right time to leave my post at the hospital and take the leap into a new adventure.” Hayley’s nail career began at a tricky time, as she opened to clients just one week before the second lockdown. She returned to her hospital job until April 2021, utilising any spare time to make bespoke press-on nails. When she returned to nail styling, she found transitioning from hospital shifts to a 9-5 schedule to be a big change. “It’s been a learning curve but has afforded me more time with my children. Being solely responsible for a business was a massive shock,” she says. “I’ve created a more structured approach to how I keep on top of communication and social media, which means I’m not as overwhelmed as previously.” Hayley believes that with over a decade of experience in mental health nursing, she can provide a safe and comfortable environment for clients. “I wanted clients to have a place where they can come to enjoy some peace and quiet or have a friendly chat and put the world to rights. In this respect, I’m happy to be led by the customer and allow them to dictate the type of experience they feel they need. “Although mental health nursing and tekking may sound very different, there are a lot of similarities. They both involve spending time with people. I ensure that my clients leave feeling relaxed, cared for and happy with their treatment; hopefully with plenty of sparkle!”

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TECHTALK

HELEN BROOKS

even though I’m unable to work on clients, I enjoy creating designs, trying new products and sharing my work. Practice hands have been a great help, as they allow me to share my designs in a slightly more realistic way.

Cinderhellie Nails /cinderhellienails @cinderhellienails /CinderhellieNails While recovering from a chest infection, Helen Brooks noticed some side effects, initially assuming they were caused by the medication. However, these effects continued to develop, and following numerous consultations over the course of a year, she received a diagnosis of fibromyalgia. “I have now been in pain for six years, but every day is different,” Helen reveals. “Some days I can do more than others, but the pain never goes. Fibromyalgia is more than just pain and I suffer with so many other effects, such as chronic headaches, light and noise sensitivity and insomnia. Chronic fatigue is the other main symptom for me, so some days I cannot get out of bed. I’ve also found that I struggle badly with ‘fibro fog’, where I can’t remember things, get very muddled or feel overwhelmed with lots of new information.” At the time of diagnosis, Helen worked as a mobile tech, and had to stop working as she could no longer drive or lift her nail kit. “I still don’t work on clients except for my sisters and a friend,” she says. “I can’t book in any other clients as each day is so unpredictable, and it wouldn’t be fair if I had to cancel an appointment at the last minute. I can’t sit and work for more than 30 minutes without needing a break as my pain gets overwhelming and I suffer weakness in my arm and hand, and can get very tired and lose focus. “I lost my independence when I was diagnosed with fibromyalgia, as I had to give up driving and needed support when leaving the house. I mainly use a wheelchair when I’m out but can occasionally manage on crutches. I also suffer quite badly with anxiety and depression. I’ve almost gone through a process of grieving the old me. I can manage days out or special events with my family, but they have to be well planned. I will rest a lot for a couple of days beforehand to make sure I can manage, and then make no plans for the four or five days that follow so I can recover. “Originally, I believed I would be back working within a few months, so it was important to me to keep improving and using the time to learn new things. As time went on, I realised it was going to take longer but I still believed I would get back working, so I wanted to ensure when that happened, I was offering the best service I could,” Helen recalls. “Nails is a huge passion for me and

“My bedroom doubles as my nail room so I am able to sit on my bed to work,” Helen shares. “If I’m filming for my YouTube channel, I try to film a few designs at a time. If I’m struggling, I will sit on my bed and work on some display tips, and on particularly bad days, I try to edit videos or plan designs. I’ve learned the hard way to really listen to my body and stop when I need to.” Helen has been offered a range of support by fellow techs throughout her time in the industry. “The industry is full of amazing people, and I have made a lot of friends within it. Over the last two years, Gemma Lambert-Lewis has been my biggest support. Gemma has pushed me and given me opportunities I could have never imagined, and I am truly grateful. She has pushed me out of my comfort zone with my nail work but has also been an incredible friend and someone I can talk to about anything. Helen with Gemma Lambert-Lewis

“My best advice to anyone who’s struggling with fibromyalgia is to talk with your GP and a pain management specialist to see what works best for you. Fibromyalgia sufferers are all affected differently, so what works for one person might not work for another,” she says. “It will take time, but you need to find the medication and other treatment options that help you best. Take things one day at a time because no two days are the same. “My ultimate goal is to open my books up to clients again. Eventually, I will be creating a dedicated nail room in my house as we are renovating, and I am eager to add more content to my YouTube channel. I am a nail educator, and would like to offer online training, help and support to nail techs in similar situations to me. I know my health will be the deciding factor, so if that means I just continue on the path I have been on the last few years, then I’d be happy with that. However, if the opportunity came to help other techs, then I would embrace it.”

DID YOU KNOW? For more than 150 years, the Hair & Beauty Charity has helped those in our industry who have fallen on hard times. It offers practical and financial support to those who need it and their families in order to make their lives a little easier. To apply for support, visit www.hairandbeautycharity.org

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SCRATCH PADS A fresh & funky abode An award-winning Holloway hair business brings next level nail art to its mix, in a premises designed to make all feel at home. REBECCA HITCHON takes a visit...

saw smiles all round when I stepped inside North London salon, Bebop: on the faces of staff and clients, in the brand’s signature smiley face logo, and plastered on my own face. What’s not to love about a light and airy space full of colourful décor, with speakers pumping out music and a spectacular nail art menu?

Kara Elliott

Formerly a salon solely offering hair services, Bebop moved a short distance to a larger premises in May, bringing with it the fun but equally relaxed vibe of its former HQ and a newly appointed nail team to expand its treatment menu. As I chat to head of nails, Kara Elliott, she tells me that the smiles don’t end there. With a signature ‘Bebop mani’ available, featuring smiley face nail art inspired by the salon’s branding, Bebop is determined to become an iconic beauty space.

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Incorporating nail services Kara, who juggles her role at Bebop alongside working full-time as a town planner, became familiar with the salon through friends that were clients. Bebop’s owners had always wanted to introduce nail treatments alongside the hair offerings and while there was demand from clients, there wasn’t enough space. During a chat with the owners, it became apparent that Kara was a good fit to help the salon branch out into nail services. “Bebop’s ethos is: ‘we make wearable hair’, and that is similar to the one I have towards nails,” she reveals. “I enjoy providing a service, so my nail work focuses on what the client likes and what is practical for them to wear. Bebop is a strong brand, the team is personable and we all do what we can to show that we care about and understand our clients.” The analogy she uses to explain this is that working at Bebop isn’t like serving a conveyor belt of clients. Instead, the team respects >> and makes an effort to get to know each client when they visit.

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“We don’t just target one type of person; our salon is for everybody, so not only does the space feel inclusive, but our branding and marketing materials are too. We have tried to present Bebop in a neutral and fun way.”

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“We do things differently. The way that we get to the end result is just as important as the result itself.” Alongside being skilled in client care, Kara’s creativity shines through as she talks about Bebop – and is clear through the mismatched styles I see across her nails, from leopard print to checkerboard. “I love nail art because it’s adaptable and the possibilities are endless, plus it’s a great way to express personality, just as you would with fashion choices,” Kara explains. “I need to do nails as a creative outlet, as it contrasts to my role writing reports as a town planner. If I didn’t have my nail work, I would really lack something in my life.”

Setting up the space After being appointed as head of nails, Kara had the exciting task of setting up the salon’s nail area and recruiting two other artists, Hayley Evans-Smith and Andreia Falcão, both of whom are also session stylists. “The process of being Bebop’s first head of nails has been amazing – it’s been like getting to set up my own salon through someone else,” Kara smiles. “Bebop’s owners had an idea for the nail space, but we worked together to make this vision practical for nail pros. Everything, from the dimensions of the tables to products and the length and pricing of treatments, was down to me.” For the nail artist, whose portfolio includes working for recognised nail names such as WAH Nails, House of Lady Muck and Shoreditch Nails, the experience was a unique one. But Kara reveals that she took inspiration from each brand to create Bebop’s nail offering. As you walk into the salon, the nail area is the first thing seen, with a pink nail desk serving up to four clients on the left side of the space, while hair treatments take place on the right. There are also several individual seating areas throughout, adding to Bebop’s relaxed vibe. While the nail and hair sections each have a unique design, the space is married by a bold but stylish colour scheme featuring orange, green, yellow, blue, pink and red, as well as Bebop branding and plants throughout. Each feature feels carefully selected to add to the salon’s fun energy, which Kara confirms it was. She tried to source as many local and sustainable items as possible; the concrete nail trays and pots, featuring orange and pink flecks, were custom-made by a local business, as was the bespoke shelving unit for nail product bottles. Kara is also searching for local handcare brands that she can use and retail at Bebop.

Hayley Evans-Smith, Andreia Falcão & Kara Elliott

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With her mum working as a nail tech and owning salons during her upbringing, the nail pro’s involvement in the sector from an early age helped her to organise the space. However, she, she admits that at Bebop, the team doesn’t follow the same rules as other beauty businesses, and for this reason, the salon has little competition. “We do things differently, for example with hair appointments, just one stylist – regardless of level – provides each client with their full treatment, from consultation to hair wash and cut. And for nails, the way that we get to the end result is just as important as the result itself,” Kara details.

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“Bebop is a strong brand, the team is personable and we all do what we can to show that we care about and understand our clients.” “We don’t just target one type of person and for that reason, we have a diverse range of clients,” she continues. “Our salon is for everybody, so not only does the space feel inclusive, but our branding and marketing materials are too, featuring different types of people. We have tried to present Bebop in a neutral and fun way.” Despite only opening four months ago, the efforts that the Bebop team has made to achieve success in the new salon premises have paid off. “We had an opening offer of 30% off for new clients, which was really popular, so now we have a good stream of both new clients and regulars that have followed Bebop from the previous space,” says Kara. The nail team offers polish and gel manicures, including luxury manicures and the ‘Bebop mani’, with standard or intricate nail art offered as an add-on. Kara explains that she has tried to make the nail treatment menu straightforward in order to avoid any confusion. She has also sought to make Bebop’s nail offerings good value for money, with the ‘Bebop mani’ being £5 more than the price of a regular gel or polish manicure, and French tips and half moons are also an additional £5.

Future hopes & dreams

/bebopldn

Photographer: Shona Wong

Kara is thinking big for Bebop’s nail future, with ambitions to grow the brand’s client base and subsequently number of nail artists, in the hope of becoming Instagram famous. She would also like to expand the salon’s offering to iincorporate L&P acrylic enhancements and education, after enjoying running nail art workshops at Shoreditch Nails. Outside of the salon itself, Kara reveals that she’s been dreaming of hosting a Bebop pop up at an event like Glastonbury Festival, offering a unique mix of hair braiding and nail styling. Hearing this surrounded by the buzz of Bebop’s stylists and clientele in its inviting new space, it feels like the team will be able to do whatever it puts its mind to – and people will love it. @bebopldn SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 89

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

STYLE WITH

e i d a S

‘ Creative nail expert & content creator for TGB & Peacci, SADIE JORDAN, shares on-trend nail styles, tips & steps

Nail styles for the new season

ne of the most difficult things about being a nail artist is keeping on top of nail trends. Many clients are happy with classic shades and styles, but trends, techniques and designs can become popular overnight, so it’s important to take note in order to accommodate client requests. Keep an eye on social media and fashion shows, as the fashion industry showcases trends at least a season ahead of release, with the assistance of trend forecasting. Nail trends are frequently influenced by fashion looks, so turn to the fashion world to discover what looks can be expected next season.

HOT TRENDS

• Metallic/chrome nails • Wavy and 70’s -inspired nail art • Aura nails • 3D nail art • Embellishments Follow Sadie: @sadiejnails The GelBottle Inc products are available via www.thegelbottle.com /thegelbottleinc @the_gelbottle_inc /TheGelBottleInc 90 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

STEP-BY-STEP: Aura Nails One of my favourite looks for autumn is aura nails. These usually involve a mix of colours to showcase an aura, in an ombré or gradient style to represent different layers of energy. For this tutorial, I have chosen a warm and bright colour scheme of yellow and orange that’s fitting for the autumn season. Step 1 Paint two coats of a neutral, semi-sheer base. I used one coat of TGB gel polish in French Bloom topped with one coat of Oyster. Cure. Step 2 Apply a thin layer of TGB Blooming Gel. Do not cure. Step 3 Place small blobs of TGB in Daffodil into the wet Blooming Gel and allow to spread before curing. Step 4 Apply another thin coat of Blooming Gel before applying smaller blobs of TGB in Bellini in the centre of the yellow shapes. Allow to spread before curing. Step 5 Using a detail or liner brush, paint some sparkles and dots around the auras using TGB in Daisy. Step 6 Apply TGB’s Extreme Shine Top Coat to finish the look.

TOP TIPS

• Keep hands flat after applying Blooming Gel to prevent distortion of the circular shapes. • Do not to apply too much product when creating the aura shapes, as this can create thick and uneven areas. • Combine trends: Instead of the white sparkle and dot details, try using a metallic foil such as TGB’s Silver Lining, which can be applied with FoilX Foil Gel.

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TECHTALK

Picture

Perfect

Social media aficionados & expert photographers reveal top tips for achieving nail photo perfection REBECCA HITCHON REPORTS Magpie Beauty educator, Ruth Munro, showcases a pose suited to long nails.

Being a nail tech involves many roles: that of an artist, therapist, marketing specialist and also photographer. Nail photos attract Simone Radley people to your brand, as INK London educator, Simone Radley, explains: “I tell students to think of their social media account as their shop window; nail photos need to show their work at its best and set them apart from competition.” Rachael Wilders, nail educator, product supplier and photographer of Scratch’s July issue cover, agrees, adding: “My students are Rachael Wilders encouraged to make their photos ‘zoom-in-able’, which means that they should look just as good when zoomed in or up close, to truly reflect their skills.”

Hand poses

Ruth Munro uses this pose for clients with shorter nails.

When taking photos of clients’ nails, it is important to remember that one pose won’t suit all. Giorgia Capella, The GelBottle Inc ambassador Giorgia Capella and educator, tells Scratch that the best nail photos are those utilising poses that feel natural for the client. “Potential customers want to see your range of skills, so mixing up your social media platforms with a variety of hand poses will make them more interesting,” she adds.

But how can a client-enticing nail image be achieved? We’ve sourced top tips from experts on a variety of areas for photo success… Ruth Munro

To avoid clients tensing their hands, Magpie Beauty educator, Ruth Munro, asks them to put their elbow on the nail desk and relax their wrists. “How their hands fall naturally will be the most flattering position, and you can change the angle of the wrists to produce different images,” she explains. Rachael Wilders has a similar technique, encouraging clients to shake their hands to loosen them up.

Salon snapshot

This designated photo corner in Pinky’s Nails & Beauty, Northumberland, utilises a plain wall as a backdrop with a stand-up ring light to perfect pics.

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TECHTALK

Backdrop

Just like hand poses, one backdrop won’t suit all photos – and the nail design and colour will affect which backgrounds are complementary, and which are distracting. However, there are a few key rules to follow.

Hand poses 101

Scratch Stars Gel Polish Stylist of the Year 2022, Jiak Hing, explains how to master her five go-to hand poses.

Relaxed claw: “Place the back of one hand against a flat surface and position the camera facing the nails, 45 degrees above and about 10cm away.”

Classic overlap: “With the left hand on a flat surface, palm facing down, put the right hand on top, without covering the left ring finger. Take the photo at hand level.”

“Always aim for the nails to be the focus of the photo, to instantly draw people to your work,” advises Jemma Ball, Willow Academy educator. “Clutter or a busy background, such as one with products left out or a dusty desk, will draw attention away from the nails.” Jemma Ball

For this reason, Arienne Jonas of AJ Feather Photography, who has worked with many UK nail brands and techs, always uses a plain background. “I say ‘less is more’, as less Arienne Jonas uses a grey distraction background to maintain the puts more focus on the model and nails. Arienne Jonas focus on the nails. My go-to backdrops are plain black, grey, cream, blue and dark green,” she reveals. It is also vital to ensure that a non-shiny material is used to prevent light reflections, advises Simone Radley. She uses easy to clean, silicone baking sheets to create matte backdrops and finds them ideal for use in the salon, too.

Side hip: “Place the hands above and below each other on the side of the hip, below the waist. Face the camera slightly upwards to show complementary nails and clothing.”

A clean white backdrop draws the eyes to these nails by Simone Radley.

Hand cuddling: “Put the left hand over the right in a cupping position, taking the photo from above. This is great for showcasing all 10 nails of a bespoke set.”

Handbag pinching: “Position the hands holding a bag from its top and side. This lifestyle pose is suited to clients with a bag that matches their nails.” Karen Louise

Karen Louise, Salon System nail expert and session manicurist, agrees that simple backdrops are best. “However, blurry backgrounds can sometimes be effective as they add interest, without distracting too much from the nails,” she says. She adds that this brings variety to your social media posts, but if you choose to stick to a theme, you can create an effective look by adding a border to images.

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TECHTALK

Props

Nail photo props are loved by some and avoided by others, but when used correctly, they can make an impact. “With props, you want to give context but not distract from the nails. Again, less is more,” comments Arienne Jonas. “Anything contrasting or bold will take focus away from the nails, but fun ideas include bubbles or an item to hold.”

Lighting

“Good lighting is key for nail photos, as dark shadows and blurry images draw the eyes away from the nails – but when a photo is well lit, the colours pop and the design is shown in perfect detail,” explains Jemma Ball.

Arienne Jonas positions this musicthemed nail set over a saxophone.

Karen Louise suggests using a prop in the background of an image if you want to make it more interesting, but are worried about taking attention away from the nails. “Keep to your colour scheme with props so they look intentional – for example, use a shirt or shoes that complement the nail design,” she adds. If you don’t have a clothing item to match a particular nail design, don’t worry! Rachael Wilders sells neutral black and white fake sleeves, helping to balance and stage nail photos.

“Natural sunlight and golden hour are your best friends, as they create Crisp lighting used beautiful shadows that add depth to by Jemma Ball. images,” reveals Giorgia Capella. “If you can’t take clients outside, take images close to a natural light source like a window, making sure the light source is behind the camera and you are using different angles to avoid shadows on the nails.”

Giorgia Capella expertly places these nails in sunlight, with captivating shadows behind.

When working on lighting for nail images, Sophie Donaldson adds that it’s important to show the line of light in the polish, for an aesthetically pleasing and neat finish. She advises not rubbing cuticle oil over the nail to avoid ruining this line.

Nails by The GelBottle Inc ambassador, Bryony Howell, to match a jacket.

Fake Sleeve Nail Photo Prop £2.95 inc. VAT www.rachaelwilders.co.uk

Georgie Smedley Group ambassador, Sophie Donaldson, agrees that utilising a client’s style is a valuable way to use Sophie Donaldson showcases a props. “It shows how matching feature nail and outfit. wearable the nails are, Sophie Donaldson so your followers will ask for similar designs as they’ll know how to style the nails,” she says. “But also, try different props and don’t worry about what everyone else is doing – some props might seem strange to use but may be the reason why someone stops scrolling on social media to take a look.”

This pink mani pic by @bykaylawatson ‘ ManiPedi Scrub features the Peacci used within the treatment.

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Photos with products as a prop catch the eye of The GelBottle Inc ambassador, Megan Kelly. She likes it when Megan Kelly a product used within the nail service, such as an exfoliant or hand cream, is incorporated within the image. “It helps to elevate the luxe feeling that the manicure has given and is more than something simply decorative,” she tells Scratch.

If you are unable to use natural lighting, Karen Louise advises using white bulbs, as these imitate natural light and can be created with everything from ring lights to small portable lights, which are perfect for session work.

Sophie Donaldson captures the line of light on this red manicure.

Daylight Company Aura Ring Lamp £199.99 inc VAT www.daylightcompany.com

Remember to...

Clean A well shot nail photo is no good if you haven’t taken time to clean up areas that will affect the finish, such as a dirty camera lens or an oily cuticle area. This is why Rachael Wilders uses cuticle balms for a less greasy look and after letting the Rachael Wilders Buffit Cloth £1.95 inc. VAT each product soak in, she wipes away any www.rachaelwilders.co.uk excess and uses her brand’s Buffit Cloths to buff a high shine back onto the nails. Avoid distortion “A good angle for the nails is a key component to making them the focus, so don’t get too close to the nails in order to prevent distortion,” recommends Arienne Jonas. “Whatever is closest to the camera always looks bigger; you don’t want to make the hand or nails look huge or deformed.” Overshoot Arienne advises taking five to 10 images of each pose to obtain the best photo – something which Sophie Donaldson also recommends for social media, as you may not be able to tell at the time what will look best on the grid or next to your other posts.

Scratch magazine's annual photographic competition p

Have your say in the winner of the Voter's Choice accolade by casting your vote for your favourite entry between 5-12 September!

Winner's Reveal

When: 3 October, 3:45pm Where: Olympia Beauty, London You can also stream it live on Scratch's Facebook & Instagram!

/scratchmag

@scratchmagazine

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SOCIALSCENE

Take a peek behind-the-scenes of Scratch’s online platforms & see what’s piquing the interest of fellow pros… Instagram.c

om/bysarale

igh

S T A T S A NAIL VACATION

Brits are most interested in their nails when it comes to going on holiday, with queries linked to ‘holiday nails’ searched for 414,960 times a year, according to Clarins Beauty Daily’s analysis of Google search data.

PRICE POINTS

Instagram.com/nailsbyzola

Most loved...

GOING FOR GLAZED

Our online gallery of glazed donut nails was the most viewed piece of content on the Scratch website last month. The style was made popular by Hailey Bieber’s manicurist, Zola Ganzorigt, who created the glossy nail look for Bieber’s Met Gala appearance.

SUPER SKINCARE

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Nails by @glammertized using Glitterbels products.

TUNED IN

The average sales price for women’s skincare products increased by 7% in the first half of 2022, compared to the same period in 2021. Women’s prestige skincare sales were up 8% year-on-year, while mid-range skincare sales increased just 4%, indicating that women are opting for more premium products with a higher price point.

m/glammer

tized

HOT STAT

‘Orange’ is the most searched-for nail colour and ‘coffin’ the most searched-for shape for holiday nail inspo, according to Clarins Beauty Daily’s analysis of Google searches.

Our most watched live interview last month was with Lucy James, CEO & founder of Willow Academy, and Willow MD, Tori Hennigan. The duo discussed the product range, training options and story of Willow Academy. Find out more on page 58

and re-watch the live here

/scratchmag

@scratchmagazine

Instagram.co

These fun mix ‘n match nails created by @bysaraleigh scooped the most likes when we reposted them on our Instagram feed last month. Commenters loved the combination of bright colours, wavy lines and hand-painted eyes and faces.

According to the NHBF’s State Of The Industry survey, 62% of hair and beauty businesses raised their prices between May and July 2022.

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TECHTALK

Competition

Queens

Get to know the Greek nail team scooping titles across the globe, as REBECCA HITCHON uncovers its secrets for success THE COACH:

While competitions are a key part of professional development and provide the opportunity to showcase and reward talent, they can be daunting and tough for participants. For the coach and nail stylists making up the nearly 70-strong, female Empire nail team based in Greece, fear is an emotion that they have all experienced during their time as a competition cohort. However, what masks this fact is the support each team member gives one another – a factor that has helped them receive global accolades, such as the Best Nail Team title 12 times.

EMSI VATUI Background

Emiliya Vatui, who uses ‘Emsi’ as her artist name, has spent her career honing her skills, competing, educating and judging in nail competitions worldwide. With a wealth of degrees, global titles and brand collaborations under her belt, her love for nails has never wavered. She has founded a range of organisations to support professionals, such as a nail art club in Greece and an international online nail art school. Emsi’s trophy collection boasts 172 cups, including for Best Coach, and the titles fo nail pro is now preparing her own competition, Rising Stars League of the World, launching in World Finland in November.

Scratch spoke to Empire’s coach, Emsi Vatui, and eight of her students to learn how they stay strong as a unit and conquer competition challenges.

“Many people are afraid of competitions, but there is no such thing as a fearless person. If you have big nail dreams, follow them; find a coach and spread your wings to reach new heights. No one is alone on the path they are taking.” Emsi Vatui 98 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

With her expertise evident, it is no surprise that Emsi decided to establish her own nail team in 2020, officially forming and naming it in 2021. However, she admits to never considering the idea until someone close to her inspired her to take the leap.

Key to success Emsi has proudly taken on the role of the team’s coach and leader, and values her relationships with her students. “The key to a successful nail team is a supportive approach from the coach. A coach must make new members feel assured so that there is a high level of trust, and this must come from within,” Emsi tells Scratch. “Discipline is very important, too – as my students say, ‘I may be cute, but I’m also very strict and I fight for our team.’ “Competitions are very important to nail specialists and by competing, they can follow their dreams,” she adds. “I like to show them that they have wings; I teach them to open them and fly, and I love being a part of that flight.” /emiliya.emsi

@emsivatui

TECHTALK

VESELINA CHANKOVA Background After attending an online workshop run by Emsi in 2021, Veselina was invited by the educator to join the Empire nail team. “I was a bit worried because I had never participated in nail competitions before, but I accepted Emsi’s offer to join the team and take the plunge, as I wanted to challenge myself,” she reveals. “Now, I like to compete because of the thrill, and world judges appreciating my work brings joy to me and my clients.”

Key to success “Emsi is a successful coach because she inspires the team,” Veselina comments. “During my first competition, I wondered whether I would qualify among so many participants, but Emsi gave me the courage to enter. I was so happy when they announced the results and I heard my name! “I can ask Emsi for advice at any time and she responds so quickly – even when I ask numerous questions,” she smiles. “For one of my competitions, I decided to paint her portrait as a ‘thank you’.”

m // EEvv g om ge co en ok..c niia a..nna bo ook aiill eb cce a ll FFa

/veselina.chankova

@veselina_chankova

EVGENIA ALEKSANDROVNA Background A lover of long nail shapes and extensions, Evgenia joined Emsi’s nail team early on in its establishment. She entered to try her hand at competing and test the quality of her work at an international level, with an aim to develop professionally.

“Competitions are a great opportunity to view the work of those competing at the same level as you and identify any gaps you may have.” Tedi Decheva

Key to success Evgenia believes that each Empire team member’s love for their work has helped them be a force to be reckoned with, both individually and collectively. She gives the example of an international championship in Sochi, Russia, which was the largest and most ambitious competition that the team had entered. But with courage and hard graft, the team took home first place trophies, both individually and as a collective. “Beyond her professional skills, knowledge and experience, Emsi has a huge heart – which helps us to succeed,” says Evgenia. /Evgenia.naill

TEDI DECHEVA Background Tedi Decheva joined the Empire nail team in 2020 with a desire to upgrade her knowledge, challenge herself and be recognised. She feels this desire, spurred on even more by being part of the team, has helped her to win first place titles at championships across the globe, from London to Korea.

Key to success “The team is united with the same goals and led by a great coach,” Tedi reveals. “Emsi loves what she does and manages to convey that to us. She is inspiring, patient and organised, and knows how to give courage and incentive when we need it most.” /Lady Zone

@evgenianaill

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TECHTALK

ALEX STEFANI Background After an existing Empire member saw Alex’s work, she was encouraged to join the team in January 2021. Alex’s specialism lies in education, with the pro having a keen interest in sharing her knowledge with others. She admits to learning a lot from being an Empire team member, commenting: “I’ve learned to fight for the desired result, to keep going even if I don’t succeed, and to get out of my comfort zone to surpass my expectations.”

Key to success “With each Empire team member excelling in different areas, it’s easy for us to stand out as a collective,” Alex reveals. “Emsi has an enviable insight, knowing exactly where you need to improve and in which competition category you should take part. If it weren’t for her, I would not have won first place as Master Instructor in the Golden Rose Bulgarian Championship 2022. That accomplishment has been the driving force for me to improve and aim high.” /alex.coverdale.9

ail

Melek Nihatova

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@alexstefani9

Veta Kombouli

m/melek

Background

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A gel polish specialist, Melek joined the Empire team earlier this year, after attending one of Emsi’s seminars. Emsi had set participants the task of practicing what they had learned and sending her the result. After seeing what Melek had created, Emsi invited her to join Empire.

Key to success Despite only joining the team recently, Melek has already won a first place competition prize in Bulgaria. Admitting that she was filled with nerves, she explains that Emsi helped her to channel her ideas and emotions in the right way to win. “You can’t have a successful team without a good mentor,” she comments. “Emsi believes in us more than we believe in ourselves and is so dedicated. We’ve created roses at midnight and extreme nails until two ‘o’ clock in the morning!” /meleknihatovanails

@melek_nihatova_nails

Background A member of Emsi’s nail team for two years, Veta joined after being inspired to take a leap and start competing in recognised global competitions. Drawn to competing so that she can improve her skills, the nail pro believes she can improve as much as is possible by being part of the team.

Key to success “What makes our team special is that Emsi is always by our side, willing to help and offer advice,” says Veta. “First of all, she is a great human and then on top of that, she is a well qualified instructor.” /veta.kombouli @nails_veta_artist

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TECHTALK

Maria Vissi Background Joining the Empire nail team in January 2021 was a long time coming for Maria, who had been following and admiring Emsi’s work and skills of her students for a while. She saw the opportunity to be motivated to go far and improve with every competition.

Key to success “So much can be achieved by being a part of Empire. For example, I succeeded in my first world competition in Korea, winning first place in a junior nail art category,” says Maria. “In my second competition in Bulgaria, we decided that I should take a big step and enter the master category, and I still managed to win second place! “I think the fact that every student is different, but each person in the team is kind, especially Emsi who supports us on a personal basis, has helped us succeed.” @_nail_addiction__

“Competitions are the highest level that a nail stylist can conquer. The bigger a competition, the more inspiring it is.”

c Fa

.com/ArtFreya ook Na ils

Tsvetomira Tsekova

Tsvetomira Tsekova Background One of the newer members of the team, Tsvetomira was invited to join Empire in spring. The Bulgarian nail pro was drawn to the fact that Emsi also comes from Bulgaria but has made a name for herself outside the country. And the offer couldn’t have come at a better time, with Tsvetomira looking to expand her horizons and compete in global competitions. “My biggest passion lies in the construction of enhancements, because I see this as the greatest opportunity for creative thinking,” she explains. “I used to think that I only wanted to and could compete in design categories, because I studied Fine Art, but being part of the team has helped me to see things differently.”

Key to success Describing Emsi as a ‘champion discoverer’, Tsvetomira explains how the coach chooses people who she knows she can support and encourage to reach their full potential. “She lets students embrace their creativity as much as possible, too,” she notes. /ArtFreyaNails

@freya_nails_art

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ABT at Olympia Beauty 2022 ABT will be at Olympia next month on Stand F01 to talk all things insurance and accreditation.

portal where you can climb from blue to beyond and earn points and rewards along the way. A safe place where you can check your insurance details and documentation and it is here you can utilise our ‘Find the Nearest’ marketing tools as well.

www.abtinsurance.co.uk / 01789 773 573

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The annual print subscription to the UK’s leading nail magazine is available to Nails, Tanning & Make-Up insurance customers for FREE (worth £39). For all other membership categories who are huge fans of Scratch magazine just like we are, you are able to get your hands on this industry leading magazine by getting a printed copy of the magazine at an ABT discounted rate of just £19.50 which is half price! (RRP £39). When taking out your insurance it’s available to add very easily at our checkout!

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We are In Touch Beautyandhairdressing.co.uk We are ‘In Touch’ with you through, Beautyandhairdressing.co.uk ABT’s unique membership website that delivers up to date Beauty, Hairdressing, Industry and Lifestyle news. With our designated member area offering tailored benefits, discount and unique content as well as free salon signage and ABTs Guide to COVID-19 we are keeping you up to date with ABT’s stance on industry topics as they happen such as, patch testing after COVID-19, The Importance of Consultation Cards, Track and Trace and A Guide to Salon Safety, plus much more with step by step guides to the latest nail trends and products that are available for the season, as well as expert advice if you are looking to diversify your treatment menu.

Beauty | Hair | Complementary | Nails, Tanning & Make-Up | Salon Full Details, Terms of Business, Application Forms, Policy Wording and Explanatory Documents are available to view online at the website address

NA I L s g n i p Clip

CHLOE RANDALL uncovers the hottest nail topics & tales across the ‘net, TV & social media & gets the scoop on celebrity beauty must-haves

CELEB MANI SPOT!

Manicurist to the stars, Michelle Class, tended to the nails of TV presenter, Laura Whitmore, for Love Island: The Reunion. She topped off a nude shade with apt pink heart details and used Bio Sculpture Gel and Nails Luxe products, with Lucy Pastorelli Tools for prep.

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Traditional tattoo styles are no longer just for skin – they’re also now adorning nails! After nail artist, Coca Michelle, created some tattoo-inspired nail art for Megan Thee Stallion, the trend has taken off and our followers have been getting involved.

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According to Digital Journal , the global nailcare market is set to be valued at $27.15 billion by 2030, compared to a value of $13.11 billion in 2021.

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Foxy nails

Jennifer Lopez’s nail technician, Tom Bachik, manicured the actress and singer for the LVRxUnicef gala using the nude-greige Field Fox shade from CND™.

TV presenter, Maya Jama, took to Instagram Stories to share a snap of her glam team, which included nail stylist, Michelle Class, holding a Bio Sculpture nail file, alongside fellow manicurist, Debora Rodrigues.

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NOW TRENDING: The aura manicure

Instagram.com/ritaora

The trend of choosing a nail shade based on a person’s aura, or ‘energy field’, is proving popular. Auras show in different colours, with each shade holding a different meaning. For example, yellow alludes to a person being optimistic and upbeat. When it comes to aura nails, many clients are either choosing the colour they sense their aura to be or a hue from the aura colour chart to represent how they feel.

The stars aligned in this silvery design by Michelle Humphrey for singer, Dua Lipa, which she posted to her Instagram Story.

MANIS IN THE VILLA

After eight weeks of sun, romance and drama, ITV2’s Love Island 2022 saw contestants Ekin-Su and Davide crowned as winners. Ella Jarvis, a Bristol-based tech who is a part of The Gossip Nail Bar team, was flown to Mallorca to prepare the nails for the finalists. “The glam team had the entire day of the final to get the finalists ready and they moved from hair to make-up and nails,” Ella reveals. “Everyone involved in the show was really nice and we had a great day. The finalists were very excited.” Ella explained to Scratch that there wasn’t a set brief for the finalist’s nail looks, and instead they chose their designs based on what they were wearing for the final. Ekin-Su opted for a white and gold mani, created using The GelBottle Inc’s Au Naturel, Daisy and Vegas with white toes to match.

DID YOU KNOW?

Instagram.com/dualipa

There are currently over 940 ‘Regal Nails’ nail pitstops inside Walmart Stores in the United States. Each offers a wide range of nail services, and one of the brands used is CND™.

‘Barbiecore’ beauty has quickly become a big beauty trend, which has translated into some fun, themed nail designs. Searches for pink nails are up by 75% compared to 2021 according to Pinterest, and with a live-action Barbie movie scheduled to be released next year, the Barbiecore trend is only set to get bigger!

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The 10-minute Robot Mani

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BARBIE GIRL

A soft boomer-style ombré nail look was created for Tasha to match her pink dress, with The GelBottle Inc’s Marshmallow shade and Magpie Beauty’s Baby pigment.

Gemma opted for The GelBottle Inc’s Teddy BIAB with one coat of Au Naturel.

Six Target stores in the United States have introduced a ‘Clockwork Robot Manicure Machine’, which offers a nail service in under 10 minutes for less than $10.

NAIL SLUGGING Here at Scratch HQ, we love keeping up-to-date with the latest beauty trends on TikTok and this month, nail slugging is taking over our ‘For You’ page. Skincare expert, Dr Charles MD, posted a video that went viral on the platform that showed him ‘slugging’ (covering) his nails in petroleum jelly, with the claim that this daily action will help strengthen nails and prevent them from water damage. Since then, the trend has gone viral with many other nail fanatics taking to the app to show how they ‘slug’ their nails.

Indiyah sported a deep French style on a long, square nail shape, with silver line art to complement her sparkly dress.

Dami wanted a little Comme De Garçon style heart on his ring finger, so Ella used products from The GelBottle Inc and Brillbird to create the design.

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NAILDESIGNS

This hand-painted leaf design by @ayyas_beauty features pops of purple berries placed randomly across the nails.

Hungarian nail stylist, @glitterfingersss, makes her intricate blackberry design stand out over a dark base.

Maidenhead tech, @jodieatbeckis.beauty, uses seasonal shades from The GelBottle Inc to create this chic nail style.

Fingernails in CALLIE ILEY shares her pick of delectable berry-inspired nail designs; ideal for the autumn season

Focus

@kookynailsmk paints dainty berry branches on two feature nails and complements with a matte finish and touch of gold.

Autumnal tones of crimson red, nude and brown dominate this berry design by @beautique_kent.

An assortment of berries, from raspberries to blueberries and more, adorn the tips of these nails by @nailed.by.nika.

Beautiful shading on this blackberry feature nail by @poluektova_le is paired with an ombré fade and sparkle.

A deep berry tone applied by @thepeachnail looks stunning against handpainted flowers in this sophisticated look.

This elegant, glossy red mani by @lovethenailgarden is striking alongside a simple red and green berry design on the ring fingernails.

To be in with the chance of seeing your nail snaps on this page, share them with us on social media using #showscratch or email editorial@scratchmagazine.co.uk 106 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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